Mid-levels Oct 2017

FAMILY | FOOD | HOME | PUMPKINS | TRAVEL

Mid-levels magazine

October 2017

Hike-arumba!

Our top trails as the weather cools Enter o

Readerur Surveys’

to win B I prizGes

hours in

48Taipei

Where to go, what to eat

The bone collector

5 minutes with paleontologist Dr. Michael Pittman

Something wicked

Bits and bobs for Halloween

Hong Kong horoscopes

Adam White predicts your future

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Mid-levels magazine

The really useful magazine October 2017

32

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6 PEOPLE 4 Snapped!

Life around Mid-levels THE PLANNER 6 Happening in October Events for your diary THINGS WE’D BUY 12 Something wicked Props and decorations for Halloween NEWS 14 What’s going on?

In your back yard GIVEAWAYS 16 Free stuff Fab things to win

27 48 12 18 READERS’ SURVEY 17 Tell us about yourself Enter to win a staycation and other great prizes!

FIVE MINUTES WITH...

18 Michael Pittman HKU paleontologist LOCAL 20 Recycling woes Why Hong Kong is facing a backlog of waste COVER STORY 22 Hike-arumba!

Our top hikes in Hong Kong HOME & LIVING 30 The Hoo residence Marble and minimalism in Mid-Levels

DINING NEWS 34 Nibbles News from the dining scene TRAVEL 36 48 hours In Taipei Where to eat and what to do PICTURE THIS 40 Painting of the month A 1920s Fong Building HOROSCOPE 42 Signs from the stars Adam White tells you your future ZIM CITY 44 Paul Zimmerman on….

The Task Force on Land Supply BUILDING OF THE MONTH 48 Nam Koo Terrace Wan Chai’s haunted house

“TO FIND YOURSELF, THINK FOR YOURSELF” - SOCRATES

MID-LEVELS.CO | 1

contributors

Jai Rane s K on g a n d st u die g on H in p u w …g re e re at Ca m b ri dg En g lis h Lit erat u K . I n he r free ti m e U U nive rs ity in th e catchi n g u p wit h ol d g, in d a g ’s sh e lik es re enti n g Hon g K on u eq fr d n a s, d n frie d fo r eg g ta rt s a n m a ny ba ke ri es hi s m onth, Ja i rou n d s T pi n ea pp le bu ns. hi ke s (pa g e 22). t es b ’s u p th e city

Jennifer Lee ...stu di ed En glish an dP U nive rsity of Hon g Ko hilos op hy at th e ng m onth s at R utge rs U , in cl udin g four nive rsity, N ew Je rse y, wh ere sh e wo rk ed on stu Th e A nt ho log ist. Sh e de nt m ag azin e ha rbou rs drea m s of lea rn in g m ore la ng ua ge writi ng a book so m ed s an d pe rh ap s ay. H er fre e tim e is us ua lly spent watc hi ng m ov ie s an d te lev ision or lost in a good book.

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thisgirlabroa

e o pa ck ed h er lifg o h w t pa ex n ia ... is a Ca n a d t W hite N orth si x y ea rs a u p in th e G rea ty filled wit h sk y scra pe rs, dim to m ove to a ci ve n ’s. Bet wee n worki n g fu ll su m, a n d 7- Ele a g in g h er blog, y ou ’ ll lik elyd ti m e a n d m a na fl at w hite in on e h a n d a n o fi n d h er wit h butte r in th e ot h er— sh e a ls a ja r of pea n ut co ve r., a lo n g th e Y u en Ts u en a ppea rs on ou r is g irla b roa d.co m A n ci ent Tra il. th

Want to write for Mid-levels Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com

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MID-LEVELS.CO | 3

people Mid-levels snaps

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have your say “What is Mid-Levels best-kept secret?”

The restaurants. Here, all the cuisines combine. You can find Western cuisine and across the street, Eastern.

Especially on the rooftops.

- K.D.

I think it’s cool to walk around the edges of Mid-Levels, where you’ve got the food stalls and stuff like that.

- Tara

I love the diversity. Here, you can cross paths with people from twenty different countries.

And I love getting a workout going to Central every day.

- Phillip

The escalator is cool, the bars and the restaurants are nice, and ending the day with one of the many Happy Hours—it’s nice.

- Dan

I’d say the hidden bars, hidden restaurants and the hidden galleries.

- Charlie MID-LEVELS.CO | 5

planner

OCT 7

Clean Half

This extreme open water marathon swim starts at Stanley Main Beach and finishes at Deep Water Bay, where the after-party includes a barbecue and DJ at Deep Water Bay. This year sees a new race category: YakSwimmers (two swimmers, one kayak, 30-minute rotations the entire way). Main start time is 11am, though teams and solos who need more time start earlier. To register, visit openwaterasia.com

OCT 1 National Day

This group exhibition uses Carroll’s muchloved Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland as a basis to construct a narrative spanning 20 years in post-colonial Hong Kong. Blindspot Gallery, 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Road. blindspotgallery.com

A day commemorating the anniversary of the establishment of the People’s Republic of China. Catch the fireworks as they light up Victoria Harbour, starts at 9pm.

Image courtesy of Isaac Chong Wai and Blindspot Gallery

UNTIL NOV 10 Tale of the Wonderland

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OCTOBER 1-29 Halloween costume crafting Learn sewing techniques, make fantasy wear and turn everyday items into scary designs. No prior knowledge required. Wearing long pants, close-fitted shirts and closed-toe non-slip shoes on the day. 2:30-5:30pm on October 1,8,15,22 and 29. At MakerBay Central, PMQ Unit H-508. $480 per person per session.

Register at makerbay.org

Shrewsbury International School Open House

happening in October

OCT 3-26

Photo by HenryWBee via Wiki Commons

Shrewsbury International School will be holding open houses covering all year groups. 1-2pm on October 3 and October 5; 6-7pm on October 26. 7/F, Bangkok Bank Building, 28 Des Voeux Road Central. Find out more at shrewsbury.hk

A lantern display at Victoria Park for Mid-Autumn Festival

OCT 2 The day following National Day Public holiday!

OCT 3-6 Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance Festival

OCT 4 Mid-Autumn Festival

OCT 4 Pok Fu Lam Fire Dragon Dance

Held on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar, this festival stems from an ancient harvest ritual.

Take the chance to put your feet up—or enjoy the lanterns and mooncakes.

While not as well known as its counterpart in Tai Hang, this dragon dance is not to be missed.

See the fiery dragon dance its way through the village towards the sea. 7pm-11:30pm, Pok Fu Lam Village. Visit travelsouth.hk

OCT 5 The day following Chinese MidAutumn Festival Public holiday!

Hong Kong Tennis Open

Dating back to 1880, this dance is part of the Mid-Autumn Festival. For three nights and days, visitors can see the famous 67-metrelong ‘fire dragon’ as it winds its way through the streets of Tai Hang. 10:45–11:30pm on October 4 at Victoria Park. All other dates, around 8:15–10:30pm at Tai Hang. For more information visit aihangfiredragon.hk

OCT 7-15

Photo by Dilontai via Wikimedia Commons

The Hong Kong Tennis Open returns for the fourth year. Watch as world-class players descend on Hong Kong to battle it out for the grand prize of US$500,000.

The first three days of the tournament are free to the public on a first come, firstserved basis. Thereafter, tickets start at $160. Victoria Park Tennis Stadium, Causeway Bay. Buy tickets at cityline.com and Tom Lee outlets, or call 2111 5333

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planner OCT 8-29 Scare School HK by Glitter and Gore Scare School is a course of four workshops, created and led by professional Scare Actors from the UK. Each of the workshops will have a different focus, helping students create their own Haunted House walk through for friends and family to visit during the final workshop! 10am-12.30pm and 1.30-4pm on Sundays. Dramatic English Education Centre, Happy Valley. $2,500 per student. Email lizzi@ glitterandgore.hk with enquiries.

PAGEANT: The Musical

Helena May Charity Bazaar Over 50 stalls selling handmade crafts, jewellery, accessories and books, among other things, on the day. $10 admission. 9:30am-5:30pm, lunch from 11am-3pm.

The Helena May, 35 Garden Road, Central. Call 2522 6766 or visit helenamay.com

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Directed by Marek Steenkamp and presented by The Hong Kong Singers Limited, PAGEANT is an official Pink Season 2017 Calendar Event that mocks pageant shows by being one.

Judges selected from the audience have to choose which one of the show’s six contestants (all played by men) are worthy of the title of Miss Glamouresse. The hopefuls all compete in a grueling series of evening gown, swimwear, and talent rounds. Children under 10 not admitted.

8pm, McAuley Studio Theatre, HK Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, Wan Chai.

Tickets available through urbtix.hk

OCT 14 South Island Art Day A showcase of contemporary art, dance, and music by local and international artists, hosted by the South Island Cultural District,. There will be free food and drink, plus a Kids Corner to keep the tots busy. 12-8pm, Wong Chuk Hang, Tin Wan, and Aberdeen; free shuttle buses run between venues. sicd.com.hk

OCT 13-15 The Garden Gathering A three-day retreat into nature with classes offered from over 40 leading teachers and visionaries related to wellness, yoga, healing, ceremony, culture, wisdom, and earth knowledge on Cheung Chau. Sai Yuen Farm, Cheung Chau. Visit thegardengathering.com for more information.

OCT 11-12 The Roots of Flamenco Join Flamenco’s “Golden Couple” of Sonia Olla and Ismael Fernandez for two nights of performances. Olla and Fernandez worked with Madonna for her 2015-2016 album “Rebel Heart” - Sonia choreographed while samples of Ismael’s voice are featured in “La Isla Bonita.” 8pm, Sheung Wan Civic Centre. Buy tickets through urbtix.hk

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OCT 12

SUNDAYS FROM OCT 15 Container Port BBQ Boat Trip Join a tour on a boat trip that explores one of the largest and busiest container ports in the world. See ships loading, unloading, refueling, and being pushed by tugs. 11am-3:30pm. $900 per adult, $760 per child, including a sausage sizzle, salads and vegetables, carrot cake and beer, wine, soft drinks and water.

Book tickets at hongkongyachting.com

happening in October OCT 21 Harbour School Open House The Harbour School’s preparatory school, The Harbour Village, is holding an open house.

10am-12pm, 2/F, 23 Belcher’s Street, Kennedy Town. Sign up at theharbourschool.openapply. com/openday

OCT 21 HK Maternity + Baby Event

Michaelmas Fair

OCT 21

A fundraising event for local charities and St John’s Cathedral. There will be stalls and booths, selling bargain items, clothing, accessories, food and drink, as well as live performances and game booths. 10am-4pm, St John’s Cathedral, Central.

A chance for expectant and new parents to learn about maternity and babies with speakers, exhibitors and partners. Products and services also on offer. 9:30am–4:30pm, the JW Marriott.

Free admission when you register online at thehkmaternitybabyevent.eventbrite.hk

OCT 15-22 Lush Kids Party Pink Season teams up with LUSH to host a fun-filled afternoon of creativity for rainbow families. 3-5pm, 492 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay on October 15; and 3-5pm, 68 Sai Yeung Choi Street South, Mong Kok on October 22. Free registration. Register at eventbrite.hk

Under Our Shelter A curated look at Hong Kong’s history as a place of refuge using new, archived and privately held images, many of which have never been displayed in public. The Grand Opening Night runs from 6:30-9:30pm on October 19 at Loft 22, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong. Tickets available at ticketflap.com for $288 which includes entry and a catalogue of the highlight photos from the exhibition.

All other nights are free entry with a suggested donation of $100. The event will be moved to St Andrew’s Church, Tsim Sha Tsui between October 23-28. facebook.com/events/360831787682741

OCT 19-28

OCT 21-22 Wildlife of Russia: Mike Korostelev photography exhibition Dive with orcas, swim with seals, fish for salmon with brown bears and see the beauty of Russia through Mike Korostelev’s photography. Galerie Les Noms, 47 Sai Street, Sheung Wan, glesnoms.com

OCT 21-22 The Hebe Haven Yacht Club 24 Hour Charity Dinghy Race 2017 This annual race is the longest and only endurance aquathon in Hong Kong and south Asia. The event features a mini-village where families can unwind and watch the boats race through the two-day weekend. Race starts at 2pm, Hebe Haven Yacht Club, Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung. To register, visit hebehaven24hour.com

OCT 22 ESF 50th Anniversary Marathon In celebration of ESF’s 50th anniversary.

Race categories include 1km to 10km runs and a 1km family walk. There will also be a community carnival. Visit the carnival from 9:30am–4pm at Edinburgh Place, Central, and watch the races from 8am–10:30am at the Central harbourfront.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 9

planner Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival

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This festival brings world-class world-class food, drinks and entertainment to the Victoria Harbour skyline. Enjoy wine-pairing menus prepared by master chefs, tasting classes with industry experts, and wine and food booths spanning everything from single malts to artisanal cheese. Central Harbourfront Event Space, $30 admission. For opening times, visit discoverhongkong.com

There will also be beer, pizza and music as well as sand castle workshops and games for kids. The festival is free to enter as a spectator; if you’re playing, it’s a $680 entry fee for open teams (aged 18 or above), and $380 entry fee for junior teams (under 18).

10am-6pm, Repulse Bay Beach, facebook. com/hkbeachfest, register your team at openwaterasia.com

OCT 29 The Sedan Chair Charity Race Race with a sedan chair to raise money for charity. All funds will go to local small charities which run education, health or social welfare community programmes. The Matilda International Hospital, Mount Kellett Road.

Sign up at sedanchairace.org

OCT 24-31 Lan Kwai Fong Halloween Party

OCT 28-29 Hong Kong Beach Festival

Watch as Hong Kong’s premier party zone becomes the playground for massive street party, with costume and cosplay, featured drinks, Monster Mash competition, live performances and more throughout the week.

Lan Kwai Fong, Central. Get more details at lankwaifong.com

Sport lovers, parents and kids are invited to join or watch the fifth International Hong Kong Beach Water Polo Tournament. Even if you don’t play water polo, grab some friends and head to the beach for other tournaments and activities happening on the day, including dodgeball, volleyball, fitness and yoga.

OCT 29 Harbour Race 2017 Watch thousands of swimmers racing across the Victoria Harbour. From 8:30am, Tsim Sha Tsui Public Pier.

OCT 31 Halloween Boo! See page 12 for prop and costume ideas.

Working up a sweat in the Repulse Bay Triple, part of Hong Kong Beach Festival

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happening in October

BOOK NOW NOV 7 Melbourne Cup Charity Long Lunch To coincide with one of the most anticipated dates in horse racing, Farmer’s Market is teaming up with local charity Angels for Orphans to host a lunch at the Aberdeen Marina Club. Enjoy free-flow drinks, canapés, a three-course meal, followed by transport to The Butcher’s Club Secret Kitchen for an after-party.

Items in the charity auction include a week

at a luxury villa in Bali. Funds raised will go directly to Angels for Orphans to support their work with underprivileged children. 10am-2pm; 2:30-10pm for the after party. Early bird tickets cost $980 per person. Group tickets are also available at farmersmarket.com.hk

NOV 11 Hong Kong Rugby Union Charity Ball Enjoy a night of classic rock and raise funds for Po Leung Kuk’s education and rugby training programmes for the city’s underpriviliged children. $2,488 per person including a gourmet dinner, all-night drinks, and a concert by World Classic Rockers.

Black tie dress code.

HKCEC, Wan Chai.

Book at ticketflap.com/ hkrucharityball

NOV 18 Women’s Five November Run Women’s Five combines yoga and running to help ladies achieve their fitness goals.

Registration includes a five-week health and wellness program prior to the run and weekly training meetups. You can also register for the run only. Prices start at $390, with discounts for teams. Register at womensfive.com

DEC 9-17 Stanley Plaza Christmas Seaside Market For two weekends in early December, Stanley Plaza will be transformed into a Finnish Christmas market. Applications are open for food-and-beverage or retail vendors interested in renting stall space, with early bird prices for applications submitted by 5pm on September 4. All applications will close on October 9.

Visit hkmarkets.typeform.com/to/cAAiA3

Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 11

things we’d buy

Kids Skeleton Suspender $79.9 from H&M Stores across Hong Kong including Stanley, hm.com

Something wicked

Halloween Cupcakes $280 per dozen standard size/$200 per 2 dozen mini size from Complete Deelite completedeelite.com

Embrace the Halloween season with these tricks and treats.

By Catharina Cheung Superhero Dress $249 from H&M online hm.com

Halloween Candy Rocks Starting from $68 from papabubble 34 Tung Lo Wan Road, Causeway Bay papabubble.com.hk Happybeans $28 from Happy Lab Pop up store from October 27-29 at Stanley Plaza happylab.com.hk

Halloween Foam Mask (3-pack) $59.9 from H&M online hm.com

Goodie Beetle Dog Suit $248 from Doggie Goodie doggiegoodie.com

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Halloween Cookie Treat Bags $28 per bag of 8 from Complete Deelite completedeelite.com

hocus pocus Hanging Skeleton Decoration $78 from Eezy Peezy Parties Store in Ap Lei Chau (by appointment only) eezypeezyparties.com

Dominion Hex Bomb £7.99 from Bella Muerte ($84 shipping fee), available in various colours and scents bellamuerteclothing.com

Halloween Tic-Tac-Toe $160 from Swoon swoonxoxo.com Spooky floral dinner plate $45 from Swoon swoonxoxo.com

Pink Monster Horn £11.95 from Ohh Deer ohhdeer.com

Jack O’Lantern Piñata $180 from Party Time Four locations including Prince’s Building and Times Square, partytime.com.hk

Design your own bat wings and ears $249 from Seedling seedling.com.hk

Bloody Hand Latex Balloons $35 for 6 from Party Time Four locations including Prince’s Building and Times Square, partytime.com.hk

High Heel Ankle Boots with Gathered Detail $599 from Zara Stores across Hong Kong, zara.com/hk

MID-LEVELS.CO | 13

news

Proposal to cancel Central-To-Admiralty trams rejected

Court case over Central Police Station collapse begins

Photo by Exploringlife via Wikimedia Commons

A construction firm and two contractors have pleaded not guilty over the partial collapse of a building at the former Central Police Station Compound in May last year. A Buildings Department investigation found drilling had weakened part of the former Married Inspectors’ Quarters Building (PMQ) on Hollywood Road during reconstruction works, causing internal brick pillars and then a wall to collapse. Nobody was injured during the collapse. The first structures were built at the compound in 1864 and in 1995, the buildings there were designated as monuments. The contractors, Gammon Construction and Stonewest, and Gammon’s registered building contractor, Leung Chi-Hung, are accused of carrying out work highly likely to damage property. Gammon is also accused of deviating from an approved construction plan.

The case has been adjourned until November for a pre-trial review.

A proposal to remove trams from the districts of Central and Wan Chai was rejected during a meeting of the Town Planning Board on August 25. The plan to remove trams from sections of Wan Chai and Central was proposed by former town planner Sit Kwok-Keung as a way to alleviate traffic congestion.The proposal suggested slowly phasing out trams on Des

Voeux Road Central and Queensway to improve road efficiency, free up road space and avoid accidents in the busiest parts of Hong Kong— referring to an incident when a tram toppled over at the junction of Queensway and Des Voeux Road Central in April. The Town Planning Board rejected a similar proposal in 2015 after much public debate.

Flow Books reopens its doors Mid-levels bookstore Flow Books has reopened its doors. The second-hand bookstore was saved by $150,000 in donations from crowdfunding in May after its owner, Surdham Lam, made a public plea for help with rent. It found support from various corners, such as The University of Hong Kong’s HeforShe initiative, the Peel Street Poets and independent bookstore Bleak

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Street. The bookstore aims to reinvent itself as a social enterprise, offering subscription schemes lasting one month, six months and a year. It also adds to its collection over 1,000 books from the estate of the late Sir David Tang. Flow Books is located at Room 204 Lyndhurst Building, 29 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central.

Former chief secretary Sir David Ford dies The last colonial Chief Secretary, Sir David Ford, has died. Ford served as Chief Secretary of Hong Kong between 1986 and 1993, before being succeeded by Anson Chan Fang Onsang. Ford was born on February 22, 1935.

He joined the British Army when he was 20, where he had a 15-year career. He then spent more than two decades in Hong Kong, holding a number of appointments as a senior civil servant in the Hong Kong government. During his tenure between 1986 to 1993, he was known for pushing for the construction of the Chep Lap Kok Airport and contributing to the handover to China in 1997. After the handover, Ford left public service and relocated to Devon, where he focused on cattle farming, but he soon returned, taking up a post as a nonexecutive director at PCCW Limited in 2002.

in your backyard

Observation Wheel saved from demolition Sir David Tang dies The Observation Wheel on Central waterfront abruptly ceased operations on August 29. A sign announcing the closure was put up next to the popular tourist attraction, but provided no further details. In response, Swiss AEX Holdings offered refunds to customers who had purchased tickets to the ride prior to its closure through its website. The closure stemmed from expiry of the operator’s land lease contract.

Hong Kong’s Development Bureau leased the land to Swiss AEX Holdings in May 2013 to build and operate the attraction. A successful bid had been made for the short-term lease of the site last year, but the lease to the new operator, The Entertainment Corporation Limited, did not go into effect until September 1. It has emerged from public statements that Swiss AEX Holdings and The Entertainment Corporation Limited were locked in a dispute over payment, which led to the Wheel’s abrupt shutdown. After a brief period in which the future of the Wheel was in doubt, the two companies reached an agreement. This means the attraction will remain standing, although new management has not yet confirmed if and when operations will resume.

Businessman, socialite and philanthropist Sir David Tang died in London on August 30 at the age of 63. The grandson of one of Hong Kong’s most prominent philanthropists, Sir Tang Shiu Kin, he was born in Hong Kong, but educated in Britain, where he studied philosophy at King’s College and law at Cambridge University. In 1994, after working briefly at his grandfather’s solicitor firm and Swire Properties, Tang started his own ventures, founding the fashion brand Shanghai Tang and a string of clubs and restaurants. In 2008, Tang was knighted for his philanthropy work in both Britain and Hong Kong. Known for being extremely wellconnected, he counted the likes of Russell Crowe, Stephen Fry, Kate Moss and the late Princess Diana among his friends. Tang died at the Royal Marsden Hospital in Chelsea after a long battle with liver cancer, with his wife, Lucy, at his bedside. He is survived by two children, Edward and Victoria, from a previous marriage.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 15

win at hongkongliving.com

GIVEAWAYS

enter to win!

GRA PRIZ ND E!

FAMILY STAYCATION Summer holiday feeling like a distant memory?

We’re treating one family to a staycation at the Hyatt Regency Sha Tin, worth over $8,000.

Relax and enjoy a night’s stay in the twobedroom family suite, with a complimentary breakfast buffet and one activity for two children at Camp Hyatt.

With the heat finally wearing off it’s also a great time to get outdoors, so we’re throwing in an Ultraspire hydration vest—perfect for trail running and hiking—and a copy of The Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Hiking Guide.

Enter now to win all three prizes, worth a total of $10,000!

Clockenflap

Mothercare

M.int Academy

Hong Kong’s biggest music and arts festival is back for its 10th edition. This year’s star-studded lineup features Massive Attack, The Prodigy, MØ and many more to be announced.

We have three pairs of three-day weekend passes, valued at $1,940 each, to give away.

The leading British retailer of products for mothers-to-be, babies and children presents “Mothercare 1st Baby Expo”, a four-day convention from November 2-5 at KITEC, Kowloon Bay. Find great bargains, including $1 products and free gifts, from over 90 companies. For information, visit mothercare.com.hk We’re giving away one Snapkis Transformers 0-4 Car Seat, valued at $1,199. The first 60 entries will each get a pair of free tickets to the expo.

Recently co-founded by sisters Andrea and Philippa Wong, M.int Academy strives to provide personalised topquality classical music training and create an inclusive musical community.

We’re giving away five private classes valued at $4,600 to one lucky winner. Choose any instrument from the programme, or even mix and match classes. For more information, visit mintacademyhk.com

Click the Giveaways tab on our website: hongkongliving.com

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Hong Kong Living

Readers’ Survey 2017 We need YOU! Help us improve and continue being the most useful and trusted guide on Hong Kong living.

Entr deadli y ne: 8 Dec 2017

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Scan to enter or visit hongkongliving.com/readersurvey-2017

Pure Yoga & Pure Fitness $12,800 6-month contract

MID-LEVELS.CO | 17

five minutes with

Mid-levels Dr. Michael Pittman magazine

Publisher

Tom Hilditch tom@hongkongliving.com

Trisha Harjani speaks to the HKU paleontologist who discovered a new species of dinosaur

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief Shreena Patel shreena@hongkongliving.com Contributing Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongliving.com Editor Eric Ho eric@hongkongliving.com Editorial Assistant Catharina Cheung catharina@hongkongliving.com

Design

Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongliving.com

Digital

Digital Assistant Cora Chan cora@hongkongliving.com

Thanks to

Adam White Jai Rane Jennifer Lee Julia Poon Leanne Mirandilla Mehul Dhakka Paul Zimmerman thisgirlabroad Trisha Harjani

Published by

Hong Kong Living Ltd. Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Photo by thisgirlabroad

Pittman holding a skull cast of the dinosaur he discovered, the Linheraptor

I’m a Paleontology assistant professor at HKU. I grew up in Hong Kong; lived in Sai Kung with my parents and went to King George V School before going to London to study Geology at UCL. The wilder country side was one of my fondest memories of Sai Kung. Unfortunately, you have to go a bit further now for it to be perfectly quiet.

I always liked the outdoors. Once I realised that paleontology was something I could actually take seriously as a career, the rest was history. I completed my masters and doctorate in Paleontology before returning to Hong Kong.

HONG KONG hongkongliving.com

18 | MID-LEVELS.CO

As a kid I used to watch David Attenborough’s documentaries and dinosaurs were one facet of that. As I got older and appreciated what makes them

special and interesting, I wanted to do more.

I’ve developed a strong interest in understanding how dinosaurs evolved into birds The first dinosaur I discovered is called the Linheraptor. It was the first landmark paper for me that I published as a PhD student. It sounds a bit snobbish, but that’s basically what you do, discover new animals. The first time you do it, it’s great.

I’ve developed a strong interest in understanding how dinosaurs

evolved into birds. I mainly work on fossils but I spend a lot of time researching modern animals to try and learn from them about dinosaurs.

I actually made a discovery in Sai Kung a few years ago.

It turned out to be a little fish older than the oldest known from northeastern Mainland China.

The fossil is now in the Stephen Hui Geological Museum in HKU. We didn’t dig it up but found it in the geopark in Lai Chi Chung. We haven’t discovered any dinosaurs in Hong Kong yet but the rocks at Lai Chi Chong are the right age to find fossils.

We have strict laws in Hong Kong. If you want to dig up and take something out, you need a permit which makes it challenging to find fossils. The public can’t help because they’ll get in trouble.

the bone collector When I go to the Gobi Desert we have an area that is hundreds of times larger than the one we have in Hong Kong. In Hong Kong hardly one per cent of the area is searchable. So while there’s potential, it’s an odds game.

People don’t believe that I go to the desert. I don’t look like Bear Grylls, so people might not expect it. I have had friends jokingly question my visits. People are also surprised that I sing and write music.

The Gobi goes from one extreme to the other, in the winter it goes down to minus 50 degrees Celcius and in the summer plus 50.

The people who live there are some of the hardiest people on earth, but there aren’t many of them. Typically, it’s 40 degrees, dry heat and the sun’s very intense. I actually wear long sleeves, long trousers and a hat. It sounds crazy but the heat is so intense that you have to constantly reapply sunscreen if you have exposed skin.

I used to be in a blues band and I sing sometimes. Besides hiking and rock climbing, I like travelling to new places. I’ve been to around 50 countries but I try to see new things and get new experiences. It keeps me grounded.

Fieldwork can be hairy. Usually you can see a sandstorm from far away but it’s scary when you get caught in a rapid one or even a flash flood. The latter in particular can be very dangerous. I remember once it was drizzling a bit and we were in a desert where there were no trees, only rocks. As soon as it rained, the rocks went whooosh—that can be scary.

I’ve been on hikes in Sai Kung where it’s been more uncomfortable than in the desert.

Fossil fish poo has to be the strangest thing I have found. Within the poo you can see bits of other fish. It tells you about what the intestine looks like. A lot of fish poo are kind of like an ice cream cone.

I’ve also discovered other species including a one-fingered dinosaur and a feathered dinosaur we found recently. The latter had bird-like feathers and we were able to show that the feathers associated with flight originated before the first birds—it was amazing, it made us rethink how things happened.

Unfortunately there’s no Pittman-something.

I haven’t had a dinosaur named after me yet.

I need to be more famous. A lot of my senior colleagues have things named after them. If someone in the future named a cool raptor after me, that’d be cool but if it was a raptor that was a vegetarian or something I wouldn’t be very happy.

As a scientist you’re challenged all the time.

You come across stuff that no one has ever done. You can only bring two things; what you know and what your collaborators know.

When you’re working on a frontier, it’s super challenging and sometimes very frustrating.

Science is actually quite creative, it’s not just sitting around analysing data. You have to find connections and that involves creativity.

Paleontology is like treasure hunting, we cannot predict what we might find next.

There are still many things which still amaze me and that’s what keeps me going.

I think people should match up what they enjoy with what they’re good at. The really successful people tend to be driven by their passion.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 19

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Street collectors sell waste paper and cardboard to private recycling companies who in turn export it to mainland China

Jennifer Lee reports on why the city’s streets could soon be filled with waste paper

T

he failure of nearly 1,000 recycling plants—including paper manufacturers— across mainland China to obtain permits to import foreign waste has left Hong Kong with a mounting rubbish problem.

The sight of elderly street collectors pushing carts loaded down with paper or cardboard is familiar to many Hongkongers. The city accumulates almost 80,000 tons of waste cardboard and paper each month, most of which is sold to mainland China for processing due to Hong Kong’s lack of capacity for sorting.

But last month, approximately 1,000 recycling plants across mainland China failed to obtain permits from mainland authorities to import foreign waste for the current quarter, causing a backlog in Hong

The city accumulates almost 80,000 tonnes of wastecardboard and paper each month

Kong. The decision ties in with an announcement made by China’s State Council in July in which it said it plans to ban the import of 24 types of waste—including unsorted scrap paper—by the end of the year, as part of an attempt to reject ‘foreign garbage’.

The result for Hong Kong was an accumulation of waste paper in the city’s recycling companies, who would usually export it. Within days, many were complaining they had reached capacity, prompting industrial action. The Recycle Materials and Re-production Business General Association, which represents the city’s major recycling firms, stopped collecting waste paper, with the stated aim of alerting the Hong Kong and mainland authorities to the severity of the situation. Cardboard prices slumped and the boycott drew criticism from the chairman of the General Association of Recycling Business, a group that represents local frontline recyclers.

In response, as waste cardboard and old newspapers piled up in the streets, the

Photo by minghong via Wikimedia Commons

load of rubbish

South East New Territories Landfill

government mobilised community recycling centres, deployed additional manpower to refuse points and opened up temporary storage space at places like the Tuen Mun EcoPark to alleviate some of the pressure. Environmental group Green Earth urged Hong Kong residents and companies to use less paper.

Exporters met with the government on September 17 and ended the strike after three days, saying they had made their point and apologising for the impact on affected collection and cleaning workers. Following the meeting, the government said it would step up Hong Kong’s own recycling efforts and that it had been liaising with the Chinese government. “We have

been maintaining close contact with the relevant authorities in the mainland,” a spokeswoman from the Environment Protection Bureau said, “with a view to helping the recycling industry rise to improve business to rise to the challenges brought by the Mainland’s tightened control over importing recyclables.”

In the long-run, Hong Kong will have to think about how to develop its green industries and raise the value of its exported recyclables so that they meet mainland regulations. As for the possibility of sending the waste paper elsewhere, many recycling companies say it is unviable, citing higher costs and the limited capacity of Southeast Asian countries and Hong Kong’s

already choked landfills to absorb it.

These events came on the heels of a study looking into the contents of Hong Kong’s recycling bins, which found that they were being largely misused. According to the study by Greeners Action, which surveyed 23 four-inone recycling bins over two days, less than 40 per cent of the rubbish found in the bins was recyclable. 17.5 per cent was recyclable material that had been placed in the wrong category, 16.2 per cent was regular trash, and 27.6 per cent was too dirty or contaminated to be recycled.

The waste paper section was the most misused, with 40 per cent of contents made up of general waste. Because of this, the group found that the contents of recycling bins were more likely to end up in a landfill than a recycling plant.

Recycling bins along the roadside appeared to be more susceptible to incorrect usage.

In response to the study, a spokeswoman from the Environmental Protection Bureau said that a steering group had been established to study the distribution of public space recycling and refuse collection facilities. “The government will work with all sectors to promote ‘clean recycling’ and guide the public on proper waste recycling...to avoid contamination and reduce the cost of further recycling by recyclers,” she said. M

MID-LEVELS.CO | 21

cover story

Hike-arumba!

Get into hiking season­­with a few of our favourite trails.

T

he hiking season is upon us. The cooler weather over the next few months makes this the best time to get out and enjoy Hong Kong’s vast array of hiking routes. Our selection is by no means exhaustive but whether you’re looking for an easy hike for visitors or a challenging thighburner of a climb, we’ve got you covered. Plus expert tips.

finish with a slap-up meal

p Install the ‘Enjoy Hiking’ Ap ble for Designed by the AFCD, this app is availa its Hiker and hone WinP and id, Andro iPhone, iPad, ly feed Tracking Service function can automatical . This your tracking location to its service centre tions in data can be retrieved to aid rescue opera emergencies.

Twin Peaks and Violet Hill

This workout packs a serious punch. It’s also known as the Terrible Twins for its seemingly never-ending series of steps (over 1,000, actually). This 4.8km trek from Wong Nai Chung Gap (Parkview) to Stanley is classified as “very difficult” by the AFCD and gives any stair-climber at the gym a run for its money. It take two to three hours of hard work, but those who accept the challenge are rewarded with a great workout and incredible views of the outlying islands. We strongly advise doing the hike this way round (Parkview to Stanley) as when you’re halfway up the first peak, thinking you should have gone for brunch instead, visions of Stanley’s food, drink and gentle ocean breeze will keep you going. The first peak is much harder than the second, and the hike starts with an ascent up Violet Hill—barely a warmup for what’s to come.

22 | MID-LEVELS.CO

Buses 6 and 66 (from Exchange Square) both go up to Parkview (at Tai Tam Reservoir Road bus stop). Most taxi drivers are familiar with the start of the hike, signposted by a trail map and a set of stairs leading into the

woods adjacent to Parkview. Follow them up.

The trail finishes on Stanley Gap Road at the Wilson Trail bus stop where you can catch a bus or taxi into Stanley.

Spectacular views of Shek O mansions, beaches, and the South China Sea without a punishing climb.

Named after its hilltop undulations, Dragon’s Back is ideal for visitors—you can do it in the morning or afternoon. Busy on weekends, this section of the Hong Kong Trail is also popular with paragliders and owners of model aircraft.

The walk can drag on a little towards the end but the finishing point at Big Wave Bay (Tai Long Wan) will make it all worth it so look out for the turning and don’t forget your swimsuit. There are a few cafes here, but for a larger meal head to Shek O, a few minutes down the road in a taxi—you can catch a cab in the car park. It’s possible to walk there but we wouldn’t advise it: there’s no pavement and vehicles travel fast along this stretch of road. take a visitor

or Contact 999 or 112 in an emergency, your local police station: 3661 1630 (Sai Kung), 3661 1694 (Lantau North), 3661 1696 (Lantau South), 3661 1674 (Tai Po)

Photo by Hong Kong Tourism Board

Dragon's Back

king of the hill

If you’re in trouble...

Get a taxi or, from Exit A3 at Shau Kei Wan MTR station, take bus 9 to To Tei Wan on Shek O Road. The hike starts up the stairs as soon as you get off the bus.

Foaming waves crash against thigh-burner rugged cliffs on Hong Kong’s southernmost island, a criss-cross of hiking trails over granite hills with unmatched views over the South China Sea. Here, you’ll find Ming Kee restaurant, situated beachside on a huge wooden deck and widely known to serve the best black pepper squid in Hong Kong. The seafood is fresh and the excellent meals are good value although prices rise considerably if you order a la carte, and there’s a good selection of wines and beers. Thirty years ago, Po Toi was home to about a thousand people, most of

whom lived around the main cove. Drawn by the booming city, all but a handful have since left.

From Po Toi Public Pier, turn right for a one-hour stroll to the southern headland.

Ming Kee is open daily and busy at weekends, so book in advance (11.30am-10pm, 2849 7038). Tsui Wah Ferries (2272 2022) operates services to Po Toi from Aberdeen on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays and from Stanley Blake Pier on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays ($40 return).

Take 37B or 70 to Aberdeen, 6, 6X, 260 or 66 to Stanley. See traway.com.hk for timetables.

Mountain climbers Races and team hiking challenges starting this month.

OCT 1: Lantau 2 Peaks Race If you like hills you will love this. Both Sunset and Lantau Peak are scaled over a tough 23km cours —there is also a 15km option. Entry fees are $350 for individuals, $700 for teams of 2, and $1,400 for teams of 4. actionasiaevents.com

OCT 13: Moontrekker A 43km ‘sunrise’ course and 30km ‘moonlit’ course. Both races begin on Mui Wo, Lantau Island at 8:30pm and 11pm respectively. barclaysmoontrekker.com

OCT 21: MSIG HK50 series - The Peak to Wong Nai Chung Gap Photo by Geographer at English Wikipedia

Po Toi Island

This 24km course is a great introduction to the MSIG HK50 series with short steep climbs in the second half up Mount Parker, Mount Butler, Jardines Lookout and Violet Hill. actionasiaevents.com

NOV 25: Hysan Island Hike & Run 19km and 12km races for solo runners, a 27km race for teams of 2, and a 3km Waterfront Fun Walk great for kids. All courses start from Deep Water Bay. actionasiaevents.com

MID-LEVELS.CO | 23

cover story

ng SMS Hiker Tracki ers along

Lamma Known for its seafood, laidback lifestyle and friendly community, Lamma Island is just 30 minutes and a world away from Aberdeen. There are separate ferry services from Aberdeen to both of the main villages on the island: Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan. Yung Shue Wan, in the northwest, is the main “town”, with alleyways bursting with trinket shops, restaurants, bars and organic shops.

It’s a short walk to two beaches: Power Station Beach, home to the island’s Full Moon Parties— and the busier Hung Shing Yeh Beach, with lifeguards. take it easy

Alternatively, embark on a 45-minute walk over the hill to Sok Kwu Wan on the east coast, famous for its strip of seafood restaurants.

Rainbow Seafood Restaurant runs at Fisherman’s Village tourist experience on fishing rafts out in the bay for a fun diversion. After lunch, take the easy 15-minute trail to pretty Lo Shing Beach on the west coast.

More serious hikers might consider tackling Mount Stenhouse, Lamma’s highest peak at 353 metres.

Catch a ferry from Central to Sok Kwu Wan (ferry.com.hk) or Yung Shue Wan (td.gov.hk).

For details of events, visit lamma.com.hk.

Rainbow Seafood Restaurant, 2982 8100.

Text the distance post numb the trail (e.g. ‘M001’) to 50222 as you pass them. Only include the distance post number. If you are reported

Get the gear Where to get your headlamps, camel packs, sunglasses, backpacks and more…

Asia Pacific Adventure, Wong Chuk Hang Shop online or in store. Unit B, 16/F, Gee Chang Hong Centre, 65 Wong Chuk Hang Road, 27927128. Open Monday to Friday, 11am-8pm, and 11am-6pm on weekends. asiapacificadventure.com

Photo by Kevin Tse

Escapade Sports Shop online or in store. 1/F, Merlin Building, 30-34 Cochrane Street, Central, 2851 0769. Open Monday to Thursday 10.30am-8pm, and Friday to Sunday 10am-8pm. escapade.com.hk

Pat Sin Leng Deep in the New Territories lies Pat Sin Leng (“the Eight Fairies”), a range of eight peaks set amidst emerald lakes. Each peak is named after one of the eight fairies in Chinese mythology. The highest peak is Shun Yeung Fung (591m), whose summit offers a panorama of the Northeastern landscape. Experienced hikers may enjoy Stage one for the explorers

24 | MID-LEVELS.CO

9 and Stage 10 of the Wilson Trail, which take you along the ridges of Wong Leng, Lai Pek Shan and Pat Sin Leng. The trail is difficult in terms of elevation and distance, but you’ll enjoy spectacular views of rolling green hills against the backdrop of Plover Cove Reservoir. On a clear day, you can see Shenzhen in the distance.

For something less strenuous, try the 4.4km (2.5 hours) trail from Tai Mei Tuk to Bride’s Pool.

Numbered signboards (from 1 to 22) will help

The Overlander: Base Camp @Mongkok 12/F, Hollywood Plaza, 610 Nathan Rd., 2117 1810. Open Monday to Saturday 11am-9pm, and 11am-9pm on Sunday and public holidays. overlander.com.hk Marathon Sports Stocks a range of international sports brands. 233 Chai Wan Rd. Open Monday to Sunday, 11.30am-9.30pm. imarathon.com

you to navigate and the two waterfalls at Bride’s Pool are a great way to end the walk—although the route can get busy at weekends.

Take the MTR to Tai Po Market MTR Station.

Section 9 starts on the summit of Cloudy Hill—to get there, take a taxi from the station to Tai Po Tau Drive and walk. Alternatively, to get to Tai Mei Tuk, catch the green minibus 20C from the station.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 25

Hiking Statistics in 2016,

357 mountain rescues double the number in 2005 4 hiking-related deaths in 2016 and 5 in the first four months of 2017

stay on the island

Tai Tam Country Park

Tai Tam Country Park occupies one fifth of Hong Kong Island’s land area.

Both the Hong Kong Trail (Stages 5 & 6) and the Wilson Trail (stages 1 & 2) cut through the park, which contains four reservoirs as well as a variety of war remnants —Tai Tam was a battleground during World War II. During the war, most of its vegetation was severely

Shing Mun ReDoubt The Gin Drinkers Line was a 13historical hike mile “Oriental Maginot Line” of pillboxes, lookout positions and artillery observation posts that snaked through difficult terrain north of Kowloon. The lynch pin was the Shing Mun Redoubt, which comprises an intricate tunnel network lining pillboxes, bunkers, a Command Post and artillery. The tunnels are named after famous London streets, such as Shaftesbury Avenue, Piccadilly and Charing Cross.

damaged, but systemic reforestation has paid off, and today the park is full of life. Stage 5 of the Hong Kong Trail takes you to the summit of Jardine’s Lookout, from where you can enjoy a 180-degree panorama of Victoria Harbour.

You’ll also see the ruins of a bungalow, once the residence the James Matheson, the original Scottish founder of Jardine Matheson & Co. Ltd. Follow the trail eastward to ascend a second peak: Mount Butler. Stage 5 ends with a series of 599 steps down to Quarry Gap, where you’ll find a picnic and barbeque area and toilets.

Stop for a quick rest before heading on to Stage 6—an easier downhill walk towards Tai Tam Intermediate Reservoir, followed by a short unpaved hike towards Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir. Eventually, you’ll arrive at Tai Tam Road, from where you can catch a bus or taxi to Stanley, or continue on to Stage 7.

The bullet-scarred remnants of these fortifications being reclaimed by the forest are all that remain of a battle that was over almost before it started.

You’ll soon become aware of a modern invader —hordes of rhesus macaques. The walk to the Shing Mun Redoubt is an easy 4.6km (90 minutes). Follow the signs for the MacLehose Trail (not the Wilson Trail).

If you’re doing a return trip, follow the “m” signs one way, and “W” the other. This stage finishes at Shing Mun Reservoir, where you can picnic. To leave, head to the west of the reservoir and connect with Shing Mun Road to catch a cab.

To get there, take a taxi (there are car parks if you plan a round trip) to the start of Stage 6 of the MacLehose Trail on Tai Po Road, and stroll alongside the Kowloon Reservoirs.

You can also take bus 86M from Tai Wo Hau Station to Fung Yam House On Yam Estate and walk 35 minutes to the start of the trail.

To get to the starting point of Stage 5 of the Hong Kong Trail at Wong Nai Chung Gap, take CityBus No. 6 or 66.

Sai Kung Hiking Guide To celebrate our love for Sai Kung and Clearwater Bay, we’ve created the most comprehensive local hiking guide - The Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Hiking Guide. We walked hundreds of kilometres spanning every trail in the area to bring you the best 12 hikes of Sai Kung. From pushchairfriendly walks to more challenging trails over mountainous terrain our guide has it all.

Order your copy at hongkongliving.com/shop with the promo code DISCOUNT10 to enjoy 10% off your purchase. Limited time only.

26 | MID-LEVELS.CO

Photo by Peter Milton

cover story

king of the hill

Long Ke Wan is popular with junk boats on the weekends.

stay on the island

Pak Tam Chung to Long Ke Wan

Also known as Section 1 of the MacLehose trail, the route begins at Pak Tam Chung and continues along Sai Kung Man Yee Road, skirting the south side of High Island Reservoir in Sai Kung East Country Park. Built in the late 1970s, following severe water shortages in the previous decade, the reservoir was created by damming the two ends of a narrow sea channel between High Island and the mainland, submerging half a dozen villages in the process and requiring

In conversation with...Dr. David Gething Winner of 7 Marathons 7 Continents in 7 Days Challenge, Marathon World Record Holder, and local vet.

What are you favourite trails?

Being a Clear Water Bay native, I like trails in that area. One of my favourites is High Junk Peak, behind where we live. It’s a hard trail to run because there’s 10m of flat trail and the rest of it is all climbing up and down stairs but it is beautiful. You’ve also got to love and hate MacLehose in so far as its wonderful but backbreaking at times. Maclehose Stage 2 is another of my favourites, especially going around Tai Long Wan. Are there any great hikes for dogs?

Most of the trails are great for dogs, especially

four hundred Hakka villagers to relocate. The reservoir holds over 270 million cubic metres of water—40 times the capacity of Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir.

At just under 11 km, Section 1 takes around three hours. The beginning of the trail is mostly flat and the few climbs are gradual. Walk across the two dams and make the short climb over to lovely Long Ke Wan beach for a swim. Notice the unusual hexagonal rock formations nearby, formed of rhyolite, a fine grained volcanic rock formed when lava cools rapidly.

Section Two goes through the north half of Sai Kung East Country Park, to its border

along the Pak Tam Road. From Long Ke, make the steep ascent to Sai Wan Shan. Enjoy fantastic views over the coastline and north towards Sharp Peak. The trail drops down to Sai Wan, then follows the beaches to Ham Tin, turning inland over the coastal hills. It ends at Pak Tam Au.

Dragon’s Back. MacLehose is good for a bit but it’s very long and you can’t take a dog on a 50km hike easily. The good thing about High Junk Peak is that it’s only 5km long so it’s quite easy for dogs.

friends for some good running and to really push it; others are more mellow for the kids. Both are rewarding in different ways. I think hiking is a great way to connect to people. I went out this morning for a trail run and if I knew a friend wasn’t waiting for me to see him I would probably have slept in, but I knew he was there so I went.

What do people need to remember when taking dogs for hikes?

I see people all the time hiking with their dogs and not bringing enough water for the dog, who ends up getting heat stroke. Remember to prepare for your dog as well. Also, take a leash.

Dogs don’t have to be on a leash in country parks if they are not aggressive or very big, but you should take one in case your dog acts out, to be respectful of other hikers.

Where do you find motivation?

In the company of friends. I take my buddies.

I take my children. I have many different kinds of hikes—some are intense, I do them with

Section 1 starts at Pak Tam Chung. Take bus 94 or 96R (or minibus 7 or 9) from Sai Kung Town and get off at the Pak Tam Chung Terminus, next to the Pak Tam Chung Barrier Gate. The starting point is by the junction of Pak Tam Road and Man Yee Road.

What is Hong Kong’s best kept hiking secret?

I think the secret that everybody knows but nobody acknowledges is that Hong Kong is an amazing place for hiking. Friends coming in from out of town think Hong Kong is just skyscrapers and traffic. But percentage wise we have more natural parks here than most countries in the world. I take friends out to a hike and they are stunned to see how rugged and beautiful it is.

The beauty of hiking is that you don’t need an expensive bike to do it, you don’t need a permit, you can just go out there and and it’s open to everybody.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 27

cover story

Lion Rock At 495 metres, Lion Rock in north Kowloon is far from Hong Kong’s tallest mountain (it’s actually the 52nd highest) but it does have great views and lots of monkeys.

It’s part of Stage 5 of the MacLehose trail.

The first (relatively easy) section of the trail takes you along the Gin Drinker’s Line, where Commonwealth troops defended Hong Kong against the Japanese in World War II. The ascent up Lion Rock is more challenging and very steep in parts. Once at the top, look north to see the New Territories and south for views of the Kowloon Peninsula and Victoria Harbour.

On a clear day you can see as far as Hong Kong Island. Other famous sites along the hike include Amah Rock and Beacon Hill. Watch out for the wild fauna including the Black-eared Kite and Long-tailed ‘crab-eating’ Macaque. We wouldn’t go too close though: the latter is notorious for snatching bags for food. monkeys!

Start at Wong Tai Sin MTR station and head up Sha Tin Pass Road until you reach the start of the trail. The most popular route (3-4 hours) comes full circle and finishes back at the station.

A gentle trail for little feet, this one-kilometre (1 hour) hike kicks off near Bradbury Jockey Club Youth Hostel, right next to Plover Cove. The walk is marked by twelve columns corresponding to the animals of the zodiac, a perfect way to get little ones excited for Chinese New Year—although it’s still a while away. The route passes four viewing points each providing scenic views across Plover Cove reservoir towards Yim Tin Tsai, and Ma On Shan. Cool off at Tai Po Waterfront Park afterwards or head to Tai Mei Tuk barbeque site for a well-earned meal.

To get there take 75K, 275R, or 20C from Tai Po Market MTR Station to Tai Mei Tuk bus terminus then walk up Tai Mei Tuk Road to Bradbury Camp. The trail starts to the left of the hostel. To leave, walk back to the bus terminus; 75K and 275R both go to Tai Po Waterfront Park.

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Photo byy Geographer [GFDL via Wikimedia Commons

family walk

Tai Mei Tuk Family Walk

king of the hill Fitness tips...from Ally van de Pol of Dragon Fitness and Coaching

8

Prepare! Take tons of water—a lot more than you think you need.

If you plan to hike for over an hour and it’s hot add some electrolyte to prevent cramping and give you a little sugar boost. For snacks, I really like dried mango, nuts or trail mix. Also take a fully charged phone, a map (maybe on your phone), trail shoes with good grip and a torch.

7

Take a buddy Especially if you haven’t hiked that particular trail before. There are a number of trails in Hong Kong I happily would run on my own but it can be risky.

escape the crowds

6

Choose a trail that’s within your fitness capability. Do your research—ask friends. There is no shame in turning back if you think a trail is too tough.

3

5

2

Strengthen your legs. Start with bodyweight forward lunges and do three sets of 10-16 reps, alternating legs.

Later, you can use dumbbells, a barbell or just by doing the lunges very slowly or for more reps. Also try doing walking lunges outside, up- or downhill.

4

Develop your core stability to avoid losing your balance on trails. The Pallof Press is my favourite core exercise for this. You can do it at home with a band or on a cable machine at the gym. Simply secure the band around a pole around chest height, bend your knees slightly and brace your core, stand side on to the pole and push the band out in front of you (the band will want to pull you towards the pole, but continue to face forward).

If you have achey legs after hikes try alternating hot and cold blasts on your muscles in the shower for 10 minutes; this works better the sooner you do it after your hike.

Perform mobility drills to warm up. No static stretches, you want to get the muscles warm and the nervous system firing; think jumping jacks, mountain climbers, walking lunges etc.

Stretch straight after you finish the hike, focusing on hamstrings, calves, quads and hips.

1

Enjoy it! If you aren’t, stop and look around you, there’s bound to be a glorious view. Remember why you’re there; it could be to win, to get a better time, to think, or to make the most of a sunny day. Whatever your motivation, hiking in Hong Kong is one of the best (and cheapest!) ways to spend an afternoon.

Ng Tung Chai waterfalls

A stone’s throw from the high rises of Tai Po, the Ng Tung Chai waterfalls are one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets. Climb into a steep-sided world enveloped in dense rainforest and peppered with flowing cascades. Despite the area’s accessibility, it offers an escape from the crowds at weekends. During the week, you’re likely to have this tropical wonderland all to yourself. Allow four to five hours for the moderately strenuous 6km walk to the three main falls, including swimming time.

Catch a taxi or bus 64K from Tai Wo MTR Station (Exit A) to Ng Tung Chai village then follow the road uphill to the trailhead. Pass by Man Tak Monastery and head up the northern slopes of Tai Mo Shan —Hong Kong’s highest peak. Take a dip at each of the waterfalls and rest easy knowing it’s only a 45-minute walk from the Bottoms Falls to Lam Kam Road to grab a bus.

Useful websites

1 hikehongkong.blogspot.hk A blog detailing the hiking adventures of Hong Kong resident Jean-Christophe Clement.

2 hiking.gov.hk/eng Good for detailed trail descriptions and directions -there and back.

3 wildhongkong.com For hiking, cycling and kayaking tours.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 29

home & living

Contemporary comfort This transformation of a couple’s new home into a modern-classic nest was not without its challenges, as Leanne Mirandilla discovers

T

he practice of interior design is rife with challenges, whether navigating an uninspiring flat layout or working with an indecisive client. When YC Chen—founder and creative director of interior design studio hoo—designed this 1,400sq.ft., three-bedroom home, he was presented with the challenge of allowing the furniture to lead his design, rather than the other way around. The couple had already acquired some much beloved furniture from brands such as BoConcept. Eight months later, the result was an airy, sophisticated space that’s flooded with light.

Step into the home and you’re greeted immediately by the open-plan dining room and kitchen. Further on lies a cosy living room where a plush, muted grey sofa invites you to kick your feet up and take in the splendid view via the full wall of windows. The other side of the home is where you’ll find the master bedroom and ensuite bathroom, lined with marble and done up in monochrome hues for a quiet, spa-like experience. The homeowners spend plenty of time here, Chen explains, and so a comfortable, relaxing vibe was key.

“The wife originally wanted a rustic, American home,” says Chen, “but I suggested that they keep it modern, as I find that a

30 | MID-LEVELS.CO

I find that a countryAmerican style is too heavy for Hong Kong

country-American style is too heavy for Hong Kong. However, we kept some classic touches,

such as the materials and wall and ceiling mouldings.” Plenty of white marble fills the space, imbuing it with an elegant air but also contributing to the clean, minimal aesthetic.

The homeowners also wanted to create more space—particularly in the master bedroom—and storage.

Tackling the master bedroom, Chen arranged it in a way to maximise space and take advantage of the flat’s stunning Victoria Harbour view. “Normally, you would put the bed against the wall, but we left it afloat in

MID-LEVELS.CO | 31

home & living

Chen turned to statement lighting pieces by the likes of Louis Poulsen and Moooi

the middle with a marble partition for more storage on both sides,” he says. One wall is lined with sleek, unobtrusive wooden cabinetry, while one corner is a dedicated study area. A

set of drawers sits behind the bed’s marble headboard-slash-partition, while two side tables on either side of the bed provide even more storage. The positioning of the bed also allowed the couple to wake up to the outside view every morning, since the flat is perched on a higher floor of the building. “That was the most important part of the project.”

Chen combined the two remaining bedrooms and opened up the kitchen to grant it more ambient light that filters through to the living and dining areas.

For the colour palette, Chen and his clients went for a simple, neutral look that complemented the minimalist-chic, Scandinavian-inspired furnishings. Rather than going with a light wood floor, however, Chen urged his clients to consider a darker shade. “The flooring is a darker tone, close to an espresso colour, to give the home a more mature feel,” Chen says. “Many people

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have concerns over dark flooring, but it’s actually okay if the space is bright enough.”

For accents and personality, Chen turned to statement lighting pieces by the likes of Louis Poulsen and Moooi—just look at the sculptural light above the dining table that’s not unlike a flowering tree branch, or the subtle yet sophisticated wall lamps behind the sofa in the living area. The home was rounded out with a spare room to be used for storage at the time of design, but intended to be a future nursery for when the couple’s family expands.

“We tailor-make designs for each client,” says Chen, “which is a challenge, as we don’t want to repeat aesthetics, but we still want people to know it’s our style.” Indeed, this project brings together hoo’s attention to detail and the clients’ personalities for an abode that is bound to serve as a comfortable yet stylish family home for many years to come. M

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eating

Dining news

What not to miss this month

Top chefs unite to #CookForSyria Eight of Hong Kong’s top chefs are uniting to support UNICEF’s work for children in Syria, by creating an eight-course Syrian inspired feast.

The chefs include Nathan Green from Rhoda, Nicholas Chew from Serge et le Phoque, Peggy Chan from Grassroots Pantry, Agustin Balbi from Haku, and more. There will also be free flow drinks, a charity auction, and a raffle.

Hosted at Beef & Liberty, tickets to the charity banquet on October 26 are priced at $1,200 per head. Proceeds will go to the Hong Kong Committee for UNICEF to aid children affected by the humanitarian crisis in Syria.

Search ‘#cookforsyria’ on eventbrite.hk to book tickets, or visit cookforsyria.com

New items at Panino Giusto Panini specialist Panino Giusto has expanded its menu. New additions include freshly pressed juices, soups and salads, and Toast Farcito ($108)—an Italian interpretation of the toasted sandwich.

We think the paninis are still the best thing on the menu, but if you fancy a salad we recommend the new Imperiale ($128, with grilled chicken breast and bacon). Our favourites? The Tartufo panini ($108, Parma ham, Brie, tomato, rocket, Alba truffle oil) and the Tiramisu ($78, made fresh daily).

Paninis start from $88. Meat and veggie options available. Panino Giusto offers an all-day happy hour (buy one get one free) on all alcoholic drinks, but only at the Lee Garden location.

Shop 3077, Podium Level Three, IFC Mall, Central (2564 7000) and Shop 204, 2/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay (2527 0222), paninogiusto.com.hk

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Diwali treats at Jashan

Buy one get one free at Cafe Deco

Long-standing Mid-Levels restaurant Jashan has launched a selection of sweets with which to celebrate Diwali—the festival of light—and the beginning of the Hindu New Year. Spanning five days between October and December, Diwali or Deepavali is one of the most important festivals on the Hindu calendar.

In addition to using traditional ingredients such as almonds, cashew nuts, figs, pistachios and coconut, Jashan’s varieties also include raisins, chocolate chips and marzipan.

The Diwali sweets, or mithai, come in four different packages. Prices range from $200 to $350.

To place an order, phone 9201 4775 or email terry@uhg.hk with at least four days advance notice. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, jashan.com.hk

Cafe Deco Group presents a range of BOGOF promotions for main courses, set lunches and drinks in different areas of the city.

The participating outlets include all branches of Beerliner German Bar & Restaurant, Cafe Deco, Peak Cafe Bar, Pickled Pelican, Cafe Deco Pizzeria, FAUCHON Paris Le Café, The Boathouse, and all branches of Stormies. Each of these chains has its own exclusive dishes in the offer. For instance, Cafe Deco Pizzeria (Sheung Wan) is offering choices such as Char Siu Pizza, Japanese Miso Cod Pizza, and Char-grilled U.S. Prime Ribeye for free with the purchase of another main course.

Venues across Hong Kong. For full details, visit cafedecogroup.com

Lawry’s celebrates anniversary with set dinner In honour of its 11th anniversary in Hong Kong, Lawry’s The Prime Rib has created a set dinner, complete with six specialty cocktails and sauces inspired by six of its international locations.

The 852 has inspired the Black Pepper sauce, Japan the Wasabi Soy Sauce, Korea the Red Chilli Sauce, Singapore the Singapore-style Curry, and Taiwan the Sesame Soy Sauce. Aside from these, the traditional Lawry’s Beef au jus is also available.

Prices for the anniversary set dinner start at $688 for entrée with either starter or dessert, or all three courses for $738. For reservations, ring 2907 2218, or visit lawrys.com.hk for more details.

Shop 201, 2/F Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Road, Central.

Pirata Group to open new restaurant in Soho New restaurant MEATS is to open its doors in Soho in mid-October. Defining itself as a “meat bar”, it claims to be no reservations, no service charge, no fuss—just a straightforward menu of meat-based sharing dishes.

Both traditional and unconventional cuts of meat will be cooked using a variety of techniques such as house-smoking, rotisserie and grilling (on a custom made Robata grill).

We have been told to look out for the rustic porchetta, homemade sausages, chef’s choice meat board of the day and a range of meats marinated with unusual flavours—from jalapeños to coffee.

MEATS will open its doors on Staunton Street in mid-October, and is looking to bring out a brunch menu in November. Watch this space.

Visit piratameats.hk for more details.

28-30 Staunton Street, Soho, Central. M

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travel

48 hours in Taipei Shreena Patel heads on a city break to Taiwan’s capital

Did you know?

A

A temple in Jiufen

fter two years of checking Cathay Pacific fanfares at 8am every Tuesday morning, in August I finally pulled the trigger on a weekend trip

to Taipei.

Colleagues and friends who have lived there or visited were quick to fill up my 48 hours with helpful recommendations of what to do, where to stay and—most importantly—where to eat.

And so, with my carry-on packed and my expectations high, I took off just before 6pm to reach Taipei in time for a late dinner.

A history Taipei is located at the northern tip of the island of Taiwan (officially, the Republic of China or ROC).

The island’s position—around 100 miles off the southeast coast of China and across major shipping lanes—has given it strategic importance. The first Europeans to reach there were the Portuguese in 1544, who named it Ihla Formosa (“beautiful island”). Since then, Taiwan has been colonized by the Dutch, the Spanish, the Chinese and the Japanese. Today, it is claimed by the People’s Republic of China (PRC), the ROC, and Taiwanese nationalists

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who seek independence—though the de facto government of Taiwan is the ROC. Although the majority of Taiwan’s population is Han Chinese, around two per cent of inhabitants belong to aboriginal tribes whose ancestors inhabited the island for thousands of years prior to colonisation. In fact, some academics believe that Taiwan is the cradle of all Austronesian populations.

Colonisation began in 1624, when the Dutch invaded the southwest of the island as part of a campaign to disrupt Portuguese and Spanish activities in East Asia and build their own trading relations with the Ming Empire and Japan.

They recruited Chinese settlers on a large scale to facilitate the production of agricultural commodities, namely rice and sugar. The Spanish established themselves in the north of the island but were driven out by the Dutch in less than 20 years.

Taiwan’s first Chinese government was established in 1661, giving way to the Qing dynasty (China’s last imperial dynasty) in 1684. Much later, the island was ceded to Japan by the 1895 Treaty of Shimonoseki which concluded the Sino-Japanese War. It stayed under Japanese rule for half a century until 1945, when

Taiwan is the most populous state and the largest economy outside the United Nations

the Japanese surrendered to the Allies and the ROC—which had been established in mainland China in 1912 after the fall of the Qing dynasty—took control of Taiwan and the surrounding islands.

In 1949, when the ROC lost mainland China to the Communists in the Chinese Civil War, it withdrew to Taiwan where ROC leader Chiang Kai-shek declared martial law. As a founding member of the United Nations, the ROC continued to represent China at the organisation until 1971, when the PRC assuxmed China’s seat.

In the late 50s and early 60s, Taiwan entered a period of rapid economic growth and industrialisation. It became known for its cheap manufactured exports, hence the well-known phrase “Made in Taiwan”. Martial law was lifted in 1987 and the country began its transition from one-party rule to democracy. The first direct presidential elections were held in 1996.

Today, the country’s economy is dominated by services and to a slightly lesser extent, manufacturing. Taiwan also has the fifth

city break largest foreign reserves in the world, behind those of only China, Japan, Saudi Arabia and Switzerland. Despite closer economic ties with mainland China, political differences remain unsolved.

Under its One China Policy, the PRC refuses diplomatic relations with any country that maintains official ties with the ROC (hence the controversy over the phone call between US President Trump and Taiwan President Tsai Ingwen late last year). Taiwan is not recognised as an independent country by much of the world, though many states maintain unofficial ties through representative offices and institutions.

During our stay, it was the Summer Universiade (or World University Games), a global multisport event and one of the few international events that the island is able to host given the controversy over its political status.

Eat and drink Raohe Night Market Much better than your average night market and less touristy than the one at Shilin. This one is packed with fantastic food—each stall has its own speciality so ordering is easy and there is lots of variety. Think pork buns, fried squid, spicy sweetcorn, Japanese omelettes, stinky tofu fries, and much more. My favourite were the black pepper pork buns—get them from the stall at the entrance near the temple (when you enter from the eastern end). The queue moves quickly.

The nearest MRT is Songshan Station—you can get taxis but the MRT is a great, easy-to-use way to get around.

Buses are trickier.

Addiction Aquatic Development

Addiction Aquatic Development The name does not do this place justice. This beautifully laid out fish market houses fresh seafood, a supermarket, restaurants and food kiosks all under one roof. Grab a basket, pile in some beers and sushi (or whatever takes your fancy), and eat at one of the tables outside (standing only but sheltered).

No. 18, Alley 2, Lane 410, Minzu E Rd, Zhongshan District

Brown Sugar A spacious restaurant/bar with food and live music—great for after-dinner drinks or if you want a less Did you know? authentic hangout for a while. The The major religions of Taiwan are music is usually soul/jazz.

Buddhism and Taoism. A small perNo. 101, Songren ian.

Christ is centage of the population Road, Xinyi District

Xin Yeh Taiwanese buffet—a good selection of dishes.

2/F, 112 Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Road Mala Guo The Chinese word for spicy hotpot. There is an all-you-can-eat buffet for NT$600.

Go out of Zhongxiao Dunhua MRT station Exit 2, take the first left, then turn right. Keep walking straight, you may have to ask someone.

Ay Chung Flour Rice Noodles This street food stall is always surrounded by a crowd of people slurping its noodles. The menu is simple: soft vermicelli noodles and bits of salty cured pig intestines in a thick gravy. Choose large or small. You can add vinegar, chili oil and garlic in the condiments corner.

Several locations, including No.8-1 Emei Street, Ximending

Raohe Night Market; (Bottom left): the famous black pepper pork buns.

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travel Beef noodle soup Taiwan is well known for this delicious dish of beef chunks (or slices) and noodles in a hearty and flavourful broth. Find it throughout the city

See/Do Inside the city Hire a bike Government bike rental system Youbike provides rentals, at NT$10 per 30 minutes. Check the website for details and a map of rental stations in the city, taipei.youbike.com.tw/en. The riverside is a great place to cycle (or walk).

A teashop owner invites us in

Biking along the riverside

National Palace Museum Originally founded within Beijing’s Forbidden City in 1925, this museum moved to Taipei following the ROC’s relocation in 1949. It houses over 600,000 precious artefacts moved to Taiwan to prevent their desecration during and after the Chinese Civil War—including the famous Jade Cabbage. Afterwards, you can head across the street to the Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines, dedicated to Taiwan’s indigenous cultures.

Dadaocheng A nice area to walk around. The main street—Dihua Street—is the oldest street in Taipei, with some sections in existence since Dutch rule. Find plenty of Chinese medicinal herbs, dried fruits, fabrics, incense, and tea.

Lungshan Temple One of the oldest temples in the city.

There’s also a road of fortune tellers next door.

Taipei 101 Head up to the 89th floor of this architectural landmark via what was once the Guinness World Record holder for fastest elevator in the world—37 seconds to be precise.

Ximending A really busy area, with lots of lights and people around in the evenings. Plenty of fashion shops (local and international brands) and its own night market—plus some nice bars. Exit 5 or 6 at Ximending MRT Station.

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Jiufen This mountain town was built by the Japanese and was the inspiration behind the animated Studio Ghibli film Spirited Away. Now, it’s a maze of lanes and alleyways, the centre of which can become very crowded as busloads of visitors arrive. It’s about a 1.5-hour bus ride away from the centre of Taipei.

Outside the city

Beitou This thermal hot spring area was developed into a resort under the Japanese. You could visit on your way back to the city from Tamsui. The area around Xinbeitou station is filled with public and private baths, but check the etiquette before entering. Book a private room in advance to avoid disappointment. We were recommended Beitou Spring City Resort by a friend—take a cab there from Xinbeitou Station.

Tamsui A really nice seaside town to visit in the daytime. Tamsui Old Street is a boardwalk lined with shops, restaurants and vendors selling local snacks. Also within the district is the hilltop Fort San Domingo, built by the Spanish.

Ali Mountain The focal point of the Alishan National Scenic Area, known for its tea, spring cherry blossoms and hiking trails. It’s also home to the Tsou tribe, who each October celebrate the Life Bean or Fona Festival.

Elephant Mountain, Xiangshan The hiking trail is steep, but the short route (take a left at the fork) is only 20 minutes and offers great views of the city at sunset.

The bright lights of Ximending

The alleyways of Jiufen

city break Did you know?

The official language of Taiwan anhua) is Mandarin Chinese. Taiwanese (Minn ts to a is also spoken, and other local dialec nese much lesser extent. Some elderly Taiwa ed can speak Japanese because they attend school during the Japanese occupation. g English may be spoken in cities to varyin degrees.

Yangmingshan The closest national park to Taipei, around 50 minutes by bus from Shilin station— particularly beautiful from October thanks to golden red maple leaves.

Stay Regent Taipei The Regent Taipei is centrally located, within walking distance of shops and the MRT. Incidentally, it was also a filming location for the 2014 science fiction film Lucy, directed by Luc Besson and starring Scarlett Johansson.

Back to reality, the daily buffet breakfast is great with a huge variety of food. The rooms are comfortable and spacious and come with heated toilet seats—a delightful surprise. There’s a 17 metre outdoor swimming pool on the roof, a wellequipped gym in the basement and a high end shopping mall beneath.

The Tai Pan lounge at the Regent Taipei

Those who opt for more luxurious Tai Pan rooms get butler service and exclusive access to the Tai Pan Lounge. The lounge is open 24 hours a day, a quiet place to read or get work done. It has great views, a selection of newspapers, two Macs and serves complimentary afternoon tea daily, as well as drinks and food in the evenings.

The Regent Academy programme offers 10 bespoke historical, cultural and lifestyle activities, available for individuals or groups. Try a private

cooking session with Regent’s star chef, create your very own fragrance at CYRANO, or go on a Regent butler-accompanied shrimp fishing outing–a local Taiwanese pastime. Experiences start at NT$600.

Nightly rates vary by season, but currently start at NT$5,950 plus taxes.

To book, visit regenthotels.com/regent-taipei No. 3, Lane 39, Section 2, Zhongshan N Rd. M

MID-LEVELS.CO | 39

picture this

Painting of the month: A 1920S FONG BUILDING

by Kristy Lau

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arts and minds 60 seconds with the artist.

Tell me about yourself.

My pseudonym is “Bitchy K”. I use this nickname in my social circles, and now I am extending it as my artistic identity.

I was born in Hong Kong and brought up in a middle-class family. My father was one of the city’s first harbour pilots post WW2. His adventurous spirit and inquisitive mind shaped my personality and outlook on life—I inherited my curious mind from him.

When I was young my father often took me out for walks. We would stop and admire old buildings along the way, such as those on High Street. I would ask him non-stop questions about the history of those buildings and what the people were doing inside.

Old Hong Kong architecture holds a special place in my heart, especially those built with a mix of western and oriental styles.

These buildings are unique to Hong Kong but sadly, most of them are gone.

I want to relive the romance of old Hong Kong by recreating these buildings in paintings.

Describe yourself if three words.

Bitchy—I am down to earth. I do not like fake people.

Adventurous—I am an explorer. I am curious.

Complicated—I can be an introvert and an extrovert at the same time.

What are your passions?

I’m glad that I climbed into many abandoned buildings during my teenage years. I was fascinated by the details of the wooden flooring; the fireplace etc., I used to wonder what kind of lives the owners had.

I love old things; I have a small collection of old toys, telephones, stamps, coins, cameras, and other vintage collectibles. In my free time, as well as checking out old buildings, I like to browse second-hand stores.

I am in the process of setting up an album of my collection for public viewing.

Besides painting, music like jazz or salsa are important elements of my life, I enjoy listening to music when I am painting.

I am also an avid dancer. I learned ballet and have joined latin dance competitions—I love salsa dancing most.

Where do you live?

I live in a reclusive enclave in Sai Kung, The New Territories. It is surrounded by lush trees, with a river close to my home as well as a small glimpse of the seascape. I enjoy this little village’s quietness and people are very friendly

How long have you been painting?

I have been painting since I can remember— everything from interesting people to boring objects, more as a hobby than anything serious.

Recently I started specializing in the old architecture of Hong Kong, and discovered that’s where my strength is. Through word of mouth and private showings I have received commissions from individuals and corporations. I am still a small artist, but these commissions have enabled me to paint full time since the beginning of last year.

What’s the story behind this picture?

Even though I’ve lived in Sai Kung for some years, I found this old building by accident, so I took some photos and researched its history.

I imagined what it was like when the whole Fong family lived there and their lives during WW2...

Where would you like to paint next in Hong Kong?

I like buildings with a fascinating story. It can be a grand mansion or a humble stone house, or even a wooden cow barn, as long as there is a story behind it. We have an extensive archive of old houses on the Peak, I will be looking to that area for inspiration.

Where can we find more of your paintings?

Instagram. My account name is “bitchy_kristy” To find my paintings or hand–painted tees, visit my Facebook page: facebook.com/iloveoldhongkongsomuch Is there anything you’d like to add?

I am also an amateur linguist. I study the etymology of Cantonese slang. I sometimes host classes on the history of slang. I am currently compiling my notes into a book; so you might see a slang book from me in the future. M

Have you painted Hong Kong?

Each month we feature a painting of Hong Kong and a 60-second interview with the artist who created it. If you’d like to be featured, email editorial@hongkongliving.com

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Horoscopes

hong kong horoscopes

AQUARIUS Jan 21 – Feb 19

PISCES Feb 20 – Mar 20

ARIES Mar 21 – Apr 20

TAURUS Apr 21 – May 21

The goddess Chang’e resides on the moon, alone save for a rabbit as a companion. Another legend has it that the woodcutter Wu Gang lives up there, chopping down an osmanthus tree that grows back as soon as it’s toppled. It must be a lonely life for them both: perhaps a moonlit night is the perfect time for a touch of matchmaking?

The Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail is, as the name suggests, ancient. It was originally the only path which linked Yuen Long to Tsuen Wan, and farmers would wearily trudge along it every day, taking their goods to market. These days it’s a pleasant hike with stunning views of the Tsing Ma Bridge. The next time you’re hiking it, think about the thousands of footsteps taken on this path before you—and be glad you’re not carrying a basketful of vegetables.

Li Bai was the greatest Tang Dynasty poet, and his “Quiet Night Thought” is his best-known work. It’s a rumination on seeing the moon from his bed, and realizing that same light is shining on his hometown, far away. But where Li Bai feels homesickness, I’m heartened that the same light shines on us all: it brings us together, Aries. Share some moonlight with friends this month.

For 56 years from 1939, the RMS Queen Elizabeth was the largest ocean liner in the world, plying her trade between the UK and the USA. After retiring from service she ended up in Hong Kong harbour, where her tycoon owner intended to turn her into a floating university. But in 1972, she caught fire under mysterious circumstances and was sunk. An ignominious end, Taurus – but a timely reminder that sometimes things don’t turn out great, and that’s OK.

LEO Jul 23 – Aug 22

VIRGO Aug 23 – Sep 23

LIBRA Sep 24 – Oct 23

SCORPIO Oct 24 – Nov 22

“Add oil!” This Cantonese saying is a phrase of encouragement, exhorting someone to step on the gas, to put in a little extra dose of effort. You’ll hear it all over town, but I want to say it to you, Leo. What do you need an extra boost with? Your career, friendships, love life?

Whatever it is, Leo – add oil!

Did you know an indoor roller coaster runs around the top floor of Sham Shui Po’s Dragon Centre? Sadly, it’s been out of use since the mid-2000s, and now the rails which snake across the central atrium lie untravelled.

What a shame! Still, I love the idea. Find an aspect of your life that needs a roller coaster ride, and let yourself drop into it.

There’s a legend behind the salted egg yolk at the centre of a mooncake. It’s said that Ming revolutionaries hid messages inside mooncakes, in order to coordinate a revolt against the Mongol rulers. Once the message was received, the cake could be eaten to disguise the means of delivery. A devious and delicious plan—and a reminder that even the most unassuming of packages can contain so much more.

Autumn approaches, and the leaves on the trees begin shifting hues, from green to golden oranges and vivid yellows. Well, not in Hong Kong. Most trees here are evergreen, and their foliage doesn’t change colour. Be like the evergreen, Aries: remember that you don’t always have to change to suit the seasons. Sometimes, following your own path is the best course.

As transmitted to Adam White, writer, editor and occasional soothsayer 42 | MID-LEVELS.CO

GEMINI May 22 – Jun 21

CANCER Jun 22 – Jul 22

The Sea Ranch was a luxurious development on Lantau island constructed in the 1970s. Originally billed as a luxury resort for wealthy Hongkongers, nonexistent land links and lack of interest killed off the development. But it never went anywhere, and nowadays an independentminded population still lives in this isolated slice of paradise.

Sometimes an idea just needs to find its audience, Gemini: just ask The Sea Ranch.

During the Chung Yeung festival, Hongkongers gather to fly kites. They’re said to be able to carry your bad luck up, up and away. You don’t have to go and buy a kite just for the festival, Cancer. But how about this: Send a mental kite up into the heavens, and let it float your anxiety and your worries away.

SAGITTARIUS Nov 23 – Dec 21

CAPRICORN Dec 22 – Jan 20

The sweltering summer is finally receding, and hiking season is here at last! I wish you good luck on the trails, Sagittarius. Because at some point, you will be overtaken by a troupe of grannies with thighs of steel. Do not try to match pace. Do not try to overtake them back. Accept that sometimes, you won’t be able to beat everyone—and that’s OK.

One of my favourite places in all of Hong Kong is Tsui Wah restaurant on Wellington Street. Why? Because this 24-hour, three-floor cha chaan teng contains multitudes. By day it’s a place for office drones to grab a quick breakfast or lunch. In the evenings teens and shoppers get dinner.

And in the small hours, the clubbers of Lan Kwai Fong come for much-needed sustenance. It’s flexible, adaptable, and so it’s cherished. Is there a Tsui Wah in you, Capricorn?

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The latest green issues affecting our city.

A Citizens Task Force is to be established in response to concerns over the newly appointed Task Force on Land Supply

W

hen the Chief Executive formed the Task Force on Land Supply last month she forgot the promise in her manifesto to “draw on the collective wisdom of society...to find a solution that benefits the community as a whole”, to “establish a dedicated task force representing various sectors” and to “strive to engage the public to reach a consensus on land supply.”

What we now have is a narrow development oriented group which includes the Heung Yee Kuk and misses out many sectors. The focus of the task force is on providing land to cope with development needs. Many members have previously expressed support for developing country park areas, filling in Plover Cove reservoir and/or large scale reclamations near Lantau.

Absent are the green and urban planning concern groups. Obvious talent such as Liber Research Community, which does phenomenal research into land issues on a shoestring, is strikingly absent. The closest we get to members concerned with conservation of natural areas and ecologically sensitive habitats areas are two semi-retired geography professors. They are well versed in sustainability, but they do not represent Hong Kong’s current environmentalists and urban planning advocates, nor do they connect with the larger and younger land justice groups.

In considering nominations for the Task Force, Carrie Lam’s subordinates weeded out all those who would challenge the norm. Now, Hong Kong risks missing out on the smarter solutions which follow from true debate.

In response, a number of us have agreed to set up a Citizen Task Force on Land Use and Supply (CTF). Participants include green groups, academia, lawyers, planners and architects, including those who work for developers, and young land justice activists. The CTF will consider supply as well as drivers for demand.

Anyone travelling through the chaos of the

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Photo by Wpcpey

Supply & demand

zim city

Construction at Kai Tak

New Territories must wonder about our inefficient land use. Of the 18,854 hectares which appears developed only around 6,700 hectares is well laid out towns like Sha Tin and Yuen Long. Around 1,700 hectares will be converted into new towns such as Hung Shui Kiu, Kwu Tung and Yuen Long South. That leaves 10,000 hectares of land covered with chaotic villages and brownfield areas which lacks proper roads, sewerage and other infrastructure. Land which is abused for all kinds of trades, and much of which is consumed by roads—the interchanges at Yau Ma Tei, the Cross Border Facility being built at the end of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge, and the new roads under construction at Kai Tak, to name a few.

The Government Task Force will take a macro review of land supply options and launch a public engagement exercise to discuss their pros and cons.

The CTF’s objective is to ensure government transparency and fair public participation in these discussions. It wants a focus on the values and criteria for making decisions on land use and supply.

The CTF will meet regularly in public, seek funding, conduct research and make proposals. The government has the money and much of the data, so ideally it will invite the CTF to work closely or merge with its own task force. It would make for healthier debates and less division.

But maybe that is too much to ask. M

Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.

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marketplace

marketplace

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46 | MID-LEVELS.CO

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MID-LEVELS.CO | 47

Exploring Hong Kong’s historic buildings

Jennifer Lee explores a spookier side of Wan Chai’s infamous nightlife

W

ant some scary stories to tell in the dark? Look no further than Nam Koo Terrace. Located on Ship Street, Nam Koo Terrace seems distinctly unspooky at first glance. But this unassuming, now-abandoned building, which lurks between the high-rises and bustling streets of Wan Chai, is known as one of Hong Kong’s most haunted locations, popularly known as “The Wan Chai Haunted House”. It was built sometime between 1915 and 1921 and owned by a Shanghai merchant family by the name of To. In 1996, it was declared a Grade I Historical Building by the Antiquities Advisory Board— the building incorporates features of various architectural schools, with elements of feng shui.

Nam Koo Terrace’s reputation as a site of paranormal interest began after its owner, To Chak-man, died of unknown causes inside it during the Second World War. According to local folklore, it then served as a brothel for Japanese soldiers during the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong. It is said that the ghosts of “comfort women” kept there have been sighted in the building. According to stories, Nam Koo Terrace has also been the location of several suicides,

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Photo by Tksteven via Wikimedia Commons

Nam Koo Terrace

building of the month

and mysterious screams and unearthly voices are said to come from behind its gates and doors. Those who died in the house are said to haunt the place at night, spewing “green fire” in the dark.

The building has, of course, attracted its fair share of curious visitors and ghost hunters who want to know what lies behind its walls.

One of the most famous incidents involving this building occurred In 2003, when a group of eight secondary school students stayed in the house overnight in an attempt to catch a glimpse of the ghosts. Local newspapers, including the Oriental Daily, reported that three girls claimed they had been attacked by the building’s paranormal residents, and were sent to hospital by police to receive psychiatric treatment. It is even said that one of the girls became possessed and attacked the police officers.

Dare to see for yourself? For those who aren’t afraid of things that go bump in the night, Nam Koo Terrace is accessible from Exit B2 of Wan Chai MTR Station. But for those who are more superstitious, if you ever find yourself in the area, you might want to consider walking on the other side of the road! M

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