FAMILY | FOOD | TRAVEL | ARTS & CULTURE
October 2017 Think pink
Raising breast cancer awareness
May the force be with you Life as a marine police officer
School visit to…
Canadian International School
Transition in Stanley Lucy’s becomes Henry’s Enter ou
Readersr Survey ’
to win BI G prizes
Understated is overrated In conversation with South Island Cultural District founder Dominique Perregaux
PLUS
what’s on for South Island Art Day
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The really useful magazine October 2017
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46 PEOPLE 4 Snapped! Southside’s social life THE PLANNER 6 Happening in October What’s on THINGS WE’D BUY 12 Tricks or treats To make your Halloween spooktacular NEWS 14 What’s going on? In your backyard GIVEAWAYS 18 Free stuff Fab things to win READERS’ SURVEY 19 Tell us about yourself Enter to win a six-month contract at Pure!
54 FIVE MINUTES WITH... 20 Ng Kong Kin ‘Fire dragon’ craftsman of Pok Fu Lam LOCAL 22 A trashy affair e investigate fly tipping in Southside HEALTH 24 Breast cancer awareness Three people tell us about their fight against breast cancer, including a male patient EATING 30 Lucy’s to Henry’s The Stanley favourite gets a new lease of life. Plus Nibbles HK ADVENTURES 36 Yu Lan Festival The Hungry Ghost Festival
39 COVER STORY 38 South Island Art Day What not to miss HOME & LIVING 44 Bean Buro The Tai Tam home with a disappearing corridor EDUCATION 46 Canadian International School On innovation and technology BIG DAY OUT 50 Three Fathoms cove A walk to remember INTERVIEW 54 May the force be with you Life as a marine police officer TRAVEL 58 Taipei Our favourite attractions and culinary delights
PETS 64 Ask Dr Pauline On excessive howling and scratching HOROSCOPE 66 You will meet a tall, dark stranger Adam White reveals what lies in store for you ZIM CITY 68 Paul Zimmerman on… A new Citizens Task Force on Land Use and Supply SOUTHSIDE SECRETS 72 Stanley Mosque A mosque within a prison
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“WHERE THERE IS NO IMAGINATION THERE IS NO HORROR.” - SIR ARTHUR CONAN DOYLE
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 1
contributors
Raphael Boricalel, tsocial
bout hi st ... is pa ss io n at e a . Born in Fra n ce, he es a n d po lit ica l issu on g K on g eig ht yea rs H h it rt ia ry fe ll in lo ve w to pu rs u e hi s te ed id ec d d n a e is a go ca l u nive rs ity. H ed u cation at a lo yea r, m ajorin g in ird cu rrently in hi s th el lo ve s w rit in g a n d a ph a R io n jou rn a lis m. elie ve s th at pa ss b d n a g lin el yt ess. st or th e ke ys to su cc a n d fa irn ess a re
Jennifer Lee
‌. stu di ed En glish a nd Ph ilo so ph y at th e U nive rsity of H on g Ko ng, in clu di ng fo ur m onth s at R ut ge rs U nive rsity, N ew Je rse y, wh ere sh e wo rk ed on stu de nt m ag azin e Th e A nt ho log ist. Sh e ha rbou rs drea m s of lea rn in g m ore la ng ua ge s a nd pe rh ap s writi ng a bo ok so m ed ay. H er fre e tim e is us ua lly sp ent watchi ng m ov ie s a nd te lev isi on or lost in a go od bo ok.
n o s p m i S a c c e b e R yea rs ago for a drea m
a ... a rrived in A si in g m u ch ig ht ed in spen d n el d d n a le ro PR re g io n g a rou n d th e ea uty of h er ti m e flyi to ta lk a bout b e id pa g n ti et g a nd ht ers, sh wit h two d a u g p rod u ct s. N ow, ily h o m e r floati n g fa m ei th m o fr s k wor a n ew in g a n d liv in g in L a nt a u, w rit a trip to Ca n a dia n on d rea m. Join h er l on pa g e 46. ch oo I nt ern ation a l S
Want to write for Southside Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com
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SOUTHSIDE.HK | 3
people Snaps from Southside
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have your say “What is your favourite place in Southside?” I love Deep Water Bay. Every summer I go swimming there with my friends.
- Norma
Definitely Aberdeen Square. I love the stoned streets and pagodas. It’s surrounded by all these great dessert shops and char siu places.
- Shubha I like Aberdeen a lot. There are so many versatile stores there. I often eat at Yoshinoya. I like the rice and soup noodles.
- Dominic
I like going to Stanley Beach. The water is really clean there and the food is great too.
- Rashmi Deep Water Bay because there’s a good ambiance there and I like playing sports and swimming by the beach.
- Vinay
Ap Lei Chau Basketball Court! I go there once a week.
- Francis SOUTHSIDE.HK | 5
planner
OCT 29
Repulse Bay Triple
Photo courtesy of artist and Blindspot Gallery
Part of Hong Kong Beach Festival. Challenge yourself with three high-intensity interval swims in an afternoon. Each swimmer must complete all three races to get a total race time—the shortest total race time wins. 2-6pm, at Repulse Bay Beach. Find out more at openwaterasia.com and register at raceresults.com.hk/event/70
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UNTIL NOV 10 Tale of the Wonderland
OCT 2 The day following National Day
This group exhibition uses Carroll’s much-loved Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland as a basis to construct a narrative spanning 20 years in postcolonial Hong Kong. Blindspot Gallery, 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Road. blindspotgallery.com
Public holiday!
OCT 1 National Day A day commemorating the anniversary of the establishment of the People’s Republic of China. Catch the fireworks as they light up Victoria Harbour, starts at 9pm.
OCT 2 Sotheby’s Contemporary Ink Art Auction: Confluence A thematic sale of contemporary art spanning works by artists trained in, or influenced by, the ink painting tradition. The sale features paintings by artists such as Hans Hartung, CharlesHossein Zenderoudi, Krishen Khanna and Isamu Noguchi. 11am, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. More information at sothebys.com
Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance Festival
OCT 3-6
Dating back to 1880, the annual Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance Festival returns as part of the Mid-Autumn Festival. For three nights and days, visitors can see the famous 67-metre-long ‘fire dragon’ as it winds its way through the streets of Tai Hang. Around 10:45–11:30pm on October 4 at Victoria Park. All other dates, around 8:15–10:30pm at Tai Hang. For more information visit taihangfiredragon.hk
happening in October OCT 4 Pok Fu Lam Fire Dragon Dance While not as well known as its counterpart in Tai Hang, this dragon dance is not to be missed. See the fiery dragon dance its way through the village towards the sea. 7pm-11:30pm, Pok Fu Lam Village. Visit travelsouth.hk
OCT 5 The day following Chinese MidAutumn Festival Public holiday!
Photo by Dilontai via Wikimedia Commons
OCT 6-7 (Blurred) Lines Paintshop Eicó has teamed up with The Art House Asia to present a pop-up gallery showcasing art and photography from artist Philippa Bloom. Evergreen Industrial Mansion, 12 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang. Open from 6pm on the October 6 and 10am-8pm on the October 7. RSVP by October 1 to info@eicohk.com
OCT 6 TEDxTurtleCove: ‘Who are you... really?’ Organized by Southside resident Barbara Shaw, speakers include senior TED fellow and founder of HK MakerBay Cesar Harada, MIT graduate
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planner
OCT 7
Clean Half
This extreme open water marathon swim starts at Stanley Main Beach and finishes at Deep Water Bay, where the after-party includes a barbecue and DJ at Deep Water Bay. This year sees a new race category: YakSwimmers (two swimmers, one kayak, 30-minute rotations the entire way). Main start time is 11am, though teams and solos who need more time start earlier. To register, visit openwaterasia.com
offered from over 40 leading teachers and visionaries related to wellness, yoga, healing, ceremony, culture, wisdom, and earth knowledge on Cheung Chau. Sai Yuen Farm, Cheung Chau. Visit thegardengathering.com for more information.
South Island Art Day
and CANA Elite tutor Timothy Lee, and World Marathon Challenge winning Creature Comforts vet David Gething. $200 entry. Age 18 and above only. 8-10pm, American Club, Tai Tam. Sign up at ted.com/tedx/events/24081
OCT 7-15 Hong Kong Tennis Open Watch as world-class players descend on Hong Kong to battle it out for the grand prize of US$500,000. The first three days of the tournament are free to the public on a first come, firstserved basis. Thereafter, tickets start at $160. Victoria Park Tennis Stadium, Causeway Bay. Buy tickets at cityline.com and Tom Lee outlets, or call 2111 5333
OCT 8-29
Happy Valley. $2,500 per student. Email lizzi@ glitterandgore.hk with enquiries.
OCT 11-12 The Roots of Flamenco Join Flamenco’s “Golden Couple” Sonia Olla and Ismael Fernandez for two nights of performances. Olla and Fernandez worked with Madonna for her 2015-2016 album “Rebel Heart” - Sonia choreographed while samples of Ismael’s voice are featured in “La Isla Bonita.” 8pm, Sheung Wan Civic Centre. Buy tickets through urbtix.hk
Over 50 stalls selling handmade crafts, jewellery, accessories and books, among other treasures. The Helena May, 35 Garden Road, Central. Call 2522 6766 or visit helenamay.com for more information.
Scare School HK by Glitter and Gore
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Hosted by the South Island Cultural District, this is a showcase of contemporary art, dance, and music by local and international artists. There will be free food and drink throughout the event as well as a Kids Corner to keep the tots busy. 12-8pm, Wong Chuk Hang, Tin Wan, and Aberdeen; free shuttle buses run between venues. sicd.com.hk
OCT 12 Helena May Charity Bazaar
OCT 13-15
A course of four workshops, created and led by professional Scare Actors from the UK. Students will create their own Haunted House walkthrough for friends and family to visit during the final workshop! 10am-12.30pm and 1.30-4pm on Sundays. Dramatic English Education Centre,
OCT 14
SUNDAYS FROM OCT 15 Container Port BBQ Boat Trip Join a tour on a boat trip that explores one of the largest and busiest container ports in the world. See ships loading, unloading, refueling, and being pushed by tugs. 11am-3:30pm. $900 per adult, $760 per child, including a sausage sizzle, salads and vegetables, carrot cake and beer, wine, soft drinks and water. Book tickets at hongkongyachting.com
OCT 21 Hong Kong Maternity + Baby Event The Garden Gathering A three-day retreat into nature with classes
A chance for expectant and new parents to learn about maternity and babies with speakers, exhibitors and partners. The event also offers products and services. 9:30am–4:30pm, the
happening in October JW Marriott. Free admission when you register online at thehkmaternitybabyevent.eventbrite.hk
OCT 21 Hong Kong International School Pumpkin Festival Enjoy seasonal activities including a pumpkin patch, a bouncy castle and slide, games with prizes, a talent show, a used-book fair, Boo-tique shopping and food. 11am-3pm, Hong Kong International Middle School, 700 Tai Tam Reservoir Road.
OCT 21 Harbour School Open House The Harbour School’s preparatory school, The Harbour Village, is holding an open house. 10am-12pm, 2/F, 23 Belcher’s Street, Kennedy Town. Sign up at theharbourschool.openapply.com/openday
OCT 22 ESF 50th Anniversary Marathon In celebration of ESF’s 50th anniversary. Race categories include 1km to 10km runs and a 1km family walk. There will also be a community carnival. Visit the carnival from 9:30am–4pm at Edinburgh Place, Central, and watch the races from 8am–10:30am at the Central harbourfront.
OCT 26-29 Wine and Dine Festival Enjoy wine-pairing menus prepared by master chefs, tasting classes with industry experts, and wine and food booths spanning everything from single malts to artisanal cheese. Central Harbourfront Event Space, $30 admission. For opening times, visit discoverhongkong.com
OCT 29 Harbour Race 2017
The Sedan Chair Charity Race
OCT 29
Race with a sedan chair to raise money for charity. All funds will go to local small charities which run education, health or social welfare community programmes. The Matilda International Hospital, Mount Kellett Road. Sign up at sedanchairace.org
Watch thousands of swimmers racing across the Victoria Harbour. From 8:30am, Tsim Sha Tsui Public Pier.
OCT 28-29 Hong Kong Beach Festival Sport lovers, parents and kids are invited to the fifth International Hong Kong Beach Water Polo Tournament. Even if you don’t play water polo, grab some friends and head to the beach for other tournaments and activities, including dodgeball, volleyball, fitness and yoga. There will also be beer, pizza and music as well as sand castle workshops and games for kids. The festival is free to enter as a spectator; if you’re playing, fees apply. 10am-6pm, Repulse Bay Beach, facebook.com/hkbeachfest, register your team at openwaterasia.com
OCT 31 Halloween Boo! See page 12 for prop and costume ideas.
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 9
planner
BOOK NOW NOV 7 Melbourne Cup Charity Long Lunch To coincide with one of the most anticipated dates in horse racing, Farmer’s Market is teaming up with local charity Angels for Orphans to host a long lunch at the Aberdeen Marina Club. Enjoy free-flow drinks and canapés, a three-course meal, followed by transport to The Butcher’s Club Secret Kitchen for an after-party. Items in the charity auction include a week at a
luxury villa in Bali. Funds raised go to Angels for Orphans to support their work with underprivileged children. 10am-2pm, and 2:30-10pm for the after party. Early bird tickets cost $980 per person. Group tickets are also available at farmersmarket.com.hk
NOV 11 Hong Kong Rugby Union Charity Ball Enjoy a night of classic rock and raise funds for Po Leung Kuk, which runs education and rugby training programmes for the city’s underprivileged children. $2,488 per person including a gourmet dinner, all-night drinks, and a concert by World Classic Rockers. Black tie dress code. HKCEC, Wan Chai. Book at ticketflap. com/hkrucharityball
NOV 17-19 Clockenflap Hong Kong’s biggest music and arts festival is back for its 10th edition. Growing rapidly in size since 2007, it has hosted many global names, and this year’s stars feature Cashmere Cat, Massive Attack, MØ, The Prodigy and more. $1,620 for a three-day pass. Single day passes start from $890, with student discounts starting from $570. Book online at clockenflap.com. Central Harbourfront, 9 Lung Wo Road, Central. Don’t forget to enter our giveaway for a chance to win a pair of three-day passes, see page18
NOV 18 Women’s Five November Run Women’s Five combines yoga and running to help ladies achieve their fitness goals. Registration includes a five-week health and wellness program prior to the run and weekly training meetups. You can also register for the run only. Prices start at $390, with discounts for teams. Register at womensfive.com
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
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things we’d buy
Kids Skeleton Suspender $79.90 from H&M Stores across Hong Kong including Stanley, hm.com
Something wicked
Halloween Cupcakes $280 per dozen standard size/$200 per 2 dozen mini size from Complete Deelite completedeelite.com
Embrace the Halloween with Catharina Cheung’s choice of tricks and treats Superhero Dress $249 from H&M online hm.com
Halloween Candy Rocks Starting from $68 from papabubble 34 Tung Lo Wan Road, Causeway Bay papabubble.com.hk Happybeans $28 from Happy Lab Pop up store from October 27-29 at Stanley Plaza happylab.com.hk
Halloween Foam Mask (3-pack) $59.90 from H&M online hm.com
Goodie Beetle Dog Suit $248 from Doggie Goodie doggiegoodie.com
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Halloween Cookie Treat Bags $28 per bag of 8 from Complete Deelite completedeelite.com
hocus pocus Hanging Skeleton Decoration $78 from Eezy Peezy Parties Store in Ap Lei Chau (by appointment only) eezypeezyparties.com Dominion Hex Bomb £7.99 from Bella Muerte ($84 shipping fee), available in various colours and scents bellamuerteclothing.com
Halloween Tic-Tac-Toe $160 from Swoon swoonxoxo.com Spooky floral dinner plate $45 from Swoon swoonxoxo.com
Design your own bat wings and ears $249 from Seedling seedling.com.hk Pink Monster Horn £11.95 from Ohh Deer ohhdeer.com
Jack O’Lantern Piñata $180 from Party Time Four locations including Prince’s Building and Times Square, partytime.com.hk
Bloody Hand Latex Balloons $35 for 6 from Party Time Four locations including Prince’s Building and Times Square, partytime.com.hk
High Heel Ankle Boots with Gathered Detail $599 from Zara Stores across Hong Kong, zara.com/hk
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news
BRIDGE PROPOSAL TO EASE TAI TAM RESERVOIR TRAFFIC
NEW CYBERPORT ROBOTICS LAB FOR KIDS Dalton Learning Lab has launched an afterschool lab to prepare young students for a world dominated by technology, robotics, and A.I. The lab, created by tech entrepreneur and father of three Yat Siu of Outblaze, aims to equip children aged 4 to 13 with skills such as divergent thinking, collaboration, and social intelligence, in addition to digital fluency. Courses are project-based and include robotics, coding and digital art. Prices start at $3,500 for an eight-week course. For details, visit daltonlearninglab.com, Unit 301, 3F, Core A, Cyberport 3, 100 Cyberport Road.
Hong Kong-based architect Scott Myklebust has revealed his designs for a new bridge at Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir—The Dragon’s Link II. This is a revised version of his earlier proposal, which Southside Magazine reported on in April. The designs have changed in one key respect. Instead of the new bridge carrying one-way northbound traffic and the narrow dam becoming a road for southbound vehicles, the new bridge is now proposed to support all vehicular traffic. The dam itself would be converted to a pedestrian walkway, with green features and amenities, much like the New York High Line, an elevated park space along old train tracks.
Currently Tai Tam Tuk Dam only has two narrow lanes going opposite directions, which often leads to bottlenecked traffic. Pedestrians and cyclists are barred access, though that has not stopped people from using the road at considerable personal risk. During typhoons or seasons with heavy rainfall, the dam is known to be susceptible to flooding, which contributes even further to traffic problems. The dam will be 100 years old come next February. Myklebust’s proposal was presented to the Transport Department at a Southern District Council meeting late last month. To find out more, visit m-codesign.com/dragons-link
DEHUMIDIFIER COMBUSTS OVERNIGHT Early last month, over 180 people in a residential building in Aberdeen were evacuated when a dehumidifier burst into flames. The source of the fire was traced to an apartment on the 10th floor of Lei Chak House at Ap Lei Chau Estate. The daughter in the family was woken up by heavy smoke coming from the kitchen in the wee hours of September 7; they then fled their flat and notified the police. The dehumidifier had been running overnight for several days prior to dry their laundry, and
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had also been in use for several hours before apparently short circuiting. Faulty dehumidifier fires are unfortunately common in Hong Kong; this case happens to be the fourth dehumidifier fire in three months. The Electrical and Mechanical Services Department wishes to remind citizens that care should be taken to ensure airflow is not obstructed and to not be used near dripping objects.
PREFABRICATED HOME TRIALS LAUNCH AT HKU As the government debates alternative solutions to Hong Kong’s housing supply issues, the University of Hong Kong and the Science and Technology Park have been designated as trial sites for prefabricated homes for staff and students. This idea of a low-rent residence solution was raised by the Council of Social Service late last month. The container homes are proposed to range from 160 to 320 sq. ft., each housing between two to five people and to be rented out at reduced rates to those on the public housing waiting list. Prefabricated homes could prove to be a time-saving option as homes can be assembled remotely while the land is being levelled for foundation work. Their use could also lessen noise and dust pollution. The pilot project at HKU will see the homes used as dormitories for students, while the installation at the Science and Technology Park in Sha Tin will serve as dormitories for employees of the park.
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 15
news
HKIS LOWER PRIMARY SCHOOL REOPENS REPULSE BAY CAMPUS
HKIS (Hong Kong International School) Lower Primary School reopened on September 15 after renovations to the campus. Since building work started in 2014, the Lower Primary has been sharing the Middle School’s space in Tai Tam. The new campus features an indoor swimming pool, auditorium and gymnasium, among other state-of-the-art facilities. It offers space for an extra 20 pupils for each grade level. There is also additional housing on site for faculty, and the campus is accessible to Upper
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Primary via a bridge. In total, HKIS has four school divisions across two campuses: the Lower Primary School is located in Repulse Bay, while the Upper Primary, Middle, and High Schools are in Tai Tam. Students at HKIS Lower Primary School learn science, maths, literacy, and Chinese all through play, a method also supported by the Hong Kong Education Bureau. Visit hkis.edu.hk for more details.
ABERDEEN TUNNEL GETS CASHLESS TOLL BOOTHS Octopus and credit card payment readers set up at Aberdeen Tunnel were opened to public usage on September 24. Accepted modes of payment are Octopus, Visa payWave, MasterCard Contactless, and UnionPay QuickPass cards. Drivers will still be able to pay in cash if they wish. Electronic payment is expected to halve each vehicle’s passage time down to five seconds. Southern District Councillor Paul Zimmerman, who has been campaigning for this payment system since last year, says the cut in queuing time at toll booths will also reduce congestion and air pollution, benefiting everyone, from motorists to tunnel staff. Aberdeen Tunnel is the second to receive cashless toll booths; Shing Mun Tunnel had them installed in July, and the next on the list is the Cross-Harbour Tunnel. By July 2018, the ‘Stop-and-go’ e-Payment system should be fully implemented at eight government-run tunnels and motorways. Visit td.gov.hk/en for further updates.
sponsored feature
Learning leaps into the future
Dalton Learning Lab opens at Cyberport with courses teaching your kids important future skills and how to think out of the box Dalton Learning Lab, located at the Cyberport, is a new and innovative after-school programme that aims to close the gap between formal education and the real-world needs of the future. The courses offered are all Englishlanguage and teach students the skills and knowledge that will be relevant in the techdominated economy of tomorrow. Technology shapes our world. Robots and AI are already replacing humans in the workforce, and this trend is accelerating. Formal education, with its antiquated emphasis on memorization, exams and standardized tests, fails to properly equip students with skills crucial for tomorrow’s economy. That’s where the Dalton Learning Lab comes in. The courses focus on skills like divergent thinking, design thinking, collaboration and digital fluency, in a framework of project-based learning and interdisciplinary education. For example, students undertaking the Coding courses learn to design, write and debug their own computer programmes. But in the process, they also learn about logic, problem solving, creativity, communication, working with others, storytelling and more. Dalton Learning Lab is a collaboration between technology innovator Outblaze and two co-founders of Dalton School Hong Kong (DSHK), a non-profit, child-centred dual language primary school integrating the heritage of Chinese culture with the progressive Dalton Plan. The Lab offers a variety of courses in Science, Technology, Engineering, the Arts and Mathematics (STEAM) for students aged four to 13. The Lab is the brainchild of technology entrepreneur Yat Siu (founder and CEO of Outblaze) who, as a father of three children, observed a gap between what students are being taught and the needs of our technologydominant future. He was concerned by the low priority placed by schools on divergent thinking, and realized that successful entrepreneurs and innovators embrace curiosity, empathy, creativity and risk tolerance - which are fostered by an approach that encourages divergent thinking. But Yat noted that Hong Kong schools instead rely on old-fashioned and uninspiring learning techniques like rote memorization and preparation for standard tests. So Yat partnered with Eva To and Peggy Yeoh, two of the DSHK co-founders, and set up a learning centre to emphasize divergent thinking and project-based learning.
Every course is taught by a professional who is currently active in his or her field, supported by a teacher or mentor. By marrying technologists with educators, Dalton Learning Lab offers hands-on courses that address realworld needs.
Courses offered Coding The Lab’s courses are more than just coding they teach the fundamentals of programming and algorithms, and encourage students to identify problems, think logically and divergently, design, write and refine programmes, debug programmes, use programming as a tool to achieve goals and apply algorithms to solve problems by logical reasoning. Courses available for ages 6-8 and 9-13, one lesson x 8 weeks. Choice of focus in Cubetto or Scratch.
Robotics The Robotics courses teach principles of science, technology, engineering and maths (STEM), as students design, build and programme their own robots. Skills learnt include collaboration, problem-solving and divergent thinking. By the end of the course they will have learnt how to understand the essential functions of different robots, build, assess and improve prototypes, and programme and control the movements of a robot or invention. Courses available for ages 6-8 and 9-13, one
lesson x 8 weeks. Choice of focus in Lego WeDo or Micro:bit.
Digital Art Creativity and creative thinking are of great value as AI and robots become common, and these courses teach students to be digitally fluent, think divergently, utilize technology creatively, and understand and apply the elements of art. Students will becomes familiar with software like Sketchbook Pro and Photoshop CC as they build their own digital art portfolios. Courses available for ages 5-7 and 8-13, one lesson x 8 weeks.
Music Learning music leads to improved academic performance, confidence, and ability to concentrate. But most music education is focused on conformance-based learning rather than creativity, easily leading to boredom and disinterest. The Dalton Learning Lab therefore takes a non-traditional approach to teaching popular instruments like the guitar and ukulele as well as music software, so that students are able to quickly develop a passion for music and its benefits. Courses available for ages 4-13, one lesson x 8 weeks. Dalton Learning Lab, Unit 301, 3F, Core A, Cyberport 3, 100 Cyberport Road, Hong Kong. Tel: 2362 9003 Email: admissions@daltonlearninglab.com DaltonLearningLab.com
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 17
win at hongkongliving.com
GIVEAWAYS
enter to win!
FAMILY STAYCATION Summer holiday feeling like a distant memory? We’re treating one family to a staycation at the Hyatt Regency Sha Tin, worth over $8,000. Relax and enjoy a night’s stay in a twobedroom family suite, with a complimentary breakfast buffet and one activity for two children at Camp Hyatt.
GRA PRIZ ND E!
With the heat finally wearing off it’s also a great time to get outdoors, so we’re throwing in an Ultraspire hydration vest—perfect for trail running and hiking—and a copy of The Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Hiking Guide. Enter now to win all three prizes, worth a total of $10,000!
Clockenflap
Mothercare
M.int Academy
Hong Kong’s biggest music and arts festival is back for its 10th edition. This year’s star-studded lineup features Massive Attack, The Prodigy, MØ and many more to be announced. We have three pairs of three-day weekend passes, valued at $1,940 each, to give away.
The leading British retailer of products for mothers-to-be, babies and children presents “Mothercare 1st Baby Expo”, a four-day convention from November 2-5 at KITEC, Kowloon Bay. Find great bargains, including $1 products and free gifts, from over 90 companies. For information, visit mothercare.com.hk We’re giving away one Snapkis Transformers 0-4 Car Seat, valued at $1,199. The first 60 entries will each get a pair of free tickets to the expo.
Recently co-founded by sisters Andrea and Philippa Wong, M.int Academy strives to provide personalised top-quality classical music training and create an inclusive musical community. We’re giving away five private classes valued at $4,600 to one lucky winner. Choose any instrument from the programme, or even mix and match classes. For more information, visit mintacademyhk.com
Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: southside.hk/subscribe
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five minutes with
Publisher
Tom Hilditch tom@hongkongliving.com
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Shreena Patel shreena@hongkongliving.com Contributing Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongliving.com Editor Eric Ho eric@hongkongliving.com Editorial Assistant Catharina Cheung catharina@hongkongliving.com
Design
Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongliving.com
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Published by
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NG KONG KIN
For 40 years, Master Ng has crafted the the centrepiece of Pok Fu Lam Village’s Mid-Autumn Festival parade —the “fire dragon”. Robyn Or finds out more I was born and raised in Pok Fu Lam village, where villagers have farmed and lived for over 200 years. My father arrived in Hong Kong in the 50s, fleeing civil war in China. He first settled in Jardine’s Lookout, which was one of the temporary resettlement areas in Hong Kong. He made a living by selling poultry in the village market. Villagers call me “Boss Chu” because I used to help my dad sell pork at the stall. Chu is a Chinese surname and it is pronounced the same as pork in Cantonese. In fact, I’m now a seafood stall owner. I sell seafood that I buy from Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market in the early morning.
HONG KONG hongkongliving.com
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In the 60s, I went to The Little Flower’s Catholic Primary School near Pok Fu Lam Village, which was built by the Paris Foreign Missions Society in the 19th century. As nine-year free
and compulsory education did not come into force until 1978, many children did not receive an education unless they attended a religious school for free. My school gave out bread, oatmeal, flour or noodles every Saturday.
I used to raise Magpies, Milvus Migrans and Gracula Religiosa
There was no after-school tuition; instead, nature was our second classroom. We used to go to the mountain behind the village after school and catch and play with different birds. We shot Turtle Doves and took them home
to make double boiled soup for dinner. We raised chickens and birds in front of our house. I used to raise Magpies, Milvus Migrans and Gracula Religiosa. At seven, my brother and I started to learn to make fire dragons. We collected the materials from around Pok Fu Lam Reservoir. The frame of the dragon head was made of bamboo sticks while the beard and the tail were made of Banyan aerial roots and the fan shaped leaves of Palm. The body was made up of grass. People may be more familiar with the annual Fire Dragon Dance in Tai Hang than the one in Pok Fu Lam Village. The origins of the dance can be traced back to over hundred years ago, when the peace in both villages was disrupted by plagues of different sorts. Pok Fu Lam Village was attacked by snakes while
straw man I began making this year’s 30-metre long fire dragon in the middle of September, in front of German Swiss International School. The most difficult part of making a fire dragon is getting the size right. Pok Fu Lam village is formed of small alleyways and corners, so the fire dragon has to be perfect in size to pass through with momentum.
Master Ng with volunteers
Tai Hang Village suffered storms. One villager was told in a dream to drive out the plagues by holding a Fire Dragon Dance during MidAutumn Festival. It worked, so the tradition was upheld. Nowadays, the purpose is to bring blessings and to educate younger generations on culture. Both dances have Intangible Cultural Heritage status in Hong Kong. Pok Fu Lam villagers take over the whole process of the Fire Dragon Dance, from
fundraising, to dragon making, to dancing—it really unites the community. Members of the public are very welcome to volunteer. On the night of Mid-Autumn Festival, the fire dragon tours the whole village as a blessing to all the villagers. Everyone attaches incense sticks to the skeleton of the fire dragon as it is paraded along Pok Fu Lam Road. The dance ends at Waterfall Bay, where the head of the fire dragon is temporarily returned to the sea.
I built a fire dragon work studio in front of Pok Fu Lam Village with bamboo sticks, grass and wires in 2009. It is open to the public, where they can see some of my crafts and tools. I also host workshops regularly at schools. In the workshops, I teach the basic skills for crafting with bamboo, then I let the students make whatever they want. Although my brother no longer lives in the village, he still helps to preserve the craft by teaching at a youth centre in Aberdeen. Don’t call me master of fire dragons; instead I think of myself as an artist. I only make fire dragons once a year, while I craft whatever comes up in my mind in daily. Recently I made a tiger sculpture, capable of carrying two adults. You can see some of my work in Pok Fu Lam Village. Just look out for anything made of bamboo sticks, grass and wire.
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 21
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THE CASE OF THE APPEARING RUBBISH
Jennifer Lee looks into reports of fly tipping in Southside
S
everal Southside residents have taken to social media in recent weeks to draw attention to the problem of rubbish in the area. “It’s awful everywhere in Repulse Bay right now as everyone is dumping their rubbish bins in the street,” said local resident Cressida Martin, who posted on Facebook about black rubbish bags that had been left on Beach Road after the typhoons. “It stinks and it’s disgusting, it will attract rats soon.” When asked what actions are being taken, the office of District Councillor for the Bays Area Fergus Fung said it had not been aware of a fly tipping problem in the area until recently. “In fact, we did not receive a complaint of fly tipping on Beach Road and Repulse Bay before the typhoons,” it said. “We will ask the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department to follow up and clean up as soon as possible. Also, we will ask them to put up some antilittering notices in the area.” However, Martin said that although the typhoons have made things worse, they are not the cause of the area’s rubbish problems, noting that it’s been happening since she moved to the area two years ago. “Normally rubbish gets left on the corner of South Bay Road by the post office,” she explains. “I can’t get the buggy round the pavement sometimes.” According to fellow resident Marcela Prieto-Millan, rubbish left on nearby Repulse Bay Road has also been going on for years. “The typhoon added to the problem... but I’m sure most of the rubbish comes from the construction or remodeling of nearby apartments,” she said of the areas near 125 Repulse Bay Road and across from China Petrol Station, mentioning furniture and big electrical items as the most commonly disposed
Rubbish outside 125 Repulse Bay Road
We have the additional burden of dog faeces left on our sidewalks
of. She noted that rubbish isn’t the only surprise the area has in store for pedestrians. “We have the additional burden of dog faeces left on our sidewalks. So on a good day in our neighbourhood, if you actually get to use a sidewalk
because there is no rubbish, you still have to be on the lookout for dog excrement.” Both Martin and Prieto-Millan cited inaction by the authorities. “No one’s doing anything to stop it,” Martin said. Prieto-Millan concurred, commenting, “I think what we need most is to see our neighborhood protected and well represented by our district representatives,” she said. “We need guarantees and some sort of accountability for their lack of action.” She called for more to be done, asking, “Where are the CCTV cameras to help identify those not cleaning after their dogs? Where are the fines? I know most of us expats get lost in translation when it comes to local laws. Perhaps
a trashy affair there should be a website where we could find information on recycling, rubbish regulation, local laws and contact information for our local district representatives, in English and French, and in an easily readable and accessible format.”
The Government has agreed to install two cameras on a trial basis
But not everyone agrees. Stanley resident and local campaigner Maxine Yao views things differently. “Most of the rubbish problems on the street are due to the typhoons,” she said. “The Food and Environmental Hygiene Department does not have sufficient manpower to clean up the rubbish, which is mainly fallen trees.” She also challenged the attribution of the rubbish on Repulse Bay Road to property developers. “As far as I am aware, there is no special construction on Repulse Bay Road. Most construction here belongs to big developers who have good procedures to control debris and rubbish from construction. They wouldn’t just
Black rubbish bags left on Beach Road after the typhoons
throw rubbish out on the street.” Fung’s office said it has been putting pressure on the government to step up cleaning efforts and increase patrols. “We have also been calling for cameras to be installed in problematic areas,” it said. “We recently got some positive feedback whereby the Government has agreed to install two cameras on a trial basis, one of which will be installed in the Bays Area by the Rubbish Collection Point near Shouson Hill Road. Once that trial is deemed a success, we will push the Government to install more cameras in the
district. We constantly report to the FEHD the problematic areas, and have them clean-up as soon as possible.” Anyone who has spotted an incident of fly tipping is encouraged to call the Environmental Protection Department (EPD) Hotline at 2838 3111 or the relevant regional office. Alternatively, they can fill out a form on EPD website and fax to 2838 3111 or the relevant Regional Office. Contact information for district councillors can be found at districtcouncils.gov.hk
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health & beauty
THINK PINK October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Jai Rane and Catharina Cheung speak to three individuals—including a male breast cancer patient—each of whom is fighting breast cancer in their own way
Meditation session at Maggie’s Cancer Caring Centre
Sally Lo CEO and founder Hong Kong Cancer Fund Tell me about the Pinky Promise Campaign. Hopefully, it will attract a younger audience to be more cancer aware—mainly women aged 30-ish who may not feel old enough to be worrying about cancer. Education in schools is also extremely important—there are children as young as 10 experiencing cancer in their families. When I started 30 years ago, the average age of breast cancer patients was 62-65. Now it’s in the 40s. Many clients are teenagers. We just started the ‘rainbow club’ for those aged 18 to early 30s. The majority of cases are found through self-examination. I want it to become an everyday habit for women as young as 18 to examine themselves in the shower. Breast cancer is very treatable in the early stages with a very high success rate, even if doesn’t make it any easier emotionally or physically. So check, check, check! How has the cancer fund developed? The importance of the psychosocial aspects of cancer care is globally accepted. The Hong Kong Cancer Fund has centres in every public hospital, and three new ones opening this year. People can
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drop in for a chat and a cup of tea. We try to boost survivors’ confidence by providing coping skills to deal with side effects such as lymphedema, which can begin as much as five years after surgery. Women feeling the loss of breasts tend to withdraw into themselves. We help them to reinstate a sense of pride, control and confidence through group activities (from singing to magic), exercise and meeting past survivors, who bring a contagious positivity.
[The average age of breast cancer patients] is now in the 40s
People can also have big problems getting back to the workplace and keeping their jobs. We are trying to educate corporates to take responsibility—survivors may experience fatigue but they are the same people they were before their cancer experience. We’re working with the hospital authority referral system so that in such cases doctors can refer clients to organisations that can help with psychosocial aspects of recovery.
What do you hope to see in the future? Ideally, there will be a future without cancer. But for now, I would like to see more cost-effective ways of treating cancer. Lots of clients relapse and drugs are very expensive. I know, because both my husband and my housekeeper were diagnosed with cancer. I would like to see more people with insurance—affordable insurance— and less waiting time at clinics and hospitals. The health system in Hong Kong is extremely good but in many areas, you have to pay for screening after the first five years. What have you learned from your experience? I have been doing this for 30 years, and in the community for 50. It energises me. I have learned from people’s courage; I meet heroes every day. But we get lots of calls saying patients have been diagnosed with cancer and are counting down the days. They never stop to think they can be in the percentage that survives. Part of our mission is to better communicate doctors’ diagnoses because the majority of patients have very healthy lives—there is hope. For more information on Hong Kong Cancer Fund, visit cancer-fund.org
pinky promise Jane Ng Nurse, Maggie’s Cancer Caring Centre Tell me about yourself. I am a registered oncology nurse. I joined Maggie’s two years ago, after working in hospitals in Hong Kong for over 15 years. I’m the mother of three young children. I love swimming and watching Korean romance movies in my free time. How can people monitor their breast health? In Hong Kong, if you’re a woman over 20, you should be checking your breasts monthly, seven to 10 days after your period (if you’ve not yet been through menopause). Check if the skin looks normal, if the size and shape of the breasts are comparable, if there’s any crusting, ulcers, wetness, or inversion of the nipple. In the shower, raise your left hand and use the middle three fingers of the opposite hand to check the left breast, palpate the body from the armpit area to the nipple and overside to look for lumps, thickness, and pain not related to the monthly cycle. It only takes five minutes. The earlier you detect abnormalities the better the chance of recovery. According to the Hong Kong Cancer Registry, if detected early there is a 97.5% chance of recovery for Stage 1 cancer patients, but this drops to 19.3% for Stage 4 patients. It’s so easy, please check! What are the common misconceptions? Many patients ignore their symptoms. Because there is no pain, they don’t see a need to visit the doctor. I once met a patient who had a small abnormality. She needed an operation, chemotherapy and radiotherapy, but she was afraid of the side-effects, that she would lose her hair and look weak. Instead of taking her doctor’s advice, she went with a friend’s recommendation of alternative treatment that promised to be painless and not to affect her appearance. A year later, she visited the doctor again and discovered that the tumour had grown. He told her that if she didn’t act immediately the cancer could spread to other parts of her body. She came [to Maggie’s] in a very anxious state. I told her to face the treatment and referred her to our psychological counselling. Today she is rehabilitating and participating in our centre’s activities—she has a new life. Early detection is so important. You must go to the doctor. How important is a psychologically positive outlook to the recovery process? Once they find out they have cancer, patients feel so fearful. Alone at home, their imaginations can run away with them, breeding more fear and anxiety.
What’s on during Breast Cancer Awareness Month Show your support at these events around the city.
UNTIL OCT 31 Shop for Pink
Over 20 brands including Calvin Klein, Pandora, and Pizza Express are supporting HK Cancer Fund’s Pink Revolution with exclusive offers covering fashion, jewellery, lifestyle, beauty and dining throughout October. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to support Hong Kong Cancer Fund’s free breast cancer services.
UNTIL NOV 30 Pink Desserts
Indulge your sweet tooth in this charity culinary event. Hong Kong dessert houses are cooking up some exclusive desserts to support the Hong Kong Hereditary Breast Cancer Family Registry. Participating dessert places include Back Bar, Aberdeen Street Social, 208 Duecento Otto, Jimmy’s Kitchen (Central), The Royal Garden, AMMO Hong Kong, Jouer, and Luna Cake amongst others.
OCT 11
Pink Day at the Prudential Hong Kong Tennis Open Dress in pink and support breast health during the Tennis Open. Limited tickets. All proceeds go to the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation. Call 3143 7311 for further details. Victoria Park Tennis Stadium, Causeway Bay
between the Peak Galleria and the Peak Tower). Open to all aged 3 and above but participants under 13 must be accompanied by adults. Minimum donation required per participant. Don’t forget to dress in pink. Enrol online at hkcf.org/pinkwalk/en before midnight October 8.
OCT 27
Dress Pink day Wear pink—it could be a pair of socks or an entire outfit. All participants are encouraged to donate $120 or more to sponsor a Pink Recovery Pack for cancer patients who have just undergone surgery. Each pack contains items to help with the post-surgery healing process including a temporary breast prosthesis. You can raise money online as a group, an organisation, or individual; all funds will go directly towards Hong Kong Cancer Fund’s free breast cancer care services for patients and their families. Visit pink.cancer-fund.org
DEC 3
Pink Heels Race
OCT 21
Don a pair of pink heels and run for charity at Stanley’s annual race in aid of breast cancer awareness. There is also a Pink 5K Run in the morning (10.30-11.30am) for those looking for a bigger challenge. 12.30-3.30pm, Stanley Main Street. Enrol by November 9 at pinkheels.hk
In support of Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation. Open to the public, all levels welcome. To reserve your mat contact any Pure Yoga Studio. A minimum donation of $300 is required upon registration; preregistration is required. All donations go to HKBCF. 2-4pm, The Centrium, pure-yoga. com
Breast cancer is the most common form of cancer affecting women in Hong Kong. It is estimated that 1 in 16 women in Hong Kong are at risk of developing breast cancer. Though rare, approximately 1 in 1,000 men worldwide contract breast cancer too.
Karma Yoga: Vinyasa Flow with Pure Yoga teachers Wendy, Shoko & Lizz
OCT 22
Pink Walk for Breast Health Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation’s flagship event. Gather your family, friends, and colleagues for a 3.5km fundraising walk around The Peak. 8:15am-1pm. Meet at the Peak Road Garden (the open space
The ongoing operation of Hong Kong Cancer Fund’s free support services relies heavily on funding. To make a monthly donation of $100 or find out more about the Pink Revolution see cancer-fund.org For anyone affected by cancer, the Hong Kong Cancer Fund hotline is 3667 3000.
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health & beauty
Chatting to an elderly patient
At Maggie’s, we have various services to help conquer this fear: social workers, psychologists, patient support groups, caregiver support groups, medical and nutritional talks, beauty classes, meditation, a choir, and so many different courses. Here, patients can meet people, it’s cosy, there’s something going on every day. They begin to feel calm and develop the confidence necessary to face the disease. We also introduce experienced cancer patients to people who are still in the early part of their cancer journey.
Maggie’s doesn’t require any registration. Patients can just come in and sit down for a chat
What are the biggest challenges facing cancer patients in Hong Kong? I wish there were more spaces for cancer patients and their families like Maggie’s. Maggie’s doesn’t require any registration. Patients can just come in and sit down for a chat after a chemo session or a doctor’s appointment. Also, at Maggie’s I’m not as restricted as I would be in a hospital. I can make decisions flexibly and get to know patients so that they trust me. Treatment in a hospital can be very hurried, often nurses don’t have the time to build such rapport. I wish hospitals were more like this, but it would be very hard. I also hope that we can educate more people about prevention, self-checking and screening. Many girls don’t know how to check.
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Can you recall any cases that touched you deeply? I remember a patient who’d had a total mastectomy. After the operation and reconstruction, she came here seeking advice because her wound was so painful. Every day she would cry. Her psychological condition was more serious than the actual wound. One day, her husband came to me and said she had attempted suicide because she could not control her feelings of hopelessness. He wanted me to talk to her. She was feeling guilty because she knew her husband loved her and that she shouldn’t give up, but she found it very difficult to cope. I told her not to be afraid, that given time she would be able to adjust. After a series of sessions with our psychiatrist, she has her depression under control and is going to work again. She realized that ending her life under such pressure was not worth it. I’m very happy to see her recovering. Maggie’s Cancer Caring Centre is located in Tuen Mun Hospital. It offers free cancer support services to anyone diagnosed with cancer, their family members, friends, and carers. maggiescentre.org.hk
Yao Hing Tai Male breast cancer survivor Tell me about yourself. I am married with two sons. I used to have many interests, like drinking beer and singing, but I don’t indulge in these anymore because I want to recuperate in a calmer environment. I’ve also changed occupations; I used to deliver industrial raw materials, mostly high-risk substances like cyanide, industrial strength bleach, corrosive acid and sulphur. Maybe constant contact with chemicals has been a factor in my health problems, but doctors haven’t been able to give conclusive affirmation.
When were you diagnosed? I’ve had cancer for about six years. It never even occurred to me that men could get breast cancer. I started feeling pain about two years ago. I went to the doctor and was told the odds of breast cancer were very slim. But after the initial examination, they referred me to a hospital. I was given fast track access and seen within two months. I had an ultrasound and was referred to a private hospital for CT scans and a biopsy. The results came back positive; I was diagnosed with Stage 2A breast cancer. What went through your mind? I was in shock. Could I have prevented it? I didn’t dare to think too deeply about it because the threat of death was too near. The nurses consoled me before the surgery and explained what would happen afterwards. I was worried I would be hooked up to tubes for a long time, but they explained that they normally stop wound draining around five days after the operation. In fact, I had my wound drains in for two months, and had to manually be drained about five times afterwards. Perhaps the healing process is different for men and women. I started the first round of chemotherapy a little over a month after surgery. How did you feel during chemotherapy? The first round of chemotherapy was terrible, but I was still quite energetic and exercising. By the second round I was running a fever, perhaps because I didn’t take precautions like wearing face masks. I spent a week in Tuen Mun Hospital. That was when I started feeling like I might not make it. While I was there, five other patients passed away. I felt helpless. The first ten days of each round were the worst—I would be so tired that I would sleep all day. By the time I got to my fourth round of chemo, I was dragging myself through the days. I couldn’t leave the house. Two weeks after I
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health & beauty finished the round, I started going to the beach by myself daily. I’d go to the park in Tin Shui Wai and listen to music to soothe my emotions. The Chinese often say “men can shed blood but never shed tears”, but between my fourth and fifth rounds of chemotherapy, I felt so alone in my battle that I would weep. I didn’t understand why I had to suffer so much, or why I had to walk this path by myself. What was it like to be a man going through this experience? As a male patient, breast cancer is a very solitary experience. I tried connecting with some female patients who had started treatment around the same time as me, but the response was quite cold. I was told that it would be uncomfortable for the women if a man was to be included in their circles and Whatsapp chat groups, because they wouldn’t be able to openly express themselves. So I didn’t have the support system that the ladies did. I tried to find other male patients with breast cancer, but it was close to impossible.
As a male patient, breast cancer is a very solitary experience
Where did you find support? Through sheer hard headedness, I eventually managed to establish a rapport with a couple of other women during treatment. I then went to Maggie’s. They had a support group in which we could openly discuss and learn about breast cancer, without being judged. It was thanks to that programme that I came out of my shell, and stopped being uncomfortable with sharing my cancer experience. I also made friends with a large group of female breast cancer patients. They really helped me when I was at my lowest. Other male cancer patients were a small comfort, but in the end our battles were different, and we couldn’t fully understand each other’s struggles. Maggie’s has brought me friends who understand breast cancer and have shown me concern and support through my treatment—it was a real confidence boost and my emotional state improved with time. What happened after your chemotherapy? I had to take hormone medication and I was just aching all over. I didn’t have any strength for the first month. My extremities were swollen with water retention, I had constant pins and needles and trouble sleeping. Still, I insisted on walking
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Gathering in the kitchen area at Maggie’s
five kilometres each day, especially uphill to train my breathing. After half a year, I had recovered around 80% of my body strength, and returned to the workforce. I have found my place in society again, and I get on well with my colleagues. Having an income makes me feel a bit more secure—my medical expenses are substantial: $7,000-8,000 every month. Now, I take herbal supplements and eat three pieces of fruit per day: a banana in the morning, an orange in the afternoon and an apple at night. How are you now? Last November, I finished my final round of electro capacitive therapy. I have been in partial remission for almost a year. The most important part of recovery has been keeping busy. It has kept my mind off my illness, helped with strength training and energised me. I’ve been told my complexion has improved, my hair has grown back, and my friends joke that I’m more handsome than the month before. I’m planning on holidaying abroad, especially in mainland China. There are so many beautiful places that I would love to see. When I think about it, I suppose I’ve had it fairly easy. I have heard of many cases where the cancer has spread to other organs, and I cannot imagine how tough it must be to go through several courses of treatment. Do you worry about relapse? I would rather focus on living well right now than worrying about what might happen—our fates are all predestined anyway. This attitude has made me feel better about everything. I’m already 60, and I don’t have that many regrets apart from wishing to see my sons married.
What would you say to someone who has been diagnosed with breast cancer? Don’t panic. Focus on early diagnosis and don’t just place your hope in miracles. Trust the doctors who are here to help you, and believe that you can fight the cancer. Stay positive because your mental and emotional outlook plays a large part in recovery. Don’t neglect your body; get enough sleep and exercise, eat foods that are good for you. There is no need to be sad; we all die eventually, and if you have cancer you should live even more happily and vicariously. Don’t let the illness bind you.
The people I’ve met at Maggie’s are invaluable to me
Is there anything you’d like to add? The thing with male breast cancer patients is, we are shy about it. I was embarrassed to tell my friends about exactly what type of cancer I had; when asked I would just say, “Try guessing!”. But my friends were supportive regardless. I still have never met another male breast cancer patient, but the people I’ve met at Maggie’s are invaluable to me. Less than 1% of all breast cancer occurs in men. Because it is so rare and often underrepresented, it is often the case that by the time male patients are diagnosed, they are already in the later stages of cancer. For more information, visit breastcancer.org
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eating
Henry Kwan with his new menu
TRANSITION After 23 years, Stanley restaurant Lucy’s is now Henry’s... Catharina Cheung speaks to the new owner
T
he minute I stepped into Henry’s and plopped down onto one of the sofas, I felt I’d left Hong Kong far behind. The orange toned hues and wooden furnishings ooze Mediterranean vibes. It is warm, simple and cosy. Stanley residents and regular patrons of Lucy’s restaurant will know exactly what I’m describing. British born Lucy Humbert moved to Hong Kong in 1988 and opened her eponymous restaurant in September 1994 but, after 23 years of business, decided to close its doors in July this year and moved back to the UK to be with her daughter on her educational journey. Just before closure plans were finalised, one of her former chefs, Henry Kwan, stepped in with an offer to take over the reigns. Hence, Lucy’s is now Henry’s, and will continue to fill the bellies of diners in Stanley with its well-loved dishes. Henry, a soft-spoken sort with a gentle smile, was among the first batch of Lucy’s staff. He started out as a chef in 1988 at
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Miramar Hotel (now known as the Mira Hotel) for approximately a decade and, after leaving Lucy’s, eventually opened his own restaurant Onion in Causeway Bay. Unfortunately, Onion’s location on the upper floor of a building meant zero passing foot traffic and made it difficult for customers to reach via the single lift, so the business did not do as well as expected. “I remember having to go downstairs myself to bring customers up. Eventually we had to self-evaluate what exactly was going wrong, why customers who made bookings ended up cancelling even though we lowered our prices,” Henry reminisces. And the conclusion? He shrugs, “I think it’s really only younger guests who are willing to wait out in the streets for half an hour at a time to get seated. If it’s an older person, they’re not going to feel that the wait is worthwhile, regardless of the restaurant quality.” When Henry got wind of the fact that Lucy’s was winding down, he approached
Henry with his wife Ines (left), and Lucy Humbert
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eating
Interior of Henry’s
Humbert with an offer. He knew the business was struggling, and that the overall economy was on a general downward trend, but felt that money should not be viewed as the be-all and end-all. “More important was the happiness I felt working here—I just wanted to retain that feeling of being a family in the workplace,” he says. Apart from one young lad who used to work with Henry at Onion, the staff at Henry’s are still mostly the old team from Lucy’s era. Theirs has always been a small team, and they share a bond from years of working closely together. One member, now in his 70s, still regularly pops in a few days each week to work part time. In such a tight-knit workplace, Henry sees his return as a homecoming. Henry’s greatest satisfaction is seeing his customers finishing everything on their plates, a clear sign that they have genuinely enjoyed his creations. Asked if he might take the restaurant in a new culinary or stylistic direction, Henry emphatically shakes his head. Claiming himself to be old and sentimental, he gushes, “the very reason I took over this business was because we cherished the warm vibe that it has always offered. It would be wrong of me to transform
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it into one of those places you’d see along the seafront; it’d just be any other old place then.” Having worked in several other corporations since his time at Lucy’s, Henry admits that his cooking methods and style have evolved, but in order to refamiliarise himself, he spent a week at the restaurant with Lucy before she left for the UK.
I brought my wife here on our very first date years and years ago
He brings out folders upon folders of recipes, which the chefs all have to follow exactly. This consistency has secured Lucy’s a place in the heart of many Stanley locals, and for Henry, retaining the original flavours for these regular customers is key—“A wonton noodle shop can’t suddenly switch to selling congee and expect to retain its customers!” he quips. Of course, Henry has creations of his own that he is eager to showcase. But for now, the plan is to test the waters and see how readily customers are willing to accept small changes. For instance, they will start jazzing up their dish presentations with syrup calligraphy and drawings—just a touch of Insta-worthy modernity to bring to a more traditional business. A selection of Henry’s personal
dishes will be on the specials menu, and also available for significant events. Permanent menu status will be conferred if they prove popular. One such dish is the Spanish Ibérico suckling pig, currently hidden among the specials, and is only available by pre-ordering, lest it lose its taste and crispy texture. Henry also recommends his favourite dishes, which have been on Lucy’s menu since its opening 23 years ago. The salmon fish cakes, spinach souffle, and pecan pudding are well-loved by regulars. Also worth looking out for are seasonal specials like roast turkey over Christmas. There are also plans for more community involvement, such as catering for events and charities, and seasonal events for Halloween and Easter. Despite some setbacks in transferring the food and beverage licence, Henry’s restaurant has officially changed owners as of August 3, and everything else is on track for the name to be emblazoned across the restaurant to be changed to ‘Henry’s’ by the start of October. As the interview wraps up, Henry gazes around the restaurant and points out a table tucked in a cosy corner. “I brought my wife here on our very first date years and years ago; that was the table we sat at.” Truly an establishment with lots of memories for both Stanley residents and Henry himself, it comes as a relief that others will still be able to experience the same homey vibes and comfort food that has earned this restaurant a solid fanbase. And although he still speaks fondly of Onion, I think Henry Kwan couldn’t be happier to be back.
sponsored feature
ONE ISLAND SOUTH Head down and discover a few of Southside’s hidden gems The Golden Monkey This food court-cum-market concept is a modern take on classic food from across Southeast Asia. Thanks to Golden Monkey’s partnership with Pho Bar, you can tuck into the latter’s delicious pho and snacks, or head over to the Garden Bar, which serves madeto-order salads with Southeast Asian flavours. Signature dishes include Lemongrass Chicken with Yellow Curry, Vietnamese Honey Glazed Pork and Pad Ka Prao (Thai basil chicken). Shop G08
Sensory Zero Like bees to nectar, coffee lovers flock to Sensory Zero for its artisan coffee—roasted on location—and other speciality drinks, like hot homemade ginger tea and rose oolong tea Champagne. Other must-tries include the All-day Breakfast, Pork Floss Baguette and TripleDecker Kabayaki Eel Rice, perfect as the weather cools down. The space has recently also become a hangout for MMA fighters, after the launch of Sensory Fight Club, Hong Kong’s first fitness and MMA fight club inside a cafe. The club offers a combination of mixed martial art classes and healthy meals to help Southsiders keep fighting fit. Shop G01, 2511 6011
MUM veggie + coffee + sweet
Pizza Express
This cosy, vegetarian café is popular with Southsiders for its fresh and tasty veggie delights, each with its own Asian twist. Great if you need a bite to eat and a quiet place to get some work done too! Shop G07, 2115 3348
This old favourite doesn’t disappoint and is a great place for family dining. Feast on pizzas, pastas and salads, including the Beyond Chicken and Kale Pesto pizza, launched this Autumn. The Piccolo menu for little ones is served with drawing pens and games to stimulate their creativity—and also give you some time off to eat! Shop G03, 3585 8598
Chopsticks Fork n Knife Head to this chic and relaxing dining space for its refreshing and unique drinks, like Butterfly Pea Lemon Soda. It also has a fully curated menu of signature dishes inspired by Chinese, European, Korean and Japanese cuisines. The Cantonese Poached Chicken and Onsen Egg Pasta are particularly popular. Shop 110, 2110 3699
GCX Visit this all-in-one café, restaurant and Italian grocery store and discover all kinds of fresh ingredients for home cooking, from various cheeses, to cold meats, sauces, seasonings, pastas, antipasti, and Italian wine. Oh, and they have the widest choice of olive oil in Hong Kong. Bellisimo! Shop G09, 2528 0772
Bread & Bistro The smell of freshly baked bread wafting out onto the street from this Japanese bakery café is more than enough to tempt passers by. Think Japanese milk bread, croissants, muffin, baguettes, pumpernickel and more—made using Japanese flour and French butter. Also enjoy the artisan gelato by 2/3 Dolci in store. Shop G06, 3426 9883
One Island South 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang MTR Wong Chuk Hang Station, Exit A2 Parking available via Yip Fat Street Entrance. Enjoy two hours of free parking with a spend of $200 on weekdays after 6pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays (one hour on weekdays before 6pm)
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eating
NIBBLES News from the dining scene
Top chefs unite to #CookForSyria Eight of Hong Kong’s top chefs are uniting to support UNICEF’s work for children in Syria, by creating an eight-course Syrian inspired feast. The chefs include Nathan Green from Rhoda, Nicholas Chew from Serge et le Phoque, Peggy Chan from Grassroots Pantry, Agustin Balbi from Haku, and more. There will also be free flow drinks, a charity auction, and a raffle. Hosted at Beef & Liberty, tickets to the charity banquet on October 26 are priced at $1,200 per head. Proceeds will go to the Hong Kong Committee for UNICEF to aid children
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affected by the humanitarian crisis in Syria. Search ‘#cookforsyria’ on eventbrite.hk to book tickets, or visit cookforsyria.com
Diwali treats at Jashan Jashan has launched a selection of sweets with which to celebrate Diwali—the festival of light—and the beginning of the Hindu New Year. Spanning five days between October and December, Diwali or Deepavali is one of the most important festivals on the Hindu calendar. In addition to using traditional ingredients such as almonds, cashews, pistachios and coconut, Jashan’s varieties also include raisins, chocolate chips and marzipan. The Diwali sweets, or mithai, come in four different packages. Prices range from $200 to $350. To place an order, phone 9201 4775 or email terry@uhg.hk with at least four days notice. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, jashan.com.hk
Buy One Get One Free at Cafe Deco Cafe Deco Group presents a range of BOGOF promotions for main courses, set lunches and drinks in different areas of the city. The participating outlets include all branches of Beerliner German Bar & Restaurant, Cafe Deco, Peak Cafe Bar, Pickled Pelican, Cafe Deco Pizzeria, FAUCHON Paris Le Café, The Boathouse, and all branches of Stormies. Each of these chains has its own exclusive dishes in the offer. For instance, Cafe Deco Pizzeria (Sheung Wan) is offering choices such as Char Siu Pizza, Japanese Miso Cod Pizza, and Char-grilled U.S. Prime Ribeye for free with the purchase of another main course. Venues across Hong Kong. For full offer details from all branches, visit cafedecogroup.com.
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HK adventures
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Yu Lan Festival
E ac h mon l Stel ocal ar th, ti la S a ne o ex st plor wc e o the rner of s city
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cover story
SOUTH ISLAND ART DAY Jai Rane finds out what not to miss
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he South Island Cultural District (SICD) is holding its bi-annual South Island Art Day on October 14. Visitors will be treated to a showcase of contemporary art, dance, and music by some of Hong Kong’s most promising local and international artists—the SICD is unique for its concentration of large industrial gallery spaces in the Tin Wan, Aberdeen, and Wong Chuk Hang neighbourhoods. There will be free food and drink as well as a Kids Corner to keep the tots busy. Free shuttle buses operate throughout event and you can come and go as you please, but be sure to check out the district on foot as the alleyways are riddled with hidden murals. We’ve rounded up some of the most exciting artists and exhibits on show.
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IN CONVERSATION WITH... Dominique Perregaux
SICD founder and owner of Art Statements
What do you look for in art? Contemporary art has to have depth of thought. It must be challenging but it must also have a visual impact. I am bored of art that is boring. When contemporary artists like Duchamp really broke the code of art they needed to destructure everything—it was very exciting at the time but it’s been done for the past 40 years now. There is now a growing need for top artists to reconnect to the public and to resolve this issue of appearing too pseudo-intellectual, too conceptual, too minimalist. Certainly, these are trends that have brought contemporary art to where it is today, but I like to promote art that facilitates this reconnection.
What is unique about Hong Kong’s contemporary art scene? That it almost doesn’t exist! There are almost no institutions for it. Hong Kong may call itself ‘Asia’s World City’ but it is not Tokyo, Berlin, London, or Paris—we lack even a contemporary art museum. We have Art Basel and White Cube but the lack of art museums is very strange. We have the Heritage Museum but it is not contemporary art. Instead, people come to Hong Kong because it is a free port, great for trading art and auctions. Thus, the city is becoming the trading art hub of Asia, not the cultural art hub. Without museums, it is difficult for people to educate themselves in art. M+, the new museum coming to West Kowloon, is very good but it’s the only one. Meanwhile, it’s galleries who are promoting and educating people about art. If we don’t do it nobody will. That’s why the
art attack
What do you think is the future of SICD? This is a ‘cultural’ district, not an art district— we acknowledged from the start that there are many dance studios here, fashion spaces, photographers, etc... The aim is to have many chapters: the contemporary art gallery chapter, the photo studio chapter, the dance studio chapter, the interior design chapter and so forth. Every month, I’d like each chapter to have a special day or event. SICD chooses its members very carefully. Our members are looking to bring culture first.
It took a very long time for Hong Kong to think itself comfortable and wealthy enough to think about art
Why does Hong Kong have so few contemporary art museums? There are two reasons. I believe that when the British came to Hong Kong in 1849 they didn’t care much about the place. It was more about natural resources and Hong Kong’s usefulness as a trading hub. They didn’t develop it the way the Portuguese developed Macau, with theatres, music houses, and culture. Another reason has to do with wealth. The people who made Hong Kong what it is today were the Chinese migrants who arrived in the 50s and 60s fleeing hunger and communism. For them at that moment, art was a luxury and they
Yoshitaka Amano
were focused on survival, which always comes first. It took a very long time for Hong Kong to think itself comfortable and wealthy enough to think about art.
How has SICD grown to fill this gap in the city’s art scene? Before we started, most of the art galleries were in Central. But they were so overshadowed by everything else going on there that nobody ever thought to call it the ‘art district’. Over the past few years, galleries have been moving here from Central and from overseas. We are establishing something new for Hong Kong—a cultural district like Chelsea in New York, 798 in Beijing, or Gillman Barracks in Singapore. I think Wong Chuk Hang is perfect for this—there’s one big street so it’s easy to navigate, and it’s very accessible while also being in a distinct neighbourhood. We are trying to bring as many people as possible to art. We do newsletters every month and two art days annually, though we still don’t have a corporate sponsor. When we moved here (before the MTR) we were only three galleries; now we are 26. And it’s not just us—there is a huge dynamic emerging in the district, with redevelopment to match.
What can people expect from Art Day? The vibe will be great, similar to a concert like Clockenflap. This year we are introducing wristbands so there can be a greater sense of community. We are expecting over 5,000 visitors and it’s a Saturday, so we’ve made sure there is a (free) Kids’ Corner at Ovolo Hotel where art students will help kids to make things with paper, crayons, googly eye stickers, etc… Everybody is welcome!
3 Generations of Japanese Anime Artists This group exhibition featuring father-son duo Yoshitaka and Takeru Amano, and 70s minimalist icon Yuichi Sugai explores the development of the postmodern “Japanese Pop Art” movement. Sugai’s mixed-media paintings reflect on his experiences growing up in the 50s and 60s when Japan was heavily influenced by American culture. Yoshitaka Amano, considered one of the fathers of Anime, is showcasing a series of striking paintings on aluminum. His son, Takeru Amano of Final Fantasy, and Gatchaman-G Force fame rounds of the exhibition, one of a new generation of Japanese artists who are re-actualizing Anime today. Art Statements, Factory D, 8/F, 65 Wong Chuk Hang Road, artstatements.com
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cover story IN CONVERSATION WITH... Claire Lee Artist
What inspires you about bison? When I first saw them in person I felt an atmosphere of majesty, earnestness, tenderness and peace around them, an impression of immensity that is difficult to express. They are beautiful animals filled with a calm and primitive energy. I noticed how people walking past would stand in front of a bison and just stare for a long time without a word. I believe through bison we can connect with the intimate feelings inside ourselves. When I read about them and their painful history of survival I realised that what spoke to me was their simultaneous strength and vulnerability. To me, it reflects the position in which I see people in the midst of the world’s conflicts. From watching bison I see the human condition. Seeing them in person was a spiritual experience that touched me—a deep feeling of sorrow and compassion came over me when I recognized our souls’ reflection in these beautiful beasts. What attracts you to ink drawings? Its delicate nature—it is thin, sophisticated, pure, yet hard to control. It doesn’t give much time for manipulation and hence it usually requires a strong instinct. As an artist, I am more drawn to deliver energy and feelings rather than to capture the realistic. I like to let my brush and ink fly and respond to the paper in split seconds and work with the accidental surprises.
What kind of art appeals to you? My attention is always drawn to body movement. That is why I enjoy watching dancers move. Languages are efficient but body movement can instantly warm a soul or break your heart. Body language comes before the first word is uttered. Skin is the most primitive medium to express our soul. The power of it has never changed.
The Awakening CHARBON art space is celebrating its two-year anniversary with ‘The Awakening’, a solo exhibition by local artist and poet Claire Lee (clairelee. hk). Based in Hong Kong and the UK, Hong Kong Art School alumna Claire Lee is known for her drawings, paintings and mixed media work dealing with themes of psychological struggle and perseverance. She has been featured in museum exhibitions in the United States, Japan, and Taipei as well as in numerous galleries in Hong Kong. ‘The Awakening’ expresses the inner turmoil of the bison in a series of ink and bitumen drawings, photographs and poems. Lee portrays a search for spiritual awakening inspired by the bison’s simultaneous power and vulnerability. The exhibit opens on Art Day but runs until November 11. The programme for Art Day includes a talk by curator Lalie Choffel at 12.30pm, two poetry reading sessions at 4pm and 7pm and a didgeridoo performance at 6.30pm. Charbon Art Space, Unit B, 8/F, Sing Tek Factory Building, 44 Wong Chuk Hang Road, charbonartspace.com
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IN CONVERSATION WITH... Greer Howland Smith Artist
Describe your work. I am focussed on social media and how people present themselves, their belongings and their lives on a digital plane. I am interested in the idea that, while social media has made it easier for people to communicate with one another, the content of this communication—my diet, my habitat, where I travel, how attractive/fertile I am, how much money I have—has not changed. As people increasingly document their lives through digital formats and devices they become used to viewing their histories and memories through visual grids and digital devices. One might, in the moment, think not how that moment actually feels but how it will look on social media. Future memories are now consciously constructed in the present. TechNomad is an interpretation of how these visual frames have been absorbed into my own psyche. Where do you find inspiration? I am inspired by the life that I lead here in Hong Kong and the energy of the forests and the mountain landscape. Being so far away from my family in the States, I rely on social media a lot to keep in touch with my nine siblings.
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cover story
Photo courtesy of Empty Gallery
My work is quite digital and often a visual representation of my phone and the people I am interacting with. I am fascinated by the way we leave behind these social media ghosts or time capsules over time. There is something jarring about being reminded of memories you do not necessarily want recovered—relationships that did not work out or the pet or relative that is no longer around years later—at the whim of some social media “feature”. I find the way phones record and preserve time very poetic. What does art mean to you? An interpretation of your current culture. I absorb everything around me and it somehow ends up on the canvas. My process is very spontaneous. I work really quickly and I don’t stop until I’m finished. What is special about the art scene here? You can still have a chance to make your own statement. In some cities it can be a little overwhelming because there are so many artists but here it’s still growing.
TechNomad This exhibition traces the artist’s personal journey connecting to home across three continents. Howland Smith has 15 years of experience in the art world and has exhibited in New York City, Edinburgh, New Orleans, Amsterdam, Boston, Glasgow, Belgrade, Los Angeles and Miami. Her ‘techno-schizophrenic’ style in TechNomad explores how technology transcends borders and time-zones, dealing with issues of family, motherhood, and feminism through the lens of tech culture. Greer Howland Smith Studio, Unit 1302, 13/F, Remex Centre, 42 Wong Chuk Hang Road, greerhowland.com
Toshio Matsumoto, For The Damaged Right Eye, 1968. 16mm transferred to video, multi projections, colour, sound by Akiyama Kuniharu, 13min., 4:3
IN CONVERSATION WITH... Alex Lou Director of The Empty Gallery
Tell me a bit about yourself. I studied art history and film history in the States. I have a long relationship with Hong Kong because I’m half Chinese—my dad moved back here when I was 11, and I’ve been back and forth between the States and Hong Kong since. How would you describe Empty Gallery? This is an artspace focussed on intermedia art, which refers to artistic practices that fall between genres and have some hybrid, multidisciplinary nature. We feature a lot of moving image, sound art and artists who combine these elements together. What kind of art appeals to you? The only rule I follow is that I don’t like to programme things that have been done elsewhere. I’m usually looking for people that haven’t had a chance to do a show in Hong Kong or to do a show with a real budget. Compared to other cities Hong Kong’s contemporary art scene is much smaller and there aren’t as many spaces showing things that are not immediately commercial. We hope to expose people here to new strains of art like experimental cinema or music. What other kinds of art would you like to see more of in Hong Kong? I would like to see more historic public exhibitions on things that happened in art after 1970. It’s a huge area of art history that is important for understanding contemporary art, but people
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here haven’t had the chance to see in person. For example, I don’t think we’ve ever had a museum showing post-minimalist sculpture. I think it is also important for galleries to have an eye for art history and to put together presentations of work that have curatorial merit and are not just presentations of goods for sale. Tell us about Toshio Matsumoto He’s a very interesting figure because he made these very short experimental films that haven’t been distributed or seen that much outside of Japan—unlike his contemporaries, he never left Japan so did not develop an international profile. Hopefully this will open people up to the presence of a figure who was historically important but has been somewhat forgotten.
Toshio Matsumoto: Everything Visible Is Empty Featuring the works of the late Toshio Matsumoto, Everything Visible Is Empty is a retrospective exhibition that examines shorts films and documentaries from the filmmaker’s most fertile creative period between 1960 and 1980. Best known for his landmark 1969 drama film A Funeral Parade of Roses, Matsumoto was a member of the Jikken-Kobo artist collective and one of the biggest figures of Japan’s post-war avant-garde art. Everything Visible Is Empty is running now through to November 18, and will feature newly restored versions of a number of Matsumoto’s rarely screened pieces including the documentaries Nishijin and Song of Stone, and Matsumoto’s groundbreaking expanded cinema work, For My Damaged Right Eye. The Empty Gallery, 19/F, Grand Marine Centre, 3 Yue Fung Street, Tin Wan. theemptygallery.com
art attack More Art Day highlights When Head and Body Unite An exhibition of new works by renowned Cambodian artist Leang Seckon. Seckon’s pieces are composed of found objects and media-textiles. They are saturated with images of traditional folklore, religious iconography, and the artist’s memories of growing up during the devastating Khmer Rouge regime. The exhibition will up until November 11. Rossi & Rossi, 3/F, Yally Industrial Building, 6 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang, rossirossi.com
∞
After working as a carpenter and seeing the amount of trees that are felled for human consumption, Kim Juntaek decided to redefine the meaning of value by incorporating “useless” items into his pieces. In ‘∞’ Kim combines abstract painting, sculpture and relief with items like scrap metal, leftover wood and coffee grounds. The unifying feature of his media is that they are not only symbols of consumption, but also the debris of consumptive acts. Artmia Studio, 6/B, Gee Chang Hong Centre, 65 Wong Chuk Hang Road, kimjintaek.com
Tree in Water by KONG Yuk Yee, Fatina, oil on canvas 100cm x 150cm
Azurite
Tale of the Wonderland
Created by a trio of alumnas from the Academy of Visual Art of Hong Kong Baptist University, Azurite presents a range of ink work, ceramics, and paintings. Dabie Chiu ’s work explores social and existential topics whilst Akina Lam’s work looks at the linguistic features of materials. Fatina Kong combines Chinese and Western paintings styles to give everyday scenery a surreal quality. ADC Artspace, 12/F, Genesis, 33-35 Wong Chuk Hang Road, artspace.hk
This group exhibition uses Carroll’s muchloved Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland as a basis to construct a narrative spanning 20 years in post-colonial Hong Kong. Exploring themes such as uncertainty, the collapse of reality, and identity displacement, this collaboration between up-and-coming local artists will enchant Alice fans. Blindspot Gallery, 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Road. blindspotgallery.com
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home & living
BEAN BURO The founding directors of design studio Bean Buro, Kenny Kinugasa-Tsui and Lorène Faure, show Jessie Yeung around a home they designed for a young family in Tai Tam
Tell me about yourselves and how Bean Buro was created. Kenny: I was born in Hong Kong, but I lived in the UK for almost 20 years. I studied architecture at The Bartlett School of Architecture (UCL). Lorène is French, was brought up in Paris and in London, and then studied at École Spéciale d’Architecture in Paris. Lorène: We’ve always loved Hong Kong as a multilayered cross-cultural city, hence we decided to bring our expertise to Hong Kong and set up Bean Buro in 2013. How did you become interested in design? Lorène: I am from an artistic family. During high school, I found myself good at both art and science, which was a great combination for architecture.
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Kenny: When I was seventeen I saw the original antique etchings of Carceri by Piranesi in the British Museum. I was astonished by how architecture could be experimented on through imaginary and atmospheric drawings, and decided to pursue it. What led you to design this home? The client came to us after seeing one of our previous projects online, and they very much liked that humanistic, calm aesthetic. What was your brief? Lorène: The clients are an expat couple with two children. The brief was to cater for the two generations: an elegant space for adults, while also being practical and fun for the children.
Kenny Kinugasa-Tsui & Lorene Faure
cool beans
we designed a movable acoustic fabric curtain that can seal off the study space if required.
Was it a collaborative process or were the clients hands-off? Kenny: We usually encourage our clients to take part in the design process as much as possible, because at the end of the day it’s meant to be their dream home. Throughout the project, we ran workshops at each design development stage and asked the clients to evaluate each design option. How did you design the apartment to suit your clients’ lifestyle? Lorène: The parents are city professionals with stressful jobs, so they need to come home and slow down from the city’s tempo. We created a foyer with a lowered ceiling and darker walls as a ‘decompression zone’, and an open kitchen for an open and connected effect across the apartment. To reduce light and noise pollution,
What’s your favourite thing in the apartment? Kenny: We love the ocean views, so we opened up the walls between rooms to let in more natural daylight. For example, the partition wall between the lounge and the kids’ room has a full height glass section. The two kids’ rooms can be also adjoined into one big play space—the corridor between the two rooms “disappears” with large sliding partitions. What’s the one thing every home should have? Lorène: A sense of calm. Living in Hong Kong can be very stressful and space is precious, so storage must be designed efficiently. However, we don’t believe in being purely minimalistic either, because often that can feel cold and overly stylistic. What’s your best advice in terms of interior design? Kenny: The client plays a big role in trusting the designer’s ability to add value to the space.
We’ve been lucky enough to work with clients who have embraced many of our ideas, and the trust must go both ways! Who are your biggest influences in terms of design? Lorène: In a way Kenny and I influence each other the most, as we are constantly inspiring and motivating each other. How would you describe your own personal style? Kenny: Both Lorene and I believe in immersing ourselves in our client’s brief, then creating narratives through the interpretation of site and contextual factors. Often that results in new ideas that were not initially in the brief. Any particularly memorable projects? Lorène: Each of our projects has been very special to us. Perhaps the most memorable experience from designing this home was seeing one of the children running around the newly completed apartment, exploring the hiding niches that we designed and playing peek-a-boo with the glass insertion in the partition walls.
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education
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Rebecca Simpson finds out how this school is facing up to the education revolution
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here’s been a lot of talk about ‘innovation’ in education in recent years. Educators across the globe are discussing the changes required to deliver a modern education and leading schools are evolving their offerings to match. These changes are often framed to us as technology-driven. More and more we hear about innovation labs, maker studios or technology centres in schools—impressive, modern additions that excite students and parents alike. It’s also fair to say that when I say ‘innovation’, you’re likely to think ‘technology’. It’s a natural association when much of the innovation in our world is driven by technology. We’re constantly learning about the latest and greatest tech advances like automation, robotics and so forth. However, it’s important to distinguish that innovation and technology are not interchangeable terms, especially when it comes to education. The leadership team at the Canadian International School (CDNIS) is well versed in innovation and technology, having delivered a tangible history of innovation since the school’s inception in the early 1990s. CDNIS was indeed the first Apple Distinguished School in the region, and it’s been a proud tech-savvy community for many years, with established one-to-one iPad and laptop programmes. This forward-thinking approach to technology is well supported by a resource called One Door, a service centre located at the school that helps students and parents manage the technologies embedded into school life. That support itself is innovative, but more about that later.
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Project Innovate The school has launched Project Innovate for the 2017-2018 school year. It’s a framework that aims to help students develop the skills and dispositions to be successful in an ever-changing world. “It’s about providing students with the opportunities they need to be future–ready,” says Helen Kelly, CDNIS Lower School principal. Kelly is a leading educator at CDNIS and one of the leadership team that has trained in Design Thinking and used its principles to craft this latest iteration in the school’s educational approach.
It’s about providing students with the opportunities they need to be future
Future-ready learning encompasses three pillars. Pillar One is the foundation skills of literacy, numeracy, science, information and communication technology and civic and cultural literacy. Next, the school adds Pillar Two, the 21st century competencies of collaboration, communication, creativity and critical thinking. Finally, Pillar Three covers character building: resilience, initiative, curiosity, empathy, leadership and adaptability.
Creating leaders At its heart, Project Innovate is about creating a new generation of leaders. As Kelly explains, “the World Economic Forum is referring to what it calls the Fourth Industrial Revolution, where there is going to be change beyond what we can possibly imagine. In order to be ready for that, our students need to have certain sets of skills, mindsets and dispositions that will enable them to cope with the world they’ll find when they leave school.” It’s a tough brief for modern educators— prepare a generation of young minds for a future we can’t yet comprehend. David Baird, CDNIS Head of School, muses on this role. “What jobs can we foresee five years from now? We have to create students with a willingness to be flexible. The jobs they may go into may not exist 15 years from now.”
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education He highlights the characteristics CDNIS is instilling into students via Project Innovate. “Adaptability, flexibility, being ready and not being afraid of challenges,” he says. He explains that students CDNIS will prepared to be “comfortable with an unstable economic environment.” “We’re looking to develop students into innovators,” says Kelly. “That means providing these future-ready skills and providing opportunities for hands-on learning, for creativity and developing critical thinking.” The pace of change in the future will be ever more swift than that which parents face today. “Not only will the jobs be different in 15 years times, but the jobs won’t stay the same five or 10 years later,” says Kelly. The ramifications of such fast-paced innovations will require students to be adaptable and ready for a lifetime of constant learning and career-change.
promote a natural culture of continuous learning and are a great inspiration to students.
Continuous education
The role of arts in innovation
CDNIS faculty are walking the talk of continuous education and inquisitiveness by constantly learning and evolving their own skills. The team has recently completed Design Thinking training with Stamford University’s d.school, a design centre that, among many other projects, is looking at provocative ways to evolve education. The faculty also has a group of teachers completing their Masters together. These initiatives help
The world has gone STEM (science, technology, engineering and maths) crazy in recent years. We see it everywhere and for very good reason – engagement in STEM subjects, specifically exposing and supporting young girls in these subjects, is important to our world. At CDNIS, the focus has always been on STEAM, that’s with an added ‘A’ for Arts. Tim Kaiser, CDNIS Upper School Principal explains,
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“there are so many great opportunities through the world of technology; but not necessarily ONLY through the world of technology; to create a new learning experience for our students and make them ready for the future.” At CDNIS, the arts is central to future-ready learning, so much so that faculty leaders driving resources like the Makers Centre originate as arts educators rather than technology leads. Additional training bolsters these educators with technological expertise but their passion lies firmly in the arts, and that makes for a very different approach.
open day Kaiser, an established CDNIS teacher, explains that creativity has always been celebrated at the school and notes it plays an important role in Project Innovate. In the lower years, creativity thrives through programmes like the primary years dance programme.
Space to innovate In our space-starved city, CDNIS is repurposing existing areas on campus to reflect new ways of learning implemented through Project Innovate. “To carry out Project Innovate, we’ve allocated areas with all the latest innovative tools so that students can go in and be exposed and not be afraid of technology,” says Baird. “To work with it and fail at it.” The experience of trying and failing is an important part of futureready learning. One example is the redesign of traditional corridors to become collaboration spaces for group projects or study. The new corridor features group seating facilities designed around whiteboards mounted on the walls. In these spaces, students can together on projects during their free time. The multi-purpose spaces along the corridor also offer modern standing desks and charging stations for technology, making them a go-to destination for students.
This year the students will also benefit from a new Maker Studio that offers multi-purpose use. This modern learning space offers an area for students of all ages and teachers of all subjects and specialities to explore and create. The classroom has wide benches for working, an incredible array of equipment from hydroponic kits to Lego and even ovens that the smallest of CDNIS students will be cooking up some delicious experiments in.
Support for parents If you’re reading this and having a secret panic about your own technological capabilities, you’re not alone. For parents who sit towards the analog end of today’s tech scale, the tech support of additional devices can feel overwhelming. Let’s face it, you wouldn’t be the first parent who’s struggled to connect the Apple TV. Never fear, no family gets left behind at the CDNIS, with a facility called One Door which works in a similar way to a Genius Bar at the Apple Store. It’s a one-stop shop of technical support for the CDNIS community. But of course the big question for all parents is how will these changes driven by Project Innovate benefit my child? “Our students are going to be creative and creative thinkers, they’re going to be exceptional communicators in a whole range of media.
They’re going to be able to think critically and solve problems. And they’re going to be able to work together in teams,” says Kelly. “They’re going to be resilient. They’ll be used to failing and picking themselves back up again. They’re going to take initiative, they’re going to lead. And, they’re going to be adaptable. It isn’t enough to go to University and just be clever, you need to be interesting as well. “The future is really exciting and we feel optimistic about it. It’s not something to fear.”
School Report
Established: 1991 Class size: 18-25 Curriculum: IB and OSSD Fees 2017/2018: $103,500-$187,100 Non refundable capital levy: $32,000 Address: 36 Nam Long Shan Road, Aberdeen Tel: 2525 7088
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big day out
THREE FATHOMS COVE Eric Ho explores the tranquil side of Sai Kung
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walk on the wild side
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Sham Chung
he bus stops at Pak Sha O Youth Hostel, which was opened in 1985 in an abandoned village school. The old classrooms, which have been transformed into a kitchen, common room and dormitory blocks, make a good base from which to explore the country park. From the hostel, walk 100 metres along Hoi Ha Road until you reach a signposted path to Pak Sha O. It’s a short walk to Pak Sha O, a restored Hakka village that feels lost in time. There are no longer any Hakka villagers living here; they left when the construction of the High Island Reservoir cut off the village’s water supply, ending its farming activities. The abandoned village seemed destined to crumble into disrepair, like so many others in Hong Kong’s rural areas, but its idyllic charms caught the eye of a group of expats who spent years renovating the traditional buildings and restoring the ancestral hall. During the first section of the hike, the trail gradually rises in altitude. You need to be aware of two forks in the road. The first comes as you approach Nam Shan Tung: take the path towards Lai Chi Chong. At the second fork, take the path to Sham Chung. At this point the hike becomes more challenging as the concrete paths are replaced by dirt trails that meander around large boulders,
squeeze through a narrow gully and over streams. Cross a small valley leading up towards She Shek Au. Take care in wet conditions as the trail and rocks can be slippery and there is a possibility of flash floods near the streams. The going becomes easier on the descent into Sham Chung, passing eerie abandoned houses. Unlike Pak Sha O, Sham Chung village did not attract any rescuers when its inhabitants left to seek better opportunities elsewhere, and many of the buildings are being reclaimed by nature. Up ahead the greenery opens up, revealing a large expanse of grassland and a small lake surrounded by wooded hills. On warmer days, groups of families and friends dot the grass, and kids ride bikes or kick balls in what must be one of the finest picnic spots in Hong Kong. You don’t have to bring your own food. A couple of houses near the lake operate as simple restaurants on weekends and holidays, when villagers return to sell drinks and noodles to hikers. Don’t expect any bargains, however: a bottle of Coke set us back $26.
How to get to Three Fathmons Cove • From Sai Kung Pier, take minibus 7 to the country park, alighting at Pak Sha O Youth Hostel, on Hoi Ha Road, a few stops before the end of the route – the driver will know where to stop if you tell him your destination. • Cars may not enter the country park without a permit, so if you’re planning to drive it is simpler to take a 25-minute taxi ride from Sai Kung town.
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big day out
Mind your step whilst crossing the streams
Sham Chung may be beautiful, but it is a far cry from its natural state. When the village was thriving, much of the land was converted to paddy fields. Once the villagers left, the forgotten fields transformed into a wetland teeming with wildlife, including rare animals like the brown fish owl and the Hong Kong paradise fish. But in 1999, developers earmarked the area for a golf course, draining the wetland and replacing it with grass, and destroying the thriving ecosystem in the process. The project was never approved, and Hong Kong lost one of its most important ecological sites for naught. Cross the meadow and follow the concrete path towards the pier, where a ferry calls twice a day on its way to Ma Liu Shui or Wong Shek Pier. Hop aboard if you’ve had enough, but the best is yet to come. The next section follows the coast of Three Fathoms Cove, skirting the rocky foreshore, mangroves and an area of abandoned farmland. Where the path runs next to the mangrove, look for crabs scurrying between the roots and jittery mudskippers keeping their eyes above water. At Yung Shue O village, the path turns into a single-track road. At the T-junction, turn right past the public toilet and continue along a catchwater, but take care as there are no pavements and, although the road is quiet, there are occasional cars. It’s a flat, shady walk, passing barbecue sites with fabulous views of the bay and its fish farms – particularly photogenic at golden hour as the sun dips behind Ma On Shan and the water turns amber – and up a final steep incline to Sai Sha Road. From here, you can catch bus 99 or 299X to Sai Kung Pier, or make a detour to see Hong Kong’s only ancient astronomical observatory. To find the old stone tower, turn right towards the car park, cross the road and walk up the steps under a wooden gateway marked Shui Long Wo. As well as the tower there are picnic tables, old stone terraces and a moon gate. This miniature replica of the Gaocheng Astronomical Observatory (built during the Yuan dynasty in eastern Dengfeng County, Henan), provides a gorgeous view back over Three Fathoms Cove.
Craving more awesome hikes? Discover all 12 hikes and the history of Sai Kung with our Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Hiking Guide. Order your copy at hongkongliving.com/shop with the promo code DISCOUNT10 to enjoy 10% off your purchase. Limited time only.
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interview
MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU Superintendent Timothy Worrall recalls 23 years as a second generation Hong Kong Police officer. By Raphael Blet
T
im Worrall stands on one of the force’s vessels. The marine police operates a fleet of 118 vessels and has over 2,200 men. Unlike most overseas police officers who grew-up in Britain, Worrall spent his childhood in Hong Kong. He is the son of a police officer and grandson of a mariner. “My grandfather, William Roy, came to Asia before the Second World War working on coastal trading vessels,” explains Worrall. “After the Japanese invasion of Hong Kong, he was interned in the Stanley Civilian Internment Camp. There, he met and later married my grandmother—her previous husband had been killed during the battle for Hong Kong whilst serving with the Hong Kong Volunteer Defence Corps, near Repulse Bay. My father was born in the camp in 1945. Upon the surrender of the
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I used to type out my reports on a typewriter using carbon copy paper
Japanese, they were all freed in August of the same year.” William Roy went on to work as Salvage Master and Master Mariner for the now defunct Taikoo Dockyards (Swire). The dockyard built Police Launches 1 and 2 and he oversaw their handover to the Police (his son would eventually have Police Launch 2 under his command as Divisional Commander of Marine
North Division). He later published his memoirs No Cure, No Pay: Memoirs of a China Sea Salvage Captain. Worrall’s father—William Richard—joined the police in 1967, months after the notorious Hong Kong riots. It took him two attempts to be accepted into the police, in between which he joined the British Army for a couple of years. Like his son, he also became a superintendent, but is now retired. “I grew-up seeing my father going to work and doing many different jobs with the Force, things I considered exciting. I formed boyhood dreams of joining myself and serving in the Tactical Unit, Emergency Unit and Small Boat Division,” he recalls. Soon after finishing his studies in the south of England, Worrall went through the recruitment process which was done in
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interview being a paramilitary organisation to focusing on public service. “When I first joined the police, I used to type out my reports on a typewriter using carbon copy paper! Now, we use the latest technology,” he says. “Also, I think that back in the 50’s and 60’s, it was a paramilitary organisation, there to keep Hong Kong stable, whereas it’s now all about service—thought we still have many internal security capabilities.”
It takes a certain kind of person to want to go on a boat in a typhoon! From left to right: Tim's father, Tim and Tim's grandfather onboard Police Launch 2 in the mid 1980s
Tim and daughter Charlotte
London. He joined the Royal Hong Kong Police (as it was then known) in 1994, and is the youngest overseas officer still serving in the (now) Hong Kong Police on the old overseas terms of service. At the time, the Hong Kong government distinguished local from overseas civil servants until it moved to a single contract model. But for Worrall, we should move away from classifying officers in regards to their origins or the way they have been recruited. He emphasizes the fact that all Hong Kong police officers are Hongkongers, regardless of their background. “There are many different nationalities serving in the Force. But all officers, no matter what their background or whether they are ‘overseas’, have a common thread: Hong Kong is their home,” he says. 20 years ago, on the night of June 30, 1947, Hong Kong’s sovereignty was transferred from Britain to China in what is now widely referred
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to as “the Handover”. This resulted in a number of symbolic changes, such as the police insignia being changed from the crown to the bauhinia. Asked about deeper changes to the Force, Worrall believes that it continues to serve Hong Kong as it always did. “Fundamentally, there is no change. Protect life and property, keep Hong Kong safe.”
We all share a common binding tie: Hong Kong is our home
However, on the overall development of the Force, Worrall notes major technological changes and an evolution of purpose, from
After serving in various land departments, Worrall followed in his father’s footsteps and joined the marine division where he has recently been made Superintendent. His new post as Divisional Commander of the Small Boat Division allows him to get out on patrol. Although the marine division is fully part of the police force, Worrall acknowledges that there are some idiosyncrasies. “Inspectors joining the marine division would have served on land before. Junior officers would later have the chance to go on land. There is no separation. The only thing you might say is that it takes a certain kind of person to want to go on a boat in a typhoon!” In addition to being a police officer, he is a part-time TV presenter. He presents the weekly RTHK show “Police Report”, updating members of public on crime trends and police work. He sees many similarities in being a police officer and a presenter. “Both roles require you to convey important messages to the public and engage them so that we can all work together to keep Hong Kong safe.” Worrall is also a father. His 20-year-old daughter is currently at university in the United Kingdom. Asked about whether she wishes to follow her family’s legacy, he says that he will support her regardless of her professional choices. “As with many professions, being a police officer is a calling, which may not appeal to everyone. I encourage my daughter to follow her dreams and her own calling. If that is to join the Force, I support her 100 per cent.” Still, Worrall is keen to extol the multitude of career and learning opportunities offered by the Force to potential new recruits. “A career with the Force is a career where no two days are the same. The only thing bigger than the challenges you face is the sense of reward you get when you help someone who needed you.”
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travel
48 hours in Taipei Shreena Patel heads on a city break to Taiwan’s capital
Did you know?
A
A temple in Jiufen
fter two years of checking Cathay Pacific fanfares at 8am every Tuesday morning, in August I finally pulled the trigger on a weekend trip
to Taipei. Colleagues and friends who have lived there or visited were quick to fill up my 48 hours with helpful recommendations of what to do, where to stay and—most importantly— where to eat. And so, with my carry-on packed and my expectations high, I took off just before 6pm to reach Taipei in time for a late dinner.
A history Taipei is located at the northern tip of the island of Taiwan (officially, the Republic of China or ROC). The island’s position—around 100 miles off the southeast coast of China and across major shipping lanes—has given it strategic importance. The first Europeans to reach there were the Portuguese in 1544, who named it Ihla Formosa (“beautiful island”). Since then, Taiwan has been colonized by the Dutch, the Spanish, the Chinese and the Japanese. Today, it is claimed by the People’s Republic of China (PRC), the ROC, and Taiwanese
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nationalists who seek independence—though the de facto government of Taiwan is the ROC. Although the majority of Taiwan’s population is Han Chinese, around two per cent of inhabitants belong to aboriginal tribes whose ancestors inhabited the island for thousands of years prior to colonisation. In fact, some academics believe that Taiwan is the cradle of all Austronesian populations. Colonisation began in 1624, when the Dutch invaded the southwest of the island as part of a campaign to disrupt Portuguese and Spanish activities in East Asia and build their own trading relations with the Ming Empire and Japan. They recruited Chinese settlers on a large scale to facilitate the production of agricultural commodities, namely rice and sugar. The Spanish established themselves in the north of the island but were driven out by the Dutch in less than 20 years. Taiwan’s first Chinese government was established in 1661, giving way to the Qing dynasty (China’s last imperial dynasty) in 1684. Much later, the island was ceded to Japan by the 1895 Treaty of Shimonoseki which concluded the Sino-Japanese War. It stayed under Japanese rule for half a century
Taiwan is the most populous state and the largest economy outside the United Nations
until 1945, when the Japanese surrendered to the Allies and the ROC—which had been established in mainland China in 1912 after the fall of the Qing dynasty—took control of Taiwan and the surrounding islands. In 1949, when the ROC lost mainland China to the Communists in the Chinese Civil War, it withdrew to Taiwan where ROC leader Chiang Kai-shek declared martial law. As a founding member of the United Nations, the ROC continued to represent China at the organisation until 1971, when the PRC assuxmed China’s seat. In the late 50s and early 60s, Taiwan entered a period of rapid economic growth and industrialisation. It became known for its cheap manufactured exports, hence the wellknown phrase “Made in Taiwan”. Martial law was lifted in 1987 and the country began its transition from one-party rule to democracy. The first direct presidential elections were held in 1996. Today, the country’s economy is dominated by services and to a slightly lesser
city break extent, manufacturing. Taiwan also has the fifth largest foreign reserves in the world, behind those of only China, Japan, Saudi Arabia and Switzerland. Despite closer economic ties with mainland China, political differences remain unsolved. Under its One China Policy, the PRC refuses diplomatic relations with any country that maintains official ties with the ROC (hence the controversy over the phone call between US President Trump and Taiwan President Tsai Ingwen late last year). Taiwan is not recognised as an independent country by much of the world, though many states maintain unofficial ties through representative offices and institutions. During our stay, it was the Summer Universiade (or World University Games), a global multisport event and one of the few international events that the island is able to host given the controversy over its political status.
Eat and drink
Addiction Aquatic Development
Raohe Night Market Addiction Aquatic Development Much better than your average night market The name does not do this place justice. This and less touristy than the one at Shilin. This one beautifully laid out fish market houses fresh is packed with fantastic food—each stall has seafood, a supermarket, restaurants and food its own speciality so ordering is easy and there kiosks all under one roof. Grab a basket, pile is lots of variety. Think pork buns, fried squid, in some beers and sushi (or whatever takes spicy sweetcorn, Japanese omelettes, stinky your fancy), and eat at one of the tables outside tofu fries, and much more. My favourite were (standing only but sheltered). the black pepper pork buns—get them from No. 18, Alley 2, Lane 410, Minzu E Rd, the stall at the entrance near the temple (when Zhongshan District you enter from the eastern end). The queue moves quickly. The nearest MRT is Songshan Brown Sugar Station—you can get taxis but the MRT is a A spacious restaurant/bar with food and live great, easy-to-use music—great for after-dinner way to get around. drinks or if you want a less Did you know? Buses are trickier. authentic hangout for a while. The The major religions of Taiwan are music is usually soul/jazz. Buddhism and Taoism. A small No. 101, Songren is ation percentage of the popul Road, Xinyi District Christian.
Xin Yeh Taiwanese buffet—a good selection of dishes. 2/F, 112 Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Road Mala Guo The Chinese word for spicy hotpot. There is an all-you-can-eat buffet for NT$600. Go out of Zhongxiao Dunhua MRT station Exit 2, take the first left, then turn right. Keep walking straight, you may have to ask someone. Ay Chung Flour Rice Noodles This street food stall is always surrounded by a crowd of people slurping its noodles. The menu is simple: soft vermicelli noodles and bits of salty cured pig intestines in a thick gravy. Choose large or small. You can add vinegar, chili oil and garlic in the condiments corner. Several locations, including No.8-1 Emei Street, Ximending
Raohe Night Market; (Bottom left): the famous black pepper pork buns.
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travel Beef noodle soup Taiwan is well known for this delicious dish of beef chunks (or slices) and noodles in a hearty and flavourful broth. Find it throughout the city
See/Do Inside the city Hire a bike Government bike rental system Youbike provides rentals, at NT$10 per 30 minutes. Check the website for details and a map of rental stations in the city, taipei.youbike.com.tw/en. The riverside is a great place to cycle (or walk).
National Palace Museum Originally founded within Beijing’s Forbidden City in 1925, this museum moved to Taipei following the ROC’s relocation in 1949. It houses over 600,000 precious artefacts moved to Taiwan to prevent their desecration during and after the Chinese Civil War—including the famous Jade Cabbage. Afterwards, you can head across the street to the Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines, dedicated to Taiwan’s indigenous cultures. Dadaocheng A nice area to walk around. The main street— Dihua Street—is the oldest street in Taipei, with some sections in existence since Dutch rule. Find plenty of Chinese medicinal herbs, dried fruits, fabrics, incense, and tea. Lungshan Temple One of the oldest temples in the city. There’s also a road of fortune tellers next door.
Biking along the riverside
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Taipei 101 Head up to the 89th floor of this architectural landmark via what was once the Guinness World Record holder for fastest elevator in the world—37 seconds to be precise.
A teashop owner invites us in
Ximending A really busy area, with lots of lights and people around in the evenings. Plenty of fashion shops and its own night market—plus some nice bars. Exit 5 or 6 at Ximending MRT Station. Elephant Mountain, Xiangshan The hiking trail is steep, but the short route (take a left at the fork) is only 20 minutes and offers great views of the city at sunset.
Outside the city Tamsui A nice seaside town to visit in the daytime. Tamsui Old Street is lined with shops, restaurants and vendors selling local snacks. Also within the district is hilltop Fort San Domingo, built by the Spanish.
Did you know?
The official language of Taiwan anhua) is Mandarin Chinese. Taiwanese (Minn ts to a is also spoken, and other local dialec nese much lesser extent. Some elderly Taiwa ed attend they se becau ese Japan can speak school during the Japanese occupation. g English may be spoken in cities to varyin degrees.
Jiufen This mountain town was built by the Japanese and was the inspiration behind animated film Spirited Away. Now, it’s a maze of lanes and alleyways, the centre of which can become very crowded as busloads of visitors arrive. It’s about a 1.5-hour bus ride away from the centre of Taipei. Beitou This thermal hot spring area was developed into a resort under the Japanese. You could visit on your way back to the city from Tamsui. The area around Xinbeitou station is filled with public and private baths, but check the etiquette before entering. Book a private room in advance to avoid disappointment. We were recommended Beitou Spring City Resort by a friend—take a cab there from Xinbeitou Station.
city break Ali Mountain The focal point of the Alishan National Scenic Area, known for its tea, spring cherry blossoms and hiking trails. It’s also home to the Tsou tribe, who each October celebrate the Life Bean or Fona Festival. Yangmingshan The closest national park to Taipei, around 50 minutes by bus from Shilin station— particularly beautiful from October thanks to golden red maple leaves.
Stay Regent Taipei The Regent Taipei is centrally located, within walking distance of shops and the MRT. Incidentally, it was also a filming location for the 2014 science fiction film Lucy, directed by Luc Besson and starring Scarlett Johansson. Back to reality, the daily buffet breakfast is great with a huge variety of food. The rooms are comfortable and spacious and come with heated toilet seats—a delightful surprise. There’s a 17 metre outdoor swimming pool on the roof, a wellequipped gym in the basement and a high end shopping mall beneath. Those who opt for more luxurious Tai Pan rooms get butler service and exclusive access to the Tai Pan Lounge. The lounge is open 24 hours
The Tai Pan lounge at the Regent Taipei
a day, a quiet place to read or get work done. It has great views, a selection of newspapers, two Macs and serves complimentary afternoon tea daily, as well as drinks and food in the evenings. The Regent Academy programme offers 10 bespoke historical, cultural and lifestyle activities, available for individuals or groups. Try a private cooking session with Regent’s star chef, create your very own fragrance at CYRANO, or go on a Regent butler-accompanied shrimp fishing outing–a local Taiwanese pastime. Experiences start at NT$600. Nightly rates vary by season, but currently start at NT$5,950 plus taxes. To book, visit regenthotels.com/regent-taipei No. 3, Lane 39, Section 2, Zhongshan N Rd.
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pets
Woof!
Ask a vet... Dr. Pauline Pets Central veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.
“When will the howling and barking at night stop?” If excessive barking is your problem, consider the age of your dog—young dogs bark for very different reasons than seniors. Some dogs bark for a reward, attention, out of fear, anxiety, caregiving and even to play. Older dogs may show endless repetitive barking as part of aging and medical disease, doggy Alzheimer’s. Dogs have been human companions for thousands of years, acting as guardians of humans and their property. If you can’t find a simple answer to why your dog is barking at night, talk to a veterinary behaviourist, or your vet. “How do I stop our cat scratching all our furniture?” Young cats naturally exhibit play and exploratory behaviours. Direct your cat away from the problem areas and items and towards those you want him or her to use. Provide perching areas for exploration, scratching and climbing, and toys that stimulate your cat’s IQ by encouraging manipulation to get a food reward (or hide catnip in containers around the house). Supervise playtime and use hand clapping, water pistols, or whistles to interrupt undesirable actions. Scratching of upright objects like furniture is normal and done to keep their predatory apparatus in good order. But it can be destructive in your home and cause family arguments. It is one reason that many cats are handed over to rehoming centres—“It’s me or the cat” is something I’ve heard many times. In such situations seek preventative counseling and help. “What are some of the symptoms of tumours in dogs? Tumours may be benign or malignant—if the latter, action needs to be taken as soon as possible to stop it spreading. Nowadays “cancer” is curable in many cases, and controllable in many more. Not all tumours are visible on the body, but where they are, the area with a tumour will look and feel different to what it used to e.g. in colour, shape, or there may be a mass present. Tumours commonly appear on the external surfaces of dogs and cats, especially in aging pets. Internal tumours cannot be seen and are suspected typically because of other signs, e.g. in behaviour, weight gain or loss. Some tumours cause very little change that can go unnoticed for some time. As pet parents we need to be aware of the signs. In these cases is to consult your vet.
Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
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Horoscopes
hong kong horoscopes
AQUARIUS Jan 21 – Feb 19
PISCES Feb 20 – Mar 20
ARIES Mar 21 – Apr 20
TAURUS Apr 21 – May 21
The goddess Chang’e resides on the moon, alone save for a rabbit as a companion. Another legend has it that the woodcutter Wu Gang lives up there, chopping down an osmanthus tree that grows back as soon as it’s toppled. It must be a lonely life for them both: perhaps a moonlit night is the perfect time for a touch of matchmaking?
The Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail is, as the name suggests, ancient. It was originally the only path which linked Yuen Long to Tsuen Wan, and farmers would wearily trudge along it every day, taking their goods to market. These days it’s a pleasant hike with stunning views of the Tsing Ma Bridge. The next time you’re hiking it, think about the thousands of footsteps taken on this path before you—and be glad you’re not carrying a basketful of vegetables.
Li Bai was the greatest Tang Dynasty poet, and “Quiet Night Thought” is his best-known work. It’s a rumination on seeing the moon from his bed, and realizing that same light is shining on his hometown, far away. But where Li Bai feels homesickness, I’m heartened that the same light shines on us all: it brings us together, Aries. Share some moonlight with friends this month.
For 56 years from 1939, the RMS Queen Elizabeth was the largest ocean liner in the world, plying her trade between the UK and the USA. After retiring from service she ended up in Hong Kong harbour, where her tycoon owner intended to turn her into a floating university. But in 1972, she caught fire under mysterious circumstances and was sunk. An ignominious end, Taurus – but a timely reminder that sometimes things don’t turn out great, and that’s OK.
LEO Jul 23 – Aug 22
VIRGO Aug 23 – Sep 23
LIBRA Sep 24 – Oct 23
SCORPIO Oct 24 – Nov 22
“Add oil!” This Cantonese saying is a phrase of encouragement, exhorting someone to step on the gas, to put in a little extra dose of effort. You’ll hear it all over town, but I want to say it to you, Leo. What do you need an extra boost with? Your career, friendships, love life? Whatever it is, Leo – add oil!
Did you know an indoor roller coaster runs around the top floor of Sham Shui Po’s Dragon Centre? Sadly, it’s been out of use since the mid-2000s, and now the rails which snake across the central atrium lie untravelled. What a shame! Still, I love the idea. Find an aspect of your life that needs a roller coaster ride, and let yourself drop into it.
There’s a legend behind the salted egg yolk at the centre of a mooncake. It’s said that Ming revolutionaries hid messages inside mooncakes, in order to coordinate a revolt against the Mongol rulers. Once the message was received, the cake could be eaten to disguise the means of delivery. A devious and delicious plan—and a reminder that even the most unassuming of packages can contain so much more.
Autumn approaches, and the leaves on the trees begin shifting hues, from green to golden oranges and vivid yellows. Well, not in Hong Kong. Most trees here are evergreen, and their foliage doesn’t change colour. Be like the evergreen, Aries: remember that you don’t always have to change to suit the seasons. Sometimes, following your own path is the best course.
As transmitted to Adam White, writer, editor and occasional soothsayer. 66 | SOUTHSIDE.HK
GEMINI May 22 – Jun 21
CANCER Jun 22 – Jul 22
The Sea Ranch was a luxurious development on Lantau island constructed in the 1970s. Originally billed as a luxury resort for wealthy Hongkongers, nonexistent land links and lack of interest killed off the development. But it never went anywhere, and nowadays an independentminded population still lives in this isolated slice of paradise. Sometimes an idea just needs to find its audience, Gemini: just ask The Sea Ranch.
During the Chung Yeung festival, Hongkongers gather to fly kites. They’re said to be able to carry your bad luck up, up and away. You don’t have to go and buy a kite just for the festival, Cancer. But how about this: Send a mental kite up into the heavens, and let it float your anxiety and your worries away.
SAGITTARIUS Nov 23 – Dec 21
CAPRICORN Dec 22 – Jan 20
The sweltering summer is finally receding, and hiking season is here at last! I wish you good luck on the trails, Sagittarius. Because at some point, you will be overtaken by a troupe of grannies with thighs of steel. Do not try to match pace. Do not try to overtake them back. Accept that sometimes, you won’t be able to beat everyone—and that’s OK.
One of my favourite places in all of Hong Kong is Tsui Wah restaurant on Wellington Street. Why? Because this 24-hour, three-floor cha chaan teng contains multitudes. By day it’s a place for office drones to grab a quick breakfast or lunch. In the evenings teens and shoppers get dinner. And in the small hours, the clubbers of Lan Kwai Fong come for much-needed sustenance. It’s flexible, adaptable, and so it’s cherished. Is there a Tsui Wah in you, Capricorn?
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The latest green issues affecting our city.
A Citizens Task Force is to be established in response to concerns over the newly appointed Task Force on Land Supply
W
hen the Chief Executive formed the Task Force on Land Supply last month she forgot the promise in her manifesto to “draw on the collective wisdom of society...to find a solution that benefits the community as a whole”, to “establish a dedicated task force representing various sectors” and to “strive to engage the public to reach a consensus on land supply.” What we now have is a narrow development oriented group which includes the Heung Yee Kuk and misses out many sectors. The focus of the task force is on providing land to cope with development needs. Many members have previously expressed support for developing country park areas, filling in Plover Cove reservoir and/or large scale reclamations near Lantau. Absent are the green and urban planning concern groups. Obvious talent such as Liber Research Community, which does phenomenal research into land issues on a shoestring, is strikingly absent. The closest we get to members concerned with conservation of natural areas and ecologically sensitive habitats areas are two semi-retired geography professors. They are well versed in sustainability, but they do not represent Hong Kong’s current environmentalists and urban planning advocates, nor do they connect with the larger and younger land justice groups. In considering nominations for the Task Force, Carrie Lam’s subordinates weeded out all those who would challenge the norm. Now, Hong Kong risks missing out on the smarter solutions which follow from true debate. In response, a number of us have agreed to set up a Citizen Task Force on Land Use and Supply (CTF). Participants include green groups, academia, lawyers, planners and architects, including those who work for developers, and young land justice activists. The CTF will consider supply as well as drivers for demand. Anyone travelling through the chaos of the
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Photo by Wpcpey
Supply & demand
zim city
Construction at Kai Tak
New Territories must wonder about our inefficient land use. Of the 18,854 hectares which appears developed only around 6,700 hectares is well laid out towns like Sha Tin and Yuen Long. Around 1,700 hectares will be converted into new towns such as Hung Shui Kiu, Kwu Tung and Yuen Long South. That leaves 10,000 hectares of land covered with chaotic villages and brownfield areas which lacks proper roads, sewerage and other infrastructure. Land which is abused for all kinds of trades, and much of which is consumed by roads—the interchanges at Yau Ma Tei, the Cross Border Facility being built at the end of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge, and the new roads under construction at Kai Tak, to name a few. The Government Task Force will take a macro review of land supply options and launch a public engagement exercise to discuss their pros and cons. The CTF’s objective is to ensure government transparency and fair public participation in these discussions. It wants a focus on the values and criteria for making decisions on land use and supply. The CTF will meet regularly in public, seek funding, conduct research and make proposals. The government has the money and much of the data, so ideally it will invite the CTF to work closely or merge with its own task force. It would make for healthier debates and less division. But maybe that is too much to ask.
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
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Jennifer Lee explores a mosque within a prison Photos courtesy of Tom Billinge, thetempletrail.com
Stanley Mosque
southside secrets...
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ocated inside the grounds of Stanley Prison, Stanley Mosque was the fourth mosque built in Hong Kong. It was originally constructed for the 400 or so Muslim employees from present-day Pakistan and India who worked for the Prison Department during the colonial era. The mosque was built on an east-west axis to face Mecca, Saudi Arabia— the holiest city in Islam and the birthplace of the Prophet Mohammed. Initially, the Prison Department headquarters were at Arbuthnot Road, so most Muslim staff went to Jamia Mosque on Shelley Street for prayers. However, when the headquarters were relocated from Arbuthnot Road to Stanley Prison, there were calls to set up a new mosque near the prison. Prison authorities provided a piece of land which was used for daily prayers. A mosque was later built on the same land and opened on on January 1, 1937. Over the years, attendance at Friday prayers at the mosque declined from around 150 Muslim staff in the 1970s to just seven families in 1998. The Advisory Board of Antiquities and Monuments Office designated the mosque a Grade 1 historic building on 18 December, 2009. The sandy coloured mosque contains a Exploring prayer hall, veranda (from the Indian word Southside’s varanda) and courtyard, with a parking area in front. It is of particular note for its incorporation hidden of various architectural styles, including Islamic,
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Ottoman, Saracenic, Moorish, Byzantine and Chinese. It is also noteworthy for retaining much of its original appearance, particularly the exterior. The wall opposite the entrance has a niche or recess (called the mihrab) that faces Mecca and indicates the direction in which the congregation should kneel and pray or prostrate themselves. To the side of the mihrab, there is the minbar or pulpit for the imam, or priest. A purdah screen separates the area reserved for women. Framed passages from the Koran hang on the walls of the prayer-hall. The mosque is still in operation, mainly serving the Muslim officers of the prison. It is also still of importance to Hong Kong’s Muslim community. As the mosque is located in within prison grounds, it is not generally open to the public, and visitors are required to gain prior permission. However, the Correctional Services Department permits the use of the Mosque on Fridays or other special occasions by Muslims other than its own staff. For more information, visit iuhk.org
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