Mid-levels Nov 2017

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Mid-levels magazine

November 2017

Home away from home Buying property abroad—we ask the expats and experts

Five minutes with…

Sian Trodd, Director of Hong Kong charity Box of Hope

Read all about it!

What’s on at Hong Kong International Literary Festival

PLUSmas

rist Ch ts rke ma o shop for

t Where king fillers stoc

Paradise found Exploring Mauritius

'Tis the season

Hairy crab fever returns—how, where and why you should get involved

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Mid-levels magazine

The really useful magazine November 2017

37

20

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31 6

9 PEOPLE

FIVE MINUTES WITH...

4 Snapped!

Life around Mid-levels

18 Sian Trodd Director of Hong Kong charity Box of Hope

THE PLANNER

LOCAL

6 Happening in November Events for your diary

20 All aboard!

Are water taxis coming to Victoria Harbour?

THINGS WE’D BUY 10 Christmas markets Stock up on stocking fillers

COVER STORY 22 Home away from home Buying property abroad: we ask the expats and the experts

NEWS 14 What’s going on?

In your back yard

ARTS AND CULTURE

GIVEAWAYS

28 Read all about it!

The lowdown on the Hong kong International Literary Festival

16 Free stuff Fab things to win READERS’ SURVEY

EATING

17 Tell us about yourself Enter to win a two-night staycation at the Kerry Hotel

TRAVEL 36 Paradise found A week in Mauritius. What to do and where to stay PICTURE THIS 40 Painting of the month Wet markets and skylines HOROSCOPE 42 Signs from the stars Adam White predicts your future ZIM CITY 44 Paul Zimmerman on….

Making Hong Kong more walkable BUILDING OF THE MONTH 48 King Yin Lei Hollywood glamour on Stubbs Road

32 A hairy situation Your guide to hairy crab season

“THERE IS NO FRIGATE LIKE A BOOK TO TAKE US LANDS AWAY” - EMILY DICKINSON

MID-LEVELS.CO | 1

contributors

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un Catharina Che

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Joni Chan ... ha s a pa ss ion fo r A rt a nd D es ig n a nd enjo ys ph ot og ra ph y.

Sh e draw s a nd pa in ts in he r spare ti m e. In he r art, sh e trie s to ca pt ure be auty in m u nd a ne obje ct s a nd pl aces. At th e we ek en ds, sh e lo ve s st ro lli ng arou nd F low er M ar ket R oa d in M on g Ko k fo r fre sh cut flo we rs. ch a nh c1222@ gm ail. co m

eisz Anna Schult oved to d e sig n er. S h e m a s c hi p ra g r ou ... is and h re e y ea rs a g o H on g K on g th . Anna city ever si n ce e th g n vi lo n e s fo r bee hills a n d bea ch e th g n ri lo p lo ve s ex a ve lli n g d e s a rt a n d tr n d is si e B . on ti ira in sp a ls a te a bout a n im sh e is pa ss io n a y th e u k u le le. le a rn in g to p la

Want to write for Mid-levels Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com

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MID-LEVELS.CO | 3

people Mid-levels snaps

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have your say “What is your favourite book?”

Medicus because it comes from the old days.

- Hanspeter

The Jungle Book because it makes me happy.

- Martin

Marching Powder because it’s a true story and so interesting.

- Kristen

Becoming Wise because it has so many insights about life.

- Kyle

The God of Small Things because is a beautifully written love story.

- Robyn MID-LEVELS.CO | 5

planner

NOV 17-19

Clockenflap

Hong Kong’s biggest music and arts festival is back for its 10th run. Growing rapidly in size since 2007, it has hosted many global names, and this year’s star-studded lineup features Massive Attack, The Prodigy, MØ, Temples and many more. $1,940 for a three-day pass. Single day passes start from $930, with student tickets starting from $570. Book online at clockenflap.com.

Central Harbourfront, 9 Lung Wo Road, Central.

UNTIL NOV 9 Exhibition: Life Goes On Within You and Without You Sri Lankan-born Hong Kong artist Kos Cos attempts to subvert the time freezing properties of portraits by introducing a dynamic element of into each piece. Layers of bright paint are poured over the portrait over several weeks until a dry crust forms. When broken, it releases the liquid colours inside, irreversibly changing the work underneath in unpredictable ways. Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels.

UNTIL NOV 25 Hong Kong International Comedy Festival 2017 This year’s lineup features Ahmed Ahmed and Paul Ogata. The festival also includes a Comedy Competition, the finals of which will be on November 4. Tickets from $250. Most events will be held at The TakeOut Comedy Club HK, 34 Elgin Street, Soho. Visit hkcomedyfestival.com

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Glitter, Glitz & Glamour The Avenue of Stars has partnered with renowned movie poster artist Yuen Tai-yung to create an exhibition featuring 24 caricatures of movie stars and singers. Mr Yuen was recently presented with the ‘Professional Achievement Award’ at the Hong Kong Film Awards for his contribution to Hong Kong cinema. See the likes of Bruce Lee, Leslie Cheung, Anita Mui, and Angelina Jolie displayed in caricature form. Admission is free; Garden of Stars, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

UNTIL MAR 2018

NOV 1-5 Haitong International 2017 Hong Kong Open Windsurfing Championships

Windsurfers from around the world compete in Tai Tam Bay, culminating in a party on Nov 5 (10am-3pm) at the Hong Kong Sea School to introduce the joys of the sport to a wider audience. Enter the photography competition for a chance to win a professional grade camera drone and a GoPro HERO 6. Stanley Main Beach. Visit Facebook @htiwindsurfing

NOV 1-30 Crablicious Restaurant booking platform FeedMe Guru has teamed up with 60+ restaurants and 5-star hotels to offer crab themed tasting menus throughout November. Participating outlets include the Island Shangri-La and Yan To Heen. Visit feedmeguru.com/crabalicious

Exhibition: Then Is Now

happening in November

NOV 1-11

UK-based artist Emily Allchurch uses photography and digital collage to reconstruct Old Master works in contemporary narratives. The resulting collages resonate with place, history and culture. Then Is Now showcases Allchurch’s iconic piece Babel London and acclaimed Asia-focused series Tokyo Story. It also marks the kick off of her new project Babel Hong Kong. Karin Weber Gallery, 20 Aberdeen Street, Central.

NOV 2-5 Mothercare Baby Expo Leading British retailer of products for mothersto-be, babies and children Mothercare introduces the Mothercare 1st Baby Expo. Visit over 90 booths packed with famous brands and innovative products. $10 admission, free for children under 12. 3/F, Star Hall, KITEC, Kowloon Bay.

NOV 2 Full Moon Sound Meditation Class Back by popular demand, raise your awareness and consciousness with the energy of the full moon and Tibetan singing bowls, traditionally used for healing, cleansing, and relaxation. In this hour-long sound healing meditation class, you will learn to use different sound vibrations as a tool to release tension in the body. Look forward to a deep state of relaxation, balanced chakra energy, and improved circulation and sleep quality. $220 per person, for more information, search ‘The Yoga Room’ on eventbrite.hk. 8:30-9:30pm. The Yoga Room, 6/F Studio, Xiu Ping Commercial Building, 104 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan.

Championships, how new dishes are developed and more. There will be a gala menu specially prepared by Danish chef Mads Sondergaard, who will also be doing a cooking demonstration on how to make a Danish snack, featuring dishes like salted Danish doughnut and croquette of lamb. Free flow wine, beer, and soft drinks throughout the event.

Tickets can be purchased via dcc.hk at $900 for Danish Chamber of Commerce members and $1,000 for non members. 7-11pm. Concord Room, 8/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road.

Kong and its work with children and village schools in western Nepal. There will be over 30 market stalls, a licensed bar, food booths, a charity auction, and beach games among other activities. Over 500 runners will also be participating in the Lamma8 and Lamma14 races earlier in the day, returning to the beach in time for festivities. Admission is free. Tai Wan To Beach, near Yung Shue Wan.

NOV 4 Hong Kong Spartan Race One of the world’s most famous obstacle course races, a Spartan Race is designed to push contestants to their limits. We have been assured that “there will be fire, mud, water, barbed wire, and occasionally Hell on Earth”.

The race will be split into the 13km Spartan Super with up to 29 obstacles and the 6km Spartan Sprint with up to 23 obstacles; there will also be kids’ race categories with distances split by age group. Tickets range from $480 for the Open Junior Race to $1180 for the Elite Spartan Super; spectator only tickets are also available at $50 with limited spots. Kam Tin Country Club, Shui Tau Road, Yuen Long. For more information and ticketing, visit spartanrace.hk

NOV 4 Lamma Fun Day Beach Music Festival Over 15 music acts perform on two stages as part of this family-friendly music festival, raising money to support Child Welfare Scheme Hong

NOV 4-18 Discovery Montessori Schools Open Day Find out if the Montessori system is for you and your children at these open days, one on each Saturday of the month: Central campus (November 4), Discovery Montessori Academy Primary School (November 11); Discovery Bay campus (November 18). All open days will run from 10am-noon, with fun activities for children on the day. Visit discoverymontessori.info

Hong Kong International Literary Festival This year’s festival features a diverse lineup of writers, encompassing fiction, thrillers, poetry and live storytelling among others. Discover Hong Kong writers, hear from literary stars—such as Carol Ann Duffy, Amy Tan and Ian Rankin—and attend topical events, including a few focused on the 20th anniversary of Hong Kong’s return to China.

Full-time students are entitled to 50 per cent off most events. Tickets at festival.org.hk

NOV 3-12

NOV 3 An evening with the National Culinary Team of Denmark Discover how the National Culinary Team of Denmark prepares for competitions such as the Culinary Olympic Games and World

MID-LEVELS.CO | 7

planner NOV 5 jimi’s Bootcamp Celebrate a healthier lifestyle and burn fat with a range of different instructors. Admission to this bootcamp is free, or participants can pay what they feel like. All proceeds will go towards the promotion of Hong Kong’s local personal trainers. Simply bring a towel and a bottle of water; music and swag provided. jimi has a schedule of boot camps lined up. For further dates, search ‘jimi’ on eventbrite.hk. 5-6pm. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Park, Sai Ying Pun.

NOV 7 Melbourne Cup Charity Long Lunch To coincide with one of the most anticipated dates in horse racing, Farmer’s Market is teaming up with local charity Angels for Orphans to host a long lunch at the Aberdeen Marina Club. There will be free-flow drinks and canapés, a three-course meal, followed by transport to The Butcher’s Club Secret Kitchen for an after-party. Items in the charity auction include a week at a luxury villa in Bali. Funds raised will go directly to Angels for Orphans to support their work with underprivileged children. 10am-2pm, and 2:30-10pm for the after party. Individual tickets are $1,088, and, along with group tickets, are available at farmersmarket.com.hk

photo cameras may modify people’s attitudes when being photographed. 1-7pm daily. 1/F, Flat B, 89 Hollywood Road, Central.

life changes, and the power of kung fu. Food, drinks, and music will be provided. 7pm start. eicó studio, 2B Evergreen Industrial Mansion, 12 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang. For further enquiries email info@eico.hk

NOV 9 American Women’s Association Charity Bazaar

NOV 9 Taking care of yourself for Movember Eco-friendly paint producer eicó is hosting a party to celebrate the start of Movember. Guests are promised the chance to meet “an interesting and eclectic bunch of people” revolving around the topic of how better to look after oneself.

Learn about hair grooming, hats, making positive

Over 70 vendors selling jewellery, ladies fashion and accessories, cosmetics, children’s apparel, Christmas decorations, stationery, gifts, toys and wine. Enter the Lucky Lai See for the chance to win big prizes. At the Giving Tree, you can donate to fund a specific need selected by the AWA. 11:30am-7:30pm. PMQ, Aberdeen Street, Soho. For enquiries, contact Barbora Mayer at 2527 2961 or director_operations@awa.org.hk

NOV 11 The Free Clinic The Free Clinic is a joint project between the Chinese International School’s Service Programme, Stanley Wellness Centre and Dr

Bloomberg Square Mile Relay NOV 8 “Creative Play the Waldorf Way”: An evening with Janni Nicol A free talk and discussion for parents and teachers of young children. Janni Nicol is the UK early childhood representative for Steiner Waldorf schools and kindergartens. She writes, consults and lectures on the Steiner early childhood education model. Wine, cheese and refreshments will be provided. Free admission, RSVP at creativeplayhighgate.eventbrite.hk 7-8:30pm, Highgate House School, 2/F, 100 Peak Road, The Peak.

NOV 9-30 SMILE! A Happy Bronze Sculptures Exhibition by Gaud Gaud, a French artist based in Hong Kong, brings to Rouge Ephémere Gallery a solo exhibition of bronze sculptures, exploring how

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125 corporations from across the city will be competing against each other in this one-mile relay through the city. Funds raised will help local charity Unleash Foundation. Applications have all sold out in record time, but you can still cheer on the teams along the route, and join the after-party festivities. Edinburgh Place, Central. For more information, visit squaremilerelay.com/hong-kong

NOV 9

Hong Kong Art Week

NOV 15-26

Over 50 member galleries will support a range of activities centred around the theme ARTROPOLIS. Highlights include the Gallery Walk for Charity on November 21—where art lovers can hop through 30 galleries and art spaces in Central, Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun with live performances and refreshments at each stop—and the Art Symposium on November 17 and 18, a series of talks on the topic Asia: New Frontiers in the Art World. For the full programme, visit hk-aga.org

Lauren Bramley & Partners. It brings together GPs, nurses, osteopaths, OBGYNs, and other professionals to provide free medical care to the city’s underprivileged. This time, the clinic will be adding dentistry to its standard services. Help inspire more healthcare professionals to get involved by spreading the word. Visit facebook. com/cisfreeclinic for more details. 120 Stanley Main Street, Stanley Market, and 9/F, Pacific House, 20 Queen’s Road, Central.

NOV 11 Soju Tasting 101 To raise money for the Rainbow Families of Hong Kong activities tent at Pink Dot festival, a volunteer-led group of LGBTQ+ parents has partnered with Edition to offer an afternoon of soju sampling. The Korean fusion bar and restaurant is known for its infused soju, and owner Kat Zai will lead participants on a history and tasting of classic soju, followed by Edition’s infused versions. Nibbles will also be provided. $250 entry. 1-3pm. 37 Peel Street, Central.

NOV 11 AND 18 The Rhythm of Life concert The Hong Kong Welsh Male Voice Choir returns for its annual collaboration with HKAPA students. This year, the choir is joined by soprano Hedy Chan and baritone Irwin Chan, the Academy Brass Ensemble, as well as

happening in November students from Hong Kong Gifted Education and Talent Development Association. Tickets range from $200 to $300, available through Hong Kong Ticketing. 7:30pm start. Concert Hall, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts.

NOV 28 British Boarding Schools Show The British Boarding Schools Show will be coming to Hong Kong for the first time this year. Families can meet the Heads and representatives of specially selected leading UK boarding schools, as well as talk to boarding school specialists to understand more about this big life choice. Admission is free, RSVP attendance at eventbrite.hk. Opening times are 10am-2pm and 5-8pm. Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road.

NOV 30 Expat Parent Charity Christmas Lunch What better way to get into the Christmas spirit than a fun lunch with friends for a good cause? All lucky table proceeds and profits will go towards local charity Box of Hope. $550/ person or $500/person if you book a table. Each ticket includes a three-course lunch, bubbly and wine or soft drinks. Seats are limited so book early! 12noon-2:30pm. Mr Wolf, 5/F Crawford House, 70 Queen’s Road, Central. To book, visit hongkongliving.com

NOV 29 A Night of Bordeaux Indulgence Kerry Wines and the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux have teamed up for their annual grand tasting event for wine enthusiasts in Hong Kong. Over 90 esteemed Châteaux owners and representatives will showcase wines from the 2011 and 2014 vintages. Guests will be able to taste a wide variety including Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Lynch-Bages, Léoville Poyferré, Beychevelle, Branaire-Ducru, and Smith Haut Lafitte.

Tickets are $658, or $588 if purchased before November 10. 6:30-9:30pm. The Ballroom, 1/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. For ticketing and further details, visit kerrywines.com/ugc-tasting-2017

DEC 2-3 Hong Kong 24-Hour Race 2017 Every 24 hours, 5,500 people across the globe fall victim to slavery. Anyone can be a part of a youth-led anti-slavery movement by joining this 24-hour run and advocating for freedom. The

run will be a relay endurance race, but there will also be a music festival where both local and international musicians will be playing live well into the wee hours. Regular tickets cost $280, but the first 280 people will get an early bird price of $200, visit Eventbrite for more details.

December 2 (7am) - December 3 (11am).

Lugard Road, The Peak.

DEC 15-26 The Nutcracker by HK Ballet Join Clara on her magical journey and root for the heroic Nutcracker as he battles the evil Rat King—and enjoy Tchaikovsky’s iconic repertoire along the way, accompanied live by Hong Kong Sinfonietta. Matinée performance at 2:30pm, evening performance at 7:30pm. Tickets range from $180 to $1,000; aside from Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, ticket holders can enjoy 15 per cent off in restaurants and bars at the InterContinental Hong Kong on the performance date. Visit hkballet.com for tickets.

Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Photo courtesy of Hong Kong Ballet and Conrad Dy-Liacco

BOOK NOW

Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 9

things we’d buy

How bazaar!

Catharina Cheung rounds up the city’s best Christmas markets

FIS Christmas Market

NOV 1-DEC 5

Sip and Shop PreChristmas Bazaars High-end vendors selling local and international wares. Expect to find everything from jewellery to fashion to festive snacks to homeware—perfect for getting through your Christmas shopping list. The bazaar will be held at The American Club Tai Tam on November 1 and December 5, and at the Fringe Club on November 29. Enjoy free chilled prosecco during bubbly happy hour from 5-7pm. Credit cards will be accepted. RSVP to shoppinghongkong@gmail.com to be given access to the American Club. Visit facebook.com/shoppinghongkongdistinctive for updates.

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NOV 13-14

The Feel Good Fair

Resurrection Church brings us an ethical shopping event. Browse carefully selected, ethically sourced and sustainable products from local vendors who are passionate about helping others and preserving the planet.

Funds raised will go to the Resurrection Church Mission Fund, which supports Inner City Ministries, Christian Action’s programme in Qinghai, and Hope House Cambodia. Free entry, 6:309pm (November 13) and 10am-2pm (November 14). Resurrection Church, Pak Sha Wan Centre.

NOV 15-DEC 10

Prestige Christmas Showcase The Conrad Hotel’s Grand Ballroom will house over 350 pop-up stalls and brands from around the world to solve your gift-buying woes. Browse the best of fashion, food, homeware, children’s products. The Gift and Lifestyle Fair will be on November 15, Pre-Christmas Gift Parade on November 27, Christmas Gift Showcase on December 2, and Christmas Gift Festival on December 10. Shoppers will be eligible for a 15 per cent discount when dining at the Garden Café or Lobby Lounge. Free admission, 10am-6pm or 8pm. Visit prestigefairs. hk. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway.

stocking fillers NOV 18

NOV 25

Non-profit playgroup and and preschool City Kids brings us its annual Christmas fair. Among other attractions, there will a bouncy castle, cookie decorating sessions, shopping stalls, a bake sale, and a BBQ sausage sizzle. We are told Santa will also pop in for a photo opportunity.

10:30am-4pm, free admission. City Kids School, 12 Borrett Road, Mid-levels.

This Christmas market will also serve as an open house event for families to view Fairchild. There will be at least 10 stalls selling various gifts and trinkets such as organic oils, bilingual books, toys, and clothing.

Vendor table fees and any donations will go to the Make A Wish Foundation.

2-6pm. G/F and 1/F, Kong Chian Tower, Block 1, 351 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun.

City Kids Christmas Fair

NOV 18

Scandinavian Christmas Bazaar

NOV 26

Repulse Bay Christmas Fair

Give your seasonal festivities a Danish and Swedish touch with Dansk Sømandskirke Hong Kong’s bazaar. Find Danish brands such as Skagen and Bestseller, plus Scandinavian snacks galore including æbleskiver, smørrebrød and hotdogs, and a children’s tombola and lucky draw. Further unwind with live music and drinks by the pool.

Tickets are $50 at the door. 10am-5pm. Mariners’ Club, 3/F, 11 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Repulse Bay’s annual Christmas Fair is a treasure trove of Christmas decorations, children’s items, paintings, home accessories, and gift series for sale. There will also be lots of children-friendly activities to keep the littles ones entertained. Visit therepulsebay.com for more details. 109 Repulse Bay Road.

NOV 24-DEC 2

Discovery Montessori Academy Bazaar

White Christmas Street Fair Swire Properties bring us festive shopping, food and drinks, DIY workshops, and live entertainment. Look out for this season’s mascot, a gingerbread man. The fair will be in Starstreet Precinct in Wan Chai from November 24 to 26, and then in Tong Chong Street, Taikoo Place, from November 30 to December 2.

Visit facebook.com/ SwireXmasFair for updates.

NOV 25

Highgate House School Advent Fair Expect seasonal festivities including games, crafts, face painting, breadmaking sessions, a bake sale, and raffle prizes to be won.

There will be a food buffet via donation prepared by parents and teachers and a burger BBQ on the terrace. Puppet shows will be held every hour on the hour. The event will also serve as an open day for attendees to visit the school grounds. Free admission; RSVP at eventbrite.hk. 10am-2:30pm.

Highgate House School, 100 Peak Road.

DEC 2

Fairchild Christmas Market

GSIS Christmas Bazaar Enjoy a taste of authentic German Swiss festive celebrations at GSIS. There will be games, a Santa’s grotto, booths selling ornamental wreaths and more, plus plenty of traditional food such as raclette and Stollen.

Parking is not available, but the school will be providing free shuttle bus services to and fro Central, Pok Fu Lam, and Southside. 10am-4pm, 11 Guildford Road, The Peak.

DEC 2

Il Mercatino Charity Fair This charity fair is held by the Italian Women’s Association. Find Italian food and wine, branded clothes, toys and accessories, sportswear, as well as an Italian gourmet corner. Entrance is $20 and attendees are encouraged to bring their own shopping bags. Funds raised will help projects at the pediatric The Duchess of Kent Children’s Hospital, 12 Sandy Bay Road, Pok Fu Lam. There are no parking spaces available onsite.

DEC 1

Enjoy Christmas plays and musicals presented by the kindergarten and elementary classes, plus Christmas carols from the school choir. Activities include a Santa’s Grotto, Rumple Show, bauble decorating and a raffle. Tide yourself over at the bazaar with food, drink and stalls selling crafts, books, candles and Christmas fruits.

9am-1pm. 92 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay North.

DEC 2

St. Stephen’s Chapel Christmas Fête A “traditional English summer fête with a Christmas twist and a Chinese flavour”. Spend a day amongst the games stalls, marching bands, bouncy castle, acrobats, and Chinese lion dancers. Santa himself will make a grand entrance via helicopter at 12:30pm.

Funds raised goes to charities supported by St Stephen’s. $20 adult entrance fee, children go free, 11am-4:30pm. Sports Ground, St Stephen’s College, Stanley, ststephen.org.hk

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things we’d buy

Let the merriment begin at Discovery Montessori Academy Bazaar

DEC 2

FIS Christmas Fair We have been promised Christmas shopping, lucky draw games, refreshments, and more. Don’t miss the homemade cakes on offer at the famous Café Jardine. 10am-5pm.

For details, visit fis. edu.hk FIS Primary School campus, 34 Price Road, Jardine’s Lookout.

DEC 9

SISHK Xmas Fair Expect a vibrant bazaar with 44 retail stalls, food and drink stands, games and prizes, and a flea market. Visitors are to buy cash coupons for the activities, but the trading stalls will also accept cash. Free admission. 10am4pm. Singapore International School Hong Kong primary school campus, 23 Nam Long Shan Road, Wong Chuk Hang.

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DEC 9-17

Stanley Plaza White Finnish Christmas Market For two consecutive weekends, Stanley Plaza will be transformed into a Finnish market inspired by the St. Thomas Christmas Market in Finland. Over 80 festive stalls will be selling a wide range of crafts, accessories, decorations, and kids items.

Don’t miss the iconic Glass Dining Dome and traditional Finnish food and mulled wine. Guests will also be able to watch an aurora VR show in an igloo and experience a Finnish jacuzzi.

Performances include Santa Lucia, Finnish folk dance, Christmas carolling, and a Nativity play. Free shuttle buses run from Ocean Park MTR, Shau Kei Wan and Aberdeen.

Noon-8pm. Stanley Plaza Amphitheatre & Public Open Space.

DEC 17

Christmas Southside Market The Butchers Club Secret Kitchen is hosting its yearly holiday shopping and long lunch. Menu and entertainment are yet to be confirmed, but last year’s event included a holiday raffle, an ugly sweater contest, lawn games, live music, and lots of vendors spread across two floors. Guests older than 4 need to purchase all-you-can-eat tickets for $250. Free-flow packages for adults are available for an extra $200 online or $250 at the door. Visit thebutchers.club for details.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 13

news

Southside resident attempts Hong Kong Island circumnavigation

Clockenflap returns to Hong Kong Clockenflap, the city’s biggest annual music and arts festival, graces the Central Harbourfront from November 17 to November 19. This year’s 10th anniversary edition will be headlined by British trip-hop giants Massive Attack and Canadian indie star Feist. Other acts include US indie band the Dandy Warhols, Danish singer-songwriter MØ, reunited Hong Kong alternative pop band Fan Hung A, world-music act Tinariwen, Korean R&B/hip hop star Dean, and American DJ and producer Matthew Dear. Massive Attack are set to close the festival with their only performance in Southeast Asia this year. This will be the second year Clockenflap is staged on the Central Harbourfront. The festival was moved to the site last year after five years at the West Kowloon Cultural District site.

Find out more at clockenflap.com and get your tickets at ticketflap.com

Simon Holliday, a Hong Kong-based Briton, will be attempting a solo swim circumnavigation of Hong Kong Island on November 11. The swim, dubbed HK360, will raise money for Splash Foundation, a non-profit swim school founded

by Holliday, which provides free learn-to-swim and water safety lessons for under-served communities in Hong Kong such as domestic helpers and refugees.

Rest assured, Holliday is no newbie. He swam across the English Channel in August 2011, and in May 2014 he swam from Hong

Kong to Macau, breaking the world record.

If successful, this will be the first time anyone has swum the 45 kilometres around the island unassisted and without stopping. With tides, currents, marine traffic and potentially adverse weather conditions the swim is expected to take anywhere between 13 and 18 hours. The swim will start in the early hours of the morning at Sai Wan Swimming Shed near Kennedy Town and end at Repulse Bay. Find out more about Holliday and his attempt on facebook.com/HK360Swim

Studio by JAB relocates to Mid-Levels Studio by JAB has relocated its flagship studio from Lyndhurst Terrace to Queen’s Road Central.

The 10-year-old studio specialises in fitness, dance, mixed martial arts (MMA) and wellness.

The new 4,500 square foot facility has extended its list of services to offer strategically planned physical therapy and nine-week programmes, which are designed to give clients time to learn a new sport, master the basics, make some new friends, and fundamentally, get moving.

Facilities include cryotherapy and an infrared sauna. Studio by JAB is also working closely with adjoining restaurants to offer a range of healthy shakes pre/post workout, bulletproof coffee and healthy meal options.

5/F Crawford House, 70 Queen’s Road, studiojab.hk

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in your backyard

Curtains rise on new cinema Central welcomed a second cinema last month. Operated by Emperor Group, the new establishment targets a high-end clientele and is part cinema, part watering hole. It houses five regular screens and one VIP theatre—a total of 219 seats. Modern updates include leather chairs with USB charging points and free Wi-Fi. The 12-seat VIP house has powered reclining seats and the option to order meals.

Those who’ve been around long enough may feel a sense of deja-vu. The location was once home to The King’s Theatre (1931-1990) and before that the Bijou Scenic Theatre (19101917, thereafter renamed the Coronet Theatre).

Until 2016, the space was home to HMV. The new cinema welcomes bookings for private screenings and parties. It’s in-house restaurant Roomsbar offers nachos, hot dogs, burgers and more, all served with special

toppings and sauce. The drinks menu includes cocktails, wine and draft beer. Tickets are priced at $115 for adults and $95 for children,

Last month of Heritage Fiesta

Hong Kong’s Heritage Fiesta 2017 is open for one more month, until November 30. Since the start of October, 15 historic buildings related to the city’s law and order have been opened to the public as part of the festival.

Admission to all participating buildings is free of charge, and free guided tours are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. Visitors can also collect special stamps as they work their way through this heritage exploration.

Participating buildings include Man Mo Temple Compound, the South Wing of David Trench Rehabilitation Centre, the Law Ting

Pong Scout Centre, the 1881 Heritage, the Ping Shan Tang Clan Gallery cum Heritage Trail Visitors Centre, the Green Hub, the Jao Tsung-I Academy, the Stanley Wellcome, the Savannah College of Art and Design, the Tai O Heritage Hotel, the Stewards High Rock Centre, the Tai Po District Junior Police Call Clubhouse, Warehouse Teenage Club, Western Magistracy Building and the Yamen Park Office and Exhibition Rooms of the Kowloon Walled City Park.

For further information, visit heritage.gov.hk or call 2848 6230.

students and elderly. 3&4/F, Entertainment Building, at the junction of Queen’s Road, Wyndham Street and D’Aguilar Street.

Just Challenge launches in Hong Kong Just Challenge, an organisation that delivers bespoke adventures for companies and their employees, launched in Hong Kong last month.

Each adventure is designed to engage attendees through physical challenges, thereby improving leadership skills, teamwork and fostering deeper relationships. There is also an element of corporate social responsibility: companies have the opportunity to raise money for a partner charity.

“Words alone cannot describe the incredible feeling of completing an expedition while knowing your efforts are helping the lives of others. I needed to share the experience with others,” said founder Lucy Bennett-Baggs at the launch. In her previous role at HSBC, Bennett-Baggs delivered charity expeditions across the Gobi and Sahara Deserts, raising over $US500,000 for WaterAid. Each year, Just Challenge will organise an annual charity challenge open to the public.

The first is a climbing expedition across the Himalayas in March 2018, for which places are now open. Funds raised will be donated to Laureus Sport for Good, whose mission is to use sport to end violence, discrimination and disadvantage in the poorest of communities.

The money will support projects in Hong Kong and India. To find out more, visit justchallenge.com

MID-LEVELS.CO | 15

win at hongkongliving.com

GIVEAWAYS Bayard Children’s Magazines Get your kids hooked on reading!

Bayard Presse Asia is celebrating its 40th anniversary in Hong Kong this year. To celebrate, we are giving away three 12-month subscriptions, valued at nearly $600 each, to one of their fabulous children’s magazines.

Choose from Bayard’s StoryBox (3-6 years), Adventure Box (6-10 years) or Discovery Box (9-12 years) series. The magazines are filled

enter to win! with illustrated stories, articles about nature and history; games and fun activities and more.

Hong Kong Yachting

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Looking for something new to do in Hong Kong?

Join Hong Kong Yachting’s Container Boat Trip for a great day out and a rare chance to get a closer look at the port action. After the tour, the yacht will anchor at a beach for a BBQ lunch before stopping at the Ma Wan deserted village, where you can take a stroll.

We’re giving away one pair of vouchers, valued at $1,800 (includes freeflow drinks).

Younibody is a holistic health lab that provides Bioresonance health assessment and therapy to regulate and detox your body.

Bioresonance therapy is non-invasive and recommended in particular for children and people suffering from allergies, eczema and attention deficit disorders.

We are giving away a free kids’ allergy assessment program, valued at $3,280!

Heliservices Experience Hong Kong Island from above and beyond!

In this 15-minute helicopter trip, you’ll get to fly above Hong Kong Island, across the famous Victoria Harbour and down and around the beaches and bays of the Southside.

We’re giving away a single-seat Hong Kong Island Experience voucher, valued at $1,999.

Revitalising facial at The Ritz Carlton Enjoy a 90-minute pampering experience at The Ritz Carlton.

The Ultimate Turnaround involves ultrasonic peeling, a special “wrinkle comb”, jowl-lifting, an eye treatment and a facial massage to lift, firm and tone sagging skin.

We’re giving away a Ultimate Turnaround experience to one lucky winner, valued at $2,880!

Click the Giveaways tab on our website: hongkongliving.com

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MID-LEVELS.CO | 17

five minutes with

Mid-levels Sian Trodd magazine

Publisher

Tom Hilditch tom@hongkongliving.com

The director of Hong Kong charity Box of Hope discusses this year’s targets and her return to the workforce after 16 years as a housewife

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief Shreena Patel shreena@hongkongliving.com Contributing Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongliving.com Editor Eric Ho eric@hongkongliving.com Editorial Assistant Catharina Cheung catharina@hongkongliving.com

Design

Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongliving.com

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Digital Assistant Cora Chan cora@hongkongliving.com

Thanks to

Adam White Jennifer Lee Jessie Yeung Joni Chan Mehul Dhakka Paul Zimmerman Trisha Harjani

Published by

Hong Kong Living Ltd. Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Photo of The Marin, Batu Ferringhi, Malaysia

I used to work for Asia Sport Group organising golf tournaments. I’m British but was raised in Australia. I moved to Hong Kong in 1994 for a job—my husband and I live in Mid-Levels with our two kids, one dog and two cats. We’ve previously lived on The Peak and Repulse Bay. After having children, I was out of the workforce for sixteen years. I was terrified of putting my CV together with a huge hole in it, but I was looking for something to do and the charity’s co-founder, Nicole Woolhouse, was looking for a logistics person. That was where I started.

HONG KONG hongkongliving.com

18 | MID-LEVELS.CO

Box of Hope sources basic amenities and delivers them to underprivileged children in Cambodia, Philippines, China and Hong Kong. Things like toothbrushes, toothpaste, soap, writing materials.

Children helping children is the main thing. The programme is aimed at schoolchildren in hong Kong who are asked to create a box of must-haves plus a few optional extras. The boxes are sent out to kids ranging from babies until 17 years old.

Children helping children is the main thing

Some parents believe we tamper with the boxes but we don’t; if there’s a bar of soap missing, we’ll throw it in and often countries have requirements. Cambodia and Vietnam don’t accept any clothing by law so we must take that out.

We are a small but well-oiled machine. Across all the charities we work with, at least one person on our team of 11 will know someone in the charity and can vouch for them. We also take trips to Cambodia, Philippines and China to ensure everything is in order.

Last year we sent out 27,500 boxes, with help from 120 schools across the board, from St Nicholas’ to Bradbury to Harrow International School, and some help from corporate sponsors.

People think we’re rich because we work out of Exchange Square in an office that’s kindly provided to us for a few weeks of the year; we’re not. We’re lucky to be given that.

No one is paid, the entire operation is run by volunteers. We have four people on the charities team, five on the schools team, one logistics and one PR person.

hopes and dreams It’s really uplifting to see people from every walk of life looking to help. Since we’re a registered charity, we need to operate by the book and provide all accounts. William Ho, our accountant, does this for us voluntarily. Ho’s parents encouraged him to do charitable work when he was young and it has stuck with him.

Last year, there was the most fantastic situation. We were low on soap and one of the volunteers posted it on the all powerful Facebook page, Hong Kong Moms. Soon enough, we had people pouring in with bags, calls from charities such as Clean the World and companies such as LUSH offering donations.

Washing hands can save lives but many kids don’t realise that. When one of the receivers first got her soap, she put it away and would only use it occasionally to wash her clothes. International Care Ministries runs hygiene courses which teach mothers the importance of good hygiene in terms of cooking and living.

We’re aiming for 29,000 boxes this year. I was inspired by Jenny Bowen, founder of Chinese charity Onesky, who stresses the importance of focusing on your mission. We’ve toyed with ideas like sponsoring a school but our main goal is now to keep the mission alive.

Organisations); they look after families living in subdivided homes—formerly called “caged homes”.

Companies can write you off whenever they want

The terrifying thing about the charity world is that companies can write you off whenever they want. It’s not because you’re doing a bad job; they might have set aside five years for your charity and now they want to change.

I went to the Philippines in January and gave out boxes. I felt very privileged to be able to do this and see the boxes they were given last year used to keep things in. The boxes in the Philippines aren’t just for the kids, they’re also for families. They share the contents.

My 15-year-old daughter came with us. It was great because she could interact with the other children, play games, do the Snapchat, Facebook thing. She’s gone again for her CAS week.

In some cases, children are growing up in a space smaller than two metres squared.

We work with the Society for Community

It’s quite overwhelming out there and it’s easy to think, “I can’t do anything”. But a little bit can really make a difference. Take John for example. He lives with his family in a bamboo house in Bacolod, Philippines. His father is a fisherman and makes around $373/monthly. John was thrilled to receive a box; he’d never gotten a present before and he was especially grateful for his blue toy truck.

Children can donate their birthday party money.

The way it works is kids can get money instead of a present, half of which they donate to Box of Hope via Twopresents. We got about $38,000 from only 20 people in the first six months of the year.

If anyone is looking to join us, we’re always looking for new volunteers. There’s also ‘Donate Now’ button on our website and we accept any donations in-kind or cash. Visit boxofhope.org. M

Get involved Boxes can be dropped off at participating schools between November 6-10 and Box of Hope’s temporary office in Exchange Square from November 6-22.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 19

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All aboard!

Hongkongers might soon be crossing the harbour in a new way. Jennifer Lee reports

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Mid-levels Magazine is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication.

The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Mid-levels Magazine cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or pubishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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he waters of Victoria Harbour may soon be getting a lot busier. The government has put forward a proposal to revive ‘water taxi’ services, as part of a wider initiative to boost flagging tourist numbers. Visitors to Hong Kong fell to 57 million last year (a drop of 4.5 percent from 2015), according to the Tourism Commission.

The proposal is part of the Commerce and Economic Development Bureau’s latest tourism development blueprint, released on October 13. It aims “to enhance the tourism characteristics of Victoria Harbour and harbourfront promenades”. If realised, Hong Kong will join the likes of cities such as New York, London, Sydney, Bangkok and Venice—all of which offer similar waterway transport services.

The new water taxis would operate longer routes than those of the existing ferry services, shuttling passengers between major tourist spots such as Central, Tsim Sha Tsui, West Kowloon and Kai Tak. Their potential revival comes almost 50 years after similar vessels ended their run across the same harbour.

These now obsolete motorboats operated in Victoria Harbour from the 19th century. Dubbed “wallawalla” by European passengers

for their noisy engines, they were cheap, available on demand and used mainly by residents and sailors. Their landing points were concentrated in some of Hong Kong’s busiest districts, including Central, Sheung Wan and Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island, and Tsim Sha Tsui, Yau Ma Tei and Tai Kok Tsui on the Kowloon Peninsula. They took a hit with the establishment of the Star Ferry in 1898, which later came to

Their potential revival comes almost 50 years after similar vessels ended their run across the same harbour

dominate the ferry service between Central and Tsim Tsa Tsui. However, even after the establishment of the Star Ferry, many commuters still relied on these on-call motorboats and they remained in use until as recently as the 1970s. They made their last run with the opening of the

Hung Hom Cross-Harbour Tunnel.

The idea of running water taxis off Kowloon and Hong Kong Island has popped up several times in the last few years, thanks in part to a series of development projects that have sprung up on the waterfront, such as the arts hub and the Island East harbourfront improvement plan, which spans from North Point to Shau Kei Wan. Water taxis were also featured in British architect Norman Foster’s design for West Kowloon, and in 2012, an unspecified international company approached the government to run a water taxi service in Victoria Harbour.

However, the less than rosy fate of the ferry industry may cast doubt over the feasibility and future of any water taxi business planning to set up shop in Hong Kong.

The Star Ferry has experienced a significant decline in patronage of its franchised ferry services since the demolition of its Central terminal (Edinburgh Place Ferry Pier) in 2006. Between 2013 and 2016 total patronage fell around 10 percent, from 59,200 passenger trips to approximately 53,400. Ferry services between Hung Hom and Central and Hung Hom and Wan Chai were dropped last year after no bidder came forward to run them.

It remains to be seen whether this plan will face a similar fate. M

MID-LEVELS.CO | 21

home & living

Home away from home

So you’re thinking about buying a property overseas, but where to begin? Shreena Patel asks the expats and the experts

The Nudds Three years ago, while on holiday at the ShangriLa in Batu Ferringhi, Penang, Kristine and Anthony Nudds went out for a stroll on a rainy afternoon and came back with an apartment.

“The development was being marketed quite heavily, so we decided to check out the show apartment as a matter of curiosity more than anything,” says Kristine, who works in PR/marketing (her husband Anthony works in finance). The couple, who moved from London to Hong Kong seven years ago, live in Sai Kung with their three children.

They bought the three-bedroom apartment in Penang with beach views off-plan for $2.5million.

After putting down an initial deposit, they are paying the rest in chunks, based on a completed stages list. It’s due to be finished next year.

“In all honesty, it was a complete impulse purchase. It is the first time we have bought off-plan. The design and location of the property appealed to us, and property is a good investment, especially as there is a lot of scope for new development in this location”—she continues—“The developers were able to provide necessary legal support and advice and the overall buying process has been very smooth.”

In the short term, the Nudds plan to use the apartment for holidays and for sharing with friends, and potentially to earn income as a

22 | MID-LEVELS.CO

holiday let. Looking further ahead, they may use it for longer periods following retirement.

“Who knows?”, says Kristine. “It’s just great to have options as our children grow up. It’s also exciting to have the opportunity to enjoy a new culture and learn more about the vibrant community in Penang.”

Kristine and her kids in Penang, earlier this year; inset: the development also houses shared facilities, including an infinity pool and gym

house and ho(me) Top 5 tips for buying abroad, by Adler Ho 1. Have your finances ready and discuss with your financial advisor/accountant/ bank prior to starting your search 2. Think about your objectives. Is this an investment or lifestyle decision, or both?

3. Be realistic about your budget and property requirements. Do you need four bedrooms or will your children soon be moving out?

4. Do your due diligence. There are many legal and tax considerations as well as risks to take into account (e.g. development risk if you are buying off-plan). Find a professional who understands your requirements and will act in your best interest 5. Be as specific as you can about your requirements. It may feel like you’re being fussy but it will help to narrow the search

An aerial view of the Penang development in which the Nudds have purchased their apartment

The purchase has also enabled the Nudds to apply for a MM2H visa (Malaysia, My Second Home) which would allow them and their children to live—but not work—in Malaysia.

“In times of uncertainty it is comforting to know that we now have an Asia back up plan”, says Kristine.

The experts In fact, Hong Kong residents appear to be increasingly investing in property abroad, as Cheuk Wong, Senior Consultant at international property investment firm IP Global, explains.

“As part of a wider global survey, we asked over 1,000 Hong Kong adults (18+) which assets they plan to invest in over the next 12 months.

13 per cent picked property abroad—twice the amount who were asked the same question in 2016. It’s also the highest of any of the countries surveyed, which included the UK, Singapore, the UAE and China.”

Wong attributes the reasons for the jump to various factors, from uncertainty surrounding the domestic Hong Kong market, to the impact of Brexit on the pound, which has created buying opportunities in the UK for USD-pegged investors.

“A growing population, supply-side shortages and a resilient local economy all

While prime central London’s property market has slowed in recent years, there are a number of undervalued locations in Outer London

combine to paint a picture of long-term stability for the UK as a whole.”

“While prime central London’s property market has slowed in recent years, there are a number of undervalued locations in Outer London, like Croydon, Sutton and Woolwich.

This is thanks, in part, to the upcoming arrival of Crossrail—a new rail link designed to make connections between the heart of London and outlying areas easier and quicker. Woolwich is a notable ‘Crossrail winner’; the borough is expected to see value growth of 39 per cent from 2016 to 2020. These undervalued areas offer an attractive entry price point compared to the centre. For example, a one-bed flat in

Adler Ho Sydney-based property consultant and passionate sailor Ho bought his first property at 19 and had bought 24 more by the time he was 30. He has over a decade of experience as an individual investor and consultant to property developers and builders. Ho’s company offers Buyers Agency services for those purchasing property in Sydney and he makes regular trips to Hong Kong to service expat clients.

Find out more at adlerho.com/services

Woolwich costs £600-700 per sq. ft. compared to a central London average of £900.”

IP Global is also looking closely at areas that are undergoing transformation, including The Royal Docks in London’s East End, which is benefiting from historic investment from China as well as a new Crossrail station opening later this year. According to Wong, properties around Custom House the Crossrail station should see house price growth of 30 per cent and rental growth of 20 per cent between 2016 and 2020.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 23

home & living The UK regional cities of Birmingham, Manchester and Liverpool are also a core focus of IP Global’s strategy, driven by greater affordability and steady economic growth. “Manchester and Liverpool are benefitting from the UK Government’s Northern Powerhouse strategy, which will encourage historic levels of investment across the North of England,” says Wong.

Of course, it’s not just the UK property market that’s drawing attention. When those in the aforementioned survey were asked which countries were most attractive as investment destinations, 30 per cent picked Japan, 21 per cent chose the UK and Australia, and 14 per cent opted for Canada. In Europe, Wong says that Berlin has become a profitable investment opportunity due in large part to a 40 per cent housing deficit and a population that is expected to grow by 400,000 by 2030. “As a city, its diversification into digital, technology and service-based sectors has led to the creation of 250,000 jobs in the last decade,” he explains.

Other markets the company is exploring include central European cities such as Vienna, Hamburg, Frankfurt and Düsseldorf. “In the US, we have also been investing in undervalued Chicago for many years,” says Wong.

Beyond market trends, it’s important to consider why you’re buying and how the property will fit into your life, in terms of finance, time, effort and lifestyle. Is it just for holidays or is it somewhere to retire? Does it offer the possibility of a second passport? Is it purely an investment?

Sydney based property consultant Adler Ho runs a buyers agency service for those

The UK holiday cottage business is competitive

purchasing properties in Sydney. “Many of our clients are Australians who are living abroad, but plan to return to Australia,” he says. “They can buy in today’s market and don’t want to be priced out when they are ready to return. In the meantime, they may be able to take advantage of tax depreciation and tax deduction benefits while renting the property out.”

On the other side of the world, Nick House has 25 years experience in the UK holiday letting market and runs his own consultancy.

“The vast majority of my clients are seeking a balance between

lifestyle considerations and a good return on their investment,” he says. “This is in marked contrast to the motivation of a buy-to-let investor who tends to be driven by rental yield maximisation alone.”

“My clients typically fit three profiles: the weekenders (families with young children living in London and seeking a bolt hole in the country for weekends and school holidays); the retirement business owners (UK entrepreneurs who are approaching retirement and want to sell their business and invest the proceeds); and the British expats.”

Do’s and don’ts in buying a second home to holiday let, by Nick House 1. Have realistic expectations on the returns. The gross rents charged will seem attractive but the margin reduces significantly after covering the high operating costs of letting including agency fees, cleaning, utility bills, fire logs, insurance, business rates and gardening. If your goal is to generate a net yield in excess of 5%, I recommend that you look elsewhere to invest your money.

2. Be prepared to spend on quality. If it is within your budget, I would urge you to buy a detached period property with a private garden and view. Buy decent furnishings and do not ship in Granny’s cast offs from a dusty attic. The holiday rental market is extremely competitive and guests are becoming increasingly discerning on style and comfort.

The incremental costs you will incur from buying towards the top of the range will be easily recouped from the higher rents and occupancy you can command.

24 | MID-LEVELS.CO

3. Put your personal preferences aside.

Satisfying the needs of the paying customer should be an overriding objective. It will be your home but it is also a commercial asset which has to earn its keep. You may have strong emotional ties to a particular area, but if it is not a well known tourist destination you will struggle to achieve a high occupancy.

4. Be flexible on releasing availability. Do not reserve all the prime dates for yourself. Resist placing too many restrictions on bookings, e.g. accept short breaks and dogs.

5. Set competitive rents. Charging high rents can earn a healthy profit margin but a poor net income if beds are empty for long periods because your property is too pricey relative to the local competition.

Nick House The aptly named House has 25 years experience of letting and managing luxury holiday property throughout the UK, which includes running two rental agencies. In 2008, he founded independent consultancy House Nouse, through which he advises clients on every aspect of buying, letting and managing holiday property.

“The benefits or using an agent like House Nouse are five-fold,” says House. “Access to market knowledge; assistance with financial planning; saved time; saved money; and good management after purchase.”

House lives near Broadway in the Cotswolds, England, with his wife Julia and their black Labrador puppy Monty.

For an initial, no obligation chat about your plans, email nick@housenouse.co.uk, housenouse.co.uk

MID-LEVELS.CO | 25

home & living “Typically, the expats have been living and working in the Far East for the past few years.

Many return to the UK at least once a year to visit family and friends, and/or to settle their children into school or university. They may already have a house in the UK but it is already let to long-term tenants. Having another home would make life so much easier, avoiding the hassle of dashing round the country to see everyone or trawling the internet to find a suitable property to rent in advance of each trip. More often than not, they are looking to buy a house to which they can retire in five to 10 years time.”

The Rutherfords Two people who have lately been considering moving back to the UK and entering the holiday cottage business are British expats Andrew Rutherford, founding partner of global branding agency Yang Rutherford, and his wife Maeve.

The couple—both from Islington, London— have lived in Hong Kong since 1995, but always with the intention of one day returning to the UK. Their son attends a school in Somerset while their two younger daughters live with them in Discovery Bay. “It’s great to give them a bit of national identity,” says Andrew. “My son now loves all things English, although it’s funny—he might be at school in England but a significant number of his classmates are from Hong Kong and mainland China.”

If the family moves, Andrew would maintain a presence in Hong Kong because of his business. “I would spend no more than 90 days in the UK each year,” he says. “Any higher and you have to pay UK taxes.”

There’s a big question over UK property prices pre-Brexit: will they hold?

But moving back to a country after 22 years is an interesting challenge. The couple’s connection to London is not what it once was.

Many of their old friends have moved out of the city, where it seems rentals returns are tighter and growth has slowed compared to the outer regions. But the Rutherfords are not ready to retire either. They maintain various property interests—including a hotel in Sri Lanka—and have been considering buying a few cottages in the UK as a short-term holiday let business.

“We’re shorter term folk at heart and the returns seemed to be higher than buying and renting out on long-term leases,” says Andrew.

26 | MID-LEVELS.CO

Three- to four-bed cottages in the UK can fetch up to £1million in desirable areas like the Cotswolds

The Rutherfords considered Cheltenham as a place to live, and the nearby Cotswolds as a place to buy the cottages. “It’s very popular with the London set and a year-round holiday spot. I was there in January and there were a lot of tourists, particularly from China and Japan,” explains Andrew.

However, further research has led them to rethink their plans.

“The current exchange rate is attractive but there are two offsetting factors,” says Andrew.

Firstly, the returns are not all that compelling— net returns look to be between three to five per cent. Do we want to be running all these cottages when the returns are not that much higher? Secondly, there’s a big question over UK property prices pre-Brexit—will they hold?”

“You can pay anything from £300,000 for a one/two bed cottage to just shy of £1 million for a three/four bed cottage in the UK—prices leap up in desirable areas like the Cotswolds.

And if you’re getting into the holiday business, you’d better choose somewhere desirable. On top of that, there are additional expenses: the marketing agency, someone to look after it and clean it, wear and tear... So you’ve got to be passionate about it. It’s also a competitive industry, so you need to offer the market either something different or something better.”

As for other options, Andrew points to some of their friends who maintain pied-à-terres in London or cottages near the schools their children attend. The properties aren’t let, but kept empty for half-terms and school holidays.

“You could easily spend hundreds of pounds a night in the UK on a hotel or B&B, so if you’re using the place for three half-terms a year, it might make sense. We’re still thinking. We might do a mixture of long-term lets and dip our toes into the cottage business.”

The Linnitts Even once you’ve decided what you want, finding it isn’t easy. If there’s anything that the numerous property shows of the 2000s taught us, it’s a) to go neutral, and b) that you usually have to compromise on one of budget, location or space. But those who are willing to renovate can widen their net.

We found that holidaying in the summer was stressful

British expats Emma and Michael Linnitt chose to purchase and renovate a house in France in the hope of making summer holidays less stressful. The couple, who have been away from the UK for 16 years (13 in Hong Kong and three in Jakarta before that), have three children,

The Linnitts purchased the property in 2007

house and ho(me)

Michael and Emma Linnitt at their French farmhouse

the eldest of whom is in the UK studying. Their two younger children attend Sha Tin College.

“Ours is the typical story of two people who leave on an adventure for a couple of years and are still away,” says Emma.

“When our parents retired they all moved away from the local area and seemed to scatter like feathers across the UK. We found that holidaying in the summer was stressful—the driving, sleeping on floors and feeling like you were getting under each other’s feet was just too difficult. Michael refused to come with us as it was no holiday for him.”

Hoping to rescue the Linnitt family holiday, Emma hatched a plan to buy a house in France—the family had holidayed in the area before and always enjoyed their visits to a school friend of hers, who lives in Burgundy.

“Houses were cheaper than in the UK and it meant we could buy somewhere big enough for us. Visiting family and the children could each have their own room and feel like it was a home away from home,” she says.

After searching online, Emma found a fivebedroom farmhouse, complete with garden, field, two barns and a pigsty. The couple got their friends to view it before taking the plunge and purchasing the property in 2007 for €230,000 (around £150,000 at the time), excluding legal fees. Emma’s friend, Rachel, became the couple’s power of attorney and did all the paperwork.

“The legal process was long winded but it all worked out,” Emma explains. “We hadn’t seen it in person until we arrived in the summer.

I bought all the furniture online, we went to IKEA on route from the airport to buy our bedding.

Our first summer was spent decorating—each relative was handed a pot of paint, a brush and expected to decorate the room they slept in!

In return we fed them and gave them wine. It worked!”

The couple are slowly renovating each

room as they have spare cash—they added a heated swimming pool, a new kitchen and new bathrooms to the property this year. On retirement, they plan to spend half their time in the UK and half in France. “We absolutely love it! We have spent a lot of money making into a home—the heated swimming pool was the best decision ever.”

Each relative was handed a pot of paint, a brush and expected to decorate the room they slept in

“Nick collected me from the station, and over a few days showed me around Malvern and answered my many questions,” says Graham.

“I found him to be a straight talker, extremely knowledgeable about the UK property market and to have a good insight into expatriate needs.”

“We ended up buying a very nice Edwardian five-bedroom house in Malvern, near to Malvern school. We considered the possibility of sending the boys to Malvern School and loved the feel of the area, its local theatre and culture. I already had a property in Cape Town but Malvern was going to be our base when we stayed in UK.” However, plans changed. “I won custody of my sons in 2012 after a difficult divorce and returned to Hong Kong,” says Graham. “We sold the house as part of the process. We actually made a small profit, even after taking into account the cost of improvements.”

Despite the fact that many of his friends live in the UK, Graham says he would never consider moving back there.

“Now, Cape Town will be our home when I eventually retire. It’s like Europe in Africa, it has everything: beautiful scenery, mountains, sea and vineyards, lots of culture and lovely temperate climate—you don’t get Typhoon 10’s there! I plan for my younger son, who is currently at boarding school in Zimbabwe, to go to UCT (Cape Town University)—he’s looking forward to it. My elder son has just finished his degree in Warwick and will be starting work in September.”

“If I had one piece of advice to give someone considering buying property abroad, it would be to get a very good local agent who can look after everything.”

The Linnitts recently registered the house with AirBNB and had three enquiries within as many hours, although they say it is very much their home first, and a rental property second.

“It’s been hard work, with some dodgy builders and a few hurdles along the way, but it’s been worth it. I’ve had moments when I thought we shouldn’t have spent the money but now we know it’s a longer term lifestyle choice, it’s the right thing for our family. It’s made summer holidays more bearable and pleasurable.”

Graham Finally, plans can change, as long-term British expat Graham knows all too well. Graham, who was born in Iraq, is a senior regional manager at a large financial services firm covering Asia. He has two sons, both of whom were educated in Hong Kong at Harrow and Kellett.

In 2010, the family bought a home in the UK through the advice of Nick House.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 27

Photo by Rosanne Yu

arts & culture

Playing a literary gig to a rapt audience

Read all about it Book lovers rejoice! Hong Kong International Literary Festival hits the city again.

Catharina Cheung and Jennifer Lee bring you the low-down

T

his month, Hong Kong spotlights 36 local and international authors for the annual Hong Kong International Literary Festival. Established in 2001, the festival is held over ten days every autumn, with a programme that includes discussions, literary lunches and dinners, readings, workshops, lectures and debates. Its roster of past authors includes names like Colm Tóibín, Seamus Heaney and Yann Martel.

This year’s festival runs from November 3 to 12, and the lineup is no less illustrious. “We’re really proud of it this year,” says festival director Phillipa Milne. “We’ve got some great names: Amy Tan, Jung Chang, Ian Rankin. Some writers are upcoming: Min Jin Lee, who’s a finalist for the National Book Award; Madeleine Thien; and Ken Liu, the sci-fi writer.”

“One of this year’s themes is crime writing. As well as Ian Rankin, we’ve got Hideo Yokoyama, a Japanese writer whose book Six Four was a bestseller in Japan. Also, British

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One of this year’s themes is crime writing.

best-selling writer Ruth Ware—all three of her books were on the New York Times Bestseller List at the same time. And Hong Kong’s own Ho-Kei Chan, author of The Borrowed. We’ve also got non-fiction writers talking about the relationship between Hong Kong and China, including Jonathan Fenby, and a couple of events focusing on the 20th anniversary of the Handover.”

“And then you’ve got the poets— international and local,” adds HKILF board member Professor Julia Kuehn. I’m always

happy when poets come because they don’t earn a huge living through their poetry. I’m really excited about Carol Ann Duffy, whose poetry is on the national curriculum in the UK.” Milne has also bookmarked a couple of events. “One writer I’m eager to see is Kamila Shamsie. She’s a Pakistani writer, now living in the UK. Her book Home Fire was long-listed for the Man Booker Prize. It’s about extremism, jihadis in the UK. I’m also looking forward to hearing from a British writer called Claire Fuller, who’s written a gorgeous book called Swimming Lessons.”

As part of the festival’s aim to promote higher levels of literacy in Hong Kong and nurture globally engaged citizens, it has as one of its key components the Young Reader’s Festival that is held every March. Founded seven years ago, this is aimed at students aged 14 and up, and gives them a chance to interact with festival authors through talks and workshops in schools across Hong Kong. “It’s absolutely vital that we don’t

book now

Literature is political—it can’t exist in the ivory tower, something you only deal with at school and then forget about

political and very important.”

“And on another level, it’s just really fun to read a book and get in a room full of people who’ve read the book and want to discuss it,” adds Milne. “One of my favourite moments of the past few years was an event we held at HKU with North Korean defector Hyeonseo Lee. She talked about her book which detailed her escape from North Korea. The room was packed with 300 people listening silently, some on the stairs.

It was such a diverse audience—all age groups, races, men, women. Everyone was fascinated to hear this amazing story of bravery. I think it’s vital world cities have their own literary festivals, to provide a platform for local writers, to connect local and international writers and for people to discuss ideas in an open, free way. But funding is an issue. We’re a registered charity, so we have to fundraise every year to make sure the festival can exist, grow and flourish. So I suppose fundamentally what we want is more money please!”

In conversation with...

Madeleine Thien, author What are the key themes and ideas in your work?

Someone else might answer this better than me, but from my very partial viewpoint, some themes are personhood, the making of art, the ways we silence ourselves, the persuasive power of revolution, and both the malleability of desire and desire’s persistence.

Photo by Babak Salari

just go to the international schools,” says Kuehn, “but that we also go to the local schools that otherwise wouldn’t have access to international children’s writers and illustrators.” “It’s a really lovely opportunity for the students to meet a real life writer, someone who does it for a living,” adds Milne.

Where do Milne and Kuehn want to go from here? Both agree the answer is up, up and away.

“We’d like to grow,” says Kuehn. “We want as many people in Hong Kong—expats, locals and visitors—to come through the doors of one of the events and get together to talk freely about books, ideas or areas they want to learn more about. We want it to become part of the Hong Kong calendar.

“In many ways the festival has become more ideas-centred,” said Kuehn. “We’re in such an important place at such an important time, so certain things just require discussion—whether it’s the rise of Asia, the rise of China, freedom of expression, whatever it may be. Because literature is political—it can’t exist in the ivory tower, something you only deal with at school and then forget about. I think all of our authors know that what they’re doing is inherently very

You are of Chinese heritage but have grown up away from Asia. How do you think that has affected the way you write about Chinese themes and characters?

Cantonese, Hakka and English are all spoken within my family and I’ve spent a lot of time over the past decade in Hong Kong, China and Cambodia. I’ve experienced all these places as ongoing and connected, folded into each other, rather than as distant points on a map. I hope that my novels are marked by the polyphony of many languages and voices.

You’ve written short stories as well as novels. What would you say are the key differences and challenges in both?

Characters, ideas, language, cadence—they shape the structure, which grows from these ways of thinking. Novels require a different kind of stamina and risk taking. One can almost imagine holding a story in one’s hand, whereas the novel is this vast world you’re trying to balance on the top of your head.

Are you hopeful about Hong Kong’s literary scene?

Always. Hong Kong is a place of ferment, risk, openness and renewal. The city is changing rapidly, and is up against enormous challenges. Any place which, like Hong Kong, is thinking deeply about its future needs literature, because literature is an act of listening and imagining, attuned to both past and future.

Any advice you’d give to aspiring writers in Hong Kong?

Keep writing, keep trying to find the language to illumine the societies you observe and the ones to come.

You’ve written about the Khmer Rouge regime and the Cultural Revolution and Tiananmen in China— what other topics would you like to explore in future works?

I have ongoing questions about how individuals are born and reborn in their times, due to politics, perhaps, or to shifts in culture, language, morality, taboos, or social structure. I have this idea that people are constantly making and remaking one another (the world invents us), and meanwhile individuals are also trying to live a life that is theirs alone, a life that is not contained by the times in which they were born (we invent the world). So I’m still looking for a shape to hold this kind of story.

How do you think Hong Kong’s full return to China in 2047 will impact local literature and arts?

I think writers and artists will continue to face many challenges in terms of both the creation of art, and the dissemination of their work. Literature will have to be adaptive, bold and courageous in order to find different modes, languages and registers to express the complexity of this place. We need to sustain the reading culture, to make space for publishers and booksellers—the entire reading ecosystem—that may be operating at the margins.

Why do you think events like the Hong Kong International Literary Festival are important?

The events give us a space in which to listen, to converse, to laugh together, and also to mourn together. Our ideas come to life when we hold them up in the public space, where they can be challenged, questioned and re-examined.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 29

Photo by Rosanne Yu

arts & culture

An in-depth conversation about all things literary

Highlights NOV 3

Dinner with Ian Rankin When Ian Rankin sat down to write what would become the first Inspector Rebus book, the young PhD student wasn’t intending to write a crime novel—and he certainly never imagined

the publishing juggernaut that would grow up around his gruff Scottish detective. Since then, Rankin’s works have sold more than 30 million copies, been adapted for television and radio, and earned Rankin a place in the pantheon of great British mystery authors. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to enjoy an intimate dinner at Pomegranate private kitchen with Rankin as he discusses his indelible characters and celebrated career.

7:30-10:30pm, Pomegranate Kitchen. $1,200, ticket includes dinner with wine.

NOV 4

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NOV 4

A Hong Kong Crime Scene In The Borrowed, Chan Ho-kei’s third book and the first to be translated into English, we follow Hong Kong detective Kwan Chun-dok across several decades and through various pivotal historical moments, from the 1989 Tiananmen Square massacre to the 1997 handover, up to the present day when Kwan is asked to solve his final case—the murder of a local billionaire.

Chan talks to Albert Tam about his career and what makes Hong Kong a compelling setting for crime fiction. 2-3pm, naked Hub. $100.

20 Years of Hong Kong Verse

NOV 5

In this panel, local poets Louise Ho, Nicholas Wong, Michael O’Sullivan and Chris Song will join moderator Tammy Ho Lai-Ming for a discussion of Hong Kong poetry in the 20 years since the handover. What is Hong Kong poetry? Who is writing it? What is it about?

What are the restrictions and possibilities?

Does Hong Kong require a particular kind of articulation? How can poets and readers cross the boundary between Chinese-language and English-language verse?

12:30-1:30pm, naked Hub. $100.

2017 marks 30 years of Ian Rankin’s legendary Scottish sleuth, Inspector John Rebus.After 21 books, Rankin is the single biggest-selling British crime author. So why does Rebus, the morose, hard-drinking loner, resonate with so many readers worldwide? Here, Rankin sits down with Stephen Vines to talk about his career, his latest book, Rather Be the Devil, and what the future holds for Rebus.

4-5pm, Wang Gungwu Theatre, Graduate House, University of Hong Kong. $125.

30 Years of Rebus with Ian Rankin

book now NOV 6

Amy Tan: Where the Past Begins

Photo by Julian Johnson

Amy Tan returns to the childhood memories that formed the emotional nucleus of her beloved novels in her memoir, Where the Past Begins. Due for release in October, the memoir offers a composite portrait of Tan woven out of long-forgotten memories and boxes of journals, letters and other family memorabilia.

Duncan Clark will lead Tan in a conversation about her life as a writer, her craft and the origins of her creative impulse.

7-8:30pm, Wang Gungwu Theatre, Graduate House, University of Hong Kong. $125.

John Sampson and Carol Ann Duffy

work: Dear Hong Kong, a memoir written in the form of a “Dear John” letter to Hong Kong, and Interruptions, an ekphrastic essay collection in conversation.

6:30-7:30pm, Upstairs, Fringe Club. $100.

NOV 8

Madeleine Thien: Do Not Say We Have Nothing

NOV 7

Xu Xi: From Fiction to Nonfiction

Winner of Canada’s most prestigious literary award, the Scotiabank Giller Prize, Do Not Say We Have Nothing follows three talented musicians who meet at the Shanghai Music Conservatory in the early 1960s, just as the stormclouds of the Cultural Revolution are gathering on the horizon. Author Madeleine Thien speaks with Melanie Ho about her novel and about writing history’s grand tragedies on an intimate scale.

8-9pm, Upstairs, Fringe Club. $100.

Often described as a “transnational” author, Xu Xi—Indonesian-Chinese, HK-raised, USeducated—writes with first-hand knowledge of the insider-outsider’s experience in Hong Kong. She talks about her two most recent works, departures from her previous fiction

NOV 12

City of Protest Join Hong Kong-based lawyer and writer Antony Dapiran for an in-depth conversation on his book, City of Protest, which was released earlier this year as part of the Penguin Hong Kong series. In City of Protest, Dapiran illuminates the cultural and structural forces behind Hong Kong’s public protests, placing 2014’s Occupy Movement and 2016’s “Fishball Riots” in Mong Kok in a broader historical context. Narrated by Natasha Khan.

12:30-1pm, Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences. $100. M

NOV 9

Photo by Paul Hilton

Carol Ann Duffy and John Sampson Much-loved British Poet Laureate Carol Ann Duffy brings her 14-year-long collaboration with court musician John Sampson to the HKILF. Duffy will read from her Collected Poems, comprising works from The World’s Wife, Rapture and The Bees, whilst Sampson plays an array of fascinating period and modern instruments. This delightful interplay of thoughtprovoking poetry and exuberant music will make for a unique evening not to be missed.

7-8pm, Upstairs, Fringe Club. $125.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 31

eating

A hairy situation Catharina Cheung investigates the annual rush for hairy crabs

S

imilar to the annual craze for pumpkin spice lattes in the Western nations, for about two months every autumn, multitudes in Asia go absolutely bonkers for hairy crabs. And we all know Hong Kong foodies are second to none when it comes to obsessing over edibles. Some even deliberately make week-long pilgrimages to China where they can feast right at the crabs’ watery homes. If you’re scoffing at making travel plans just for a few decapods, or just starting to dip your toes in the hairy crab game, fear not: Hong Kong restaurants have plenty of top quality offerings. Read on and find out why the city loves these hirsute crustaceans.

to push their views onto you, but it’s all a matter of personal taste. The bright orange roe from female crabs hardens a little after cooking, while the golden essence from male crabs has a stickier texture likened to salted egg yolk. Both versions are delicious, and are the cornerstone of this culinary furour.

These crabs have been considered a delicacy for hundreds of years. The 17th century playwright Li Yu once famously gushed in writing, “I can’t even begin to describe or make clear why I love them, why I adore their sweet taste, and why I can never forget them… Dear crab, dear crab, you and I, are we to be lifelong companions?”

What is a hairy crab?

How do I eat hairy crabs?

Don’t be put off by its name; hairy crabs are actually Chinese mitten crabs, the moniker refers to the fuzzy bristles on its fore claws.

They are native to the Chinese coastal regions in the east. Specimens reared in Yangcheng Lake near Suzhou and Hangzhou are the most prized because they are said to taste so fresh and sweet that no accompanying condiments are required.

Confusingly, purebred hairy crabs are actually a Dutch variety, brought over to Holland years ago by Chinese ships and left in its waters.

The species from China are all mixed breeds now. Both vary in taste; the purebreds are more mild and delicate in taste and the roe is more of a yellow green, while the mixed breeds have a stronger flavour and contain roe that is more orange.

We won’t lie, consuming hairy crabs is an intricate and often messy process, but the results are more than worth it. As food writer Fuchsia Dunlop says, “you cannot avoid a tussle with shell and flesh: crunch, suck, crack, lick, probe, slurp.”

First, the crab should be flipped over and the underbelly armour segment prized out (if the segment is vaguely triangular it’s a male, if it is circular it’s female). Open the top shell to get to the rich roe hidden underneath, then break the rest of the body in half for easy access with seafood scissors and crab forks. Don’t forget the succulent morsels in the claws and legs! It all sounds fairly grim and daunting, but most restaurants will do majority of the hard work for you.

One thing to keep in mind is that according to Chinese medicine, crabs are a ‘cold’ or ‘cooling’ food—a concept related more to yin and yang than to actual temperature. They should therefore never been eaten in conjunction with other ‘cold’ foods such as bamboo shoots, lotus roots, bitter gourd, or pomelo. In particular, eating it with persimmons is thought to be a toxic combination. The heart, gills and stomach of the crab should also be discarded as they are supposedly even ‘colder’ than the flesh. To combat the ‘coolness’, you need to balance it with ‘warming’ and ‘heaty’ foods, so hairy crabs are often dipped in ginger- and red sugar-infused Zhenjiang vinegar, and accompanied with Shaoxing wine or ginger tea.

Purebred hairy crabs are actually a Dutch variety, brought over to Holland years ago by Chinese ships and left in its waters

Female crabs ripen first, around the ninth lunar month, while male crabs peak approximately a month later. There is plenty of debate surrounding the question of which sex of crab is the best to eat, and no doubt you will encounter opinionated enthusiasts who will try

32 | MID-LEVELS.CO

Anything else I should know?

This year, there will most likely be a shortage of crabs from the famous Yangcheng Lake and Tai Lake. The mainland Chinese authorities

have a more relaxed stance towards food safety standards than Hong Kong’s Food and Environmental Hygiene Department. Last year’s crab samples from Tai Lake were found to have an excessive level of dioxin, a type of carcinogen, so Hong Kong authorities have clamped down even tighter on examination standards this year. Many mainland aquafarms are finding our export regulations too stringent and complicated—all hairy crab businesses have to provide veterinary and health certificates for their exports to Hong Kong, as well as pass our local dioxin testing—and are considering not exporting to our shores.

Expect to find more Dutch and Japanese varieties this year, which are no less delicious in our opinion and also safer to consume.

crab a bite What if I don’t want to splurge on eating out?

You can always buy hairy crabs and cook them yourself. Leaving their bonds intact, rinse the crabs well under running water then steam for 15-20 minutes. It is important to place them belly up on a dish to prevent the cooked roe from leaking out. You can also add a traditional Shanghainese touch by adding perilla leaves in the water to bring out the crab’s natural flavours.

Make your own dipping sauce by mixing Zhenjiang vinegar with red sugar and a dash of soy sauce, garnished with ginger slivers. Don’t forget the warming Shaoxing huadiao wine, and while there’s no real need to splash out on the best 30 year old stuff, purchase a vintage that is at least eight years old. You can also buy a few pieces of dried plum to go with the liquor at any Chinese grocer—tell them you’re going to have it with rice wine and they should know what to bring you. The wine can either be served warm like Japanese sake or consumed as is. Drink the good stuff on its own, but if you’ve chosen to just try a normal grade wine, you can also boil the plums in the liquor for a little while to enhance the flavour.

Old San Yang A well-known Shanghainese grocery,

Where can I eat hairy crabs?

There are enough restaurants which serve hairy crabs to make your head spin, but according to a local foodie and socialite known only by his first name Brian, here are some of the best in the 852. Depending on provenance, establishments charge anywhere between $150 to close to $1,000 per crab.

Man Wah 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Road Central Man Ho Chinese Restaurant 3/F, JW Marriott Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty

Old San Yang carries a wide range of foodstuff from Shanghai, including jinhua Chinese ham, Shanghainese zongzi dumplings, and preserves. Their hairy crabs retail for slightly above or below the $200 price mark each, and staff are willingly to teach you how to cook them properly. G/F, 4 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay M

Victoria City 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai Kanizen 3 Thomson Road, Wanchai Wah Kee Wing Cheong Ho 460 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay

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Please send your CV, and an email to tom@hongkongliving.com You must be: a native English speaker/ a Hong Kong resident/ available immediately

MID-LEVELS.CO | 33

travel

Paradise found

Above: Four Seasons at Anahita ; Below: Le Caudan Waterfront

Shreena Patel heads to Mauritius

I

f you were to look at a map of the world you would see the island of Mauritius as a very small dot in the Indian Ocean. But size isn’t everything.

As the plane from Hong Kong descends slowly beneath the clouds, the island’s jagged mountains, green fields and sparkling turquoise waters emerge like something out of a Jules Verne novel.

Over the next week, I explore a few of the island’s most idyllic holiday spots, learn a little of the history that has produced such a rich cultural mix, and find out how Mauritius is positioning itself for the future.

Mauritius had been known to Arab sailors as early as 900 AD. They named it Dina Arobi (Abandoned Island). However, their priority was to trade and given the perilous journey, they—like others who came across it—saw little advantage establishing a permanent settlement.

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Thus, Mauritius lay relatively undisturbed until the end of the fifteenth century, the dawn of Europe’s age of exploration.

Portugal was eager to find a sea route to the East—thereby bypassing the Silk Road— that would allow it to extract the region’s treasures, most notably spices. It succeeded in 1498, when Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama became the first person to sail directly from Europe to India. His route, via the Indian Ocean, was followed by exploratory

Mauritius had been known to Arab sailors as early as 900AD

expeditions and it was upon one of these that, in 1507, Portuguese navigator Diogo Fernandes Pereira stumbled across what would become known as the Mascarene islands (present-day Mauritius, Réunion and Rodrigues).

The Portuguese used Mauritius as a port of call when sailing to and from the East. The island began to appear on European maps—at first under its Arab name and later as Ilha do Cirne (Swan Island, named after Pereira’s ship, “Cirne”).

Mauritius’ present-day name is thanks to the Dutch, who established the first permanent settlement in 1598 and named it after Prince Maurice of Nassau. The Dutch also introduced

island life sugar cane plants which came from Java, Indonesia, which they used to make rum. The arrival of humans on the island sealed the fate of the Dodo—a big, flightless bird that until then had enjoyed an absence of predators and proved all too easy to catch. In 1710, the Dutch abandoned the island in favour of the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa.

Five years later, the French arrived and renamed Mauritus Île de France. It was under the French that Port Louis harbour was built. The French cultivated the sugar cane plantations to enable the production and export of sugar as well as rum. Trade boomed.

As the 18th century drew to a close, the British were becoming increasingly agitated by this French foothold in the Indian Ocean.

There were two reasons for this: firstly, French privateers stationed in Mauritius were launching frequent attacks on British merchant vessels travelling to and from India; secondly, the British feared the island’s potential as springboard from which the French might launch assaults on Britain’s interests in India.

As William Pitt (who would later become British Prime Minister) put it, “As long as the French hold the Île de France, the British will never be masters of India.”

Eventually, the British Royal Navy launched a military campaign and in 1810 the British conquered the Mascarenes. In 1833, the British abolished slavery in the colonies and needed to establish a new system of recruitment for a much needed workforce.

Enter “indentured labourers”—men and women who signed a contract by which they agreed to work for a certain number of years in return for transportation (in this case, to Mauritius) and—upon their arrival—food,

The Natural History Museum

clothing and shelter. On the face of it, this was free labour not slave labour, but the reality was often much more exploitative.

The arrival of humans on the island sealed the fate of the Dodo

Indentured labourers were imported as early as 1826, but large-scale importation ran from 1834 to 1922, what the British Government called the “Great Experiment”.

During this period, some 462,000 indentured labourers arrived in Mauritius, 95 percent of whom were from India, with others coming from China, the Comoros, Madagascar,

Mozambique, South East Asia and Yemen.

Some eventually returned home or emigrated to other colonies, but many settled in Mauritius. An estimated 70 percent of the current population is descended from these labourers.

Mauritius gained its independence in 1968.

Since then, it has diversified from a lowincome economy highly dependent on sugar to focus more on manufacturing and services, achieving one of the highest per capita incomes in Africa. Major industries include tourism, clothing textiles, sugar, offshore banking and financial services, seafood and ICT. Sugarcane still occupies 90 per cent of the country’s cultivated land but represents only 15 per cent of exports.

In the last few years, the Mauritian government has launched a number of economic incentives to attract industry, including a film rebate scheme. Capitalising on the island’s outstanding natural beauty,

April 18.

“This is the only country in the world where the stranger is not asked “How do you like this place?” This is indeed a large distinction. Here the citizen does the talking about the country himself; the stranger is not asked to help. You get all sorts of information. From one citizen you gather the idea that Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius. Another one tells you that this is an exaggeration; that the two chief villages, Port Louis and Curepipe, fall short of heavenly perfection; that nobody lives in Port Louis except upon compulsion, and that Curepipe is the wettest and rainiest place in the world.”

—Mark Twain’s musings on Mauritius in Following the Equator (1897), in which he chronicled his journey through the British Empire two years earlier.

Port Louis Harbour

MID-LEVELS.CO | 35

travel

The Central Market

This initiative is one of several projects that aim to modernise the island’s infrastructure— another is a light rail system, for which construction began in September.

The population is multiethnic, multireligious (Hinduism is the largest religion) and multilingual. Most people I encounter speak at least three languages: Creole, French and English. “The official language of the courts and of government is English, but our newspapers are in French and we speak Creole,” explains one islander. Mauritius is home to a host of wildlife, with many species endemic to the island.

Most visitors come from the EU, primarily the UK, but I’m told the number has declined as a result of Brexit and the weaker pound.

Overall tourist numbers have been buoyed by an increasing number of visitors from Asia, particularly mainland China and Hong Kong— direct flights operate from both regions.

This month, the International Kreol Festival takes place from November 17-26, with a series of events and activities to celebrate creole culture through music, arts, language and food.

When to go

The craft market

the government offers movie producers up to a 40 per cent rebate on filming expenditures.

Mauritius has already served as the backdrop for a number of Bollywood films, but this year Serenity became the first major Hollywood film to shoot on the island.

Most people I encounter speak at least three languages

A year-round holiday destination. A relatively dry winter from June to September, with lows of 17C and highs of around 25C during the day. Summer is a hotter and more humid affair (lows of 20C, highs of 29C).

October and May are the transitional months.

What to do I highly recommend a day or two in the capital, Port Louis, to learn about the island—it’s a small city and very walkable.

The Blue Penny Museum, by the water, is a great place to start. It provides just enough historical context without overwhelming visitors. The section on the development of the postal service is a little niche, but don’t forget to catch a glimpse of the 1847 Blue Penny and

Thanks to its large waters, Mauritius also claims an Exclusive Economic Zone of 1.9 million square kilometers, one of the 25 largest in the world. Its government has said it wants to transform Mauritius “from an island state into an ocean state” through the development of ocean-related industries, from seabed exploration for hydrocarbon and minerals, to port-related activities.

The Prime Minister has also announced the creation of a second passenger terminal in 2019 (scheduled to be completed by 2020).

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Port Louis Theatre

Red Penny stamps, among the rarest stamps in the world. There’s also a section dedicated to Paul et Virginie, a famous novel published in 1788 and set in Mauritius during French rule.

From there, walk along Le Caudan Waterfront, filled with a variety of shops, cafes, restaurants and a craft market.

Walk up Place d’Armes, a boulevard lined with royal palms, which leads up to Government House (spot the statue of Queen Victoria outside). Nearby, you will also find the Natural History Museum, which houses a dodo skeleton, and the Port Louis Municipal Theatre.

Head further inland to Fort Adelaide, a hilltop fortress built by the British—the old barracks have been replaced by little boutiques.

Back at the waterfront, visit UNESCO World Heritage Site Aapravasi Ghat, the site at which interned labourers first came ashore and which now chronicles their struggles.

On your way back to the town centre, pass by the Central Market or Chinatown and pick up a tasty local snack.

The wider island has some beautiful places to explore.

• Visit the Hindu pilgrimage site of Grand Bassin (the Sacred Lake)—in the crater of an extinct volcano, 1,800 feet above sea level.

• Explore the Black River Gorges National Park, with views across the island and out to the Indian Ocean.

• Visit Eureka House, a 200-year-old creole mansion and former sugar plantation.

• Bike or hike through Domaine de l’Etoile, a beautiful nature reserve with protected flora and fauna and plenty of fun activities.

• Find out how to turn sugarcane into rum at Rhumerie de Chamarel and try a range of flavours, from spices, to vanilla, to coconut.

Did you know…?

In 2016, the highest value product exported from Mauritius was prepared or preserved tuna, skipjack and bonito—worth a total of US$ 246,074.88 million (source: World Bank) Place d’Armes

island life

Where to stay

Maradiva Villas Resort and Spa

Be coust fo ple r s

Maradiva is not just a resort, it’s more of a luxury club. CEO Sanjiv Ramdanee is somewhat of a connoisseur of luxury and a very well-connected man. His team offers highly original experiences, including swimming with wild dolphins, daytrips to see the active volcano on Réunion and cruising round the island in one of the resort’s two Rolls Royces (a white Phantom and a black Ghost). These things come at an extra cost, but what Maradiva offers is the flexibility to make it happen—be it a night of partying with the entire cast of Moulin Rouge, or the lifelong dream of a female Russian guest to ride naked on a white horse at dawn (both true stories).

In fact the resort will officially launch its own private members club later this year.

Amongst other privileges, members can enjoy insider access to events and award shows across the sports, film, arts, food and fashion industries. This month, the resort launches the first of its ‘Artist in Residence’ projects.

Renowned Indian artist Professor Satish Gupta will be exhibiting its art at the resort. During his stay, he will create two new pieces, one of which will be auctioned for charity.

Back to the resort itself, the team behind Maradiva decided not to pack in as many villas as possible into the grounds, but focus on making each as luxurious as possible. Inspired by the colonial residences of the sugarcane plantation owners, the 65 (recently refurbished) villas range from a one-bedroom Garden Suite Pool Villa to a beachfront Presidential Suite Pool Villa which can accommodate up to four adults, two extra beds and a cot. All

A wonderful retreat thanks to a spectacular beachfront setting, attention to detail and independent management which affords great flexibility.

are huge by any standards and palatial by those of Hong Kong. My favourite areas are the bathroom—complete with walk-in closet and outdoor shower—and the back garden, which houses a virtual outdoor living room and private plunge pool. Set back from a 750-metre long, private beach, you can catch glimpses of the ocean from the garden and it’s just a short barefoot walk to soft sand and gently foaming waves.

The hotel is a popular spot for couples, and it’s no wonder—the sunset is beautiful, there’s a well-stocked bar, it never feels crowded and there is an award-winning spa on site. There are tennis courts, an excellent gym,

and various watersports are available including complimentary waterskiing and snorkelling trips. For those with children aged 4 to 12, fear not—the Mini Club is available and has plenty to keep kids busy, including organised activities, a playground area, shallow pool and sand pit. Babysitting services are also available at a nominal fee with 24-hours notice.

As to the food, the three restaurants on site encompass international, Indian (my favourite) and Japanese teppanyaki and live music plays at the first two. Where possible, meals are cooked using some ingredients from the resort’s own organic farm, across the road.

Cooking lessons and private candlelit dinners are available at an extra cost. Guests can also dine in the three restaurants of the sister resort, Sands Suites Resort and Spa.

Book your stay Location: West coast, Flic en Flac Nightly rate: One-bedroom Luxury Suite Pool Villas start at $7,750 per night on a half board basis (breakfast and dinner included).

The resort has 26 villas available for sale, starting at US$650,000 each.

Contact: call (+230) 403 15 00, email info@maradiva.com, maradiva.com

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travel

Four Seasons Resort at Anahita

lu x Mos ur t iou

s

Set on the shores of a spectacular natural lagoon, the Four Seasons is cleverly designed to allow different groups (families, couples, etc…) to enjoy the resort without getting under each others’ feet. Buggies are available on demand to whisk guests around the resort— individual bicycles are also free to use within the grounds.

The villas are spacious, private and beautifully appointed. Each has its own plunge pool, private garden and outdoor shower and many have views of the surrounding lagoon.

Ideally positioned plants and walls provide privacy without looking out of place. The use of natural materials and open-air architecture creates a smooth flow between the indoors and outdoors.

Luxurious, professional and attentive service you would expect from any Four Seasons property but with a uniquely Mauritian feel thanks to its stunning location.

The 60 one-bedroom low-rise villas all sit on the resort’s private island Isle Aux Chats, giving it a quieter, more couple-friendly atmosphere.

Larger groups staying together can rent one of the Residence Villas—these are owned by private individuals but managed by the hotel when not in use. The jewel in the crown is the Presidential Suite Sanctuary, an opulent three-bedroom villa, with panoramic lagoon views and its own private terrace with heated

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swimming pool and daybed pavilion—amongst other luxuries.

A particular attraction of the resort is the complimentary and unlimited golf for all guests on a beautiful, ocean-front course designed by Ernie Els. If golf doesn’t take your fancy, there are also two tennis courts, a fitness centre with steam rooms and an aerobics studio, yoga pavilion and four communal pools—including a lap pool and kids’ pool. All non-motorized watersports are complimentary, from sailing, to windsurfing, to SUPing, and more. The shallow waters of the lagoon are ideal for trying out these activities—find the boathouse at Bambou beach. There’s also a complimentary boat shuttle from here to the nearby Ile aux Cerfs, which is not part of the resort but has more watersports and restaurants.

For something more sedate, head to the library and cultural centre where you can bone up on the island’s history, relax in the spa, laze on one of the three private beaches or browse the bridge of boutiques—don’t miss the four giant aldabra tortoises whose little patch of turf lies just in front of the bridge.

There’s little in the immediate vicinity to warrant you venturing out of the resort, but off-site activities (racing through the sugarcane fields on the back of a quad bike, skydiving, deep sea fishing, you name it) can be arranged at an extra cost.

If you’ve got little ones in tow, the supervised children’s program at the Hobbit Village Kids’ Club might come in handy. For children aged 10 and above, the Karokan centre

houses a DJ booth, computers, table tennis and pool facilities.

The resort has three waterfront restaurants to choose from, encompassing mainly European but also international (largely Asian) cuisine. À la carte menus are complemented by a selection of theme nights—don’t miss the BBQ seafood buffet dinner at Bambou with local live musical entertainment. The standout offering is breakfast, served at fine-dining French bistro Beau Champ. It is mixture of à la carte and buffet, with freshly made juices, crepes and baked goods—try the Mauritian inspired options, including the creole omelette.

Private cooking classes and romantic dinners on the lagoon, in the wine cellar or by candlelight on the beach are also available at extra cost.

Book your stay Location: East coast, Beau Champ. Airport transfers available in the Resort’s SUV, by boat or by helicopter.

Nightly rate: One-bedroom Garden Villas from $5,870 per night in low season (select periods from April to September); rising to $16,000 in high (last week of December, first week of January), including breakfast and golf. Free Wi-Fi. Rates also available on half board basis. Sale prices for Residence Villas start at US$2million for a two-bedroom Garden Residence Villa.

Contact: call (+230) 402 31 31, fourseasons.com/mauritius

island life

Shangri-La Le Touessrok Resort and Spa

B a c e s t fo t iv itie r s

Spanning 34 acres of beachfront, the ShangriLa Le Touessrok really packs it in.

There are four restaurants to choose from, three beaches, three bars, a spa (with Mauritian inspired treatments, including a rather brisk sounding sugarcane baton massage) and leisure facilities—a fitness centre, two swimming pools, tennis courts and a kids’ club. That’s not to mention the resort’s private island Îlot Mangénie—with secluded forest, 3.5km of pristine beach, private cabanas and butlers—or the championship golf course on nearby Île aux Cerfs. Guests receive complimentary green fees and you don’t have to be a golfer to visit the Clubhouse, which overlooks the 18th hole.

Waiters whiz along the sand on segways, delivering fruit skewers and cocktails to sunbathing guests. Meanwhile, more active souls attempt the array of complimentary nonmotorized watersports in the safety of the bay.

Originally the secondary (island) residence of a Mauritian family, Le Touessrok began public life as a restaurant in the 1970s. Under the helm of the owners’ granddaughter Jacqueline Dalais, a few rooms were added (handy for diners who’d had a bit too much of the local rum and needed a place to stay overnight). After a few memorable parties, word spread and soon the operation expanded into a fully fledged hotel, taking over the neighbouring sugar plantation.

Mauritian heritage and spectacular surroundings combine with a multimillion dollar makeover and Shangri-La’s renowned hospitality to create this popular resort

Shangri-La took over in 2015 with big plans and an even bigger cash injection.

Today, the resort has 200 sea-facing guestrooms and suites and three beach villas.

Three distinct areas of accommodation cater to different groups. The Coral wing, comprises the resort’s starting room categories. The Hibiscus wing is designed especially for families and groups, with optional interconnecting rooms and easy access to the main beach and pool. Set on its own tranquil peninsula, the Frangipani wing is great for couples, with an adults-only heated pool, free minibar and cocoon-like bathtub in each room, and champagne on arrival. It is also home to Republik Beach Club & Grill, which offers a complimentary daily happy hour to all Frangipani guests. Republik spills out onto the beach with daybeds, sunken seating, fire pits and beanbags. There is regular live music, theme nights and performances by local and international DJs—don’t miss the fireworks display every Sunday from 10pm.

For the most luxurious accommodation on offer, take a look at the beach villas.

Separated from the rest of the accommodation

(ahem, riffraff), they are designed to feel like homes rather than hotel rooms, benefitting from 24-hour butler service, a private chef, private infinity pool and private beach access.

Villa guests can also move around the resort without the need to actually walk thanks to a dedicated electric car.

In addition to guests, three giant tortoises call this place home, the oldest of whom is 108 years old. Take the kids to say hello on the way to the T-Club, where those aged 4 to 11 can take part in activities which encourage them to engage with the surrounding habitat.

The Active T-Club hosts social activities for 12-17-year-olds, open until 10:30pm.

Foodwise, all-day dining restaurant Le Bazar offers an astounding array of Asian and international cuisine in a buffet format.

For something less crowded, try Japanese restaurant Kushi—which has yakiniku grills at each table—or Safran, which serves Mauritian inspired Indian cuisine. Republik offers Mediterranean cuisine and barbecue grills.

After dinner, head to Sega Bar, which houses a collection of Mauritian rums and stages nightly cultural shows featuring local talents, seggae music and a live jazz and blues band. M

Book your stay Location: East coast, Trou d’Eau Douce Bay Nightly rate: Deluxe Ocean View Rooms in the Coral Wing start at $2,780 for two persons, bed and breakfast (excl. 15% VAT) Contact: (+230) 402 7400, shangri-la.com/mauritius The resort is also available to book via Charlotte Travel, a Hong Kong based award-winning family-run boutique travel agency. Call 2110 6070 or visit charlottetravel.com.hk

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picture this

Painting of the month: Sketches of Hong Kong

by T.K. Justin Ng

60 seconds with the artist.

Tell me about yourself.

How long have you been painting?

What’s the story behind this picture?

I am an architecture student from Hong Kong, currently studying in Canada. I am fascinated by the urban fabric and enjoy the appreciation of architecture and culture through drawing.

I have been drawing all my life but I only started taking it more seriously in high school where I was exposed to a broader understanding of art. I began sketching on location in the summer of 2013 and I have been sketching the places I visit ever since.

I typically come home to Hong Kong once a year and both of these sketches were drawn last summer during my two-week stay. The city changes a lot every time I return and it is always difficult to decide what I want to sketch. The skyline was drawn from my grandparents’ balcony to shelter myself from the heat. Who knows, maybe in a couple years, a few new buildings will pop up and this view will be lost. The second sketch was drawn with friends at the wet markets in Central, a part of the city that I appreciate more each time I visit.

Describe yourself in three words.

Student, aspiring architect, flaneur.

How would you describe your style?

Where do you live?

Nowadays, I spend most of my time near Toronto but I was raised in Hong Kong. I also travel quite a lot through my internships, having worked in Helsinki and Vancouver.

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I find style a double edged sword, especially given my age. On one hand, a style allows me to distinguish myself from others, yet it also prevents me from pushing myself further. At the moment, I sketch with clean ink lines and vibrant watercolours but I would like to believe that my answer will be different in a few years.

sketchy business

I find style a double-edged sword, especially given my age

What are you trying to show?

I try to show the character and atmosphere of such a dense and vibrant city.

Where would you like to paint next?

I would love to draw a couple important places to me like my room, the schools I went to and the street I lived on.

Where can we find more of your paintings?

I like posting my work onto my Instagram account @tkjustinng but some are also on my website, tkjustinng.com

Is there anything you’d like to add?

I recently published my first book in Finland filled with my sketches during my time there.

You can find out more on my website. M

Have you painted Hong Kong?

Each month we feature a painting of Hong Kong and a 60-second interview with the artist who created it. If you’d like to be featured, email editorial@hongkongliving.com

WWW.MID-LEVELS.CO | 41

Horoscopes

hong kong horoscopes

AQUARIUS Jan 21 – Feb 19

PISCES Feb 20 – Mar 20

ARIES Mar 21 – Apr 20

TAURUS Apr 21 – May 21

When you go for Peking duck in a restaurant, they’ll bring out the duck and carve off all that delicious crispy skin—but then the rest is spirited away, never to be seen again. That’s why I always make sure to ask to take rest of the duck home: there’s so much more goodness left over that people forget about.

Make sure you’re always asking for the extra duck, Aquarius.

The outlet shops of Fa Yuen Street are a treasure trove. They’re stuffed with entertaining t-shirts, great fashion and fantastic accessories. The only problem? Those finds are buried among mountains of crap. Listen up, Pisces: in Fa Yuen Street, as in life, you can find the hidden gems—but you have to be prepared to go looking.

Shan shui painting is an ancient form of Chinese painting. Literally “mountainwater,” it uses brush and ink to depict flawless landscapes.

These paintings are stunningly evocative works which often use no colour at all, but invoke atmospheric, beautiful scenes. You can be a shan shui painter of your own life, Aries. You don’t need a box full of paints to create beauty.

Have you been to Horizon Plaza recently? The tower block is perfect if you’re looking to furnish a new apartment. But with 25 floors of everything from sofas to sun loungers to BBQs, you can soon find yourself overwhelmed by choice… and arguing with your partner.

Here’s a reminder to take it easy: nothing has to be completed in a single day.

Rome wasn’t, and neither was Horizon Plaza.

LEO Jul 23 – Aug 22

VIRGO Aug 23 – Sep 23

LIBRA Sep 24 – Oct 23

SCORPIO Oct 24 – Nov 22

When tourists come to town, I take them to Man Mo Temple in Sheung Wan. Curls of incense rise to the rafters, with smoke pierced by rays of sunlight. It’s a place of worship, peace… and camera shutters, admittedly. But I always appreciate this serene spot in the middle of it all. What’s your place of peace, Leo? You don’t go there enough, do you?

Fir Street and Pine Street in Tai Kok Tsui hide a curious secret: In Chinese, Fir Street is actually labelled “Pine Street”—whereas Pine Street is called “Fir Street.”

Confused, Virgo? Me too.

Maybe a city planner got a little mixed up. But it’s an excellent reminder that names don’t have to define a place— or define you.

I love salted duck eggs.

They are delicious steamed alongside rice, dropped into congee, fried with prawns— even as the interior of a mooncake. They’re made by packing eggs into salted charcoal and letting the flavours mix. These mounds of dark, gritty eggs may look alien, but just wash off the charcoal to reveal a beautiful salted egg. Look beyond appearance, and you’ll be rewarded.

You’re on a hike and feeling exhausted—then just over the next crest, a pavilion appears with a commanding view of the surrounding countryside. It’s the perfect place to take a break!

Sometimes, it can feel like life’s a never-ending hike in sweltering weather: But don’t worry, Scorpio. There’s a pavilion just over the horizon, with a perfect view of what you’ve already accomplished.

As transmitted to Adam White, writer, editor and occasional soothsayer 42 | MID-LEVELS.CO

GEMINI May 22 – Jun 21

CANCER Jun 22 – Jul 22

Sometimes it feels like Hong Kong works in twoyear cycles. Every couple of years, a bunch of your friends leave the city: they’re going home, or moving somewhere else. It can be tough to deal with. Gemini, you should see this as an opportunity: both to meet new, interesting people—and to ask yourself if it’s time to move on yourself.

It’s OK if the answer is no.

How do your egg tart tastes run? Traditional, or Portuguese? Shortcrust, or flaky? Me, I’m partial to a bit of flaky pastry.

Yet some will scoff, telling you anything other than a traditional short crust tart is tantamount to treason.

We all like our egg tarts differently, and that’s fine.

Let others choose what they will, and there’s more of your pick left over for you.

SAGITTARIUS Nov 23 – Dec 21

CAPRICORN Dec 22 – Jan 20

What do you think of when I say “Discovery Bay”?

Some kind of Stepford-Wifeswapping golf-cart-crammed dystopia? That’s why my friends think of, at least. But the truth is that it’s a lovely place, with cleaner air and nicer people than much of the rest of the city. If there are any swingers, they’ve yet to extend me an invitation.

Remember that assumptions aren’t always reliable. The golf carts are still ridiculous, though.

Char siu is one of Hong Kong’s very best foods.

Sweet, meaty and rich, it’s the perfect bite. But which kind of char siu consumer are you, Capricorn? Do you go for $600 Iberico pork shoulder char siu, or a $25 plate of char siu rice? I think that you should be both.

Splurge now and then, but don’t be too proud to dig in with a plastic spoon, either.

MID-LEVELS.CO | 43

Walking the talk

zim city

The latest green issues affecting our city.

The government is taking steps to make Hong Kong more walkable.

G

ood news. The government is to take the call for improved walkability seriously. The Transport Department has invited proposals for a Consultancy Study on Enhancing Walkability.

Two related studies will be commissioned simultaneously: the Feasibility Study on Pedestrian Connectivity from Wan Chai to Sheung Wan in Hong Kong Island North; and the Review of Assessment Mechanism for Hillside Escalator Links and Elevator Systems.

The opening of the invitation opening sets out the vision.

“Reducing traffic congestion and promoting walking form a virtuous cycle: the more people walk, the less the traffic is congested.

Furthermore, Hong Kong people are becoming more health conscious and aspire to a low carbon lifestyle. With an aging population, improved walking environments can better cater for the non-vehicular needs of the elderly to commute and integrate into the community.

As a free mode of travel, walking and, more importantly, a good walking environment, are also the cornerstones of a socially equitable society.”

1. “Make it connected”, by enhancing our pedestrian networks 2. “Make it enjoyable”, by making walking a pleasant experience 3. “Make it safe”, by providing a safe and quality pedestrian environment 4. “Make it smart”, by providing user-friendly information on walking routes.

Importantly, the government has recognized the need to update the Transport Planning and Design Manual and the Hong Kong Planning Standards and Guidelines. This is long overdue. We are dramatically lagging behind London and New York. The study recognizes that both cities have made enormous

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Pedestrians in Sheung Wan

improvements in favour of pedestrians over the last two decades. The invitation requires the consultants to formulate a new transport planning framework and to take reference from the Street Design Manual formulated under Mayor Bloomberg in New York City, and the UK Government’s Manual for Streets (1 and 2), which reflect the latest thinking in transport planning, street design and public spaces.

The studies will take into account our ageing population and hilly terrain, looking into personal mobility devices as well as escalators and elevators. Most interesting will be the showcases.

The consultants are asked to select two areas to demonstrate the new ideas. I hope that one of the areas will be Central–Admiralty, as it is one of the most complicated areas to work with. Get it right here, and Hong Kong can export its ideas not just to the rest of the city, but to other hyper-dense Asian cities too. M

Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.

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marketplace

marketplace

To advertise, email talk@hongkongliving.com or call 2776 2772.

46 | MID-LEVELS.CO

To advertise, email talk@hongkongliving.com or call 2776 2772

marketplace

GET LISTED! 2776 2772 talk@hongkongliving.com To advertise, email talk@hongkongliving.com or call 2776 2772

MID-LEVELS.CO | 47

Exploring Hong Kong’s historic buildings

Jennifer Lee finds a bit of Hollywood history on Stubbs Road

T

his Stubbs Road mansion was built by noted Guangdong merchant and philanthropist Shum Yat-Chor for his wife, Shum Li Po-Lun. They made their fortune in herbal tea.

Over the years, King Yin Lei has been featured in several films of international renown. Most famously, it appears in the Bruce Lee film Enter the Dragon, both as a black and white composite photo (used to represent Han’s Island during Lee’s briefing with Braithwaite) and as a long shot (as Lee enters Han’s island). It also serves as the backdrop for the 1995 film Soldier of Fortune, starring Clark Gable. Locally, the 1980 television series Yesterday’s Glitter, which starred Liza Wang, was shot inside the mansion.

Designed by the British architect A.R FentonRayen, the construction of King Yin Lei began in 1936 and took just one year. It was originally named ‘Lei Ho’, or ‘Lucky House’, but renamed upon its sale to a new owner in 1978.

Built in the Chinese Renaissance style that was popular during the 1920s and 1930s, the building is seen as a bridge between Hong Kong’s past and its high-rise present for its combination of Western cement construction (then in its infancy) and ornate Chinese motifs.

King Yin Lei was declared a monument in July 2008, but there was a time—after it was

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Photos courtesy of the Antiquities and Monuments Office

King Yin Lei

building of the month

put up for sale in 2004—when its survival hung in the balance. Amid claims that it would likely be bought for redevelopment, a local conservation organisation launched the “Save King Yin Lei Campaign” which generated publicity around the issue. However, in September 2007, dump trucks were spotted at the site, parts of the building’s roof were removed, and the Chinese characters on the front plaque were chiselled off. The work was halted after the mansion was declared a proposed monument. The government and the owner subsequently reached an agreement where the government would gain ownership of the site after restoration in return for granting land for development nearby. The site was declared a monument in 2008 and restoration work was completed in December 2010.

Want to see this piece of local and Hollywood history? It is located on 45 Stubbs Road and serviced by New World Bus routes 15 and 15B. M

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