FAMILY | FOOD | TRAVEL | ARTS & CULTURE
November 2017
Read all about it! What’s on at Hong Kong International Literary Festival
British counsel
Top tips for applying to British boarding schools
Five minutes with… Paul Ng, Ocean Park’s giant panda keeper
Dog days of autumn What to expect when you’re expecting...a dog
' Tis the season
Hairy crab fever returns—how, where and why you should get involved
Paradise found Exploring Mauritius
PLUS ri
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s ma tma s Whe rke re to t s stock shop ing fi for llers
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The really useful magazine November 2017
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55 PEOPLE 4 Snapped! Southside’s social life THE PLANNER 6 Happening in October What’s on THINGS WE’D BUY 14 Christmas markets Stock up on stocking fillers NEWS 18 What’s going on? In your backyard GIVEAWAYS 22 Free stuff Fab things to win READERS’ SURVEY 23 Tell us about yourself Enter to win a two-day staycation at the Kerry Hotel
FIVE MINUTES WITH... 24 Paul Ng Nai Kwong Ocean Park’s Animal Behaviour and Enrichment Manager LOCAL 26 Here’s one I made earlier... Prefabricated homes in Pok Fu Lam COVER STORY 28 Dog days of autumn What to expect when you’re expecting a dog EDUCATION 38 Boarding school advice Tips from a British education expert HK ADVENTURES 40 Stella So heads to... Fanling Ping Che
50 ARTS AND CULTURE 42 Read all about it! The lowdown on Hong Kong International Literary Festival EATING 50 A hairy situation Your guide to hairy crab season. Plus Nibbles HOME & LIVING 54 Cliffside living in Tai Tam Sitting down with Paul Kember, co-founder of KplusK BIG DAY OUT 58 Ng Tung Chai Waterfalls Beat the heat in Tai Mo Shan TRAVEL 60 Paradise found A week in Mauritius. What to do and where to stay
44 PETS 70 Ask Dr. Pauline On dog-proofing, heavy breathing and lead-pulling HOROSCOPE 72 You will meet a tall, dark stranger Adam White reveals what lies in store for you ZIM CITY 74 Paul Zimmerman on… Making the city more walkable SOUTHSIDE SECRETS 80 Jumbo Kingdom The history of Aberdeen’s famous floating restaurant
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contributors
Tara Smytn shh e, a nd
Joni Chan
...t oo k this m onth’s Pe op in 2011 whe le ph ot os. Sh e ha s ... st a rt ed hi ki n g ed u p fo r O xfa m a pa ss ion fo r A rt an d n g si s, d n D es ign an d enjoy s ie th re e fr n g a pa ir of ni ph ow ot og en ra ph ev y. ot Sh N e . dr aw s an d pa int s in he r hi ki n g Tra ilwa lk er spare tim e. In he r art, ti m e, sh e hit th e a ils. at th at s er sh e tri es to ca pt ure in a tr t a n d hit th e tr s ou be au ed ty tt in ki m un ot g da s, ne obje cts an d pl aces. At d red sh op ha s co ve red hu n th e we ek en ds, sh e lov Sin ce th en, Ta ra lo m et re s on th e tra ils es strollin g arou nd ki a n d hu n d red s of It a ly a n d N epa l. Join F lower M arket R oa d in M on g Ko k fo r fre sh U K, cut flowe rs. ch an hc1222 in Hon g K on g, out on pa g e 58. @g m ai l . co m y a d he r fo r a big
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Want to write for Southside Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com
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people Snaps from Southside
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have your say “What is your favourite book?”
Marching Powder because it gave a true and very interesting insight into prisons and culture which is quite different to anything we know.
Games of Thrones because it’s all magic and fantasy.
- Sidney
- Marie
Game of Thrones because it has action, adventure, drama, comedy and romance. All genres in one!
- Ibukun
Angels and Demons because it’s full of twists, turns and intrigue.
- Joe
Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? because it raises important questions about what it means to be human.
- Leo SOUTHSIDE.HK | 5
planner
NOV 7
Melbourne Cup Charity Long Lunch
To coincide with one of the most anticipated dates in horse racing, Farmer’s Market is teaming up with local charity Angels for Orphans to host a long lunch at the Aberdeen Marina Club. There will be free-flow drinks and canapés, a three-course meal, followed by transport to The Butcher’s Club Secret Kitchen for an after-party. Items in the charity auction include a week at a luxury villa in Bali. Funds raised will go directly to Angels for Orphans to support their work with underprivileged children. 10am-2pm, and 2:30-10pm for the after party. Individual tickets are $1,088, and, along with group tickets, are available at farmersmarket.com.hk
UNTIL NOV 10 Tale of the Wonderland
Photo courtesy of Blindspot Gallery and artist
This group exhibition uses Carroll’s much-loved Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland as a basis to construct a narrative spanning 20 years in postcolonial Hong Kong. Blindspot Gallery, 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Road. blindspotgallery.com
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UNTIL NOV 25 Hong Kong International Comedy Festival 2017 This year’s lineup features Ahmed Ahmed and Paul Ogata. The festival also includes a Comedy Competition, the finals of which will be on November 4. Tickets start at $250 each. Most of the events will be held at The TakeOut Comedy Club HK, 34 Elgin Street, Soho. For more details, visit hkcomedyfestival.com
UNTIL NOV 30 Heritage Fiesta 2017 15 historic buildings related to the city’s law and order will be open to the public this month during specific hours. Free guided tours through these historic buildings will be offered on a first come first served basis. Visitors can collect special stamps at participating buildings to mark as they work their way through this heritage exploration. Free admission to all buildings. For further information, visit heritage.gov.hk
NOV 1-30 Crablicious Restaurant booking platform FeedMe Guru has teamed up with 60+ top restaurants and 5-star hotels to offer crab themed tasting menus throughout November. Participating outlets include the Island Shangri-La, Hanabi, Yan To Heen and many more. Visit feedmeguru.com/crabalicious for more information.
Haitong International 2017 Hong Kong Open Windsurfing Championships
happening in November
NOV 1-5
Windsurfers from around the world compete at Hong Kong’s largest annual windsurfing competition in Tai Tam Bay. After the competition on the 5th, there will be a windsurfing party (10am-3pm) at the Hong Kong Sea School to introduce the joys of the sport to a wider audience. Members of the public are also invited to participate in a photography competition for a chance to win a professional grade camera drone and a GoPro HERO 6. Stanley Main Beach. For more information, visit Facebook @htiwindsurfing
NOV 3-12 Hong Kong International Literary Festival This year’s festival features a diverse lineup of writers, encompassing fiction, thrillers, poetry and live storytelling among others. There will be events with literary stars such as Carol Ann Duffy, Amy Tan and Ian Rankin. Hong Kong writers and themes, including the 20th anniversary of Hong Kong’s return to China, will also be specially showcased to promote local talent on an international scale. Full-time students are entitled to 50 per cent off most festival events. Get your tickets at festival.org.hk
NOV 4 Hong Kong Spartan Race One of the world’s most famous obstacle course races, a Spartan Race is designed to push contestants to their limits. We have been assured that “there will be fire, mud, water, barbed wire, and occasionally Hell on Earth”. The race will be split into the 13km Spartan Super and the 6km Spartan Sprint; there will also be kids’ race categories. Tickets range from $480 for the Open Junior Race to $1,180 for the Elite Spartan Super; spectator only tickets are also available at $50. Kam Tin Country Club, Shui Tau Road, Yuen Long. For tickets, visit spartanrace.hk
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planner NOV 4 Lamma Fun Day Beach Music Festival Over 15 music acts will perform on two stages as part of this family-friendly music festival, raising money to support Child Welfare Scheme Hong Kong and its work with children and village schools in western Nepal. There will be over 30 market stalls, a licensed bar, food booths, a charity auction, and beach games among other activities. Over 500 runners will also be participating in the Lamma8 and Lamma14 races earlier in the day, returning to the beach in time for festivities. Admission is free. Tai Wan To Beach, near Yung Shue Wan.
NOV 4 Sandy Bay Charity Fair Hosted by The Society for the Relief of Disabled Children, all net proceeds of the fair will be donated to purchase new hospital equipment for The Duchess of Kent Children’s Hospital at Sandy Bay. Other than stalls with great bargains and food, there will also be talent performances at the fair. Free, 10am-5pm, The Duchess of Kent Children’s Hospital, 12 Sandy Bay Road, Sandy Bay, srdc.org.hk, 2819 3050
NOV 4-5 Rosé Sunset 2017 by the Flying Winemaker Kick back and watch the beautiful sunset on the Southside, while relaxing with friends. Enjoy bites, goodies and music from two of the city’s DJs: DJ Rork & DJ Romain FX. The schedule is as follows: 4-6pm: Free-flow on all wines, beer & aperol spritz; 6-10pm: “sunset prices” on all drinks. $220 for a free-flow ticket. $100 for entry after 6pm. Book at ticketflap.com/rose-sunset Sunset Beach Club, The Pulse, Repulse Bay
NOV 4 Dalton School Hong Kong info session DSHK welcomes prospective parents to visit their new campus in an info session event. Principal Larry Leaven will share an overview of the school’s mission, visions and values, and parents can learn about its dual-language curriculum and admission procedures. Afterwards the brand new campus and learnercentred facilities will be available to tour. 10am-noon for DSHK Primary School, 11:15am12:30pm for Little Dalton and Mini Dalton. Sign up at dshk.edu.hk
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NOV 5 Kayaking lesson & brunch in Stanley Spend a couple of Sunday hours kayaking around Tai Tam Bay with Mozaic, a social club for Hong Kong residents over 40. Single- and double-seater crafts will both be available, and there will also be an instructor on hand to help. After working up an appetite, the group will have a semi-buffet style brunch at Ocean Rock in Murray House. $550 normal fare, $450 member’s price. Mozaic has kindly extended the member’s price to Southside readers for this event, RSVP jacqueline@mozaiclub.com.hk to receive payment methods. 10:30am-3pm. Aqua Bound Centre, Stanley Beach (next to Hong Kong Sea School).
Box of Hope
NOV 6-22
Box of Hope is an annual charity project which provides basic amenities to underprivileged children in Asia, donated by Hong Kong school children and local organisations. Boxes can be dropped off at participating schools between November 6-10 and Box of Hope’s temporary office in Exchange Square from November 6-22. To mark the charity’s tenyear anniversary, the winners of this year’s box decoration competition will receive a Bookazine pack filled with stationery goodies. Deadline for the competition is November 10 and winners will be announced on November 24. For more information on how to enter and donate, visit boxofhope.org
happening in November NOV 8 “Creative Play the Waldorf Way”: An evening with Janni Nicol A free talk and discussion for parents and teachers of young children. Janni Nicol is the UK early childhood representative for Steiner Waldorf schools and kindergartens. She writes, consults and lectures on the Steiner early childhood education model in the UK and internationally. Wine, cheese and refreshments will be provided. Free admission, RSVP at creativeplayhighgate.eventbrite.hk 7-8:30pm, Highgate House School, 2/F, 100 Peak Road, The Peak.
NOV 9 Taking care of yourself for Movember Eco-friendly paint producer eicó is hosting a special party to celebrate the start of Movember. Guests are promised the chance to meet “an interesting and eclectic bunch of people” revolving around the topic of how better to look after oneself. Learn about hair grooming, hats, making positive life changes, and the power of kung fu. Food, drinks, and music will be provided. 7pm start. eicó studio, 2B Evergreen Industrial Mansion, 12 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang. For enquiries email info@eico.hk
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planner NOV 11 Pop-up Christmas Market Get a headstart on your Christmas shopping with gifts for the whole family, holiday cards and decorations from 16 independent vendors. Plus, enjoy Christmas arts and crafts activities for the kids, organic food, wines and other fabulous party necessities. The White Loft, 6 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang
Clockenflap
NO 17-1V9
Hong Kong’s biggest music and arts festival is back for its 10th run. Growing rapidly in size since 2007, it has hosted many global names, and this year’s starstudded lineup features Massive Attack, The Prodigy, MØ, Temples and many more. $1,940 for a three-day pass. Single day passes start from $930, with student tickets starting from $570. Book online at clockenflap.com. Central Harbourfront, 9 Lung Wo Road, Central.
NOV 11 AND 18 The Rhythm of Life concert The Hong Kong Welsh Male Voice Choir returns for its annual collaboration with HKAPA students. Tickets range from $200 to $300, available through Hong Kong Ticketing. 7:30pm start. Concert Hall, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Wan Chai
NOV 15-26 Hong Kong Art Week Over 50 galleries support a range of activities centred around the theme ARTROPOLIS. Highlights include the Gallery Walk for Charity on November 21—where art lovers can hop through 30 galleries and art spaces in Central, Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun with live performances— and the Art Symposium on November 17 and 18, a series of talks on the topic Asia: New Frontiers in the Art World. Visit hk-aga.org
The Free Clinic
NOV 11
The Free Clinic is a joint project between the Chinese International School’s Service Programme, Stanley Wellness Centre and Dr Lauren Bramley & Partners. It brings together GPs, nurses, osteopaths, OBGYNs, and other professionals to provide free medical care to hundreds of refugees and the underprivileged in Hong Kong. This time, the clinic will also be adding dentistry to its standard services. Help inspire more healthcare professionals to get involved in this impactful project by spreading the word. Visit facebook.com/ cisfreeclinic for more details. 120 Stanley Main Street, Stanley Market, and 9/F, Pacific House, 20 Queen’s Road, Central.
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NOV 18 Women’s Five November Run Women’s Five combines yoga and running to help ladies achieve their fitness goals. Registration has passed for the five-week health and wellness program, but you can still register for the run only. Prices start at $390, with discounts for teams. Register at womensfive.com
NOV 28 British Boarding Schools Show The British Boarding Schools Show will be coming to Hong Kong for the first time this year. Families can meet the Heads and representatives of specially selected leading UK boarding schools, as well as talk to boarding school specialists to understand more about
this big life choice. Admission is free, RSVP attendance at eventbrite.hk. Opening times are 10am-2pm and 5-8pm. Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road.
NOV 30 Expat Parent Charity Christmas Lunch What better way to get into the Christmas spirit than a fun lunch with friends for a good cause? All lucky table proceeds and profits will go towards local charity Box of Hope. $550/ person or $500/person if you book a table. Each ticket includes a three-course lunch, bubbly and wine or soft drinks. Seats are limited so book early! 12noon-2:30pm. Mr Wolf, 5/F Crawford House, 70 Queen’s Road, Central. To book, visit hongkongliving.com
Women’s Five November Run
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planner
NOV 29 A Night of Bordeaux Indulgence Kerry Wines and the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux have teamed up for their annual grand tasting event for wine enthusiasts in Hong Kong. Over 90 esteemed Châteaux owners and representatives will showcase wines from the 2011 and 2014 vintages. Guests will be able to taste a wide variety including Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Lynch-Bages, Léoville Poyferré, Beychevelle, Branaire-Ducru, and Smith Haut Lafitte. Tickets are $658, or $588 if purchased before November 10. 6:30-9:30pm. The Ballroom, 1/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. For ticketing and further details, visit kerrywines.com/ugc-tasting-2017
DEC 2-3 Hong Kong 24-Hour Race 2017 Every 24 hours, 5,500 people across the globe fall victim to slavery. Anyone can be a part of a youth-led anti-slavery movement by joining this 24-hour run and advocating for freedom. The
run will be a relay endurance race, but there will also be a music festival where both local and international musicians will be playing live well into the wee hours. Regular tickets cost $280, but the first 280 people will get an early bird price of $200, visit Eventbrite for more details. December 2 (7am) - December 3 (11am). Lugard Road, The Peak.
DEC 15-26 The Nutcracker by HK Ballet Join Clara on her magical journey and root for the heroic Nutcracker as he battles the evil Rat King—and enjoy Tchaikovsky’s iconic repertoire along the way, accompanied live by Hong Kong Sinfonietta. Matinée performance at 2:30pm, evening performance at 7:30pm. Tickets range from $180 to $1,000; aside from Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, ticket holders can enjoy 15 per cent off in restaurants and bars at the InterContinental Hong Kong on the performance date. Visit hkballet.com for tickets. Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
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Photo courtesy of Hong Kong Ballet and Conrad Dy-Liacco
BOOK NOW
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things we’d buy
HOW BAZAAR! Catharina Cheung rounds up the city’s best Christmas markets
FIS Christmas Market
NOV 1-DEC 5
Sip and Shop PreChristmas Bazaars High-end vendors selling local and international wares. Expect to find everything from jewellery to fashion to festive snacks to homeware—perfect for getting through your Christmas shopping list. The bazaar will be held at The American Club Tai Tam on November 1 and December 5, and at the Fringe Club on November 29. Enjoy free chilled prosecco during bubbly happy hour from 5-7pm. Credit cards will be accepted. RSVP to shoppinghongkong@gmail.com to be given access to the American Club. Visit facebook.com/shoppinghongkongdistinctive for updates.
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NOV 13-14
The Feel Good Fair
Resurrection Church brings us an ethical shopping event. Browse carefully selected, ethically sourced and sustainable products from local vendors who are passionate about helping others and preserving the planet. Funds raised will go to the Resurrection Church Mission Fund, which supports Inner City Ministries, Christian Action’s programme in Qinghai, and Hope House Cambodia. Free entry, 6:309pm (November 13) and 10am-2pm (November 14). Resurrection Church, Pak Sha Wan Centre.
NOV 15-DEC 10
Prestige Christmas Showcase The Conrad Hotel’s Grand Ballroom will house over 350 pop-up stalls and brands from around the world to solve your gift-buying woes. Browse the best of fashion, food, homeware, children’s products. The Gift and Lifestyle Fair will be on November 15, Pre-Christmas Gift Parade on November 27, Christmas Gift Showcase on December 2, and Christmas Gift Festival on December 10. Shoppers will be eligible for a 15 per cent discount when dining at the Garden Café or Lobby Lounge. Free admission, 10am-6pm or 8pm. Visit prestigefairs.hk. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway.
stocking fillers NOV 18
NOV 25
Non-profit playgroup and and preschool City Kids brings us its annual Christmas fair. Among other attractions, there will a bouncy castle, cookie decorating sessions, shopping stalls, a bake sale, and a BBQ sausage sizzle. We are told Santa will also pop in for a photo opportunity. 10:30am-4pm, free admission. City Kids School, 12 Borrett Road, Mid-levels.
This Christmas market will also serve as an open house event for families to view Fairchild. There will be at least 10 stalls selling various gifts and trinkets such as organic oils, bilingual books, toys, and clothing. Vendor table fees and any donations will go to the Make A Wish Foundation. 2-6pm. G/F and 1/F, Kong Chian Tower, Block 1, 351 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun.
City Kids Christmas Fair
NOV 18
Scandinavian Christmas Bazaar
NOV 26
Repulse Bay Christmas Fair
Give your seasonal festivities a Danish and Swedish touch with Dansk Sømandskirke Hong Kong’s bazaar. Find Danish brands such as Skagen and Bestseller, plus Scandinavian snacks galore including æbleskiver, smørrebrød and hotdogs, and a children’s tombola and lucky draw. Further unwind with live music and drinks by the pool. Tickets are $50 at the door. 10am-5pm. Mariners’ Club, 3/F, 11 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
Repulse Bay’s annual Christmas Fair is a treasure trove of Christmas decorations, children’s items, paintings, home accessories, and gift series for sale. There will also be lots of children-friendly activities to keep the littles ones entertained. Visit therepulsebay.com for more details. 109 Repulse Bay Road.
NOV 24-DEC 2
Discovery Montessori Academy Bazaar
White Christmas Street Fair Swire Properties bring us festive shopping, food and drinks, DIY workshops, and live entertainment. Look out for this season’s mascot, a gingerbread man. The fair will be in Starstreet Precinct in Wan Chai from November 24 to 26, and then in Tong Chong Street, Taikoo Place, from November 30 to December 2. Visit facebook.com/ SwireXmasFair for updates.
NOV 25
Highgate House School Advent Fair Expect seasonal festivities including games, crafts, face painting, breadmaking sessions, a bake sale, and raffle prizes to be won. There will be a food buffet via donation prepared by parents and teachers and a burger BBQ on the terrace. Puppet shows will be held every hour on the hour. The event will also serve as an open day for attendees to visit the school grounds. Free admission; RSVP at eventbrite.hk. 10am-2:30pm. Highgate House School, 100 Peak Road.
DEC 2
Fairchild Christmas Market
GSIS Christmas Bazaar Enjoy a taste of authentic German Swiss festive celebrations at GSIS. There will be games, a Santa’s grotto, booths selling ornamental wreaths and more, plus plenty of traditional food such as raclette and Stollen. Parking is not available, but the school will be providing free shuttle bus services to and from Central, Pok Fu Lam, and Southside. 10am-4pm, 11 Guildford Road, The Peak.
DEC 2
Il Mercatino Charity Fair This charity fair is held by the Italian Women’s Association. Find Italian food and wine, branded clothes, toys and accessories, sportswear, as well as an Italian gourmet corner. Entrance is $20 and attendees are encouraged to bring their own shopping bags. Funds raised will help projects at the pediatric The Duchess of Kent Children’s Hospital, 12 Sandy Bay Road, Pok Fu Lam. There are no parking spaces available onsite.
DEC 1
Enjoy Christmas plays and musicals presented by the kindergarten and elementary classes, plus Christmas carols from the school choir. Activities include a Santa’s Grotto, Rumple Show, bauble decorating and a raffle. Tide yourself over at the bazaar with food, drink and stalls selling crafts, books, candles and Christmas fruits. 9am-1pm. 92 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay North.
DEC 2
St. Stephen’s Chapel Christmas Fête A “traditional English summer fête with a Christmas twist and a Chinese flavour”. Spend a day amongst the games stalls, marching bands, bouncy castle, acrobats, and Chinese lion dancers. Santa himself will make a grand entrance via helicopter at 12:30pm. Funds raised goes to charities supported by St Stephen’s. $20 adult entrance fee, children go free, 11am-4:30pm. Sports Ground, St Stephen’s College, Stanley, ststephen.org.hk
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things we’d buy
Let the merriment begin at Discovery Montessori Academy Bazaar
DEC 2
FIS Christmas Fair We have been promised Christmas shopping, lucky draw games, refreshments, and more. Don’t miss the homemade cakes on offer at the famous Café Jardine. 10am-5pm. For details, visit fis. edu.hk FIS Primary School campus, 34 Price Road, Jardine’s Lookout.
DEC 9
SISHK Xmas Fair Expect a vibrant bazaar with 44 retail stalls, food and drink stands, games and prizes, and a flea market. Visitors are to buy cash coupons for the activities, but the trading stalls will also accept cash. Free admission. 10am-4pm. Singapore International School Hong Kong primary school campus, 23 Nam Long Shan Road, Wong Chuk Hang.
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DEC 9-17
Stanley Plaza White Finnish Christmas Market For two consecutive weekends, Stanley Plaza will be transformed into a Finnish market inspired by the St. Thomas Christmas Market in Finland. Over 80 festive stalls will be selling a wide range of crafts, accessories, decorations, and kids items. Don’t miss the iconic Glass Dining Dome and traditional Finnish food and mulled wine. Guests will also be able to watch an aurora VR show in an igloo and experience a Finnish jacuzzi. Performances include Santa Lucia, Finnish folk dance, Christmas carolling, and a Nativity play. Free shuttle buses run from Ocean Park MTR, Shau Kei Wan and Aberdeen. Noon-8pm. Stanley Plaza Amphitheatre & Public Open Space.
DEC 17
Christmas Southside Market The Butchers Club Secret Kitchen is hosting its yearly holiday shopping and long lunch. Menu and entertainment are yet to be confirmed, but last year’s event included a holiday raffle, an ugly sweater contest, lawn games, live music, and lots of vendors spread across two floors. Guests older than 4 need to purchase all-you-can-eat tickets for $250. Free-flow packages for adults are available for an extra $200 online or $250 at the door. Visit thebutchers.club for details.
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news
BAKING MANIAC OPENS SPACE IN WONG CHUK HANG
GUY FAWKES CELEBRATIONS AT MAGGIE AND ROSE This month, on selected dates only, Maggie & Rose is opening the doors to its quirky clubhouse overlooking the Repulse Bay beach. To mark Guy Fawkes night, the family members’ club is going all out with a special barbecue on the roof terrace (November 4, 7-10pm). There will also be special activities for children, like making their own scientific explosions, ‘fireworks’ and apple bobbing. For reservations or more information, 2638 7191. The barbecue is open to all; non-member entry prices range from $480 to $680 dependant on choice of drinks. For full menu and more details, visit hk.maggieandrose.com, 3/F, 301 The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay.
Mother-and-son enterprise Baking Maniac has opened its first official venue in Wong Chuk Hang. Baking Maniac was founded years ago by Ankrish Gidwani and his mother Renuka. “I started baking as soon as I could hold a mixer and would bake for my family every Friday after school. I was 12 when I got my first order for a Christmas party,” says Ankrish. Passionate about his craft, by 13 Ankrish was blasting out emails to five-star hotels asking to intern with their pastry chefs, but they all said no. He kept baking and blogging and soon the orders were flowing in and Baking Maniac had transformed from a hobby into a business. Having recently completed his studies in hotel management, Ankrish now hopes to take
his baking to new heights. The 1800-squarefoot Wong Chuk Hang venue consists of a commercial kitchen and a multi-purpose event and dining space in which Ankrish hopes to host baking and cake/cupcake/cookie decorating classes, parties and corporate events. He also plans to rent the space out for private dining. “There’s no secret to being a good baker. You just need passion, a love of desserts and lots and lots of practice,” says Ankrish. We look forward to being his guinea pigs. 5C, Kwai Bo Industrial Building, 40 Wong Chuk Hang Road. Find out more at bakingmaniac.me
SECRET THEATRE PROJECT RETURNS TO HONG KONG After a series of sold-out shows last year, the Secret Theatre team is back on November 3 for another round of immersive storytelling. The creative collective is known for its unique brand of experiential theatre, which engages its guests as part of the set and story. As usual, the location—somewhere in Southside—will only be revealed upon purchasing a ticket. As for what we do know, this year’s show Project Mayhem sees an interactive adaptation of one of modern history’s most twisted tales of fraternity, violence and all-out psychological warfare. For the first time, theatregoers can also enjoy an immersive dining experience and dive deeper into the dystopian world with a “Dinner & Show” ticket. The dinner includes
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three themed courses catered by The Butchers Club with a bottle of wine by Wine Brothers. Show runs until December 10. Tickets start at $360 and can be bought at ticketflap.com/ projectmayhemhk. Find out more about the Secret theatre Project at secretstudiolab.com
GOVERNMENT INVITES COMMENT ON POK FU LAM ZONING PLAN The Town Planning Board is inviting comment on new amendments to the Pok Fu Lam Outline Zoning Plan. The new draft (No. S/ H10/16) incorporates amendments regarding the rezoning of certain plots of land in the Southside to make land available for public housing developments, the redevelopment of Wah Fu Estate, and the extension of the South Island Line (West). It is now available for public inspection during office hours at the Secretariat of the Board, the Planning Enquiry Counters of the Planning Department in North Point and Sha Tin, the Hong Kong District Planning Office, and the Southern District Office. Any person can send their comments regarding the amendments, which will be made available for public inspection, to the Secretary of the Board on or before November 15. Copies of the draft outline zoning plan are available for sale at the Map Publications Centres in North Point and Yau Ma Tei. The electronic version of the plan can be viewed at info.gov.hk/tpb
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news
SOUTHSIDE RESIDENT ATTEMPTS HONG KONG ISLAND CIRCUMNAVIGATION
Simon Holliday swimming from Hong Kong to Macau —he finished in just 10 hours.
Simon Holliday, a Hong Kong-based Briton, will be attempting a solo swim circumnavigation of Hong Kong Island on November 11. The swim, dubbed HK360, will raise money for Splash Foundation, a non-profit swim school founded by Holliday, which provides free learn-to-swim and water safety lessons for under-served communities in Hong Kong such as domestic helpers and refugees. Rest assured, Holliday is no newbie. He swam across the English Channel in August 2011, and in May 2014 he swam from Hong
Kong to Macau, breaking the world record. If successful, this will be the first time anyone has swum the 45 kilometres around the island unassisted and without stopping. With tides, currents, marine traffic and potentially adverse weather conditions the swim is expected to take anywhere between 13 and 18 hours. The swim will start in the early hours of the morning at Sai Wan Swimming Shed near Kennedy Town and end at Repulse Bay. Find out more about Holliday and his attempt on facebook.com/HK360Swim
OCEAN PARK KOALA PUT TO SLEEP A koala at Ocean Park was put to sleep last month after a respiratory infection left him weakened. Sora was a five-year-old captive bred male koala who had been living in the Adventures in Australia exhibit since arriving from Osaka’s Tennoji Zoo in July of last year. He was diagnosed with a respiratory infection that was eventually resolved in May, but was left seriously weakened. By October 17, Sora’s vital organs had all but collapsed, prompting officials to decide to end the animal’s life. The decision was supported by Tennoji Zoo, Cleland Wildlife Park and the Agricultural, Fisheries and Conservation Department. This follows the euthanization of three-year-old female southern koala Merinda last year due to kidney failure. The park’s two remaining southern koalas, male Dougie and female Yani, both came from Cleland Wildlife Park in South Australia in October 14.
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GIVEAWAYS Bayard Children’s Magazines Get your kids hooked on reading! Bayard Presse Asia is celebrating its 40th anniversary in Hong Kong this year. To celebrate, we are giving away three 12-month subscriptions, valued at nearly $600 each, to one of their fabulous children’s magazines. Choose from Bayard’s StoryBox (3-6 years), Adventure Box (6-10 years) or Discovery Box (9-12 years) series. The magazines are filled
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Looking for something new to do in Hong Kong? Join Hong Kong Yachting’s Container Boat Trip for a great day out and a rare chance to get a closer look at the port action. After the tour, the yacht will anchor at a beach for a BBQ lunch before stopping at the Ma Wan deserted village, where you can take a stroll. We’re giving away one pair of vouchers, valued at $1,800 (includes freeflow drinks).
Younibody is a holistic health lab that provides Bioresonance health assessment and therapy to regulate and detox your body. Bioresonance therapy is non-invasive and recommended in particular for children and people suffering from allergies, eczema and attention deficit disorders. We are giving away a free kids’ allergy assessment program, valued at $3,280!
Heliservices Experience Hong Kong Island from above and beyond! In this 15-minute helicopter trip, you’ll get to fly above Hong Kong Island, across the famous Victoria Harbour and down and around the beaches and bays of the Southside. We’re giving away a single-seat Hong Kong Island Experience voucher, valued at $1,999.
Revitalising facial at The Ritz Carlton Enjoy a 90-minute pampering experience at The Ritz Carlton. The Ultimate Turnaround involves ultrasonic peeling, a special “wrinkle comb”, jowl-lifting, an eye treatment and a facial massage to lift, firm and tone sagging skin. We’re giving away a Ultimate Turnaround experience to one lucky winner, valued at $2,880!
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Paul joined Ocean Park in 1978
PAUL NG NAI KWONG
Ocean Park’s giant panda keeper Paul Ng talks to Robyn Or about how to maintain good relationships with animals I joined Ocean Park in 1978 as animal caretaker. I was 23 years old. My role was to assist the veterinarian in caring for newborn, sick and old animals, conducting research and collecting data. My parents are doctors in Hunan. I was raised with their passion and commitment to saving lives. During the Cultural Revolution in China, I witnessed lives being destroyed while my father was helping the victims in the hospital. All these factors contributed to my decision to be an animal worker. I am really interested in their growth cycle. An amazing moment for me was participating in sperm retrieval training for Bottlenose dolphins. At that time it was unprecedented in Asia. We extracted the sperm manually. Now, as Animal Behaviour and Enrichment Manager, my work is to make animals as happy as they would be in the wild by
identifying and providing stimuli for their psychological and physiological well-being. For example, we offer penguins a “tumbler toy” which they can push about between each other. This social interaction also fosters stronger relationships among them.
Animal behavioural training and environmental enrichment are like a pair of chopsticks—each is essential to the other
Animal behavioural training and environmental enrichment are like a pair of chopsticks— each is essential to the other.
We tailor both according to the animals’ personalities and physical characteristics. We consider five areas: social interaction, cognition, physical habitat, sensory environment and food. Building trust with animals through communication is the foundation of our work. We apply positive reinforcement, a modern training system that allows animals to choose whether or not to join the activities, in contrast to traditional systems that employed punishment as a means of training. In 1998, two giant pandas, An An (a 12-year-old male) and Jia Jia (a 20-year-old female) were gifted by the government of the People’s Republic of China in celebration of the handover of Hong Kong. I, together with the newly established panda care team, flew to Wolong, Sichuan to start taking care of the two pandas. We used to wake up at 4am everyday to collect data on them.
pandering to the crowds they may not eat, I let them eat everything they could. Jia Jia loved eating apples and later got used to plum juice. Elder pandas are threatened by kidney problems, so it’s important to protect their teeth so that they can continue to eat bamboo, which is good for digestion.
Jia Jia in 2015
Jia Jia gave birth to six cubs in Wolong. At first we had difficulty with conducting X-Ray screening on her. Giants pandas need to hold their breath during X-Ray screening, but to use anaesthetics on Jia Jia would have been risky and it would have been tough for her to recover at her age. It took 60 days for Jia Jia to learn to hold her breath for three seconds without moving. In 2002, I was invited by the National Zoo in Washington, USA to share the technique of conducting blood pressure tests on pandas. I found that Westerners treat animals as friends whereas Asians often see them as inferiors due to cultural differences.
Jia Jia passed away last year at 38—about 114 years old in human terms. She was the oldest giant panda on earth under human care.
One must be passionate about animal care to be an animal worker. There is too much to learn in the animal world and the only way to connect with an animal is to understand their behaviour. It’s also important to have initiative and take on challenges, as one must face a lot of failures during the process. At times of failure, one must always evaluate the method of the enrichment instead of blaming the animal.
A giant panda consumes around 30kg of food per day, not limited to bamboo. Their day starts when we check their faeces to see if the food is right for their digestive system. They have exercise and training during the day. If you see a giant panda sleeping very well, it means they are eating well. We put fruit in different areas so that they can keep busy searching for it.
Spending my life with animals for 39 years, I am deeply touched by their vitality and have learned to respect life. I can see that Hong Kong people are becoming more concerned about animal rights. What we can do is to share the techniques of animal keeping in international seminars so that everyone can work towards better living conditions for them.
A giant panda in Washington National Zoo died after eating too many muffins, which inspired me to diversify the eating habits of An An and Jia Jia. Barring that which the vet said
I am 62 now and not ready to retire. After some years, I plan to go to Mainland China to apply what I have learned about training wild animals like Snub-nosed monkeys.
Ying Ying in 2007
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 25
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Jennifer Lee reports on a new student housing development in Pok Fu Lam
P
ok Fu Lam may soon be welcoming a batch of prefabricated homes— houses built from factory-made parts that can be put together on site. These new homes are part of a pilot project announced on September 21 by the Development Bureau in an attempt to relieve the city’s housing pressure. As part of the project, the University of Hong Kong and a site called Innocell at the Science and Technology Park in Sha Tin will serve as the testing grounds. The scheme is targeted at students and employees. The homes will measure 194 square feet each, which means that the 31,000-square-foot piece of land near the Science Park is expected to yield approximately 500 cubicles. Rent is expected to range from $8,000 to $10,000 per furnished unit per month— around 40 per cent cheaper than
Rent is expected to range from $8,000$10,000 per furnished unit per month—around 40 per cent cheaper than the market rate
the market rate in the same area, according to a paper submitted to the Legislative Council in July. Developers hope that the 18+ storey structures will be in place by 2020. The development comes as the University of Hong Kong faces a shortage in student housing,
which has led it to submit three project proposals to the government for land to expand housing for its students. “We aim to build a 17-floor student residence with a threestorey podium structure,” said a spokesperson for the University of Hong Kong, “which will provide 1,228 rooms for students. They will be modular and cubical in shape, and the lifespan of this residence could be fifty years or more.” However, it was unclear as to when construction would begin. “We hope we can start construction sometime during the first quarter of 2019, but we are still waiting for government funding, and it is all subject to funding availability.” The idea of using prefabricated structures as low-rent housing was raised by the Council of Social Services in late September. The council has
boxed in been in talks with developers over potential plans to build container homes (a subset of prefabricated homes) ranging from 160 to 320 square feet. These homes would each house two to five people, and would be rented at cheap rates to families on the waiting list for public housing. The plans would provide homes to an estimated 1,000 households over a three-year period, with each person getting a minimum living area of seven square metres. Homeless Hong Kongers could be housed in these units as early as next year. If successful, this prefabricated home initiative could go on to form part of a longterm plan aimed at easing Hong Kong’s housing crisis. How? Land could be cleared and levelled while the units were being manufactured and assembled in factories. However, prefabricated homes face a challenge in that Hong Kong has no official guidelines for this type of architecture. Since city building laws currently do not not provide for assembling prefabricated, multi-storey homes on construction sites, legal exemptions will have to be made before any such plans can go ahead. At the opening ceremony for Construction Safety Week in September, the head of the Development Bureau, Michael Wong, said the Buildings Department was consulting
The University of Hong Kong
the construction industry on a new set of practice notes which would speed up approval procedures. Wong also confirmed that the department would handle the approval
procedures for these prefabricated homes according to existing regulations and make sure that the structures adhered to stability and safety standards.
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 27
cover story
D G DAYS OF AUTUMN Jennifer Lee tells us what to expect when you’re expecting a dog
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W
ith Christmas fast approaching, many beleaguered parents are likely to hear increasingly plaintive pleas of, “Can we get a dog, pleeeease?”. But of course, a dog is for life, not just for Christmas. If you’re thinking of getting a furry addition to your household—at any time of year—here are a few things to consider.
Photo by Simon Li
Adoption/Buying
Hong Kong Dog Rescue founder Sally Andersen
As a prospective owner, one of the first decisions you will have to make is whether to buy or adopt the newest member of your family. If you choose to go down the adoption route, it is important to talk with the staff at the shelter. Make sure your new puppy meets all the members of your household, and that you have the time and space. Puppies require the most work when it comes to house training. If you don’t want your possessions chewed up, or don’t have the time or money to invest in training a puppy, consider adopting an already housebroken, adult dog. This is also the time to consider what kind of dog you want. Certain breeds are more prone to developing certain medical conditions. German Shepherds, for example, are prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, which causes pain that may later develop into arthritis. Whatever breed you get, Sally Andersen, founder of Hong Kong Dog Rescue, advises doing your research. “A lot of people want, say, a Beagle,” she says, “but they’re scent hounds, which means they were bred and used for hunting all day and their sense of smell is very strong. They’ll go looking for a piece of rubbish that’s five miles away. They’re obsessed with food and if you leave them alone, they’ll go through everything in your house to find it. They’ll climb up on your counter, they’ll open cupboards, they’ll chew everything. They howl—they’ve got this awful, baying howl. It’s important to know all of these things...” Any dog you get should be suitable not only to your lifestyle, but also your surroundings. If you live in an apartment, for example, a large dog might not be the best choice. Another concern is time—if a dog spends a lot of time alone at home, they can get bored, which often leads to them destroying things, or developing health issues. If you’re not often at home, consider investing in a dog walker. For those who might not have the time to commit to a dog, Andersen suggests fostering or volunteering. “You can still enjoy having a dog, but you don’t have to worry about looking after it for twenty years or so,” she says. “A lot of people, if they have full-time
woof! jobs or travel a lot, may only have one or two days a week which is fine. Many volunteers build strong bonds with individual dogs in our homing centres. They take them out hiking and do other activities with them. There isn’t a commitment, so you’re not letting anyone down when you travel or leave the country. It’s about considering the dog and not yourself.”
Where to buy or adopt Hong Kong Dog Rescue (HKDR) 21 Main Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong, and 6 Shek Lin Road, Tai Po, Hong Kong. Adoption events are held every Sunday at Whiskers N Paws (10/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, 2552 6200) The Barberdog Pet Store 2 Stanley Main St, Stanley, 2668 9990, Monday to Sundays, 10:30am-7:30pm Hong Kong Paws Foundation visit hkpaws.org for info, email kat@hkpaws.org or call 9485 5188 for adoption enquiries.
Regulations Owning a dog in Hong Kong comes with certain requirements. In Hong Kong it is illegal to own a dog that is more than five months old and is not licensed. Every dog you own must be inoculated against rabies, microchipped and licensed. A dog license is valid for three years and can be renewed by re-vaccinating the dog against rabies. It is also non-transferable, any change in ownership should be reported to the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD) within five days.
How many dogs do you have?
“I have three dogs. Bon Bon was adopted when we went for a walk in Nam Wai Village. Butterfly was adopted from a pet store owner. Kaiser was found on a bridge outside my home at four weeks old. Please adopt where possible—there are so many dogs given away, rescued and waiting for a good home.” - Michael Sadaragani, Sai Kung
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Photo by Nick Kearns
Photo by Eric Tang
cover story
Preparing for the new arrival Stock up on supplies. On the list are leashes, dog food, a bed, shampoos, treats, house-training pads, toenail clippers, bowls, toys, brushes and combs, and a training crate. Some of these supplies will depend on the breed of dog you get. A leash too small may hurt it inadvertently when you’re walking, one too large may allow it to hurt others or get loose and run away. Toys should be free of buttons, strings, and anything that can be bitten off and swallowed. Rubber balls made for dogs are harder to tear apart, as are nylon bones, and non-toxic stuffed toys. Treats are important for training and for when you want to spoil your dog, but be careful with rawhide—it can be torn into pieces and swallowed, leading in some cases to choking or intestinal blockages. In case your dog gets lost, an identification tag, such as a collar with contact information, is a good idea. All dogs must also be individually identified with a microchip implant under government rules and laws. It is also important to make your home pet-friendly before your dog arrives. Make sure anything that is potentially hazardous is out of the way. Look out for cabinets at pet level, countertops, chemicals, small toys, and electrical and curtain cords. Especially if you’re getting a puppy, make sure you have lots of chew toys available for it and keep all expensive things out of its reach—it won’t know the difference. The same goes for chemicals and medicines. Puppies like to investigate and try everything, so make sure there is nothing dangerous around for them
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to sample. For those with babies or young children, baby gates may also be a worthwhile investment.
Where to stock up Whiskers N Paws 10/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, open Monday to Friday (10am-6pm), Saturday and Sunday (10am-7pm), 2552 6200 Husse Hong Kong Kiosk 13 Level 2 The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Monday to Saturday, 12:30-4pm
Vets Next to you, your veterinarian will most likely be the most important person in your dog’s life. You and the vet will need to take several steps, on the arrival of your dog and throughout its life, to maintain its health. Consider seriously getting your dog spayed or neutered. This procedure can usually be done as early as eight weeks of age. Generally, it is performed at around four to six months, plenty of time before the animal has reached the age of reproduction. Female dogs who undergo the procedure benefit from reduced risk of cancer of the mammaries and ovaries, as well as uterine infections. In male dogs, it can help to avoid illnesses such as prostate disease. Studies have shown that dogs who get this procedure live healthier and longer lives, and it prevents contributing to the already large population of animals who need homes. There are a host of illnesses that potential
owners should be aware of and consider vaccinating their dog against. One of the most important vaccinations is for rabies. All dogs in Hong Kong are currently required to be vaccinated against rabies. The antirabies vaccination must be repeated at least every three years, and this comes with the issue of a new dog license. Your vet may also recommend vaccinating your dog against other illnesses, including distemper, parvovirus and leptospirosis.
What’s the best thing about having a dog?
“Having Mochi is like having one more family member to spend time and share your happiness with.” - Hilda Chan, Tseung Kwan O
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cover story Vets in Southside Stanley Veterinary Centre LG/F 10-12 Wong Ma Kok Road., Stanley, open Monday to Fridays from 9am-6pm, Saturdays from 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm, and Sundays from 9am-12:30pm. 2813 2030 Southern District Veterinary Centre 165-167 Ap Lei Chau Main St, open Monday to Sunday, 10am-8pm, 2805 1318 Creature Comforts Housecalls Monday to Saturday (8am to 6pm), 9773 0372 HK Southern District Vet Clinic Unit 402, Floor 4, Stanley Plaza 23, Carmel Road, Stanley, open Monday-Sunday 10am8pm, 2805 1318.
Dog maintenance Regular grooming is important to a dog’s health and well-being, even for so-called hairless breeds. This is the best way to keep track of any new health concerns that might arise and check for any changes in the dog’s appearance and attitude. There are four areas that should be given routine attention: the coat, nails, ears and mouth. Regular brushing with a brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils through its coat, keeping the coat free of tangles and the skin clean and irritant-free. It
is also a great time to check for fleas and flea dirt—the little black specks that indicate your pet is playing host to a flea family. The way you brush your pet—and how often—will largely depend on his or her coat type (fine or coarse, thin or dense, straight or curly, silky or wiry, etc…) and coat length. Short-haired dogs, like pugs or French bulldogs, may only need to be brushed once a week with a soft-bristled brush, grooming glove or soft cloth; breeds with long, silky coats, like the Maltese, may require a more frequent and intense grooming routine to remove tangles and prevent mats. Giving your dog a bath helps to keep it clean, remove dead hair and keep its coat soft and shiny. How often you should do this depends on a number of factors, including weather, health, breed, coat, and activity level. Where these activities are taking place is also a factor. Dogs who spend the day outside rolling around are going to need a bath far more often than ones who spend most of their time on the couch. Most dogs should have their ears cleaned every few weeks. Ear care is particularly important for breeds with hairy or hanging ears, such as Spaniels and Retrievers, since their ears can trap moisture and give rise to the perfect environment for bacteria to grow. The easiest way to clean a dog’s ears is to gently clean only the part of the ear that you can see with a slightly dampened warm
What’s one of your quirks?
“I love oranges, I go crazy for them!!” - Fluffy, Pok Fu Lam cloth. Another option is to buy an ear cleaning solution for pets. Many dogs wear their nails down through regular activity on rough surfaces. Rough, long nails can interfere with a dog’s footing and cause its toes to splay, so some dogs may need their nails clipped several times a month.
Dog groomers in Southside Whiskers N Paws 10/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, open Monday to Friday (10am-6pm), Saturday and Sunday (10am-7pm), 2552 6200 Stanley Veterinary Centre LG/F 10-12 Wong Ma Kok Road., Stanley, 2813 2030
Walks/Hikes There are several regulations that owners should be aware of before they take their dogs outside. A dog that weighs more than 20kg is considered a large dog. A large dog must be held on a leash not more than two metres in length when in a public place,
Photo by Christopher Michel via Wikimedia Commons
Where does your dog like to hang out?
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“Truffle hates sea water but he loves the beach. He likes to get his paws into the soft sand.” - Christy Ma, Sai Kung
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SOUTHSIDE.HK | 33
and may be tied in a public place with the leash length not more than 1.5 metres.There are also restrictions on dogs in public places: • You can be fined if your dog is found fouling in a public place. • You should use specific collection bins for dog waste • Dogs are not allowed on public transport unless they are guide dogs. You can however, take your dog in a taxi for an additional fee if the driver agrees. Dogs are also often banned in restaurants and parks. • Dogs are allowed in all of Hong Kong’s country parks. When in the country parks dogs are allowed to run freely and large dogs are not required to be leashed. • Dogs are not allowed on any gazetted beach (this basically means any beach with a lifeguard). However, if you are looking for a beach to swim with your dog there is a small area between Deepwater Bay and Repulse bay, along the Promenade where dogs are allowed to swim. Dogs may also swim on Stanley back beach and Shek O back beach, but not on the main beaches. The Southside has several dog parks where owners can let their dogs roam free. Cyberport Park 100 Cyberport Rd, Telegraph Bay, Cyberport Aberdeen Tennis and Squash Centre 1 Aberdeen Praya Road, Aberdeen Ap Lei Chau Waterfront Promenade Ping Lan Street, Ap Lei Chau Tai Hang Drive Sitting-out Area Tai Hang Drive, Wan Chai
Tell us about one of your quirks...
“Why would I eat my own dinner when I can have the cat’s? And her breakfast…. and lunch... and I might as well finish off her water too. By the way, can you give me some of that chicken from your dinner?” - Jonas, Fan Ling
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Photo by Dani Bartlett
cover story
In conversation with Sally Andersen, founder of Hong Kong Dog Rescue (HKDR) What should I consider before getting a dog? Puppies are a commitment to a life, that’s the most important thing. Especially because now with good veterinary treatment, dogs can live up to twenty years. So if your child’s five years old, that dog’s going to live until the child’s twentyfive. During that time the child will change, maybe go to university and leave home. So it has to be a puppy for the family, and owners have to understand that they’re going to be responsible for the dog’s life.
What are the main differences between buying a puppy and adopting an older dog? There are so many dogs of all types and sizes that need adoption. The thing about getting a puppy is you’ve got to go through all the training and socialisation. A puppy is like a human baby, you can’t just go out to work and leave it. A lot of people do that. All of these things that are so important in those formative months of a puppy’s life—it absolutely needs that time and companionship to form its whole personality. Puppyhood lasts a short time, especially with small breeds—by the time they’re six months old, they’re already full size. Even bigger dogs are full size by the time they’re a year old. If you adopt a young adult, you’re only missing out on a few months at the beginning and the dog’s already trained. At the same time, dogs are not solitary animals,
they all need company, regardless of age. So if you’re out all day, they tolerate it, but they don’t enjoy it. It’s not good for them.
What is the adoption process like at HKDR? The first thing we do is we ask them to fill out a questionnaire because we want to match the home with the dog. How long is the dog going to be left on its own? Are there children in the home? How much exercise can you give it? Who are you getting the dog for? The questionnaire is so that we can assess their answers, but it’s also to help the adopter think about these questions before they get a dog.
What common misconceptions do people have about adopted dogs? Mainly, it’s that they’re second-hand goods, used, not as good. That they’re somehow faulty. A lot of dogs are fantastic. And they come with the benefit of being ready-trained.
What can I do to ease my dog’s transition from the shop/shelter to home? The most important thing is to leave the dog alone. So many people feel they have to compensate the dog—give it extra love, cuddles, make it feel welcome. And that’s the last thing you should do. Give it space, leave it alone, let it sit in a corner, watch, let it get the feeling of your home. When it’s ready, it will come to you. Sometimes, if it’s a puppy, it’ll be immediate because puppies are very adaptable. If it’s an adult, you just have to wait—sometimes it’s almost instant, sometimes it takes a lot longer. It depends on the temperament—whether it’s an outgoing, confident dog or a shy dog, if was abandoned in the past or something like that, it’ll affect their personality. The most important thing is to just leave the dog alone.
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cover story
DOGS AVAILABLE FOR ADOPTION
Ruth
Dorothy
Timmy
10-month-old female Microchip number: 024 542 872 Ruth is a very friendly and easy-going baby girl. She loves giving kisses and cuddles!
11-month-old female Microchip number: 026 595 060 Dorothy is very sociable with dogs, always ready to start a game!
10-month-old male Microchip number: 025 561 793 Timmy is a playful, energetic boy who loves running around and going out for walks. He also loves belly rubs.
Sparky
Pauline
Felix
1-year-old male Microchip number: 025 346 348 Handsome and gentle Sparky grew up at HKDR and he is ready for his forever home.
7-year-old female Microchip number: 010 349 845 Pauline is only medium-sized and perfect for Hong Kong’s apartment living. She is docile, quiet and very gentle.
6-year-old male Microchip number: 010 332 887 Felix came to HKDR as a puppy and he has waited far too long for a home. Go meet him at HKDR Tai Po Homing Centre and fall in love!
Rudolf
Mountie
Bruno
7-year-old male Microchip number: 010 007 780 Rudolf loves going out for walks and he is perfect in every way.
6-year-old male Microchip number: 092 089 850 Black fluffy boy Mountie is eagerly waiting for someone to maker him part of a family. He is sweet, gentle and laid-back.
6-year-old male Microchip number: 090 366 815 Bruno is a loyal boy who enjoys spending time with his favorite volunteers. He will not stop wagging his tail and following them around once he sees them! To adopt, call Hong Kong Dog Rescue at 2552 6200 or visit hongkongdogrescue.com
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education
BRITISH COUNSEL Thinking about boarding in the UK? British education expert Arabella Davies explains how to nab a top spot
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here have been recent changes to the UK application procedure. What’s the entrance process and when should parents start looking? The entry system for UK boarding schools can vary considerably. At prep level (eight to 13 years) most schools run their own individual entry and assessment process which differs from school to school. For senior schools (or public schools), they have, until recently, relied heavily on a final common entrance exam taken at either 11+ or 13+. All the leading boys and co-ed schools still do 13+ common entrance, whereas most of the leading girls schools still offer an entry point at 11+ as well as 13+. However, as of 2018, almost all of the leading schools will be adopting a new system of pre-testing children at the age of ten and 11. As a result, families need to be considering applying to these senior schools when their children are around nine years and registering their interest by the time their child is 10. Some schools now have a cut-off for registration at 10 years and six months.
How can children prepare for testing from Hong Kong?
What about students who aren’t so strong academically?
Despite the introduction of these pre-tests, schools still require students to sit common entrance at 11 or 13 for streaming purposes. If children are currently being educated outside of the UK system, then most schools will be flexible on the subjects taken, but children will need to have final results in Maths and English as a minimum, with most schools also requiring science and a modern language. Most of the leading schools now offer firm confirmed places to children up to two years before this final exam following pretest, which includes a computerised test and an interview. These tests are designed to assess the potential of a child, not to see how many hours they have been tutored. Basic preparation can be useful by practising the online testing available on the internet - but more as a means of familiarising the child with the testing method rather than cramming them with information.
There are plenty of opportunities for less academic children as well as children with special educational needs such as dyslexia. Most schools want a wide ability range amongst their pupils. The majority are looking for well-rounded individuals and children who are going to embrace the school. The new pretests mean schools are looking beyond just results and want to see the child.
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How should families tackle the school search? The British school menu is endless, and the search can be time consuming, costly and stressful. My advice is to decide if you want a co-ed or single sex school to narrow down the initial list. Then take a look at individual school websites - a lot of information and a “feel” for the school can be garnered this way. If the family is going to remain in Hong Kong while the child is in the UK, I also advise finding out if the schools are “full” boarding, or if they empty over weekends.
My biggest piece of advice is to consider the location—find out the true journey time from Heathrow
But my biggest piece of advice is to consider the location—find out the true journey time from Heathrow to the school and how this will be achieved. Narrow the search to around half-a-dozen schools and then go and visit for a tour—if your child is over eight, I would recommend bringing them with you. Their perspective can be very informative to your final decision.
What questions should parents be asking? Every family will have a different set of questions. Look for inspiring heads and
passionate teachers. Ignore the league tables as they often give an inaccurate view point. For overseas boarders, pastoral care is terribly important - who is actually going to be looking after your child, what is the structure of the day, what do current pupils enjoy about the school and what they would change?
What are the practical issues of managing a child boarding overseas that families should consider? School location is one of the most important factors, bear in mind many schools offer airport pick-ups. Most full boarding schools have two or three exeats (a British term used to describe a weekend leave of absence from a boarding school) in the Christmas term and usually one or two in the spring and summer terms. They run from Friday to Sunday and students must vacate the school premises. There are also ten-day mid-term breaks, with some schools having a 17-day break in the Christmas term. Certainly parents don’t need to fly in for exeats or mid-term breaks but schools will require a family member or appointed guardian to oversee and house the child during these times. So it might be wise to select a school within an hour’s drive of a relative or guardian. All dormitories are cleared at the end of each term, but for overseas boarders, kit can be left for laundering by the school (there is sometimes an additional charge for this). For more help, tips and advice on any of the points raised here, contact Arabella Davies at Their Best Years, theirbestyears.com
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HK adventures
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Fanling Ping Che E ac h mont h, loc Stella al artist a new So explor es cor the c ner of ity
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Photos by Rosanne Yu
arts & culture
READ ALL ABOUT IT!
A rapt audience at last year’s HKILF
Book lovers rejoice! Hong Kong International Literary Festival hits the city again. Catharina Cheung and Jennifer Lee bring you the low-down
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his month, Hong Kong spotlights 36 local and international authors for the annual Hong Kong International Literary Festival. Established in 2001, the festival is held over ten days every autumn, with a programme that includes discussions, literary lunches and dinners, readings, workshops, lectures and debates. Its roster of past authors includes names like Colm Tóibín, Seamus Heaney and Yann Martel. This year’s festival runs from November 3 to 12, and the lineup is no less illustrious. “We’re really proud of it this year,” says festival director Phillipa Milne. “We’ve got some great names: Amy Tan, Jung Chang, Ian Rankin. Some writers are upcoming: Min Jin Lee, who’s a finalist for the National Book Award; Madeleine Thien; and Ken Liu, the sci-fi writer.
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“One of this year’s themes is crime writing. As well as Ian Rankin, we’ve got Hideo Yokoyama, a Japanese writer whose book Six Four was a bestseller in Japan. Also, British best-selling writer Ruth Ware—all three of her
One of this year’s themes is crime writing. As well as Ian Rankin, we’ve got Hideo Yokoyama, a Japanese writer
books were on the New York Times Best Seller List at the same time. And Hong Kong’s own HoKei Chan, author of The Borrowed. “We’ve also got non-fiction writers talking about the relationship between Hong Kong and China, including Jonathan Fenby, and a couple of events focusing on the 20th anniversary of the Handover.” “And then you’ve got the poets— international and local,” adds HKILF board member Professor Julia Kuehn. I’m always happy when poets come because they don’t earn a huge living through their poetry. I’m really excited about Carol Ann Duffy, whose poetry is on the national curriculum in the UK.” Milne has also bookmarked a couple of events. “One writer I’m eager to see is Kamila Shamsie. She’s a Pakistani writer, now living in
book now
A reader meeting his literary idol
Literature is political—it can’t exist in the ivory tower, something you only deal with at school and then forget about
the UK. Her book Home Fire was long-listed for the Man Booker Prize. It’s about extremism in the UK. I’m also looking forward to hearing from a British writer called Claire Fuller, who’s written a gorgeous book called Swimming Lessons.” As part of the festival’s aim to promote higher levels of literacy in Hong Kong and nurture globally engaged citizens, it has as one of its key components the Young Reader’s Festival. Founded seven years ago, this is aimed at students aged 14 and up, and gives them a chance to interact with festival authors through talks and workshops in schools across Hong Kong. “It’s absolutely vital that we don’t just go to the international schools,” says Kuehn, “but that we also go to the local schools that otherwise wouldn’t have access to international children’s writers and illustrators.” “It’s a really lovely opportunity for the students to meet a real life writer, someone who does it for a living,” adds Milne. Where do Milne and Kuehn want to go from here? Both agree the answer is up, up and away. “We’d like to grow,” says Kuehn. “We want as many people in Hong Kong—expats, locals and visitors—to come through the doors of one of the events and get together to talk freely about books, ideas or areas they want to learn more about. We want it to become part of the Hong Kong calendar. “In many ways the festival has become more ideas-centred. We’re in such an important place at such an important time, so certain things just require discussion—whether it’s the rise of Asia, the rise of China, freedom of expression, whatever it may be. Because literature is political—it can’t exist in the ivory tower, something you only deal with at school and then
Caption
An in-depth conversation about all things literary
forget about. I think all of our authors know that what they’re doing is inherently very political and very important.” “And on another level, it’s just really fun to read a book and get in a room full of people who’ve read the book and want to discuss it,” adds Milne. “One of my favourite moments of the past few years was an event we held at HKU with North Korean defector Hyeonseo Lee. She talked about her book which detailed her escape from North Korea. The room was packed with 300 people listening silently, some on the stairs.
It was such a diverse audience—all age groups, races, men, women. Everyone was fascinated to hear this amazing story of bravery. “I think it’s vital world cities have their own literary festivals, to provide a platform for local writers, to connect local and international writers and for people to discuss ideas openly and freely. But funding is an issue. We’re a registered charity, so we have to fundraise every year to make sure the festival can exist, grow and flourish. So I suppose fundamentally what we want is more money please!”
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arts & culture In conversation with...Xu Xi, author How do you think being a ‘thirdculture’ woman has impacted the way you view Hong Kong?
What can you tell us about one of your upcoming works, This Fish Is Fowl? It so rarely happens in the literary world that editors ask writers for material—I just decided to write more essays. The essay form gives me a certain freedom that fiction doesn’t. I was writing pieces about identity, examining what kind of American I am, which led me to thinking about being Chinese. I wrote a tongue-in-cheek piece titled, Why I Stopped Being Chinese. Then I wrote a piece about calendars and Google. In Taiwan, their calendar begins from 1912, from the founding of the Republic. So I thought, how do calendars work? Why do we use AD and BC, and what if you don’t believe in Christianity? What is a big defining moment in the modern world? It’s got to be Google, so I created a calendar that is Before Google and After Google. Over time I realised I had a book, and packaged my essays into a few major themes. This Fish Is Fowl is my way of thinking about myself and my identity, because I’m often told I’m neither fish nor fowl.
Are you hopeful about the city’s literary scene? Literature is hard these days; we are at the cusp of a new form of existence for human beings, which includes how we read and
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Photo by Paul Hilton
I find ‘third-culture’ a limiting description— it’s as if there are only three cultures. ‘Transnational’ says it better because I cross national borders. I was an Indonesian national growing up in Hong Kong, I became an American citizen, I was a homeowner in New Zealand and I’ve also lived in Singapore and travelled around the world. Hong Kong is very transnational in terms of its culture—it’s very cosmopolitan—although its heart is still very much Cantonese. When we were a British colony it felt more like [a simple east-west divide], but your average Hong Kong kid now likes Japanese culture and Korean culture and goes to mainland China on trips. The intra-Asia influence is very strong, and they think nothing of it. But there’s no multicultural vision in this city, unlike perhaps Singapore or New York. You have your French and Canadians and Indians and all other peoples, but they all are those nationalities, despite living here. When you’re multicultural, you could be Singaporean, for example, but you still embrace all these different cultures. consume language and information. You go into a library now and the first thing you see are rows of computers. If I was the parent of a young child today, I would put them in front of a computer and get them to learn programming. All this happened in such a tiny period of time. True, there’s been a shift from the Kindle back to print, but everything’s also up in the Cloud.
To be a writer, you need first to find the thing that really matters to you and write about that, whatever it is
This global change will affect literature, it will affect writing. People are writing their novels on Facebook and they’re putting what is essentially their journal online. That’s what I think of the future of literature, it’s tied to how human beings are going to evolve as a result of technology and connectivity.
What do you think local writers can do to make their work “internationally appealing”? Should they even aim for such a goal? I think that’s the wrong thing to aim for. To be a writer, you need first to find the thing that really matters to you and write about that, whatever it is. It has nothing to do with making it appealing, and everything to do with making it mean something. If it’s important and means something then the readers will come. Why do we still read Austen, Montaigne, or Confucius? Because they had something important to say! I think writers in Hong Kong are too influenced by commercial culture. I know it’s hard to be a writer and it helps to get government funding like they do in Singapore, but if your goal is to be commercially successful, study what the commercially successful writers do. Take Stephen King, he’s a one-man enterprise, but he is a good storyteller first. Stephen King probably didn’t sit around going, “now, how can I make my work commercially successful?” He became that. Becoming a writer is like trying to become the world’s best surfer, you’ve got to practice, do well, know your craft, and compete. That’s all it is in essence.
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arts & culture Highlights NOV 3
Dinner with Ian Rankin When Ian Rankin sat down to write what would become the first Inspector Rebus book, the young PhD student wasn’t intending to write a crime novel—and he certainly never imagined the publishing juggernaut that would grow up around his gruff Scottish detective. Since then, Rankin’s works have sold more than 30 million copies, been adapted for television and radio, and earned Rankin a place in the pantheon of great British mystery authors. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to enjoy an intimate dinner at Pomegranate private kitchen with Rankin as he discusses his indelible characters and celebrated career. 7:30-10:30pm, Pomegranate Kitchen. $1,200, ticket includes dinner with wine.
final case—the murder of a local billionaire.Chan talks to Albert Tam about what makes Hong Kong a compelling setting for crime fiction. 2-3pm, naked Hub. $100.
NOV 5
30 Years of Rebus with Ian Rankin 2017 marks 30 years of Ian Rankin’s legendary Scottish sleuth, Inspector John Rebus. Fans have followed him across 21 books and made Rankin the single biggest-selling British crime author. So why does Rebus, the morose, hard-drinking loner, resonate with so many readers worldwide? Here, Rankin appears in conversation with Stephen Vines to talk about his career, his latest book, Rather Be the Devil, and what the future holds for Rebus. 4-5pm, Wang Gungwu Theatre, Graduate House, University of Hong Kong. $125.
NOV 9
Carol Ann Duffy and John Sampson Much-loved British Poet Laureate Carol Ann Duffy brings her 14-year-long collaboration with court musician John Sampson to the HKILF. Duffy will read from her Collected Poems, comprising works from The World’s Wife, Rapture and The Bees, whilst Sampson plays an array of fascinating period and modern instruments. This delightful interplay of thoughtprovoking poetry and exuberant music will make for a unique evening not to be missed. 7-8pm, Upstairs, Fringe Club. $125.
NOV 6
Amy Tan: Where the Past Begins Amy Tan returns to the childhood memories that formed the emotional nucleus of her beloved novels in her memoir, Where the Past Begins. Due for release in October, the memoir offers a composite portrait of Tan woven out of longforgotten memories and boxes of journals, letters and other family memorabilia. Duncan Clark will lead Tan in a conversation about her craft and the origins of her creative impulse. 7-8:30pm, Wang Gungwu Theatre, Graduate House, University of Hong Kong. $125.
NOV 7
Xu Xi: From Fiction to Nonfiction
20 Years of Hong Kong Verse In this panel, local poets Louise Ho, Nicholas Wong, Michael O’Sullivan and Chris Song will join moderator Tammy Ho Lai-Ming for a discussion of Hong Kong poetry in the 20 years since the handover. What is Hong Kong poetry? Who is writing it? What is it about? What are the restrictions and possibilities? Does Hong Kong require a particular kind of articulation? Does Hong Kong, a unique place, activate a unique language construct? How can poets and readers cross the boundary between Chineselanguage and English-language verse? 12:30-1:30pm, naked Hub. $100.
NOV 4
A Hong Kong Crime Scene In The Borrowed, Chan Ho-kei’s third book and the first to be translated into English, we follow Hong Kong detective Kwan Chun-dok across several decades and through various pivotal historic moments, from the 1989 Tiananmen Square massacre to the 1997 handover, up to the present day when Kwan is asked to solve his
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City of Protest Join Hong Kong-based lawyer and writer Antony Dapiran for an in-depth conversation on his book, City of Protest, which was released earlier this year as part of the Penguin Hong Kong series. In City of Protest, Dapiran illuminates the cultural and structural forces behind Hong Kong’s public protests, placing 2014’s Occupy Movement and 2016’s “Fishball Riots” in Mong Kok in a broader historical context. Narrated by Natasha Khan. 12:30-1pm, Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences. $100.
NOV 8
Madeleine Thien: Do Not Say We Have Nothing Winner of Canada’s most prestigious literary award, the Scotiabank Giller Prize, Do Not Say We Have Nothing follows three talented musicians who meet at the Shanghai Music Conservatory in the early 1960s, just as the stormclouds of the Cultural Revolution are gathering on the horizon. Author Madeleine Thien speaks with Melanie Ho about her novel and about writing history’s grand tragedies on an intimate scale. 8-9pm, Upstairs, Fringe Club. $100.
Photo by Babak Salari
NOV 4
Often described as a “transnational” or “thirdculture” author, Xu Xi—Indonesian-Chinese, HK-raised, US-educated—writes with first-hand knowledge of the insider-outsider’s experience in Hong Kong. Here Xu Xi talks about her two most recent works, departures from her previous fiction work: Dear Hong Kong, a memoir written in the form of a “Dear John” letter to Hong Kong, and Interruptions, an ekphrastic essay collection in conversation with the photographs of David Clarke. 6:30-7:30pm, Upstairs, Fringe Club. $100.
NOV 12
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eating
A HAIRY SITUATION Catharina Cheung investigates the annual rush for hairy crabs
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imilar to the annual craze for pumpkin spice lattes in the Western nations, for about two months every autumn, multitudes in Asia go absolutely bonkers for hairy crabs. And we all know Hong Kong foodies are second to none when it comes to obsessing over edibles. Some even deliberately make week-long pilgrimages to China where they can feast right at the crabs’ watery homes. If you’re scoffing at making travel plans just for a few decapods, or just starting to dip your toes in the hairy crab game, fear not: Hong Kong restaurants have plenty of top quality offerings. Read on and find out why the city loves these hirsute crustaceans.
to push their views onto you, but it’s all a matter of personal taste. The bright orange roe from female crabs hardens a little after cooking, while the golden essence from male crabs has a stickier texture likened to salted egg yolk. Both versions are delicious, and are the cornerstone of this culinary furour. These crabs have been considered a delicacy for hundreds of years. The 17th century playwright Li Yu once famously gushed in writing, “I can’t even begin to describe or make clear why I love them, why I adore their sweet taste, and why I can never forget them… Dear crab, dear crab, you and I, are we to be lifelong companions?”
What is a hairy crab? Don’t be put off by its name; hairy crabs are actually Chinese mitten crabs, the moniker refers to the fuzzy bristles on its fore claws. They are native to the Chinese coastal regions in the east. Specimens reared in Yangcheng Lake near Suzhou and Hangzhou are the most prized because they are said to taste so fresh and sweet that no accompanying condiments are required. Confusingly, purebred hairy crabs are actually a Dutch variety, brought over to Holland years ago by Chinese ships and left in its waters. The species from China are all mixed breeds now. Both vary in taste; the purebreds are more mild and delicate in taste and the roe is more of a yellow green, while the mixed breeds have a stronger flavour and contain roe that is more orange.
How do I eat hairy crabs? We won’t lie, consuming hairy crabs is an intricate and often messy process, but the results are more than worth it. As food writer Fuchsia Dunlop says, “you cannot avoid a tussle with shell and flesh: crunch, suck, crack, lick, probe, slurp.” First, the crab should be flipped over and the underbelly armour segment prized out (if the segment is vaguely triangular it’s a male, if it is circular it’s female). Open the top shell to get to the rich roe hidden underneath, then
break the rest of the body in half for easy access with seafood scissors and crab forks. Don’t forget the succulent morsels in the claws and legs! It all sounds fairly grim and daunting, but most restaurants will do majority of the hard work for you. One thing to keep in mind is that according to Chinese medicine, crabs are a ‘cold’ or ‘cooling’ food—a concept related more to yin and yang than to actual temperature. They should therefore never been eaten in conjunction with other ‘cold’ foods such as bamboo shoots, lotus roots, bitter gourd, or pomelo. In particular, eating it with persimmons is thought to be a toxic combination. The heart, gills and stomach of the crab should also be discarded as they are supposedly even ‘colder’ than the flesh. To combat the ‘coolness’, you need to balance it with ‘warming’ and ‘heaty’ foods, so hairy crabs are often dipped in ginger- and red sugar-infused Zhenjiang vinegar, and accompanied with Shaoxing wine or ginger tea.
Anything else I should know?
Purebred hairy crabs are actually a Dutch variety, brought over to Holland years ago by Chinese ships and left in its waters
Female crabs ripen first, around the ninth lunar month, while male crabs peak approximately a month later. There is plenty of debate surrounding the question of which sex of crab is the best to eat, and no doubt you will encounter opinionated enthusiasts who will try
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This year, there will most likely be a shortage of crabs from the famous Yangcheng Lake and Tai Lake. The mainland Chinese authorities have a more relaxed stance towards food safety standards than Hong Kong’s Food and Environmental Hygiene Department. Last year’s crab samples from Tai Lake were found to have an excessive level of dioxin, a type of carcinogen, so Hong Kong authorities have clamped down even tighter on examination standards this year. Many mainland aquafarms are finding our export regulations too stringent and complicated—all hairy crab businesses have to provide veterinary and health certificates for their exports to Hong Kong, as well as pass our local dioxin testing—and are considering not exporting to our shores.
crab a bite
Expect to find more Dutch and Japanese varieties this year, which are no less delicious in our opinion and also safer to consume.
What if I don’t want to splurge on eating out? You can always buy hairy crabs and cook them yourself. Leaving their bonds intact, rinse the crabs well under running water then steam for 15-20 minutes. It is important to place them belly up on a dish to prevent the cooked roe from leaking out. You can also add a traditional Shanghainese touch by adding perilla leaves in the water to bring out the crab’s natural flavours. Make your own dipping sauce by mixing Zhenjiang vinegar with red sugar and a dash of soy sauce, garnished with ginger slivers. Don’t forget the warming Shaoxing huadiao wine, and
while there’s no real need to splash out on the best 30 year old stuff, purchase a vintage that is at least eight years old. You can also buy a few pieces of dried plum to go with the liquor at any Chinese grocer—tell them you’re going to have it with rice wine and they should know what to bring you. The wine can either be served warm like Japanese sake or consumed as is. Drink the good stuff on its own, but if you’ve chosen to just try a normal grade wine, you can also boil the plums in the liquor for a little while to enhance the flavour. Old San Yang A well-known Shanghainese grocery, Old San Yang carries a wide range of foodstuff
from Shanghai, including jinhua Chinese ham, Shanghainese zongzi dumplings, and preserves. Their hairy crabs retail for slightly above or below the $200 price mark each, and staff are willingly to teach you how to cook them properly. G/F, 4 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay
Where can I eat hairy crabs? There are enough restaurants which serve hairy crabs to make your head spin, but according to a local foodie and socialite known only by his first name Brian, here are some of the best in the 852. Depending on provenance, establishments charge anywhere between $150 to close to $1,000 per crab. Man Wah 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Road Central Man Ho Chinese Restaurant 3/F, JW Marriott Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Victoria City 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai Kanizen 3 Thomson Road, Wanchai Wah Kee Wing Cheong Ho 460 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay
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eating
NIBBLES News from the dining scene.
Casa Lisboa launches brunch menu
Share your love story to win a wedding banquet
New a la carte menu at Lobster Pot
Casa Lisboa has just launched a brand new eightcourse brunch, available on weekends and public holidays. Boasting fresh ingredients imported from Portugal, the restaurant aims to reinvent original Portuguese dishes while still retaining traditional elements. Diners will enjoy six starters to share—including garlic octopus, gazpacho, and sapateira cold crab salad—followed by a choice of one main course per person. Options include Leita֘o à Bairrada suckling pig and Bacalhau à Bras (salted codfish, egg and potato). For dessert, we recommend the biscuit cake. Brunch prices are $350 per head. Free-flow drinks can also be added on, starting at $88. 2/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central. casalisboa.com.hk
Fine-dining restaurant The Ocean by Olivier Bellin is offering one lucky couple the chance to win a free wedding banquet. Contestants will need to ‘like’ Olivier Bellin on social media, and submit their love story along with at least five pre-wedding photos to belinda.lin@rubison.com.hk by November 30. The winning couple stand to enjoy a complimentary wedding banquet for up to 80 guests worth up to $200,000. This includes a cocktail party at Cabana, a five-course dinner and musical entertainment. 3/F, Lobby A, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay.
Lobster Pot has launched a new all-day menu, upgrading some of its most popular dishes such as Lobster Roll and Lobster Linguini. Signature dishes such as the Lobster Popcorn are still available, but diners can also enjoy new offerings like Lobster Risotto. The restaurant has always focused on serving quality lobster in a casual takeaway environment, balancing the wellknown creaminess of the crustacean with zingy ingredients like lime, coriander, garlic, chorizo and chili. Opening hours run from 11am-10 or 11pm. 3 Ship Street, Wan Chai. lobsterpot.hk
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bitesize
Thanksgiving at Wolfgang’s Steakhouse Wolfgang’s Steakhouse has curated a menu specifically for Thanksgiving lunch or dinner, with warming classics such as Pumpkin Butternut Soup, Sous Vide Turkey, and Dry Aged Rib Eye. Finally just as important as mains, Wolfgang’s has also created a homemade pecan pie to finish off the meal. The Thanksgiving menu is priced at $588, and is available for both lunch and dinner services from November 22-24. 1/F, Printing House, 6 Duddell Street, Central. wolfgangssteakhouse.hk
The Coffee Academïcs brings world’s most expensive coffee to Hong Kong
Osteria Marzia bring coastal Italian charm in Fleming Hotel relaunch
The Coffee Academïcs has received 7kg of the highly sought after batch of Panama Geisha last month a 100-pound lot of the stuff fetched USD$601 per pound at auction. The Coffee Academïcs’ share is roughly the equivalent of 300 cups. From now until March, the coffee house will host special brewing workshops and offer limited edition 601 Experience kits (two types, priced at $2,500 and $1,000). Four of the chain’s locations across Hong Kong are now serving hand-brewed Geisha. Limited to only five cups per shop, each rare brew is priced at $400 and comes with a snack and photo certificate. For details, visit thecoffeeacademics.com/601
Just ahead of the group’s fifth anniversary, Black Sheep Restaurants has opened its 16th venue, Osteria Marzia at newly relaunched Fleming Hotel. Head chef Luca Marinelli and team will prepare diverse recipes from the Italian seaside, highlighting regional specialties. Among the highlights are crudo raw plates and chef Marinelli’s famous pasta dishes. Worth looking out for is the Spaghetti Ricci which has an Aglio, Olio, e Peperoncino base and is topped with Italian and Japanese sea urchin, and the Lombata Marzia, their only red meat offering of beef sirloin grilled with anchovy butter. The nautical restaurant interior perfectly matches with The Fleming Hotel’s maritime heritage theme. All hotel guests will be served a complimentary continental breakfast at Osteria Marzia. G/F, The Fleming, 41 Fleming Road, Wan Chai. osteriamarzia.com.hk
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home & living
PAUL KEMBER The co-founder of architecture and design company KplusK, Paul Kember shows Jessie Yeung around a recently redesigned home in Tai Tam Tell me a little about yourself. I’m from London originally, and worked there for ten years. I came to Hong Kong 21 years ago and started the business with my twin brother, who had already been working here for four years.
What’s it like doing design in Hong Kong? I love working with local contractors and craftspeople, the metal-workers, the joiners; you get superb quality and it’s much more affordable than Europe. We work all around Asia: Thailand, Bali, Malaysia, mainland China. Now wherever we work in the region, it feels like coming home.
How did you get into architecture? When my brother and I were fifteen, an architect put on a lunchtime lecture series about his favourite gothic buildings. It was very inspirational; only four guys turned up for it, and all four of us became architects.
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When my brother and I were fifteen, an architect put on a lunchtime series about his favourite gothic buildings...only four guys turned up it, and all four of us became architects
How would you describe KplusK and what it offers? We’re architects and interior designers, so we do a whole range of projects from sustainable housing to recording studios. We are driven by sustainable architecture in terms of energy
and material usage. A lot of companies have been working along sustainability guidelines, such as LEED and BEAM Plus, which I think is wonderful.
cliffhanger
What are easy ways to make a home more sustainable? Right now we’re looking at thermal comfort levels; if you can reduce the humidity in a space, then you don’t need to cool it as much. Something as simple as a dehumidifier helps a lot. Air conditioners that rely on dehumidifying rather than cooling are also about 30 per cent more energy efficient.
How did you choose this project? We were commissioned by the owners, who are old friends and old clients. We didn’t do any structural changes, it was all interior design; there were completely bare spaces we needed to turn into positive living environments.
How did you tailor the design to your clients’ lifestyle? With every project, we ask the clients to draw up a ‘dream list’ of things they’d love to have. This whole family is very musical, so we set up practice rooms. The mother has a collection of recorders, so we made a little museum piece for her. The parents are both extremely enthusiastic about driving, so there’s a Formula 1 training system in the basement. We designed it from an ergonomic and space-oriented point of view; the kids’ floor, for instance, has a series of sliding doors so each
child can have an enclosed bedroom but also open them up to share the space.
What’s your favourite thing in the home? The building has a beautiful flow to it - it’s a very open environment where the main staircase acts as a central spine, and you can sort of float through the building. When they’re entertaining, it’s just a magical feeling going from the pool deck up through the main living space and into the sun deck.
Are the different parts of the home similar in style or independent? The space feels quite unified because we used a limited palette of materials, and we focused on the intertwining of the spaces with subtle levels of privacy. For example, the staircase is extremely open, so the private spaces are at the far end from the staircase.
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home & living
What do you aim for in projects?
Any current or upcoming projects?
We want to create spaces that enrich you, that physically make you feel better in a way that goes beyond just functionality. This follows the work of modernist architects like John Lautner, who created buildings with the purpose of making the inhabitants feel calm and spiritually enriched.
We’re working on a big master plan in Taiwan; it’s 150 hectares, which is basically a large town. On a smaller scale, I’m working on converting a Wong Chuk Hang hotel for Ovolo into a funky backpacker hostel.
With every project, we ask the clients to draw up a ‘dream list’
What is your best piece of design advice? Think beyond the boundaries of your everyday living to how you really want to experience life.
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big day out
NG TUNG CHAI WATERFALLS Tara Smyth beats the heat in Tai Mo Shan
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017 has seen scorching temperatures and record rainfall across the region. Getting out on the hiking trails these last few months has been no mean feat, even for the hardiest of trail hikers. One solution is to find a trail that either regularly crosses streams, or leads you to rock pools and waterfalls for a cooling-off dip. Enter Ng Tung Chai Waterfall Path, over on the North side of Tai Mo Shan. Not only are the pools refreshing, pristine and crystal clear, but the waterfalls that feed them are breathtaking. Taking the most direct route, get yourself to Ng Tung Chai Road off Lam Kam Road (a little east of Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden). If you are driving, there is a small car park half way up this road—this might get busy at weekends.
Not only are the pools refreshing, pristine and clear, but the waterfalls that feed them are breathtaking
You will see signs for “waterfalls” periodically placed along Ng Tung Chai Road. Continue for about 700 metres before reaching the trailhead. Once on the trail you will come across a temple, named Man Tak Garden, on your right within a few minutes. I have never seen it open and so have never explored what is behind the confines of its ornate walls and gate, but it seems like a tranquil place set in a stunning location. Just one minute after the temple you will come across a small water catchment with a nice waterfall flowing into it. Compared with what is to come, this pool is tiny and not worth the stop for a dip. Having said that, I did manage to squeeze myself, and 10 Scouts, into this little catchment on one occasion—just for the fun of it!
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A few minutes later you will arrive at a fork in the path, an information board and a sign saying “Tai Mo Shan Country Park”. The right hand fork will take you all the way up to Tai Mo Shan, bypassing all the waterfalls. Ignore this path and take the trail sign-posted “Tai Mo Shan via Waterfalls”. Here the trail becomes steeper and a touch more challenging. It’s a no-go for toddlers and young children who are partial to a
good whinge and whine. For the inexperienced hiker it may seem tough, but it is not impossible and the rewards are worth the effort. Wear proper training shoes and do not be tempted to tackle this trail in Crocs, TEVAs or flip-flops. You will reach the first waterfall, unsurprisingly named “Bottom Fall”, after around 15 minutes of climbing. Duck off the path to the left (at the signpost) for 20 metres or so to reach the pool and the fall. This fall and pool alone are worth the journey—the spot is so stunning and secluded that you may wish to stay here for
don’t go chasing...
the rest of the day and not bother with the rest. However, there is bigger and better to come, so after a dip and a snack here, do consider making the effort to continue up. “Middle Fall”—less than 10 minutes away— is another beautiful spot. Again it might be tempting to kick back and spend the rest of the day here. The waterfall is mesmerizing. The path gets steeper and narrower from here on, so if your kids are moaning beyond acceptable levels then stay where you are and enjoy. If, however, the kids are chomping at the bit to continue up, hit the trail again and brace yourselves—the best is yet to come! Take it slowly; take regular, short rest stops if you need to; and watch your footing. The irregularly stepped path is steep and narrow in places. Advise your kids to face forward and walk in single file, whilst hiking on tricky paths. After about 30 minutes you will reach the “Main Fall” and here is where your reward
The stones that lie on the bottom of this shallow pool offer a striking mosaic of colours
awaits. A large pool fed by a single, narrow, 30 metre waterfall—perfect for swimming and fairly shallow so good for the kids too. The pool is also great for dogs. The stones that lie on the bottom of this shallow pool offer a striking mosaic of colours and shapes in the sunshine. Large boulders around the pool allow you to take up residence for a few hours, enjoy a picnic and forget the stresses and strains of your normal life back in the big city.
There is one more fall, a little further up, called “Scatter Fall” but, the last time I visited, a landslip had made the path a little precarious in parts. Having experienced the aforementioned three falls and their pools already, continuing up to Scatter Fall could be worth it for hardy hikers, but it’s not a necessity for the average family. Should you choose not to bother with Scatter Fall, turn around and head back down to Lam Kam Road when you are done. Take care with your footing—going downhill can be just as hard, if not harder, as going uphill—and enjoy the views laid out before you, which you would not have seen on the way up.
Tara Smyth runs photography company Nitty Gritty Image. For details, visit facebook.com/NittyGrittyImages
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travel
Paradise found
Above: Four Seasons at Anahita; Below: Le Caudan Waterfront
Shreena Patel heads to Mauritius
I
f you were to look at a map of the world you would see the island of Mauritius as a very small dot in the Indian Ocean. But size isn’t everything. As the plane from Hong Kong descends slowly beneath the clouds, the island’s jagged mountains, green fields and sparkling turquoise waters emerge like something out of a Jules Verne novel. Over the next week, I explore a few of the island’s most idyllic holiday spots, learn a little of the history that has produced such a rich cultural mix, and find out how Mauritius is positioning itself for the future. Mauritius had been known to Arab sailors as early as 900 AD. They named it Dina Arobi (Abandoned Island). However, their priority was to trade and given the perilous journey, they—like others who came across it—saw little advantage establishing a permanent settlement. Thus, Mauritius lay relatively undisturbed until the end of the fifteenth century, the dawn of Europe’s age of exploration. A dispute soon arose between the two major naval powers
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of the era—Spain and Portugal—regarding newly claimed land in the New World. To settle the matter, they agreed upon the Treaty of Tordesillas in 1494. This treaty divided in two the entire unexplored world (imagine a vertical line from pole to pole across the Atlantic Ocean): Spain would lay claim to land to the west of the line and Portugal would possess that which lay to the East. Portugal was eager to find a sea route to the East—thereby bypassing the Silk Road— that would allow it to extract the region’s treasures, most notably spices. It succeeded in 1498, when Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama became the first person to sail
Mauritius had been known to Arab sailors as early as 900AD
directly from Europe to India. His route, via the Indian Ocean, was followed by exploratory expeditions and it was upon one of these that, in 1507, Portuguese navigator Diogo Fernandes Pereira stumbled across what would become known as the Mascarene islands (present-day Mauritius, Réunion and Rodrigues). The Portuguese used Mauritius as a port of call when sailing to and from the East. The island began to appear on European maps—at first under its Arab name and later as Ilha do Cirne (Swan Island, named after Pereira’s ship, “Cirne”). Mauritius’ present-day name is thanks to the Dutch, who established the first permanent settlement in 1598 and named it after Prince Maurice of Nassau. The Dutch also introduced sugar cane plants which came from Java,
island life Indonesia, which they used to make rum. The arrival of humans on the island sealed the fate of the Dodo—a big, flightless bird that until then had enjoyed an absence of predators and proved all too easy to catch. In 1710, the Dutch abandoned the island in favour of the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. Five years later, the French arrived and renamed Mauritus Île de France. It was under the French that Port Louis harbour was built. The French cultivated the sugar cane plantations to enable the production and export of sugar as well as rum. Trade boomed. As the 18th century drew to a close, the British were becoming increasingly agitated by this French foothold in the Indian Ocean. There were two reasons for this: firstly, French privateers stationed in Mauritius were launching frequent attacks on British merchant vessels travelling to and from India; secondly, the British feared the island’s potential as springboard from which the French might launch assaults on Britain’s interests in India. As William Pitt (who would later become British Prime Minister) put it, “As long as the French hold the Île de France, the British will never be masters of India.” Eventually, the British Royal Navy launched a military campaign and in 1810 the British conquered the Mascarenes. In 1833, the British abolished slavery in the colonies and needed to establish a new system of recruitment for a much needed workforce. Enter “indentured labourers”—men and women who signed a contract by which they agreed to work for a certain number of years in return for transportation (in this case, to Mauritius) and—upon their arrival—food, clothing and shelter. On the face of it, this was
The Natural History Museum
free labour not slave labour, but the reality was often much more exploitative.
The arrival of humans on the island sealed the fate of the Dodo
Indentured labourers were imported as early as 1826, but large-scale importation ran from 1834 to 1922, what the British Government called the “Great Experiment”. During this period, some 462,000 indentured labourers arrived in Mauritius, 95 percent of whom were from India, with others coming from China, the Comoros, Madagascar, Mozambique, South East Asia and Yemen.
Some eventually returned home or emigrated to other colonies, but many settled in Mauritius. An estimated 70 percent of the current population is descended from these labourers. Mauritius gained its independence in 1968. Since then, it has diversified from a lowincome economy highly dependent on sugar to focus more on manufacturing and services, achieving one of the highest per capita incomes in Africa. Major industries include tourism, clothing textiles, sugar, offshore banking and financial services, seafood and ICT. Sugarcane still occupies 90 per cent of the country’s cultivated land but represents only 15 per cent of exports. In the last few years, the Mauritian government has launched a number of economic incentives to attract industry, including a film rebate scheme. Capitalising on the island’s outstanding natural beauty, the government offers movie producers up to
April 18. “This is the only country in the world where the stranger is not asked “How do you like this place?” This is indeed a large distinction. Here the citizen does the talking about the country himself; the stranger is not asked to help. You get all sorts of information. From one citizen you gather the idea that Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius. Another one tells you that this is an exaggeration; that the two chief villages, Port Louis and Curepipe, fall short of heavenly perfection; that nobody lives in Port Louis except upon compulsion, and that Curepipe is the wettest and rainiest place in the world.” —Mark Twain’s musings on Mauritius in Following the Equator (1897), in which he chronicled his journey through the British Empire two years earlier. Port Louis Harbour
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travel
The Central Market
The Blue Penny Museum
a 40 per cent rebate on filming expenditures. Mauritius has already served as the backdrop for a number of Bollywood films, but this year Serenity became the first major Hollywood film to shoot on the island.
Most people I encounter speak at least three languages
Thanks to its large waters, Mauritius also claims an Exclusive Economic Zone of 1.9 million square kilometers, one of the 25 largest in the world. Its government has said it wants to transform Mauritius “from an island state into an ocean state” through the development of ocean-related industries, from seabed exploration for hydrocarbon and minerals, to port-related activities. The Prime Minister has also announced the creation of a second passenger terminal in 2019 (scheduled to be completed by 2020). This initiative is one of several projects that aim to
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modernise the island’s infrastructure—another is a light rail system, for which construction began in September. The population is multiethnic, multireligious (Hinduism is the largest religion) and multilingual. Most people I encounter speak at least three languages: Creole, French and English. “The official language of the courts and of government is English, but our newspapers are in French and we speak Creole,” explains one islander. Mauritius is home to a host of wildlife, with many species endemic to the island. Most visitors come from the EU, primarily the UK, but I’m told the number has declined as a result of Brexit and the weaker pound. Overall tourist numbers have been buoyed by an increasing number of visitors from Asia, particularly mainland China and Hong Kong— direct flights operate from both regions. This month, the International Kreol Festival takes place from November 17-26, with a series of events and activities to celebrate creole culture through music, arts, language and food.
The craft market
a hotter and more humid affair (lows of 20C, highs of 29C). October and May are transitional months.
What to do I highly recommend a day or two in the capital, Port Louis, to learn about the island—it’s a small city and very walkable. • The Blue Penny Museum is a great place to start. It provides just enough historical context without overwhelming visitors. The section on the development of the postal service is a little niche, but don’t forget to catch a glimpse of the 1847 Blue Penny and Red Penny stamps, among the rarest stamps in the world. There’s also a section dedicated to Paul et Virginie, a
When to go A year-round holiday destination. A relatively dry winter from June to September, with lows of 17C and highs of around 25C. Summer is Port Louis Theatre
island life
Beachside bliss at Îlot Mangénie , Shangri-La’s private island
Above right: Aapravasi Ghat, where indentured labourers first stepped ashore
I highly recommend a day or two in...Port Louis to learn about the island
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famous novel published in 1788 and set in Mauritius during French rule. From there, walk along Le Caudan Waterfront, filled with a variety of shops, cafes, restaurants and a craft market. Walk up Place d’Armes, a boulevard lined with royal palms, which leads up to Government House (spot the statue of Queen Victoria outside). Nearby, you will also find the Natural History Museum, which houses a dodo skeleton, and the Port Louis Municipal Theatre. Head further inland to Fort Adelaide, a hilltop fortress built by the British—the old barracks are now little boutiques. Back at the waterfront, visit UNESCO World Heritage Site Aapravasi Ghat, where interned labourers first came ashore and which now chronicles their struggles.
On your way back to the town centre, pass by the Central Market or Chinatown and pick up a tasty local snack. The wider island has some beautiful places to explore. • Visit the Hindu pilgrimage site of Grand Bassin (the Sacred Lake)—in the crater of an extinct volcano, 1,800 feet above sea level. • Explore the Black River Gorges National Park, with views across the island and out to the Indian Ocean. • Visit Eureka House, a 200-year-old creole mansion and former sugar plantation. • Bike or hike through Domaine de l’Etoile, a beautiful nature reserve with protected flora and fauna and plenty of fun activities. • Find out how to turn sugarcane into rum at Rhumerie de Chamarel and try a range of flavours, from spices, to vanilla, to coconut.
Did you know…? In 2016, the highest value product exported from Mauritius was prepared or preserved tuna, skipjack and bonito—worth a total of US$ 246,074.88 million (source: World Bank) Place d’Armes
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travel
Where to stay
Maradiva Villas Resort and Spa
Be coust fo ple r s
Maradiva is not just a resort, it’s more of a luxury club. CEO Sanjiv Ramdanee is somewhat of a connoisseur of luxury and a very well-connected man. His team offers highly original experiences, including swimming with wild dolphins, daytrips to see the active volcano on Réunion and cruising round the island in one of the resort’s two Rolls Royces (a white Phantom and a black Ghost). These things come at an extra cost, but what Maradiva offers is the flexibility to make it happen—be it a night of partying with the entire cast of Moulin Rouge, or the lifelong dream of a female Russian guest to ride naked on a white horse at dawn (both true stories). In fact the resort will officially launch its own private members club later this year. Amongst other privileges, members can enjoy insider access to events and award shows across the sports, film, arts, food and fashion industries. This month, the resort launches the first of its ‘Artist in Residence’ projects. Renowned Indian artist Professor Satish Gupta will be exhibiting its art at the resort. During his stay, he will create two new pieces, one of which will be auctioned for charity. Back to the resort itself, the team behind Maradiva decided not to pack in as many villas as possible into the grounds, but focus on making each as luxurious as possible. Inspired by the colonial residences of the sugarcane plantation owners, the 65 (recently refurbished) villas range from a one-bedroom Garden Suite Pool Villa to a beachfront Presidential Suite Pool Villa which can accommodate up to four adults, two extra beds and a cot. All are huge by any standards and palatial by
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A wonderful retreat thanks to a spectacular beachfront setting, attention to detail and independent management which affords great flexibility.
those of Hong Kong. My favourite areas are the bathroom—complete with walk-in closet and outdoor shower—and the back garden, which houses a virtual outdoor living room and private plunge pool. Set back from a 750-metre long, private beach, you can catch glimpses of the ocean from the garden and it’s just a short barefoot walk to soft sand and gently foaming waves. The hotel is a popular spot for couples, and it’s no wonder—the sunset is beautiful, there’s a well-stocked bar, it never feels crowded and there is an award-winning spa on site. There are tennis courts, an excellent gym, and various watersports are available including
complimentary waterskiing and snorkelling trips. For those with children aged 4 to 12, fear not—the Mini Club is available and has plenty to keep kids busy, including organised activities, a playground area, shallow pool and sand pit. Babysitting services are also available at a nominal fee with 24-hours notice. As to the food, the three restaurants on site encompass international, Indian (my favourite) and Japanese teppanyaki and live music plays at the first two. Where possible, meals are cooked using some ingredients from the resort’s own organic farm, across the road. Cooking lessons and private candlelit dinners are available at an extra cost. Guests can also dine in the three restaurants of the sister resort, Sands Suites Resort and Spa.
Book your stay Location: West coast, Flic en Flac Nightly rate: One-bedroom Luxury Suite Pool Villas start at $7,750 per night on a half board basis (breakfast and dinner included). The resort has 26 villas available for sale, starting at US$650,000 each. Contact: call (+230) 403 15 00, email info@maradiva.com, maradiva.com
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travel
Four Seasons Resort at Anahita
lu x Mos ur t iou
s
Set on the shores of a spectacular natural lagoon, the Four Seasons is cleverly designed to allow different groups (families, couples, etc…) to enjoy the resort without getting under each others’ feet. Buggies are available on demand to whisk guests around the resort— individual bicycles are also free to use within the grounds. The villas are spacious and beautifully appointed. Each has its own plunge pool, private garden and outdoor shower. Many have views of the surrounding lagoon. Ideally positioned plants and walls provide privacy without looking out of place. The use of natural materials and open-air architecture creates a smooth flow between the indoors and outdoors. The 60 one-bedroom low-rise villas all sit on the resort’s private island Isle Aux Chats, giving it a quieter, more couple-friendly atmosphere. Larger groups staying together can rent one of the Residence Villas—these are owned by private individuals but managed by the hotel when not in use. The jewel in the crown is the Presidential Suite Sanctuary, an opulent three-bedroom villa, with panoramic lagoon views and its own private terrace with heated swimming pool and daybed pavilion— amongst other luxuries. A particular attraction of the resort is the complimentary and unlimited golf for all guests on a beautiful, ocean-front course designed by Ernie Els. If golf doesn’t take your fancy, there are also two tennis courts, a fitness centre with steam rooms and an aerobics studio, yoga pavilion and four communal pools—including a lap pool and kids’ pool. All non-motorized watersports are complimentary, from sailing, to windsurfing, to SUPing, and more. The shallow waters of the lagoon are ideal for trying out these activities—find the boathouse at Bambou beach. There’s also a complimentary boat shuttle from here to the nearby Ile aux Cerfs, which is not part of the resort but has more watersports and restaurants.
For something more sedate, head to the library and cultural centre where you can bone up on the island’s history, relax in the spa, laze on one of the three private beaches or browse the bridge of boutiques—don’t miss the four giant aldabra tortoises whose little patch of turf lies just in front of the bridge. There’s little in the immediate vicinity to warrant you venturing out of the resort, but off-site activities (racing through the sugarcane fields on the back of a quad bike, skydiving, deep sea fishing, you name it) can be arranged at an extra cost. If you’ve got little ones in tow, the supervised children’s program at the Hobbit Village Kids’ Club might come in handy. For children aged 10 and above, the Karokan centre houses a DJ booth, computers, table tennis and pool facilities.
Luxurious, professional and attentive service you would expect from any Four Seasons property but with a uniquely Mauritian feel thanks to its stunning location.
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The resort has three waterfront restaurants to choose from, encompassing mainly European but also international (largely Asian) cuisine. À la carte menus are complemented by a selection of theme nights—don’t miss the BBQ seafood buffet dinner at Bambou with local live musical entertainment. The standout offering is breakfast, served at fine-dining French bistro Beau Champ. It is mixture of à la carte and buffet, with freshly made juices, crepes and baked goods—try the Mauritian inspired options, including the creole omelette. Private cooking classes and romantic dinners on the lagoon, in the wine cellar or by candlelight on the beach are also available at extra cost.
Book your stay Location: East coast, Beau Champ. Airport transfers available in the Resort’s SUV, by boat or by helicopter. Nightly rate: One-bedroom Garden Villas from $5,870 per night in low season (select periods from April to September); rising to $16,000 in high (last week of December, first week of January), including breakfast and golf. Free Wi-Fi. Rates also available on half board basis. Sale prices for Residence Villas start at US$2million for a two-bedroom Garden Residence Villa. Contact: call (+230) 402 31 31, fourseasons.com/mauritius
island life
Shangri-La Le Touessrok Resort and Spa
B a c e s t fo t iv itie r s
Spanning 34 acres of beachfront, the Shangri-La Le Touessrok really packs it in. There are four restaurants to choose from, three beaches, three bars, a spa (with Mauritian inspired treatments, including a rather brisk sounding sugarcane baton massage) and leisure facilities—a fitness centre, two swimming pools, tennis courts and a kids’ club. That’s not to mention the resort’s private island Îlot Mangénie—with secluded forest, 3.5km of pristine beach, private cabanas and butlers—or the championship golf course on nearby Île aux Cerfs. Guests receive complimentary green fees and you don’t have to be a golfer to visit the Clubhouse, which overlooks the 18th hole. Waiters whiz along the sand on segways, delivering fruit skewers and cocktails to sunbathing guests. Meanwhile, more active souls attempt the array of complimentary nonmotorized watersports in the safety of the bay. Originally the secondary (island) residence of a Mauritian family, Le Touessrok began public life as a restaurant in the 1970s. Under the helm of the owners’ granddaughter Jacqueline Dalais, a few rooms were added (handy for diners who’d had a bit too much of the local rum and needed a place to stay overnight). After a few memorable parties, word spread and soon the operation expanded into a fully fledged hotel, taking over the neighbouring sugar plantation. Shangri-La took over in 2015 with big plans and an even bigger cash injection. Today, the resort has 200 sea-facing guestrooms and suites and three beach villas.
Mauritian heritage and spectacular surroundings combine with a multimillion dollar makeover and Shangri-La’s renowned Asian hospitality to create this popular and entertaining resort
Three distinct areas of accommodation cater to different groups. The Coral wing, comprises the resort’s starting room categories. The Hibiscus wing is designed especially for families and groups, with optional interconnecting rooms and easy access to the main beach and pool. Set on its own tranquil peninsula, the Frangipani wing is great for couples, with an adults-only heated pool, free minibar and cocoon-like bathtub in each room, and champagne on arrival. It is also home to Republik Beach Club & Grill, which offers a complimentary daily happy hour to all Frangipani guests. Republik spills out onto the beach with daybeds, sunken seating, fire pits and beanbags. There is regular live music, theme nights and performances by local and international DJs—don’t miss the fireworks display every Sunday from 10pm. For the most luxurious accommodation on offer, take a look at the beach villas. Separated from the rest of the accommodation (ahem, riffraff), they are designed to feel like homes rather than hotel rooms, benefitting from
24-hour butler service, a private chef, private infinity pool and private beach access. Villa guests can also move around the resort without the need to actually walk thanks to a dedicated electric car. In addition to guests, three giant tortoises call this place home, the oldest of whom is 108 years old. Take the kids to say hello on the way to the T-Club, where those aged 4 to 11 can take part in activities which encourage them to engage with the surrounding habitat. The Active T-Club hosts social activities for 12-17-yearolds, open until 10:30pm. Foodwise, all-day dining restaurant Le Bazar offers an astounding array of Asian and international cuisine in a buffet format. For something less crowded, try Japanese restaurant Kushi—which has yakiniku grills at each table—or Safran, which serves Mauritian inspired Indian cuisine. Republik offers Mediterranean cuisine and barbecue grills. After dinner, head to Sega Bar, which houses a collection of Mauritian rums and stages nightly cultural shows featuring local talents, seggae music and a live jazz and blues band.
Book your stay Location: East coast, Trou d’Eau Douce Bay Nightly rate: Deluxe Ocean View Rooms in the Coral Wing start at $2,780 for two persons, bed and breakfast (excl. 15% VAT) Contact: (+230) 402 7400, shangri-la.com/mauritius The resort is also available to book via Charlotte Travel, an award-winning familyrun boutique travel agency based in Hong Kong. Call 2110 6070 or visit charlottetravel.com.hk
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pets
Woof!
Ask a vet... Dr. Pauline Pets Central veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.
“How do I dog-proof my apartment?” Consider why you want to dog proof your apartment. New pups should be trained for some time so they can learn what is good behavior and what is not—they simply have no idea. Preventing the development of misbehavior is much easier than stopping established misdeeds! Training a dog to happily stay in a ‘cage’ or a ‘den’ when you are out is well worth the effort. It keeps them safe as well as out of trouble. Chewing, digging, scratching and inappropriate toileting are some of the major ‘crimes’ dogs commit especially when they are bored! Being starved of an enriched environment, lacking social play/mates or being endlessly left alone can lead to these unwanted behaviors.
“My dog keeps pulling on the lead when we go for walks. How do I stop this?” Pulling on the lead is a very unpleasant experience. Though easier to prevent by training when young, stopping pulling can still be achieved in an older dog. Your dog needs to learn that the reward of walking forward only happens with a loose lead. If your dog pulls on the lead you must stop walking and wait for them to come back. It will take time and patience; rewarding your dog with treats when they come back will hasten the training process. Head halters and harnesses can also be useful. These can be bought at most vet clinics or good pet stores but take care to fit them properly so not to cause damage.
“My dog breathes heavily for a long time after a run in the park, what should I do?” My recommendation is based on better being ‘safe than sorry’. Take your dog to your vet for a physical exam. This problem of ‘respiratory distress’ may be caused by something simple like your dog being unfit, or overweight, or the environment—it may be too warm for your dog to run around, or perhaps they are so excited by having playmates that play becomes excessive and they get ‘out of puff’. On the other hand, there could be some underlying pathology going on which only your vet can detect after a full physical check-up. Your vet may recommend further tests if he or she suspects an internal problem.
Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com 70 | SOUTHSIDE.HK
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Horoscopes
hong kong horoscopes
AQUARIUS Jan 21 – Feb 19
PISCES Feb 20 – Mar 20
ARIES Mar 21 – Apr 20
TAURUS Apr 21 – May 21
When you go for Peking duck in a restaurant, they’ll bring out the duck and carve off all that delicious crispy skin—but then the rest is spirited away, never to be seen again. That’s why I always make sure to ask to take rest of the duck home: there’s so much more goodness left over that people forget about. Make sure you’re always asking for the extra duck, Aquarius.
The outlet shops of Fa Yuen Street are a treasure trove. They’re stuffed with entertaining t-shirts, great fashion and fantastic accessories. The only problem? Those finds are buried among mountains of crap. Listen up, Pisces: in Fa Yuen Street, as in life, you can find the hidden gems—but you have to be prepared to go looking.
Shan shui painting is an ancient form of Chinese painting. Literally “mountainwater,” it uses brush and ink to depict flawless landscapes. These paintings are stunningly evocative works which often use no colour at all, but invoke atmospheric, beautiful scenes. You can be a shan shui painter of your own life, Aries. You don’t need a box full of paints to create beauty.
Have you been to Horizon Plaza recently? The tower block is perfect if you’re looking to furnish a new apartment. But with 25 floors of everything from sofas to sun loungers to BBQs, you can soon find yourself overwhelmed by choice… and arguing with your partner. Here’s a reminder to take it easy: nothing has to be completed in a single day. Rome wasn’t, and neither was Horizon Plaza.
LEO Jul 23 – Aug 22
VIRGO Aug 23 – Sep 23
LIBRA Sep 24 – Oct 23
SCORPIO Oct 24 – Nov 22
When tourists come to town, I take them to Man Mo Temple in Sheung Wan. Curls of incense rise to the rafters, with smoke pierced by rays of sunlight. It’s a place of worship, peace… and camera shutters, admittedly. But I always appreciate this serene spot in the middle of it all. What’s your place of peace, Leo? You don’t go there enough, do you?
Fir Street and Pine Street in Tai Kok Tsui hide a curious secret: In Chinese, Fir Street is actually labelled “Pine Street”—whereas Pine Street is called “Fir Street.” Confused, Virgo? Me too. Maybe a city planner got a little mixed up. But it’s an excellent reminder that names don’t have to define a place— or define you.
I love salted duck eggs. They are delicious steamed alongside rice, dropped into congee, fried with prawns— even as the interior of a mooncake. They’re made by packing eggs into salted charcoal and letting the flavours mix. These mounds of dark, gritty eggs may look alien, but just wash off the charcoal to reveal a beautiful salted egg. Look beyond appearance, and you’ll be rewarded.
You’re on a hike and feeling exhausted—then just over the next crest, a pavilion appears with a commanding view of the surrounding countryside. It’s the perfect place to take a break! Sometimes, it can feel like life’s a never-ending hike in sweltering weather: But don’t worry, Scorpio. There’s a pavilion just over the horizon, with a perfect view of what you’ve already accomplished.
As transmitted to Adam White, writer, editor and occasional soothsayer. 72 | SOUTHSIDE.HK
GEMINI May 22 – Jun 21
CANCER Jun 22 – Jul 22
Sometimes it feels like Hong Kong works in twoyear cycles. Every couple of years, a bunch of your friends leave the city: they’re going home, or moving somewhere else. It can be tough to deal with. Gemini, you should see this as an opportunity: both to meet new, interesting people—and to ask yourself if it’s time to move on yourself. It’s OK if the answer is no.
How do your egg tart tastes run? Traditional, or Portuguese? Shortcrust, or flaky? Me, I’m partial to a bit of flaky pastry. Yet some will scoff, telling you anything other than a traditional short crust tart is tantamount to treason. We all like our egg tarts differently, and that’s fine. Let others choose what they will, and there’s more of your pick left over for you.
SAGITTARIUS Nov 23 – Dec 21
CAPRICORN Dec 22 – Jan 20
What do you think of when I say “Discovery Bay”? Some kind of Stepford-Wifeswapping golf-cart-crammed dystopia? That’s why my friends think of, at least. But the truth is that it’s a lovely place, with cleaner air and nicer people than much of the rest of the city. If there are any swingers, they’ve yet to extend me an invitation. Remember that assumptions aren’t always reliable. The golf carts are still ridiculous, though.
Char siu is one of Hong Kong’s very best foods. Sweet, meaty and rich, it’s the perfect bite. But which kind of char siu consumer are you, Capricorn? Do you go for $600 Iberico pork shoulder char siu, or a $25 plate of char siu rice? I think that you should be both. Splurge now and then, but don’t be too proud to dig in with a plastic spoon, either.
SOUTHSIDE.HK | 73
Walking the talk
zim city
The latest green issues affecting our city.
The government is taking steps to make Hong Kong more walkable.
G
ood news. The government is to take the call for improved walkability seriously. The Transport Department has invited proposals for a Consultancy Study on Enhancing Walkability. Two related studies will be commissioned simultaneously: the Feasibility Study on Pedestrian Connectivity from Wan Chai to Sheung Wan in Hong Kong Island North; and the Review of Assessment Mechanism for Hillside Escalator Links and Elevator Systems. The opening of the invitation opening sets out the vision. “Reducing traffic congestion and promoting walking form a virtuous cycle: the more people walk, the less the traffic is congested. Furthermore, Hong Kong people are becoming more health conscious and aspire to a low carbon lifestyle. With an aging population, improved walking environments can better cater for the non-vehicular needs of the elderly to commute and integrate into the community. As a free mode of travel, walking and, more importantly, a good walking environment, are also the cornerstones of a socially equitable society.” 1. “Make it connected”, by enhancing our pedestrian networks 2. “Make it enjoyable”, by making walking a pleasant experience 3. “Make it safe”, by providing a safe and quality pedestrian environment 4. “Make it smart”, by providing user-friendly information on walking routes. Importantly, the government has recognized the need to update the Transport Planning and Design Manual and the Hong Kong Planning Standards and Guidelines. This is long overdue. We are dramatically lagging behind London and New York. The study recognizes that both cities have made enormous
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Pedestrians in Sheung Wan
improvements in favour of pedestrians over the last two decades. The invitation requires the consultants to formulate a new transport planning framework and to take reference from the Street Design Manual formulated under Mayor Bloomberg in New York City, and the UK Government’s Manual for Streets (1 and 2), which reflect the latest thinking in transport planning, street design and public spaces. The studies will take into account our ageing population and hilly terrain, looking into personal mobility devices as well as escalators and elevators. Most interesting will be the showcases. The consultants are asked to select two areas to demonstrate the new ideas. I hope that one of the areas will be Central–Admiralty, as it is one of the most complicated areas to work with. Get it right here, and Hong Kong can export its ideas not just to the rest of the city, but to other hyper-dense Asian cities too.
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
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Mumbo Jumbo
southside secrets... The inside story of Aberdeen’s famous floating restaurant
W
hat do Tom Cruise, Chow Yunfat and Queen Elizabeth II have in common? They have all visited Jumbo Kingdom, Aberdeen’s iconic floating restaurant. A popular spot on most tourist itineraries and reached only by boat, Jumbo Kingdom has recently had a multi-million-dollar makeover and is a feast for the eyes as well as the tummy. Its decor takes inspiration from Chinese imperial palaces, with visitors welcomed by golden dragons and staff in traditional costume. Tables are arranged over three floors, with the ground floor housing fine-dining dim sum fusion restaurant Dragon Court and a larger banquet restaurant on the top two floors. The roof – which once housed Top Deck, a popular alfresco brunch spot that closed in 2013 – has also been renovated and will soon be available for private functions. The food is mainly Cantonese with plenty Exploring of seafood, which seems appropriate given the fishing harbour location. A signature dish is the flamed drunken shrimp, with shrimps flambeed in Southside’s Chinese rose wine at the table. The brainchild of tycoon Stanley Ho, the hidden Jumbo had a baptism of fire. In October 1971, a few days before its grand opening, the finishing gems. 80 | SOUTHSIDE.HK
touches were being applied to what was to be Hong Kong’s largest floating restaurant when sparks from a welder landed on some highly flammable trimming and set it alight. Within minutes, the boat was aflame. With no firefighting equipment on board, the fire engulfed the Jumbo restaurant and 34 people died. The burned-out hull sat in Aberdeen Harbour for months until a four-year rescue operation began to completely reconstruct it in even grander style. The revamped Jumbo finally opened to the public in 1976. It may be the largest, but it’s not the only floating restaurant in Aberdeen. Moored right next to it is the venerable Tai Pak, which was built in 1957 and seats more than 400 guests. Its resplendent dining area featured in major films including 1955 romance Love Is a ManySplendored Thing and Bruce Lee’s acclaimed Enter the Dragon. (A third floating restaurant, The Sea Palace, appears in the 1974 James Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun, along with the wreck of the Queen Elizabeth in the harbour.) Open Mon-Sat 11am-11.30pm, Sun 9am-11.30pm, reached by free ferry from Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, 2553 9111, jumbokingdom.com
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