FAMILY | FOOD | EDUCATION | TRAVEL
January 2018
Eat yourself better Healthy spots to dine
A trekker's tale Journey to Everest Base Camp
The secret to
long life We interview a Sai Kung centenarian
It’s our
1is00th sue!
The really useful magazine January 2018
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47
40
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PEOPLE
ON PATROL 19 Police blotter Sai Kung Police updates
4 Snapped! Sai Kung social life THE PLANNER
LOCAL 20 Fast cars, furious residents Illegal racing on Sai Kung roads
8 Happening in January What’s on this month MUST HAVE THIS MONTH
VILLAGE FOCUS
12 Living room makeover Jazz up your living space for the new year NEWS 14 What’s going on? In your backyard GIVEAWAYS 16 Free stuff Fab things to win FIVE MINUTES WITH... 18 James Trower Founder of Destiny church Hong Kong
22 Tai Po Tsai A village with a “secret” beach COVER STORY 24 How to live forever Sai Kung elders share their secrets for a long and healthy life DINING 30 Nutritious and delicious Places to grab a healthy bite across. Plus Nibbles
EDUCATION 34 Broaden your mind Evening and part time courses for adults HEALTH & BEAUTY 34 Cutting hair from Botswana to Hong Kong Chatting with Jacquiline Hamilton. BIG DAY OUT 38 Deserted village walk Tara Smyth treks through villages forgotten in time TRAVEL 42 Everest Base Camp Shreena Patel heads to Nepal on a classic “bucket list” adventure
PETS 48 Ask Dr. Pauline Pet eccentricities and abnormalities explained. Plus Walkies. ZIM CITY 50 Paul Zimmerman on…. A small win for country park enclaves GARDENING 53 In the garden What to plant in January VINES IN SAI KUNG 56 New Year wishes Stephen Vines weighs in
f “WRINKLES SHOULD MERELY INDICATE WHERE THE SMILES HAVE BEEN” - MARK TWAIN
Find us on Facebook Sai Kung Magazine
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contributors
Gemma Shaw
Shreena Patel
Bronte Harris
... moved to Sai K u ng 6 months ago after living in Vietna m a nd Singapore. Originally from the UK, outside of writing Ge mma is also a fully qualified yoga teacher a nd studies lingerie design. She loves the latest health trend as well as the occasional glass of cha mpagne a nd cooking for friends at home.
…moved to Hong Kong for love, su nshine a nd a cha nge of career. Ja nuary is Shreena’s final month as Editor-in-Chief before she returns to the UK. But before she does, she squeezes in one last trip trekking in Nepal. Read all a bout it on page 46.
… is a Y ear 3 student at ESF Clearwater Bay School. She loves to read books, draw a nd sing while listening to music. She recently got a sewing machine a nd is learning how to make clothes.
Want to write for Sai Kung Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com
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people Snaps from Sai Kung
Sai Kung Art and About
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say cheese Expat Parent Charity Christmas Lunch
Share your event photos with us at photo@hongkongliving.com. Get snapping!
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JAN 7 The Clearwater Bay Chase 2018
A 10 kilometre charity run from Clearwater Bay Marina to Clearwater Bay Beach II and back. All enrolment fees will go to Breakthrough Ltd to support its Liberal Studies Project. 8:30am-12pm. The Clearwater Bay Golf and Country Club. Call 3464 0582 or visit cwbgolf.org/cwbchase or facebook.com/ClearwaterBayChase for more information.
UNTIL JAN 5
Mandarin Immersion Winter Camp The Mulberry House Winter Camp 2018 World Tour uses language to explore 10 cities across five continents. Through activities including music melodies, dramatic storytelling, crafts, science experiments, cooking and collaborative projects children will learn about flags, people, food, landmarks and culture around the world.
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From January 2 onwards, children will explore Japan and China. Maximum of eight children per class. Sessions between 9am and 5.30pm. $600-$1,066 depending on age of child. Two locations: Central: Studio 2403, Universal Trade Center, 17-19 Caine Road. South Side: Studio 801-802, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang. Reserve a place at mulberryhouseasia.com
AIA The Great European Carnival
UNT FEB 2IL 5
Merging elements of carnival and festival into a giant outdoor event. This year’s offering is filled with rides and roller coasters, game stands for all ages, plenty of food stalls, live music and performances, as well as the famous Gandey European Circus staged in a 1,200 seat big top circus tent. 11am-11pm. Central Harbourfront event space. Tickets $40-$130 online at tgec.asia or onsite.
happening in January Damien Hirst: Visual Candy and Natural History
Hong Kong International Poster Triennial 2017
UNTIL MAR 26
JAN 12-FEB 11
Paintings and sculptures by controversial, British artist, Damien Hirst will be on display at Gagosian Gallery. The exhibition showcases Hirst’s work from early-mid 1990’s which, amongst other things, includes a glass tank containing biological specimens. Gagosian Gallery, 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central. More information at gagosian.com
Held every three years, this event features international poster designs by showcasing and collecting outstanding works from all over the world. 10am-6pm weekdays, 10am-7pm weekends (closed Tuesdays). Free admission. Hong Kong Heritage Museum. More information at hk.heritage.museum
The five-week festival of world class theatre for young people returns to Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts. The event encourages and promotes a wide variety of performance styles from across the world. This year features nine productions including The Gruffalo, Ugly Duckling and Erth’s Dinosaur Zoo. Tickets available at hkticketing.com or call 3128 8288.
UNTIL MAR 5
Glitter, Glitz and Glamour
UNTIL JAN 13
Pixar 30 Years of Animation Photo courtesy of Hong Kong Heritage Museum
Pixar invites Hong Kong fans to take an exclusive peek behind the scenes of some of its most popular movies. The special exhibition with the theme “friendship and family” is the first collaboration between Hong Kong Heritage Museum and Pixar Woody and Buzz, Bob Pauley Toy Story 1995 since 2011. 10amMarker and pencil on paper 6pm weekdays, ©Disney/Pixar 10am-7pm weekends (closed Tuesdays). Tickets $20, more information at heritagemuseum.gov.hk
CATS the Musical
KidsFest 2018
UNTIL MAR 30
Known as the godfather of Hong Kong movie posters, local illustrator Yuen Tai-yung showcases 24 signature celebrity caricatures including those of Bruce Lee, Anita Mui and Leslie Cheung. Free to attend. Avenue of Stars, Waterfront Podium Garden, Tsim Sha Tsui
JAN 6-7
The Youth Chinese Opera Organised by the Sai Kung Kai Fung Committee, The Young Cantonese Academy Cantonese Opera Troupe will be performing traditional Cantonese opera. 5:30-9:30pm on January at Sai Kung Tin Hau Temple Square. 2-5pm on January 7 at Hang Hau Community Hall. Further information at districtcouncils.gov.hk
JAN FEB 161
Demand for the musical phenomenon has been so overwhelming that the producers have made a last minute extension of the season of the 2015 Olivier Award-nominated, Andrew Lloyd Weber production until February 11. Witness the Jellicle Cats’ annual gathering to decide which feline will ascend to the Heaviside Layer and a new life. Based on T.S. Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats, the show is alight with witty verse, stunning costumes and a fantastic score. Tickets range from $445 to $1,245; family packages and student discount also available. The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Lyric Theatre. Tickets and information at hongkongticketing.com
JAN 13
Imagine Dragons Evolve World Tour Live in Hong Kong
The Grammy-award winning American rockers are performing for one night only in Hong Kong to promote their third album, Evolve. 8pm. AsiaWorld-Expo. Ticket $388 to $888 from hongkongticketing.com
JAN 13
Ngong Ping Charity Walk 2018 Coming into it’s 12th year this fundraising event organised by Hong Kong Youth Hostels Association (HKYHA) raises money to support its causes which include providing affordable, quality hostel services and running youth programs. Walk starts at 9.30am. Start and finish point Citygate Outlet in Tung Chung. Registration for participation closed in December.
Alessandro Pinna John Brannoch
JAN 13
Yoga and Mindfulness for Children: A Workshop for Parents Children will learn valuable techniques for dealing with stress and other issues in this hands on workshop taught by Laura Mcegan, an experienced, registered Children’s Yoga Teacher. Techniques taught will be tailored around specific family needs. 9:30am-12:30pm. $650, Little Gems, Discovery Bay. To book contact littlegemsdb@gmail.com
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Early Years Foundation Stage Experience Day
JAN 20
Aimed at parents of children 5 years and below, schools including Nord Anglia International School, Mills International Preschool, Woodland Preschool and Shrewsbury School will run activities with the children and demonstrate strategies that parents can use at home. Hebe Haven Yacht Club will offer refreshments as well as free taster sailing sessions. 11am-3pm. Free admission, Hebe Haven Yacht Club, register online at eventbrite.hk
JAN 21
Standard Charter Hong Kong Marathon Starting on Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui and finishing in Victoria Park, this 42 kilometre international annual marathon attracts over 70,000 participants. Events include a half Marathon, a 10 kilometre race, a half marathon wheelchair race and a 3 kilometre wheelchair race. Races start at 6:10am, support the runners on either side of the harbour.
JAN 21
LOL with Kanan Gill Live in Hong Kong
The 9th Hong Kong International Chamber Music Festival A cultural landmark in Hong Kong, Cho-Liang Lin returns to direct the week-long music event featuring workshops, concerts and talks from 16 international and six local artists. Performances from Anna Polonsky, Cheung Man-yui Kitty and Jerusalem Quartet, the event opens with “An Evening in Paris” and concludes with “Russian Farewell” which features a trio of performances by three iconic Russian composers. Tickets from $100. Concerts held at Hong Kong City Hall and other locations across the city, visit pphk.org for specific concert locations and to buy tickets.
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JAN 28
Gammon China Coast Marathon and half Marathon 2018 Not for the faint hearted, this challenging marathon attracts some of Hong Kong’s hardiest runners. The route starts and ends at High Island Reservoir in Pak Tam Chung. $500 registration fee, deadline for registration is January 8, or earlier if quota is filled. For more information visit avohk.org or email chinacoast@avohk.org
JAN 31
The famous Indian stand-up comedian and YouTuber will perform live for the first time in Hong Kong. A software engineer by profession, Gill acquired YouTube fame with ‘Pretentious Movie Reviews’, a series in which he presented hilarious reviews of nostalgic Bollywood movies. 7:30pm. Hong Kong Jockey Club Amphitheatre. Tickets $288-$488 from hkticketing.com
The well sought-after Japanese rock band will be making their debut in Hong Kong at Asiaworld Expo Arena following an impressive show in Taipei in which tickets sold out in 15 minutes. 8pm. Asia World-Expo Arena. Tickets $580-$1,080 from hkticketing.com
JAN 25- 28
FEB 1
Disney on Ice
JAN 17-24
Round the Island Race. Watch in harbour racing from Victoria harbour. For other events throughout the Race Festival visit volvooceanracehk.com
The show returns to Hong Kong to celebrate Walt Disney’s 100th birthday with “100 years of magic”. The program includes 50 memorable Disney characters and 30 great sing-along songs, including ‘Let It Go’, ‘Hakuna Matata’ and ‘You’ve Got A Friend In Me’. Ticket prices range from $300 to $780. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. disneyonice.com
JAN 17-31
One OK Rock Ambition Asia Tour 2018 Live in Hong Kong
Your Mum presents:The xx Live in Hong Kong Following the release of their third LP ‘I See You’ earlier this year, The xx return to Hong Kong as part of their biggest Asian tour to date. In 2013 they played to a sell-out audience in Hong Kong. The xx are considered to be at the top of their game following the release of two further albums. 7:30-10pm. AsiaWorld-Expo. Tickets are all standing. $730 including booking fee from ticketflap.com
Volvo Ocean Race Hong Kong
FEB 3
Held every three years, The Volvo Ocean Race is considered one of the toughest sport competitions in the world covering roughly 40,000 nautical miles and taking around nine months to complete. For the first time in the race’s 43-year history, a stopover has been confirmed in Hong Kong. The key Hong Kong race will see the boats compete up and down Victoria Harbour on January 27 at 2pm. On January 28 at 11am the boats will take part in an exclusive to Hong Kong
This large-scale annual hike attracts over 3,000 participants. Organised with the aim to appreciate Hong Kong’s natural beauty, participants are encouraged to take part in green practices including ‘Take Your Litter Home’, waste separation and recycling. Funds raised will go to Green Power’s works in environmental education. Enrollment quota is already full, to join the waitlist email hike@greenpower.org.hk
Green Power Hike 2018
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BOOK NOW FEB 9-11
MAR 10
Longines Masters of Hong Kong
John Legend Darkness And Light Tour Live in Hong Kong
FEB 11
Run Date 5K Run Just in time for Valentine’s Day, this is the largest Speed Dating Running Event in Asia. This year the event is co-organised by popular dating app, “Coffee Meets Bagel”. Runners will be able to form meaningful connections at pre-event training sessions leading up to the event. Tickets from $290. Run starts at HK Science Park. More information and tickets at ticketflap.com/rundatefestival
Marcio Rodrigo Machado/ Power Sport Images
Now in its sixth edition, this international highlevel competition brings some of the best riders and horses in the world to Hong Kong. The competition visits Hong Kong, after Paris and before New York. Spectator tickets are $250 per session. AsiaWorld-Expo. Tickets available at venue.cityline.com
Multi-platinum singer-songwriter and 10x Grammy Award winner, John Legend returns to Hong Kong for this much-anticipated tour following the release of his latest smash hit album Darkness And Light. 8pm Tickets from $480. AsiaWorld-Expo. Tickets and more information at hkticketing.com.hk
MAY 2-6
Saint Petersburg Theatre Russian Ballet Swan Lake The St Petersburg Ballet Theatre Company visit Hong Kong for the first time with Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake, often considered the world’s most famous love story. St Petersburg Ballet Theatre Company are sure to put on an impressive show featuring lavish costumes and stunning sets. Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Lyric Theatre. Tickets start at $445 from hkticketing.com
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com.
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must have this month
Black Edition by Jessica Zoob - passion 4 cushion $1,100 from Lane Crawford Various outlets across Hong Kong including TIMES SQUARE, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, 2118 2288 lanecrawford.com.hk
Black Edition by Jessica Zoob - perfect day cushion $1,100 from Lane Crawford Various outlets across Hong Kong including TIMES SQUARE, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, 2118 2288 lanecrawford.com.hk
Living room makeover Jazz up your living space for the new year TENER sofa in purple $5,900 from Franc Franc Various outlets across Hong Kong including HomeSquare, 138 Shatin Rural Committee Road, Sha Tin, 2997 7282 francfranc.com.hk
Storage coffee table $10,080 from Ashley Furniture Homestore Fashion Walk, Causeway Bay, 2570 0307 ashleyhk.business.site
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Soft cushion ochre $1,860 from Tom Dixon 52 Hollywood Road, Central, 2882 2068 tomdixon.net
Den sofa $54,500 from Timothy Oulton 2/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St, Ap Lei Chau, 2789 8090 timothyoulton.com
changing rooms Nesting tables $5,279 from Ashley Furniture Homestore Fashion Walk, Causeway Bay, 2570 0307 ashleyhk.business.site
Kundalini kushi floor lamp $8,350 from Lane Crawford Various outlets across Hong Kong including TIMES SQUARE, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, 2118 2288 lanecrawford.com.hk
Melt pendant chrome $7,900 from Tom Dixon 52 Hollywood Road, Central, 2882 2068 tomdixon.net Geologic coffee table $83,300 from Timothy Oulton 2/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St, Ap Lei Chau, 2789 8090 timothyoulton.com TRUPE coffee table $3,600 from Franc Franc Various outlets across Hong Kong including HomeSquare, 138 Shatin Rural Committee Road, Sha Tin, 2997 7282 Francfranc.com.hk
Solo Ladder - 7 Rungs $1,150 from TREE 116 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 2802 tree.com.hk
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news
The Conservatory Bans Plastic Straws
Popular restaurant, The Conservatory in Sai Kung square has recently made the switch from plastic to paper straws. Owners Kim and Rob Cooper said the switch was influenced by friend and industry colleague, Garry Stokes of Sea Shepherd HK who leads a plastic free initiative as well as the couple’s 9 year old son Jack. “After watching The Plastic Whale at Nord Anglia International School he asked why we used single-use plastics straws in our (his) restaurants”. Rob adds “as ex-scuba divers, we should have known better, it took a young lad to open our eyes to the scale of this global problem we were contributing too”. To celebrate the move, Jack has invented the ‘BanStraws’ milkshake made with bananas and strawberries. The new addition will go on the Kid’s menu
A male dolphin corpse was found stranded on the shore of Wang Chau island on December 10. The body was severely putrefied upon discovery. After an initial investigation carried out by the Ocean Park Conservation Foundation, the dolphin was confirmed to be a 1.6 metreslong male finless porpoise. A dolphin species categorised as ‘vulnerable’ by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. The body of the dolphin was later transported back to Ocean Park for further examination in order to determine its cause of death. According to the foundation’s investigation on cetacean stranding cases in Hong Kong, there are about 200 finless porpoises in Hong Kong and adjacent waters. Around 16 of the species were found stranded in 2017. For more information, visit opcf.org.hk
French International School Unveils New TKO Campus at The Conservatory. Sai Kung resident, Lisa Odell who founded Plastic Free HK last year adds “every single restaurant that joins in this movement is a massive success”. She hopes to persuade every restaurant in Sai Kung to switch over to paper straws within the next year.
Expat Parent Charity Christmas Lunch We would like to extend our most heartfelt thank you to our guests, sponsors, and everyone else who supported Expat Parent Magazine’s first charity lunch on November 30. The event was a resounding success, with a total of 77 people attending the lunch. From the raffle sales, auctions, and your generous donations, we generated over $18,000 for our charity of choice, Box of Hope. A special mention goes out to Mindy and Jude from Events For Life who spectacularly put this lunch together. Thank you also to Nicholas, Nikki, and the team at Mr Wolf who carried the lunch through without a hitch. We’d love to see the photos you took, so
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Dead dolphin found stranded in Hong Kong Global Geopark
please share them with us on social media using the hashtag #epminglejingle. Thank you once again for your incredible support and generosity, and see you again at our next event.
On December 8, the French International School of Hong Kong (FIS) unveiled a large reproduction of celebrated Hong Kong artist Almond Chu’s Mother of Water at its new Tseung Kwan O campus. The artwork will eventually be recycled into limited edition eco-chic bags in line with the strong emphasis the school places on sustainability. At the unveiling, Mr Berti, Consul General of France in Hong Kong and Macau said that “FIS set out to construct a dream school, green, spacious and innovative”. FIS currently has four other campuses across Hong Kong, the TKO ecocampus will begin accepting students from September 2018.
in your backyard
Save Sai Kung Stray Friends
Italiano’s closes A long time Sai Kung staple, Italiano’s Restaurant & Bar closed on December 31 after 17 years and one month of operation. This decision came from the rental contract expiring
and the owner Dev Kumar retiring. When asked how he felt about the closure, Dev Kumar said, “I’ve had a good time”. We wish you all the best and a happy retirement.
Sai Kung Stray Friends (SKSF) are facing new financial difficulties with further increases to their rent. Run by local resident Narelle Pamuk, SKSF have 110 dogs in their kennels awaiting adoption or fostering. “We work hard to raise money by attending fairs, market days, visiting schools, holding events but our rental is our hardest obstacle.” said Pamuk. For Christmas, the team sold stockings with pictures of the dogs for decorations in hope that it will lead the dog to a home. “It takes about $160,000 to run the kennel which provides the dogs shelter, food and medical care. We just need 55 people to commit $1,000 per month for 12 months. It is tax deductible and can ensure our shelters survival.” said Pamuk. For details on how you can donate visit saikungstrayfriends.net/donations/ or for more information, call 9199 2340 or email at saikungstrayfriendshk@gmail.com
Mirth Moves
Momentai’s local charitable efforts The bar-restaurant hosted an Animal Benefit Concert which took place on December 13. Roughly 150 people attended throughout the night and they were able to raise over $20,000 through auctions, sales of raffle tickets and the restaurant’s proceeds of that night. Momentai’s owner mentioned plans to have another fullday animal charity event sometime between
January and February. Momentai are also helping local independent businesses and charities by providing them a free space in their restaurant during their weekend markets. Sai Kung Waterfront, Wai Man Road, Sai Kung, 2792 8991. facebook.com/momentaila
Mirth Sai Kung, the delightful store of collective home items has sadly closed on December 31 after three years of operation, citing rent issue as the major reason. For Mirth fans, you can still get your favorite product online or visit their flagship store located in Wong Chuk Hang. For more information contact info@mirthhome.com or visit mirthhome.com
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giveaways
win at hongkongliving.com
TakeOut Comedy Time to laugh out loud! TakeOut Comedy, a long-time Soho establishment, is the first full-time comedy club in Asia. The club has shows lined up every week featuring international acts and local talents. They are also the force behind the annual Hong Kong International Comedy Festival, which will be returning for the 12th time in 2018. Visit takeoutcomedy.com for more. We’re giving away a pair of TakeOut Comedy gift certificates, worth $1,200 in total.
Aphrodite Freelance Hair and Makeup Founded by Jacquiline Hamilton, full-time mom and seasoned hairdresser, Aphrodite Freelance Hair and Makeup provides on-demand makeup and hair services in the comfort of your own home or office. Whether you’re looking to transform your style with a new haircut or getting your glam on for a big party - Jacquiline has got you covered. For more information, visit facebook.com/aphroditehairandmakeup We have a $1,200 gift voucher to give away. The voucher can be redeemed at the Peninsula Salon in Sai Kung and can be used for a haircut, blowdry, 1/2 head highlights or root touch-up.
$1,500 city’super voucher
Xtreme Lashes HK
Rubison Marketing Solutions is an independent agency that aims to provide integrated marketing solutions to a variety of clients. From branding, media strategies and events to public relations, digital marketing and more, Rubison is the go-to company to help you reach your target audience. Courtesy of Rubison, we have one city’super voucher to giveaway, valued at $1,500. The voucher is redeemable at any city’super, LOG-ON and cookedDeli by city’super location.
As the saying goes, eyes are the window to the soul. So, why not keep your peepers picture perfect, with a treatment that frames them beautifully? Xtreme Lashes have mastered the art of eyelash extensions. Offering a range of looks, from va-va-voom to something more chic and subtle, the lashes are safe, hygienic and comfortable to wear—and applied individually by certified stylists. Lasting between six to eight weeks, they’re sure to be your new favourite accessory. We are giving away four eyelash extension passes, valued at $2,388.
Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: saikung.com/subscribe
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five minutes with
James Trower Publisher
Tom Hilditch tom@hongkongliving.com
Editorial
Contributing Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongliving.com Managing Editor Eric Ho eric@hongkongliving.com Editorial Assistant Catharina Cheung catharina@hongkongliving.com Media Trainee Gemma Shaw gemma@hongkongliving.com
Design
Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongliving.com
Digital
Digital Co-ordinator Cora Chan cora@hongkongliving.com
Thanks to
Dr. Pauline Taylor Michael Lai Paul Zimmerman Rachel Harina Stephen Vines Tara Smyth Yasmin Hingun
Published by
Hong Kong Living Ltd. Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Founder of Destiny Church Hong Kong In 2009, my wife Jess and I felt God leading us to launch Destiny Church in Hong Kong. We shared this with our home church in Edinburgh who supported the move. We visited Hong Kong in 2011 on our honeymoon, and by chance happened to come to Sai Kung. After moving here in 2013 we felt that this was the right place to start the church. I grew up in a small village in Suffolk, UK. I became a Christian when I was around the age of 8 to 9, and it was an ongoing journey of discovery through much of my childhood. I got more involved with the church when I was 16. I eventually connected with Destiny when I moved to Edinburgh for University. After graduating with an MA in Arabic, I studied at Destiny College for a Certificate in Christian Leadership. When I was younger the thought of becoming a pastor hadn’t crossed my mind. The prospect of an unglamorous, not particularly well paid job wasn’t too alluring. However, at Destiny I really saw the importance of the local church for transforming lives and benefiting communities, and something about that captured my heart and I knew that is where I wanted to be. As a pastor I deal with a huge variety of issues. Currently, we focus a lot on relationships, spiritual growth and general life issues.
HONG KONG hongkongliving.com
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When I first arrived in Hong Kong I worked in sales and marketing for a Chinese lighting company. This was because I needed to support myself
and my family. In the evenings and weekends I worked on establishing the church. The church is funded in a number of ways. Other than the initial gift we received before we left our Edinburgh church, there is no regular financial support from Destiny ministries, however, there is a lot of non-financial support. Over the past four years, ourselves and others who are involved here have given to the church. Giving from the church itself is the main source of funding. The Bible says it is the word of God and so its truths cannot be updated and changed to fit in with shifting cultural beliefs. We should contextualise it so that people in various cultures understand the truths. It can be easy to misinterpret the Bible if it is not read in the context in which it is intended. I believe it is the greatest, most exciting and most relevant message in the world and I hope to help people better understand that incredible message.
What happens when we die depends on what happens in our lives. The Bible shows us that going to heaven is not based on our good works, rather it is based on God’s grace through Jesus’ sacrificial death and resurrection. If you believe that Jesus died to bring you back into relationship with God, then your last breath on this earth will be your first breath with Him in eternity. That is what we call heaven. Religion is a set of rules that we need to do in order to be good enough to get back to God. I think genuine faith is not pursued by some people because they believe little cultural truisms that point a finger of blame, for example religion is often cited as the cause for war. However, most wars are not religiously motivated, even in wars that have a distinct religious veneer, religion itself is a mask for the real reasons behind war - reasons such as power, control, and money. Ultimately we want to benefit the Sai Kung community, and see people who are far from God discover Him. We will be running an Alpha course starting January 17th at the Hive. Alpha is a great way to begin asking the big questions about life and exploring the Christian faith. Eventually we hope to establish other churches across Asia as well as other campuses around Hong Kong. Destiny Hong Kong currently has a congregation of around 20 people. We meet every Sunday at 10:30 am in different locations around Sai Kung. For more details destinychurch.hk
on patrol
Police blotter Senior Inspector Michael Lai reports on the recent cases in Sai Kung - On December 2, a school bus parked at the
outdoor car park in Ho Chung caught on fire. After the fire was safely put out, it was discovered to have happened due to a short circuit. Back in October last year, another school bus from the same company caught fire at the same location. There were no suspicions and signs of foul play for both incidents.
- A thief around the age of 50-60 stole 12 pairs of shoes from three Pak Kong village houses. The total loss amounted to $20,100.
- A middle-aged female from Mainland China
was caught in an illegal immigrant case on December 11. She was found working at a restaurant in town centre after she tricked the employer with a forged ID card.
- A case of theft occurred at Pak Kong during the early hours of the day. The window of a large goods vehicle was smashed and a rucksack and some coins were stolen.
- Last month there were a total of nine hiking
related Search and Rescue cases reported.
- A male aged 19 commited suicide by jumping from the roof of Centro along Chui Tong Road at the end of November. Later investigations revealed that he may have taken some dangerous drugs before the incident and his family were aware of his suicidal tendencies.
- Special Police deployment will be arranged
between mid-December to mid-February. The operation will enhance police presence and patrol in some strategic locations to combat burglaries and other crimes.
- Sai Kung Cattle’s Angel and Sai Kung Buffalo
Watch held a sharing session with officers from Sai Kung, Ma On Shan and officers from multiple traffic regions. This was to enhance the knowledge on how to handle feral cattle.
- On December 11, one cow was found at Wan
Tsai campsite with two hooks from a BBQ fork stuck near his eye. SPCA and AFCD attended the scene to provide medical treatment. After treatment, the cow was released back to his herd. The case has been passed over to Crime of Wong Tai Sin.
For more information, contact Sai Kung Police Station, 1 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 3661 1630
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local
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Printer
Apex Print Limited 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong
Police scene after crash on Tai Mong Tsai
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Fast cars, furious residents
Illegal races on the streets of Sai Kung. Gemma Shaw reports
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t’s 3am and residents are abruptly woken by the revving of car engines. For those living close to the roads surrounding Sai Kung Country Park this is a common occurrence that has been happening for years. However, in recent months it would appear that the frequency of illegal racing on public roads has significantly increased in the area. Catherine, a local resident living on Yan Yee Road, said that the problem has been “happening for years” but that, of late, there “seems to be increased amount of racers”. Another resident, Caroline who lives in Tso Wo Hang village which is located directly on Tai Mong Tsai Road agrees. “I used to be aware of the races happening on a Friday or Saturday night, but recently they have become more frequent and less predictable,
sometimes I hear them in the early hours of the morning and now it can be any day of the week - even a Monday or Tuesday”. Street car racing on public roads is a phenomenon that has been happening across the globe for decades and Hong Kong, with its streets full of expensive cars is no exception. Racing on any road, unless as part of an organised, consented event is illegal and liable to a fine of $10,000 and 12 months imprisonment according to the Hong Kong government Road Traffic Ordinance Legislation . This doesn’t seem to deter the racers and there are hotspots for meet ups across Kowloon and the New Territories. The area around Sai Kung country park and Clearwater Bay seem particularly popular. “Perhaps in part because of the complexity of the roads,
with their tight bends and dips, which prove a more challenging and exciting drive for the racers” suggests Caroline. She says that the impact on residents is two fold - “noise pollution is a big factor, but ultimately the biggest issue is the potential danger that the racers cause to other drivers and pedestrians out and about after dark”. Tso Wo Hang village lies on a bend on Tsai Mong Tsai Road, Caroline tells me that the racers come past the village very fast. “I worry when my husband or son come home late at night in case they should happen to be in the wrong place at the wrong time”. She recalls one Sunday morning when she was “woken with a loud bang as a car driving too fast flew across the pavement and crashed into the village barrier, the other
illegal racing and the racers have moved on. Catherine has witnessed the racing on a number of occasions. “I’ve seen them many times and had three racers behind me before, not supercars but the souped-up Honda gang. On one occasion at about 1am they were trying to overtake me on the bend at 198 Tai Mong Tsai, I called the police when I got home and they said they’d go out but as soon as it goes over the radio the racers disappear”.
Illegal racing along Tai Mong Tsai Road
Not supercars but the souped-up Honda gang.
Sunday morning crash
racers didn’t stop” - only the driver was injured on this occasion. Catherine adds that “there are often large cows and bulls on the road, if one of the cars swerves or hits one of the animals there will be carnage”. Residents stress that they have reported incidents to the police on many occasions but by the time the police arrive it is usually too late
Senior Inspector, Michael Lai of Sai Kung Police Force commented that in late November the force have jointly mounted an operation with Traffic Kowloon East but that “so far no road racing is noted but some speeding cases were detected”. The Senior Inspector said that he was aware of “reports of noise complaints and police also noticed some complaints on the Internet”.
Caroline says that residents in her village are keen for two simple solutions - “Firstly, we would like to see speed bumps on Tai Mong Tsai Road at the approach to Tso Wo Hang village, we also feel that it would make sense for the police to the install permanent speed cameras in strategic places along Tai Mong Tsai Road”. Catherine fears that a solution will come too late adding, “It will take a fatal collision on the road before anything will be done about the racers”. She suggests that residents report incidents of racing to the police in the hope that more action will be taken. Sai Kung police can be contacted on 3661 1630. The local police station is located at 1 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung.
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village focus
Tai Po Tsai
Entrance to Tai Po Tsai Village
Gemma Shaw visits the village with a "secret" beach
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Once home to Erskine Barracks, several army units were stationed in the area of Tai Po Tsai during the time that the British ruled. The area around Tai Po Tsai has been the topic of discussion recently as it becomes the picturesque location for Mount Pavilia - a luxury development of 680 apartments. Tai Po Tsai is the beginning of hiking trails towards Tseung Kwan O and closeby there is a beach called Pak Shui Wun with soft sand and clear water. Residents talk of a semi-secret “White Water Bowl Waterfall” which is located in the valley on route to Pak Shui Wun. To access the beach, at the roundabout take the turning for University Road. After a few minutes there is a path on the left, just before the next roundabout. Follow the path and, about a third of the way, look out for White Water Bowl
Photo by FolloMe 隨我行 (follo3me.com)
ai Po Tsai is a village of contrasts, its original inhabitants hail from a Cantonese area of Guangdong with the surname ‘Wan’. More recently, the village has become an ideal location for students of the nearby Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST). Locals and students share their village in equal measures, on sunny days the relaxed and welcoming vibe in the old town is enticing and feels reminiscent of a small mountain village somewhere in the European Alps. On my visit, locals dried chillies on the pavement while students next door decorated their porches with tinsel and lights. Located on Clear Water Bay Road - just before the intersection with Hiram’s Highway - Tai Po Tsai is served by minibuses 101M, 11, 1A, 12 to Po Lam and bus 91M.
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Mount Pavilla
Pak Shui Wun beach
Waterfall to the left. Continue on the path and eventually you will be rewarded with beautiful views and soft sand as you reach Pak Shui Wun beach. Tai Po Tsai local resident and General Manager of the recently-opened St Bart’s restaurant at Mount Pavilia, Julien Lasseau, is one of few expat residents living in the village. Arriving just four months ago, he credited Tai Po Tsai as an “incredibly peaceful and friendly community”. He favours the close proximity of the university because of the facilities it offers - including a Fusion supermarket and many food outlets. Due to its location directly on the main road into Sai Kung, it is possible to pass through Tai Po Tsai everyday and never stop there, but it’s worth exploring. A rich history, the beach, a hidden waterfall and coffee (or glass of wine) at newly opened St Bart’s makes for an afternoon well spent. Want to be village correspondent? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
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cover story
How to live forever
Eric Ho speaks to Sai Kung seniors about living a long and healthy life
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sage talk
Leung Kam-sze What’s your morning routine?
What do you do in your free time?
Do you excercise now?
I wake up, use the toilet, brush my teeth and have a warm cup of water. The warm temperature of the water is important as drinking cold water first thing after waking up is bad for my stomach.
We visit the elderly centre in Sai Kung every day. Besides that I like to buy the lottery.
Every morning I do an excercise routine consisting of stretches and light weight lifting using water bottles.
Did you drink much alcohol or smoke when you were younger?
What food do you avoid?
No, I’ve never smoked and I’ve only had a sip of alcohol.
We try not to eat fried food when dining out. The oil used tends to become dirty after a few times of frying.
Do you eat much sweets and sugary food?
How many times do you dine out in a week?
We hardly ever ate sweet things like chocolate and candy. It was just too expensive for us back then.
We don’t. Unless it’s a family’s birthday.
What do you think is the most important factor which affects your health? Diet is really important to maintaining your healthy as you grow old. Everything in moderation is best - have a little bit of fruit, a little bit of fish, some vegetables and occasionally some meat. Also, don’t be a picky eater.
Has living in Sai Kung improved your health? Possibly as the air is much cleaner here. Although it’s nowhere near as good as it used to be.
Did you grow up doing exercise?
You have a full set of hair, do you take any special care of your hair? When we were younger we didn’t use shampoo. Instead we would pick leaves off of wild trees and rub them in water to make our own homemade shampoo.
Have you lived a happy life so far? Despite living a tough life and experiencing World War II when I was only a child, it was a relatively stress-free life. I believe I lived a happy life. I’m happiest when family come over to visit and have a meal together.
Leung on her trip to UK in 2000
I swam a lot when I was younger but this was due to working in the fishing industry. I would also pick wild fruits and vegetables from the hillsides which was also tiring work.
What time do you go to sleep and wake up? I don’t have a set time to sleep, I sleep when I’m sleepy. In the morning I wake up around 6am but now that it’s getting colder I stay in bed for an extra hour or two.
What do you eat for breakfast? Oats.
Do you take Western or Chinese medicine? I take both Western and Chinese medicine. I also have acupuncture done when I have ear pain, I’ve found it to be the most effective remedy for this particular problem.
Leung is happiest when family come to visit
82 year old s
With the family SAIKUNG.COM | 25
cover story
Sau Kung Lau What do you do in your free time? I’ve been helping out at the elderly home for over 10 years now. I also dance and sing during my free time which makes me happy. Keeping myself busy and happy is what helps me maintain my health.
What time do you wake up and go to sleep? I usually get around 3 hours of sleep a day. I find it difficult to sleep so I get in bed around midnight and wake up around 3-4am.
Do you exercise? Yes, every morning I come down to the Sai Kung elderly centre where they teach us many exercise routines. They’ve even recently started an exercise programme which is good for your brain.
80 years old
cup of milk tea or coffee and eat a biscuit for breakfast - I don’t like to be too full in the morning. I finish off my morning by going to the elderly centre and doing some exercises.
Do you think you have lived a happy life? I’ve lived a very simple life. I worked on a farm and as long as I had enough money to have some food and a roof over my head I was happy. So yes, I would say I lived and still live a happy life.
Do you take Western or Chinese medicine? I take Western medicine more than Chinese medicine now. If you do choose to take Chinese medicine, it’s better if you go to someone you know and trust.
Do you have any tips for younger generations to stay healthy?
Do you think living in Sai Kung has improved your health?
Stay happy. Go out and meet some friends and laugh about some jokes. Too many people stress over money now, you can never earn “enough”.
For sure, it’s because we’re close to the sea. We can walk along the waterfront and take in some fresh air. But don’t go where there are too many sampans and boats, they produce a lot of pollution.
Do you have a morning routine? First thing I do when I wake up is have a warm cup of water before washing my hands and face. Next I make myself a
Did you smoke or drink alcohol? No.
Yau Tai Sing What time do you wake up and go to sleep? I try to get in bed around 1am but I find it difficult to sleep at night so I get very little sleep. I tend to feel sleepy during the day and fall asleep whenever I get the chance to sit down.
Why do you think Hong Kong people have the longest life expectancy? In other countries like England, people eat until they’re full and just sit around. We [in Hong Kong] have many activities throughout the day, such as doing exercises by the waterfront and grocery shopping in the market.
Do you have a morning routine? After waking up and getting ready, I have a warm cup of water and do some light stretches to start the day. Next I head over to the
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waterfront to do some exercises with a group of friends. After that I have dim sum for breakfast.
Do you think you lived a hard life? I had a very difficult life growing up. We worked on a farm in Sai Kung and it was a lot of manual labour.
Do you play Mahjong? Yes I do but we don’t play with much money.
Did you smoke or drink alcohol? No I’ve never smoked or drank alcohol. My parents didn’t so why would I?
80 years old
sage talk
Ho Sing-tai
exercising. I also don’t remember a day when I haven’t eaten fish.
Do you take Western or Chinese medicine? I typically take Western medicine but when I get the flu I head down to the Chinese medicine shop and pick out some Climbing Groundsel Herb. I boil this medicinal herb and use the water to bathe myself before I go to bed.
Did you drink alcohol or smoke? I used to enjoy drinking a lot of beer. But as I got older, I started feeling drunk from just a few sips so I stopped. I also smoked 10 to 20 cigarettes a day for over 20 years. I gave up at 50 years old because my wife couldn’t handle the smell anymore.
What do you think is the most important factor which affects your health? I think people today worry too much. I lived a very tough life growing up but I never felt too stressed - as long as I had food on the table I was happy. Diet is also important, people should eat plenty of fish.
81 years old
Are you religious? We don’t believe in any one religion but we would pray to Tin Hau. There was this one time I fell very ill. Back then my wife and I prayed to Tin Hau for me to get better and that if I did we would give up eating beef. I did and we gave up beef.
An old photo of Ho and his family Did you play any sports or do any exercise when you were younger? I was a boat dweller and spent most of my time on the boat. We were very poor and worked all day long so we never had time to play sports. My exercise came from pulling the fishnets and swimming in the sea.
Do you do exercise now that you’re older? I have a morning routine of stretches and exercises. I do each move about 20 times.
What does your typical meal look like? Every meal, besides breakfast, has fish and vegetables. Only on very rare occasions do we substitute fish for pork or chicken.
How many meals do you have in a day? Three.
What do you do with your free time? Watch TV, play Mahjong on my phone and listen to Chinese opera on YouTube.
Is there anything you don’t eat? Do you eat much fruit?
I haven’t eaten beef for over 50 years.
I eat it in moderation but I like oranges, grapes, dragon fruit, bananas and apples. Always remember to wash your apples.
What are some things you do everyday? I have a warm glass of water when I wake up. I also make sure I have one glass of milk after
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cover story
Lai Cheung Mui
Four generations of the Lai family
How long have you lived in Sai Kung?
What is your morning routine?
Many, many years. I grew up as a boat dweller in Sai Kung and used to catch fish with nets. We eventually moved away but I came back 30 years ago and have been here since.
I slowly walk to the toilet and brush my teeth.
Do you think living in Sai Kung has improved your health? When we moved away out of Sai Kung I never felt as happy or comfortable. It was only when I finally moved back that I felt at home again.
Do you feel happy now?
103 years old
Yes I am very happy now. I am happiest when people come to visit and give me massages. Massages help me sleep better at night.
What time do you wake up and go to sleep? I wake up very early, usually between 2-3am. I don’t have a set time for sleeping. I go to bed when I start feeling tired.
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What do you eat for breakfast? What I eat depends on what my son feels like making me for breakfast. But typical foods include sui mai, sandwiches and noodles. Sometimes we go out to have dim sum and I like to order chicken feet and plain rice rolls.
What does your diet look like? I have three meals a day and I eat anything I’m given, there’s nothing I don’t eat. A little bit of everything is good for you. But my favourite food is chicken wings cooked using vinegar and sugar. Many of my other favourite foods are sour too. I also like to mix red tea or vinegar soaked plums into my bowl of rice.
What do you like to drink? Any Chinese tea is good. I don’t drink much water but I drink a lot of tea. I also like sweet beancurd soup. I’m not a fan of fizzy drinks though.
sage talk
Tea time with Vivian Mak, Founder of MingCha Introducing six different types of Chinese tea and their health benefits.
Green tea Considered cooling in traditional Chinese medicine. Green tea is the least oxidized of the teas, giving it the highest concentrations of a polyphenol called EGCG - a powerful antioxidant.
White tea Used in China to treat diseases that inflame the skin, like Chicken Pox and Measles.
Yellow tea Smilar to those of green tea. Easier on the stomach.
Lai aged 90 at her grandson’s graduation
Did you drink alcohol and smoke? I loved drinking port wine. Now I don’t drink anymore. I started smoking when I was in my teens. I really liked smoking but I eventually gave it up because it was expensive and my mother-in-law didn’t like it.
If you live long, you live long.
Do you take Western or Chinese medicine? I used to boil and prepare Chinese medicine but now that I can’t move around as well I take Western medicine as it is much more convenient.
Do you like playing Mahjong? Yes I like playing Mahjong but I always lose.
Are you religious? I am Christian.
What do you do in your free time? I listen to Chinese opera on the radio but it needs to be really loud because my hearing isn’t as good as it once was.
Do you do any exercises? I regularly move and shake my hands and feet on the bed. I also walk myself back and forth from the toilet as well.
Oolong tea Thought to assist weight-loss in traditional Chinese medicine by boosting metabolism and aiding digestion.
Black tea According to traditional Chinese medicine, black tea is good for enhancing blood circulation and digestion. Also thought to reduce fatigue and relieve stress.
Pu erh tea Thought to lower cholesterol levels. Pu’er is good with or after meals, as it is warming, helps digestion and shouldn’t keep you up at night.
Do you have any health tips you want to share? There’s no secret. If you live long, you live long.
age 60
age 70
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dining
Nutritious and delicious Eric Ho and Angel Law find the best places to grab a healthy bite
Dine in Mana! With a number of locations around Central, MANA! is popular with health-conscious office workers. The MANA! Fast Slow Food location on Wellington Street is a great for nourishing and filling salads and smoothies. For something more substantial, choose one of the baked and rolled signature flatbreads seasoned using a mixture of Lebanese herbs. Putting its money where its mouth is, the restaurant also operates under a zero-food-waste and free water mentality. All packaging used is either compostable or biodegradable. For those that want to dine in, there is limited but adequate seating with the back terrace being particularly lovely on a sunny day. Don’t forget to check out their raw food-only outlet and their cafe. A number of locations including 92 Wellington St, Central, 2851 1611, mana.hk
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Grassroots Pantry Founded back in 2012, owner and chef Peggy Chan has built a strong following of supporters with her plant-based cuisine using sustainable, organic and locally-sourced ingredients. Great options from the menu include raw spicy “tuna” hand roll made from
sprouted seed ($115) and kelp noodle pancit bihon ($145). Finish up your meal with a serving of mango chia seed pudding ($80) before washing it all down with one of their certified organic grassroots cocktails. 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, 2873 3353, grassrootspantry.com
clean eating HAWKR
Supafood
HAWKR is the newest healthy takeaway spot to hit the city. While its name is inspired by Southeast Asia-style food courts (known as hawker centres), its offerings are much healthier. HAWKR’s MO is fresh and healthy grab and go street food style dishes with an Asian twist. For wraps, there are meatball and salmon fish cake options; both are generously stuffed with fresh and pickled vegetables. Heartier options include a healthier twist on Thai green chicken curry and Javanese beef rendang. Those looking for just a snack may want to try one of the yogurt pots, kueh, or fresh baked goods. 36 Hoi Kwong St, Quarry Bay, 9222 8583, info@hawkrhk.com
For a balanced meal at a healthy price, Supafood has you covered. This superherothemed takeaway spot offers savoury items like salads, wraps, coconut brown rice boxes, and oolong tea soba noodle boxes. Meat and fish options are available, such as halibut with honey Sriracha and a grass fed beef bolognese. However, the vegetarian options like baked tofu with sweet miso and baked eggplant with balsamic are just as satisfying. Supafood also has you covered when the mid-afternoon munchies hit. For slow burning fuel, try the coconut chia pudding, carrot cake supaball or one of the smoothies. 1 Jervois St, Sheung Wan, 2812 6088, supafood.co
nood In a hurry but want to keep it healthy? Nood Food is a great option with its grab-and-go offering of salads, soups, wraps, sandwiches, cold-pressed juices and superfood smoothies. Most of their stores are located within or close to Pure Fitness or Yoga studios. 4/F Lincoln House, 979 King’s Road, Quarry Bay. 8129 1188, allnood.com
Get juiced Genie Juicery Juice cleanses have taken Hong Kong and the world by storm. Two ambitious and stunning ladies from down-under rode the wave and opened Genie Juicery back in 2011. Having both worked in fashion, certified health coach Melanie Barnish and model Cara McIlroy understand how hectic city lifestyles can take a toll on our health. The buzzword ‘juicing’ may strike a chord with those who know a thing or two about cleansing, but what exactly is cold pressed juice? “We use a hydraulic press to fully extract the freshest juice by crushing the fruits and vegetables. Because there’s no heat created by the machine, it kills off the unwanted bacteria and chemicals and keeps the nutrients intact”, said Mcllroy. Genie Juicery stocks a selection of juices, 100 per cent of which is organic. Barnish and McIlroy are firm believers that vegetables contain the most nutrients and are touted to prevent chronic illness, hence why their products have the greatest amount of fresh vegetables. The duo thinks the best way to kickstart your healthy lifestyle is to drink cold pressed juices regularly and integrate healthy habits into daily living. “Our inspiration comes from our upbringing in Australia. The lifestyle there is very health-focused and fresh produce is readily available. We grew up eating well and know how good it makes you feel”, said Barnish.
When asked what detox trends they forsee in 2018, Barnish and Mcllroy said, “We believe cold pressed juices are part of a staple daily diet. We prefer not to use the word trend as the health benefits for us are established. We hope to see more people be aware of what they are putting into their bodies and looking after themselves.” 8 Finance Street, Central. geniejuicery.com
Joe & The Juice What makes this juice chain stand out from the crowd is its music, hip juicers showing off their juggling skill with fruit and its overall upbeat vibe. Joe & the Juice also have a penchant for experimentation, for instance infusing ingredients like chilli into their vegan friendly juices and serving a healthy diet without compromising on taste. Heads up: their spicy tuna sandwich is one
of our absolute favs. L/4, Times Square, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay. joejuice.com
Catch Juicery There’s no better way to kickstart the year than to flush out all the holiday toxins. Concocted by acclaimed Hollywood nutritionist, Lisa Defazio, Catch Juicery provides a wide range of cold pressed juices, organic smoothies and juice shots for health conscious individuals. They also have guiltfree salads and raw foods at fairly reasonable prices. Shop 303, L/3, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central. 9317 7796, catchjuicery.com
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dining
Cook at home Just Green Just Green’s health-oriented products have all been carefully selected to minimize the environmental impact of both production and distribution. Just Green stock over 10,000 healthy foods, beverages, snacks, supplements, groceries and more. 22 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung. 2325 9994, justgreen.com.hk
meats, condiments, and baby food. Market Place also stock a range of Sainsbury’s products, including their organic range–– comforting if you’re missing a taste of home. Marina Cove Shopping Centre, Ho Chung, Sai Kung. 2243 0731, marketplacebyjasons.com
as pie, and they also do next day delivery for weekday orders placed before noon. 9556 0070, farmersmarket.com.hk
Green Concept A wide variety of health and green products to champion a healthy lifestyle. Offerings include foodstuff, organic sprouting seeds, green drinks, organic coffee and substitutes, and healthy snacks. Aside from stuff for your weekly shop, they’ve also got gluten free options, supplements, natural body care products, and homeopathic medicinal remedies. Shop online or pop instore. 2/F Prosperous Commercial Building, 54-58 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay. 2882 4848, online.healthshop.com.hk
South Stream Seafoods Farmer’s Market Market Place By Jasons This popular lifestyle supermarket surely needs no introduction. They have a large range of organic products, including rice and grainsbased foods, dairy, drinks, fresh produce,
Haggling in a wet market isn’t for everyone, so Farmer’s Market has taken out the hassle in buying meat from traceable and sustainable sources. They guarantee 100% plant-based beef free of antibiotics and hormones, rich in omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B6 and with less calories. Ordering from their website is easy
Despite its name, South Stream doesn’t just deal in seafood. They’ve got pretty much everything you need to whip up a healthy home-cooked meal, products like gluten-free spaghetti, organic ribeye steaks to organic mushroom broth. South Stream sources their meat from Australia and New Zealand, and you can get it cut to your liking. New customers can enjoy a 10% discount by entering reference code HKLDEC10 during checkout. 2555 6200, south-stream-seafoods.com
NIBBLES
Sha Tin Hyatt buffet Cafe at Hyatt Regency Sha Tin has introduced new dinner menu items to their buffet including Uni, salmon roe chirashi, braised abalone and and many more. Dinner service begins at 6pm. Available Monday to Thursday ($558) and Friday to Sunday and public holidays ($618). 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin. For more information, call 3723 1234 or visit hongkongshatin.regency.hyatt.com
Michelin results for Sai Kung In the newly released 2018 Michelin guide, Loaf On and Sing Kee Seafood Restaurant have
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maintained their one-star michelin, which they’ve held since 2014. Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant and Kam Fai Seafood Restaurant also won a Michelin Plate distinction in the new guide. Visit guide.michelin.com/hk for more information.
WA Theater Restaurant A new Japanese fine dining restaurant opens in Pak Sha Wan. Hinted in the name, Wa Theatre Restaurant is a theatrical restaurant which invites diners to experience animated adventures featuring food from Japan. The restaurant seats
40 people and prior reservations are needed as meals will be personalised. However, vegetarians and those who are lactose-intolerant might want to sit this one out as their dishes heavily feature fish and milk items. Open Tuesdays to Sundays. Lunch available at noon-2pm and costs $800 per person for a seven course meal. Dinner available from 7-9:30pm, costs $1,800 per person for 12 courses. The Pier Hotel, Pak Sha Wan. Visit wa-theater.hk/restaurant/ or call 2779 7797 to reserve a table.
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Photo courtesy of The Open University of Hong Kong
education
Broaden your mind
The Open University of Hong Kong
Rachel Harina rounds up the best part-time and evening courses for adults
Career changing The Open University of Hong Kong (OUHK)
Hong Kong Design Institute (HKDI)
Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD)
OUHK provides more than 230 part-time on campus programs as well as online courses in a wide range of subjects from Business & Administration, Education & Languages, Science & Technology, to Art & Social Sciences. From postgraduates degrees to sub degree certifications courses, they have four campuses around Kowloon with the main campus located in Ho Man Tin. 30 Good Shepherd Street, Ho Man Tin, 2768 6601, info@ouhk.edu.hk, ouhk.edu.hk
A member of the VTC group, Hong Kong Design Institute focuses on design programmes offering professional diplomas and certification in design related courses including fashion, multimedia, interior, architecture, digital marketing, jewellery, product design and more. They regularly showcase their work in their public design gallery in Tiu Keng Leng and various competitions. 3 King Ling Road, Tiu Keng Leng, Tseung Kwan O, 3928 2000, hkdi.edu.hk, hkdi@vtc.edu.hk
The International college for creative minds, SCAD has 4 campuses offering full-time, parttime and less-than part-time creative-industry related degrees. But for those who unable to gain access to a SCAD campus you also go online. SCAD has been providing more than 15 online, e-learning courses for more than 12 years. 292 Tai Po Road, Sham Shui Po, 2253 8044, admission@scad.edu.hk, scad.edu
Ideal for someone looking to gain a diploma, VTC is well-reputed in Hong Kong with their part-time evening programmes focusing on Engineering and Information Technology diplomas. Classes are held across many campuses all over Hong Kong from 6:30-9:30pm or 7:00-10:00pm. Some programmes have classes scheduled on Saturdays, Sundays or during Summer Semester. If you are not available during the evening, VTC have plenty of part-time day programmes as well. 2836 1000, admission@vtc.edu.hk, vtc.edu.hk
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Photo by Wpcpey via Wikimedia Commons
Vocational Training Council (VTC)
MAKE UP FOR EVER When a makeup tutorial on YouTube just isn’t enough, enroll on MAKE UP FOR EVER’s academy for some professional makeup advice. Located in Causeway Bay, MAKE UP FOR EVER provides elementary makeup training courses for beginners starting at $2,650. Beauty and bridal certification courses are also available starting at $16,800. Prices include four lessons. The courses start every two months. Lessons run on weekday evenings or all-day weekend. 513 Hennessy Road, 3rd Floor, Wellable Commercial Building, Causeway Bay Hong Kong, 2506 3506, makeupforever.com, info@makeupforeveracademy.com.hk
new year, new you new skill and earn a course certificate within four to six weeks. Prices vary but expect around $29$99 per course. Online only at Online only at coursera.org
EdX
Accelerated HK
Accelerated HK Interested in computer programming? Then you just might want to check out the world of emerging technology with Accelerated HK. They offer courses including python coding in 3 weeks and Artificial Intelligence. The part-time courses regularly held on Tuesdays and Thursdays between 7pm to 9pm in Sheung Wan. Full time immersive courses are also available which teaches the skills to become a junior software developer. Part-time courses starts at $1,998. 16F, 40 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, 5598 7836, acceleratedhk.com, admin@acceleratedhk.com
Insight School of Interior Design The only school in Hong Kong that specializes in interior design, Insight offers over 20 short courses introducing the tools of the trade. Part-time interior design certification courses are available as well as year-long professional diplomas. The school’s strong ties to international and local industries will give students the contacts and confidence to get
started in the design industry. Meet contractors, clients and practitioners of the industry. Short courses are priced from $2,600. 24/F, Federal Centre, 77 Sheung On Street, Chai Wan, 2114 2021, info@insightschoolhk.com, insightschoolhk.com
General Assembly Providing both full-time and part-time courses for those looking for a change in career. Subjects include coding, design, marketing and business. General Assembly provides flexibility to suit most student needs with both online and on-campus classes during evenings and weekends. Try it out with their free beginner’s coding class. 8F, 33 Des Voeux Road, Central, generalassemb.ly, hk@generalassemb.ly
Online only Coursera Originally founded by Stanford professors, Coursera has grown to more than 28 million users worldwide. At Coursera you can pick up a
Created by The Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Harvard University with the mission to increase global access to quality education, EdX gives students access to courses from the best universities and institutions from around the world including Hong Kong University. All courses are completed online with certifications. Students will learn through online media content and can communicate using the discussion forums to get their question quickly answered by teaching assistants or their fellow students. Some classes free, others charged. Online only at edx.org
Skillshare Learn a new skill or improve an old one. Join over 3 million other students in classes taught by real world practitioners. Premium memberships cost $12USD and provide unlimited access to over 18,000 classes. Still unsure? The first month is entirely free. Online only at Skillshare.com
Sports Hebe Haven Yacht Club It’s never too late to learn to sail. Hebe Haven Yacht Club offer adult sailing courses for beginners to advanced sailers. Courses start at $3,675 for members. For non-members courses start at $5,250. Courses consist of five full day classes from 10am-5pm. Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, 2719 7931, hhyc@hhyc.org.hk, hhyc.org.hk
Pure Pure offers teacher training courses for yoga enthusiasts. Aimed at those wishing to explore the deeper dimensions of yoga. After the course, participants will be eligible to become a RYT (Registered Yoga Teacher) with Yoga Alliance. 200 hour teacher training priced around $35,200. Locations across Hong Kong visit the website for specific contact details. hk.pure-yoga.com
Insight School of Interior Design
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education
Photo courtesy of Hong Kong Photography Workshop
Arts, craf ts and baking Hong Kong Photography Workshop
Complete Deelite For the sweet tooths, Complete Deelite has many courses and workshops so you can show off your baking and decorating skills next time your friends come around. There is a huge selection of classes to choose from including decorating basics, seasonal workshops and even allergy friendly courses. Workshops start at $650 for non-members. 2/F, On Lan Centre, 11-15 On Lan Street, Central, 3167-7022, info@completedeelite.com, completedeelite.com
Helen’s latest art projects and get inspired to create your own work of art. Classes available include life drawing, painting and stitching. Sessions start at $200 but vary depending on the class selected. 1/1 Wan King Path, Sai Kung, 9123 8664, helenbronteboyd.com
Kuro Vale Try your hand at pottery with Kuro Vale and take your completed master pieces home. The well-equipped pottery studio is located above their shop in old town. Pottery classes are held in English on Saturdays 10:30am-12:30pm, all other classes are bilingual. Each class lasts two hours. Choose from either four lessons ($1,200) or five lessons ($1,500) a month. Extra charges for firing and materings not included. G/F, 48 See Cheung Street, Sai Kung, 2792 0102, kurovale@hotmail.com, facebook.com/kurovale.hk
Performing arts Russian Ballet School Anastassia’s Art House Get creative on canvas with Anastassia’s Art House adult classes. Their oil and acrylic Painting lessons is a hands-on course that teaches would-be artists technique, colour theory, composition, structure, proportion, perspective and paint manipulation. Students learn to capture a scene’s light, atmosphere and mood, and develop their skills. This comprehensive course costs $5,980 for 13 threehour classes, held weekdays, 10am-1pm. Hoi Pong Street, Sai Kung, 2719 5533, saikung@arthouse-hk.com, arthouse-hk.com
H Gallery Sai Kung artist Helen Boyd hosts regular art classes for adults at H Studio Gallery. Check out
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Russian Ballet School is the first of its kind in Hong Kong and the first to exclusively use the Vaganova Syllabus, designed to avoid injuries but still be highly disciplined. They provide intensive five day courses for adult beginners which includes a certificate upon completion. Classes are priced from $2,500. 787 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 2570 2006, rbshkisland@gmail.com, russianballetschool-hk.com
Twinkle Dance Company Twinkle Dance Company offer adult dance programs in both Contemporary and Ballet. Experienced dance teachers will patiently and carefully instruct each movement, so you won’t feel overwhelmed, perfect for those who have a little or no dance experience. Twinkle Dance
Company hold both Contemporary and Ballet classes for adults twice a week. 9/F Capital Commercial Building, 26 Leighton Road, 6608 1699, info@twinkledance.com, twinkledance.com
Music International Academy (M.intAcademy) Cultivate your musical talent with M.int Academy, which provides private and group musical instrumental classes for adults including flute, piano and saxophone. Learn the basics with their Music in a Minim class or try out the adult’s choir or acapella group. Don’t worry, no auditions required. Group classes from $270 per class when you book a session of 12. Private classes can be booked from $400. Casey Aberdeen House, 38 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, 3596 7094, info@mintacademyhk.com, mintacademyhk.com
HK Theatre Association Have what it takes to shine on stage? The HK Theatre Association offers 10 week courses throughout the year. With professional acting coaches covering body exploration, voice work, teamwork and character building, they will bring out the inner talent in each individual. Courses are taught in English and French. Sheung Wan, Hong Kong, 2851 0091, info@hkta.org.hk, hkta.org.hk Photo by @Dragoneye Photography
Grab your camera and get ready to shoot some great photos. With classes like photography 101, street photography and night photography, photographers of all skill levels can explore and see Hong Kong in a new light under the guidance of professional photographers. Class sizes are guaranteed to be small with no more than eight students. Classes last three to four hours long. Private lessons and courses for photo editing are also available. Starts at $800. Unit 602, 15 Queen Victoria Street, Central, Hong Kong, 9172 9101, info@hkphotoworkshop.com, hkphotoworkshop.com
new year, new you
Languages GAIA Language Learn Chinese, English, Spanish or Latin in 2018 with one of GAIA’s adult classes. Located on Caine Road in Central, GAIA features five classrooms, a waiting and reading area with a library ambience. Courses for both individual and groups are available for adults. Prices start from $400 per hour. G/F, 25B Caine Road, Central, 2530 9888, info@gaialanguage.com, gaialanguage.com
different languages including English, French, German, Spanish, Mandarin, Cantonese and Japanese. Crash courses are also available for those looking to top up their skills. Prices from around $6,000 for a 15 week course. 6/F Wellington Plaza, 56-58 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 2877 6160, info@hklanguages.com , hklanguages.com
New Concept Mandarin New Concept Mandarin offers Mandarin courses
for people from all walks of life. Their classes are held at their Central or in the client’s home. They offer flexible options such as online learning, private or group classes and even immersion and intensive courses. But why not start off with their free trial lesson? Private course prices range from $360 to $560 per hour. 13/F, Fortune House, 61 Connaught Road Central, Hong Kong, 2850 4332, hongkong@newconceptmandarin.com, newconceptmandarin.com
Spanish World Spanish World provides a range of adult courses suitable for beginners, advance speakers and everyone in between. Courses are conducted in groups with examinations at the end of every module. Prices start from $4,900 for 12 lessons, lasting two hours each. Room 404 4/F, Lap Fai Building, 6-8 Pottinger Street, Central, 2526 9927, info@spanishworldhk.com, spanishworldhk.com
Hong Kong Institute of Languages Not sure which language to learn? Hong Kong Institute of Languages offers courses in seven
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health & beauty 2018 hair trends by Jacquiline 1. More flowy natural hair styles will be in. We’ve already seen this with makeup but structured hair styles will be out. 2. Earthy toned hair colours will be hot in 2018. People are moving away from the warmer tones and leaning towards ash colours. 3. The layered bob - first popularized by Jennifer Aniston - will continue to be popular in 2018 but will have a modernized look. We’re now feathering it and texturing it to make the old look new. Jacquiline provides professional services such as cuts and colour, treatments, extensions, blowouts and special occasion styles and makeup. WhatsApp her on 6340 5510 or follow her daily chronicles at doubletroublecopingwithtwins.com
Day out with Braedan and Lachlan
Jacquiline Hamilton Eric Ho speaks to the hairstylist about her journey to becoming a professional and mum of twins I was born in Botswana. It is a place close to my heart because it’s all natural and all my family are there. Originally I wanted to be an accountant. But one day I found myself in a very busy salon waiting for my haircut. The hairdresser was too busy to sweep so I asked if she wanted me to help. She said yes and told me to come back tomorrow for a free haircut. As a student with no money, I took the offer. I started with sweeping hair, then making coffee. Eventually she taught me how to wash hair, how to blowdry and finally how to cut someone’s hair. My first time cutting ended up being my worst haircut ever. It was on a man with very straight hair - very difficult to cut for someone with no experience. But he liked it and even gave me a tip. Six weeks later he came back and requested for me. I think that was when the small seed of
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becoming a hairdresser was planted. I raised money through baking scones and doughnuts so that I could study hairdressing in South Africa. By the end of the year I paid for my flight and the deposit for the school. I opened my first salon in Botswana at the age of 26. I had so much passion for hairdressing that I just jumped in. Looking back, I think this is where I got my high blood pressure from because it was so difficult to maintain. I met my husband Graham at my salon. He came in through the door and had the nicest beard. When he left, I knew that I was going to marry him. I sold the salon and we came to Hong Kong when he got offered a position here. I worked at Tala’s when I first arrived. Anyone who wants to learn hairdressing should just bring their CV along to a salon. That’s what I did with Tala’s and Peninsula. There’s a real demand for
Jacquiline styling at Peninsula salon
hairdressers in Sai Kung because most want to work in Central. The first 8 months of our marriage was spent in the hospital. After we got married, Graham had to go back to Scotland to get chemotherapy because he had Testicular cancer. It was his third time with cancer but he’s been cancer free since. We went looking for Graham’s frozen sperm in the UK. It was done such a long time ago we didn’t know where it was being kept. We eventually found it in Edinburgh and had it shipped over to Hong Kong. We now have two beautiful twin boys, Braedan and Lachlan. Sometimes I feel guilty when I leave the house and the kids cry. But it is a lot of strain for my husband to support the family alone. It also makes me happy that I can contribute and can do something I’m passionate about. It’s all worth it when I come home and I can see their faces light up.
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big day out
Outside the temple in Sam A
Deserted village walk Tara Smyth rediscovers villages forgotten in time
O
ne needs to put aside a full day for this epic adventure. Located within the Plover Cove Country Park, it’s a fair journey to get there in the first
instance. This 17 kilometre hike presents a way of Hong Kong life, not witnessed by most. You will pass through a plethora of old Hakka villages, some of which are still inhabited today. For those villages whose residents left long ago, nature has taken over and flora can be seen growing in and around windows and doorframes. Roofs have caved in offering views through the broken tiles and beams to the forests above. Pieces of furniture and humble household items have been left where they were last used and vines now crawl around chair legs and bedposts. The walk starts in Wu Kau Tang – there is a car park at the end of Wu Kau Tang Road, off Bride’s Pool Road. Alternatively, catch minibus 20R. To begin the hike, you need to take the concrete path to the left of the pavilion where you will see a signboard and map. Across the bridge take the left hand path, signposted Sam A Tseun and Sam A Chung. You are in fact headed for Sam A Tseun, via Lai Tau Shek. First walk alongside a sizeable stream and pass fantastic bamboo grasses, rising up and over the path. When you reach some stone
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steps going up towards the left, take these and continue for some time. After a small hill and some woodland paths, you will descend to sea level and find yourself amongst some very interesting flora growing in the swampy flatlands to your right. It is amongst these flatlands that you will eventually come to a few deserted houses and a small restaurant at the end – Yama Diner. The mama running the diner is extremely friendly and offers excellent, clean, fully-flushing ‘convenience’ facilities. Once you leave here, head to the crossroad junction on the path and take a left turn to Lai Chi Wo. You will pass through Sam A, another semi-deserted village, with an interesting temple and some public toilets. Follow the signs to Lai Chi Wo and you can’t go wrong. Once you reach the coastline, Shenzhen Port will present itself in the distance. Continue skirting this Jurassic coastline, notable for its rich redcoloured sedimentary rock, for a few minutes more and you will reach Lai Chi Wo – literally meaning Lychee Nest – once famous for its lychee trees it grew for income. Lai Chi Wo is an excellent Blue lion statue inside the temple
place to stop for a packed lunch as there is plenty of space to sit down and there is much to explore. Home to an interesting ‘walled’ village, you will find residents living out their years in a tranquil, chilled-out manner. Amongst the inhabited houses are further deserted dwellings with flora winding its way in and out of the windows and roofs. The residents are friendly; one man offered us some homemade hibiscus, coconut and chia seed ice-lollies with edible chrysanthemum flowers embedded in them. Absolutely delicious! After nosing around Lai Chi Wo, head to the water, pass through the ornate arch and continue left along the waterfront. You should
Foxy Loxy be happy to be on the trail
plover adventure
Abandoned villages falling apart
be following signs to So Lo Pun. Head uphill through the woods and here the path gets quite steep. The descent is equally steep with crooked, slightly precarious, wooden steps taking you back down to sea-level. You will arrive in a valley with Shenzhen Port on your right and mangroves on your left. Continue along and take the left hand path at the end. So Lo Pun is the piece de resistance of this hike. A derelict Hakka village, it is believed to be haunted and hikers have reported that compasses stop working when they enter the village. Here you can walk amongst the old
houses and see entire trees winding their way up deserted buildings. Reminiscent of the Angkor region in Cambodia, one can really lose oneself in the ethereal surroundings and imagine what life was once like here. Continue along the path and you will come to some steps on your right, signposted Luk Keng. Go up this hill, back down over the other side and you will now have resplendent views of Shenzhen right in front of you. The walk continues along a concrete path, all the way to Luk Keng, passing more villages and interesting sights on the way. With the modernity
A cow basks in the sun with Shenzhen at the back
of towering Shenzhen on your right and the dilapidation and decay of a bygone era on your left, the end of this walk offers striking contrasts that cannot be imagined. Once at Luk Keng, reward yourself with a cold drink at the dai pai dong and allow the kind proprietor to order you a taxi home. Tara Smyth runs photography company Nitty Gritty Image. For details, visit facebook.com/NittyGrittyImages
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travel
Everest Base Camp Shreena Patel heads to Nepal on a classic “bucket list” adventure
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Spanish bites at Casa de Tapas.
the high life
I
Dingboche
wouldn’t describe myself as a trekking enthusiast—the last time I slept in a tent was over a decade ago. But I do enjoy the outdoors, and more to the point I find it hard to back down from a challenge. So when, as a final parting gesture from Asia, my boyfriend suggested we trek to Everest Base Camp, I was all in. Looking back, my ignorance was bliss, but I have no regrets. The romance attached to the highest mountain in the world quickly swept us away and before we knew it we were boarding the 7pm Wednesday flight to Kathmandu. Five hours later, we’d got our visas on arrival and were being whisked away to our hotel in Thamel for a quick briefing and a few hours sleep. The adventure began earlier than I anticipated, at 6.30am the next morning to be exact, on the flight to Lukla, a small mountain village from which most treks to Everest Base Camp begin. Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary Airport was built in 1964 under the supervision of Sir Edmund Hillary, who in 1953 together with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay led the first successful expedition to the summit of Mount Everest. It is widely considered one of the world’s most dangerous airports, thanks to its mountainous surroundings—there is high terrain immediately beyond one end of the runway and a steep drop at the other into the valley below—and extremely short runway. The plane was the smallest and nimblest I’ve ever been on—no more than 10 passengers boarded via a tiny staircase and the stewardess passed out boiled sweets and cotton wool to stuff in our ears before take off. While in the air, we enjoyed fantastic views of the mountains and around 30 minutes later we landed in Lukla, where we were met by our guide Narayan and porter Jhangi. After a quick breakfast of paratha and masala chai at a nearby teahouse we set off on our trek. The route from Lukla to Everest Base Camp spans 65 kilometres and follows the milky blue Dudh Kosi River (dudh means milk) north through the Khumbu—a collection of valleys comprising the heart of Sherpa country. The river is fed by the meltwater from the Khumbu Glacier, which first flows into the Lobuche River and then southward as the Imja River to meet the Dudh Kosi River just below Tengboche. It’s possible for strong walkers who are pre-acclimatized to the altitude to cover the distance to base camp in a few days, but most people need longer to adapt to the thinning air. We had eight days to go up and three to come down, walking five to seven hours per day. With the late morning sun on our backs, excitement in our hearts, and our last shower just a few hours earlier we were feeling positive. We passed through the souvenir shops and houses of Lukla, over small streams, past prayer wheels, chorten (religious monuments similar
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travel
Did you knobyw? the Mount Everest is known Sherpa as Sagamartha “Head of the Sky“ and the Tibetans as Chomolungma “Mother Goddess of the Universe“.
in structure to pagodas) and mani walls (long low walls made of stone plates inscribed in Sanskrit with the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum; according to Buddhist tradition, travelers should always pass mani walls on the left). Before long we had arrived at our first overnight stop, the small village of Phakding. Not much happens in Phakding, but it is beautifully set by the river and green forest. A couple of bars offer free pool or snooker—a popular pastime—and the odd film screening of Everest. The film covers the route to base camp in a video montage that lasts barely 30 seconds. It’s hard to believe that for some people the trek to base camp is only the beginning of a treacherous two-month expedition. Over dinner in the teahouse we met a trekker from Belgium who had already been
in the Khumbu for three weeks and was exhibiting symptoms of what he referred to as the “Khumbu cough”, a terrible sounding hack caused by the low humidity and sub-zero temperatures experienced at high altitude. Nearly everyone develops it to some degree, as we would later find out for ourselves. The next day’s ascent to Namche Bazaar, the main trading and social hub of the Khumbu, proved much more challenging, not least because whilst taking a picture I narrowly escaped being knocked into the river by a porter carrying several doors on his back. After entering into Sagarmatha National Park and crossing the impressive Hillary suspension bridge we began a long steep climb to Namche, leaving the banks of the river and zigzagging up through the trees. My pace slowed, my head began to
The Dudh Kosi River
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Once the sun went in, temperatures dropped almost instantly
ache and I found myself becoming breathless quickly, but as I stopped to rest and watched passing yaks and donkeys laden with kerosene fuel canisters and sacks of rice, and Sherpas in flip flops hauling their own body weight in firewood, building materials or even beer up the trail, I thought it better to keep my complaints to myself. In fact, most of the said “yaks” are actually dzom and dzopkyo (female and male crossbreeds of yaks and cattle, respectively); yaks are much woolier and Narayan explained that they aren’t really seen below Namche. Half way up to Namche, we got our first glimpse of Everest through a gap in the trees, the summit just peeking out behind a mountain ridge. It was surreal to see it with my own eyes. Looking back over the valley below, the scene was magnificent, almost as if we had stepped out of real life and into a painting. We arrived in Namche in the early afternoon, our bags already there—thanks to Jhangi—as if by magic. From above, Namche looks like a big bowl, filled with narrow streets, shops, teahouses, cafes and bars. Every Saturday there is a Sherpa market but any day of the week is
the high life ITINERARY (with elevations) - Day 1 (start of trek): Kathmandu (1,400m) – Lukla (2,800m) – Phakding (2,652m) - Day 2: Phakding – Namche (3,440m) - Day 3: Acclimatisation - Day 4: Namche – Deboche (3,820m) - Day 5: Deboche – Dingboche (4,360m) - Day 6: Acclimatisation day - Day 7: Dingboche – Lobuche (4,940m) - Day 8: Lobuche – Gorak Shep (5,170m) - Everest Base Camp (5,367m) - Gorakshep - Day 9: Gorak Shep – Pangboche (3,967m) - Day 10: Pangboche – Namche - Day 11 (last day of trek): Namche – Lukla - Day 12: Lukla – Kathmandu
Above: Walking across the moraine Right: Namche Bazaar
filled with trekkers stocking up on gear, toiletries and souvenirs, swigging hot chocolates and taking advantage of the free wifi and charging points offered by cafes. Having not showered in two days, I eagerly paid the 500 rupees for a hot shower at our teahouse. It was money well spent (it would be a while until the next). Never was I so aware of the impact of the sun than on this trip—when it was high in the
Crossing the Hillary suspension bridge on the way to Namche
sky it was warm enough to work up a sweat while walking, dry wet hair and even strip down to a single layer, but once it went down, temperatures dropped almost instantly. Thankfully, all teahouses in which we stayed had chimneys which were heated for a couple of glorious hours every evening at about 5pm (even earlier sometimes with a bit of coaxing) using a combination of wood and yak dung—the latter which appeared to be in plentiful supply along the trail. As usual, after dinner Narayan briefed us on the next day’s trek. He also used a little machine, called a pulse oximeter, to read our oxygen levels. Readings in normal conditions usually range from 95–100. Mine registered at 81. We were told to drink much more water—at least four litres a day—to get our oxygen levels up, a challenge for someone who barely manages six glasses a day. After hurriedly gulping down another half-litre each, we headed to bed at 7:30pm, the earliest in a long time. The following day was listed on the itinerary as an acclimatisation day. Note to self, acclimatisation does not mean rest. In this case, it meant a three- to four-hour morning hike which took us up to small museum and an Everest viewpoint for our second glimpse of the beast. This was followed by a steep ascent towards the Hotel Everest View (awarded the title of Highest Placed Hotel in the World by the 1999
Guinness Book of Records). From here, we enjoyed spectacular panoramic views of the mountains, most of which I would struggle to name correctly now, aside from the strikingly beautiful Ama Dablam, its recognisable spike piercing the crisp, blue winter sky. The acclimatisation hike helped me immensely—some people chose not to take part but I would highly recommend doing it to help your body adjust faster to the altitude. That night my oxygen reading was 87, I had my best night’s sleep of the entire trek and walking the next day was much easier. From Namche we ventured onto the tiny town of Deboche (the closest I ever hope to get to sleeping in an actual freezer) via the historic Tengboche monastery. The next morning, wrapped up in at least five layers each and a hat, we encountered marathon runners on their way down from base camp to Namche wearing just vests and shorts. I couldn’t think of anything I’d rather do less but at the same time I envied them—they were on their descent. We continued on above the treeline, leaving the last of the greenery behind us, to Dingboche—a collection of teahouses and potato fields lying in the shadow of the magnificent Ama Dablam. Here, we spent our second and last acclimatisation day, climbing up onto a nearby ridge for sensational views of the Imja Valley, Ama Dablam and the south face of Mount Lhotse. The next day, we headed towards Lobuche and the foot of the highest glacier in the world, the Khumbu Glacier—a 12 kilometre stretch of solid ice that flows from Everest. The path through the valley was like walking on another planet, amongst huge lone boulders, mountainsides covered in what looked like rivers of black rock and dry, wide open terrain. After stopping for a quick lunch at Tukla, we weaved our way up through the boulders of the glacier’s
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travel
Prayer flags are hung in the highest and windiest places to carry their message of peace across the world
Did you know?
Garlic soup is recommended to alleviate headaches.
Crossing the river before the climb to Tukla
At the Everest viewpoint in Namche, pointing to the beast!
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terminal moraine. At the top lay a number of stone cairns built as memorials to fallen climbers, particularly eerie in the late morning mist. From here, the path continued through the barren and bitterly cold, rocky wilderness to reach the small cluster of teahouses at the bleak-looking Lobuche—my least favourite place of the trip, though much improved from the grim conditions described in Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. The next morning couldn’t come quickly enough. Finally, it was “goal day”—after meandering for three hours up and down the loose rock of the lateral moraine we reached the last pitstop of Gorak Shep where we stopped for lunch and would later return to sleep. It was another three hours to base camp, across the moraine and then finally onto the glacier itself. Base camp is located at the foot of the perilous Khumbu Icefall, a passage of constantly falling blocks of ice—some the size of buildings—from the head of the Khumbu Glacier, at the point where the ice begins to melt. As the ice melts, the glacier moves (at an estimated between three to four feet per day) which can create sudden crevasses and collapsing ice towers, making the icefall possibly the most dangerous part of the climb up the South Col
A porter
route to the summit of Everest. If you stand still and listen you can hear the ice cracking at base camp. As I dragged my feet, which by this point felt like lead weights, to the small mass of flags and signs that signified the end of our ascent, and slowly reached my hand out to touch the ice podium, I felt an overwhelming sense of relief coupled with an intense desire to sit down. The view was incredible, simultaneously awesome and terrifying: the solid ice of the glacier beneath our feet gleamed like polished white jade; the summit of Everest itself stood, silently intimidating, before our eyes; and the treacherous icefall bared its jagged white teeth in between the two. It sent shivers down my spine. After the customary photos and a few minutes to bask in the glory of our achievement, we headed back to Gorak Shep. I felt a second wind of energy as we began our descent which I attribute to a mixture of A yak
the high life
Above the treeline
acclimatisation, joy and eager anticipation of the impending luxuries of sea level life. On the way down, we covered considerably more distance each day. One afternoon we passed a teahouse that had burnt to the ground two days before (nobody was hurt), not as rare an occurrence as you might think thanks to the combination of chimneys, entirely wooden interiors and a lack of emergency services and transport infrastructure. Over the course of the trip, I’d not seen or heard much of the earthquake two years ago which killed 9,000 and injured or made homeless many more. The fate of the teahouse was a reminder that while our surroundings were absolutely beautiful—and despite some modern conveniences such as limited hydroelectric power, phones and wifi—life in the mountains is hard and unforgiving. Would I recommend this trip? Absolutely, but it’s important to know what you’re getting into. This is not your average holiday. It’s not cheap, it’s hard and not everyone makes it to base camp. It’s very difficult to predict who might be affected by acute altitude sickness, it can affect anyone regardless of physical fitness. For me, it was an unforgettable experience of highs and lows. The lows were largely due to altitude related symptoms such as headaches, breathlessness and lack of sleep, but also lack of access to things I took for granted: hot running water, showers, flushing toilets, heating, even food. On the other hand, the absence of any motorised transport en route (excluding low flying helicopters either carrying cargo or rescuing trekkers) and almost total lack of digital communication meant there was a rare purity to the journey—if you want to see these views, you must walk. We went late in the season, which meant we avoided the crowds, and we were very lucky to enjoy clear skies throughout and no precipitation. One of the other great things about the trek was the camaraderie within and across groups as we all bumped into each other at various stages of our respective journeys. Whether it
Whilst our surroundings were absolutely beautiful... life in the mountains is hard and unforgiving Arriving at base camp
was to bemoan the number of loo visits that results from drinking four litres of water a day, bolster each other on to the next stop or discuss rumours of a wild mongoose running about the teahouse the previous night, there was always plenty to chat about. I was surprised by the range of people who all found themselves on this trip, from teenagers to grandparents, mother-and-daughter duos to sole trekkers, a doctor recently diagnosed with arthritis in her knees to a group of university students from Australia. When asked why they’d chosen to do the trek, most people responded with some reference to their “bucket list”; some were serial trekkers; others were on gap year type holidays; a few had been inspired by what they’d read and seen in films. We booked our trek through Himalayan Wonders, thanks in large part to the responsiveness and honesty of our main point of contact, Dr. David Urmann. The company was able to provide us with comprehensive packing lists, practical advice on everything from visas to water, down jackets and sleeping bags (absolute lifesavers) and all the transfers and pick ups. Our guide and porter were knowledgeable, positive and focused throughout the journey on getting us safely to base camp. The company organised excellent accomodation in Kathmandu and a very enjoyable farewell dinner with fellow trekkers before our flight home. I would highly recommend it to others. Get in touch at himalayanwonders.com
POINTERS - Nepal visas are available on arrival. - Make sure you have rupees with you before heading into the mountain. You can change at Namche but it will be more expensive. - Peak season is from around March to mid-May and early September to midNovember. Consider weather, average temperatures and crowds when making your decision. - Delays and cancellations to and from Lukla are frequent (due to weather conditions) so always factor in buffer days when booking your flights back home. - Aside from potatoes and barley, pretty much everything you eat is carried up the mountain. That means the higher the altitude, the longer it takes to get there, so its not advisable to eat meat or much dairy. The staple dish is daal bhat. - It is possible to carry your own trekking equipment but with Himalayan Wonders we were each able to pack up to 15kg into a duffle bag to be carried by a porter - Stay positive, keep hydrated and protect your head—wear a wooly hat in cold winds to prevent headaches. - “English flat” = flat. “Nepali flat” = up and down. - Always carry loo roll!
SAIKUNG.COM | 47
pets
Woof!
Walkies with Bronte Harris of ESF Clearwater Bay School
Ask a vet... Pets Central’s veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.
I
often walk my dogs, Dilly and Snowflake, when I get home from school. Our helper Jhing and I walk the dogs close to our house in Tai Mong Tsai village. We stay close to the village because Snowflake is so small and has such short legs so she gets tired quickly - then I have to carry her the rest of the way! A quick walk we do after school is along the footpath from Tai Mong Tsai village to She Tau village. To get to the walk you need to first come to my village. From Sai Kung you can take the 94 or 96R bus towards Wong Shek pier or the minibus 7 or 9. There is also a carpark in the village if you want to drive. Once you get to Tai Mong Tsai village walk down the steps next to the little restaurant and across the bridge over the stream. Watch out for the huge spiders that build their webs on either side of the bridge! Carry on up the steps on the other side of the river, walk through the carpark and you will meet Chi Fai Road which continues left behind the first row of houses. The road ends and you will come across some green railings and a sign and footpath towards She Tau village. In the summer I see monkeys in the trees around here. Take the footpath which leads behind the village, then follow the concrete path which leads onto a mud path. The path will take you all the way to She Tau village. Recently the views on the walk have changed because they are building some big, new houses at She Tau village. We have timed the walk, it takes about 15 minutes there and a bit longer back as I am usually carrying Snowflake all the way home! I think it’s about two kilometres in total so it is good if you have a dog with small legs like Snowflake’s.
Sai Kung residents share their favourite dog walks 48 | SAIKUNG.COM
Tai Mong Tsai
“Is it possible to toilet train a kitten?” In theory and usually in practice, toilet training a kitten is straightforward. Most kittens quickly learn to toilet in the appropriate place. By the time most are weaned (seven to eight weeks) and go to new homes they have already learnt toileting. The most important teacher is their mother. Provide a clean absorbent substrate, with a texture the kitten likes, that allows scratching and digging pre/post toileting. It should be scooped daily and changed weekly, and kept in an easily accessible place. Deny access to other similar substrates in the house like plant plant soil. If kittens consistently fail to use the litter box they should be checked out for a medical problem. “We got a second kitten but they don’t get along. Is there a way to get them to play with each other?” I suspect patience and time is required. It can take two to three weeks for recently introduced kittens to like each other. The ages of both kittens are important but most youngsters eventually get along just fine. Difficulties arise if you try and introduce a young kitten to a much older kitten or cat. Some cats simply want to be alone and live in their own solitary social group. Some kittens are fearful, others bossy and wild. The critical age for any introduction is before your resident cat is over 3 years old. Feeding stations, toilets, the environment, medical problems as well as play are involved in them getting along. Play usually happens in due course as kittens do love to play. If not, a vet check would be indicated. “Our dog keeps licking her paws, but there are no signs of wounds or parasites. What should I do?” Licking paws is part of normal grooming while over licking paws is a common problem among dogs with allergies and other medical problems. With over licking, the paw hairs tend to get stained by the dog’s saliva and can be noticed by red or brown tinges - especially on dogs with light colored coats. Allergies can be seasonal and linked to allergens in the air like flower pollen, house dust and pollutants. It can also be from contact with triggers on the ground such as plants and floor polish. Ingested foods can also cause this, though this is less likely. I suggest a chat with your vet.
Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
Small victory
zim city
The latest green issues affecting our city. 50 | SAIKUNG.COM
A small win in a long war for country park enclaves
T
he Judge ruled in favour of the environmental activist Chan Ka Lam regarding the Board’s 2014 decision to reserve land for small houses in three country park enclaves: Hoi Ha, Pak Lap and So Lo Pun. He ruled that when the decision was made to set aside land for village type developments the Board (and Government) should consider justified genuine needs of indigenous villagers for development by indigenous villagers. It was shown that the Board had relied on information provided by the village representative regarding the potential number of male descendants who might apply for building Small Houses. The Judge decided that this information is not verified or verifiable and can’t be relied on as proof of genuine needs of indigenous villagers. Government should welcome this decision. It will strengthen its case against the ferocious appetite for ever more land for small house development. This court ruling will have wide implications for the Lands and Planning Departments. It has long been obvious to everyone in Hong Kong that small house development is mostly for sale to the market. The Lands Department condoned this by hiding behind the Small House Policy and guidelines set for them. In the future they will need to make serious inquiries and check information provided by the village leaders. The question now is whether zones for village house developments in other country park enclaves can be reduced. The test case is the Outline Zoning Plan for Tai Ho in Lantau. The plan for this last enclave to be zoned was ready to be submitted to the Chief Executive for (final) approval. But green groups quickly sent a letter after the judgment and ask for the Board to reconsider. They pointed out that the general planning intention for the Tai Ho area is to conserve the natural landscape and scientific and
Hoi Ha’s safe for another day
ecological values, such as the Tai Ho stream. Concerns were raised that the Small House demand figures were highly speculative and couldn’t prove or show the genuine needs of the indigenous villagers. This was particularly so as the number of past or pending applications had been nil or very small, and almost all land had been sold to developers. The green groups asked the Board to clarify how “the current extent of ‘V’ zones has struck a balance between natural conservation and respecting the rights of indigenous villagers for development”. After all, how can it come to such conclusion without a thorough analyses of the genuine need for small house development for and by the indigenous villagers? Right after the letter was sent, the Board rescheduled the submission of the Draft Tai Ho Outline Zoning Plan. We will see whether the Board will review the boundaries of areas reserved for village houses, and move them away from the streams and tributaries, given the deep concerns over the risks the developments pose to the conservation of the ecologically and environmentally sensitive areas. A small battle won in a long war.
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
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in marketplace the garden
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rap up warm my fellow gardeners as we head into Hong Kong’s coldest month of the year - the perfect time to use that wooly scarf you got for Christmas. Average low and high temperatures will hover at 14 °C (57 °F) and 19 °C (66 °F). January is also the driest month of the year so don’t forget to sufficiently water your garden. It’s time we give shrubs the attention they deserve. Cuttings of the following flowering shrubs may be made at the end of the month: Abelia chinesis, Allamandas, Berleria Cristatata, Beloperone oblongata, Buddleia asatica, Cassia bicapsularis. The following shrubs may be layered: Brufelsias, Ligustrum japonicum, Murraya exotica, Oxera pulchella, and Pittosporum Tobira. When layering remember to take off a ring of bark an inch or so long. Scrape the wood to make sure that none of the inner bark is left, and peg the shoot down into prepared soil which should be similar to that used for cuttings. Cuttings of the following creepers may now be put in: Beaumontia grandiflora, Bignonias Solanum Wendlandii, Hiptage madablota and Loniceras. Whereas the following may be pruned after sufficient cuttings have been taken off: Allamandas, Barleria cristata, Cassia bicapsularis, Clerodendrum nutans, Hibiscus, Lagerstroemia indica and Plumbago capensis. Seeds of the following vegetables may be sown - Mustard and Cress, Radish, Turnip, Chinese Spinach, French Beans, Peas, Cucumber, Lettuce, Tomato, Vegetable Marrow, Sweet Corn and Chinese Long Beans. Plant out young Cabbage, Endive and Lettuce plants and do remember to earth up Celery as required, previous to which give the beds a good watering. Tie up Cos Lettuce to blanch them, and put flower pots over Endive for the same purpose. Put in cuttings of Tomatoes, as plants raised in this way fruit earlier than those from seed. Fresh beds of Watercress may be made and finally pot on Heliotropes and Hydrangeas propagated last year into flowering pots. By William James Tutcher F.L.S (1867-1920) Superintendent of Hong Kong Botanical Gardens. Paraphrased from his seminal 1906 work Gardening for Hong Kong.
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New Year wishes
stephen says...
Sai Kung musings by Stephen Vines 56 | SAIKUNG.COM
New Year wishes – realistic and unrealistic Gosh, who knew that 2018 was going to come around quite so quickly! Well, now that it has, please accept all the usual new year’s greetings guff while I have a go at tackling the tedious business of making wishes for the coming year. As far as Sai Kung goes that might include the sudden eruption of a decent telecoms service from PCCW or maybe the FEHD will have a change of heart and consider redeploying its many clipboard officials away from the pressing duty of stamping out al fresco dining and put them onto tasks that are actually useful. Then there’s the hope of re-thinking rapacious plans for destroying the country parks by both the government and all those really wonderful Heung Yee Kuk folk. Yup, you guessed right, none of this is going to happen so something rather more modest might be in order. What I have in mind is this: Sai Kung has a unique place in Hong Kong. It’s streets are not filled with identical chain stores, most activity takes place at ground level, there is greenery, there are open spaces and we are blessed to still have the old town that remarkably remains pretty much unchanged. Moreover people in these parts tend to be friendly, the hectic pace of Hong Kong life is less evident here and there is a real sense of community. So my modest wish is just that we can keep all these elements in place – that ain’t asking too much, is it? It looks like a victory but maybe not The good news at the end of last year was that the High Court knocked back the development plans for enclaves in the Sai Kung Country Park at Hoi Ha, home to a marine park and Pak Lap with its wonderful beach. The court also passed judgment on another plan for So Lo Pun in the Plover Cove Country Park. Mr Justice Thomas Au Hing-cheung noted that the Town Planning Board used a seriously inaccurate map in reaching its original 2014 decision to permit so called indigenous village house building in these areas. Perhaps more importantly the judge ruled that the board had failed to properly consider the actual needs of the villagers prior to granting permission for these developments. This ruling highlights the careless manner in which the government has gone about its plans and the lamentable way it has simply taken
information, presumably supplied by the Kuk and its shadowy developer friends, at face value whereas it should have been far more vigorous in looking into this matter. The law, thankfully stands on the side of those who are not prepared to let the government get away with this. But it is not easy to take on powerful forces determined to destroy Hong Kong’s countryside. So we should be most grateful to the environment activist Chan Ka-lam who stepped in to launch this legal challenge after the planning board’s recommendations were endorsed by the Executive Council under the chairmanship of Leung Chun-ying two years ago. A challenge of this kind requires both cash and time and so cannot be lightly undertaken. However Mr Chan and his supporters cannot yet claim victory because at the time of writing it remains unclear whether the government will appeal this decision or simply come up with another plan to achieve the same goals. Meanwhile the government is beavering away on its even more scary plans to eat into other parts of the country parks for housing development. Schemed out in Sai Kung? I am still trying to get my head around plans to charge people for disposing of waste in the urban areas where there is household rubbish collection. It is more or less easy to see how this will work in the urban sector. But what about Sai Kung where in the rural areas residents take their rubbish to litter collection points that are somewhat removed from their homes? Who will be able to monitor either rubbish separation for re-cycling or indeed the amount of household litter deposited in these collection points? Maybe places like Sai Kung will simply not be included in the community waste fees scheme? Is that a good or bad thing?
Stephen Vines is a journalist, broadcaster and entrepreneur. He is the former editor of the Eastern Express and Southeast Asia correspondent for The Observer.
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