FAMILY | TRAVEL | HOME | MONKEY HILL
February 2019
Kung Hei Fat Choi Chinese New Year etiquette explained
259
Places
to take your Valentine
Bonnae Gokson HONG KONG’S SWEETHEART
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The really useful magazine February 2019
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EDITOR’S LETTER & Contributors
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SNAPPED! Southsider out and about
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THE PLANNER What’s on in February
11 BOOK NOW Things worth booking ahead for
12 MUST HAVE THIS MONTH Valentine’s day gift ideas
14 NEWS
44 TRAVEL Lapland adventures
48 ZIM CITY What to do with our 2,900 payphones
50 PETS
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Dr. Pauline answers your pet questions
51 WALKIES Where to walk your dog around the Southside
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52 SOUTHSIDE SECRETS The ghost of Eucliffe
What’s happening in our backyard
16 FIVE MINUTES WITH…
56 MRS. BACKFIRE Riders on the storm
Harbour Outdoors
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18 LOCAL Wild Boars in Southside
20 COVER STORY Inside the life of Hong Kong style icon, Bonnae Gokson
24 DINING Where to wine and dine this Valentines day
26 CNY SPECIAL Chinese New Year guide
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32 HEALTH & BEAUTY Couples massages in Hong Kong and afar
34 INTERVIEW Reshma Chugh, relationship counsellor
36 HOME AND LIVING A Mid-Levels family apartment
42 BIG DAY OUT Monkey madness in Kam Shan Country Park
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“THERE IS ALWAYS SOME MADNESS IN LOVE. BUT THERE IS ALSO ALWAYS SOME REASON IN MADNESS.” – FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE
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editor’s letter
W
ishing you all a healthy and prosperous Chinese New Year and wonderful Valentine’s Day!
Editorial
It has been a year since I became editor for Southside & the Peak magazine. Time has flown by and it’s been nothing short of a fabulous endeavor. As we see in the Chinese New Year I’ll be moving onto the role of Editor-in-chief at Hong Kong Living. As well as this, I am hoping to spend 2019 indulging in my many other creative passions. Talking of new endeavors, this month our managing editor Gemma Shaw talks with style icon and owner of Sevva, Bonnae Gokson following the release of her latest book, Weddings, Butterflies and the Sweetest Dreams (page 20). Kim Mai of Harbour 1976 talks interior styling over on page 16. And speaking of homes; as an expat I feel that home really is where the heart is, head to page 34 to read my interview with Southside resident and relationship expert Reshma Chugh. While on matters of the heart, brace yourself – from massages (page 32) to date nights (page 24), we’ve got you covered for the perfect Valentine’s night. Plus, see our guide to Chinese New Year etiquette and ideas for a great start to the Year of the Pig on page 26. Kung Hei Fat Choi to one and all!
Managing editor Gemma Shaw, gemma@hongkongliving.com Editor Vasavi Seethepalli, vasavi@hongkongliving.com Contributing editor Becky Love, becky@hongkongliving.com Nicole Slater, nicole@hongkongliving.com Editorial assistant Nicole Cooley, ncooley@hongkongliving.com Media assistant Jeramy Lee, jeramy@hongkongliving.com
Design
Design Coordinator Sonia Khatwani, sonia@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Alvin Cheng, alvin@hongkongliving.com
Events
Event executive Ran Chan, ran@hongkongliving.com
Sales & Marketing
Director of Partnerships Hilda Chan, hilda@hongkongliving.com Senior Sales & Marketing executive Isamonia Chui, isamonia@hongkongliving.com Sales & Marketing executive Corrie Tang, corrie@hongkongliving.com Mathew Cheung, mathew@hongkongliving.com
Operations
Assistant Operations Manager Charles Lau, charles@hongkongliving.com
Digital
Digital Editor Apple Lee, apple@hongkongliving.com
contributors
Publisher
Tom Hilditch, tom@hongkongliving.com
Thanks to Karin Bremer Rory Mackay Rachel Blundy
Holly Black Mikael Levin
Contact us Admin: 3568 3722 | Editorial: 2776 2773 | Advertising: 2776 2772 Published by Hong Kong Living Ltd, L1 Kai Wong Commercial Building, 222 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong
Apple Lee
Paul Zimmerman
Karin Bremer
How are you celebrating Chinese New Year?
How are you celebrating Chinese New Year?
How are you celebrating Chinese New Year?
“During Chinese New Year, I’ll pay visits to my relatives while getting red packets and indulging in festive nibbles on the way. My favourite treat to have during this time of the year has to be nian gao, a dessert pudding made with glutinous rice and brown sugar. Traditionally, it’s considered good luck to eat nian gao during the holidays because its name is a homonym for a “higher year”.
“Looking forward to the free time. I’m on a quest to hike every mountain peak of Hong Kong. It is a brilliant way to shed the calories added during the New Year celebrations. I might change my mind and fly the paraglider if the wind turns favourable. I wish everyone Kung Hei Fat Choy and a great Year of the Pig.”
I will be enjoying the break with my husband and children in the Japanese snow at the Club Med Sahoro. Skiing and snowboarding is something we all love and being active outdoors, followed by Japan’s amazing food and culture.
Want to write for Southside Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com 2 | SOUTHSIDE.HK
Printer Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong Cover by: Alvin
HONG KONG hongkongliving.com Southside Magazine is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Southside Magazine cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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people Snaps from Southside
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say cheese
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planner
FEB 12-17
Hong Kong Race Week Local and international competitors will descend upon Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club’s Middle Island clubhouse for one of the Club’s most exciting events of the year. Over 230 boats will compete over four race tracks! For more information (including how you can volunteer to help) visit hongkongraceweek.com
UNTIL FEB 17
Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai. kidsfest.com.hk
The AIA Great European Carnival Hong Kong’s annual winter fair. 11am 11pm. Adults $130 (includes entry and 10 tokens), Child (3-11) $90 (includes entry and 7 tokens), bundles available. Number of tokens required for each attraction vary. Central Waterfront Event Space, Central. tgec.asia
UNTIL FEB 24
Beyond Fashion - A Global Debut of a New Curation 100 remarkable photographs bridging art, fashion and food, from over 40 fashion photographers. Opens daily 10am. Free. ArtisTree, 1/F Cambridge House, Taikoo Place, King’s Road 979, Quarry Bay. taikooplace.com
FEB 1 UNTIL FEB 17 KidsFest 2019
KidsFest continues into February with old favourites such as The Tiger Who Came to Tea, We’re Going on a Bear Hunt and The Gruffalo that even adults will love. Times vary. Tickets from $195. The Hong Kong
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Fashion Sewing and Pattern Making Workshop A fantastic chance to learn to sew! Designerooms offer technical support and tutorials to help you with your creative projects. Beginners welcome. $35 per hour. Designerooms, Unit A2, 9/F, Ka Wing Factory Building, 19-21 Ng Fong Street, San Po Kong. facebook.com/designerooms
happening in February FEB 2
Motorino Pizza Making Party
Butterfly Beach, Lung Fu Road, Tuen Mun. hksharkfoundation.org
Slip your apron on and make your own Neapolitan pies with a hands on lesson from professional chefs and enjoy wine and antipasti throughout the afternoon. From 3pm. $248 + $58 for free flow prosecco or wine. 15 Ship Street, Wan Chai. motorinopizza.com
bakers will teach you to bake sweet treats to share with your loved ones during this three hour workshop. 1-4pm. $680. The Mixing Bowl, 23/F, The Pemberton, No. 22-26, Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan. hongkongliving.com/shop
FEB 14
Valentines Day Don’t forget the roses!
FEB 14, 21 FEB 9
Harrow International School Hong Kong Open Mornings
The seventh annual race, consisting of two trails, Tough Love with a distance of 14km and Easy Love with a distance of 9km. Both races start and finish at Treasure Island on Pui O Beach races begin at 9.15am. $498 per team. thetrailhub.com
Prospective parents and students can meet staff, view facilities and interact with current pupils. Feb 21 for ages 2-9 and Feb 14 for ages 10-16. 8.45-11am. Register online. Harrow International School, 38 Tsing Ying Road, Tuen Mun, New Territories. harrowschool.hk
Faust’s Chinese New Year Programmes
FEB 10
FEB 15-16
For ages 4-13. Faust International Youth Theatre has innovative drama and creative writing programs. Early bird prices: $790 for 1 day; $1,610 for 3 days. Faust Studio, 5/F Nan Dao Commercial Building, 359 & 361 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan. faustworld.com
Free outdoor and arts event with creative workshops, music, dance and a handicraft workshop. Art Park, West Kowloon. westkowloon.hk
FEB 5-7
Kung Hei Fat Choi! Public holiday lasting 3 days. Welcome in the Year of the Pig.
Play sessions at Nord Anglia International Pre-schools run by UK-qualified teaching staff in bespoke pre-school learning environments. For ages 2.5-3.5 years. 3-4pm. Registration online. nais.hk/freeplayfebruary
FEB 6, 13, 20, 27
FEB 12
Valentine’s Day Race
FEB 4, 7-9
Chinese New Year
Lululemon New Town Plaza Run Club Join in the 8km fun run along the Shing Man River followed by a circuit workout at Sha Tin Sports Ground. Every Wednesday in February from 7.30-9pm. Free. eventbrite.hk
Freespace Happening
FEB 11, 18, 25
Free Play Sessions at Nord Anglia International School
Valentines Baking Masterclass Hong Kong Living’s first ever cake baking/ chocolate making workshop. Professional
Swire Denim Series - Philip Glass’ David Bowie The Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra play Philip Glass’ Heroes Symphony, a tribute to the late David Bowie, with an opener written by Radiohead’s Jonny Greenwood and additional pieces used in the films, The Revenant and The Hunger Games. Tickets from $120. Tsuen Wan Town Hall Auditorium, 72 Tai Ho Road, Tseun Wan. hkphil.org
FEB 15-17
Longines Masters of Hong Kong One of the most prestigious equestrian events in the world. Admission to the Prestige Village is free. Tickets for competition sessions $200-$980, family and concessionary tickets available as well
FEB 8-9
Lea Salonga: The Voice of Broadway Broadway diva Lea Salonga returns to Hong Kong with songs from popular musicals such as Once On This Island, Miss Saigon and Disney’s Frozen. Tickets from $280. Hong Kong Cultural Centre Concert Hall, Tsim Sha Tsui. hkphil.org
FEB 9
Hong Kong Shark Foundation Beach Clean-Up Get the family together and join in the Butterfly Beach Clean Up to raise awareness about shark conservation. 2-4pm. A donation of $100 includes a t-shirt, pair of gloves and clean up bags.
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planner as premium VIP packages. AsiaWorld Expo, Airport Expo Boulevard, Chek Lap Kok. longinesmasters.com/en
Circle, 1 Yau Cheung Road, Southwest Kowloon. malvernpreschool.hk
FEB 23
Fairchild Junior Academy Open House Visit the Reggio Emilia inspired campus and talk to educators while children enjoy sensory play activities! 2-5pm. 22/F Park Commercial Centre, 180 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tin Hau. fairchild.academy
FEB 23
Sai Kung 50 Trail running and hiking across Sai Kung. Distances of 12km, 22km or 50km. Start and finish at Pak Tam Chung, Sai Kung. Shuttle Buses available. $480-$730 to enter. actionasiaevents.com
Chinese New Year Events UNTIL FEB 5
Chinese New Year Flower Markets Located across Hong Kong with the biggest market taking place at Victoria Park, Hing Fat Street, Causeway Bay.
UNTIL FEB 24
Lunar New Year Thematic Lantern Display Enjoy the beautiful lantern displays at Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront, with this year’s theme Glittering Peacocks in Full Bloom.
FEB 5
The Cathay Pacific International Chinese New Year Night Parade Watch the show along Canton Road, Haiphong Road and Nathan Road in TST at 8pm.
FEB 15-17
The Great Gatsby Performed by the Hong Kong Ballet, enter the glamorous world of New York high society. Times vary. Tickets from $140. Lyric Theatre, The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai. hkballet.com
FEB 21 - 24
Peter Pan & Wendy Faust International Youth Theatre presents, Peter Pan & Wendy on stage. Various times. Tickets from $240. Shouson Theatre, Hong Kong Theatre Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, Wan Chai. faustworld.com
FEB 21-MAR 23
Hong Kong Arts Festival All genres of performing arts are represented in this month-long programme. Times, prices and locations vary. hk.artsfestival.org/en
FEB 22-24
Vegetarian Food Asia 2019 Learn more about a healthy and sustainable vegetarian lifestyle. Feb 22-23, 10:30am7:30pm free; Feb 24, 11am-8pm $20. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. vegfoodasia.com
FEB 23
Malvern College Pre-School Hong Kong Open Day The theme will be ‘Reading Around the World’ to encourage children to discover and to share the joys of reading. Dress up is welcomed! 1-4pm. Malvern College Pre-School Hong Kong, G9-12, Coronation
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FEB 5-21
Hong Kong Well-Wishing Festival
FEB 23-24
Refresh and Recharge Workshop with Greta Lai
Be a part of a long established tradition and make a wish at The Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees, a popular shrine located in Fong Ma Po village near to Tai Po.
FEB 6
Greta Lai presents this two day workshop on healthy eating and yoga to revive body, mind and spirit. 10am. $1,993. Pure Yoga Starstreet Precinct, 3-19 Wing Fung Street, Starstreet Precinct, Wan Chai. allnood. com/workshops
Chinese New Year firework display
FEB 23 & MAR 2
Chinese New Year race day
Living with Joy and Peace: A Meditation Workshop with Heidi Poon Two weekend workshops to help discover how to find a moment of peace and quiet during the fast-paced life of Hong Kong. 9.30am-1.30pm. $2,250. Pure Yoga, 25/f Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Road, Kwun Tong. pure-yoga.com/hongkong
FEB 24
Therapeutic Forest Bathing Experience Spend time in nature in the area of Lung Fu Shan to enhance your health, wellness, and happiness. Amanda Yik is a Certified Nature and Forest Therapy Guide and will lead the experience. 10am-12.30pm. $300. yogaroomhk.com
Watch Victoria Harbour light up with Hong Kong’s biggest firework display at 8pm.
FEB 7
Strike it lucky on the first races of the year at Sha Tin Racecourse starting at 11am. The Hong Kong Jockey Club Sha Tin Racecourse Stand, Sha Tin.
FEB 16-19
Lunar New Year Lantern Carnivals Spectacular lantern displays and traditional performances across various locations. 7.30-9.30pm. Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, North District Park, Tin Shui Wai Park and Ginza Square.
planner
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happening in February
BOOK NOW navigation. Designed for teams of four with two course options including a Challenge route at 16km or Elite route at 20km. Register online at fringebacker.com/ en/event/outward-bound-adventurerace-2019
best-loved comedian, Jimmy Carr, brings The Best of Ultimate Gold Greatest Hits Tour along with new material. 8pm. Tickets from $488. Kowloonbay International Trade & Exhibition Centre, Kowloon. hkticketing.com
MAR 28
Pet Shop Boys Successful British duo, Pet Shop Boys, bring The Super Tour to Asia, featuring their latest album Super alongside their greatest hits, including ‘Always on My Mind’ and ‘West End Girls’. 8pm. Tickets from $588. AsiaWorld Expo, Airport Expo Blvd, Chek Lap Kok. hkticketing.com
MAR 10
FIA Formula E Hong Kong E-Prix The FIA Formula E Championship combines environmental friendliness with entertaining motorsports races, whilst participants can enjoy additional interactive activities and competitions. 7am - 7pm. Adults $2,880 and Concessions $1,440. hkformulae.com
MAR 10
APR 17-18 Ed Sheeran
Outward Bound Adventure Race
MAR 27
A race with a mixture of trail running, kayaking, swimming and tactical
Rescheduled from September, British
Jimmy Carr
British-born Ed Sheeran, one of the world’s best selling music artists, is coming to Hong Kong as part of his world tour. From $888. Fantasy Road Outdoor Venue, Disneyland. hkticketing.com
Got an event? We can publish the details. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
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must have this month
L’Amour necklace $7,953 from Kristina Rybaltchenko Hong Kong rybaltchenko.com
The Badass box $500 from Bydeau bydeau.com
My happy greeting card $45 from Kikki-K kikki-k.com
FOREO UFO $2,280 from Foreo Counter at Lane Crawford lanecrawford.com
Essenza mini ruby red coffee machine $988 from Nespresso nespresso.com/hk
The perfect gifts to impress this Valentine’s Day
Talisman bracelet $150-$500 from Premices Facebook: Premices
Personalised top-grain leather iPhone case $360 from Kulör Cases kulorcases.com
Crystalline toasting flutes $3,200 from Swarovski swarovski.com
The Kiss Quotient by Helen Huang $150 from Bookazine bookazine.com.hk
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Chocolate box $450 from Sweet Fashion House sweetfashionhouse.com
woo your boo
Mikmax mulberry silk pillowcase set $1,750 from Lane Crawford lanecrawford.com
Dreamy night hamper $1,149 from Gifthampers gifthampers.com.hk
Charlotte Tilbury goddess cleansing ritual $370 from Lane Crawford lanecrawford.com Jardin d’Eden candelabra $30,400 from Christofle christofle.com
Overose scented candles $560 each from Lane Crawford lanecrawford.com
Idole de Christofle silver ring $3,680 from Christofle christofle.com Valentine’s cards $40 each from Cha Siu Papers chasiupapers.com
LK Skincare day cream $500 from LK SKINCARE LIMITED lkskincare.com
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Photo credit: Wikimedia Commons
news
Stanley’s Maryknoll House to be demolished Previously a Hong Kong block for Catholic missionaries, the developer of the historic Maryknoll House has been given the go-ahead to turn the block into luxury flats. The 83-yearold building at 44 Stanley Village Road will have some of its important historic features preserved, with the rest being partly altered or demolished to make way for the low-rise residential complex. The planning application
received over 200 negative comments from the public, with some suggesting that the site should retain its religious use or be turned into a school or market, or a place for the homeless. Those that supported the demolition felt that the change could breathe new life into an old building. A completion date has not yet been set for the luxury flats.
Eligible age for CSSA raised to 65
Man cuts sleeping woman’s hair on bus to Aberdeen A woman was travelling on a bus from Kowloon Bay to Wah Kwai Estate in Aberdeen when she woke up distressed after finding that a man who was sitting behind her had cut her hair. It is believed the elderly man found her long hair annoying as it hung down the back of the seat so he decided to take matters into his own hands. The man was arrested on January 13 for assault.
Buyer walks away from $36 million deposit on luxury house An unidentified buyer has forfeited a 5% deposit towards the purchase of a luxury house in one of Asia’s most expensive residential districts. House No. 16 at Mount Nicholson was listed for sale last year complete with private garden, rooftop and swimming pool. It sold to the highest bidder on December 31 for $721,88m, at the unit price of $90,484 per square foot, there were two other bidders.
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The selling price was 7% cheaper than that of House No. 17, which is similar and sold in April for $97,695 per square foot. Since launching the Mount Nicholson project two and a half years ago, 13 of the 19 houses have been sold, this being the first case of forfeiture. The buyer, who is a Hong Kong identity card holder has so far given no comment on the decision to walk away from the sale.
Following review of the improved life expectancy of the Hong Kong population, the Social Welfare Department has announced that the eligible age for elderly Comprehensive Social Security Assistance will be adjusted from 60 to 65 from February 1 this year. Those who have received the elderly CSAA before February 1 and are aged between 60 and 64 will not be affected. A spokesperson for the Social Welfare Department said, “an additional expenditure of $1.253 billion per year will be incurred for the adjustment, benefiting some 1.26 million recipients of the two schemes.”
in your backyard
Hong Kong to host the first Asian Beach Korfball World Cup 2019 From March 9-10, Repulse Bay will play host to Hong Kong’s first edition of the International Korfball Federation (IKF) Beach World Cup in Asia. The event will accommodate two main categories; the Open Group and the University Group. The Open Group will compete for the IKF World Cup title while the University Group participants will play under the official IKF-recognised competition. The Open Group competition will commence at 8am on March 9 with participants from China, Thailand, Taipei and Hong Kong taking part. The games are organised by the Hong Kong China Korfball Federation. korfball.sport/event/ikf-beachkorfball-world-cup-asia-2019
Public transport Gleneagles new health fare subsidy screening clinic diagnostic imaging, eye check-ups, cardiac assessment and dietetic consultations. Upon completion, the patient will receive a detailed check-up report with appropriate referral and treatment services. gleneagles.hk
As of February 16, people who use their Octopus card when commuting may be eligible for subsidy collection. The new public transport fare subsidy scheme allows anyone with public transport expenses exceeding $400 per month a subsidy of 25% of the total expenses, subject to a maximum of $300 per month. Commuters can collect the public transport fare subsidy of the previous month by tapping their Octopus through subsidy collection points, via all outlets of 7-Eleven, Circle-K and Wellcome supermarkets, the Octopus app or Octopus service points. The subsidy is credited back to the Octopus automatically. More information on the scheme can be found at ptfss.gov.hk
Photo credit: km30192002
Caption: Image via the MTR website
Gleneagles now offers a variety of comprehensive health check packages in order to provide prevention, detection and treatment of medical conditions. Their services include physician’s examinations, blood tests,
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five minutes with
Kim kicking back in the showroom
Kim Mai Showroom Manager at Harbour 1976 talks modernism, and her love of homewares and interiors My love for homewares and interiors was a natural evolution from fashion. As a fashion designer, I was drawn to the idea of what’s surrounding the space of our daily lives and how that fits together with your own style. After I designed the coffee table in our living room and all the elements came together, I was hooked. To me, the furniture in your house or apartment is what makes up the skeleton of the home. It makes for the foundation of the memories of our everyday lives. If you invest in quality pieces, they will follow you as you move through different phases of your life - into new spaces. I moved here with my husband Paul in 2016 to set up the first Harbour 1976 Asia flagship showroom in Hong Kong. It’s been amazing living here. I love the energy of Hong Kong, there’s always something happening. The message through the design of the
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furniture at Harbour 1976 is very clear and never strays. Laid back, clean, strong, modern and minimal with an emphasis on quality of the make. What sets us apart is that we are a family-owned, Australian lifestyle brand who have been in the business for over 40 years. The Condos family has kept everything in-house, from developing materials, designing, manufacturing and distribution - which is rare to find these days. If I had to choose one piece of furniture to invest in, it would be a great sofa. It’s important to make sure the pieces that take the most wear on a daily basis are of high quality. I love our Bondi sofa range, named after one of the most famous beaches in Sydney. This collection really embodies the laid back luxurious energy of Bondi Beach. It’s amazingly comfortable and lends a relaxed-yet-elegant feel to any space whilst holding its own as a statement piece in Belgium linen.
I love modernism - less is more! I think personal style is always more important than trends - however keeping a balance and updating your pieces will ensure your surroundings constantly stay fresh and inspired. One of my favourite spots in Hong Kong is Limewood in Repulse bay. The vibe is great (and the food!) It is also dog friendly, you can sit along one side of the low windows, right next to your pooch who can be tied out the front, right on the other side of the window. Do I think luxury can be achieved on a budget? Absolutely. My advice is less is more - by removing unnecessary clutter you can instantly clear the energy of a space and attention is drawn to the hero pieces. What is your motto? Life is short, buy the shoes!
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Photo credit: Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department
local
Southside Hogs Wild pigs take over Southside
T
he Year of the Pig has arrived, in more sense than one. The Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD) recently reported that the Southern District held the record for the most sightings / nuisance reports of wild pigs during the first ten months of 2018. 173 sightings were reported in the area, with a total of 679 sightings throughout Hong Kong. According to AFCD records, nuisance of wild pigs in the Southern District is largely due to feeding and improper disposal of garbage, which attracts wild pigs to feed in the built-up areas. In order to alleviate the potential nuisance caused by wild pigs in residential areas more effectively, the AFCD is conducting a comprehensive review on the measures and strategies for the management of wild pigs. AFCD plans to adopt a multipronged approach, namely managing wild pig’s nuisance and monitoring wild pig population, reducing food attraction and strengthening public education
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to remind the public not to feed wild animals (including wild pigs) with a view to relieving wild pigs’ nuisance to the public. The AFCD launched a CaptureContraception-Release / Relocation Programme (Programme) of wild pigs in Hong Kong in late 2017. Under the Programme, the AFCD will provide contraceptive treatment to suitable wild pigs which are used to being fed by humans and frequent nearby residential areas, and relocate them to the countryside away from residential areas. As of December 2018, 23 operations had been arranged in the Southern District. The AFCD conducted contraceptive treatment for 31 wild pigs and 66 wild pigs were relocated to remote countryside. The AFCD will monitor the groups of wild pigs covered by the Programme and conduct a comprehensive review on the effectiveness of the Programme when sufficient data has been obtained. If a wild pig is found to be causing nuisance to the public, members of the
public may call 1823 to notify AFCD for necessary follow-up actions or advice. When a wild pig poses immediate threats to life and property, police should be notified by calling 999 for urgent assistance.
What to do if you encounter a wild pig in an urban area • Do not feed the wild pigs • Keep calm, stay away and leave the wild pigs undisturbed • Do not approach any wild pigs, including piglets • Do not attempt to drive the wild pigs away as it is dangerous to provoke them • Hide behind barriers such as parapets or fences and wait until the wild pigs leave before you proceed • Keep dogs under control
community spirit
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cover story
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Bonnae Gokson
Following the release of her second book, Bonnae Gokson shares on success, style, and spirituality with Gemma Shaw
T
here’s not much that stands in the way of the incredibly charming and endearing entrepreneur and style icon, Bonnae Gokson. We catch up at the flower-filled launch of her second book; Weddings, Butterflies and the Sweetest Dreams, hosted at her ever-popular fine dining restaurant, SEVVA. The launch is packed with unspeakably glamorous celebrities and socialites and Gokson effortlessly glides across the room thanking friends and industry contacts for showing up. “Oh darling, how wonderful to see you” she exclaims as she spots me. As happy as I am that she recognises me, I immediately feel immensely underdressed in comparison. Nonetheless, I make the most of my opportunity quickly explaining that she, complete with her big heart and love of all things sweet, would be perfect for our February cover, “Darling, I’d be honoured” she smiles before being whisked away to begin her book signing. Renowned for her innate creativity and impeccable taste and style, Bonnae Gokson is officially recognised as one of “China’s Top 100 Outstanding Women”. She is Former Regional Chief of Image & Communications for Chanel Asia Pacific, and was instrumental in the establishment of the JOYCE Group, assisting its founder and her sister, Joyce Ma, through the initial years to create what is now a fashion and retail powerhouse in Hong Kong. In 2007, Gokson secured the penthouse of Prince’s Building and turned it into fine dining establishment, Sevva. The world-renowned restaurant has attracted a celebrity following with fans including Jennifer Lopez. A few years later, Gokson turned her hand to baking
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cover story
Excerpts from the new book
launching dedicant cake shop, Ms B Bakery on Gough Street in 2011. In 2014, Gokson published her first book, Butterflies and all things Sweet and was named “Queen of Cakes” by The New York Times. Following the success of the book, she quickly set about another and towards the end of 2018 Weddings, Butterflies and the Sweetest Dreams was released. Her new book is dedicated to those who appreciate imagination, beauty and love in all its forms, revealing beautiful weddings across the world which are complemented with bespoke cakes curated by Gokson herself. “Image is everything” she tells me when we meet at her chic café bar, C’est la B at One Pacific Place, “the way you present yourself is your story to the world.” Now there is an excuse to go shopping, if I ever did need one. But what may sound superficial at first actually has a very spiritual roots. Gokson went through a Kabbalah formation a few
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years ago. “That was when changed my name from Bonnie to Bonnae” she says. “I am spiritual and very holistic. In business I am always true to myself. Everything is a cycle and I believe in God.”
another “v” to my restaurant’s name “SEVVA” because our tag line is “savour the moment”. (FYI, pronounce it “savour”.) Bonnae has lived in Hong Kong, Australia, Paris to name a few. “I was fortunate enough to be born into a very well-established family, and I will always be grateful for that. My daddy spoiled me, I could twist him around my little finger and my sister (Joyce Ma, founder of Joyce Boutique) is like my ‘Auntie Mame’, my best friend and my mommy.” “When I lived in Paris I went into Coco Chanel’s apartment, it reminded me of going up to see Auntie Daphne’s penthouse flat in our home in Stanley. She adds, “Chanel was a Leo, I myself am a Leo; her lucky number was five, my multiples of lucky numbers include five. I said to Joyce, ‘Hey, it’s like I’m living in her spirit’.”
This is reflected throughout her businesses. “Seva” is Sanskrit for “selfless service”. At Ashrams I do seva in the kitchens. It is living a life that is a benefit to others. I added
Hong Kong is her home. “I love Hong Kong. I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else in the world. If you want to get something done here, you can do it, fast.”
Bonnae Gokson How a style icon was made 1907
Bonnae’s grandfather from Shanghai founded Wing On department stores
1931
Bonnae’s family found the Wing On Bank
1950s Bonnae’s auntie Daphne is Hong Kong’s version of Coco Chanel (she dates Cary Grant, loves big chandeliers, hosts the era’s greatest parties). She is an early influence on Bonnae 1970’s Joyce Ma, Bonnae’s older sister, launches JOYCE Boutique at their family department store, Wing On and at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel thereafter 1980’s Bonnae joins JOYCE and was mentored by her sister in luxury retail. She became buyer and visual merchandiser of many luxury fashion and lifestyle brands
But Gokson knows that creativity takes time and her latest book has been ever so carefully curated meaning years in the making. With foreword by Vera Wang, world-renowned couture wedding gown designer, and Iris Apfel, iconic fashion industry personality, alongside contributions from an amazing team of professionals, this book is a visual feast, exploring couture wedding celebrations in a completely fresh and unexpected manner. “I want to try to show you here, through my wedding cakes, a little more of how my mind works, and the kind of things that I find inspiring. But more than anything, I want to celebrate individuality and love in all its different forms. I’m very lucky to be able to create beautiful things that put a smile on people’s face, nothing makes me happier than witnessing the pleasure I can give to others. That’s the joy of it all to me.” And does she have any
1990’s Bonnae was asked to conceptualise for JOYCE Cafes. She opened five restaurants in Hong Kong, Taipei and Bangkok 1992
1993
1997
Launches Bonnae Gokson Productions. Brings top acts to Hong Kong, including Natalie Cole and Kenny G. Throughout the 90’s Bonnae is a star of Hong Kong’s social world Launches Bonnae Gokson Creative Concepts. Opens (at last count) 45 fashion, lifestyle and homeware stores for the group CHANEL ASIA PACIFIC announces Bonnae Gokson to be their Regional Chief of Image and Communications for their brand
2000’s Became the creative ‘eye’ and Director of Design and Arts for W and Ritz-Carlton
baking tips? “I actually don’t bake at all, I once made a banana cake, it was awful!” She exclaims. “What I do is edit, I have always been able edit with my eyes. I know what looks good and how things should be. I combine talent with my chefs who have skills but may not have extensive exposure and we work together as a team. I know about how things
2004
Bonnae decides on a break and quits Chanel
2005- Bonnae took a sabbatical with 2007 more exciting travels 2007
Bonnae secures the penthouse of Prince’s Building and worked on the decor of the future SEVVA
2011
Launches Ms B Bakery of Gough Street
2012
SCMP names Bonnae The Woman of our Time
2014
Her first coffee table book Butterflies and All Things Sweet wins three international awards
2016
Debrett’s 100 Most Influential
2017
ELLE LEGEND AWARD
2018
Published her new coffee table book, Weddings, Butterflies and the Sweetest Dreams
should be and I am insistent on quality.” For Gokson it’s in the detail. “Tiny details go a long way. For example, the red color you see in our cakes comes from beetroot, other bakeries would simply use food colouring.” These details can be seen throughout the book. Following her first book release, Oprah Winfrey congratulated her. On that Gokson smiles, “My books are playful. With all the bad news in the world, wouldn’t you rather spend your time looking at something happy?” Never a truer statement was said. Weddings, Butterflies and the Sweetest Dreams is available to buy at C’est La B in Pacific Place, SEVVA, Prince’s Building and at Ms B’s CAKERY, various locations including 39 Gough Street, Central.
With Vivienne Tam at book launch
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dining
Where to wine and dine your loved one this Valentine’s day
ALTO Nothing will wow your partner more than a prime steak, fine wine and a fantastic view of Victoria Harbour. This luxurious dining room was designed by Tom Dixon Design Studio, with sapphire blue velvet chairs and Dixon’s signature hanging pendant lights. After dinner, head up to the rooftop bar on the 31st floor and cozy up with a glass of bubbly. 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay. diningconcepts/com/restaurants/ALTO
The Verandah If you are looking to impress your date, a seaside dinner usually does the trick. Perched directly above the Repulse Bay beach, The Verandah boasts knockout views of the lapping waters and palm trees that sway in the breeze. Inside the restaurant, arched windows and high wooden ceiling evoke a continental aura. For Valentine’s Day, there is a lunch semi-buffet and set dinner menu with vegetarian options available. 109 Repulse Bay Road, Repulse Bay. therepulsebay.com
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olive you Impress your date Taste wine like a professional with founder and CEO JeanLoup Thomazo of Natural Food & Beverages
Wooloomooloo Steakhouse Steak is about as classic a dish as it gets for a romantic date with your special someone. It is huge, hearty and can make any dining occasion feel like an elaborate celebration. Set on the rooftop of The Hennessy, Wooloomooloo Steakhouse has an open terrace offering sweeping views of Victoria Harbour on one side and the Happy Valley Racecourse on the other. Known for its premium Australian steaks, you can count on the restaurant to deliver a consistently satisfying dining experience. 31/F & Rooftop The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai. wooloo-mooloo.com
Tokio Joe Tokio Joe is the perfect spot for a lowkey date night that is not completely devoid of romance. Sitting near the top of the Lan Kwai Fong slope, the cosy Japanese joint has been open for more than 20 years. The restaurant is an old-time favourite among locals. Returning customers speak highly of the impeccable service and the friendly but intimate atmosphere. 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central. tokiojoe.com
1. First, use your eyes. Wine speaks through colour. The deeper the colour, the stronger the wine. You can apply this rule to all the colours (red, white and rosé). The colour can also indicate the age. An old red wine will be clearer. 2. The Smell. Before you smell, gently move the wine up the glass with a tip or swirl to release flavours. You will slowly discover the aromas of your wine, such as fruits, flowers, candies, spices, veggies and wood. 3. The taste. Keep the wine in your mouth for a moment and delicately play with it. The target is to enjoy the full flavour of the wine, which will generally be one of four families: bitter, sweet, acidic or salty. Then, enjoy! Find out more about natural and organic wines at natural-fnb.com
Amigo Opened in 1976 by owner Yeung Wing Chung, this French restaurant in Happy Valley is a Hong Kong institution. The quaint interior – from the deep burgundy carpet to exposed ceiling beams – compliments the oldworld charisma of Amigo. Restaurant staff are dressed in tuxedos and serve guests from a traditional trolly. There is a band of guitarists taking song requests. With an intimate setting, impeccable food and service, Amigo checks all the boxes for a romantic night out. Amigo Mansion, 79A Wong Nai Chung Rd, Happy Valley. amigo.com.hk
Mama Malouf For a casual dinner date that is not over-the-top cheesy, indulge in a Lebanese feast at Mama Malouf. The Middle Eastern kitchen serves a range of mezze, skewers and falafels to share with your boo. G/F, 93 Catchick Street, Kennedy Town. mamamalouf.hk
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story incover the know
Kung Hei Fat Choi!
Chinese New Year festivities and etiquette explained
8
Top things to do
J
ust when you thought the celebrations were over, think again! On Februrary 5 we welcome the Year of the Pig. Lunar New Year festivities are among the most important of all the Chinese holidays, family dinners and celebrations are common, and if you’re lucky you’ll receive some money!
What’s the story? The Chinese calendar is arranged around 12 Zodiac animals. Mythology states that Buddha organised a grand race inviting all the animals in the kingdom. On race day only 12 animals showed up. They were all awarded a place on the Chinese Zodiac calendar, according to their position in the race - the pig came in last!
8
Clean up
Homes are thoroughly cleaned in the run up to Lunar New Year. Dust is swept into the middle of the room and out the door to symbolise sweeping away the bad luck. Going one step further, some homeowners paint door frames and windows in order to welcome in good luck. Bear in mind that it is considered bad luck to clean during the week of New Year as you may sweep away the good fortune – so get your home in order before February 5.
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7
Visit a flower market
Brace the crowds, visit one of Hong Kong’s many flower markets and buy some flowers to brighten up your home during the Lunar New Year. Victoria Park plays host to the biggest new year flower market in Hong Kong, the market attracts thousands of visitors each year. Among top buys are orange trees because large oranges are believed to bring good luck. Visitors can also pick up decorations, homeware items and souvenirs. Victoria Park flower market runs until February 5. Victoria Park, 1 Hing Fat Street, Causeway Bay. Top tip: Jostle with the crowds on the last day of the markets to pick up a bargain when prices are vastly reduced.
kung hei fat choi $100 as a generous gift to someone you care about. This is generally the minimum a boss gives an employee. $500 plus – this is not unheard of, but it is usually given with a good motive such as birthdays or weddings around this time.
2
Win big at the races
On February 7, strike it lucky at the first races of the year. Hopeful punters descend on the course with the first races of the day starting from 11am. The Hong Kong Jockey Club, Sha Tin racecourse stand, Sha Tin. hkjc.com
6
Watch a night parade
The Cathay Pacific International Chinese New Year Night Parade has been a highlight of the season in Hong Kong February for over 20 years. This year the parade will take place on the evening of February 5 and will feature spectacular floats, marching bands, cheerleaders and dance troupes along the streets of Tsim Sha Tsui. Free-standing spectators can watch the show along Canton Road, Haiphong Road and Nathan Road. Ticketed spectator stands open from 7pm and tickets are not available online but can be bought from the Hong Kong Tourism Board Visitor Centre, Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui. February 5, 8pm-9.45pm
5
5
Buy an mandarin tree
Mandarins symbolise abundant happiness, while tangerines with the leaves attached symbolise a secure relationship between giver and receiver, making them popular gifts during the Lunar New Year. Many homes are adorned with potted kumquat trees, studded with tiny orange fruit that symbolises prosperity and good fortune. The fruit’s Chinese name, kam gat shu, sounds like the words for ‘luck’ and ‘gold’. Attach the fruit to red lai see packets containing a banknote for a really authentic touch. Bear in mind that the trees are grown more for aesthetic appeal than for great-tasting fruit.
4
Watch the fireworks
Grab a great spot along the harbour or book a rooftop dinner to catch the amazing annual firework display. Fireworks and firecrackers are believed to scare away evil spirits, so expect a spectacular display. The fireworks usually take place on the second day of the Lunar New Year above Victoria Harbour. February 6, 8pm. Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade.
3
1
Visit the Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees
A visit to the Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees at this time of year is thought to bring good luck. Traditionally joss paper was tied to an orange and thrown into the tree in an attempt to hang it from a high branch to bring good luck. Wooden frames currently support the trees while they undergo recovery but they remain open to visitors. Free admission. Take bus 64K or 64P from Tai Po Market station and get off at Fang Ma Po.
Give Lai See
‘Lai see’ are lucky red envelopes filled with banknotes and traditionally given during the 15 days following Lunar New Year (this year, from February 5-20.) Married people are expected to give lai see to younger, single relatives, colleagues and those in the service industry. $20 for an acquaintance you see regularly but don’t know well, such as a doorman. $50 for someone close to you such as friends’ children or your hairdresser.
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special feature
Lunar New Year horoscopes What does the Year of the Pig have in store for you?
Year: 1960, 1972, 1984, 1996, 2008 Positivity is your theme for 2019, just relax and appreciate the little things in life and you’ll have a year full of happiness and prosperity!
Year: 1963, 1975, 1987, 1999, 2011 Push your shyness and wariness away this year and you’ll open up doors for new friendships and if you’re still on the hunt for love, possible romantic partners.
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Year: 1961, 1973, 1985, 1997, 2009 2019 will bring great opportunities your way, take advantage of your luck and your bank account will be grateful!
Year: 1964, 1976, 1988, 2000, 2012 Taking inspiration from the pig’s calm ways this year, it’s time to reflect and reconsider any big life changes you are about to make.
Year: 1962, 1974, 1986, 1998, 2010 Although the most independent of all the zodiac signs, this year it’s time to be more social and focus on how you interact and get along with others.
Year: 1965, 1977, 1989, 2001, 2013 You can’t always get what you want so if you want to hit your goals this year, you’re going to have to flight for them!
in the know Calligraphy 101 - Look out for these auspicious characters and phrases. Luck, prosperity
Happiness
Year: 1966, 1978, 1990, 2002, 2014
Happy New Year
Year: 1967, 1979, 1991, 2003, 2015
Prosperous New Year
Year: 1968, 1980, 1992, 2004, 2016
After a tough 2018, expect your luck to change. With success around every corner you’ll soon forget about your previous troubles.
Set your ambiousions high this year, as you’re in for a lucky one! - whether it’s in your career, love life or health, prepare for some exciting news.
Make a conscious effort to take more chances this year. The world is your oyster, so step outside of your comfort zone and start living!
Year: 1957, 1969, 1981, 1993, 2005, 2017
Year: 1958, 1970, 1982, 1994, 2006, 2018
Year: 1959, 1971, 1983, 1995, 2007, 2019
It’s important to focus on your relationships this year, whether it’s romantic, family or friendships, the people around you have a big effect on your life!
It’s time for you to stop relying on others and start fighting your own battles! If you want to succeed it’s up to you to put more effort into your progress.
2019 is all about you piggy! Make this year yours by setting goals and getting to work and you’ll see positive results in no time.
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health body and & soul beauty
Romantic couples massages Don’t fancy giving your loved one a massage? Treat yourself and your valentine with a couples massage The Peninsula Spa Overlook Hong Kong’s spectacular skyline from the comfort of your own private spa suite. The Peninsula Spa offers a Time Together wellness journey for two which includes a two hour body massage, Oriental Head Massage and a whirlpool bath, with full use of the hotel’s Romanstyle swimming pool. The experience also includes a light and healthy breakfast or lunch by the pool. The Peninsula Spa, 7/F The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Kowloon. peninsula.com
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Glam up for Valentine’s day Flutter your eyelashes this Valentine’s day with Novalash lash extensions. Lashes are applied by trained and certified stylists who are careful to take the best care of your natural lashes so you’ll be in the best hands. 10/F, 1 Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst terrace, Central. novalash.hk
couples bodymassages & soul Sense of Touch Indulge your senses with a Couple’s Double Martini Ritual at Sense of Touch. The treatment includes an hour massage of your choice, followed by a sensitive radiance facial for the ladies and a refinery deep cleansing facial for the gentlemen. Complete your treatment with a relaxing soak in a bath for two amidst candles and calming music. Try their branch close to home in Sai Kung. G/F, 77 Man Nin Street. senseoftouch.com.hk
The Mandarin Oriental With private spa suites, you can enjoy a range of treatments, including the Eastern Experience where couples can choose between a sakura or yuzu rinse, followed by a skin softening azuki bean body scrub and a meridian
massage. Book a 90-minute couples treatment on February 14 and receive complimentary bubbles and chocolate to enjoy together on their 24th floor balcony. 5 Connaught Road, Central. mandarinoriental.com
Homemade premassage treatment Scrub away dead skin cells premassage with this homemade body scrub
Spa L’OCCITANE L’Occitane’s Wan Chai flagship store offers a refuge away from city life and back to nature with their signature spa experience. VIP cabins, steam baths and a couples suite will help you both feel rejuvenated and rebalanced. The spa uses L’Occitane’s natural products with ingredients from Provence in France. 92 Star Crest, Star Street, Wan Chai. hk.loccitane.com
What you need •
Lush Spa With some of the cutest products in the city, Lush has made a name for itself with handmade and ethical bath and body products. With only one spa location in Hong Kong, their exclusive treatments offer 30 minute consultations prior to each massage. They have a range of couples treatments including deep-tissue rub downs and sumptuous scrubs. Each experience comes with its own unique soundtrack for true relaxation. G/F-4/F, Soho Square, 21A-21B Lyndhurst Terrace, Central. hk.lush.com
• • •
2 cups of sugar, preferably brown sugar 1 cup of olive oil 8-10 drops of essential oil 2 tablespoons of vanilla extract
Instructions 1.
Add sugar to a bowl and slowly begin to stir in the oil until mixture is smooth
2.
Add essential oil and vanilla extract and mix well
3.
Get scrubbing!
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wellness Reshma’s tips for a healthy relationship 1. Learn to communicate better 2. Let go of smaller issues 3. Use phrases that assume some responsibility such as “I feel hurt that …” rather than phrases that place all the blame on the other person such as “ you did this…” 4. Plan a date night once a week when you don’t talk about finances, children or schedules. 5. Appreciate each other and focus on the positives in the relationship. Reshma Chugh gave up a high-flying career in banking to study psychology. She set up a practice in Hong Kong to help others learn, grow and work towards a happy, healthy and balanced mindset. hkcounsellor.com
on how to overcome relationship turmoil. What is your definition of love? Love means different things to different people. To me, love is about respect, trust and knowing that person will be there during good times and bad. I strongly believe that you must love yourself before you can begin to love someone else. Is arguing a good sign? Arguing is normal, but it’s how the couple communicates their feelings to each other that is crucial in a relationship. Getting your point across doesn’t have to be malicious.
Retie the knot
What is normal? When is it time to see a counsellor? Vasavi Seethepalli reports on making the most of your relationships
“U
ltimately the bond of all companionship, whether in marriage or in friendship, is conversation” Oscar Wilde
once said.
Human relationships are complex. For expats, living away from familiar surroundings and family support network can put an added
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strain on relationships. Not all Valentine’s go to plan and sometimes you need to compromise. The good news is that humans possess the ability to commit, compromise and restore frayed bonds. This month, Reshma Chugh, a relationship counsellor who works with teenagers, adults and couples shares advice
What is the purpose of couples therapy? Therapy should not be looked at as crisis management, more a chance to work on communication skills in order to help a relationship become stronger and healthier. Therapy provides techniques to resolve conflicts. When is it time for couple’s therapy? There is no perfect relationship. When couples start to realise they need a little help to learn how to communicate with each other more effectively and when couples feel stuck but are willing to go the distance to resolve. Someone once told me, “ having therapy when you’re not in crisis, is like getting your car serviced rather than waiting until it breaks down.”
interview What are the stages of a relationship? Every relationship is different but there are a few basic stages that most relationships go through.
Stage 5 Committed years
Stage 4
Relationship Crsis
Stage 3
Commitment & Children
Stage 2 Investment stage
Stage 1 Honeymoon period
Stage 1: Honeymoon period Otherwise known as infatuation. The love is new and intense, passionate feelings of affection are displayed and both partners are careful to show their best side.
Stage 2: Investment stage You are in it for the long haul. You start to get to know more about your partner and begin to build trust. This is a stage of exploration and a few arguments can
What is the secret to a successful therapy session? There is no one formula, but generally when both parties are committed, honest and open to making their relationship work. So many people in Hong Kong are
occur as you start to learn more about each other’s personalities.
Stage 3: Commitment & children Couples are committed and at this time some become parents. This can be a particularly testing time as children become the priority and partners can forget about each other.
Stage 4: Relationship crisis
Another tough stage during which partners may pursue different directions but it is possible to work together to get through this stage.
Stage 5: Committed years The couple have learnt how to handle what life throws at them together, they appreciate what each other does, rather than doesn’t do.
Can be termed the ‘mid-life crisis’ stage.
committed to their jobs, is there therapy to help with that? Corporate therapists are becoming increasingly popular in Hong Kong as more companies see the long-term benefits of investing in their staff. These benefits can include increased work productivity and staff
morale. There are benefits in the home too since partners are better able to cope with work stress and able to create a better worklife balance.
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home & living
Sweet petite Local designer Melanie Pauline talks to Carolynne Dear about Hong Kong apartments and making the most of small spaces
Melanie Pauline heads up international homewares specialist The Hallmark, Abbey Hall Interiors
I
t’s a steep and winding climb up to Melanie Pauline’s Mid-levels’ apartment. Pauline has pre-warned me it won’t be up to parr as our shoot isn’t taking place until the following week. “And I’m in my daggy workout gear,” she tells me by text. “There’s definitely no photography today?” But of course, and as is so often the case when you’re meeting with design-types, the presentation is flawless. The front door opens onto a gleaming apartment, oozing style and the kind of ‘chutzpah’ that you only really get with people who properly know what they’re doing with interiors. Pauline is looking equally polished. A Kiwi-born ‘Aussie’, mum-of-three Pauline now runs the Hong Kong branch of international interiors company, The Hallmark,
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Abbey Hall Interiors, which was founded by its namesake, Abbey Hall, four years ago. Pauline joined the business in 2016 and when Hall returned to Australia last September, she handed the entire Hong Kong side of the business over to her. While Pauline has been involved in fashion and design her entire career, Hall had jumped from the corporate world into interiors, having completed qualifications with The Insight School of Design in Hong Kong and Mercer School of Design in Australia. Developing her interior design consultancy, Hall saw a gap in the market for luxe yet practical furniture for small spaces and was inspired to design a collection of chic ottomans. The resultant Meet the Ottomans collection is a versatile range of pieces that can be used as side tables,
coffee tables or even double-up as seats when needs demand. They were snapped up from the get-go and the pair has since moved into occasional chairs and cushions. “I moan about the size of my apartment,” says Pauline. “But really it’s the perfect showroom. In Hong Kong it’s usually space that is the issue when designing a home, so it’s useful for clients to see the versatility of our pieces.” There are five ottomans in the lounge room, unobtrusively and carefully laid out as occasional and coffee tables. “They’re the ultimate multi-taskers,” she says, adding that there are no less than twelve ottomans across the 1,600 square foot space. Around her dining table sits more of the current collection - six lavish, velvet-clad chairs, as well as a sleek, grey occasional chair that Pauline uses at her desk. If you have to work, you might as well do it in style. I’m seriously tempted. The perfect complement to Hall’s eye for luxe, Pauline has always worked in highend environments and is no stranger to plush lifestyles. She began her career in the marketing department for The Leading Hotels of The World group, moving to The Savoy Group of Hotels in London shortly afterwards. Next came a stint as press secretary for Prada in Sydney and she then took over as event manager for ARIA Restaurant in Sydney, working alongside celebrity chef Matt Moran. She admits a love for aesthetics was nurtured from an early age when she was given her first camera. These days she’s still a keen photographer, engaging in friendly competition with her husband. “Although he’s an architect with a very keen eye, so I struggle a bit,” she laughs. Friends describe her as the ultimate stylist. “You ask her to bring something mundane like a cheese platter to a barbecue and she’ll conjure up an offering that looks like
elegance with rugs
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home & living
Pauline’s striking ottoman designs take centre stage in the lounge area (above and below)
it’s been in a Vogue Living shoot,” a friend tells me. “She’s got an uncanny knack of making the everyday look gorgeous but accessible.” “Career-wise, everything I’ve been involved with has always been about aesthetics and about high-end and about luxury,” admits Pauline. “My roles were largely client-facing, and that’s something I missed when I took time out for the children.” Pauline arrived in Hong Kong from Beijing in 2008, where her husband had been contracted to work for the Beijing Olympics for three years. “Beijing was amazing,” she enthuses. “It was fun and it was crazy but when the
Olympics contract ended it was time to move on.” And so, heavily-pregnant, she, her husband, plus their toddler daughter Chloe, moved to Hong Kong and into a tiny walk-up apartment in Sheung Wan. “Oh my god, I was so disappointed!” she laughs. “For me, Hong Kong was the bright, shiny diamond of Asia, I couldn’t wait to get here. But Sheung Wan ten years ago wasn’t exactly the glistening world I had in mind. I was like, where are the malls? Where are the gorgeous bits? It was more cubic zirconia than diamond.” But after giving birth to her twins, things started to improve and Pauline slowly
Velvet-heaven - Pauline takes inspiration from French designer India Mahdavi
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uncovered the Hong Kong she’d been looking forward to. A decade later and she wouldn’t be anywhere else. “I love the junks, I love the hiking, I love walking up Magazine Gap Road just at that moment when day turns to night and all the lights start switching on. Hong Kong is an amazing place,” she says. Now very much back on her game careerwise, she’s busy sourcing new fabrics and researching new pieces from around the world, as well as showcasing the collections to clients in her Hong Kong home. The furniture, unusually, is manufactured in Hong Kong as well as in China, and the fabrics are sourced globally, including lush Chinese velvets and stunning bolts from fabric houses in Italy, England and the US. Her design inspiration comes from strolls along Hollywood Road and popping into local art galleries, as well as big events like Hong Kong Art Week. “When Art Basel launched here I was there like a shot,” she says. “It’s fantastic. I love it.” (Art Basel is back in Hong Kong from March 29 to 31). Also on her lust list are designs by Iranianborn French architect India Mahdavi, who was most recently behind the stunning redesign of The Gallery Restaurant at Sketch, London, and Tod’s retail store on Sloane Street, also in the UK capital. Both spaces are velvet heaven. Further inspiration comes from Brisbane-based architects Richards & Spence and particularly their input into The Calile Hotel - “the result is harsh but soft,” says Pauline. “I like a bit of edginess.” A fan of twentieth-century American
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home & living society photographer Slim Aarons, she has Poolside Gossip hanging in her lounge. She likes that it brings a bit of fun into the space. Closer to home, she admires Aviva Duncan for her “amazing” rugs, online homewares boutique Apartment 49 and Eclectic Cool in Wan Chai. She rates Philippa Anderson of Little P for fabulous inspo for children’s rooms. “And I also spend hours searching out galleries and small design shops in Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun,” she says. She has lived in her Mid-levels apartment for six years and appreciates the location for its proximity to the city. “It’s so convenient. But of course the trouble with renting you can never get the space exactly how you want it. If I’d had a crystal ball when we first took out the lease and known we’d be here for the medium-term, I’d have done much more - updating and re-tiling the bathrooms would have been good.” As it is, Pauline has maximised the space that she has. A bedroom at the front of the apartment has been converted into a light and bright snug, with an eclectic mix of pieces including artwork from Byron Bay-based Ahoy Trader and a customised wooden dresser and wardrobe from her Beijing days. She has a storage area downstairs in the apartment building filled with Beijing pieces - “there’s just no space for them at the moment unfortunately,” she says. The main living and dining area is a gleaming mix of monochromes, silvers and golds, with an accent of yellow throughout, inspired by the Slim Aarons piece. “I’m
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The elegant dining chairs were designed by The Hallmark, Abbey Hall Interiors
beginning to bring in more pops of colour,” she says. “I prefer to have a good neutral base for the big pieces of furniture - like the couches - and then accent the space with artwork, cushions and occasional chairs.” Go-to brands include Tom Dixon, Georg Jensen, Missoni and Kartell. “I have a weakness for Lane Crawford,” she admits. “And Jensen has always been a family favourite, my mother has pieces from way back. But you know what? No matter how high-end you go, there’s always room for a little bit of IKEA in your life.” The elegant entrance
table turns out to be just that, but fabulously accessorised with a pair of marble candle holders and a silver Georg Jensen vase. “My role is new but constantly evolving,” she says. “I’m loving collaborating with Abbey (Hall). I’ve got lots of ideas for new products - at the moment we’re looking into ottomans with storage options and in different shapes. And of course they’re already completely customisable in terms of fabric. If you need some advice coordinating one with your space, I’m here to help.” hallmarkinteriorshk.com
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big day out
Monkeying around
accessibility. The most common way to get into the area is by catching the No. 81 KMB bus from Nathan Road (this bus can also be ridden in the opposite direction from Tai Wai) and disembarking at the Shek Lei Pui Reservoir stop. Those who have a private vehicle at their disposal can venture into the the country park by car. Drive up Tai Po Road and turn off at Kowloon Reservoir, then head across the reservoir dam wall and into the heart of the park. Make sure to wind up your windows though, or else you may incur a few extra passengers, especially if you have food! If you take the bus, once you arrive at the bus stop you will soon be confronted by many monkeys, invariably a troop of Rhesus Macaques. Although the Rhesus species is native to Hong Kong, the macaques found today are believed to be re-introduced. In the 1910’s during the construction of Kowloon Reservoir, the apes were deployed to the surrounding areas in order to combat the spread of a fruit that tainted the water supply. They roam in large numbers and enjoy the area around Tai Po Road, as the rubbish bins and increased human presence improves the chance of finding a meal. There are signs at the park entrance spelling out the dos and don’ts in regards to the monkeys. From experience, be relaxed. Don’t approach the monkeys with food and they will mind their own monkey business. Direct eye contact and sudden movements won’t endear you to them. With that out of the way, the monkeys are great fun to watch and can be extremely photogenic. Heading into Kam Shan Country Park, follow the concrete access road into the
Rory Mackay hikes to Kam Shan Country Park, home to Monkey Hill and friendly wildlife
T
ucked away in the hills behind Kowloon lies a hidden wealth of picturesque landscapes shrouded in thick jungle, interspersed with azure lakes. This is the domain of Hong Kong’s wild chiefs. This is Kam Shan, realm of the monkey. Located between northwestern Kowloon and Sha Tin, Kam Shan Country Park is named after its populations of wild monkeys. However, the area has plenty of other attractions to offer. For the more relaxed visitor, several custom-made nature and family trails showcase the very best of the region’s scenery and the great diversity of Hong Kong’s wildlife. For the more intrepid explorer, there are many exciting hiking and mountain biking trails that run out of Kam Shan. One superb aspect of Kam Shan Country Park is its proximity to the city and
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monkey big hok day business tau out
Beautiful views across Kam Shan Country park
woods, then across the Kowloon Reservoir dam wall. From here there are several options to choose from, the most enjoyable one being a walk up to the monkey mountain. Follow the road up the hillside for twenty minutes or so until you reach a picnic area, usually full of macaques. The monkeys here are a little less feisty than those on Tai Po Road and seeing them in their natural treetop habitat is a delight. You’re not supposed to feed the animals, but some people do. As a result,
the monkeys will approach you if you have food. There are also many wild boars in the area. They are harmless and a real treat to spot. On the way to the top of the monkey mountain the Kam Shan Family Trail makes for a pleasant detour. Back down beside the Kowloon Reservoir, you can also leave the road to explore the Kam Shan Tree Walk. This well signposted pathway leads to Shek Lei Pui and back, highlighting many different types of flora and fauna along the way. For
Ready to take your snacks!
The entrance
those who wish to head further afield, there are extensive networks of mountain biking trails running out of Kowloon Reservoir to the west. If you’re a hiker, there is a lot on offer in many directions. In my opinion, the best route is to follow the MacLehose Trail eastwards and hike up towards Lion Rock. Heading back from the country park is as simple as finding your way in. In addition to taking the bus or driving, there are plenty of taxis on Tai Po Road to flag down. You’ll very quickly descend back into the city and the monkey mountain will seem a million miles away. A world of dense rainforests guarded by troops of charismatic macaques. Yes, in Hong Kong!
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travel
I
’ve finally done it. I’ve found somewhere more expensive than Hong Kong. I don’t realise until the night before we land in Helsinki, as I scan Tripadvisor for some dinner recommendations. The prices are eye watering. Every single one of them, quite literally, I wanted to cry. But I pick my jaw up off the floor, afterall my new year resolution is to invest in quality, not quantity. And when we land on a snow swept runway the following afternoon, the sky is an incredible pinky haze, breathtaking and unlike anything I’ve seen before. Reassuringly, I get the feeling that every euro spent here will be worth it. After an incredible evening exploring Helsinki, and a meal of khinkali (meatfilled dumplings), hatsapuri-imiritinskii (a delicious warm cheese bread) and lobio (like a bean stew, eaten in winter to fill the stomach before the main course) at Georgian restaurant, Purpur (purpur.fi) we awake early to fly north to Finnish Lapland. We land at the small airport of Ivalo at 11am, the effect of the sun is apparent on the horizon but during the depths of winter
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(we travelled in early January) never actually rises above the horizon with daylight ranging between one and three hours per day. The sky is a kaleidoscope of pink, purple and yellow. Absolutely breathtaking. We will spend the following three nights in the popular area of Kakslauttanen, a three hour drive north of Rovaniemi, (the town which is considered by Finns to be the official home of Santa Claus.) In recent years, this area has grown in popularity as the well-kept (until now) secret cousin of Rovaniemi, more
Ivalo airport
beautiful, less crowded and less expensive. The remote Wilderness Hotel Muotka is a romantic resort in the heart of the Arctic Taiga (snow forest), a 40-minute drive from the airport. It becomes apparent that we’ve landed on a day when the sky is at its best and even our driver stops off to take pictures. As the van pulls to the side of the road we catch a glimpse of wild reindeer disappearing into the dense forest. We are greeted with warm blueberry juice and gingerbread, something that is customary in this part of Finland. Wilderness Hotel Muotka offers a range of accommodation including glass roof aurora cabins, traditional log cabins complete with private sauna and standard hotel rooms. The aurora cabins are romantic, if not somewhat slightly exposed, the log cabins are cozy and warm and a good option as if the aurora shines chances are you’ll want to experience it outside anyway. The standard hotel rooms are hostel-like and to be honest a little disappointing, if you can go for a cabin
snorkelling finnish lapland in silfra
In the lap of luxury Photo credit: Nellim Wilderness Hotels & Safaris
A perfect finish to the winter travel season in Lapland. By Gemma Shaw.
A thrilling husky safari through dense Arctic forest
Muotka Aurora Cabin
Options include reindeer and husky sleigh rides, aurora hunting by snowmobile and snowshoe, ice fishing and cross country skiing. The nearby town of Saariselkä is home to a variety of great accommodation and activities, plus the northernmost ski resort in Europe, Saariselkä Ski and Sport Resort. Although we loved the uniqueness of Wilderness Hotel Muotka, access to the town by taxi wasn’t cheap, and the local bus only frequented our nearest stop (a 30-minute walk through pitch black forest) a couple of times a day. On reflection, staying in the town of Saariselkä would have given greater freedom. Our most enjoyable day was spent at Saariselkä Ski and Sport Resort. The resort, formed by two fells, Kaunispää and Iisakkipää boasts 15 slopes varying from beginners’ to advanced. We were astounded by how quiet the slopes were, looking back it could have been because on the afternoon we visited it was a painful -20 degrees celsius and the wind was unrelenting. Still, the freedom to glide
across the fresh powder was incomparable to anything we’ve experienced in the French Alps and a pit stop at the mountain restaurant for a gluhwein, hot chocolate and more gingerbread was all we needed to warm up and get back to the slopes. A
Up close and personal with a reindeer
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Photo credit: Nellim Wilderness Hotels & Safaris
it will make all the difference (nellim.fi). You can fill your days as you wish.
travel Forage for Finnish food in Hong Kong Don’t fancy the flight but I’ve sold you on the cuisine? Executive Director of FinnCham in Hong Kong, Gitta HäggLundvall recommends her favourite places enjoy Finnish food.
reasonable. Try the Finnish creamy salmon soup and karjalanpiirakka (a small pie made from rye dough and rice porridge.) yehousehk.com
Test Kitchen to
Like many Nordic cuisines, Finnish meals highlight wild, seasonal ingredients. Foods like game meat, fresh seafood and local, foraged produce are frequently featured on the menu.
FINDS Night skiing at 3pm at Saariselkä Ski and Sport resort
three hour ski pass costs €36 for adults and €25 for children plus around €35 for boot and ski hire, lessons are also available. The resort offers log cabin accommodation and guided excursions such as aurora hunting by snowmobile and snowshoe (skisaariselka.com). Dinner can be eaten at one of the many restaurants in Saariselkä, or taken buffetstyle back at Wilderness Hotel Muotka. Food in Finland is delicious and as you would expect, hearty and warming. Popular on the menu is lohikeitto (salmon soup), rye bread, karjalanpaisti (meat stew), smoked herring and of course (Rudolph fans avert your eyes), reindeer meat. We spent the following day driving husky sleds through unspoilt dense forest whilst the snow fell softly around us (as I said, worth every cent.) A number of companies in the region offer three to five hour husky and reindeer safaris. Husky&Co is a great option, a three hour husky safari is €135 per person, reindeer safaris are €100 per person. Guides are professionally trained and give a thorough lesson before leaving anxious-looking tourists in charge of their dogs (nellim.fi). In this part of the world it is possible
A legendary Nordic fine-dining restaurant in Tsim Sha Tsui. The name comes from the five Nordic countries: Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark and Sweden. Executive chef Jaakko Sorsa is probably one of the most humble and down-to-earth celebrity chefs I know. finds.com.hk
Rye House Chef Sami Verho sure knows his stuff when it comes to Nordic food culture. With my hand on my heart, I can say that everything on the menu is hugely delicious and the prices are very
to see northern lights or aurora about every other clear night between September and March. On our last night, the aurora hunting expedition we had booked was cancelled due to forecast snowfall. However, after finding we were locked out of our cabin after dinner we headed back through the forest clearing to find
My good friend Vincent Mui is the number one brand ambassador of Finnish food culture in Hong Kong. Vincent is responsible for bringing a number of highly regarded Finnish chefs to Hong Kong. He also organises pop-up dinners featuring interesting local and overseas chefs at his restaurant in Sai Ying Pun. testkitchen.com.hk
Annual Crayfish Party FinnCham hosts an annual Crayfish Party every September. The venue varies but the idea is always the same – plenty of crayfish, great company, music, dancing and drinking. Ticket sales will begin in August, so keep an eye out for it on our website. finncham.com.hk
SverigeShoppen The owner of the convenience shop, Per Ågren, is a Swedish guy, which explains the name of the shop. I recommend salmiakki (the famous salty liquorice), a Finnish chocolate called Fazer and rye crispbread. sverigeshoppen.com
the helpful reception lady. At that point the clouds cleared and the stars aligned. For twenty minutes, magical green and purple lights danced right above us. An unforgettable moment, which brings me back to my first point, locked out of our incredibly expensive hotel room but still, worth - every - cent. Cross country skiing under aurora
Finnair operates free scheduled stopover periods for connecting flights to or from Helsinki. Connection to Ivalo is just under two hours with flights operated by Finnair and Norwegian Air (finnair.com, norwegian.com). For more information visit visitfinland.com
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Photo credit: Ski Saariselkä
How to get there
snorkelling in silfra
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designing zim city hk
What to do with our 2,900 payphone locations? A recycling point or a charging point? What do you want to see?
I
always thought it curious why we still have payphones along our streets, in ferry terminals and other public locations. They appear memories of a time long gone by. I can’t recall seeing anyone use one recently. Their forlorn presence makes you wonder why we don’t get rid of them. Then one day a month ago, I changed my mind. In the morning a team from a local telecommunications provider came to explore ideas with the “Drink Without Waste”, a working group I chair, for reverse vending machines where you can return your used plastic bottles and cartons for a reward. As we are struggling finding locations for these ‘RVMs’ our enthusiasm grew when we realised that they are the universal service provider under the Telecommunications Ordinance with some 2,900 pay phones throughout the city. Later that same day, the Office of the Communications Authority sought agreement of the Southern District Council on removal of payphone kiosks which are rarely used from our streets – some had revenue of less than $1 per day! The authority explained the benefits: Reduction of cost for government, and that it would address complaints from drivers over the obstruction of sightlines and from pedestrians that the kiosks take up space in already narrow pedestrian pathways. From the conversation that morning I had realised though that the 1,600 outdoor and 1,300 indoor payphones are important assets we should not lose: There is permission from the land and property owners to be where they are; there is a foundation strong enough to hold up a booth in typhoon conditions; there is power supply; and there is a fixed line communications connection. District councillors learn the hard way how difficult it is to get any of these assets in a public space. Bus shelters, public seating or adding
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Telephone box in Sheung Wan
pedestrian crossings take years to approve, fund and build. Luckily, I had a chance to speak first that afternoon and explained the real assets of each payphone location, and argued that rather than removing them that we first need a study of how we can make better use of these locations. All councillors supported the call for further study. We were the 15th council out of the 18 to be asked. Most councils had focused on decluttering streets and approved removal of phones except a few for emergency. As the Office of the Communications Authority focused on reducing the $18 million it pays PCCW HKT it failed to enthuse the councils with plans for a smart city and how each payphone is an opportunity we should think about creatively. What can we do with each
beyond making an emergency call? Can they be turned into a recycling point for used packaging? Can they become an information centre? A payment point? A charging point? I don’t have the answers ready. So let me ask you. Please send me your ideas on how to make better use of a square meter of public space with an underground foundation, electricity and a broadband connection. Feel free to send them to info@paulzimmerman.hk
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
The Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Hiking Guide
A stunning collection of 12 Sai Kung hikes, all completed in 2017 for the most updated information.
Order now at hongkongliving.com/shop (we can mail it anywhere in the world)
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woof
Ask a vet... Dr. Pauline Pets Central veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions. Everyone seems to say we should adopt a dog and not buy a breed from the pet shop but we really want a French Bulldog. Is it wrong to buy one? At the end of the day I hope any pup you bring into your home will become a family member. That means your family will live with and care for this dog for the rest of its life. On a spur of the moment decision a pup is purchased from a shop only to be handed over to a welfare group a few weeks or months later with excuses given that include “It barks too much”. I’d like to suggest you create a “Puppy Wish List [PWL]” and consider in your ideal world what your future dog will do, or not. You may decide to adopt an older dog instead of going through many stages of training but don’t forget any adopted adult dog has already developed its own personality and behaviour that may not suit your own lifestyle. Included in your PWL should be 1. energy levels, 2. barking, 3.size, 4. casting: hair/ needs grooming a lot and 5. friendly with children. So you should check if a French Bulldog, cute and popular as they are, is exactly what your family needs. If you want a dog to walk a lot and go hiking then I suggest a French Bulldog is not for you. They prefer to lie in front of the fire. They do become available for adoption so if you agree that’s the breed for you, consider registering for one with local adoption groups. I’m really worried about vaccinating my dog for Leptospirosis as I hear the dog may get a bad reaction. Do I need to as my dog never leaves the house or our garden? Worldwide cases of leptospirosis, a contagious bacterial disease, are being reported more often in dogs. It is a disease that also affects humans and results in many non-specific symptoms that mimic other common problems. So diagnosis can be tricky and usually involves your vet testing blood and urine samples. Infection comes from contaminated wildlife such as rats, boar, deer or their urine deposited in water or on wet soil contacting feet as the bacteria either burrows in through the skin or is ingested through drinking water. It can take 7-10 days to show signs in a dog. Even dogs that only have access to home areas can pick it up if the wildlife can get into the area, or the bacteria is taken home on outdoor shoes. I strongly recommend you have your dog vaccinated annually take precautions. Never let your dog drink from puddles and if they do go for walks, wipe their feet when they get home. As for a vaccination reaction I’m afraid it is possible with any vaccination and to go ahead is a decision you have to discuss with your vet. One of my own dogs had an anaphylactic reaction last time he had a shot, it was scary for me and the first time I had ever seen a dog “pass out” after a lepto vaccine, but I’m glad to say he survived.
Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com 50 | SOUTHSIDE.HK
woof
Walkies with Zoe in Stanley
Z
oe and her mum live all the way in the New Territories, but that doesn’t stop them from coming to Stanley for the day. They both seem familiar enough with the plaza, casually weaving through the children as they head towards the water. Zoe scampers around, scratching the ground with a velveteen paw, and it’s easy to see her charm. The trip to Stanley is one they make often enough; driving over from their home is a hassle but one they bear with every few weeks. The weather is cold at this time of year but the seaside is still pleasant enough to be walkable. The fact that the plaza welcomes dogs is another blessing—they always get some of the shopping done together, and there are so many places to explore! The taxi out is definitely worth it, Zoe’s mum comments as she looks down fondly at her furry companion. You can just see how happy it all makes her.
Zoe’s mum laughs. “It really is perfect here”, she comments and tugs a bit on her leash. Zoe perks up and wags her tail sweetly. As they bid goodbye, she gives one last happy bark. Charming indeed.
Stanley
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southside secrets
The ghost of Eucliffe
Mikael Levin discovers the truth behind Repulse Bay’s spooky demolished castle
E
ucliffe was an eccentric, rambling, stone-built castle built in the 1930s that loomed over the western end of Repulse Bay. Demolished in the 1980s, the legacy of this once-revered house is shrouded in mystery and obfuscated hearsay. It was the home of multi-millionaire businessman Eu Tong Sen, a 19th-century Penang-born tin and rubber tycoon who moved to Hong Kong in 1928 and diversified into traditional Chinese medicine and banking (there’s still a branch of his Chinese Medicine Centre company, Eu Yan Sang, in Sheung Wan.) Rumour has it that the house grew so large because of a prophecy Eu once received from a fortune-teller who warned he would die if he did not keep building. However, with five wives, at least 34 children and an unknown number of concubines, there is a theory that Eu wanted to leave enough assets to keep family discord at bay. His precautions didn’t work. Eu survived several heart attacks before suffering a fatal cardiac arrest in 1941. After his death, the lawsuits flew; the last was settled only in 1996. Eu had three homes in Hong Kong:
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Eucliffe, Euston in Bonham Road - another crenellated castle - and Sirmio on Ting Kok Road, near Tai Po, which resembled a fairytale German schloss. All three were demolished in the 1980s, but in their heyday they were as colourful as their owner. With its towers, crenellations and battlements, Eucliffe was built in homage to England’s 14th-century castles. It had stained-glass windows and an impressive collection of armour and weaponry, as well as a tennis court, swimming pool, greenhouse and lawns with dazzling views of Repulse Bay. Its opulence attracted Hong Kong’s social elite. The castle was renowned for its exceptional hospitality, sublime food and access to the most popular beach in Hong Kong. But by 1940, the world was a vastly different place. Europe was in turmoil and the Japanese were on the march. Eu died before the battle of Hong Kong and subsequent Japanese occupation, so he didn’t witness the abuse of his beloved Eucliffe in 1941. According to Tony Banham’s book, Not the Slightest Chance, the Japanese executed prisoners of war there, binding their hands and lining them up along the cliff edge.
“We knew that we were going to be shot because on top of the bank were pools of blood and at the bottom of the cliff there were dozens of bodies,” stated Company Sergeant Major Hamlon of the Royal Rifles at the postwar War Crimes Trial. “Then a firing squad came forward and we were all shot. Owing to the fact that I turned my head to the left as I was being fired at, the bullet passed through my neck and came out of my right cheek. I did not lose consciousness and the force of the bullet hitting me knocked me free from the others and I rolled down the cliff.” Banham records that Hamlan lay at the foot of the cliff all day before crawling into a cave for shelter. Later 54 bodies were found, shot, bayoneted and decapitated. Eucliffe fell into disrepair, shunned as the place of death and misery, its antebellum reputation supplanted by wartime atrocities. Its sole use during this period was as a stereotypical mise-en-scene in television and film productions calling for derelict mansions. After it was demolished in the early 1980s, the prime real estate was portioned off to property developers. Today it is an area of expensive low-rise apartments.
marketplace
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marketplace
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To advertise, email talk@hongkongliving.com or call 2776 2772
marketplace
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column
Riders on the Storm
Mrs. Backfire tours the devastation (or not)
B
en’s Back Beach Bar remains closed. The yellow surfboard’s still there, hanging on the wall above the wooden ship’s wheel and the antique barometer. A few bar stools and some ladders stand idly by while workmen go back and forth from the bar’s patio to a storeroom. When they stop for a break they look out over the worst of the damage next door. That’s where the concrete stairs, which used to lead to the village and the #9 bus stop, tilt at a precarious angle on top of a pile of sand and debris. Beyond the stairs and caution tape, a collapsed building—behind the old Shek O Man Sun School—is still collapsed. In fact, from the beach side the wreckage looks beyond repair, a victim of shifting sands and storm surges. And yet, in the rest of Shek O village, you’d hardly know how bad things were in the September days after Typhoon Mangkhut struck. On this cool, overcast Sunday, the main beach parking lot is full as patient surfers wait for winter waves and daytrippers break out the selfie sticks. Locals sit outside playing mahjong and enjoying family barbeques while kids bike, scoot and run here and there through the narrow alleys and streets. The crowded buses, hiking trails and restaurants all attest to business as usual for a part of Hong Kong that was hit hard only four months ago. I was expecting more mess. To be honest. With images of a ‘devastation tour’ in my head, I drove out here to see what had changed since my last trip to Shek O in late August. The family dog joined me, though I can’t say exactly what was on her mind. She was probably thinking of what we were going to eat for lunch and would she get to snack on some prawn tails. We started at the main beach where all was well and, as I said, quite busy. The motorcycle gangs on their black and insect green Kawasaki’s rumbled through the parking lot. People on the beach asked to take my dog’s picture. She obliged and didn’t even complain when no reward was forthcoming. (Although I did sense a mild grousing.) It was same-old, same-old.
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I looked for something, anything, that spoke of rebuilding efforts and Hong Kong’s can-do spirit. Man, was I late for the beach clean-up or what? Another dog stopped by to say hello, and I asked her owner, a laidback-looking dad who I would swear owned a surfboard, if he had time to chat about the typhoon. He politely declined, saying he had visitors to attend to, but if I wanted to check back later, he might have time… visitors? The whole place has basically bounced back; it’s party time. Even the neighbourhood kids I spoke to shrugged their shoulders and said the typhoon ‘wasn’t that scary’. What about the old school building that got destroyed? I asked. ‘No one goes there anymore, are you kidding?’ they said as they scooted away from this crack reporter. I looked out to sea. I checked the dog’s whereabouts. She was lying down on the sand as if she too could find nothing more to investigate. Above us, a lone paraglider drifted through the misty sky, looking scenic and well, lonely. How in the heck is he going to land? I wondered. It seemed a metaphor for my assignment. I thought about all the photos and video clips that were shared during and immediately after the typhoon: sheets and sheets of paper fluttering out of broken office windows, a wall of bamboo scaffolding falling off a building, and the trees! So many trees, toppled by winds up to 195 kilometres per hour, and so many streets blocked. According to the SCMP, 1,000 sections of road were affected and, on the human side, 400 casualties were reported, though thankfully no serious injuries. Let’s not forget the waves we witnessed. Crashing over the promenades and seawalls and beaches, from Kennedy Town to Deep Water Bay to Shek O’s Rocky Bay Beach, and in to Ben’s Back Beach Bar. From what I’ve seen after wandering the streets of Shek O, this little strip of sand and its surrounding wreckage are some of the most vivid signs left of Typhoon Mangkhut, the most intense and powerful storm to hit Hong Kong since 1979. It looks bad here, for sure, but it could have been so much worse.
Recent hurricanes and typhoons in other parts of the world have brought levels of death and destruction that are difficult to fathom and, I imagine, even harder to overcome. So I didn’t get the story I came here for, but as the dog and I walked back to the main road for pad thai (and those prawn tails), I had to agree with her when she remarked: Hong Kong is a darn good place to ride out a storm.
Mrs. Backfire is - in the words of John Hughes - a brain, an athlete, a basket case, a princess and a criminal (well, just that one time and I do regret it). You can see me as you want to see me ;)