Mid-levels August 2019

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Mid-levels hongkongliving.com

magazine

August 2019

2 7I COOL 9 DEA

FOR AS HOT D AYS

THE SHEUNG WAN GUIDE

Application deadline

October 2, 2019

for Pre Reception to Grade 2

Canadian International School of Hong Kong CDNIS is an IB World School for children from Pre Reception to Grade 12. Upper School students graduate with both the Ontario School Diploma (OSSD) and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma allowing for entry to the most well-respected universities around the world.

For further information or to register for a weekly tour, please call 2525 7088 or visit

To inspire excellence, cultivate character and empower engagement locally and globally.

2 | hongkongliving.com

CDNIS is strategically located near the Wong Chuk Hang MTR station.

Mid-levels magazine

The really useful magazine

August 2019

2 CONTRIBUTORS

42 HOROSCOPES

Meet our team

What’s in store for you in August?

4 SNAPPED!

44 PETS

Life around Mid-levels

6 WHAT’S ON

48 ZIM CITY

What’s happening in August

10 MUST HAVES THIS MONTH

Dr Pauline answers your pet questions.

Plus Walkies

Paul Zimmerman on how we can preserve Kowloon Park

Get ready for the new school season

12 NEWS

Truly local news

15 FIVE MINUTES WITH...

10

Edmond Cheuk of Cedar Academy

17 LOCAL

With rents rocketing, how can restaurants survive?

12

24

18 COVER STORY

35

Your guide to Sheung Wan’s trendiest spots

23 PROPERTY TALK

Colliers Bonnie Chan on Sheung Wan’s rental market

24 DINING

The best G&Ts in town. Plus Nibbles

28 LIFE & STYLE

Get creative at these co-working spaces

30 OUTDOORS

Seven water sports to try this summer

34 BIG DAY OUT

Laze away summer days at these fabulous beaches

38 TRAVEL

There’s still time to join this charity bike ride in Vietnam

18

“DEEP SUMMER IS WHEN LAZINESS FINDS RESPECTABILITY.” —SAM KEEN

hongkongliving.com | 1

editor’s letter

S

Mid-levels

heung wan was my introduction to Hong Kong. We landed at Hong Kong airport late one evening in October 2014, hopped in a taxi and headed for the bright city lights. We haven’t looked back since. Those first few months exploring the neighbourhood were fun, vibrant and carefree. I tried Chai Masala for the first time at Teakha, ate the best crab fried rice of my life in Chachawan and prayed for good fortune at Man Mo Temple. Today I live a little farther out, but I still indulge days spent wandering the streets of Sheung Wan and reminiscing about the adventure that lay ahead in those early days. We’ve curated an insider’s guide on where to eat, drink and what to do in the city’s trendiest neighbourhood on page 18.

Heading a little further, we cover some summer essentials to get through the heat and humidity this month with the best beaches (page 34), must-try water sports (page 30) and the city’s most refreshing G&Ts (page 24). And if you’re making travel plans, how about a cycle for charity through Vietnam this October? See page 38 for details.

The heat is on but we’re right here with you.

Happy August Mid-levellers!

magazine

Editorial

Managing Editor Gemma Shaw, gemma@hongkongliving.com Contributing Editor Nicole Slater, nicole@hongkongliving.com Becky Love, becky@hongkongliving.com Media Assistant Jeramy Lee, jeramy@hongkongliving.com Editorial Assistant Nicole Cooley, ncooley@hongkongliving.com Charmaine Ng, charmaineng@hongkongliving.com

Design

Design Coordinator Sonia Khatwani, sonia@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Alvin Cheng, alvin@hongkongliving.com

Sales & Marketing

Director of Content Hilda Chan, hilda@hongkongliving.com Senior Partnership Manager Isamonia Chui, isamonia@hongkongliving.com Partnership Manager Mathew Cheung, mathew@hongkongliving.com

Events

Event Executive Ran Chan, ran@hongkongliving.com

Operations

Assistant Operations Manager Charles Lau, charles@hongkongliving.com

Digital

contributors

Digital Editor Apple Lee, apple@hongkongliving.com

Publisher

Tom Hilditch, tom@hongkongliving.com

Thanks to

Adam White Paul Zimmerman Contact us Admin: 3568 3722 | Editorial: 2776 2773 | Advertising: 2776 2772 Published by Hong Kong Living Ltd, L1 Kai Wong Commercial Building, 222 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong

Kiyoko Yamaguchi

Danielle Tjia

Paul Zimmerman

Kiyoko illustrated our cover this month. Originally from Kyoto, Japan, Kiyoko has spent seven years living in Hong Kong and enjoys capturing the city’s best bits in her colourful and engaging illustrations. Purchase her work at kiyoko-yamaguchi. com

As summer comes to an end, our lovely intern gets ready to head back to the US to embark on her last year of university.

But before she was allowed to leave, we sent her on a mission around Sheung Wan. See our cover story this month for a guide to where to eat, where to drink and what to do in the city’s trendiest neighbourhood.

Paul Zimmerman is Southern District Councillor for Pokfulam and CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a group that advocates better urban design. This month he explains some of the frustrations of government bureaucracy with particular focus on a crumbling Wah Fu housing estate and plans for a shopping mall under Kowloon Park. designinghongkong.com

Want to write for Mid-levels Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com 2 | hongkongliving.com

Printer Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong Cover design by Alvin Cheng Cover image: Man Mo Miu Artist: Kiyoko Yamaguchi Image courtesy of Ms Kumiko Sugimoto

HONG KONG hongkongliving.com Mid-levels Magazine is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Mid-levels Magazine cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

people Mid-levels snaps

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say cheese SummerFest 2019

hongkongliving.com | 5

planner

THROUGHOUT AUGUST

50th Anniversary of Moon Landing Exhibition To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first moon landing, the Hong Kong Space Museum will showcase the mission including a LEGO model of the Saturn V rocket. Free.

Foyer of the Hong Kong Space Museum, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. hk.space. museum

THROUGHOUT AUGUST

The World of Ghibli’s Animation Step into the world of wonderful Ghibli animation through 3D sets, installations and scene creation of your favourite movies Spirited Away, My Neighbour Totoro, Castle in the Sky and more! 11am-8pm. $118. Portal 6311, 18 Sheung Yuet Road, Kowloon Bay. ghiblihk.com

UNTIL AUG 25

AUG 31 - SEP 1

Pirates AHOY! Summer Kids Carnival Step inside the world of pirates and treasure maps at the Hong Kong Living Kids Carnival which takes over The Pulse for the weekend. Kids can have their faces painted as fearful pirates and enjoy paddle boating at the inflatable pool while parents scout for treasure at the pop-up market. 11am-5pm. Tickets cost $99 per child (includes entry for accompanying adults). L2 and rooftop, The Pulse, 28, Beach Road, Repulse Bay. hongkongliving.com/shop

THROUGHOUT AUGUST

Ocean Park Summer Water Battle Head to Ocean Park this summer to experience Hong Kong’s first VR freefall ride.

The Waterfront Plaza will transform into an exhilarating water battle zone where you can face off in classic scenes from popular Japanese anime series One Piece. Adults $498, children $249. Ocean Park Hong Kong, 180 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Aberdeen. oceanpark.com.hk

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House 1881 Summer Sensation Programme The historic property is hosting weekly openair weekend markets, floral installations and live music from 11am- 6pm. Each day finishes with a synchronised 3D light extravaganza at 8.30pm. House 1881, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. house1881.com

AUG 3

Motorino Pizza Making Party Motorino’s monthly Pizza Making Party is

happening in August PAW Patrol is coming to Hong Kong – live! Take your kids to celebrate Pirate Day in Adventure Bay with Ryder and his team of pirate pups.

11am, 2.30pm and 6pm. $580. Star Hall, Kowloonbay International Trade & Exhibition Centre, Kowloon. pawpatrollive.com

Sample international cuisines at affordable prices across three large halls. Opening hours vary depending on the hall you visit. $10$40. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai. event. hktdc.com

AUG 10

AUG 16-18 & 23-25

Design and Art Summer @ SummerFest

Hong Kong Ballet: Peter Pan Revisit your childhood with the premiere

back! Make your own Neapolitan pies from tossing the dough to playing around with Italian toppings. Tickets include antipasti, pizza and free-flow Peroni. 3-5pm. $248.

Motorino, 15 Ship Street, Wan Chai. RSVP at info@motorino.com.hk

AUG 3-4

PAW Patrol Live: The Great Pirate Adventure!

BOOK NOW

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hong Kong Ballet

This handicraft market offers visitors a taste of Hong Kong, showcasing a wide assortment of creative crafts by various local designers and artists. 10am-6pm.

Free. Central Harbourfront Event Space, 9 Lung Wo Road, Central. summerfestcentralharbourfront.hk

AUG 15

Hungry Ghost Festival According to traditional Chinese belief, ghosts are said to roam the earth during the seventh month of the lunar calendar. Try not to stay out too late this month!

AUG 15-19

Hong Kong Food Expo Got an event? We can publish the details. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com

SEP 7

Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2019 Showcasing the latest and most exquisite designs from over 140 brands. Expect special promotions, lucky draws, watch parades and more. 9.30am-5pm. Free. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai. event.hktdc.com

their bigger than ever annual wine tasting, featuring top-class wineries at the best prices of the year. 6:30-9:30pm. $400 per person, $350 for six or more. The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. bit.ly/2X7wtG1 or eventbrite.com

SEP 21-22

Red Bull 3 Peaks Race

SEP 14-15

Booze it Up! Pirate’s Beer Fest Don on your pirate getup and unleash your wild side in Pirateland! The fun festival also features the ‘Stairway to Heaven’. 2-8pm.

Online tickets $120, door tickets $160.

Rooftop, 28 Beach Road, The Pulse, Repulse Bay. piratebeerfest.eventbrite.com

SEP 19

Kedington 30th Anniversary Wine Fair 2019 Celebrate Kedington’s 30th anniversary at

A race that gives competitors a chance to experience three extreme sports; Outrigger Canoeing, Open Water Swimming and Trail Running – all wrapped up in one race.

Details, rules and application at redbull.hk/ redbull3peaks

OCT 10

Charity Bazaar We know it’s only August, but have your thought about starting your Christmas shopping? Get a head start at this bazaar featuring over 50 stalls selling handmade crafts, jewellery, accessories and books.

9.30am to 5.30pm. Entry $10. The Helena May, 35 Garden Road, Central. helenamay.com

SEP 22

Wedding Expo Planning for your big day? Get some inspiration on venues, dresses, decorations and more at the 2019 Wedding Expo.

2-6pm. Free. The Helena May, 35 Garden Road, Central. helenamay.com

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planner of Septime Webre’s Peter Pan. The show uses a fun combination of classical ballet, clever slapstick and a touch of hip hop.

Friday 7.30pm, Saturday & Sunday 2.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets from $120. Tsim Sha Tsui, Grand Theatre and Sha Tin, Auditorium. hkballet.com

AUG 17-18 & 24-25

AUG 21

Don your pirate getup and challenge yourself to fiery plates of chicken wings. The first weekend features 10 different spicy flavours and the second weekend features close to 100 styles of wings. 2-8pm. Online tickets $120, door tickets $160. 2/F & Rooftop, 28 Beach Road, The Pulse, Repulse Bay. piratewingfest.eventbrite.com

The host of the popular The Daily Show, Trevor Noah, brings his stand-up tour Loud & Clear to Hong Kong for the first time. Expect plenty of sharp wit, intelligent commentary and Millennial humour. 7pm. $588. Grand Hall, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. trevornoah.com

Scream It Out! Pirate’s Wings Fest!

Trevor Noah Loud & Clear Live in Hong Kong

AUG 23

The Chainsmokers World War Joy Tour

AUG 17-18

Absolutely Fabulous Children’s Theatre at Lee Gardens Performers Sandra Waters and Michael Sharmon share the story of The North Wind and the Sun, one of Aesop’s Fables, with fun activities and songs. Great for children aged three to 10 years, parents welcome. 3pm & 4pm. Free. 2/F, Lee Garden Two, 28 Yun Ping Road, Causeway Bay. aftec.hk

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Grammy award-winning and Billboard chart-topping duo The Chainsmokers bring their World War Joy Asia Tour to Hong Kong for just one night. 8pm. $588. AsiaWorld Expo, 1 Airport Expo Boulevard, Chek Lap Kok. livenation.hk

AUG 24

Hong Kong International Reggae Ska Festival Asia’s biggest celebration of Jamaican music and soundsystem culture. Rock out to reggae, ska, rocksteady and dub all night long. 6-11pm. $420 early bird, $580 door tickets. Southern Stadium, 111 Johnston Road, Wan Chai. hkirsf.com

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must haves this month Espop Boys’ Blue and Yellow Backpack $1,810 from Bonpoint bonpoint.com

Mini Stationery Kit Woodland $110 from Kikki.K kikki-k.com

TOP OF THE CLASS Hit the books with these back to school must haves

Master Plan Soft Cover Journal $100 from Bookazine bookazine.com.hk

Stojo Stackable Cup 180 from Live Zero $ livezero.hk

Magnetic Line Marker $30 from Bookazine bookazine.com.hk

Gel Ink Ballpoint Pen Cap Type $8 each from Muji muji.com.hk

Take Charge Laptop Cover 13 inch $169 from Typo cottonon.com

“I will never let you gyoza” Tote $80 from Cha Siu Papers chasiupapers.com

Scholar Backpack $289 from Typo cottonon.com

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best in class Boogie Board Magic Sketch $299.50 from Toys”R”Us toysrus.com.hk

KAGS Dustin Backpack $799.90 from Toys“R”Us toysrus.com.hk

Stackable Lunch Box Woodland $220 from Kikki.K kikki-k.com

Fun Time Mega Clever Pack - Magical Dreams $169.90 from Toys“R”Us toysrus.com.hk

Big Ideas for Curious Minds Notebook $210 from The School of Life lanecrawford.com.hk

Acrylic 6-Drawer Storage Case $240 from Muji muji.com.hk

Pu Leather Personal Planner Large Woodland $630 from Kikki.K kikki-k.com

The Psychology of Colour Pencil Set $210 from The School of Life lanecrawford.com.hk

Llama Water Bottle $260 from Bookazine bookazine.com.hk

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news

MTR goes west Plans for a new MTR line serving the southern and western areas of Hong Kong Island are in the preliminary stages of discussion. The Transport and Housing Bureau invited the MTR Corporation Limited to submit a proposal for the South Island Line West (SILW) in June of this year. The new line will intersect with the

South Island Line at Wong Chuk Hang and the Island Line at HKU. New stations have been proposed at Aberdeen, Tin Wan, Wah Fu, Cyberport and Queen Mary Hospital.

A number of detailed engineering, financial and environmental assessments will now be undertaken.

The butterfly effect The rare Cirrochroa Tyche butterfly has recently been spotted on Lantau Island. This is the first sighting since 2005, according to the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department. Referring to the 14 year absence of the Cirrochroa Tyche butterfly, the group Green Power have concerns that the Lantau Tomorrow Vision Project (a HK$624 billion government development project which includes the creation of a third core business district through the construction of artificial islands at the eastern waters of Lantau Island) may pose a serious ecological threat to endangered species on the island.

22-year old pays peak price What US-China trade war? What protests in Hong Kong? These two sentiments were obviously not a worry on Matthew Cheung Siuwoon’s mind as he snaps up one of the city’s most prestigious addresses on The Peak in late June. The 22-year-old is the chief executive of the premium education centre, Causeway

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Education and comes from a family that has businesses spanning real estate, education, agriculture and more. His purchase of House 15 on Mount Nicholson – a villa spanning 8,674 square feet – comes at a surprising time amidst uncertainty in the luxury property market.

Nespresso puts the cycle in recycling If you have ever stepped foot in a Nespresso store, you will know that they are big believers in recycling their used capsules. And now, Nespresso have teamed up with Swedish lifestyle bicycle brand Velosophy to create a stylish city bike from their recycled aluminium coffee capsules. The result is RE:CYCLE designed to illustrate the potential of recyclable aluminium. The bike itself is equipped with an orange capsule shaped bell, plus a cup holder basket so that riders can enjoy their favourite drink on the go. To showcase the recycling and sustainability initiatives, Nespresso Hong Kong will launch “The Capsule Journey”, a pop-up exhibition dedicated to educating and advocating these messages. Check out the exhibition from August 2-11 at Elements Mall, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.

in your backyard

New freefall ride drops at Ocean Park The Abyss VR Ride at Ocean Park has been fully upgraded and is ready for take off. The new VR Space Voyage, which is not for the faint of heart, launches riders into a hyper-realistic outer space VR adventure with breath-taking

vista effects. After just seconds of admiring the views, you’ll plummet 20 storeys straight back down to earth in just a few hair-raising seconds.

Riders must be 132cm or over, and aged 13+ to participate in VR mode. oceanpark.com.hk

Rituals opens in Asia… finally

As part of an international expansion plan, Rituals Cosmetics has finally arrived in Asia with the opening of its first store at Times Square in Causeway Bay. Rituals Cosmetics opened at the end of last month. The brand’s philosophy centres around helping users to slow down and find happiness in the smallest of things.

In doing so, they have created an extensive collection of luxurious, yet affordable products for the home and body. rituals.com

IMAX Laser Theatre set to shine

Peak Tram back on track Movie-goers, this one’s for you. Hong Kong is set to be blessed with its first ever IMAX Laser Theatre, part of the new UA Cinema which will open at K11 Art House in TST later this month.

The new cinema will consist of 12 theatres, 1,708 seats and a six-star VIP theatre offering personalised customer experiences. The IMAX Laser Theatre will use groundbreaking

technology to offer more vibrant and sharper images as well as powerful, immersive sound. Expect to see all-round interactive performances, which go above and beyond standard cinema screenings. K11 Art House is part of the new cultural-retail destination K11 MUSEA. uacc.com.hk

Hong Kong’s newest Soho Private members’ club Soho House is set to open its doors for the first time in Hong Kong in September. Founded by entrepreneur Nick Jones in London in 1995, Soho House is a home from home for people working in creative fields. The Hong Kong House will be their 25th House with others located around the world including West Hollywood, Amsterdam and Istanbul. Members of Soho House Hong Kong can expect a dedicated bar and club space, a swim-up bar, barbecue area and the House Brasserie. Three floors will be taken up by the Soho Active gym, whilst nine floors are dedicated to Soho Works for work and meeting spaces. A members’ events program will feature film, music, fashion, art, design and wellness.

Soho House, 33 Des Voeux Road, Sheung Wan. sohohouse.com

Nick Jones, founder of Soho House

It’s full steam ahead for our beloved Peak Tram which reopened on July 22 following a three month closure. During the suspension, upgrade work was carried out which included temporary improvements to parts of Tramway Path and the construction of new, temporary boarding and alighting platforms. The upgrade was the first in a series of stages which will ultimately see current tramcars (which have a capacity of 120 passengers), replaced with larger tramcars capable of carrying 210 passengers. “For such a comprehensive upgrade, some temporary suspension of the Peak Tram service is unavoidable,” said May Tsang, General Manager of The Peak Complex.

The second suspension period is scheduled in Q3 of 2020. During this time, public bus and Green Minibus services will be strengthened to meet passenger demand. “We are offering a number of new initiatives over the summer to ensure visitors to the Peak have a memorable journey,” added Ms. Tsang. One such initiative is “Summer Fun at the Peak”, an art, shopping and performance festival which celebrates the arrival of summer and the resumption of the Peak Tram Service. The festival will run throughout August. thepeak.com.hk

hongkongliving.com | 13

Sports & Language

TERM 1 Enrolling Now Open to ESF & non-ESF students

Why choose us?

Progressive curriculum Develop team-work & leadership Foster problem solving & creative thinking Qualified and experienced teachers Build confidence and communication skills

Join the fun!!

Hotline Email

2711 1280 language@esf.org.hk sports@esf.org.hk

Website www.esf.org.hk Facebook ESF Language ESF Sports

Language & Learning

Playgroup Pre-Kindergarten Phonics Drama Writing English Spanish French Date: 9 Sep - 15 Dec

Sports

Basketball Football Swimming Gymnastics Sports Cubs Tennis Fencing Martial Arts Sailing Date: 26 Aug - 13 Dec 14 | hongkongliving.com

five minutes with Playing a musical instrument is a complex and richly stimulating experience, it requires using both sides of your brain and helps enhance critical thinking, memory, literacy, communication and motor skills.

Musicians have faster auditory and tactile reaction times, and also can better process multiple sources of stimulation.

We must take into account that artificial intelligence will reduce or replace human involvement, the value that humans can deliver will help build emotional intelligence, holistic learning, and character education.

We focus on delivering “future proof” education, we take a longer-term and comprehensive view on how a child can and should grow.

We believe every child is unique, it is our responsibility to help discover their strengths, build self-confidence, and achieve full potential.

A Cedar educator needs a strong sense of purpose and an overarching interest to improve a child’s learning.

Parents bring their children to musicfocused programmes as early as two months old. The positive impact of music on children cannot be under-estimated.

Five minutes with

Edmond Cheuk

Director of Cedar Academy & Cedar Institute of Performing Arts discusses early childhood development with Charmaine Ng Parents are under increasing pressure to give their children a head start. There’s too much emphasis on assessment and not enough on creativity, critical thinking and project-based learning.

As someone who started learning music at an early age, I can attest to the benefits music has had on my character development, academic achievements and also the joy it has brought to my life.

Parents should let children explore, socialise, play, and create. A lot of learning takes place through play, hands-on thematic projects, team-based activities like sports. integrated learning, and creative media.

I performed the Bach double concerto with my brother on stage when I was younger.

It was about collaboration, teamwork, and creating something beautiful together.

For more information please visit Cedar Academy & Cedar Institute of Performing Arts. C9/F, 239 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai. cedar-academy.com

hongkongliving.com | 15

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local

Little Bao take a bow at Staunton Street

Re-Lease me!

Charmaine Ng reminisces on the restaurants that have fallen prey to sky-high rents in the city

H

ong Kong has seen countless restaurants shut down over the last few years. One minute they’re throwing a grand opening party, and the next minute they’re waving their goodbyes for the last time. Central and the Mid-levels, too, have had their fair share of closings.

Remember healthy haunt Life Café, which shut its doors after 11 years in Central? And HOME Eat To Live, beloved vegetarian restaurant that ceased service suddenly in 2017?

We can go on and on – Mercato and Jinjuu in California Tower in 2018. Bread Street Kitchen & Bar and Gough 40 around Central, also in 2018. And earlier this year, Blue, the butcher and steakhouse, and ON Dining, the modern French fine-dining restaurant on On Lan Street.

The newest addition to the list is Little Bao in Soho, which closed on June 12 after six years of operation. The vacated space will be handed back to the government for urban renewal development. Luckily, we can still bite into their beautifully-crafted baos at their Causeway Bay location.

Most restaurants and bars are forced out because they are unable to afford the rising commercial rents in the city. Never in history has a restaurant had its rent cut – at least, not in recent years. Many outlets in prime areas face at least a 30 per cent increase in rent when they seek renewal. We’re talking big bucks here – for example, rental prices for street level space in Lan Kwai Fong often go over $100-150 per square foot.

“Rents in Hong Kong have continued to inch

upwards this year, fueled by broadly positive sentiment in the overall markets, including the financial markets,” says Joshua Miller, CEO of Okay.com, a property agent company in Hong Kong. “We did see a brief abatement during the height of the extradition bill concerns driven by general uncertainty, though this has largely passed.”

As for the future of rental prices in the city?

“Demand has been increasing slightly faster than supply, consistent with the last several years, though the launch of several new firsthand developments may counter this over the next 12 months,” Miller explains. “Assuming there are no other major market events, I expect rents to therefore remain stable at current levels for the next year.”

Things are not looking good for restaurants that are already struggling with rent. For them, we only hope for the best. We’ve said many tearful goodbyes, and as we head into the second half of the year, we’ll need to say plenty more. But for now, enjoy the restaurants that are here when you can – you never know when they will be gone.

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cover story cover story

Keepin’ it local in Sheung Wan Abound with independent cafes, antique shops and cultural hotspots, Apple Lee and Danielle Tjia explore one of Hong Kong’s trendiest districts

S

heung Wan was one of the first areas in Hong Kong that the British settled into. Bordered by Central to the east and Sai Ying Pun to the west, the former waterfront strip (now Queen’s Road) used to be a booming business hub that attracted flocks of wealthy Chinese merchants to set up trade along the harbourside. Over the years, Sheung Wan has been slowly switching over to a more hipster and diverse part of the city. With a close proximately to LKF, the neighbourhood is filled with a plethora of vintage shops and quirky cafes where you can get lost in for the day. Here’s our guide to what’s hot in the area right now.

THINGS TO DO Man Mo Temple One of the oldest temples in Hong Kong, Man Mo Temple is built in 1847 and dedicated to

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the worship of the gods of literature (“man”) and martial arts (“mo”). Inside the historic monument, rows of burning incense coils hang overhead, covering the entire space with a smoky haze. The Taoist temple offers a rare piece of urban respite located just off of Hong Kong’s financial district. 124-126 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, 2540 0350

PMQ Formerly the old Police Married Quarters, PMQ has been transformed into an arts design hub that connects heritage with creativity. The historic complex is now home to a host of local design studios, art galleries, restaurants and cute cafes. There are also pop-up markets and exhibitions taking place at its outdoor courtyard from time to time. 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, 2870 2335 pmq.org.hk

Western Market Tucked amidst modern low-rises and

sheung wan skyscrapers, the Edwardian-style building stands out in its red-bricked exterior and bright white arches. First built in 1906, Western Market has since been converted into a sprawling shopping centre filled with boutiques selling hand-made crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Road Central, Sheung Wan, 6029 2675

Sheung Wan is also home to two of Hong Kong’s best known antique streets – Hollywood Road (or Antique Street) and Upper Lascar Row (or Cat Street). You will find dozens of fine art galleries and antique dealers selling jades, Chinese paintings, Buddha statues and other curios along these two parallel stretches.

GO VINTAGE SHOPPING

RESTAURANTS

restaurants, Chachawan offers diners a taste of Isan, the northeastern region of the country. The vibrant eatery is set on Hollywood Road and offers a range of fresh salads, sautes and grilled meats prepared with a charcoal pit. Save some room for dessert as the warm bowl of coconut rice dumplings has proven to be a crowd favourite here over the past five years. There is also a fun selection of cocktails and bottled beers served in a convivial, down-to-earth atmosphere. 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. chachawan.hk

Photo credit: Peter PZ Flickr

Te Quiero Mucho

Embark on a thrift shopping trip around the many hidden corners of Sheung Wan. While the area is populated with offices and residential buildings, there is also a plethora of vintage and second-hand clothing stores waiting to be discovered. Bang Bang 70s stocks funky costumes and memorabilia dating back to, you guessed it, the disco era; InBetween Shop is brimming with vintage posters, art prints, postcards and even vinyls from around the world; while Select 18 is a treasure trove for vintage bags, glasses and accessories.

Go gallery hopping and antique shopping Alongside its host of indie vintage boutiques,

Yardbird Yardbird is a hip, sharing-style izakaya restaurant that specialises in yakiniku chicken – from wings, fillets and breasts to more adventurous numbers like neck skin and gizzards. Chef Matt Abergel grills the skewers over Binchotan charcoal, a traditional Japanese cooking method dating back to over three hundred years ago. Its pricing is in the middle range, depending on what you order and if you want drinks. The busy restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so be prepared to spend some time at the standing bar area as you wait to be seated inside.

154-158 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan. yardbirdrestaurant.com

This Mexican eatery is a Sheung Wan favourite for nights out with your friends.

Helmed by native Guadalajara chef, Jose Alfonso Rodriguez, TQM offers a range of authentic shared-style dishes, such as the Baja fish tacos and homemade churros. The lively atmosphere here also comes with a refreshing array of margaritas and artisanal tequilas. 286 Queen’s Road, Sheung Wan. mojonomad.com

Chachawan Going off-piste from the usual style of Thai food that you’d find in most Hong Kong

208 Duecento Otto If you’re in the mood for Italian, 208 Duecento Otto is just the place for you. With a casual yet upscale atmosphere, the neighbourhood hangout has been serving up rustic Italian plates for more than eight years. Its Napoletana pizzas, topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy, are firm favourites among regulars. 208 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. 208.com.hk

Pica Pica Pica Pica is a cosy Spanish tapas bar that looks out onto the Sheung Wan tram terminus and busy pedestrian crossings from its tall open arches. High ceilings and an open kitchen further this sense of spaciousness

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sheung wan and creates a relaxing, homely atmosphere.

The name Pica Pica means “a little bit of this, a little bit of that” in Spanish and its menu is exactly that, as everything is served in small sharing size portions. The tapas here are wildly inventive with the like of a lazy sunny side-up omelette with morcilla and chorizo, and red prawn hot dog served with Jospergrilled prawn head. Shop G&H, G/F, Kai Tak Commercial Building, 317-321 Des Voeux Road Central. picapica.hk

for harvesting the agave plant, COA is an Mexico-inspired bar founded by industry heavyweight Jay Khan. Khan has taken inspiration from his own travels around South America to create a beverage programme that pays homage to its local drinking culture.

Alongside mezcal and tequila cocktails, other speciality drinks includes the housefermented tepache, which is made with pineapple skin, sugar and cinnamon and is typically served from roadside carts in Mexico. Shop A, LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central. coa.com.hk

The Old Man Inspired by the notorious alcohol habits of Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man is a slick drinking den brought to you by a power trio of the hospitality industry – Agugng Prabowo, James Tamang and Roman Ghale – all of whom have spent time at some of Hong Kong’s top hotel bars including Lobster Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Vibes at The Mira and The Upper House. Named Asia’s best bar of 2019, The Old Man serves genuinely wellexecuted cocktails and will only set you back for $90 each. 37 Aberdeen Street, Central. theoldmanhk.com

Scandinavian, more specifically Swedish.

Founded by wristwatch designer Alexis Holm, Squarestreet was initially just a store where you could find stylish timepieces, bags, shoes and jewellery. Its storefront is now home to a minimalist cafe, where you can fuel up on robust Swedish coffee while updating your wardrobe with one of a kind lifestyle pieces. G/F, 15 Square Street, Sheung Wan. 15squarestreet.com

The Cupping Room Since opening its first location in Stanley back in 2011 (which has now been relocated to Sheung Wan), this indie coffee shop and roastery has set up three additional shops around the city. The coffee here is fresh and extremely flavourful. The Sheung Wan outpost also serves an all-day breakfast menu including egg benedict and a mean avocado toast. 299 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan. cuppingroom.hk

Bibo Ever want to experience what it is like to eat and drink inside an art gallery? Bibo is a creative space that combines artisanal French cuisine with street art. The walls of the restaurant are decked out with graffiti and contemporary paintings from world renowned artists like Banksy and Damien Hirst. To enter into the stylish art restaurant, you will first need to pass through a sliding door and head down a flight of stairs. 163 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. bibo.hk

Teakha If you’re not a huge coffee drinker, Teakha may just have the perfect cuppa for you. The homey tea room serves brews from around the world, from classic Hong Kong milk tea to Morrocan mint tea and masala chai from India, as well as delicious homemade cakes. The space, with its picturesque outdoor terrace, is also host to various community events including occasional live performances and pop-up weekend markets. Shop B, 18 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan. teakha.com

Bedu Nestled on Gough Street, the modern Middle Eastern eatery takes inspiration from the region’s diverse street food culture. You can easily spot the venue because of the beautiful mural on its exterior wall, painted by local street artist Elsa Jeandedieu and her team.

Now offering a weekday lunch set from $95, you can choose from mains like salt-baked lamb, spicy couscous with saffron squid and vegetarian-friendly options like falafel and hummus, accompanied by your choice of rice, salad or pita bread. 40 Gough Street, Sheung Wan. bedurestaurant.com

BARS COA Appropriately named after the tool used

Quinary With acclaimed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, this Hollywood Road bar is stirring up some of the best molecular cocktails in town.

Most notably, its earl grey caviar martini, which crowns a light, fluffy tower of foam, is a total indulgence for both your eyes and taste buds. 56-58 Hollywood Road Central. quinary.hk

CAFES Squarestreet Hidden at the back of Square Street is a quaint little coffee shop that is fully

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cover story

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property talk

Is Sheung wan the right neighbourhood for you?

Bonnie Chan, Associate Director of Residential Services at Colliers International updates us on the Sheung wan property market Due to its proximity to shops and the metro, Sheung wan is popular with expatriates, especially young professionals and small families. In recent years, there has been a shift of people moving to Sheung Wan from areas such as Soho and Mid-levels.

Sheung Wan offers a mix of residential units. From tall high-rise buildings with clubhouse facilities, to fully renovated low-rise walk-ups. A few high rise buildings with great facilities (not to mention great views) include Centrestage, One Pacific Heights and Soho189.

Rentals have increased consistently over the past five years with most units in the area measuring less than 1,000 square feet. Rental prices vary but on average,

fall in the range of $50 to $65 per square foot and prices can go as high as $90 to $100 per square foot for an apartment with outdoor space, or if the apartment is fully furnished.

landlords purchasing small units and fully renovating them in order to obtain a higher rental return.

For more information on the area, please visit colliersresidential.hk

We have also noticed a trend of

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dining

Ping Pong Gintonería With its spacious interiors and Wong Kar-waiesque vibes, it’s no surprise that Ping Pong Gintonería became the quintessential hipster

Where to find the most refreshing gin & tonics this summer

H

ong Kong has a thriving bar scene and it’s never difficult to find a good drink, whether it’s a glass of wine or an expertly shaken cocktail. But if you’re really looking to get into the drinking spirit, there’s no better place than a bar that specialises in gin. Whether you’re a connoisseur or just looking for that weekend buzz, here are the best places in town to enjoy a G&T.

Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour The basement of a shopping mall might not seem a likely locale for a top-notch G&T but that’s exactly what Dr Fern’s serves. Hidden

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behind a mock physician’s door, this beautiful speakeasy prescribes some of the best gins in the world, from the Mediterranean Gin Mare to the spicy and savoury Truffle Gin from England. With more than 20 pages, the gin menu can seem intimidating at first, but everything is categorised into four flavour profiles and the knowledgeable staff are always happy to suggest the best botanicals and corresponding tonics to create your perfect libation. If you’re looking to get your five-a-day, the bar does a selection of vegetable cocktails that are just what the doctor ordered. Shop B31A, First Basement Floor, Landmark Atrium, Central. mingfathouse.com

lemon or lime? in town to enjoy the distilled spirit. True to Lai’s brand of multisensory mixology, the cocktails here combine exceptional execution with a large splash of creativity. To celebrate Hello Kitty’s 45th anniversary, the bar has especially designed two adorable and delicious cocktails including their signature Kyoho Grape Bathtub with a kitty twist, until August 31. G/F, 48 Wyndham Street, Central. originbar.hk

John Anthony Maximal Concepts’ modern Chinese restaurant puts a whole new spin on responsible drinking.

Everything here is designed with sustainability in mind, from the energy-saving lightbulbs to the menus made from recycled paper. When it comes to the bar, aside from eschewing single-use plastics, John Anthony offers more than 400 types of gin and highlights those from distilleries that are socially and environmentally responsible. If you’re not sure which pour to go for, start with one of JA’s four signature G&Ts, made with house infusions inspired by the Spice Routes. Basement Level, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Road, Causeway Bay. johnanthony.hk

hangout spot when it opened its doors in 2014. Formerly a ping pong club (hence the name), the bar champions what it calls the ‘Spanish gin-tonic experience’ by offering bottles such as Santamina’s Lola Y Vera from Madrid and the cult Xoriguer Mahón Gin from Menorca. Non-Spanish options are available too, including Hong Kong’s very own Perfume Trees Gin. All G&Ts here are served with hand-chiselled ice and go down particularly

well with one of the many tapas on offer. L/G Nam Cheong House, 129 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun. pingpong129.com

Origin Origin is proof that master mixologist Antonio Lai has always been ahead of the curve.

Opened in 2013, the bar was the first in Hong Kong to celebrate the full potential of gin and remains one of the best spots

New Punjab Club Celebrating the post-colonial era of India and Pakistan, New Punjab Club offers Michelinapproved Punjabi fare in a regal, gentlemen’sclub setting. If you’re looking for something to wash down your samosa chaat and delicious tandoori, the gin trolley is a good place to begin. Select one of the premium bottles and the friendly bar staff will dress it up with a complementing tonic and botanicals found in South Asia. 34 Wyndham Street, Central. newpunjabclub.com

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dining

Nibbles

A taste of Southern France at Le Petite Maison French restaurant La Petite Maison has made a name for itself with its chic French fare served across the world in London, Dubai, Miami, Abu Dhabi and now Hong Kong, its first establishment in Asia. The Londonbased restaurant has seen a full house of diners since its opening last year – and it’s no wonder, too, with its fresh Mediterranean plates, charming ambience and impeccable service right in the heart of Central.

This month, La Petite Maison welcomes the warmer weather with a new showcase of dishes inspired by the family-style dining in Southern France on long summer nights. The dishes are fresh, simple, served ‘à la minute’

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and specially made for sharing.

Highlights include the classic Warm Prawns with Olive Oil, a classic from the original La Petite Maison restaurant in Nice; the Ratatouille et Feta, a delicately presented plate of marinated Mediterranean vegetables stacked around fine Greek feta; and the Whole Sea Bream, which is steamed to perfection in a sealed parchment paper pouch. These dishes, along with their respective ingredients, are all brought to the heart of Hong Kong from the south of France by Chef Raphael Duntoye.

It wouldn’t be summer in the Mediterranean without rosé, and La Petite

Maison offers one of the most extensive lists of rosés in Hong Kong to accompany diners during their long, leisurely lunches. Guests are spoilt for choice with six fine Rosés de Provence to select from. There are plenty of other drinks too, for someone who’s seeking something a little more classic. And don’t worry, non-drinkers, you’ve not been forgotten – La Petite Maison has crafted the Vitamin Sea, a salted pink grapefruit soda infused with rosemary and hibiscus, just for you.

Make it a special occasion and bring your whole family along to the lunch of a lifetime at La Petite Maison. You may not be in France, but it sure feels like you’re living the glamorous Côte d’Azur life. lpmlondon.co.uk

nibbles

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life and style

Co-work it out!

Charmaine Ng rounds up the best workspaces to create, collaborate and get started on that business idea

W

hen it comes to rent, Hong Kong is not joking around.

Sky-high prices mean that new entrepreneurs or small startups may not be able to afford their own offices yet. Luckily, there are plenty of coworking spaces around the city, each with their own features and unique community. Read on for our recommendations of the best working spots around.

The Executive Centre

Perfect if you...

Most coworking spaces in the city have looking for a are a trendy, hipster vibe, but those looking isable space tom cus to upgrade to something a little more sophisticated can check out The Executive Centre. With various locations across Hong Kong, this premium shared office space can be customised to suit the needs of you and your business. There’s even an in-house barista to brew your morning coffee! Multiple locations including Level 22-26, 39 Queen’s Road Central, Central, executivecentre.com.hk

HK Works At HK Works, you have all the convenience of a coworking space with all the savings and privacy of a personal office. This ideal combination, located in the growing business hub of Wong Chuk Hang, is great

Perfect if you… live farther from the city centre

Compass Offices Compass Offices serves local and international businesses with workspaces across Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

Those on the lookout for a spot where they can focus on growing their business will be pleased with Compass Offices’ inviting business lounge with a corporate office setting. Whether you’re a local entrepreneur

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searching for an occasional office space or an overseas businessman (or woman!) seeking to tap into the Asia Pacific market, Compass Offices’ prime locations are sure to satisfy all your business needs. 20 locations with its newest at 19/F & 20/F, Chinachem Exchange Square, 1-7 Hoi Wan Street, Quarry Bay. compassoffices.com

co-work it out theDesk If a blank canvas without distractions is what drives your productivity, then theDesk’s bright, minimalist coworking spaces are just what you need. Their inclusive community encourages businesses to connect and grow together, with five locations spread across the city. The newest branch in Sheung Wan occupies seven storeys at Strand 50 with communal areas including a spacious terrace, private offices, dedicated desk, hotdesks and event spaces – all decked with theDesk’s signature minimalist design for maximum inspiration. Multiple locations including 1/F, 50 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan. thedesk.com.hk

Perfect if you... want to brush up on your cooking skills

Perfect if you… have a thing for minimalist design

BiteUnite Anyone who’s ever attempted to cook in Hong Kong will know that it is a nearimpossible feat thanks to the lack of space. Throw that countertop oven away – enterprising chefs or those wanting to break into the F&B industry can now turn to BiteUnite’s licensed, equipped and insured kitchen coworking space for their cooking needs. Foodies can host cooking classes or experiment with private meals, all with business support. G/F, 15 Lung On Street, Wan Chai. biteunite.com for freelancers, start-ups and growing companies alike. Everything is included in their low monthly fees and the space is just a short five-minute walk from the MTR. Unit 6E, Derrick Industrial Building, 49 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang. hkworks.hk

u…

Perfect if yo lete privacy need comp ing while work

Garage Society Founded in 2014 with multiple locations across Asia, Garage Society offers a community for the next generation of entrepreneurs. The fully-serviced space hosts regular events and talks to motivate and inspire. Each of Garage Society’s four locations in Hong Kong features a particular attraction – the Sai Ying Pun branch is pet-

friendly, the Wan Chai branch has a rooftop farm, the Sheung Wan branch overlooks the sea and the Central branch has a private terrace – and all are beautifully designed and decorated. Multiple locations including 8/F & 9/F, 33 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. thegaragesociety.com

Perfect if you… want to bring your pet to work

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sports

Making waves

Dip your toe in and try these Hong Kong water sports this summer Stand-up paddleboarding Paddle across calm waters while the sun goes down… stretch yourself into a downward facing dog… or have your very own furry friend jump on the back. Stand-up paddleboarding is a popular way to enjoy the sights and seas

in Hong Kong, and is fairly easy to grasp for beginners. Put simply, you stand up on a board that looks somewhat like a surfboard, but rather than catch waves, you use a paddle to propel yourself through the water.

Best spots to SUP Stanley Main Beach, Sai Kung Country Park Where to hire or tour: Aqua Bound offer SUP rentals on Stanley Main Beach from $80 for a one-hour rental. aquabound.com.hk OR Wild Hong Kong offer a Wildfactor Sai Kung SUP Tour which allows for up to five hours on the water depending

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on conditions. Groups of one to three persons is $800 and includes all equipment rental. wildhongkong.com/sai-kung-sup

Kayaking This small, narrow watercraft generally holds one to two people and is propelled by a double bladed paddle. An ideal way to explore some of our 260+ beautiful islands and remote beaches, it’s easy to see why Hong Kong is a kayaker's paradise. Not only is kayaking a great day out, but it’s an opportunity to learn about the ocean’s environment and the importance of protecting and preserving these ecosystems.

just add water

Big Wave Bay

Best spots to kayak There are many great islands to kayak around in Hong Kong. We recommend Hong Kong GeoPark and Dog Island just off Lamma Island.

Where to hire or tour: Sea Kayak Hong Kong offer a gentle six kilometre kayak session perfect for beginners.

The trip takes about three hours and is $450 per person which includes equipment, an experienced instructor, photography, water and snacks. seakayakhongkong.com

Swimming Tackle the water with Hong Kong’s Premier Swim School, Harry Wright International.

With over 40 years teaching experience, the

company has built a reputation for excellence and reliability across the city. From parent assisted lessons for infants to a highly competitive swim team, the school offers lessons for every age and ability group. harrywright.com.hk

Surfing Hong Kong isn’t the first place you would think of when it comes to surfing, but believe it or not, we actually have a couple of great surfing spots. Big Wave Bay is probably the first place that comes to mind for many, and the location of many early morning surf lessons for beginners. If you’ve always wanted to jump on a board, now is a great time to start.

Best spots to surf Big Wave Bay, Tai Long Wan Bay, Pui O Where to hire or tour: HK Waterman host group and one-on-one surf lessons at Big Wave Bay, starting at $600 per person. Weekday and weekend morning slots available. hkwaterman.com

Snorkelling and Scuba Diving Always wondered what lurks below Hong Kong waters? There’s a total of 84 different coral species in Hong Kong just waiting to be explored, many of which you will find at Hoi Ha. There’s also crabs, sea cucumbers, fish, lobsters, sea urchins and even seahorses if you’re lucky. You generally have to be Open Water certified to scuba dive most places in the world, including Hong Kong.

Best spots to snorkel Hoi Ha Han Marine Park Best spots to scuba: Clearwater Bay, Sai Kung Where to hire or tour: Splash HK offers a PADI Discover Scuba experience which allows inexperienced divers to get some basic skills in the pool before heading out into the ocean. The one day course is $1,200. Then you can join in their Splash Days with shore and boat diving.

Prices start at $500 (equipment rental is an extra $250 per day). splashhk.com

Windsurfing Did you know that our Hong Kong windsurfing team has won many Asian and World titles in the past including a Gold medal won by Lee Lai San in the Atlanta Olympics in 1996?

Stanley is known to be Hong Kong’s most

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just add water What lies beneath Hong Kong waters…

Blue Blotch Butterfly Fish This species of butterfly fish is quite rare, inhabiting rich areas of hard coral as it feeds mainly on live polyps of Acropora corals. Hong Kong is probably close to the northern limit for this tropical species.

popular spot for windsurfing, with ideal months of the year being September to April.

Look out for the easterly and north easterly winds in Stanley, and you’ll hit the sweet spot for perfect conditions.

Best spots to windsurf

feet attached to a board that is attached to a bar and rope thats is attached to a boat, this sport evolved from a combination of sports, namely water skiing, snowboarding and surfing. If you’re up for something a bit more challenging with a little bit more excitement and speed, this one's for you.

Stanley, Sai Kung, Cheung Chau, Tai Po and Tuen Mun

Best spots to wakeboard Stanley, Sai Kung, Tai Tam

Where to hire or tour: Located on Stanley Beach since the 1970s, Hiwindlover can organise windsurfing equipment rental or courses. A beginners course starts at $800 for three hours, and beginner windsurfing gear rental starts at $150 per hour. hiwindlover.com

Wakeboarding If you’ve got a good sense of balance, you’ll take to wakeboarding like a pro. With your

Where to hire or tour: Wakeboard Hong Kong, based in Tai Tam, have packages available for days out with family and friends, corporate or school packages. Prices vary, but their friends and family package offers three hour sessions which include wakeboarding, tubing and boating for $2,700, available Monday to Friday. wakeboard.com.hk

Banded Coral Shrimp This species of Shrimp although found in Hong Kong waters is generally found in Paris. The females grow to be bigger than the males.

Astropecten Polyacanthus (Starfish) Three species of Astropecten starfish are known from local waters. These starfish adapt to living on sand thanks to their pointed tube feet with no suckers.

Bulb Tentacle Sea Anemone This common sea anemone has a bulb at each tentacle tip and acts as a host for Clark's anemonefish, Amphiprion Clarkii in Hong Kong waters.

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big day out

Beach babes Becky Love scopes out the best beach day trips this summer

SOUTHSIDE St. Stephen’s Beach Head through Stanley on Wong Ma Kok Road and take a sharp right turn onto Wong Ma Kok Path (St. Stephen’s College is also signposted here). There are a handful of metered parking spots at the bottom of the hill by the water. The sandy little beach has glorious views stretching back towards Stanley and The Twins hiking trails – it also faces west so expect fabulous sunsets on clear days. The beach is lifeguarded and the shallows are perfect for tiny beachgoers, so don’t forget your bucket and spade. There’s also a protected swimming area for those wanting a more substantial dip.

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Chung Hom Kok

Turtle Cove

This tucked-away neighbourhood beach is a beauty. It’s just around the corner from Stanley but its sands are a lot quieter.

Head down the leafy steps hidden on Horizon Drive. It’s a steep descent and not particularly stroller-friendly (take a sling if you have non-walkers), but it’s totally worth the effort. At the bottom you’ll find a children’s play area, barbecue pits and a compact stretch of life-guarded sand.

There’s only one little kiosk serving small snacks and drinks, so if you plan on a picnic or barbecue you’ll need to bring your own supplies. The kids will have a ball splashing in the shallows.

Slip through the gap in the barrier just past Pak Pat Shan Road at Redhill Peninsula on Tai Tam Road and be transported to Hong Kong’s version of ​The Beach. The steep path winds through mountain-side terrain, gurgling streams gush seawards and you aren’t rewarded with a glimpse of the golden sands until you round the final bend. This is not a walk for strollers, so make sure you bring a carrier or sling for tiny tots. The beach itself boasts a small kiosk, lifeguards and a protected cove for swimming. Be warned, though: parking is practically nonexistent up on the road, so a taxi is probably your best bet.

vitamin sea Hap Mun Bay A sandy destination that can only be reached by sampan, Hap Mun (or “Half Moon”) Bay is a beautiful crescent of a beah on Sharp Island. Approach one of the sampan ladies (or ​kaito ​– small ferry operators) on Sai Kung pier – a round trip should cost about $40-50 per person. Hap Mun is the smaller of the two beaches located on Sharp Island, with Kiu Tsui stretching along the western edge. The water quality is generally good at Hap Mun and there are handy family-friendly facilities including toilets, changing rooms, showers, kiosks and barbecue pits. As with all Hong Kong beaches, mid-week is much quieter than weekends.

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big day out

Long Ke Wan Secluded Long Ke Wan can only be reached by foot or boat. Visually stunning, the beach is a long way from the bustle of the city and is arguably one of Hong Kong’s best. On weekends the bay fills with junks, but its silky, icing-sugar sands tend to stay relatively quiet.

If you’re hiking, catch a green taxi from Sai Kung or from the Country Park gates at Pak Tam Chung to East Dam. With the South China Sea on your right, you’ll soon see a sign to Long Ke Wan, from where you hike down to the beach. This walk is a section of Stage 2 of the MacLehose Trail. Please note there is no kiosk or restaurant on the beach so do bring plenty of water and supplies. If you’d rather travel by water, head to Sai Kung Pier and charter a speedboat. Last summer drivers were charging up to $800/boat one way.

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vitamin sea

SAI KUNG

OUTLYING ISLANDS

Trio Beach

Hung Shing Yeh Beach

Beloved by Sai Kung’s locals, this beach can get crowded on weekends, but as it’s reasonably challenging to reach (a fivekilometre hike from the Sai Kung branch of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club or a sampan from Pak Sha Wan Pier), it tends to be quieter mid-week than many of Hong Kong’s more popular beaches. There is parking on Pak Sha Wan pier, from where you can catch one of two sampans that chug backwards and forwards all day to little Trio. Once you’ve disembarked, you’ll find a kiosk, BBQs (charcoal is available from the kiosk) and a children’s play area. The swimming area is protected and boasts a dive platform, and the beach is lifeguarded until the end of the summer.

Located on the ever-popular Lamma Island, Hung Shing Yeh Beach is a favourite amongst families in Hong Kong. Complete with barbecue pits, changing rooms, shower facilities and toilets, you have everything you need to enjoy a family day out. To get there, simply jump on a ferry from Central Pier 4 to Yung Shue Wan. Turn right when you arrive and walk along the Family Trail to the beach, which takes approximately 30 minutes.

Tai Pak Beach

Yau Ley and Millionaire’s Bay Both beaches require boat transportation, although it is possible to hike to Yau Ley from Sai Kung Country Park (however it’s a challenging hike and we wouldn’t recommend it in the heat with little ones).

Haggle a deal with the sampan ladies on Sai Kung Pier or book a speedboat through High Island Seafood restaurant on Yau Ley. The restaurant is the draw-card here: it lays on a fabulous seafood feast, after which the kids can enjoy jetty-jumping off the small pier or playing on the sand next to the restaurant.

Glorious Millionaire’s Beach is just around the corner in the next bay, and if you ask nicely the restaurant is usually willing to drop you off after lunch for an additional charge.

Take the kids on a 25-minute ferry ride, leaving from Central Pier 3 and pull up at the beautiful Discovery Bay, just steps from Tai Pak Beach. Situated next to the dining strip, the kids can have a morning of fun in the sand and surf and take a break for lunch at one of the many water side restaurants. The beach itself boasts a 400-metre long stretch of sand and a playground for the kids who want to switch up their play time. There are also changing rooms and showers available to the public so that you don’t bring beach sand home with you.

Checklist for a day at the beach with kids Swimsuits Sunscreen Beach towels Water bottles Hats Frisbee / sand toys Cover ups Snacks Flip flops / sandals

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travel

Cycle for change Join sporting stars on a charity bike ride through the Vietnamese countryside. Nicole Cooley reports

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Panoramic views from the Premier room

this autumn

I

biking shenzhen in vietnam sling

n October this year, Just Challenge will team up with Laureus Sport for Good to offer a once in a lifetime opportunity to cycle the Vietnamese coast for charity.

Participants will join Michael Vaughan, OBE and former England Cricket Captain and Victoria Pendleton, CBE and Olympic Gold Medalist in Track Cycling for Great Britain on a four day 460 km cycle ride from the Vietnamese capital city, Ho Chi Minh City to the coastal town of Nha Trang.

Just Challenge is an organisation that delivers meaningful ‘money can’t buy’ adventures to people around the world in aid of giving back to those less fortunate (just-challenge. com). To date, they have raised over one million USD for charity. Whilst the majority of their challenges are designed for corporates, sports stars or charities, they also open two challenges to the public each year.

In May, they hosted ‘Challenge Africa 2019’ in collaboration with global charitable organisation, Laureus, who uses sport to transform the lives of children and young people (laureus.com). During Challenge Africa 2019 earlier this year, 100 people of different nationalities trekked 100km through the breathtaking Drakensberg mountains in South Africa to raise USD $425,000.

While in Ho Chi Minh Spend a few days exploring the French colonial landmarks, shop for bargains at the local market (be prepared to barter), enjoy the city’s up and coming cafe culture (I’Usine is a great option) and get your Pho fix while sitting streetside on little plastic chairs.

Best time of year Although the weather is pleasant all year round, it is recommended to visit during the dry season (December- April).

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travel

This October, Just Challenge and Laureus will come together again to host ‘Challenge Vietnam 2019’ of which participation is open to the public. Challenge Vietnam is open to cyclists of all abilities but participants are recommended to have a good level of fitness and be prepared to train. Just Challenge can provide road bikes and cyclists will be divided into teams and led by experienced guides.

Alongside the challenge, the destination offers fantastic cultural experiences,

delicious food and spectacular scenery as well as being at the top of Michael Vaughan and Victoria Pendleton’s bucket list.

Participants will meet in Ho Chi Minh City on October 14 and the adventure will begin the following morning. Day one will take cyclists along 140km of the Vietnamese coast to Mui Ne. Day two continues up to the mountainous town of Dalat and day three will consist of a 105km cycle to Phan Rang. On the final day, participants

will finish with a 120km ride ending in Nha Trang. Overall the group will climb 1,500m from sea level into the mountains, through pine forests and rice paddies to finish up at some of Vietnam’s most beautiful beaches.

Vaughan is thrilled to be taking part, stating, “Laureus Sport for Good is a cause very close to my heart and I can’t wait to meet the participants in October. It’s going to be the experience of a lifetime alongside fellow Laureus Ambassador Victoria Pendleton and

The team get into training in the UK

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biking in vietnam

Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to inspire. It has the power to unite people in a way that little else does.

– Nelson Mandela, Patron of Laureus Sport for Good.

the funds raised will truly help change the lives of young people around the world.”

Just Challenge brings together inspirational people from around the world. Challenge Vietnam gives people an opportunity to jump on a bike, leave their comfort zone, rub shoulders with some of the world’s greatest sporting legends and support a global movement proving that sport truly does have the power to change the world.

Dates: October 14-19 Location: Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City Price: £1,995 (British pounds) including five nights accommodation, ground transfers, meals, experienced challenge leaders, medical support, vehicle/ mechanical support and road bike rental just-challenge.com/vietnam2019

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horoscope

Our mystical writer, editor and occasional soothsayer tells us what’s in store this month

Jan 21-Feb 19

May 22-Jun 21

Sep 24-Oct 23

Tai O is a beautiful fishing village that has continued in its own sleepy existence for years, weekend tourists notwithstanding. Now, Aquarius, I don’t expect you to find Nirvana – but I would like you to find a personal Tai O, a part of you that can remain at peace, occasional interruptions notwithstanding.

Wong Kar-wai’s film “In the Mood for Love” is set in the 1960s, when main characters Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung couldn’t say what’s in their hearts thanks to societal pressures.

But we’re not in the 60s anymore, Gemini.

Discover what you need to say and say it! If you’re beautiful and wearing a qipao at the same time, that’s just a bonus.

When I first discovered the Western District Public Cargo Working Area, known colloquially as Instagram Pier, I was amazed and inspired by its beauty (the place even has its own Wikipedia page!). What inspires you in Hong Kong, Libra? I think you should explore it more.

Feb 20-Mar 20

Jun 22-Jul 22

Oct 24-Nov 22

Do you remember Bus Uncle?

The middle-aged man became a viral hit in 2006 when he berated a fellow passenger. “You have pressure, I have pressure, we all have pressure,” he yelled at his silent target. Truth is, Bus Uncle was right – it’s just that his method of releasing that pressure wasn’t ideal. Find a better way to deal with pressure, Pisces.

Internet shopping isn’t very good in Hong Kong. Overseas brands charge the earth to deliver here, and Taobao has betrayed me one too many times.

Besides, we don’t like buying sight unseen in Hong Kong. From fruit to fish to clothes, we like to see the real thing, to weigh it in our hands, examine the quality. Getting the measure of something – or someone – is best done in real life, wouldn’t you agree?

“Silk stocking milk tea” is a potent drink, strained through a long, fine filter resembling a silk stocking.

To make it, the tea is simmered repeatedly, before it’s painstakingly filtered. That’s a lot of work going into such a seemingly simple beverage. Others may not appreciate the work you put into your milk tea, Scorpio – it’s okay to let them know.

Mar 21-Apr 20

Jul 23-Aug 22

Nov 23-Dec 21

Did you know that Ap Lei Chau is the second-most densely populated island in the world? Hong Kong Island itself comes in at seventeenth most populated place on the planet. What unexpected records do you hold, Aries?

They don’t have to be world beaters, but what can you do better than anyone else you know, no matter how big or small?

The Hong Kong-Singapore rivalry is well established.

Hongkongers think they’re better in every way, and Singaporeans are… well, they’re just wrong. I have to say that – I’m a Hongkonger. But I’m willing to admit there are some areas where my assumptions blind me to the positives. You might have these blind spots too.

I used to open my wardrobe to find mould growing on my clothes. Then I bought a dehumidifier, and my life immediately got better: no more mould! What simple change can you make that will make your life better? Identify it, then make that change. Oh, and if you don’t have a dehumidifier, get one at once.

Apr 21-May 21

Aug 23-Sep 23

Dec 22-Jan 20

Garden Bakery was one of the first in the city to make bread for the local audience. Say what you like about it, but for me, Garden Bakery’s chocolate wafers are wonderful – they summon me straight back to my childhood.

What takes you back to your happy place, Taurus? Get some today.

The best-named road in Hong Kong is Route Twisk – doesn’t it sound like it should be paved with gold bricks? The name actually came about because of a typo: it was originally termed Route TW/SK, for Tsuen Wan and Shek Kong. What a wonderful mistake. Sometimes, mistakes lead to the best circumstances. Your next error could be a Route Twisk.

Summer in Hong Kong means an air-conditioned life. We move from covered walkway to shopping mall, from shop to shop. It’s sweltering out there! Find your equivalent of the air-con life – sometimes the path of least resistance is the wisest (and coolest) path to tread.

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game

Spot the difference Spot the five differences between the two images below. Answers next issue.

Image: Western Market, Sheung Wan Answer to last month: 1. Umbrella colour turned pink 2. Sun sign on tent

4. Safeguard house not numbered

3. Mirage island

5. Dusk is arriving

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hongkongliving.com | 43

woof

Ask a vet...

Paws for thought. Dr Pauline answers your pet questions What breeds of dogs shouldn’t you have in Hong Kong?

A lot of common sense is needed when looking after dogs in a hot humid climate like Hong Kong. Dogs are very adaptable creatures: and owners who love their dogs are very adaptable too. There is no breed which I’m going to categorically say that you should not keep but if you are considering getting a new dog there are breeds which are less suited to Hong Kong. Dogs with thick, double coats such as mountain dogs, huskies, bassets, chow chows and akitas are more vulnerable to overheating.

So are breeds with short noses, like bulldogs and pugs, since they can’t pant as well to cool themselves off and their windpipes tend to be narrow which limits air intake for their size.

If you want a heat-sensitive breed, the dog will need to stay indoors with you on warm or humid days, and you’ll need to be extra cautious about exercising your dog in the heat.

My rules are simple; exercise at dawn and dusk when it’s cooler, or at night and always carry water with you on a walk.

My dog is always very nervous to go to

the vet, is there any way to make him less nervous?

There is no simple answer. Most dogs develop a fear or phobia about going to the vet at a young age and that usually stays with them for life. You and your vet and the clinic staff can help by following simple rules. Never raise your voice, bribe your dog with a multitude of treats that make your dog focus on the treat rather than the situation, as your pets ‘life saver’ in these situations be prepared to step outside the clinic yourself and watch from a distance leaving your pet with a trusty vet assistant, use relaxing sprays and aromatherapy, and if necessary talk to your vet about the use of pre visit medications like trazodone given at home an hour in advance that help relax your scared friend. Taking your pet repeatedly to the clinic when nothing happens except getting yummy treats is also a good training tool to action.

Why does my cat stick his tongue out and breathe heavily? He did it when we moved house and also when he sees other cats. Is he stressed?

What you are describing is respiratory distress,

Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com

or dyspnoea, and could be an indication of very serious or even life threatening disease.

Any veterinarian will tell you that this is one of the most serious presenting signs that we can encounter in our work. On many occasions, a cat may not even survive a trip to the vet hospital, if he does he may pass away in hospital. So to answer your question, yes stress can bring on the signs but you need to know why. Reasons for respiratory distress are multiple with the three most common being feline asthma, heart failure, and pleural disease leading to the lungs being unable to expand.

I strongly urge you to have your vet investigate this problem. M

Dr. Pauline Pets Central veterinarian answers your questions.

Walkies

Hike of the month with Rex the short-haired Weimaraner High Island Reservoir trail Stretch your legs and take your best bud on a stroll around Hong Kong’s biggest reservoir, High Island Reservoir in Sai Kung. The walk begins with a short detour around Sheung Yiu Folk Museum, an old Hakkke village, before joining the first

stage of the MacLehose Trail towards the East Dam. This Dam is part of the Geopark and offers stunning views over the water, famous hexagonal rock columns and even a sea cave, so don’t forget to pack your camera! The hike is 12.9km and takes around four hours to complete. Make sure

you bring plenty of water and dog biscuits for your furry friend and stay in the shade wherever possible.

Be aware that there are no opportunities for your furry friend to take a cooling dip on this hike so this is perhaps one for cooler days!

How to get there Dogs are not allowed on public buses so take a taxi from Sai Kung town to Pak Tam Chung, which will take around 10 minutes.

You can also drive as the area offers free parking but be sure arrive early at weekends as spaces tend to fill up fast!

Alternatively, if you choose to do this hike dog-free, take minibus number 7 or 9 or KMB bus 94 to Pak Tam Chung. M

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designing zim city hk

Blocked crossing to Kowloon Park Drive

Stop. Look. Listen Paul Zimmerman suggests how reopening pedestrian crossings could preserve Kowloon Park

G

overnment is tone-deaf. With a false majority in the Executive Council and the Legislative Council, the government is unable to hear the voices, opinions and aspirations of the community. Add a ‘government knows best’ attitude among civil servants, halfhearted use of public consultations (‘we have taken a balanced view’ and ‘further changes can be considered at the next stage’) and colonial powers to push projects through and you end up with a government prone to walking off the cliff.

Working across government silos is clumsy and takes ages. Existing practices and regulations obviously outdated are left untouched to avoid risking unintended consequences. Once a ‘line to take’ is agreed after internal circulation of new policies and plans, officials do their best not to make any changes ‘otherwise nothing gets done. The extradition bill has shown in spectacular fashion how government,

48 | hongkongliving.com

together with its advisors and supporters can find themselves opposite the people of Hong Kong. This problem affects not just political, constitutional and mainland affairs issues. There are hundreds of examples which demonstrate the systemic failure in the administration’s governing style from big to small. My office is stacked with files full of them. I randomly picked two from the top of my desk.

The Development Bureau is pushing to build a shopping mall under Kowloon Park to pay for pedestrian tunnels under the park to divert pedestrians away from overcrowded pavements along Haiphong Road. Park users love their oasis shaded by mature trees in the middle of the Tsim Sha Tsui bustle. Government advisors ignore the real problem. Haiphong Road is over used because it is the only barrier free link from Canton Road to the MTR. To cross Kowloon Park Drive further south, people are forced to use tunnels and they hate it. Re-open street

level pedestrian crossings at Peking Road, Middle Road and Salisbury Road, and the park can be saved.

Wah Fu Housing Estate is crumbling and is braced with steel beams. Redevelopment is needed. The first phase is to build on five nearby sites so that the population can be decanted and demolition can commence.

Once rebuilt the population will increase from 26,000 to 61,000 residents. But we found that the site formation and road works for the first phase did not take the ultimate population growth into account. So we asked the many bureaus and departments involved to confirm that the planned works will not hinder the future development at Wah Fu and other known projects in Pokfulam. None of them could. Next we asked the Executive Council. They referred us back to the departments. Stuck in a loop is enormously frustrating, but we can never give up.

Following the large extradition bill demonstrations Government says it recognizes the problem. In the words of the Chief Secretary: “Government is determined to ensure that the Government’s future work will be closer and more responsive to the aspirations, sentiments and opinions of the community in order to reconnect with our people.”

So I earnestly hope we wake up tomorrow to learn that Kowloon Park is saved, the streets of Tsim Sha Tsui can be crossed, a comprehensive plan for Wah Fu and Pokfulam is drawn, and democratic reforms have restarted. That Hong Kong is again the greatest city to live and work in.

Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the coconvenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.