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the really useful magazine expat-parent.com
July 2018
Sizzling summer issue! Your ultimate guide to Hong Kong in the holidays
Super staycations Bangkok with kids
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CONTENTs
ISSUE 051
2
Editor’s letter
40
Health & wellness
Hello from the hot desk
Green and lean
4 Contributors
45
Travel news
Meet the team
Luxe new opening in The Maldives
7
What’s on
50 Travel
Splashing around
Bangkok with kids
12
Things you need to know
56
Flailing spouse
Windy season
The great wardrobe giveaway
14 News
Happenings this month
17 Giveaways
Be lucky
18
Debate of the month
Breathing in
20
Book review
Lounger lizards
22
My Hong Kong
Syrian chef Maria Bizri opens up
24
Modern family
7 10
26
Bookworm
28
The big interview
How much do you know about Hong Kong?
38
30 Cover story
Home is where the heart is
36
Open day
Inside Sunshine House
34 52
Scan and visit our website expat-parent.com
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editor’s message
who’s in charge? Editorial editorial@hongkongliving.com Editor Carolynne Dear
Managing Editor Gemma Shaw
Contributing Editor Nicole Slater
Sub-Editor Kay Ross
Media Management Trainee Julianne Dionisio
Design cindy@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz
Sales & Marketing talk@hongkongliving.com Sales Director Hilda Chan
Sales and Marketing Executive Isamonia Chui
Sales and Marketing Executive Corrie Tang
Sales and Marketing Executive Johnny Wong
Accounting charles@hongkongliving.com Assistant Operations Manager Charles Lau
Publisher Tom Hilditch tom@hongkongliving.com
H
oliday season is upon us again. Already the territory is starting to empty as families disappear on well-deserved breaks across the globe. Myself and the clan will be heading to Italy for a few weeks, as well as catching up with family UK-side to celebrate my parents’ golden wedding anniversary. From last-minute packing dramas, to entertaining kids on long-haul, dealing with the jet-lag at the other end and longawaited reunions with friends and relatives, it’s an emotional time. Which is why some years we opt for a relaxing break right here in Hong Kong. From deserted mid-week beaches to myriad parking spaces at Hong Kong’s hot spots, this is a great time to be home. And if you do fancy a night away, we’ve selected some of the best staycation deals of the summer on page 30. Local tour guide and expat Amy Overy has revealed where she’ll be taking her kids this summer and our hard-working editorial team has compiled an enormous list of ‘diary dates’ if you do get stuck for ideas. And if you do get a spare moment, turn to page 28 for the Expat Parent Great Big Summer Quiz! Answers on a postcard… Happy holidays!
Contact us Admin: 3568 3722 | Editorial: 2776 2773 | Advertising: 2776 2772 Published by Hong Kong Living Ltd, L1 Kai Wong Commercial Building, 222 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong Printer Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong
HONG KONG hongkongliving.com Expat Parent is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Expat Parent cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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contributors
Ifat Kafry Hindes
Amelia Sewell
Marianne Rogerson
Reveals Hong Kong’s healthy eating venues on page 40.
Writes about the importance of reading books (rather than Snapchat) on page 24.
flew the family to Bangkok for this month’s travel feature on page 50.
My happy place is… with friends whom I adore and family that makes my heart melt, a room full of love! The best way to start the day is… the kids climbing into bed for cuddles and kisses - I wouldn’t have it any other way. What I’m most looking forward to this summer is… quality family time.
My happy place is… Italy, with an Aperol, a book and nowhere to go.
My happy place is… a beautiful beach at sunset with a happy-hour mojito in hand.
The best way to start the day is… waking up without an alarm.
The best way to start the day is… with a cup of coffee and a beautiful view.
What I’m most looking forward to this summer is… celebrating my glorious mother’s 70th birthday in Paris.
What I’m most looking forward to this summer is… hanging at the beach with the family.
Want to write for Expat Parent Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com
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what’s on
Diary dates
FROM JULY
Core returns
Tai Po’s big fun waterpark is back! It re-opens this month with with giant water slides, trampolines, slipand-slide runways and more. Plus there’s a cafeteria, picnic benches and a car park adjacent to the attraction. For ages six and up, six to 12 year olds must be accompanied by an adult. Lockers are available for $20. 10am-5.30pm, Tai Po Inflatable Water Park, Lake Egret Nature Park, Tai Po. Shuttle buses available from Tai Po MTR, book in advance. corehk.net
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what’s on The Grand Theatre at the Hong Kong Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui and Hong Kong City Hall in Central. cof.gov.hk/2018/en/#1231
UNTIL SEP 2
Ocean Park Summer Carnival Featuring animal-themed parades and amazing shows every hour and over 100 exotic Caribbean food and drink specialities. Ocean Park, Aberdeen. oceanpark.com.hk
JUL 1
21st Anniversary of the Establishment of the Hong Kong SAR vs. Annual July 1 March Splash-down at Cityplaza, until Jul 15
UNTIL JUL 15
UNTIL AUG 12
Cityplaza is hosting this stage event in conjunction with Disney Pixar. Meet Mr Incredible from The Incredibles, Woody, Buzz and Jessie from Toy Story and Joy and Sadness of Inside Out. Lvl 2, Cityplaza, 18 Taikoo Shing Road, Taikoo Shing, Hong Kong Island. cityplaza.com
Daily stage performances by some of the leading Chinese Opera companies, plus symposiums, Chinese Opera film screenings and exhibitions. At various venues, including
Big Splash Summer Party
Chinese Opera Festival
Enjoy the day off work and join in the celebrations, including parades, flag-raising ceremonies and cultural performances around the city. Or join the annual July 1 protest march - this year the starting point is at East Point Road, Causeway Bay.
JUL 4
American Independence Day Celebrate in true American style with a barbecue, beer and a party. 6pm. $388. Lily & Bloom, 5-6F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central.
UNTIL AUG 10 Hanzi Exhibition
JUL 6-8
Over 100 Hanzi works, plus Hanzi master talks, design workshops, parent-child workshops and free movie screenings inviting the public to experience different applications of Hanzi in communication design. (Hanzi are Chinese characters of logograms used in the writing of Chinese and Japanese.) Qube 2/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central
Hong Kong Bakery Carnival Bakery workshops, parent-child activities, food tastings and on-site demonstrations by master chefs. Adults $80, children $40. Hall 5F, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. hkticketing.com.hk/events/WCHKBAK0718
UNTIL AUG 31
JUL 7
Boasting two venues this year, expect megasize inflatable slides, rubber duck-filled pools and other fun, plus a doggy-friendly pool at the Whitehead venue. BBQ By The Beach, Siu Lam, Castle Peak Road, Tuen Mun, NT; or Whitehead BBQ, Whitehead, Ma On Shan, NT. bbqbeach.com.hk
Explore the galleries in Hong Kong’s historic Pedder Building and learn more about modern and contemporary art. English tour 11am-1pm; Mandarin tour 2.30-4.30pm. $280, walk-ins $320. Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central.
Pedder Building Gallery Tour
BBQ & Water Playground
All made up, Aug 12
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what’s on JUL 14
Yoga & Brekkie Yoga with a difference. Flow to hip-hop beats with Natalie Soderstrom and Aleksandra Milewicz. Smoothie bowls provided by Off the Chain Bowls. 9.45am-12noon. $300. The Hive, 33-35 Hillier Street, Sheung Wan.
JUL 18-24
Hong Kong Book Fair A week-long event organised by the HK Trade Development Council, including publishers’ exhibits and plenty of books! Adults $25, children $10. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai.
JUL 21-22
Beauty and the Beast on Ice
entrepreneurship. Free. NakedHub, 7F Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan.
The Russian Ice Stars are coming to Hong Kong with this dazzling interpretation of the muchloved fairytale, Beauty and the Beast. Please note there is Cantonese and English narration, check before you book. Star Hall, Kowloon Bay International Trade & Exhibition Centre, Kowloon. premier.hkticketing.com
JUL 14
JUL 27- 28
Disney openings Hong Kong Disneyland has launched Moana: A Homecoming Celebration. The 20-minute live stage show takes place daily in Adventureland. It also marks the beginning of a five-year expansion programme at the park. Next year the park welcomes Ant-Man and The Wasp, the second Marvel ride experience at the resort. In 2021, a Frozen-themed area will launch, starring Queen Elsa and Princess Anna. Hong Kong Disneyland is open daily throughout the summer. hongkongdisneyland.com
JUL 7 - AUG 26 SummerFest 2018
Relax and have fun, with outdoor art and light installations, garden games and a kids’ playground. Free admission. Central Harbourfront Event Space. summerfestcentralharbourfront.hk
Moana is now live at Hong Kong Disneyland
ARCH: En Route A Holistic Wellness Festival, featuring meditation, healing workshops and wellness brands. 11am-7pm. Free. Central Harbourfront Event Space. arch-enroute.com
JUL 14
Open Air Cinema Club: Hook The Hive Sai Kung is showing the sequel to the popular story of Peter Pan at their open air cinema. 7:30pm. $100 members, $120 visitors. The Hive Sai Kung, 5 Tai Mong Tsai Road, Sai Kung, thehivesaikung.com.hk
3rd Asia International Comedy Festival With some of the top comedians in Asia, including Garron Chiu, Evans Musoka and Byron Murphy. 9pm. $300. TakeOut Comedy Club, 34 Elgin Street, Central. takeoutcomedy.com
JUL 27-31
Ani-Com and Games Fair The hottest event in the digital entertainment, comics, animation, video games and toys and collectibles arena. $35 tickets available onsite and in advance at 7-11 or Circle K convenience stores. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. ani-com.hk
JUL 14
ArlixMeet Teen Entrepreneurs Conference A conference run by teenagers and young people from around the world who are interested in learning about startups and Read all about it, Jul 18-24
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what’s on
Holiday fun Local tour guide Amy Overy shares her top trips with kids
Amy Overy and daughter Lily exploring Sha Tin Adventure Cycling Arena
Summerfest will be back in the Central Harbourfront event space for sports and family fun activities - we are hoping for the inflatable waterside again! It runs from July 7 to Aug 26. summerfest-centralharbourfront.hk For nature and ocean explorers, the World Wildlife Fund in Hong Kong is running summer educational courses for children aged six to nine in a number of their venues. wwf.org.hk Mix culture and craft with a visit to Lai Chi Kok Park (Mei Foo MTR) for its Chinese gardens don’t forget paper and crayons for the brass rubbings. Join a Hong Kong Greeters group tour - Hong Kong Island Peak to Piers is great for newbies, with an overview of the Island, skip-the-line 10 expat-parent.com
access at the Peak, a tour of the food markets with a small snack, a look at Old Town Central and Man Mo Temple. Mini foodies on your hands? Starting this month, we’ve launched a Grass Routes Vegetarian Food & Culture tour, which delves into Hong Kong’s fascinating cultural and food heritage in Kowloon and the New Territories tuck into yummy veggie dim sum, snacks and desserts while exploring off-the-beaten-track locations such as Wong Tai Sin Temple, Nan Lian Gardens and Tai Po Police Station. Active littlies will enjoy a trip to one of the many road safety bicycle training parks around town. Hire bikes in Sha Tin Park and pick from two parks - beginners will enjoy Sha Tin Bicycle Safety Park while advanced riders will
love Sha Tin Adventure Cycling Arena. You can also hire bikes with child seats. Hit the water at Lower Cheung Sha beach there are changing facilities, shallow waters for petit paddlers and plenty of restaurants to choose from. We love the Lantau Grocer, who can prepare a BBQ on the beach for you (advance booking required). facebook.com/lantaugrocer For a full-day (and night) of adventure, set sail from Central Ferry Piers for Cheung Chau island. Sai Yuen Farm has camping and an adventure park - we loved their treetop canopy walk and their Segways. Book in advance on the website - I will also be putting some group tours together to visit this summer, so check us out at hkgreeters.com
BOOK NOW
Chocolate fun at the Food Expo, Aug 16
AUG 16
SEPT 5-9
SEP 11-16
SEP 19
Sample gourmet treats from across the globe and watch live demonstrations by international experts, including Michelin-starred chefs. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, hktdc.com/hkfoodexpo
Foamy fun with Louis Pearl, the Amazing Bubbleman. Think square bubbles, trampoline bubbles, flying UFO bubbles and even people inside bubbles - prepare to be amazed. Drama Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Wan Chai, hkticketing.com
The world-famous show that condenses all seven Harry Potter books (plus a live game of Quidditch) into 70 hilarious minutes. Expect endless costumes, brilliant songs and ridiculous props. Drama Theatre, Hong Kong Theatre for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai, hkticketing.com
This is the first time the awardwinning US band has played Hong Kong since 2013. This time around they’ll be performing tracks from their 2017 album, Wonderful Wonderful. Audience members must be aged 12+, AsiaWorld Expo Arena, Lantau, hkticketing.com
Food Expo
The Amazing Bubbleman
Potted Potter
The Killers
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things to know
1
Hong Kong’s worst typhoons occurred in: • 1874 - more than 2,000 people were killed or injured • 1906 - 10,000 people, or five per cent of the population, perished
nix hoe P S HM sunk 906 in 1
• 1937 - 11,000 people were killed and much damage was caused by an 18-foot tidal wave • Typhoon Mary in 1960 - referred to as “Bloody Mary”, 100 people died and freight ships were hurled out of the water • Typhoon Wanda in 1962 - 72,000 people were left homeless
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• Typhoon Rose in 1971 - 88 passengers on a Macau ferry drowned when it sank • Typhoon Ellen in 1983 - 1,600 people were left homeless, 26 ships ran aground, and one ship sank, killing nine young sailors • Typhoon York in 1999 - a T10 was hoisted for a record 11 hours and two people died.
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The word “typhoon” is said to derive from the Chinese tai fung, meaning “big wind”. In other parts of the world they are referred to as hurricanes or tropical cyclones.
A typhoon requires an ocean temperature of 26.4 degrees Celsius spanning a depth of at least 50m for it to develop. Hong Kong’s typhoon season runs from June through to October.
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The Hong Kong Observatory issues a warning signal if a tropical cyclone approaches within 800kms of Hong Kong and poses a threat of deteriorating conditions.
The Hong Kong Observatory began issuing warnings in 1884. Signals were hoisted over Victoria Harbour and supplemented with the firing of guns. The official term “hoist” has now been replaced with “issue”.
Things you need to know Typhoons Hong Kong has entered “big wind” season
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m fro m r sto e the abov
By 1973, the 10-level warning system had been reduced to a fivelevel system: T1, T2, T8, T9 and T10. When a warning higher than a T3 is issued, schools close, government agencies shut down and non-essential workers are released from work.
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In the 1960s there were 42 signal stations around the territory. The last to be decommissioned was on Cheung Chau in January, 2002.
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ato nH o o h Typ 2017
n hoo Typ nte e Vic 12 20
From 2009, the Hong Kong Observatory began classifying “typhoons” (a wind speed up to 149kms/hr), “severe typhoons” (wind speed of more than 150kms/hr) and “super typhoons” (wind speed of more than 190kms/hr).
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news
A tale of two reservoirs
Drought-like conditions edged into Hong Kong in May as the territory basked in record-breaking temperatures. But in June the weather broke and the first strong wind signal of the year was raised as storm Ewiniar blew in. The T3 also
brought torrential rain and flooding to the territory and reservoir levels bounced back up. Pictured is Tai Tam reservoir in the last week of May (main picture) and again in the last week of June (inset).
Breaking the drought
Primary moves at AISHK The Australian International School Hong Kong (AISHK) welcomes Dr. Brendan Kean as its new head of primary. Dr. Kean will be taking up the role at the end of this month ready for the school’s third term of the 2018 academic year. An Australian national, he has lived in Hong Kong for the past ten years, holding positions in a variety of international schools, including The Canadian 14 expat-parent.com
International School and Discovery Bay International School. He moves to AISHK from English Schools Foundation Clearwater Bay School, where he has been school vice principal since 2014. Kean replaces David Shirley, who has headed up the AISHK primary division for the last 12 years. Shirley will be taking up a new role as founding principal of Avendale International Kindergarten. aishk.edu.hk
The primary section will be lead by Dr. Brendon Kean
news
Summer suppers Sunday nights are family nights at Mercato this summer. The eight-course sharingplate menu is available on Sunday evenings and includes summery signatures such as homemade ricotta with strawberry, olive oil and grilled bread; char-grilled octopus; warm potato salad; wood-oven-roasted whole sea bass with white wine, tomato and chilli; plus luscious Italian tiramisu to finish, $398/person (minimum of four people). mercato-international.com Meanwhile, TokyoLima has launched a new kids’ brunch menu and colourful Kids’ Corner stocked with drawing paper and crayons to keep dinky diners fully occupied. Additions to the kids’ menu include a Sweet Station and a Popcorn machine. The kids’ brunch menu offers two main dishes with a taste of Nikkei cuisine – think tuna sushi, slow-cooked pork belly, and soba noodles, with juice, ice cream and sorbet for pudding, $128/child. Adults can enjoy the Omacasa four-course brunch, with sharing dishes such as Ki-mo-chi fried chicken, Peruvian tacu tacu fried rice, grilled cod and Picanha grilled rump steak; there is also a ceviche bar. The adult brunch menu costs $398/person;
Sweet treats at TokyoLima
an additional free-flow drinks package includes a Bloody Mary station, Nagano sake, prosecco, Asahi beer, wine and the
cocktail of the week and costs $180/person. tokyolima.hk
Hydration boost for sun-weary skin Luxury Hong Kong spa Sense of Touch has launched Comfort Line, a brand new range of Italian products and treatments. The soothing Hydramemory treatment includes extractions, exfoliation and a relaxing head and shoulder massage. The deeply hydrating antioxidant treatment for face, neck and decollete leaves the skin silky soft and restores compactness and luminosity. If you’re looking to smooth mature skin, the anti-aging Sacred Nature treatment nourishes and detoxifies, using products that conform to Ecocert (European organic certification) guidelines. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive. The Sublime Active Lift with Eye Treatment is an anti-aging redensifying and lifting facial for the face and neck. It uses a two-phase peel-off mask and eye-zone treatment to reduce puffiness and improve the appearance of dark circles and fine lines. senseoftouch.com.hk The new range of treatments at Sense of Touch
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news
Kellett appoints new principal British International School, Kellett, has announced Mark Steed will be taking the helm as school principal and chief executive officer from the beginning of the 2019/20 academic year. He succeeds Ann McDonald, who will be retiring at the end of the next academic year after 22 years heading up the Kowloon Bay and Pok Fu Lam-based school. Steed has 30 years’ experience teaching in UK and global schools, as well as 17 years as a school principal. Over the last three years he has been director at not-for-profit Jumeirah English Speaking School (JESS) in Dubai. Previously to that he was principal of Berkhamsted Schools Group in Hertfordshire, UK, and headmaster of Kelly College in Devon, UK. He is currently chairman of British Schools in Dubai and secretary of the Headmasters’ Conference International Division. “I’m thrilled to be taking on the role,” he said. “Both the prep and senior schools have a fantastic reputation, in Hong Kong and beyond,
and I’m excited to be joining an outstanding team of educators.” Kellett has also announced the appointment of Joe Alsop as head of senior school, who will be taking up the role this autumn from his current position as headmaster of St
Eye on the ball
Granules of goodness
Kellett will be welcoming a new head of school
Augustine’s Catholic School, Wiltshire, UK. Kellett is a through-train school, educating over 1,300 students from four to 18 years, and follows the English National Curriculum. kellettschool.com
Hong Kong Netball Association (HKNA) has opened early registration for its NetFest HK 2018 competition, taking place Sept 15-16. Categories include Mixed U8 and U10, Girls U13, U15, U17 and U21, Open Ladies and Men and Fast 5s U18 Ladies and Men. The festival takes place at Wong Chuk Hang Recreational Ground on Southside and entrance costs $100/team. HKNA is also collecting donations of netball trainers, netballs, team kit, full sets of bibs and sportswear for Diepsfoot Combined School near Johannesburg, South Africa. netball.org.hk Going green with coffee power
HKNA is calling all young netballers
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Nespresso is pressing customers to recycle their coffee capsules as part of a sustainability campaign in partnership with local charity Food Angel. The aluminium in the capsules is “infinitely recyclable” according to the company. If recycled, waste capsules can be taken to a local plant, shredded and sent to a scrap-metal collector for re-melting. Meanwhile, the residual coffee grounds are separated from the capsules and taken to a local farm in the New Territories and used as compost on crops.
The coffee specialist has also pledged to make a monthly donation of vegetables to Food Angel, which runs a food rescue initiative, creating hot meals from waste food and distributing it to underprivileged local communities. To take part, simply return bags of over 30 waste capsules to your local Nespresso boutique and receive a coffee stamp. The stamps can be collected for redemption of rewards. Special recycling bags are available in-store for 50c, the proceeds from which go directly to Food Angel. nespresso.com
giveaways WIN HERE! Click the Giveaways tab on our website: hongkongliving.com
Porcelain toy cars
Up for grabs: 30 porcelain toy cars painted by disabled children From: The Society for the Relief of Disabled Children (SRDC) - a local children’s charity whose mission is to provide medical, surgical, rehabilitation and educational services to disabled children in Hong Kong. They support the Duchess of Kent Children’s Hospital in the emerging areas of child health, not readily available in the public healthcare system. srdc.org.hk
DOCK E30 speaker
Up for grabs: A DOCK E30 speaker, valued at $4,500 From: CY Audio Visual Solutions. The company provide unique and innovative AV solutions for homes, schools and performance venues. With Airsound™, audiences can enjoy a balanced, undistorted stereo sound within a 160 degree angle coverage. The DOCK E30 speaker features a wireless charger and a docking groove. cyavs.com
Tickets to the 3rd Asia International Comedy Festival
Up for grabs: Two pairs of tickets for the 3rd Asia International Comedy Festival. From: The TakeOut Comedy Club, the first full-time comedy club in Asia, offering up a whole load of laughs. The 3rd Asia International Comedy Festival features acts from some of the top comedians in Asia, including Garron Chiu, Evans Musoka and Byron Murphy. The shows are at 9pm on July 27 and 28. takeoutcomedy.com
Dinner for two
Up for grabs: A dining voucher for two at A.O.C. Eat & Drink From: A.O.C., which stands for the French term appellation d’origine contrôlée - serves up a variety of seafood, meat and cheese dishes perfect for sharing, by chef Stéphane Guillas. The seasonal summer menu includes small bites such as mussels and homemade farmhouse pork rillettes, and a butcher’s corner with a variety of meats. aoceatndrink.com
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debate of the month
Keeping it covered Stretchy leggings, baggy tee-shirts – how long is it still OK to be pulling on your maternity wardrobe post-partum? “I’ve just had baby number three and it looks like I won’t be giving up maternity wear any time soon!” Fiona
“I wished I’d bought more; I had no idea it took this long to ‘bounce back’. I thought I’d be wearing my old wardrobe again after a couple of weeks...” Anna
“Keep that weight in check! I was back in my pre-pregnancy jeans by week four, postpartum.” Emma
Um, forever?! Christine
“Really can’t wait to fit into ‘normal’ clothes again. I want to get back into my skinny jeans! Help!” Alex
Elastic waistbands, what a revelation! Joy
Who cares? It’s your body. Tia
“Forever. Unfortunately I didn’t realise how great maternity clothes are until I was actually pregnant. So many wasted years…” Kate
“Sixteen years. Just carry a water bottle and act like you’re dashing off to a yoga class if spotted!” Sam
“My future has yoga pants, stretchy tee-shirts and hoodies written all over it.” Amanda
Thank God for activewear! Jo
“I’m not revealing anything incriminating. Let’s just say thank goodness for Lycra.” Robyn
We want to hear from you! Next month: Home for the holidays - is it worth the trip?
Email your views to editorial@hongkongliving.com
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book review
Out this month
Stretch out and relax with a pile of books, says bookseller Ursula Huber*
Intrigue
A Legacy of Spies John Le Carre
Summer wouldn’t be summer without a Le Carre on the pool bar. After 25 years, George Smiley of The British Secret Service, is back. He’s living out his retirement in France when a letter from the service summons him back to London - his Cold War past has come back to claim him. Interweaving past with present, Le Carre spins a plot as ingenious as its predecessors: The Spy Who Came In From The Cold and Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy.
The Killing Habit,
The House Swap
Mark Billingham
Rebecca Fleet
Pets on suburban London streets are being stalked and detective inspector Tom Thorne has been tasked with catching the notorious killer of domestic cats. Relying on colleague Nicola Tanner to help him close the case, Thorne is hoping to stop the killer in his tracks before he starts hunting humans. But it’s a journey that will bring the pair face-to-face with a murderer who will tear their lives apart.
When Caroline and Francis receive an offer to house swap, they jump at the chance. They’ve worked hard to rebuild their marriage after a tumultuous few years and they hope to reconnect as a couple. But they arrive to discover a stark, sinister and empty home. Gradually Caroline begins to uncover signs of life, but they are signs of her life. It seems the person they have swapped with is someone she used to know; someone she is desperate to leave in her past. And that person is now inside her own home...
Positive vibes
The Keeper of Lost Things
The Lido
Ruth Hogan
Libby Page
Anthony Peardew has been rescuing lost objects since the death of his fiancee several decades before. When he passes away, he charges his assistant Laura with reuniting his carefully collated collection of treasures with their rightful owners.
Elderly widow Rosemary and lonely, 26 yearold Kate unite to save their local Lido from redevelopment into luxury apartments. They are determined to show the greedy developers that the pool is more than just a place to swim, it’s the heart of the community.
*Ursula Huber is founder of Kidnapped Bookshop, Sai Kung.
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The President is Missing James Patterson & Bill Clinton, Bringing together a master storyteller and unprecedented insider information on the machinations of the White House, The President Is Missing is already caught up in a TV bidding war. President Jonathan Duncan is about to be impeached, squaring off against a conservative House determined to remove him from office over a risky foreign policy manoeuvre he made to save the country from cyber-attack. “It’s been a lot of fun,” said Clinton of the twelve-month writing process.
Eleanor Oliphant Is Completely Fine Gail Honeyman Eleanor lives a simple life, wearing the same clothes to work every day and catching the same bus each morning and evening. But one simple act of kindness shatters the walls she has built around her - Eleanor Oliphant is, in fact, far from being completely fine.
book review
Hong Kong childhoods First-time author Stefan Gannon explains what inspired his children’s story collection, The Green Door
(Carol Jones) is set in 1930s Malaysia. A 16-year-old girl dreams of marriage to her sweetheart, but is sold as a concubine to a rich old man desperate for an heir. Trapped and
The stories are set in Victorian England, a place and time in which nature played a large part in people’s lives. Many people in Hong Kong don’t have this sort of contact with nature, which is why I didn’t set the stories here. I also like the idea of readers having to stretch their imagination. So setting the stories in an English village over one hundred years ago I hope encourages creative thinking.
I like the idea of readers having to stretch their imagination.
A taste of home with these new releases The Concubine’s Child
I wanted to leave my family a written record of the stories I told my own children when they were young. Curiously, as I wrote, they evolved into different tales but they are still central to the importance of treating children as individuals. My children and a few of their now-grown-up friends encouraged me to publish them.
I wanted to make the point that the issues people have to deal with these days haven’t really changed over time. Living in Hong Kong has taught me that such issues are universal. So to emphasise that, I set the stories in another place and in another time. I think there is comfort in seeing that what may appear to be difficult questions to young people now have actually always been there and that generation after generation has found a way of answering them.
Viva Asia
bullied by her captor’s spiteful wife, Yu Lan attempts to escape with her baby son. Four generations later, her great-grandson, Nick, returns to Malaysia searching for the truth. Jones richly depicts a vanished world of abandoned ghost houses, inquisitive monkeys and smoky temples. Dana Stabenow takes us back to fourteenth-century Beijing in Silk and Song. Children’s author Stephan Gannon
I hope the stories aren’t seen to be ‘moralising’. They’re intended to pose questions to young readers and maybe answer some of their own questions. What’s a stranger? Is grieving OK? How do you help someone who has bottled up their emotions? I had to get away from home to break the back of the first draft. So I went to a hotel and worked throughout the day and the evening. I find the ideas come quickly if I am that disciplined. I treat writing as any other form of work that requires focus. As a child myself, I enjoyed classics like The Wind In The Willows, Winnie The Pooh and The Hobbit. I read similar stories to my own children. At the moment I’m reading a selection of PG Wodehouse Jeeves & Wooster stories and The Silk Roads by Peter Frankopan. Looking ahead, I’m hoping to add to The Green Door and I’m also in the middle of writing an historical novel. It’s a story of adventure and personal growth about a young man who has to leave Ireland for the Far East at the end of the 18th century.
Johanna is the adolescent daughter of the legendary trader, Marco Polo. After her father’s death, she discovers that lineage counts for little in the disintegrating court of the Khan and that her destiny lies with her grandfather in Venice. She takes to the Silk Road - the storied collection of trading routes linking the silks of Cathay, the spices of the Indies and the jewels of the Indus with the markets of the West. But will she survive the thieves, warlords and pillaging armies along the way? In The Leavers, Lisa Ko tells the story of Deming Guo, a boy who comes into his own when everything he loves is taken away from him. His mother Polly is an undocumented Chinese immigrant living in the US. One morning, she leaves for her job in a nail salon - and never returns home. Deming is adopted by a pair of well-meaning professors, is moved from the Bronx to a small town upstate and is renamed Daniel Wilkinson. Set in New York and China, The Leavers examines borders, belongings and survival. In First Confession, Hong Kong’s last governor, Chris Patten, has penned a memoir from his life as a self-confessed “wet European” from the British parliament to Hong Kong and beyond. This is a meditation on personal and political identity which, in an age of simplification, shows the complexities of both.
The Green Door by Stefan Gannon is available from Bookazine stores, bookazine.com
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PEOPLE
Maria Bizri in her kitchen with daughters Maya and Leia
My Hong Kong – the cook Maria Bizri is the charismatic founder of Pomegranate Kitchen. She tells Carolynne Dear how a Syrian childhood led to restaurant success in Hong Kong I grew up in the Middle East, although I was born in Southampton in the UK. My parents had been living there for a while but moved to Lebanon when I was quite young. When the Lebanese civil war started in 1975 we moved to Syria – I stayed there until I was in my late teens. Then I moved to Montreal, Canada, where I went to university. I have been travelling around Europe and Asia ever since I graduated. My family lived to eat. Food was always an integral part of our family life. My grandparents showed me love through feeding me and my numerous friends and cousins, and 22 expat-parent.com
so did my mother and aunts. I don’t think I ever entertained the thought that life and love could be separated from eating and feeding. After university I worked in advertising, marketing and event management. But I was always cooking, entertaining and feeding. It wasn’t until I arrived in Hong Kong that I started cooking professionally. I landed here in August 2010 and felt instantly at home. I’ve only ever lived in one place, Headland Road on Southside. This has been my favourite home to date, despite having lived in much bigger and newer places before Hong Kong. The views,
the charm and the neighbourhood are all unbeatable. I just love Repulse Bay, Stanley and Wong Chuk Hang. Pomegranate was conceived on the balcony of my Headland Road home. After many long lunches and being asked to cater for “a few friends”, the business was born and started growing. I cooked out of my apartment (and those of my lovely neighbours) for the first year-and-a-half, and then my husband – who found he never got to eat any of the food being prepared – sourced the industrial location in Wong Chuk Hang where Pomegranate lives today.
a
PEOPLE It wasn’t hard to set up. If Hong Kong is anything, it’s a commercial city. Running a restaurant, or a catering business, is difficult anywhere. I think I’d have the same issues in London (where we are hoping to set up soon) as in Hong Kong or anywhere else. It was no harder than anywhere else. Being Middle Eastern, I grew up with lots of fresh vegetables and lots of lamb. So I guess it’s no surprise that Pomegranate is wellknown for both these things. Think big, hearty plates of salad, vegetarian dishes, and lots of lentils, chickpeas and lamb - chops, shoulder, leg, you name it. It’s tough witnessing what’s happening in Syria today. To see a great country, so rich in culture, being smashed to rubble and its people become refugees is just heartbreaking. My mother has been doing a lot of work with refugee children in Lebanon (where there are over 1.2 million refugees already) and I have tried to support her schools through a few fundraisers. I’m also working closely with the Cook For Syria initiative. Check it out on Instagram: @pomegranatekitchenhk and @cookforsyria. It’s a fantastic project. Syria has an incredible food culture and history and this is being celebrated around the world
by chefs and cooks through supper clubs raising funds for UNICEF, which operates inside Syria. Cook For Syria has published two books so far and we are extremely proud to be part of their second publication, Bake For Syria.
Pomegranate was conceived on the balcony of my Southside home.
"The Twins" is my favourite hike, but definitely not in the summer and certainly not after a big night. I don’t shop much, although I find Causeway Bay and the masses of people crossing the road with you very exciting. Where do I eat out? Now there’s a tough question. There are so many amazing places to eat in Hong Kong. For local food, my top three are the Jaffa Road North Point Cooked Food Market, Qi House of Sichuan in Wan Chai, and of course Din Tai Fung. Actually, these three places have become my comfort food destinations… I no longer resort to a cheese toastie with pickles! What I love most about Hong Kong is its energy. From the moment I landed, it took me along with it. It was definitely love at first sight for me.
When I’m not working, I love the beach. The Pulse at Repulse Bay has been a welcome addition. We live close to South Bay beach and used to spend a lot of time there, but it’s not easy getting nibbles and drinks once you’re down on the sand and you end up having to struggle down the steep steps with a picnic. The Pulse has made the whole beach experience a lot easier.
What drives me nuts? The humidity. My hair really doesn’t like it. Bake For Syria curated by Lily Vanilli is a collection of recipes to support UNICEF’s work with children in Syria. It’s available at amazon.co.uk with delivery to Hong Kong.
Maria's is avail book online nable ow
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Modern family
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modern family
Holiday heaven Banish boredom with a book, says Amelia Sewell. Here’s how
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s the summer holidays approach, thought turns to how to keep those little minds occupied for a string of long, hot weeks. Plonking them in front of television only gets you so far before the guilt kicks in; summer camps are wonderful but come at a price; and, as the rainy season beds in, outdoor activities risk being abandoned. So what else have you got in your arsenal of entertainment? Call me crazy – or out of date – but I am suggesting this should be the summer to fall in love with books.
Turn the tables on technology - put down your phone and pick up a book.
If you need a reason, I have a great one. It is a statistic, but it is a fascinating one so do not turn the page just yet. Here you go: In 2013, the Melbourne Institute of Applied Economic and Social Research announced their findings that reading to four- and five-year-olds, three to five times a week, puts their reading ability six months ahead. Better still, reading to children six or seven times a week puts them one year ahead of those who are not read to at all. In the world of child literacy, this is a huge piece of information. Perhaps the more crucial thing is the legacy this creates; by bringing reading into children’s daily routines from an early age, it sews the seed for a lifelong love affair with books, words and worlds beyond their own. It also helps to propel them through the often-challenging period when they learn to read for themselves. So if you have any under-12s nipping at your ankles this summer, here are some ways to camouflage a bit of literacy into their
holiday without them thinking they are back in the classroom. 1. Find 10 minutes. That is all it needs. No herculean effort or long-drawn-out sessions. You just need 10 minutes to sit down and read to your child. Make it a ritual in your day. This does not have to be bedtime if something else works better. Aside from everything else, this can be a wonderful bonding time between parent and child. 2. Start young; the same research found that reading to even younger children greatly improved their development, including those who have yet to learn to talk. If you have a wriggling toddler who is reluctant to sit still for long, read to them as they have their evening bottle. 3. From the sublime to the ridiculous, it does not matter what you read as long as your children are interested in it. And this should be fun so there is no need to be a stickler for pointing out grammar or only choosing highbrow subject matter if that is not what they want. Unless they ask for War and Peace, leave it on the shelf. Find something that interests them – better still, let them choose it - even if you think it is beneath their age group. Pay attention to their preferences and be aware that their tastes will change. 4. When encouraging your children to read on their own, again the subject matter is not important; it could be football facts, Guinness World Records, comics, reading out birthday cake recipes, writing the shopping list or reading emails from grandparents – it all counts. 5. Show your own love of reading. Set an example. Children become fascinated by our phones and iPads because they see us using them so frequently and they wonder what all the fuss is about. The same can be done for books. Turn the tables on technology - put down your phone and pick up a book. 6. Take a trip to the library. Hong Kong Central Library has over two million books sitting there waiting to be read - for free! It’s like a shopping trip but without your credit card; my husband’s favourite type.
7. If your child is wholly reluctant to read anything, then you should know that audiobooks are not cheating. Yes, ideally children would benefit from seeing words on a page but what is more important is the chance to visit many different worlds and hear many different voices. The additional benefit of audiobooks is that often they serve to grab the child’s interest in a certain author, which leads them to take an interest in reading the original book. 8. Discussing a book once you have come to the end will help children to express their thoughts and understanding. There is no need to kill the momentum and dissect it midway through – unless they want to – but an informal discussion afterwards is a chance for them to process what they have heard and read and, for the older ones, perhaps start a broader conversation on subjects that would not normally arise. And lastly, if the research statistic alone is not enough to convince you that it is worth reading to your child, here is what Einstein had to say on the subject: “If you want your children to be intelligent, read them fairy tales. If you want them to be more intelligent, read them more fairy tales.” And no one likes to disagree with him.
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THE big QUIZ
The Expat Parent BIGSUMMERQUIZ
Give Google the flick and challenge your grey cells
1) What will we be celebrating on July 1?
18) What is the name of Hong Kong’s mini-constitution?
19) After whom is Victoria Harbour named? 20) Who were the first and last Governors of Hong Kong? 21) Who is the current Chief Executive? 22) What is a “dai pai dong”? 23) What nickname was attributed to Allan Zeman when he took over as chairman of Ocean Park in 2003? 24) What does “Hong Kong” mean?
2) Under which Chinese dynasty was Hong Kong Island ceded to the United Kingdom in 1842?
9) Name the three types of Hong Kong taxi.
3) In which year did the Star Ferry start sailing the harbour?
11) What does the acronym ESF stand for?
4) Whose statues still remain in Statue Square? 5) Who is Des Voeux Road named after? 6) Which is the highest category of typhoon? 7) What was the name of Hong Kong’s original airport?
8) Under which level of typhoon are Hong Kong’s preschools shut? 28 expat-parent.com
10) What does the acronym SAR stand for?
25) Name these three popular dim sum…
12) Which flower is featured on the Hong Kong flag? 13) What is the population of Hong Kong, to the nearest million? 14) Hong Kong Island was ceded to the British “in perpetuity”. How long were the New Territories ceded for? 15) How many islands (over 500sq m) make up Hong Kong? 16) Where is Hong Kong’s famous Bun Festival held every year? 17) What is Cantonese for Dragon Boat Day?
26) What are the two official languages of Hong Kong? 27) Which single-digit number is considered unlucky in Chinese? 28) Where on Hong Kong Island was the Union Jack flag first raised by the British?
THE big QUIZ
29) Which famous Hollywood movie was filmed here in 1955?
45) Who was the last British royal to visit Hong Kong?
46) How did the MacLehose trail get its name?
30) What major event hit the city in 2003? 31) How long has the Hong Kong Sevens been running? 32) What should you eat on your birthday to ensure a long life, according to local tradition?
35) How many public (general) holidays are celebrated this year, and what are they? 36) Who was the first recorded foreigner to set foot in Hong Kong? 37) Which was Hong Kong’s first international school to open?
33) What are the three suits of Mahjong? 38) What is next year's Chinese zodiac sign?
34) Who was the first Chief Executive of Hong Kong?
39) In what year was ESF founded? 40) What year were the Star Ferry riots?
47) When was the Hong Kong Cricket Club established? 48) A new restaurant called Momentai opened recently in Sai Kung. What does “Momentai” mean in English?
49) Which is Hong Kong’s longest hiking trail?
41) What is the emblem of Kellett School? 42) Which is the only school in Hong Kong to work to a Southern-Hemisphere timetable? 43) Which event in Causeway Bay does Noel Coward refer to in his 1931 hit song, Mad Dogs and Englishmen?
50) Which is the oldest, continuously operated school in Hong Kong?
44) How many ESF schools are there in Hong Kong (primary and secondary only)?
Answers will be revealed in our August issue. expat-parent.com 29
C ST OV O ER RY
Home stay
Take your Hong Kong summer to the next level with a staycation, says Carolynne Dear
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R VE Y O R C TO S
T
here’s a lot to be said for holidaying at home. No lengthy pre-departure "to-do" and packing lists, no flight hassles and no jet-lagged children to cope with at the other end. After all, we don’t all have the leave - or perhaps the finances - to escape Hong Kong for a lengthy overseas holiday during the summer months. For many, Shek O or South Bay is as exotic as we’re going to get. And that’s OK, because in many ways this is a great time - maybe the best time - to be hangin’ at home. Hong Kong traditionally empties of expats at this time of year as people head "home", or just take time out for a long summer break. This is the time to be making the most of its myriad beaches and pools. You don’t have to belong to a fancy club to be able to swim, Hong Kong has some great public pools they’re cheap, most have kid-friendly water parks, flumes and diving boards and are open until October (check lcsd.gov.hk for more details). And remember, local schools don’t break up until the middle of this month, so many beaches that are packed solid on weekends are usually relatively quiet during the week make the most of them. But of course if you do fancy a minibreak, Hong Kong is also stuffed with gorgeous hotels boasting even-moregorgeous hotel pools. We’ve rounded up some of the best deals this summer...
EAST Hong Kong, Tai Koo Summer specials include complimentary mini-bar, complimentary extra bed, 50% discount on the afternoon tea set at the hotel’s Feast cafe and 30% discount on food and beverages in Feast, rooftop bar Sugar and in-room dining - take advantage of all of this when you book an Urban View room ($1,200 per night plus 10% service charge), east-hongkong.com
The glamorous pool deck at the Four Seasons Hong Kong
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C ST OV O ER RY
Hanging around on the Skytop Aquatic Adventure Ride
The Banyan Tree Macau If you want to break out of the Hong Kong bubble, Macau is a mecca for family fun. Once a quiet Portuguese fishing village, it now boasts more hotels than you can shake a fishing rod at. Big, bold and crowded it may be, but it’s still possible to escape the masses for a relaxing family-friendly break - you just need to pick the right hotel. The beautiful Banyan Tree Macau is a little slice of paradise within the glitz and glamour of The Galaxy complex (construction on phase three of this eye-popping resort has just started) on the Cotai strip. And this summer the hotel has launched the entirely attractive Saffron Summer Package. The deal includes a Taste of Thai set menu lunch at Saffron, the hotel's signature restaurant (with non-spicy options for the kids), mocktails on
The private Banyan Tree pool
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the Banyan Tree’s private Cabana Pool Deck, and access to the Grand Resort Deck - which includes the Skytop Wave Pool (allegedly the largest wave pool in the world), the fun-tastic Skytop Aquatic Adventure Ride (forget the kids, my husband was struggling to extricate me from this entirely relaxing lazy river experience), plus an assortment of waterslides, geysers, waterfalls and a kids aquatic zone. The day-long extravaganza costs MOP 988 for two. The hotel is also running a Chill-Out At Cabana summer package. Enjoy a private cabana for four by the private Banyan Tree pool for a day (11am-6pm), including a complimentary bottle of G H Mumm Champagne and food and beverage credits worth MOP 1,000. The luxurious poolside cabanas have shower facilities, safety deposit boxes and daybeds, and the package again includes access to the Grand Resort Deck. Prices start from MOP 1,800. banyantree.com
Four Seasons Hotel, Central The luxury five-star property is offering a special 20% discount this summer if you book a minimum two-night stay arriving on a Friday or Saturday before September 8. One of Hong Kong’s few hotels to boast an absolute waterfront position (reclamation has relegated many high flyers to city-viewonly territory over the years), Four Seasons boasts arguably the best hotel outdoor pool terrace, including two pools, jacuzzis and million-dollar views over Victoria harbour. Its 399 rooms over 45 floors have either water views on one side or – equally impressive – city views on the other. Further top-notch facilities include an impressive spa, a nail bar with sweeping views over the harbour, and seven restaurants, including the decadent two-Michelin-starred Caprice. If you’ve got littlies in tow, the concierge desk can arrange babysitting if required, and rooms are kitted out with mini robes, slippers, kid-friendly toiletries and complimentary nappies and baby blankets. Got friends in town - or maybe fellow mammas with no overseas holiday booked either? Four Seasons has just launched The Great Friend Getaway, which includes two nights' accommodation in four Deluxe Harbour-view rooms, daily breakfast, a cheese-and-wine pairing class at Caprice, a Chinese-bracelet-knotting workshop and a two-and-a-half hour Nail Bar "takeover" with
Two Michelin-star restaurant Caprice (above) and sweeping water views from the guest rooms (below).
bubbles and canapes. The offer is available for up to eight people and costs $49,800 for the package. fourseasons.com
The Conrad Hong Kong Splash out with Weekend By The Pool at the Conrad - available 11am to 5pm every Saturday, Sunday and public holiday this summer, the package includes unlimited access to the pool, gym and group classes, a 50-minute signature body massage, light sharing snacks, free-flow fresh juices and freeflow champagne between 4 and 5pm at the Garden Cafe Terrace. $1,080/adult, $330/per child aged six to 12, free for six years and under. conradhotels3.hilton.com
The Hilton Hotel Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai Forget the train; the best way to access this hotel, located in Shekhou at the western end of Shenzhen, is by boat. A relaxing hour-long cruise from Shun Tak sails you through Victoria Harbour, past the Container Port and Park Island, under the Tsing Ma bridge and on past the Gold Coast, with Chek Lap Kok on your left and Tai Lam Country Park on your right. Finally, you motor across Shenzhen Bay and into Shekou ferry port. (The $40 extra to upgrade to Premier Class is absolutely worth it). It’s also worth noting that you will need a full Chinese visa, as there is no visa-on-arrival set-up as at the Lowu border crossing. The Hilton in Shekou is a relatively recent addition to this up-andcoming district of Shenzhen. The hotel incorporates the old Nanhai Hotel, one of Shenzhen’s earliest and most renowned hotels, which has received a thorough overhaul and now forms the Nanhai Wing, a familyfriendly addition to the property that opened last year. The 218 rooms enjoy sweeping views over Shenzhen Bay and the local yacht club and modern, Scandi-style decor - think blonde wood and light and bright fixtures and fittings. Facilities include a pool, three restaurants with Western options, outdoor kids' play areas by the lawn, and a supervised indoor play area - escape to the spa downstairs while you can! Guests can also access the facilities in the main Hilton wing, including three further restaurants (the Xiao Long Bau in the light and airy Cantonese dining room are completely en pointe) and a resort pool overlooking the bay. Afternoon tea is served in the lobby lounge, accompanied by a pianist seated in the midst of a water feature. The hotel is next door to the brand new Design Society Museum, which currently features an exhibition by London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, and is across the road from the Sea World entertainment complex with its landlocked cruise ship, international restaurants, shops and bars and a fountain show each evening. This summer the hotel has launched a Kids' Passport Programme with workshops covering gardening, table etiquette, cooking, swimming, physical training and climbing - check the website for individual class prices. shenzhenshekounanhai.hilton.com
Pool with a view over Shenzhen Bay
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C ST OV O ER RY
Stuck On You Personalised Camp Postcards $79 from Minifab stuckonyou.hk
Egyptian leather sandals in gold, white, tan leather $1,550 from La French Cut lafrenchcut.com
X-Toosh Herbal Insect Repellent $240 from Moraz Galilee moraz.hk
Zoobug Polarised Sunglasses for Toddlers USD$100 from Minifab minifab.com.hk
Fujifilm Instax Mini 9 in Flamingo Pink $850 from Log On logon.com.hk
Seedling Mini Mushrooms Skipping Rope $95 from Minifab seedling.com.hk
Summer style Keep it cool when the heat is on Lacroix Sweetie! Tote Bag $1,446 from Christian Lacroix christian-lacroix.com
Stuck On You Personalised Sun Hat $199 from Minifab stuckonyou.com
Teresa’s Turkish Towels Pineapple Towel $300 hkturkish.com
Lounge Chair $3,300 from Joyce joyce.com
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Geisha Beach Towel €129 from Christian Lacroix christian-lacroix.com
Invisible KIDS Sun Protector Spray SPF50+++ $320 from Moraz Galilee moraz.hk
expat-parent.com 35
schools
Stretching it out in morning class
Rays of contentment Amelia Sewell travels to Tung Chung to take a look at Sunshine House International Preschool
I
n a small corner of Tung Chung, a stone’s throw from the MTR, is a quiet slice of simple educational bliss. Sunshine House has been part of Hong Kong’s early-education offering for almost 30 years, with five campuses conveniently spread across the territory, in Clear Water Bay, Pok Fu Lam, Discovery Bay, Chi Fu and Tung Chung. Each is led by its own “centre-in-charge” (a slightly clumsy name for principal), however the schools share resources, experience, teaching methods and best practice. Visiting their Tung Chung campus on a sunny day in April, I witnessed a small and perfectly formed preschool offering the kind of environment in which happy Hong Kong childhoods are made. Sunshine House’s roots are based in the English curriculum, though with an international slant: all five schools follow the EYFS program at the core but have
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added elements that acknowledge their surroundings. Currently, the children have one 40-minute Putonghua class each day, however the school is moving to a more structured bilingual offering in the next academic year. Maddy Afonso, the centre-in-charge of the Tung Chung campus, tells me they’re even looking at a trilingual format with Cantonese. Teaching is done mainly through song, rhyme and repetition, and staff are confident that this style will suit even those children who do not speak Cantonese or Mandarin at home. “A sympathetic teaching style means that even those who are not mother-tongue speakers can benefit hugely. We recently had a South African boy join us who spoke no languages other than Afrikaans, but he has adapted quickly and is now full integrated in everything his classmates do and say.” In keeping with the international atmosphere, Afonso herself was raised in
Northern Ireland and is a combination of Portuguese and South African. This seems to serve as perfect preparation for a role in such a diverse school, where she can be seen at the gates each morning greeting children from 11 different nationalities. “We’re a complete melting pot and it works wonderfully. Everyone feels welcome, no matter where they are from.” I think it unlikely that I’ll be this lucky, but I did say a small prayer at the beginning of the year that 2018 might be the year that dodges the trauma of another buzzword epidemic. In recent years, the world of education has been one of the worst-hit: “makerspace” is the one that confuses me most – the word “workshop” or “table” used to be sufficient. “Gamification”, “21st-century learners” and “co-operative learning” are all equally frustrating. So I was relieved to find that while many schools feel they have to dazzle parents with these newfangled phrases and flashy
Sponsored Column
Choosing between established and new schools by Anne Murphy, Director, ITS EDUCATION ASIA In Hong Kong, many of the international schools have been educating students since the late sixties, while others were only just established over the last two-to-three years and new schools will open for 20182019 Academic Year. The well-established schools have a long-standing reputation for providing the type of educational experience that many parents would like to see their children receive. Alumni data can offer a glimpse into the quality of a school’s services. Many established schools, such as ESF, Canadian International School, Chinese International School, German Swiss, Hong Kong International School and Kellett School have very impressive graduates every year. Some parents may be worried that new schools have no proven track record, no inspection reports, no parental feedback and no external exam results. But new schools have a whole lot to offer, from state-of-theart facilities, modern technologies to top-end resources as well as dedicated staff.
concepts, Sunshine House seems to have a much simpler, cleaner offering: the school’s philosophy from the start has been “For the love of children”, and even today, this is still at the heart of their ethos. Love is perhaps a slightly unfashionable word when it comes to education, but the school is proud of this approach and it clearly serves the children and parents well. “It is at the heart of everything we do,” explains Afonso. “In the mornings, before classes begin, the first thing every teacher does is to give each child a hug. We feel it’s important that each day starts that way.” With this in mind, it’s no surprise that family involvement and understanding is also a guiding principle. It means simple things such as a sibling priority lists, a gradual settling-in period for new arrivals, and inviting parents to speak to the classes on a topic of interest. Speaking of love, something the pupils no doubt love is the homework policy, which is limited to once a week, with one week to complete. In place of more formal homework, the pupils might be challenged with creative tasks – a recent one was to make an Easter bonnet entirely out of recycled material. It’s important to note, though, that whilst Sunshine House is happy to carve out its
Schools which have opened over the past few years, have associations with renowned educational institutions. Such as Nord Anglia International School’s collaboration with Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), involves the implementation of science, technology, engineering, visual arts and mathematics (STEAM) programs across all 42 of Nord Anglia’s schools worldwide. The structure of the buildings and classroom design is something else to take into consideration. New schools and new campuses have inventive break-out areas, school gardens, classroom device integration and makerspaces. The Harbour School, which opened a new campus in August 2017 has one of the largest, most comprehensive makerspaces in any Hong Kong school. Collaborative learning spaces and adaptable and flexible layouts will be on offer at French International School’s new campus in September 2018. Shrewsbury International School, which will open in August 2018, has
Creative fun with a space ship project
own path, it is not impervious to some of the newer education concepts coming along. Their enrichment programme is therefore varied, with classes ranging from the more traditional cooking and yoga to STEM and Smart Coder.
been very specific in the design for primaryaged children even down to the choice of furniture. The overall design ensures there are a range of larger and smaller teaching spaces to allow for flexible tuition in groups or with individuals. Whether parents are looking into new or established schools, they should pay close attention to a school’s mission and the educational promises that school representatives make. What matters more than the number of years a school has been around is that a child is placed in a school that will provide them with the education they require to thrive. ITS Education Asia provides an education consulting service that works with families and employers to find the right schools for individual children in Hong Kong, from nursery to secondary schools. ITS also offers research, policy and advisory services for corporations. For more details, contact 3188 3940, es@itseducation.asia or visit itseducation.asia
For some classes, parents can choose from lessons taught in either English or Putonghua, depending on where they would like the emphasis. The school is also gently embracing a small amount of technology, with the introduction of smart boards later in the year. “We feel that technology does have a place in education at this level, but it needs to be limited and carefully monitored. So we are bringing it in, but gradually.” Despite being only 30 minutes from the clamour of Central and a two-minute walk from the MTR, Sunshine House reminded me of a more traditional village school, offering a calm environment away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Centred around a large playground that would be the envy of most pre-schools in Hong Kong, classes are relaxed and small, currently with about 10 children each. Add to that the fact that all the teachers know every child by name and you have a warm community feeling that you are not always guaranteed to find in a city as large and busy as ours. In addition to this, the size and proximity of the playground mean that every day is an opportunity for children to exert some of the boundless energy they possess. On my visit, the pre-nursery class was in the expat-parent.com 37
schools middle of a session about gross motor skills, so I was lucky enough to witness a swarm of three-year-olds, tongues stuck out to aid concentration, earnestly practising their hopping. Geographically, the Tung Chung campus currently serves the immediate area, however in response to demand, the school will be putting on a bus service starting from the next academic year. Exact routes have not yet been decided, but the school is open to suggestions from any parents who may be interested in using it. Not many schools could offer a bilingual education whilst also managing to maintain such a relaxed atmosphere. But somehow, Sunshine House does. Despite being small and relatively lowkey, the school is not without ambition and, crucially, is prepared to move with the times. A happy place full of smiling faces, Sunshine House is not to be overlooked. Sunshine House International Preschools Hong Kong was founded in Hong Kong in 1990. It is an international preschool with a bilingual option for children from nursery to K3. Since 2017, the group has been majorityowned by Canadian International Educational Organisation, China. sunshinehouse.com.hk
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Principal’s office Maddy Afonso
What is your Hong Kong story? I was raised in both South Africa and Portugal but completed my education in Northern Ireland. Two years ago, I moved from Johannesburg to Hong Kong with my husband, who is a pilot. Because he needs to be near to the airport, we live in Tung Chung. It has a great community feel, which means that I often bump into the children and their families at the weekend.
You had quite an international education yourself. What do you think you learnt from this? An international education is brilliant; you learn new languages, cultures and values. It has given me a different way of thinking that has been adapted into my whole life.
What do you enjoy most about living in Hong Kong?
The Peak and the Big Buddha. We also like the Temple Street Ladies’ Market and Stanley.
What was the last book that you read? It was a Portuguese book called No coração desta terra (In the heart of this land) by JW Coetzee.
Which was your favourite subject at school? Geography was definitely my favourite subject, especially when learning about which flags belonged to which country and capitals and their cultures.
If the world were your oyster, which country would you visit next? Australia. I’ve always had something inside of me that pulls me towards Australia. Hopefully I’ll get to go this year with my husband.
I enjoy the safety and the ease at which public services operate.
Tell us something about you that we might not know.
Where do you take visitors?
I recently participated in a five-kilometre race called Women’s Five, which raised money for women who have experienced sexual violence.
We show them the main tourist attractions like
Principal Maddy Alfonso with students
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HEALTH & wellness
Hindes in Hong Kong Discover Tai Kwun and other hotspots with Expat Parent’s new health & wellness editor, Ifat Hindes
O
ur vibrant city is stuffed with delish eats for all budgets and tastes. But this month I want to show just how easy it is to eat healthily here. Years ago, when I first started getting really strict with myself and the family, we regularly blew our budget on incredible health-conscious menus. Fun, but sadly not sustainable. These days I have a completely different view - a smaller budget doesn’t mean you need to forego some amazing options. A perfect example was at The Metropolitain (french-creations.com) a couple of weeks ago for my friend Sangeeta’s big birthday brunch. I mentioned I was writing an article about healthy eats and quickly got chatting with chef Frank Lebiez about the use of fresh ingredients, integrity and the importance of knowing your source. What I love most about this cosy French café is its welcoming, homely feel, its fresh fare - and its down-to-earth price point.
Sometimes healthy is not just about the food. It’s also in the mind.
Wellington Street’s Sisombath (sisombath.business.site.com) is a Laotian noodle and snack restaurant with a menu created by up-and-coming celebrity chef Justin Chan. The Lao vegan soup broth is made with the freshest veggies and loaded with nutrients; the traditional mango salad popped with flavour and colours and the steamed rice spring rolls were made with an in-house sauce. A great option if you’re in town. I was really keen to tuck in at Café Siam (cafesiam.com.hk) as I love Thai food 40 expat-parent.com
Ifat Hindes gets down to business with Madame Fu’s Christian Rhomberg
and have always thought of it as a healthy option. The venue has just launched a “Nutrilicious” menu, created by nutritional advisor Kim Murphy in conjunction with the on-site chefs. This menu is stuffed with vegan options and boasts less sugars and salt and no deep frying. But for me the most notable thing about the spread was the bright colours - if you eat your “colours” you know you’re getting your healthy fill (and hooray, the drinking straws are bamboo!). I was also lucky enough to be invited by Kee Club founder Christian Rhomberg, a Hong Kong entrepreneur and lover of the arts, to the launch of his new venue in historic Tai Kwun old police station. Madame Fu (taikwun.hk) represents a woman who, against all odds in the 1920s, achieved so much. Sitting in the main dining room, we were transported back to another time.
Sometimes, healthy is not just in the food, it’s also in the mind. So, with a relaxing atmosphere and a glass of vino to hand, we enjoyed a lovely conversation about the vision behind the venue as we tucked into traditional Chinese cuisine - all cooked with organic ingredients where possible. The cucumber pickles were perfect, the har gao utterly divine, and the turnip cakes light and airy. Finally, the king prawn topped with Madame Fu’s own fermented XO sauce and broccoli was so good I went to bed dreaming about it. This gorgeous venue is good for any occasion. Ifat Kafry Hindes is a Hong Kong mum and awardwinning wellness entrepreneur. Follow her adventures @ifathindes
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HEALTH & wellness
Fit family Holistic nutritionist Allyson Smyth guides Carolynne Dear towards a greener (and leaner) lifestyle
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he road to Ally Smyth’s place is steep and winding and the views are magnificent. As befits an holistic nutritionist and firm supporter of the plant-based-diet movement, her studio and gym sit nestled in the thick jungle of Sai Kung’s hills, just off the MacLehose trail, and boast a fine veggie garden of their own. I’m in a green frame of mind before I even knock on her door. A keen athlete since her schooldays, Smyth has always had an interest in wellness. But the lure of university parties, followed by a brief career in marketing and then a move to Hong Kong, saw her eating and drinking too much and overtraining to compensate. A health scare and a number of running injuries prompted a lifestyle overhaul, and with a clutch of new fitness and nutrition qualifications, she launched Dragon Fitness and Coaching two years ago. She now runs personal training and nutrition workshops from her gym and studio in the wilds of Sai Kung. As for me, I’m fed up with carrying around a few surplus kilos and feel my body isn’t responding to diet and lifestyle as it used to. No longer will a couple of days of crackers and cottage cheese shift the fat (an old university trick), and too much alcohol before bed has me up all night rather than comatose. And hangover-free mornings after? Forget about it! So basically I’m in a rut, fed up with counting calories, and could do with encouraging the kids towards a healthier lifestyle as well. I think it sounds like a tall order, but Smyth takes it all in her stride. Kids’ nutrition, she says, is hugely important to her. “I would love to be able to get in at school level with some of my classes – the younger that children get on board, the better. Their relationship with food by age 20 is indicative of how they will live their adult life, so they really don’t want to be overweight and making bad choices in childhood. Healthy habits now will stand them in good stead for the rest of their lives.” We run through the weekly family menu. It’s a predictable mix of Western-style nursery dishes (think spaghetti bolognese, lasagne, cottage pie and so on), roast dinners, cheesebased pasta dishes, chicken noodle soups and dumplings, ribs or chops and veggies. Breakfast 42 expat-parent.com
The future is fruity (and vegetable-y)
is cereal, and lunch is usually sandwiches or cold pasta salads and muesli bars. I lost my inspiration for school lunches sometime after the last opium war. As for myself, I fall back on toast most mornings, with the odd boiled egg thrown in for good measure, and a sandwich or “light salad” for lunch (usually at my desk). By 3pm I’m cracking open the chocolate Hobnobs. “It’s not terrible,” says Smyth. “But there are definitely improvements to be made.” The biggest stumbling block seems to be the family breakfast. Over the years I’ve tried to limit the cereal choices to Weetabix and Special K, but Smyth is vehemently anti-cereal and anti-dairy. “There is nothing nutritious in a box of cereal; those flakes are laden with sugar and the nutrients aren’t naturally found, they’re added in.” And she admits she gave up dairy a long time ago in favour or nut- or oat-based milk drinks. She argues that while dairy milk is brilliant for raising baby cows, it contains far too much protein to be useful for humans. Human breast milk – perfectly formulated for human babies – contains around 5% protein, and cows’ milk – perfect for growing heifers – has about 25%. That means our kidneys are overloaded trying to process the excess protein.
But whether you’re willing to forgo the dairy or not, Smyth has a heap of brekkie alternatives. The list runs to omelettes, eggs and spinach, porridge (“add raw cacao powder for a healthy chocolate hit if the kids need enticing”), chia pudding or a simple serve of fruit. Smyth’s hack for lunches and snacks is to over-cater the night before so there are
Fill your plate with colour
HEALTH & wellness
Smyth’s tips for success Boost your brekkie - try smoothies with fruit, spinach and nut milk; porridge and fruit, or eggs with veggies. Half and half - fill your plate with half to two thirds of veggies and make these guys the star, rather than meat. Veggies contain a myriad of different phytonutrients, and are low in calories and high in resistant starch (fibre). Fabulous fruit - fruit brings so many nutrients to the table. It’s easily digested and nobody ever got fat from eating it, because fructose does not elevate blood sugar in the body in the same way as table sugar. Nuts about nuts (and pulses and seeds) - these guys are powerhouses of
nutrients, phytonutrients and resistant starch and can easily replace meat. Take time for tea - a smaller lunch or a larger snack works at 3 or 4pm – try fruit, nuts, hummus or guacamole with veggies or raw balls. Lose the dairy - it causes inflammation, its protein levels are too high for humans and it contains antibiotics and hormones; not to mention the horrific conditions that dairy cows are kept in and the environmental ramifications of dairy farming. Try making your own nut or coconut milk. Banish the booze - it’s full of empty calories, it’s a toxin, and it stresses the body by releasing cortisol, which aids fat storage around your middle. Indulge in alcohol as just an occasional celebratory luxury.
Recipe guide Breakfast Nut milk
Soak one cup of mixed, raw nuts in two to three cups of water overnight. Drain and discard the water and blend the nuts with four more cups of water until almost smooth. Strain the blended mixture through a muslin or nut milk bag and refrigerate. Keep the nut meal for biscuits, cakes and breads.
Chocolate smoothie Add a cup of nut milk to the blender with a handful of ice, two tablespoons of raw cacao powder, three or four dates (pits removed), and an optional splash of vanilla extract.
Snacks always plenty of leftovers, and then to keep a big bowl of mixed salad and a fruit salad permanently topped up in the fridge. “Leave the dressing in a separate jar so the salad doesn’t go soggy, then whatever you’re having for lunch – an omelette, or leftover roast chicken from last night – grab a plateful of ready-made salad to go with it.” She suggests adding nuts, seeds, grains, chickpeas, beans or some avocado to bulk it up. And she recommends kale or bok choy as a more nutritious alternative to salad leaves. A pre-made fruit salad makes it easier to opt for a healthy snack mid-afternoon rather than making a beeline for the biscuit tin. “Add coconut cream, honey, a sprinkle of cinnamon – I probably have about four or five serves of fruit a day. Don’t be scared of it; the natural sugar is balanced with a heap of goodness, including vitamins and fibre.” Other snack ideas include sliced apple with peanut butter, a handful of nuts, hummus and veggie sticks, or raw balls (see recipe overleaf). “Have it in the fridge, all ready to go. Don’t go hungry,” she urges. As for dinner, keep your plate topped up with veggies or salad. “The ratio should be around three quarters vegetables to one quarter meat or protein. Carbs are also good, but stick to wholegrain rice, potatoes (there’s
nothing wrong with a potato – it’s low in calories and contains a heap of fibre, but opt for a jacket spud rather than mash or roast), quinoa, sweet potatoes and so forth. Try and avoid pasta, even wholegrain.” As far as the kids are concerned, she recommends getting your own house in order first. “More often than not, the kids will follow. If you’re tucking into a fun-looking, bright-pink beetroot dip, they’re likely to ask if they can try it. And then you can start moving forward with other dishes.” She also suggests keeping a food diary, noting down everything that passes your lips. “It will make you think harder about the choices you’re making.” As for alcohol, Smyth recommends limiting it as much as you can. “Don’t get into the habit of pouring a glass ‘because it’s Thursday night’ or ‘because I’ve had a bad day’. Save it for special occasions. Of course we all like a drink and to let our hair down, and I put my own hands up to having the odd blow-out, but it really isn’t good for us, so keep it in check.” Allyson Smyth is founder of Dragon Fitness and Coaching. For more information about her nutrition workshops, visit dragonfitnessandcoaching.com
Beetroot hummus Roast, steam or boil a whole peeled beetroot. Place in the blender with a drained can of chickpeas, the juice of a lemon, a tablespoon of tahini, half a teaspoon of ground cumin and a little water or olive oil for your prefered consistency. Season, then serve with crackers or crudités.
Flax-seed crackers Preheat oven to 100° C and line a large baking tray with parchment paper. Soak one cup of flax seeds with three tablespoons of chia seeds in one cup of water for 20 minutes. Add three tablespoons of sunflower seeds, three tablespoons of pumpkin seeds, three tablespoons of za’atar or fresh herbs (rosemary and thyme work well) and one teaspoon of salt. Spread the mixture evenly on the baking sheet and bake for one hour, then flip and bake for another hour-and-a-half. Break into pieces when cooled.
Raw balls Blend one cup of sunflower seeds, one cup of nuts (hazelnuts, walnuts, etc.), one cup of dates (pits removed), two tablespoons of raw cacao powder and a little water or lime juice. Mould into balls and refrigerate.
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travel
Travel news
MORPHEUS MOVES IN Macau’s much anticipated Morpheus Hotel - the Greek god of dreams - has finally opened. The futuristic building was designed by the late Dame Zaha Hadid; top features include a rooftop sky pool, a restaurant and bar by Alain Ducasse - and of course a VIP casino. cityofdreamsmacau.com
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travel
All the blues
Luxury resort Joali on Muravandhoo island in the northern Maldives opens this summer. The palm-fringed island is surrounded by unspoilt reef and boasts 73 beach and water villas. Additional features include four restaurants fusing local and international cuisines, spa experiences and
a fitness centre, plus a host of activities for children, including native storytelling days, treasure hunts, a kid-friendly kitchen and a Chocolate and Ice Cream Parlour. Further stand-out features include an underwater museum focusing on environmental issues and an Art Studio and Gallery. joali.com
Hot summer deals
Fun and games at Banyan Tree Koh Samui
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Lightfoot Travel is offering a “stay four, pay three” deal at Banyan Tree Koh Samui until December 20. The deal is available on bookings for Deluxe Pool Villas, Partial Ocean Pool Villas and Family Ocean Pool Villas, and includes a daily breakfast buffet. The resort is located 20 minutes from Koh Samui airport and boasts three restaurants, private beach, hydrospa, gym, yoga classes, library, games room and all-important kids club. Babysitting is also available. If you’re looking for some action in between the relaxation, there’s snorkelling, kayaking, bodyboarding, catamaran sailing and windsurfing down at the beach, plus island excursions. lightfoottravel.com
travel
Battle of the beach towels
Where will you be laying your towel this summer?
Australian travel company Intrepid has revealed the world’s holiday hotspots suffering from the most “overtourism”. The index was compiled by comparing total visitor arrivals in 2016 to the permanent population to create a “tourism density index”. Croatia tops the over-tourism list, with an incredible 57,587,000 tourists to 4,170,600 locals, while China comes in as top the country for “under-tourism”, which is perhaps not surprising given its 1.3 billion population. Iceland was measured as the secondbusiest destination, with around six tourists to every local. Other countries to top the list include France, Denmark, Czech Republic, Hungary, Singapore and Spain.
Maya Bay closure Thailand’s infamous Maya Bay is closing to tourists for four months, according to Thai authorities. The idyllic cove featured in Danny Boyle’s 2000 movie The Beach, starring Leonardo Dicaprio and based on the 1996 novel by Alex Garland. It is hoped the move will reverse the damage to the surrounding coral reef. The bay starred in the movie as an untouched backpacker paradise but has since become
a victim of its own fame. The film has attracted hundreds of thousands of tourists to the tiny Phi Phi Islands where Maya Bay is located, causing untold damage to the once-pristine beach and reef. As many as 5,000 tourists a day arrive by boat from the mainland resorts of Krabi and Phuket, but fears about damage to the local reefs have spurred local authorities into action and the beach will now be shut
until September 30. There have been calls for stricter measures when it re-opens, including a daily cap on numbers, although given Thailand’s reliance on tourist revenue a permanent closure is unlikely. The closure is hot on the heels of the Philippine government’s decision to temporarily shut Boracay Island, also for environmental reasons.
Overcrowding has forced Thailand’s popular Maya Bay to close at the end of the autumn
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travel
Cruise control
Watch the world go by from the comfort of Gypsy
A just-launched river cruise gives meandering along the Mekong new meaning, says Carolynne Dear
I
f you’re looking to make some lazy family memories this summer, but you want to try something a bit different - maybe a break that’s a little bit off the usual holiday trail - a brand new Southeast Asian cruise could be for you. Gypsy is a two-cabin, private river boat that launched last month on the mighty Mekong. The lavishly refurbished cruiser sails in great style between Thailand’s Golden Triangle in the north and the ancient Laotian capital of Luang Prabang in the south, taking in a heap of sights and sounds along the way. With space for four people, it’s ideal for families who want to enjoy a dose of cultural immersion as well as some serious downtime together.
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The private tour takes in myriad temples and the languid, lush countryside of the fabled Mekong delta The Laotian countyside
The privately tailored tour meanders between Chiang Rai and the UNESCO world heritage city of Luang Prabang over four days and three nights, taking in the
Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp and Resort in Chiang Rai, myriad temples and the languid, lush countryside of the fabled Mekong delta. Shore excursions include guided jungle treks, mountain biking,
travel freshwater fishing, craft workshops, Laos whisky tasting and a visit to the Pak Ou limestone caves. Back on board, there’s a host of wellness and cultural options on offer, including yoga, folk dancing, Laos language classes, a weaving workshop and cooking classes. And when you’re ready to kick-back and enjoy the scenery, there’s always the Champagne afternoon tea on deck. The carefully thought-out accommodation on the 41-metre vessel comprises two cabins, mid-ship lounge, bar and dining area, and a separate verandastyle lounge with al fresco panorama deck at the bow of the boat. The interior design is the brainchild of Bangkok-based design consultant Jiraparnn Tokeeree, who has blended wood and thatch fixtures and fittings with woven leather seating, oversized bamboo daybeds and rich Thai silks and fabrics. Fabulous floorto-ceiling windows ensure the spectacular scenery is always within view. The air-conditioned cabins comprise one king and one twin room and both have an ensuite shower and vanity.
The al fresco rear deck
Rates start from US$5,450 per boat for a four-day, three-night cruise, including all on-board meals, welcome reception with canapes, soft drinks, water, beer, selected wines, coffee and tea, Wi-Fi, shore
excursions, English guide, entrance fees and transfers, on-board activities and return airport or hotel transfers. Children under four travel free. mekongkingdoms.com
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travel
Culture vultures
If you’re looking for a shorthaul solution, Bangkok makes for a brilliant break, says Marianne Rogerson
B
ustling Bangkok with its reputation for ladyboys and seedy bars may not seem like the obvious choice for a family holiday. But with a wealth of cultural attractions, year-round warm weather and a vast choice of luxury hotels, the Thai capital allows you to combine exciting city sightseeing with relaxing family fun in the sun. Getting around Bangkok with kids is easy. The city has an excellent public transport system with the Skytrain (a monorail that connects most tourist areas) and a network of boats plying the Chao Praya River. There are plenty of family attractions, including as Dreamworld and Dinosaur Planet, but we were reluctant to spend our time in Bangkok wandering around theme parks. Instead we chose to explore the cultural side of this fun and fascinating city, taking in a floating market, exploring the canals and checking out the city’s most famous temples.
Bangkok’s floating markets (left) and mask painting on the Thonburi canal tour
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travel We split our stay between the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit and the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, hoping to enjoy the best of both worlds of the city centre and riverside locations. We begin at the Sofitel, a 32-storey art-deco-inspired hotel that brings a touch of French elegance to the heart of Bangkok. Located just a two-minute walk from Nana BTS Skytrain station, sightseeing from this city centre location could not be easier. Enormous shopping mall Terminal 21 is just a five-minute walk away and legendary party street Soi 11 is just around the corner, with a huge choice of bars, restaurants and clubs. The Sofitel provides babysitting, so we were able to take advantage of a well-earned evening out with our little ones tucked up in bed. Our room was stylishly decorated, blending French sophistication with local Thai design elements, but the highlight of this hotel from a family point of view is the gorgeous outdoor swimming pool on the ninth floor. We spent a lazy morning here to recover from our travel day, as well as each afternoon to cool down after a morning’s sightseeing. The Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort has more of a holiday resort feel to it, with sprawling landscaped gardens, riverside location and huge swimming pool. We spent most of our time here playing in the pool and taking advantage of the swim-up bar while the kids were entertained in the kids club. There are several restaurants to choose from, including an Italian restaurant serving excellent pizzas from a wood-fired oven and a fun Teppanyaki restaurant, where the chefs double as entertainers and encourage the whole family to get involved with the cooking. Breakfast is a generous buffet served on the terrace overlooking the Chao Praya River. We loved the resort feel and family vibe of the Anantara, but we did miss the handy location of the Sofitel. Sightseeing from the Anantara involves taking a shuttle boat along the river to Saphan Taksin, from where you can pick up a riverboat or Skytrain. For families looking for a relaxing retreat in Bangkok, however it is an excellent option.
Top five fun days out with kids Thonburi Canal Tour Bangkok was once known as the “Venice of the East” thanks to its large network of canals. One area where many of these khlongs or canals remain intact is Thonburi, which has retained much of its original rustic charm. We booked a Family Canal & Tuk Tuk Tour through tour company Expique, which
Relaxing back at the hotel pool
begins with cruising the criss-cross of canals to admire the old wooden bridges, ramshackle teak buildings and traditional temples. The tour also includes mask painting, a traditional puppet show, learning to fold lotus flowers in the flower market and a visit to the Golden Mount temple. It was an absolute highlight of our trip and I would definitely recommend it for young families visiting Bangkok.
Wat Phra Kaw and Wat Pho No visit to Bangkok is complete without a visit to Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace. This sprawling complex of intricately decorated temples is home to the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand, and the highly revered Emerald Buddha. The temple complex can get very crowded and combined with the heat we didn’t want to subject the kids to a drawn-out visit, but they enjoyed exploring the different buildings and posing for photos with the giant towering gate-keeper statues. There is enough gold and glittering jewels to keep them impressed for a short time. From here we wandered to nearby Wat Pho, where the enormous reclining Buddha was a hit with the kids. We made a donation to the temple and collected a jar of coins to Thai dance show
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travel known floating market, it’s not overrun with tourists as many others now are. Unlike most floating markets, Khlong Lat Mayom is close by and easily accessible from the city. The market is a foodie’s paradise, with every kind of Thai snack available and we enjoyed a heap of new food experiences, as well as some of the best mango sticky rice in town. Although we loved the authentic local atmosphere of the market, it didn’t quite deliver the image the kids had of hundreds of boat vendors competing for our business. In hindsight, for the kids’ enjoyment, we might have been better exploring a busier floating market such as Damnoen Saduak or Amphawa.
SeaLife Aquarium Exploring Bangkok’s night markets
distribute into the bowls lining the walls: one in each bowl for good luck.
Floating Market My kids were obsessed with visiting a floating market, and tour company WithLocals recommended Khlong Lat Mayom as the best option to get a feel for local Thai life. As a lesser-
My plans for a purely cultural Bangkok trip were foiled when my kids spotted SeaLife Bangkok Ocean World out of the Skytrain window. We gave in and spend a morning admiring the ocean life here. Despite being regular visitors to Ocean Park, my kids were still wowed by all the sharks, seahorses and spider crabs here. It also has the added bonus of a glass-bottom boat ride and 4D cinema.
Useful contacts • Expique tours, expique.com • WithLocals, withlocals.com • SeaLife Bangkok Ocean World, sealifebangkok.com • Sala Rim Naam, mandarinoriental.com/bangkok • Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, anantara.com • Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, sofitel.com
Dinner at Sala Rim Naam For our last evening in Bangkok we treated the family to dinner and a show at the Mandarin Oriental’s famous Sala Rim Naam restaurant. Located on the banks of the Chao Praya River, Sala Rim Naam is renowned for dishing up some of the best Thai cuisine in town. We took seats on the floor at a traditional table and enjoyed a procession of fabulous Thai dishes. The kids were fascinated by the Thai dance show and in awe of the beautiful dancers who come around the tables to have their photos taken with them. A fitting end to a fun cultural trip in the Land of Smiles.
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marketplace
marketplace
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To advertise, email talk@hongkongliving.com or call 2776 2772.
marketplace
To advertise, email talk@hongkongliving.com or call 2776 2772.
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flailing spouse
Wardrobe wars Channelling the “mamma” look and other trends
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ow while I’m all for a bit of entrepreneurship in my children, I have to admit I am struggling somewhat with the Teen Child’s new start-up venture. Attempting to pack the other day for our summer holiday, I was wading through the Teen Child’s wardrobe (most of which was on the floor or balanced precariously on her desk chair – a “wardrobe” of clothing really is a misnomer for children aged from approximately 12 through to, oh, I don’t know, about 25), ready to toss in the case, chuck in the dirty washing or relegate to the charity sack. And then, beneath the chaos, I discover – to my joy – a neatly folded item of clothing. It looks quite familiar, and when I unfold it realised it’s my husband’s hoodie. It’s a very old hoodie, it dates to before we got married, which of course is an event that occurred in a sort of “lost era” – a period of time that, according to the children, runs from approximately the beginning of time until 2007 when Steve Jobs announced the launch of the iPhone at the Macworld Conference. Anything that occurred between those times is not really worthy of comment. Anyway, the Stussy hoodie in question dates back to that period, around about 1992 to be exact when my husband “stole” it from his university friend Matt when he ran out of clean clothes one term. And Matt nicked something back in return, and my husband never gave the hoodie back, and they had a bit of banter about it over the years and then he took it backpacking and sent Matt lots of “fun” photos of him in the hoodie in various exotic locations, and he was still wearing it when I met him. And it’s just been one of those silly things that we’ve joked about over the years, and Matt still asks for it back every time we meet up for dinner in London. Ha ha. Anyway, how cute, I thought, the Teen Child is now borrowing it and I really must WhatsApp Matt’s wife and tell her. Except it turns out she hasn’t borrowed it at all. She’s sold it. Online. (Which is why it was so neatly folded, ready for posting). Along with my husband’s 1970 Brazilian World Cup replica shirt, a very old pair of Zara heels (possibly 2010? I think I bought them for a Melbourne Cup lunch at Happy Valley Race Course; anyway, they’re terribly old but awfully
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Our columnist is a longsuffering expat wife, and mother to several energetic, third-culture children. She lives in Hong Kong.’
It’s weird how the reality of teenagerhood is about a zillion times worse than you can imagine
comfortable) and a 1990s Quiksilver surf shirt. “Oh my god, but they’re all so retro mum, so cool,” insists the Teen Child when I bring it up with her. It turns out she’s sold the Stussy hoodie for about three times what Matt originally paid for it back in the ’90s. “Well that’s fantastic!” beams my husband. “What a great result for an old top.”
What about Matt? I ask. After all, it officially still belongs to him. My husband looks at me as if I’m mad. “He doesn’t seriously want it back, darling. It was a joke.” I know, I say. But it doesn’t seem quite right, selling other people’s wardrobes like this. Can’t she get a normal teenage job, like packing chickens for Chicken on the Run, or washing up at Jaspas or something? To be honest, my husband is less jaunty when he finds out about the Brazil shirt (I, on the other hand am overjoyed – it’s a foul luminous yellow thing that has faded in the wash over the years and these days resembles more of a weary duster than a trendy sporting shirt; it particularly riles me when he insists on wearing it as suitable “casual dining attire” in lovely European trattorias when we’re on holiday), but he still thinks the whole project very commendable. Until he discovers his Bristol City top is missing. And the Tween Child can’t find her new Netburners. Then things start getting a bit serious. I remember when the children were tiny and still (relatively) compliant and I used to joke with other mummy friends about how revolting they’d be when they were teenagers. I envisaged “tense” standoffs over make up and high heels when they wanted to borrow my things. But it’s weird how the reality of teenagerhood is about a zillion times worse than you can imagine. Of course she’s not doing anything as lovely as wanting to borrow her mother’s “cool” clothes and shoes, she wants to sell them. And not because they’re cool, because they’re “retro”. I don’t know whether to be complimented that other people want to buy my stuff, or insulted that they fall into some kind of specialist “Nannawear” category. Anyway, things reach peak stress when the Teen Child couldn’t locate her brand new layered, distressed denim Top Shop mini-skirt last week. “Oh,” pipes up the Blonde Child. “I had to dress up as a gypsy for the end-of-term school assembly. I thought that skirt looked a bit old so no-one would mind? I donated it to the Year 4 dress-up box.” Touché.
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