Mid-levels July 2018 by Hong Kong Living Ltd

FOOD | HOME | HEALTH | ART | OUTDOORS

Mid-levels hongkongliving.com

July 2018

magazine

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Mid-levels The really useful magazine

magazine

July 2018

4 PEOPLE

Mid-levels social life

7 WHAT’S ON

Treat yourself to some fine things in life

14 NEWS

Really local news

H Queen’s – Hong Kong’s new cultural landmark

18 FIVE MINUTES WITH…

Our A-to-Z guide on how to buy a speedboat and get a licence

40 EDUCATION A visit to The Harbour School in Ap Lei Chau 44 PETS

16 LOCAL

A yacht-inspired apartment

36 OUTDOORS

Great things to win

12 THINGS WE’D BUY

A wellness guru’s guide to healthy dining out

32 HOME & LIVING

A round-up of happenings in July

11 GIVEAWAYS

28 DINING

Paintographer Chaussette b.

The heat is on for pets Plus Walkies

48 ZIM CITY

Paul Zimmerman on Hong Kong’s water crisis

20 COVER STORY

50 reasons we love Mid-levels (and 5 reasons we don’t)

32 “WE MAKE A LIVING BY WHAT WE GET, BUT WE MAKE A LIFE BY WHAT WE GIVE.” - OSCAR WILDE

hongkongliving.com | 1

editor’s letter

Mid-levels

e know prices are rising; shops keep coming and going; new residential buildings are given increasingly grand-sounding names. But Mid-levels is still – and always will be – one of the easiest places to love in Hong Kong. For where else can you find so much culture, local history, divine food, creative juice, hipsters, elderly people and the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator all in one place? Now, in summer, it’s a great time to get out there to enjoy what Mid-levels has to offer. We’ve put together a list of some of our favourite local spots. Some will strike a chord with you; others could be hidden gems you’ve never heard of. Regardless, it’s meant to be list that helps you live a good life in Hong Kong. Summer is also a time to take to the waters. Many of us in Hong Kong love those organised junk trips helmed by some elderly local fisherman. But how about taking the helm yourself? Getting a boat licence is no easy task, but it’s not as tough as you might imagine. Turn to page 36 to find out how.

magazine

Editorial

Managing editor Gemma Shaw, gemma@hongkongliving.com Guest editor Shirley Lau, shirley@hongkongliving.com Sub-editor Kay Ross, kay@hongkongliving.com Editorial assistant Nicole Slater, nicole@hongkongliving.com

Design

Graphic designers Sonia Khatwani, sonia@hongkongliving.com Alvin Cheng, alvin@hongkongliving.com

Sales & Marketing

Sales director Hilda Chan, hilda@hongkongliving.com

So, catch the trade winds. Explore. Dream. Discover. Happy exploring!

Sales & Marketing executive Isamonia Chui, isamonia@hongkongliving.com Corrie Tang, corrie@hongkongliving.com Johnny Wong, johnny@hongkongliving.com

Accounting

Assistant Operations Manager Charles Lau, charles@hongkongliving.com

Digital

Digital co-ordinator Julianne Dionisio, julianne@hongkongliving.com

contributors

Publisher

Tom Hilditch, tom@hongkongliving.com

Thanks to

Jeramy Lee Kaitlyn Lai Gabrielle Tse Dr. Pauline Taylor Paul Zimmerman

Amelia Sewell …is the Education Editor for Hong Kong Living. With a background in education consultancy, specialising in UK boarding schools, she moved from London to Hong Kong four years ago. She loves P.G. Wodehouse and hates celery. She lives in Mid-levels with her husband and toddler.

Chaussette b. …is this month’s cover artist. The Hong Kong-based French photographer loves playing with perspectives and dimensions. Her way of having fun is to gallivant about the streets of Hong Kong and record the sounds of the city, from traffic noise to old ladies chatting on a bus. Her surreal works are currently on display at Sense 99.

Ifat Kafry Hindes …is an advocate for all things related to health and wellness. Born in Israel and raised initially in the Caribbean and predominantly in Hong Kong, she is the founder of Hong Kong’s first entirely gluten-free restaurant and bakery, Choice Cooperative, and also Project Wellness, an all-round initiative to promote healthy eating and living.

Want to write for Mid-levels Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com 2 | hongkongliving.com

Published by Hong Kong Living Ltd, L1 Kai Wong Commercial Building, 222 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong Printer Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong

HONG KONG hongkongliving.com Mid-levels Magazine is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Mid-levels Magazine cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or the pubisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

hongkongliving.com | 3

people Mid-levels snaps

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have your say Hong Kong Living Charity Summer Lunch

QUESTION OF THE MONTH “How do you survive summer heat in Mid-levels?”

Sunscreen!

- Nadège (grandmother)

Popsicle

- Aliénor I always drink cold beer. My own beer. Lebanese beer

- Joseph from Assaf

A bottle of cold water

- Deliss (mother)

A lot of snacks

- Fai (baby)

I don’t carry anything at all

- Matthew hongkongliving.com | 5

gleneagles

When global experience brings quality and transparency

hoosing a hospital may not be an easy decision. Not only are you looking for excellent medical care, but you also want to stay in a pleasant environment where you can make a full recovery and regain your strength. As Hong Kong’s newest private hospital, Gleneagles Hong Kong Hospital (GHK) knows what patients expect, and it delivers. GHK strives to bring high-quality and accessible healthcare services to Hong Kong people while catering to the needs of the city’s medically insured population.

Premium healthcare anchored in a global network

Since opening its door in 2017, GHK has been serving patients from different parts of the city. A joint venture between Parkway Pantai, one of Asia’s largest integrated private healthcare groups, and NWS Holdings Limited, GHK leverages international experience, network and expertise from Parkway Pantai and IHH Healthcare, one of the world’s largest healthcare groups by market capitalisation and the parent company of Parkway Pantai. Being part of a global network of about 50 hospitals, GHK is able to bring to patients new technologies and concepts and the best medical practice.

Unique private-academic partnership

GHK’s exclusive clinical partner, the University of Hong Kong, oversees the hospital’s clinical governance, driving clinical excellence and continuous improvement in GHK’s service quality and patient care. This unique private-academic partnership, as well as enforcement of a robust and comprehensive credentialing system, ensures medical practitioners at GHK have the necessary qualification and experience to meet the highest professional standards and benchmarks.

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One-stop healthcare provider on Hong Kong Island

Located in the south of Hong Kong Island and commanding lush views of tranquil surrounds, GHK provides spacious, two-bedded, en-suite standard rooms, a unique feature among private hospitals in Hong Kong. There are also en-suite semi-private rooms, private rooms and suites that provide maximum comfort and privacy, ensuring restful stays and optimal recovery for patients. A hospital designed to meet the healthcare needs of different patients, GHK provides a full suite of medical services, including specialist outpatient clinics, radiology, cardiovascular laboratory, critical care unit, radiotherapy and oncology centre, endoscopy centre, chemotherapy centre, dialysis centre, health screening, and rehabilitation. The services are supported by cutting-edge equipment and top brands, including an automated medication dispensing system, 24-hour automated core laboratory track system, Positron Emission Tomography (PET)-MRI scanner - the second installation in Hong Kong, and a TRUEBEAM linear accelerator. Currently, GHK is the only private hospital on Hong Kong Island to provide round-the-clock outpatient and emergency medical services, which are managed by a team of Emergency Medicine specialists and General Practitioners. Patients with common or critical medical conditions can receive immediate care at GHK. The hospital’s patientcentric, efficient operation and setting allow patients to get consultation, have an inpatient stay or surgery within 48 hours of admission.

Peace of mind through fee transparency and assurance Unexpected costs in the final bill of staying in a private hospital may often take us by surprise.

At GHK, there is fee transparency that gives patients peace of mind before they are admitted for treatment. In all applicable inpatient cases, pre-admission fee advisory service is provided, so that patients are informed of the cost up front. They will also be advised on any additional charges before any relevant service or medical procedure is performed. Besides, GHK’s all-inclusive medical packages, which cover all services related to treatments for conditions, such as complications arising during the prescribed length of stay, also assure you of the maximum fee. At present, more than 120 packages are on offer, many of which are covered by ward-class insurance plans. With more services and package plans in the pipeline, GHK is poised to serve a wider spectrum of patients and meet their needs more precisely.

CONTACT: 1 Nam Fung Path, Wong Chuk Hang 3153 9000 gleneagles.hk In partnership with Gleneagles Hong Kong Hospital

what's on

y r Dia s e t da

THROUGHOUT JULY

Get to the beach Summer is in full swing! Pack your favourite magazines, a picnic and your best swimwear and head down to your favourite beach! See you on the sand.

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what's on

UNTIL JUL 15

Summer football fever at Le Meridien The PSI Bar will be broadcasting the football games live from Russia, with a selection of burgers and specials inspired by qualified teams. The broadcasts will start from 6pm onwards. Le Meridien, 100 Cyberport Road, Aberdeen. starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien

JUL 1

21st anniversary of the establishment of the Hong Kong SAR vs. annual July 1 march Enjoy the day off work and join in the celebrations, including parades, flag-raising ceremonies and cultural performances around the city. Or join the annual July 1 protest march!

JUL 1

National Ice-cream Month The famous ice-cream shop from Boston, Emack & Bolio’s, is celebrating ice-cream all month long this July with a range of exciting events. Enjoy buy-one-get-one promotions for those with birthdays in July and the chance to

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win some sweet prizes… literally! 26 Cochrane Steet, Central.

and Exhibition Centre. hkticketing.com.hk/ events/WCHKBAK0718

JUL 4

JUL 7

Celebrate in true American style with a barbecue, beer and a beats party. 6pm. $388. Lily & Bloom, 5-6F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central.

Explore the galleries in Hong Kong’s historic Pedder Building and learn more about modern and contemporary art. English tour 11am-1pm; Mandarin tour 2.30-4.30pm. $280, walk-ins $320. Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central.

American Independence Day

JUL 6-8

Hong Kong Bakery Carnival The carnival will consist of bakery workshops, parent-child activities, food tastings and on-site demonstrations by master chefs. Adults $80, children $40. Hall 5F, Hong Kong Convention

Pedder Building Gallery Tour

JUL 7 - AUG 26 SummerFest 2018

Relax and have fun, with outdoor art and light installations, garden games and a

Editor's pick kids’ playground. Free admission. Central Harbourfront Event Space. summerfestcentralharbourfront.hk

JUL 9-12 RISE 2018

Three days of legendary networking with people from some of the world’s biggest companies and most exciting startups. Regular tickets from US$680. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai.

what's on

The Melbourne International Comedy Festival Roadshow Hong Kong

JUL 9-15

Get a taste of Australia’s largest comedy festival! With stand-up, sketch and satire, this side-splitting mega-show is the highlight of the comedy calendar, not to be missed. Most shows at 8.30pm. $280$395. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Road, Central. hkfringeclub.com

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what's on Ocean Park Summer Carnival Featuring animal-themed parades and amazing shows every hour and over 100 exotic Caribbean food and drink specialities. Ocean Park, Aberdeen. oceanpark.com.hk

UNT SEP I2L

JUL 14

ARCH: En Route A Holistic Wellness Festival, featuring meditation, healing workshops and wellness brands. 11am7pm. Free. Central Harbourfront Event Space. arch-enroute.com

JUL 14

Yoga & Brekkie Yoga with a difference. Flow to hip-hop beats with Natalie Soderstrom and Aleksandra Milewicz. Smoothie bowls provided by Off the Chain Bowls. 9.45am-12noon. $300. The Hive, 33-35 Hillier Street, Sheung Wan.

JUL 18-24

Hong Kong Book Fair A week-long event organised by the HK Trade Development Council, including publishersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; exhibits and plenty of books! Adults $25, children $10. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai.

JUL 9-12

HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/Summer Check out all the latest wow-worthy looks. Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai.

JUL 10

Hong Kong International Guitar Symposium Opening Concert The Opening Concert will feature two leading guitar duos: Xu Tuo and Wang Ya Lun from

Beijing and Italian duo SoloDuo. 8pm. $280. The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai.

JUL 14

ArlixMeet Teen Entrepreneurs Conference A conference run by teenagers and young people from around the world who are interested in learning about startups and entrepreneurship. Free. NakedHub, 7F Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan.

JUL 27- 28

3rd Asia International Comedy Festival Featuring some of the top comedians in Asia, including Garron Chiu, Evans Musoka and Byron Murphy. 9pm. $300. TakeOut Comedy Club, 34 Elgin Street, Central. takeoutcomedy.com

JUL 27-31

Ani-Com and Games Fair The hottest event in the digital entertainment, comics, animation, video games and toys and collectibles arena. $35 tickets available onsite and in advance at 7-11 or Circle K convenience stores. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. ani-com.hk

JUL 28

Big Band Night Formed in 2010, the Island Express Jazz Orchestra specialises in large-ensemble arrangements by modern jazz composers. 9.30pm. $180. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Road, Central. hkfringeclub.com

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what's on

BOOK NOW AUG 4

Bob Dylan Never-Ending Tour He’s back! It’s been seven years since Bob Dylan’s last concert in Hong Kong, and tickets are sure to sell out fast. 8.30pm. $488-$1,288. Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. hkticketing. com/events/ WCBOBDY0818

by international experts, including Michelinstarred chefs. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, hktdc.com/ hkfoodexpo

SEPT 22

Jessie J R.O.S.E. Tour British singersongwriter Jessie J is coming to Hong Kong for the first time as part of her huge World Tour, to perform her highly anticipated fourth album, R.O.S.E. 8pm. Tickets from $698. Hall 10, Asia World Expo, asiaworldexpo.com/events/detail/jessie-j-the-rosetour-hong-kong

AUG 16

OCT 20

Sample gourmet treats from across the globe and watch live demonstrations

Enjoy all of Mariah Carey’s greatest hits at her first-ever concert in Macau. 8pm. $480-$1,780. Cotai Arena at the Venetian, Macau. cotaiticketing.com

Food Expo

Mariah Carey World Tour

Want to share your event with our readers? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com

GIVEAWAYS

win at hongkongliving.com

Porcelain toy cars

DOCK E30 speaker

Up for grabs: 30 porcelain toy cars painted by disabled children

Up for grabs: A DOCK E30 speaker, valued at $4,500

From: The Society for the Relief of Disabled Children (SRDC), a local children’s charity whose mission is to provide medical, surgical, rehabilitation and educational services to disabled children in Hong Kong. They support the Duchess of Kent Children’s Hospital in the emerging areas of child health, not readily available in the public healthcare system. srdc.org.hk

From: CY Audio Visual Solutions. The company provide unique and innovative AV solutions for homes, schools and performance venues. With Airsound™, audiences can enjoy a balanced, undistorted stereo sound within a 160-degree angle coverage. The DOCK E30 speaker features a wireless charger and a docking groove. cyavs.com

Tickets to the International Comedy Festival Up for grabs: Two pairs of tickets for the 3rd Asia International Comedy Festival From: TakeOut Comedy Club is the first full-time comedy club in Asia. The 3rd Asia International Comedy Festival features acts from some of Asia’s top comedians including Garron Chiu, Evans Musoka and Byron Murphy. The shows are at 9pm on July 27 and 28. takeoutcomedy.com

Dinner for two Up for grabs: A dining voucher for two at A.O.C. Eat & Drink From: A.O.C., which stands for the French term “appellation d’origine contrôlée”, serves up a variety of seafood, meat and cheese dishes perfect for sharing, by chef Stéphane Guillas. The seasonal summer menu includes small bites such as mussels and homemade farmhouse pork rillettes, and a butcher’s corner with a variety of meats. aoceatndrink.com

Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: hongkongliving.com hongkongliving.com | 11

must have this month TRIWA Sunglasses Midnight Klara $1,195 from Triwa TRIWA Mira Place 1 Popup Store, LG-B, G/F Mira Place 1, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui triwa.com

Stuck On You Personalised Sun Hat $199 from Minifab stuckonyou.com Charlotte Tilbury: Pretty Youth Glow Filter $410 from Lane Crawford lanecrawford.com

Pack like a pro

Charlotte Tilbury: Cheek Hug Brush $410 from Lane Crawford lanecrawford.com

Kick off your summer with these holiday essentials

Berelax My Memory Foam Wellness Pillow HD-Blue $298 from Log On B1/F, Times Square, Causeway Bay logon.com.hk

Teresaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Turkish Towels Pineapple Towel $300 hkturkish.com

Invisible KIDS Sun Protector Spray SPF50+++ $320 from Moraz Galilee Mannings, Shop B, G/F, 517 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay moraz.hk

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must have this month Do Not Disturb straw hat $159 from Black Coral blackcoralxo.com

The Centerfold Garment Sleeve US$65 from Away awaytravel.com

TRIWA Watch Raven Nevil $1,380 from Triwa TRIWA Mira Place 1 Popup Store, LG-B, G/F Mira Place 1, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui triwa.com

X-Toosh Herbal Insect Repellent $240 from Moraz Galilee Mannings, Shop B, G/F, 517 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay moraz.hk

Fly High Bird Glider $75 from Minifab seedling.com.hk

Ottoman leather sandals in coral printed fabric $1,550 from La French Cut The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central Lafrenchcut.com

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news

Two long-established HK institutions left us... Two well-loved retail companies in Hong Kong closed down recently. They will be sorely missed... Aluminium, the Hong Kong furniture company credited with bringing the European designer chair culture to the city, has closed down unannounced. Customers who have paid in full on its furniture products - from several thousands to more than $100,000 - are left with just the till receipts, while their purchased products remain undelivered. All five Aluminium stores, including the one in Cochrane Street, Central, have closed down. David Chiu, who founded Aluminium in 1999, reportedly disappeared on 11 May. Numerous customers wrote on Aluminium’s Facebook page to share their plight. Some have filed complaints to the Customs department (24hour hotline: 2545 6182) or the Consumer Council (2929 2222).

HONG KONG is getting cheaper, says survey Here’s some good news: Life in Hong Kong is getting more affordable for expats, at least according to a survey. Last year, Hong Kong was ranked the second-most-expensive location in the world, but this year we are down to the 11th. The reason? Exchange rates. This was one of the findings in the latest costof-living survey conducted by human resources consulting company ECA International. “Hong Kong has seen a significant drop in our cost-ofliving rankings for overseas workers, falling behind locations such as Tokyo, Seoul and Shanghai,” said ECA International’s regional director in Asia.

“The main reason behind the drop is the fall in value of the US dollar, against which the Hong Kong dollar is pegged.” But when it comes down to the nitty-gritty, Hong Kong can be more expensive than cities like London and New York (see the illustration).

Hong Kong Records, the largest local music retail shop that has been around for nearly three decades, closed its shops at Pacific Place and Harbour City in Tsim Sha Tsui in late June after several loss-making years. In 1989, Siu King-chin, a violinist of the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra violinist, opened a small music store called “Do Re Mi” at Pacific Place. At that time, HMV and Tower Records had not even come to Hong Kong. The store was renamed Hong Kong Records in the mid-1990s and had been doing a roaring trade in the decade that followed. Many of its fans will not forget the big jazz and classical room where they could listen to music in a comfy, peaceful setting. RIP.

Unique exhibition showcases THE beauty of Chinese characters You may be an expert in Chinese characters, or you see them as some indecipherable squiggly lines. Regardless, Hanzi Exhibition at PMQ is set to change your perception of one of the oldest continually used writing systems. Curated by local veteran designer Benny Au, this exhibition, which ends on 10 July, goes beyond the mere typography of Chinese characters (hanzi in Mandarin) but probes into the essence of the unique written form. It showcases works by renowned local artists including Kan Tai-keung and Sammy Or. Visitors are also invited to design the exhibition’s choice of hanzi of the day, and express, through art, what the particular character means to them. Go to pmq.org.hk for more details.

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news

Endangered whale sharks spotted in HONG KONG waters A whale shark, the world’s largest fish listed as endangered, was recently spotted in Hong Kong waters. Video footage captured by a local fisherman shows the big, gentle fish is swimming around his boat. The footage was later handed over to Lamma Island resident and conservationist Richard Lockyer, who then posted it on social media. Lockyer made it a point that the location where the shark was spotted is kept under wraps as the fisherman wants to protect it from hunters. Unlike in Taiwan and the Philippines, and it is legal to hunt and kill whale sharks in Hong Kong’s waters. They are not sought for food, but restaurants sometimes use their fins as displays or trophies. Their global population has declined by half over the last decades. Lockyer said that in May there were two other local sightings in Hong Kong of two different whale sharks, indicating “our water quality and plankton levels are increasing, which is a good sign”. Not that we should get complacent though. To see the footage of the shark dated 31 May 2018, go to facebook.com/arobert.lockyer

Book Fair

Summer is here and it’s time to take to the beach. And perhaps bring along a book to read under the sun? Then make sure not to miss the 2018 Book Fair. Thousands of books - many in Chinese but there’s no shortage of English language books - will go on sale at discounted prices at the annual event, to be held from 18 to 24 July at the Hong Kong Exhibition and Convention Centre. The line-up of international writers attending the fair this year is marked by a strong presence of female writers, including renowned French novelist Chantal Thomas, who will talk about the power of women in the 18th century. Hong Kong’s Nashua Gallagher, founder of Peel Street Poetry, will join Mexican writer Diana Coronado to talk about Spanish poetry. For more information, visit hkbookfair.hktdc.com

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Photo credit: H Queen’s

local

Delightful debut

Joshua Roberts visits H Queen’s in Central, a welcome addition to Hong Kong’s cultural scene

pening earlier this year, just in time for Art Basel Hong Kong 2018, H Queen’s has caused a stir, offering a unique commercial and cultural mix with the self-proclaimed aim of being “a new icon of urban aesthetics”. Since then, it has successfully demonstrated its potential as a popular centre for art, dining, entertainment and, in true Hong Kong fashion, prime office space. Beyond the buzz, we look into what H Queen’s is, and lift the curtain on the venue’s galleries and restaurants, and the stimulating events it promises on the horizon.

Location, location, location Set at the intersection of Queen’s Road Central and the stone stairs of Pottinger Street, and barely one minute’s walk from the Mid-levels escalator, H Queen’s occupies a truly advantageous position in the middle of bustling Central. Adding to the existing cluster of galleries in Pedder Building and the recently opened Tai Kwun, H Queen’s is part of a somewhat surprising and unlikely hub for arts

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and culture that has recently emerged in the centre of the well-known financial district.

Not your typical office block Well, almost. The building was originally slated to be just another typical commercial office tower (snore!), but the developers unexpectedly chose to redefine the programme and reconceptualise the building into a mixed-use complex with a significant arts and culture component. They called in CL3, an award-winning architecture and interior design firm based in Hong Kong, to bring that vision into reality. Now, H Queen’s offers eight internationally renowned galleries plus two retail and lifestyle boutiques. In addition, and quite literally on top of all this, the 25th and 26th floors are host to two restaurants offering stunning panoramic views of Victoria Harbour.

Excitingly enticing For pedestrians shuffling past, the doubleheight public gallery space HART at ground

level confirms yet again that H Queen’s is unique. The space is open and arresting, and clearly beckons passers-by to pause and investigate the exhibitions inside. Those with a bit more time can venture into the chic and fashionably dark entry lobby and take a quick elevator ride up to something entirely new. This is where the building truly shines. The large, nearly five-metre-high spaces offer expansive, non-traditional and naturally lit spaces unique in Hong Kong’s gallery scene.

Architecture is about people Stunningly sleek from the outside, H Queen’s could still deceptively appear at first as just another contemporary office tower. But it slowly reveals itself as a sly reinvention of the traditional tower block. The overall massing and extremely well executed curtain wall incorporate the best in contemporary architectural and sustainable design by utilising a combination of new technologies for great environmental and aesthetic impact. Outlining his original ambition for the project,

local architect William Lim said: “Architecture is about people. I believe that architects are only doing part of the job – the rest is shaped by the occupants of the space.” Now, a few months after the opening, when asked about the ongoing evolution of the building, he commented: “Since March, when most of the galleries started to occupy H Queen’s, it’s been wonderful to see the variety of spaces that have resulted, and the diversity of exhibitions that have taken place, from paintings to large installations, from emerging Hong Kong artists to internationally established artists. It is also great to see students and Hong Kong people coming to view the exhibits. I think H Queen’s has really filled the need for quality gallery spaces in the heart of the city, allowing top artists a space to showcase their talents.”

What’s on? On show this month at H Queen’s are two stunning exhibitions, one by Philip Guston at Hauser and Wirth and a solo exhibition by Liu Wentao at Pearl Lam Galleries. The Arbor and Ecriture restaurants are now open on the upper floors, to be complemented by Peruvian and Greek establishments that are set to open soon. M

The new hub of Hong Kong’s art and lifestyle

Photo credit: H Queen’s

H Queen’s Central, 80 Queen’s Road Central. Galleries are generally open Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-7pm hqueens.com.hk

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five minutes with

Chaussette b.

The up-and-coming artist reflects on what inspires her The first time I came to Hong Kong for a holiday, I found myself seduced by her effervescence. I was also struck by how nature here could be as close as a stone’s throw away from the urban sprawl. When I hiked the Dragon’s Back Trail on my first hiking trip in Hong Kong, I was most surprised to discover that behind all those giant buildings there was the mountain and the sea, preserved in their pristine beauty! For the past six years, I have been calling Hong Kong home. For 15 years, I had worked in supply chain management for luxury brands in both Paris and Hong Kong. I didn’t decide to be an artist; I just decided to stop working 60 hours a week, and to dabble in all the things I had never managed to find the time for. It was 2016. I came up with a list of things I wanted to try out, which included driving a truck, learning to be a carpenter, painting and making jewellery. My ideal was to engage in something that would clear my mind and keep me open to all sorts of possibilities without suppressing any of my aspirations. In the process of opening a new chapter in my life, I didn’t feel anxious or anything like that. I knew that I could afford to take a break for a year. With that established, the creative juice inside me flew freely. I was able to think without inhibition and allow myself to get carried away by my aspirations and desires. I tried out almost everything on that list. Eventually I whittled it down to two things: painting and photography. I wanted to dabble in paintography, which is a combination of digital photography and digital painting,

because that would allow me to explore ways to deal with my photographic works with a very fresh approach. Playing with perspectives and dimensions of the human body is what I love doing in my art. I often dismember the bodies of my models, play with perspectives and induce the viewer to take a poetic look at their own feelings. Objects are simple and passive, whereas living beings are complex. Besides, I love the variety of shapes and volumes of the human body. Joints, knees and elbows resemble tree knots. Toes can be compared to organisms living in the sea. Human hair can flutter at the slightest breath of air. And all these are nested together. That’s absolutely fascinating! Art in Hong Kong is getting democratised today. It is now open to a wider spectrum of audience-members, with the birth of many new galleries, new artists getting exposure, and bars and restaurants happy to display the works of newcomers to the local art scene.

Hug, a paintograph on show at Chaussette b.’s solo exhibition

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This new development gives me incentives and allows me to show my works in places like Sense 99. That would not be possible in Paris, where the art scene is already established and saturated, leaving little room for newbies.

But then when you see how fast Hong Kong is moving in many aspects and how more and more people here yearn to express their ideas, it is rather surprising that the local art scene has yet to explode. My home is in southwest Lantau, in an area with no shops or restaurants at all. When there is nothing but the sea around you, with minimum visual or audio distractions, there is room for imagination and creativity. I really enjoy coming to busy Central one or twice a week, strolling around the streets near Jamia Mosque like a tourist, sipping a glass of wine in some bar with a small terrace, and popping into places like Peel Fresco for some live music. But probably nothing can compare to Tai Kwun. This place is simply incredible. With its maze of staircases and corridors, it is a small neighbourhood in a league of its own. Chaussette b.’s works are on display at her solo exhibition, “Cliché”, until 17 July at Sense 99, 2/F, 99F Wellington Street, Central. 9466 4695. Instagram: @chaussetteb M

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cover story

reasons to love

Mid-levels 20 | hongkongliving.com

cover story

The Morning Trail. Views of sunrise over the city, and literally the law is everyone has to say “Good morning” or “Jo san” to each other, or to the respectable lady with the nose ring sweeping the leaves, “Namaste!”

Hopewell Centre, an overlooked 60’s classic with an abandoned feng shui pool on the roof, whose raison d’être is to counteract the negative energy from the candleshaped tower (in feng shui, a candle denotes death), meaning to put out the “fire”.

Glenealy. Not Glenealy Street or Glenealy Road. Just one word. Love the fact that it’s one of the very few streets in Hong Kong without a suffix.

Conduit Road Service Reservoir Playground. A gem hidden behind several flights of steep stairs up on the hill. Quote by two 10-year-old twins: “It’s our secret playground!”

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Peanut butter on toast at the dai pai dong on Gough Street. Thanks Irene!

General out-patient clinic at Kau U Fong, a cheap but high-quality public healthcare service.

L’s Where, the furniture store at On Wo Lane. Beautiful, very beautiful stuff.

That beautiful, secluded two-storey building with a pitched roof on 1 Conduit Road, built around 1901 as the gatekeeper’s lodge of the adjacent Marble Hall, the residence of a rich Calcutta-born Armenian merchant.

Jamia Mosque. Don’t just stare from the outside. This beautiful place welcomes non-worshippers, too. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.

Rednaxela Terrace. A legendary mistake committed in the days before spellchecker. It remains a conjecture, though, whether “Alexander” was spelt backwards because some local government officer mistakenly thought English was written from right to left as in the traditional Chinese way.

The boundary stone on Hatton Road, one of at least seven such stones marking the limit of the City of Victoria, the de facto capital of Hong Kong during the early days of the colonial period.

Select 18, a vintage shop stacked with colourful bits and pieces that made old Hong Kong.

Read the first word backwards!

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Peel Fresco. Live music keeps us alive!

The Old Man, a secret, handsome bar inspired by Ernest Hemingway.

The 9th Muse, an indie jewellery shop hidden on the 12th floor of a building, where you can find chic, hard-to-findelsewhere stuff.

Float On HK, Caine Road. The closest you can get to be a spaceman and be weightless.

The Monogamous Chinese, tucked away under the Mid-levels escalator, with retro-chic interior and tasty, authentic Sichuan and Peking dishes. InBetween, a small, cool shop housing everything from typewriters to old movie posters to new designer products.

Live Zero on High Street. Hong Kongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first zero-waste store. Bring your

own jars.

Loversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Rock, the striking granite monolith off Bowen Road that is supposed to have the superpower to solve your relationship or fertility problems. The phallic shape says it all... Asia Society + AMMO restaurant. Simply genius.

AMMO, the stunning restaurant at Asia Society.

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W Place on Wyndham Street. An originally nondescript old building that has morphed into a boutique low-rise with a unique facade – the metal elements are deliberately laid out randomly so that no two storeys look the same.

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Pound Lane, the tranquil gem. No escalator, please! Cat Street, a time capsule with artifacts and - if you’re very lucky - antiques.

Italian Cuisine P & S on 65 High Street. Don’t worry about the modestlooking interior – they serve super-good steak.

Cawah Arts Gallery, a quiet place on Square Street where you can learn painting and calligraphy from the nice teachers, on a one-off or regular basis.

Premier Cru on High Street. Hong Kong’s first “French wine library”, a relaxing, sociable place to drink wine and chat

with strangers. Bonus point: the secret backyard (just keep your voice down late at night lest you should disturb people living upstairs).

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The Foreign Correspondents’ Club. 70s cocktails for just $28.

Aberdeen Street Restaurant & Bar. “Oystermania” offer every Wednesday. Six oysters with one glass of wine for $150! Terrace is the bonus point.

The Zoological and Botanical Gardens, Hong Kong’s oldest park. We especially dig the 19th-century pavilion!

Salon 10. Smashing, quirky bar with arguably the best live music in town.

Indosiam Rare Books. A treasure trove that’s been going for 15 years, offering rare books and prints about former French colonies in Asia. And the wonderful smell of old books!

“Yuen Long-Based God” graffiti on 11 Aberdeen Street. Hopefully he won’t get annihilated by some philistine government officials.

Indosiam Rare Books’ owner Yves Azemar and his collection of rare books

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Club 71, but not for their limited drink list. But hey, who cares about the tipple here? It’s all about the sense of community, the Bohemian vibe, and the cool stray cats.

Visage One, which cuts your hair by day and and plays you great jazz music by night. Where else in Hong Kong?

Sense 99, for the steep staircase of the pre-WWII building, the high ceilings, balconies and happy faces when live music is on.

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G.O.D. So Hong Kong, so cool!

Centre Street, the steepest slope in Hong Kong, a.k.a. the birthplace of “cardboard sledding” in old Hong Kong, whereby local children created makeshift sleds out of cardboard and slid all the way down to Queen’s Road West. And great fresh seafood at the wet market!

Living Art Cafe, easily overlooked but not to be missed for coffee-lovers and hipsters with a Mac.

Ping Pong 129 Gintoneria, for its vast, cool industrial interior, chilled vibe and neon signs.

Yu Kwen Yick on Third Street, maker of the best chilli sauce in the world. 100% homegrown!

Books & Co on Park Road, where you can just grab a (second-hand) book and sit down to read quietly for hours. The wellbrewed coffee is a plus.

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Man Mo Temple, the old pride of Hong Kong.

Yau Hang print shop on Wellington Street. So organised! And to watch the owner and his wife silently pack up their tiny shop each night is to witness a kind of domestic kabuki performance.

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The Central-Mid-levels escalator. Goes without saying, right?

The sight and singing of yellowcrested cockatoos. Take off your

Fungus Workshop, the paradise of leatherlovers. Take a fourhour leather course for $1,680 here and you can walk away with the skills to make your own leather wallet, watch strap and even shoes. Individual creativity – and the divine smell of leather – run through the shop.

And five reasons we don’t love Mid-levels... No place in the world is perfect, Mid-levels included. What annoys or upsets you in Mid-levels? What is wanting and what should be banished? Here’s our mini list:

1. Fake monks Those monks you see begging for money in the Mid-levels and beyond are fake! They have nothing to do with Buddhism, and most can’t even recite a single line of Buddhist incantations. Real monks just don’t solicit money on the streets.

“Surprised to see me?”

2. Elderly poverty Imagine pushing a trolley-load of cardboard under the scorching sun or in the rain – and up and down the hilly streets of Mid-levels, just so recyclers will pay you $3 per catty (0.6kg) of the waste… Next time you see these elderly cardboard-box collectors, give them a helping hand at the very least.

headphones and look heavenward. Chances are you will hear and see a flock of cockatoos, especially around the Aviary in Hong Kong Park. These cute things are facing extinction but are thriving in Mid-levels!

Bowen Road. Quote from one Bowen Road runner: “In my 30s, I stopped taking ecstasy and started jogging on Bowen Road. It was the same experience: happy, smiling people, runner’s high and a constant sense of amazement at how beautiful Hong Kong is and how lucky I am!”

The Government is planning to build another hillside escalator between Hollywood Road and Bonham Road that will cut through Pound Lane. No date has been set yet, but if implemented, the plan will destroy the tranquility of Pound Lane and push housing prices up even further. Development can lead to progress, but it can also mean destruction, which we’ve seen too much in recent years. So, objection!

Tai Kwun, the new pride of Hong Kong.

4. Tree-chopping Our Government loves axing trees. In May, two old banyan trees on Bonham Road were cut down, causing a public outcry. The authorities said the trees were afflicted by fungal infections and at high risk of collapsing, but tree experts disagreed. We believe in finding a balance between tree conservation and public safety.

5. Traffic jams on Staunton Street and Aberdeen Street

Illustration by Kiyoko

3. Escalator plan on Pound Lane

During peak hours and on rainy days, and if you’re pressed for time and travel by taxi or car, avoid Staunton Street and Aberdeen Street at all costs, because it can take forever to get where you want to go. (Even walking along Staunton Street often means navigating a scary obstacle course!)

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Every one of you makes Mid-levels a nice, pleasant, creative and safe place to live.

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dining

Welcome to the world of healthy restaurant eating Ifat Kafry Hindes discovers nutritious dishes that won’t blow your budget

ating out is one of life’s great pleasures. But alas, meals at most restaurants in Hong Kong are not very healthy, or not healthy enough. They tend to be packed with processed food, sprinkled with MSG or too greasy. And restaurants that specialise in serving healthy dishes often blow your budget out of the water. I can’t help wondering whether it’s possible to eat restaurant meals in Hong Kong that are healthy, tasty and reasonably priced. So I recently set myself the task of debunking the myth that we can only eat healthily in certain types of restaurants, and within a certain budget. The results of my research are encouraging.

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Metropolitain Aspen Court, 46 High Street, Sai Ying Pun If you have a smaller budget, head to the French bistro Metropolitain, which I visited recently with some friends. Once the staff knew I was writing about healthy restaurant eating, I was told that there were only two healthy items on the menu. That was so not true! I found many items that were bursting with nutrition, thanks in part to chef Frank Lebiez, who understands the importance of using fresh, healthy ingredients. Highlights: Mozzarella Burrata with Cherry Tomatoes ($148); Quinoa Salad filled with butternut squash, pine nuts, avocados, raisins and pomegranate ($108); Chicken Butterfly with mustard,

breadcrumbs and garlic butter ($188). Verdict: Every bite was so heavenly that even now I’m still craving that lunch. The welcoming, homely feel was a big plus.

Flamingo Bloom G/F, Shop B, World Trust Tower, 50 Stanley Street, Central This place recently launched a new healthy range of summer drinks. There’s an awesome selection of traditional Chinese tea house specialities, modernised with a special twist. The menu is again great for those on a budget. Highlights: Neua Pad Med Mamuang, which is stir-fried beef with cashew nut, dried shiitake mushroom, fresh mushroom,

dining

Café Siam mixed bell pepper, onion and carrot ($168); Shrimp Red Pumpkin Curry shrimp red curry (with no fish sauce. Bravo!) ($128); Rice Paper Roll with fresh mango, shrimp, mixed green and mint ($98). Verdict: What I liked most was that they add grapes instead of teaspoons of sugar to add extra sweetness as needed. Also, they use paper straws!

Sisombath 4/F Jade Centre, 98 Wellington Street, Central The menu at Sisombath, a Laotian noodle and snack restaurant in the heart of Central, was created by chef Justin Chan, who has a background in nutrition and understands the nutritional value of every dish. Highlights: The broth of the Lao Vegan

21 D’Aguilar Street, Central I’ve always looked at Thai cuisine as being quite healthy, with a variety of options. Café Siam, one of the city’s most established Thai restaurants, was on my list of healthy restaurants that I was eager to visit. Highlights: Café Siam recently launched its “Nutrilicious” menu, created by wellknown nutritional advisor Kim Murphy together with its chefs. Whilst the menu is not organic, it’s definitely healthier than most, with less sugar and salt and no deep frying. The most notable thing about the spread was the bright colours. As the adage goes, “Eat your colours.”

Kwun complex. Sometimes healthy is not just in the food but also in the mind. So with a glass of vino in hand, Rhomberg and I relaxed and enjoyed a fascinating conversation about the vision behind this place as we ate traditional Chinese cuisine. Highlights: Dishes here are cooked with organic ingredients where possible. The Cucumber Pickles were perfect ($68); the Har Gao ($65) was made to perfection; the King Prawn topped with homemade fermented XO sauce and broccoli was divine ($280). A bonus point was the main dining room, which transported us back to another time. This adventure definitely won’t be the last in my mission, as I continue to document the surprising and littleknown healthier eats around town.

Photo credit Nate Jin @urbaneneat

Soup, made with the freshest veggies and loaded in nutrients ($68); the special crepe (it instantly become one of my favourites) ($68); Steamed Rice Spring Rolls made with an in-house sauce ($38). Verdict: I love how the chef has made healthy eating so affordable. If you’re lucky, you might be able to see him – he’s friendly and always up for a chat!

Madame Fu Shop 3, 3/F, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central Created by Kee Club’s Christian Rhomberg, Madame Fu is located in the cool new Tai

Hindes with Madame Fu’s owner Christian Rhomberg

NIBBLES

News from the dining scene

Summer sessions on Mercato’s balcony

New juice bar opens on Star Street Athletic Juice & Espresso Bar has opened on Star Street in Wan Chai, with a vast array of smoothies, juices and espresso drinks on the menu, and even a build-your-own-blend option. The aim is not only to provide delicious tasting juices but also to promote a healthy lifestyle by using the freshest and best-quality fruits. For their coffees, they have a special house blend with beans sourced from all over the world, as well as a selection of plant-based milks for those who are vegan or lactose-intolerant. 2E Star Street, Wan Chai. facebook.com/ athleticjuicenespressobar

Pret A Manger launches new vegan and vegetarian options The popular London coffee chain has released a selection of vegan and vegetarian options this summer. The menu includes a range of fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and dessert pots, all using plant-based and natural ingredients. The new offerings are available at most branches in Hong Kong. Shop 1015, Level 1, IFC Mall, Central. pret.hk

This summer, expect plenty of post-work trips to the outdoor balcony at Mercato by Jean-Georges. From Sunday to Thursday, for just $198 per person, enjoy two hours of free-flow spritz, Prosecco, wine and beer, accompanied by complimentary traditional Italian small plates including Fritto Misto, Bruschetta and Daily Pinwheels. Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-8:30pm (yes, the offer applies to only a two-hour segment of your choice within that three-hour stretch). 8/F California Tower, D’Aguilar Street, Central. mercato-international.com

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home & living

How to snap up a tenant in just

36 HOURS Interior designer Oliver Corrin maximises the space in a Gough Street studio

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home & living

t helps to have creative friends, particularly when you have an apartment to renovate. As soon as Tom Hilditch, publisher of Hong Kong Living, decided it was time to rent out his Gough Street apartment, he called on friend and interior designer Oliver Corrin to come and help him out. The 375-square-foot studio in the heart of Central didn’t leave much room for Oliver to play with. “I walked in and there was a bed in the middle of the apartment, a sofa and a chair, and more light switches than an auditorium,” he tells me. Tom’s vision was of a flexible space for entertaining and sectioned-off sleeping quarters. Drawing inspiration from superyachts The first challenge was where to put the bed. Tom had a very clear picture in his mind of housing the bed in a built-in alcove. Previous designers had countered this suggestion, believing it wasn’t possible, but Oliver was happy to accept the challenge. “For me it wasn’t a challenge; it just wasn’t necessarily the easiest solution. “With all renovations there is an allocated budget, and as with any client my priority was to deliver the project on time and within the budget,” he added. “With this project being specifically for rent, the consideration for materials was very important – they have to be durable.”

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home & living

Concept sketches

Look at what you can reuse “Existing features such as the generous ceiling height, exposed brick wall and fully expandable terrace doors lent well to the space and I wanted my design to accentuate these features.”

Mid-levels man living in a Mid-levels world Tom envisioned a certain type of person living in the space. “I asked Oliver to create a space for a young, (probably) male professional who

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works hard and plays hard. I envisage this person to eat out often and therefore the kitchen space and cooking equipment were not a priority, however an induction hob to heat up the occasion beans-on-toast snack was essential.”

Build me up The interior was stripped and from there the space was rebuilt. The entrance door was relocated to the adjacent wall and the bed was housed in its place. The palette of materials was

based on nature to enhance the connection between the airy interior and leafy Gough Street. “We wanted to keep lighting to a minimum to create an ambience in the apartment, and this was achieved through the use of down lights and cove lighting on the exposed brick wall.”

Sleeping quarters “I took inspiration from previous superyacht projects. The bed needed to be intimate and cosy, but not claustrophobic.” Oliver achieved

home & living

Limited-edition race cufflinks by Timothy Oulton

this by maximising the headspace between the top of the mattress and the ceiling and applying a light ceiling finish. “We created a built-in shelf, a reading light and accessible powerpoints, just like you would have in a yacht cabin.”

Mars MK3 chair. It was perfect to partner with the saddle chair, they are both feature pieces but don’t fight each other.”

Oliver’s top 5 tips for renovating

The journey of life

• Always assess to see what can be reused, this adds character and saves on cost. • Shop around. Even if you’re on a budget, IKEA isn’t the only option. Consider exdisplay items from showrooms such as Decor8 and Indigo Living and haggle over price, particularly if there are any defects. • Don’t leave lighting until the last minute. Lighting is a key element for creating the right ambience. If you realise the lighting isn’t ideal, adding extra cabling at a later date can be costly and will cause delays. • A key aim is to create a timeless design that doesn’t rely on current trends or colour schemes. If you want to incorporate a trend, do it with a piece of furniture or artwork rather than a more permanent element such as the walls or flooring. • Do what you want because it’s your space. Don’t let a designer tell you something isn’t possible – there’s always a way (usually)!

Bathroom space is limited. “The obvious choice would have been to opt for a light palette to counter this, but I felt to be far too predictable.” Instead, Oliver chose black penny tiles, darkgrey grouting and hints of brass. “My vision was to create an extremely calming think tank. Tom has told me that he makes many of his best decisions while brushing his teeth so I felt he would approve of this calming and thoughtful space.”

“In ever-transient Hong Kong I would envisage the prospective tenant to have come from lands afar, so I chose Timothy Oulton’s Stonyhurst Coffee Table, which resembles a trunk – you know, just to make him feel at home.” Grace Leung, gallery manager at Timothy Oulton’s Gough Street store, adds: “Our Stonyhurst coffee table captures the romance of a bygone era while acting as a functional piece of furniture and a storage space, so I agreed with Oliver that it would make a great choice for the Gough Street apartment.”

Fabulous things

Friday on my mind

A busy renter needs a minimal yet luxurious environment. “I needed just a few key pieces and with Timothy Oulton’s gallery just across the road, it was an obvious choice. I have always admired Timothy’s artistic values and his vision to create pieces that are in keeping with intrinsic British craftsmanship. The fact that every piece of furniture is handcrafted from materials shipped from all over the world means that when I source from Timothy Oulton I’m incorporating pieces of usable art and history into my designs.”

“The guitar is an indulgence but if budget allowed (and it did!), I wanted to place a truly iconic piece,” Grace adds. “Of course no one ‘needs’ a limited-edition acoustic guitar, but that’s what makes it all the more special. The polished wood is hand-painted on the back with the Union Jack and the number 1966 – referencing the year the England football team held the Jules Rimet trophy above their heads in victory at Wembley, and each guitar is signed by Timothy himself.”

Saddle point

“I’m extremely proud of the finished result. It passed my test of ‘would I want to live here?’ with flying colours.” Tom adds: “The apartment rented out within 36 hours. A great job considering the agents were showing during a T3 storm, a less-than-ideal setting.”

Time to reflect

“For Tom’s apartment I chose Oulton’s Saddle Chair. It’s the first thing you see on entering and an instant showpiece.” The iconic chair can be turned into a saddle, complete with working stirrups. “I hoped this would reflect the humour and playfulness of our ideal prospective tenant. In complete contrast, I also opted for the white

A limited-edition acoustic guitar

Rented within 36 hours

Oliver Corrin is a fully qualified British interior designer who has worked on restaurant, residential and superyacht projects. One of his most notable projects in Hong Kong is the recent renovation of The American Club, Exchange Square. He’s happy to answer design-related questions – contact him at 5344 2570, corrinandco@outlook.com

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outdoors

The A to Z of buying a speedboat

Win friends and influence people with our how-to guide

ith 236 islands to play on, Hong Kong is loaded with idyllic destinations, from the Geopark and long swathes of golden sand in Sai Kung to the green-turtle nesting site at Sham Wan, Lamma. One of the best ways to get out there and explore is aboard your very own speedboat. Load the kids, a couple of friends and a cool box filled with drinks and off you go. Here’s our A-to-Z guide to buying a speedboat of your very own.

Awesome. Hold that thought. Make the most of this moment. They say the two best days of owning a boat are the day you buy it and the day you sell it.

Breaking down. In case of emergency, contact the Hong Kong Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre by telephone on 2233 7999. Alternatively, call the Vessel

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Traffic Centre (VTC) on V.H.F. (channel 12, 14, 67) or by telephone on 2233 7801.

Consortium. Buy a boat with friends and bond over beach picnics, sunsets and boat repairs. Make sure one member of your group is money-rich and time-poor (that shouldn’t be you!) and another is handy with a toolbox. Pay for dings and dents individually, but if the boat sinks you all go down together. Consortiums often run on gentlemen’s agreements, but you could have a contract that covers who owns what, how the boat will be managed and the amount of time on board. But we feel this just takes the fun out of it. Decision made. You’re going to buy a boat, now let’s get down to the nitty gritty: the cost.

Expense. How much is it going to cost? When budgeting, factor in costs such as mooring, fuel, maintenance and insurance. “The price range for day boats differs vastly” says David Walder, Sales Manager at Simpson Marine. “Flyers range from 40,000 euros (including delivery to Hong Kong) for a Flyer 5.5 (the smallest in the range) with one 100hp outboard engine to around 120,000 euros for a Flyer 8.8 with twin 200hp outboards.” “Beneteau Motorboats offer ranges such as Antares and Barracuda, which are slightly more expensive but have a proper cabin, air-conditioning and more storage. These boats are equipped for an overnight stay option. The Antares 7 with 150hp outboard would be around 75,000 euros, whereas the Barracuda 9 with twin 250hp outboards would be around 170,000 euros,” adds David.

outdoors “Should the buyer prefer to go for a second-hand option, we can find boats of different budgets and sizes, already in Hong Kong, from as low as US$30,000.”

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Fuelling up. Remember to do it before you set off. Go. Where to go: For dolphins… Head to Tai O fishing village for a glimpse of pink dolphins For diverse marine life… Cruise over to Starfish Bay in Wu Kai Sha For breathtaking land formations… Circle around the Hong Kong Global Geopark For an island getaway… Go to Tung Lung Chau in Sai Kung For an unforgettable sunset… Head over to Tai Mei Tuk for sunsets straight out of an oil painting

H I

Hebe Haven. (See ‘Y’ for our guide to yacht clubs.)

Insurance. In Hong Kong it’s mandatory to have third-party insurance coverage for your boat. Without this you will not be able to change the ownership of your boat or renew the yearly licence.

Junks. You’ll never be trapped on one again. Accept the invite. Rock up on your boat and leave with the coolest people.

Knots. A knot is a unit of speed equal to one nautical mile per hour. The term originated in the 19th century, when knots in a rope were used to measure the speed of a vessel. If you’re looking for something to give you an adrenaline rush, consider how many knots per hour your boat can travel.

Licence. Before you can drive your speedboat, you will need the relevant licence: a Pleasure Vessel Certificate of Competency. See over the page for our guide to getting a boat licence.

Mooring. On- and off-the-water space in Hong Kong is precious and finding a mooring can be the trickiest part

Tying the knot The Cleat Hitch knot is commonly used to tie a boat to a static dock. To tie one, take one full turn around the base of the cleat (the T-shaped piece of metal on a boat to which ropes are attached). Then take a figure-eight turn around one horn of the cleat and then the other. Finally, pass the line under itself and pull it tight.

of buying a speedboat. The Government has halted the transfer of mooring ownership in some marinas, resulting in price increases and long waiting lists. Renting a mooring or a hard stand (storage out of the water, often in multistorey racks) from a marina — Clearwater Bay Marina, Hebe Haven Yacht Club, Hong Kong Marina or the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club – is your best bet, although you will usually have to join the club first.

Naming your boat. “Seas the day” or “Ship happens”? Naming your boat is not a task to take lightly, so think carefully about how you want to be perceived on the waters.

Outfits. Stock up on stylish, functional staples but don’t try too hard. Decent boat shoes are a must, and remember that whatever you do to your hair it will be ruined after just a few minutes.

Popular. No doubt owning a boat will increase your popularity amongst your friends.

Question everything. Get answers before you sign on the dotted line. You need to have a good idea of the boat’s history and be aware of any problems that your boat may have. Problems = expense. Ask why the boat is for sale, why it is the price it is and how many owners it has had.

Registration. Yes, more paperwork. During a change of ownership, the boat must be de-registered from the previous owner and then re-registered in your

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outdoors name. Register your boat with the Marine Department of the Hong Kong Government. For more information, see “Licensing a pleasure vessel” at gov.hk

Typhoons. Typhoon season in Hong Kong runs from May to October. Keep up to date with notifications from the Hong Kong Observatory. The yacht clubs provide information on how to minimise damage during a typhoon. Most importantly, check your insurance policy for special terms regarding “named wind storms” and check that your mooring location is included in the policy.

Use. Why do you want a boat? This can be the most difficult question for firsttime buyers. Do you want to fish, relax or party?

V W

Visitors. Without a doubt you’ll blow their minds.

X-tra-ordinary. Enjoy this extraordinary experience — only a tiny percent of people on the planet will ever get to do it.

Worth it? It sounds like hassle, but when you take the wheel, with the wind in your hair and a gin and tonic on ice in your hand, it’s worth every second and cent it cost to get there.

Photo credit: Brett Pottinger

Simpson. Mike Simpson is the Don of the yacht world and founder of Asia’s longest-established yacht dealership, Simpson Marine. Thirty-five years ago Simpson built a yacht in Taiwan with a dream of sailing it around the world. When he reached Singapore, someone made an offer on the boat. He accepted, sold the boat and flew back to Taiwan to start again. When the boat was almost ready, the same thing happened again. He realised that perhaps there was a business for him, within a few weeks he had sold a third yacht, and Simpson Marine was in business. Mike is still at the helm of his company and commutes to work daily by boat from his home in Lamma. With over 300 listings of boats in Asia, Simpson Marine sells new and second-hand yachts across Asia from its base in Aberdeen, Hong Kong and 12 regional offices in Asia.

Owning a boat is sure to make your popular with your friends

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outdoors How to get a speedboat licence in Hong Kong Before you can drive your speedboat on Hong Kong waters, you’ll need to obtain the relevant certificate, the Hong Kong Pleasure Vessel Operators Certificate of Competence (PVOCC). There are two grades to this certificate: Grade I and Grade 2. Grade 2 entitles you to operate a pleasure vessel of 15 metres or less, with an unspecified engine power. The course is made up of two parts: Part A, which is Master, and Part B, engineering. Both are required to obtain the certificate. Grade 1 entitles you to operate any pleasure vessel in Hong Kong waters. You must have held a Grade 2 certificate for at least 12 months before attempting Grade 1.

Where to take the course Many brokers and marinas offer classes to get you up to speed. If exams are not your thing (and there’s a fairly high failure rate), freelance captains can be hired for around $800 a day.

Yacht clubs. Hong Kong has some great ones: Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club (RHKYC) Founded in 1890, this is one of the largest yacht clubs in the world and the only Hong Kong club that kept the “Royal” in its title after the handover. It has clubhouses in Kellett Island (Causeway Bay), Middle Island and Shelter Cove. rhkyc.org.hk The Aberdeen Boat Club One of Hong Kong’s main recreational

The Hong Kong Sailing Federation Courses are held three times a year, in April, August and November. Part A, the Master section, is held early in the month, and Part B, the engineering section, is held towards the end of the month. The price is $5,400 for ten lectures across a month.

Aberdeen Boat Club The Aberdeen Boat Club offers courses three times a year, in April, August and November. Again, the course is split into the two sections of the exam, with Part A being held early in the month and Part B towards the end. This course is cheaper, with both parts in total costing $3,400 for members and $4,000 for non-members. Fewer people take this course, so if not enough people sign up it might be cancelled.

Kong Sailing Federation recommends certain optometrists, however a test by any optometrist will do.

The exam The Marine Department Seafarers’ Certification Section in Central holds regular exams for both master and engineer certificates. The test, lasting one hour 50 minutes, is a multiple-choice paper, in English. It is usually taken on the computer, but can also be handwritten. For more information, visit mardep.gov.hk

Eye test The final requirement for owning a boat is to undergo an eye test, preferably before you take the course. The Hong

Hebe Haven Yacht Club In the bay of Pak Sha Wan in Sai Kung, Hebe Haven has good facilities, 240 swing moorings and hardstanding. It also offers repair services. 10.5 Miles, Hiram’s Highway, Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung. hhyc.org.hk

boating and sailing clubs. Facilities for yacht, speedboat and cruiser owners as well as two club houses with jetty and pontoon moorings. 20 Shum Wan Road, Aberdeen. abclubhk.com Aberdeen Marina Club Founded in 1984, Aberdeen Marina Club is one of Southside’s newest and most polished clubs. It offers both dry and wet berths as well as boat maintenance and servicing. aberdeenmarinaclub.com

Zero. Looking to buy a speedboat? You should have zero worries after reading this guide.

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education

The Harbour School - The Grove campus

The school that’s worth five stars

ong Kong parents can be forgiven if they’ve become a little numb to the hype of school jargon. In a city where education gets top billing and money is regularly poured into new schools, it’s not unusual to hear about state-of-the-art facilities and award-winning designs. This element of educational one-upmanship serves to raise parental expectations to the point where things that, under normal circumstances or in different countries, would be impressive can seem like standard practice here. So it was quite a surprise to visit a school and be genuinely and completely blown away by almost every element. The Harbour School (THS) is one of those rare educational Hong Kong beasts that no one seems to have anything bad to say about. Started 10 years ago in a commercial building in Kennedy Town, it has now grown to three campuses catering for different age groups, enabling a through school system as students

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education Science Center and the two marine biologists who run it. Full of weird and wonderful creatures native to Hong Kong waters – horseshoe crabs, sea cucumbers, clown fish... – it is used in tandem with science lessons to enhance the students’ understanding and give real-life examples to studies. Once the Marine Science Center has played its part, classes then move to The Black Dolphin, a 50-foot yacht moored in Aberdeen Harbour that acts as the school’s “on-the-water” classroom. This is inquiry-based learning at its truest.

Hands-on schooling

THS, a happy, positive and creative learning community

progress from one campus to the next. The Village is still located in Kennedy Town, while the Grove and the Garden can be found in Ap Lei Chau. The Grove, THS’s primary school for grades 1-6, officially opened in 2017, though there are still elements of the campus that are yet to be

Principal’s Office – Jadis Blurton What’s your Hong Kong story? I came here 22 years ago with my husband, who was given a job at Hong Kong University. I am a Child and Family Psychologist, so I started a private practice that evolved into the Jadis Blurton Family Development Center. I worked with kids, families and schools here in Hong Kong as well as other places in Asia for about 12 years before I was asked to take over THS. Gives us a brief synopsis of your career I started my first school when I was seven years old – The Two Horseshoe School – and have been interested in progressive education since then. I became a certified Montessori teacher before returning to university to get an MA in Special Education and then an MA and PhD in Developmental Child Psychology. I taught university classes for some time before becoming a Licensed Clinical Psychologist. I also have six children of my own, all with very different strengths and personalities, so I have had experience as a parent, a psychologist and an educator. What is THS’s greatest strength? THS’s greatest strength consists of the

finished – the swimming pool, for example, is on track to be completed for the start of the 2020 school year. But for all intents and purposes, THS is fully functioning and is resetting the benchmark for schooling in Hong Kong. It is hard not to be impressed by something as professional as their Marine

people who populate it – kids, teachers and families. It is a happy, positive and creative learning community filled with excitement and thought. It is always changing, progressing and evolving, and never standing still or doing things by rote. We all feel encouraged to think of new ideas and approaches and the air is filled with a vibrancy that one doesn’t find in many schools. What is a memorable book you’ve read recently? My favourite book over the past couple of years has been Most Likely to Succeed: Preparing Our Kids for the Innovation Era, which is an excellent analysis of the history of education, the current difficulties and what the future will bring. What is in the future for THS? We will continue to develop programming within our regular classes and our three “Centers of Excellence”. If we add a fourth Center of Excellence, it will be in the Arts. With Hong Kong as our base and model school, we may also expand THS into other countries. Which country is next on your list for travels? Ooh, can I talk about my last trip instead? I just got back from a 10-day trip to Kenya

All this is driven by the Head of School, Dr. Jadis Blurton, who might be the most passionate educator to ever touch the shores of Hong Kong. A clinical psychologist by training, she is so completely invested in the students and their progression that at times she resembles something more akin to a devoted mother rather than a principal. She is as informed as she is involved and clearly breathes THS day and night. With her psychologist’s hat on, her aim from the start was to create a small, progressive school that enhances critical thinking, teamwork and emotional wellbeing. “I envisioned a haven for learning, one that

with several of the THS High School kids, because they are building a Learning Center/ School for a public children’s hospital in Eldoret, Kenya. Many of the children treated there have long-term illnesses or injuries such as cancer or burns, so they needed a school that they could attend while hospitalised. The THS students had designed the school, and fundraised the entire amount to build and decorate it. Ground was broken a few weeks ago, and the Learning Center will be completed by August. facebook.com/ MerakiGiving As an educator, what would be your advice to Hong Kong parents when choosing a school? Remember that your children will be living in a world and workplace that is very different than the ones in the 19th and 20th centuries, so they need to develop skills and attitudes that are also different. It has never been more important for children to develop their passions and to find their “element”, so celebrate those interests and find a school that does the same. More and more, universities are looking for students who do or think in novel, passionate or interesting ways rather than “excellent sheep”. Employers certainly are.

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education

provides an education that is enjoyable and intellectually lively for its students and that recognises every child for his or her uniqueness and welcomes and encourages the diversity.” This is clearly a big statement and an even bigger challenge. But she is true to her word: the demographic of the students is such that 20% have some form of SEN (Special Educational Needs) and 20% are in the gifted

category (a phrase that, encouragingly, Blurton concedes that she dislikes – “Everyone is gifted at something.”). Under the umbrella of THS comes another organisation, The Children’s Institute (TCI), which is focused solely on the school’s SEN pupils, giving them the chance to be included in mainstream classes where appropriate whilst also getting the individual attention they need.

Learning the interesting way

Teachers are not lecturers but facilitators at THS

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From a learning perspective, THS states that its teachers are “not lecturers but facilitators”. Evidently so: this is certainly a place where you’re unlikely to see students sitting at desks behind closed classroom doors staring at a teacher. Instead, the classroom floors can all have their doors and walls pushed back to allow collaboration between rooms. During our visit there were pockets of students in various spaces, some sitting on the floor, others on chairs, all working away on joint tasks. Blurton says: “We value mental health and recognise that the tasks and personalities necessary for the 21st century are not enhanced by making students depressed and anxious or by having them sit facing forward, listening to lectures and taking tests.” This is not a formal school that stands on parade, perfectly polished. The focus is on the children’s happiness and inclusion; it does not

matter if a shirt is untucked or a few books are out of place. Instead, pupils are continually given the breadth to bring their own interests and curiosities into the classroom to see how they can adapt them to real life.

The theory in practice As an example, Grade 5 students take part in the school’s Global Issues Conference, and at the most recent one, a 10-year-old pupil discussed homelessness. Following his talk, he wrote to 15 university departments of architecture to suggest they provide a module in which their students learn to design homes for the homeless. At the time of writing, he had already received responses from MIT, Columbia and UCL. Aside from The Black Dolphin and the

education

Choosing between established and new schools by Anne Murphy, Director, ITS EDUCATION ASIA In Hong Kong, many of the international schools have been educating students since the late sixties, while others were only just established over the last two-to-three years and new schools will open for 2018-2019 Academic Year. The well-established schools have a long-standing reputation for providing the type of educational experience that many parents would like to see their children receive. Alumni data can offer a glimpse into the quality of a school’s services. Many established schools, such as ESF, Canadian International School, Chinese International School, German Swiss, Hong Kong International School and Kellett School have very impressive graduates every year. Some parents may be worried that new schools have no proven track record, no inspection reports, no parental feedback and no external exam results. But new schools have a whole lot to offer, from state-of-theart facilities, modern technologies to top-end resources as well as dedicated staff. Schools which have opened over the

past few years, have associations with renowned educational institutions. Such as Nord Anglia International School’s collaboration with Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), involves the implementation of science, technology, engineering, visual arts and mathematics (STEAM) programs across all 42 of Nord Anglia’s schools worldwide. The structure of the buildings and classroom design is something else to take into consideration. New schools and new campuses have inventive break-out areas, school gardens, classroom device integration and makerspaces. The Harbour School, which opened a new campus in August 2017 has one of the largest, most comprehensive makerspaces in any Hong Kong school. Collaborative learning spaces and adaptable and flexible layouts will be on offer at French International School’s new campus in September 2018. Shrewsbury International School, which will open in August 2018, has been very specific in the design for primary-

aged children even down to the choice of furniture. The overall design ensures there are a range of larger and smaller teaching spaces to allow for flexible tuition in groups or with individuals. Whether parents are looking into new or established schools, they should pay close attention to a school’s mission and the educational promises that school representatives make. What matters more than the number of years a school has been around is that a child is placed in a school that will provide them with the education they require to thrive.

develop, move with the times and adapt to what its students need it to provide. Of this Blurton says: “In many ways it is impossible to imagine THS’s future because it is impossible to imagine what the challenges

and capabilities of the future will be, but we hope that THS will continue to evolve to meet those challenges and capabilities in ways that we cannot yet fathom.”

ITS Education Asia provides an education consulting service that works with families and employers to find the right schools for individual children in Hong Kong, from nursery to secondary schools. ITS also offers research, policy and advisory services for corporations. For more details, contact es@itseducation.asia, 3188 3940 oritseducation.asia.

Marine Science Center, the school has one other “Center of Excellence”: the Foundry. This is home to the STEAM programme, where design, robotics and engineering all come together, both within the curriculum and in enrichment programmes. Students spend at least one full week here every term, in an immersive project that feeds off the knowledge and skills that they have been learning in the classroom. When the pool opens, it will also play a part in some STEAM projects as the school plans to hold competitive underwater robotics activities. On that note, you probably don’t need to be told that the pool will not be a standard, giant rectangle for lane swimming. Instead, it’s designed to mimic the form of a lagoon so that it can be used for snorkelling, SCUBA diving and the aforementioned subaqua robot wars.

What’s next? So while there are elements of THS that are a work in progress, this is less to do with the school not being ready and more to do with the fact that its aim is to continually

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woof

Ask a vet... Pet-care tips for summer. Dr. Pauline answers your questions Is it bad for animals to drink swimming-pool water? I’m not an expert in swimming-pool water, but common sense tells me it’s not good for your animals to drink water laden with the various chemicals that keep the pool water clean for humans. I suggest you get a suitable container and fill it daily with fresh tap water for your animals to drink, and don’t allow them access to drink from your pool. How do I introduce a new animal to my current pet? Without knowing more about your current and potential new animal, it’s difficult to give you specific advice. The simple answer for any introduction is to proceed carefully and slowly, and with supervision at all times. Expect on average at least two weeks of anxiety from your current pet before it will welcome a newcomer into its domain. Why is my cat moulting so much? Creatures throughout the animal kingdom undergo the process of moulting: the replacement of their horns, hair, skin or feathers.

Most mammals shed their hair in autumn to grow a thicker layer of protection for the winter, and vice versa for the summer. Living in hot and humid Hong Kong, most cats do not require a thick coat so they shed it more often. Can my turtle overheat? Yes it can, and it can die in a too-hot environment. However, like other reptiles, turtles, which are often referred to as coldblooded, generally maintain a body temperature that is comparable to their surrounding environment. Unlike most mammals, they cannot internally regulate their body temperature; instead they use an adiposetissue-based specialised system that in some species of turtle can amazingly control their core temperatures to +/- 18°C of the environmental temperature. What are common skin conditions for animals in the heat? Actually they are much the same as for humans. Overheating leads to dehydration and general itchiness and even sunburn, friction burns, thermal burns (from water in hoses left in

Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com

Walkies with Ah Man

inwin is a six-month-old Pomeranian. One day we decided to get a dog, and the next thing we knew we were at the pet store – it was a very spontaneous decision. As the frenetic business centre of Hong Kong, Central is flooded not only with people but also with vehicles of all shapes and sizes. Drivers always seem to be in a rush, and they’re very inconsiderate to pedestrians, let alone tiny dogs like Winwin. For his safety we usually take him to the Pet Corner on the Central and Western District Promenade. There’s a turf area for Winwin to run about, sheltered seating to shield us from the scorching Hong Kong summer sun, and a doggy toilet. Fantastic facilities aside, the breathtaking view of the Kowloon skyline from the promenade is definitely a bonus for us pet owners! We get

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to enjoy the best of both worlds when we take Winwin there. The Central and Western District Promenade is really easy to find. Next to the iconic Western Market (its red-brick exterior and Queen Anne Revival architectural style should make it easy to spot) there is a lift next to it that takes you up to a footbridge. Go across the footbridge towards Shun Tak Centre and you’ll find stairs leading down to the Sheung Wan end of the promenade. Facing the harbour, turn left and walk for about three minutes, you’ll find yourself at the Pet Corner. If you’d prefer to take a longer walk with your dog, you can always head towards Central.

The Central and Western District Promenade

Walkies

the sun), hot spots (moist bacterial areas on the skin), an increase in parasitic diseases (especially from fleas and ticks that bite, irritate and spread disease), blocked sweat glands, pre-cancerous dry skin patches called actinic keratosis, or worse, full blown skin cancers.

Dr. Pauline Pets Central veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.

Walk along the promenade to the Pet Garden, not far from Tamar Park. Winwin is always up for a walk in this busy district, because he loves people more than he loves his fellow dogs. So if you happen to be around and you spot a very enthusiastic white Pomeranian prancing towards you, it’s probably him!

Ah Man with Winwin

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zim city

Hong Kong’s water crisis What will the city do without water?

very day we see headlines screaming aspirations of being a smart city. And how I wish we could be collectively really smart about the way we run the city. Because the reality is often that we are not a very smart city. This became clear recently when the media reported on our empty reservoirs in May, after an unusual long dry spell, with images of dry cracked mud rather than water. Subtropical Hong Kong gets an average of 2,400mm of rain a year, with about one tenth of that coming in May. But for 2018, less than 170mm had fallen on the city for the first five months, under half the normal average for this period. Instead of responding with calls for better water conservation, the Government and its advisors were out in force, claiming that there was no need to worry and that we have ample water. Next of course it started to rain, and all worries about water were quickly forgotten. That is a pity, because access to water should be a serious concern for all of us in Hong Kong. Typhoons, rainstorms and humidity contribute to our “illusion of plenty” (I’m referring to the title of a report on Hong Kong’s water supply by ADM Capital and Civic Exchange). The report explains that our water

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policy and pricing agreement have led to wastefulness. About one-third of our water supply is lost through leaky pipes and other problems. This loss is roughly equivalent to our entire local water catchment. The report also sets out how Hong Kong has one of the world’s highest percapita uses of water. Hong Kong’s average domestic water consumption per person per day is 21% higher than the global average. Meanwhile, domestic water bills remain low, because they are subsidised. But the problem is deeper than price. Besides water gathered via local catchments that run through our country parks, about 80% of Hong Kong’s freshwater comes from Guangdong Province, specifically the Dongjiang, or “East River”. The “DongShen Agreement” with Guangdong Investment Ltd., which is majority-owned by the provincial government, gives Hong Kong rights to 820 million cubic metres of water per year. But we are not the only ones depending on this source. The East River also supplies seven booming mainland Chinese cities, where the demand for water is rising quickly. This at a time when concerns over future water supply are growing. Scientists at the Hong Kong Observatory are forecasting that besides higher sea levels, global warming

will result in a drop in annual rainfall and fewer rainy days. However, they say the rainfall will be more extreme when it does rain – again feeding our illusion of plenty. We are also faced with concerns about the water quality and pollution from the increased economic activity throughout the catchment area of the Pearl River Delta. For Hong Kong to be a “watersmart city”, we need to recognise and acknowledge these mega-trends we are facing and get ourselves ready. Our water should be priced at market value or replacement cost, assuming we produce it ourselves in Hong Kong. Desalination plants, increased water storage and the recycling of grey water do not come cheap. We need a new culture of water conservation, annual targets for a reduction in water consumption, and public awareness about the scarcity of water. Let’s flush out all our illusions of plenty and make our city water-smart. See civic-exchange.org/report/ water2017 for more information. Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.

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