Mid-levels September 2018

FAMILY | FOOD | TRAVEL | RUNNING SHOES

Mid-levels hongkongliving.com

magazine

September 2018

TOP 5 local running trails

Tai

Kwun TRIED

& TEST ED

HOW TO FIND THE PERFECT SCHOOL

2 | hongkongliving.com

Mid-levels magazine

The really useful magazine

4

September 2018

4 PEOPLE

26 COVER STORY

Snapped! Mid-levels social life

Top 5 running trails in Mid-levels

7 WHAT’S ON

32 HOME & LIVING

A round-up of happenings in September

11 GIVEAWAYS

34 PROPERTY TALK

Great things for you to win

12 THINGS WE’D BUY

Shrewsbury International School

40 TRAVEL

Really local news

Finland, the happiest place on earth

16 LOCAL

44 PETS

The disappearing street-food hawkers

Dogs’ routines

18 FIVE MINS

48 ZIM CITY

The art-inclined entrepreneur Arthur de Villepin

Paul Zimmerman on land reclamation

20 DINING

20

What’s hot in the property market

36 EDUCATION

What it takes to host a nice dinner party

14 NEWS

34

When doggies meet luxury

18

11

Our verdict on F&B options at Tai Kwun

7

40

26 “THERE’S NOT A BETTER FEELING THAN WHEN YOU HAVE FOUND THAT MOMENT OF BALANCE AND HARMONY WHEN BOTH RUNNING AND LIFE COME TOGETHER.” - JOAN BENOIT, GOLD-MEDAL OLYMPIAN |

hongkongliving.com 1

editor’s letter

A

Mid-levels

rthur Blank, the American businessman who founded the homeimprovement company Home Depot, said he loved running because “it’s so symbolic of life. You have to drive yourself to overcome the obstacles. You might feel that you can’t, but then you find your inner strength, and realise you’re capable of so much more than you thought.” Had Blank spent some time in Hong Kong, he might have added one point: with so many great running trails and so much beautiful nature, it just makes every sense to get out there and run in Hong Kong. It’s only September but many runners in town are back in action, re-emerging on the streets - and still more often on the various running trails of Hong Kong. Bravo. Check out the five great running trails in our cover feature. Be inspired, be healthy.

And wouldn’t life get even better when a good run is followed by a nice, healthy meal with friends in a fine place? A little more than three months after Tai Kwun’s opening, our foodie team decided it was time to do a quarterly review on the dining scene of the hippest dining

magazine

Editorial

Managing editor Gemma Shaw, gemma@hongkongliving.com Editor Shirley Lau, shirley@hongkongliving.com Sub-editor Kay Ross, kay@hongkongliving.com Contributing editor Nicole Slater, nicole@hongkongliving.com Media Trainee Jeramy Lee, jeramy@hongkongliving.com

Design

Graphic designer Sonia Khatwani, sonia@hongkongliving.com Mavis Wong, mavis@hongkongliving.com

Sales & Marketing

hub in town. We tried and tested all the F&B options in the former Central Police Station compound and delivered our verdict, hoping it will be of help to you.

Have a good time out there.

Sales director Hilda Chan, hilda@hongkongliving.com Sales & Marketing executive Isamonia Chui, isamonia@hongkongliving.com Corrie Tang, corrie@hongkongliving.com Johnny Wong, johnny@hongkongliving.com

Accounting

Assistant Operations Manager Charles Lau, charles@hongkongliving.com

Publisher

contributors

Tom Hilditch, tom@hongkongliving.com

Thanks to

Yau Yu-ching Gabrielle Tse Paul Zimmerman Sally Andersen

Contact us Admin: 3568 3722 | Editorial: 2776 2773 | Advertising: 2776 2772

Lloyd Belcher

Rachel Blundy

Little Jade

...is a photographer and filmmaker who specialises in action photography. He’s always been hard-wired to exploring the outdoors, but for him the most striking images have never been captured on camera, but are “etched deep within my being where they belong”. lloydbelchervisuals.com

…is a journalist from London who has been working in Hong Kong since January 2016. She loves running on the city’s trails, exploring its huge selection of eateries and learning Cantonese. She also enjoys travelling in Asia.

…is a Hong Kong-based illustrator. A painting fanatic since childhood, she loves the fact that art transcends languages and borders. When she’s not painting happily, she likes to daydream or watch movies from the 1980s.

Want to write for Mid-levels Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com 2 | hongkongliving.com

Published by Hong Kong Living Ltd, L1 Kai Wong Commercial Building, 222 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong Printer Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong

FAMILY | FOOD | TRAVEL | RUNNING SHOES

Photo by Lloyd Belcher; cover model: renowned Hong Kong runner Claire Price

Mid-levels hongkongliving.com

TOP 5 local running trails

HONG KONG

magazine

September 2018

Tai

Kwun

TRIED & TEST ED

HOW TO FIND THE PERFECT SCHOOL

hongkongliving.com Mid-levels Magazine is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Mid-levels Magazine cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

people Mid-levels snaps

4 | hongkongliving.com

have your say

QUESTION OF THE MONTH “What’s your favourite exercise?”

I liked to play field hockey from time to time back home. It doesn’t seem to be a popular sport in Hong Kong but I’d love to get involved in some local groups or clubs.” “It has to be swimming for me!

- Cute Couple I go to the gym every day; that’s how I make it look so effortless!

- The handstanding guru

Cycling! Hong Kong has some great paths for it.

- The keen student You can see with your own eyes that he loves to work out!

- The German gymgoer’s girlfriend hongkongliving.com | 5

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what’s on

SEPT 22-23

IRIS: Your Escape

Get your “Om” chants at the ready as health and wellness festival IRIS returns for its seventh instalment. The weekend festival inspires people to become a better version of themselves through yoga, meditation, music and art. Tickets from $155. Central Harbourfront Event Space. irishkg.com

UNTIL SEPT 30

you are now and where you want to be. Free (register at eventbrite.hk). 4-5pm, Hong Kong Meditation, Flat D, 6/F, 1 Glee Path, Mei Foo, Kowloon. Enquiries: meditationhongkong@ gmail.com

SILA Pop-up

Mid-levels resident Alexandra Marque introduces SILA (short for “Sorry I’m late again”), the unique, stylish women’s watch brand she co-founded here in Hong Kong. After a successful launch in Paris last year, Alex will be on hand at PMQ throughout September to offer customers a unique and tailored Parisian styling experience.

Kapok, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central. silaparis.com

SEPT 2 & 16

Teakha Tea Appreciation Workshop

SEPT 1-4

SEPT 1

Time to get shopping! Five homegrown brands will showcase a curated range of international and local fashion, lifestyle wares and resort apparel. The brands are Le French Cut, The Slow Mode, Bella Blu Design, Mary + Marie and Teresa’s Turkish Towels. The founders will be on hand to offer styling advice.10am-8pm Saturday, 11am-6pm Sunday, 9am-8pm Monday and Tuesday. 33 Wellington Street, Central. info@ bellabludesign

Shop ’til you drop at this lifestyle bazaar! Enjoy the lucky draw, freebies and wine tastings while you browse through high-quality stalls selling just about anything you can imagine. 11am-8pm.

Regal Kowloon Hotel, 71 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East. kowloonbazaar.com

Style Pop-up

GlamFest Kowloon Bazaar 2018

Learn all about the world of tea appreciation in this bilingual introductory two-hour class taught by the people behind Plantation by Teakha.

You will get to taste several types of teas and learn how to fully appreciate their beauty. $370.

11am-1pm. 18 Po Tuck Street, Sai Ying Pun. plantation.hk

SEPT 2

Finding How to Live Truly An introductory lecture about practising meditation to understand your mind, where

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planner

SEPT 8

Rosé Revolution Don your best fancy pink outfit and sip on the best rosé wines from around the globe at this eighth annual event, hosted by The Flying Winemaker. Expect exclusive cocktails and fabulous raffle prizes! Standard tickets are $360. 3-7pm. Red Sugar, Kerry Hotel, Kowloon City. flyingwinemaker.com.hk

SEPT 8-9

Lamma Bazaar

SEPT 4-9

“Beyond the Barricade” Enjoy the best songs in concert from the biggest West End and Broadway musicals of all time. Tickets start at $395. Various times.

Drama Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Wan Chai. hkticketing.com

SEPT 5

the science, art and beauty of bubbles.

Mesmerising and fun for your children and inner child. Tickets start at $395. Various times. Drama Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Wan Chai. hkticketing. com

SEPT 8-OCT 1

Hong Kong International Laugh Festival

The Blue Moment Join French photographer Romain JacquetLagrèze for an informal exchange as he shares his passion for capturing Hong Kong’s unique atmosphere at dusk, when the city is washed in deep shades of blue. Free. 7-8.30pm. AF library, 1/F, Alliance Française de Hong Kong, Jordan Centre. afhongkong.org

SEPT 5

Poetry OutLoud Open Mic Get an audience for your poetry – or listen to other people’s poetry – at this chilled-out gathering. Free. 7.45pm, Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Road, Central. facebook.com/ PoetryOutLoudHK/

SEPT 5-9

“The Amazing Bubbleman” Be spellbound – no, bubblebound – as Louis Pearl the Bubbleman demonstrates

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Browse a unique art market, taste homemade food, try face-painting and more!

10am-6pm. Lamma Art Collective, 1/F, 23 Main Street, Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island. lammaartcollective.com

Featuring stand-up and improv comedy by performers from around Asia, in English and Cantonese. Various times and ticket prices.

3/F, Comixbase, 7 Mallory Street, Wan Chai. laughfestival.hk

SEPT 8

“Centrestage” Fashion Expo Get your vogue on as the Trade Development Council hosts the third annual Centrestage fashion expo. Learn from a fashion editor about how to mix and match outfits and watch models parade down the halls. Free.

9.30am-5pm. Hall 3B-C & Grand Hall, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. centrestage. com.hk

SEPT 11-16

“Potted Potter” This Olivier Award-nominated Harry Potter parody attempts to condense all seven Harry Potter books into 70 minutes. For ages 6 to Dumbledore. $395. Various times. Drama Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Wan Chai. hkticketing.com

what’s on SEPT 15-16

SEPT

Ballet Classics for Children: Carnival of the Animals

Aerial Beach Yoga

Woof, meow, roar! Whether your little one is an animal-lover or a ballet fan, they’ll enjoy this interactive and delightful show featuring favourite ballet animals such as Swan Lake’s Little Swans and The Sleeping Beauty’s Puss in Boots. Tickets start at $200. Sept 15, 5pm; Sept 16, 12noon and 2.30pm. Studio Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, TST. Urbitix.com

Indulge in a beginners’ aerial yoga class at Yoga Bam Bam, then hike to beautiful Tai Long Wan beach in Sai Kung Country Park to fly in the bamboo tripods over the blue ocean! From $765. 8.45am-4.30pm, starting at Yoga BamBam, 10 Shin Hing Street, Central. bamboo-yoga.com

23-25

SEPT 16

Jimmy Carr Live British stand-up comedian Jimmy Carr is set to return to Hong Kong with brand-new jokes and hilarious material. Tickets start at $488. 6pm.

Rotunda 3, Kowloon Bay International Trade & Exhibition Centre, Kowloon. hkticketing.com

SEPT 18

Dan and Phil Interactive Introverts World Tour British YouTube sensations Dan and Phil take to the stage for a night of participatory fun!

Laughs, cringes and surprises guaranteed.

Prices start at $200. 8-10pm, MacPherson Stadium, 38 Nelson Street, Mong Kok. danandphiltour.com

SEPT 21

Unknown Mortal Orchestra

SEPT 22

Fans of Tame Impala, Toro y Moi and George Harrison will love Unknown Mortal Orchestra, a group of Kiwi psychedelic rockers playing spacey tunes with hints of soul and pop. $390.

This Town Needs, 1/F, Ocean One, 6 Shung Shun Street, Yau Tong, Kowloon. ticketflap.com/umo

Boost your confidence with this Forrest Yoga workshop, which is designed to help you celebrate what you are already capable of! $600. 3-5.30pm, The Yoga Room, 4/F, 104 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan. yogaroomhk.com

Forrest Yoga Workshop

SEPT 22

Jessie J The R.O.S.E. Tour World-famous singer-songwriter Jessie J is coming to Hong Kong to roll out her hotlyanticipated fourth album, R.O.S.E. Tickets start at $698. 8pm, Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo. asiaworld-expo.com

SEPT 19

SEPT 23-25

Get ready to rock and roll! The Killers are back in town with their latest hits and timeless classics. $888. 8pm. Arena, AsiaWorld-Expo. lushington.com

Marvel at the majestic 64-metre fire dragon dancing its way along the backstreets of Tai Hang. The best vantage point is Wun Sha Street.

Starting at 8.15pm. On Sept 24 at 10.45pm there will also be a special performance in Victoria Park. taihangfiredragon.hk

The Killers HK Tour

SEPT 21-22

Food’s Future Summit 2018 What does the future hold for our food?

This topic will be explored through keynote speeches and panel discussions from key industry insiders as well as interactive workshops and talks. Tickets from $80, children under 12 free. 9.30am-7pm, Hotel ICON, 17 Science Museum Road, Kowloon. foods-future.com

Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance

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planner Mid-Autumn Festival Be captivated by the gorgeous full moon! Try traditional or icecream mooncakes, then head to Victoria Park or the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade to admire the displays of bright lanterns.

SEPT 24

Mid-Autumn Urban Carnival Lantern displays, a Fire Dragon Dance, kung fu demonstrations, acrobatics, folk songs and crafts. 8-11pm. Victoria Park, Causeway Bay.

SEPT 25-30

SEPT 29-30

Twelfth Night, The Merchant of Venice and The Taming of the Shrew are coming to Hong Kong! Don’t miss out on the Bard’s very best.

Tickets start at $395. Various times. The Hong Kong Jockey Club Amphitheatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Wan Chai. hkticketing.com

Race for a good cause! Join the longest-running 24-hour endurance aquathon in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia. Have fun with the free trials of watersports activities, and try out their race village.

Free entry, $3,000 to compete. hhyc.org.hk

Shakespeare’s Globe

SEPT 26

Ladies’ Beauty Night Enjoy a ladies’ night and learn makeup techniques from professional make-up artist and co-founder of Lamma Art Collective Cherie Chung. Wine will be provided, but bring your own cosmetics. 8pm. Lamma Art Collective, 1/F, 23 Main Street, Yung Shue Wan, Lamma. islandartonlamma@gmail.com

SEPT 27-30 “Hubbub!”

Shakespeare4All presents its Hubbub! show, an interactive experience especially for children aged six months to three years.

Tickets from $260. Various times (daytime only). Artistree, 1/F, Cambridge House, Taikoo Place, Quarry Bay. s4a.org.hk/en

SEPT 29

LED-decorated Boats Parade at Aberdeen Promenade To celebrate the 69th Anniversary of the Founding of the People’s Republic of China, the Southern District is holding a parade of LED-decorated sampans. 7.45-8.45pm (on-site registration for a free ride).

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Hebe Haven 24-Hour Charity Dinghy Race

SEPT 30

Connecting our Community in Hong Kong Dr. Briony Scott, principal of Wenona Girls School

in Sydney, will visit Hong Kong to give a talk about about raising strong girls. 10am-2pm.

Free - register online by September 14. Frites, The Wellington, 1/F 198 Wellington Street, Central. rsvp.wenona.nsw.edu.au

GIVEAWAYS

win at hongkongliving.com

“Hubbub!” Tickets Up for grabs: 1 pair of tickets (1 adult & 1 child) for Theatre for the Very Young Hubbub!

From: Shakespeare4All, a registered charity founded in 2003 with the purpose of building fluency and confidence in English through performing Shakespearean plays, and inspiring young people to aspire to be excellent. The tickets are for the 3.15pm show on September 27.

Shakespeare4All will also hold their annual Gala on October 6-7. s4a.org.hk

Dulce De Leche Mooncakes

SHAKESPEARE4ALL PRESENTS 香港小莎翁呈獻

FROM IMPACT TO INNOVATION : THE i2i THEATRE PROJECT 爾 瞳 劇 場

!

Hubbub THEATRE FOR THE VERY YOUNG

幼兒劇場

導 演 // 夏 頌 寧 DIRECTED BY // SHIONA CARSON

27-28.9.2018 ( Thu 四 - Fri 五 )

10:00am / 11:30am / 1:45pm / 3:15pm

Up for grabs: A box of Dulce De Leche Mooncakes for two lucky winners From: Gaucho, Hong Kong’s premier Argentinian steakhouse, celebrates the Mid-Autumn Festival by taking one of its most popular desserts, the Dulce de Leche cheesecake, and adding a mooncake twist.

29-30.9.2018 ( Sat 六 - Sun 日 )

10:00am / 11:30am / 1:45pm / 3:15pm / 4:45pm

ArtisTree

1/F Cambridge House, Taikoo Place, Quarry Bay 鰂魚涌太古坊康橋大廈1樓

$260 / $230 * ＊

Discounted tickets for under 11s, full-time students, senior citizens aged 60 or above, people with disabilities and

the minder.

＊

優 惠 適 用 於 11 歲 或 以 下 小 童 及 幼 兒 ︐ 全 日 制 學 生 ︐ 60 歲 或 以 上 人 士 ︐ 殘 疾 人 士 及 看 護 人 ︒

Tickets at http://juven.co/s4a-hubbub2018 PRODUCED BY 製 作

Shakespeare4All is financially supported by the Springboard Grant under the Arts Capacity Development Funding Scheme of the Government of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region

SPONSOR 贊 助

香港小莎翁獲香港特別行政區政府「藝能發展資助計劃」 的躍進資助

The content of this programme does not reflect the views of the Government of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region 節 目 內 容 並 不 反 映 香 港 特 別 行 政 區 政 府 的 意 見

Skin Care Formula Gift Set Worth $2,156 Up for grabs: A skin care gift set, including HA+B5 water-based Masks, Travel Size Squalane’s, Rise & Set moisturisers and sunblock.

From: The Skin Need Natural Condition System is a reputable line of professional formulas known for its excellence in quality, with distribution centres worldwide offering Skin Need services in clinics, spas and beauty centres. skinneed.com

Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: hongkongliving.com

BOOK NOW OCT 6-7

Sideways 24-Hour Charity Race with HandsOn Hong Kong Join the ultimate endurance challenge as 15 teams of drivers will race throughout the night to raise funds for HandsOn Hong Kong’s community programmes. If you fancy taking part, sign up now. Sideways Driving Club, 1/F, 65-65A Peel Street, Central. centralsideways-driving-club.com

OCT 6-14

NOV 9-11

More than 50 of the world’s top female players will battle it out in singles and doubles matches for prizes worth US$500,000. Free from Oct 6 to 8, $160-$880 from Oct 9 to 14. Buy online or at Tom Lee Music outlets. Victoria Park Tennis Stadium, Causeway Bay. hktennisopen.hk

Grab your tickets to Hong Kong’s biggest music and arts festival in November. The threeday festival will feature big names, including The Vaccines and Peking Duk. Tickets from $820. Central Harbourfront Event Space. clockenflap.com

Hong Kong Tennis Open

Clockenflap

Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com hongkongliving.com | 11

must have this month

“Always tailor the menu, decor, flowers and drinks to the season. Fresh, crisp and bright tones in the hot weather; comforting and muted tones in the cold weather.”

Nambe Scoop Ice Bucket $1,520 from Town House Shop 210-211, Landmark Prince’s, 10 Chater Road, Central townhouse.com.hk

Custom flowers $1,000 from Bydeau bydeau.com

BE OUR GUEST Interior designer and stylist Aviva Duncan gives her advice on preparing for dinner parties

“I always serve food on white china, but I have summer, autumn and winter sets of linen napkins and tablecloths, each with their own colour tone to reflect the season.”

Coasters with gold trim Price on request from The Pink Lotus facebook.com/ thepinklotus

Porcelain Bowls $150 from kikki.K Shop 220, 2/F Prince’s Building, Central kikki-k.com

12 | hongkongliving.com

Living Salt and Pepper Mill $939 from BoConcept 73 Wyndham Street, Central boconcept.com

Ma chère Mademoiselle

“Theme your table according to the dishes you’re serving.

If it’s Italian, have bottles of Campari and pots of basil on your table, and if it’s Spanish have fans for the ladies and mason jars of sangria at every setting.”

Seedlip Non-alcoholic Spirits $328 from stores including Oliver’s The Delicatessen and Kapok seedlipdrinks.com

“Have lighting low and coming from different sources.

I like to light the table and have the surroundings less bright.”

Moon Lamp $1,696 from Everything Under The Sun 902 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau everythingunderthesun.com.hk

Valarie Marble Dining Table $29,990 from Indigo Living 221-224 Landmark Prince’s, 10 Chater Road, Central indigo-living.com

Metallic Porcelain $590 from Bowerbird Home 8/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau bowerbird-home.com

“Always have a focal point on your table – a huge bunch of flowers, a collection of herbs in pots, different glass vases, etc. Keep this high and arrange a buffet around it.”

Spaghetti Garden Nature Chair $2,790 from Tequila Kola 1/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau tequilakola.com

hongkongliving.com | 13

news

Clockenflap’s eclectic lineup

Talking Heads frontman David Bryne, New York indie group Interpol and R&B sensation Khalid will be among the eclectic array of artists to grace Clockenflap, which celebrates its 10th year this year. The organiser of Asia’s biggest music and arts festivals recently unveiled the line-up, which promises to be “one of the most diverse and cutting-edge” Hong Kong has ever seen. The three-day event will be held from November 9 to 11 at the Central Harbourfront Event Space. clockenflap.com

Adieu to beloved cartoonist Renowned Hong Kong cartoonist and satirist Yim Yee-king, much loved for his ink brushwork pieces and political satire, passed away recently at the age of 85. Better known by his pen name, “Ah-Chung”, the self-taught artist was born in Guangzhou. He dropped out of school as a teenager and became a paperboy, delivering newspapers from 5am to 11am. He later landed a job as a designer

Fake ads alert!

for a local newspaper and eventually built a career as a caricaturist. Until 2008, Yim had a second-floor studio on Cochrane Street, Central. Some Mid-levels residents may still remember catching a glimpse of his paintings displayed by the studio window as they travelled on the Mid-levels escalator. Yim died of a heart attack on August 11, three days after his birthday.

Flat-hunters beware. Only less than 10 percent of secondary home listings are genuine, according to Shih Wing-ching, chairman of the Centaline Property Agency. Why fake?

It’s a trick to attract customers. Shih recently revealed that only 10,000 secondary home listings out of 160,000 properties in the secondary market could be genuine, meaning only six percent are real. The fake listings are usually offered at a significant discount or presented as units with great views or fancy decor. But when a flat-hunter shows interest, the unscrupulous agent will claim the property has just been sold, and will talk the potential buyer into considering other options.

The Hong Kong’s Estate Agents Authority has been trying to crack down on the malpractice, but alas, it seems there’s still a long way to go.

Portrait by David Kan

14 hongkongliving.com |

news

Schools fair for expats

A school fair offering comprehensive information on international schools in Hong Kong will be held at The Annex, Central (73 Des Voeux Road Central) on 20 October (Saturday). The International Schools Fair, hosted

by Expat Parent magazine, will offer parents a one-stop-shop for all school info. It will feature a number of Hong Kong international schools, and there’ll be advice from educational professionals, free workshops and entertainment for the kids. For more info, email editorial@hongkongliving.com

Hong Kong up 10 spots in liveability If you’re about to complain that prices in Hong Kong keep rising and that politicians are not noble, take consolation from the latest study by the Economist Intelligence Unit, which raised Hong Kong’s ranking by 10 positions to 35th in the list of the world’s most liveable cities. Perhaps the even better news is that Hong Kong has regained its lead over Singapore, which beat us for the first time year but dropped two spots to 37th in 2018

from 35th in 2017. Apparently, Hong Kong’s rebound is thanks in part to improvements in political stability and its better performance in cultural and environmental matters when compared with Singapore. The world’s most liveable city is Vienna, followed by Melbourne, Osaka, Calgary, Sydney, Vancouver, Toronto, Tokyo, Copenhagen and Adelaide.

FCC in the limelight The Foreign Correspondents’ Club (FCC) and the streets surrounding it were filled with pro-Government protesters and a heavy police presence at noon on August 14, when pro-independence activist Andy Chan Ho-tin delivered a controversial speech at the press club. The talk, titled “Hong Kong Nationalism: A Politically Incorrect Guide to Hong Kong under Chinese Rule”, had been criticised by Beijing for providing a platform for Chan, the convenor of the Hong Kong National Party, to promote independence. Days before the talk, former Hong Kong chief executive Leung Chun-ying compared the event to giving terrorists a platform. The FCC, however,

stressed that its decision to invite speakers “is never a signal that we endorse or oppose their ideas”. M

hongkongliving.com | 15

local

The disappearing street hawkers Gabrielle Tse delves into the unsavoury side of the street-food industry

Dr. Joseph Kwan, director of the Health, Safety and Environment Office of the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, says: “Street food can be quite unhygienic, given that every minute step from storage to hawking is precarious.”

He recommends that the Government give hawkers proper training on food hygiene to bump up safety standards. “Great snacks should not be lost over solvable health concerns.”

Pressure cooking In line with modernisation, the Government now pushes food trucks as an alternative to hawkers. But their golden child has been struggling: high prices, awkward locations, ridiculous rules against movement and decidedly un-local food options (e.g., hot dogs) leave locals with a bad taste in the mouth. Ham-fisted attempts at marketing to tourists haven’t succeeded either, as travellers prefer the real deal.

An elderly street hawker sells fruit on Cochrane Street next to the Mid-levels escalator

B

rave Hong Kong’s older alleyways and you’ll be sure to catch tantalising whiffs of curry fishballs, bean cake and more. However, these familiar roadside scents may soon be “gone with the wind”.

to fewer than 6,000 in recent years. Another roadblock has been the shift in social values.

With increasing gentrification and the advent of affordable, sanitary chain stores, locals’ taste buds (and wallets) are being tempted away from the streets.

Humble beginnings

To meal or not to meal

Street hawkers have been setting up their carts in Hong Kong since the 1940s. For uneducated migrants with families to feed, hawking was a low-cost but sure-fire way of earning a living.

Local streets supported food hawkers, clothes peddlers and even storytellers, creating a lively ambience.

Despite everything, street-food hawking remains an inextricable part of Hong Kong’s collective memory. Tony So, creator of Kalok Toys, has created a set of food-hawker Lego pieces steeped in nostalgia. “When I was a child,” So explains, “there were food hawkers everywhere. The fond memories of old times inspired me.”

Rockier roads Times have changed, though, and pushcarts no longer reign over the streets. To reduce hygiene hazards and nuisance, the Government began to crack down on hawkers in the 70s by banning new licences and restricting the transfer of existing ones. In 2002, the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department implemented a scheme that encouraged hawkers to give up their licences in exchange for a lump sum. The number of licensed hawkers has dropped from 70,000 in the 40s

16 | hongkongliving.com

The bristling tension surrounding the issue escalated into a scuffle during Chinese New Year 2016, when clashes broke out over the Government’s hardline crackdown on unlicensed hawkers. Nicknamed “The Fishball Revolution” after the beloved snack-on-astick, the disquiet provoked plenty of debate amidst the festivities.

Previous Secretary for Food and Health Dr. Ko Wing-Man stated that the Government aimed to “strike a proper balance between allowing legal hawking activities… and maintaining environmental hygiene, ensuring public safety and protecting the public from nuisances.”

But unless the Government adopts more flexible solutions, it will be difficult to find an acceptable compromise. M

To others, however, hawking is a road hog that “gives rise to environmental hygiene problems, noise nuisance, and obstruction of public passageways,” according to a governmental review.

These food-hawker Lego pieces are steeped in nostalgia

five minutes with

Arthur de Villepin

The gallery owner talks to Shirley Lau about his French roots and his love of Hong Kong

Arthur de Villepin wants to democratise art with Carré d’artistes, a new French gallery he brought to Hong Kong

I’m a dreamer. That’s in my genes, and maybe also because I lived abroad when I was younger. I am a Frenchman born in the US. At three, I followed my family to India. At seven, we moved back to France. Maybe partly because of all this moving about, I don’t like conforming.

I’ve always felt I don’t belong to the mainstream French system. At school I daydreamed a lot – it was hard not to when you’d lived in New Delhi and saw elephants walking on the streets every day. I like enriching myself through differences, not similarities.

I feel comfortable with people from different backgrounds. In 2010, I moved to Hong Kong and have been calling it home ever since.

I prefer the underdog. In a football game, when a team I support starts to score too much, I would switch side and support the other team.

Sometimes life is about self-reconciliation.

When I was 17, my father became the prime minister of France. I used to feel a bit annoyed when people judged me because of that. But

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I have managed to find a balance between feeling good about my family background and not thinking that it’s the only way to define me as a person.

Recently I brought the French art gallery Carré d’artistes to Hong Kong. My mission is to democratise art. We represent hundreds of contemporary artists from around the world.

Each artwork is sold at a fixed, affordable price according to size and format, not the fame of the artist.

I want to change the usual approach to art in Hong Kong, where buying art is often about the perceived investment value of an artwork more than anything. For me, what matters most is the feelings art elicits in us. My vision of Carré d’artistes has grown organically from YellowKorner, a photography gallery I opened in 2013. The two shops sit opposite each other on Hollywood Road.

Art de Vivre is the lifestyle group I created.

Under it there are the two said galleries, the French wine label Pont des Arts and a

consulting firm I run with my father. The toughest time came last year when I had to come to terms with the fact that I had made the mistake of creating several startups for the group right from the start. It was hard to juggle with so many brands. I had to close the F&B, design and events businesses.

To accept that you have failed in something is difficult. It is not about what other people think of you, but what you think of yourself. You start questioning yourself and having self-doubts, and yet running an ongoing business you can’t afford spending too much time doubting yourself.

But being able to survive from all this and find the resources and solutions has made me five times stronger. I’ve got more humble and more mature in the way I look at my business and life in general.

Whatever you do, ask yourself why you do it.

If you do not have an answer to this question, then when the going gets tough, you may not be able to survive the depression. However, if you do, you have identified a path through which you can grow - and perhaps serve a bigger purpose.

five minutes with The short-sighted entrepreneur is driven only by money and pragmatism. The good one makes money and also envisions what the world will be like tomorrow and tries to offer what he thinks will help make the world a better place. I’m not saying this to sound nice. I believe in adding value to the world.

In Asia, I’m seeing an identity revolution, whereby the younger generation no longer follows the masses unquestioningly. They are reflecting on who they are, and their roots and culture. Amid this trend, I’m trying to nourish a culture of buying things not just because we need them but also because of the associated feelings and personal experiences.

Being French is something I also feel proud of. Apart from French cuisine, I love this human touch with which we look at life, think about it and live it. Sometimes people say French people don’t move on and don’t go fast enough. That’s true, but the other side of the coin is that the French have a capacity to take a step back to look at things, to be critical and to provoke.

Sometimes I find it easier to find things that nourish your soul in France. It feels great to return home from a dinner where you just had the most interesting conversations. In Hong Kong, things are more straightforward and pragmatic. It’ll always be interesting for me. I think it’d be great if the French and Hong Kong cultures could be mixed.

Carré d’artistes is at 53-55 Hollywood Road.

3709 0909 M

I’m proud to say I’m from Hong Kong. When I’m away from it, I miss its food and dynamic most. Last year when I returned from a trip, the Hong Kong airport staff asked if I had a visa.

I said: “What do you mean? I’m a permanent resident!”

I love the areas in and around Mid-levels, such as the Man Mo Temple and Sheung Wan. It’s a neighbourhood with a soul, a human touch that makes you feel as if time had stopped.

Arthur de Villepin with Graffmatt from France, one of the artists represented by Carré d’artistes

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dining

Tried and tested

A

little more than three months since the opening of Tai Kwun, more than half of the restaurants and bars in the former Central Police Station compound have swung open their doors, with the latest being a hip bar that had a soft launch just a few weeks ago. Our foodie team decided it was time to test all the F&B establishments at Tai Kwun. Here’s our verdict, giving kudos to what we love and proffering suggestions for improvements.

Illustration by Little Jade, Instagram: little_jadecyn

Our verdict on Tai Kwun’s F&B options

setting. We couldn’t get enough of the Mala Ibérico Pork Xiaolongbao (soup-filled pork dumplings) ($138) and the in-house fermented condiments.

Creati Chinesve e

Room for improvement: If we are to be really fastidious, the background music is a little on the loud side and not quite consistent – sometimes it’s rock, sometimes it’s easy-listening.

2/F JC Contemporary, 2877 8711, open 12noon3pm, 6-11pm, closed Sundays

1. Old Bailey A second-floor restaurant offering Chinese fine dining in a stylish setting with open views. On offer is an authentic selection of dishes from the Jiangnan region of China with creative twists. The menu is mostly preservative- and additive-free, with ingredients such as organic vegetables.

What we love: Too much to list here! The food is tip-top and prices are, surprisingly, quite reasonable, given the location and the fine

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Old Bailey offers both style and substance

Must try - spicy xiaolongbao

dining 6

3. MaoMao Eat

Behind Bars

1

Popular local diner Tsui Wah’s fresh take on Hong Kong classics, offering a range of local delights such as Milk Tea and Crispy Buns with Sweet Condensed Milk. Food is ordered at the till. MaoMao Eat has joined forces with social enterprise Green Monday to provide plantbased alternatives to meat and cheese, for diners striving to be more health-conscious.

Old Bailey

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What we love: Love might be too strong a word, but this is a good place to stop off for a quick, yummy bite or refreshment at very affordable prices.

Dragonfly

3

Room for improvement: MaoMao Eat has been open for a while but it doesn’t look like it – a rubbish bin and general debris in one corner draw attention as soon you step into the space.

Shop 03-G08, Barrack Block, open 11am-8pm, 2601 9818

MaoMao Eat

LockCha Tea House

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4

Madame Fu

Café Claudel

Illustration by Tai Kwun

2

Quic for kk fix ids!

e Winn e & di Quallity fast food, Tai Kwun-style

Space and style are in abundant supply at Madame Fu

2. Madame Fu Probably the most talked-about restaurant these days when it comes to dining at Tai Kwun, Madame Fu offers Cantonesefocused contemporary Chinese cuisine in an exceptionally spacious, East-meets-West interior inspired by European grand cafés and the Hong Kong colonial style.

What we love: No doubt the interior, especially the high ceiling and the beautiful architectural features of the colonial building.

Diners can float from one room to another, each with its own unique atmosphere – enjoy a pre-meal drink at the Grand Cafe, dim sum lunch at the cosy and romantic Pink Room and dessert on the Veranda.

Room for improvement: The overall food quality is reasonable, but we reckon they’d better come up with some more wow factors soon to keep local diners coming back.

3/F Barrack Block, open 11am-midnight, 2114 2118

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dining n

ia Parisic ch

Coming soon...

Café Claudel exudes the charm of Parisian cafés

4. Café Claudel As if it had been plucked from the cobbled streets of Paris and placed right on our doorstep, Café Claudel is a chilled-out spot for traditional French food in a convincing 1930s Parisian setting. It is also kind of a social hub at Tai Kwun, a well-located spot that visitors won’t miss out on. Chef Kevin Li of the French bistro Pastis on Wyndham Street delivers classics such as Croque Monsieur, as well as Eastern-influenced delights such as Mini Peking Duck Burger. A brunch menu is available from 10.30am to 4pm on weekends.

5. LockCha Tea House An elegant, peaceful teahouse where you can have made-to-order vegetarian dim sum and fine Chinese tea in a relaxing atmosphere.

LockCha is the brainchild of Ip Wing-chi, a tea connoisseur and the founding chairman of the Hong Kong Tea Association. The well-loved LockCha Tea House in Hong Kong Park is the first teahouse that Ip opened.

What we love: The only thing that beats relaxing with your coffee and savouring the scrumptious food is doing it on the outdoor terrace, where you could easily sit all day and watch the world go by. Just don’t be taken aback when your outdoor refreshments are served in disposable cups – the terrace is actually a public area but you can still enjoy Café Claudel’s food there.

Room for improvement: We’ll tell you if we ever think of anything!

Shop 01-G08, open 11am-11pm, 2411 1310

gie Veg

What we love: The fact that this places serves veggie dim sum – still thin on the ground in Hong Kong – deserves kudos. Besides, they are delicious and go very well with the fine tea.

We also admire the hanging lamps made of bird cages, and, of course, the adjacent tea shop, where you can find a big collection of premium tea leaves and teapots.

Room for improvement: It’s not so much about improvement as an evolution. LockCha serves dinner, but at the time this article went to print, the restaurant did not have a liquor licence. If you fancy wining and dining here, just be patient.

Shop 01, G06-7, open 11am-11pm, 2276 5777

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Tai Kwun will continue to get more exciting, as several more F&B establishments are set to open this month. Under the helm of renowned chef David Thompson, Aaharn, on the first floor of the Armoury building, will serve fine Thai cuisine. The restaurant has a bar called Bar at Armoury on the ground floor, serving wines by the glass, cocktails, draught beers and even premium teas and coffees and a simple menu of modern Thai bar snacks.

Then there’s hc:Bistro, which will be bringing light gourmet dishes as well as a community spirit to diners. The local bistro is the 13th catering social enterprise project of the non-profit Hong Chi Association, which provides training and a safe working environment for people with intellectual disabilities.

In the main police headquarters block will be three new F&B establishments by Aqua Restaurant Group. In the East wing is The Chinese Library, which will offer up Chinese delights, and in the West wing is Statement, which will serve innovative British cuisine that reflects Hong Kong’s colonial heritage. The third venue coming soon is Dispensary, a lounge redolent of Hong Kong’s colourful past.

6. Behind Bars

Hipste r fave s’

When a cluster of former jail cells are transformed into a hip, neon-streaked joint for a casual rendezvous in the late afternoon and after-dinner cocktails late at night, you get the aptly named Behind Bars.

What we love: Apart from the irresistible Instagram-worthy decor (they insisted we couldn’t publish any photos though), it’s also a bar that takes its coffee seriously. We dig the Australian-style coffee, which goes well with the stylish playlist.

Veggie dim sum, a rarity in Hong Kong

Room for improvement: If you prefer your cocktails mixed in front of your eyes, this probably isn’t the place for you. Pre-made concoctions in glass bottles just don’t make the cut for freshness and zing.

Shop 15, E Hall, G/F, open 4pm-midnight (Tue to Thu), 3pm-2am (Fri), 2pm-2am (Sat) and 2pm-midnight (Sun), ask@behindbars.hk

dining

hongkongliving.com | 23

dining 7. Dragonfly

Fine r il ba cockta

Even the most philistine of visitors would appreciate the exquisite design of this boutique cocktail lounge. Award-winning designer Ashley Sutton applied his fantastical flair to Dragonfly to create an interior reminiscent of the Art Nouveau era. A diversity of cocktail creations, as well as tapas and desserts, are served to the accompaniment of soft-mood lounge music. There’s a DJ booth and live music programmes are in the pipeline.

The bar had its soft opening in mid-August. We reckon it will be a crowd-pleaser.

What we love: From the interior to the menu cover, everything is a feast for the eyes. The 500 cast-iron dragonflies dangling overhead create a stunning centrepiece. We also couldn’t keep our eyes off the turquoise glass lamps inspired by Art Nouveau pioneer Louis Tiffany.

Room for improvement: Dragonfly certainly meets expectations from the get-go, but we’ve only had a tantalising glimpse of what it has to offer. We’ll have to wait until their grand opening on 12 September to find out more...

Shop 10-G1, open 5pm-late, 2777 2633

Dragonfly, Tai Kwun at its most fantastical

NIBBLES

News from the dining scene

Happy 20th anniversary to Olé

Te Quiero Mucho

To mark its 20th birthday, Spanish favourite Olé has launched a nine-course Saturday brunch menu. The menu features 20 all-time favourites, including the signature suckling pig, traditional paella and Catalan Cream, made from founder Carmelo Lopez’s own grandmother’s recipe. Other treats include a Mariachi band. $380 (add $150 for two hours of free-flow). Saturdays and public holidays, 12noon-3pm. Olé, 1/F, Shun Ho Tower, 24-30 Ice House Street, Central. olespanishrestaurant.com.hk

Mojo Nomad Central’s highly anticipated Mexican restaurant, Te Quiero Mucho, will throw open its doors to a crowd of hungry Mexican-loving diners on Queen’s Road Central early this month.

The much-anticipated two-storey eatery will be helmed by Guadalajara native, Chef Jose Alfonso Rodriguez, who has created a menu featuring Mexican classics, designed to be shared familystyle. Zingy cocktails fit for Mexican sunsets can be enjoyed alongside a meal or at TQM’s lively upstairs bar. TQM will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 286 Queen’s Road Central, Central. mojonomad.com/central

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Pizza Express launches vegan pizza Pizza can be healthy and yummy at the same time.

Recently opened Pizza Express at Lee Tung Avenue will offer the restaurant chain’s first eggless pizza and spaghetti. The dishes are made with JUST Egg, a plant-based egg substitute that is high in protein and free of cholesterol. To celebrate, Pizza Express has launched two new vegan dishes, which are also perfect for those with egg allergies and can be customised to suit meat-lovers. 200 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai. pizzaexpress.com.hk

hongkongliving.com | 25

cover story

Ready, set, go!

Keen runner Rachel Blundy talks to fellow runners about the top five running trails in Mid-levels

Barker Road to the Peak Highlights: A great way to enjoy a view of the skyline whilst escaping the hustle and bustle.

Distance: 5km Recommended by: Jack Wyse, 26, IT analyst for John Lewis Hong Kong. Living and running in Hong Kong for one year, originally from London.

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running

Jack Wyse loves the well-managed and clean running trails in Hong Kong

What do you like about this trail?

“There’s very little traffic, which means the air is cleaner than Old Peak Road.

The slight incline makes it a good workout session. The best part is the views, which in my opinion are actually better than up at The Peak Lookout, and there’s hardly anyone to be seen!”

What made you take up trail running in Hong Kong?

“Trails are great here because it takes no time to get to some amazing routes from the city centre. They’re also really well managed and kept very clean by the Government.”

Give us three tips for beginner trail runners.

“Firstly, don’t feel like you need to buy all the kit. A good pair of trainers and a bottle of water is all you need. Secondly, go easy at first because the humidity can be stifling; evening runs are more comfortable. Finally, join a running group that matches your ability; it’s a great way to meet people and stay motivated.”

Which trail abroad would you like to attempt, and why?

“A good friend of mine recently completed a marathon in northern Norway during the summer, so you run through the night

in total sunlight. It sounds surreal and unforgettable!”

Trails are great here because it takes no time to get to some amazing routes from the city centre. They’re also really well managed.

Music choice for the hills?

“Recently I’ve been listening to 60s blues and soul.”

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cover story

The Tai Hang-Bowen Road loop is Joe Ho’s favourite running trail

Tai Hang/ Black’s Link/ Bowen Road loop Highlights: It gets quieter as you climb higher and the air becomes fresher.

Distance: 7km Recommended by: Joe Ho, 26, business development and marketing manager at Adventure Sports Academy, who returned to Hong Kong in 2015 after living in London for 14 years.

Why this trail?

“It is a little steep to start with but I love hills, stairs or any sort of elevation. I think it relates back to our lives; we need to work hard to reach the top for anything we want to achieve.”

What do you like about trail running in Hong Kong?

“I like the quietness; it allows me to focus all my energy on what is in front of me. It’s also a good opportunity to enjoy the scenery that we have in Hong Kong.”

Is Hong Kong a great city for beginner runners?

“Yes. It’s full of routes that allow us to explore the city! Not only can we enjoy a great run with friends and family, but we can explore the unseen every day. We can run carefree; find

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our inner passion and move towards an active lifestyle!”

As a trainer, what advice would you give to aspiring trail runners?

“Runners must ensure they are physically and mentally prepared. Don’t run if you’re unwell.

If the trail is long, take a good amount of water and snacks, like a protein bar, as well as a wind jacket or blanket in case of rain or windy conditions.”

Any favourite music for your runs?

“It depends on the run, but I listen to oldschool R’n’B, Hong Kong pop, hip hop, reggae, bashment and Afrobeats.”

Essential item apart from water?

“Tissues! They are useful for many things, especially first aid.”

Concrete trails vs.

Dirt trails Trail-running purists suggest dirt trails are the only paths on which you can truly enjoy the sport, but beginners in Hong Kong may find that some of the city’s flat, concrete trails are easier for building up speed and stamina. The city’s running paths, particularly in Mid-levels, are generally well signposted and free of obstacles.

If you’re relatively new to running, you may find that you occasionally experience pain in your knees, particularly if you regularly run on hard surfaces. Running experts advise that to counter this, you should vary the surfaces you run on, and take adequate rest between workouts in order to avoid serious injury.

Once you’re comfortable running 10km stretches on generally flat surfaces, you may want to try a more technical dirt path, such as part of the Lantau Trail. But take it easy on the hills and run with a friend if you’re anxious about finishing!

running Hong Kong Sport Centre to Victoria Peak via Old Peak Road Highlights: It’s easily accessible and is generally a gentle physical challenge.

Distance: 7km Recommended by: Tasha Cheong, a nutritionist and Pilates instructor from Macau, who has lived on Hong Kong Island for six years.

What do you like about this particular trail?

“It’s a good cardio workout because of the uphill parts. You can turn it into a 15km midweek run if you do three laps around the Peak. It’s a nice break for mind and body after an intensive day!”

What are your favourite things about trail running?

“Trail running is full of variety; there’s a whole range of terrains and climates. On the trails, you can explore nature; you might be less focused on speed and instead concentrate on your surroundings. I think the longer you spend on the trails, the calmer you will become.”

Where in the world is your favourite trail run and why?

“At the moment, mainland China is quite an interesting destination for trail running, for example in Sichuan or Yunan. It can range from sea level to high altitude, and there are often many historic and cultural attractions. Runners are generally very friendly and helpful. Trail running in China is developing, and as a result you can expect there’ll be increasingly more surprising adventures!”

The longer you spend on the trails, the calmer you will become.

Tasha Cheong in the right attire for her cardio workout

What’s the most challenging trail run you’ve done in Hong Kong?

“A race called Country of Origin, in which runners dress up in the style of their home countries. I ran it as part of a team of three in 2017. One section of the route is Tiger’s Head in Lantau, which is challenging. It was muddy and there was a thunderstorm so the descent was a bit tricky. I could barely move my feet, especially as I was dressed in a Chinese long dress (qipao)!”

Bowen Road (from Magazine Gap Road to the Stubbs Road / Wong Nai Chung Gap intersection)

Highlights: It’s close to home and largely flat.

Distance: 4km (one way) Recommended by: Mid-levels resident Kana Okubo, 37, a chief flight attendant for Cathay Pacific from Japan, who has been living and running in Hong Kong for 16 years.

Why this trail?

“It’s convenient; I can run it with a friend or my partner from my apartment in Mid-levels.

It’s relatively easy.”

Is Hong Kong great for trail running?

“It’s a big city but there’s a great contrast with nature here. It’s also quite simple to access running trails.”

Any favourite time to run?

“In the evening; there is a lot of shade and fewer people. Plus it’s a fantastic time for getting a good night view of the city!”

Any advice for beginners?

“Apply sunblock any time of day. Wear foot glove socks to avoid bruising your toes.”

What do you think about when you run?

“I just simply enjoy the view and I like to clear

Bowen Road, a popular Mid-levels running trail

my mind to review what I have done that day, before planning ahead for the coming few days. I also look at the development of construction between Central and Happy Valley, although I hate the noise. Each time I run, it’s a different skyline, so I get to see how Hong Kong island develops and changes.”

Your top running track?

“Future For You” by Japanese female singer Anri. It’s an old song but it really cheers me up and lifts me up!

hongkongliving.com | 29

cover story

Runner Pauline Revet in action

because I feel ashamed! I was doing a 14k race and I was in the lead. But I took the wrong turn and had to do 23k instead in order to be able to finish it! it was a difficult but funny experience because I had to challenge myself a lot and push my limit!”

The rewarding view from the Morning Trail

The University of Hong Kong to The Peak via the Morning Trail Highlights: A great way to start the day, with breaks in the greenery that show great views.

Distance: 5km Recommended by: Pauline Revet, 35, a jewellery designer from France, who moved to Hong Kong four-and-a-half years ago and has been trail running since the age of 12.

What do you like about this trail?

“The variations of the trail for my training.

I first have to climb many stairs from Sai Ying Pun to the starting point of the trail.

Afterwards, it’s around 15 minutes of tough running as the path gets really sloping. When I get to the top, I run for around 20 to 30 minutes around The Peak on the flat surface before going down. I also love to have some refreshments at the Peak Outlook restaurant.”

What are the best things about trail running in Hong Kong?

“The nature. From the city, you can be in nature in a few minutes. Also it’s amazing to

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run on the waterfront in the morning with the sunrise.”

What are the hardest things about being a beginner trail runner here?

“I am not a beginner, but the humidity was the most difficult part for me when I arrived in Hong Kong. It was difficult to breathe.”

Which trail do you find most challenging here and why?

“The most difficult is the Twin Peaks because of the unending stairs. The trail is not so long. It takes less than two hours, but it is extremely steep.”

Have you ever been in a tricky situation on a trail?

“Yes, but I don’t know if I should tell you

What’s your favourite music to listen to when you run?

“Music is so important when I am running, but my taste in music is really eclectic. The music I listen to when running needs to be really powerful so it’s mostly rock. One example is Last Nite by the Strokes.”

The rise and rise of trail running in Hong Kong According to one of the city’s leading social run organisers, the popularity of trail-running races in Hong Kong has “exploded” in recent years.

Scott Christensen, the chief organiser of the Hong Kong Trail Runners group on the MeetUp social network, said the sport was attracting increasing numbers of people, most of whom are just amateur athletes.

“Some races that used to be organised by 15 friends running up someone’s favourite trail are now major events with thousands of people participating,” he said.

A 49-year-old American start-up founder who has been living in the city for 10 years, Christensen said Mid-levels was the perfect area for new runners to enjoy Hong Kong’s trails. “We’re very lucky that just minutes from the urban streets of Midlevels there are so many trails to explore…

Connecting with nature is a nice reset from the office or being in the same apartment day after day. The feeling of placing one foot over the other on rough terrain is such a mindful experience.”

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home & living

Hamptons table lamp ($2,992.50) and white cabinet with brass plate ($10,392)

Welcome home, pup

What do luxury furniture and pets have in common? They are for life, writes Nicole Slater

L

uxury furniture and homewares brand Bowerbird Home, based at Horizon Plaza, recently collaborated with Hong Kong Dog Rescue (HKDR) in the charity’s most adorable campaign to date. The cute campaign aims to promote the “Adopt don’t shop” mentality while also highlighting the fact that just like a dog, a piece of Bowerbird Home furniture is for life (not just for Christmas!).

The stars of the campaign were rescue dogs and puppies Carlo, Bertie, Ace, Vanilla and Lottie. Although they were a little camerashy at first, they soon became accustomed to a life of luxury, even deciding to take a little nap halfway through the shoot. There were even a few accidents along the way!

Lisa Cameron, Marketing Coordinator at Bowerbird Home, says: “If the images make at least one person consider adoption we will deem it to be a successful collaboration.

Hopefully it will encourage far more people to adopt.”

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With animal adoption on the rise in Hong Kong, Bowerbird Home thought it was the perfect time to help remove the stigma associated with abandoned or

“mongrel” dogs. They hope the campaign’s heartwarming images will highlight the fact that all dogs deserve a safe, warm and welcoming home. “It’s easy to see a

Cambridge sectional sofa with sand linen (starting from $3,992)

woof pedigree puppy in a pet-shop window and automatically want to buy it, but what a lot of people don’t understand is the cruel reality behind puppy mills, especially in Hong Kong.

By adopting, you are giving a dog a chance a life that it otherwise wouldn’t have had,” comments Lisa.

HKDR was founded by Lamma resident Sally Andersen in 2003. The charity is dedicated to rescuing Hong Kong’s abandoned dogs and has successfully rehomed more than 8,000 dogs to date. Many of the dogs were previously family pets that were neglected or abandoned by their owners.

Semirah Darwin, manager of the HKDR photography team, says: “When I was approached by my friend Martin Graham, the owner of Bowerbird Home, for the project, I was excited to take on this task as it combined my passion for photography and my dedication to changing our puppies’ lives.”

She continues: “HKDR is always happy to lend our support to organisations that are keen to help promote our work and I think Bowerbird Home provided the perfect setting to show potential adopters the calm nature and beauty of our mongrel puppies waiting for homes.”

The charity is proud to be a “no-kill”

Cabinet with brass plate ($10,392)

organisation, meaning that no dog under its care is euthanised for any reason other than when it is the only humane option.

Describing the day of the photoshoot, Lisa adds: “The office turned to mush, baby voices and more. I’m surprised we made it through the day without a single adoption by

any of our employees… although our senior stylist Clinton came seriously close.”

So far, almost all of the doggie models in the campaign have been adopted. And Bowerbird Home will donate a percentage of its sales from the month of August to HKDR. M

Antique rattan trunk ($7,192)

hongkongliving.com | 33

property talk

Amazing apartments

Chris Liem highlights some desirable Mid-levels real estate

T

he summer holidays are over, and it’s time to roll up our sleeves and get back into work mode! For me and my colleagues, it’s an exciting time – the return from holidays usually sees a spike in sales and the trend is set to continue right until the end of the year.

On the rental front, there is usually a dip in inbound moves to Hong Kong through September. Rentals do follow a peak-andtrough pattern, but on the whole business is consistent in and around Mid-levels from existing clients in Hong Kong looking to move from their current apartments.

of marketing it. That’s a new record for the building. The previous record was $114 million. The price might be on the high side, but these units are in keen demand, not least because of the good size and the stunning open views of Central.

And at the end of the day, the location is great.

Star property Over the past three months or so, demand has been high for sought-after properties in Mid-levels, in particular in the secondary market and in sales of over HK$100 million.

There’s a record going nearly every month.

A case in point is Estoril Court at 55 Garden Road. It’s sort of a star property. We recently concluded a sale, listing the unit, a 2,888 sq. ft. (saleable area) four-bedroom apartment, at $125 million. We sold it within 10 days

Mid-levels hot picks Currently, homeowners looking for a quality home and investors after secure investments in Mid-levels have a good range of choices.

Azura and Palatial Crest, both on Seymour Road, and Alassio on Caine Road and Soho 38, on Shelley Street, are hot picks at the moment. They are in different price brackets and make for secure investments. Demand for both rent and buy is high, especially Soho 38 and the Swire properties Azura and

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Soho 38 is currently in high demand

Alassio, as they are relatively new buildings.

For comfort and convenience, Palatial Crest is extremely well priced. Happy flat-hunting! M Chris Liem is the owner and principal of Engel & Völkers Hong Kong, a real estate brand specialising in the luxury residential sector.

Shop A, G/F, 95 Caine Road, Mid-levels, 2561 3616

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education

Open Day at Shrewsbury

Amelia Sewell headed to Tseung Kwan O to explore this brand-new new international school

W

hilst the rest of us were enjoying a peaceful summer, over in Tseung Kwan O a team of people were busily putting the finishing touches to Shrewsbury International School Hong Kong. On August 29, they opened their doors to a swarm of eager primary-school children who were ready to experience a brand-new school and all that it has to offer. So what awaited the children?

As is to be expected when a school is purpose-built from scratch, the bright, spacious campus is entered via a grand sweeping staircase and is spread across six floors. Students will be aged between Nursery and Year 6, with two year groups on each floor. There’s an impressive auditorium seating over 400 people, a recital suite, a language centre, a gymnastics hall, a dining hall, not one but two swimming pools (one is for the real littlies learning to swim), and of course the obligatory sky track.

Tradition meets modernity As founding principal, Ben Keeling is a well-known name amongst parents, having played an integral role in the set-up of Kellett’s Kowloon Bay campus in 2013. He is therefore familiar with both the Hong

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Kong education system and the challenges of establishing a school from the ground up.

In his words, Shrewsbury HK has worked hard to create an environment with “traditional educational values and innovative teaching methodology”.

The tradition obviously stems from the links with the UK school; founded over 450 years ago, Shrewsbury UK is one of the original nine British public schools, in good company with the likes of Eton and Winchester. Academically, therefore, the core programme of study at the new school will be linked closely to the English National Curriculum whilst simultaneously acknowledging its international status.

It’s all Chinese to me Of particular focus are Mandarin lessons, which will be a taught daily to all children throughout the school.

To spearhead this, Shrewsbury recently appointed Dr. Suyi Wang as Chief Academic Officer for Chinese Studies for its international schools. Her role will be to design the “ambitious” Chinese curricu-

lum, adapting it to ensure that these young students are learning in the most efficient and enjoyable way possible. She will be supported by Ms. Haze Kwok, who takes on the role of Chinese Master Teacher, responsible for implementing the programme. The school is acutely aware that it will have a combination of native, near-native and non-native students and will adapt accordingly.

On the topic of simplified vs. traditional, the schools says it will teach simplified characters, however students familiar with traditional characters “will be well supported through their learning journey”.

When the school is at capacity it will have 1,000 students, with six classes in each primary year group. Lessons will be themed and taught as a combination of academic study together with exploratory and collaborative learning. Most of the teaching staff have been recruited from the UK, further evidence of Shrewsbury’s intentions not just to play lip service to the English National Curriculum but also to provide teachers who are up to date with current standards and expectations.

British schools are known as much for what goes

education on outside the classroom as for what goes on inside, and Shrewsbury Hong Kong is no different.

The school intends to make the most of its rural location close to mountains, forests, hiking trails and parks, offering an education beyond academics.

Another acknowledgment of its British heritage is the implementation of a house system. There will also be an in-school dining facility. Rather than eating separately, teachers will sit with the children during lunchtime, encouraging conversation and a focus on manners.

Next stop With no plans to extend its provision to a secondary school, Shrewsbury will instead offer an advisory service to parents as they consider their children’s next steps. As the school intends to develop good relationships with all the major senior schools, there will be no “feeder” concept – no one school will be favoured above others. Instead, the school will offer informed and unbiased guidance. There is also the possibility for pupils to move to Shrewsbury in the UK for their secondary schooling, provided they meet certain academic criteria.

The school is a five-minute walk from LOHAS Park MTR, although the school expects most students to arrive by bus. Unlike in some locations, parents are not prohibited from driving children to school each day, however Shrewsbury will strongly encourage

Shrewsbury’s founding principal Ben Keeling and his happy pupils

students to use the organised bus service. Rather than a door-to-door service, there will be pick up points located in all major parts of Hong Kong, making the school an option for all.

When the school was in its planning stages, Shrewsbury made a definitive decision that its Hong Kong offering would be a “primary specialist” rather than a jack-of-all-trades catering for every group. As such, the school is very much designed with small children in mind. But as we all know, small children have big potential, and Shrewsbury provides the perfect environment for them to start realising it.

Shrewsbury from above

Principal’s Office

Shrewsbury – Ben Keeling What led you to work in education?

I believe that the education of young children plays a critical role in the development of society. I moved into teaching from a career in design – I wanted to better utilise the critical thinking and communication skills I had developed.

What’s your Hong Kong story?

My wife was born in Hong Kong. The opportunity to work here, and to bring my wife “home” seemed too good to miss. The birth of our first child just a few months ago further connects our family to the region.

What does Shrewsbury bring to the Hong Kong education scene?

We provide a uniquely focused experience for primary-aged students.

Which parts of the school/campus are you most proud of?

Our campus reflects our commitment to specialist provision. Distinct spaces for the teaching of athletics, gymnastics, dance,

drama, design, music, performing arts and science have all been carefully considered to ensure best access for children aged between three and 11.

What are your thoughts on technology during primary school?

While technology brings a multitude of benefits and supports seamless collaboration, we must also be mindful of the need to consciously support the development of personal relationships. A sense of balance, through intelligent selection, is critical in ensuring the very best outcomes for all students.

What was your favourite subject at school?

It would be very difficult to choose between Mathematics and Design.

Where do you take friends who are visiting Hong Kong?

One of my favourite things about Hong Kong is the diverse range of opportunity available.

From the beautiful waterfront in Sai Kung to the densely packed alleyways of Mong Kok and the glitz and glamour of Central – I enjoy showing off the variety of life here.

What do you do when you are not at work?

Away from school I live a relatively quiet life – I enjoy walking and running, spending time with my family, reading and the cinema.

What was the last book you read?

I read “Room on The Broom” by Julia Donaldson to my son before bed last night!

hongkongliving.com | 37

interview What comment do you remember from your school reports?

The majority of them seemed to be along the lines of “We can’t fault her enthusiasm but it would be lovely if Amelia could give the others in the class the chance to contribute as well.” Another report noted a strong character resemblance between me and Margaret Thatcher, which I chose to believe was intended as a compliment.

What was the best thing you learnt at school?

My school motto was “Plus Est En Vous”, which the French would be able to tell you means “More is in you.” I think about it often now and realise how applicable it is to almost everything.

How is the Hong Kong education system different to that in the UK? They are tricky beasts to compare. The Hong Kong education system is very much a product of its environment: this is an Asian city with a large expat community but a limited landmass, and the school options reflect that, with a mixture of local and international schools, predominantly within urban surroundings. In the UK, you don’t perhaps get the same diversity of people but you do get diversity of places.

Little Amelia Sewell loved every moment at her pre-prep in Nofolk, UK

What are the benefits of an international education in Hong Kong?

An education in a city like Hong Kong gives the opportunity to broaden a child’s cultural knowledge (and hopefully, compassion). In more closed communities with limited diversity, you might have one or two children in a class who speak a different language or follow a different religion, but in Hong Kong that number is much higher. It helps to dissolve

School daze

Our Education Editor, Amelia Sewell, shares her school memories and advice to parents looking for the perfect school in Hong Kong Where did you go to school?

I am half-English and half-Australian but grew up entirely in the UK. So my first school was a tiny and completely charming little pre-prep called Hawthorne House in Norfolk.

It had just three teachers. I then went to a prep school called Beeston Hall, they gave me six wonderful years of Enid Blytonstyle schooling: tree climbing, tuck shops, dormitories and hockey matches. At 13 I moved to Gordonstoun in Scotland, where I perfected the art of not getting caught.

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Did you enjoy your school years?

I truly loved school. I was lucky that my parents put a lot of time and effort into choosing schools that would really suit my brother and me, and I had a ball.

If you could change one thing about your school years, what would it be?

Appreciate how long the school holidays are!

Starting my first job was quite a shock when I realised that an eight-week summer holiday was not a courtesy extended to adults.

Amelia (middle) and her classmates

interview some of the “them vs. us” idea and encourages children to realise from an early age that the world is full of people who are different to them and that this should be embraced.

What features should parents look for in a good Hong Kong school?

In Hong Kong particularly, I think it’s crucial to ask questions about the staff. Does the school have lots of transient teachers who only stay a year or two before relocating to a new country? Does the school make an effort to retain its staff? Are the teachers up to date on their specific curriculum? Wanderlust is a magical thing, but not if it’s to the detriment of the students that the teachers are being employed to educate.

How do Hong Kong schools cater to children with extra learning needs?

Sadly, this area needs some work. Off the top of my head, I can name on just one hand the schools in Hong Kong that actively welcome children with SEN [Special Educational Needs]. Many children with some level of SEN can easily be part of a mainstream class if they’re given a little additional support – my brother was one of them, and so was my husband. Hong Kong schools seem to take the easy route and only offer places to

children who do not require extra assistance.

To borrow a well-used school-report phrase, “Must try harder.”

What would you like to change about the Hong Kong education system?

Aside from the previous point about SEN and the ridiculous practice of putting small children in an interview situation, I would put greater emphasis on creativity in English lessons. English is often taught in a very sterile way in Hong Kong, with importance on grammatical perfection. Fine, grammar is important, but no more so than creativity. My opinion is that it’s more important for eightyear-olds to be able to reel off five interesting words for the verb “to walk” (words like stroll, wander, amble, saunter, shuffle) than to be able to put the punctuation mark in exactly the right place every single time.

Why should parents attend school fairs?

It’s an unavoidable fact that when parents are selecting a school, they need to gather lots of information and ask a plethora of questions so they can make an informed decision about which school might be right for their child. Attending a school fair [where many different schools have a booth] helps to shorten this process as parents have access

to a large amount of information, in one place.

I recommend that parents arrive with a list of questions and take plenty of notes.

Amelia Sewell will host the Hong Kong Living Annual Schools Fair on October 20 at The Annex, 173 Des Voeux Road Central, Central.

Tickets are $60 at the door, or scan the QR code to register for a free ticket.

hongkongliving.com | 39

travel

Exploring Finland

Jane Steer visits the happiest country in the world

S

ummer in Finnish Lakeland is a breath of fresh air. Literally. Affectionately known as “La-la”, Lakeland boasts some of the cleanest air on the planet, with pristine water and untouched forest to match. Vast, beautiful and empty, this is a sparkling world of peace and tranquillity, lakes and trees. The food is fabulous, the culture is interesting, and the lifestyle is outdoorsy. If ever there was a place to escape steamy, polluted, frenetic Hong Kong, this is it. Need to recharge your batteries? Try Finland.

At the country’s – and the mainland European Union’s – most easterly point, where central Finland nudges into Russia, sit North Karelia and its neighbour, Northern Savonia, or North Savo to its friends. This is arguably the most

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“Finnish” part of Finland, long considered a national utopia. “This landscape is our heart; our happy place,” explains one local.

It’s best experienced from the top of UkkoKoli, a rare hill in North Karelia’s Koli National Park, with a jaw-dropping view of 100km-long Lake Pielinen and its myriad forested islands.

The beauty of this listed national landscape inspired Finnish composer Jean Sibelius to write his Symphony No. 4. In winter, this is one of the region’s few downhill ski resorts (Tahko in North Savo is another), with a funicular railway offering a handy ride up most of the hill’s 347 vertical metres.

This land has been fought over for centuries, flipping between Sweden, Russia and

Finland. It’s 101 years since Finland won its independence from Russia and 70 or so since the border was redrawn, splitting Karelia between Finland and the Soviet Union, where its culture has been slowly eroded. But in Finnish North Karelia, traditions still run deep.

Indeed, many of those traditions have been adopted nationwide, such as the kantele (a 2,000-year-old stringed musical instrument taught in primary schools), the Kalevala book of folk poetry, and Karelian pastries, a breakfast staple of sticky rice wrapped in crisp rye dough and best served slathered in butter.

In Lakeland, brown bears and wolverines roam, B&B landladies break into impromptu kantele performances and nice tourist-board executives

travel hunt elk in their spare time. And Finns have a lot of spare time. Perhaps that’s one reason they were declared the happiest people on the planet this year, if not the jolliest (Finns are famously poker-faced; witness inscrutable Formula 1 driver Kimi “Ice Man” Raikkonen).

An admirable approach to work-life balance means most Finns have a four-week summer holiday – and almost everyone spends at least part of it at a summerhouse. Lakeland is summerhouse central.

Traditionally painted red, with white eaves and window frames, these wooden cabins peek out, blushing, from the birches, pines and spruces along the lakeshores. Many have private jetties, often with boats pulled up alongside, or furnished with benches ready to enjoy the Finnish holy trinity of sauna, beer and sausages.

Sauna is a national obsession. Finland has 5.5 million people and three million saunas, including some in the unlikeliest of places: a bus, a tractor, tents. While close friends and family might strip naked to enjoy the steamy heat, flicking each other with leafy birch twigs to clean and exfoliate the skin, swimming costumes are the norm among less familiars.

Whatever you’re wearing (or not wearing), a Lala sauna is inevitably followed by a brisk plunge into the nearest lake. It’s bracing, but it feels surprisingly good. Afterwards.

While most summerhouses have a sauna, not all have electricity or running water. For some, this is part of the joy. Days are spent chopping firewood, fetching water, foraging and preparing the sauna. Dinner might be cooked in a kota, or grill house, a teepee-shaped wooden hut containing an open fire, cooking plate and kettle. At our summerhouse in Purnuranta, near Koli, the kota had cosy reindeer hides over the built-in seats for comfort while smoking trout or flipping pancakes.

If the thought of fetching firewood and water is too hardcore, rent a holiday cottage with all mod cons – power, an electric sauna, a stove, a hot shower – and spend your time kayaking, hiking, fishing or mountain biking (see sidebar).

Or just head out to explore.

Finland’s “everyman’s rights” allow the public to roam anywhere in the country, on public land or private. If you know what you’re looking for, help yourself to tiny wild strawberries, bilberries (blueberries), lingonberries, herbs and mushrooms. And feel free to wild camp just about anywhere, or picnic at the campfires and kotas, stocked with firewood, dotted throughout the countryside (find them at tulikartta.fi). Just don’t intrude too closely to homes.

“Most people have their own favourite patch of forest for mushrooms and berries, which they often keep secret,” explains our friendly elkhunter. “People can get a bit obsessional about it; there are mushroom societies and clubs.”

Summer eating is all about seasonal ingredients, plucked fresh from the forest or sustainably fished from the lakes. The Finnish approach to cooking is similar to Italy’s in its emphasis on quality ingredients cooked simply, with salads and fish giving way to rib-sticking stews, pies and casseroles in the long, dark winter.

But this is the short, light summer, when the sun dips below the horizon for only a few hours and it never gets dark. Finns make the most of it. Winter is the time for sleeping. Summer is the time for partying at a packed schedule of festivals.

The annual Kuopio Wine Festival, in North Savo, is buzzing. Even a chilly late-evening downpour can’t dampen the mood. Wearing raincoats and boots, the festival crowd roars out the lyrics with headline act JVG, a pair of former icehockey players who perform tongue-in-cheek raps about summer’s sunburn, mojitos and mosquitoes. After all, as they say in Finland, there’s no bad weather, only bad clothing.

Next day, the sun reappears, the temperature climbs back into the 20s, and a cruise on sparkling, wind-ruffled Lake Kallavesi beckons.

At Kuopio harbour, we stop for a while. And breathe.

How to get there •

Finnair’s new fleet of low-emission Airbus A350s fly non-stop daily from Hong Kong to Helsinki in about 10 hours.

•

Business class features distinctively Finnish touches, including food by chef Jaakko Sorsa of FINDS, Hong Kong’s only Nordic restaurant, amenities kits by Marimekko, and a Northern Lights-style display in the cabin during landing.

•

Got a layover in Helsinki? Spend it in the Finnair lounge, a series of beautifully designed spaces flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows. As well as free food and drink, facilities include showers and, of course, a sauna.

•

Finnair has teamed up with Hong Kong travel agents Jetour and Westminster Travel to offer a number of packages to Finland, including self-drive and family tours. Details at finnair.com, jetour.com.hk and leisure.westminstertravel.com hongkongliving.com | 41

travel

Things to do North Karelia

Feel Koli

Spot a “troll’s nose” (tree deformation) and bounce on moss that grows as deep and springy as a trampoline on a nature tour through Koli National Park with Feel Koli, which also rents hiking and snowshoe equipment. feelkoli.fi

Laitalan Lomat, Nurmes Karelia Cottages

Minna and Marja organise adventure and cultural experiences, including kantele and art workshops, cooking classes, foraging trips, kayaking, fishing, family treasure hunts and overnight “forest bathing” in hammocks. kareliacottages.com

Try a peat sauna at this rural guesthouse. Plaster your face with smooth, sticky peat, which dries in the sauna and is washed off in the lake, leaving the skin soft and super-clean. laitalanlomat.com

Paateri Church & Eva Ryynanen’s studio, near Lieska

Sinkkonen Berry Farm, near Joensuu Koli Activ

Rent two-man kayaks, SUPs or bicycles, and afterwards, treat yourself to blueberry cake and custard at its lakeside café. koliactiv.fi

North Savo

Summer is strawberry season and you can pick eight different varieties at this farm and cafe. sinkkosenmarjatila.fi

An hour’s boat ride from Koli this charming forest church was built by late Finnish sculptor Eva Ryynanen in the backyard of her cottage and studio. Known for carving whimsical sculptures from whole tree trunks, the church is her finest creation, with an altar made from tree roots, pews scattered with bas-relief flowers, lambs carved into the beams and a beautiful floor made from slices of tree trunk. Paateri 21, Vuonisjärvi, Lieska, tel: +358 40 1044055.

Aholansaari Museum, near Tahko

A short ferry ride from Tahko, Aholansaari was once home to 18th-century Lutheran revivalist pastor Paaro Ruotsalainen, whose wooden home is now a museum.

It’s a charming glimpse of Finland’s past set among the meadows of what is now a holiday camp.

Open to all, there’s also a café and open-air church. aholansaari.fi

Jatkankamppa smoke sauna, near Kuopio

Finns discard their inhibitions with their clothes, so expect to get chatting in the world’s largest smoke sauna at Jatkankamppa, a converted 1950s lumberjack lodge. Part of the Spa Hotel Rauhalahti and campsite, it’s open on Tuesdays and Thursdays for “Finnish nights”, including a meal and a lumberjack demonstration, and on Fridays in summer. rauhalahti.fi 42 | hongkongliving.com

travel Lakeland Lines, Kuopio

Grill It, Koli

Run by singing Captain Kari, this local boat operator offers lunch and dinner cruises on Lake Kallavesi. lakelandlines.fi

Stunning views accompany a meal at this contemporary hilltop restaurant in Break Sokos Hotel Koli. Beautifully plated dishes include slow-roasted pork belly with smoked potatoes and salad. sokoshotels.fi

Tahko Safarit

Rent an efatbike, with extra-wide tyres and an electric engine to boost pedal power and allow riders to zoom uphill with ease and freewheel down with the wind in their hair.

Join CEO Arto Jauhiainen for a hike into the wilderness and learn to build a fire, whittle a stick and barbecue sausages. Or go canoeing, quad biking, paintballing, or orienteering, the choice is yours. tahkosafarit.fi

Where to eat

Puukarin Pysakki, near Nurmes

Isa Camillo, Kuopio

Traditional Karelian fare is on the menu at this rural B&B, including sweet-and-sour cabbage salad, slow-cooked osso bucco, and rye bread, recently voted Finland’s national dish. puukarinpysakki.com

Dine on divine pike perch gratinated with spring onion pesto and served with beurre blanc at this stylish modern European restaurant in a converted 1912 bank that once held Finland’s entire gold reserves in a vault now used as a private dining room. isacamillo.ravintolamestarit.net

Ukko, Tahko

Local Bistro, Joensuu

A popular après-ski bar (dancing on tables encouraged) and fondue restaurant on the slopes of Tahko, Pekhubaari is a top spot for a summer lunch or post-hike coffee and cake. Inside is the tahko, or grindstone, found during construction that gives the resort its name. pekhu.fi

One of the top 50 restaurants in the country, Local Bistro serves innovative Finland cuisine.

Seasonal, local ingredients are elevated in dishes such as nettle pancake with rhubarb, cauliflower and egg sauce, or mushroom pie with pickled mushrooms, pea foam, broccoli and yoghurt. localbistro.fi

When it comes to smiling for a photo, Finns don’t say “cheese” they say “muikku”, a reference to a tiny, ubiquitous freshwater fish.

Ukko bar and restaurant serves them deepfried, whitebait style. tahko.com

Pekhubaari, Tahko

Five things you (probably) didn’t know about Finland 1. Finland’s nickname, the land of a thousand lakes, is woefully short of the mark. It has nearly 188,000 lakes and 179,000 islands.

Places to stay Kolin Keidas, Koli

Renovating this cosy old farmhouse in Koli National Park was a labour of love for owners Joona and Marianne, who now run it as a B&B. They also offer forest yoga, an organic café and a traditional wood-fired sauna. kolinkeidas.com

Sokos Hotel Puijonsarvi, Kuopio

A large, stylish hotel in the heart of Kuopio and a few minutes’ walk from the harbour. sokoshotels.fi

Break Sokos Hotel Bomba, Nurmes

Part modern spa hotel and part traditional Karelian village, Break Sokos Hotel Bomba combines modern luxury with heritage.

At its heart is the Bomba Restaurant in a reconstruction of a famous Karelian house. sokoshotels.fi

Golden Resort, Tahko

Stay in large luxury villas, each with its own sauna, set in a peaceful golf course just outside Tahko. goldenresort.fi

Summerhouses

The Visit Karelia tourist board has comprehensive online listings for holiday cottages at visitkarelia.fi, and for North Savo try lomarengas.fi M

2. In winter, the lakes freeze. Once the ice is 20cm deep, it is safe to walk, skate and ski on. Ice on most Lakeland lakes reaches 50cm thick; Lapland lake ice reaches a metre deep.

3. There is only one Finnish word in English dictionaries: sauna. And they would appreciate it if we pronounced it correctly – sow-na, to rhyme with “how”, rather than saw-na, to rhyme with, er, “saw”.

4. Post-sauna lake swims continue throughout winter, with hardy Finns plunging into holes cut in the ice. Not for the faint-hearted.

5. Don’t be fazed by those long Finnish words – simply pronounce every letter. Good luck!

hongkongliving.com | 43

woof

Doggy Distress Sally Andersen explains dogs’ routines and how the back-to-school season affects them Dogs are creatures of routine because it makes them feel secure – they like to wake up at the same time every morning, eat at scheduled meal times and have regular walks and toilet breaks. Sometimes this strict dog timetable can be a bit annoying for you if you fancy a lie-in or don’t feel like taking the dog out early on a Sunday, and that’s fine, your dog will live.

However a complete disruption to daily life can be very stressful for our canine companions, and that stress can manifest itself in a variety of ways, from a lack of appetite to diarrhoea, or even a change in usual behaviour. Moving home, a relationship break-up or having a baby, or even our own unhappiness and moods, can affect dogs in a negative way.

Holiday times can be also hard for our dogs as they often mean the family disappears for weeks on end and the dogs have to go into boarding kennels. Even assuming they can stay at home (if you’re lucky enough to have

Sometimes the reverse happens and the family stays at home for the holidays, meaning extra time spent with the dog and special fun outings and adventures together such as hiking, swimming or going to the beach. Then when it’s time to go back to work or school, all of the fun

stops and suddenly there’s no one around for the dog to play with anymore.

If you do plan to put your dogs into a boarding kennel when you go away, by far the best choices are the home-from-home options, which are more like holiday camps for dogs than kennels. In fact if you regularly use the same place, it can even be something your dog enjoys, as there will be regular walks and other dogs to play with in a place that has become familiar.

e n b o. a c s to Dog ssed , stre

Walkies Walkies with Mid-levels resident Roz

Y

eti is about ten-and-a-half years old now. How we found him is a really special story. Ten years ago, my husband, our other dog and I were walking on The Peak when our dog heard little cries for help. My husband found poor Yeti and rescued him. So we went up with one dog, and came down with two! Yeti was just a puppy then, but he already had big feet.

Coupled with the fact that he was from the mountain, we decided to name him Yeti.

When Yeti first got home with us, he was sick with yellow tick fever. The doctor told us that we couldn’t put him on the ground, as that would make him weaker. So for the first six months of his life, Yeti mostly stayed indoors.

That made him quite shy around people.

He likes going out, but he prefers smaller doggies to people.

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a reliable full-time helper), it still means the family not being there for the duration of the vacation, and that can be a lonely time, because dogs thrive on companionship and having their humans around.

Sally Andersen is the founder of Hong Kong Dog Rescue, a charity that rescues, rehabilitates and re-homes unwanted or abandoned dogs. hongkongdogrescue.com

We have a few walks around Mid-levels.

We live near Tung Wah Hospital, so we often stroll down Po Yan Street and walk up Hollywood Road. Sometimes we walk around Square Street, then go up to Po Hing Fong.

Another of our walks is up Po Hing Fong, up Kui In Fong, then down Caine Lane.

Yeti may be a bit shy, but recently he was very brave and sniffed some people! He needs some time warming up to others, but he’s a very good and resilient boy. Yeti is very special to us.

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zim city

In the land-supply debate, follow the money Who stands to benefit from development, and what are the environmental and social costs?

T

hree core issues are starting to crystallise as the consultation process about Hong Kong’s land supply moves along. And the options will definitely not be cheap. Let’s look at who is chasing the money.

Reclamation. The construction and engineering industries, together with the Government, are in favour of a plan to create a large new reclaimed island between Lantau and Hong Kong Island. Our Hong Kong Foundation has taken the lead in calling for an Enhanced East Lantau Metropolis of 2,200ha – double what the Government has proposed. The cost is estimated at $2,000/sq.ft., or about $500 bn.

The beneficiaries of the funds will be the contractors and engineers. And the Government will generate land premiums from the land sales.

The proponents’ argument is that resolving the issues involved in developing the New Territories will take too long. Opponents are concerned that, besides the damage to the marine environment, the fact that so much money is tied up with this mega-project means there will be no resources left to clean up the New Territories.

Brownfields. Unlikely partners – green groups and the landowners, including our home-grown developers and the Heung Yee Kuk – are favouring development of the New Territories. Green groups are keen to see a stop to the environmental rot of the brownfields, while the landowners want to cash in on their land banks. Green groups want

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land-resumption programmes, together with a strengthening of the Government’s resources and legal powers to ensure that brownfields don’t spread to other land, destroying habitats and agriculture.

Many of the landowners, however, want the right to develop their own land. Some are suggesting a compromise solution, with Public Private Partnership developments. The cost of land resumption to be paid to owners is lower than the cost of building the artificial island, but it will require more government manpower to negotiate with the many parties involved. Our “lazy” government prefers writing a tender for a reclamation project and then leaving it with the contractor.

Military land. Much of the current 2,700 hectares of military land is currently underutilised. The naval base at Stonecutters is an essential facility and it would be impractical to move it. The air force facilities in Shek Kong are also essential, but they could perhaps be moved to Chep Lap Kok airport once the third runway is in place. The near-empty barracks and the firing range in Tuen Mun should be reviewed to see whether the land can be used for better public purposes.

Article 13 of the Garrison Law promulgated by the NPC in 1996 allows exactly for this negotiation to take place between the Hong Kong Government and the PLA. It also sets out how to deal with the associated costs and the compensation to be paid. Given the clamour for land, both parties have a serious responsibility

to weigh military versus public uses for each site. Article 15 explains how such a discussion is to proceed.

The above are the three big items. Other options are near-shore reclamations (these are generally supported, but there are local objections), the use of the golf course (there’s endless debate over privileges, but we do lack sports facilities) and moving the container port (or consolidating it with other ports in the Pearl River Delta). M

Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the coconvenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.

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