Served Magazine #15

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€3.80 where sold – Christmas ‘20

always hungry.

No.

15

Festive Feasts Time to fill your homes with the warm smells of Christmas as you whip up food worth celebrating together!

On the cover This issue, Chef Andre Spiteri from Hilton Malta graces us with a refined pigeon dish, inspired by our culinary tradition, and a perfect symphony of past and present. Find this extravagant recipe at www.served.mt

ISSUE #15 E NJOY IT ALL

www.served.com.mt

WILD CAMPING IN KAZBEGI CAUCASUS Pg. 48

Kieran Creevy and Lisa Paarvio become immersed in the icy landscape of Georgia but are sustained by the warmth of the people who inspire them to cook dishes that speak of an immoveable resilience and timeless comfort.



Christmas at HILTON MALTA

Making Memories with your loved ones

Safely

for more information:

PORTOMASO, ST.JULIANS, STJ4012 T: +356 2138 3383 I F: www.facebook.com/hiltonmalta


A SAFE WAY TO ENJOY CHRISTMAS Contactless payments with BOV Pay

Talk to us | 2131 2020 | bov.com Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Żakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130. Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).




#inside

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09. Perfecting Preserved Lemons Bring a taste of the Middle East into your dishes with this simple preservation technique.

13. In the Know

From locally made preserves to handmade crockery our guide has you covered.

18. Carob- The Black Gold of the Med

We demystify the pod that is engrained in our culture and reveal its myriad uses.

22. The Secret Life of Micro Organisms A foray into fermentation and a fascinating look at what lies beneath the surface.

24. The Inner Workings of a Chef

Debbie Schembri catches up with Executive Chef of Ion- The Harbour, Andrew Borg, who reveals some of his inspirational process.

26. Morning Fuel

Unusual breakfasts that will have you reaching in for more!

50. Too Pretty to Eat?

Upper Food’s expert guide to curating the perfect platter for entertaining this holiday season.

52. A Little Bit of Kitsch this Christmas

We put our little spin on some guilty pleasures and show off some beautiful serving ware from Space for Clay.

55. Lush Risotto with Burnt Garlic and Maltese Snails'

A gorgeous recipe from Abrahams by Vini e Capricci, definitely worth trying!

62. Waste Not, Want Not! Lampuki- Head to Tail

71. Pick ‘n’ Mix Hampers

Create your own personalised hampers, choosing from a range of artisanal products, to show your loved ones you really care.

57. Souped Up!

Get the main festive meal going with these spins on the more traditional soup.

74. Sweet Nothings

Desserts for sharing with those extra special people in your life.

78. Have Yourself a Green Christmas

The good guys at ReRoot inspire us to make our own natural and sustainable Christmas decorations this year.

Forget about throwing away those bones or skin! Turn them into something incredibly delicious instead!

61. Quick Fix

A gooey froga tat- tarja sandwich that will instantly transport you back to childhood!

Hit served.com.mt and find hundreds more delicious recipes to sink your teeth into. Scan QR code for Served website

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#the editor

T

his year certainly hasn’t been easy for anyone. We could dwell on the obvious downfalls, but to disregard the way it has forced us to reflect would be unfortunate. As I was mulling on what I would be taking away from it all, I naturally started to relate it to food and the way we eat. I began to focus on the idea that for us to survive our present situation we have had to look to the past; to give us context, appreciation, and a better understanding of life’s temporary nature. We have been shown that it is never a bad thing to save for the future, yet that it is equally important to live in the present. Preserving the past to better understand the present and the future.

Editor

Debbie Schembri

Creative Director Chris Psaila

Photography

Stephen Galea

Coordination + Advertising

Sam Psaila – 7788 0300

Printing – Print It

Contibutors

Alison Azzopardi Christina Farrugia Hilton Malta Jean Paul Farrugia Keith Abela Kristina Cassar Dowling Kieran Creevy Lisa Paarvio Sam Degaetano Stephen la Rosa Stephen Galea Vini e Capricci by Abrahams

Our chefs and home cooks brilliantly explore this theme, both through the preservation of ingredients on a practical level, by incorporating age old techniques like pickling and fermenting in their dishes, but also on a cultural level. This issue highlights the fact that, although it is important to learn cooking styles from countries outside of our own, it is just as important to respect our own heritage. The importance of maintaining a relationship with the food of our cultural past through traditional recipes that talk of a time in history, as well as those passed down through our families. One thing I find astonishing about taste and smell is how expertly and suddenly it can evoke a sense of nostalgia. As a chef, to be able to cook a dish that takes a guest back to a specific moment, or that transports them home when they are forced to be away because of external circumstances, is a privilege and a joy. This issue is bursting with dishes that speak of the past, but that feel contemporary, without losing their invaluable essence. This is by no means limited to Malta and adventuring

chef, Kieran Creevy, demonstrates how traditional Georgian dishes are imbued with culture and are the perfect remedy to warm the soul in the icy, mountainous terrain. ‘Waste Not, Want Not’ is perhaps one of my favourite sayings and it couldn’t be more pertinent right now. To this end the guys at ReRoot show us how to make stunning and sustainable Christmas decorations out of natural objects around us, and Keith Abela demonstrates how we can utilise the entire fish, ‘From Head to Tail’. Further enhancing the theme of continuity is our stinky star ingredient, Carob. Along with many other Maltese children, I was fascinated by these trees when I was younger. With their low-lying branches and the smelly pods that could be used as currency in my games, these trees were an endless source of play. Each year, at this sort of time, I catch the pungent smell of carob in the air and it transports me back, making me smile. Somewhat more poetically than I, Ruzar Briffa, in his poem Quo Vadis, personifies a majestic Carob tree describing her strong solid roots that stand tranquil in contrast to the shallow, fast paced life that modern society has fallen into living. Sometimes it is better to sit back and take stock. So, this Christmas, as we put our feet up after our eating marathons, perhaps with a nice warm mug of Gulepp nestled in our hands, let’s take a moment to be grateful for the connections we have strengthened this year. Connections to the things that really matter when everything else has been turned upside down and that will see us into the New Year with a confidence in the future that we perhaps thought we had lost. A very joyous Christmas and New Year from the entire Served team!

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. © 2020 Published by [ V ] Publications. – Publishers of Vamp Magazine, Served Magazine & The Malta Artpaper.

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It’s All About Balance

B R E A S T S U R G E R Y AT P E R S O N A Women seek breast surgery for a wide variety of reasons, the main one being to restore balance in body proportions. Yet, in many cases, they’re not totally sure which breast procedure is right for them. A breast lift does not involve implants. Rather, the surgeon reshapes the existing breast tissue, to lift and tighten the breast. In contrast, an augmentation involves placing silicone implants into the breasts in order to enhance size, shape and volume. We offer a choice of the safest implants on the market today, since we firmly believe that you deserve to reap the benefits of technological evolution. These implants give you full control over size and shape, and are designed to move naturally with you. If a breast enhancement is something that has been on your mind for a while, why not schedule a consultation with one of our Plastic Surgeons at Malta’s leading Cosmetic Surgery Centre.

Any surgical procedure carries risks. Always seek prior advice from an appropriately qualified medical practitioner. Image used for illustration purposes only.

P E R S O N A . CO M . M T


#contributors

cooks / chefs Stephen la Rosa

Alison Azzopardi

Stephen spent years cooking in Michelin starred restaurants across New York, San Francisco and London. He then returned to Malta to lead a team of chefs to launch a local culinary academy. He’s now dedicating his time to motivate aspiring cooks to love their time in the kitchen by teaching them chef-level techniques that will transform their cooking. To level up your cooking, check out www. stephenlarosa.co for more recipes, techniques and resources.

Alison spent 6 years running the kitchen at Trabuxu Bistro, prior to that she spent sevaeral years working at Sofiatel, West Sussex. In 2011, she reached the semi-finals in MasterChef: The Professionals and was picked for a one week stage at twoMichelin starred La Gavroche. She is now concentrating on catering personal and intimate events and functions at client’s venues, as well as consultancy. Alison may be contacted for bookings on 99973076.

Andre Spiteri Head chef Hilton Malta Andre started off as Junior chef working his way up. Currently his focus is on the A La Carte section of the Ocean restaurant while concurrently leading a team of passionate and exceptional chefs. He thrives on the creativity involved in cooking and rises to the challenge of delivering a perfect plate every time. In spite of an insane work schedule Andre also mentors the junior chefs sharing his experiences in the kitchen.

Sam Degaetano

Rubert Azzopardi

A self-taught chef and creative with an incredible passion for the natural world. Sam works as a freelance private chef and releases his creative flair in every dish he puts together. He believes that the best tasting food comes from organic, local produce and the love put into every moment of cooking.

Rubert is a Gozitan Chef, graduated from the Institute of Tourism Studies. He moved up the ladder from a kitchen hand to a Sous Chef to an Executive Chef with the aid of the great chefs that helped, inspired and mentored him throughout his journey. He got this passion from his Mum and Grandma`s kitchen in his early days. Rubert believes that food is a way of explaining oneself, “it is an evolution of continuous learning.”

Kristina Cassar Dowling Kristina is a content writer, editor and home cook. Her focus and expertise lie in the food industry, where she focuses mainly on recipe creation, restaurant reviews, and social media content as well as creative strategy for the local restaurant industry. Kristina is currently the Head of Content at FoodBlog Malta.

Keith Abela Keith has always had interest in science and the natural world. Being a chef, forager, fisher, farmer, lecturer and a food preservationist, his focus lies on understanding the science behind the whole process of food production; from the growing of plants to how the mind perceives foods’ flavour. He now makes naturally preserved foods for Natural Preserves.

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' Get ready for your kitchen to smell of sugar and spice and all things nice once you rush to test out the fabulous recipes our chefs and home cooks have put together! ' 010


#perfecting

PERFECTING

PRESERVED LEMONS

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ou may have thumbed through Moroccan and Middle Eastern recipes books, fallen in love with the recipes and then realised that the vast majority will call for preserved lemons and have been put off.

Preserved lemons are like lemons on steroids and will transform a good dish into something amazing. Picture the intense lemoniness and umami punch without the sour tartness. So, what are preserved lemons?

The truth of the matter is that theoretically they are nothing more elaborate than lemons stored in salt and their juices for weeks and months. The magic is in the fermentation.

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Meyer lemons are the preferred lemon of choice in Morocco as they are sweeter, but any variety will work. Try to use organic as the skin is consumed, cleaning them with a vinegar and water solution before starting. Trim the tops and bottoms off the lemons and slice each one into quarters going only 3/4ths of the way down, so that they remain attached at one end. Sterilise a jar large enough to snuggly fit your lemons.

Place a teaspoon of salt at the bottom of the jar and rub a teaspoon of salt into the exposed lemon flesh. Place in the jar, massage to release the juice and repeat with the remaining lemons. If the lemons don’t produce enough juice to cover them squeeze some extra to completely cover. Cover tightly with the lid and leave out for 3 days to kick start the process. Transfer to the fridge and rotate the jar every few days. Try to patiently wait for at least 3 weeks to allow the lemons to develop their flavour. They will only get better with time. Once the lemons are finished don’t discard the curing liquid instead use it to amp up the flavour in marinades, cocktails and salad dressings.

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#inside

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GEORGIAN WILDERNESS

PAN FRIED LAMPUKA WITH FLAVOURS OF HOBZ BIZ -ZEJT

Kieren Creevy braves the freezing temperatures as he treks through Giorgia and cooks heart-warming dishes on open fires.

A different take on the traditional favourite that still manages to capture the spirit and flavours of the dish.

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BALBULJATA TACO

This rustic dish is reinterpreted by chef Sam Degaetano. Perfect for breakfast or a quick lunch.

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VEGGIE BOXING DAY BURGER

CHOCOLATE NUT TART WITH THYME INFUSED CAROB AND YOGURT ICE CREAM

Bringing all of the leftover side dishes into a flavour-packed veggie burger to whisk away the boxing day blues!

A visually stunning dessert using some familiar flavours in unfamiliar ways.

37 DAUPHINOISE POTATOES

There’s a reason some dishes are classics. This combo of cream, potato and garlic cooked in the oven is easy to put together and every bite will make you smile!

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Registration open from the MON 2nd NOV 2020 till midnight of MON 21st DEC 2020. *The Weekly Vouchers will be drawn the following week respectively. A week is determined from MON-SUN with the exception of the closing week to include also MON 21st DEC. **Daily Vouchers will not be drawn daily, but together with the Grand Final Prize to be drawn on FRI 8th JAN 2021. Read the complete Terms & Conditions available on www.lidl.com.mt. Treasure all your receipts as these will be required to validate your winnings. MGA/CCG/023-030/2020.

The prizes images are for illustration purposes only and may vary from the actual prizes.

LIDL VOUCHER

LIDL VOUCHER


#in the know

'in the know' 'A handbook to quality products, definitely worth your time'

Plasmon Guarantee Oasi nella Crescita is a unique standardised system by Plasmon that guarantees mothers the safety of a controlled and rigorous process where strict regulations are followed to regulate the composition, safety and labelling of baby food. Through this, Plasmon is able to carefully trace the raw materials from the field to the jar. Oasi nella Crescita also ensures that all products are made in Italy and are all natural, without the use of dyes and preservatives.

Natural Preserves

Handmade Plates – Space For Clay Food that is prepared with thought and love should be served on accessories that reflects this. Space for Clay makes individually designed and hand made ceramic plates, mugs and dishes. Each piece is handled at least five times during the making and decoration process. All pieces are oven, microwave and dishwasher friendly. Head to their website spaceforclay.com or Instagram page. Inquiries can be sent to spaceforclay@gmail.com

Natural preserves is a small company specialising in homemade and gourmet, naturally preserved food products. Our focus is to create a variety of preserves that are convenient and delicious! We use the very best, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Visit our Facebook page to see our full range of constantly changing products.

Maldon Salt Maldon Salt is a prestigious and unique product known for its flavour and quality and sought after by the health - conscious and gourmets alike. Available in leading groceries & supermarkets.Azzopardi Fisheries St.Pauls Bay / T: 21581109, 21571148 E: info@azzopardifisheries.com.mt

Private Chef Alison Azzopardi After running the kitchen at Trabuxu Bistro, Alison made the decision to leave to cater private events, offering intimate events at client’s venues as well as consultancy. Expect tailor made menus according to client’s tastes, including food intolerances. Contact her on 99973076. 015


BENNA FRESH CREAM .

GENUINE

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FRESH

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500 ml AVAILABLE IN :

250 ml


#in the know

Moak: Music To Your Ears Literally! C

onstantly striving to innovate, Caffè Moak has recently launcehd a new range called My Music Coffee. This line promises a sensory drinking experience that reinforces the bond between coffee and culture. The Moak patronage company has been promoting young writers, filmakers and photographers for years. With this new line, it is now pushing the art form of music to centre stage. Just like coffee, music connects us to memories, people and places. According to the research of Charles Spence from Oxford University, sounds enhance and change flavours of food and beverages. Acute sounds are shown to amplify the sweet and sour notes, while lower ones enhance bitter

flavours. Conversely, yet to the same effect, coffee, with its aroma and sensory features, can evoke a particular music. The My Music Coffee range is available in 6 different blends to satisfy the diverse tastes of coffee drinkers. Moak has linked each unique blend with the specific music genre that its aroma and characteristics best represent. Each one is easily recognizable by distinct and individual pantone colours as well as music style. The range comes in both pods and capsules, each denoted by musical instruments, wind instruments for capsules and string instruments for pods. Caffè Moak have made sure to ensure sustainability in their packaging materials which use FSC®certified paper. This

brand distinguishes wood products that come from forests managed in a proper and responsible way according to strict environmental, social and economic standards. Capsules are compatible with Citiz, Lattissima, Pixie, U, Maestria and Essenza machines produced by Nespresso®. They are also of course compatible with Moak’s own coffee machine the Jukebox Machine. Made in Italy, compact and simple to use, this coffee machine offers great performance. Available for Nespresso compatible capsules or paper pods. A good solution for home, small offices and hotel rooms.

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#in the know

‘Refined dining and stunning homeware to indulge this Christmas.’

Christmas at camilleriparismode Discover Christmas at camilleriparismode with their melange of treasures & gifts to make your Christmas that little bit out of the ordinary. Can’t make it to their Sliema or Rabat shops? Shop their range online at www.camilleriparismode.com.

Hammett’s Mestizo

ClaybyMi

Hammett’s Mestizo is a new, MesoSouth American inspired fusion dining experience created by Chef and restaurateur Chris Hammett and Venezuelan head Chef Jorge Lugo. Mestizo explores the flavours of Latin American cuisine and re-introduces them as refined casual plates, designed for sharing. Expect bold flavours and cooking techniques in dishes like Marisco Saltado and Peruvian Tamal, all complimented by an innovative cocktail selection and extensive wine list.

Michela Mifsud’s latest venture, where she creates ceramic pieces to be used in the office or home. Through her graphic design background, Michela has developed an immense appreciation for functional design. ClaybyMi is inspired by utility - the aim is to create pieces that are useful as well as aesthetically pleasing. Visit her Instagram account ClaybyMi to check out her latest pieces.

Open every day, visit https://www. hammettsmestizo.com/ to book.

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#seasonal

' An exploration of the weirdly, wonderful pod concealing a wealth of benefits.'

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C H E F AL I S O N A Z ZO PA R D I

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CH E F S A M D E G A E TA N O

PAN ET TO N E, PAI N PERDU WI TH

C HO COLATE NUT TA RT W ITH

JA M

AND YOG URT ICE CREA M

CAR O B AN D M A LTESE APPL E

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THYME INFUS ED CA ROB

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ST E P H E N L A R O S A

FLUFFY CA ROB PA NCA KES

W ITH ROA STED PEA RS A ND W HIPPED CA ROB BUTTER


#seasonal

Words: Debbie Schembri

' A plant that is woven into the Maltese mental and physical landscape, so steeped is it in our culture and history.' he smell of carob in the air at this time of year is incredibly evocative. Some love it whilst others can’t stand the ‘stench’. Whichever the reaction, the carob tree, legally protected in Malta, is a plant that is woven into the Maltese mental and physical landscape, so steeped is it in our culture and history. Native to Malta and many other regions of the South and Eastern Mediterranean, carob is officially known as Ceratonia Siliqua and part of the legume family. However, it goes by several other names. The Greek philosopher Theophrastus writes that it was referred to as ‘Egyptian Fig’ and in the Bible we have references to it as St. John’s Bread. The word carob itself comes from Middle French carobe which is borrowed from Arabic kharrūb, which means locust bean pod.

A humble pod, carob has a multitude of uses and is packed with calcium, sucrose, protein and a variety of vitamins and minerals. Processed carob is fairly expensive in central Europe as it is valued for its many qualities. This is ironic when in Malta we see them fall on the floor by the kilo or fed to animals as fodder. In Cyprus, up until the 1940s, carob was a major agricultural export. To such an extent that it was known as ‘the black gold of Cyprus’. In Malta, our associations with carob lie predominantly with Karamelli, those delightful Lenten loopholes, and Gulep tal-Harrub, our cough cure-all. But the culinary uses of carob reach far beyond. The dried pods can be ground into flour and used in all manner of baked goods like brownies and crackers, for making liqueurs, compotes, refreshing drinks such as in Turkey and Portugal and as a rough substitute for coffee and cocoa. Carob pulp was among the first crops used to produce industrial alcohol by fermentation in several Mediterranean countries and fermented carob pods can contain alcohol of up to 25%.

But a carob tree’s uses go far beyond tasty treats. Carob seeds contain up to 35% gum referred to as Lotus Bean Gum or LBG. It is also noted on products as E410 and is a natural stabilising agent in food especially ice cream and baby foods. Moreover, it is used in the manufacture of adhesives, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, detergents, paint, ink, shoe polish, in the textile industry, in photographic paper, insecticides and match heads! It is also used in the tanning of leather. Ancient Egyptians used to use the gummy properties of carob as an adhesive in binding mummies and the pods and seeds have been found in Egyptian tombs! Medicinal Marvel… Carob tannins contain Gallic acid that works in a wonder of ways. It potentially acts as an analgesic, anti-allergic, antibacterial, antioxidant, antiviral and antiseptic! Not only that, it has been said to improve digestion, lower cholesterol levels in the blood and is often used for treating bowel disorders in children and adults alike. Since it does not contain caffeine, carob is more beneficial than coffee for people with high blood pressure. It doesn’t stop there…The vitamin E content in carob helps in treating cough, flu and anaemia while the Gallic acid is said to help in preventing and treating polio in children. Carob helps fight against osteoporosis due to its richness in phosphorus and calcium, containing 3 times more calcium than milk! Carob is also used to help diabetes, prediabetes, persistent heartburn, obesity, and high cholesterol, but there is no hard and fast scientific evidence to support these uses. 021


#seasonal

Is Carob Healthier than Chocolate? The Carob is often touted as the healthier alternative to chocolate and an easy substitute. Although it does carry some benefits as it doesn’t contain caffeine and has a lower percentage of fat, carob contains a higher sugar content than cacao. Be wary that when purchasing carob in any form of bar the chances are it has been mixed with added fats and sugars to make it more appealing, thus negating any calorific benefits. When baking with carob, bake at a slightly lower temperature as carob burns more easily.

The Weird and the Wonderful… Many used to believe that carrying around carob beans would guard against evil or bolster your health, stringing beads together as necklaces or belts. On the other hand, others would warn against taking a nap under the welcoming shade of the carob tree for fear it will cause nightmares.

Did you know?

1 In WW2 food was so scarce on the Maltese Islands that eating carob pods saved the population from near starvation. In times of scarcity they were dried and ground into flour to make bread and would fetch a penny a pod when times were bad.

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2 The oldest Carob tree in Malta is 1,000 years old and found in Xemxija on the Old Roman path by the apiaries.

3 The word carat, used for the measurement of gold is a corruption of the ancient Greek word for carob seeds, Keration. In ancient times carob seeds were used as a measure for precious metals and stones. So much so that the Roman gold coin Solidus weighed as much as 24 carob seeds. Therefore, 24-karat gold means ‘pure gold’.

NANNU’S HOME MADE CAROB SYRUP Recipe courtesy of Hilton chef Andre Spiteri Ingredients: 500g Carob pods Granulated sugar 1ltr water 3 whole cloves ½ lemon zest Handful of wild Local thyme bay leaf Method: Roast the Carob pods in the oven at 170 degrees C for 45 mins to 1 hour. Soak in the water for 24hrs. Bring the carob pods and water to the boil. When fully soft remove from heat and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Measure the amount of liquid. The ratio of sugar to liquid should be 500g sugar for every litre of liquid so adjust accordingly. Bring the liquid to the boil and add the sugar, cloves, lemon zest, thyme, and bay leaf until it reaches 108 degrees C. Pass the liquid through a sieve to remove any unwanted pieces from the cooking process. Allow to cool and transfer to a sterilised jar and store it in a cool dark place.



#In the know

Keith Abela from Natural Preserves reveals the beauty and role of microbes in fermented foods.

THE SECRET LIFE

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he word fermented has surfaced as a bit of a buzz word of late. It’s having its time under the spotlight as the new food fad. But what truly is fermentation and is it really that new? What is the science behind it? Its uses? And ultimately, is it really that good for us?

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Cheese Mites under microscope

of Micro Organisms

Fermentation is all around us and has been for an incredibly long time. We have the process of fermentation to thank for some of our favourite foods and drinks and it takes on so many different forms. Your yoghurt for breakfast? You have a family of bacteria known as Lactobacillus to thank for that. Lactobacillus bacteria eat away at the lactose in the milk, thickening it and turning those sugars into lactic acid, thereby preserving the milk for a longer period than regular milk. Your ham, cheese, and pickle sandwich for lunch? Let’s take a moment to break

it apart. Your bread gets its fluffy texture and flavour from a hard-working little fungus called Saccharomyces Cerevisiae more commonly known as baker’s yeast. Yeast slowly digests the natural sugars and fiber found in the flour. This process produces a mixture of carbon dioxide and alcoholic compounds. The alcohol compounds give the bread a floral, almost sweet note, while during baking, the slightly bitter carbon dioxide becomes trapped in the complex gluten network giving the bread its light texture. >>


#In the know called Acetobacter. Acetobacter eats away at the alcohol in cider or wine and creates acetic acid commonly known as vinegar, an amazing natural preservative. Fermentation is also responsible for making the inedible delicious! Capers and olives are transformed by a brine fermentation. The fermentation process and the salt reduce bitter taste compounds found in their raw form and transforms them into delicious and nutritious flavour bombs. Fermentation removes deadly cyanide from yucca root making it safe to eat. Any live fermented food and drink product increases your natural gut flora and makes some vitamins more readily available.

..."The fungi create a root like system known as hyphae which eat away at the proteins and sugars in the cheese creating loads of new flavour molecules"... Now, for the cheese and butter. Yep! Our little bacterial friends from the Lactobacillus genus are at it again. These bacteria give your butter its tang, richness, and complex floral, buttery notes, whilst also creating acidity in the cheese. Fungi also have a huge role to play in the making of your cheese. Fungi attach themselves to the outside of the cheese. From there they create a root like system known as hyphae which eat away at the proteins and sugars in the cheese creating loads of new flavour molecules. It’s two different Penicillium varieties that give us the contrasting pepperiness of Stilton and the rich creaminess in Brie.

Finally, those deliciously tangy pickles. If you take baby cucumbers, completely submerge them in water along with salt, dill and a few spices, give it a good mix and leave them to sit for a week or two, in a cool, dark room they will ferment into pickles. The salt limits bad bacterial or mold growth in the brine while allowing good lactic and malic acid-producing bacteria to live. These bacteria will then eat away at sugars in the cucumber creating gas and acid. The acid the good bacteria form will preserve the cucumbers whilst creating an environment so acidic that molds and bad bacteria are unable to form.

The prosciutto in that sandwich is a result of a combination of bacterial cultures and molds. Aspergillus is one mold that slowly consumes the water and proteins in the hanging pork leg, drying it out, eventually creating glutamic acid (yes, that dreaded MSG you heard about), and tons of new flavour compounds that make aged hams so tasty!

Your wine and beer are also created with the help of yeast that eat sugars and create alcohol which kills harmful bacteria. Kombucha, a drink currently gaining immensely in popularity is made by a symbiotic community of bacteria and yeast or SCOBY in short. And the vinegar you add to your vinaigrette? That’s possible thanks to a family of bacteria

Without fermentation we wouldn’t have chocolate! Cacao beans serve little purpose without being fermented and are naturally bitter and flavourless. However, during the fermentation process something magical happens. Acetic acid forming bacteria digest the gelatinous outer pulp creating vinegar. This, in turn breaks the cacao bean, reduces its bitterness and creates thousands of new flavour molecules and nutrients. So next time you grab a bottle of soy sauce, some bread, wine, beer, ham, cheese, chocolate, coffee, tea, sauerkraut, or vinegar stop and thank our little bacterial and fungal friends for preserving our food and making our lives that much more interesting!

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Bakers yeast)

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#eating out

EYE ON THE PRIZE At ION – The Harbour

‘Mark made it very clear from the start that it would be an operation with international standards. I knew that whatever I saw outside Malta, in fine dining restaurants, I had to make happen here. It wasn’t just a dream anymore. ’But Andrew explains that fine dining does not immediately denote stuffiness. ‘What we are trying to achieve at ION is that eating out should be a chance to relax, to actually have fun. It is the job of the food and the wine list to be serious and not the job of the guest.’ On this vein I ask him about his views on Michelin coming to Malta and if he has any aspirations for one at ION. His view is that any guide does good, even ones that have been criticised, like Michelin or the San Pellegrino list. He continues that guides foster a sense of quality that discourages mediocrity, they set the bar for restaurants to push themselves to do better, and that is never a bad thing. He is clear to stress that Michelin goes beyond the food and considers the whole experience, it is never just about the chef. On a similar note, when I ask Andrew what he thinks of the current restaurant scene in Malta and whether it has caught up with the rest of the culinary scene in Europe he tells me he thinks ‘change has definitely happened, for the positive. Growth was on its way, but it is naturally going to slow for another year, which is unfortunate.’ Never one to mince his words, Andrew goes on to explain that his ‘belief is, that now it is a game of survival of the fittest. Those who are strong and who innovate will continue, those who are mediocre, won’t. Greater things will come with this sense of competition.’

Debbie Schembri catches up with Executive Chef of ION- The Harbour, Andrew Borg, to talk inspiration, techniques, and the local food scene. ION, the reference alluding to a charged atom, is not lost on diners and Andrew Borg, full of energy, never idle or one to 026

shy away from a challenge, was the natural fit to run the kitchen. Andrew, although confident in his abilities as a chef never dreamed that one of his regulars at The Black Pig and Risette, Mark Weingard, would eventually snatch him up to head his latest luxury offering in Valletta; INIALA Harbour House.

We naturally, swiftly turn to the topic of food and the inspiration behind the dishes on the menu. I wanted to know whether the surroundings and the beautiful architecture and décor help to inspire the food. He laughs and says that ‘we have to compete with the view. When I look out, it makes me think that the place is befitting of something extra special. It is seriously inspiring.’ I’m curious about his thoughts about the quality of ingredients in Malta and whether he looks locally for starting points. ‘I think diners and restaurants alike tend to romanticise the idea of local.’ It is not that he disregards local produce. On the contrary, he is always seeking out


#eating out

new farmers with interesting ingredients, but for an operation of this size, that vitally requires consistency. ‘There just isn’t always enough of certain ingredients as things are limited.’ ‘The priority is always to start at home’ but he is only interested if something tastes good. ‘So, if something local doesn’t taste good then there is no point in using it. If there is something good locally, then of course I will use it, for example the Mgarr raspberries, which are scarce but beautiful.’ But he goes on to say that the reality is that there are various elements at play such as the reliability of the supply chain or the perception of what customers expect, that effect the use of local ingredients. On this point he says he would love to use more local beef, and in fact, his head chef’s father works at the abattoir and always notifies them when a handsome cow is about to be slaughtered. ‘The problem is that one cow produces a limited number of portions, say 20, and then it’s gone.’ It might also not be what customers are expecting of a piece of beef as not all breeds offer the type of marbling that clients are used to. He will also only buy produce when it is in season. ‘For example, now we may get a short crop of fresh peas and broad beans and we are currently using lots of citrus as it is plentiful. But on another note diners expect variety and don’t always want to eat the same ingredient which is why I source from outside to add interest and excitement for guests.’ Of course, I have to ask Andrew what his favourite dishes are on the menu. He laughs as he says he usually likes to change things frequently but being such a big operation with a capacity of almost 100 covers for breakfast, brunch, lunch

and dinner services, and a small team, it is impossible to constantly change dishes. But, if he had to choose, he reveals it would be the confit of potato with leek and smoked eel, N25 Baerii caviar, continuing jokingly that he has eaten mountains of trimmings since it went on the menu. He says his other favourite is probably one of the simplest; the BBQ Octopus with XO sauce and cevennes onion. They make the XO sauce in house but stray from the classic ingredients when making it. They use dried octopus trimming instead of the traditional scallop, which gives less funk to the sauce and include jamon offcuts, which, despite jumping cultures, creates a universal flavour that marries spectacularly with the octopus. The mention of XO sauce leads me to my next question about seasonings. During his time at The Black Pig Andrew used to use Asian seasonings to add depth and contrast to dishes but they rarely used to be mentioned on the menus, to avoid confusion and labelling. However, at ION- The Harbour they have evidently become more prominent. ‘Before I used to be wary of the way that the restaurant would be labelled, but now I believe that if something enhances a dish then it should be mentioned. I don’t like buzz words and won’t use a particular technique or mention it just to attract attention. If it enhances a dish, then that is why I am using it. The bottom line is it has to taste great.’ We continue on this point whilst discussing fermentation. Andrew explains that they don’t ferment in house not just because of limited space, but because he doesn’t feel like we are currently living in a time when fermenting things because winter is coming is a necessity. Although they use

fermented elements in the kitchen the focus is having something fermented on the menu only if it tastes good and makes sense. ‘For example, we may choose to quick pickle something rather than use a version of it that is lacto- fermented because we prefer the flavour and the texture of the former. With dishes it is all about what works and not what sounds best.’ When I ask Andrew about his thoughts about using established techniques from the past to flavour dishes of the present we launch into a compelling conversation. He explains that he is always reading older books like Larousse Gastronomique or books by Escoffier because there is a reason why they are classics. ‘I also love researching old local recipes. The other day I was reading that drinking chocolate in Malta was present as early as the 17th century. I found this fascinating and it has inspired me to potentially use a similar sort of chocolate in one of the new dishes.’ It excites him to discover the past but he is quick to say that the importance is capturing the essence of a traditional dish and if that if it can be done using contemporary methods that are more efficient and that produce a better flavour then they should be embraced. However, he is very wary of the term ‘traditional’ saying it is very difficult to draw lines around what is strictly traditional and that he would rather present honest food, stripped of decorative words. By the end of the conversation I am already scanning my diary to see when I can find an evening to treat myself at ION- The Harbour and continue our chat. Never one to sugar coat what he thinks or temper his strong ideas I have no doubt that Andrew Borg will keep pushing for greatness at ION. 027


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BA L BUL JATA TACO RE CI P E BY CH EF SA M DEG A ETA NO Recip e P. 2 4

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Recipe by chef Alison Azzopardi Serves: 4 Start to finish: 30 minutes

Apple and Carob Jam

Ingredients:

Ingredients:

Panettone, 4 slices Salted butter, 75g, softened Eggs, 5 large Milk, 4 tbsp Apples, 2, peeled and cut into 1/8ths Castor sugar, 2 tbsp. Apple and Carob Jam, 4 generous tbsp. Icing sugar, for dusting Vanilla ice cream, to serve (optional)

Maltese ta’Beludja or Granny Smith apples, 3 Sugar, 2.5 cups Carob pods, 5, crushed (use a rolling pin or heavy spoon to gently crack

Meanwhile, prepare the apples. Melt the butter over a medium to high heat in a frying pan and fry the apples on both sides until they’re soft but not collapsing, around 5-6 mins. Add the sugar and toss the apples until they slightly brown and caramelised at the edges. Remove from the heat. Fry the panettone in a large frying pan with the remaining butter, for 2-3 mins on each side until golden and cooked through. Dust the bread with icing sugar and serve with the apples, a large spoonful of the jam and the ice cream if using.

open the pods)

2 lemons, juiced and divided in half Method: Fill a large bowl with cold water and add the juice of 1 lemon. Peel, core, and quarter the apples and add them to the lemon water as you work. Remove the apples from the water (discarding the water) and finely dice them. Add the apples to a heavy bottomed pot, along with the sugar, carob pods, (and any seeds that have escaped) and the juice of the other lemon. Stir well, and then bring to a boil. Boil, uncovered and stirring often, for about 30-40 minutes until thickened. About halfway through the cooking you can use an immersion blender to mash up some of the apple. Take care not to splash yourself with the boiling hot jam. This is optional and depends on what texture you want your jam to have, and how large or small you chopped your apples in the first place. Ladle the finished jam into clean (sterilized) jars, cover tightly, and let cool before refrigerating.

Plate – camilleriparismode

Method: Whisk the eggs in a baking dish with the milk. Add the panettone, turning them over in the eggs, and let them sit until soft but not falling apart.

Yield: 500mls – Start to finish: 1 hour

PANETTONE, PAIN PERDU WITH Carob

and Maltese Apple Jam

A

treat of a breakfast or dessert! If you thought French toast couldn’t get any tastier, it can. We replace regular brioche with Panettone, which you will inevitably have mountains of. Paired with a jam made from delicious Maltese ta’ Beludja apples, sweetened with Carob this one will have you coming back for seconds, and thirds….and fourths?

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<< P R E P T I M E 60 M I N S ERV E S 8

Citrus and Gin Cured Salmon with Potato Rosti and Poached Egg

B Y C H E F AL ISO N A Z ZO PAR D I

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FEATURED ON PAGE 31

CITRUS AND GIN CURED SALMON WITH POTATO ROSTI AND POACHED EGG Recipe: chef Alison Azzopardi Serves: 4 Start to finish: 1 hour + 48 hrs for the curing

Cured Salmon Centre-cut salmon fillet, 300g, skin on, bones removed Caster sugar, 70-90g Coarse sea salt, 70-90g Gin, 2 tbsp Freshly ground pepper, 2 tsp. Chopped fresh dill, 1 small bunch Lemon, zest of whole, juice of half Orange, zest of whole, juice of half Potato Rosti Waxy potatoes, 2 medium-sized, peeled Butter, 1 tbsp Goose fat or sunflower oil, 1 tbsp To serve Eggs, 4, very fresh Method: To cure the salmon, mix the sugar, salt, alcohol, pepper, zest, juice and dill. Place half of the mixture in a container that will accommodate the fish snugly. Lay the salmon on top of this, fleshside down, press it down, then cover with the other half of the mixture, smearing it well over the surface of the fish. Secure with a lid or cling film and leave to chill in the fridge for 48 hours, turning the fish occasionally, until firm to the touch.Carefully rinse the fish under cold running water, but not so much that no remnants of dill remain. Dry with kitchen paper. Slice thinly on a bias.For the rosti, parboil the potatoes in salted water until just tender, but not soft. Allow to cool, and chill for at least a couple of hours. 034

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Coarsely grate the potatoes and season. Heat half the fat or oil in a small, heavy-based frying pan until sizzling, and then add the grated potato, allow to cook for a couple of minutes on a med to low heat and then shape it into a flat cake, pressing down as lightly as possible. Allow to cook for a couple of minutes, then gently shake the pan to loosen the potato. Continue to cook for about 10 minutes until golden and crisp, then place a plate on top of the pan and invert it so the cake sits, cooked side up, on the plate. Add the rest of goose fat or oil to the pan and, when hot, slide the potato cake back into the pan the other way up. Cook for another 10 minutes. For the poached egg crack your egg into a bowl or onto a saucer, this makes it easier to slide into the pan. Bring a pan of water filled at least 5cm deep to a simmer and add a drop of vinegar to the water in the pan. Don’t add any salt as this may break up the egg white. Stir the water to create a gentle whirlpool to help the egg white wrap around the yolk. Slowly tip the egg into the centre. Make sure the heat is low enough not to throw the egg around, there should only be small bubbles rising. Cook for 3minutes or until the white is set. The egg usually floats when ready. Lift the egg out with a slotted spoon and drain it on kitchen paper and season with salt. Serve the cured salmon on top of the rosti and top with a poached egg. Thinly slice the gravadlax at an angle and present on a large serving dish. Serve on top of the rosti and under the poached egg.

BALBULJATA TACO Recipe: chef Sam Degaetano Serves: 4 Start to finish: 1 hr

Red cabbage leaves, 4 Eggs, 4 Medium sized tomatoes, 4, finely chopped Medium sweet potato, 1, finely chopped Medium sized onion, 1, finely chopped Beech mushrooms, whole, 1 cup (or any other small mushrooms,)

Mixed pickled vegetables, ½ cup Aubergine, 1, large Garlic, 2 cloves Spring onions, 2 small, finely chopped Light soy sauce, 1 tbsp. Harissa paste, ½ tsp. Olive oil, 1 tbsp. Tahini, 1 tsp. Lemon juice, 1 tsp. Smoked paprika, to taste Salt and pepper as needed Micro greens to garnish Method: Organise the prep for this meal by starting with the cabbage tacos, followed by the Babaganoush and finally the Balbuljata mixture.

Begin by peeling off 4 cabbage leaves from the whole cabbage nice and slowly and set aside. To make the Babaganoush preheat the oven to 180 degrees C and roast the aubergine for about 30 to 40 minutes, or until it is soft and collapses to the touch. Remove from the oven and set aside. Once

cooled, use a spoon to scrape the flesh away from the skin, trying to get as much of the dark peripheries as possible. Remove any big clumps of seeds. Place the aubergine flesh, tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, pinch of smoked paprika and salt in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Place in a bowl and set aside. For the Balbuljata whisk the 4 eggs in a small bowl and set aside. In a medium pan heat the oil and sauté the onions until lightly brown. Add a pinch of salt and harissa paste. Follow with the chopped sweet potato and cook for about 5mins or until they start to soften. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, and light soy sauce, cooking for about 3-4 more minutes. Whisk in the eggs and cook for another 3 minutes, stirring constantly and until moist. Add more salt and a pinch of paprika. Remove from the heat and cover with a lid and set aside. To plate place a large tablespoon of Babaganoush in the centre and set a cabbage leaf firmly on top. Spoon the Balbuljata mixture in the center of the cabbage leaf garnishing with a teaspoon of pickled vegetables, spring onions and micro greens.


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For whipped carob butter: Whole,unsalted butter, 150g Carob syrup, 100g Fleur de sel or other crunchy salt, ½ tsp Method: Cut the pears in half lengthwise and coat with olive oil and a light sprinkling of salt. Lay them face down in a heat resistant pan or baking dish lined with baking paper and drizzle lightly with carob syrup. Place into an oven set to 150 degrees C and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour depending on how ripe the fruit is. Slightly firmer fruit will bake better. he non-carob infused version of these pancakes are one of my favourite breakfast recipes. By whipping the egg whites separately in addition to using a combination of baking soda and buttermilk for lift, these pancakes always come out ultra fluffy and delicious. You can even make large batches of the dry mix in advance and mix it up with the eggs, butter and buttermilk whenever you feel like something special for breakfast! The addition of the carob flour gives the pancakes loads of flavour and a beautiful brown hue. Ingredients: Pancake Dry Mix All-purpose flour, 160g Carob flour (replace with all-purpose if you prefer), 80g. Supplied by Good Earth Baking powder, 1 tsp Baking soda, ½ tsp Salt, 1 tsp Granulated sugar, 2 tsp For pancake wet mix: Eggs, 2 Buttermilk, 570g Melted butter, 50g Roasted Pears Pears, 2, split in half lengthways Olive oil, salt and carob syrup to taste 036

For the whipped butter, simply combine room temperature butter with the carob syrup using an electric whisk or some elbow grease. Whip until lighter in colour and consistency, roughly 3-4 minutes. For the pancakes sift the pancake dry mix ingredients into a mixing bowl. Seperate the eggs into a large mixing bowl for the egg whites and a separate bowl for the yolks with enough space to add the buttermilk. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. Combine the buttermilk with the egg yolks and melted butter and combine this with the dry mixture. Fold in the egg whites until the batter just comes together. Place a non-stick pan over medium heat and add a small knob of butter. Add the batter to the pan to create small pancakes of about 3 heaped tablespoons of mixture without crowding the pan. Once these begin to bubble, flip them over until nicely browned on both sides. You can lay these out onto a baking tray and leave them in a low oven until you are done with the entire batch. Serve together with a light drizzle of carob syrup.

Recipe by chef Stephen la Rosa Serves: 4 Start to finish: 1 hr + 15 min

FLUFFY CAROB PANCAKES WITH ROASTED PEARS AND WHIPPED CAROB BUTTER


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yum m y

ke

pan ca

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LI G HT BIT ES + SIDES Ingredients: Floury potatoes, 1 kg, sliced into thin slices, about 3mm Garlic cloves, 3–4, grated Cream, 500ml, you may need a bit extra Salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed

Method: Preheat the oven to 160 degrees C. Place the potato slices and grated garlic in a bowl and season to taste. Pour over the cream and mix well. Pour into a large gratin dish reserving a handful of potatoes. Press the potato down with the back of a spoon or your hands so it forms a solid layer and place the remaining slices in an overlapping manner to make an attractive pattern. The cream should come to just below the top layer of potato, top up with more double cream if necessary. Bake for 1-1½ hours, or until the potatoes are completely tender.

LAUGHTER IS BRIGHTEST IN THE PLACE WHERE THE FOOD IS. 038


DAU P H I N O I S E P OTATO E S

P RE P TIM E : 1 H R 30 M I N S E RV E S: 6

RE C IP E B Y C H E F

A L I SO N AZZO PAR D I

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Ingredients: Beef bone taken from the leg, 1 x 10-15cm, cut in half lengthwise Breadcrumbs, 4 tbsp Thick slices of Maltese bread, 2 Shallots, 1-2, finely diced Capers, 2 tbsp, chopped Parsley, 2 tbsp, chopped Sherry vinegar, 200mls Caster sugar, 1 tbsp Salt and pepper as needed S E RV E S: 2

Method: The day before pickle the shallots with the vinegar, sugar and a little salt. Bring a pan, that is big enough to snuggly fit the bone, with water seasoned with 1 tablespoon of salt to the boil. Lower the heat and poach the bone marrow for 7-8 mins, or until the marrow comes away from the bone easily. Remove from the water and place on a tray. Sprinkle breadcrumbs on top and bake for 8-10 mins at 180 degrees C, until crumbs are golden brown. Meanwhile, toast the bread, take the shallots out of the pickling liquid and mix with the capers and parsley. Serve with pickles, toast and salt.

P RE P TIM E : 25 M IN

B AKE D B O N E M A RRO W WITH P I C K L E S & TOA ST

RE C IP E B Y C H E F A LI SON A Z ZO PAR D I

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Wild Camping in – A Georgian Feast KIERAN CREEVY AND LISA PAARVIO BECOME IMMERSED IN THE ICY LANDSCAPE OF GEORGIA BUT ARE SUSTAINED BY THE WARMTH OF THE PEOPLE WHO INSPIRE THEM TO COOK DISHES THAT SPEAK OF AN IMMOVEABLE RESILIENCE AND TIMELESS COMFORT.

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Kazbegi Caucasus

T

he Lada Niva’s engine whines in protest as the rev counter approaches the redline. Tyres squirm for grip in the loose snow. Vasil, our driver, calmly smooths out the drift and slingshots his car into the next hairpin bend. High in the Kazbegi Caucasus, Lisa and I have packs loaded with food, equipment and camera gear ready for a multi-day snowshoe and wild camping adventure. A few days earlier, we met Vasil by chance. It was one of those unexpected meetings that expands your knowledge and alters your world view. We got a detailed insight into decades of hard-won local information. We were gifted intel on which market to find the best pickles, fresh vegetables, strained yoghurt, and local specialties like dried sour plums and walnuts - an integral element in many Georgian dishes. >>

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One market made us pause. From the outside, the ramshackle, faded facade spoke of a store long past its heyday. However, its dimly lit interior revealed a trove of wonders; fruit leather with a mouth puckering sourness, tangy cheeses, wild herb medleys, delicate beetroots, and pungent onions with a green-white hue. The market visit also pulls into sharp focus the division of labour in this area. On our hike into town there were no women on the road, only men. All the taxis and tourist agencies are operated by men. Yet inside the market, in cafes and in restaurants the staff are almost universally women. It’s as though we are transported decades back. After a dinner of local specialties in one of the small restaurants, Vasil drives us back to our base for the week. The next morning, we shoulder our packs early and head down a snow-covered road, scoping out potential trails. Within the first ten minutes we have had four offers of lifts from local drivers, curious as to what we’re doing out this early with laden packs. On the fifth offer, our resistance crumbles and we gratefully accept a lift down the road to the appropriately named Sno village. Thanking our driver, I offer him a ten lari note. His response is a swift ‘I’m not a taxi’. Fearing I’ve made a faux pas, I look to see if he’s annoyed, but the beaming smile is its own answer. This generosity of spirit is present in nearly every Georgian we meet throughout our trip.

Our entrance into Sno is across an off-kilter suspension bridge with some planks missing completely. Once traversed we find a village almost in hibernation mode. Doors and windows are closed and shuttered, though snatches of laughter reveal life within. Gardens with old style haystacks and greenhouses with broken panes. Rusted trucks without windows and rubber tyres, long since cracked and degraded in the deep cold. Eventually we’re on the correct track to the trailhead. Once on the mountain, we can begin to make sense of the landscape and terrain. A multi-day itinerary starts to take shape in our minds. In this deep cold we will need to find a water source at some point, otherwise we will be melting snow for hours. Heading home for the night, we’re already excited for the adventure ahead and mentally planning what to pack. We won’t be eating freeze dried meals on this trip, only Georgian inspired dinners and breakfasts. Food canisters, silicone pouches and drybags will be packed with food for three days. The next morning comes all too early. We briefly question our respective career paths, but the magnetic pull of new mountains is all the incentive we need to walk out of the door into the biting, dark morning. One wild ride up a twisting mountain road in Vasil’s rattling Lada Niva to our drop off point, and we’re alone! >>

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Just us and an amphitheatre of peaks, radiant under starlight. Shafts of gold break the horizon and we pause for morning tea and fresh bread. We head deeper into the hills on worn goat trails. Our snowshoes and ice axes still packed. Although we’re almost at 3,000 metres and it’s minus twenty, the snow is sparse and patchy. We eventually encounter the first signs of habitation in this wild corner of Georgia. A ruin of a shrine, its stones worn smooth with centuries of age. Late in the day, we chance upon a perfect spot for our first camp. Amid setting up camp my stomach growls signaling it’s time to make dinner; chicken Satsivi soup. Our bellies sated and warmed we fall asleep to the deep silence of remote winter peaks cocooned in layers of silk and down. Our winter adventure on this vast mountain speeds by all too fast. Days pass in a kaleidoscope of sensory wonders; the smell of snow

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on the wind, moonlight glinting off shards of ice as though the ground is carpeted in diamonds, a dense forest hiding a stone fortress, hot spiced soup, and the joy of travelling in the wilderness with a close and trusted friend. As we begin to meander back home, we prolong the return to civilisation with one more mountain lunch of Lobio with Mchadi; a hearty red pepper, bean and onion stew with cornbread. Whether it caught scent of our meal or it is in search of company, lunch is suddenly interrupted by a wild street dog. It approaches us relaxed and at ease. Lying down, it seems content, but with the expectant air of one hoping for some food in the future. Our time in Georgia has left us astounded by the sheer number of friendly, semi wild dogs that we have encountered. Not one has approached us with menace and suggests that locals treat them with respect and human kindness.

Kazbegi Caucasus throws us a last curve ball. The track we were on disappears with no warning. Far ahead we can see the continuation of the track, and a kilometre away, our home. In between: a wide river! Backtracking will take us a few hours so we decide to scout the bank, hoping for stepping stones or a narrow stretch over which we can jump. No joy. Just as we’ve made the decision to turn back, Lisa spots a possible ford. Assessing the speed and depth of the flow, we’re in luck. It’s safe. Splashing our way across we finally emerge and almost immediately the hems of our trousers freeze into board like stiffness. Bone tired and wet we may be, but the enchantment has struck us hard. We’re in the thrall of this magnificent landscape and its people. Thank you Georgia! Georgian Caucasus Menu… with handy tips and instructions for cooking whilst camping! >>

After lunch, as though loath to let us escape its enchantment, the

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#BITES/SIDES

1 tsp dried tarragon 50g butter (wrapped) Sea salt Equipment: Camping stove and pot Bamboo chopping board Knife Airtight container Insulated bottle Insulated airtight coffee mug Wooden spoons Insulated bowl / mug - to serve

LOBIO WITH MCHADI (RED BEAN, PEPPER, ONION, AND HERB STEW WITH CORNBREAD) Recipe by Kieren Creevy Serves: 2

Ingredients: 2 cups dried red kidney beans, – soaked in water overnight 1 white onion, finely sliced 1 green pepper, roughly diced 1 cup flat parsley, roughly chopped 1 vegetable stock cube, crumbled 1 tsp white pepper 1/2 tsp dried fennel powder 1/2 tsp black cumin powder 1/2 tsp coriander powder Water Salt - to taste 1 tbsp butter or ghee. For the Mchadi: Cornflour, finely ground 2 eggs 2 tsp sea salt 1 tsp chili flakes 1 cup hard white cheese (cut into fine cubes.) 2 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil. Water Extra cornflour for dusting Equipment you'll need: Camping stove, pump and fuel bottle. Ceramic pot and skillet Wooden spoon and spatula Silicone dry bag - to knead and store the dough.

Method: First make the cornbread. Mix together the cornflour, spices, salt, eggs and oil. Then add in the cheese and a little water at a time. Knead until you have a smooth dough. Store in a silicone drybag or reusable container. Light the stove and when burning correctly reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the butter/ghee and when gently sizzling add the onion, pepper and spices. Cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the bean mix, stir well and add enough water to cover completely. Increase the heat to full, cover with the pot lid and bring to a boil. Reduce heat slightly, cook for 20 minutes or until the beans are soft, adding more water if necessary. Taste and season with salt if needed. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Place the skillet on the stove, reduce the heat to medium/high. Break off a golf ball size lump of dough, roll in between your hands until smooth and flatten. Dust with a little cornflour and place in the skillet. There is space in the skillet for 2-4 breads, depending on size. Dry fry for a few minutes on both sides until cooked through and the cheese starts to ooze out. Serve the bean stew in an insulated container with some bread.

CHICKEN SATSIVI SOUP – WINTER CAMP VERSION Recipe by Kieren Creevy Serves: 2

Ingredients Cooked meat from thighs and one breast of chicken (Slow cook in the oven and when cold pull the meat apart with forks or your hands)

1 cup walnuts, smashed to fine chunks/powder 1 cup coriander leaf 1 cup parsley leaf 4 cloves garlic 1/2 onion 1 glass white wine 1 cup sour cream 2-3 cups water (depending on how thick you like your soup) 1 chicken stock cube, crumbled 1 tsp ground black pepper 1 tsp hot paprika

Method: Cooking in camp: Put the pulled chicken into an airtight container, and chill in the fridge overnight. Use this to transport to camp. Mix the wine and sour cream together and transport in a leakproof coffee mug. Fill your bottle with water. Place the spices, stock cube and walnuts in a small reusable container. Place the herbs, onion and garlic and butter in another reusable container. Hike to your chosen lunch spot, or overnight camp. In camp, finely chop the herbs, garlic and onion. Heat the pot, add butter and foam gently. Add the onion, garlic, herbs and spice/ walnut mix; cook for 2 minutes. Add the wine, sour cream and water, bring to a simmer. Add the shredded chicken and cook for 15 minutes minimum. If you have the time and fuel, cook for longer as the flavours will intensify. Taste and season if needed. Serve in the insulated bowls or mugs. Dig in!

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ST U F F E D C H E E SY C EN TI N A RJA

S E RV E S 2 – P R E P T IM E

4 5 M I N B Y C H E F D E B B IE S C HEM B R I

Ingredients: Centinarja, 1 Garlic, 1 small clove, grated Parsley, 4 sprigs finely chopped Rosemary, 1 sprig finely chopped Mozzarella, half a ball shredded Peppered ġbejna, half, grated Stale bread, 2 slices Olive oil, as needed Salt, as needed Method: Preheat the oven to 190 degrees C. Place the centinarja in a small pot and cover with water till just covered. Season with a big pinch of salt and set on a medium heat and boil for 15 minutes or until it feels tender when pricked with a fork. When done, drain and slice in half lengthways. Use a spoon to carefully scoop out the flesh leaving 2 cm thickness of skin. Discard the white centre stone and chop the scooped-out flesh. In a frying pan add a glug of olive oil and when hot add in the centinarja and the garlic. Cook out the raw taste of the garlic and remove from the heat. Combine with the herbs and mozzarella and season with salt if necessary. Crumble the stale bread into very coarse breadcrumbs and in small bowl mix in the ġbejna, a little salt and about 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place the empty centinarja halves on a baking tray. If they wobble cut off a little slice from the base, without piercing a hole, to steady them. Fill them equally with the flesh and mozzarella mixture and top with the bread and ġbejna mix. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes or until bubbling and golden.

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P R E P T I M E 1. 30 H R S S ERV E S 4

Bra ise d Fennel wi th Parmi gi ano Reggi an o

B Y C H E F A L ISO N A Z ZO PAR D I

Ingredients: Fennel bulbs, 750g, (trimmed and quartered, trimmings reserved) Butter, 50g Water, 6 tbsp. Grated Parmesan, (60g, + extra for serving) Salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed Method: Preheat the oven to 170 degrees C. Melt the butter in a casserole dish over a low heat. Place the fennel in the butter, and scatter around the trimmings. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and increase the heat. Add the water. Cover with a sheet of foil loosely pressed down on the vegetables, and put the lid on top. Place into the oven to cook for 30 minutes. Turn over the fennel, sprinkle with grated cheese and return to the oven to cook, uncovered, for a further 30 minutes, or until very tender when poked with a small, sharp knife. Serve with extra parmesan sprinkled over

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Too Pretty to Eat?

T

he guys at Upper foods, an Italian food market concept store, walk us through curating the perfect charcuterie and cheese platter. With Christmas around the corner and a festive sense in the air it is the perfect opportunity to spoil yourselves with some delectable treats. Beautiful products are befitting of serving pieces that will enhance them whilst also looking stylish. Served showcases artist Michela Mifsud of ClaybyMi who has created these beautiful serving boards to bring an extra touch of class to this sumptuous spread. Upper Food provides artisanal produce from quality sources and celebrates good food and wine as an integral part of life, to be savoured, not rushed. Entertaining doesn’t have to be tedious. It can be as simple as putting together some excellent products, sitting down and taking your time to enjoy the flavours, tastes and good company. Here are a few pointers towards achieving a perfectly designed Winter Italian Board that will take you minutes to put together, leaving you with plenty of time to savour it. We take a closer look at the artisanal products on the boards and their function in the spread. 052

Contrasting visuals: Inevitably, the first thing that attracts the eater before tucking in is the aesthetic of a plate. Create different heights by positioning cheese at various levels and twisting hams as you would style cloth. Break up similar colour tones either by placing them on opposing sections or splitting them up with other elements. Pick striking products like the bright red, fiery Calabrian Spianata Picante or the Pecorino al Pistachio di Bronte with its tantalising green coating. Choose products with interesting shapes like the Treccia di Mozzarella to immediately draw


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the eater in and charcuterie of different diameters. Keep it balanced: This starts by having a relatively equal selection of charcuterie to cheeses. But it also refers to the elements themselves. You want every reach into the board to be exciting and each corner eaten at a similar speed. This wouldn’t be the case if you picked 3 aged, hard cheeses and only one softer one. The softer cheese would disappear in minutes leaving a more monotonous selection that will slow the pace. Contrasting textures: Whether it is a platter or a salad that you are tucking into, the palette gets bored easily. It wants every bite to bring a little bit of excitement. This is easily done by choosing charcuterie and cheese that offers a variety of textures. In this platter for example the beautiful Pecorino Stagionato Nella Cenere from C’Era una Volta, is hard, full of delicious salt crystals that then melt on the tongue. This is in stark contrast to the much softer, creamy Taleggio or the medium-firm, yet crumbly Ricotta di Pecora Infornata.

rich taste. Equally, the Ricotta di Pecora Infornato and the Mozzarella, although both considered more as fresh cheeses in comparison to the others, are strikingly different. The ricotta, one of the ancient cheeses has a strong smell of whey and a noticeable underlying smoky flavour whereas the mozzarella is pure milky freshness. Add preserved elements: There is no need to go overboard with too many items, but a couple of preserved elements add welcome pockets of acidity that break up the richness of the charcuterie. Some good quality olives and something pickled, for example in this case caper berries refresh the palette inviting you to go in for more.

Add a sweet factor: On this board the Tin Tac-Cappa introduces a sweet element as well as a little taste of home. The sweet, dried figs pair tremendously well with the sharper cheeses like the Pecorino Stagionato and the Taleggio. There is also a reduced balsamic that works incredibly with the Treccia di Mozzarella. There are no hard and fast rules. Honey and dried fruits are frequently found on cheese boards. The emphasis should always be on the main products whilst the rest are supporting elements, so avoid crowding a board with a ton of dried or fresh fruit that overwhelms the products. You’ll hardly know where to start when choosing from the wide selection at Upper Foods but with these tips and their focused attention to quality you can’t go wrong!

Similarly, when it comes to the charcuterie the Salsiccia Secca has a much firmer texture than the Mortadella Tartufo. The Salami engages the mouth more whereas the Mortadella just melts. The Prosciutto di Parma, a staple on any platter for a reason, presents a happy middle ground. Any nuts will give a nice crunch contrast whereas the olives give squishy bursts of acidity to keep the palette guessing. Contrasting flavours: Believe it or not it is possible to get bored of even the most beautiful ham if there is nothing to compare it to. The unctuous flavours of the Mortadella Tartufo are starkly different to the seriously spicy Spianata Piccante. On this note, it is always good to leave the spicier elements for consumption at the end as they may mask the flavours of more delicate products. The young Pecorino al Pistachio di Bronte is sweet, fresh with strong flavours of milk which contrasts greatly with the aged Pecorino ripened in ash with its mature, 053


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Kitsch Christmas Canapes

W

e all have our guilty pleasures when it comes to food. There is no shame in admitting you’re a Prawn Cocktail fiend or a Devil’s Egg aficionado. Chef Debbie Schembri treats us to some party favourites with a few twists along the way to surprise your guests. The focus is both on memory and on flavour. Food to make you feel all fuzzy and nostalgic! All serving plates were supplied by Space For Clay

Prawn Cocktail Lettuce Cups Makes: 12 Prep time: 15 min Rossi prawns, 24 (medium, deshelled, and deveined) 12 leaves, Baby gem lettuce or, iceberg lettuce Ripe avocado, 1 cut into slices Tomato ketchup, 2 tbsp. Mayonnaise, 2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce, 2 dashes Tabasco, 2 dashes Lemon, thinly sliced & seeds removed Salt, as needed Method: Combine the ketchup, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, tabasco, and a small pinch of salt to make the Marie Rose sauce. Season the prawns and avocado with a small amount of salt. Place a slice of avocado on a lettuce cup, top with 2 prawns and a dollop of sauce. Garnish with a small piece of lemon. Rabbit Pasta Bites Makes: around 20 Prep time: 1.5 hrs Rabbit shoulders,2 Garlic cloves, 2, sliced Onion, half, diced Carrot, small, diced Bay leaf,2 Peppercorns,6 Kunserva, 1 tsp White wine, 100ml Tomato passata, 200ml Tinned peas, drained, ½ tin Tomato, 2, finely diced Tarja pasta, 200g Eggs, 3, whisked Salt, as needed Olive oil, as needed Method: Season the rabbit shoulders with salt and in a frying pan sear them in a little oil until they are a deep golden brown. Set aside. In a pan that fits the shoulders snuggly, add a drizzle of oil and place on a medium heat. Fry the garlic, onions, and carrot for 10 minutes until light golden and softened. Add the

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In the meantime, boil the pasta a little longer than you normally would. Drain and mix with the eggs and season with salt. Heat a large non-stick frying pan on a medium heat and add a light drizzle of oil. Make miniature pasta omelettes (froga tat-tarja) that are easy to eat in one bite, flipping each one when they are a pale golden. In a small bowl use a fork to mash the peas. Season with a little salt and olive oil and set aside. In another bowl season the chopped tomatoes with salt and set aside.

Method: Once the pasta is set cut it into cubes that can be eaten in around 2 bites. Roll out the puff pastry to a thickness of 1.5cm and cut into squares large enough that they can be wrapped round the entirety of the pasta cube. Set them on a tray lined with baking paper, hiding the seam at the bottom and slice a small slit at the top of each cube to let steam escape when baking. Place in the fridge to rest for half an hour. At this point you can freeze them on the tray and once frozen transfer to a box. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees C. Combine the egg with milk and season with salt. Brush the cubes with the egg mixture on every side, except the bottom. Bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until a rich golden brown and piping hot. Classic Ham Sandwich Makes: As many as needed Prep time: 10 min Sliced bread, crusts removed Quality smoked ham Salted butter, (room temperature) Dijon mustard Fresh tarragon, finely chopped

Assemble by spooning a small amount of the pea mixture onto a mini pasta omelette, followed by the rabbit, and top with the tomato.

Method: I think we have all made a sandwich before! The key is in the ratios. You want a thin layer of butter, not too much so that it tastes greasy, enough mustard to taste the heat but not overpower, enough tarragon to compliment but not overwhelm, and plenty of ham!

Timpana Bites

Devilled Eggs with Rizzi

Makes: As many as needed Prep time: 3 hrs + overnight time

Makes: 18 pieces Prep time: 15 min

1 batch of Imqarrun il-Forn,

Eggs, 9, hard boiled Kunserva, ½ tsp. Smoked paprika, Ÿ tsp Cayenne pepper, to taste Mayonnaise, 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard, ½ tsp.

(baked and cooled in the fridge overnight)

Puff pastry, 1Kg Egg yolks, 2, beaten Milk, 2 tbsp. Salt, as needed.

Fresh sea urchin, small tub Parsley, to garnish Salt, as needed Method: Halve the eggs lengthways and scoop the yolks into a bowl setting the whites aside. Use a fork to mash down the yolks and add the remaining ingredients except the sea urchin and parsley. Mix until a smooth paste is achieved. Add a few drops of water to loosen if it is too stiff. Use either a teaspoon or a piping bag to fill the egg cavities. Top each half with a piece of sea urchin, a very light sprinkling of paprika and a small amount of parsley. Hobz biz-Zejt Crostini Makes: As many as needed Prep time: 15 min Maltese bread, sliced, cut into 4x4 inch pieces Sundried tomato kunserva, as needed Good quality olive oil, as needed Marinated anchovies Good quality olives, quartered Fresh mint, small handful Salt, as needed Method: Drizzle the bread with a generous amount of oil and season with salt. Bake in an oven set at 180 degrees C for around 8 minutes or until crispy. Remove from the oven, allow to cool, and then assemble by spreading a small amount of kunserva, followed by one piece of anchovy, a couple of pieces of olives and a few mint leaves. Finish with another drizzle of oil.

Love it or hate it, the prawn cocktail is part of the Christmas memory of a generation of us. Here the main ingredients come together in a handy bitesize. Sad, cooked frozen prawns are replaced by raw Rossi prawns which makes every bite a delight!

Distributed by Francis Busuttil & Sons (Marketing) Ltd., tel +356 25497 000, www.fbsmarketing.com

kunserva and cook for another minute. Add the peppercorns, bay leaf, rabbit and wine and turn up the heat. Boil the wine until reduced by half and then add in the tomato passata. Stir and if the shoulders are not just covered top up with water. Season with salt and turn down the heat to simmer for an hour. Once the time has elapsed remove the rabbit pieces, discard the bay leaf and peppercorn and bring the remaining liquid to a boil and reduce to a few tablespoons. Once the shoulders have cooled a little carefully remove the meat from the bones and shred. Combine with a couple of tablespoons of the cooking liquid.

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THE FORMULA OF

EXCELLENCE Opening hours throughout the festive season Vini e Capricci shopping hours: Monday to Sunday | 9AM - 7PM (incl. Public Holidays) Vinoteca Livio Felluga and Cantina Michele Chiarlo: Monday to Sunday | 11:30AM - 3PM & 6:30PM - 10:30PM* *Kitchen closes at 9:30PM

Closed on the 25th December 2020 and 1st January 2021.

Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija, Gozo | T: (+356) 2156 3231 | E: viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt

www.viniecapricci.com


#BITES/SIDES Burnt Garlic Risotto with Local Snails and Salsa Verde By Vini e Capricci – Abraham's Serves: 4 – Prep time: 3 hrs Ingredients for the snails: 3kg snails 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 cup white wine 2 slices of guanciale, chopped Salsa verde Extra virgin olive oil Salt and freshly-ground pepper For burnt garlic: 1 garlic clove Salt and pepper, to taste 100ml extra-virgin olive oil Method: Begin by preparing the snails. To clean the snails, place them in a big container filled with water and sea salt, rinse and change water until it becomes clear. Boil them in water for 1hr 35minutes, let them cool, remove from the shells and clean the ends. To make the salsa verde place the parsley, basil, garlic and capers in a food processor. Process until finely chopped. With the motor running, add oil and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice to the parsley mixture. Process until well combined. Season with sea salt and pepper. Let it stand for 10 minutes before using. For the burnt garlic mix the garlic cloves with 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper and cook in the oven at 180 degrees C, until an intense golden brown. Take out, put in a food processor, add olive oil and blend until you have a thick paste. Begin making the risotto by heating the stock to a simmer. Lower the heat so that the stock stays hot while cooking the risotto. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the chopped shallot or onion. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until slightly translucent. Add the rice to the pot and stir it briskly with a wooden spoon so that the grains are coated with the oil and melted butter. Sauté for another minute or so, until there

For Salsa Verde: Handful flat-leaf parsley leaves Handful basil leaves 1 garlic clove, chopped 2 teaspoons capers, drained 200ml extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, juiced Sea salt For risotto: 300ml chicken or vegetable stock 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons butter (divided) 1 medium shallot finely chopped 300g Arborio rice 100g parmesan cheese aged (24 months, grated)

Sea salt, to taste

is a slightly nutty aroma without letting the rice turn brown. Add a ladle of hot chicken stock to the rice and stir until the liquid is fully absorbed. When the rice appears almost dry, add another ladle of stock and repeat the process. Continue adding stock, a ladle at a time, for 20 to 30 minutes or until the grains are tender but still firm to the bite, without being crunchy (al dente). Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, burnt garlic paste and parmesan cheese. Season to taste with sea salt. Whilst the risotto is cooking finish off the snails by heating some olive oil in a pan and lightly frying the onion and garlic. Add the snails and wine and let the wine evaporate. Add 2 spoons of salsa verde, cover the saucepan and let the snails cook slowly over a low flame for a couple of minutes. Meanwhile, put the chopped guanciale on a baking sheet and bake in the oven until crispy. Serve the risotto mixture in four plates and add the snail mixture on top. Drizzle with salsa verde and some of the crispy guanciale. Wine: Michele Chiarlo, Cipressi Nizza DOCG, Piemonte, Italy

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Assemble the salsa by dicing the celery, olives, red peppers, and ġbejniet into small cubes. Set the ġbejniet aside in the fridge. Finely chop the coriander. Combine all the ingredients, except for the ġbejniet, in a medium sized bowl. Cover and leave the flavors to integrate in the fridge until you need to plate. To make the cauliflower cups, dice and blend the cauliflower into rice sized grains. Transfer the cauliflower rice into a medium sized pan on medium heat. Add a tablespoon of salt to extract excess water from the cauliflower. Allow to cook, stirring often, for 8-10mins.Take it off the heat and let cool for 15 mins. Using muslin or a white dish cloth, squeeze out all the excess water from the cauliflower until it is dry enough to form solid shapes. Add Ras el Hanout, smoked paprika, diced garlic, egg and cheese into the drained cauliflower and mix well.

Smoked Tomato Soup With A Carob Salsa-Filled Cauliflower Cup Recipe by chef Sam Degaetano Serves: 6 Prep time: 2.5 hrs For the salsa: Celery stick,1 Medium red pepper,1 Kalamata olives, pitted,150g Capers, 4 tsp Olive oil, 1 tbsp. Ground cumin, ½ tsp. Carob syrup, 1 tbsp. Apple cider vinegar, ½ tsp. Fresh coriander, small handful Fresh ġbejniet, 2 Pepper, pinch For the tomato soup: Tomatoes, 12, medium sized, blanched & peeled Red peppers, 3, medium sized, chargrilled, skinned and deseeded White onions, 2 medium sized, diced Garlic cloves, 2 diced 058

Tomato conserve, 1 tbsp. Massaman curry paste, 1 tbsp. Harissa, 1 tbsp. Wholegrain mustard, 1 tsp. Light soy sauce, 1 tbsp. Sumac, ½ tsp. Coconut sugar, 1 tsp. Organic vegetable stock, 500ml Apple cider vinegar, 1 tsp. Salt, 1 tsp. For the cauliflower cups: Cauliflower, medium size, 1 Egg, 1 Parmesan cheese, ½ cup, grated Ras el Hanout, ½ tsp. Smoked paprika, ½ tsp. Garlic, 1 clove, diced Salt and pepper, as needed Method: There are several elements in this dish which may seem daunting, however, it’s much easier done then said. Yes, an inverted expression but it will soon become clear. Strategise the dish by beginning with the salsa, moving on to the soup and then the cups.

Brush a tartlet baking mold, or any cupcake sized mold, with butter or oil, to prevent cups from sticking. Fill molds to the brim and form a cup like shape by pressing the mixture into the mold firmly. Leave approx. half a centimeter thickness all round to that the mold doesn’t break when removed. Bake in the oven at 180 degrees C for about 20 mins or until they start turning brown. Before removing from the mold make sure they are cooked and firm. Once removed from mold set aside. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a medium sized pan on a medium heat. Add the Massaman curry paste and stir for around 1 min. Add diced onions, pinch of salt and pinch of pepper and stir for 3 mins. Follow with the roasted peppers and let cook for 3 mins. Next add the blanched, peeled tomatoes, another pinch of salt and pepper for flavor and cook for 5 mins. Season with the light soy sauce, tomato conserve, harissa, diced garlic, and wholegrain mustard. Add in the vegetable stock, sumac and smoked paprika. Cover and bring to boil and reduce to a simmer. Add in the sugar and allow to cook for 40 minutes stirring every ten minutes. Use an immersion blender or liquidizer to blend soup to a smooth consistency. To plate fill your bowl with soup, just enough to sit below the cauliflower cup’s height. Fill the cup with the salsa adding the ġbejniet on top. Garnish with microgreens or extra coriander.


Serving bowls - camilleriparismode

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S P I CE D P U M P KI N S OU P W I T H

SOUPED Up!

P R E S E RV E D L E M O NS P RE P TIM E : 40 M IN S E RV E S: 6

B Y C H E F A L ISO N A Z ZO PAR D I

Ingredients: Butternut squash or pumpkin, 1 kg, peeled and chopped Kunserva, 1tbsp Red or white onion, medium, sliced Garlic cloves, 3, crushed Mild fresh chilli, seeds removed, 1 or to taste, chopped Zaatar, 2 tsps. Vegetable stock, 600mls Coconut milk, 400mls Olive oil, 1 tbsp. Salt to taste To serve Preserved lemons, chopped Toasted walnuts, chopped Fresh coriander, roughly chopped

Method: Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and salt. Cook slowly for 3 minutes or until onion has softened but not coloured. Add crushed garlic and pumpkin. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-10 minutes or until pumpkin has softened or starts to brown. Add chilli, zaatar and kunserva. Cook for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add stock and coconut milk. Bring to the boil and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer for 15-20 minutes or until pumpkin is tender. Set aside for 2 minutes to cool slightly. Blend in batches until smooth and adjust seasoning. To serve, divide between warmed bowls, top with chopped preserved lemons, walnuts and lightly chopped fresh coriander. Serve with warm crusty rolls or bread. 059



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i n e C u h g e e n k o ! T

Braised Pork Cheek and Tongue with Puy Lentils

Serves: 4 Prep time: 3 hrs Recipe: chef Alison Azzopardi

Ingredients Pig cheeks and tongue Carrots, 3 diced Onion, 1, diced Cheeks, 8 Tongues, 2 Garlic, 2 cloves, crushed Thyme, 1 sprig Red wine vinegar, 100mls Red wine, 200mls Flour, 20g Water 2 ltr. Bay leaf, 1 Puy lentils, 200g Sherry vinegar, 30mls Butter, as needed Salt and pepper, as needed Olive oil, as needed

Method: To prepare the tongue bring a pot of salted water to the boil, add the tongue and vinegar, lower heat and simmer for about 2 hrs, or until tongue is tender. To prepare the pig cheeks warm a little olive oil in a pot. Sear the pig cheeks on all sides until golden brown. Next, add the carrots, onions, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Sprinkle with the flour and 20g butter. Cook for about 1 minute and deglaze with the red wine and continue to cook until the wine has reduced by half. Add water to cover all the elements in the pot. Bring it back to a boil then place a cover on the pot. Simmer for 30 minutes then add the lentils. Cook for about 20 mins, adding more water if necessary. Add the sherry vinegar, stir, and continue to cook for another 15 minutes. Check seasoning and stir in a hefty knob of butter. To plate, place the lentils in a deep dish and then place 2 pig cheeks and ½ a tongue, cut length ways on top of the lentils. 061



q uf i cx k

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P R E P T I M E 30 M I N

' DELICIOUS DOESN'T HAVE TO BE COMPLICATED! WHIP THIS UP IN MINUTES FOR QUICK, COMFORTING, MELTY GOODNESS!'

S ERV E S 4

GOO E Y F RO G A TATTARJA S A N DW I C H B Y C H E F D E B B IE SCHEMBRI OF

B A R E F O OT A N D CUR IO U S

Re c i p e P g. 6 8

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WASTE NOT, WANT NOT. Recipes: chef Keith Abela of Natural Preserves

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3 WAYS LAMPUKI – HEAD TO TAIL. Lampuka Skin Crackers

Lampuka Marmitako

Asian-Style Lampuka Salad

Prep time: 1.5 to 3.5 hrs

Serves: 2 - Prep time: 1.5 hrs

Serves: 2 - Prep time: 1 hrs / 15 min

Ingredients: Reserved lampuka skins, anything you have reserved

Ingredients: Bones & head from from 1 lampuka Tomatoes, 250g Onions, 250g Fennel bulbs, 1 Garlic, 1 head Turmeric, ½ tsp Smoked paprika, 2g Fennel seeds, 2g Marjoram, 2 sprigs Parsley, 3 sprigs Basil, 2 sprigs Olive oil, 100ml Salt, 1tsp Pieces of lampuka, as desired, approx. 2 inches big

Ingredients: Lampuka fillets, skin removed, 1 fillet Sea salt, 1 tsp + extra Sugar, 2 tsp Live or raw apple cider vinegar, 200ml Nori sheets, 1 sheet Red cabbage, 200g Spring onions, 4 Radishes, 2 Chili pepper, 1 Teriyaki sauce, 2 tsp Sesame oil, 2 tsp Soy sauce, 1 tsp Toasted peanuts, as needed Fresh coriander, as needed Lemon,1, halved

Method: Place a pot on a medium heat and add the olive oil and lampuka bones along with the salt. Cook the bones and head till they have a golden brown colour and cover the mixture with water. Clean the fennel and remove any excess trimming. Place the fennel trimmings into the pot with the lampuki. Thinly slice the main part of the fennel bulb and season with salt and a little olive oil and leave this mixture to marinate for a minimum of 10 minutes. Reserve this mixture for later use. Chop the onions, tomatoes and garlic into rough, medium sized pieces and place them in the pot with the bones and water. Add the fennel seeds, turmeric and smoked paprika to the pot. Bring the broth up to a boil and immediately reduce to a simmer. Leave the broth to simmer for around 1 hour. When done, strain the broth through a fine sieve and place the broth into another pot. Add the lampuki pieces to the pot and simmer for 1 minute or till fully cooked.

Method: Season the lampuka fillet with salt and sugar and leave it to marinate for 1 hour. Once the time has elapsed place the seasoned lampuki fillet in a container and cover it with the apple cider vinegar. Leave the lampuka in this mixture for 2 hours. As the lampuka fillet cures it will begin to turn white.

Sea salt, 1 tsp Sunflower oil, as needed For the seasoning mix: MSG, 1 tsp Salt, ½ tsp Sugar, ½ tsp Cumin, 1 tsp Smoked paprika, ½ tsp Ground black pepper, ¼ tsp Method: For the seasoning mix, add all the ingredients to a jar and shake well. Reserve the jar. This seasoning mix works well with pork skins and any barbequed meats and fish. For the fish skin crackers, season the fish skins with a little bit of salt and place them between some kitchen towels so they can absorb some water. Leave the skins to sit for around 1 hour. Place the skins on a cooling rack and leave them to dry in a well-ventilated area for 3 hours or so. Alternatively place them in an oven at 100 degrees C for 1 hour. Place a pan on a medium to high heat and add the sunflower oil. Fry the skins for 30 seconds on each side. You can tell that the skins are crispy when the oil stops bubbling. Remove the skins and place on a paper towel. Season with the spice mix and serve.

To serve place the marinated fennel in the centre of the bowl with the lampuki pieces scattered around. Pour the broth over the whole mixture and garnish with the fresh herbs and a drizzle of olive oil.

When done, remove the fillets from the mixture and drain on kitchen towel. Wrap the fillets in the nori sheets and cut into manageable, bite-size pieces. Thinly slice the cabbage, chilli and spring onions and place them into a bowl. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil and the juice of 1 lemon to the cabbage. Give it a good mix and leave it to sit for 15 minutes. Thinly slice the radish into rounds and place into a container with ice cold water. Place the cabbage salad in the centre of a bowl and the nori wrapped lampuki around it. Garnish the dish with the toasted peanuts, radish slices and coriander leaves and drizzle over the teriyaki sauce.

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Keith Abela captures the essence of Hobz Biz-Zejt whilst offering a fresh take on the dish using gorgeous Lampuki instead of less sustainable Tuna. Preserved items and foraged herbs provide accents bursting with flavour and a taste of home. Fried Lampuka Fillet with Flavours of Hobz Biz -Zejt Serves: 2 Start to finish: 1.5 hrs Recipe by chef Keith Abela of Natural Preserves Ingredients: Lampuki fillets, 2, skin off and reserved Semolina, 300g Loaf of Maltese bread, ½ one Sunflower oil, as needed Salt, as needed For the Kunserva’ Tomatoes, 500g Garlic, 1 head Onions, 200g Olive oil, 150g Chili, 1 small piece Basil leaves,30g Brown sugar, 20 g Garnishes Fresh mint leaves, 10 Rucola leaves,10 Giardiniera, 1 jar Caper berries,10 Basil pesto, 1 jar Method: Start by making the Kunserva. This can be used for any manner of dish where tomato conserve is required. First cut the tomatoes in half and season the cut side with salt. Place a thick bottomed pan on a high heat and once hot add the tomatoes, cut side down and leave them to brown nicely. Cut the onions into thin strips and cut the head of garlic in half (you can leave the garlic skins attached). Place the onions, garlic, chilli, olive oil and basil to the pan with the tomatoes stir and cover. Cook the mixture on a low heat for 1 hour. Add the sugar and blend the mixture. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve and place in the fridge for later use. For the lampuka, remove the skin from the lampuka fillets and reserve for a later use. Season the lampuka with salt and place 066

into a bowl with the semolina. Leave the lampuka in the semolina for a minimum of 15 minutes, but no longer than 2 hours. Place a pan with sunflower oil on a medium to high heat. Once hot add the lampuka fillets to the pan and cook for roughly 3 -4 minutes on each side. Remove from the pan and place on a kitchen towel till serving. Remove the heart from the Maltese bread and rip into rough large pieces. Either toast the bread under a grill for 2 minutes or char the bread with a blowtorch To plate, place some dollops of kunserva on one half of the plates and add the toasted bread pieces around. Drain the caper berries and the giardiniera from their pickling liquids. You can reserve the pickling liquids to make a lovely salad dressing. Place pieces of giardiniera and caper berries around the bread and kunserva and garnish the area with mint leaves and rocket. On the other side of the plate add a layer of basil pesto and place the cooked lampuka on top. Giardiniera and caper berries supplied by Natural Preserves. Wine is distributed by Francis Busuttil & Sons (Marketing) Ltd, T: +356 2549 7000 W: fbsmarketing.com

Plate – camilleriparismode

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067


Turkey Involtini 8

25 minutes

20 minutes

Ingredients

Method

· 400g turkey breast, cut into 8 thin slices

· Preheat oven to 175°C. Mix olive oil and a crushed Knorr Chicken cube to create a paste. Set aside for later.

· 8 prosciutto slices · 16 cheddar slices · Sage leaves · 2tbsp olive oil · Knorr Chicken Cube · 1 knob of butter · Tobasco · 200g pitted prunes · Salt & pepper · Dried cranberries to serve

· Lay the sliced turkey breast on a chopping board place a slice of prosciutto and 2 cheddar slices. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add 2 pitted prunes and drizzle some Tobasco sauce. Roll up and secure with toothpicks. Brush with the involtini with the Knorr chicken paste and finish off with a sage leaf. · Drizzle olive oil on a large frying pan. Place the involtini, occasionally turning. Add a knob of butter and baste until golden. Transfer the involtini into an oven tray and roast until turkey is cooked through for 10-12 minutes. Serve with dried cranberries and enjoy!


#BITES/SIDES

Loving Leftovers Regardless what troupers or marathon eaters your family might be, overcooking and overeating turn into a sport at Christmas. The inevitable leftovers remain and whilst it is good to remember to avoid throwing portion control out of the window here is a recipe to inspire creative eating in the days to follow. This is a winning recipe that scoops up all the sides you have into one delectable vegetarian burger leaving you feeling hugged come Boxing Day Blues.

Find this recipe at www.served.mt

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FEATURED ON PAGE 61

GOOEY FROGA TATTARJA SANDWICH Serves: 4 Prep time: 30 min Recipe: chef Debbie Schembri of Barefoot and Curious

Tarja, 200g Eggs, 4 Parsley, handful, roughly chopped Parmesan cheese, grated 100g Benna peppered ġbejna, 2, grated Benna fresh ġbejna, 2 Benna mozzarella, 1 ball, grated Fresh thyme, 8 sprigs, picked Freshly ground black pepper Salt, as needed Olive oil, as needed Method: Cook the tarja according to the cooking instructions on the packet in seasoned water. Add an

FEATURED RIGHT

additional 2 minutes so that it is a little softer than usual. Drain and drizzle over olive oil, working it through, so that the strands don’t clump together. In a large bowl beat the eggs, add in the grated parmesan and parsley. Season with a small pinch of salt. Once the pasta is cool stir it into the egg mixture. Heat a small frying pan on a medium heat. Drizzle in some olive oil and once hot tip in one eighth of the pasta mixture to cover the base of the pan to the depth of around 3 cm. Cook gently on one side and then use a plate to flip it around to cook the other side for another couple of minutes. Work through the whole mixture in this manner. You can also choose to use a larger pan and make less, but bigger omelettes for sharing.

Serves 2 – Prep time 1 Hr Recipe: Kristina Cassar Dowling

Duck breasts, 2, skin on Carob syrup, 2tbsp Star anise, 2 pods Peaches, 2, (thinly sliced in rounds, juices reserved)

Mix the two types of ġbejna with the mozzarella, thyme, salt, and a good amount of fresh black pepper. Lay out 4 of the frogas and divide the cheese mixture evenly between them. Cover with another froga to make a sandwich. Either bake them in an over at 190 degrees C until the cheese is bubbling and oozing or cook them in a toasted sandwich maker for around 5 minutes.

For the love of Food, Golden Drop! Golden Drop Extra Virgin Olive Oil is made using the best Spanish olives to create a distinguishable taste in every single drop. Whether to accompany your salads, drizzled on a crusty piece of bread or even in your cooking it is an essential in your kitchen. Distributed by: Quality Foods (Marketing) Ltd. Tel: 21463600, Email: Info@qualityfoods.com.mt

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CAROB GLAZED DUCK BREAST WITH BAKED ROOTS AND PEACHES RECIPE

Purple potatoes, 2, (thinly sliced in rounds)

New potatoes, 2, (thinly sliced in rounds) Red potatoes, 2, (thinly sliced in rounds) Beetroot, 1, (thinly sliced in rounds) Red onion, 1, (thinly sliced in rounds) Heritage carrots, 6, (quartered lengthwise)

Olive oil, as needed Salt, as needed Pepper, as needed Method: Preheat the oven to 190 degrees C. Place all thinly sliced rounds of potato on one baking tray, the peaches and onion on another and a separate dish for the beetroot. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for around 20 minutes, or until potatoes are tender and slightly golden. Meanwhile, add the reserved peach juices, carob syrup and star anise to a small sauté pan and allow to reduce with your carob syrup. In the case of over reducing add a few drops of water. Use a very sharp knife to score the fat of your duck breast. Do this by slicing the fat several times on a

bias, 2 thirds of the way down. Do not go too deep and pierce the meat as this will dry out your duck. Place a non-stick frying pan on a medium to low heat and place the duck, fat side down. Gently hold the duck breast down on the pan to avoid curling. Patiently render the fat, pouring out accumulated fat into a bowl every five minutes until you are left with a golden and crispy skin. This can sometimes take around 15 minutes but is worth the effort to avoid an unpleasantly fatty skin. Once the skin is about two thirds thinner, turn up the heat in your pan and rotate the duck to seal the meat sides. Toss the carrots into the pan, season with salt, toss with residual fat and cook for a couple of minutes. Baste your duck skin with the peaches and carob syrup and pop the whole pan in the oven for another 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for a further 5 minutes. Reserve the duck fat to cook delicious potatoes! Plate your onions, overlapped by the beetroots and then the peach. Slice the duck on a bias and season generously with salt. Fan out on the side of the dish and drizzle the plate with the remaining carob syrup. Serve the potatoes on the side. Duck breasts from Snow White Poultry.


#BITES/SIDES

SERVES 2 – PREP TIME 1HR CAR O B GL AZ E D DUCK B REAST WITH B AK ED ROOTS AN D PEACHES RE C I P E B Y KRISTINA CA SSA R DOWLING

Wine is distributed by Francis Busuttil & Sons (Marketing) Ltd, tel +356 25497000 www.fbsmarketing.com 071



#in the know

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Salsa Tartufata The combination of mushroom and truffle is a match made in heaven. Our truffle sauce does not contain any preservatives and colouring and is only enriched with carefully selected spices. Our original recipe does not contain any olives, simply focusing on the star of the show, the truffle. Available from UpperFood Malta

Wine Selection

Carozzi Cappriciolo

Every bottle in our range of wines is chosen by us. Selections are based on quality and flavour but we also seek out producers and wine makers who share a passion, enthusiasm, and a deep knowledge of tradition, handed down from one generation to the next. Each wine is chosen to reflect the complexity of the region, but also a harmony with nature. Available from UpperFood Malta

An award-winning cheese by Carozzi; a family owned business that respects ancient traditions whilst producing modern interpretations. Their Cappriciolo is the winner of the SILVER award at the 2013 World Cheese Awards. It is a blue goat cheese, with a delicate and unique flavour. Available from UpperFood Malta

Terre Francescane Pepper Oil The Terre Francescane range of olive oil is made and produced by the Gradassi family that has been producing oil from the 1600s. Created using only 100% Italian extra virgin olive oil. Exquisite oils with an impeccable flavour, remarkable quality and effortless elegance.

Ogygia Range by Vini e Capricci Be good to yourself this Christmas and New Year with our premium Ogygia range of products, where you’ll be able to taste true, authentic flavours of Gozo. Our team are constantly blending local ingredients in new ways to create innovative taste combinations that you will love. Make your next meal mouth watering and elevate it by adding amazing flavours from our Ogygia range. Vini e Capricci, Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewija Gozo +356 2156 3231

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#SWEET BITS

Chocolate Nut Tart with Thyme Infused Carob and Yogurt Ice Cream Serves: 6 to 8 Start to finish: 4 hours 50 minutes Recipe by chef Sam Degaetano For the Cup: Almonds, 1 cup, by Good Earth Shredded coconut, 1 cup, supplied by Good Earth Pitted dates, 10, by Good Earth Melted coconut oil, ½ tbsp Carob powder, 1 tbsp, by Good Earth Dark chocolate, 250g , by Good Earth Pomegranate seeds, ½ cup For the Ice Cream: Greek yoghurt, 2 cups Carob syrup, 1tbsp Dried thyme, 1 tsp Vanilla extract, ½ tsp For the pomegranate reduction: Pomegranates, 2 Coconut sugar, 3 tsps.

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#SWEET BITS

Method: Strategise this dish by first making the yoghurt ice cream. Then move on to the chocolate pomegranate nut tart and pomegranate reduction. Then patiently waiting for everything to set. For the ice cream place the yogurt, vanilla extract, carob syrup and thyme in a food processor and process for 3-5 minutes or until smooth. If you have an ice cream maker spoon it in and churn on low speed for about 10 mins. Transfer into a sealable container and freeze for at least 2 hours. If one is not available, once the ingredients have been combined, spoon the mixture into a container and put in the freezer for at least 2 hours. Remove from the freezer and mix in the edges every 30 mins for another 2 hours. For the tart grind all ingredients, apart from the chocolate and pomegranate seeds, together in a blender. You can test if the dough is ready if, when you pick up a little and squash it, it clumps up together. If it is too crumbly add a teaspoon of coconut oil and blitz for longer. Place 2 strips of baking paper in the bottom of your tart pans or cupcake molds. This makes it easier to pull out the tarts once they are ready to be served. Place a small amount of crust in the tart pan and press it down, spreading it all over the surface.Press down further in the middle of each tart to form a cup shaped nut tart and place the tarts in the freezer. Fill the bottom of a small saucepan with 1 cup of water. Bring to a simmer over low heat. Break up the chocolate into a heat proof bowl that fits snuggly on the top of the pan. Place on the pan and slowly melt the chocolate in a Bain Marie style, stirring until completely melted. Remove from the heat, let cool for 15 mins and then fold in the pomegranate seeds. Remove the nut cups from the freezer and fill them to the brim with the chocolate and pomegranate mixture. Put them back in the freezer and let sit for at least another hour. To make the pomegranate molasses open the pomegranate and scoop out the seeds. Pass them through your juicer and set extracted juice aside. Place a small saucepan on high heat, add juice and coconut sugar and bring to the boil. Keep boiling until the pomegranate juice is reduced by half and has a syrupy consistency, approx. 3 minutes, stirring when needed. Remove the pomegranate sauce from heat, pour into a cup and let cool. To plate, remove the ice cream from the freezer at least 30 mins before and the cups form the freezer 10 mins before. Pour the pomegranate reduction in the center on the plate. Place the tart firmly in the center on the reduction. Place a scoop of ice cream on the top and garnish with a sprig of thyme.

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#SWEET BITS

Combine all the dry ingredients. Whisk the oil, zest and eggs together in a separate bowl, pour over the dry ingredients and beat together till smooth. Pour into a 23cm based tin that is lined and greased. Put into a cold oven, turn on to 180 degrees C and bake for 40 minutes or until it is firm and golden brown. Make the syrup by gently simmering syrup ingredients for 5 minutes or until thickened. When the cake is cooked, remove it from the tin and pierce it all over. Spoon the syrup over it until it is all soaked. Serve with yoghurt and Orange and Chili Jam. For orange and chili jam: Oranges, 3 Red chillies, 1 or to taste, deseeded Caster sugar, 450g Water, 100ml

Matty Cremona’s Orange Cake served with Orange and Chili Jam Serves: 6 – Start to finish: 55 minutes For the orange cake: Stale breadcrumbs, 50g Caster sugar, 200g Ground almonds, 100g Baking powder, 1 ½ tsp Sunflower oil, 200mls Eggs, 4 Oranges, 3, zest Lemon, half, zest Syrup Juice of the oranges and lemon above Sugar, 75g Cloves, 2 Cinnamon stick, 1 Greek yoghurt to serve 078

Method: Peel the oranges, setting peel aside. Remove all the white pith from the flesh. Roughly chop flesh and remove seeds, placing them in a muslin bag. Place the flesh in a large saucepan with sugar and water. Finely shred the peel and add to the pan. Place the seeds in the muslin into the pot with rest of ingredients as seeds contain lots of pectin and will help the jam set. Bring the mixture to the boil over a medium heat. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring often, or until mixture thickens. To test if it is ready, drop a little onto a chilled plate. It should set and wrinkle when you push your finger through it. Pour into sterilised jars.


#SWEET BITS

P R E P T I M E 4H R 50MIN S ERV E S 6- 8

I M B U L J U TA M O U S S E B Y ST E PH E N L A R O SA

For those of you unfamiliar with the original, Imbuljuta is a traditional Maltese Christmas drink flavoured with chocolate, chestnuts, citrus and a medley of spices. This dessert interpretation consists of a creamy chocolate and chestnut mousse infused with flavours reminiscent of Imbuljuta sitting on rich carob-based biscuit crumb. Recipe pg 88

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#sustainable

Have Yourself a Green Christmas JEAN PAUL AND CHRISTINA, FOUNDERS OF REROOT, A ZEROWASTE SHOP, INSPIRE US TO GET CRAFTY WITH NATURAL MATERIALS TO CREATE BEAUTIFUL AND SUSTAINABLE CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS.

T

hat special time of the year is here which inevitably means whipping out those Pinterest boards that you aspire to recreate in your house every year….This year will be the year! You’ve promised yourself that you’re not going to fashion a version of the Grinch’s cave again, instead, you’re going to build a Christmas Wonderland that will put Martha Stewart to shame. Then again, your time is short and patience probably running thin. You barely have time to keep up with life this year let alone spend hours decorating the house. It’s been a hell of a year, no judgment here. Thankfully, there are some very easy decorating hacks out there that are not only a fun family activity but are also easy to pull together and importantly, sustainable. After all, green is the Christmas colour. 080


#sustainable

Orange, Cinnamon & Pinecone Mobiles

Now for the fun part...

What you will need:

First, make your wreath by gently wrapping the pine shoots or eucalyptus leaves around the embroidery loop using the thin wire to keep everything place. You want to do this until the loop is completely covered.

- - - -

A handful of oranges Cinnamon sticks Pinecones Natural twine

How to make the mobiles: Before you can begin using your oranges you need to dry them out. Start by cutting them into thin slices and lightly patting them down to remove any excess moisture. Place each slice on a tray and place them in the oven on a very low heat for approximately 3 hours. Turn each slice over every 30 minutes or so to avoid the slices curling up. Remove from the oven and leave on a cloth to dry out completely before using them. The same can be done with other fruits such as lemons and apples.

..."These mobiles make your room smell divine whilst also adding style and warmth!"... There is no need to wander far for inspiration. You can begin in your own backyard or neighbourhood. On your next walk, bring out your inner Bear Grylls and forage for your decorations. Look out for fallen pinecones, pine leaves, branches, perhaps the odd orange and any beautiful autumnal leaves. Once you’ve gathered a sizeable bag of foraged goods you can start thinking about the different decorations you can pull together. These earthy hues, coupled with beautiful handmade brass and wooden decorations, will create an ecoChristmas haven within your home.

Cut the natural twine to any length you like and tie a small knot on one end. Make a small hole in one orange slice and pass it through the twine. Slide the slice to the knot. Repeat this process with the remainder of your items. For our mobiles we used orange slices, pinecones, and cinnamon sticks. It makes your room smell divine whilst also adding style and warmth! Centre Table Wreath What you will need: - Embroidery hoop - A variety of greenery and shoots. Examples are eucalyptus leaves, Examples are eucalyptus leaves, pine pine shoots, dried baby’s breath, shoots, dried baby’s breath, dried dried oranges, and cinnamon oranges, and cinnamon sticks. sticks. - Large glass jar - Large candle - Pinecones - Thin wire

Once you have built your base you can now start weaving in the additional items. Whether those are pieces of dried baby’s breath, pinecones or dried oranges, the options are endless! The aim here is to continue to build on the base and to create some height. Position your jar in the centre of the wreath together with a white candle et voila’ you have your table decoration! Natural Tree Decorations A Christmas tree is central to every household’s decorations. People spend time curating their trees around a theme. This year why not try a natural angle and fill your tree with warm, earthy tones together with the soft golden glow of brass. While simple, these decorations will not only make an impression but they’re also sustainable. You can also use extra dried oranges, pinecones and cinnamon sticks to further fill out your tree and mirror your other house decorations. Decorating your home doesn’t need to be costly, boring or detrimental to the environment. By simply using what you have around you and adding natural accents, your home could look like the Christmas wonderland you’ve always imagined. Christina and Jean Paul founded zero waste store, ReRoot. The store offers a great range of sustainable products for your home, for you and your belly, including sustainable Christmas decorations, gifts and wrapping paper. The store is located in Iklin and is also online. www.rerootmalta.com.

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#LIGHT BITES

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#GIFT GUIDE

'Top Ti pples'

Say cheers with these perfect Christmas gifts! A dram to suit every character....

FOR THOSE CELEBRATORY OCCASIONS MOET ET CHANDON BRUT IMPERIAL PRICE: €47.99

FOR THE INDECISIVE: POCKET SCOTCHES MEDLEY Price: Red: €6.55; Black: €12.10 J&B:€6.55 Singleton: €13.95 Why have one when you can have them all? Gift your loved ones with a pack of Johnnie Walker Red, Johnnie Walker Black, J&B and Singleton. Pocket Scotch is a chic, sleek and perfect way to experience world-renowned whiskies in a smaller 20cl format.

BAILEYS CHOCOLAT LUXE LIQUEUR Price: €21.45 70cl There’s just something so sumptuous about this decadent Bailey’s concoction.This is undoubtedly a unique drinking experience that brings together three favourite indulgences: Madagascan vanilla, real Belgian chocolate and the original Baileys Irish Cream. Enjoy the indulgent experience on its own or over ice.

FOR THE SINGLE MALT FANS THE SINGLETON OF DUFFOWN, 12 YEARS OLD SINGLE MALT WHISKY 70CL

Do you have a reason to pop this festive season? Let’s be honest, nothing says let’s celebrate more than a bottle of Moet. A symbol of splendour since 1743, this timeless champagne is a sparkling bouquet of floral and citrus notes, with an elegant colour and its seductive palate. Where royals toast and models mingle with rockstars, Moët & Chandon Impérial is most certainly there.

PRICE: : €36.50

Any whiskey stalwart’s eyes will widen upon the sight of a bottle of Dufftown. Deep gold with polished mahogany highlights, in appearance, it has a rich and approachable nose. To the palate the flavour is first of toasted nuts, then orange zest spiciness perks up the malty core. The finish is medium to long with a sweetly nutty delayed warmth. Just beautiful. 083


#SWEET BITS

(serves 3) Baileys Original Irish Cream, ½ cup Eggnog, ½ cup Vanilla ice cream, 3 cups Cinnamon, 1tsp Whipped cream Crushed gingersnaps Method: Blend the Baileys, vanilla ice-cream, eggnog, and cinnamon until smooth. Pour into 3 glasses. Top with whipped cream and crushed gingersnaps. Enjoy!

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#SWEET BITS

Recipe Pg. 88 Sticky Toffee Pudding with carob toffee sauce

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AUTHENTIC GREEK YOGURT MANE R

W PRI O

TLY L N

€1.25

RICH IN PROTEIN

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#SWEET BITS FEATURED ON PAGE 77

minutes or until you can crush the chestnuts in the pot easily with the back of a spoon. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and add to the jug of a blender. Remove the cinnamon stick and orange peel from the pot. Add the hot cream and chestnut mixture into a blender. Blend on high until smooth. Scrape out into a mixing bowl and cover with cling film pressed up against the surface. Allow to come to room temperature.

IMBULJUTA MOUSSE Serves: Makes 6 little mugs of Imbuljuta Prep time: 2 hrs Recipe: chef Stephen la Rosa

For the Chocolate Chestnut Mousse: Roasted chestnuts, 300g Milk, 500ml Granulated sugar, 115g Vanilla essence, 1 tbsp Salt, ½ tsp Cinnamon sticks, 2 Mixed spice, 1 tsp Orange, 1 Dark chocolate (70%), 115g, by Good Earth Cream, 500g For the Carob and Cocoa Digestive: All purpose flour, 140g Carob flour, 80g , by Good Earth Cocoa powder, 20g Baking powder, 1 tbsp Icing sugar, 85g Butter, 145g Milk, 55g Salt, ½ tsp To garnish: Butter, 100g Cream, 20g A bar of dark chocolate An orange Method: For the Chocolate Chestnut Mousse combine the milk, chestnuts, sugar, vanilla essence, cinnamon, mixed spice and salt in a medium sized pot. Using a peeler, carefully remove three strips of orange peel. Remove any white pith as this will add bitterness. Add these to the pot. Bring the pot up to the boil. Keep an eye out for boiling over. Cook for 15-20 090

Once the chestnut mixture is cool enough to handle but not too firm, grab a separate mixing bowl. Add your cream and whip to stiff peaks. Gently fold the cream mixture into the chestnut mixture in three stages until the mixture is combined. Optionally place the mousse into piping bags to make it easier to layer the finished dessert. Refrigerate until needed. For the Carob and Cocoa Digestive preheat an oven to 180C. Prepare a baking tray lined with baking paper. Sift and combine the flour, carob flour, cocoa, icing sugar, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl. Cut the butter into small cubes and rub into the flour with your fingers until the butter is broken into pea sized pieces. Add the milk a little bit at a time and knead gently until the dough comes together. Flour a work surface and roll out your dough to 1cm thick. Cut into squares and lay out on the lined baking tray. Since the biscuits are going to be crushed, the shape isn’t of concern. If you want to serve some of the biscuits the recipe makes a few extra. Cut these out with little cookie cutters if you prefer. Bake for 20 minutes at 180C. Remove and allow to cool to room temperature. Crush 250g of the biscuits using a food processor or by placing them in a plastic bag and relieving some tension on them with a rolling pin. Place the butter in

a small pan on the stove. Allow to cook until the butter stops bubbling and starts to brown. Once brown, add the butter to the crushed biscuits along with a splash of cream, roughly 20g. Stir to coat the crushed biscuits with butter. In the base of 6 serving vessels press down 2 heaped tablespoons or so of the biscuit base. Pipe or spoon on equal amounts of the chocolate and chestnut mousse. You can do this while placing the mugs on a weighing scale if you want to be precise. Tap down the mugs onto a kitchen cloth to level them off and store in the fridge, wrapped for up to 5 days before serving. To finish, pull them out and allow to temper for around 20 minutes. To garnish, use a peeler to shave on plenty of dark chocolate and top with a little bit of freshly zested orange.

Butter, for greasing Pinch of salt For the carob toffee sauce:

Double cream, 250ml Butter, 100g Molasses sugar, 100g Carob syrup, 100g Extra double cream or vanilla ice cream to serve Method: Preheat the oven to

180 degrees C. Pour 275ml boiling water into a large mixing bowl and add the dates. Stir and set aside until lukewarm. Meanwhile, measure out all the other ingredients for the sponge. Add them to the dates and water and mix together until well combined. Blend the date mixture in a food processor until nearly smooth, but with a few specks of date still visible. Generously butter a baking dish on all surfaces and pour in the sponge batter. Bake for 40 minutes, or until just firm to the touch. Meanwhile, make the sauce by heating the ingredients gently in a pan, whisking regularly, until they briefly boil. Pour the topping over the cooked pudding.

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING WITH CAROB TOFFEE SAUCE Serves: 4 – Prep time: 2 hrs Recipe: chef Alison Azzopardi

Ingredients for the sponge:

Dates, 175g, chopped Bicarbonate of soda, 1 tsp Salted butter, 50g Demerara sugar, 75g Muscovado sugar, 75g Free-range eggs, 2 Self-raising flour, 175g Vanilla extract, 1 tsp

To serve, spoon the pudding into individual bowls and pour around the extra sauce. Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream



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