VAMP Magazine #43

43

VAMP MAGAZINE – OCT 2020

THE FA L L _ 2 0 ISSUE

“The imagination is not a state: it is the human existence itself”

Image: Monika Sed

– William Blake

Flipside: Meet the LA based creative explorer Monika Sed and her journey with photography.

++++ 011. STYLE FILE ‘20 > 014. ROMA FASHION WEEK > 028. THE COMFORT ZONE > 062. CHOW DOWN #2 > 036. ARCHITECTURE – STEPPING PARK HOUSE > 054. POWER PLAY – AYA BAPANI > 078. BEAUTY: BRIGHTEN UP > 046. PAUBHA: 21ST CENTURY DHARMA > 034. CHECK LIST ++++

THE POINT, SLIEMA & BAY STREET, ST JULIAN’S

INSIDE

We’re back to give you another issue of inspiring content from traditional sacred art in the Himalayas to californication in LA! But first, on behalf of the editorial team and publishers I would like to express huge gratitude to all the contributors and partners for the immense patience and support during this rollercoaster of a year. >>

Image by Monika Sed

#43

020. FLIPSIDE: MONIKA SED Meet the LA based creative explorer Monika Sed and her journey with photography.

08

FALL_20 ISSUE

INSIDE

AFTER A BREAK DUE TO COVID WE ARE BACK WITH A MINI ISSUE FOR AUTUMN 2020....

It’s truly amazing and inspiring to witness a collective of local and foreign artists around the world meet in VAMP. In this exciting autumn issue we journey into the small ancient streets of Kathmandu to meet traditional Paubha artist Lok Chitrakar – a fascinating history of this sacred art.

On the other side of the globe we meet LA based Monika Sed who takes us on your own journey of creativity and exploration through photography.

And amidst all of this chaos, we speak to Anna Radchenko who reflects on isolation and social distancing in her photo project The Comfort Zone.

With Mother Earth’s cry for help getting louder and louder we turned to Vietnam-based architects to let us in to their “House For Trees” housing project that aims to green-ify urban and condensed areas in Vietnam.

Of course, a VAMP issue is not complete without the latest in beauty, fashion and topnotch interiors.

Here’s to a smooth transition into Autumn, letting go of yesterday and making space for more joy to come, cheers!

011. STYLE FILE Check out this season’s style files brining comforting autumn flair and comfort into our wardrobes.

046. 21ST CENTURY DHARMA Nepal based traditional artist shares his journey through Paubha, a sacred art form.

014. ROMA FASHION WEEK Lira Bekbolatova gets front row seats earlier this year, highlighting the sustainable efforts from the participating designers.

We meet up with Aya Bapani – an internationally acclaimed fashion designer from Kazakhstan, with a distinctive style.

020. FLIPSIDE: MONIKA SED Meet the LA based creative explorer Monika Sed and her journey with photography.

062. CHOW DOWN Corinthia Palace Chefs, Matthew Darmanin & Reuben Borg present three mind blowing plates to test your skills.

028. THE COMFORT ZONE A photo project by Anna Radchenko who reflects on isolation and social distancing through photography.

036. STEPPING PARK HOUSE Set in the bustling Ho Chi Mink City, Vietnam-based architects aim to green their city through their “House For Trees” housing series.

SKINCEUTICALS C E FERULIC | SUN PROTECTION Multi-award-winning C E Ferulic is a vitamin C serum for advanced environmental protection and visible anti-ageing benefits.

Rejuvenate the skin with this brightening serum which reduces the appearance of fine lines and winkles, and improves loss of firmness for fresher, younger looking skin.

Exclusively available from Persona in Ta’ Xbiex

This magazine is published by [ V ] Publications also publishers of Served Magazine / Vamp / Localist / The Malta Artpaper

054. POWER PLAY

068. BRIGHTEN UP As summer begins to die down, we check out some of the most wanted beauty products trending this season 070. 7 YOGA POSES TO HELP YOU SLEEP BETTER Having a good night’s rest is crucial if you want to be at the top of your game the following day. Adam Reeve shares his bedtime Yoga Asanas for a restful sleep.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise.

While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. Copyright 2020 facebook.com/ vampmagazine malta

FALL_20 ISSUE

09

NEWS

POP ICON Kipling collaborates with renowned pop artist Keith Haring on a new collection that honours the collaborators’ shared values of inclusivity, and celebrates the city as a place of discovery and connection. Wearable and iconic, the Keith Haring x Kipling collection brings the positive energy of pop art into daily life.

Available from: Kipling, Republic Street, Valletta

MINIMALIST STERLING SILVER 925 Our rings are perfect for stacking, giving you the opportunity to curate your hands with our wide range of rings. Get a little playful with our coffee bean shell studs, wear them alone or pair them with a pair of classic hoops. We love our minimal cuff bangle for the everyday look, find it in the minimalist collection. Available from Vivi - http://vivijewellery.com/

VAMP.COM.MT VAMP Magazine is also online, helping you find what you need quickly and easily. Browse through thousands of curated international fashion, design, art and travel editorials, along with brilliant recipes, high profile intrerviews + much more.

[ UPDATES ] THE ONLY ONE The Only One Eau de Parfum Intense is a captivating new scent that’s alluringly feminine and irresistibly seductive.

Its signature lies in the combination of orange blossom contrasted with black vanilla. Top notes of sparkling Italian mandarin, crisp green apple accord and golden neroli essence illuminate the radiant floral heart of the fragrance. Exclusively distributed by C+M Marketing Ltd. Tel: 21424079/80

FALL_20 ISSUE

011

STYLE FILE

F

012

FALL_20 ISSUE

or Fall Winter 20, Weekend Max Mara returns to the roots of its rich heritage. Through delving into the archives, icons are rediscovered that feel more current than they’ve ever been before. Closet classics are having a renaissance, reworked for now with elements of colour, new volumes and unexpected combinations.

Presenting a masterful fusion of masculine and feminine elements, effortless denim overall is graced with a light touch while the new maxi dress arrives with maximum impact, tempering its dusty rose hue with supersized structural tiers. Finished with the iconic Pasticcino Bag, reimagined in buttery hazelnut-brown leather, alongside the comeback of the staple track shoe, your Weekend Max Mara uniform is complete. Classic is officially cool again.

VALLETTA -STREET N. 293, REPUBLIC STREET, VLT1110

Franchisee Weekend Max Mara:

STYLE FILE

B

orrowing from the past and bringing it to the present day, the new eclecticism takes inspiration from classic British heritage style and translates it for a new landscape.

The trick is in the mix – think treasured family heirlooms set off with a series of contemporary accents.

Classic tweed tailoring, oversized overcoats, masculine shirting, traditional cable knits, retro-chic dresses and glam –rock jackets that have been passed down through generations are reimagined for the new season in an expression of kaleidoscopic print, fresh colour and texture. Finished with athletic inspired accessories, this season’s causal mood is complete.

The resulti s a wardrobe that exudes quintessential English elegance with a streetwise edge.

[ British Heritage: Weekend Max Mara >Fall / Winter ’20 ]

014

FALL_20 ISSUE

STYLE FILE

FALL_20 ISSUE

015

STYLE FILE

STYLE REPORT Words: Lira Bekbolatova

‘20

A RT I S I N A L

INTELLIGENCE AT ROME FA S H I O N WEEK

016

FALL_20 ISSUE

STYLE FILE

A

Another year and another success for Rome Fashion Week. Lira Bekbolatova gets front row seats highlighting the sustainable efforts from the participating designers.

[...“ Among the standout collections were Federico Cina’s genderless “I bei tempi”, empowering “Omnia” by GALL and extremely adorable “Zoomantic” by Italo Marseglia. ”...]

It was loud and crowded as usually. The bustle of people socialising while drinking another gin and tonic, editors scurrying to find their front row seats and impressively commenting “this is TOP!” it looked like a full-on rush before Christmas.

GALL

This season Rome, along with Copenhagen, are moving towards sustainability: the event calendar was impressive!

Altaroma organized several platforms to support environmental awareness such as “Artisanal Intelligence,” which proposed a reflection on the natural dimension of fashion creation and “Circle,” where people had a chance to take a part in the discussion devoted to sustainability and circle economy problems.

ITALO MARSEGLIA

Speaking of fashion itself - collections were quite strong and innovative. We saw sexy haute-couture dresses by Sylvio Giardina, romantic Japan-inspired collections of Antonio Martino and Giada Curti, “daily luxury” sustainable women collection by Caterina Moro, several gender-fluid pieces and lots more. Among the standout collections were Federico Cina’s genderless “I bei tempi”, empowering “Omnia” by GALL and extremely adorable “Zoomantic” by Italo Marseglia.

Here are top-three moods we’re stealing from Italians: >>

FALL_20 ISSUE

017

STYLE FILE BALANCED by GALL > Gall in his latest collection entitled “Omnia” used three primary colours of red, green and blue. The main idea is that these three colours usually coexist together in harmony, in balance with each other: feeding off each other’s characteristics to enhance one another.

Just like in nature. The practical functionality of items is always the key in each GALL’s collection: detachable pockets, retractable hoods and modular segments give space for transformability, comfort and easiness in both, everyday and extreme moments. “I want to support men and allow them to be prepared to unexpected situations,” commented Gall. And this stylish way of support made women also to desire to have a piece of this collection too. Including myself.

GENDERLESS by FEDERICO CINA > For the Fall/Winter 2020/21 collection Federico Cina draws inspiration from the photographic archive of Vittorio Tonelli - a writer and a passionate scholar of the history and culture of Emilia-Romagna region where the designer was born.

Rediscovering the stories and testimonies of his beloved Romagna after World War II, Federico Cina decides to immerse himself in the atmosphere of that period. >>

<< “I bei tempi” collection is a real journey through time, a nostalgic return to the past in search of a simple but at the same time romantic and refined beauty. This beauty is expressed through reinterpreting the understanding of “gender”.

“I want every man who’s wearing my items to express his feminine beauty and finally to be free from social labels, including gender,” says Federico.

Models wearing pink heartshaped earrings, long dresses in pastel colours and many more genderless items were created to allow man to feel energetically completed. And honestly, it was absolutely beautiful. < WILD-ROMANTIC by ITALO MARSEGLIA This season, Rome’s most loved designer, Italo Marseglia represents his collection as if it was a safari in the warm memories of childhood stopping at the playful passions of those carefree days.

Italo Marseglia is one of the first designers who followed a path in sustainability: this season he proposes a version of his iconic patchwork with digital sublimation printing on eco-sustainable seaweed fabric. Animal and flower prints on his extremely light and at the same time ‘flirty wild’ dresses were specially made to allow a woman not only to keep her natural feminine beauty but also to feel strong and powerful enough to survive in mysogynistic social jungle. Thank you, Italo. W [ V ]

018

FALL_20 ISSUE

Leaders in Body Contouring Surgery

P L A S T I C S U R G E R Y AT P E R S O N A Sometimes, even the healthiest of diets and vigorous fitness regimens are not enough to achieve the figure you would like to have. We offer a variety of personalised procedures, that include tummy tucks, SmartLipo, and traditional liposuction as well as arm and thigh lifts to help you obtain the physique you aspire to. Our plastic surgeons have years of collective experience helping patients restore better defined, more flattering body contours.

All procedures are performed from our state-of-the-art centre in Taâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Xbiex, where you can be assured of exceptional service and care, quality treatments and most importantly, excellent results.

Discover why Persona is quickly becoming Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading Plastic Surgery Centre by scheduling a consultation with one of our plastic surgeons.

Any surgical procedure carries risks. Always seek prior advice from an appropriately qualified medical practitioner. Image used for illustration purposes only.

P E R S O N A . CO M . M T

STYLE FILE

1. Shoes, €379, Max Mara. 2. Necklace, €35, from vivi. 3. Dress, €499, Sportmax.

4. Bracelet, €16, from vivi. 5. Glasses €104, Ralph Lauren at Optika, Back to School 15% Discount on complete frames for the month of September.

6. Bag, €749, Max Mara. 7. Top, €105, Weekend.

[ AUTUMNAL EQUINOX 1.

2.

3.

5.

4.

7.

6.

020

FALL_20 ISSUE

STYLE FILE

1. Million Parfum, from Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery. 2. Sunglasses, €72, Ray Ban at Optika.

3. T-shirt, €45, Armani Exchange. 4. Computer Bag, €139.90, Tommy Hilfiger 5. Shirt, €85, Armani Exchange. 6. Bag, €99, Calvin Klein Jeans. 7. Belt, €49.90, Calvin Klein. 8. Glasses €116, Ray Ban at Optika. Back to School 15% Discount on complete frames for the month of September at Optika

W + M – FALL > ‘20 1.

2.

]

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

9.

8.

FALL_20 ISSUE

021

INTERVIEW

[ Flipside:â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Creative Explorer > Monika Sed ] SHE DESCRIBES HERSELF AS A CREATIVE NOMAD. MONIKA SED IS A TRUE EXPLORER NOT ONLY IN ACTUAL MILES COVERED, BUT ALSO IN A DAILY ELEVATED AWARENESS AND EXPLORATIONS, RAISING CONSCIOUSNESS AND INSPIRATION THAT IS PROJECTED IN HER WORK. VAMP TALKS WITH THE BUDDING PHOTOGRAPHER ON HER JOURNEY.

022

FALL_20 ISSUE

>Q+A

INTERVIEW

A

From working in places like Los Angeles, what brought you to this little island in the Med? Malta is definitely very pleasing to the eye; a beautiful tiny island.

I got a call from an old friend, to whom I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t say no and in a couple of weeks I was already flying to Malta to photograph two different fashion editorial stories.

Tell us more about your travels and finding your artistic style, what is the most memorable mo-

ment or breakthrough you had during this exploration?

In the last 10 years I got a chance to visit so many places, as well as live in different and uniquely inspiring cities like Beijing, Madrid, London, Los Angeles, and now Barcelona. When we live in one place for a long time, our eye gets used to the same streets, architecture, people... we can fall into a comfort and routine.

I truly believe that the best way to get inspired or make new work, is

to explore, to get to know cultures, or places, where you still need to look at the map for directions, where you can find new places to drink coffee at, or anything that you usually do. Only then we start to notice small details around: new colours, textures, shapes, sounds, facesâ&#x20AC;Ś even silence is different in each place.

All those unseen experiences and moments pile up in our heads and unconsciously we start to create a new pattern, develop new ideas.

Sometimes I get asked >>

Models - Sandy Bogovac Adrian Chabada Photography - Monika Sed Location - Los Angeles.

FALL_20 ISSUE

023

INTERVIEW how I came up with a certain concept, and usually I cannot tell its origins. It’s a combination of things that happened to me in a specific place or moment.

Nonetheless, the most memorable moment in my career was living in Los Angeles. I got to experience being back at school, learning a lot of new and interesting things about the art world, and at the same time building and expanding my professional network. It was also very eye-opening, since I would definitely say that LA is the top of the mountain in the entertainment world. It is the place where competition is very high and never stops, where you have to learn to stand for yourself and how to sell your work. It was the best school, where I would definitely say I learnt the most.

What do you believe is the most important element to get your career started as a fashion photographer? Why? You have to like fashion, be interested in fashion, know trends, basically - understand the industry. It is important because, as anything else in life, if we want to be good at something, we need to understand what it is made from.

You cannot be a fashion photographer, if you don’t care about fashion at all. Also, it is very important to make contact with people who work in the industry. You need to reach out to agencies in order to have access to experienced models, become friends with different fashion brand owners, stylist, makeup artists and so on.

Based on your personal and professional experiences, what are your top 3 tips for new budding photographers?

There are so many tips, that could be useful to anyone, but my top 3 tips would be: First, develop technical skills. I started by assisting, which is the way I learnt how the industry works, how to use a camera, lights, shoot in a studio, retouching ect.

Just 2 years ago, I completed my masters degree in photography. In the beginning I thought I really didn’t need to go to school since I was working in the industry already. But school offered me in depth information about art history, history of photography and many other things.

Knowledge is everything. >>

024

FALL_20 ISSUE

INTERVIEW

FALL_20 ISSUE

025

INTERVIEW

You need to be diverse as a photographer, understand equipment very well; if you shoot people you also must have an understanding of human anatomy.

All this knowledge will help you to become a better photographer.

Second, test, test and test. Practicing is one of the most important parts of your skill development. Explore and experiment to develop your style, understand what you enjoy doing most and work on correcting your weaknesses.

Study other photographersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; work and try to copy it. But not because your intention is to produce the same work or ideas, more so that you would learn how to light the subject, how to retouch images, which angle is the best. >>

026

FALL_20 ISSUE

INTERVIEW

FALL_20 ISSUE

027

INTERVIEW

028

FALL_20 ISSUE

INTERVIEW

Third and the most important, have patience and be good at what you do.

Don’t rush; even though I know myself, how hard it is to be patient, to not see your work in the top magazines, not have as many clients as you wish for or not work with cool brands. I think a key rule is to learn, that in the creative industry, where most of the things are based on “the taste of someone”, hearing “no” is so much more common than hearing “yes”. But it is ok, because it is a process.

And going through it, if photography is truly something you want to dedicate your life for, will give results one day.

Finally, it shouldn’t be about becoming the most recognised photographer, right? It is all about the process to getting there.

What are your plans for the rest of 2020 and any exciting projects we should keep an eye open for?

Funny enough, I am really a “planning person”. I always need to write down things, plan them, make sure that everything is on time and organised. But in 2020 I learnt that “planning” as a word is almost out of my vocabulary.

I still plan things, however instead of looking towards the next 2 months, I normally plan 2-3 days in advance.

For the last 6 months I have been intensively working on my first 2 fine art projects. One is shot during the quarantine and the other one is an old project I shot 3 years ago, but only now it is getting more defined and will finally come out to daylight. I will definitely share more about them on my social media and website. But it will be fine art prints for sale.

And hopefully an exhibition one day. [ V ]

FALL_20 ISSUE

029

PHOTOGRAPHY

[ THE N M COMFORT ZONE ] Reflecting on Isolation and Social Distancing through Photography

030

FALL_20 ISSUE

PHOTOGRAPHY

What does isolation mean to us? How do we feel about it once it’s imposed and our freedom is taken away?

Torn between staying at home and the feeling of losing our freedom of action, photographer and director Anna Radchenko visually explores the concept of isolation through a series of fashion-inspired photographs.

The Comfort Zone ​sees a number of models trapped in glass boxes in different environments. Radchenko reflects on how our homes - usually perceived as beautiful, safe havens to escape to - gradually begin to feel tighter around us.

The longer we are forced to spend there, the more claustrophobic we feel. We are gradually being led to let go of ourselves and adapt to a new and distorted version of reality. Imprisoned, alienated and powerless, our homes become the extent of our world and freedom. >>

[ “Any society willing to give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both” ] – Benjamin Franklin

FALL_20 ISSUE

031

PHOTOGRAPHY

Commenting on the series, Radchenko states: “Although these photos were shot before the international lockdown, they’ve become even more relevant in the current landscape. Much of what we took for granted, including the freedom to leave our homes, go to work and meet people, has been replaced by a growing feeling of uncertainty and confinement.

We find ourselves in an alternate reality, where we have to change our habits and some of our traits as we are spending so much time on our own.” [ V ] About ​Anna Radchenko Anna Radchenko is an award-winning director and multidisciplinary artist from Moscow, who now lives in London. She specialises in short films, music videos, commercials, mixed media editorial projects and art installations.

Graduating with a distinction in MA Fashion Photography from London College of Fashion, Radchenko’s films have been selected by some of the world’s major fashion and short film festivals including Berlin Commercial, Underwire, Aesthetica and LA Fashion Festival. In terms of vision, she uses surreal ideas to create content that is both optically arresting and memorable.

Anna is represented by Kode Media in the UK. www.annaradchenko.com

“We find ourselves in an alternate reality, where we have to change our habits and some of our traits as we are spending so much time on our own.”

032

FALL_20 ISSUE

>

Photographer / Art Director : Anna Radchenko @anna_radchenko Stylist: Kirill Akimov @stylekirillakimov Producer : Anastasia Limarenko @sonic__lee Set design: Ilya Nemirovskij and Vladimir Timofeev at SDS - Setup & Decoration Studio @setup_and_decoration_studio

Make-up: Darya Holodnyh Hair : Marina Melentyeva @marinamelentyeva Light: Alexandr Okovitski @okovitski and Elena Shchurova @elena_shchurova Model: Helen Mitinskaya Special thanks to Geppener Studio @geppener_studio and Roman Novikov @romantravel

PHOTOGRAPHY

FALL_20 ISSUE

033

HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED

HOW TERRAZZO IS MADE Why Terrazzo should be your go to material.

Planetary rotation combined with peripheral scraping shovel to ensure even mixing. Moulds filled and compacted for even distribution of the mixture.

formats

The mould is placed into a chamber where it is rotated under a vacuum to encourage a homogeneous mix by removing any additional air pockets. Blocks remain for one day pre-curing in mould.

Halmann Vella's architectural terrazzo slabs are available in slabs up to 300cm x 120cm and in floor tiles of 60cm x 120cm and 120cm x 120cm.

Blocks are de-moulded and allowed to cure for 28 days under humid conditions. Blocks are cut based on clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s requirements with standard thickness of slabs starting from 20mm, 30mm, 40mm and 50mm. Other thickness can be provided on request.

The blocks can be transformed into slabs or organic 3D elements. The size of the block lends itself to the creation of large format tiles, vanity tops, counters, toilet cubical and curbs at a lower cost and better quality, when compared to casting into individual moulds. This method is by far the most costeffective manner of producing stairs and cladding.

Slab Size: 300 x 120

60 x 120

Halmann Vella stocks a range of various marble/granite aggregate sizes and colours originating from various locations in Europe. Aggregates are weighed and batched. Custom mix designs are easily achieved. The standard minimum order quantity is one block using standard, stock aggregates.

120 x 120

*measurements given in centimetres

3D shapes ideas 28 DAYS

under humid conditions

Standard block of dimensions 3m x 1.2m x 0.7m

TRENDING

[ Check List: ] L’Oiseau by Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, 2011 L’Oiseau, an avian figure of archaic simplicity, is reminiscent of the unpretentious artefacts of Nordic folk art. Its sleek form attractively enriches contemporary interiors without the cuteness or even tackiness so commonly associated with animal figures.

Chaise Tout Bois, Jean Prouvé, 1941 Chaise Tout Bois by Vitra corresponds to one of Jean Prouvé’s design variants from 1941, whose construction does not require a single screw. The height and seat geometry meet the norms and requirements of the Standard chair. The warm look and feel of wood contrasts with the practical structural design, which is typical of Prouvé’s functional approach.

Grand Relax & Ottoman by Antonio Citterio, 2019 Grand Relax is a luxurious reclining lounge chair combining outstanding comfort with compact dimensions and a classic understated aesthetic. When sitting down, the user sinks into the soft cushions, and the chair reclines thanks to an integrated and adjustable synchronised mechanism concealed within the seat. Grand Relax appears both compact and inviting.

Guéridon table by Jean Prouvé,1949 The Guéridon table is a convincing demonstration of clear structural principles. This wooden table is a variation of Prouvé's architecturally informed design vocabulary in a natural material, proving that modern tables do not have to be made out of steel and glass.

L’Oiseau by Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, 2011 L’Oiseau, an avian figure of archaic simplicity, is reminiscent of the unpretentious artefacts of Nordic folk art. Its sleek form attractively enriches contemporary interiors without the cuteness or even tackiness so commonly associated with animal figures.

036

FALL_20 ISSUE

All Available from Vitra at Vivendo, Mdina Road, Qormi, QRM9011. Follow on Instagram @vivendoprojects

Eames Lounge Chair & Ottoman, Charles & Ray Eames, 1956 The Lounge Chair, created by Charles and Ray Eames in the 1950s, was designed with the aim of combining an elegant appearance with ultimate comfort. It has been produced by Vitra using virtually the same methods ever since, and is now recognised as a great classic of twentieth-century furniture design. Offered in two sizes and various configurations with different types of leather upholstery covers, wooden shells and bases, the Lounge Chair is ideally complemented by the matching Ottoman.

Starting from €370* incl. VAT per month. *Terms and conditions apply. Various models available. Interest-free rates apply as per Vivendo finance payment scheme of 18 months.

Available at your exclusive, local Vitra dealer: Vivendo Group, Mdina Road, Qormi, QRM 9011 · Francesca Puglisi · 7709 1133 · fpuglisi@vivendo.mt · vivendo.mt

www.vitra.com/loungechair

ARCHITECTURE

ng

pi

ep St

[ARC– HI TEC TUR E]

k

r Pa us

Ho e

VAMP explores a recent project by Vietnam-based architecture firm VTN Architects – a model house that addresses environmental and health concerns in urban areas. >>

038

FALL_20 ISSUE

ARCHITECTURE

FALL_20 ISSUE

039

ARCHITECTURE

Located in a new residential area of Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historical and bustling Ho Chi Minh City is Stepping Park House.

This residential project is situated adjacent to a green public space, a rare opportunity for this now congested city. Stepping Park House becomes an extension of its environment by integrated the green of the park into the interior space of the house.

A large void was created by cutting the volume through the three floors, in the diagonal direction of the section.

On the ground floor, the void serves as a living room, open to the park. On the top floor as a green covered family room. The façade surrounding the void is covered with ivy plants. Louvres provide shade on the top floor. The void incorporates both circulation elements and natural elements like plants and trees, providing the private rooms with additional natural light. It gives a feeling of continuity of the park, to all three floors of the building. >> 040

FALL_20 ISSUE

ARCHITECTURE

FALL_20 ISSUE

041

ARCHITECTURE

042

FALL_20 ISSUE

...”The house aims to create an environment similar to a forest, despite being indoors.”....

> FALL_20 ISSUE

043

ARCHITECTURE

Contradictory to the common spaces, private rooms such as bedrooms are placed in solid volumes. Given the hot climate in Ho Chi Minh, planting trees in the opening of these volumes blocks direct sunlight, cools the wind and brightens up the interior space with green.

The void that is opened diagonally upwards brings natural ventilation through the house, as a result of the chimney effect. In that way the use of air conditioners is minimized.

Walking through the space, one will feel the wind moving from the living room to the top floor of the house. Green facade eases the intense sunshine of the tropical climate.

The model becomes a precedent for housing in tropical climates. This house is one of the latest projects in a housing series called â&#x20AC;&#x153;House for Treesâ&#x20AC;?. The shortage of green space in Vietnam is causing environmental problems such as urban flooding, overheating and air pollution. Presenting a solution to this problem is an urgent challenge that architecture needs to address. >>

044

FALL_20 ISSUE

ARCHITECTURE

FALL_20 ISSUE

045

ARCHITECTURE

VTN architects integrates green as much as possible even in small houses, creating pockets of park in the city, and eventually aim for the “green building” to spread to the world. [ V ] Project name: Stepping ParkHouse Status: completed 2018 Location: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Site Area: 252 m2 GFA: 475m2 Design Firm: VTN Architects(Vo Trong Nghia Architects) Principal Architects: Vo Trong Nghia, Hidetoshi SawaProject Architects: Nguyen Van Thien Photography: Hiroyuki Oki Contractor: Wind and Water House JSC

046

FALL_20 ISSUE

Interior Architecture & Design by VK Design Studio. www.violetkulewska.com

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Private Residence ARCHITECTURAL TERRAZZO AND CERAMIC TILES

www.halmannvella.com

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com

ART

048

FALL_20 ISSUE

ART

[ PAUBHA ] 21ST CENTURY DHARMA Words Hannah Cremona – Photography Niranjan Shrestha In the ancient town of Lalitpur, in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal, we enter a new realm of art. In a hidden alley, we discover a conspicuous space that combines profound technical perfection and mental patience that gives birth to works that transcend art and enters the realm of Dharma.

Hannah Cremona meets Nepali traditional artist Lok Chitrakar, also known as ‘the Maker and Saver of Paubha’ and Norbu Gurung, Art Curator. >>

FALL_20 ISSUE

049

ART LOK, a recent exhibition held in Kathmandu, Nepal, is the journey of an artist, a father, a son, a teacher and student. Throughout a four-decade career, Lok Chitrakar has created a lasting legacy for Paubha, a traditional Newari art. The exhibition depicts the journey to getting to the point of mastery of ones art.

The sacred art form of Paubha is a visual interpretation of the Buddhist and Hindu philosophies as practiced in the Vajrayana tradition. Lok Chitrakar begins by explaining, “the language background behind this word is important to note…” giving context to the multi-ethnicity of the Kathmandu valley and its various influences from Sanskrit, Tibetan and Mongolian languages and cultures.

The name ‘Paubha’ is derived from Newari language – a Tibetan-Bhurmese language, spoken by the Nepali ‘Newars’, an ethnic group of Nepal.

Simply put, Paubha means the picture of God. Based on this concept, “the painting of God,” is used in different circumstances. Lok Chitrakar explains, “The symbolic art has many types of moods.

Some may use Paubha for meditation, or spiritual teachers may use the art to teach dharma, culture and philosophies. It serves as an illustration to tell a story of the divine.”

“It is a simplification of spiritual texts so that the layman can understand,” adds Norbu, art curator. The traditional art must follow a line of work to be a Paubha. Lok continues, “an artist can paint any divine image but it must have a source, because this is a symbolism painting.”

Paubha Through The Ages As he guided me through his intricate works displayed in various rooms of his studio it became easier to recognise the different styles that one can use when painting Paubha. Despite various influences, “the objective of the Paubha remains the same – to depict a spiritual theme.”

050

FALL_20 ISSUE

“A new school is emerging,” Norbu Adds. “The new debatable style is a more contemporary western style. It brings to question, what is Paubha in the 21st century?”

Lok continues to explain, “In the new ‘Western academic’ way of painting Paubha, artists are introducing light and shade as done in the western style. But traditionally, in Paubha, we use ‘gradiation’. Although I follow the traditional guidelines, my works have also progressed over the years. The oldest Paubha we know did not have landscapes. There were only motifs.”

Most notable stylistic changes started from the 17th century with the addition of motifs such as cloud symbols, skies and lotus from the Tibetan art. Furthermore, Paubha was influenced from Mogul art with prominent ‘half’ profile faces, and garments and objects from Mogul culture. “Paubha over the years has developed into fusion devotion art.”

“In the oldest definition (of Paubha) you cannot have scenery in the background. It has to be a certain motif as

a background. And slowly, with influence from Mogul Empire, China and Tibet the scenery has changed; this is a huge development, subtle but huge,” Norbu added. >>

[...“Art is not just an expression of one’s imagination.

It is also an indepth look into an artists’ soul. What he’s going through, experiencing and the reality that he is living”...]

–Norbu Gurung

ART

FALL_20 ISSUE

051

ART

Intricate, minute details of motifs and objects are seen as you closely study the works. Chitrakar continues to explain the themes, scriptures and motifs behind each of the works; each worthy of writing a book in its own right! As we continue to attentively consume Dharma teachings whilst sipping on tea, stories flow through Lok, pointing at microscopic elements and motifs, each illustrating a story or record of events.

Pointing at a large size print of ‘Chitamani Lokeshwara’, he explains the various styles and addition of elements used within the theme. “Here there is more artistic freedom working in Mandala. There isn’t complete freedom - you need to follow some rigidness…” Lok adds with a sense of careful humour, “I cannot place a rocket or a bicycle here!”

A chilly breeze carrying a singing voice

052

FALL_20 ISSUE

of a nearby person flows through the window as Lok explains the rules for Paubha that one must follow.

that we can paint following colour, gestures, objects, etc which is written in the script.” ‘

“There are 4 rules I follow in Paubha: Bidhan – this is the constitution, the story that sets the rules according to traditional iconography and scripture.

Parampara – this is the stylistic tradition you want to choose to illustrate the story. Udeshe – this is the object/s used to receive virtue. In the case of Chitamani Lokeshwara, the virtue is to distribute to all beings. Fal – this is the fruit, the result of the Paubha in its totality. The result is unseen, but indicated by the artist.”

108’ is a recurring reference in Budhhism. Chitrakar further elaborates, “108 is our mental state of being – impurities of our minds. To care for this there are 108 types of compassion practices. 108 Lokeshwara proposed 108 types of medicine to cure our mental and emotional impurities.”

In his recent exhibition, 108 Lokeshwvara were displayed in a cosy setting in a boutique gallery in Kathmandu.

“Whoever does good for the world, all are Lokeshwvara. There are thousands of Lokeshwara names… but we only have iconography of 108 Lokeshwara

Mineral Paints A fascinating discovery was that Lok still paints using traditional herbal and mineral dyes. Vibrant and striking colours that still brightly cover pieces of work that have been under progress for over two decades! “In my painting, until its possible, I use ancient tradition techniques. Nowadays it’s very hard to source, since chemical paint colour is found in the marketplace. >>

ART

FALL_20 ISSUE

053

ART

We need to do it ourselves in the studio. I use herbal medicines, minerals and stones; for example cinnabar that’s used for medicine, I use its pigment for painting.”

I peaked through his colour cabinet to find a variety of minerals, stones, herbs and powders. “I crush vermilion using a traditional stone pestle and mortar to obtain its vibrant red. The same black used as eyeliner, Kajal, is what I use for black. I get light blue from Lapiz… white from Japanese shell powder; previously we used limestone but this is hard to find here... If we have black, red, yellow, white and blue, we can make any colour.”

054

FALL_20 ISSUE

ART

[...“Understandably, the concept is very hard to teach and explain; today, artists and youth are not ready to commit to this lifelong learning and progression.”...]

Preservation of Traditional Art “The art scene in Kathmandu is growing in general. But first of all we need to introduce the understanding of traditional art in the education system,” Lok begins to suggest. “Unlike before, we don’t have the concept of developing a ‘Guru-chela’ (spiritual teacher – student) relationship anymore. Who will learn this lengthy and complex understanding of Dharma and Bidhan? Right now, there is no systematic way of learning Paubha.”

Understandably, the concept is very hard to teach and explain; today, artists and youth are not ready to commit to this life-long learning and progression. “We need to introduce Paubha in a ‘new generation’ way that is attractive to young learners,” Lok added.

“Back in the old days, people believed that this kind of knowledge should be kept secret. Our art and culture are in no way second to that of the west. While they had Leonardo da Vinci and the likes, we had our own master painters and craftsmen. The only problem is that we didn’t keep any records.” Chitrakar

and his contemporaries are now sharing their knowledge with as many promising artists to ensure that Paubha survives and continues.

“In the 50s or 60s, the Paubha tradition was almost lost – it has somehow revived because of tourism.” When Nepal opened its borders to tourism, this opened a new opportunity for artists like Lok to revive the art; although this can take decades. “I can’t say it’s rapidly growing, but somehow the desire to paint Paubha is growing. Very few are taking interest because it takes a lot of time. Not only artists can preserve this art; we need curators, critics, public support, sponsors – all of this is not happening. The young should join – but the environment for younger generation to choose this field is very low; they have less patience.”

Chitrakar’s studio, Simrik Atelier, aims to make this uniquely Nepali art form accessible to everyone by offering self-empowered technical knowledge, especially people from underprivileged, minority backgrounds and women, “a minority among Paubha artists” to take up the profession.

Paubha as a lifestyle Clearly, Paubha is not just art. “This is life. If you can dedicate your life to art, not as “I’m working in art,” but breathe art – if you can think and live like that you can continue. Paubha is not done just for arts sake. Paubha is everything to me.”

“For me, this is a progress about destroying self-ignorance and ego. Now when I finish a Paubha, I don’t carry the thought or ego that says ‘ah I painted it!” Chitrakar humbly continues to explain his role in Paubha. “If I separate the objects in that painting, I cannot find anything that points to me –I’m just the person who made the colour and put it.

There’s canvas, there’s colour, there’s brush strokes – but in the name of painting, you cannot say, or see anything that’s me. The canvas is not painting, the subject is not painting, the stroke is not painting – you will not find anything.

So why should I carry the ego and think

“I painted a very nice painting”?

Paubha Traditional Art in 21st Century So in reality, what role does ancient Dharma have in today’s age? “People in the past are same as people today – everyone wants to seek happiness,” Chitrakar confidently suggests.

Norbu, who has seen much talent in Nepal and overseas working as an art curator, paints a more realistic picture.

“If society lets it, it will have a place. The educational system doesn’t teach traditional art, we are taught modern art.

I never knew about mineral paint, I only discovered it when I came to this studio.

Today, many artists want to finish their work quickly, and have a strong desire to acquire a certain lifestyle in a prestigious art scene – but this contradicts what Dharma is. How many people can even decipher Paubha? Can artists slow down in today’s world?”

“In society such traditional art is very important. I think with the youth, not so much, because it sort of contradicts their lifestyle – you can’t believe in something that makes you feel ‘guilty’ about the way you are living. But as a society we need it. If we ever have a conversation with colleagues and friends, it’s always the same thing: lack of empathy, lack of love, lack of understanding. A lot of such ‘lack’ can be found in Paubha. It is really important for today, but for it to have impact, organisations like us is not enough – it’s the government’s job to step up and promote culture.” Norbu adds.

Traditional Paubha can be seen at Simrik Atelier in Patan, Nepal. [ V ]

FALL_20 ISSUE

055

DESIGN

AYA BAPANI – KAZAKHSTAN

Aya Bapani is an internationally acclaimed fashion designer from Kazakhstan, with a distinctive style. She is easily identifiable and loved worldwide due to her hand-made wool dyeing techniques and an intricate combination of both feminine dresses, and bright jackets with Kazakh national symbols. Despite her young age she promotes a new direction in fashion, the so-called “Kazakh neoclassicism”.

056

FALL_20 ISSUE

DESIGN

[ ...“I was always surrounded by creative people who cultivated the love of art and beauty withiin me.”... ]

Aya Bapani was born to a noble artists family. They are well known throughout Central Asia for their felt artworks. Aya achieved great success in the wool processing industry and broke the stereotype that felt is a rough material and is not always pleasant to touch. And this, according to Aya, affected her choice of materials for her fashion works. “I was always surrounded by creative people who cultivated the love of art and beauty within me. I always knew I would become a designer. I wanted to make a contribution to Kazakh fashion. Why you may ask? Because clothing has always been one of the important indicators of our culture”.

What are her main sources of inspiration for her fascinating creations? Aya is quick to reply.

“I would have to say the nobleness and patience of Kazakh women. The way how Kazakh woman can love, forgive, and sacrifice herself for her family. Each woman has her own story, inner world and richness of her soul. I bow to my mother who taught me how to respect and to love my family, and others around me . In every collection I try to aesthetically reveal the image of this multifaceted power of a Woman of Steppes, who can be a mother, a flower, a warrior and a sorceress in one body”.

For her bespoke collections she uses the concept of female Kazakh outfits from Bronze Age (the third millennium BC - a time of a matriarchy) which she conveys through the beautiful national patterns and the use of natural materials such as felt and silk. >>

FALL_20 ISSUE

057

DESIGN

“My favourite material is felt. Felt is the oldest material that holds a very important place in the life of nomads.

Felt creates an excellent microclimate for the human body; it maintains its temperature, regulates humidity and has many other benefits. I improved the technology and quality of felt by making it thinner, softer, more flexible and more durable” adds Aya. “It is also worth noting that all the patterns and Kazakh

058

FALL_20 ISSUE

ornaments I use in my collections have sacred meanings.

In ancient times they were used as a protection from dark forces,or brought happiness and good luck. Nowadays, all Kazakh ritual ceremonies - weddings, funerals or ethnic holidays are decorated with ornaments. This is a part of the history of the Kazakh people, a tribute to its customs and traditions. Ornaments contain the cultural identity of Kazakhstan. I want every person who wears my clothes to feel the power of our culture” says Aya proudly. >>

DESIGN

FALL_20 ISSUE

059

DESIGN

060

FALL_20 ISSUE

DESIGN

Aya’s designs are deeply rooted with Kazakh tradition and culture – how does this play an important part in today’s fashion for today’s modern woman one may ask.

“I find it’s always inspirational if there is a connection with genetic roots. To the women who wear these kinds of clothes, it gives more strength to her spirit, and more confidence. It allows her to feel complete in a way. Because it is an expression of love to yourself: through wearing such clothes, you express love to your origins. I think it is a good feature when you have at least twenty percent of a hint of clothing on one’s ethnic origin in your outfit. I do it myself”.

Aya was recognised as the “Best Fashion Designer of Central Asia-2013” according to Fashion TV Central Asia. The same year she was also awarded the “Original Design” award from the International Fashion Festival in Milan.

Representatives of Vogue China highly appreciated her collections. They noted a “special style that combines elements of the image of nomads with modernity”, which makes the collection relevant in today’s modern fashion. >>

FALL_20 ISSUE

061

DESIGN

When it comes to who her dream person to dress would be, Aya responds, “She is free, independent, brave, bright and unusual. She is not afraid to express her feelings, views that can be expressed with the help of clothes. You can immediately notice her in the crowd. My ideal woman always remembers her roots. She focuses on her origin and does it in a competent and very modern way”. Before we part ways, Aya adds, “Don’t be afraid of being different. After all, a woman should always remain a mystery”. [ V ]

062

FALL_20 ISSUE

DESIGN

FALL_20 ISSUE

063

CHOW DOWN

Pork Fillet, Panko Crust, Pork Cheek, Pork Brain Parfait, Apple Spheres, Heritage Carrot Sphere, Apple Chutney, Potato Spiral, Watercress Pesto, Puffed Rice, Sauce.

064

FALL_20 ISSUE

CHOW DOWN

Nothing brings people together like good food â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Corinthia Palace Chefs, Matthew Darmanin & Reuben Borg present three mind blowing plates to test your skills.

[ CHOW DOWN ]

FALL_20 ISSUE

065

CHOW DOWN

Asian Pandan Cake, Coconut Cremeux, Spiced Tangerine Sorbet

066

FALL_20 ISSUE

CHOW DOWN

Oat Biscuit Tart, Double Baked Souffle, Muscat Grapes, Spring onion, Ras El Hanout Sauce, Spiced Apple Puree, Pistachio and Cayenne Crisp, Asparagus Sheep cheese Espuma.

FALL_20 ISSUE

067

CHOW DOWN LOCAL PORK DISH PG: 62 Chef: Reuben Borg at Corinthia Palace Hotel Prep time 2hrs Cooking time 1hr Featuring: Pork Fillet, Panko Crust, Pork Cheek, Pork Brain Parfait, Apple Spheres, Heritage Carrot Sphere, Apple Chutney, Potato Spiral, Watercress Pesto, Puffed Rice, Sauce.

Fresh Pork Stock: 2 Pig Heads 3 Fennel 2 Chilli 50g Coriander Seeds 1 bunch Parsley Stalks 3 Leeks 500ml Sake 10lts Water Boil over night and later reduce by half.

For the Pork Fillet: Pan sear the pork fillet (allow 180g per person) in oil, finish with some butter and thyme. Place on a tray and finish off in the oven until temp reaches 63°C, leave to rest for 5 minutes.

For the Panko Crust: 50g Panko 30g Coriander Smoked Salt Lime Zest Method: Blend the herbs and later add the panko until mixture comes crumbly and green in colour.

For the Pork Cheek: 2 Pork Cheek (approximate 100g each cheek, trimmed weight) 1.2l Pork Stock Method: Seal the pork cheeks in a pan and transfer in the pot with the stock.

Cook for 2 hours until cheeks are soft.

Transfer the cooking liquid into a pan and reduce to use as a sauce.

Pigs Brain Parfait: 40g Shallots, diced 10g Garlic 20 Fennel Seeds 40ml Brandy Lime Zest 60g Clarified Butter 4 Pigs Brain 2 Eggs Smoked Salt Method: Sweat shallots, garlic and fennel seeds. Add the whiskey and burn. Zest 1 lime.

Pass the brain through a drum-sieve and into the blender along with the cooked items.

Add the eggs, salt and clarified and blend.

Vacuum-pack, cook in boiling water for about 15 minutes. Blend and cool.

068

FALL_20 ISSUE

For the Watercress Pesto: 70g Hazelnuts, roasted 80g Watercress Picked 60g Parmesan, grated 1 Lime Juice 40ml Oil Pinch Smoked Salt Method: Pick the watercress leaf and blanch in hot water for 10 seconds. Place in ice water bath.

Place the grated Parmesan into a blender, along with the roasted hazelnuts and watercress. Add the oil and lime juice and blend until fine.

For the Spiced Apple Chutney: 2 Granny Smith Apple, cubed.

30g Brown Sugar Pinch Cayenne 3 Juniper Berries 50g Maple 100ml White Wine 50ml White Wine Vinegar Method: Sauté cubed apples into a hot pan, caramelize with brown sugar with maple and lastly add white wine and vinegar. Reduce until apple translucent and sticky.

For the Puffed rice: 50g Wild Rice Method: Take a pot with oil and heat up to 230°C. Place the rice and leave for roughly 5 seconds until rice is emerged to the surface and puffed. Remove and place onto a dripping cloth.

For the Potato spiral: 1 potato, peeled 200g Clarified butter Method: Heat up a little clarified butter to a liquid consistency. Make potato ribbons by placing potato into spiralizer. Place the ribbons into clarified butter.

Wrap the potato along cannoli molds and fry until golden brown. Then carefully remove from the cannoli mold.

For the Heritage carrots: 2 Carrots Method: Use a melon baller to form sphere like shapes from the carrot, blanch and later finish off in the sauce.

Assembly of the plate: Take the pork fillet and brush with pork glaze, and roll into the herb Panko crust. Cut into two round with 1cm each.

Glaze the pork cheeks with the reduced stock as to get a nice sheen. Place some puffed rice on top and some flowers.

Place the watercress pesto on the bottom of the plate.

Plate the fillet and the pork cheek.

Quenelle the apple jam.

Place the potato spiral on the plate and pipe the pig brain parfait into the filling of the spiral. Place 4 spheres of carrots and apple and lastly garnish with some cress.

Serve sauce by the side.

ASIAN PANDAN CAKE, COCONUT CREMEUX, SPICED TANGERINE SORBET PG: 64 Chefs: Matthew Darmanin & Reuben Borg at Corinthia Palace Hotel Prep Time 1.5 hrs Ingredients for the Pandan Cake: 67.5g sugar 45g vegetable oil 45g coconut milk 10 egg whites 10 egg yolks 15 Pandan Leaf 37.5g Self Raising Flour Cream of tartare Method: Whisk egg yolk with half sugar, add remaining ingredients besides the egg whites and rest of the sugar. Whisk the egg whites and fold into the mix, bake for 15 minutes at a temperature of 180°C. Ingredients for Coconut Cremeux: 1/4 cup cold water 1 and 1/2 tablespoons powdered gelatin 3/4 cup coconut milk canned 3/4 cup cream of coconut Pinch of salt 1 and 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons white sugar Method: Heat the coconut milk, cream of coconut, salt and sugar mix in the gelatine.

Fold in the whipped cream allow to set. Place the mix into a plastic cylinder and leave to set in the freezer.

Spiced Tangerine Sorbet: 400ml Stock Syrup 500ml Tangerine Puree 50g Glucose 10g Mixed Spice Method: Heat up all the ingredients until boiling point. Transfer into an ice cream machine.

Ingredients for the Tangerine Gelee: 200g Tangerine Puree 5g Agar Agar 100g Stock Syrup Method: Heat up liquids and dissolve the agar agar. Place in a tray to cool in the fridge. >>

CHOW DOWN When set take out from the fridge and blend.

Ingredients for Dark Chocolate Crumbs: 100ml water 100g sugar 100g dark chocolate Method: Reduce the water and sugar until caramelized, add the chocolate and whisk over a cool surface until it becomes crumbly in texture.

Ingredients for Brandy Snap: 50g butter 50g brown sugar 50g golden syrup 50g plain flour, sifted 1 tsp brandy Method: Heat the butter and the sugar along with the golden syrup. When the butter and sugar have dissolved mix with the flour, add the brandy. When the mix is like a thick paste, roll into a baking sheet to become like a sausage.

Cut 1cm thick and place onto a baking tray with a baking sheet and cook for about 15 minites until even golden brown colour.

Remove from the oven and roll onto a cannoli mould as to set into a thick cigar shape.

Ingredients for Sake Gel: 50ml Sake wine 50ml 1.9g Agar agar Method: Heat up the sake wine to 65°C and add the agar agar. Transfer onto a tray and chill. When set, cut into cubes of 1cm by 1cm Assembly of the plate: Cut the Pandan cake into a rectangle, same size of the brandy snap cannoli.

Cut the coconut cremaux into the same size of the cannoli and place inside of the brandy snap. Place on top of the Pandan cake.

Garnish with mandarin gel and some cresses.

Place the dark chocolate crumbs on the side and place the sorbet on top.

Add the honeycomb texture garnishes on the sorbet and the brandy snap cannoli.

LOCAL CHEESE STARTER PG: 65 Featuring: Oat Biscuit Tart, Double Baked Souffle, Muscat Grapes, Spring onion, Ras El Hanout Sauce, Spiced Apple Puree, Pistachio and Cayenne Crisp, Asparagus Sheep cheese Espuma.

By Matthew Darmanin Prep time: 1 hour Cooking time: 45 minutes

For the Oat Biscuit: 125g Wholemeal Flour 134g Jumbo Oats 145g Melted Butter 2.5g bicarbonate of soda 1egg 50g Sugar Pinch of Salt

Spring onion & Sheep cheese infused with Ras el Hanout: 3 medium sized spring onions 30g butter salted 100g grated Sheep cheese 250ml Fresh Cream Salt 1 tsp Ras el Hanout

Method: Add all the dry ingredients in a mixer with a K beater attachment. Whisk an egg and add to the mixer. Melt the butter and slowly add to the mixing bowl to make a dough. Roll out the dough between 2 baking sheets and let it rest for 1 hour. Use a 7cm tart ring and lay the dough on top and gently press into the ring. Bake at 180°C for 10 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp

Method: Slice the spring onions and sweat in a pan with butter. Add the cream a let it boil. Add the grated cheese, pinch of salt and whisk. Blend the sauce and pass it through a chinois.

Ingredients for Double Baked Souffle: 30g Butter 30g flour 210l Milk, warmed 100g White Sheep cheese Garlic Oil Dijon Mustard 3 egg yolks 3 egg whites Salt Mixed Spice Method: Melt the butter and add the flour to create a roux. Add the warm milk slowly and continuously whisking to avoid any lumps.

Add the garlic oil, Dijon Mustard and the grated cheese.

Separate 3 eggs and add the yolks with the mixture. Whisk the egg whites and fold into the mixture.

Brush the molds with butter and grated sheep cheese. Put the mixture and bake for 180°C for 12 minutes.

Take out the souffle from the mold and put it in the oven again for 3 minutes.

Ingredients for the Apple Puree: 6 Red Apples 100g Sugar 75ml Water Star Anise/Cinnamon 60g butter Method: Peel the apples and cut in cubes.

Add the rest of the ingredients. Cover with parchment paper and bake in an oven 180°C for 20 minutes.

Ingredients for the Peppered Sheep cheese Espuma: 6 Peppered Sheep cheese 200ml Fresh Cream Method: Put in a pot and whisk together.

Bring up to the boil and pass through a fine sieve. Put in siphon and add 2 cream chargers.

Sheep cheese, pistachio, Cayenne Crisp: 100g sheep cheese 30g pistachio, roasted Pinch of Cayenne Method: Grate sheep cheese and roasted pistachios over a baking sheet with a pinch of cayenne. Put in over on 150°C for 8 minutes.

For the Asparagus: 3 asparagus Olive oil Salt Method: Blanch the asparagus and toss it with olive oil and salt.

For the Muscat Grapes: 6 grapes 150ml sugar 75ml sake 75ml water Method: Put sugar, sake and water in a pot and bring to the boil, add the grapes. Cover the pot for 15 minutes and let it rest. Put in the oven for 5 minutes.

Assembly of plate: Place the oat biscuit in the middle of the plate.

Place the Espuma on top of the biscuit Cover with the crisp on top and garnish with one asparagus. Place the souffle on top.

Place the apple puree on both sides of the plate, place the Muscat grapes and the remaining asparagus.

Drizzle some chive oil around the plate.

FALL_20 ISSUE

069

BEAUTY

BRIGHTEN UP As summer begins to die down, we check out some of the most wanted beauty products trending this season

POLAAR ETERNAL SNOW YOUTHFUL PROMISE CREAM This anti-ageing cream revitalises the skin by giving it the power to regenerate. The flowers of Nunatak stem cells, in association with other flower extracts, stimulate tissular regeneration, correct the signs of ageing, and improve significantly the clarity of the skin by erasing red patches and imperfections. Elasticity and firmness has been found to increase by 15 % and Hydration by 41%, while red patches and imperfections are reduced, leaving a soft and satiny finish. Exclusively available from Ta’Xbiex Perfumery and leading pharmacies

EFFICIENT ALONE. UNSTOPPABLE TOGETHER. Sunscreens alone only protect skin from 55% of the damage from the sun, however when combined with a topical antioxidant, the skin is offered up to 96% protection against UV-induced photo-damage and skin cancer. Always pair a sunscreen with an antioxidant for double defense against daily damage. SkinCeuticals Advanced Skin Care products are Persona in Ta’ Xbiex.

LIP MILKY MOUSSE This deliciously coloured and creamy melt-in balm immediately infuses your lips with colour and embraces them with a velvetysatin finish. The texture delicately lines your lips, leaving them with a light and airy feel, just like whipped cream. Enhanced with the Anti-Pollution complex to protect the skin from environmental effects. Apply with ease with its cushion applicator. Available at all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

070

FALL_20 ISSUE

BEAUTY

CLARINS WONDER PERFECT MASCARA 4D WATERPROOF Say goody-bye to smudging and running mascara! Clarin’s multi-dimensional mascara is enriched with plant extracts and blue lotus wax to add volume and protect the lashes.

The iconic brush distributes the perfect amount of mascara and creates intense definition for flawless 4D eyes with visibly lengthened and thickened lashes intensified with natural black pigments.

JOLI BLUSH A star strong-hold blush for a truly colourful experience. Special ‘tint’ pigments give your cheeks an ultra-pigmented boost in just one step, plus it has an adjustable screen so you can amp it up to match your mood. The Joli Blush has a soft and lightweight texture that lets your skin breathe. In just one step It smooths the skin’s texture... For absolutely irresistible cheeks! Available at all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

Available at all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

CLARINS INSTANT PORELESS MATIFYING PRIMER Instant Poreless is a shine-defying, emulsion gel make-up primer with matifying Organic Strawberry Tree fruit extract that blurs the appearance of pores and imperfections, creating a smooth canvas for make-up application.

Skin looks clear, matte and practically pore-less, thanks to the lightweight, oil-absorbing texture- #selfieready without the filters! Available at all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

SO SCANDAL! The very essence of a scandal. Orange blossom, so bright, Sambac jasmine so opulent and tuberose so powdery: a threesome of white flowers that one could have sworn would deliver an angelic sweetness. Juicy raspberry, a gourmet milkiness with sexy undertones presses all the carnal buttons. A simple aphrodisiac, a deadly weapon that’s deeply erotic. Exclusively available from Ta’Xbiex Perfumery and leading pharmacies

FALL_20 ISSUE

071

WELL BEING

[ 7 > Yoga poses to help youWords: Adam Reeve

H

aving a good night’s rest is crucial if you want to be at the top of your game the following day.

Adam Reeve shares his bedtime Yoga Asanas for a restful sleep.

1

Butterfly Pose: This is one of the most popular yoga poses. Sit down on a mat or your bed and bring your left foot to the right’s foot inner thigh. Do the same to the right foot. Straighten your back and place your hands on your thighs.

Thanks to busy schedules, sleeping well has nowadays become a real challenge for many people. It has been found that certain yoga poses can help you sleep better. A study carried out had over 55% of the participants say that they slept better after practicing yoga before bedtime.

If you want to achieve the best results, it is advisable to use props to support yourself while on different stances to make the experience more fulfilling.

Another beneficial secret when practicing yoga stances to help you sleep better is to use MCT (Medium Chain Triglycerides) oil supplements. They are effective in increasing energy levels thus help you exercise better. It’s recommended to carry out your own research to buy the best MCT oil for ketosis for maximum benefits.

So roll out your mat and have a go at some of these poses.

3

Twisted Roots: With this stance, you should lie on your back. Fold your knees and move your feet to one side. Make sure that your torso faces upwards even as you bring your feet to the side. You can move feet to the other side as you maintain your upper body in the same position.

072

FALL_20 ISSUE

2

The Waterfall: The waterfall is one of the yoga poses that can be done in bed. It is a great pose to relieve your lower body and also calm your nervous system. Do this pose by bringing your knees to your chest and extending your legs to a 90-degrees angle. You can bend your knees or straighten them up, then take 10–15 deep breaths.

WELL BEING

get a better nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleep... ] 4

Wide Knee Childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pose: For this pose, kneel on the floor and bring your big toes together. Then separate your knees as wide as your hips.

Stretch your hands out forward and place your palms on the floor. Do all this while your forehead is on the floor. Breathe slowly through your nose. This is one of the easiest, and the best yoga poses to help you sleep.

5

Corpse Pose: Lie down on your back. Take a deep breath as you hold your knees towards your chest. Breathe out as you stretch your legs on the mat. Make sure that your feet are apart as you stretch them forward. Relax your lower back and your shoulders.

A study carried out had over 55% of the participants say that they slept better after practicing yoga before bedtime.

6

Standing Forward Pose: Standing forward pose also helps to improve your balance. For this posture, separate your legs to the width of your hips. Take a deep breath.

Breathe out as you bend forward such that your forehead is making its way towards your knees. Bend as much as comfortable, make sure that you do not strain. It is also not necessary to touch the floor with your hands as the aim is to stretch the spinal cord.

7

Viparita Karani (legs up the wall): This is a simple pose where you lie back into a mat.

Lift your legs so that they are flush with the wall. Stretch your arms by your side in a relaxed manner.

FALL_20 ISSUE

073