Salon Magazine, April 2011

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

the style guide

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The latest on cuts, texture, nails and more april 11 $5 salon52.ca

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DISCOVER THE INSPIRING WORLD OF REDKEN http://www.redken.ca/Intra_force_science

EDUCATION BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SCIENCE FASHION INSPIRATION

Download a QR code scanner from the APP store/ APP world and scan me!

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30 DAYS TO THICKER, FULLER HAIR NEW INTRA FORCE FOR ALL TYPES OF THINNING HAIR

WHAT ARE THE MAIN CAUSES OF THINNING HAIR?

HOW DOES INTRA FORCE WORK? Formulated with a targeted combination of Arginine, Zinc PCA and Vitamin E derivative, Redken Intra Force formulas help promote a healthy scalp environment while improving the appearance of thinning hair.

ENZYMATIC CONVERSION OF TESTOSTERONE TO DHT

POOR NUTRITION DUE TO DECREASED MICROCIRCULATION

SUFFOCATION OF THE HAIR BULB

82

%

OF USERS NOTICED

INCREASED FULLNESS

INTRA FORCE, WITH ZINC PCA, removes excess sebum and environmental residue from the hair and scalp.

INTRA FORCE, WITH ARGININE, increases the microcirculation of the scalp when massaged into the hair.

INTRA FORCE, WITH VITAMINE E, nourishes the scalp to provide an optimal environment for healthy hair.

GET INSPIRED • CONTACT US • BE PART OF IT

* Based on a consumer test of participants using Intra Force shampoo, toner and scalp treatment for color treated, thinning hair over a 30 day period.

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The Redken world is an amazing place to be. Our pillars of Education, Science, Inspiration, Fashion and Business Development support salons with the goal of helping you learn better, earn better and live a better life.

R

D

To find out how to get Intra Force in to your salon, contact your local distributor or call 1-888-9REDKEN GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA 1.866.9.REDKEN

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DON’TE INTO FAD THE .

D N U O R BACKG BURST WITH ANT VIBR COLOR

© 2011 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All Rights Reserved.

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WHIP, WRAP, WOW! KEEP YOUR COLOR PUNCHING It’s a first – Sebastian color care conditioner for singletone or multi-tonal and lightened hair. The whipped formula with smart foam micro-bubbles moisturizes deeper and restructures hair’s condition where needed most. Wrapping vibrant shine around every hair strand. sebastianprofessional.com/colorignite

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58

Akin Konizi, HOB Salons U.K.

april.11 37

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42

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magazine

the business of beauty and style

The Style Guide

fEatures

Form & Function

52

The industry’s top stylists share their trend predictions for 2011

Letting Loose

Tips for helping clients tend to their natural texture

The latest updates and advancements for stylists’ favourite tool

48

the business of blow-dry How adding blowout services can help the bottom line

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six tips from symposium

Stylists take over Las Vegas for education and inspiration

the style guide

The latest on cuts, texture, nails and more april 11 $5 salon52.ca

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Shear Intelligence

12

l salon

Hair Collections

Styles from Essential Looks, Carly Roberts, HOB Salons, Jason Kearns, Damien Carney and Sassoon

regulars 16

EDITOR’S LETTER

18

publisher’s note

Collection: Missoni Hair: Carly Roberts, Marc Antoni, U.K. Makeup: Victoria Baron Styling: Leticia Dare Photo: Andrew O’Toole

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StyleMasters_FullPage_Layout 1 copy 2/23/11 11:04 AM Page 1

What makes a haircut great for me is when the hair moves naturally.

That’s why I need styling products that move the hair exactly on the way I want.

Fumio Kawashima

Tokyo, Japan The most famous Japanese hairstylist and creator of the Box Bob haircut

Professional styling to reinvent yourself everyday Revlon Professional brand introduces you to Style Masters: a new professional styling range created in collaboration with some of the best hairstylists in the world. Now you can take home the professional touch of your hairdresser.

Reinterprete your cut, creating any look. Natural? Sophisticated? retro? With Style Masters your hairstyle adapts to your lifestyle. Ask your hairdresser for the best advice and reinvent yourself everyday.

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TOOLBOX

New BaByliss Pro Volare borrows from Ferrari

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Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C.

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SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

HAIRLINES IGORA Royal’s 50th p. 23; Finishing touches p. 24; Ordinary to Extraordinary Makeover competition p. 24; A sensorial experience with Wella p. 26; Hairspray makes a comeback p. 26; New BaByliss Pro Volare borrows from Ferrari p. 28; Natural hair-smoothing treatment from CHI p. 28; Passing the torch when it’s time to sell p. 30; Six new products for your retail shelf p. 32

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68

64

Sassoon

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76 78

Corrections for four common colour problems, plus a celebrity hair horror story

NAILS UV light-cured gel nail services, plus new colour launches

ESTHETICS Going for gold with new anti-aging facials and products

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INTERIORS

86 89

SCOOP

98

LAST WORD

CONTESSA GALLERY

Edwin Johnston of Cutting Room Creative in Nanaimo, B.C. describes his Contessa 22 collection for the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year category

COLOUR

PROFILE

Calgary salon owners Mike and Lina Chammoury talk charity, community and working together

Ottawa’s The Loft creates a one-stop urban beauty oasis complete with salon, spa and beauty school

EVENTS Coverage of ISSE Long Beach, Matrix’s Annual Conference, Montreal Fashion Week, Kérastase’s 10th anniversary and more

by John Steinberg

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SOFTSHADES BY OPI

LA LA LAC ACQUE QU U RS FRO ROM RO M LEFT EF TO RIGHT HTT: In the th Sp Spototot o t Lig Light ht Pin Pi k, So o Man Many Ma y Clowns...S ..So ..S o Litt ttle Time,, Ste Step p Right igh gh h Up!, p!, I Jug Juggle gle....Men

Model is wearing IIn n the e Spot-Light Pi P nk. k.

CONTAINS NO DBP, D TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE. Call 800.341.9999 © ©20111 OPI Produ o cts Inc.

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FREE BEAuTY nEws!

EDITOR’S LETTER

Want the inside scoop on cosmetic enhancement, beauty tips and contests? Get Elevate Magazine’s e-newsletter sent straight to your inbox for the latest: anti-aging secrets cosmetic before+afters must-have beauty products exclusive giveaways doctor directories

A Passion for Beauty

You’ll be the first to know!

sign up now!

Visit elevatemagazine.com

elevate anti-aging

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l

enhancement

l

wellness

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

T

here’s nothing better than being around someone who really loves what he or she does. I enjoy talking to people who are such enthusiasts that they soak up everything they can on a particular topic. It just so happens there are quite a few in professional beauty, and I got to spend the morning with one of you for our story on curly hair “Letting Loose”, p.

42. Jonathan Torch is the owner of the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto and he knows the ins and outs of texture, including the different types, how each reacts to different climates and the best product ingredients to use. He knows this because he’s spent more than 20 years researching and focusing on this one niche. That is true passion and dedication.

Although I’m new to Salon Magazine, I’m not new to the industry. I spent the last six years working at the U.S. magazine, Modern Salon, and if there is one other adjective I’d use to describe pro beauty, it would be caring. I’ve never met another group of people who are, on the whole, more devoted to fundraising and helping their communities. I learned this again during the past month while speaking to Lina Chammoury for this month’s industry profile “Dynamic Duo”, p. 68. She and husband, Mike, managed to bring together five Calgary salons for a one-day cut-a-thon that raised $10,000 to benefit the charity ONEXONE, funds that stayed in Calgary to feed hungry children. Their motivation to bring the salon community together to help their local city is an example of how big a difference this industry can make when we work together. I’d love to hear how you are making a difference in your communities over the coming months.

Melissa Hill Editor Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/salon52 or email me at Melissa@beautynet.com.

salon52.ca

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50 COLOURS. 15 EFFECTS. ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES. Think of Colour as the clothes and Effects the accessories. A layer of Effects over your favorite rich crème Colour changes your look a little or a lot.

The Colour revolution is here.

From CND.

Shown on model: Left: Girlie Pink Right: Girlie Pink + Gold Pearl

760.599.2900 800.833.NAIL cnd.com cnd.com/colour3SM ©2009 Creative Nail ©2011 Creative Nail Design, Inc.Design, Inc.

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 20 issue 5

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@beautynet.com group ART DIRECTor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com editor-in-chief (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com associate Editor

Noelle Stapinsky > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | noelle@beautynet.com staff writer

Marlene Rego > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | marlene@beautynet.com designer

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com senior staff writer

Pam Fulford

Don’t miss out on Business Boosters

iscovering new services to add to the salon menu doesn’t happen every day—and it’s even better when it’s by customer demand.

Two hot services that come to mind are the blowout and nail hybrid gel services, which are driving customers into salons in droves.

Talk about boosting the salon business!

I think the blowout service is fantastic for several reasons. Offering a hair service other than cut or colour is simply good business. It’s also a service that is often overlooked and undervalued. There’s a real art to blow-drying and finishing hair properly. Clients recognize a good blowout as hair that looks great for days—delivering good value to clients who can’t mange their own hair but want to look polished. Plus, it’s a great way to keep young, less experienced stylists busy and help them build their clientele.

On a slightly different note, the days of letting clients leave the salon with wet hair should be banished. Clients are a salon’s walking advertisement. Their hair should look its absolute best, since there’s nothing like word of mouth advertising.

Another personal favourite service is the hybrid gel polish. When CND invited me last year to Chicago’s America’s Beauty Show to try this new service, I was quickly converted to a Shellac junkie. Who wouldn’t want a polish service that lasts two weeks? For pedicures during the colder months, it’s a godsend! With products like this, maybe it’s time to consider adding a nail tech to your staff.

There’s a term savvy sales people refer to as “leaving money on the table.” It means the customer was ready to buy, money in hand; however, the sales person didn’t close the deal or go for the sale.

Don’t let that happen to you. And for tips on building up your blowdry clientele, be sure to check out our feature on blowout services [See p. 48, "The Business of Blow-Dry].

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Jennifer D. Foster Contributors

Kim Hughes, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras publisher/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com Director of Sales & Business Development

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com Sales Associate

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@beautynet.com production manager

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com operations manager

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulation manager

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca Finance

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com cHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vice-president & West coast editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

Photo: alvaro goveia, makeup: LanaGmakeup.com

D

copy Editor

Subscription rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD a ddr ess c ha n ge s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada

Phone: 905.729.1288

S AL ON MA G AZ IN E 365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4

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641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards Gold

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Top Five

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclable p

This magazine

is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in cana d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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salon52.ca

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Colorist. EduCator. author. salon ownEr. industry iCon. For over 25 years, Beth Minardi has been the industry’s undisputed authority on all things haircolor. As an educator, she inspires colorists around the world to elevate their work into an art form. As an author, she provides haircolor guidance with her DVDs, books, newsletters, and advice columns in Modern Salon and on behindthechair.com. As a salon owner and colorist, she has established the Minardi Salon in NYC as the global destination for beautiful color. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON BETH MINARDI OR VERO K-PAK COLOR, VISIT www. joico.com OR SPEAK TO YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR ©2011 Joico® Laboratories, A division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Point Claire QC H9R 5N3

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salon52.ca what’s on

april 11

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

HAIR: THE SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM LED BY MARK HAYES, MAKEUP: DANIEL KOLERIC, STYLING: TABITHA OWEN, PHOTO: COLIN ROY

Where would you take IGORA Royal? Show us for a chance to win an iPad!

s52 collections

Upload a snapshot of you with an IGORA Royal colour tube anywhere in the world for a chance to win one of three iPads.

For more details, head to salon52.ca/contest.

> CARLY ROBERTS

> SASSOON > AKIN KONIZI > JASON KEARNS > SCHWARZKOPF > DAMIEN CARNEY

s52 job board

talk to us!

Straight to your inbox!

Craving a career change in 2011? Or want to post a job?

Browse our job board for tons of beauty industry opportunities!

And remember, posting on the job board is entirely free.

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign-up today.

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Customized nutrition for your hair

A simple product line that meets every need.

SHAPING AND FINISHING SPRAY Formulated with UV Defense Microcapsules that was designed to offer maximum UV filter protection.

Is recommended to shape and style while creating volume.

This Alcove firm-hold aerosol spray : • holds finished style all day long.

• resists to humidity.

• can remold edgy styles to achieve the perfect look.

MICRO CA

IE

DE M

I C R O CA

ES

GY

UL

S TECHNO ULE LO PS

PS

PROFESSIONNEL

T E C HNOL O

G

300 ML/9 FL OZ

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This hair care features the Microcapsules Technology, a revolutionary system that provides your hair with precisely the nutrients it needs—no more, no less. As the hair is dried, either naturally or with a hair dryer, the microcapsules disintegrate and release a dosed selection of essential nutrients. Thanks to Alcove’s customized nourishment, hydration and protection process, the result is beautiful, soft and healthier hair.

See the complete Alcove line at www.oligoprofessionnel.com Exclusive distribution opportunities still available 1.877.837.6426

PROFESSIONNEL

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3 NATURAL OILS A BALANCED BLEND THAT AWAKENS THE BEAUTY OF HAIR

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hairlines

news

photos courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional

Where would you take IGORA Royal?

Show us for a chance to win an iPad! Upload a snapshot of you with an IGORA Royal colour tube anywhere in the world for a chance to win one of three iPads.

For more details, head to salon52.ca/contest.

salon52.ca

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IGORA Royal turns 50

T

his year, Schwarzkopf Professional is celebrating the 50th anniversary of IGORA Royal, its flagship permanent colour brand, which launched in 1961.

In the months to come, Schwarzkopf has planned promotions and offers such as a "Best of‌" promo focused on some of the favourite IGORA Royal shades.

During the month of May look for promotional offers for IGORA Royal Blondes, followed

by IGORA Royal Absolutes in September.

The Colour with IGORA & Win contest also returns this spring. There will be special tabs on each box of IGORA colour with a PIN code. Enter the PIN at Schwarzkopf-professional.ca for a chance to win T-shirts, scissors, BC and OSiS products, iPods, digital cameras, coffee makers, trips to the new Toronto Academy and a grand prize trip to Salon International in London.

Also keep an eye out for special colour features in the Essential Looks Collections and exclusive seminars offered at Schwarzkopf’s Academy in downtown Toronto.

Visit Schwarzkopf-professional.ca for more.

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HAIRLINES

news

Finish Lines

T

his year, it’s all about the finishing touches. The TV series Mad Men has inspired more retro-glam updos and matte finishes, while cutting trends are showing disconnected styles with texture and a dash of sophistication. Whether you’re sculpting updos for weddings and proms or bringing out the subtle nuances of a hip new cut, here are some products guaranteed to give you that desired finish.

Alcove’s Molding Paste creates a pliable matte finish for textured and tousled looks.

Using UV defense microcapsule technology, this product also hydrates and revitalizes hair.

Shine on Schwarzkopf’s ESSENSITY Natural Shine Serum creates a luminous look.

Made with an organic essence of sesame, just a small amount smoothed over dry hair adds a polished sheen.

Pump up the volume UNITE Expanda Dust Volumizing Powder can be sprinkled on the roots for added volume and worked into the hair for hold and texture.

From Frumpy to Fab Everyone loves a good makeover, and if you’re attending ABA Toronto, you can check out several of them during the annual Ordinary to Extraordinary Makeover competition, hosted by the ABA and Citytv’s CityLine. Twenty stylists are selected and given 45 minutes to complete brand-new looks on the models provided by CityLine. The winner gets national exposure with an appearance on a taped broadcast of CityLine, as well as a $1,000 cash prize. The competition takes place March 27 at 5:30 pm. Interested in entering? The contest is also held at the ABA shows in Vancouver on April 16 and Calgary on October 2. Visit abacanada.com for more information.

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TOP MODEL PHOTO: HAIR: KEN PICTON, KEN PICTON SALON, CARDIFF BAY, U.K.,MAKEUP: VICTORIA BROWN STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE, BELOW: PHOTO COURTESY OF ABA CANADA

Bold moves

salon52.ca

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Stylist Phillip Wilson, and his weapon of choice.

See the new line of KORE TM professional products at fhiheat.com

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HAIRLINES

news

A Sensorial Experience

W

hile Wella is best known for its colour line, its brand-new 46-piece range of Care3 and Styling products are taking it to the next level in the salon. The Care3 collection consists of shampoos, conditioners and treatments divided into four categories: Brilliance, for colour-treated hair; Enrich, for dry hair; Balance, for special scalp needs; and Age Restore, for mature hair. Across the range, the formulas were designed to appeal to the senses of sight (brilliant colour), touch (hair softness) and smell (invigorating new scents.) The Styling collection offers up Wet Stage, Dry Stage and Finish Stage products that help stylists create just about anythingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; volume, definition, straightening and shineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with four levels of hold in each category. The products launch in May. For more information, visit wellausa.com.

Four Classic Sprays Return

I

n the early 2000s, the hair industry noticed consumers shying away from hairspray. But that was then and this is now, and the demand for spray is back and bigger than ever. In response, Joico has brought back its four classic sprays. Create a glamorous grunge look with JoiMist Firm, which allows movement in the style and gives the hold needed to keep waves and volume intact. JoiMist Medium gives styles a natural, clean look, while JoiShape Classic completes smooth looks and eliminates frizz. For damaged hair, K-PAK Protective Classic adds moisture and protects against thermal and environmental damage.

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TOP PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA

Joico meets growing demand with relaunch

salon52.ca

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www.goldwell-northamerica.com

END THE DARK DAYS FOR HIGHLIGHTS CLIENTS …

START THE 5-MINUTE REVOLUTION FOR YOUR HIGHLIGHTING BUSINESS!

new blonde:

Recharge Highlights in 5-Minutes.

Flat contrasts are softened – for an unbeatable, natural-looking blonde.

The Result: +30% increase in highlighting services*.

Amazing highlights will increase client satisfaction, bringing in NEW clients due to referrals.

Interested? Visit WWW.MY-NEWBLONDE.COM to start the revolution!

DEDIC AT ED TO C OLOUR P ERF ECT ION.

*Based on 200 highlight applications in a test salon, 12/2008 - 12/2009

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For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call KPSS Canada Ltd. Client Services: 1-877-670-6767

3/2/11 11:55:18 AM

hairlines

toolbox

Test Drive

Feel the power of a Ferrari at your fingertips with the BaByliss Pro Volare, a high-performance luxury dryer with a powerful V12 motor.

The nozzle has a nano titaniuminfused grill and a tri-port ionic generator for maximum air flow.

In pure Italian fashion, Ferrari has traditionally reserved its V12 engine for luxury vehicles and sports cars.

Push the turbo shot button for an extra burst of air.

Get more control with two speeds and three heat settings in the ergonomically designed handle.

The 1,875-WATT, V12 engine offers high torque and reduced vibration for smooth operation.

hairlines

news

Enviro Smooth

O

CHI research creates a more natural approach to hair-smoothing treatments

ver the past few years there has been a lot of controversy around hair-smoothing treatments and the ingredients used to create the long-lasting effects. In response, CHI worked with a team of experts, including hairstylists, chemists and

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former NASA scientists, to invent the new CHI Enviro American Smoothing System.

This treatment offers a lasting smoothing result, eliminating frizz and curl, while adding shineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;without the use of harsh chemicals. Go to Farouk.com for more.

salon52.ca

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hairlines

business

1983 2011

Passing the torch or Claus and Sonja Feser, renowned stylists and owners of Haute Coiffure in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood, deciding the fate of their beloved salon when they were ready to sell was simple and certainly serendipitous.

They had run into long time friends and ex-employees, Remo Bot and Cosimo Panetta—who started their careers at Haute Coiffure some 20 years ago—at a party and learned that the duo’s Haartek Salon was growing and they were on the hunt for a larger location.

“These two gentlemen were the obvious choice because we’ve known each other a long time. They were both 18 when they came to us, and it has been a never-ending friendship all those years. It was a logical decision to make when the time came,” says Claus.

The purchase of the business was not a merger of the two companies, but instead a buyout of its assets through a purchase agreement. The Fesers also wanted to continue working at the salon a few days a week.

“It’s like buying your parents’ house and having them live with you, but in

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separate quarters, and you get to make all the decisions,” says Bot. What’s most interesting about this takeover was the strategy Bot and Panetta implemented to ease the transition for both clientele and staff.

The deal was finalized nearly three years ago, but instead of merging two salons and shutting down to renovate, the new owners spent the first year allowing clients and staff to get comfortable with the new ownership.

Their business was essentially tripled, coming from a 1,200-sq.ft. space with 12 employees, to a 3,500-sq.ft. salon that already had 22 on staff.

On the jump in size, Bot says, “The fundamentals of business are the same, but now we have an office manager who takes care of the business and the finances, which we used to have to do. It frees up more of our time to concentrate on growing our business.”

In the second year the salon was renovated.

They waited a year because “besides the economic crunch that was happening at the time, we thought it was a wise decision to not come into a business that’s already existing

and manhandle it,” says Panetta. “We wanted everyone to know who we were, not just some new guys owning the place and disrupting everything.”

The new chic, contemporary design of the salon has an open, airy feeling. They decreased the amount of head sinks and redesigned the floor layout. The biggest challenge, according to Bot and Panetta, was placing each stylist according to where they and their clients would be most comfortable.

“It was like planning a wedding,” says Panetta.

The renovation improved the flow of business. In fact, December, traditionally the busiest month of the year, didn’t seem chaotic, but the books revealed it was the best December they’ve ever had.

Now in year three of ownership, both are concentrating on growing the business.

“We were warned about growing and doing renovations during bad economic times,” says Panetta. “But we believe that when you’re in a recession it’s important to market yourself and keep moving forward, because when the recession was over, we were ready to go full force.”

text, 2011 salon photo: noelle stapinksky, 1983 photo courtesy of claus feser

F

When it’s time to sell the business you’ve spent your entire career building, it’s important to find the right buyer—and the right strategy—for an easy transition

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3/2/11 2:18:09 PM

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salon52.ca

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2/1/11 8:07:14 PM

you can’t win if you don’t enter.

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contessa 23

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Salon52.ca

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3/2/11 3:19:52 PM

KEVIN.MURPHY

www.kevinmurphy.com.au Born from the same philosophy as skin care and inspired by nature’s best, the KEVIN.MURPHY range is an indulgence of runway looks and natural aromatherapy catered for every hair type.

The products are made from renewable and sustainable resources whenever possible, using pure essential oils, plant extracts and natural antioxidants.

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3/2/11 11:58:49 AM

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Ramp up your blow-dry business, get inspired by 2011â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top cutting trends, take a new pair of shears for a test drive and learn to tame the textured tresses of your clients. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you need to know about cutting and styling right now. salon52.ca

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photos [clockwise] courtesy of Carly Roberts; sam villa; carly roberts; ken picton

The style guide

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Form and Function Celebrity stylists and top platform artists forecast the hottest coifs of 2011 By Noelle Stapinsky

THE STYLE GUIDE

LE DE

THE STYLE GUIDE

Oribe Celebrity Hairstylist “We’re embracing more short hair styles and there are so many ways to go about that. Emma Watson’s new cut takes it a step up, pairing a short cut with an interesting muted colour. Justin Bieber’s cut will continue to be a major trend with both men and women, if it’s done well. The hair should be heavy in the front, with more texture making it softer and sexier. If it’s paired with an interesting colour, such as a pale red or orange, it can really stand out. And individually tailored styles are what the trends are going to be all about. Even if you do the same type of cut on multiple people, tailoring the cut specifically to the person will make the look different from the others.”

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Damien Carney International Artistic Director for Joico “In 2011, the length of the hair is unimportant. Individualism is key. A mixture of ’70s and ’80s looks and other decades will spill in to the current trends, mixing graduation and line cutting techniques. We’ll see straight, round, square and curves adding strength and definition to the perimeter and internal shapes. Disconnection will be key here, but more obvious and deliberate. Short hair will be tapered to create head hugging-shaped areas and medium to longer lengths will have movement, density and shine. The use of lines and graduation will keep the shapes fresh, while weight distribution will be placed in non-conventional places, such as behind the ears, nape area and in the front area of the cut. The finishes will be polished but not overly groomed, working with the natural texture of the hair.”

Rasa Jurenas Schwarzkopf Professional Educator, Platform Artist and Essential Looks Artist

▼

“The spring/summer trends carry all different avenues and expression of style. We will see an anti-established approach to cuts and colours, with off-kilter lines and hues that clash, but work. There may be a classic bob but with disconnected, offkilter lines and bold colours of red and magenta mixed together. We will also see some strong undercuts again—with a cut like this you can make it look professional for the office and flip the hair to the other side for the party. It’s all about the versatility of a look, making two or three statements out of one cut with colour placement, bold colours and a well-kept edge. This spring will still have the classic, timeless looks with intense shine, from long hair with strong fringes to beautiful curl textures with a bit of roughness to it.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ORIBE, DAMIEN CARNEY, ESSENTIAL LOOKS BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL: ESSENTIAL LOOKS 2011, PART I

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Nick Arrojo Celebrity stylist and Special Creative Artist for Wella “For 2011, we’re taking inspiration from iconic cuts from the past and making them current, cool and wearable by introducing new shapes and creative sectioning. From one triangular base, we’ve created three innovative and trend-conscious variations of the undercut, which all lead to stunning, curvi-linear shaped cuts. Other trends include strong bangs, a roundness given to typically square shapes, dynamic asymmetrical looks and freeform cuts using products and natural texture to create playful, multi-textured styles.”

Wendy Bélanger International Artistic Director of Pureology “As spring gets closer and the weather changes, so does fashion. We look to the runways, fashion, furniture and architecture for inspiration—as you can see they are all congruent. Hair in 2011 will have a definite ’70s influence. The shag is making a comeback with a lot of texture and volume. Women will love this, as the styling regimen will include freeflowing movement with less work. Be on the lookout for the shag bob to also make an appearance, using linear shapes with movement and texture creating unstructured fluidity in the interior. The bob is a great mid-length look that’s timeless, and the texture and movement keep it current. Strong fringes are big for 2011. Have the length fall perfectly to enhance the eye or signify the perfect length for the first layer. Short looks will be pixie-like and worn on the girl who can really pull it off.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF NICK ARROJO, PUREOLOGY CANADA

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Sam Villa Redken Education Artistic Director “Disconnections, detachments and 'cutouts' in styles continue to be strong this year, yet with more discipline and attention to details. Various tribes of hairstylists will compress or condense cut and some will take small sections.

Each method has a particular end result, and now we are starting to incorporate both together on one particular shape.

The understanding of knowing when and what to 'cutout' and what not to has become important to create today's movement and silhouettes.

We are definitely seeing point-cutting becoming a classical technique, and stylists will add more texture through the art of disconnection.”

Big Disconnection Many stylists are taking the disconnection technique to a new level to create this year’s hottest styles. We’ve seen it in the past, creating those rocker looks and dishevelled dos, but Stephane Legros, international platform artist for Redken, says using disconnection as a technical skill has evolved from the days of just releasing volume and now it’s being used to create fluidity and movement in the hair.

Using the technique, a sophisticated punk look is going to top the trends this year. “Volume is coming back. So we’re not using disconnection to lose volume anymore, but to create

texture and more volume,” says Legros.

Short hairstyles will be more graphic with undercutting and extreme texture and volume concentrated on the top.

“With curly hair, we’re working the natural wave to reinvent the texture. We’re disconnecting different sections to activate the curl and remove some of the weight, so the curls dance around the head,” says Legros.

By adding disconnection to short or long hair with cutting and colour, stylists are creating new elegant silhouettes with a bit of a wild side. S

PHOTO COURTESY OF SAM VILLA

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THE STYLE GUIDE

THE STYLE GUIDE

THE STYLE GUIDE

Girls with curls are in. Here’s how you can help your clients go au naturel and embrace their spirals

By Melissa Hill

L

os Angeles-based celebrity stylist Tyler Colton has his finger on the pulse of what’s hot right now. When he came to Canada recently to talk about spring and summer trends, texture and curls were main topics of discussion and demonstration. Of the eight models he brought out, six had hair that ranged from wavy to curly hair to tightly wound.

It’s a sea change in the industry, according to Jonathan Torch, of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute. “Naturally curly hair has never been mainstream before,” he says. “The new, younger hairstylists are picking up magazines and seeing ads, and they’re really open and into it. And women are discovering the freedom and embracing the natural, flattering styles—once they learn how to style it.”

Kim Etheredge, curly girl and co-founder of the Mixed Chicks curly hair product line, agrees. “Women have really become more patient and accepting of their hair and are saying, ‘I’m going to embrace this curl I have and there are so many things now on the market to help me do it,’” she says.

The Great Debate

There are also many more stylists who are willing and able to work with their curly haired clients. Colton, a Schwarzkopf Professional artist, has both curly and straight-haired clients, and he makes a point of cutting his curly clients' hair dry for the best results. Forget the fancy shears, he says you can get a

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Collection: Missoni, Hair: Carly Roberts, Marc Antoni, UK, Makeup: Victoria Baron, Styling: Leticia Dare, Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Letting Loose

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Styling is King

While there may be cutting controversy, there’s no debate over whether to use a product line dedicated to curls. In addition to the smaller, specialized lines, most large manufacturers offer their own curly shampoos, conditioners and stylers to meet market demand—so there’s no excuse not to be carrying one.

“If someone with straight hair uses a bad shampoo, you might not notice,” says Torch. “Use one on curls and you could have a problem with breakage or damage because of the fragility of the strands.” While curly-haired clients may go longer between cuts than their straight-haired friends, they also offer more of a retailing opportunity. Use specialized products and teach them how to style and manage their locks, and you’ll inevitably keep them coming back. t

great result simply by “making sure your shears are sharp so you can easily slice through to add movement.” Torch agrees on the shears: “Don’t use anything other than a straight scissor. The lines have to be as strong as possible.” He approaches cutting curls differently though, opting to cut clients' curly hair when wet, because “wet hair is perfect with no frizz.”

That difference of opinion between the two is one that is seen throughout the industry, with experts disagreeing on the best way to cut curly—dry, wet, wet to dry or dry to wet. Even two of the industry’s biggest stylists advocate different techniques: Lorraine Massey’s Deva Cutting calls for dry cuts, while Ouidad’s patented “carving and slicing” is done on wet hair. Ultimately, the best way to cut may be using the techniques that are most comfortable for you as a stylist. Check out the "Get Educated" sidebar for resources on training.

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Tips to Tackle Waves Curly Hair Institute owner and curly hair expert, Jonathan Torch, has been studying, cutting and styling curls for 20 years. Here are his hints for helping your curly-haired clients.

1. Read the hair. Pay attention to growth patterns, since no

two people will have hair growth in the same direction, and that determines where hair will fall.

2. Before you cut, make sure to account for hair shrinkage, and

not just wet versus dry. Hair will also expand or contract based on whether it’s a rainy day or a dry day.

3. Study the seasons and realize the effects they have on different types of curls. For loose curls, the

summer provides needed moisture and volume, while tight curls just get frizzy. The opposite is true in winter, when loose curls collapse and fall prey to static, while tight curls loosen. And for medium curls?

They can suffer from both problems, depending on the type of hair and type of curl.

4. The secret to curly hair is learning to control density and bulk. Torch evaluates facial features and

face shape to figure out where hair should be, then cuts with his tunneling technique to rearrange the bulk accordingly.

Types of Curls

Get Educated

There are a couple different ways that stylists categorize curls.

Here are four commonly used types, broken down by stylist Andre Walker for NaturallyCurly.com. Subcategories address thickness and texture.

Want to get comfortable cutting (and styling) curls? Check out these industry resources for training, tips and tools.

• Type 3, Curly: A definite loopy “S” pattern with curls that are well-defined and springy. Has a lot of body and is easily styled naturally or straightened with a blow-dryer.

Subcategories are 3a, curls are naturally big, loose and very shiny; 3b, medium amount of curl, from bouncy ringlets to tight corkscrews.

• Type 3c, Curly Kinky: Curls can be either kinky or very tightly curled corkscrews with lots of strands densely packed together. To blow-dry this type of hair straight is challenging, but can usually be done.

• Type 4, Kinky: Very tightly curled with a clearly visible curl pattern. Hair is very wiry, tightly coiled and fragile.

Subcategories are 4a, tightly coiled with an “S” pattern when stretched and a definite curl pattern; 4b, has a “Z” pattern and less of a defined curl pattern, and it has a cotton-like feel with hair that bends at sharp angles instead of curling or coiling.

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Devachan Salons, New York City A special training program for stylists allows them to become Deva-certified. www.devaconcepts. com Ouidad, New York City This site offers the Ouidad Stylist Certification training program. www.ouidad.com Curly Hair Institute, Toronto The website features a wealth of information on cutting and styling,and video demos of techniques. www.frizzoff.com CurlStylist.com The online resource for stylists with curly haired clients, it was launched by the founders of NaturallyCurly.com. If you’re just dipping your toes into curly hair, this is the place to start your education. If you’re a curly hair expert, don’t forget to list your salon on NaturallyCurly. com, so clients in your area can find you and your expertise. S

PHOTO COURTESY OF CURLY HAIR INSTITUTE

• Type 2, Wavy: Wave or curl forms are shaped like the letter “S” and hair sticks close to the head. Subcategories are 2a, fine and thin; 2b, medium-textured with a tendency to frizz; and 2c, thick, coarse, more resistant to styling and frizzes easily.

salon52.ca

3/3/11 3:01:41 PM

All Hands On Deck

Life Preserver

Hey Sailor

Ahoy!

First Mate

Starboard

Lighthouse

White Cap

Pelican Gray

Sea Spray

Below Deck

Sunset Sail

Knotty

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Model is wearing “Life Preserver”

12 New Nautically-Inspired Shimmers and Crèmes

2/2/11 6:03:17 PM

THE STYLE GUIDE

Shear Intelligence

New alloy combinations and ergonomics in shear technology enhance cutting techniques and improve durability By Noelle Stapinsky Innovations in metal combinations and scissor designs are giving stylists more options with sharper, lightweight blades and more ergonomically tailored handles suited to all cutting styles. Here are some of the newest launches.

Kasho Silver Series (DWA) Kasho’s lightest, sleekest shear series yet, the finger holes and blades have been slimmed down. It comes in an offset or crane handle for better ergonomics.

Panther ERGO Series (DWA) This brand offers one of the largest varieties of left-handed shears.

Japanese steel made with cobalt, Panther shears are sharpened on both sides of the blade, which employ a micro-edge cutting system.

The tension adjustment is inset with a flat tension screw that is adjustable with a fine-tuning key.

The swivel thumb design allows stylists to use the shear at any possible angle. Because of this versatility, it decreases the pressure placed on hands and wrists, and helps avoid issues, such as carpal tunnel syndrome.

“The advantage of a crane handle is that when your elbow is at your side the blades are parallel with the ground.

When point-cutting with straight-handled shears you have to lift the elbow up 60 degrees to point-cut. The crane handled shears only have to be angled about 20 degrees, so it relieves the tension in your wrist and arm,” says Steve Pavlick, president of DWA.

Mizutani Stellite Sleek “Molybdenum is a unique alloy because it’s strong, yet gives a soft feeling when cutting hair. You won’t get that hard crunch feeling like when you’re cutting hair with cobalt shears. It’s like cutting butter,” says Greg May, Mizutani distributor, owner of Greg May Hair Architects and self-proclaimed scissor nerd.

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Slim micro-beveled, double sasaba (bamboo leaf shape) blades.

The straight handle is ideal for free-hand cutting.

The Stellite sheers are made with about 85 per cent cobalt and a mix of molybdenum and vanadium.

The inset tension adjustment makes shears lighter and sleeker.

photo: hair: ken picton, ken picton salon, cardiff bay, u.k.., makeup: victoria brOWn styling: bernard connolly, photo: andrew o’toole

E E

THE STYLE GUIDE

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Sam Villa 7” Dry-Cutting Shears “I compress cut, taking larger sections to create a softer edge. And because of this I like a longer blade with more weight to cut through the mass section.

The Sam Villa 7” dry cutting does the job for me,” says Sam Villa, Redken’s Education Artistic Director and owner of Sam Villa styling tools.

The Teflon lining eliminates metal-to-metal grinding.

Joewell FX PRO series The FX Pro series are intended for all cutting styles.

This three-dimensional style grip has a removable finger rest and a twisted finger ring for natural movement.

The tension adjustment is a dry bearing screw system for smooth opening/closing operation. The solid lubricated pivot point contact and the dry bearing are made of resin, with a smooth titanium cover. The system is self-adjusting, maintenance-free and lightweight.

These shears are made of 100 per cent Japanese molybdenum alloy for strength and durability.

Handcrafted convex blades hold an edge longer.

The crane handle is designed for ergonomic comfort and precision, and keeps the elbow in a downward position, reducing strains on the hand and wrist.

Ouch!

For edge sharpness and durability, the blades are made of supreme stainless steel. A combination of a flat blade and a sword blade enables accurate and stable scissor operation.

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You know the feeling… the unpleasant one you get when you realize from the feeling in the scissors that you've cut something that’s not hair, but your finger instead. Now there’s a fun way to show off your war wounds. Redken’s Education Artistic Director, Chris Baran, launched his own brand of Band-Aids, which say “Mistakes are OK!” and have his website address printed on the ends. Check out chrisbaran.com for more info. S

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THE STYLE GUIDE 48

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THE STYLE GUIDE

THE STYLE GUIDE

With blow bars popping up in major cities in North America, salon owners are recognizing the financial opportunity By Melissa Hill

Collection: Missoni, Hair: Carly Roberts, Marc Antoni, UK, Makeup: Victoria Baron, Styling: Leticia Dare, Photo: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

The Business of Blow-Dry

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photo courtesy of blo bar

Business is Blowing

Vancouver stylist Ludovic Jan owns Opus Salon, which is located just two blocks away from a Blo Bar. “The bar does well. We have to remember that styles change and lifestyles change, and right now the demand is there,” he says.

While doing blowouts may not be the main core of a salon business, for the savvy owner or manager, it can be a boon— especially in tough economic times.

It was that financial reality that prompted Luis Pacheco to open up a previously unused, dedicated space on the third floor of his salon for blowouts. The owner of Hair on the Avenue in Toronto started his blow bar in 2008. “The economy started getting bad, and we had a decline in clients coming in for a $60 blow-dry every week,” he says.

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The idea was two-fold: first, provide clients with an attractive price point that would entice them to come back weekly for styling; and second, create a sense of hierarchy and a training plan within the salon. Newly licensed stylists would start at the salon assisting senior stylists and spending six to eight weeks learning how to blow-dry. After a two-month period, they begin working at the blow bar, in addition to assisting.

With this change to the business, the salon was able to lower the price point of a blow-dry to $29 all-inclusive, and promise customers they would be in and out in 30 minutes. “The client reception was amazing. They returned to having their hair done here, where they were familiar with the professional products and staff,” Pacheco says. To retain their loyal weekly customers, they recently went a step further, launching package deals. Bought in groups of five, 10 and 20, it brings down the current price of $35 for a single blowout to as low as $24.50 per session for the package of 20.

This is the kind of success that the owners of Blow, in New York, hope to replicate with salons that carry their blowPro line, a collection of 22 products that are designed to get better blowout results in the salon and at home. At their Blow Dry Bar Academy, owners and stylists learn how to capture the blow-dry potential.

“Why should your clients go anywhere else for a blowout?” asks Stuart Sklar, one of the founders. “We teach stylists how to give a fantastic style to their clients—a skill many either thought they knew or were intimidated by—in addition to a blue print on how to build a better blowout business.”

The Convenience Factor

While a dedicated blow bar may not be right for your salon, there are still ways to get a part of the action. Jan, whose salon does not have a blow bar, has still found a way to compete. “You just t

O

nce thought to have gone the way of the roller set, the traditional brush and dryer blowout is making a comeback. You can find fuller locks with texture and body making appearances on Hollywood red carpets and in the pages of fashion magazines—and clients are following suit, looking for hair that goes beyond the flatiron.

Evidence of this can also be seen in the clamour over the chains of standalone blow-dry bars that have been opening in major cities across North America, starting in 2005 with the original, Blow, The New York Blow Dry Bar. In Canada, competitor Blo Bar has four locations in Vancouver and eight in Toronto. In Montreal, Bleu Dry Bar, a sister concept to popular Rouge Nail Bar, is the first of its kind for the city. The bars offer a selection of styles, and new looks are completed in about 30 minutes for $30 to $60—walk-ins welcome. At most bars, though, don’t go looking for shears or hair colour. According to Blo spokeswoman Hilary Chan-Kent, “Blo does one thing and does it well: a perfect blowout.”

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Blowouts 101

Tips on giving your clients great style Ludovic Jan, owner of Opus Salon in Vancouver, is known for his blowouts. He credits his training in Europe, where he was taught to use only styling products, his brush and blow-dryer to complete the job—no irons allowed. Here’s how to get a Janworthy blowout.

1.

Have a plan.

“Doing a blow-dry is like doing a cut,” says Jan. “Based on the style you want to achieve, know where to start on the head and then section very well. So many stylists do poor sectioning and don’t have a plan when they start.”

2.

what you said:

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PHOTO: HAIR: KEN PICTON, KEN PICTON SALON, CARDIFF BAY, UK, MAKEUP: VICTORIA BROWN STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE

need to know how to attract your clients with your marketing,” he says. He offers a deal similar to Hair on the Avenue, with $30 blowouts performed by new talent at the salon. These licensed stylists receive six months of in-salon training, including a month dedicated to the blow-dry. It's this expertise that makes Jan feel his stylists offer more for the money.

While Blo session stylists go through an intensive training program covering techniques and the seven signature styles, they are only required to have a license when state or provincial law requires it, which British Columbia and Ontario do not. At Blow's two New York locations, only professionally trained, licensed stylists are behind the blow-dryer. They've also recently begun offering add-on services like manicures, trims and highlights at the behest of clients.

Pro stylists have the edge with experience, but bars like Blo still win when it comes to convenience. Hair on the Avenue initially offered its blowouts on a walk-in basis, but scheduling became difficult and it’s now appointmentonly. Fine for regular clients, but for those looking to stop-in on their way to work at 8 am or for a spur-of-the-moment style change before a big night out, the bars have an advantage with extended hours and walk-in service.

That availability, the clever marketing and the specialized niche have all succeeded in making blow bars wildly popular. Ultimately, though, only time will tell whether the standalone bars stand the test of time—and the ebbs and flows of style.

Pre-dry.

“Pre-drying before giving form to the hair is extremely important. Most stylists either don’t dry enough, or dry too much, and it makes their work twice as hard,” he says. Pre-drying is almost an art form, because the amount to dry the hair varies on the type of style and the thickness and texture of the locks. With practise, stylists can determine the perfect moisture level by feel.

3.

Practise, practise, practise.

“The number one priority is to practise—on friends, parents, mannequin heads, anyone,” says Jan. “Usually, the reason a stylist hates blow-drying is because they don’t know how to do it. When you know how to do it, you love it because you always get the perfect result you are looking for.”

4.

Know your products.

“Choosing a good styling product is key. I choose based on the style the client wants and the type of hair, sometimes mixing different products. Depending on the finish, I use three to four products on each client,” he says. S

CHRISTINE KOVOLOS, TAZ HAIR CO., TORONTO, VIA FACEBOOK.COM/SALON52 “As a hairstylist it’s essential—especially in this economy—to be talented in all facets of hairdressing, especially styling... Ninety per cent of retention is solely based on the client-stylist relationship, but people have become more and more particular, given all the deals that are available… If a salon client of mine proposed an offer so that she could come in frequently for a style service I would ABSOLUTELY accommodate a lower price point so it’s a win-win agreement!”

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SIX TIPS FROM SYMPOSIUM Stylists meet for a whirlwind mix of education and inspiration

By Melissa Hill

PHOTOS COURTESY XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

PHOTOS COURTESY OF REDKEN

When more than 9,000 hair stylists gather in Las Vegas for a weekend, it’s bound to be epic. The 2011 Redken Symposium did not disappoint, with an amazing opening-night show that drew on great hair, fashion and theatre to entertain. The show also featured Canadian talent, with Montreal stylist Catherine Allard as part of the main-stage team. Following the show were two days and 20 sessions of top-notch business, cutting, colouring and styling education, led by artists who included Chris Baran, Sam Villa, Kris Sorbie, Brent Borreson and Peter Mahoney. Here’s a collection of the best tips from the weekend.

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On hot trends for ’11…

Brent Borreson, Leah Freeman, Carmody Homan and Justin Isaac Cuts Shorter sides with length through top and back. Lots of volume, texture and movement.

Colour Red, red and more red. Blondes with golden tones through the interior and brunettes are oversaturated.

Fashion A clash of past and future. Metallics are a main feature, while silhouettes are shortened and oversized.

Makeup Jewel tones have mutated into hard metallics and bright reds.

On team building…

Peter Mahoney Allocate at least 25 per cent of your annual marketing and promotional budget to reward and recognition programs for your service providers. They’ll love you for it.

On your retail area…

Peter Millard Simply, seriously and persistently eliminate clutter—it costs nothing and makes the single biggest difference in clients’ perception of your salon.

On retailing and the consultation…

Ann Mincey The three most important conversations you can have with a client about “continued care” are: what was selected for the client, why it was selected and how it’s used.

On booking…

Kris Sorbie and David Stanko Use social media to fill cancellations by posting openings on Facebook and Twitter.

On finding new clients…

Gaven Smith and Linda Macchi Visit the human resources department of nearby companies to recruit the employees as new clients. S

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www â&#x20AC;˘ See more collections at salon52.ca

Collection: Edge, Essential Looks, 2011, Part I Hair: Essential Looks Creative Team Makeup: Nicole Jaritz Styling: Natascha Eichler Photos: Sabine Liewald

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Punk Rock

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isplaying an anti-establishment approach to fashion and life, Schwarzkopf Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Edge collection is one of four sets comprising Essential Looks 2011. Playing out in directional and occasionally extreme styles that embrace individuality, Edge features punk undercuts that push things off kilter, while colours are raw and clashing, with angst-ridden tones. S

Unexpected colour contrasts and sharp angles mark a portfolio inspired by the runway

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Collection: Missoni Hair: Carly Roberts, Marc Antoni, U.K. Makeup: Victoria Baron Styling: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Pop Art In a world of black and white, a U.K. stylist’s work stands apart from the pack

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arly Roberts, a member of award-winning Marc Antoni Hair Salons’ Art Team, designed a vibrant collection that pays homage to Missoni’s use of colour and form. Missoni made colour fashionable, and Roberts has a similar crusade for hair—adorning fabulous cuts with tailored colour to all extremes and tastes. S

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Te x t e d e Ya s m i n G r o t h é

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Hair: Akin Konizi @ HOB Salons Photography: Jenny Hands Makeup: Natsumi Watanabe

Twin Powers

t

British hair master Akin Konizi gets reflective

wo-time British Hairdresser of the Year, Akin Konizi approached this collection by mimicking stills from cinema over the decades. The result is a stunning narrative, which cleverly postures identical looks against each other. By utilizing two models in each shot, styles are seen from opposing angles to showcase technical expertise in perfectly executed bowl cuts and beautifully crafted bouffants. The symmetrical styles echo and play off each other to combine a feeling of duality and harmony. S

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Statuesque

Jason Kearns takes a page out of modern art in his Something Moore collection

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nspired by English sculptor Henry Moore, Jason Kearns’ collection is modelled after the famous artist’s modern bronze statues. The influence is especially clear in the models’ poses, which are reminiscent of Moore’s sculpture.

Using wool and crimping, Kearns focused on avant-garde textured locks to bring the hair to life. S

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Collection: Something Moore Hair, concept and art direction: Jason Kearns, Kearns & Co., Toronto Makeup: Hanoch Drori Styling: Lorraine Langlois Photos: Richard Dubois

www â&#x20AC;˘ See more collections at salon52.ca salon52.ca

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Black Magic Damien Carney’s stripped down collection puts the spotlight back on hair

www • See more collections at salon52.ca

“My inspiration was to focus on clean, simple shapes that are timeless and modern at the same time,” says Carney of his Noir collection. He intentionally left out a wardrobe to put the spotlight on black and white imagery, as opposed to fashion trends. The result is a paired down esthetic that keeps technique and artistry in perfect proportion and balance, and highlights the mixed styling and textured hair shaping. S

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Brave New World Sassoon’s creative team channels the best of sci-fi

w

hat do you get when you cross Blade Runner with Metropolis?

The disconnected lines and dramatic futurism of Sassoon’s Neue-Kraft collection.

Stark white ends dipped in charcoal, maroon and navy put the focus on modernism, while the intersecting shapes play with geometry. Taking inspiration from Russian sculptor Naum Gabo, the result embodies the three-dimensional principles behind his work. Yet, the Sassoon cutting technique is still front and centre in the sleek shapes and spotlight on bone structure. S

Hair: The Sassoon Creative Team led by Mark Hayes Makeup: Daniel Koleric Styling: Tabitha Owen Photos: Colin Roy

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry Collection: Femme Hair: Edwin Johnston Photos: Hama Saunders Makeup: Gloria Noto Styling: Danny O'Neil

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Vintage Drama Edwin Johnston of Cutting Room Creative in Nanaimo, B.C. describes his Contessa 22 collection for the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year category

I

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

called this collection Femme because I drew my inspiration from a mix of old Hollywood movies, the city of Berlin and the movie Pulp Fiction, and added a bit of goth style to it. The models all have dark smokey eyes and lips. For the hair, I used a mini crimping iron to add texture and create styles inspired by a variety of femme fatales, such as Greta Garbo, Uma Thurman and Dita Von Teese.â&#x20AC;? S

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profile

Dynamic Duo

Mike and Lina Chammoury with part of their team at last year’s cut-a-thon.

A harmonious business—and personal—partnership leads to salon success By Kim Hughes

O

t

f the variety of things that set Calgary’s Edges Salon & Spa apart from the competition—the scope of services on offer, the small army of staff, the impressive $20,000 raised during two grassroots events supporting global child welfare foundation OnexOne—owners Lina and Mike Chammoury are the most distinctive.

Forget that the Lebanese-Canadians have been together since falling “in love at first sight,” as Lina tells it, some 20-odd years and three children ago. It’s their harmonious business partnership—he’s the creative heart, she’s the logistical head— that give them an edge and mark the Chammourys as originals.

Edges has thrived since launching in 2003, so what’s the key to its success?

The Chammourys share their secrets on a good working relationship, their community involvement, the best advice they’ve received and how they manage such a large workforce.

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profile

Q: Many people would shudder at the notion of working with their spouse.

How do you do it?

Mike: Working together has actually brought us closer together. We have a stronger relationship with the same interests. We do two different things at work in two different departments, but communicate a lot via text messaging during the day to stay in touch and on the same page.

Lina: When you work together with one common goal it makes the job fun. Also, it helps that my office is three floors above the salon so we don't work face-to-face all day. We try and separate work and home life, which can be difficult, but we somehow manage and it all just works.

Q: Is it fair to say that Mike is the creative brains and Lina is the administrative muscle?

Mike: That's a good way to put it. I often say one is the head and the other is the neck.

Lina: For sure it is. Mike is a master stylist and has amazing visions of how he sees things, but because he is so busy behind the chair and booked months in advance, he can't always find the time to do everything he wants done. That's where I come in as director of marketing and operations.

With regular meetings to keep us on the

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same page, I make sure his visions become reality. We have one common goal and that is to leave behind a legacy that changes industry standards, and together we can.

Q: If you had to sum up the Edges' philosophy in one sentence what would it be?

Lina: We make a living by what we get, but we make a difference by what we give.

Q. In the last two years you’ve lived that, raising more than $20,000 for the charity ONEXONE. Lina: The first year, our salon held several different events and raised $10,000 altogether. Then last year, we worked with four other Calgary salons—Influence Salon, SFM Lifestyle Salon & Spa, Hair 2000 Salon & Esthetics and ZuHair Salon—to do a large cut-a-thon, and in one day we raised more than $10,000. We wanted to create a culture in the city where salons work together for the community. In this case, all the money stayed in Calgary and went to Tummy Tamers and Community Kitchen to feed children in the area. For this year, our goal is $12,000.

Q: Best piece of business advice you ever received?

Mike: Hire slow and fire fast!

Lina: “At the moment of commitment, the universe conspires to assist you.“ I wear this on a charm around my wrist because it reminds me to never be afraid to go after your dreams.

Q: Is there a piece of business advice you wish you had taken?

Mike: At the beginning of my career, I wish I had chosen my business partners wisely.

Lina: Years ago, I wish I would have listened sooner to a coach who told us not to be afraid to fire staff—no matter how much they made—before they spread negativity throughout the salon. We finally did and did it ever feel good.

Q: Your advice to any aspiring spa or salon operator?

Mike: Always be true to yourself and be honest with others. As soon as you trust yourself others will trust you.

Lina: Have systems and structure: it's key.

Our team loves it and they need it to stay focused and grow, and to have fun with it.

Q: Personal motto?

Mike: Creativity is allowing yourself to make mistakes. Art is knowing which ones to keep.

Lina: If you want to live a happy life, tie it to a goal, not to people or things. S

Jennifer Kyte, via facebook.com/salon52 You all are amazing what you do for people and the community....This world could sure use a lot more of you!!!

I hope everyone appreciates each one of u. Just saying!!! salon52.ca

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premiere orlando June

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photography & hair Luis Alvarez of Aquage :: makeup Wanda Alvarez of Aquage fashion stylist Patric Chauvez :: assistant Carly Campbell production Don Wismer

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colour

Colour 911

Your guide to four common colour crises

By Marlene Rego

Picture this: a client walks in with hot roots/brassy colour/dark ends and wants a fast fix. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never simple when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re faced with a major colour crisis, so we went to the experts for advice on dealing with the most unsightly colour conundrums.

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brassy

2

overprocessed

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3

Colour chameleon

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Too dark

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Colour chameleon

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overprocessed

brassy

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4

Colour Crisis Brassiness is a natural reaction to the hair lightening and not having enough tone to control it. Dyes expose the pheomelanin in the hair, which is the red-orange molecule, as the hair starts to lighten. Brassy hair can be a result of bad formulation, not understanding the underlying pigment or poor maintenance. Make sure clients understand that sun exposure and cheap drugstore shampoos quickly strip the hair.

Solution “Brassiness can be easy to control or brassiness can look like a school bus on fire, so that’s a bit harder,” says Patrick McIvor, artistic director for Matrix. Going one shade lighter will control some brassiness or you can opt to darken the hair by two shades to eliminate most of the orangey hue. McIvor recommends using a demi-permanent colour with ceramides in it to improve the hair’s condition. “The darker you go, the easier it’s going to be to cover but don’t go dark just because you don’t want orange.” Try to put the warmth back in the hair.

Colour Crisis Overprocessed roots or highlights usually happen at home when someone’s done it themselves. Hot roots occur because regrowth is not fully keratinized and reacts easier to heat and colour, thus lightening more quickly. Trapped heat from the scalp will speed up the process.

Solution Luckily, this is usually an easy fix, says McIvor. To fix hot roots apply a demipermanent colour to the scalp that’s one shade darker. To avoid this in future always remember to start the colour a finger's length off the head first and let that start processing for 20 or 30 minutes. Then remix and apply back at the scalp. When McIvor begins highlighting, he starts with a lower 10 volume developer at the nape and then works with a higher 40 volume developer, so the foils come off at the same time. Some stylists use the same volume all over and have their clients rinsed in sections as they work.

Colour Crisis “You might have somebody who has roots that are too light, brassy mids and dark ends and it looks like a Calico cat because it’s not even anywhere,” says McIvor.

When correcting colour, it’s more important to keep the hair in good condition than it is to promise unrealistic results. “If it’s the colour they want and they go home and flat iron it and it breaks off, it’s your fault,” says McIvor.

Solution In this situation remember to ask yourself ‘What can I keep?’ Wella international platform artist Sandro Zamparini says, “Create a plan in colour correction. Don’t try and do it all in one shot. You’re just asking for trouble.” The old thinking was you had to clean the canvas and basically start over. Depending on how long the hair is and the type of colour used, work with one aspect and aim to improve the tone with each visit.

too dark

Colour Crisis Zamparini was recently faced with a client who coloured her dark blonde hair black and applied red to the regrowth. "She had red roots and black ends, so instead of trying to remove all the black, we bleached out panels of her hair throughout," says Zamparini.

Solution Zamparini re-applied a darker red to the lightened panels to give his client the look of lowlights and red highlights. “We’re inching away from the black and aiming toward the red.

We approached it in baby steps. We didn’t try to take out all the black,” he says. On her next visit, Zamparini plans to play with the regrowth even more and emphasize the red. “Give the client something to look forward to,” he says. There are great reducers and lighteners but the secret to fixing dark hair colour is in the application. “Get it on as quickly and evenly as possible and get it off before it’s too light,” says McIvor. “Most people will make a second mistake of making parts too light because they don’t have the control.” He recommends adjusting area to area and staying close to the sink.

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First Base Colour correction is tricky territory, so don’t promise the moon, warns Sandro Zamparini, artistic director of Pop Hair and international platform artist for Wella. Start with an in-depth consultation to find out what the client’s end goal is. Here are his colour conversation tips: • Always treat a client like you’re meeting for the first time, every time, to maintain colour consistency.

• Examine the colour that was used previously to create the best plan.

• Confidently tell the client what suits him or her the best.

• Be realistic about the results you can achieve.

• Sometimes, multiple sits in the chair is the only option to correct the problem.

• Don’t be afraid to ask for a second opinion if you’re unsure.

• Take a colour course every year— there’s no excuse not to.

Colour Calamity Patrick McIvor, Matrix’s artistic director and owner of Patrick McIvor Color Studio in Bethlehem, Penn., shares a colourful horror story (with a happy ending): “One of my clients was a heavily blonded actress, and after her boyfriend dumped her she went back home to Kentucky.

When her roots started coming in, instead of going to a good salon in her hometown she took store-bought brown hair colour and dumped it on her head. It turned green-brown!

She was smart enough to know that if you put something red over it, it would kill the green. Her agent flipped out demanding she go back to blonde. When she came to me, I said ‘You can’t.' To prove it I put a foil in for 20 minutes with 20-volume lightener and I showed her exactly what would happen to her hair.

After two weeks of treatments, we got her to a brunette with some highlights, and by the third time in five weeks we got her back to the blonde that she needed to be.” S

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nails

Soak It Up S

UV-cured, soak-off polishes are here to stay. How the long-lasting alternative to polish has amped up the nail biz By Marlene Rego

hellac, Gelac, Gelish, Gelez. The list of soak-off, UV-cured polishes has become seemingly endless but the technology has really only been around for two years and has revolutionized the way we look at manicures. The gels go on like polish, but are instantly cured by a UV lamp for chip-free digits.

“There’s a major shift in the industry at this point with this product,” says Arica Carpenter PR & Marketing for Star Nail International. “Women feel like they’re getting their money’s worth. It lasts two weeks and still looks like you just came out of the salon.”

Maria Cristina Faccio, co-owner of Ritual Spa in Toronto, was one of the first salons to carry Creative Nail Design (CND)’s Shellac in May 2010 when it debuted.

“It’s completely revitalized the nail industry,” she says. “Especially in this economy, a lot of women found regular manicures to be a waste because they chip after a day or two.”

The salon charges between $35 and $45 for a Shellac manicure, and Faccio says, “It’s increased our manicure business, for sure.”

Soak-off gel polishes are a thinner version of traditional hard gels, which have been around much longer. While hard gels offer similar durability, they take longer to remove and need to be filed down, which is abrasive for natural nails and makes it more difficult to change polish colours.

To remove soak-off gels, Carpenter recommends taking a cotton ball and saturating it in acetone. “Put it on the nail and wrap it in foil. The foil warms up the acetone and then after five minutes, the gel starts lifting itself up off the nail,” she explains.

The soak-off polishes have major potential to bring bucks back to the salon. Offer your traditional manicure services, says Carpenter, but make clients aware they can have a longer-lasting polish for a slightly higher price. “This is a great upsell to making more money and making the client happy, at that,” she says.

New launches for spring

China Glaze Gelez EzFlow’s Gelez is a brush-on gel that cures in only two minutes. Find these attractive shades in the handy starter kit.

CND Shellac Happy news for Shellac lovers who feel limited by colour choices—the brand has come out with 12 pretty new shades.

UV lamps: What to tell clients There’s been recent speculation on whether ultraviolet lamps used to cure nails are safe. The debate centers on a report comparing UV lamps to tanning beds, claiming they’re a source of highdose UVA light. Now, three industry experts say the report is overblown after testing leading UV lamps themselves.

Scientists Doug Schoon, Paul Bryson and Jim McConnell found that spending a few minutes under a UV light bi-weekly is like being exposed to an extra half-hour of natural sunlight over the course of two weeks. They claim you’re more likely to get more

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exposure while driving a car. They also refute the comparison between tanning beds since more time is spent in beds and the light is stronger.

Companies that manufacture the lamps have said they emit less radiation than spending a day under fluorescent office lighting. If clients remain apprehensive, the experts suggest placing a cloth or towel over the hands while the client waits for polish to cure or have them apply sunscreen, then clean the nail beds off.

For more information on the study, go to: www.schoonscientific.com.

IBD Paradise Six tropical shades round out IBD’s Paradise collection. The soak-off colour gels are packaged in a convenient kit with cleansing pads and bonder. S

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esthetics

Gold is continuing its dizzying ascent as a hot commodity in 2011, and in the beauty biz, the precious metal is also yielding spectacular results.

Welcome to the world of the 24-karat gold facial.

By Yasmin Grothé

old has been used for centuries, in many cultures, for its curative properties. In Indian Ayurvedic medicine, it was used as a treatment for ailments, including cardiac problems, while in Ancient Egypt it was said to promote blood circulation.

Today, gold salts are often used in Japan for the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis.

Research has revealed that gold not only has anti-bacterial properties, but also helps transport oxygen molecules directly into the skin, influencing cellular functions and providing a new energy level. As a stable substance, genuine gold is highly compatible with all topical skin treatments, including, of course, anti-aging formulas.

Natural Botox?

Enaam Takla, a holistic esthetician and owner of Spa Dr. Hauschka in Montreal, recently began offering a 24-karat gold facial executed with micro-thin gold leaves of 0.0001 mm (one-tenth of one micron), producing a leaf with a fine atomic network and visible translucence. “Pure gold increases the level of negative ions in the epidermis which neutralizes free radicals, leading to smoother, firmer skin,” says Takla. “Positive ions are very damaging to the body.” After the two-hour gold facial,

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which includes a leg and arm massage, as well as more traditional lymphatic drainage, the skin actually feels bouncier and more youthful. “Some of my high profile clients are actually coming in once a month for a gold facial because they are so happy with the results. They call it the natural equivalent of Botox,” says Takla.

For take-home products, French prestige spa brand Carita was one of the first to introduce a gold-infused serum, and now companies such as U.S.-based Venetian Beauty Inc. are jumping on the hot trend.

Venetian Beauty has launched a full line of 10 skin care products formulated with 24-karat gold. “Studies show gold is effective in slowing down collagen depletion and the breakdown of elastin to prevent sagging skin. Gold stimulates cellular growth of the basal layer to regenerate healthy, firm skin cells and provides a tightening effect. We launched Venetian Beauty specifically for the finest spa and beauty stores across the globe and are confident the packaging will satisfy even the pickiest luxury skin care customer,” says David Schmidt, general manager of Venetian Beauty. Used in skin care treatments, gold’s anti-inflammatory properties are also highly effective in slowing down melanin secretion and reducing age spots.

A Business Boom Demand for gold in skincare products and services has led to booming business for gold leaf producers. One of the cosmetic industry standard-bearers is 140-year-old German GoldCosmetica.

It produces dermatologically tested and certified, hygienic, cosmetic-grade gold and alloys.

According to GoldCosmetica’s website, “Our special beating process enables us to produce an array of gold leaf, flakes, powder and micromesh ideally suited to creating exciting and luxurious new product lines”. The company’s biggest clients include salons and spas, as well as luxury body and nail care wholesalers and manufacturers.

Nylstar, a specialist in fibres and yarns for more than 80 years, has also claimed a spot in the niche market with a new luxury fibre called Nylgold. The company calls the fibre representative of a new era in textiles— the era of dermaware, or wearing fabrics beneficial to the skin. Nylgold features 24-karat gold nanostructures that offer skin care benefits and is currently being developed to produce undergarments.

After the current gold rush, what will be the new rare and precious ingredient in prestige skin care? S

photo courtesy of GoldCosmetica

G

The Gold Rush

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interiors

The Loft is also home to the Exclusive Online Beauty Boutique, featuring top-of-the-line products from a range of companies, including L’Oréal, Kérastase, Dermalogica and Schwarzkopf. In addition to the items offered at the salon location, clients can find an extended selection at www.exclusivebeautyboutique.com.

Products in the salon are arranged on floating shelves in the exquisite sitting area overlooking trendy Elgin Street, set above downtown Ottawa and surrounded by glass on all sides.

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Photos: alex legault, mccall photography

Retail therapy

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Inspired Innovation

A modern, urban space becomes a onestop beauty mecca in Ottawa

A

By Kim Hughes

sk Bruno Racine, co-owner and head stylist of Ottawa’s The Loft, to pick five adjectives to describe the vibe and style of his venue, and you’ll get something more closely resembling a novella than a straight-up list.

“Cutting-edge, latest fashion, avant-garde, leader and innovative,” offers the lead stylist for Project Runway Canada and platform artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. The chic and thoroughly modern space, co-owned by Racine and Paul Valetta, was a finalist in the 2011 Contessa Interior Design category.

When customers enter the salon for the first time, the most oft-heard comment is: “I feel like I am in New York or Milan. I never expected such an establishment in Ottawa,” Racine says.

Part of that is attributed to the great flow. "With 40 staff members, we had to make sure that the 5,000-sq.ft. space would be laid out efficiently, without compromising our unique experience of makeovers and relaxation in a modern Zen environment," he says. "Clients never feel like part of an assembly line.”

Of the inspiration behind the design and architecture, Racine offers, “Specific elements, such as a glass waterfall wall, full-lit glass wall panels with stainless steel accents and cherry red leather cutting chairs from Milan, give The Loft a contemporary European feel.

“And because The Loft is an exciting hair salon and a full-service spa, clients experience moods ranging from high energy to full relaxation.”

The fully open-concept Loft boasts an exquisite sitting area overlooking trendy Elgin Street, set above downtown Ottawa and surrounded by glass on all sides.

While taking in the surroundings, clients can enjoy steaming cups of cappuccino, espresso, and regular and decaf coffee made from fresh-ground beans, as well as juice, sparkling water and more.

The full list of bells and whistles is extraordinary: one laser hair removal and electrolysis room; a massage/body treatment and facial room, including a walk-in shower with heated tile floors; a full esthetics room; a 300-sq.ft. nail bar with four manicure and four pedicure stations, chandeliers and booth-style seating; and two large cutting areas with more than 25 stations, a separate colour room with more than 15 chairs, plus the shampoo sinks. As if that weren't enough, Ottawa's first private hairstyling school integrated into a salon also claims space.

The Loft Academy offers an extensive curriculm to no more than 10 students each year.

“Both Paul and I always strive for top-quality services and products in a continuously updated, leading salon,” Racine says, adding that the Contessa nod “felt wonderful.”

“These changes were brought to the salon a little more than a year ago, after being in business for 13 years,” he says. “It was great to see The Loft recognized and nominated as one of the top-designed salons in Canada for 2011. All the hard work put into it for the last 13 years has definitely paid off.” S

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About us

Info:

The Loft, 380 Elgin Street, Ottawa, 613.232.0202, www.lespa.ca

Owners:

Bruno Racine and Paul Valetta

Opened:

1998

Salon Breakdown: 5,000-sq.ft. hair salon

and full-service spa,

including a 300-sq.ft. nail

bar, two large cutting

areas, a colour area and a

staff of 40 Designer:

Furniture & Equipment:

Concept by Lanvain (www.lanvain.com)

Retail:

L’Oréal Professionnel, Kérastase, Moroccan Oil, Schwarzkopf, AG Hair Cosmetics, Dermalogica, OPI, Jane Iredale Mineral

Makeup:

Simply Organic, L’Anza, Pureology, Shu Uemura

Software:

SalonWare

Reception area furniture from Phillip Van Leeuwen (www.artoffurniture.ca)

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CLASS ACT THE HOTTEST SCHOOLS IN BEAUTY For those considering a career in the professional beauty industry, choosing the right school is paramount to their success. But with so many different options available, how does one choose a school or program that will suit their specific needs? Some of the key elements to consider are: that the program takes place in a state-of-the-art facility, the curriculum is current and relevant, the instructors are knowledgeable and experienced industry professionals, as well as using a reputable product line.

Finally, check to see that the program or school offers a full range of courses. After all, there are many aspects of salon life that should be covered, such as business management, understanding retailing, solid hair cutting methods and colour principles.

Remember the top salons associate themselves with the best schools and in turn get the most successful graduates.

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BECOME A PROFESSIONAL

Follow your passion for beauty at Gina’s College. With over 30 years experience graduating top beauty professionals, we know what it takes to succeed in this industry –state of the art facilities and equipment, passionate instructors and an industry-leading curriculum. Our new hairstyling program in Waterloo is being called the region’s best.

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collections | videos news+events features | contessas education | jobs contests+giveaways blogs | products

MC College is Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leader in Hair and Esthetics Training.

With campuses across Western Canada, MC College uses education by Pivot Point which provides the educational structure to develop true hair designers. Our vision is to elevate the industry one graduate at a time. At MC College your Potential is our Passion. www.mcollege.ca EvelineCharles Academy Edmonton, Vancouver & Calgary incorporates state-of-the-art technology and training techniques, it is ITEC Certified and the only Sassoon Academy Connection School in Canada. EvelineCharles Academyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enhanced curriculum has a strong business focus incorporating NAIT Business Management Certificate Courses. Ask about the 3-Day Schedule and International Trip. Call 1.877.709.5672 www.ECacademy.com salon52.ca

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Advertisement

HIGHER LEARNING It doesn’t matter if you’re a year out of cosmetology school or twenty years—continuing your education is always a good idea.

During your first years in the industry, classes help you build a strong foundation and hone your basic skills. Courses focusing on business can also help you acquire and grow a client base as well as strengthen your retailing—all vitally important if you want to make a good living at doing what you love. Plus, it’ll help you keep up on the latest trends and teach you how to adapt the classics for today’s clients.

For stylists who have mastered the basics, continuing education means you never stop growing and challenging yourself. It helps you keep your styles fresh for clients and refine your mastery of your craft.

When you’re ready to up your game, taking classes will keep you inspired, thinking outside the box, ready to push your own boundaries and most of all, be a better hairstylist.

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The Fiorio Beauty Academy offers courses designed for the beginner, to seasoned professional.

Our courses focus on advanced European techniques, with an emphasis on professionalism. Our graduates have a 95% success rate in in the industry obtaining long lasting careers in all areas of the beauty industry. Book your free tour today!

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Premier Hairstyling and Makeup Artistry School in Missisauga.

Registered as a private career college under the private career colleges act, 2005, Academy of Hair Passion offers one of the most advanced and modernly equipped hairstyling training facilities in Missisauga. Successful careers begin at Academy of Hair Passion www.academyofhairpassion.com.

905.624.8448.

Offering beginner and advanced Esthetics training programs from LCN Artificial Nails, Manicures and Pedicures to Facials, Advanced Facials, IPL/ Laser training, Permanent Make Up, Chemical Peeling, Medical Esthetics and more!

Why Esthetics Plus? Continued technical and business support.

Highly qualified Instructors.

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NEW! NOVALASH Eyelash Extension training!

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George Brown College offers training in esthetics, makeup and nails. The Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics features specialized studios and instruction from active industry professionals.

With day, evening and weekend classes, as well as payment on a course-by-course basis, pursue your dream career on your time and at your pace. Visit www.yorkvilleschool.com, call 416-415-5000 ext. 4070 or email info@yorkvilleschool.com salon52.ca

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EARN YOUR DIPLOMA

IN THREE SEMESTERS

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SCOOP

THE MILLION-DOLLAR MAN At the 2011 Redken National Sales Meeting in Las Vegas, Guy Robitaille (centre) of Concept JP became the first-ever sales consultant to sell $1 million worth of Redken in the history of Redken Canada. Of the recognition, he said, “It is the progression of 20 years of work and never losing site of the goals that I gave myself, and to believe that dreams can be realized. You have to respect your clients, listen to their needs and help them grow their business.”

GET DOWN TO EARTH

Eco-beauty brand Aveda is celebrating Earth Month with its Walk for Water campaign, salon promotions and a limited edition Light The Way soy candle.

On April 27, Aveda’s global network will participate in Walk for Water, a series of worldwide walks to raise awareness for developing countries without access to clean water. Walks stretch six kilometres, representing the average distance that women in developing countries walk to collect water each day.

Throughout the month of April, salon guests can also purchase Aveda’s 2011 Light the Way certified organic French lavender candle for $13—all proceeds from the purchase will go to Global Greengrants Funds water-related projects.

Now in its 12th year, Aveda’s Earth Month efforts has raised more than $18 million for environmental organizations and $12 million in the past four years for water-related causes.

For more information, go to Aveda.com or visit facebook.com/AvedaCanada.

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No time for education outside the salon?

Check out Saco’s online hair education at www.sacohaironline.com.

The renowned international salon and academy group, with locations in London, Montreal, San Diego and Bourdeaux, France, offers four different membership levels, giving you access to a wide selection of video instruction across multiple categories.

City of Hope Honouree Joico senior vice-president and general manager Sara Jones has been named recipient of the 2011 Spirit of Life Award and will receive the award at the annual Spirit of Life Award Dinner on July 30. Held in conjunction with the Professional Beauty Association’s Beauty Week 2011 in Las Vegas in July, the annual gala is a who’s who of the industry. Jones will be recognized for her outstanding philanthropic and business contributions. She has been a longtime supporter of City of Hope and of issues relating to salon professionals and their clients. Proceeds from this year’s gala will be earmarked for women’s cancers research and treatments.

Oops!

On p. 48 of Salon Magazine’s March 2011 issue, we misattributed quotes from Grace Martinez. The information should have been attributed to Penny Abs, General Commissionaire Schwarzkopf Professional Hairapaloozas.

MODEL PHOTO: HAIR: CHRISTEL LUNDGVOST. HOB SALON. TOP RIGHT PHOTO: DOUG PRIMEAU, PRIMEAU MULTIMEDIA INC.

AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

salon52.ca

3/3/11 2:21:42 PM

north american hairstyling awards produced by the professional beauty association

2011

Hair by 2010 NAHA finalist Ashley Hall

probeauty.org/naha

Las Vegas - July 31 Red Carpet Reception 6:30pm - 8:00pm Awards Ceremony 8:00pm - 9:30pm facebook.com/pbabeautyweek

Join us for the NAHA After Party following the Awards Ceremony!

Tickets:

PBA members $75 $85 after July 1, 2011 Non-members $85 $95 after July 1, 2011

Michael Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Rourke Lifetime Achievement Award

Stan Klet Hall of Leaders

probeauty.org/naha or call 866.229.2386 (301.694.5243) Planning to attend PBA Symposium? Purchase a PBA Symposium package that includes a ticket to NAHA 2011.

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Subscribe

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America Crew Superglue pg 31........................800-387-7980

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China Glaze Anchors Away pg 45.....................800-621-9585......................... www.chinaglaze.com CND Colour & Effects pg 17.............................877-CND-NAIL....................... www.cnd.com/colour3sm

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❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________

Milano Software pg 94.......................................800-667-1596......................... www.milanosoftware.com Mixed Chicks Haircare pg 95.............................877-888-0480......................... www.mixedchicks.net May Cosmetics Mon Platin pg 92.................................................................... www.monplatin.ca NAHA 2011 pg 87...............................................866-229-5243......................... www.probeauty.org/naha Oligo Professionnel Alcove pg 21.....................877-837-6426......................... www.oligoprofessionnel.com OPI Soft Shades pg 15.......................................800-341-9999......................... www.opi.com Orofluido pg 22...................................................800-387-7980......................... www.orofluido.com Pivot Point pg 83................................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpointcanada.ca

# of Employees ____

Premiere Orlando 2011 pg 71............................800-335-7469......................... www.primereorlandoshow.biz

What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________

Redken Intra Force pg 2-3................................866-973-3536......................... www.redken.ca

What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________

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Revlon Professional Style Masters pg 13.........800-387-7980 Schwarzkopf Bonacure pg 29...........................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 10-11......................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora Color 10 pg 4-5..................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Professional Color Ignite pg 8-9......800-267-1969......................... www.sebastianprofessional.com Star Nail Canada pg 79......................................877-852-7827......................... www.starnailcanada.com TIGI Bed Head pg 51.........................................800-259-8596......................... www.tigihaircare.com Unite Expanda Dust pg 6-7...............................888-95-UNITE........................ www.unitehair.com salon52.ca

3/3/11 3/7/09 4:42:19 5:04:36 PM PM

EVENTS

Highlights from ISSE Long Beach The International Salon and Spa Expo—the West Coast’s largest beauty event­—was held in Long Beach, Calif., attracting more than 40,000 pros to the three-day beauty show. It looked a little something like this: a sold-out show floor, tons of edgy stylists, plus big names such as Tabatha Coffey, Beth Minardi, Damien Carney and Jan Arnold. Back by popular demand was Toronto’s own Fanone team, who impresses the crowd every year on the main stage. Big trends seen at the show were smoothing treatments and argan oils from Morocco, which continue to have a big presence in the industry.

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EVENTS

Matrix goes South Matrix held a four-day sales conference in sunny Cancun, Mexico. Aptly named Imagine All You Can Be, more than 200 participants from across Canada, including sales consultants from BSG, International Beauty Services, Maritime Beauty Supply and Star BĂŠdard, attended the event, which featured new launches, promotional strategies and key messages on the year ahead for Matrix.

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3/2/11 4:04:58 PM

Moroccanoil’s Canadian debut The company held its first event in Canada to celebrate a partnership with celeb stylist Robert Vetica. Held at Mildred Temple’s Kitchen in Toronto, Vetica was on hand for a special presentation. Moroccanoil also introduced its new Curl Defining Mousse at the luncheon, which eliminates frizz and holds curls in place by adding natural lipids to the hair.

Montreal Fashion Week A sneak peak of fall fashion hit Montreal with a dazzling display of high-voltage creativity ranging from 1970s retro-cool elegance to a futuristic staging by Jean-Jacques Pillet of Cirque de Soleil. Denis Gagnon put on a two-part show starting with black and more black and then exploding in the second half with models sporting bold colours of fuchsia, citron, bubblegum pink, pistachio and turquoise. Gravity-defying loose chignons dotted the runway, while at Nadya Toto, hair was spun, airy and big, like a sophisticated sweet confection. Interestingly, hats abounded—hopefully not an omen of bad hair days ahead for fall.

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EVENTS

Create the Difference

Natural Silk Therapy Black Caviar Collection

For further inquires on current distribution: Head Office (Canada): phone: 905.482.4399, 416.834.4729 fax: 289.597.0224 www.monplatin.com maycosmetics@yahoo.ca

BRANCH OUT

Vidal Sassoon unveils spring/summer collection The new collection, dubbed Demi-Monde—meaning underworld—mingles corporate and sexy with a dark edge.

It's inspired by the 1920s photographer Vitrine Brassai, who captured Paris’ moody night scenes—a mix of elegant exterior shots and the underworld of the city's bordellos and opium dens. The collection also drew inspiration from Dior and Gaultier shows, featuring vintage-inspired undergarments worn over clothing, paired with well-tailored business fashion.

In true Sassoon style, the collection includes a bob cut with a heavy fringe, a short textured cut and a sleek bob with a side part. Multi-tones applied to the interior add subtle accents.

Help Plant Our Urban Forests

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Salon Magazine 04-11:Salon Magazine 07/07

3/2/11

11:13 AM

Page 1

Salon Magazine 04/11 Ad Size Kérastase celebrates 10 years3.75”W in Canada x 10” H To celebrate 10 years in Canada, Kérastase delved into a decidedly luxurious atmosphere in Cancun with the Ultimate Experience K. In January, the Kérastase team headed to Mexico’s warm beaches for the exclusive unveiling of the 2011 marketing plan, as well as presentations from the world’s most-acclaimed specialists, including beauty business guru Geno Stampora.

Introducing...

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11 Stores to Serve You

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EVENTS

Schwarzkopf reveals spring’s hottest trends At Toronto’s Rosewater Supper Club, Schwarzkopf Professional unveiled a look at spring and summer trends for 2011. Tyler Colton, a Los Angelesbased celebrity stylist and Schwarzkopf professional artist, joined Essential Looks artist Rasa Jurenas on stage to talk about the trends, and to take a look at the products that can be used to achieve the styles. Wearing dresses by Canadian designer Lucian Matis, the first two models showed off glam ponytails, while the rest displayed curly locks that ranged from loose, beachy waves to more defined spirals.

Milano Software Solutions to Achieve Excellence Milano Software provides the beauty industry with software that helps them achieve business excellence Milano is committed to promoting, recognizing and sponsoring “the business side of beauty” That’s why they’ve co-created and founded two awards for the beauty industry Salon Business Excellence Award

NAHA North American Hairstyling Awards

Salon Master Business Award

Learn more, call 1-800-667-1596 email business@milanosoftware.com

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salon52.ca

3/3/11 2:14:36 PM

L’Oréal opens new academy L’Oréal Canada has officially opened the L’Oréal Studio University in Montreal, its second Academy in Canada, following Toronto. The brainchild of Mikaël Henry, senior vicepresident, who developed the project, and Colin Ford, director of education and events, who oversaw all the technical aspects, the airy, all-white space boasts 2,080-sq.ft., five sinks and 18 styling stations. What’s more, the new studio can be completely reconfigured on a whim to suit any type of presentation, from formal classes to cocktail parties, for all the brands.

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EVENTS

Koi Hair Studio opening night Redken performing artist Jorge Joao, and Steve and Kiki Rego, co-owners of the new Koi Hair Studio in Brampton, Ont., threw quite the opening-night party for friends, family and clients, including representatives from Redken and distributor Alternative Beauty Services. A DJ spun music, while models showcasing great cuts and colours from the team handed out gift bags to attendees. A grand prize winner was also selected by a random draw to receive a cut and colour makeover, a spa treatment and dinner for two at a local restaurant, courtesy of Koi.

APRIL 2011 isse-Midwest March 26-28, 2011 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, Ill. Info: probeauty.org/isse ABA toronto March 27-28, 2011 Toronto Info: abacanada.com CARNIVAL OF BEAUTY April 9-11, 2011 Halifax World Trade & Convention Centre Halifax Info: maritimebeauty.com ABA WINNIPEG April 10-11, 2011 Winnipeg Convention Centre Winnipeg Info: abacanada.com

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ABA VANCOUVER April 17-18, 2011 B.C. Place Stadium Vancouver Info: abacanada.com

Great Lengths Educational Programs Info: greatlengthscanada.com

Hair CLASSES

L’Oréal Professionnel Educational Programs Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture & the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI Educational Programs Info: 888.251.8466 global best beauty Educational Programs Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 Goldwell Educational Programs Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

KMS Educational Programs Info: 877.670.6767

Matrix Educational Programs Info: 888.422.6879 Redken Educational Programs Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP Educational Programs Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor

TIGI Educational Programs Info: 800.259.8596 Urban Beauty Systems Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

Nail & Esthetics CLASSES Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND Educational Programs Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN Educational Programs Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings Star Nail Educational Programs Info: 800.661.9997 S

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L

High, Medium and Low

et’s go back in time to 1961. I was two years into my apprenticeship in London with Robert Edele at his progressive Carol London salon. We were moving with the times and weaning clients off their weekly roller sets. Wash-and-wear styles had just started to make their appearance, thanks to Vidal Sassoon.

Sassoon wanted to be an architect when he was young. His passion for geometry, design and angles showed up everywhere in his groundbreaking work. In the recent documentary about his impactful life, he says, “I wanted to eliminate the superfluous and get down to the basic angles of cut and shape.” His revolutionary ideas were very far from the roller setting, backcombing, pinning and hair spraying that were the norm back then. He cut the style into the hair, and let it swing free.

Of course not every client wanted to make that radical change, which meant a stylist still had to do roller sets, as well as the new haircuts. So, for the sets, which required pin curls and rollers, the stylist put in the basic outline with rollers and side-pin curls and then passed the client to an experienced assistant, with the words, “Pin up the back for me.” I got a big thrill from hearing those words. It meant I was just a couple of months away from going on the floor as a junior stylist.

Cut to today. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist the pun.) I see a similarity when stylists ask an assistant to blow-dry the client’s hair. Currently, women of all ages want the long, layered, soft look that requires a good blow-dry with a round brush.

Did you know that before the hair dryer was invented, people used a vacuum cleaner to dry their hair? This was the 1800s, when some vacuum cleaners came with hair-drying attachments. So, the vacuum cleaner inspired the first real hair dryer, invented in 1890 by Alexandre Goldefroy, to use in his hair salon in France. Women sat under it to dry their hair, which, come to think of it, still happens today.

But the best hair-drying story I ever heard came from a cab driver, back in the 1970s. When I asked about the most interesting fare he’d ever had, he told me it was a man he picked up regularly in a well-heeled part of Toronto. This customer hired the cab to drive him along the Gardiner Expressway, so he could hang his head out of the window and blow-dry his hair…

Maybe the trend will move away from blow-drying with a round brush, and women will have their hair cut shorter, more wash-and-wear, but still soft. And maybe a superstar will start that trend. Emma Watson, of Harry Potter fame, attracted a lot of attention last summer when she went from long hair to a short pixie cut.

But for my money, the real trendsetter will be another young lady from England — Jessie J. This singer-songwriter can wear a long bob haircut with a full fringe (touched up with the Denman hairbrush) like nobody’s business. And given the millions of people who watch her videos on YouTube, and her creativity in style as well as music, I think she might be as big a trendsetter as the Spice Girls or even Madonna.

Bring it on. Change is good. S

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John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

TOP PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, STEINBERG PHOTO: BARRIE WENTZELL

LAST WORD

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3/2/11 3:18:29 PM

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