Salon Magazine, April 2017 by Salon Communications Inc.

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Features 54

Preventive Measures Working all day behind the chair can take a toll on your health. We speak with some hairstylists and wellness experts for tips on preventing injuries.

Wellness by Design It’s important to have a workspace that supports you and your health. We’ve put together a guide for streamlining your space without the need of a major overhaul.

Great Expectations Whether it’s a new cut or colour, clients can sometimes have the most unrealistic requests. We gather some expert tips for keeping their expectations in check.

60 MICHAEL PIASTRINO AND ADRIAN ROTOLO, IBIZA HAIR, AUSTRALIA

Collections Michael Piastrino and Adrian Rotolo; Robert Eaton; Rossa Jurenas; Trevor Sorbie; Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks; Marlo Steenman; Shogo Ideguchi; Michael Crispel; Jason Kearns; Salon Entrenous; Goldwell; Krysten-Ashley Garrod; Vu Nguyen

ON OUR COVER: Hair: Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton, U.K. Makeup: Lucy Flower Styling: Desiree Lederer & Leila Ali Photo: Richard Miles

a p r i l .1 7

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Editor’s Letter

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32 35

68 SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

92 BROSSÉS, MONTREAL

Hairlines Change up your styling go-tos with the latest products and styling tips, plus our “greenery” inspired nail polish picks.

Contessa Gallery Rodrigo Araneda, Contessa 28 Finalist, Canadian Colourist of the Year

Benefit of Your Health Insurance provides staff with peace of mind. Since it can be a costly investment for salon owners, we speak with the experts on how to ensure that your insurance has you covered.

74 FINALIST, CONTESSA 28 ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, MICHAEL CRISPEL

SalonMagazine.ca This month at SalonMagazine.ca

90 92

Profile Colour revolution: Leland Hirsch

Interiors Scandi style: Brossés, Montreal

Events + Scoop

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72 42 THINK GREEN

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PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

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EDITOR’S LETTER

What the Health?

hen was the last time you did something for your health? I don’t mean that cold-pressed juice you drank this morning as part of your latest cleanse diet. I’m talking

about the real nitty-gritty stuff, like making time for regular physical activity, eating well, taking regular breaks throughout the day and doing it all on a consistent basis. Working in your current comfort zone probably seems a whole lot easier because it’s familiar, but you’ll likely discover a whole new confidence that can push you further, making you faster and much stronger. Whenever I’m asked how the beauty industry relates to my experience as a health editor, it’s a simple answer: Beauty and health are a dynamic duo with an intuitive connection. Just as your client's hair won’t shine if they’re not taking care of their health, it’s tough for hairstylists to help their clients look and feel good without first taking care of themselves. Creating a lifestyle that’s focused on your personal wellness might not seem easy at first, but in reality it’s easier than you think. After a long day behind the chair or teaching classes, a cardio session might be last on your list but you’ll find you have more energy once you’ve found your way to a consistent fit groove. Along with making the time you need outside the salon, there are many things that can be done inside salons that will add years to your career. In Preventive Measures (page 54) you’ll find tips for a better posture, along with ways to prevent repetitive stress injuries. advice for incorporating ergonomically friendly features into their salons. Along with all the health advice, we’ve also rounded up the best hair inspo from around the globe. Think of it all as a fresh start, just in time for spring!

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

a p r i l .1 7

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

On page 56, Wellness By Design offers salon owners some sound

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 26 issue 5

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie Gallant 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

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Corinna Reeves GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca

Take Good Care

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Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca ACCOUNT MANAGER

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hen I worked in a salon, I remember how often we would

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

burn the candle at both ends. In an industry that many

OPERATIONS MANAGER

Karren Han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

people view as glamorous, long days and longer nights

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were a combination that made for seriously unglamorous work.

BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

For hairstylists, who are on their feet—often heels—for 10 to 12

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.114 nicole@salonmagazine.ca

hours a day, with their arms elevated to blow-dry long hair using a

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round brush, the work can literally put your hands in spasms and the nail technicians, who sit crouched often straining to perform repetitive

from job-related injuries that can be debilitating and even career

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In much the same way, salon professionals are people pleasers I was a beauty pro, too. But today we know so much more about

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taking care of ourselves: Eating healthy, getting enough rest and following a regular exercise routine has so many benefits, not to mention offering a perfect mental release from the daily grind. I’m thrilled that our editors have put together an issue packed with great stories about good health. Isn’t it time you treat yourself by taking care of you?

Laura Dunphy Publisher

a p r i l .1 7

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

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LET THE VOTING BEGIN! Cast your ballot for your one and only—those products and tools you just can’t live without—to be entered for a chance to win two tickets to #Contessa2018 on November 12, 2017.

FORGET SPRING CLEANING Give your salon a quick facelift with our spring decorating picks. From replacing the cushions in your waiting area to finding new and creative ways to display products, we

GOING GREENERY

SAY YES TO THE TRESS Getting requests for bridal hairstyles? See our bridal

Inspired by the 2017 Pantone Colour of the Year, we’re asking master colourists and seasoned experts how they would incorporate “greenery” into the latest colour trends. Can it be done? Find out at SalonMagazine.ca.

SalonMag

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Salon_Magazine

salonmagazine

trends roundup and browse our extensive collections online to see what’s #ontrend this season for “I do” dos.

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections! SalonMagazine

PHOTOS: FINALIST, CONTESSA 26 CANADIAN COLOURIST MICHELLE PARGEE, MILICA SALON SPA, LANGLEY, B.C., MAKEUP: ASHLEY LOVSIN, PHOTO: GREG SWALES;THINKSTOCK; HAIR AND STYLING: ANNA SORBIE, MAKEUP:HELEN ARCHER, PHOTO: PAUL GILL

have your #inspo fix.

Salon Magazine

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HAIRLINES NEWS

A Reckoning Force Schwarzkopf Professional adds bond protection to its newly revamped BlondMe range. Schwarzkopf Professional’s beloved BlondMe is new and improved, with an updated range of products that now includes the brand’s exclusive bond-enforcing technology. Added to

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: AMERICAN CREW, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

ABOUT FACE Transform skin with the new American Crew All-In-One Face Balm.

BlondMe’s lifting, lightening, colour and care products, the technology works to strengthen bonds and protect hair throughout all stages of colour. Complete with luxurious rose goldcoloured packaging, the new line is a must-have for taking your clients’ hair throughout the blonde spectrum while minimizing damage.

This new addition to American Crew’s Shaving Skincare line is a daily, anti-aging moisturizer that helps soothe freshly shaved skin. With an innovative blend of ingredients, the face balm prevents irritation and ingrown hairs and contains broad-spectrum SPF 15 to fight signs of aging caused by sun damage. It’s perfect to use immediately after shaving or as a daily moisturizer to keep men’s skin feeling fresh and revitalized.

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MATTE MASTER PAUL MITCHELL EXPANDS THE COLOR XG MATTE SERIES WITH FOUR NEW SHADES. The Color XG Matte Series is growing with the addition of four new shades that feature green undertones for eliminating orange and red tones. The permanent colour line is easy to use and features the DyeSmart system, which offers maximum colour penetration while prolonging results.

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Desert Storm Embrace earthy tones in the new Le Beige Collection from Wella Professionals. Expanding on the success of its bronde shades, Wella’s new Le Beige Collection is designed to support colour contouring and features six new shades from the brand’s Koleston Perfect and Color Touch lines. Inspired by the desert, the new line uses Wella’s state of the art shade-matching technology for modern yet natural-looking results. “The Le Beige collection is flattering because it’s customized to the individual,” says Antonio Quintieri, top stylist and educator for Wella Professionals. “We’re using the hair colour to sculpt a client’s ideal face shape with colour contouring—using the colour beige tones, the collection is flattering on a wide range of skin tones. Read more about the Le Beige collection in our colour story on page 48.

SEEING THE LIGHT Optimize blonde colour with the Joico Blonde Life lightening and brightening system. Helping you achieve up to nine levels of lift and up to eight weeks of luminous colour, the four-piece line includes Brightening Shampoo, Brightening Conditioner, Brightening Masque and Lightening Powder. The sulfate-free shampoo involves a high-tech system that uses micelles for removing dirt and oil. The lightweight conditioner detangles hair and provides hydration and shine. In addition to providing intensive hydration, the masque detoxifies hair and neutralizes chlorine. The lightening powder includes a powerful, conditioning blend of arginine, tamanu and monoi oils, and can be used on or off the scalp for a safer, faster lift.

Model Behaviour Hailey Baldwin and Taylor Hill are the newest faces of L’Oréal Professionnel. After gracing the pages of countless magazines and strutting catwalks around the world, models Hailey Baldwin and Taylor Hill are joining L’Oréal Professionnel as international brand ambassadors. Baldwin, who is the daughter of actor Stephen Baldwin, will be the face of the 2017 campaign for Pro Fiber, the brand’s hair care line for long-lasting repair. She will also be the muse for L’Oréal Professionnel’s spring/summer and fall/winter It Looks with French stylist Vanessa Bruno. The partnership with Bruno includes the release of 24 new Inoa shades inspired by nature. Hill, who has been making waves in fashion and on social media as a Victoria’s Secret Angel, will be the face of L’Oréal Professionnel’s Série Expert hair care relaunch and campaign for Majirel colour correction, a service inspired by makeup for correcting colour, adding radiance and enhancing natural colour. Marion Brunet, international general manager for L’Oréal Professionnel, says both models embody the young generation of women who enjoy experimenting with their hair colour and style to express who they are.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, JOICO

to accentuate a part of the client’s face.” With a blend of warm and cool

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Get Toned Prevent brass with Pravana’s new The Perfect Brunette teal toning system.

FASHIONABLE COLOUR Celeb Luxury debuts its Gem Lites and Vivids product lines in Canada. Colourists rejoiced when industry icon Leland Hirsch (who we have profiled on page 90) debuted his brand, Celeb

It’s not just blondes

Luxury, and its innovative range

that need to worry

of products. Now available in

about brassiness;

Canada, Celeb Luxury includes

brunettes can now

the Gem Lites and Viral lines, both of which feature a

protect their colour

Colorwash that combines cleansing and colour into

with the new teal toning system from Pravana. The Perfect

one easy step thanks to its patent-pending Colorposit

Brunette contains a sulfate-free shampoo, conditioner and masque

technology. Gem Lites includes four blondes, three reds

with the brand’s unique teal toning complex for neutralizing those

and three browns, while Viral includes seven extreme

unwanted orange, red and copper tones. The masque contains

shades and three pastels. Each Colorwash can be used

cocoa butter and coconut oil, which provide hair with increased

at the sink as a replacement for permanent or demi-

shine, strength and elasticity. Use the system at the backbar for

permanent colour and a faster, more accurate, and cost-

clients whose hair is in need of some TLC and encourage them to

effective option for achieving brilliant results. Both lines

use it at home for maintenance.

also include home care products and stylers, so that clients can maintain their colour between visits.

PLATINUM STRENGTH Prevent brass with the Deepshine PlatinumX hair care collection from Rusk. it’s important to protect their colour from brass. RUSK has introduced its new hair care range designed for those with platinum, grey, silver, white, blonde and highlighted hair. The collection includes Shampoo, Conditioner, Repair Treatment, Lusterizer, Shine Spray, Gel, Hairspray and Mousse and is formulated with optimal amounts of violet pigment to preserve bright colour while preventing discolouration.

The Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Awards are returning for the sixth year and, with the addition of two new categories, you can say it’s our biggest awards yet! Will your hero product reign supreme? Vote in all 22 categories from March 30 to April 14 and be entered for a chance to win two tickets to this year’s Contessa Awards! To vote, go to ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca.

a p r i l .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: PRAVANA, CELEB LUXURY, RUSK

CAST YOUR VOTES!

With more and more clients choosing to go lighter this season,

Speed. Performance. Style.

BabylissPRO Rapido™ is a trademark of and/or under license by Babyliss SARL

What’s New for Contessa 29! Know what’s in and out for this year’s Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards.

SAVE THE DATE

KNOW IT ALL

It’s official: The Contessa 29 gala is set for We can’t emphasize enough how important it is Sunday, November 12, 2017. Mark your calendars to read every single rule in our official Contessa for the biggest night in Canadian hairstyling! rules and regulations, so we are breaking down the guidelines for photo manipulation (i.e. WELCOMING Photoshop) to make it crystal-clear.

INTERNATIONAL TALENT We’ve added a brand new category and it’s huge: International Hairstylist of the Year is our newest addition, and we couldn’t be more excited! It’s by nomination only, so stay tuned for more details.

SO LONG! Out with the old and in with the new! This year we are saying farewell to the Hair Extensions of the Year category. While it’s not easy to say goodbye, don’t fret: You’re welcome to enter those collections in one of the other 22 categories.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa for more information and a full list of the updated rules & regulations.

TOOLBOX

HAIRLINES NEWS

Curlbar from Hot Tools Professional “It’s an ergonomic solution for stylists who are styling hair all day, because it helps reduce strain on arms, shoulders and backs. The new orientation of the barrel and dial is intuitive, making it incredibly easy to wrap curls. It has the best performance of any curling iron in the Hot Tools family.” –TERRI TARICCO-CROPP, VICE-PRESIDENT OF MARKETING FOR HOT TOOLS PROFESSIONAL Ergonomic 90° design reduces stress on arms 120-minute auto shut-off and optional curl timer with vibration indicator for uniform results

history IN THE MAKING Viola Desmond has gone from hairdresser to modern-day heroine.

Easy-to-read digital temperature controls with eight heat settings from 310°F to 450°F

When news broke that Viola Desmond was going to be the first Canadian woman to grace Canada’s $10 bill in 2018, it was a historical moment. But did you know that she was a hairdresser? Throughout the ’30s and ’40s, Desmond overcame obstacles that prevented black women from attending beauty schools in Halifax. She travelled to Montreal, New York and New Jersey, where she received a diploma from the Apex College of Beauty Culture and Hairdressing. In 1937, Desmond continued to break barriers by opening Vi’s Studio of Beauty Culture in Halifax, and later she began manufacturing and marketing her own beauty products. In the face of adversity, Desmond never gave up her dream of becoming a successful entrepreneur. As the first Canadian

9-foot tangle-free swivel cord

woman to be featured on a Bank of Canada note, Desmond and her story of strength and perseverance are sure to inspire others for years to come.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HOT TOOLS, PROFESSIONAL, BANK OF CANADA

Pulse technology delivers faster heat-up and instant recovery

HAIRLINES THINK GREEN

Eco by the Numbers

GET GROUNDED PLANT A TREE WITH PAUL MITCHELL’S TEA

Green Circle Salons gives us an update on its recent* environmental initiatives.

TREE AND REFOREST’ACTION. In celebration of Earth Month and in support of Reforest’Action, Tea Tree is pledging to plant

Since 2009, Green Circle Salons (GCS)

750,000 trees in Guatemala, Peru, Haiti and

has partnered with salons across North

the U.S. by the end of 2019. As part of the

America with the goal of making the

brand’s Rooted in Green campaign, the initiative

industry sustainable by the year 2020.

encourages salons and clients to show their

With GCS, hair clippings are used for a

support for the environment and provides an

range of repurposing initiatives including

opportunity to stock up and save on Tea Tree

oil boom manufacturing. Hair colour

shampoo and conditioner sets, including Tea Tree Special, Lemon Sage and new Lavender Mint. Visit

byproduct, metals (foils, colour tubes and aerosol cans), salon tools, light bulbs,

paulmitchell.com/reforestaction to learn more and

batteries, mannequin heads and spa

plant your free tree with this code: TEATREE17.

waste are also safely recycled. Shane Price, founder and CEO of GCS, says the company’s goal for 2017 is to divert one

Nurtured by Nature Kérastase launches its first natural product line, Aura Botanica.

million pounds of salon waste from North American landfills and waterways. “There is no better time than Earth Month to get started on our program,” says Price. “In today’s business climate, a green strategy is critical to the growth and prosperity of

The new product line contains 98

your business. We are here to provide

per cent naturally derived ingredients

that pathway to sustainability.”

and is the first of its kind launched years of development, Aura Botanica

1,400 SALONS IN NORTH AMERICA

formulas contain Samoan coconut

1,150 SALONS IN CANADA

oil, Moroccan argan oil and a blend of avocado oil, jojoba oil, sweet orange essential oil, rosemary extract and damask rose floral water. They are silicone- and sulfate-free, providing hair with up to 48 hours of durability, 72 hours of frizz control and four times more shine. The four-piece collection consists of Bain Micellaire Gentle Aromatic Shampoo, Soin Fondamental Intense Moisturizing Conditioner, Concentré Essentiel Aromatic Nourishing Oil Blend and Essence d’Éclat Moisturizing Oil Mist and is 97 per cent biodegradable, with all of its packaging produced with post-consumer recycled plastic.

a p r i l .1 7

Kérastase has also introduced a luxurious insalon service to further enhance your client’s experience. The service begins with a hand massage using Aura Botanica’s Concentré Essentiel Aromatic Nourishing Oil Blend before it is applied to the hair. The oil is then used for a relaxing scalp massage and is washed twice with the line’s Bain Micellaire Gentle Aromatic Shampoo. For a deep conditioning, the hair is treated with Soin Fondamental Intense Moisturizing Conditioner, along with drops of Concentré Essentiel Aromatic Nourishing Oil Blend for additional nourishment. It is then followed by another scalp massage and finished with Essence d’Éclat Moisturizing Oil Mist.

322,502.52 pounds of hair clippings 215,001.68 pounds of hair colour 559,004.38 pounds of foil and colour tubes 1,053,508.28 pounds of paper and plastics *As of 2016

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:THINKSTOCK, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, AVEDA CANADA, KEVIN.MURPHY, GREEN CIRCLE SALONS, KÉRASTASE

by the brand. With more than five

CONSCIOUS

conservation Taking a closer look at how brands are doing their part to preserve the planet.

JOICO

AVEDA CANADA

Since partnering with Green Circle Salons last year, Joico and its

Access to Clean Water Gives Mothers Time

parent company, Zotos International, have diverted more than four

is the name of Aveda Canada’s 2017 Earth

million pounds (86 per cent of its total solid waste stream) from

Month campaign, which sheds light on

landfills thanks to recycling and repurposing processes. As they

women living in Madagascar who spend an

continue towards a zero-waste target goal in 2020, Zotos hopes to

estimated 40 billion hours each year collecting

achieve 30 per cent reduction in water usage and wastewater and

water. Last year, Aveda Canada started the

hazardous waste generation in 2017. Zotos will continue reducing

three-year Madagascar Project, which is

its carbon footprint in 2018 by phasing out its propane-powered

committed to providing 100 per cent access

vehicles, planting 40 trees on its property and maximizing the use

to clean water in two districts in Madagascar

and reliability of its wind turbines.

for approximately 19,000 people. Since

DAVINES Last year, Davines was certified by B Corporation, an international network of businesses that are committed to upholding positive business

several of Aveda Canada’s key ingredients, such as vanilla, cinnamon and ylang ylang, are sourced from Madagascar, the company hopes the project will help give back. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to learn more about Aveda Canada’s Earth Month initiatives and how you can get involved.

practices for people and the environment. Davines’ energy consumption, emissions, water and waste reduction were analyzed and, of course, passed with flying colours. It’s no surprise since Davines has been committed to sustainable practices since 2000, including zero-impact packaging for a wide range of its products, which are produced using energy from renewable sources and reduced plastic. The products in the brand’s Essential Haircare and SU sunscreen lines also contain many naturally derived, biodegradable ingredients. Davines was also the recipient of the prestigious 2016 Oscar Dell‘Imballaggio award in Italy for best eco-

PUREOLOGY With its 100 per cent vegan formulas consisting of naturally derived ingredients and plant extracts, Pureology has remained committed to preserving the environment. This year, the brand is switching to 100 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) bottles for its new product launches, which are silicone- and paraben-free and contain no petroleum or mineral oil.

KEVIN.MURPHY

packaging for its Mask with Vibrachrom Activator, which consists of a

Kevin.Murphy has been working with The Climate Reality

polypropylene and polyethylene eco-friendly bottle.

Project, a climate change leadership program led by Al

Davines is also working with Italian architects Matteo Thun and Luca Colombo (MTLC) on the creation of the brand’s new headquarters in Parma, Italy. The village, which is more than 118,000 square feet, includes two-storey houses, a garden and greenhouses for the production, packaging and storage of the brand’s hair and skin-care products. It will also provide hairstylists and aestheticians with education and training. The village’s design is inspired by classic Italian farmhouses and is being built to meet the high standards of environmental and ethical sustainability, staying true to the brand’s sustainable commitment. Construction is expected to finish later this year.

Gore. The non-profit organization provides education about climate change and works towards finding solutions worldwide. The brand’s founder, Kevin Murphy, has been named an official Climate Reality Project presenter, making him responsible for communicating climate control messages to Kevin.Murphy’s network of industry professionals and consumers. In honour of Earth Day on April 22, Kevin.Murphy will be making a cash donation to The Climate Reality Project for each can of Fresh.Hair dry shampoo, in efforts to reduce the brand’s global carbon footprint.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

a p r i l .1 7

Rave Reviews Essie “nails it” on the awards season’s red carpets. From the Golden Globes to the Oscars, this awards season has been filled with chic manis. Celebrity manicurists Julie Kandalec, Kimmie Kyees, Christina Aviles Aude and Emi Kudo were hard at work polishing nails for many of Hollywood’s elite. Metallics were a huge trend, as seen on Best Supporting Actress winner Viola Davis, who sported Essie’s

Green with Envy

HAIRLINES NAILS

CHINA GLAZE Grass is Lime Greener is sure to be a staple that’s perfect for transitioning into sunnier months.

CND Toe The Lime is an aptly named shade that perfectly embodies this colour trend.

bronze Leggy Legend and copper Penny Talk at the Golden Globes and SAG Awards. Nude nails continue to be a hit: At the Golden Globes, model Chrissy Teigen wore Topless & Barefoot, while Essie Gel Couture’s At The Barre was seen on TV stars Mandy Moore and Julia Louis-Dreyfus. Darker nail shades were also a popular choice: At the SAG Awards actresses Kristen Bell and Taylor Schilling wore the brand’s crimson Wicked and red wine Bordeaux. With all eyes on celebrity red-carpet looks, these nail colour trends are sure to make

OPI Shimmer this season with the pearly green My Gecko Does Tricks.

their way into your salon this season.

Bio Sculpture Gel continues its environmentally friendly initiatives.

ESSIE Get going this spring with the vibrant green On The Roadie.

Since its beginnings, Bio Sculpture Gel has made protecting the environment a priority. The brand’s ultra-modern factory located in Clocolan, a small town in South Africa, is environmentally friendly and has been built to maximize natural lighting, climatize airflow and provide self-supportive water storage and filtration. The building also utilizes solar

ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN Toxic is a brighter take on the greenery trend and is complete with an ultra-shiny finish.

panels for generating power. Bio Sculpture Gel products are 100 per cent vegan, cruelty-free and 5-free made without the use of harmful chemicals like formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, toluene, dibutyl phthalate and camphor. This year, Bio Sculpture Gel has introduced its new and improved

a p r i l .1 7

recyclable packaging, which continues the brand’s

MORGAN TAYLOR

commitment to reducing waste.

The neon green Go for the Glow is sure to have you reaching for your sunglasses this season.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, CHINA GLAZE, CND CANADA, OPI, ESSIE, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, MORGAN TAYLOR,THINKSTOCK

Ongoing Green

SHIMMER.ME BLONDE

Treat your hair as it shines with NEW! SHIMMER.ME BLONDE. Featuring Baobab, Babassu Oil and Bamboo Extracts along with light reflective technology from high-end skin care, this repairing shine treatment is specifically designed to moisturise, restore and refresh lightened, highlighted and blonde shades.

KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU

HAIRLINES NAILS

Walk the Line Tips for mastering the contouring trend and creating the illusion of longer nails.

ontouring was one of the most popular nail looks seen at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) for spring/summer 2017. Editorial manicurist Jin Soon Choi showcased the trend at

the Vera Wang show, using negative space to mimic the appearance of longer nails. While the trend was a hit on the runways, it can also be a great technique to use in the salon for clients who struggle with growing their nails. “Whether your client has wide or short nails or bitten cuticles, contouring can draw attention away and create the Nail art by editorial manicurist Jin Soon Choi

appearance of longer, sleeker, thinner nails,” says Chelsea Baart, global artist and educator for OPI. “Apply polish down the middle of the nail, leaving the sidewalls with negative space or a nude colour.” For a take on the minimalistic looks seen at NYFW, Baart recommends finishing the nails with a matte topcoat. While contouring can help mask clients’ insecurities, proper nail care is essential. “Nail health is the most important part because nails are our canvas,” says Mylan Araujo, education ambassador for CND.

CND Vinylux Black Pool

CND Vinylux Tinted Love

CND RidgeFx

“A lot of clients worry when they don’t have long nails, but as long as they have clean, healthy nails, you can play with negative space. That’s what’s great about negative space nail art: Even if they only have a little bit of nail to play with, you can still make their nails look longer.” To enhance the nail surface, prep with CND RidgeFx to smooth out ridges and conceal imperfections. Just like the looks seen at NYFW, Araujo suggests using darker colours like CND Vinylux Black Pool and Tinted Love with negative space for a more dramatic look. “Back in the day, dark nails were considered too dramatic, but now we’re seeing professionals like doctors and lawyers wearing darker colours,” she says. “Now we’re contouring the nails and elevating the look to the next level.” Since clients may opt for brighter colours this season, Baart says can play with nudes, calm pinks or bright, bold colours like reds and neons,” she suggests. “Or instead of a stripe in the middle of the nail, you can create a monochromatic look. For example, with light pink and dark pink, if you use the lighter colour on the full nail and apply a crescent moon around the edge with the darker colour, that’s another way of creating the illusion of a smaller, longer, sleeker nail bed.” While nail art can be hit or miss with clients, when it comes to contouring, it’s all about gauging their comfort level. “Contouring is an art, so as long as the nails are clean and manicured you can really do anything with it,” says Araujo. “It’s the easiest nail art that pleases clients and lets them leave with an edgy look that’s not too out there.”

a p r i l .1 7

OPI Getting Nadi On My Honeymoon

OPI Two Timing The Zones

OPI Tiramisu For Two

OPI Matte Top Coat

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS: SHANA TRAJANOSKA, CND CANADA, OPI

there are many different ways to achieve the contoured nail look. “You

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HAIRLINES COLOUR

DARE TO GO BARE Nude hair is this season’s must-have look. Get the right shade for your client with these expert tips.

s with contouring and strobing, nude colour is a beauty trend that’s making waves in salons, giving clients more naturallooking results.

“It starts with the low-maintenance hair colour we’ve been seeing

with balayage and ombré,” says Michelle Finlayson, Essential Looks Artist for Schwarzkopf Professional. “Nude hair is a little easier to maintain, so it’s very universal and effortless-looking—a take on undone glamour.”

NOT WARM, NOT COOL Nude hair is all about finding the perfect balance between warm and cool that is most flattering for your client. “Using a nude tone enhances what your client naturally has for a sun-kissed, youthful look,” says Finlayson. “It will bring out some of the natural highs and lows in the hair—just like if they were to spend a summer on vacation at the beach.” Finlayson recommends Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Royal Nude Tones, which include six earthy tones from levels four to 12. “They are combinations of powdery beige tones and subtle rose chocolate tones,” she says. “You can match your client’s natural level or choose one level lighter or darker so that you’re living within that

THE NEW NUDE With celebrities ranging from Taylor Swift and Gigi Hadid to Chrissy Teigen and Mila Kunis embodying the nude trend, more and more

Gigi Hadid sporting her “nude” locks.

clients are going to want to emulate the look. Schwarzkopf Professional has developed two tailored in-salon

example, one of the colours is a pearly brown. Envision that colour going

services: Soft Grading for an illuminating nude look and Pure

on top of highlighted hair with a bit of gold in it. Instead of removing all

Contouring for a layered nude look. “Soft Grading is for multi-tonal

of that gold, this makes it so much easier because it tones the hair so it’s

colour grading, which is very elegant and showcases the colour on

natural-looking.” For nude hair, Quintieri says it’s especially important to

darker hair,” explains Finlayson. “Pure Contouring is more minimalistic.”

know how to tone hair to neutralize unwanted colours.

Colour contouring with nude shades can provide a more customized result that helps accentuate the client’s face shape. “Paint light tones and dark tones where you want to accentuate and regress,” says Antonio Quintieri, top stylist and educator for Wella Professionals. Quintieri recommends Wella Professionals’ Le Beige Collection, which is inspired by the desert and includes six shades from the brand’s Koleston Perfect and Color Touch. “Le Beige really reflects upon tones that are more of that neutral look,” he explains. “For

a p r i l .1 7

As colour trends come and go, Finlayson and Quintieri both agree that nude hair is here to stay. “Having natural-looking, beautiful colour that is simply enhanced based on your client’s natural features is never going to go away,” says Finlayson. “You have a full palette that brings you from spring to fall, so it’s not dependent on the season. It’s very wearable and fashionable.” “It’s all about making your clients look beautiful,” echoes Quintieri. “That never goes out of style.”

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

tone-on-tone family.”

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ELEVATE

I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H S A LO N M AG A Z I N E

THE

GRASS

GREENER KEEP IT

Ingredients derived from the land and sea can make a big difference in skin care products. Here are the ones you should have for your skin care routine. BY ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI-PIZZI

PROTEINS

OILS

Oils restore moisture and keep skin hydrated all day. Ones used in skincare include olive, avocado, grapeseed, evening primrose, jojoba, sunflower, argan, and also essential oils like clove, fennel and ginger, which help promote circulation.

PLANT-DERIVED Plant extracts or essences are often used in place of chemically created ingredients . For instance, licorice root extract brightens while aloe extract soothes and green, black and white teas calm the skin with an anti-inflammatory nature.

Proteins found in skincare products resemble those in your kitchen pantry like oats, quinoa, wheat and soy, which help fortify skin’s protective barrier, making it more resistant to breakage and more responsive to all the good ingredients you give it.

LEAVE IT FRAGRANCE/PARFUM Many people love fragrance but some of us are allergic or find that it exacerbates asthmatic symptoms.

BHA/BHT

PEPTIDES Found in many anti-aging skincare products, peptides are amino acids that help promote collagen production and fill in fine lines and wrinkles.

FRUIT EXTRACTS Embrace the fruity side with vitamin-rich oranges (plus the mood-boosting effects of its citrusy scent), pomegranate for toning and mattifying and papaya to neutralize oily skin.

ANTIOXIDANTS Antioxidants are natural chemicals found in many foods, vitamins and plants, which ward off free radicals that have been linked to some types of cancer. Some common antioxidant-rich ingredients to look for: Green tea, berry extracts, and vitamins B3 (niacinamide), C and E.

FROM THE SEA From algae for its minerals and sun damage repair, sea salt for natural exfoliation and antioxidant-rich seaweed, ocean ingredients, when sustainably harvested, act as a fantastic resource for green (or blue) beauty products.

elevatemagazine.com

(Butylated hydroxyanisole and butylated hydroxytoulene): Environmental Defence describes these hard-to-pronounce ingredients as “synthetic antioxidants used as preservatives in personal care products and cosmetics” that have been linked to several health concerns.

FORMALDEHYDE Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are, as the David Suzuki Organization explains, known as carcinogens. Some of these agents are labelled as diazolidinyl urea, methenamine and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, which slowly release formaldehyde into products.

TRICLOSAN Most commonly found in antibacterial cleaning products like hand soaps and cleansers, triclosan does reduce bacteria on the skin’s surface, but can also affect hormone functions.

PARABENS One of the most widely avoided ingredients (remember “paraben-free” and “no parabens added” are different) in so many beauty products.

Elevate Magazine

@elevatecanada

PSST, HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT… When you’re styling clients’ hair, we all know the conversation can get pretty personal, so the next time your clients complain about their latest beauty issue (maybe sagging jowls or forehead lines), tell them to pick up Elevate Magazine for cosmetic and anti-aging solutions.

@ElevateMagazine

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT, ANTI-AGING AND WELLNESS TIPS AT ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

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EDITOR’S PICKS

1. DITCH THE DRYER Create effortless style with Redken’s No Blow Dry (NBD) Airy Cream, which is designed for fine hair and contains quickdry polymers for control and movement. redken.ca

It’s time to do some spring-cleaning! Revamp your product lineup with our latest must-haves.

2. TAME TEXTURE Shape hair with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.Art Web, a design-sculpting paste that creates flexible definition. lorealprofessionnel.ca 3. LEAVE IT TO LAVENDER Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree Lavender Mint Conditioning Leave-In Spray is lightweight yet durable— conditioning dry hair with a soothing lavender mint scent. paulmitchell.com

5. MIND BLOWN Prevent frizz while blocking out humidity with Label.M’s weightless, non-aerosol Organic Orange Blossom Hairspray. Bonus: The packaging is also recyclable. labelm.com

a p r i l .1 7

6. BLAST OFF Get long-lasting control and lift without the stickiness with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Osis+ Volumizing Gel. schwarzkopf-professional.ca

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTO: PAUL C

4. DOUBLE DUTY Gently cleanse and moisturize hair with KMS Moist Repair Cleansing Conditioner, which contains 18-MEA, a water-repelling liquid that protects hair and reduces breakage. kmshair.com

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Preventive MEASURES Long hours, repetitive movements, and attention to the details: It’s another day behind the chair, but it can really add up and affect your health. We checked in with hairstylists and health professionals to find out what you can do to prevent injuries and stay healthy.

AT THE CORE When it comes to physical activity, flexibility and endurance are essential to keeping your posture in check. Although yoga is a good option, Dinah

By Anna Lee Boschetto

Hampson, a registered physiotherapist at Pivot Sport Medicine and Orthopaedics in Toronto is a big promoter of what people like to do. “Training your

efore you can take care of your clients, you have to take care of yourself—from the way you stand behind the chair to the amount of time you take between clients, to the detail your

core by doing endurance exercises, such as Pilates, and working on flexibility will help you develop the strength you need to do your job,” says Hampson.

eyes focus on as you work. “When I teach, I talk about the way you are standing in relation to what you are doing, and it really is all about the integrity of the craft of hairstyling,” says Diego Raviglione, artistic

BODY POSITIONING

director for Wella Studios in North America.

Putting yourself in the best position to deliver a cut or colour is sometimes not the best ergonomic position. “With Aveda, we researched yoga, Pilates and martial

UNIFIED APPROACH “I’m a firm believer in prevention. I think that shoulder issues can be avoided when you use your arms and

arts and looked at the similarities with how hairstylists stand,” says Tristin Morrison, senior creative director for Aveda Canada, who adds that Aveda has also

move your body as one unit,” says Renee Africa,

named the specific stances, which help hairstylists

education ambsassador for Unite. “By using your

remember their positioning. In addition, practicing

arms, not your wrists and elbows, you can really

stances, such as a lunge position, allows you to lower

increase your longevity in the salon.”

your centre of gravity, placing your eyes on the cutline without bending your back.

POSTURE PERFECT “For hairstylists, sustained and repetitive postures present their own unique issue,” says Dr. Patrick Welsh, a chiropractor at High Point Wellness Centre in Toronto. Welsh also recommends taking a movement break every 60 minutes for injury prevention and improving your

PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK

posture, which also boosts your productivity.

a p r i l .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

REPEAT OFFENDER With back-to-back appointments that require repetitive

7 MOVES TO BETTER HEALTH

motions, such as cutting and colour application, carpal tunnel syndrome is a common injury among hairstylists and one that Welsh often sees in his practice. Defined as a pressure on the median nerve in your wrist, carpal tunnel can cause tingling, numbing and weakness in your hand. “I've seen 21-year-old hairstylists with carpal tunnel syndrome,” says Welsh. “You need to be proactive, and often pain is the last marker.” In addition, using lighter, cordless tools promotes ease of movement.

chiropractor at High Point Wellness Centre and Dinah Hampson, a registered physiotherapist at Pivot Sport Medicine and Orthopaedics.

1 2

Stand close to your work to decrease the demand on your body. Try Pilates, yoga, cross-training or any form of exercise that is focused on strengthening and

conditioning your core muscles, including your lower

STRETCH IT OUT For most, it’s the dominant hand that takes a beating, so stretch your dominant forearm and your neck and to try change your position. “It helps to stretch out and keep your shoulders square,” says Raviglione. “Sometimes we don’t use the mirrors enough and that creates jerking in your neck that takes its toll over time.”

back and abdominals.

Take the stairs. A lot of hair salons are upstairs, so do the stairs twice or take every second stair.

Use what you have in front of you. If it’s less than five flights, take the stairs.

Ideally, you would take a break every 15 minutes. If you have a 30-minute window between clients,

focus a couple of minutes on a few wrist and neck

FEET FIRST In salons, the floor is hard, which makes it important to have high-quality footwear that offers good arch and heel support is key. “The reality is that wearing high heels, or any hard-sole shoe will only contribute to the pain and impose more demand on your posture,” says Welsh. Africa reminds hairstylists that proper weight distribution is key to protecting your back and legs. “You need to stand evenly on both feet. It’s common to switch from one leg to the other. If you stand squarely and face forward, you’ll have more balance in your haircut.”

Try these healthy upgrades recommended by Dr. Patrick Welsh, a

stretches, holding for 15 seconds each.

Take care of yourself. Whether you get a massage to relax the muscular tissue, or a yoga class, find

out what you can reasonably fit into your schedule. For most, it’s two 20-minute sessions per week of doing something good for your health.

Use small windows to do stretches for your neck. In any repetitive seneario, it’s about reversing your

posture. Hold your arms in front of you, but face your palms to your sides.

Take breaks for your eyes. Take a 20-second break to look at something 20 feet away, every

20 minutes.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

a p r i l .1 7

Wellness By Design

TAKE A SEAT According to Leonora Briones, a senior designer for Takara Belmont in Mississauga, Ont., these are some of

Here’s how you can plan and create a healthier salon without having to undergo major renovations.

the key design guidelines to keep in mind when creating a practical and ergonomically sound environment.

By Yasmin Grothé

lose to 75 per cent of stylists suffer from musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs). Repetitive movement is to

blame, of course. But could hardware and furniture also play a role in contributing to these ailments? Among hairstylists and colourists, MSDs

18"

mainly affect hands, fingers, shoulders, necks and backs. In order to help reduce joint stress, salon-industry-specific furniture and game and now offer a range of ergonomically designed products. “As far as keeping ergonomic features in mind, many salon owners are unaware that there's a better solution when they

The backrest should not be higher than 18 inches from the seat to the top of the backrest to help the stylist work comfortably above the client’s head.

32"- 36"

are designing or redesigning their salons,” says Sandra Fiore, director of design and development for Fiore + Greco Design in Vaughan, Ont. “When I explain the options they have, such as side and back wash units, they 20"- 21"

definitely want these features in their salon.” When shopping for your salon, look for adjustable chairs, stools and seats, lightweight hair dryers and brushes with silicone handles for better grip. And if you’re really brave and ready to change your haircutting technique, opt for innovative shears that diminish the risk of carpal tunnel syndrome on wrists. Here’s what you need to know when choosing your implements and designing your salon.

a p r i l .1 7

Fiore suggests taking into account the height of your staff when you're choosing styling chairs to offer a height range that is both hydraulic and lowdraulic, since many chairs only have a very small height range.

A good-quality chair should have a hydraulic base that goes down to at least 20 to 21 inches from floor to seat.

For a styling station, the tool holder should be positioned between 32 and 36 inches from the floor and positioned on the right, with the electrical plug on the same side to facilitate movement. Ideally, you should have a shelf and a minimum of one drawer per styling station to store tools.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BABYLISSPRO, PIVOT POINT

hardware manufacturers have upped their

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

TOP TOOL PICKS Swap out your tools and minimize stress on your wrists and hands with these health-conscious options.

54"

BABYLISSPRO RAPIDO HIGH PERFORMANCE HAIR DRYER For regular styling chairs, count 54 inches minimum.

With an internal construction engineered to significantly reduce dryer weight, as well as a brushless motor designed by Ferrari, this is one of the lightest professional dryers on the market, weighing less than 400 grams. It’s also designed to be super-quiet. BABYLISSPRO CAIMAN FLAT IRON

60"

Ergonomically designed and lightweight for superior comfort, with less stress on the hand due to the thumb rest and unique angled handle, this flat iron is made with nano technology plates to offer a quicker, more effective performance and result in greater stability.

Barbering chairs are wider than the typical salon styling chair, so you’ll need 60 inches from the centre of each one to be able to move comfortably while grooming the client.

Plus, the wet-to-dry feature allows it to be used on damp hair for faster styling, meaning less time with each client.

SINK-SIDE STRATEGY Is it better to wash hair from the side or from the back of the

EXTHAND HAIRDRESSING SHEARS

sink bowl? Many stylists say that it’s more comfortable to wash

the client’s hair from the back rather than at the side because

disorders in the salon, Exthand shears feature an

that position forces you to twist your body and is harder on your

unconventional ringless shape and involve a palm grip rather

back. Along with choosing the type of washing station, Fiore

than fingers. The goal? “They provide excellent control

says that some stations actually have chairs with an adjustable

while ensuring a more natural body position,” says Anthony

height option, making it possible for hairstylists to even sit

Desmars, a Pivot Point manager based in France, where the

down when they are at the sink.

shears were designed. “Independent studies from 2016

The ideal space between the backwash basins is a minimum centreline of 32 inches between the shampoo bowls so that there is enough space for elbow room. As for sidewash basins,

have confirmed that they reduce stress on the body by 50 per cent, from the wrist down to the back.” Pivot Point is such a believer in this new

the minimum centreline between bowls is 42 inches to allow

product that the brand will be offering Exthand

space in washing from the side.

shears in cosmetology schools worldwide, thereby training an entire generation of hairstylists withthis

CHOOSE YOUR FLOORING Choosing the right type of salon flooring is key to keeping

innovative, ergonomic tool.

hairstylists comfortable. “Flooring is a very difficult subject,” says Fiore. “Some comfortable flooring isn’t stain or water resistant, and that’s a problem for salons.” While most salons

DESIGN TO CODE

have ceramic-tiled flooring, Fiore recommends using ceramic

Fiore also reminds salon owners that new building code

at the washing stations, where water resistance is a must, and

regulations are mandating exhaust fans in the colour area to

using laminate, which helps reduce the impact of standing,

ensure better air quality in this area of the salon.

throughout the rest of the salon.

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GREAT EXPECTATIONS

touch base with your clients to make sure they are still happy with what you’ve been doing and to recommend change.” Schwarzkopf Professional’s ASK Education for Hairdressers has developed seminars that focus on consultations and how

When it’s time for a new cut or colour, clients need to be fully aware of the commitment required for achieving and maintaining their desired results. We get some expert tips for helping you maximize your consultations. By Veronica Boodhan

they connect to client loyalty and retail. “The service cycle starts with the consultation,” says Berry. “If you go to the doctor's when you’re sick, your expectation is that he or she will prescribe what is best for you. If you’re the hair expert, the consultation is the only way you can ensure that you’re delivering the best service to your client in every way.” “Consultations should be for every single visit and every client—all the time. Even Mrs. Smith, who’s

s stylists know, the most effective way of ensuring that you and your clients are on the same page is through consultations. Since consultations have come a long way over the years, it’s important to

make sure that you are up to date on the most current methods. We got some sound advice from the pros. “Consultations can help you form better relationships with your clients,” says

been coming to you for 50 years, may be looking for a change. If she is, it’s good customer service to give her the extra time she deserves.” —MARC GALATI, INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM ARTIST FOR JOICO AND CO-OWNER OF HEADLINES SALON & SPA IN STOUFFVILLE, ONT.

Sean Godard, international performing artist for Redken. “Sometimes clients can be open to asking for it, they are still seeking some sort of change.”

Talk it out “What are we doing today?” may be your go-to question for clients the minute they sit down in your chair. But there are many more questions that should be asked to ensure that you are addressing all of your clients' needs. Redken’s Art of Consultation program uses a detailed questionnaire to determine factors such as client history, hair condition, style, daily routine and maintenance. “It’s a tool we put together for stylists that helps create a conversation and helps them understand what questions to ask the client,” explains Godard. Stylists ask their clients to fill out the form either in person or by email before their appointments. Consultations can also be an effective way of getting to know your clientele. “Rapport is huge,” says Marc Galati, international platform artist for Joico and co-owner of Headlines Salon & Spa in Stouffville, Ont. “Clients are coming to you for hair services, but you have to get to know the client and create an

Taking a visual approach to consultations, Wella Professionals has developed the Style Vision by Wella app, an interactive tool available to stylists and clients. The app provides an image gallery from the brand’s collections and social media, allowing you to create your own moodboard. “I’ve seen a lot of stylists using Pinterest boards to gather images,” explains Sherman Wong, education manager for Wella Canada. “The Style Vision app is very similar, but has an element that shows you true colour swatches so it’s no longer just about the swatch book. You can also add your own images, which makes it a lot easier so you don’t have to pull up so many different things on your phone. You can go through it with the client and determine if it’s the hairstyle or colour they like. It makes it easier to distinguish.” Berry says visual aids are critical for ensuring that you and your client understand each other’s vision. “Not being on the

experience for them, and that experience starts with a consultation.”

same page is the biggest mistake we can make,” she says.

Seeing is believing

opinions about using a colour chart because it’s a technical

“That’s where pictures come in handy. People have mixed

Consultations have tremendous value for both new and existing clientele.

tool for the hairstylist, but it really is a visual guide in terms

“The number one reason why clients leave you is because somebody else has

of the tones that the client is talking about and the tones you

changed them,” says Rowena Berry, national business development manager

have in mind.” Berry adds that it’s important to stay on top of

for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. “Consultations provide opportunities to

celebrity hair colour trends because “clients relate to it.”

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PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

find themselves stuck in a rut with their stylists. And even though they may not

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CHEAT

SHEET

Quick tips for mastering your consultations.

Setting limits The two main factors to consider

AVOID GETTING TECHNICAL

always ideal, especially for new clients,” says

before helping clients take the plunge

“Use language that entices emotions,”

Wong. “Stylists should think about billing

are budget and time frame. For that

says Berry. “Instead of saying ‘A 7-0 colour

consultations separately and deducting the

reason, Godard says consultations are

would look amazing on you’, say something

cost from the service. It’s not about making it

your game plan. “At the end of the

like ‘This colour would look beautiful with your

more expensive; it’s about how you treat and

day, if we quoted them one thing and

skin tone because it’s a rich, chocolate brown.’

look at consultations as an integral element of

it ended up costing more or we told

People buy on emotion so it’s important to make

delivering wonderful service.”

them we would be able to achieve

it relatable to the client.”

something but we don’t get anywhere near that result, the client ends up

BE REALISTIC

feeling defeated and frustrated and

“Find out what is achievable in one visit

NO MEANS NO “Booking is a big factor,” says Galati. “A client may ask for colour but show you a

sometimes looks at the stylist as

and give clients a realistic timeline for achieving

picture of an icy blonde and you don’t have

not being educated enough or not

their goals,” recommends Godard. “A lot of times,

time to do it. Make sure your stylists know

understanding how to create it,” says

stylists and clients feel defeated if they don’t get

it’s okay to say ‘no.’ You can’t rush this. Give

Godard. “Under-promise and over-

to that colour right away.”

stylists confidence and let them know if it was

deliver. It’s always easier to say that it might not happen and set them up for that, but if you get there you’ll look like a rockstar.”

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

MAKE TIME “A lot of stylists try to bill consultations into service time, but sometimes that’s not

booked incorrectly. If you promise someone the world in two hours and you fall short, they are going to be disappointed no matter how great you think you did.”

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Hair: Michael Piastrino, Ibiza Hair, Australia Colour: Adrian Rotolo Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Elaine Marshall Photos: Andrew O’Toole

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BAC K TO BAS ICS SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

This Australian Hair Fashion Awards finalist collection draws inspiration from the past for its striking colour looks.

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Hair: Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton, U.K. Makeup: Lucy Flower Styling: Desiree Lederer & Leila Ali Photos: Richard Miles

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Golden Girls Metallic shades add the luxe factor to this British Hairdressing Award-winning collection.

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Session Hairstylist of the Year, Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Makeup: Aya Kudo Styling: Mia Tucker Williams Photos: Damien Carney

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WOR K the look Fashion-forward styling and texture add flair to this Canadian collection.

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TUNNEL TUNNEL VISION VISION Avant-garde styling and texture are combined with a true focus on outstanding detail.

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Hair: Trevor Sorbie Art Team Makeup: Natalia Kiselev & Nuch Sompong Photos: Davide Sometti

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Photos courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional

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BRIGHTEN

The Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks collection for spring/summer 2017 fuses vibrant colour with edgy cuts for bold, trendsetting looks.

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Master Colourist of the Year, Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta. Hair: Tristyn Feist Makeup: Ashly Mckessock Photos: Melanie Watson

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VIVID I MAGI NATION Graphic colours add eccentricity to this Canadian collection.

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Hair: Shogo Ideguchi, Fabric Salon, Japan Makeup: Hannah Davies Styling: Marika Page Photos: John Rawson

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SEEING DOUBLE

GNIEES ELBUOD

This Japanese collection combines sharp cuts and bold styling for an eclectic look and feel.

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year, Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Photos: Alec Watson

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High Rollers Dramatic styling is brought to life in striking black and white images with a rockstar vibe.

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Exquisite Enchantment This Canadian collection elevates modern bridal looks with avant-garde styling.

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Hair: Jason Kearns, Kearns & Co., Toronto Makeup: David Goveia Styling: Catherine Curtis Photos: Arline Malakian

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Canadian Salon Team of the Year, Salon Entrenous, London. Ont. Hair & Styling: Julie Vriesinga Makeup: Florencia Taylor Photos: Paula Tizzard

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Fearlessly Fierce Dramatic texture is combined with sharp cuts and avant-garde styling in this Canadian collection.

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Goldwell’s Color Zoom 2017 collection merges a striking range of iridescent light and dark colours with textured cuts. Hair: Color Zoom Creative Team ‘17 Makeup: Loni Baur Styling: Ingo Nahrwold Photos: Markus Jans

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Fluidity

in Motion

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Canadian Colourist of the Year, Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Makeup: Ashley Lovsin Photos: Doug McMillan

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Fringe Benefits SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Blunt cuts with multi-faceted colours are showcased with a fresh and vibrant aesthetic.

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Canadian Colourist of the Year, Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Hair: Vu Nguyen Makeup: Kate Nicol Styling: Katrina Caparas Photos: Shimon Karmel

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No Holds Barred This Canadian collection showcases bold colour combinations for highimpact results.

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READY. SET. CREATE! #contessa2018

ENTRY DEADLINE August 2, 2017 GALA November 12, 2017 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

NEW CATEGORY INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST

Download your entry form for important rule changes

SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

PRESENTED BY

CONTESSA GALLERY

CONTESSA 28 FINALIST CANADIAN COLOURIST OF THE YEAR

Starting his career at the age of 16, Rodrigo Araneda is the third generation of hairstylists in his family and has become known for his daring colour transformations.

Wella Professionals Color Touch Instamatic, Illumina Color and Koleston Perfect “I mixed together matte pastels from Instamatic with the shiny and translucent colours from Illumina. The light violet base in Illumina controls the warm undertones for an iridescent, metallic satin finish. I also used Koleston Perfect because of the quality and pure-tone colour options.”

s every stylist knows, colour can

COMPETITIVE SPIRIT

make or break your look. For his

As a salon hairstylist and platform artist

Canadian Colourist collection, Rodrigo

for Wella Professionals, Araneda says that

Araneda allowed his creativity to take the

competitions are his creative outlet: “At the

reins, with bold colour combinations that are

salon, I need to adapt myself to the client. When

far from ordinary.

I do hair shows, I need to teach techniques

COLOURING OUTSIDE THE LINES

that hairstylists can apply in the salon. But

For his collection, Araneda used a combination of metallic shades. “I like to work with contrasting colours—very warm and cool tones—and balance them, like in nature,” he says. “When you mix green and yellow, the colours don’t usually fit together, but I did it in a way that looks balanced and soft at the same time.” As for the hairstyling, Araneda incorporated angular lines to create more geometrical shapes. “I like to work with very sleek, shiny hair and very precise lines mixed with texture, curls and volume,” he says.

competitions are about taking a risk, and it’s that diversity that I use to help me create. It pushes

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“The directional applicator gives me volume exactly where I want it.”

Sebastian Professional Trilliant

“It’s a wonderful thermal protector and shine enhancer.”

me forward, translating what I have in my mind and turning it into reality.” Araneda, who was also a Contessa finalist in 2015, says competing has opened doors for him as an artist. “The exposure [from being a finalist] was huge,” he says. “A very important magazine in Russia called me because they saw my work online and they published my work. And I was a finalist, not a winner! I was amazed by how huge the Contessa competition is and how it gives your work visibility around the world. It’s a big opportunity to showcase your work, even if you don’t win.”

Wella Professionals EIMI Root Shoot

Wella Professionals EIMI Glam Mist

“It's my favourite product for photo shoots because it provides a very fine mist of shine.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; HAIR: RODRIGO ARANEDA, ÖLAB COIFFEURS, MONTREAL; MAKEUP: MARIKA D'AUTEUIL, TAMSEN RAE, MARIE-LAURE LARRIEU; STYLING: HELMER; PHOTO: MAXIME THIBODEAU

Rodrigo Araneda

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Benefit of Your Health Three ways to ensure that you have the right health insurance coverage.

Cover Your Business

By Anna Lee Boschetto

For salon owners and hairstylists, commercial general liability insurance helps keep your business in good health. We asked Michael Hill, an underwriting specialist at Northbridge Financial Corporation in Toronto, for a checklist of what you need to know before you commit to a plan.

CONSIDER THE DAMAGE Hill recommends that salon owners pay careful attention to the property in and outside the salon, such as uneven pavement on a walkway, which can impact your insurance costs.

hen you’re in good health, insurance is the last thing you think about. But as anyone who doesn’t have insurance coverage knows, when you are in need of a prescription

or medical services, having a good health care plan can be a real-life money saver. In fact, insurance providers like Manulife recommend a Flexcare package as a practical and affordable health insurance option, especially for anyone with young children who may have additional health care needs. “For salons, health benefits help retain better hairstylists, as highly sought after hairstylists may be less likely to leave if they know they will lose health insurance,” says Mark Johns, vice-president of international and employee benefits at Special Risk Insurance Managers Ltd., a Toronto-based company that coordinates insurance programs for salons and spas. We spoke with the number crunchers and found out that it’s not quite the expense you might have thought, and it could save you big.

PRICE IS RIGHT

RETAIL PRODUCTS With product retailing being a big part of the business, Hill says that underwriters also need to know the type of products to protect hairstylists and the salon if clients experience allergic reactions. KEEP IT CLEAN For salons and barbershops, underwriters need to have assurance that proper sterilization measures are in place, to provide the appropriate coverage. “Knowing the right training is in place for the staff when handling these procedures also provides added assurance for the underwriter,” says Hill.

What Isn’t Covered? “Most professional liability extensions have exclusions to try to keep a handle on the exposures,” says Hill. “Additional coverage is usually required for services that may result in bodily injury or damage, such as hair colour or hair straightening.”

Although insurance plans come at a cost to salon owners, you don’t need to offer an extensive plan to a new hire. In order to help you keep your costs in check, Johns recommends offering a starter health plan for

one plan, consider asking new hires about the type of health coverage

new team members that’s still comprehensive, with medical, dental and

they consider a priority. Dental may be key for some, while others may

prescription drug coverage. Depending on their length of employment

require prescription drug coverage, or both. In addition, check in with

with your salon, you can upgrade your employees’ benefit plan

existing staff on an annual basis to assess if their health insurance

incrementally, which can also help keep the claim rates from getting

needs have changed.

out of control. In addition, Johns suggests co-insurance, where you cover 80 per cent of the cost and the employee covers the remaining 20

INCREASE PRODUCTIVITY

percent, as an additional way to keep insurance costs within budget.

Even with salons with smaller staff, offering health benefits is an added

PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

PLAN FOR FLEXIBILITY

way to show that you’re investing in your staff, and that can go a long way towards increasing productivity. As Johns suggests, offering an

Flexibility is an essential characteristic for hairstylists when dealing

employee benefit program is not only a great recruitment tool but it can

with clients. As a salon owner, you know that every staff member

also help you retain valuable employees. On the flip side, “For stylists,

contributes differently to the team. For hairstylists who work as

having medical expenses covered and including some conditions that

freelancers, companies like Manulife offer portable coverage that travels

are unique to their line of work is a great value,” says Johns. By offering

with you wherever your career takes you. Offering health insurance that

health insurance, you’re really getting reassurance that hairstylists in

is the same for every member of your team not only costs more but

your salon will be better able to offer additional time that’s needed for

also doesn’t help anyone, least of all the employee. Rather than offering

their clients, which translates to added dollars for your business.

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SALON PROFILE

The Artist Returns With the right tools, a colourist can achieve just about anything, just like the legendary godfather of hair colour Leland Hirsch, who revolutionized the beauty industry in the ’80s and is back with his latest innovation.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

“A

s much as Leland loves the beauty industry, he also has a love and passion for art,” says Andrew Bartfield, a hairstylist himself and Leland's business partner. It was his love of art that sent

him on an artistic sabbatical, one that offered a new lens on the beauty industry and made him not want to return unless he believed he could do something better and, as Bartfield explains, “fill a void in the industry.” PHOTOS COURTESY OF CELEB LUXURY

Leland has an established history that has made him an industry legend. In particular, Leland has been watching the evolution of hair colour, which led him down the path of product development. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, when hair colour wasn’t even on the beauty industry’s radar, he was consulting with Redken. Before he began his first product innovation, Leland and his then-business partner Michael Mazzei opened The Color Salon at NuBest & Co. With more than 30 colourists, NuBest & Co. was one of the largest salons worldwide. Then in 1989, Leland and Mazzei launched Artec Systems, a company that developed innovative products, such as the first colour-depositing shampoo with the Artec Colorist Collection. In the same way that Artec revolutionized the way hairstylists thought about colour, with Celeb Luxury, Leland’s current product innovation, the chemist-turned-artist is at it again. And because Leland always has something on the go, we snagged Bartfield, who shared his insights on his friend and business partner.

ARTISTIC INSPIRATION For Leland, Damien Hirst is a huge inspiration through his spin paintings. “Art relates to colour in so many ways, layering and putting tones next to one another and making things very special for that individual. Art has been a big inspiration for both of us,” says Bartfield. “When we lived in New York City we went to Soho and looked at the younger generation. Even on Fort Lauderdale and Miami Beach and downtown Miami, you see different kids.

Fashion is a springboard of inspiration for Leland, who says he is drawn to fashion designer Christian Louboutin’s mixed media shoes designed with combinations of crystals and fabric.

It’s fun to see this evolution that youth drives, even in our own backyard it’s something that exists all around us today.”

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When you look at architecture, it’s dramatically changing the landscape and cityscapes and it's easy to see the influence that happens on the fashion and beauty industry. According to Bartfield, from the reflection of light to the shapes that influence colour and hair, it all plays a critical influence on hairstylists’ creativity. “Leland is watching young emerging artists and the old masters and impressionists,” says Bartfield. “He is very driven by how people look at traditions and make them their own. It has to be translatable to a consumer. You have to think about your creativity and how it translates to the client.”

THE STATE OF SALONS According to Bartfield, the salon business is facing a triple threat: No one is cutting their hair, flat irons and other heat tools are affecting the integrity of the hair and, now more often than ever, clients are colouring their hair. The shades are not only natural hues—ranging from platinum to wild blueberry to all shades under the rainbow, so a colourist’s work is never done. All of these factors led Leland to develop the Celeb Luxury product line, a line that gives clients and colourists a new way of looking at hair colour. The line includes products that offer colourists more freedom in their artistic process. So whether a client wants more face-framing highlights, or a colourist wants to use a different technique, they can do this with this line. “Working with the next generation of colourists and hairstylists, you see things a lot differently,” says Bartfield. Damien Hirst spin paintings are a part of Leland’s extensive art collection. Leland has said that the artist’s use of colour and technique also inspire him.

“You see the use of different techniques that you wouldn’t think of. For Leland, it has always been the next generation of youth that has pushed him to look at colour differently, in a less traditional way.”

WORK AT BEING SOCIAL Technology is as important to Leland, who is from a family of chemists and was learning in the lab in his early teens.

With social media, you have two things. First, you have people who are always very creative and want to be very involved. Then you have people who aren’t creative but are technical. You are able to spark creativity through social media, whether that’s going to be mermaid, unicorn or melting, you are forced to be more creative. “From an excitement level, watching what is going on in social media is fantastic,” says Bartfield. “For the first time you don’t have to watch what’s happening in New York City or Los Angeles, you can actually bring it right to your community. For years, when fun colours came out, they would only be used among certain types of individuals. Now we see the colours going across the world all at once. I think social media has really allowed for an explosion in creativity. Everywhere you look, you are learning something new.”

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PHOTOS: FRÉDÉRIC BEAUCHAMP

SALON INTERIORS

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Scandi Style Scandinavian design is taking the world by storm. And the ripple effect of this eco-friendly influence can be felt everywhere, including indie salons. BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

“T

he focus was on creating a clean, luminous space with cherry plywood, concrete and glass accents,” says

Alexandre Anctil and Yanick Chartrand-Kravitz, partners at Brossés salon in Montreal’s Mile-Ex. “We also wanted to get away from clinical whites, and that’s why we chose soft apricot as our signature colour.”

GIVING BACK Brossés caters to a diverse clientele from the gentrifying neighbourhood. And in line with the cool vibe of the decor, the team has also selected brands known for their socially responsible philosophy and eco-driven products, such as AG Hair from Canada’s West Coast. The company is heavily invested in philanthropic initiatives and, since 2008, has raised more than $1.8 million to facilitate education for girls in Africa through its Women Leading Change foundation. “It was important for us to work with high-performance products that also give back,” says Anctil.

#INSTAWORTHY Light, airy and soothing with its pastel palette, Brossés has garnered a lot of attention since it opened, including becoming a Contessa finalist for Interior Design. Clients love the calm atmosphere and the Details Opened July 2016 by Alexandre Anctil and Yanick Chartrand-Kravitz Design Alexandre Anctil, Yanick Chartrand-Kravitz and architect Robert Lavoie Space 1,132 square feet

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Team 7 stylists/colourists

gorgeous hairstyles so much that they happily let

Brands AG Hair for backbar and retail; multi-brand for colour

to the salon’s gallery-worthy Instagram account.

Website salonbrosses.com

the staff snap photos on their way out, contributing “We installed a ringlight next to a white wall so that our photos capture the subtleties of the hair colour and the skin’s warm glow,” says Chartrand-Kravitz. “It was important for us to create a signature look for our salon.”

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Can’t live without it!

Voting begins March 30

readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca Vote for a chance to win two tickets to the Contessa gala on Sunday, November 12, 2017 in Toronto!

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, except residents of Quebec, who are at time of entry of age of majority in province/ territory of residence. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on March 30, 2017 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 14, 2017 ( “Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 21, 2017 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2018 Contessa Gala. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.

SALON EVENTS

Keune Launches the North American Blend Tour DETAILS Kicking off its 2017 tour with the launch of its

Blend styling line, Keune hosted an incredible night of performance art, music and hairstyling. Inspired by street style and street artists, the event was hosted at Atlantaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Southern Exposure and featured interactive graffiti artists, performance dance and acrobatics. In addition, Keune's artistic team created signature looks live on stage from the likes of George Alderete, Amber Skrzypek, Edward Woody, Cory Wallace, Taylor Sellers, Meghan Harrah and Chris Combs. The artistic team will be taking the Blend Tour across North America this spring, with dates in Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton. WHEN AND WHERE January 21 in Atlanta

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KEUNE

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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SALON EVENTS

SALON SCOOP

Wella Launches Triple Craft with Stephen Moody

DETAILS Industry veterans have seen the shifts

in the salon business, and Wella is addressing these nuances through their education programs, including Triple Craft. For the launch of this advanced education course, Wella’s global education academy dean, Stephen Moody, offered his perspective on how to get clients into the salon more frequently and maximize your

IN MEMORIUM

expertise as a professional hairstylist. Moody

Canadian hairstyling icon Robert

also presented individual looks that were meant

Gage passed away suddenly earlier

to inspire hairstylists to create customized styles

this year. Dubbed “Mr. Glitter”

for their clients. In addition, Sherman Wong,

for his elite clientele, Gage styled

the brand’s new Canadian education manager,

Canada's who’s who including

presented a series of fashion-inspired looks.

actors, directors, philanthropists, doctors and politicians, such

WHEN AND WHERE January 15 in Toronto

as Catherine Nugent, Belinda Stronach and Dalton McGuinty just to name a few. Gage’s clientele became even more exclusive when he decided to close his Toronto salon in 2014 and began accepting private appointments by invite-only. Gage was known for his colourful personality that charmed everyone who crossed his path. In addition to styling for photo shoots and an art exhibit at the Royal Ontario Museum, Gage was known for his eclectic fashion, including bow ties and wire-rimmed glasses, which earned him a spot on numerous Best Dressed lists. He also costarred with celebrity hairstylist Marc Anthony on the reality TV show Superstar Hair Challenge. Along with being an avid blogger, Gage had an eye for art and antiques, a love of dancing and the ability to make friends and clients feel uplifted in his presence. While he will be missed, his work will continue to inspire. PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

2 JOINING FORCES

5 REASONS TO LOVE

ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

Industry powerhouse Vivienne Mackinder has joined Joico as guest artistic director. In her new role, Mackinder will develop and teach the creative techniques from Joico’s education curriculum. As the founder of HairDesignerTV.com, Mackinder’s work has been seen on red carpets and runways worldwide. She has worked for Vidal Sassoon and Trevor Sorbie and is a seventime NAHA winner, including the recipient of the NAHA Lifetime Achievement Award in 2009. Mackinder says she is excited about her new role and the brand’s vision of bringing joy back into hairstyling.

3 NEW LEADERSHIP Bosley Professional Strength has welcomed Alan Stockman as its new company president. Stockman has more than 25 years of industry experience, most recently as vice-president and general manager of Conair Professional. In his new role, Stockman will be overseeing the brand’s organizational transition, which will lead the company’s short- and long-

PHOTOS: ROBERT GAGE, JOICO, BOSLEY PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH, COTY

range business plans.

OOPS: In our March 2017 issue, Marianne Medeiros’s new role at Coty Professional Canada was printed incorrectly.

TAKING THE LEAD AT COTY PROFESSIONAL CANADA Marianne Medeiros has been announced as the country manager for Coty Professional Canada. With more than 20 years of experience in the professional beauty industry, Medeiros most recently held the role of commercial leader with Wella Canada, working with the sales and marketing

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Discover why you should attend our new and exclusive anti-aging & beauty EVENTS! SIMPLER NAVIGATION gets you the latest anti-aging, beauty and plastic surgery news faster! Read Elevate Magazine ANYWHERE with ISSUU. Android users rejoice! Get the FACTS about cosmetic procedures with the improved PROCEDURE DIRECTORY. Locate a doctor for your next treatment in the FIND A DOCTOR section.

division through the merger with Coty.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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SALON BEST 9

Our #Best9 Anniversary Edition

Your fave #saloninteriors shot was of @bixiecolour in Sydney. (You seemed to really like the lights!)

You were just as obsessed with our first cover of 2017 as we were, with hair by Contessa 2017 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Tony Ricci (@hairbytonyricci).

You showed so much love to Krysten-Ashley Garrod’s (@kahairstylist) Partner Colourist entry for Color Zoom 2017.

Your #colourcrush by 2017 British Hairdresser of the Year Angelo Seminara (@seminaraangelo).

All the heart-eyes went to this braided beauty, with colour by Eva Lam (@evalam_) and braid by Jade Ly (@jade_ly).

Your fave #tbt was this Contessa 2016 Ontario Hairstylist of the Year finalist post, with hair by Krysten-Ashley Garrod. (You guys seriously have a crush on her, don’t you?)

You fell hard for this #FF by Rossa Jurenas (@rossajurenas) and Damien Carney (@damiencarneypro).

Your second #saloninteriors crush was on this contemporary design at Viktor Leske International, Berlin (@viktor_leske_berlin).

Flawless finger waves by BHA-winning stylists Joseph I’Anson (@josephianson) and Lisa Graham (@misslisagraham) got all the likes.

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

It’s official! We just turned two on Instagram, and we’re celebrating with more than 25K followers by taking a little walk down memory lane. Here are our top nine posts from the past year.

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