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April 2020
34 F E AT U R E
Health = Wealth
Find out how creating and managing a happy salon environment is not just good for morale, but also for business.
37 F E AT U R E
Clean Sweep
42
T R AC E Y D E V I N E - S M I T H , GL A MOUR H A IR SA LON, U. A .E .
Wondering how the industry is supporting green and clean beauty? Here’s what some of the leading brands are doing with their products and practices.
41 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
“I always say, the most natural looks are the hardest to create. To actually step back, I think that’s a bigger challenge.”
Tracey Devine-Smith; Taz Hair Co; Altin Ismaili; Emma Simmons; Simon Hill and SESH Hairdressing team; Steph Peckmore; Véronique Girard
—KIRSTEN KLONTZ, EDITORIAL HAIRSTYLIST BASED IN TORONTO ON THE COVER: HAIR: SIMON HILL AND SESH HAIRDRESSING TEAM, U.K. MAKEUP: MICHAEL BECMAN AND AUSTRI VIVAS PHOTO: CHRIS BULEZUIK salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 11
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Editor’s Letter
C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Jason Fournier
Learn more about this Calgary-based hairstylist and how he used braiding, texturization and darker vibes to bring his dream Contessa collection to life.
16
Publisher’s Note
18 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
There’s always more to our stories! Don’t forget to visit our website for the latest in industry news, editorial hair collections and so much more.
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57 P RO F I L E
Creating PicturePerfect Hair
46
A LT I N I S M A I L I , M A RC A N T O N I , U.K.
Go behind the scenes of fashion week and the editorial hair world with Toronto-based hairstylist Kirsten Klontz.
W H AT ’ S N E W
Hairlines
Spring into the season with exciting new product launches in haircare, colour, styling and finishing.
60 BUSINESS
Clean Up Your Act
Wondering how to make your salon green or clean? We uncover some of the top myths and misconceptions to help make it a smoother transition.
62 INTER IORS
Style and Comfort
Find out how this Edmontonbased salon found the perfect balance between harmony and luxury through design.
64 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
Events + Scoop
66 # N O F I LT E R
Influencer Spotlight
48
EMM A SIMMONS, SA LON 54, U.K .
12 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Get to know three Canadian hairstylists who have used their branding and networking skills to conquer social media.
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Editor’s Letter —
When it comes to undertaking any type of change, we know that even the smallest step can have a huge impact on the end result. As we explore the idea of “clean beauty” in this issue, we’re happy to see so many brands and salons making changes for a better tomorrow. As the demand for more eco-conscious products continues to grow, we see how this new focus is affecting business. Learn about some of the brands making recent changes—from product development to manufacturing to recycling—in Clean Sweep (pg. 37). Recognizing that clients were growing increasingly interested in eco beauty is one of the reasons why, three years ago, we decided to add the category of Green Brand to our Reader’s Choice Awards. Voting opens on April 1st, so get ready to have your say and vote online for your favourites. With physical health top of mind for so many today, it’s also important to maintain a healthy work environment from a mental health perspective. In Health = Wealth (pg. 34), we break down some of the top challenges facing teams today and offer expert tips for creating a healthy salon culture. Though many of us want to see immediate results, progress (and patience) is key, and is what will help take you and your team to the next level. Stay the course!
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14 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief
PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO
Making a Difference
GO BEYOND GREAT HAIR COLOR Hair color that turns heads. Extraordinary brilliance and shine from incredible new shades in the Topchic @Elumenated portfolio to pure creativity with Elumen and Elumen Play – you can expect more than just ordinary hair color from Goldwell.
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Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 29, ISSUE 3 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca
Publisher’s Note —
ART DIRECTOR (ACTING) Barbara Burrows ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ON LEAVE) Stephanie Gallant ASSISTANT EDITOR Karoun Chahinian karoun@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Joecy Zhang joecy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTOR Liz Bruckner
GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca
Clean Talk
OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca
Laura Dunphy Publisher
16 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
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When I think of “clean beauty,” it brings so many ideas to mind. Rather than being about a trend, it’s more about a lifestyle. From clean food to clean beauty, it’s a recurring theme that’s making news on just about every outlet and platform. There’s no denying that clean is the new machine. Also, with so many salons and brands turning their focus to going green, sustainability is continuing to have its moment. It’s interesting to see this movement’s spillover into clean beauty, and how each sector is creating new subsets that influence the beauty business. For example, we’ve been seeing “undone” hair on Instagram for a couple of years now, but undone colour is the new buzz. Influenced by millennials, the goal is to create colour that doesn’t look like typically coloured hair. Companies are now rethinking their ingredients to meet the demands of today’s market. What’s exciting about this shift in colour is that it’s actually empowering the colourist, as hairstylist Shawna Russell says in “Going Undone” (pg. 32). As the saying goes, less is more! However, achieving a lighter touch can be trickier than you may think. For those looking to explore more of their creative side, it’s time to start thinking about your Contessa photo shoot! The clock is ticking not only for booking your photographer, but also on some exciting news we have to share regarding new categories and rule changes you’re going to love. Stay tuned for our online announcement on April 6th!
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THE BRAND-NEW
MOROCCANOIL ACADEMY OFFERS FRESH, EXCITING EDUCATION FOR HAIRSTYLISTS!
The new Moroccanoil Academy is open! Moroccanoil Academy classes encompass the key pillars of education that Moroccanoil is passionate about, including signature styling and cutting, business programs, and specialized workshops. Designed to challenge, educate, and foster the careers of stylists, salon owners, and managers alike, these robust programs take an outside-the-box approach to emphasize methods for competing effectively in today’s ever-changing landscape.
CLASSES OFFERED AT THE NEW MOROCCANOIL ACADEMY: SIGNATURE CUTTING SERIES:
SIGNATURE STYLING SERIES:
• Foundations • Academy Collection • Cutting Mastery
• Designer Bootcamp • Bridal Business • Moroccanoil Expert Certification
SIGNATURE WORKSHOPS :
SIGNATURE BUSINESS SERIES:
• Backstage Secrets • Behind the Lens
• Get Social: Creating Your Own Voice • Business Certification
For complete class details visit MoroccanoilProfessionals.com Follow us on Instagram @MoroccanoilPro
Taking the Signature Cutting: Academy Collection class with Moroccanoil was the best opportunity ever! I feel like I can now work smarter, not harder with haircuts. These techniques made me get out of my comfort zone and improved my body mechanics! —KRISTI WOOD Stem Hair and Body Salon
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Cutting and Styling How-Tos Learn some tips and tricks to recreate cutting-edge looks from industry experts around the world.
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Colour is the Answer Sometimes, all you need is a little splash of colour. Dive into our collection archive at SalonMagazine. ca for the ultimate hair inspo.
Contessa 2021
Are you as excited as we are for this year’s Contessa Awards?! Find out everything you need to know at SalonMagazine.ca.
18 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
READER’S CHOICE AWARDS
Reader’s Choice Awards It’s that time of the year again! Get ready to vote for Salon’s 9th annual Reader’s Choice Awards! Learn more at SalonMagazine.ca
PHOTOS: HAIR: ROBERT EATON, RUSSELL EATON, U.K., MAKEUP: LUCY FLOWER, WARDROBE: CLARE FRITH, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES, HAIR: INDIRA SCHAUWECKER, TONI&GUY, U.K., MAKEUP: LAN NGUYEN, WARDROBE: VERONIKA GREENHILL, PHOTO: JACK EAMES
salonmagazine.ca
©2020 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 800.829.4422 OR VISIT OPI.COM. MODEL IS WEARING TWO PEARLS IN A POD.
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PHOTO: GOLDWELL CANADA
➣ Hair colour trends are constantly evolving, but the “lived-in” movement is proving to be pretty timeless, especially when these muted yet vibrant hues are paired with interesting lengths and textures. Goldwell explored this in Intrepid, their 2020 couture collection. Showcasing the brand’s new oxygenated colour line, the collection features a bold fusion of unique blends of tones with edgier cuts. From pink-hued coppers, to eye-catching baby blues, to mesmerizing petrols, this futuristic collection highlights the creativity behind colour and placement. To view more photos from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.
Hairlines — NEWS
Complete Care Find out why colour and hair care go hand in hand with Wella Professionals’ ColorMotion+. Thanks to Wella’s ColorMotion+ range, the days of clients having to choose between colour protection and hair health are over. Formulated with Free Radicals Protection Technology, a Hair Surface Polisher and Wellaplex Bonding Agent, this five-piece range is designed to smoothen, repair and protect colourtreated hair, while also providing up to eight weeks of vibrant shine. ColorMotion+ includes a pre-colour scalp protecting lotion, a pre-colour surface enhancing treatment, and a colour protecting shampoo conditioner and mask that strengthen hair structure and provide extra shine.
F I E RC E C O M P E T I T I O N
Let Your Hair Down Discover how L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Serie Expert Pro Longer will help your clients achieve longer, thicker hair with less breakage. For stylists who enjoy having a bigger canvas to work with, there’s nothing like styling long, luscious locks of hair. But it’s a little less fun when working with split ends and breakage. The new Serie Expert Pro Longer range could be the solution you’ve been waiting for! As the first professional series to help renew length, it can reduce split ends by up to 66 per cent, and fill ends by increasing fibre diameter by 38 per cent (on the last seven centimetres of hair) which in turn, promotes longer, thicker hair. The new four-piece line includes a Lengths Renewing Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask—each formulated with highly concentrated amino acids to help strengthen hair. But the hero product is the Ends Filler Concentrate, a once-a-week treatment containing thickening agent (Filloxane) and resurfacant (Polyquaternium PQ6) to deeply penetrate, repair and protect. 22 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Goldwell’s beloved Color Zoom competition is getting a makeover, with new categories to celebrate all forms of creativity. “With the changing face of social media— instant gratification and recognition—hairstylists want to share their own creativity and not copy and paste somebody else’s,” says John Moroney, global creative director for Goldwell. In addition to the technical categories (New Talent Colorist, Creative Colorist and Creative Haircutter), the awards has added four editorial categories: Men’s Hairstylist, Salon Team, Avant Garde Stylist, and Editorial Colorist. The “technical” gold winners from each participating country will advance to compete live at the Kao Salon Global Experience in Amsterdam in October. Each category’s global gold winner will receive an international trophy, worldwide editorial coverage and participate in a future photo shoot with Goldwell. Six “editorial” global gold winners in each category will be announced in Amsterdam and will receive an international trophy, worldwide editorial coverage and a cash prize of €2,500! “Our goal is to make the Global Creative Awards a truly global platform for award and recognition,” says Moroney. Entries for the Global Creative Awards open on May 1 and close on May 31. For more information, visit globalcreativeawards.com
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, BIOLAGE CANADA, DYSON CANADA, GOLDWELL CANADA, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
Learn everything you need to know about Goldwell’s new Global Creative Awards.
Keep it Simple Hairlines — NEWS
Go “coconuts” over this new all-in-one spray from Biolage. Ditching your shelf full of products for one that checks off all the boxes may sound like a dream, but Biolage wants to bring it to life with their new All-In-One Coconut Infusion. This multi-benefit spray’s formula is vegan, free from sulfates and parabens and designed for all hair types and needs. So, whether hair is in need of restoring, protecting or perfecting, this leave-in spray conditions, detangles, prevents breakage, enhances shine, protects color, and more! Simply recommend that your clients use it daily after shampooing, then rinse out within one to two minutes for lightweight conditioning. It can also be left in the hair for intense nourishment.
T O O L B OX
READER’S CHOICE AWARDS
The Choice is Yours!
Dyson Corrale Flexing plates to shape and gather hair for even heat and tension— reducing heat damage by 50 per cent.
Three heat settings (165°F, 185°F, 410°F) and Intelligent Heat Control that monitors temperature 100 times per second.
Get ready to vote for Salon’s 9th annual Reader’s Choice Awards! Beginning on April 1, we want to know what your go-to products, brands or tools are for our 2020 Reader’s Choice Awards—the only professional beauty awards in Canada! Cast your vote in any or all of our 25 categories for a chance to win two tickets to the 32nd annual Contessa Awards, along with hotel accommodations. Don’t miss out! Visit SalonMagazine.ca/RCA for more information.
Features manganese copper alloy plates for strength, flexibility and thermal conduction.
Includes a four-cell lithium-ion battery for up to 30 minutes of cordless styling. It can also be plugged in for longer sessions.
“The flexing plates are the best. They aren’t just floating plates, but they flex so you can apply less tension while styling, with less passes through the hair. It saves so much time.”
— MATTHEW COLLINS, GLOBAL STYLING AMBASSADOR FOR DYSON
salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 23
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Hairlines — NEWS
Seamless Results Take your colour to the next level with Design.ME’s Lisa Walker collection. This new three-piece set is the brand’s first dive into the colour world. Created by Lisa Walker (@lisalovesbalayage), a balayage specialist and influencer, the collection is designed to help hairstylists get flawless results while also simplifying the overall colouring process. The Tease.ME Balayage Teasing Spray is designed to provide the perfect amount of grit to work with finer sections of hair, which Walker recommends using before applying lightener. The Detangle.ME Detangling Spray conditions hair for smoother, more manageable results and the Balance.ME Porosity Equalizer Spray helps neutralize the negative charges on hair surfaces while balancing its pH, making it ideal to apply to dry hair before a glossing or toning service.
➣ S T E P PI N G I T U P
Discover why Davines’ A Single Shampoo is its most sustainable product to-date.
24 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Contessa 2021! Get ready! Our favourite time of year is just around the corner and we can’t wait to share what’s new this year. Mark your calendars with these important dates and details for Contessa 2021! ENTRY DEADLINE TUESDAY, AUGUST 4, 2020 FORMULA CONTAINS A NATURAL FRAGRANCE MADE FROM ESSENTIAL OILS, AND CONTAINS NO SILICONES, COLOURS OR ANIMAL-DERIVED PRODUCTS.
AWARDS GALA SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2020 LOCATION WESTIN HARBOUR CASTLE CONFERENCE CENTRE, TORONTO
Stay tuned for more exciting changes and announcements coming up for this year’s competition (Hint: Maybe even a fun, new category!) Make sure to visit SalonMagazine.ca/ Contessa on April 6th for all the details.
PHOTOS: DESIGN.ME HAIR, DAVINES
Featuring a fully recyclable plastic bottle that’s made from Brazilian sugar cane—a renewable vegetable source (rather than fossil fuels), A Single Shampoo is designed to be completely emptied to avoid product waste. The bottle contains singlematerial components for easier recycling (without the need to separate materials). And if that wasn’t enough, the CO2 emissions generated throughout the product’s life cycle are fully compensated by 100 per cent renewable sources (reforestation projects supported by Davines).
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Discover why ColorProof’s SuperSheer Clean Shampoo and Conditioner is perfect for even your most sensitive colour clients. Your clean beauty-obsessed clients are sure to love this new hypoallergenic cleansing duo, which is designed exclusively for colour-treated hair. The formula is vegan and contains zero fragrances or silicones. What is included is blue lotus flower, which instantly helps provide moisture, elasticity and shine. Plus, there are other naturally derived, antioxidant-rich ingredients that help protect, strengthen and enhance hair follicles for superior results. If that wasn’t enough, the bottles are made from 100 per cent recycled plastic.
Chase the Rainbow
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Hairlines — NEWS
➣
So Clean
Re a d y, S e t , G o !
Coty’s Beauty Envision Awards are back! Do you have what it takes to make it to the top? Coty Professional Beauty has announced the return of their annual Beauty Envision Awards. The North American photo-based competition is designed to celebrate and showcase creativity and technique. Plus, there’s a new category this year: Natural Texture Artist. “The purpose of the Beauty Envision Awards is to celebrate the craft and hero the professionals,” says Carole Protat, senior director of brand education for Coty. “With the addition of the Natural Texture Artist category, we are excited to celebrate all hair types and textures and can’t wait to see the beautiful looks.” Other categories include Color Artist of the Year, Editorial Artist, Men’s Artist and Total Transformation, where artists showcase their skills and take a client from “drab to fab.” The deadline to enter is May 1. Semi-finalists will be announced online on May 24. Winners will receive a $5,000 Visa gift card and products, and the Color Artist of the Year will be invited to attend the International TrendVision Creative Retreat in 2021!
26 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Help bring your clients’ technicoloured dreams to life with this new vegan range of nine vibrant, ammonia-free shades (Yellow, Orange, Red, Maroon, Magenta, Rose, Violet, Blue and Green), along with two shade shifters to give you flexibility with intensity. The Clear shifter softens the intensity to create pastel hues, while the Dark shifter deepens shades to create more muted tones. All the colours are intermixable and last up to 20 washes and fade true-to-tone.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: COLORPROOF, KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS, COTY PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
Change things up with Keune’s new Color Chameleon.
HER E COMES THE BR IDE
Hairlines — NAILS
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
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Artistic Nail Design We’re tickled pink by Peek a Bloom, a soft blush shade.
CND Nothing beats a simple and versatile shade of white, like Lady Lilly from CND’s ever-growing Shellac lineup.
Stay Extra
Spring/summer fashion week was full of creative and over-the-top nail looks that rocked the runway. Here are a few of our favourites! 4 Di Lullo knocked it out of the park again with this complementing nail and makeup moment at Trigère at TFW, embracing the pops of bright blue and purple with modern French nails. 5 What’s more elegant than a simple French manicure? A French manicure with micro pearls, like this breathtaking look by Gina Edwards for Alice and Olivia at NYFW. 6 For Rodarte’s NYFW showcase, Morgan Taylor’s lead artist Eichi Matsunaga glammed up the models with metallic polishes along with crystal detailing to add some whimsy to the nail looks.
Entity This Natural Beauty hue from Polished to Perfection is a perfect springtime pink.
Gelish Barely Buff from the spring collection is an understated tone that’s a natural bride’s dream.
SPOTLIGHT
Dream Team Elevate your mani game with LeChat’s new Perfect Match. Designed to make your life as a nail tech as seamless as possible, LeChat’s latest additions to their Perfect Match line may just be the products you’ve been waiting for. The four-piece set includes Gel Cleanser & Nail Prep Solution (to deeply cleanse hands and nails prior to the nail service), PrimeBond Nail Dehydrator (to dissolve nail oils for proper adhesion of gel polish or other nail enhancements), Liquid Gel Builder (available in clear and pink, and offers hard gel durability with soft gel flexibility with self-levelling and minimal heat spikes), and Soak-Off Remover (easily removes polish without overdrying the skin).
28 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
OPI The new Neo-Pearl range features more than 200 eye-catching shades, including this elegant Pretty in Pearl.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: INSTAGRAM, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, CND, ENTITY, GELISH, OPI, LECHAT
1 We were on cloud nine after seeing nail artist Lauren Michelle Pires’ “French Puff” mani for Yuhan Wang’s show at London Fashion Week (LFW). 2 Who doesn’t love a glitzy nail look? Naomi Yasuda wowed us with her crystal-coated manis for Area’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW) show. 3 Montreal-based artist and CND education ambassador Tamara Di Lullo embraced the animal print trend with her hand-painted snakeskin nails for Hilary MacMillan’s show at Toronto Fashion Week (TFW).
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Hairlines — NAILS TECH
ARE YOU REALLY DOING EVERYTHING YOU CAN TO MAKE SURE YOUR SERVICES ARE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY? HERE ARE SOME TIPS THAT CAN HELP.
4 Ways to Make Your Nail Services More Eco-Friendly 1 Be Environmentally Aware
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: GETTYSTOCK
As with any other type of business, there are sustainable steps that can be implemented to ensure you’re reducing your carbon footprint. According to Erica Nieuwenhuis, president and CEO of Bio Sculpture Canada, it can be easier than you think. “Converting to LED light sources, using programmable thermostats, VOC-free paints, formaldehyde-free furnishings, going paperless to keep client records, and emailing rather than printing receipts [are all great changes to make],” she says. “Ultimately, salons are businesses and we should all be taking the same steps to protect the environment.”
2 Product Knowledge It can be difficult to be 100 per cent eco-friendly, especially when you want to ensure a safe yet high-performance result. However, Zarina Ahamed, owner of Joyride, a wellnessinspired nail salon and spa in Vancouver, says it’s about creating a balance. “We offer non-toxic, cruelty-free and vegan options, but we also offer several different brands of polish, including OPI. We’re also shifting towards Canadian brands, such as Loveon, which is from Alberta, and is a 13-free [non-toxic] gel polish.” A leader in creating products that keep the environment top of mind, Bio Sculpture also offers a range of eco-friendly WATERLESS PEDICURES? For most salons, the days of soaking hands in bowls of water before a manicure are long gone. Then why are so many still soaking feet before a pedicure? Enter: Waterless (aka. dry) pedicures, an emerging trend that uses warm, wet towels to hydrate the feet. “When nails are soaked in water, they absorb it and even change shape,” says Nieuwenhuis. “If products are applied before the nail is entirely dry, and before it has returned to its natural shape, they are prone to chipping, flaking or peeling off.”
DID YOU KNOW?
Offering some nontoxic options can also help open up your salon to a range of clientele, such as children or expectant mothers, who may be in search of greener alternatives.
polishes. “Our Ethos and Gemini ranges contain some natural ingredients, such as essential oils, plant extracts, and nut oils, which are beneficial to the health of the nail and surrounding skin,” says Nieuwenhuis. “The BioGel and Evo ranges are solvent-free, low-odour and do not require harsh acidic primers and bonders to adhere to the natural nail.”
3 Rethink Your Options You may be so accustomed to your service routine that you may not realize there are more environmentally friendly alternatives available. “Salons can invest in quality stainless steel implements that will replace disposables and reduce their environmental impact,” adds Nieuwenhuis. At Joyride, Ahamed and her team use finger clips instead of foils to hold cotton balls in place when removing soak-off gel polish, which in turn, reduces waste. 4 Start a Recycling Program
Did you know that nail polish bottles are considered to be hazardous waste? “We have a program that encourages people—whether or not they are a client—to bring in their old polish bottles so we can dispose of them properly,” says Ahamed. Though opting for reusable tools in the salon may produce less waste, you can also encourage clients to reuse and recycle beyond the salon. “Disposable nail files are one-time use items, but could be gifted to the client for use at home, thereby extending its life beyond the salon,” suggests Nieuwenhuis. “Reducing the volume of consumables in the salon might be another option. For example, choose to use mini-files instead of full-size files, or invest in higher quality gel [brushes and tools] that will last 10 years rather than purchasing new, cheaper ones every few months.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 29
Hairlines — MEN
➣ WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW WHEN WORKING WITH YOUR MALE CLIENTELE’S NATURAL TEXTURE.
Confident Curls Study Up Education is absolutely key when working with curly hair, says Donna Beyak, co-owner of Edmonton-based The Men’s Room, and an international all-star educator for American Crew. In order to properly consult your client, you’ll have to know how to work with curly hair—inside and out. “The issue of clients being apprehensive about embracing their natural curls is often a result of them not coming across the right expert yet,” she says. “Sometimes stylists and barbers aren’t trained enough and only know what they know. You have to be able to analyze your client’s hair needs, growth pattern and curl type, and that’s when you can actually help them get their desired look and shape.” Let Them Be Since curls are delicate, it’s best to not overwork them with tools and products, says Mathieu Mainville, a Contessawinning freelance hairstylist based in Montreal. In doing so, this can cause excess frizz and make the ringlets stray from their natural shape. “When the hair is wet, we put the product in, work it with our fingers or 30 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
PRO TIP BEYAK RECOMMENDS DEMONSTRATING THE PRODUCT APPLICATION AND GIVING CLIENTS AN OPPORTUNITY TO APPLY IT THEMSELVES TO ENSURE THEY’RE COMFORTABLE STYLING THEIR HAIR ON THEIR OWN.
a large-toothed comb, and then don’t touch it anymore. This way, you get nice volume, minus the frizz,” he explains. “Don’t manipulate the hair more than necessary. You have to know when to stop playing with it.” Embrace the Razor According to Beyak, using a razor when cutting curly hair is one of the best ways to avoid over-texturizing. “Most guys want their hair to fall naturally, so when you use a razor, you’re able to target which direction you want the hair to fall and you can actually enhance the curls,” she says. “You have so much more control that way.” For example, if one of your curly clients wants the “hockey hair” look, Beyak recommends using a razor upward to get that classic flip around the ears and down the neck. Know Your Products When it comes to curly hair, frizz is its worst enemy, but can be avoided by using the right product for your client’s curl type and pattern. “You have to know your products inside and out,” says Beyak. “You have to understand
exactly what each one does, what it’s formulated with, how it moulds and works with every hair type. The right product is the ‘make or break’ factor of their desired look.” To avoid crunchy or overly slick curls, Beyak recommends American Crew’s Light Hold Texture Lotion, Matte Styling Cream, Liquid Wax and, for some extra texture, Boost Powder. Mainville likes to keep hair lighter with a light pomade or curl cream, such as L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.Art Bouncy & Tender. Diffuse the Situation As you’ve likely heard (or seen), curly hair never dries the same way twice. However, the best way to have a bit of control over the drying process is to use a diffuser. Though this may seem like an obvious choice, many stylists often turn to a regular blow-dry because it seems faster, but it may compromise the finished look. “Air-drying may be easier, but it can be unpredictable,” says Mainville. “When working with a blow-dryer you absolutely need a diffuser for more control. If not, you’ll be creating so much extra frizz.”
TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: DANA HODGES-CASCHETTA, AMMON CARVER STUDIO, NEW YORK, MAKEUP: DENEY ADAM, PHOTO: RICHARD MONSIEURS
From Harry Styles to Bradley Cooper to Kit Harington, men are becoming more and more eager to embrace their natural curls and texture. So what better time for stylists to hop on board with the trend! We asked curly hair experts for their top tips and tricks that will help you create the best textured looks.
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Hairlines — COLOUR
Going Undone ➣ With more clients in search of the ultimate in natural-looking hair colour, find out how this “trend” is one that you’ll actually want to stick around.
Keeping it Real Unlike many social media-driven trends, it’s unlikely that a client will walk into the salon with screenshots of this exact look. And if she does, it’s probably not for the reasons she may think. Shawna Russell, manager at Filomena Salon and Spa in Coquitlam, B.C., says it’s about the hairstylist taking the lead and explaining the benefits of this type of colour. “It’s up to me to direct the appointment and explain that this is the direction that people are going with their colour and fashion,” she says. “Hairstylists are taking the power back from client; leading the focus of the appointment, explaining the trend, and helping clients feel on trend. This helps build loyalty because you help keep them current.” PRO TIP RUSSELL RECOMMENDS SHOWING CLIENTS PHOTOS OF HOW THE COLOUR WILL LOOK, AS WELL AS WHAT MAINTENANCE WILL LOOK LIKE, TO MAKE SURE YOU’RE BOTH ON THE SAME PAGE.
It’s important to strike that perfect balance between delivering high-performance results with suggesting a product that you (and your client) are both confident and comfortable with. Russell, who is also a balayage and blonde expert, and an ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional, 32 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Schwarzkopf Professional TBH— True Beautiful Honest in Natural
recommends the brand’s TBH (True Beautiful Honest), a range of 26 permanent shades with 50 per cent less ammonia, that’s designed for creating “authentic-looking colour.” “I’ve been using TBH a lot for grey coverage, which is great because you get 100 per cent coverage [with the natural shades] and you still see highs and lows in the hair. There’s a softer grow-out,” she explains. “Plus, it’s great for the lighten-and-tone market because of all the primary and secondary tones. The colour contains grapeseed oil, which gives you so much shine, and clients want that youthful, healthy, shiny look, even if they have to cover grey. They still want a natural look.” For some clients, their choice may be even more personal due to past experiences. Case in point: If a client suffers from allergies or sensitivities to certain types of hair colour. Baker suggests using Wella’s Koleston Perfect, a permanent colour range with ME+ technology that’s free of PPD, making it “up to 60 per cent less likely for someone to
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CANADA, HAIR: KERRIE DIMATTIA, DIMATTIA & CO, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: CANDICE BATTERSBY, WARDROBE: DIMATTIA & CO TEAM, PHOTO: PIXIE BELLA,
Let’s face it: Low-maintenance colour is not exactly groundbreaking. Since the rise of balayage, foilayage—and everything in between—the natural look is something we’ve definitely been seeing more and more of. However, this shift towards more natural-looking results has also been fused with the increasing demand for gentler hair colour alternatives. “We’re definitely seeing younger generations try to be more conscious of the environment and what they are putting on and in their bodies,” says Emily Baker, a field signature artist for Wella Professionals. “It’s more than just hair colour.”
Cleaner Colour With the shift towards using more ingredient-conscious products, considering what to keep out of hair is also important. Since protecting colour results is always top of mind for hairstylists and clients, did you know that pollutants—metals, lime (from hard water), air particles and sunlight—can cause structural damage that affects hair’s appearance and health? Revlon Professional’s new Magn+t range features a Pollupl+x system that contains chelating agents, keratin reinforcers, antioxidants and shield ingredients that help protect hair by removing 90 per cent of pollutants, making it easier for colourists to get a more predictable colour result and hair that’s three-times stronger. Plus, it can be used with any brand of hair colour or lightener! “When there are pollutants in the hair and there’s a chemical reaction, it starts to break off metal particles caused by free radicals, which are what’s breaking down hair and hair colour,” says Kirsten McIntosh, global artist and educator for Revlon Professional. “We’re even finding some salons with hard water, and it’s the lime in the water that’s causing colour issues. This is one of the main reasons when stylists don’t understand why they can’t get grey coverage, or blonde colour that’s orangey or brassy two weeks later.” How it Works Magn+t Anti-Pollution Neutralizer is an additive for hair colour or lightener that removes 90 per cent of metals and protects against free radicals. Magn+t Color Lock Repairing Shampoo reduces the build-up and deposit of metals, neutralizes hard water and helps repair hair’s inner structure. Magn+t Anti-Pollution Daily Shield provides lightweight protection against environmental stressors, frizz and odour.
HAIR: IDY DUONG, SLOANS OF LANE COVER, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: CHEREINE WADDELL, WARDROBE: LYDIA-JANE SAUNDERS, PHOTO: JARRED STEDMAN, REVLON PROFESSIONAL CANADA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
The range also includes an Anti-Pollution Micellar Cleanser, Restoring Mask and Daily Shield for at-home use.
develop a new allergy to hair colour.” “I’ve had a few clients with sensitivities, and they’ve noticed a huge difference,” says Baker. “With more people developing sensitivities from the environment, the trend [of people looking for gentler alternatives] is huge. It’s not just a hair trend—it’s a lifestyle.” Getting the Look While at first glance lower-maintenance looks may seem easy to create, that’s not always the case. “It appears more natural, but it can actually be more complicated for some colourists to do,” says Baker. She recommends combining techniques, such as a balayage, foilayage and foils, at the root. “It’s almost like three different techniques on one head,” she says, adding that it’s a great way to increase service dollars since it’s a longer, extended service. In other words, if the client is coming back to the salon less frequently, it can be a great way to maximize your service dollars while they’re in your chair.
“Booking is different than what it used to be. You’re scheduling them for more time, adding on services like a toning service or root shadow,” she explains. “They’re coming in less, but it doesn’t mean they’re spending less. Now they are coming in for toning or glossing services, so you’re not losing the client or money.” PRO TIP: BAKER SUGGESTS USING TWO DIFFERENT TONERS—ONE AT THE ROOTS AND ONE AT THE ENDS— AND BLENDING THEM.
Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect in Pure Naturals
“The busier people get in life, the more lowmaintenance they want their hair to be,” says Russell. “People don’t want to be coming in every four weeks for touch-ups, so they want colour that can go a little longer, like balayage, ombres and root shadow looks. With a softer, less harsh growout, their natural beauty is better able to come through.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 33
HEALTH = WEALTH
Cultivating a healthy and happy salon environment is all about balance and communication. We spoke with experts for tips on how you can achieve it in your own space. BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN
Wellness may seem like just another modern buzzword, but it’s actually an integral tool for running a successful salon. While we know it’s not always easy to manage a team of hairstylists, colourists and other staff—all with individual needs, skills, goals and, of course, personalities, fostering a healthy salon 34 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
environment can help keep everyone happy and on the path to success. For salon owners, this means less dissatisfied employees, and as a result, lower turnover rates and fewer walkouts. Instead, you’ll be left with more time for servicing clients and a motivated team that will produce even better results.
Problem: Team Bullying Think bullying is just a playground issue? Think again! Unfortunately, it’s still relevant in the workplace— especially in salons. With more than 20 years of experience in leadership, teamwork and communication, Peter Mahoney, president of Summit Salon Business
Center and Salon Consultants Inc., says many managers often think it’s best not to fuel staff conflicts with attention, but it may be doing more harm than good. “Be proactive, not reactive,” he recommends. “True leadership is about having conversations that no one really wants to have. But if you quickly clean up the little messes, you’ll never have to clean up big ones.” With that said, it’s also important not to cross the line into micromanaging. “It’s important to give your team the resources they need so they can learn to be leaders and defuse the situation,” says Siobhan Griffiths, manager at Toronto-based Evolve Hair Studio, which is well-known for their positive core values of leadership, balance, respect and sustainability.
team morale. However, Griffiths says the best long-term solution is to instill the values of respect and empathy amongst your team. These values will lead to positive communication with the client—even if they are being difficult— without escalating the situation or ruining anyone’s day. “Sometimes stylists can get too defensive and butt heads. That’s when you end up with an awful Google review, and with a client who is never going to come back and will tell everyone she knows how awful her experience was,” she says. “You can turn that around by how you react to the situation. We need to really dig deep, be a bit more empathetic and listen to what their needs are, and then come together to find a solution.”
Problem: Difficult Clients Dealing with clients that may exhibit rude or problematic behaviour towards your staff can really put a damper on
Problem: Overworked Staff Every salon goes through busy seasons that can often leave stylists stressed and exhausted—both physically and
LET’S GET PHYSICAL Let’s face it: We all know (or have felt) the physical strain of standing and styling for hours. These aches and pains should be taken seriously because, over time, they can have detrimental effects on a stylist. With this issue in mind, Sexy Hair has implemented Tai Chiinspired techniques into their training to help decrease fatigue and soreness. “We are losing way too many stylists due to back pain,” says Stephanie Polansky, director of education and shows for Sexy Hair. “The movements of Tai Chi are all about teaching you how to move with more fluidity to put less stress on your body.” For example, stylists tend to cut with their shoulders up, which puts a lot of strain on their necks. Sexy Hair’s technique trains stylists to relax their shoulders by not lifting their arms. They also teach a technique called “Back-Hand Cutting,” which helps stylists cut hair without flopping their wrist back and forth—a common issue that can lead to carpal tunnel syndrome.
Evolve Hair Studio’s co-owners, Jody Kezar and Sonia Yarkhani, are also the co-founders of The Elevated Stylist, a retreat that launched in 2019 and focuses on mindfulness, burnout and education for hairstylists.
mentally. To avoid burnouts, Griffiths established a 40-hour work-week cap, and steps in whenever she can to help with time-consuming tasks, such as sweeping or washing colour bowls. Mahoney also established an hourtrading system, which allows stylists the option to work extra hours during busy seasons in exchange for time off.
Problem: Low Morale One of the best ways to boost morale in your salon is to foster a healthy working relationship with your team. “People want to work for people who care—there has to be a connection,” says Mahoney. “It’s not about me; it’s about their goal, their journey and how I can help them to get there. If you want to build a strong culture, it starts with a leader that has a vision and can clearly communicate it.” On a day-to-day basis, try teambuilding activities that can help your staff bond. Canadian professional beauty consultant Kim Tanner, who has worked in the industry for more than 30 years and has consulted with leading hair and nail brands, such as Amika and Gelish, recommends organizing team challenges or events. “It helps for your team to like each other to work well together and extracurricular activities are a fun way to achieve that,” she says. “The problem with cliques is that one or two stylists may really like each other and get along, but that automatically excludes everyone else.” Tanner adds that “finding an activity that brings the whole team together will foster a more inclusive environment, which helps everyone.” If you’re in need of some ideas, consider starting a team book club, planning a wine and paint night, or organize a team trip to hair shows or awards (eg. the Contessas!) to get creative ideas flowing. “Not everyone is going to get along all the time, but when stylists see the owner instilling these values into their workplace, that will automatically make it a friendlier and warmer environment,” says Tanner. Lastly, to ensure your team comes to work with the proper mindset, it’s important to give them the tools and support they need to succeed. According to Griffiths, team meetings that focus on styling and business, along with wellness topics can help create balance in the workplace. “You have to be working smarter, not harder,” she says. “It’s all about figuring out how you can be the best version of yourself, which can’t be done without setting personal boundaries and healthy habits.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 35
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NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, who are of age of majority in province/territory of residence at time of entry. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 1, 2020 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 15, 2020 (“Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 22, 2020 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2021 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room at the Westin Harbour Castle, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.
PHOTO: KUZMICHSTUDIO GETTY IMAGES
Clean Sweep
As we all strive to make changes that support a greener world, find out how your favourite brands are taking steps towards a cleaner and more sustainable future. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 37
Ocean Drive To help fight the ongoing issue of ocean pollution, Kevin.Murphy has reinvented its signature square packaging, which as of this year, will be made with 100 per cent recycled ocean plastics. This new initiative will help save the planet from approximately 360 tonnes of new plastic. Taking their sustainability mission one step further, for every can of aerosol sold, the company has committed to making a financial contribution to help reduce carbon emissions. They’ve also partnered with Ecoheads and Climate Reality Project, a global non-profit organization dedicated to promoting climate change awareness.
Rooted in Recycling Celebrating their 40th anniversary this year, John Paul Mitchell Systems is reflecting on its sustainability initiatives. Case in point: The company’s awapuhi farm, which was founded by Paul Mitchell in Hawaii in the early 1980s. This organic farm is self-sustaining and solar-powered, and uses rainwater as its main water source to reduce its carbon footprint. Looking ahead, the company has partnered with Reforest’Action on a mission to plant one million trees by the end of 2022. Though John Paul Mitchell Systems already uses recyclable and post-consumer material for their packaging, they will be updating their Tea Tree packaging this year to be comprised of post-consumer recycled plastic. 38 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Made in Canada Leading the way with their sustainability efforts, many of L’Oréal Professionnel’s products are made in Canada—Montreal, to be specific. “Our manufacturing plant is one of the most progressive, and really is the vehicle of this message of sustainability,” says Nadia Petrolito, vice-president, general counsel, chief communications officer & ethics correspondent for L’Oréal Canada. “We’re always looking at how we are creating our products and what are we putting in them—looking at every single ingredient and how much water we’re using; trying to reduce as much as we can.” In addition to featuring solar panelling, the plant includes a unique water filtration system. Rather than grey water being disposed of into the ground, it’s filtered and pumped back into the plant so it can be re-used, saving enough water to fill the equivalent of 14 Olympic-sized swimming pools. Currently, all of L’Oréal’s colour tubes are recyclable, but for their recent relaunch of Majirel, the company introduced new packaging that includes a cap made of 100 per cent recycled plastic. This change prevents seven tonnes of plastic production per year. With continued efforts that extend beyond manufacturing, L’Oréal has been carbon-neutral since 2018, thanks to a partnership with Énergir, a natural gas company based in Quebec.
Nurturing Nature With a mission to produce, innovate and develop sustainable and professional products, Biolage has been nature-driven since it was founded in 1990. Since then, their Biolage R.A.W. range has taken it one step further with biodegradable formulas that contain ingredients of natural origin, meaning they’re either unchanged from their natural state or they preserve more than 50 per cent of the plant or mineral source’s original structure. Containing no sulfates, silicones, parabens or artificial colourants, all Biolage R.A.W. bottles are also made with post-consumer recycled plastic. This year, Biolage is celebrating its 30th anniversary—marking a key milestone in its history as a pioneering green brand.
Pure at Heart As one of the first 100 per cent vegan and sulfate-free professional brands, Pureology has been paving the way for sustainable and innovative haircare. Ahead of their 20th anniversary next year, the brand will be rolling out their first formula
MATRIX’S COLOUR TUBES ARE ALSO MADE IN CANADA, WITH CAPS COMPRISED OF 100 PER CENT POST-CONSUMER RECYCLED MATERIALS. ALSO, ALL LABELS AND CARTONS ARE LOCALLY SOURCED.
More to Love Additional brands that are doing their part for the environment. ABBA Founded in the late ’80s, ABBA is one of the first natural and vegan professional haircare brands. Their products contain a unique ProQuinoa Complex of quinoa, barley and soy. They are also free of sulfates, gluten and parabens, and are never tested on animals.
Fanola Made in Italy but known globally, thanks to a social media following, Fanola’s beloved No Yellow and No Orange ranges are available in vegan formulas, and are free of sulfates, silcones or parabens.
Hotheads Hotheads is part of Project Zero, an environmental initiative founded by its parent company, International Designs Corporation, which offsets their carbon footprint by planting trees in areas in need.
Lakmé Last year, Lakmé launched Teknia, a sustainable and vegan haircare range with up to 99 per cent natural ingredients. Olivia Garden Olivia Garden has three eco-friendly hairbrush ranges: Healthy Hair, EcoCeramic and EcoHair.
PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK
Wind Power Did you know that Joico and Zotos Professional Brands are manufactured in a near-zero waste facility that’s partially powered by wind? As for their packaging, Joico’s LumiShine, Vero K-PAK Color, and Blonde Life tubes are all packaged in paperboard cartons made from 100 per cent recycled fibre. The brand’s shampoo (and several spray) bottles are crafted with up to 25 per cent postconsumer recycled materials. With continued sustainable efforts, Joico is aiming to reduce its operations’ carbon footprint by 75 per cent by 2030.
Looking for more options? Visit SalonMagazine.ca to learn how to identify whether a product or ingredient is green or clean.
renovation this summer. Now their products will also be free of silicones, parabens and mineral oil— in what Pureology calls the “No Nasties” movement. “These days, sustainability can come with a compromise—compromising on performance if you want something more natural,” says Michelle Tasios, national education manager for Pureology. “With Pureology, we’re not natural—and we don’t claim to be—but what we are is that perfect marriage of science and sustainability, giving people the best of both worlds.” The brand’s packaging will also be getting a facelift with a new minimalistic redesign. Though its packaging is currently made from 50 per cent post-consumer recyclable materials, the revamped packaging will be made with 95 per cent post-recycled materials, and will be 100 per cent recyclable. FOR EARTH MONTH, ALL OF PUREOLOGY’S CURRENT AND NEW SALONS WILL RECEIVE A GIFT OF 10 TREES PLANTED ACROSS CANADA.
Proud Partnership Joining forces with Green Circle Salons, Amika has set a goal to include its salons in the sustainability movement this year. Part of this goal: Streamlining the collecting and recycling of everything used in a salon, from products to hair clippings. As a brand, Amika is committed to sourcing more sustainable materials for new, innovative packaging. They are also partnering with TerraCycle, an organization that helps “recycle the unrecyclable,” to ensure Amika’s packaging is 100 per cent recyclable. Via TerraCycle’s website, Amika will offer a prepaid shipping label that will allow customers to ship empty bottles and cans to TerraCycle. The company will then store, recycle or repurpose the waste. The partnership will begin in the U.S. later this year, with plans to launch in Canada in the near future.
Sustainable at Its Source Originating from Parma, Italy, Davines has been recognized for their environmental efforts—pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with naturally derived ingredients, clean energy manufacturing and carbon-neutral packaging. The brand has recently launched Beauty from the Ground Up, a campaign to help raise awareness and funds for Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) in the U.S. and Canada—a cause that’s close to the hearts of Davines’ founders, the Bollati family.
Packaged with Care Sustainability has been top of mind for Moroccanoil since the company was founded in 2008. For example, its factory in Israel has solar panels to produce solar power and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. “Sustainability was important to us even before it was popular. We’ve always been aware of the impact the industry can have [on the environment],” says Carmen Tal, co-founder of Moroccanoil. And since then, the company has taken their environmental efforts to the next level—hiring a full-time sustainability manager last year. Tal
says the addition of this role was important in order to advise their team on best sustainability practices. “For any company that is serious about sustainability, it’s a long-term project.” In addition to making changes within the company, they’ve also partnered with Loop Industries to modify currently unrecyclable plastics. As of now, Moroccanoil Treatment bottles are comprised of 35 per cent recycled glass and the brand’s Color Depositing Masks are made with 50 per cent post-consumer recycled plastic. “Packaging is the first step,” says Tal. “We’ve already taken care of shipping— removing secondary packaging when it’s not necessary—therefore reducing our carbon footprint. We also want to continue finding better packaging options that are post-recyclable plastic, glass, etc.”
Mothering Earth As a trailblazer in sustainability initiatives, Aveda is one of the first hair and beauty companies to use postconsumer recycled materials for their packaging. Additionally, all of their products are manufactured with 100 per cent wind power (through renewable energy credits and carbon offsets). For more than 13 years, Aveda Canada has also partnered with WaterAid for Earth Month, raising money and awareness for global water-related issues.
Going Global With a focus on sourcing sustainable ingredients and reducing water consumption, Kao (the parent company of Goldwell, KMS and Oribe) has been recognized with several awards and distinctions, which include being named to the Dow Jones Sustainability World Index for six consecutive years, and being selected for inclusion in the “A List” for climate change and water security by CDP, a non-profit organization and global disclosure system for environmental impact. Last year, Kao hired a new director of sustainability and portfolio for the purpose of sharing and promoting its sustainability plans to salons, stylists and clients around the world. salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 39
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An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 41
Collections — VOLUME UP
Texture, volume and movement are combined in this playfully powerful Contessa finalist collection.
42 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
2020 CONTESSA AWARDS FINALIST, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Tracey Devine-Smith, Glamour Hair Salon, U.A.E. MAKEUP Maddie Austin PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 43
Collections — RAINBOW GLOW
This Canadian collection is the perfect unity of vibrant hues and airy textures.
2020 CONTESSA AWARDS FINALIST, SALON TEAM Taz Hair Co., Toronto MAKEUP Paola Manigat, Marlene Gerschon WARDROBE Melissa Stetski and Klaudia Capalbo PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon
44 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 45
Collections — SHINE ON
Colour, cut and shine are all living in harmony in this creative British collection.
HAIR Altin Ismaili, Marc Antoni, U.K. MAKEUP Katie Moore WARDROBE Bruno Marc PHOTOS Jamie Blanchard
46 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 47
Collections — PURA
This creative collection pushes artistic boundaries with its use of sharp, icy tones fused with translucent pastels.
48 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
HAIR Emma Simmons, Salon 54, U.K. MAKEUP Roseanna Welin WARDROBE Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Tony Le-Britton salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 49
Collections — BEAUTIFUL SEDUCTION
Less really is more in this British collection, featuring soft textured styles that are simply beautiful.
50 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
HAIR Simon Hill and SESH Hairdressing team, U.K. MAKEUP Michael Becman and Austri Vivas PHOTOS Chris Bulezuik salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 51
Collections — COLOUR CODE
This striking and colourful collection combines pale pastels with soft texture and movement.
52 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
HAIR Steph Peckmore, Bad Apple Hair Group, U.K. MAKEUP Meg Lindow and Ruby Landles WARDROBE James Earnshaw, Tarin Sawyer Scott and Danyl Knox PHOTOS Tom Goddard salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 53
Collections — NATURAL GLOW
With vibrant pops of colour and shine, this Canadian collection is a breath of fresh air.
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2020 CONTESSA AWARDS FINALIST, MAKEUP ARTIST Véronique Girard, Véronique Girard – Artiste Maquilleur, Jonquière, Que. HAIR Emmanuelle Gagnon-Vachon PHOTOS Marilyn Bouchard
Jason Fournier When he was 20 years old, Jason Fournier was at a career crossroads— unsure whether to pursue hairstyling or become a tattoo artist. Though he admittedly didn’t have an undeniable knack for either, he knew he wanted to do something creative. He eventually opted to enrol in Marvel Beauty School. Not only was it a place where he fuelled his passion for hairstyling, but it’s also where he met his wife and business partner, Jodi. Nearly 30 years have passed since he made that decision, and he hasn’t looked back. Though the Calgary-based stylist is also now the owner of his own salon, J.Fournier Hair Design, he still makes it a goal to keep pushing himself creatively. For example, in his Contessa collection for Alberta Hairstylist, which showcased his talents in braiding and texture. “As an artist, I’ve always tried to get away from the norm and do things differently,” he says. “This look is the evolution of what I’ve been seeing in the last little while in braiding and more intricate styling.”
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Set a Focal Point When thinking of ideas for a creative photo shoot, Fournier says he starts with a centrepiece and lets his imagination run from there. In this case, he wanted to highlight the braid and started thinking of the details as he began to work with the hair. “Everything evolves as you start getting your hands moving, but it’s important to have a strong direction and starting point that you can play off of,” he says. “We started with the blonde profile shot. From there, I knew I wanted to use twists or braids as my common element to unify the looks.” Multi-Textured In order to keep the looks softer and more delicate, Fournier utilized multiple heat styling techniques to create a mix of textures. “I’m a big texture guy,” he says. “I always like to blend textures but not go too crazy with it; just a couple of different styles blended into one.”
Strike a Pose When deciding on the mood of the shoot, Fournier says two words came to mind: High fashion. “I wanted my final product to look like it belonged on the pages of Italian Vogue,” he says. “Because I’m a Sebastian artist, we’re known for our dark side, so I’m definitely attracted to that and wanted to incorporate a mysterious and moodier vibe to my photos, which is why I went for black and white.” Teamwork can make or break a collection and Fournier says he’s thankful he had such a strong team in his corner, helping him all the way through. Even though he was working with a new photographer and amateur models, the collaborative effort came together beautifully, and he was very happy with the final product. Looking forward, Fournier is currently collaborating on a global project, but plans on continuing to grow their salon team while also starting to work on their upcoming Contessa collection.
TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: IAN PROCTOR
Contessa Gallery — CONTESSA 2020 FINALIST, ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST
“As an artist, I’ve always been pushed to get away from the norm and try to do things a little bit differently.”
On the heels of working backstage at London and Milan fashion weeks, we caught up with Canadian hairstylist Kirsten Klontz to chat about her journey into the exciting, yet unexpected world of editorial styling.
BY VERONICA BOODHAN
PHOTOS: KIRSTEN KLONTZ
As a hairstylist originally from Edmonton, Alberta, how did you get your start? When I was working at Mousy Browns, [a salon in Edmonton], we were a small team and really focused on education. We worked with Bumble and Bumble, which would sponsor so many shows at New York Fashion Week. They didn’t have enough hairstylists to work backstage, so I travelled to get onto their team. I was 24 at the time, and when I did my first season it was a big moment for me. It really inspired me to want to focus my career on fashion and session hairstyling. From there, I worked on advertising campaigns. I travelled to Dubai and started working for Chanel and Louis Vuitton. I loved it; I really fell in love with the business. It’s nice to see how hairstyling translates in the editorial and commercial world. Then, I moved to London and worked in the U.K. for two years. What do you enjoy most about working at Fashion Week? I enjoy the creative collaboration; I enjoy working with others. There are models, celebrities, and you’re working with other incredibly talented hairstylists. You have to work together, and I really enjoy the team aspect of it. I also enjoy how the looks are translated into real life. A lot of the looks are exaggerated, so you need to be able to see that and find a way to deliver it to the client.
Profile — KIRSTEN KLONTZ
Creating PicturePerfect Hair
When she’s not travelling the world, Kirsten Klontz works at the Loft Urban Salon in Toronto.
You also do a lot of editorial work for magazines. How does that compare to working at Fashion Week? It’s always a collaboration, but hair is just one piece of the puzzle. There are makeup artists, wardrobe stylists, art directors—they’re all involved, so all those things have to be taken into consideration. I really like it and it’s challenging. Sometimes I walk in with an idea ahead of time, but some people might give a different take or direction, so I have to think outside the box. I view hair as a texture or a fabric that you work with, and something that you can change and alter. So it’s just looking at it in a different way; as a different art form. What advice do you have for people interested in doing more editorial work? Education! I’ve apprenticed and assisted under some of the best hairstylists in the world, including Malcolm Edwards, and have taken courses for styling from distributors. There are all these different online courses you can take
from different brands, so that is essential. You need to step out of your comfort zone and learn techniques to really get ahead or set yourself apart. I spent years investing in myself that way. You recently started working as an ambassador for Hot Tools. Why was this partnership a good fit for you? I’ve used Hot Tools throughout my entire career. When I moved overseas, I didn’t have the money to buy a whole new tool kit with different adapters. I brought my [North American] voltage set to Dubai and used them there. I could plug them in every time and the heat was consistent, so I would get great results. I had them on me for my very first Vogue shoot six or seven years ago. It’s something I will never forget because I was so nervous that day. Without a doubt, it was the most important shoot I’d done in my entire career. I knew I wouldn’t have any problems that day, and when you’re able to deliver and are confident with what you’re using, it makes a huge difference. salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 57
CONTESSA 2020 WINNER, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST, DOROTHY TSANG, BLUSHES, OT TAWA
Unleash your creativity! ENTRY D E A D LI N E AU G U ST 4, 2020
PRESENTED BY
I M P O R TA NT: LE A R N M O R E A B O UT N E W CATE G O R I E S A N D R U LE C H A N G E S! S A L O N M A G A Z I N E.C A/C O N T E S S A
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#ContessaAwards
Business —
Clean Up Your Act Uncover some of the most common misconceptions of owning a green (or clean) hair salon.
BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN
Beauty comes at a price, especially in the hair industry. From water usage to improper waste disposal, there are many ways that salons can be not-so-green. Thankfully, now more than ever, there are tons of educational resources and organizations available to help salons adopt greener practices. Whether you’re a sustainable pro or a curious novice, we’re breaking down the most common myths and misconceptions of owning a green salon.
The Cost of Going Green
There’s a common perception that anything environmentally friendly is more expensive, but that’s not always the case, says Will Simpson, head of global corporate accounts for Green Circle Salons. For salons interested in ecofriendly business practices, Green Circle works with individual budgets. Though there may be some upfront costs, there are definite financial advantages in the long run. “As you’re reducing waste, you’re automatically creating more profitability,” says Simpson, who adds that a lot of business owners are hesitant to make expensive changes to their salon without being able to see an immediate return. However, what they often don’t realize is that they’ll notice an immediate improvement in their monthly energy bills. Two of the most common sustainable upgrades include installing LED lighting, which can help save up to 70 per cent of electricity every month and installing efficient showerheads, such as Ecoheads, that will use less water and reduce rinse time. “Each of our products pay for themselves within months of the purchase because of how much you’re saving,” says Valorie Tate, co-owner of Ecoheads North America. “The sustainability pays for itself.”
“Based on the business’ size, location and any other unique parts of their profile, we offer customized education and guidance, walking them through what the program would look like based on their needs,” says Simpson. Having this customizable approach is key because, for example, a smaller salon in rural Saskatchewan wouldn’t have the same questions or concerns as a larger chain in Toronto. Green Circle also provides many online resources to help all salons and businesses—regardless of whether they work with Green Circle—to incorporate more sustainable practices. Even if you decide to work independently, it’s important to do your research and educate yourself about how to reduce your carbon footprint or use cleaner products. For Rolanda Anderson, owner of Salon True, Calgary’s first “organic” salon, she decided to explore more sustainable options following a health issue she experienced. “I dove into so much research on organic hair lines and the types of chemicals [used],” she says. Though skeptical at first, Anderson found Organic Way (Oway), which is dubbed “the world’s first professional organic hair colour, care and styling line” and is made with biodynamic, organic and
CURRENTLY, THERE ARE 750 CANADIAN SALONS THAT USE ECOHEADS SHOWERHEADS. THEY USE 65 PER CENT LESS WATER AND ENERGY, WHICH ON AVERAGE, REDUCES WATER USAGE BY 103 GALLONS (OR 780 WATER BOTTLES).
Some business owners think of “green” as a niche market, but that’s far from the case. In today’s world, there are so many educational resources to help equip owners with necessary knowledge and to connect them with experts who are ready to answer any questions. 60 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
PHOTO: GETTY
Be in the Know
“AS YOU’RE REDUCING WASTE, YOU’RE AUTOMATICALLY CREATING MORE PROFITABILITY”
By the Numbers In 2019, Green Circle Salons diverted…
—WILL SIMPSON, HEAD OF GLOBAL CORPORATE ACCOUNTS FOR GREEN CIRCLE SALONS
A few larger and more mainstream brands have also started offering colour products with less chemicals, including Oligo Professionnel’s Calura Gloss, which Anderson uses and is alcoholfree and doesn’t contain PPD (a chemical that can cause allergic reactions). In addition, Anderson has implemented green practices throughout her salon, with the use of the Ecoheads and recycling systems.
right [program] and they’re abiding by the proper protocol,” he says. “Green Circle is able to guarantee that all of its recyclable material is being responsibly recycled.” Simpson suggests doing your own research or asking a Green Circle representative about your city’s recycling regulations and programs, including how to properly separate your waste materials.
Quality Control
Some salon owners may fear that if they slightly raise their prices to accommodate their new green or clean business initiatives, their clientele won’t support them. In reality, according to Simpson and Anderson, there is a huge market looking for hair salons with sustainable values—even if it’s going to cost them a few extra dollars. “The cost balances out in the end because when you elevate the entire experience for your guest by using a cleaner approach and not compromising your quality of work, most clients anticipate a cost increase,” Anderson says, adding that green and clean practices can have huge marketing benefits to help attract the right kind of clientele, which is another factor worth considering.
When it comes to hair colour, most chemicals truly are a stylist’s best friend, especially when they want to produce vibrant and long-lasting results. This often leads stylists, including Anderson, to think that more natural or organic alternatives aren’t as effective. “Before opening the salon, I made sure to try out all my products thoroughly, and I found that I got the same, if not even better, results compared to the other products that I was using for over 13 years,” she says. “My clients have a certain standard that they expect, and I didn’t want to compromise that, but after weeks of research and finding the right products, I realized I didn’t have to.”
The Reality Behind Recycling
According to Simpson, one of the most common and disheartening misconceptions is that recycling programs are ineffective. “Recycling is still very much happening; it’s just as effective as ever if you’re choosing the
Feeling Supported
EXPERT TIP WORRIED ABOUT HOW YOUR CLIENTELE WOULD FEEL ABOUT YOU GOING GREEN? JUST ASK THEM! ANDERSON RECOMMENDS SPEAKING DIRECTLY TO YOUR LOYAL CLIENTS TO GET THE MOST HONEST INSIGHT AND FEEDBACK.
900,000 pounds of waste 49,000 pounds of colour Green Circle’s program repurposes and recovers up to…
95% of resources
(that were once considered waste. i.e. hair, leftover hair color, foils, color tubes, aerosol cans, paper and plastics) Every day, salons across North America produce…
63,000 pounds of hair clippings 42,000 pounds of colour 206,000 pounds of paper and plastic
salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 61
Interiors — MAVN HAIR
Style and Comfort Find out how this Edmonton-based salon utilizes round edges to achieve their perfect fusion of luxury and intimacy.
Working in the industry for more than 36 years, Joanne Astle, owner of Mavn Hair, has always been fuelled by her love of making her clients feel beautiful and good about themselves—no matter where she worked. Once she had the opportunity to create her own space, she knew she wanted to achieve exactly that feeling, but this time through interior design. “Mavn, which is Yiddish for trusted expert, was born out of a desire to create a space that’s inviting and comfortable—where design and function come together,” she says. “We wanted to eliminate all barriers and make our clients feel safe and welcome.” 62 salonmagazine.ca / April 2020
Ahead of the Curve If you ever get a chance to walk into Mavn, the first thing you’ll notice is that there are very few corners in the salon. Most of the walls, furniture and décor elements are round, and there’s scientific basis behind that design choice. Astle’s husband, Clifford Neufeld, who has a background in business and assisted with the design process, explains that curves have a proven calming effect. “We found this to be so interesting and wondered whether we could replicate this same idea into our own salon,” says Neufeld, adding that their main styling space is round (and even includes circular mirrors). Along with this sense of comfort
and intimacy, both Astle and Neufeld wanted to establish an air of luxury at Mavn and worked that theme into all the fine details. For example, rather than using a matte or neutral paint, they opted for glossy black walls and used the same material as car wrap. The curved crystal chandelier is also a striking touch and one of Astle’s favourite features in the salon. “When I walk through the door every morning, it brings a smile to my face,” she says. “It just sparkles and there’s something really special about it.” Efficiency, But Make it Chic As a veteran hairstylist, Astle came up with most of her design choices by
PHOTOS: STEFAN LEGACY
BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN
DETAILS Opened in April 2019 DESIGN Gerald Cajindos from Cajindos Designs FURNITURE Gamma and Bross SPACE 1,750 square feet TEAM 10 BRANDS Balmain Sachajuan Matrix Redken WEBSITE/ INSTAGRAM mavnhair.com @mavnhair
looking back on her career and creating solutions for any functional issues she’s encountered in the past. For example, she didn’t install any phones in the salon in order to minimize the number of interruptions for stylists (all bookings have to be done online). Another big feature is their movable concierge desk. They purposely set it up with wheels to be able to move it out of the way and open up the space for special events or education classes.
Fun little perk: It even doubles as a bar, making the transition from day to night even easier. Lastly—and most importantly for stylists—the large rounded styling mirrors (sourced from Gamma and Bross) are made with outlets and storage space to hold all appliances and cords, keeping the space as tidy and safe as possible. They also set up each station with independent power, so they don’t have
to worry about blowing a circuit. But to make sure that their closing routine is as simple as possible, they also set up a single switch in the back that controls all the power in the entire salon. “I’ve worked in this industry for so long, so of course I experienced tons of little pains and nuisances at different salons that bothered me over time,” she says. “With all that in mind, we really tried to solve as many traditional issues as possible.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 63
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Events —
Talented award recipients included: three-time winner Tina Blais from Cosmoprof, Consultant of the Year for Matrix and Biolage on national and regional levels; Maritime Beauty, Distributor of the Year; and Beaute Star (formerly Star Bédard), Best Store Color Growth.
Matrix’s 2020 National Sales Meeting
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When & Where: February 9-10, Montreal
Every NSM wouldn’t be complete without a fun celebration! This year’s event included a dance party at Studio54 on the opening night, and to wrap up the weekend, a glamorous gala and awards ceremony followed by an afterparty!
PHOTOS: SALON STAFF
Approximately 250 industry professionals and distributors attended Matrix’s 2020 national sales meeting (NSM) in Montreal. From company announcements to upcoming launches, the brand pulled out all the stops to get the crowd excited for their upcoming plans. Attendees were given exclusive access to company-wide announcements, ongoing projects and product unveilings, including the launch of their new online educational platform, Access. The weekend also ended with an awards gala and ceremony to recognize top performers in the industry.
Matrix Canada has appointed Rodrigo Araneda as their new artistic director. Araneda is an award-winning hairstylist and owner of Olab Coiffeurs salon in Montreal. He’s been working with Matrix as a brand ambassador since 2019 and has formerly worked with Wella Professionals and Revlon Professional.
Scoop —
Moving on Up
salonmagazine.ca / April 2020 65
#NoFilter —
Influencer Spotlight FIND OUT HOW THESE HAIRSTYLISTS HAVE USED THEIR SOCIAL MEDIA PROWESS TO CONNECT WITH CLIENTS AND TAKE THEIR BUSINESS AND CAREERS TO THE NEXT LEVEL.
Marcus Villeneuve Quebec City @marcuuus (Followers: 20.8K) Claim to Fame Blonde specialist and owner of Chez Marcus What are your tips for growing an Instagram following?
Victoria Hazell Toronto @missvictorious (Followers: 34K+) Claim to Fame A multi-tasking barber, hairstylist and educator When you first started your career as a hairstylist, you mainly worked with women’s hair. What made you also want to become a barber?
I was working in a salon but also volunteering at a barbershop to get my feet wet, and it wasn’t very common for females to work as barbers back then [in 2013], so whenever I would walk into the shop, everyone would just stare at me. But I knew that’s what I wanted to pursue. I loved the sharp looks you could create with men’s hair, so I figured I’d be the one to bite the bullet and forge my own path. The fact that there weren’t a lot of women in this field was more of a reason for me to do it. How would you describe your brand on Instagram?
When it comes to Instagram, everybody can look at a photo, but nobody really knows all the ins and outs of your path and story. I try to be as real as possible without being too vulnerable and once I started doing that, I noticed that my followers started to engage with me more. I’m not just posting photos and videos of haircuts and styles, I’m posting good and bad days, and really anything anyone can relate to.
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Mai Nguyen Vancouver @hairbymai (12.7K) Claim to Fame Asian hair specialist and owner of Mysekai Hair Salon How did you first get into using Instagram for your own marketing?
“I started playing around with Instagram in 2015 and it helped me so much with getting new clients. How can you say no to free marketing? I got my first boost in followers by collaborating with an influencer named Julie Vu, who was getting really popular at the time. We shot a video together, which ended up getting [more than] two million views. That gave me a really big push.” Do you have any social media goals for 2020?
“I’m currently trying to find different ways to package my content, so my feed isn’t just dozens of photos of hair. I want to dabble more in digital tutorials and educational videos where I share product knowledge or other hair tips.”
PHOTOS: MARCUS VILLENEUVE, VICTORIA HAZELL, MAI NGUYEN
I think that social media plays such an important role nowadays, especially in the hair industry. It’s the easiest way to showcase your work to potential clients, which really impacts their choice in whether they want you to be the one to do their hair. There are so many great stylists nowadays, so you really need to utilize everything to set yourself apart. When it comes to followers, I often think: “One follower at a time.” I post a lot about my daily life, my creations and even my inspirational process, and I’ve gotten good feedback about that style. Authenticity is key. People like to be able to relate to people they’re following, so it’s important to not stray too far from the content you’re posting.
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