Salon Magazine, April 2022

A GU I DE TO W E DDI NG DAY H A I R A N D BE AU T Y

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

SP OT L IGH T ON C ON T E S SA PHOTO GR A PH E R S

T I P S FOR I NCR E A SI NG PR IC E S A N D M A NAGI NG YOU R SA L ON ’ S F I NA NCE S

The Business of Bridal A PR I L 2 0 2 2

salonmagazine.ca

Before

After

*When using Instacure anti-breakage porosity spray versus non-conditioning shampoo

Coming May 2022

Instacure Anti-Breakage System

Split-end sadness? Brushing breakage breakdown?

Instacure has you covered. Our porosity - filling system leaves strands strong, for 60% less breakage!*

NEW MOROCCANOIL PROFESSIONAL HAIRCOLOR Discover care-infused color, delivering vibrant, long-lasting results with intense shine.

Visit MoroccanoilProfessionals.com to learn more.

9-Time Winner of Salon Magazine’s Reader’s Choice Awards

DREAM WEDDINGS DESERVE DREAM HAIR. LONG LOCKS. VOLUMINOUS UPDOS. BLENDED BALAYAGE – WEDDING HAIR POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS WITH THE VERSATILITY OF GREAT LENGTHS.

“Hair like you” means just that – hair that fits each person’s unique and individual style. Great Lengths’ ethically sourced 100% customizable remy human hair extensions can create that perfect Dream Style for any guest on their special day and beyond.

Visit greatlengths.com/en-ca to learn more about the various systems GL has to offer and how to become a Certified Great Lengths Extension Artist HAIR: The Beauty Bar – Marianne Savage; Judith Parrish | MAKEUP: Judith Parrish | MODEL/BRIDE: Jenna D’Aquila-Kelly BRIDAL GOWN: Paloma Blanca | PHOTOGRAPHY: Mark Kostel @ Kostel & Co. @greatlengthscanada #greatlengthscanada | 1.800.461.9302 | info.canada@greatlengths.com

WI WINNER NN ER 2021

BEFORE

April 2022 26 F E AT U R E

Shoot to Win

Get the inside scoop from top Contessa photographers and their go-to tips for photo shoots. Plus, learn how hairstylists can utilize competitions to grow their brands.

38

33

ELLE SCHOEM A KER , C O B E L L E C R E AT I V E , AU S T R A L I A

F E AT U R E

“Brides don’t want to look overly done anymore. They want to look like they’ve created something themselves with a little bit more polish and finesse.”

Back to Bridal

Stay up-to-date on the latest wedding hair trends for the year, and find out some of the key benefits of building bridal services into your salon business.

37 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

Elle Schoemaker; Martin Crean; Gonzalo Zarauza; Danielle Keasling; Schwarzkopf Professional; Angelo Seminara; Suzanne Maurice

54 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Ken Hung

Learn the inspiration behind this Vancouver-based hairstylist’s finalist collection, and why he considers competitions to be critical in helping stylists build their careers and relationships in the industry.

— SHARON BLAIN, RENOWNED HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATOR, AUSTRALIA

ON THE COVER: HAIR: GONZALO ZARAUZA, CENTRO BETA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: WILD VAN DIJK, WARDROBE STYLING: VISORI FASHIONART, PHOTOS: ESTEBAN ROCA salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 7

10

Editor’s Letter

12

44

L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

DA N I E L L E KEASLING, H A IR B I Z A N D B E YO N D , H I LT O N H E A D ISL A N D, SC

SalonMagazine.ca

Check out the winning entry for our latest “So You Think You Can Style?” contest.

Plus, head over to our website for the latest trends, how-tos, industry news and so much more!

56

13

P RO F I L E

Northern Pride

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Get to know Ana Sorys, an award-winning editorial hairstylist, who’s worked on numerous TV projects and campaigns, including with the cast of Schitt’s Creek!

Get ready to slay any hair look this season with new launches in haircare, colour, styling and more. Plus, learn about the latest sustainability initiatives from brands to celebrate Earth Month.

58 BUSINESS

Financial Check-Up

Are you taking care of your business? Get tips on how to manage your finances and raise your prices this season.

60 INTER IORS

Royal Treatment

Take a look inside this ultrafeminine Toronto-based salon, and find out how its millennial entrepreneurial owner manifested the space of her dreams.

64

Events/Scoop

8 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

40

66

C O N T E S S A 2 0 2 2 F I N A L I S T, I N T E R N AT I O N A L H A I R S T Y L I S T, M A R T I N CR E A N, MODE SA LON, CA M P D E N , U . K .

SA LON STOR IE S

Making a Masterpiece

Check in with Frederic Aspiras, celebrity hairstylist and Joico ambassador, about the hairstyles he created for House of Gucci, and his experience working with Lady Gaga!

NEW ELEMENTS

le nt Ge HAIR CARE

FOR HEALTHY-FEELING HAIR & SCALP Up to 99% natural origin ingredients* Formulated without sulfates or silicones Free of animal derived ingredients Responsible packaging *from 91% to 99% natural origin ingredients depending on products ©2022 The Wella Company

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 31, ISSUE 3 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Editor’s Letter —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR Leen Blaibleh leen@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner

CONSULTANT Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca

Minding Your Business

Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director

10 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

Subscription Rates For Canada 1 year (9 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 9 issues) $60.00 HST included.

Canadian orders only, must be to same location US 1 year (9 issues) $50 USD

Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

Working in the beauty industry, most of us are aware that the majority of successful salon owners pour their blood, sweat and tears into their business. And while that’s a fact in any given year, following a tumultuous 2020 and 2021, it’s clear that the owners who persevered throughout the pandemic did so with an incredible amount of hard work and resiliency.

While we finally appear to be making it through to the other side of it all, now the question is, what are you planning on doing moving forward? In Financial Check-Up (pg. 58), we chatted with experts for their top tips and advice for everything from raising your prices to better managing your cashflow.

When it comes to increasing revenue within the salon, many owners are capitalizing on the return of weddings and special occasions. In Back to Bridal (pg. 33), I checked in with the pros for their take on bridal hair and beauty trends for the year, and how salons and stylists can benefit from incorporating more styling and finishing services into their repertoire.

After some inspiring conversations with business owners recently, it’s inspired me to look at things with a new perspective. Remaining stagnant is no longer an option.

Regardless of your demographic, there’s always something new you can learn that will help your business, whether it’s social media or e-commerce, or ways to better maximize your team and brand.

Of course, it goes without saying that competing and winning awards can also help bring business back into the salon. While the pandemic hasn’t been easy on photographers, we wanted to show them some love in Shoot to Win (pg. 26). In this special spotlight, we feature Contessa photographers from coast to coast who share their inspiring stories and standout photo shoot tips for hairstylists and beauty pros.

We’re also happy to share our new Contessa Awards Entry Guide, with all the latest info, including rule changes and an exciting new category! I truly can’t wait to see what you all come up with for this year’s competition. Remember: You have to be in it to win it!

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

WHAT’S YOUR TOP PICK?

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

30 Categories 2 New Categories • Luxury Brand • Toning Product

SalonMagazine.ca/RCA

#SalonRCA2022

We have a plethora of highfashion, creative images of bold haircuts and styles that are sure to inspire your next editorial collection.

Get the Scoop!

➣ Red Carpet Looks

12 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

➣

Fresh off the awards season red carpet, we have step-by-step details on how to achieve the hottest nail trends.

Celebrity Hair Hacks Make your clients look like superstars! Check out our celebrity hair tutorials and get inspired to recreate these fun styles behind the chair.

And The Winner Is… A big congratulations goes out to Lauren Green from Aylmer, Ont., for winning our “So You Think You Can Style?” Bold Bridal contest!

Learn more about how she created this winning look.

PHOTOS: HAIR: VIKTORIIA VRADII, LE SALON VRV, UKRAINE, MAKEUP: EVGENIYA SPIKTORENKO, WARDROBE STYLING: IRINA DZHUS, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY, SYTYCS PHOTO: LAUREN GREEN, EMAIL BY RUKANICON FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, INSTAGRAM

Sign up for our weekly newsletter to stay ahead of the curve on industry news and hot tips for the season.

➣

salonmagazine.c

➣

Chic Cuts

➣

PHOTO: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: SHELLEY LANE, SHELLEY LANE INSPIRES, U.K., MAKEUP: RYO LOVE, PHOTO: DAN THOMAS

ADD SOME SPRING TO YOUR HAIR AND BEAUTY GAME WITH THE LATEST LAUNCHES IN CARE, COLOUR, STYLING AND MORE. PLUS, LEARN ABOUT SOME EXCITING EARTH MONTH INITIATIVES!

With softer styles and textures that have been transformed into striking looks, this British collection

by Shelley Lane, UK ambassador for milk_shake, is inspired by nature and the delicate flight of butterflies and flowers. The pastel and warm tones juxtapose against the soft movements of the hair to create feelings of confidence and freedom while an array of strong structures and voluminous looks epitomize the fresh and airy feel of the season.

To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 13

➣

Getting in the Game Are you looking for care-infused colour products for your clients? Moroccanoil has released their biggest launch to-date with their new Professional Haircolor Collection—an innovative portfolio consisting of Color Rhapsody permanent cream colour (available in 68 shades ranging from rich naturals to vibrant fashion tones), high-lift permanent cream colour (five shades from warm to cool), Color Calypso demi-permanent gloss (44 shades), Blonde Voyage powder and clay lighteners, Color Infusion mixers (seven shades), and developers for all hair types. Powered by the brand’s proprietary ProArginine + ArganID system— ProArginine is an amino acid that’s naturally found in hair and acts as an alkalizing agent for superior colour penetration while ArganID repairs and seals the cuticle—the range of products provide long-lasting, vibrant colour and intense shine that boost hair health and integrity. Plus, the collection promotes scalp comfort!

To coincide with the launch, Moroccanoil has announced its new global colour ambassador, Jessica Scott Santo, and has partnered with celebrity colourists, Greg Gilmore and Amanda Lee, to help promote the colour collection.

➣ V I TA M I N C F O R H A I R

Brighten your blondes with Redken’s Blondage High Bright System.

➣ F E S T I V E A N D FA B U L O U S

Get colourful with Oligo’s FunkHue festival hair kits.

Are your clients looking to play with their colour this season? Oligo Professionnel has launched FunkHue, a festival hair kit that offers six unique semi-permanent shades with a booklet on formulations and techniques. With its exclusive Colour Lock Technology, FunkHue prevents excessive bleeding, staining and fading. Stylists can provide their clients with long-lasting vibrant colour (without the use of a developer) and create endless possibilities with intermixable shades that last up to 12 shampoos. Added bonus: The kits are not tested on animals, contain no animal byproducts and come in recyclable packaging!

14 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Who said Vitamin C is only for skincare? Now you can pre-treat, cleanse and condition your clients’ hair with Redken’s Blondage High Bright System.

The three-piece line is ideal for blonde clients who struggle with dull colour in between salon visits. Formulated with the brand’s Brightening Care Complex—made with chelators for instant results—and Vitamin C, which is known for its tremendous brightening benefits, the gamechanging trio consists of a pre-treatment, shampoo and conditioner for brighter, silkier and more conditioned results. Plus, since the products seal the hair cuticle to prevent colour fade and dullness, it means the more you use this line on your client’s hair, the brighter the results!

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): MOROCCANOIL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, AMIKA, REDKEN, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL

Hairlines — NEWS

Moroccanoil unveils its highly anticipated Professional Haircolor Collection.

➣

Shining Star Hairlines — NEWS

Wella Professionals names Lucy Hale as their North American brand ambassador.

—

Features farinfrared heat to lock in moisture and reduce thermal damage

Three adjustable air/thermal brush settings up to 410°F for style customization

Features five rows of ceramic inner heated teeth for fast drying and styling

—

Negative ion generator to increase shine and reduce frizz

—

Nine-foot swivel cord for ease of use in the salon

—

Flexible outer teeth deliver necessary grip

—

TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX

amika Double Agent 2-in-1 Blow Dryer + Straightening Brush —

TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX

Actress Lucy Hale is partnering with Wella Professionals on their recent launch, Shinefinity. The long-lasting, zero-lift colour glaze can be used on both colour-treated and natural hair to add shine and smoothness without damage. Formulated without ammonia, silicones, alcohol, parabens or animal-derived ingredients, Shinefinity Color Glaze is available in 32 shades and is designed to stay in a neutral PH (never below 6.5) for hair that looks and feels silky, healthy and beautiful. Plus, it can be used on all hair types and textures! “After getting the glaze, my hair looked like glass and felt so healthy,” says Hale. “My hair goes through a lot while I’m working, and this helped give my hair the boost it needed.”

“I love the versatility!

When I want a quick and efficient blowout, it’s the tool to use. I’m naturally curly and when I wear my hair straight, the dual action of the blowout brush and the straightening brush is my tool of choice.

As a hairstylist, my clients love the double agent because they can have salon blowouts at home! I describe it to them as their personal hairdresser.” — Queen Gagné, an amika pro educator based in Quebec

C O L O U R F U L C R E AT I O N S

Take your looks to the next level with Schwarzkopf’s Igora Royal Mixes collection, and learn more about a limited-edition kit inspired by Josie Vilay!

Schwarzkopf Professional has teamed up with the Pantone Color Institute—the global colour expert and trend forecaster—to present the Igora Royal mixes collection, featuring 18 new shades inspired by three key trends: Novel Comfort, a palette of earthy tones inspired by nature; Quintessential, a mix of playful floral hues with cool ash and cendré tones; and E-phoria, a celebration of self-expression with bolder shades ranging from deep purples to vibrant coppers and reds.

But that’s not all! Schwarzkopf Professional has also collaborated with colour educator Josie Vilay to release the limited-edition Igora Royal Mixes kit, which includes all of the shades necessary to recreate Vilay’s four unique hues inspired by Pantone’s Fashion, Home & Interior Color Systems. Also included in the kit are items to support the colour process, including formulas and techniques for two creative looks, and Framar colour tools.

salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 15

➣ Goldwell unveils its 2022 Color of the Year!

Working with leading global colour experts, the brand has named BUBBLEGUM as the “it” colour for 2022. The retro-futuristic pink shade has been seen all over fashion runways, and is a subtle combination of vibrant hot pink and classic pastels that are carefully mixed to create this beautiful and fun hue. “This playful, inclusive colour represents diversity, self-identity, fun and freedom, which is something our stylists couldn’t wait to start replicating in their colour formulas,” says John Moroney, global creative director for Goldwell. “Striking the unique balance between flirtatious and wholesome, cool and warm, and soft and strong, the dynamic aspects of BUBBLEGUM will infuse the look with a headturning dramatic effect like no other.” The pastel tones of pinks, yellows and a subtle blue create a feeling of positivity while still maintaining warm, strong accents. While there was a time that pink was considered to be a feminine colour, it’s transcended gender to complement a wide range of styles. BUBBLEGUM is sure to add a whimsical pop to your looks this season!

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

Approved by YOU! Don’t miss your opportunity to vote for your favourite hair and beauty products in Salon’s 11th annual Reader’s Choice Awards!

It’s that time of year again! From April 1st to 15th, vote for your favourite products, brands and tools in our 11th annual Reader’s Choice Awards—the largest professional beauty awards in Canada! Cast your vote in any or all of the 30 categories (including two new ones: Luxury Brand and Toning Product) for a chance to win one of three $100 Visa gift cards.

➣

Double Duty

Visit SalonMagazine.ca/RCA for more information.

Colour and tone with Pulp Riot’s new Semi Elemental.

➣

Stand-Out Style

Add some edge to your styling station with the copper Master Cordless Clipper from Andis.

If you’re already a fan of the brand’s iconic Master Cordless Clipper, you’ll be happy to know that the hero product just got a new look! The limited-edition clipper is now available in a sleek copper housing with a new PVD coating process that makes the high-performance tool all the more durable. Even better: Not only does this stunning clipper work on all hair types, but it also includes a complimentary fade blade.

16 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

The four semi-permanent shades—Fly Trap (forest green), Sandstorm (coral) and Desert Sky (peach), along with the innovative Ghost Blood (white toner, which enables stylists to use a semipermanent colour that also tones), the products can be used on their own for toning blonde clients or added to other shades to create pastel mixes. The result? One-step colouring and warmth cancellation that provides the perfect non-oxidative option for clients with compromised hair. To use: Apply on wet or dry hair and leave on for 25 to 40 minutes at room temperature before rinsing (no developer needed!).

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): GOLDWELL, ARTÈGO, DAVINES, PULP RIOT, ANDIS

Hairlines — NEWS

POP OF COLOUR

➣ Get all-in-one low-commitment colour and care with Artègo’s LOLA Beauty Color Mask.

SAVE THE DATE FOR CONTESSA 2023!

Everything you need to know about rule changes and categories for the 34th annual Contessa Awards.

Enriched with the brand’s trademark Phyto Technology, the SYNERGETIC formula contains vegetable collagen, hemp oil, coconut oil, vegetable glycerol, jojoba esters and pure balanced pigments that hydrate and condition while repairing the hair fibre. With each use, the LOLA Beauty Color Mask will boost and refresh colour and even out tone while delivering shine, correcting/reducing colour fade and offering nourishing and protective care. Available in eight intermixable shades that contain 94 per cent natural ingredients, this colour mask will make your clients’ hair shiny and silky from the inside out.

Ready, set, Contessa! Get ready for this year’s competition with some exciting rule changes, including a brand-new category!

NEW CATEGORY COLLABORATION (CO-LAB) This category is designed to support teamwork between hairstylists and/or colourists who are not working in the same salon.

—

Submit three images (three different looks)

—

Versatility will be judged

—

A minimum of two hairstylists and/or colourists (maximum of four) must contribute to be eligible

—

Include the names, salons and locations of all participants in each entry

Hairlines — NEWS

Colour with Care

RULE CHANGES NEW WORK After permitting the re-entering of past work for the last two years, all categories must now be entered with NEW work (photographed in 2022 or 2021) that’s never been entered into the Contessa Awards.

ENTER MORE Entrants can now submit up to two* collections per category. *Note: For multiple entries, only the highestscoring collection will advance to semi-finalists and finalists.

NUMBER OF MODELS AND MANNEQUIN HEADS We’re continuing to allow the use of one model with three different looks (or five different looks for Canadian Hairstylist and Canadian Salon Team) in all categories. Mannequin heads are also permitted.

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST This category will now require the use of at least one model with Afro hair texture.

NOTE: For all categories, we strongly encourage the inclusion of models who are people of colour to represent the beauty of Canada’s diversity.

FREESTYLE All Freestyle entries will now be scored 50% by judging panel and 50% by online/public voting.

Entry Deadline: September 8, 2022

U N S T O P PA B L E S H I N E

Get shinier and more manageable results with Davines’ OI Liquid Luster.

Joining the brand’s best-selling OI line, Liquid Luster is a weightless, water-like treatment that’s designed to give hair instant softness and high shine. While this treatment may look and feel like water, it’s so much more! Containing hydrating agents that attach to the hair fibre, it creates an instant illuminating effect with no processing time. With ingredients like roucou extract (which contains vitamin A and selenium) to protect the hair against daily stressors like the sun, alpha-hydroxy acid from grape must to gently cleanse the hair without stripping it of its moisture, and cardoon extract to promote shine and manageability, hair is sure to feel shinier, silkier and softer.

As with all OI products, Liquid Luster includes the brand’s iconic fragrance with musky and floral notes, aromatic and balsamic undertones, and a citrus accent. To use, squeeze out the excess water (after cleansing hair) and apply OI Liquid Luster. Massage hair to fully saturate and then rinse off.

MADE FROM 100 PER CENT RENEWABLE SOURCES, ITS PACKAGING IS MADE FROM POSTCONSUMER RECYCLED PLASTIC!

GALA DATE: NOVEMBER 20, 2022 Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre, Toronto salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 17

Sustainable From The Inside Out Wella’s new Elements line takes the company’s eco-commitment to the next level.

With the recent relaunch of their Elements line, which is designed to benefit the scalp and hair, Wella Professionals has prioritized sustainability with a cleaner formula (with up to 99 per cent natural origin ingredients) and more eco-responsible packaging. Made with up to 100 per cent post-consumer recycled plastic, the line also includes new recyclable pouches that are designed to reduce the use of plastic in salons. Along with an incredible 72 per cent less plastic per mL and the inclusion of 25 per cent recycled plastic, shampoo bottles and mask jars from the line are also refillable at Wella’s salon-exclusive recharge stations!

A IMING HIGHER

Learn about amika’s latest initiatives, just in time for Earth Month.

For Earth Month, amika continues to introduce sustainable initiatives to save the planet without compromising the health and beauty of hair. The brand’s signature ingredient (sea buckthorn), which is found in all of their products, is now organic, fair-trade and sustainably sourced from a certified-organic farm. amika is also working to minimize virgin plastic production and shift to post-consumer recycled bottles, while working to cut out any secondary packaging.

P RO T E C T I N G T H E P L A N E T

Moroccanoil continues to reduce its carbon footprint with post-consumer recycled plastic and pouches.

➣ E C O - C O N S C I O U S CA R E

Find out how Aveda is continually taking action to provide clean water to those in need, and how the brand is using (and reusing) recyclable materials for products.

Aveda is continuing their annual Earth Month campaign with a partnership with charity: water, a non-profit organization that helps provide clean water to people in need. Aveda is also relaunching its vegan Shampure Nurturing Shampoo Bar, which features zero plastic packaging and a carton made from 100 per cent post-consumer recycled certified fibre. With every purchase of this limited-edition bar, $5 will go to funding clean water projects.

As part of the brand’s mission to produce recyclable packaging, Aveda has announced its partnership with Xela Pack to launch a paper-based, locally recyclable sachet. One of the first beauty companies to launch a commercial blockchain pilot, which traces its vanilla supply chain (included in more than 125 Aveda products), stylists can now see the sourcing journey themselves on Aveda’s new site. The brand has also launched its Returnable Shipper Program, which helps stylists and clients reduce their environmental footprint by returning the shipping box, which is also reusable.

18 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Conscious packaging is top of mind for Moroccanoil. With a commitment to reduce the use of virgin plastic, the company’s packaging will now be comprised of 50 per cent post-consumer recycled materials, with a goal of saving more than 500 tons of virgin plastic over the next five years.

As part of Moroccanoil’s new hair colour launch, the brand has also introduced Blonde Voyage Powder and Clay Lighteners, which are each offered in pouches produced with 60 per cent less packaging weight than traditional lightener tubs.

PHOTO: ORGANIC BY SOU FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, GETTY STOCK, ECO PACKAGING BY BERKAH ICON FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Hairlines — THINK GREEN

➣

➣

Reducing Frizz and Footprint With a pledge to reduce its carbon footprint by at least 35 per cent in 2022, Olivia Garden is off to a strong start!

The brand has launched its limitededition OG Opal Brush Collection that's made with 100 per cent recycled plastic. Each brush features a unique patented design that hugs the scalp, with a removable cushion that allows for easy cleaning. The cushions are colourcoded by their different bristle types; pink for medium to thick hair, purple for fine to medium hair, teal is a mini brush for all hair types and the blue has a special blend of boar and nylon bristles designed to eliminate frizz and flyaways.

➣ T H R I V I N G I N S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

Great Lengths receives B Corp certification and announces sustainable initiatives.

# E A R T H M O N T H G OA L S

Authentic Beauty Concept unveils new sustainable products and packaging.

Hairlines — THINK GREEN

Olivia Garden launches first-ever brush collection made of 100 per cent recycled plastic!

Kicking off the year with the release of its first Eau de Toilette for skin and hair, Authentic Beauty Concept continues to align their products with their ethical values. Case in point: The Eau de Toilette comes packed in a climate-neutral box, which supports Plastic Bank, a plastic offsetting charity that supports clean oceans.

The brand’s products are made with vegan ingredients that are free from silicones, sulphates, parabens, artificial colourants and mineral oils.

Plus, 95 per cent of their ingredients are naturally-derived and come from origins such as sustainable guar.

Authentic Beauty Concept’s packaging is also recyclable, refillable and reusable. Stylists can even turn their containers into decorative plant pots!

Great Lengths has joined the B Corporation community as the first hair extension company to obtain B Corp certification, which is a huge step in taking responsibility towards the planet by providing stylists and clients with B-Corp-certified products. Great Lengths is also committing to working towards reducing the beauty footprint of the entire production chain and continuing to instill a sense of trust with their clients.

To coincide with their B Corp status, the brand has taken a sustainable approach towards designing their new packaging. The Great Lengths pouch and envelope help reduce the impact on the environment by giving a second life to materials and products.

➣

Save the Oceans

Biolage introduces limited-edition Earth Kits to help fight ocean plastic.

The new kits contain the brand’s bestselling shampoo and conditioner duos. And to celebrate Earth Month, Biolage partnered with Plastic Bank to help combat ocean plastic! With the purchase of one kit, one kilogram of ocean-bound plastic is prevented from polluting oceans. The Earth Kits are sustainably made with 100 per cent recycled cardboard to minimize waste. The design is also optimized to decrease the use of inks, and the bottles are made with post-consumer recycled plastic.

Biolage has also partnered with Chatters so that every time stylists and clients recycle empty haircare bottles, they receive 20 per cent off of Biolage products! salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 19

WITH GOLD FOILING AND METALLIC NAILS TAKING OVER THE RUNWAYS AT FASHION WEEK, LEARN HOW TO MAXIMIZE THIS TREND AND CREATE EYECATCHING NAIL DESIGNS WHILE BUILDING BUSINESS IN THE SALON.

Heavy Metallic As the world continues to emerge from pandemic restrictions and lockdowns, more clients are looking for ways to look and feel better about themselves. And while some clients will always prefer a more understated nail look, many more are opting for art that shows off their personality.

Rather than just for special occasions or the holiday season, metallic and foiled finishes are now becoming the new norm, especially since they were trending on the runways at spring shows including The Blonds, KNWLS and Vivienne Westwood.

“It’s a way for people to get more involved in the world of nail art,” says Arvella Giesbrecht, a Toronto-based nail artist and OPI educator. “I also think age is a huge factor. Older and more traditional ladies are still going for the classic one colour but the younger generation is definitely venturing into something different and exciting to look at.”

The Rise of Metallics While more clients are requesting metallic and gold foiled looks, some still don’t understand the difference between the two trends. According to Giesbrecht, the difference lies in the application and consistency of the product.

“To create chrome or metallic looks, you either use an additive to gently sponge it into the nail or you can also use polishes that give you a metallic look straight out of the bottle,” she explains.

“Gold foiling is more of an actual fine and soft foil consistency that you fleck onto the nail in the 20 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

PRO TIP FOR A MORE UNDERSTATED APPROACH, GIESBRECHT RECOMMENDS USING A FINE TWEEZER TO PLACE TINY PIECES OF GOLD FOIL AND CREATE A MORE INTRICATE DESIGN.

desired location and design, so they’re a different medium altogether.”

Gold foiling has been in such high demand that there are now different types available. “The first type is the traditional one-sided foil transfer sheets that come in gold and every other colour as well,” says Linda Trang Ly, a CND educator and owner of Onyx Aesthetics Studio in Vancouver. “Another popular type is using special layering techniques with gold chrome powders to get more precise and detailed nail art.”

Fun with Foils With so many variations and techniques, there’s not just one way to create gold foiling designs, which makes it all the more fun and unique! “I like to use abstract art to create random, uneven splashes of colour followed by random splashes of foil over it so no nail is the same,” says Ly. Giesbrecht, who is also a fan of abstract foil looks, uses the press method technique. “A press method is a foil that is pre-painted with the gold foil so you can just press it on the nail. I use this to create more abstract looks and transfer the gold foil, and press it into the base or colour coat depending on what look the client is going for.”

In order to make gold foiling more wearable for minimalist clients (including brides), Giesbrecht would opt for a soft design rather than an edgy one. “I would envelope it in soft pinks or an offwhite and then put the gold foil in between so it’s subdued,” she says. “Another go-to of mine is to do a half nail with a soft white or pink, and add gold foiling on the other half.”

One of the many ways Ly makes gold foiling more wearable is by incorporating it into traditionally classic nail looks. “I would incorporate gold foils and metallics in French tips or half-moons mixed with a natural look to add some glam to it,” she says. “Another favourite of mine is to hand-paint an empty heart and make the heart metallic.”

POT OF GOLD Since most metallic and gold foil designs require additional materials and more time, they’re a great way to build business in the salon. “I would say it’s an additional 10 to 15 minutes of the nail artist’s time for every client,” says Giesbrecht. “Most nail technicians charge extra and some even charge by nail.”

For nail artists creating gold foiling looks for the first time, Ly recommends starting slow. “Start off with a really nice semi-sheer colour that complements the client’s skin tone, but never forget to ask the client what they want. They might prefer a gold, silver or a rose gold and just because we like it, doesn’t mean the client will,” she says.

“Practice, practice, practice,” adds Giesbrecht. “If you can, practice on gel nail tips before trying gold foiling on clients, and don’t get too caught up in how it should look. Just have fun with it!”

TEXT: LEEN BLAIBLEH, PHOTOS: LINDA LY, INSTAGRAM (@DESINTONIOPACHECO), TWEEZER BY LADALLE CS FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Hairlines — NAILS

➣

Helping you make cleaner, greener, kinder choices.

Formulated without ingredients on our Free From list.

Developed completely without animal testing.

Free from animal products or derivatives.

Earth-friendly packaging solutions.

As a Green Circle certified salon chain we divert up to 95% of our salon-generated waste, which results in approximately 178lbs of beauty waste diverted from landfills daily.

LEARN MORE about our conscious products and services

FROM CURTAIN TO FEATHERED, WE SPOKE TO THE EXPERTS ABOUT THE NEW BOTTLENECK BANGS TREND AND HOW IT CAN HELP EASE YOUR CLIENTS INTO WEARING A FRINGE.

If you ask any hairstylist which trends were most influenced by the pandemic, chances are they’ll say low-maintenance hairstyles and bangs. From blunt to textured to micro (and even DIY versions), it’s clear that the fringe is here to stay.

As new trends continue to appear on our social media feeds, bottleneck bangs are the latest fresh take that offers a more delicate variation of curtain bangs, which went viral recently. Inspired by the shape of a bottle, bottleneck bangs are slimmer towards the roots and fan out towards the brows and ears.

“I think the bottleneck bangs trend is a great way to transition those clients who have reservations about wearing a full fringe or bang,” says Zachary Ferguson, a Toronto-based hairstylist and Wella educator. “It offers less commitment and maintenance versus a full fringe and gives the client a very contemporary look and feel.”

Curtain vs. Bottleneck Bangs

To the untrained eye, bottleneck bangs can look similar to curtain bangs but hairstylists can often tell the difference. “Bottleneck bangs are thinner, airier and shape the face a little more,” says Sandy Hogue, a Montreal-based hairstylist and L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador and educator. “They’re delicate and blend better with the face shape and hair.”

“Curtain bangs are more of a swooping faceframing layer,” adds Ferguson. “Bottleneck bangs are an extension of the curtain fringe and offer a slimmer, shorter area in the centre of the fringe that gradually widens to frame key areas of the face, whether it’s the cheekbone or jaw.”

As some clients are more willing to experiment with their hairstyles than they were pre-pandemic, bangs are one of the ways to create fun yet personalized looks. “What’s amazing about the 22 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

shape of this trend is that it’s like a bottle, so you can easily adapt and customize it to any face shape,” says Hogue, adding that although this trend works on most hair textures, she advises caution when working with curlyhaired clients. “I tried it on curly hair and it didn’t work the same,” she says. “It usually depends on the curl, but I would follow the natural curls when doing any hairstyle that goes from shorter to longer lengths.”

“Hair texture is always important to analyze prior to any service, but in the case of fringes, curly hair and its ability to shrink and expand will have to be taken into consideration,” adds Ferguson. “For very curly textures, the bottleneck fringe may not be the best option for your client.”

Celebrities such as Lily Collins, Billie Eilish and Dakota Johnson have all been spotted with this trendy fringe.

Making the Cut

A big draw for bottleneck bangs is its lowmaintenance factor, which many more clients have been opting for since the start of the pandemic.

According to Hogue, clients who choose to go for this trend don’t have to come back to the salon for up to two months. “People want a statement but don’t want regular visits to the salon anymore, so the hairstylist’s job is to show them how to maintain styles for long-lasting results,” she says. “I show my clients how they can blend the bangs with the rest of the hair by running their fingers through the bangs to define and reshape them.”

To achieve a soft-textured look, Ferguson recommends avoiding any straight lines. “It’s a very soft look so any cutting and/or razor work will add the softness needed,” he says.

“The technique begins with a longer layer that accentuates the client’s facial features, whether it’s framing the cheek or jaw bone area, and adding shorter sections towards the centre of the fringe to

PRO TIP USE SHEARS WHEN CUTTING SHORTERTO-LONGER HAIRSTYLES TO AVOID HARSH LINES AND CUT THE HAIR WHEN IT’S DAMP TO HAVE MORE CONTROL OVER FRAMING THE SHAPE OF THE BANGS.

TEXT: LEEN BLAIBLEH, PHOTO: HAIR: SUZIE MCGILL AND DYLAN BRITTAIN, RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL, U.K., MAKEUP: KIRSTEN BAILLIE, WARDROBE STYLING: DETROIT LAW, PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG, HAIR SCISSORS BY ROMAN FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, HAIRDRYER BY NAWICON FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Bottleneck Bangs ➣

Hairlines — SHORTCUTS

➣

“BOTTLENECK BANGS ALLOW CLIENTS A ‘BEST OF BOTH WORLDS’ SCENARIO BY HAVING A FRINGE BUT ALSO MAINTAINING A SOFTNESS THAT FRAMES THE FACE.” — ZACHARY FERGUSON, HAIRSTYLIST AND WELLA EDUCATOR, TORONTO

Bang For Your Buck

PRO TIP FOR STYLING, A SMOOTH BLOWDRY WILL GIVE THE CLIENT A SLEEKER LOOK. FOR A MORE NATURAL TOUSLED LOOK, USE YOUR FINGERS AND HANDS TO MANIPULATE THE FRINGE WITH A SEA SALT SPRAY.

create a similar silhouette to that of a bottle.”

And, while consultations are crucial for all hairstyles, they’re especially important for bangs.

Hogue recommends asking the client questions about their lifestyle and how they like to wear their hair, such as ‘Do you like to tie your hair up a lot?’

‘Are you comfortable with having free-flowing pieces around your face?’ and ‘Where do you part your hair?’

Ferguson suggests asking clients if they’ve had a fringe before and if they’re willing to spend time styling the front part of their hair before walking them through how to properly blow-dry and finish the look.

Fear of Fringe

With so many variations of bangs and fringes to choose from, some clients (and stylists) may still be hesitant about adding bangs to a hairstyle. “Fringes can often be scary for both stylists and clients as they’re typically seen as a big commitment; a lot of hair coming off and a lot of ‘face' being exposed,” says Ferguson. “Stylists can confidently recommend this trend knowing that they can

When it comes to low-maintenance hair trends, stylists may be concerned about income as they’re not seeing their clients as often. According to Ferguson, low maintenance shouldn’t mean revenue killer.

maintain length and gradually add in the shorter lengths as the shape develops.”

According to Hogue, some clients are often scared of bangs because of bad past experiences or if they’re having difficulty with maintaining them.

“That’s why I think it’s important to educate clients on how to style their bangs.”

Because of their low commitment and ability to be customized to a client’s face shape and desired look, bottleneck bangs can be a great way to introduce the idea of bangs to a reluctant client. “They’re a great option for a style that’s in between a fringe and a curtain bang,” says Ferguson. “Clients get the best of both worlds with the bottleneck trend, as it softly frames the face and is considered to be very low commitment when compared to a square-shaped heavy fringe.”

Since bottleneck bangs have many variations, in terms of length, it’s a great choice for almost every client. “You can customize it to any length but what’s amazing about the technique is that it gives the client’s hair more shape, even when it’s longer,” says Hogue. “It’s a good choice for someone who doesn’t want to go for full-on bangs right away.”

“As stylists, we need to educate our clients on the importance of regular trims in order to maintain the look and health of the hair,” he says. “It’s also a chance to upsell them on soft, face-framing colouring options that help boost the impact of bottleneck bangs.”

Using social media to attract more clients is Hogue’s recommendation to stylists who are concerned about revenue. “Stylists should focus on increasing the number of clients walking into their salon,” she says. “Social media is a great place to showcase your work and attract more clients.

You’d be surprised how well it works.”

salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 23

WHETHER IT’S BLONDES WANTING TO GO DARKER OR BRUNETTES WANTING TO LIGHTEN UP FOR SPRING, GET THE SCOOP ON THIS “RICH” COLOUR TREND AND FIND OUT HOW TO CASH IN ON IT IN THE SALON.

Expensive Brunette Expensive-looking hair colour can mean a lot of different things to different people, but if you ask most hairstylists and colourists, the focus will be on hair that looks healthy and shiny.

As another colour trend that’s emerged from the pandemic, Expensive Brunette has been making waves, especially with celebrities such as Hailey Bieber, Sofia Richie and Ciara.

“During the pandemic, people weren’t able to see their stylists as often, so it was about learning to make different choices that required less maintenance,” says Lindie Blackwell, a master colourist and Goldwell educator based in Barrie, Ont. “Expensive Brunette is about transitioning to something that doesn’t require as much maintenance, but by the same token, still looks really beautiful and, of course, expensive and healthy.”

Less is More While we’ve been used to seeing more highcontrast looks with balayage and money pieces, Expensive Brunette is more understated, creating more blended, multidimensional results.

“With Expensive Brunette, you don’t want everything to be one shade,” says Blackwell. “There are ways to create subtle enhancements within the colour. If you look at a child’s hair, for example, they have the most beautiful colour because they have multi-reflections of different colours naturally, and those are the things that, as colourists, we should be trying to recreate.”

Although Expensive Brunette started with more blondes looking to go back to their darker, natural colour, darker-haired clients can also get in on this trend by exploring ways to add lightness to their colour without going blonde.

“It’s about introducing a more brunette look for darker hair levels—like a one to five—who steer away from bleach work because they don’t want to be blonde,” says Amber Joy, a Winnipegbased salon owner, colourist and a member of

24 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Schwarzkopf Professional’s #SKPCANSquad.

“There’s so much we can do nowadays to create an Expensive Brunette look by utilizing things like base-breaking, more tone-on-tone balayage and wet balayage to break through dark barriers at the base, creating that nice, sun-kissed feel.”

Joy says base-breaking is an underrated way of adding more dimension to brunette colour, but can also do wonders to help add some lightness to darker levels.

“It’s something that looks a little more luxurious because it does completely transform the hair,” she says. “For someone who has a level two black base and gets some level six or seven sandy caramel highlights, the contrast between that can look a little bit tacky. But with the base break, it allows us to soften the transition between the two tones and it really does make the colour look a little more special.”

“Not everyone wants bleach work,” Joy adds.

“If you have a dark-haired client who wants to see some change but isn’t ready to go full throttle, basebreaking is an amazing way to give them a really big change in one day without them feeling like they’re going to damage their hair.”

Making a Match As is the case with any colour change, a consultation is vital for ensuring that you’re getting the client to the correct level they’ll be comfortable with.

“It’s always important to know what the client’s plan is for the future,” says Blackwell. “For example, if you’re dealing with somebody who’s been blonde for the majority of their life, the likelihood of them wanting to go back at some point is going to be pretty high. When I find something like that out, I’m

PRO TIP FOR CLIENTS WHO MAY BE HESITANT ABOUT WARMER TONES, CONSIDER A BASE-SHIFT (A SUBTLE APPROACH COMPARED TO A TRADITIONAL BASE-BREAK OR FOILAYAGE), WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO SOFTLY INTRODUCE A CHANGE TO THEIR COLOUR WHILE KEEPING A MORE NEUTRAL TONE.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: HAIR: CRAIG CHAPMAN, CRAIG CHAPMAN SALON, U.K., MAKEUP: ELIZABETH RITA, WARDROBE STYLING: CLEMENTINE O’HARA, PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER JENEY; HAIR: RUSSELL EATON ART TEAM, U.K., MAKEUP: ANNA WILD, PHOTO: BEN OTTEWELL & DANNY MENDOZA, GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, REDKEN, COLOR SWATCH BY KAITLIN TILL-LANDRY FROM NOUNPROJECT. COM, SPARKLE BY PETRA CUSCHIERI FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Hairlines — COLOUR

➣

PRODUCT PICKS

Goldwell Colorance This demi-permanent colour line offers multidimensional shine with 75 per cent grey coverage.

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vibrance Get tone-on-tone results with this demipermanent colour that lasts up to 25 shampoos.

not going to darken them down to level five. Instead, I might darken them down to a level seven and use a demi-permanent colour that gives me more freedom to switch them back to something lighter later, as opposed to going with a permanent colour that’s more difficult to remove. There’s nothing worse than making somebody’s hair really dark and then they want to go back to blonde at their next appointment.

That’s every hairdresser’s nightmare!”

Once you’ve determined their commitment level, it’s important to choose the right shade family based on the client’s skin tone.

“Realistically, any trend can work for anyone. The key is making sure that you stay within the tonal family that enhances the person’s skin tone,” says Blackwell. “For example, if your client has olive skin, you don’t want anything that’s green-based because that brings out the green in their skin. So make sure that you’re using complementary shades to the person’s individual skin tone.”

“I think there’s a placement or process that anyone can pull off—it’s just about determining how warm or neutral to go with it,” adds Joy. “There are so many options available that it can be for anyone. I’m really loving that there’s a shift back to more tone-on-tone, sun-kissed looks because I feel it enhances people’s natural looks best.”

When building business in the salon, Blackwell

Redken Blonde Idol Base Breakers Available in two shades (clear and cool), these base breakers offer up to one level of lift in just 10 minutes.

PRO TIP TO KEEP COLOUR DIMENSIONAL, DON’T GO MORE THAN TWO SHADES LIGHTER OR DARKER THAN YOUR CLIENT’S BASE COLOUR.

says it’s important to not forget about maintenance for brunette clients.

“I think people forget that a lot because we’re constantly toning our blondes and asking them to come in partway through their appointments, but the same goes for brunettes and redheads,” she says. “It will be less shockingly visual maintenance, but if you don’t maintain those colours, they don’t have the same visual appeal, either. In order to keep the integrity of the hair and make sure it’s looking good—and, in turn, expensive—make sure you’re giving your clients the right information to keep their hair looking great by glossing the hair and coming in to add in a few enhancement pieces to change things up a bit.”

“If you have a client getting the full shebang with foilayage and base break, they will need to come back for retouches,” adds Joy. “Base-breaking does need to be retouched as the hair grows out—every three or four months—or a retouch every second visit for highlights. But I feel like anyone who’s tried this Expensive Brunette look gets addicted and loves it, so they will continue to come back for retouches.

I also love that warm tones have made a comeback and think it’s really exciting that we’re going in this direction. It’s something fresh and new for stylists to get excited about—whether it’s to learn it or try it, it’s a really good trend for our industry.”

“SOME OF THE MOST DIFFICULT COLOURS TO ACHIEVE ARE THE ONES THAT ARE SUBTLE, AND IN TURN, THOSE ARE THE ONES THAT END UP LOOKING MORE COUTURE AND EXPENSIVE. THEY’RE MORE VISUALLY APPEALING BECAUSE THEY’RE SHINY AND HEALTHY.” — LINDIE BLACKWELL, MASTER COLOURIST AND GOLDWELL EDUCATOR, BARRIE, ONT. salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 25

Shoot to Win Get to know some of the industry’s top photographers, and learn what it takes to capture that perfect shot.

BY LEEN BLAIBLEH AND LAUREN FARRUGIA

Ara Sassoonian Montreal Facial expressions, dramatic moods and geometric lines are some of the most crucial elements to capture, according to Ara Sassoonian. This Montreal-based photographer who’s shot multiple Contessa collections, is a fan of avant-garde photography since he says it intertwines the present with the future.

Line Work “I like the models to have a lot of expression and attitude on their faces,” he says. “When I shoot any collection, I like to focus on the angles of the face, including the chin, cheeks and jawlines, and create a dramatic effect with the lighting.”

Along with focusing attention on the face, Sassoonian is constantly looking for straight lines and geometric shapes when shooting. “I’m very visual when it comes to photography,” he says. “I naturally always check how the hair looks on camera first, and then I look for ways to highlight that even more by adding glitch effects and geometric lines to my photos.”

Sassoonian started shooting for the Contessas in 2008, when hairstylists began approaching him about photographing their collections. “My vision and style have always been to bring out what the hairstylist is trying to highlight in their work,” he says, adding that while he finds it rewarding when his clients move forward at the Contessa Awards, his favourite aspect of the process is building a collection. “I like when the client discusses a concept they have in mind and we work together to 26 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

improve and materialize it by putting our inputs together.”

Communication and problem-solving between the photographer and the entire team (not just the hairstylist) are key. “A lot of things can change during a shoot because things look different on camera,” he says. “It’s very important to have open lines of communication.”

Oftentimes, he’ll make suggestions about what changes can be made to the hair to make it stand out more on camera.

“Sometimes that can take hours, other times it’s as quick as taking three shots,” he says. “The whole team should be

focused on the hair because that’s where it all starts from; that’s the focal point.

All other decisions are made based on the hair.”

He adds that participating in photo shoots and hair competitions can help photographers (and stylists) build and promote their brand. “It helps the whole team network with other creatives in the industry,” he says. “It can also help the business of the salon and promote the photographer’s brand, which will increase the chances of working with new clients.”

Fun Fact Prior to photography, Ara Sassoonian worked as a hairstylist for more than 15 years. The salon he formerly worked at participated in hair competitions, which encouraged him to do the same.

PHOTOS: ARA SASSONIAN, NATASHA GERSCHON, ALAIN COMTOIS

@ara_sassoonian

Natasha Gerschon Toronto @natashagerschon

Style is ever-changing for photographer Natasha Gerschon. Although she says she doesn’t have a particular style for her photography, she finds a part of herself in every collection she works on.

“I think I go through different phases and my style is always changing,” she says. “Regardless of the output, I know that anything I do is a part of me.”

Ethereal Expression The Toronto-based photographer describes her style as evolving as she’s not a fan of limiting herself to a specific style. “I work however I feel and that’s in all different sorts of lighting and lenses,” says Gerschon. “Sometimes my work is a little more punchy, other times it’s very colourful and bright, so there isn’t a particular style that I go for. I work however I feel and that’s in all different sorts of lighting and lenses. I will say that people often describe my work as ethereal.”

While editing, Gerschon says she’s experienced technical difficulties in the past that have inspired her to purposely

Hairstylist, Gerschon acknowledges that working with brands, such as Revlon Professional, introduced her to the beauty industry and helped get her to where is she now. “It opened my eyes to the world of not just hair but also hair competitions like the Contessas,” she says. “Revlon was a huge motivator in getting me involved in the beauty world.”

Looking back at her first Contessa shoot, Gerschon believes that the process had a domino effect after her clients won Avant Garde Hairstylist in 2014. “My first Contessa clients were Amanda Rendell and Tarran Chesney from Taz Hair Co., and they trusted me completely,” she says. “It was pretty cool because I was involved in pre-production, building a mood for the shoot and retouching.”

According to Gerschon, participating in competitions can often help stylists (and photographers) build their business and promote their brand. “I’ve had clients who went from no one knowing who they were to being globally known and becoming ambassadors for different brands,” she says. “I think competitions are a powerful method for getting stylists and photographers recognized.

It just depends on how you use it to your advantage.”

alter her photo with lines and glitchtype effects. “There isn’t a specific process but it’s just me understanding what certain tools do and how I can manipulate images digitally,” she says.

“It’s interesting to see how altering an image can sometimes make it look a little distorted.”

Crafting a Collection Having photographed several Contessawinning collections, including the 2022 Alberta Hairstylist and 2021 Multicultural

Alain Comtois Montreal A Montreal-based photographer with his own studio, Alain Comtois prides himself on always trying to respect his clients’ vision while simultaneously bringing his own personal touch to every photo.

Pure Bliss When Comtois shoots for his clients, he thrives off of the “artistic and creative contribution that’s developed throughout the process of putting a collection together and photographing the images.”

Over the years Comtois has worked with many hairstylists on their collections and started his Contessa work when collaborating with Guylaine Martel on her first Contessa collection. Comtois has continued to work with Quebecbased hairstylists, including Marie-Josée Dupuis and Jean-Sébastien Chalut, both of whom have won Contessas.

When one of his clients win, it’s like “nirvana” to him and he says he feels that it also gives him some recognition and a level of notoriety.

Why Enter?

Comtois finds that stylists often come to him with questions about why they should enter the Contessas, and his response is always the same. “It depends on the kind of career you want to have,” he says. “If you’re happy working behind the chair making money, that’s fine.

However, if one day you want to work on-stage in Canada or around the world, competitions become almost essential.”

Comtois adds that you don’t always have to win competitions for them to make a difference in your career. “When you enter the Contessas, whether you’re a winner or even a finalist, you get to share your work with the industry and meet people from a lot of different brands, which allows you to get your name out there and possibly expand your business.” ➤

A photo from Jesse Ervin’s 2022 Alberta Hairstylist of the Year winning entry, photographed by Natasha Gerschon! salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 27

Giancarlo Intini Toronto

Paula Tizzard London, Ont.

@giancarlointini

@paulatizzard.hair.beauty When it comes to hair photography, it’s all about the details for this Ontario-based photographer.

Starting Small With 15 years of experience working on Contessa collections, Intini has developed a keen eye and deep knowledge that he enjoys sharing with stylists and beauty pros alike. “I decided to pick up a camera and start shooting because I had the experience of working one-on-one with salons,” he says.

“I wanted to take that to the next level so I decided to take photos and help guide stylists in light of all the experience I had.”

Now, Intini also teaches a class about photo shoots and entering competitions. “I would say the most important thing is to start slow,” he says. “If you start with one model for your first shoot, I think that’s great!

Take baby steps because when you try to do too much at once, sometimes it can become overwhelming.”

Another rule of thumb for Intini when he’s shooting is to try to showcase five important aspects within each photo.

“My focus is on cut, colour, style, texture and shape. Those five things have been my motto for years, and if there’s something in each of those five aspects that are represented as much as possible in the photo, the chances of it being successful and beautiful are much greater.”

Did you know? Giancarlo Intini has photographed the winning images for the Contessa Freestyle category (including Stephanie Schewe’s 2021 entry) for the past two years in a row! “I look for an image that will make as many people as possible happy,” he says. “The key is to imagine what the most amount of people will appreciate versus just a specific few.”

Fun Fact He won a Contessa in 2003 for Makeup Artist of the Year!

Full Focus Through his years of experience in shooting Contessa collections, Giancarlo Intini shares his top three tips that he believes stylists should keep in mind: Assistance “Whether it be to help wash hair, put in rollers or to hold cans of hairspray, you need people helping you. It’s so easy to get overwhelmed and let time get away from you, so having people around to help is important.”

Good Hospitality “Having good, healthy food and drinks for everyone on set is key. Make sure everyone is staying hydrated and that there’s food in case anyone needs it. Have options for everyone, that way everyone will feel like they’re important when they’re on set.”

Clear Plan “Your schedule should be planned down to the minute. If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.”

28 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Contessa Veteran With more than 25 years of professional experience, photographer Paula Tizzard has been shooting for the Contessas since nearly its inception. Tizzard was still a photography student when she was asked to shoot for Contessawinning hairstylist Reynaldo Sopoco in 2001. Since then, she’s been regularly shooting for the Contessas, including with 2022 Elite Master Hairstylist and Ontario Hairstylist, Julie Vriesinga!

“The Contessa process is so fun! It gives stylists a chance to step out from behind the chair and explore their creative sides,” she says. “I think the Contessas have been pivotal in shaping the world of hairstyling today.”

Although Tizzard says she doesn’t have a competitive nature, she finds it rewarding whenever one (or more) of her clients win. “The recognition that goes along with being up there with other photographers and stylists that I’ve admired for years is worth more than the win,” she says. “I always tell new clients that I can’t promise they’ll win, but I can promise that their work will be recognized.”

Tips for Success Tizzard has seen a lot of her clients go from shooting collections and competing to working with major brands. “The Contessas are so important to stylists who are looking for a little more than just working behind the chair,” she says. “It’s definitely a game changer when a salon or hairstylist wins a Contessa. Clients love having a winner or published hairstylist do their hair!”

When planning a photo shoot, Tizzard encourages stylists to start with a lot of conversation and inspiration. “Have a solid plan going in and expect it to sometimes morph into something else once it starts to come together,” she says. “Perfect your skill and make it shine. Do a trial run at the salon before shoot day. It can eliminate so much stress.”

PHOTOS: GIANCARLO INTINI, PAULA TIZZARD, KALE FRIESEN, BABAK

Giancarlo Intini can be considered a jack of all trades. Not only has he photographed Contessa award-winning collections— including the 2022 Canadian Salon Team of the Year—he’s also a renowned makeup artist and wardrobe stylist.

Kale Friesen Calabasas, California @kalejfstudio

Kale Friesen is a selftaught photographer who learned his craft by getting inspired by other people’s work and tapping into his interest in illustration and painting. “I would say my style is very personal,” he says. “My goal is always to see something beautiful in everything and everybody.

Taking pictures is very personal for me.

When I’m looking at a place or person, I’m trying to capture something I find interesting or beautiful about them.”

First of Many Friesen shot his very first Contessa collection for his wife, Alina, who was one of the youngest stylists to win Canadian Hairstylist of the Year in 2011.

Since then, he’s shot with many other hairstylists, including multi-Contessa winner Michelle Pargee, and 2022 British Columbia Hairstylist, Simon James. “I met Michelle after I’d been shooting for my wife and it snowballed from there to working with all the best hairdressers in and around Vancouver.”

Babak Toronto @photobabak

According to long-time Contessa photographer Babak, less is more when it comes to shooting hair. He says his approach to taking simple photos is to ensure they stand the test of time.

“As the photographer, you’re telling a story in the photos you take,” he says.

“In my experience, keeping it simple is the way to go. This will also ensure that the hair remains the focal point of the photo.”

Beauty in Simplicity Growing up, Babak was introduced to photography as a way of building memories. His interest in hair, fashion and photography started to develop when he met renowned hairstylist Michael Volpe. “I had a good understanding of photography and people, but Michael introduced me to the industry and competitions like the Contessa Awards,”

Creative Expression Friesen says he’s always viewed competitions as a great platform for stylists. “Competitions are such a different experience than being in the salon,” he says.

“It’s the chance to really open up, be creative and do things that you don’t do on a daily basis behind the chair.”

“The stylists I’ve worked with have become really good friends of mine,” he adds. “The Contessas are full of emotion; you get tears and you get laughter. It’s this joyous time to come together and create really cool things. I love it!”

Throughout all his experience, Friesen says he’s developed a system for success.

“After the stylist has contacted me, I’ll do a consultation to get an understanding of what category they’re entering to give me an idea of where we’re heading,” he says. “Then, I will ask for inspiration images, which we make our own. We figure out what colours, lengths and textures they’re working with and go from there to make it all cohesive. I want to give the stylist all of my knowledge so they can focus on the hair.”

says Babak. “It’s exciting because you can create art that you like without worrying about doing it a certain way and following the rules of society.”

Babak has photographed many Contessa collections throughout his career, including for Michelle Nahmad from Blushes in Ottawa, who won Emerging Hairstylist at the 2021 Contessas.

“You get to meet a lot of artists who are very passionate about hair and what they do,” says Babak. “I find it particularly special whenever a small-town hairstylist or salon owner wins a Contessa.”

When working with his clients, Babak spends hours on the phone with them to discuss any ideas they may have. “I do a lot of consultations before a shoot and the process is different for every client,” he says. “I’ve found that communicating and explaining your point of view to the client can help them understand where you’re coming from and why you’re making certain decisions. Being passionate is great but you also need someone who understands how hair looks in a photo to guide you.” ➤

Kale Friesen’s Top Tips for Photo Shoots

* * * * *

Play to your strengths: we all have them, so use them to your advantage.

Look outside of hairdressing for inspiration: There are so many things to be inspired by. When you look outside of hair, that’s when you’re really going to change the industry.

Ask for help. Seek out people you look up to and find others who can help with the things you aren’t sure about.

Overcomplicating the process can make taking a great picture much more difficult. You have to understand the essence of what you’re trying to say with the collection and distill it down to its basic elements.

Seek a photographer that wants to work with you and not one who wants to push you in a direction that’s not yours.

“I ALWAYS TELL MY CLIENTS THAT I CAN’T PROMISE THEM A WINNING SHOT BUT I CAN PROMISE THEM A SHOT THEY’LL LOVE FOREVER.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 29

Denis Duquette Moncton, N.B. @denisduquette

As a well-travelled photographer with a deep love for his small town, Denis Duquette refers to himself as a 6’7” gentle giant who loves people, faces and photography.

Working mainly out of Atlantic Canada, he travels frequently between Toronto and the Maritimes for work.

Edmonton

@morgan.gold Morgan Gold is a self-taught photographer who’s passionate about hair and beauty. Working on Contessa collections for several years now, he believes in finding a specific vision and letting that guide you throughout a shoot.

Good Vibes While Duquette thinks competitions are great for hairstylists, he says they’re inspirational for him, as well. “I love the creativity, energy and collaboration that comes with creating collections. Everyone is so focused on trying to create something incredible,” he says. “The energy on set is incomparable.”

As for how involved Duquette is when it comes to helping stylists with their collections, it all depends on the individual. “I’m as involved or not as involved as the stylist wants me to be,” he says. “I will help with model selection, styles, makeup, and basically every aspect of the shoot and the preparation if the stylist wants me to. It’s all about working with the stylist so it can be as stressfree for them as possible.”

“IT’S SO COOL AND REWARDING WHEN YOU SEE A STYLIST WIN. I’M SO HAPPY FOR THEM BECAUSE I KNOW THEY PUT SO MUCH TIME AND WORK INTO [THEIR ENTRY].”

30 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

All About Collaboration Gold is a strong believer in working collaboratively to execute a vision, and in allowing everyone’s perspective to shine when working with hairstylists.

His introduction to the Contessas was through Michelle Oliver, a multiContessa winner based in Edmonton.

“Working with Michelle wasn’t like working with other clients,” says Gold.

“She’s very meticulous. Even amongst hairstylists, she’s extremely specific and knows exactly what she wants, which is a wonderful thing to have.”

Having a strong sense of direction is extremely beneficial when it comes to how the end product turns out. “My job is to support an idea, so it’s such a relief when a hairstylist is focused and detailed,” says Gold. “This type of outlook ensures that I’m not wondering and trying to see what works or what doesn’t. When everything is planned and has been looked over by multiple people, then I can focus on shooting without it being stressful.”

When partnering with clients on a Contessa shoot, Gold starts by having a conversation with the hairstylist about what they’re trying to achieve to establish an overall theme. “I take those general ideas and start bouncing back some kind of visual references,” says Gold, adding that coming up with a central idea is his go-to shoot tip. “Let that be the north star that guides you through the whole process. Always come back to that idea and make decisions based on it so everything will end up looking cohesive.”

PHOTOS: DENIS DUQUETTE, MORGAN GOLD

Small Town, Big Dreams Duquette entered the world of the Contessas nearly 10 years ago when he was introduced to it by Melissa Duguay, a Joico platform artist and two-time Contessa winner for Atlantic Hairstylist of the Year. Since then, Duquette has photographed many Contessa collections and has worked with numerous makeup artists and hairstylists, including Heidi Fleming, Heidi Kenney and Chelsea Sutherland, who won 2022 Atlantic Hairstylist of the Year.

Although Duquette admits his geographical location is smaller, he doesn’t let it stop him. “I’ve been doing this for a long time now and I understand the market,” he says. “I think there’s a lot of opportunity for me out here and I’ve been fortunate to able to work with so many talented people.”

Regardless of where they’re based, Duquette has seen firsthand what competitions can do for hairstylists and their careers. “I think the main thing that stylists need to think about and realize is, this is a big industry,” he says. “There are a lot of other people who do what they do, and competitions allow stylists to showcase what they can do differently.”

Morgan Gold

We help you narrow the search.

PRODUC T GUIDE

spg. salonmagazine.c a Search by product category or keyword.

Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors.

DISCOVER MORE– RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS BU I L D A R E WA R DI NG CA R E E R GE T T H E L AT E ST I N DUST RY N E WS S E E ST U N N I NG C OL L E C T ION S FIND THE T E CH N ICA L A DV ICE YOU CR AV E

salonmagazine.ca SalonMag Salon_Magazine salonmagazine SalonMagazine

1 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

PHOTO: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: MARÍA TERESA CAZALLA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: CRISTINA ANGUITA, PHOTO: LOLA PIMENTEL

BACK TO BRIDAL

After two years of cancelled and postponed weddings, 2022 is officially the year of the bride! We checked in with editorial and bridal hair experts for their trend forecasts and tips for helping clients get creative with their wedding day looks this season.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

As any bride can attest, planning and managing a wedding is highly stressful under the best of circumstances. Add COVID-19 pandemic closures and lockdowns to the mix and it’s little wonder that brides (and grooms) have felt a combination of anxiety, stress and pressure about their big day over the past two years.

“Because of what’s been going on with the pandemic, we’re seeing that a lot of weddings are becoming smaller, more intimate events,

that are often held in smaller venues or even at home,” says Jorge Joao, an editorial hairstylist, global Redken artist and owner of Koi Hair Studio in Brampton, Ont. “As for hairstyling, we’re seeing a lot of simplicity and natural texture that’s very scaled back. There’s often one point of interest that’s being highlighted with a little knot or braid.”

For brides who were forced to cancel their weddings or go the DIY route for their hair and beauty, the good news is that 2022 appears to be a comeback year.

“A lot of people have more disposable income now,” says Sharon Blain, renowned educator and Australianbased hairstylist who specializes in bridal, editorial and red-carpet hairstyling.

“They didn’t spend or go out as much during the lockdown, so more people want the opportunity to have their hair done professionally, and not just for weddings, but on a more regular basis. I anticipate that this will mean we’re about to go through an era of dressing hair more in the salon.” ➤ salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 33

Cut

Bridal Boom

While many professionals, including Marc-André Poulin, a hairstylist and Joico guest artist based in Quebec City, have noticed an understandable decline in requests for wedding and other special occasion hair and beauty services, a majority believe this year will be a positive one.

“After two years of delays, brides-to-be now have more time to be ready,” he says.

“They have very clear ideas of what they want and even

higher expectations for their big day.”

When it comes to helping brides settle on their looks for their wedding day, Poulin emphasizes the importance of a thorough consultation.

“A good consultation always begins with understanding the client’s primary needs,” he says.

“What’s the plan for the day and how much time do they have to prepare? Will the ceremony and pictures be outdoors or indoors? I always ask for a photo of the dress

While most brides will have their hair cut and coloured in the weeks leading up to their wedding, Joao says hair is something grooms need to be thinking about in advance, too.

“I’m ideally not cutting it the day of,” he says. “I’ve done it before but I prefer to do so two or three days ahead of the big day because, for example, the outliner could give him a scratch and you just never know.”

As for the types of haircuts and styles the bride and groom will wear, Joao says it’s important to keep the essence of each person intact and

Colour

PRO TIP WHILE JOAO ACKNOWLEDGES THAT SOME CLIENTS MAY HAVE A VERY SPECIFIC STYLE IN MIND, HE’S CAREFUL ABOUT RESPECTING THEIR VISION WHILE ALSO GIVING THEM A REALITY CHECK.

“IT'S UP TO US AS HAIRDRESSERS TO MAKE SURE WE’RE THE ONES WHO ARE INFLUENCING THE TRENDS AND NOT ALLOWING THE RUNWAY TO TAKE CONTROL. I BELIEVE BY JUST CHANGING IT UP A LITTLE BIT AND PUTTING YOUR SLANT OR SIGNATURE ON IT, THE LOOK BECOMES SOMETHING REALLY SPECIAL.” — SHARON BLAIN, BRIDAL AND EDITORIAL HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATOR, AUSTRALIA 34 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

not try experimenting with something that’s too trendy or new.

“Some people want to go all out for their wedding day,” he says. “They’re excited and want to go big and loud, but they often regret their decision when they see photos from the day. My advice is to not take any trend too literally because they come and go. Pick timeless looks with a flair of what’s happening now.”

“I personally never like to veer off completely or give clients something new on their wedding day because it’s often not ‘them,’’ adds Joao.

“You don’t want the look you create to be a completely different version of who they actually are.”

While multidimensional colour and shine continue to be popular amongst brides— whether it’s achieved with balayage, foilayage or just a glossing service—Poulin says creating the ideal look for each client really depends on the bride’s personality.

“Some of them want to stay

Textured Tresses Here are the factors to consider for brides with textured hair.

“Less is more. You want to be gentle; use fingertips and wide-tooth combs. Avoid any fine combs or tight brushes because the tighter the tools, the more they will expand and blast out the curls. You want to keep the curls intact and defined while working with the natural movement of the hair.” — Jorge Joao “Textured hair is often lacking moisture.

You want to saturate it and then apply a gel and cream together. For example, try a strong-hold gel and moisture cream, and work it through the hair while it’s wet.

Run a large wide-toothed comb through the hair and you’ll see it separate and curls will form. Diffuse the entire head dry and work the style that way to prep the hair for updos, while keeping the integrity of those beautiful ringlet curls for clients who want to maintain their natural texture for their wedding day.” — Sharon Blain

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, PHONE USER BY RD DESIGN FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, HAIR: GONZALO ZARAUZA, CENTRO BETA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: WILD VAN DIJK, WARDROBE STYLING: VISORI FASHIONART, PHOTOS: ESTEBAN ROCA, FACE HOLE BY BRAD AVISON FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

to help me to identify the personality of my client.”

Nailing It For 2022 bridal nail trends, Jessica Goguen, a nail artist and CND education ambassador based in the Maritimes, says she anticipates a transition back to minimalistic, natural-looking nails.

“I’m seeing clients choose a more casual ‘no-stress’ approach,” she says. “They’re looking for simplicity rather than extremely complex finishes, and there’s been a marked return to solid colours over nail art or embellishments. For instance, I’m seeing softer shapes, such as round and oval, along with wearable lengths and simple design elements and decorations.

These trends are very relevant for bridal nails because they add beauty, elegance and the ultimate fashion accessory to the real showstopper: The bride!”

When building business with bridal nails, Goguen says nail extensions and gel services are the way to go. “My top-earning service is gel nails, which is why I recommend this service over and over again for maximum strength and durability over polish nails.

Of course, the more excited you are about the services you provide and love to do, the more your brides will respond, regardless of whether it’s gel or polished nails.”

PRO TIP WHEN CONSIDERING A BRIDAL STYLE— AND ESPECIALLY AN UPDO—JOAO RECOMMENDS CONSIDERING YOUR CLIENT’S FACE SHAPE AND HAIR TEXTURE. “IF I WANT TO LENGTHEN THE FACE, I’M GOING TO TIE UP THE SIDES. IF I’M CREATING A ROUNDER SHAPE, I WILL DO SOMETHING WITH MORE DRAPING ON THE SIDES THAT’S A LITTLE BIT SOFTER.”

subtle with fine highlights, tone-on-tones or simply keep their natural colour with more gloss,” he says. “On the other hand, some want colour that’s more intense with a large blonde money piece around the face, flamboyant coppers and flashier colours.”

“No matter the hair colour, I prefer creating lighting effects to frame the face,” adds Poulin. “I like subtlety in hair colour to stay in harmony with the dress, which is normally my starting point for inspiration.”

Style

While more undone, naturallooking styles like beachy waves are still popular, Blain cautions that looks that are too lived-in may not have the oomph brides are after.

“The one big problem is the longevity of these styles,” she says. “It appears that more brides are wearing their hair down, so the opportunity for those waves to fall and not last through the duration of the wedding for most hair types is likely. Only a few hair types can sustain that style for a number of hours. While

it’s beautiful, it requires more of a discussion with the bride on how long they expect to have their hair look like that.

Are they okay with getting down the aisle and having it look great for just a few photos? Because after that it’s not going to happen.”

According to Blain, part of the problem is with the types of styling tools hairstylists use to create this type of look.

For example: using a flat iron instead of a curling iron.

“Learning to master and use [curling irons] is absolutely essential for any person who’s contemplating doing any sort of dressed hair,” she says. “The results are so much more professional looking. You also need to consider the environment that you’re creating the hairstyle for and whether it’s humid, cold weather or wet weather.

Whatever the situation, I don’t think you can pass on using a single barrel [curling iron]. It’s how you use that and how you swing it into the styles we’re seeing now.”

Another style that’s trending for brides this year is the half-up/half-down look, which can be a nice twist for a client who’s used to wearing their hair down all the time but wants something with more flair for their big day.

“We’re seeing a fair bit of this look with a beautiful, polished wave,” says Blain, adding that it works well with accessories, which are another big draw for brides.

“It’s really nice to see because you can accessorize this simple hairstyle so it becomes special with headbands, scarves and little clips.”

“Accessories are a big thing because they quickly add a wow factor,” says Joao. “Anything can be an accessory. I’ve seen people use their jewelry, fabric that’s part of their dress and even bobby pins that are placed creatively in the hair. It used to be that you’d see wedding ➤

“KEEP IN MIND THAT TRENDS ARE MEANT TO PASS AND CHANGE, WHILE THE PICTURES FROM THIS DAY WILL REMAIN FOR ETERNITY. WE WANT OUR CLIENTS TO LOOK AT THEIR PICTURES AND STILL LOVE THEM FIVE, 20 OR 50 YEARS LATER.” — MARC-ANDRÉ POULIN, HAIRSTYLIST AND JOICO GUEST ARTIST, QUEBEC CITY

salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 35

Business Builder Sharon Blain and Jorge Joao share their tips for increasing revenue in the salon with bridal and special occasion hair services.

PRO TIP CONSIDER LIGHTWEIGHT PRODUCTS TO PREVENT BUILDUP AND TRY USING WORKABLE SPRAYS FOR BRIDAL HAIR. USE HAIRSPRAY AS MORE OF A FINISHING SPRAY TO AVOID A STICKYLOOKING RESIDUE, WHICH CAN BE PICKED UP BY CAMERA FLASHES.

accessories that were white or had pearls incorporated, but now there’s a focus on meshing different textures and finishes a bit more.”

While it appears that more brides are moving away from the larger, overly structured updos, there are ways to achieve an elegant updo while still keeping it simple. “For these types of styles, we’re seeing more natural, gathered hair,” says Joao. “It’s as if I grabbed it all, put it up in a half-twist and pinned it. It’s not really a bun; it’s almost like bedroom hair.”

“I don’t think we’re going back to the traditional, classic chignon,” adds Blain. “In saying that, when you have those couture ball gowns, that’s the sort of look that goes beautifully with it—a big, classic, polished shape on the back of the head or crown. When the dress is lacy or beaded with cut-outs, it seems to be slightly more casual and feminine, so looser feminine looks work well with those.”

While accessories can also work for updos, Poulin says it’s important to not overdo it. “Accessories can be a 36 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

great way to make a subtle hairstyle more original and add personality to a classic look,” he says. “Whether it’s a veil, tiara, brooch or crystal pins, remember that an overloaded updo can become heavy and very uncomfortable for the bride.”

To achieve a long-lasting gathered style, Joao says it all comes down to prep work.

“That’s the part that a lot of people don’t think about,” he says. “The two main things I ask myself before I start my look are: what are the roots doing and what fabric do I need the hair to feel like?

If you set the hair up with the root direction and the fabric that you need it to be, you’re 80 per cent closer to your end result and the rest of it comes easy. The hair is going to comb, brush and direct where you need it to go. Any tool you use is going to adapt, hold and cooperate a lot easier and with only a quarter of the bobby pins!

If the fabric is set up, the stress is down to a minimum and things are cooperating because you have that grit and foundation.”

EXTEND YOUR STYLES

2

3

Whether it’s for length, volume or even colour, extensions can be an easy way to enhance just about any bridal hair look.

Great Lengths Rooted Shades Available in three lengths (tape-ins or pre-bonded), these extensions include a total of 10 shades and offer a range of natural-looking tones ranging from soft to high contrast.

Hairtalk Hairband Increase volume and length instantly with this weft of 100 per cent Remy human hair. Hand-sewn into a stretchable headband, it fits all head shapes and sizes, and is available in natural, blended, blonde and colour-melted shades.

FULL SERVICE “When dressing hair, it’s really important to offer a blow-dry service, as well as a quick updo service. Teach your staff five different blow-dry styles, such as half-up/half-down, textured ponytail, cute bun on the nape, bun on the crown and Hollywood waves so they can offer them to clients. Help them work on the looks you think are most current and in-demand and then perfect them. Once that happens, start promoting the styles on Instagram.”— Sharon Blain HAVE A GAME PLAN “Create a menu and look-book with pictures of different styles with price listings and add-ons for hairpieces and extensions. Have options prepared and consider offering additional items, like a breakfast package. While bridal hair is a large amount of work for hairstylists, it may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for clients, so offer little things to enhance their experience.” — Jorge Joao BE ON TIME “[For special occasion hair services], set a short time frame (eg. half an hour) with not a lot of prep. You may want to ask clients to wash and blow-dry hair before they arrive so you’re not eating into your time and can be solely focused on dressing the hair. Quick-service styling can have a massive impact on your bottom line and generate some business for your newer stylists. I really believe people will pay for the service so you’ll need to charge accordingly.”

— Sharon Blain

4

SPEAK UP “Ask the right questions about the time, location, how many people you’ll be styling, etc. Ask bridesmaids to send inspirational photos so you can assign them to the right hairdresser. Ask questions they may not have thought to ask, and do as much as you can to take weight off the bride and the team.

It’s a stressful day, so knowing you’re coming in prepared makes it far more comfortable.” — Jorge Joao

5

DOUBLE UP “We’re seeing a lot more double hairstyles for brides now, which means they’re wearing one for down the aisle and a second for the wedding reception.

Most people were pretty much doing staycations [during the lockdown] but are now spending more money on having their hair done, so it’s great for salons and is worth capitalizing on.”

— Sharon Blain

PHOTOS: HAIR: GONZALO ZARAUZA, CENTRO BETA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: WILD VAN DIJK, WARDROBE STYLING: VISORI FASHIONART, PHOTOS: ESTEBAN ROCA, SPRAY CAN BY MR. MINUVI FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

1

CO LLE CTIO NS

April

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 37

Collections — ICY BLONDE

Taking inspiration from each model’s beauty and character, this Australian collection features a striking palette of tonal blonde hairstyles that range from short textured cuts to long free-flowing styles.

HAIR Elle Schoemaker, Cobelle Creative, Australia COLOUR Kristie Kesic MAKEUP Gemma Elaine WARDROBE STYLING Tamzen Holland PHOTOS Georgia Wallace

38 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 39

Collections — PLAYFUL PALETTE

This Contessafinalist collection captivates with its sharp lines and styles that are brought to life with warm tones and a variety of hair textures.

40 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST, Martin Crean, Mode Salon, Campden, U.K. MAKEUP Roseanna Velin WARDROBE STYLING Magdalena Jacobs PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 41

Collections — ÚNICA MY ESSENCE

With an expansive range of bridal styles, this Spanish collection features romantic twists and sophisticated updos that inspire hairstylists to customize and create unique looks for every bride.

HAIR Gonzalo Zarauza, Centro Beta, Spain MAKEUP Wild Van Dijk WARDROBE STYLING Visori FashionArt PHOTOS Esteban Roca

42 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 43

Collections — SLEEK AND CHIC

Elegant, weddingready coifs are showcased in this stunning NAHA-winning session collection.

44 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

HAIR Danielle Keasling, Hair Biz and Beyond, Hilton Head Island, SC MAKEUP Abigail Wilson and Josie Jones PHOTOS Zoe Christina Welsh salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 45

Collections — ESSENTIAL LOOKS SPRING/SUMMER 2022

Varying cuts, lengths, styles and textures are brought to life in Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest Essential Looks collection that features three key trends— Wanderlust, Crafted Soul and Tough Icon—that merge runway inspiration with salon-ready techniques.

The result? A combination of lived-in, shattered textures with earthy hues and bold blocks of colours.

HAIR Tyler Johnston, Lesley Jennison, Arjan Bevers and Nick Irwin MAKEUP Helge Branscheidt WARDROBE STYLING Tim Tobias Zimmermann PHOTOS Simon Emmett

46 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 47

Collections — BOLT

In the latest collection by Goldwell’s global ambassador Angelo Seminara, a contrasting compilation of vibrant, neon shades are brought to life with his signature Zed technique that unites shape, form, colour and texture for a range of statement-making styles.

HAIR Angelo Seminara for Goldwell MAKEUP Daniel Kolaric PHOTOS Txema Yeste

48 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 49

Collections — MAKING WAVES

This Contessafinalist collection includes textured curls and defined waves that are showcased with a fun pop of colour.

50 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST,

Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont. MAKEUP Rejeanne Maurice PHOTOS Giancarlo Intini salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 51

PRESENTED BY

#ContessaAwards

#Contessa2023

THE COUNTDOWN

IS ON!

ENTRY DEADLINE SEPTEMBER 8, 2022 GALA NOVEMBER 20, 2022 Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre, Toronto NEW RULE CHANGES! FIND OUT MORE AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

Whether it’s from his travels, visits to museums, or by paintings or modern art, hairstylist Ken Hung documents everything he’s inspired by.

Being creative is what led him to become a hairstylist. “I wanted a fun work environment; I’m not the type of person who likes to work behind a desk,” he says. “I like to try new things and the hair industry was great for that.”

When starting his career, Hung decided to become an apprentice at a local hair salon because of what it had to offer him. “I wanted to get more handson, real experience and I wanted to work with people every day,” he says. “I also took a lot of classes because I was always eager to learn as much as I could.

Education is still a big part of my career today. I love to keep learning.”

54 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Jack of All Trades Hung was a finalist at the 2022 Contessa Awards in the British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year category. He says he wanted to create a collection with a little bit of everything, so he decided to combine colour with all sorts of textures and styles—from fishtail and fourfinger braiding to buns, updos and other shapes. “This collection was inspired by an avant-garde feel with a mix of urban trends,” he says, adding that he wanted to have one look with a stronger focus on colour.

“We wanted to create that beautiful shape to make the colour look like it was expanding. I remember when I saw the image, I thought to myself, ‘Wow, this is beautiful!’”

TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA; PHOTO: HAIR: KEN HUNG, SALON ERA, RICHMOND, B.C., MAKEUP: MARIA LI, WARDROBE STYLING: SIRENA SHONUCK, PHOTO: BABAK

Contessa Gallery — 2022 FINALIST

Ken Hung

Outside the Box Hung believes competitions help stylists excel in their careers and grow their business because they help push limits and encourage growth in the craft.

“Competing helps you improve your techniques and explore new things. It helps you improve your skills in every way and allows you to do even more than being behind the chair.”

He says getting inspired by other finalists’ work is another way to push yourself outside of your comfort zone.

“Competitions are really important because I’ve met a lot of friends through them,” says Hung. “It allows you to get to know other people in the industry and build relationships, which is great.”

“It takes a lot of hard work to create collections,” he adds. “The process is very difficult and can be stressful, but it can help you get better and help you explore yourself. I always discover new things about myself when I enter competitions.”

For anyone who’s looking to enter competitions for the first time, Hung encourages them to just go for it. “Don’t overthink it; just do it. Do something that you’re good at and study for it,” he recommends. “It’s just like any new hobby; when trying something new you have to get some basic training first.

Practice makes perfect.”

“When I work in the salon, I do things that the client wants, so participating in competitions is my playground.”

salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 55

Profile – ANA SORYS

Northern Pride Editorial hairstylist Ana Sorys has worked with award-winning actors and actresses, including the cast of Schitt’s Creek. Find out how this Toronto-based stylist got her start in the industry and how she’s perfected the art of transformation— no matter who she’s working with.

BY LEEN BLAIBLEH

I understand you started in the beauty industry as a makeup artist.

Why did you decide to start pursuing hair as a career?

I’ve been a makeup artist for about 25 years. When SARS hit, there wasn’t a lot of work or films happening in Toronto, so I thought not everybody needs a makeup artist during hard times but everybody needs their hair done. I went to college for nine months and got my hairdressing license. I added hair to my repertoire and began doing both.

I think of hair and makeup as a marriage. They’re two different entities but you can’t have one without the other. As in any good marriage, they complement each other, so it was a natural progression; I’ve always been into doing other people’s hair and interested in the colour aspect. When you’re doing someone’s makeup, you’re working with their face structure and shape, and hair is no different.

You’ve worked on several TV and film projects. What do you most enjoy about it?

I enjoy working with character development. When I’m on a film set, I’m usually reading a script and creating the look for a character. When I meet with the actor, we work together to create that look—whether it’s with a wig or their own hair. I also love seeing 56 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

their face and reaction once that look is created and is taken to the screen.

Most recently, I worked with Eugene Levy on a Super Bowl commercial where he transformed into this really handsome driver with long hair, looking like Fabio. I got to create and style this wig for him and as soon as he put it on, he was so happy with it and just got right into character.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

I get inspired by the past and looking at other artists’ work, but I think I mainly get inspired from the actual artists that I’m working with; having them trust me to think outside the box and create something different and unique to them.

So I think it’s mostly who I’m working with that inspires me in the moment.

Tell us about your experience working with the Schitt’s Creek cast.

What did you most enjoy about working with them?

Each of them had a different look: Eugene’s hair was very clean and coiffed, and that was the men’s haircut we were going for. Annie’s hair was sexier and Valley girl with loose waves, a lot of movement and different styles that she liked to explore. Catherine’s look involved wigs, which are completely different than working with natural hair!

So I got the best of both worlds in the

Ana Sorys captures actress Catherine O'Hara in one of the many wigs created for Moira Rose, a character well-known for her eccentric style and extravagant wigs, in the award-winning tv show Schitt's Creek!

sense that I worked with men’s hair, glam hair and wigs all on the same show, which is a dream.

You also have more than 20 years of experience working with bridal hair and makeup. What’s that like and how does it differ from your other work?

I love doing updos; I find it to be a meditative process for me. I love doing weddings and working with brides because it’s probably the day that somebody wants to feel their most beautiful, stylish and memorable. I work with brides to come up with a look that’s going to reflect that day for them.

➣

What should hairstylists keep in mind when working with brides for their wedding day? Any tips?

I always ask brides what time they’re getting married, because depending on how long they’re waiting or even if it’s a hot day and they want to wear their hair down, that has to be taken into consideration. Some hairstyles won’t last for eight or nine hours.

I also ask about the neckline of the dress and the earrings the bride is wearing because they’ll dictate the type of hairstyle they get. Not every hairstyle is going to look great with a certain neckline or earrings and those things are most important to me.

In terms of dealing with the pressure of creating a hairstyle for brides, I like to ask for reference pictures of hairstyles.

I wouldn’t be afraid to ask as many questions about the look and the day as possible. I also recommend giving yourself enough time to be confident in creating that look. I think one of the most important things is being in a separate room with my clients during the wedding so that you’re not distracted by other people.

PHOTOS: ANA SORYS

You were also a judge for the Contessa Awards last year. What did you most enjoy about it?

I was honoured to be asked to be a judge for the Contessa Awards! I was surprised by the amount of categories there were and how many artists were involved. It was visually stimulating and inspiring!

What advice would you give to your younger self or to a new hairstylist?

Continue to create and think outside the box, and make sure you love what you’re doing. I think that’s very important in order to do a job well. salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 57

With increasing costs, supply chain issues and inflation rates brought about by the pandemic, we spoke with business experts for their advice on how to best manage your salon’s finances. From raising your prices to planning your inventory, here are their top tips.

It goes without saying that the past two years have taken their toll on salon owners. Whether because of extended lockdowns, restrictions, or delays caused by the global supply chain issues, many owners have been forced to take a hard look at their business and make significant changes that they’re continuing to implement today.

“Salon owners need to acknowledge that the landscape has forever changed,” says Maurice Venere, co-owner and creative director at Venere Salon, which has four Ontario-based locations in Oakville, Burloak, Burlington and Milton.

“I believe that the salons that are going to come out of this stronger are the ones that took the time to really be impacted by what’s happened and recognized and isolated their vulnerable points. All of these things are really important in order for us to continue to not only survive but to thrive beyond this.”

58 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Raising Prices

While some owners have been apprehensive about increasing their salon’s prices even before the pandemic hit (with a concern about losing clientele), the lockdowns and rising cost of goods have forced many to take the plunge.

For Venere and his salons, which he co-owns with his two brothers, prices have been increased twice since the beginning of the pandemic, and there’s a commitment to implement regular increases moving forward. “Since 2020, my guesstimate is about an eight per cent total increase,” says Venere. “We’re also making slight additions to pricing on an annual basis; maybe one or two per cent across the board or a couple of dollars here and there. It’s important to stay on top of inflationary costs and additional costs because, if we don’t, we actually start moving in the wrong direction, which of course is not a sustainable business model.”

Like many other salons, Venere Salon also introduced a COVID fee to offset the costs of PPE and other pandemicrelated costs. However for Glenn Baker, vice-president of Salon Resource Group and senior director of consulting at Summit Salon Business Center, he advises against solely relying on the fee to generate extra income.

“We never wanted to go with a COVID charge because, at some point, it means we’re going to have to take it away when the PPE costs decrease or when [the pandemic] is beyond us,” says Baker.

“Most salons are collapsing it into their new pricing structure.”

When thinking about a price increase, it’s important to consider your salon’s

business model. For example, in salons that are multi-level versus a single pricepoint, implementing a price increase can look vastly different.

“We have six to seven different price levels, meaning that when we go in to look at changing prices, we will normally consider some type of overall amount for a price increase that we want to have,” says Baker, adding that the last price increase they implemented was between four to seven per cent on all services. “Our prices for haircuts didn’t go up nearly as much as our pricing for colour services because the cost of the products (colour, treatments, foils, etc.) has increased, which has resulted in a higher price increase for some services. If you’re a single salon owner with one pricing structure, most of the time people will just raise it on average by five per cent.”

When it comes to informing clients of any price changes prior to their next appointment, both experts agree that it’s not as necessary as you may think.

“I’m not a big believer in posting a notice about price increases,” says Baker. “We don’t send an email or anything because, to me, it means you’re sending something that might be a negative in the minds of some consumers. When we decide to increase our prices, we just do it.”

“There’s always a risk involved and even if you’re trying to do the right thing, it’s very easy for a client who would normally come in every eight weeks to say they’re now going to come in every 10 weeks,” says Venere.

“You need to be prepared because there’s going to be an impact one way or the other; either you’re going to be negatively impacted by not doing something or perhaps negatively impacted by doing something.”

Venere recommends looking at ways to add value to your clients’ experience PRO TIP IF SOME CLIENTS EXPRESS A CONCERN ONCE THEY LEARN ABOUT A PRICE INCREASE, CONSIDER HONOURING YOUR OLD PRICE ONE LAST TIME BUT COMMUNICATE THE FACT THAT NEW PRICING STRUCTURE WILL BE IN PLACE MOVING FORWARD.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, PRICE INCREASE BY CONNIE CHAU FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Business —

Financial Check-Up

that will justify the price increase or help them look past it. “A client’s comment on price is always going to be tied to the value that they feel they’re receiving within your environment,” he says. “Look at service options and little details within your salon that might create that additional value and lessen the impact.”

Financially Sound According to Glenn Baker, whose consulting division of Summit Salon Business Center includes more than 100 business coaches that work with more than 500 salons and spas in North America, having a successful business requires four key steps.

1. MAKE A PLAN “Having a concrete sales plan in place is absolutely critical. Do I know for the month of April what I’m trying to accomplish in terms of sales? Do I have a month-to-month sales plan and salon plan for what I need to be doing in service and in retail? It should be based historically; not so much on what happened last year because it’s hard to use early 2021 as an indication, but more of our sales plans have been based on the trend analysis from the last six months of 2021. Use that as a benchmark for 2022.”

2. CASH FLOW PROJECTIONS “Based off of the sales plan, if I know how much I think I’m going to be growing my sales by this year, then I can be planning based on my gross profit margin. Ideally, in our industry, I would love to see the growth profit margin be between 28 and 30 per cent, so this is after I take out all my expenses—labour costs, taxes and benefits, product costs, etc. What I’m left with is 28 to 30 per cent to pay all the other expenses in the company, so having good cash flow projections of where my cash is going on a month-to-month basis is critical for people to know and understand where their business is going to be.”

3. BREAK-EVEN POINT “Understanding where my break-even point is in sales is critical. It’s basically at that point where I’m producing enough revenue to cover the expenses and at least I’m not going into my pocket to keep my business afloat. Am I aware on a daily, weekly and monthly basis of how much I have generate in sales to be able to be at break-even? And what if I was to get beyond that point of profitability; do I know what that number is?”

4. LABOUR HOURS “Do I have enough labour hours and/or people to be able to help me achieve my sales plan?

Based on whatever that sales plan is looking like, do I even have people scheduled to work in the salon this week and this month that will allow me to be able to achieve that particular goal? It becomes very critical.”

PRO TIP AS FOR HOW MUCH AND HOW OFTEN PRICE INCREASES SHOULD HAPPEN, BAKER SUGGESTS A FIVE TO SIX PER CENT INCREASE EVERY NINE TO 12 MONTHS.

“PANDEMIC OR NO PANDEMIC, THERE’S ALWAYS GOING TO BE PEOPLE WHO ARE AFRAID OF RAISING THEIR PRICES BECAUSE THEY WORRY ABOUT LOSING CLIENTS. BUT IF I DON’T RAISE MY PRICES TO KEEP UP WITH INFLATION, MY BIGGEST CONCERN WOULD BE LOSING MY BUSINESS.” — GLENN BAKER, VICE-PRESIDENT OF SALON RESOURCE GROUP AND SENIOR DIRECTOR OF CONSULTING AT SUMMIT SALON BUSINESS CENTER

Managing Inventory

With the global supply chain issues impacting businesses around the world—including salons—it’s created delays with product deliveries resulting in items being out of stock or back ordered for an extended period of time.

“People become overzealous and they just overbuy,” says Baker. “Back orders have been a challenge, but because of the supply chain and not having the normal availability of raw materials and related items, I think what’s happening is that people are running out of product, ordering a three-month supply as a result, and it creates havoc for everybody. We order every single week based on the demands of our business

and it helps us to manage our cash flow better by knowing exactly what we’re going to need.”

“We use our POS system to manage our inventory,” says Venere. “We set up our consumable rates, which we monitor because it’s an important KPI for us when managing our business.

We really need to manage what our consumable expenditures are in relation to what our service revenue is. We need to come up with a percentage that makes sense because, of course, the higher the consumables, the less the profit margin. It’s important to have it automated so you can take a look and, overall, it makes managing inventory certainly a lot easier.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 59

Interiors — LASHGOD

Royal Treatment Escape to this ultra-feminine Torontobased salon that offers all things beauty and so much more.

From offering lash services in her home to opening her first salon in Don Mills in 2019 to now expanding to Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood, LASHGOD owner Raquel DaSilva is the ultimate #girlboss.

The 25-year-old lash technician and entrepreneur founded her company in 2018, which has now grown to include HAIRGOD and NAILGOD, which has enabled her to offer a standout beauty experience to her clientele. “I just felt comfort in knowing that if I invest in my business, it’s always going to grow,” says DaSilva. “Since lashes and esthetics were my specialty, I needed a specialist for each department; it was important to me that I had that before I expanded.”

All In The Family Whether she’s working with family (her cousin who’s previously worked in salons is her business partner for HAIRGOD) or people who she now considers to be family, DaSilva is all about putting people first. “When I’m asked about what the difference is between my business and every other business, it’s all about treating people well,” she says. “I always say that being 60 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

nice and kind, and making people feel welcome, never goes out of style.”

While DaSilva admits that her first location is very different from this one—her Don Mills space has a younger, pop-culture-inspired vibe with Supreme skateboards, ’90s imagery and neon colours—she says her salon’s aesthetic evolved with the growth of her business. “When I bought Don Mills, I was younger and super into pop culture. It’s pink and a different vibe, while here [in Yorkville], we play more of a soft jazz or elevator music. Don Mills is definitely the younger version of us and it reflects in our clientele,” she says.

“We’re actually planning on making Don Mills a pink version of Yorkville; still very fairy tale and romantic, but we definitely need to mature it a little bit.”

Power of Manifestation DaSilva says she’s a big journaler and enjoys writing down her hopes and dreams to bring them to fruition. Case in point: She has the same landlord at both of her Toronto locations, who introduced her to the Yorkville space that’s in a historic mansion once owned by prime minister Mackenzie King’s family. It was also a famous rock ‘n’ roll hangout for The Rolling Stones at one point.

“When I heard about the history, I knew I wanted to add to it; there’s no building or salon I’ve ever been to that’s anything like this,” says DaSilva, adding that she wanted to bring vintage glam to the space. “There's nothing quite like that kind of Old Hollywood—the way you see in movies that people would ➤

PHOTOS: AUSTIN NGUYEN (@MEDIAGODTORONTO)

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 61

➣ In addition to offering beauty services, LASHGOD features a boutique filled with carefully curated fashion, lifestyle and beauty products.

62 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

PHOTOS: AUSTIN NGUYEN (@MEDIAGODTORONTO)

be pampered and so well taken care of. It’s like Gatsby; we wanted it to be romantic and a place where people are treated amazingly well, and where you feel like the star of the show. I feel like if the design aspect was different here it wouldn’t have been all that it is.”

For the design, DaSilva worked with Rosemarie Majetic of Majetic Signature Designs. While she knew the vibe she was going for, she also wanted to give the designer as much creative freedom as possible. “We wanted this to be more mature and more elegant, and she really took us to that next level,” says DaSilva.

“This location took a very long time but working with Rosemarie was the easiest experience ever.”

For the design, gold fixtures and accents were paired with blue to give the location a subtle masculine touch.

“I wanted it to be romantic and Gatsbyesque, but I also wanted it to be blue because I want men from Bay Street to feel like they can come in,” she says. “I think the textured wallpaper just adds a lot of dimension to the space, so we’re going to continue to add artwork but we’re taking our time with it; we want it to all come together perfectly with the right art.”

As for her favourite area in the space, DaSilva says she loves the nail area. “It just makes you feel like a princess and that’s what I wanted,” she says. “I want every person that comes here to feel extraordinary.”

“Eventually, when we have the cafe up and running, I want people to know it’s a place they’re going to be treated really well and respectfully, and it’s a place where people can go to connect socially,” adds DaSilva.

“I'm happy to have two hubs in the city where people can go and actually experience that real-life vibe because everything is online now. We’re grateful for it but post-pandemic, it’ll be nice to have a little getaway and somewhere that’s different where people can go and be themselves.”

OPENED September 2021 SIZE 3,000 square feet STAFF 28 BRANDS Schwarzkopf Dermalogica Make Up For Ever INSTAGRAM @lashgodraq WEBSITE lashgodtoronto.ca

salonmagazine.ca / April 2022 63

Events —

Moroccanoil also announced the launch of their new e-learning app, Color Destination, which features a range of educational resources, including livestreams and quizzes.

Moroccanoil’s Professional Haircolor Collection Launch Event To debut their long-awaited Professional Haircolor Collection, Moroccanoil held an intimate media launch event at their New York-based academy.

| The event also featured Moroccanoil Co-founder Carmen Tal, CEO Jay Elarar and Artistic Director Kevin Hughes, along with brand ambassadors, Greg Gilmore and Jessica Scott Santo (pictured), who provided media and guests with a oneon-one opportunity to experience the colour for themselves.

When & Where: February 23, New York City

64 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

Moroccanoil’s Professional Haircolor collection is a full portfolio of permanent, demi-permanent, high-lifts, colour mixers, lighteners and developers.

PHOTOS: SALON STAFF

| Robert Ham, Vice President of Global Education, and Ursula Anderson, Senior Director of Global Marketing, presented the brand’s latest innovation, which is powered by Arginine + ArganID for better colour penetration that repairs and seals the hair cuticle.

HELP WOMEN WITH HELPING WOMEN WITH HELPING WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE CANCER FEEL LIKE CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN AGAIN THEMSELVES THEMSELVES AGAIN With 11 in in 2 women women facing facing a cancer diagnosis diagnosis in their With With 1 inyou 2 women facing athe cancer diagnosis in lifetime, can the in your through their lifetime, youhelp can helpwomen women inlife your life their lifetime, you can help the women in your the Lookthe Good Feel Better through Look Good Feelworkshop.

Better workshop. life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

Our complimentary complimentaryworkshops workshops help women learn Our help women Our complimentary workshops help women to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer learn to manage the appearance-related impact learn to manage appearance-related impacthair treatment.

Topicsthe include skincare, cosmetics, of cancer treatment.

Topics include skincare, of cancer treatment.

Topics include skincare, alternatives andalternatives breast care. cosmetics, hair and breast care. cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

The small-group format allows forallows connection and Even more, the small-group format for Even more, the sharing small-group format allows sharing between women going through aforsimilar connection and between women going connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience. experience. through a similar experience.

Tell Tell aa woman woman you you love love about aboutthe theLGFB LGFB supportive supportive careyou workshop – available in-person Tell woman love about the LGFB careaworkshop – available online and in-person. and online.information, For information, visit lgfb.ca. supportive caremore workshop – available in-person For more visit lgfb.ca. and online. For more information, visit lgfb.ca.

To outout howhow you you can have impact Tofind find can an have an by impact by partnering contact Crawford partnering withLGFB, LGFB, contact Sargeant To find outwith how you can have Dota anClaire impact by at at dcrawford@lgfb.ca. csargeant@lgfb.ca. partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca.

@LGFBCanada @LGFBCanada| lgfb.ca | lgfb.ca| 1.800.914.5665 | 1.800.914.5665 @LGFBCanada® | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665 ® LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER | REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER | REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER® | REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

Celebrity hairstylist and Joico ambassador Frederic Aspiras shares what it was like working on Lady Gaga’s hair for House of Gucci, which earned him an Oscar nomination!

Tell us about the different hairstyles and techniques you used for House of Gucci.

The many hairstyles of “Patrizia” included voluminous flips, back-combed brush-outs, hair flips and teased perms, using the original techniques from the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s, such as the classic wet roller sets, pin curls sets, spiral perms, body wave perm, bi-level tapered cuts, power-blowouts and feathered cuts.

It was important to me to keep these looks as authentic as possible, so for every hairstyle I created, I used the exact methods that were used during those time periods to get the same look and texture. We ended up using 10 hero wigs and created over 50 hairstyles throughout the film to help depict the life of Patrizia Reggiani.

How did you prepare for recreating these signature looks? What inspired you?

The research process consisted of interviews with various Italian women who grew up and lived in Italy during these decades. I watched films and documentaries of life in Italy. There were huge Italian ’70s inspirations from filmmaking legends like Visconti and Fellini that brought us famous Italian actresses like Claudia Cardinale, Monica Vitti and, of course, Gina Lollobrigada.

In the ’80s we saw a huge influence of the popular hit TV series Dynasty in Italy; Joan Collins and Linda Evans were influencers and the fashion influence of this show became international. The ’90s were all about global hair trends, and there were enough photos of Patrizia now because she had become somewhat of a high-society socialite and then a media tabloid star. The 66 salonmagazine.ca / April 2022

character not only changed with age and motherhood, but with class status.

Taking all that into account played a huge part in deciding certain hairstyle choices.

What was it like to be a part of retelling such an iconic story (the history of the Gucci family)?

Being able to recreate such an iconic story and emulate Patrizia wouldn’t be possible without the extensive amount of work and characterization by Lady Gaga. She puts her heart and soul into everything she does. I’m so grateful to be part of her storytelling. My heart and soul went into every hairstyle you see and I’m truly blessed to have worked with some of the most talented hairdressers, makeup artist and costumers on this film.

You’ve been working with Lady Gaga for more than a decade. How have you been able to help her evolve her own style with her hair? How has working with her helped you elevate your own skill set?

She’s a creative genius and it’s been so exciting to work and grow with her as we’ve developed iconic and influential looks that have helped shape the

His favourite look from the film? Patrizia Reggiani’s spiral perm in the scene with Paolo Gucci, when she says her iconic line, “Father, Son, and House of Gucci.”

“When Patrizia Reggiani finally gets into the wealth of the Gucci Dynasty, we were able to tap into the more luxurious hairstyles of that time—hairstyle trends like spiral rod perms, frizzy perms, etc.”

hair industry and pop culture. She is nothing but supportive of me and trusts me, just like I trust her. We really have a great collaborative relationship with each other, which allows us both to blossom creatively.

What advice do you have for hairstylists who are looking to work on films and with celebrities?

Trust yourself and your instincts. Don’t rush into this. Do the work and be the best at your craft. I see so many hairstylists trying to be or do something that isn’t them. Find what you’re good at and perfect that so that you stay true to your uniqueness. Then, when it’s your time, you’ll have something truly you to offer.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: © COPYRIGHT JOICO 2019

Salon Social —

Making a Masterpiece

THE N° 11 SALON BRAND #1 PROFESSIONAL HAIR CARE BRAND IN THE SCALP CARE SEGMENT FOR THICKER, FULLER HAIR2

#1 PROFESSIONAL HAIR CARE BRAND

IN THE SCALP CARE SEGMENT *

WEDDING SEASON PRO TIP:

1 globally selling 2 value data Kline & Company

* vs. hair having the average amount of 24h of sebum

Perfect for absorbing oil to ensure updo’s don’t fall flat, or use to create more texture to support backcombing.

UP TO 2X FULLER HAIR INSTANTLY* Volumising Dry Cleanser with FUSION FIBRIL™ technology Promotes lighweight fuller and denser hair Helps prolong the fullness of 3-part System Kits

Distr. by THE WELLA CORPORATION, CALABASAS, CA 91302 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 1-800-935-5273 (USA) 1-800-267-1962 (Canada)

1