Salon Magazine, June 2019 by Salon Communications Inc.

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R E DE F I N I NG T H E CU T T I NG E DGE L A R ISA L OV E GE T S CA N DI D

The Disruption Issue JUNE 2019

salonmagazine.ca

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June 2019

27 F E AT U R E

Waves of Disruption

In this expanded feature, we’re breaking down some of the industry’s top disruptors, with ways to embrace them to help you and your business.

38 DEA N B R A DW E L L , U.K.

38 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

Dean Bradwell; Jacky Quon; Norm Wright; MJ Deziel; Michelle Griffin; Isobel Eaton & Jesse Jackson; Michelle O’Connor; Marilyn Guarino

“People see successful hairstylists online but in reality, we all struggle. Being authentic will take you a very long way.” —LARISA LOVE ON THE COVER: LARISA LOVE, PHOTO: DOUG MCMILLAN, SHOT EXCLUSIVELY FOR SALON

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 9

Editor’s Letter

Publisher’s Note

56 P RO F I L E

On A Whole New Scale

40 JAC K Y Q U O N , DE STIJL HAIR, AU S T R A L I A

Find out how this Saskatoonbased salon owner turned her innovative idea into a noisemaking brand.

58 BUSINESS

Dealing with Bad Reviews

44 16 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Get your digital fix with the latest #hairinspo, how-tos and more!

MJ DEZIEL , FR EELA NCE , MONTR EA L

17 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

We’re springing into summer with the latest launches in haircare, styling and finishing, along with nails.

In today’s age of social media, reviews are being made a lot more public. Find out how to stickhandle the good, the bad (and even the ugly!) reviews with expert tips.

60 INTER IORS

Sleeker Than Your Average

Take a peek inside four Canadian salons that have taken interior design to the next level.

62 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

66 SA LON STOR IE S

Differences of Opinion

48 I S O B E L E AT O N & J E S S E JAC K S O N , U.K.

10 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

Things get #unfiltered in this conversation with Vancouver-based salon owner Michael Levine and Pulp Riot founder David Thurston.

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Editor’s Letter —

When we brainstormed story ideas for this issue, we not only wanted to cover of-the-moment topics from a different angle, but also share with you some of our industry’s latest innovations. In our discussion about social media and all of its advancements, one thing became clear: There’s no greater game-changer in this sector of technology than the photo-focused giant that is Instagram. It’s the power of the ’gram that first alerted us to Larisa Love, our cover girl and one of our industry’s most recognizable social media beauty influencers. In addition to Love, we’re shining a spotlight on hairstylists who are building their brands via this channel of influence. In each issue, we’ll pose a question to a social influencer, and share with you how their virtual connections are helping their careers. Along with musings from salon owner Michael Levine about his thoughts on social media (here’s a hint: He wasn’t an instant fan) in this issue we’re also delving into the backstory of how Saskatoonbased Contessa winner Alicia Soulier made her move into the world of software development. The takeaway? In this crazy, beautiful world, technology continues to make it possible for us to influence those around us—and even those around the world. Take advantage of it, invest in your online presence, and watch the results!

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief 12 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Social Disruption

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Paul C

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Greg Robins greg@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

Innovation or Disruption?

Laura Dunphy Publisher

14 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

There was a time in salons when beauty pros were told not to use their phone on the floor because it was unprofessional. Now, it’s quite imperative to have phones at styling stations, whether as an appointment-booking tool or, of course, for those Instagram-worthy moments. It was roughly six years ago that I first noticed this shift, when my nail technician shared that she was booking all of her appointments through Facebook. Talk about a major game-changer for many salons! Estheticians were also quick to jump onboard with the trend, as many work somewhat independently from salons, where most appointments have traditionally been booked through the receptionist. There’s no question that social media is continually evolving in this current age, and it’s undoubtedly here to stay. So when we found out that one of our industry’s biggest Instagram stars—L.A.-based hairstylist Larisa Love—was in Toronto as part of the Leading Ladies presentation at the Revel in Beauty show, we knew we needed her to be part of our Disruption issue. (Fact: This is only the second time in Salon’s 26-year history that we are featuring a hairstylist on our cover.) While we’ve known Larisa for a while, it’s still hard to believe her meteoric rise as one of the Insta’s first influencers. Watching her succeed as a hairstylist and businesswoman has been so impressive! Even more impressive? Her dedication to her craft and her sincere eagerness to learn. From hairstylists who use Instagram as their online portfolio, to those who post their work to gain followers and industry notoriety, it’s clear that this platform offers an incredible opportunity to garner attention, grow your brand, and attract new clients. If you’ve yet to truly tap into its power, consider this your gentle nudge to start today.

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

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Summer Hair, Don’t Care

Are you looking for some #hairinspo? Look no further than SalonMagazine.ca’s collection archive, where you’ll be sure to find something that piques your interest.

Contessa Awards Entries for the 31st annual Contessa Awards are now open! Check out our FAQ, tips and everything you need to know about submitting an entry at SalonMagazine.ca.

➣

Reach for the Stars Are you in search of a new job or new talent? Visit our job board at SalonMagazine.ca.

16 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

PHOTOS: HANNAH LOVIN/PRAVANA; HAIR: DILEK ONUR TAYLOR, SALON BY IN STYLE JCP, CHICAGO, IL, PHOTOS: ROBERTO LIGRESTI

“C” is for Creativity

➣

With festival season in full swing, you may be looking for hairstyles that will rock your clients’ worlds. Check out our how-tos at SalonMagazine.ca.

➣

PHOTO: COLOUR: BROOKE & PEANUT, RAZOR DOLLS SALON, AUSTRALIA, HAIR: CLIVE ALLWRIGHT, STYLING: WHITE STORY, PHOTOS: MUK HAIRCARE

SHAKE THINGS UP WITH THE LATEST CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING PRODUCTS THAT WILL GIVE HAIR EVERYTHING IT WANTS (AND NEEDS!) THIS SEASON.

Living up to its name— literally—the Vivid collection by Muk Haircare Australia showcases vibrant shades on windswept styles that are sure to be requested by your colour-loving clients this season. (We also won’t be surprised to see epic #hairinspo looks like this electric blue and green pinned to your moodboard because, in case you haven’t heard, Contessa season is upon us!)

To see more from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 17

Hairlines — NEWS

Shades of Silver Matrix adds two new products to their Total Results So Silver lineup. Joining the brand’s bestselling neutralizing So Silver Shampoo, the new Total Results So Silver Conditioner helps nourish dry hair and Total Results So Silver Mask is a deep conditioner containing concentrated pigments to enhance silver tones. Designed for levels eight to 10, this three-piece range provides a complete care system for hair ranging from natural grey and coloured grey to platinum and blonde.

Welcome Matte American Crew adds Matte Clay to its brand portfolio. It’s about time! American Crew has unveiled their highly anticipated clayinfused pomade. Ideal for short to midlength hair, Matte Clay delivers buildable texture with a workable medium hold and matte finish for a natural-looking yet polished result.

Introducing… Meet the latest addition to the Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper Family: Dry Oil Elixir. This advanced elixir contains a dry component formulated with human-like molecules for advanced absorption into the scalp, hair and skin. Formulated with curly hair in mind, the Dry Oil Elixir is ideal for getting soft, shiny, hydrated curls without any of the greasiness often associated with oils. Plus, with UV protection the oil helps protect colour from fading in the sun.

18 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

PHOTO: MATRIX, AMIKA, REDKEN, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, CURLY HAIR SOLUTIONS, AMERICAN CREW

CONTAINS OMEGA OILS 3, 6 AND 9, AND VEGAN, NUTRIENTFILLED OILS, WHICH HELP NOURISH AND SOOTHE THE SCALP, PLUS RESTORE SKIN’S MOISTURE BALANCE AND ELASTICITY.

THREE’S COMPANY

R E A P I N G T H E R E WA R D S

Find out how to benefit from a loyalty program.

Sexture Beach Look Shampoo The name says it all! This shampoo cleanses hair while priming it for those summer days of airdrying with a beachy, gritty texture and a matte finish.

Got Grit Dry Texture Paste This dry shampoo and styling paste hybrid works to absorb excess oils while creating gritty, dry texture for an undone, piecey finish.

As a salon owner and Redken artist, Katrina Smiley is always looking for ways to elevate her business. For 13 years, she’s been a member of Redken’s Club 5th Avenue (C5A) business development program, which has provided everything from educational opportunities and events, to tools and merchandising. “In our industry we always want to build loyalty with our clients and it’s important to me for a business development program to be current with the needs of our industry today,” she says. Since C5A relaunched last year, it’s expanded its tier levels and points system, ranging from seven to 20 points per dollar earned from each Redken purchase. The program is now also available to all salons carrying Redken (including salons that carry other brands). “Operating a salon can be a lot of hard work. As our business grows, our C5A tier grows and we are able to grow our points earnings to help earn more benefits, including education,” says Smiley. “When you invest in a brand that supports you, you can focus on what you love doing the most: helping your clients love how they look every day, and truly seeing their inner beauty shine on the outside, too.”

Contessa 2020: Enter Now!

Hairlines — NEWS

Get a jump on summer styles with Amika’s new texture products.

Calling all hairstylists, colourists, salon teams, makeup artists and nail techs! Entries are officially open for the 31st annual Contessa Awards! And whether you enter one or more categories, don’t forget that the early bird gets the worm (which, in this case, is 10% off the entry fee before July 23!). NEED A RULES & REGS REFRESHER? CHECK OUT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA FOR ALL THINGS CONTESSA, INCLUDING TWO MAJOR CHANGES YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT.

For more information, visit c5a.redken.ca

Creative Collaboration Just in time for summer, Revlon Professional teams up with illustrator Bodil Jane for their Style Masters California Days range.

Bushwick Beach NoSalt Wave Spray We all know how much of a staple salt spray has become for summer (and festival!) hair looks. Get ready to shake things up with this multi-phase, buildable spray that delivers all the grit and body you want, but with a lightweight finish.

With more and more brands teaming up with artists to bring their vision to life, Revlon Professional has unveiled a twopiece Style Masters line—Glory Waves and Molding Cream—featuring artwork by Dutch illustrator Bodil Jane. Known for her powerful and colourful modern imagery of women, the packaging features a playful illustration of a youthful woman enjoying a hot summer (or in this case, a California) day.

PERFECT FOR SUMMER HAIR, THE PRODUCTS ARE FORMULATED WITH SUNFLOWER SEED EXTRACT TO ADD TEXTURE AND PROTECT COLOUR.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 19

Hairlines — NEWS

Dare to Care Protect and maintain blonde colour with Unite’s Blonda system. Blonda Daily Shampoo Cleanses and brightens colour with ingredients derived from coconut, chamomile and natural oats. Blonda Daily Conditioner Conditions and protects colour with ingredients such as Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, with additional ingredients derived from coconut, plants and sugar. Blonda Toning Shampoo Tones and brightens colour in just one minute, with an ultraviolet formula that gently cleanses, purifies and neutralizes brassiness. BlondaFix A four-in-one ultraviolet treatment that repairs, strengthens, tones and brightens hair for longer-lasting colour and healthier-looking results.

— — — — — F E E D YO U R H A I R

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Nourish hair from the inside out with Saco’s Supernature. Powered by superfood ingredients, such as hydrolyzed pea protein, Babassu oil and organic Samoa coconut oil, Saco’s Supernature contains four ranges—Hydrating, Color, Revitalize and Densifying—with 17 products that include shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums, leave-in treatments and styling pastes. Plus, the products are vegan and cruelty-free!

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Twice as Nice Electric Hairdressing London adds two styling products to its lineup.

20 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

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The ˚C-6 Cloudburst On-Set Evaporating Mousse is formulated with avocado oil, which significantly reduces the product’s alcohol content, providing definition and hold without stickiness or residue.

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The ˚C-8 Invisible Volume Chalk contains chalk from the white cliffs in Sussex, England (Electric’s birthplace) for a micro-powder formulation that delivers instant grip, volume and hold without any grittiness of traditional powders. Plus, it’s magnesium-free, which means it's perfect for all hair types including coloured hair.

L OV E I S I N T H E H A I R

Give coloured locks some R&R with Living Proof’s Color Care. Time and time again, you’ll hear the same complaint from clients with coloured hair: Why does the colour fade so quickly? To help get them on the right track, Living Proof has launched Color Care, a three-step system designed to help colour last twice as long as traditional colour protection shampoo and conditioner. What makes it so different? Well, for starters the Color Care Shampoo and Conditioner are used immediately (yes, immediately) after you colour hair. This silicone-free duo forms a protective layer that locks in colour while smoothing the cuticle and protecting the outer layer often damaged during the colouring service. Not only do they gently cleanse and nourish hair, Color Care Shampoo and Conditioner help improve hair’s health by protecting it from colour aggressors such as UV and hard water.

PHOTO: UNITE, LIVING PROOF, AQUAGE, CHINA GLAZE, OPI, RENE FURTERER, ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING LONDON

Like it or not, summer often means #BigHairDontCare. While you can choose to hate it or embrace it, Electric Hairdressing London helps you do the latter with new styling products to give hair voluminous yet controlled body.

HOT SHOT

Featuring ceramic, ion, silk fabric complex and titanium technology, Aquage’s new professional styling tools have been ergonomically designed with hairstylists in mind. With high-performance power and a lightweight, minimalist design, they are ideal for using all day for a picture-perfect finish.

1. The Advanced Dryer

Features titanium technology with a true ion generator that reduces drying time by up to 50 per cent, is more than 50 per cent quieter and lasts up to 5,000 hours.

2. The 1” Advanced Straightener 3.

Features ceramic technology and plates for instant heat and recovery with a true ion generator for shiny, smooth, frizz-free results.

3. 1” and 1.5” Smoothing Irons

Features silk fabric complex with extended ceramic plates for faster styling and instant heat-up and recovery. Creates silky, smooth hair without looking flat.

SHIMMER AND SHINE

Get glowing this season with China Glaze’s Body & Sol.

Hairlines — NAILS

Aquage heats things up this season with their new professional styling tools.

Who says a summer glow is only for skin? Give nails a bronzed effect with eight new shades, including the golden tan glitter Tan-Do Attitude and chocolate gold Bronze Ambition. Plus, the new colours feature China Glaze’s new 7-free formula along with a brush that contains more than 35 per cent more fibres for a smoother application with fewer brush strokes.

4. 1” and 1.25” Curling Irons

Features titanium technology and far-infrared heat with removable clamp for use as a marcel curling iron or curling wand.

CONTAINS A NEW SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE COMBINING FRUITY NOTES OF GRAPEFRUIT AND BERRIES, FLORAL NOTES OF CHERRY BLOSSOM, ROSE AND VIOLET AND WOODY NOTES OF CEDAR AND MUSK.

New Look Rene Furterer gives its beloved Okara range a makeover. Designed to enhance colour with a radiant yet natural finish, Rene Furterer’s Okara range has been revamped with three new customizable systems: Okara Color for colour-treated hair, Okara Blond for natural or pre-lightened hair and Okara Silver for grey, silver and platinum blonde hair.

A Matter of OPInion OPI’s co-founder, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, gets candid in her new book, I’m Not Really a Waitress: How One Woman Took Over the Beauty Industry… OPI is a best-selling nail brand known for their wide range of shades, cheeky polish names and impressive collaborations with film, TV, music and even sports stars. But for the brand’s co-founder, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, things weren’t always glam. In a fun, informative and honest trip down memory lane, Weiss-Fischmann (known as Suzi, the First Lady of Nails) reveals how her struggles helped shape who she is today, and why helping women celebrate their individuality has been a key mandate for her and the OPI brand.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 21

SO LONG, UNICORN! THE NEWEST CROP OF FRESH PASTELS IS TONED DOWN AND INFUSED WITH SOPHISTICATION. HERE’S YOUR CHEAT SHEET.

Muted Pastels Is this a new case of “less is more” in hair colour? “More women are looking for less intensity and more delicate tone directions,” says Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. “This trend started in fashion and has leaped into hair colour. Women still want to have fun with their individual choice of colour for spring/summer, but they’re looking for softer tones.” Toning it Down Some say the pivotal moment of change happened when Josh Wood created this “anti-unicorn” hair colour to match Marc Jacobs’s spring/summer 2019 collection. “There was a coolness to the fabrics and a feeling of history behind them, so I layered the hair colours to make them look worn in,” Wood told Humble & Rich, a fashion review website. Catherine Allard, an international artist for Redken, says these pastels are more grown up and have a more natural look to them compared to unicorn shades. “They’re great for evoking a more romantic, feminine look.” Creating Dustier Shades “Utilizing semi-, demi- and permanent colour can allow the colourist to customize individual shades for each client,” says Boccia. “Usually, you would choose shades that are lighter in level, with less pigment direction, using colour tools designed to allow dilution. For

22 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

example, the clear gloss in our Igora Vibrance demi-permanent colour line allows for creating the softest, most delicate tone directions. Igora Royal Pastelfier is a tool in our permanent assortment that allows for complete creativity in diluting any shade.” Allard recommends creating a more

still be visible. She says the best tones to achieve this are ash tones like violet, natural, pearl or titanium. The Maintenance To boost colour between lightening services, clients should book an appointment three weeks after the original process to add a toner and ensure the look stays flawless.

“MARC JACOBS’S SS2019 VINTAGEINSPIRED COLLECTION PAVED THE WAY FOR THESE DUSTIER PASTELS THAT ARE A BIT MORE MUTED TO CREATE A MORE TONED-DOWN AND FEMININE LOOK.” – CATHERINE ALLARD, INTERNATIONAL REDKEN ARTIST powdery base to help tone down the intensity and vibrancy of colour. “Once you lighten the hair, treat it with the Chemistry Extreme Shot from Redken to boost hair’s protein. This will also help give longevity to your new colour,” she says. After this treatment, Allard makes a “flash tone” with a cool Shades EQ hair gloss in order to neutralize the warmer tones that might

At home, the routine is the same for a regular pastel: Shampoo and conditioner formulated for coloured hair. “It’s important for the client to use products at home that not only protect the colour direction but also protect and maintain the quality of the hair,” says Boccia.

PHOTO: HAIR & COLOUR: SABRINA FETTERKIND, BIBA, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: BERNICE MANSFIELD, STYLING: VY, PHOTO: KARLA MAJNARIC; INSTAGRAM

Hairlines — COLOUR

➣

By the Numbers: Instagram Edition

Hairstylist to stars like the Kardashians, she’s also founded her own brand, OUAI Haircare.

IN THIS NEWEST SECTION OF SALON, WE CONNECT WITH HAIR AND BEAUTY INFLUENCERS FROM COAST TO COAST. LEARN MORE ABOUT THEM AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

2.2M Guy Tang @guytang As a colourist and selfproclaimed hair activist, he’s been a leader in balayage and launched his own colour brand called #Mydentity.

552K Larisa Love @larisadoll

Hairlines — INFLUENCER CONNECTION

3M Jen Atkin @jenatkinhair

Influencer Connection

One of the first hairstylists to grow an influential Instagram following, she’s known for her signature fashion styling, hairagami foiling technique, and is a brand ambassador for Joico.

386K Sarmad Nejem @hairbysarmad This Vancouver-based hairstylist and educator is known for his balayage and colour-melting techniques.

360K Schorem @schorembarbier This barbershop based in Rotterdam, Netherlands, has been an epicentre of barbering education since 2010.

317K Josie Vilay @josievilay This award-winning, Winnipegbased hairstylist and salon owner has taken social media by storm with her out-of-thebox colour transformations and demo videos.

Kelly O’Leary-Woodford Winnipeg, Manitoba IG @hairbymisskellyo (Followers: 219K) Claim to Fame Hairstylist, salon owner, and educator for Pulp Riot

What do you look for when partnering with brands? First and foremost, it's about the people. I associate myself with likeminded people that are nice, humble, positive and look out for the artist. It’s easy to get swept up in the dollars and free product but then get stuck in something you don’t believe in. Or even worse, a company that will take advantage of you then discard you later. This also comes down to keeping yourself authentic. Just say true to your real-life relationships with companies and you will know what to do.

Maggie Semaan Montreal IG @maggiesemaan (Followers: 52K) Claim to Fame Award-winning hairstylist and salon owner

What has social media done for you and your career? Social media helped me put my past and current awards and accomplishments on an international platform. It helped to grow my name at a much faster speed. But aside from the beautiful content I have to post, my work and reputation have to follow to keep my standard high and my name growing.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 23

With the recent legalization of cannabis in Canada, it’s no surprise that we’re seeing it show up in many different products—including hair care. And while Canadian regulations surrounding CBD oil in haircare are still in the works, there are other cannabis-derived oils gaining popularity thanks to their powerful hair benefits. Design.ME Hair Gloss.ME For “high” shine—no pun intended—this new serum contains cannabis sativa oil (also known as hemp seed oil), known to moisturize, repair and stimulate hair growth. Marrakesh Hair Care One of the first lines to combine argan oil and hemp seed oil, Marrakesh Hair Care improves the look and feel of hair from the inside out by strengthening, protecting and adding shine.

Green Light The eco-friendly category keeps growing, with more brands striving to be more environmentally conscious. The newest kid on the block? Colour-focused brands. L’Oréal Professionnel Botanea This brand new colour range is 100 per cent herbal and vegan with Pure Henna, Pure Indigo and Pure Cassia powders, which combine with hot water for a natural-looking permanent result. Kwickway Thermal Strips Forget the foils! From pre-cut strips to those designed specifically for highlighting and balayage, Kwickway’s thermal strips are comprised of environmentally friendly materials, are 25 per cent lighter than foil with a faster processing time and provide consistent root-to-tip lift.

24 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

Coal Mine Charcoal has proven to be a hero ingredient in skincare and oral care when it comes to removing bacteria, toxins, dirt and oil. In haircare, the superstar ingredient helps remove product buildup, excess oils and provides a deep cleansing for the scalp. Amika Reset Pink Charcoal Scalp Cleansing Oil This pre-shampoo scalp treatment contains French pink clay and charcoal to remove impurities and buildup while preserving the scalp’s essential oils. IGK Swipe Up Charcoal Dry Shampoo Hair Blotting Tissues and First Class Charcoal Detox Dry Shampoo When it comes to dry shampoo ingredients, charcoal is a perfect match! IGK’s limited-edition Swipe Up Charcoal Dry Shampoo Hair Blotting Tissues is the ideal on-the-go option, and for those who prefer the canned variety, the First Class Charcoal Dry Shampoo is a powerful yet calming solution to remove impurities while soothing the scalp. PHOTO: DESIGN.ME HAIR, EARTHLY BODY, AMIKA, IGK, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

Hairlines — RULE BREAKERS

Plant Power

For years, many hairstylists believed the best way to get a long-lasting hold was with hairspray. And more often than not, that hairspray contained alcohol. From the smell to the stickiness, it was only a matter of time before a new solution would manifest. Enter: Alcohol-free hairsprays. Healthy Sexy Hair Pure Addiction This alcohol-free hairspray is a fastdrying alternative that helps hair retain its natural moisture while providing up to 72 hours of humidity resistance.

T E C H S U PP O R T

Backed by science (literally!), Virtue Labs has taken hair repair to the next level. Powered by Alpha Keratin 60ku, which is extracted from human hair, the protein helps repair damage for stronger, shinier and healthier strands. With a full range of care and styling products, stylists can transform all types of hair with customizable product solutions.

Hairlines — RULE BREAKERS

Blame it on the Alcohol

Cool Tools When it comes to hair tools, we all want to know what’s the latest and greatest. And there's no denying that this brand has upped the ante. Dyson Supersonic Professional and AirWrap Ever since Dyson made the crossover into hair appliance tools in 2016, it’s been a major disruptor in the industry. After all, the Supersonic Professional completely reinvented the design of a traditional blow dryer, making it more ergonomically efficient for hairstylists to use on a full-time basis. And while the Supersonic Professional dryer is one of the priciest options on the professional market, it’s undoubtedly one of the coolest innovations the industry has ever seen. But that’s not all. In 2018 when Dyson launched the Airwrap styling wand, it completely changed the way air can be used to help create hairstyles. Instead of using extreme heat, the Airwrap uses air to create curls or waves, or to smooth out hair.

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G et the late s t in du s tr y news

B u il d a reward ing c a re e r

SalonMagazine.ca An d , of cou rse , se e s tu n n ing co lle c ti o ns! Find the te ch ni c al a dvi ce you crave

A FRESH NEW LOOK AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 44 salonmagazine.caSalonMag / June 2018

Salon_Magazine

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SalonMagazine

Waves of Disruption Six of the industry’s top disruptors that will shift the way you work.

PHOTO: HAIR: AXIS HAIRDRESSING, AUSTRALIA, PHOTO: DAVID MANNAH

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO AND VERONICA BOODHAN

Business is changing faster than ever before, and that means staying sharp can be a challenge—but we’ve got you covered. From how hairstylists are learning, to the ways that salons are doing business, to the types of haircuts you will be offering your clients next. Plus, one of the biggest changes to hit our industry is social media. Larisa Love gets candid about how that world has shaped her world—and all of ours. ➤

SEE MORE FROM THIS HAIR EXPO FINALIST COLLECTION BY AXIS HAIRDRESSING AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 27

More and more blow dry bars are popping up across the nation. And whether you’re a salon owner or hairstylist, the trend is likely affecting you more than you may know. Find out why this disruptor will make you want to pay closer attention to your finishing services.

If you haven’t noticed, there’s a resurgence of blow dry bar chains popping up in Canada from coast to coast. And while you may think you know everything there is to know about them, think again. Take Vent Blow Dry Bar, which opened in 2017 in Toronto’s trendy Liberty Village. Their manager, Alysse Kathryn, is a licensed hairstylist with more than 12 years of experience, and a former stylist at Valentino’s Grande Salon in Whitby, Ont. “I’ve worked at salons known for their really great blow-dries. I feel like I was drawn to them—watching them style and finish the hair,” she says. “The process is so fun and creative.” On a grander scale, Blo Blow Dry Bar is a Canadian company taking

North America by storm. Operating as a franchise model since 2009, Blo has expanded into the U.S., has four locations in Vancouver and nine in and around Toronto—four of which opened in September of 2018 with several more slated to launch later this year. “We continue to see really strong growth in the category,” says Vanessa Melman Yakobson, CEO of Blo Blow Dry Bar. “People continue to come into the blow dry bar category, and customers are increasing their frequency [of visits]. They might learn about us for a special occasion, but quickly realize that [blowouts are] an affordable luxury and service they can enjoy on a regular basis.” Although regulations in Canada don’t require hairstylists at blow dry bars to be licensed, Kathryn says that when hiring at Vent, she and her team try to choose hairstylists with either a freelance or salon background. “It just makes it easier when they are working on the floor to speak and understand our language.” As for training, Vent strives for cohesiveness making sure all stylists are “using the same techniques when achieving certain styles” to allow clients to receive a consistent result, even if the service is performed by different stylists.

“IT’S LIKE GOING TO YOUR HAIRDRESSER BECAUSE YOU LIKE THE WAY THEY CUT YOUR HAIR; WITH BLOW-DRY BARS CLIENTS WILL COME BACK BECAUSE THEY LIKE THE WAY YOU STYLE THEIR HAIR. IT’S A COOL, NEW STREAM OF THE INDUSTRY THAT’S CREATIVE AND FREEING.” –ALYSSE KATHRYN, SALON MANAGER AT VENT BLOW DRY BAR IN TORONTO

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PHOTOS: VENT BLOW DRY BAR

Disruptors — BLOW DRY BARS

Are You Getting “Blown Away” by the Competition?

Cut and Dry Some salons, such as Sassoon Toronto, have made blowouts a significant part of their service menu. “In recent years we’ve stepped up our game with blowdrying because we see that there’s a need for it, especially with social media and people wanting to look polished at all times,” says Tricia McQuillan, salon director at Sassoon Toronto. “That’s the direction we needed to go to make sure we’re on par with [our competition].”

What You Can Do Did You Know? Blo Blow Dry Bar has sold 130 locations to franchise partners, with 100 locations set to open this summer.

WITH JUST ONE LOCATION THUS FAR, VENT IS ALREADY MAKING WAVES. LAST YEAR, THE BRAND CAUGHT THE ATTENTION OF DYSON CANADA, WHICH TRANSFORMED THE LOCATION INTO THE FIRST DYSON-EQUIPPED SPACE IN TORONTO, COMPLETE WITH DYSON SUPERSONIC PROFESSIONAL HAIR DRYERS, HAND-DRYERS AND VACUUMS.

At Blo, stylists enrol in Blo University (a.k.a. Blo U), which teaches the company’s signature blowout techniques and styles, along with product knowledge related to the brands they use, including Unite and Color Wow. “Our stylists really do have styling and finishing skills that they may not be necessarily learning in the hair world,” says Yakobson. “Typically, our stylists take less time [to do a blowout] since they are so proficient and quick at it. They are also getting an opportunity to learn retail sales skills and service skills.” ➤

Here are four tips to help your salon grow its blowout business.

Knowledge is Power The best way for clients to know you can provide them with a great blowout is to tell them! How else will they learn that your salon is offering a service that more and more clients are requesting? Forming a Bond We all know that the way to a client’s heart is through repeat visits. While pre-booking can help, it’s really about going that extra mile to get to know your client’s lifestyle, upcoming events, etc. that will help you recommend services tailored to their needs. Refine Your Skills If you’re not viewing blowouts as an essential part of the salon experience, you need to! Putting in the work to practice and refine your styling and finishing skills will not only help you retain your client, these steps will also minimize the likelihood that they’ll look anywhere else for their styling needs. Incentive, Incentive, Incentive Create a rewards program that motivates clients. Whether it’s the buy five to get the sixth one free, or a membership plan, implementing a system that encourages clients to return is key.

Unlike many blow-dry bars that tend to have a menu of options to select from, Sassoon Toronto has inspiration photos for clients to browse through, but they are not “boxed in.” “We are more about the individual look rather than the haircut or blow-dry on [multiple] people,” says McQuillan. “One style might not suit all people, so we really tailor it to the length, texture and density of the client’s hair. Just like cutting and colouring, we advise them of what direction to go with the blow-dry. If we don’t think it’s going to work with their hair type or texture, we’ll advise them on a different look.” Ricci Hair Co. This Edmonton-based salon chain has incorporated a blow bar into its service menu, with an express blowout and optional add-ons, such as a shiatsu scalp massage, curling or flat iron styling or braiding. Medulla & Co. Taking a holistic approach to styling, this Toronto-based salon is known for its bridal and upscale clientele, and has a dedicated team offering blowouts at an affordable price, which can also be bundled with other services.

“I STILL THINK PEOPLE WANT TO ESTABLISH A RELATIONSHIP WITH THEIR STYLIST. WE’VE LOST THAT CONNECTION, ESPECIALLY WITH MILLENNIAL CLIENTS WHO CAN SOMETIMES BE MORE TRANSIENT WITH THEIR STYLIST, OR ARE LOOKING FOR THE BEST DEAL. WE NEED TO GET BACK TO CONNECTING.”

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Disruptors — GENDER FLUIDITY

♂, ♀ or X?

As gender becomes a more fluid concept in society, the traditional “norms” of men’s and women’s hairstyling are also being blurred. Here’s why gender fluidity in hairdressing should have you questioning your thought process on styling hair—along with your salon’s pricing model.

Chances are that from the time you enrolled in beauty school to the first day you worked in a salon, you assumed you knew what men, women and children wanted. In today’s world, it’s not that simple.

Back to Basics

As men’s styles get longer and women’s cuts move closer to their chin (and above), traditional looks designed for men and women have completely changed. And while you may think that’s bad news for your Instagram feeds (bye-bye long, blonde balayage beach waves!), the trend of androgynous cuts is opening the door for hairdressers to get back to the fundamentals of cutting hair. “There’s always a group of people who want to go against the grain,” says Stephen Moody, North American education director for Wella Professionals. “Androgynous hair is an art, and it’s a lot of what I do; many times I’m verging on the edge of making girls look like boys and the other way around. [The traditional ideas of] men’s and women’s styles are almost meeting in the middle.” He thinks this convergence is what will drive people to salons and that it’s an opportunity to promote salon-dependent services, especially colour and customization. “At the end of the day, we’re in the business of business.”

— JOEY MARCHESE, MASTER STYLIST, BOB + PAIGE, TORONTO

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ACCORDING TO MOODY, NINE TIMES OUT OF 10, MOST PEOPLE CAN WEAR THEIR HAIR SHOULDER-LENGTH AND ABOVE BETTER THAN SHOULDER-LENGTH AND BELOW. PHOTOS: TK

“AS HAIRDRESSERS, WE WORK WITH EVERYBODY AND PART OF OUR JOB IS TO MAKE PEOPLE HAPPY. IT’S NOT GENDERSPECIFIED, BUT IT’S ALL ABOUT SPENDING TIME WITH THAT PERSON AND MAKING THEM FEEL THEIR BEST BASED ON THE WORK THAT YOU DO.”

A New Wave

As we all know, gender is not as black and white as it once was (or at least as society may have thought it was), with more and more people identifying as non-binary. And if you really think about it, the way gender is treated today is something that it, perhaps, should have always been focused on: The person sitting in your chair. “Whether it’s a man, woman or someone nonbinary sitting in your chair, face shape, cheekbones, head shape and facial features are all going to play a part in bringing back the classic approach to hairdressing versus something that’s genderspecific,” says Joey Marchese, a master stylist at Bob + Paige in Toronto, and Essential Looks Artist for Schwarzkopf Professional. “The hair world is a very special place, with people of all races and genders, and it’s very LGBTQ-friendly. You’re getting a lot of different people who’ve come together around hair and see it for what it is rather than look at it from a gender perspective.” ➤

At All Costs We spoke with two salon owners offering gender-neutral pricing to find out how this business disruptor is shaking things up—in a very good way.

Ben Barkworth, owner of JustB, Toronto Since opening in 2015, this salon has had a gender-neutral pricing model in mind. “From groom to short, to medium to long, we base our pricing on the length of hair, not on gender,” he says. “It’s not about lowering your prices; it’s about not ripping off your clients.” Barkworth adds that it’s important to get your staff on board with the language used for gender-neutral pricing, since some stylists may be accustomed to referring to haircuts as “men’s” or “women’s.” “Staff who have joined our team quickly adjust to this model. You charge for the work you are doing and the time that it takes your staff to do the service,” he says. “Making sure we are equal and accepting, no matter what guests identify as, and making sure they are charged fairly is hugely important here.” Fady Assaad, owner of Hair Junkie, Ottawa Since 2017, Assaad has offered gender-neutral pricing, basing his pricing model on time. “We have short, medium, long and style change. Each one of those has a different time frame. Short is half an hour, medium is 45 minutes, long is one hour and style change is one hour and 15 minutes. We call it a Dollar a Minute—for example, if you have short hair and it takes half an hour [to complete your style], you’re going to pay $30.” Assaad says it’s important to stay true to your pricing model, even if that means you risk losing some clients. “At the beginning, we did lose some men who didn’t want to pay more. But the most important thing is that you’ll gain a lot more women. We weren’t trying to get rid of our men— we’re just trying to be fair.”

“I BELIEVE THAT CANADIANS ARE AT THE FOREFRONT OF THIS CHANGE AS WE ARE A VERY DIVERSE COUNTRY, AND IT MAKES ME PROUD TO OFFER A GENDER-NEUTRAL PRICING MODEL. IT’S IMPORTANT TO DISTINGUISH YOUR LENGTHS FOR PRICING, AND EDUCATE YOUR GUESTS ON WHY YOU’RE USING THIS MODEL.”

EXPERT TIP MAKE SURE TO PROMOTE YOUR GENDER-NEUTRAL PRICING ON EVERYTHING FROM YOUR WEBSITE TO ADVERTISING TO SOCIAL MEDIA. IF AN EXISTING CLIENT SAYS THEY WEREN’T AWARE OF THE PRICING CHANGE, “GRANDFATHER” THEM IN FOR THE FIRST TIME AND INFORM THEM THAT THE NEW PRICING WILL BE IN EFFECT FROM THEIR NEXT APPOINTMENT ONWARD.

— BEN BARKWORTH, OWNER OF JUSTB IN TORONTO

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Disruptors — INCLUSIVE EDUCATION

Movements to Education Cue the music and turn on the lights, education is changing, and there are bold and exciting offerings for hairstylists to get schooled.

Traditional education delivered by an instructor for a specific brand is still a major part of this industry. But a different type of education event is beginning to emerge in a whole new way.

➣

Unbranded Content

Peter Gray celebrating creative expression at Noise’s education events.

The emergence of underground events including Elevate Hair, Noise and Créatif signify a shift in the professional salon industry. Some may see the lack of brand loyalty as dividing the industry, but that’s not necessarily the case. “I think that it’s a different way that becomes more about hair and sharing that doesn’t exclude anyone,” explains Tristan Morrison, a Toronto-based hairstylist and soon-to-be salon owner. According to Peter Gray who, along with Richard Ashforth, established Noise, it’s about maintaining authenticity as a hairstylist. “This is the antidote to the overcommercialization. We see people who are creating incredible work come together and they get inspiration from here,” he says. Even still, there is a creativity that comes with having the freedom to learn from and work with other hairstylists. “Now it’s about being a craft hairstylist, everyone wants to get better at the hair they are doing, it’s not an exclusive club,” says Morrison.

➣ A diverse group of colourists, hair stylists and barbers take the stage at each Créatif hair jam.

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Social media has brought about a great respect among hairstylists of different sensibilities. “It doesn’t matter what they follow, at an event like Elevate Hair you have a precision haircutter on stage with someone who is using thinning shears,” says Morrison. The idea is about breaking the barriers of traditional education methods, one that shifts the idea of subscribing to particular techniques in favour of a blended way of doing things. “At first I was bringing in big people for the end of the show, then I started to include

PHOTOS: NOISE, CRÉATIF, ELEVATE HAIR

Going Underground

WHAT IT IS Most often held in an industrial warehouse setting, local hairstylists bring a model on stage and showcase their individual specialty all while a local DJ provides the soundtrack for the night. It’s a simple formula that founder Tatum Neill has taken to various cities throughout the United States, Europe and Asia, and one that will hit Canadian cities in the fall of this year. HOW DID IT START Neill initially conceived Elevate Hair as a way of bridging the gap between salons in his area. “I wanted to have some creative education experience that was local and I wanted to reach out to other salons that mine wasn’t connected to.” Having known local salon owners on more of a superficial level, Neill’s concept of building connections was a way that he saw could help everyone grow together—past the business of boundaries. ELEVATE MASTERS We rented out a premiere venue in New Orleans, with six DJs and artists from around the world. Instead of a typical hair show where folks have 20 to 30 minutes on stage, and runway and technical work is very superficial, they barber, style and colour. The idea is that they’ll get into a flow working at the highest level, and that will be new and cool.

Noise WHAT IT IS A night of celebrating the creative expression of hairstylists, often in an urban industrial location in cities including Paris, London and Tokyo. WHO YOU’LL SEE It’s always a surprise. You’ll often discover industry legends along with more unknown creatives adding energy and excitement. HOW IT WORKS This creative event is more of a concert, where teams of five to seven hairstylists work on models in 15-minute segments with no discussion. The following day, hairstylists have the opportunity to return for a day of sessions about the on-stage work from the night before.

Créatif WHAT IT IS Established by Ray Civello, this event brings international hairstylists together for a night that features 20-minute onstage presentations showcasing various creative talents in cities across Canada. WHO YOU’LL SEE Along with Civello, past artists have included award-winning hairstylists such as Charlie Price, Lupe Voss and DJ Muldoon. HOW IT WORKS Hairstylists may submit their photographic work thoughout the year for a chance to be featured on Créatif’s social media and have the opportunity to be selected for one of the live presentations happening throughout the year.

local people, and I knew I needed to open it up to everyone, no matter if they had been working for two years or 20,” says Tatum Neill, a hairstylist and founder of Elevate Hair. For example, a follower of Sassoon’s hairstyling techniques could appreciate the undone nature of Toni & Guy, which in turn makes everyone better hairstylists. “When I first heard about Elevate Hair, I knew this was something I wanted to be a part of,” says Morrison. “You are free to be hairstylists, there is a great DJ, and the freedom to participate, even if you’ve never been on stage.” This accessible community approach is what many hairstylists are looking to be a part of, no matter what level they are in their careers.

➣

Elevate Hair

Elevate Hair is like a club night for hair.

“IT’S STILL DEVELOPING, BUT AS AN INDUSTRY WE COULD BE SO POWERFUL, IF WE CAME TOGETHER WITH ONE MESSAGE AND ONE VOICE. WE NEED TO FIND WAYS TO COME TOGETHER AS A BIG COMMUNITY.” —TATUM NEILL, FOUNDER OF ELEVATE HAIR

Share Your Approach

The inclusive nature of underground events means everyone and anyone is welcome to participate. At Noise, Gray says “We are doing things in a rough and ready way, which is the way to get the authenticity, and that’s what really matters.” Whether you’re on stage or in the audience, hairstylists are learning something different. “When I’m on stage with someone like Peter Gray, I’m seeing and learning what he’s doing and then putting that into my repertoire in some way,” says Morrison. While there is a range of education to choose from among independent educators, having the cool atmosphere, music and an opendoor policy continues to be a recipe that many continue to learn from and participate in. “For many people who are starting out, getting on stage is a big moment,” says Neill, “at the same time there aren’t a lot of opportunities for people to express themselves on stage. We are hoping to be creating an opportunity for people.” ➤ salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 33

We spoke with three salon owners who are going the extra mile to connect with clients and forge a bond that runs deeper than hairdressing.

We’ve heard it all before: A hairstylist is like a client’s therapist. But all jokes aside, it’s kind of true, right? Clients will often divulge to you their most personal and vulnerable life issues. So it should come as no surprise that some salon owners are beginning to offer alternative services, such as energy treatments, to connect with clients on a more spiritual level. “It’s transformative. Not only do I have the opportunity to transform someone’s outer look, I also have the ability to transform their inner light,” says Adina Doss, owner of Adina Doss Mastery, a Salon Republic suite in Santa Monica, Calif.

Adina Doss is the owner of Adina Doss Mastery, a Salon Republic suite in Santa Monica, California, and has been an international artist for Redken for more than 20 years.

For the past five years, Doss has been offering, customized energy services, including guided meditation, chakra balancing and reiki services, which have helped her forge deeper connections with clients. “I don’t tap into this space unless they invite me,” she says. “It’s when they do that we’re able to get into intuitive communication.” Doss also performs sacred hair ceremonies, which include sage, a scalp massage with essential oils, hair treatments with crystal combs and ritualistic haircuts. Also, she is a certified crystal reader and offers angel card readings, which focus on spiritual guidance from higher powers, and cord-cutting rituals to help clear away negative energy from people. “Some people tear up,” she says. “It really lets go of a lot of things for them and they feel lighter on the inside and outside.” These types of practices aren’t limited to American salons. North of the border, Janalyn Renée, owner of Saskatoonbased Soul Salons, has found energy services to be helpful with her own –ADINA DOSS, SALON OWNER AND INTERNATIONAL struggles. “I was having a lot of anxiety ARTIST FOR REDKEN and depression issues in hair school and as I was healing myself with energy services, I started to see how it blended into the hair world,” she says.

“THERE’S A GIANT WAVE OF CONSCIOUSNESS THAT’S COME ACROSS THIS WORLD. PEOPLE AREN’T SURE WHAT IT IS, BUT THEY ARE OPENING UP TO IT BECAUSE THEY ARE SEEKING SOMETHING MORE TO MAKE THEM FEEL GOOD FROM WITHIN.”

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DID YOU KNOW? 65 PER CENT OF MILLENNIALS ARE WILLING TO PAY MORE MONEY FOR SELF-CARE SERVICES.

PHOTOS: SOUL SALONS, KATIE THACKERAY, JANALYN RENÉE, ADINA DOSS, GETTY IMAGES

Disruptors — WELLNESS EXPERIENCES

An Alternative Approach

Katie Thackeray is the owner of Vivid in Lloydminster, Alta., a family-owned business she shares with her mother and two sisters. Vivid is a Green Circle salon carrying Aveda and Schwarzkopf Professional products. In addition to offering reiki and wellness treatments, Thackeray also offers astrology readings. “Being open to trying something different can really encourage a lot of self-healing,” she says. “It’s not something we push on people. For us, it’s just about opening the door and finding out how we can help them be well within themselves.” And while each of these salon owners have had their share of skeptics, they haven’t let that stop them from offering these energy services in addition to traditional hair services. “One will not replace the other,” says Doss. “I’m still a hairstylist who’s passionate about hair and providing services. But another part of me wants to give this to people. Taking them through the journey and still doing all the things that I do for a regular guest is just adding that extra little bit to make them feel safe in making and creating change.” Janalyn Renée is the owner of Soul Salons, a Saskatoonbased Green Circle salon with a wellness approach, carrying Neuma and Kevin.Murphy products. For Renée, it began three years ago during a trip to Maui, where she discovered crystal combs and the eye-opening book Awakening Hair: Caring for Your Cosmic Antenna by Laura Sullivan and Linda Deslauriers. “I really believe that hairdressing is a lost healing art,” she says. “Your hair is like spiritual antenna—it’s an extension of ourselves; a sensory tool we don’t even know that’s there.” Renée shifted her business from a traditional salon space to her home, where she’s created an intimate environment to offer energy healing services for her clients. “People aren’t just coming to me for a physical transformation; they’re coming for a physical, mental, emotional, energetic, spiritual transformation,” she says. Setting aside specific days for these services, Renée offers spiritual cuts featuring energy and reiki treatments, cord-cutting and crystal combouts before a zen head massage and a purification

hair wash. “I just take all the stuff that’s coming up to the surface and wash it down the drain,” she says. “I prefer to do a more natural haircut that’s slower and has a more yin-like style; not rushing through the hair so it’s very relaxing for the client. Sometimes I’ll incorporate hair balancing—a more precise, sacred, geometric haircut. After styling, I do a little grounding ceremony at the end to wrap it all together.” After experiencing physical and emotional struggles behind the chair, Katie Thackeray, owner of Vivid in Lloydminster, Alta., began offering wellness services to clients. “As hairstylists, I truly believe we are in the industry of caregiving,” she says. “I feel that my job has given me the opportunity to have deeper conversations while learning how to release energy from other people. I’ve also learned different ways to shake off that energy from myself as well.”➤ salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 35

Salon suites have continued to play an integral part in the Canadian market over the last few years. That said, have they had an impact on the traditional salon environment? Here’s what we found out. At one time, owning a salon meant finding the right property, hiring a team of hairstylists, deciding the colour and retail product lines to carry, and opening for business. While this is still the case for many salons, in recent years a new business model has become a part of the Canadian salon landscape: Salon suites. No matter which side you’re on, with more suites cropping up, “It’s being viewed as a legitimate model for salon ownership,” says Linda Lefebvre, owner of My Salon Suite in Ottawa. It seems that salon suites are here to stay.

Reality of Real Estate

For many owners, the cost of property rental is one of the largest expenses. It’s a situation that, according to Hila Zer-Aviv, manager at Sola Salon Suites in Toronto, has hairstylists walking through her doors. “There’s also the fact that buildings are being sold, and salon owners may not know where to go next,” she adds. In Calgary and Edmonton, 36 salonmagazine.ca / June 2019

Jeff Wade saw the need for affordable real estate and launched Citizen Salon Studios as a result. “Smaller salons were struggling and we saw a shift in the economic environment, creating a need for this model,” he says.

Building Businesses

Securing the best environment is key to helping hairstylists make the leap to business owners. “We focus on finding the right physical space to appeal to potential clients in that area,” says Wade. From parking to ample natural lighting, the goal for Wade is to simplify the selection process for the potential salon owner.

Culture Club

Independent ownership can be a solitary pursuit, but suite managers continually work to create a collaborative atmosphere. “This is a very family-based team and we have a few practices that have created this atmosphere,” says Zer-

Urban Versus Suburban

“The suburbs have embraced [this movement] much more quickly than the urban areas,” says Zer-Aviv. While the reasons for the early adoption of this business model aren’t exactly clear-cut, it’s exciting to see suburban dwellers responding so positively.

Let’s Get the Facts Satisfaction Guarantee While salon suites differ in the time frame, one thing remains true: Renters can leave prior to a certain time period without consequence. Build Your Client Base With different businesses based in the same space, cross promotion among businesses is a real thing. Encourage your clients to explore the other on-site offerings and have their customers do the same. Own Your Independence Initally, the appeal of suites may be suited for more established hairstylists, however suite owners have found some young business professionals to be just as successful as their more experienced counterparts.

PHOTOS: JALISSE PHOTOGRAPHY, DOUG MCMILLAN

Disruptors — SALON SUITES

Is It the Suite Life?

Aviv. Suites also host education events that focus on accounting, marketing and social media. Lefebvre believes it’s their business programs that really help guide new and experienced salon owners. “Lunch and learns, especially on marketing and health and wellness sessions really help them run successful businesses,” she says. In addition, hairstylists can also take advantage of education offered through brands and include everything from cutting to colour techniques to inspiration.

Fun Facts

As one of the first hairstylists to cultivate an influential Instagram following, Larisa Love has built her brand—and her salon in Studio City, California—her own way.

In Real Life

“I was born in the Ukraine and my family won the Visa lottery when I was six years old, which means that we were all able to come to America despite being a family. My dad is a Pentecostal pastor, so I was raised in a very strict home in a very sheltered Russian community. I wasn’t allowed to go to the movies or wear makeup. I moved out at 17 because I couldn’t really express who I was. When people ask me about celebrities, especially from the ’90s, I don’t know anything because I was so sheltered. I know—it sounds crazy!”

Paved Her Own Way

“When I was 18 I went to beauty school and graduated by the time I was 20. My parents were very against me going to beauty school in the first place, so my father completely cut me off financially and emotionally. I really used his not believing in me to push me to prove to myself [that I could succeed] and because of that I have an amazing career. At the end of the day, I have to live my own life.”

Social Media Mayhem

“When Instagram first launched, I had just started doing hair and I had a feeling that there was something special about it. So I began putting content up before other hairstylists were doing this. Now I feel it’s oversaturated with hairstylists. Also, the algorithm makes things difficult to stand out. Before Instagram, I was walking around giving out my business cards and I probably would have been walking with my portfolio in malls. I still think my drive and how hard I work would have paid off, but I do give a lot of credit to social media [for my success].”

Disruptors — LARISA LOVE

Feel the Love

Most people don’t know… I can speak, read and write Russian fluently.

Completely Self-Aware

“I think people have a misconception that I’m rude, but when they meet me they realize that I’m just a normal girl. I’m really welcoming and I don’t think I’m above anyone. For me, it’s nice when I meet celebrities and find they are down to earth. So I like to think that when people meet me, that’s what they find: someone who is real. People also think I’ve had help and that my parents bought me my salon, when in reality I did it on my own. There was a whole string of comments on my Instagram where people were saying that there was no way I could do it myself. I sacrificed a lot, I didn’t get loans, I saved for it and paid for it myself.”

Artistic Independence

“I still consider myself an independent artist. Joico doesn’t choose the clients I see or the techniques I use. The reason I became a brand ambassador was that I was already using the brand and we intertwined so seamlessly. They really allow me to be a full-time artist.”

A Dream Come True

“Some days I feel like I’m living in a dream and I’m going to wake up. There are times where I feel like life is too good to be true. I don’t know what I did in my past life to have had so many blessings in my career at such a young age. I’ve been a hairdresser for nine years and I feel like I’ve already won the lottery in my career.”

If I wasn’t doing hair I’d be….an interior designer. I custom designed everything from the front desk to the colour bar by drawing out how I wanted it to look. I like having an industrial feel with reclaimed wood and brick, but with a touch of class so I included chandeliers. In five years I will… open a studio in New York City. I’m slowly building a clientele there and then I want to have a studio in London, England. Los Angeles will always be home because that’s where I have my business, but I want to be able to live on both coasts and in London. My work husband is… Joico brand ambassador, Richard Mannah. We are always working together; he cuts and styles, and I do the colour. We have a connection and share a lot of the same values. I’m known for… very natural, blended colour. You need to be consistent in your work and style so that people will recognize it.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 37

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; POP KIDS

Combining precision cuts and textured styles, this vibrant collection is nothing short of cool.

HAIR Dean Bradwell, U.K. MAKEUP Lan Grealis STYLING Marie McLeod & Madelena Jacobs PHOTOS John Rawson

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salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 39

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; DRAWN IN

Blending intricate hairstyling with illustrations, this Australian collection is a whimsical work of art.

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HAIR & COLOUR Jacky Quon, De Stijl Hair, Australia MAKEUP Sophia Pafitis PHOTOS Kishka Jensen ILLUSTRATOR Max Milly salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 41

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; SHAKING THINGS UP

Short cuts and loose texture give a playful vibe to this Canadian collection.

Contessa 2019 Finalist, Session Hairstylist of the Year: Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto MAKEUP Katie Foster STYLING Melissa Stetski PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon

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Collections — POSTCARD SERIES

Inspired by street style around the world, this Canadian collection takes men’s styling to the next level.

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HAIR MJ Deziel, Freelance, Montreal MAKEUP Samantha Lamothe & Leanne Perron STYLING Frederique Legare PHOTOS Kelly Jacob salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 45

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; TRANSPARENT

This playful collection elevates fashion tones with superior finishing and styling.

HAIR Michelle Griffin, Griffins, U.K. MAKEUP Lauren Mathis & Lucy Flower STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Richard Miles

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Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; SILHOUETTE

This powerhouse duo ups their game with this black-and-white collection featuring creative styling and highquality finishing.

HAIR Isobel Eaton & Jesse Jackson, U.K. MAKEUP Lucy Flower STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Richard Miles

Shot for Hairdressers Journal British Hairdressing Awards

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Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; STRUCTURED BY DESIGN

Combining intricate avantgarde shapes with feminine styling, this NAHA-winning collection is unconventionally beautiful.

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HAIR Michelle Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor, Salon by In Style JCP, Hollywood, FL MAKEUP Joanne Gair STYLING Nikko Kefalas PHOTOS Roberto Ligresti salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 51

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; PADMA

With pastel and metallic tones, this Hair Expo Australia finalistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection juxtaposes sleek, finished looks with livedin texture for a modern yet wearable finish.

COLOUR Marilyn Gaurino, BIBA Academy, Australia HAIR Lyndal Salmon MAKEUP Bernice Mansfield PHOTOS Karla Majnaric

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#ContessaAwards

ENTRY DEADLINE

August 6, 2019 GALA

November 10, 2019 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

Learn more about important rule changes

SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

PRESENTED BY

Profile —ALICIA SOULIER

On A Whole New Scale An inside look at how an award-winning hairstylist from Saskatoon built a tech company garnering international attention.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

How do you go from that idea to developing an app? I knew we needed updated technology and someone who could create it. So I found a local development company to work with. I trademarked the brand name within a month of the initial development of the app, and I was ready to go. When it comes to patents, with technology you can protect yourself with a design patent, which covers how the app looks, talks and interacts. It’s all very important and that’s what really sets us apart.

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Tell us about the software itself. What is the difference compared to other apps of its kind? There are a few things. Salon Scale focuses on the cost of the product, rather than waste management. We are female led and predominantly female operated. From the feedback we have received, everyone really loves the design of it. Salon owners and hairstylists are too busy to learn a whole new program, so in developing this app, we wanted to make sure it was seamless and easy. We didn’t want people to feel that they’d have to close your shop for a day in order to learn how to use this technology. We’ve had success so quickly because people can pick it up and learn it within the same day. Some might see being in a smaller area as a disadvantage, but you don’t seem to feel that way. Why? The fortunate thing for me is being located in Saskatchewan. We are a smaller province, so it was easy for me to talk to salon owners by going doorto-door and ask them about the app, and how it would ideally work.

We were also able to be part of an initiative in Saskatchewan called Co-Lab where we were able to pitch the idea of the app and received financial support to bring it all to life. What advice do you have for someone with an idea like yours who’s living in a remote area? Know that people who live in larger areas will still help you. You really have to pivot your mindset and realize you have a huge advantage. In Saskatchewan, we’re on central standard time, so we can deal with people who are in different time zones very easily. Operate from the standpoint that you have nothing to lose by putting yourself and your ideas out there. No one really cared where I was from, but what they did care about was that I believed in the “why” of what I was doing. How do you stay focused in all of this? This is the largest roller coaster I’ve ridden, and the highest mountain I’ve climbed. The way I stay focused is visualizing the people the app helps. When you are a new product, you need

PHOTOS: SALON SCALE

What motivated you to start your company, Salon Scale? After being a salon owner for six and half years, I found I was learning more about the business and less about hair. At the time, we were doing a renovation of the salon, and I was at the paint store and saw the machines used to measure out paint colours. At that moment, the thought hit me that we really needed a similar scale for in-salon hair colour.

to be aware of the fact that people are going to be unsure. Whenever I got a negative response, I’d ask questions instead of shutting down. I was including those people in the development and they contributed and eventually became customers. In my gut, I know deep down that it will help salons become more profitable. How have you kept yourself motivated to move ahead? I look at this business the same way I look at every competition I’ve entered: I have nothing to be afraid of. There are only a handful of people who are willing to take the risk to compete, and that makes me less afraid. I network like crazy because the more support I have,

the more belief I have in what I’m doing. Whenever I’ve needed support, I’ve asked for help. Everyone involved wants to see this product win because they love the fact that they’ve helped, and the support has been incredible. As an entrepreneur, who are some of the changemakers you look up to? One of my biggest mentors is Katherine Regnier, who owns Coconut Software, which is based in Saskatchewan. This is a software company that provides scheduling to the banking industry and telecommunications companies. I am in the beauty industry, but I’m a software and service model company, so by surrounding myself with someone like Katherine I can understand tech better. In the salon industry, those who have seen many industry developments are guiding me to create the resources we need. One of my biggest icons is Van, of Van Michaels Salon because through my early days, I was attracted to how he grew the ecosystem of salons. He always expressed how important driving data is in a salon’s success. What last bit of advice would you give to entrepreneurs? I remember one of the first years I was asked to speak to the graduating class at MC College, in Saskatoon. I had written that “You will be successful when you know what that means to you.” I feel like that’s still the advice I have. You don’t need to have a big following; you can still make it without one. There are so many huge industry leaders who aren’t accessing Instagram, so don’t feel like that’s your only way to succeed. Your human connections—not just virtual ones—are what’s really important in your success, and that’s coming from a tech owner.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 57

Legal Issues

Dealing with Bad Reviews We all love how social media has permitted stylists and salon owners to showcase great work. But what happens when one of your unhappy clients steps up to the mike to tell the world how she feels? Here’s how to handle scalding feedback, without getting burned.

BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

Speed is Key

According to Kassidy Goodall, content marketing and social media specialist for Chatters, always do your best to respond to the bad review as soon as possible. “It’s important to make the person feel heard and take their comments seriously,” she says. Whenever she spots a negative comment on Chatters’ social media feeds, she reaches out to the client, acknowledges the complaint and asks them to email the company’s customer service department. “This gets them out of the public view and is also a way to handle the situation in a responsible manner, letting the client know we think their comments are very important.”

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In some cases, the client is pleasantly surprised someone is taking a sincere interest in their complaint and the issue is resolved directly into the comment. “In some situations, the client won’t take it further and they don’t even email us,” says Goodall.

It’s Emotional

Kelly Araujo, a master stylist at Medulla & Co. in Toronto, says that people often like to say things on the internet because it’s easy. “They can get really emotional about some stuff. We all have bad days and sometimes it’s good to see the other person’s perspective.” Even if you’re left to handle feedback that’s overly negative, she says there’s still a need to be considerate in your response. “It’s only

When a complaint is of a critical nature, such as in the case of physical harm, Chatters’ legal department gets involved. “We do have each client sign a waiver prior to specific services involving chemical products, and we always address allergies and previous hair product usage during the 15-minute consultation,” says Goodall. An in-depth consultation is a way to help prevent these types of complaints, so it’s a good thing to keep in mind when implementing business practices in your salon.

Preferred Platforms

As much as Yelp was a popular consumer review platform just a few short years ago, people are

primarily voicing their opinions on Google and Facebook now. “Ninety percent of [the complaints we receive] are on Facebook. There aren’t many on Instagram, but sometimes people comment there as well,” says Goodall. “Selfies are another type of review,” says Araujo. “If a client shares a photo eight weeks after her haircut and says how great her hair looks, that’s [fantastic marketing for us].” “You see the power of social media when supporters of your salon start defending the company,” adds Goodall. “It’s great, because other people are doing the job for you.”

Should You Request Reviews?

“It has to be genuine for it to be meaningful,” says Araujo. “It’s not a tactic we employ at Medulla & Co. Whether the feedback is negative or positive, in person or online, you need to be open to hearing what the client is telling you.”

“WHEN YOU’RE SELLING RETAIL PRODUCTS AND PROVIDING HAIR SERVICES, YOU USUALLY END UP GETTING COMPLAINTS ABOUT BOTH. ALWAYS OFFER TO FIX ANY BAD SERVICE FOR FREE. IT’S SOMETHING THAT GOES A LONG WAY.” — KASSIDY GOODALL, CONTENT MARKETING AND SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST, CHATTERS

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

Business —

fair you go through with the process. It’s hair, so of course you’re potentially going to feel emotional. It’s important to remember that sometimes there are miscommunications between the stylist or the colourist and the client, so follow-up is key.”

For many women, hair loss is one of the most devastating parts of a cancer diagnosis. Help a woman with cancer by referring her to Look Good Feel BetterÂŽ. The two-hour workshop provides expert support and practical tools on managing the effects of cancer treatment including loss of brows and lashes, dry and sensitive skin, as well as sun care and make-up hygiene tips. It also icludes a demonstration on hair alternatives such as wigs and scarves, all in a safe and welcoming environment alongside other women facing many of the same challenges.

Help her feel like herself again. Look Good Feel Better workshops are complimentary and offered in more than 100 cancer centres across Canada.

Interiors —

Sleeker Than Your Average These four Canadian salons have really upped their design game by transforming out-of-the-box locations into extraordinary spaces.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

Elevate Beauty Lofts, Etobicoke, Ont. elevatebeautylofts.com @elevatebeautylofts Designer Tonya Brown

Juice, Toronto juicetoronto.com @juicetoronto Designer Studio AC

Putting the “bar” in barbershop, this blackand-white space welcomes guests with a coffee bar at the front and a three-chair barbershop, offering cuts and colour, located at the back. Its clean, industrial design coupled with a hip, west-end Toronto address has made it a hot spot for private events and parties.

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PHOTOS: STUDIO AC, ELEVATE BEAUTY LOFTS, JEROME, THE HOUSE OF BLOND

In keeping with its minimalistic design, this boutique-style loft’s ultra-feminine design is filled with tons of natural light, with modern design pieces including wood and golden accents carefully curated to make guests feel at home. While it operates as a full-service hair and esthetics salon, it’s no surprise that the stunning space is often used for events.

Jerome, Calgary jeromesalon.com @jeromesalon Designer Housebrand

Go big or go home! This expansive 16,000 square-foot commercial-residential space is surprisingly airy and filled with natural light. With its reception area on the ground floor, guests are treated to a full-service salon, spa and coffee bar on the second floor. An added bonus: the salon has its own indoor parking garage and balcony.

The House of Blond, Vancouver houseofblond.com @thehouseofblond Designer Sarah Braim

FOR MORE SALON INTERIOR DESIGN INSPO, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

This loft space was designed with independent hairstylists in mind, offering them a truly #Instaworthy workspace filled with modern furniture fixtures, exposed brick and abstract artwork. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the spectacular views of the North Shore Mountains that truly make this space unlike any other. While guests can book appointments with House of Blondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artists, the space is also popular among hairstylists for chair rentals, educational workshops and photoshoots. salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 61

Events —

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Celebrating Hair at the 2019 Revel in Beauty! Hundreds of attendees, exhibitors, hairstylists, salon owners and students gathered for Revel in Beauty, an annual two-day trade show presented by the Allied Beauty Association (ABA Canada). New to this year’s event was the Business District Stage, a forum for speakers to discuss a range of industry hot topics such as gender-neutral pricing, closing a salon, and an influencer panel moderated by Salon’s editor-in-chief Anna Lee Boschetto.

Among this year’s headliners were the Leading Ladies, led by founder Tracy Hughes and featured Candy Shaw, Larisa Love, Michelle Pargee and Jennifer MacDougall.

| Philip Wolff presented his cutting education and colour techniques using Matrix’s SoColor Cult.

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The show also featured two days of exciting hair, barbering, bridal, nail and makeup competitions.

| Influential barber Rob the Original took the stage with BaBylissPRO to showcase his signature barbering techniques.

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PHOTOS: ABA CANADA, PUREOLOGY

When & Where: April 14-15, Toronto

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Events —

Sorbie was joined by Darren Stuart of Tribeca Hair Design, and both stylists showcased wig-cutting and styling techniques.

The Canadian Launch of Trevor Sorbie’s My New Hair British award-winning hairstylist Trevor Sorbie held a special wig-cutting look-and-learn and hands-on seminar in Toronto and Montreal to launch My New Hair, his non-profit organization dedicated to helping people affected by cancer. The two-day event was presented by Pureology and Look Good Feel Better Canada. When & Where: April 29 (Toronto) & April 30 (Montreal)

| In Montreal, Sorbie was introduced by Quoc Chay, president of L’Oréal Professionnel’s professional products division, who discussed the importance of working from the heart and showing empathy to clients.

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| In the afternoon, attendees were given the once-in-alifetime opportunity to get one-on-one training with Sorbie and Stuart.

Sorbie and Stuart answered questions from the audience, which ranged from pricing to wig types to which tools to use when cutting and styling.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 63

Known for her nofilter personality, Cunningham kept it real with the audience and provided advice for everything from applying colour to consultations to pricing.

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Among her colour transformations were warm redheads, golden balayage and blondes—a few of Cunningham’s signature looks.

Events —

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Getting Candid with Celebrity Colourist Tracey Cunningham More than 300 people from across Canada gathered at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto for a day of exciting and inspiring education by celebrity colourist Tracey Cunningham. Presented by Redken and Alternative Beauty Services, the event featured live, on-stage colour demos by Cunningham, who shared her formulas, techniques and go-to colour products.

— | Sheri Doss, VP of education for Redken, emceed the event and helped moderate questions from the audience.

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We also had the opportunity to chat one-on-one with Cunningham about colour corrections, celebrity hairstyling and social media. Get the scoop at SalonMagazine.ca!

PHOTOS: SALON STAFF, WILLIAM COMTOIS, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

When & Where: April 29, Toronto

Events —

| “Being a part of a family-owned company and the opportunity to participate in the evolution, growth and vision of La Biosthetique’s Culture of Total Beauty,” is what excites Guylaine most about this new venture.

A Day of Inspiration with La Biosthetique Guylaine Martel and Marc Riese, creative directors for La Biosthetique Canada, presented their very first collection called Sincere Beauty at an event showcasing the brand’s innovations and new launches for 2019. The Paris-based, family-owned brand was launched more than 70 years ago, and is known for its holistic approach to haircare, colour, makeup and skincare. When & Where: April 29, Montreal

Scoop —

New National Sales Director

| The collection is a unique weave of imperfect, impermanent and incomplete beauty inspired by the traditional Japanese method of wabisabi that ingenuously harmonizes aesthetics of intimate, simple beauty.

| For the last segment of the day, Guylaine Martel imagined a showstopping presentation fuelled by her avant-garde, intense hair creativity.

Valérie Francisque, previously the Eastern Canada sales rep for L’Oréal Professionnel, is now the national sales director for Kérastase and Shu Uemura, the luxury brands of the professional portfolio at L’Oréal. “I am truly honoured to represent such a lovely brand! Kérastase embodies luxury professional haircare at its best. We are proud to partner with salons who want to elevate the consumer experience and, in return, we give them the tools to ensure they are successful.”

salonmagazine.ca / June 2019 65

Conversation gets lively when a salonowning hairstylist and product company owner get up close—and a little bit personal—all in the name of disruption.

Push Boundaries DAVID THURSTON With so much competing for our attention, stylists are lucky to be getting the level of training they are from video education. I still think that some of the foundational skills are challenging to teach, so there is a place for in-salon education. MICHAEL LEVINE I’m a firm believer in knowing you suck. Knowing you’re not as good as some people, and knowing where you need to improve. There’s nothing more dangerous than thinking you know it all, it’s so vital to force yourself to work harder. As a hairdresser, the most important thing to know that you have so many ways to improve. Right now, I’m not even remotely in my comfort zone. When I look at my successes and failures, both make me realize how much I have to grow. Power of People DT I am lucky and blessed to be in this industry. I’m a huge fan of hair. I run our Instagram page and every day my jaw drops in awe. People often say this is a downtime in the industry, but I believe we are in the golden age of hair. The people you are surrounded by is so key. ML I’m kind of old school and had a really hard time moving into this more global situation. I feel that working with a bunch of people and being on stage and studying salon owners has been refreshing, and it’s shown me that I have a lot of people who are a support system now. It’s time in the industry to realize that we are all doing the same things and

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we have the same struggles. I believe it’s more exciting now than it’s ever been. DT Oh, I definitely agree. Right now hairstylists can recreate something in L.A. and someone in Japan can see their work. It comes down to the people, the artistry and the creativity. That’s what I get the buzz from. Mutual Admiration ML I started seeing David appearing at hair shows long before I knew him. When we met, he was very calm with a chill voice—not the lunatic I am. Eventually we did a show together and we were on a panel, and I thought, this guy is so calm, measured non-reactive and thoughtful. I’m not any of those things. You want to surround yourself with people who inspire you, and I thought that getting to know him would help me become a better person. DT For me, Michael is one of the most intelligent people in our industry; he’s so humble yet he says what he believes. You can get ahead by telling it like it is, even if people don’t want to hear it. That’s

scary, and Michael puts it out there. He is who he is and he’s not apologizing for it. He’s more of a leader than he thinks, he commands people backstage and in his salon. And he’s one heck of a person. Going Forward ML One thing I’m noticing is that I’m seeing NAHA and Contessa-worthy work on Instagram. I wonder how that’s going to affect things. Every week, we see someone putting out more work and what’s cool is that everyone has a voice. I’ve also found that if I reach out to people on Instagram and ask if they teach, a lot of people are teaching education independently. DT What’s interesting now is that trends change daily. Someone posts a photo of space buns and then someone posts a photo that looks like a different version of space buns, and I see that as being the power. The industry unifies in such a way they couldn’t before. It’s not coming down from men or women in suits, and that’s exciting to me.

PHOTOS: MICHAEL LEVINE

Salon Stories —

Differences of Opinion

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