Salon Magazine, March 2006 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon MAGAZINE

TK knockout O

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

Edwin Johnston’s

collection

2006 SPRING TREND REPORT MARCH 06 $5 WWW.BEAUTYNET.COM

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Cyrus Wachs German Hairdresser of the Year Wachs & Wachs & Zians Friseure, Frankfurt

Van Council North American Hairstylist of the Year Van Michael Salons, Atlanta, Miami and Tokyo

Antoinette Beenders British Hairdresser of the Year Urban Retreat Lifestyle Salon & Spa, London

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l salon l MAGAZINE

Contents MARCH 06 W W W. B E A UT YN E T. COM

Hair: Edwin Johnston The Cutting Room Hair Design Nanaimo, B.C. Model: Victoriya Cerasymenko

ON THE COVER

Photography: Leda & St-Jacques

DRESSES AND TRESSES FEATURE 2006 Spring Trend Report

Makeup: Julie Begin

TK KO

Wardrobe: Isabelle Long

CONTESSA GALLERY Edwin Johnston's knockout collection

HIGHLIGHTS 26

42 44 48 90

HAIRLINES

Made in Germany - The latest kollection from Wachs & Wachs & Zians Friseure p.26; Turn Back Time - Anti-aging product for maturing hair p.28; Makeup 101 - book review p.30; Found in Translation - French-English hairstyling dictionary helps hairstylists break language barriers p.30; Runway to Street - Making it work for the average woman p.32; Phone Skills - Receptionists can bring in new clients p.32; In the city of lights - Anais Côté gets to live her dream with L'Oréal Professionnel p.34; Qualified Success - CIABC lobbying for professional respect p.34; Talking about Contessa p.36 8 tips to make new customers lifelong clients p.36 Idea Season Contessa 18 is on its way p.40

Styling Products: KMS California

57 FEATURE

TANNING

Do your clients know?; Golden Precision

NAILS

Outplay Outwit & Outlast - Custom-blended manicures survive the test of time p.44; Dryer Ground - Clients soak up the benefits of waterless manicures p.46

MEN

FLAKES you don't want in your chair

BODY BASICS

Lashing out

> CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 20

2006 SPRING TREND REPORT

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s a l o n > march 06

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l salon l MAGAZINE

FEATURES 50 64

PAST PRESENTED WITH FUTURE

PULSE Lunch with Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply

FAMILY GATHERING

SCENE Aveda's Congress Festival

ELEGANTLY FEMININE

DESTINATION SPAS

THE JIE EXPERIENCE

VISUAL FEATURE Senscience L’Élégance Collection

ESTHETICS It’s all about the services offered

FINISHING TOUCH

PROFILE Celebrating a decade of success

REGULARS 22 24 52 96 100 102 104 120

EDITOR'S LETTER PUBLISHER'S NOTE GET THE GOODS

INTERIORS

HOT PRODUCTS VANCOUVER’S SATELLITE SALON

EVENTS SCOOP PRESS PASS LAST WORD –John Steinberg

48 MEN

SALON INTERNATIONAL 20

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EDITOR'S LETTER

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SPRING FORWARD

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AS I WRITE THIS, on January 20, it’s a sunny plus 9 Celsius in Toronto, and not a flake of snow to be seen. The birds were chirping as I walked to the office this morning wearing no scarf, gloves or hat. (Mother Nature will make us pay for this, to be sure.) It really made me think of spring and this issue’s first-ever spring trend report. Our editors, Tina Christopoulos and Morella Aguirre, spent weeks researching, gathering images and talking to beauty pros to bring you our predictions for spring 2006. Be sure to check our interpretations of the latest runway, hair, makeup and nail trends on page 57. Spring is a time of renewal and inspiration and in the beauty industry it signals the start of show season. It’s the time to check out the newest developments in products, techniques and education offered by manufacturers as well as some live competitions to get creative juices flowing. The Montreal ABA show kicks things off March 5 and 6, with Vancouver hot on its heels March 19 and 20. Looking ahead for Contessa 18 (entry forms, rules and regulations are now being tweaked for beautynet.com/contessa and our April issue), nothing inspires hairstylists more than beautiful images of great models sporting gorgeous, sexy, diverse and interesting cuts, colours and styling. In this issue we bring you three knockout collections that we found very inspiring. The first is from Edwin Johnston of the Cutting Room Hair Design. Edwin had more than a little spring in his step when he produced this boxing-themed creation for Contessa 17. The second is a stunning collection entitled L’Élégance, from Martin Hillier, artistic director for Senscience. And the third is the winning Touchable collection by Lisa Shepherd, for which she was recently crowned 2005 British Hairdresser of the Year. Anti-aging products are all the rage these days. With baby boomers fast becoming the larger percentage of the population, manufacturers are developing products that meet the demands of this lucrative niche market. Check out page 28 for our look at some of the professional hair products on the market to sell to your clients now.

Stephen Puddister Editor

�� 22

s a l o n > march 06

Heart disease is the #1 killer of women.

The Heart Truth is 1 in 3 women dies of heart disease, while 1 in 30 dies of breast cancer. The Heart Truth is only 20% of women identify heart disease as the greatest health problem facing women today. The Heart Truth is women can reduce their risks of heart disease by up to 82% by living a healthy lifestyle. The Heart Truth is women deserve to know. Creative Nail Design is proud to support women, heart disease awareness and The Heart Truth campaign. Because heart disease doesn’t care what you wear — it's the #1 killer of women.

You deserve to know.

Please visit www.hearttruth.gov or www.creativenaildesign.com to learn more about The Heart Truth campaign.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 15 issue 03

www. b e a u t y n e t . co m

EDITOR

Stephen Puddister > ext. 120 | editor@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > ext. 106 | art@beautynet.com

REINVENTION:

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Morella Aguirre > ext. 105 | editorial@beautynet.com MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com

MOTHER OF NECESSITY?

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Francie Wyland SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford

PRODUCTION & DESIGN COORDINATOR

Guillermo Ohno > ext.113 | design@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTORS

Kim Hughes, Colette Wright, John Steinberg, Lori Colborne

SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy > ext. 110 | publisher@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Jade Bateman > ext. 121 | jade@beautynet.com Marlee Podruchny > ext. 118 | marlee@beautynet.com HAIR ANDREA WALMSLEY, JUDY INC. CUT BILL ROWLEY COLOUR PHILIP AULENBACH PHOTO SEBASTIAN CIMETTA

ONE OF THE THINGS I LOVE about spring in the beauty biz is the flurry of activity, shows, new product launches—it creates a fresh new feeling about the business of beauty. In our industry, we’re constantly reinventing ourselves and our businesses, because what’s new is hot. And in this ever-changing world we live in, clients are demanding more. Whether it’s the haircut or colour, nail service or salon products, staying on top and being informed will keep you on the leading edge. In our industry manufacturers work diligently to bring you the latest technology, whether it’s new ingredients or a complete makeover, as with the most recent re-launches of Joico and KMS. Joico’s brand manager, Dede Sgardelis says, “Joico is reinventing itself to meet today’s consumer needs through packaging, new categories and marrying this with science and technology.” Brian Ahrens, general manager for KMS says, “KMS is also about new technology. However, an important part of the message is lifestyle, individuality and fusion of these components.” Imagine getting excited about hair spray. According to Redken, 66 per cent of Canadian women use it. That should get any salon owner’s attention. Ka-ching! That’s one of the reasons Redken’s investing in this category and offering stylists great formulas and smart packaging with lock tops—good for anyone who travels. Client savvy Paul Mitchell is introducing two new styling products called Express Style that reduce drying time. You gotta love that! Why should you care? When major manufacturers spend serious money reinventing themselves with new formulas and ingredients, you can be sure they’ve done their homework. They’ve done the market research and recognize that in order to stay on your salon shelves they’ve got to keep fresh. Think of Madonna, the queen of reinvention. Love her or hate her, she continues to be a force to be reckoned with in the music industry—and you’ve got to respect her for that. To drive home her point, her last tour was called Re-Invention. Want to breathe some new energy into your business, your staff or yourself? Listen to the key words and messages these experts are using. You can apply them to your business and the way you talk to your clients, to keep you on the curve.

COPY EDITOR

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s a l o n > march 06

CH, 2006 NYC MAR E U N E V A TH REDKEN 5

A Message from Redken

value of added y a rr a e nches t th ited abou e new product lau c x e re a th We l be as s well as w you wil a o n s k e v e ti w ia on we and init distributi als, 2006… n r in io fo e s g s d n e fe a n h t n ange” an ec pla n Pro g import ition to th ew “Redken Exch -ofd in Dear Salo d o a rg e In d . well y is un ful salon ew state ted in a n n industr ands of success also inves n Toronto. This n education e , v lf a e h rs The salo u m o e y downtow xchange” es from and the d olorists such as right in c Redken E s and changes “ d d n n n a a ia dkenit d m ts a e s n d tyli ite all Re -art Ca n these e in u cation t g th d e n in e owners, s a v m li best edu pulse l better il ry a w e ing. To v y lv rn o it e a v il n e h e T ow be fac edke nals are country. rld will n ken o e professio e a better life, R w th n e s lo s th a s s ro it d ed ac help m liv om aroun k yard. Ask your R hange in help the grams fr ategic c d c . You e ro a tr p n s b re g u n a li order to h w a c e o our has on Bro in s mad ti n a a le e h c k b u a d a d il e d E a in R a av new Can ners ork. r for our tion part on netw distributo nded! distributi two new distribu en’s Mission tou h tributors edk will be as itself wit ring to life R ur new dis o g in m o b elc order to in me in w s. ITY Please jo N t: e n c U e la M m tp M e O te C rk ken Sta these ma bout Red n AL SALON NERSHIPS, a in N IO n S o ti S a E F rm ke E PRO E PART like info 66.9.Red UE “LEAD TH URED PROFITABL e call 1.8 sist you. u would , A UNIQ s o a S y le N p S If IO a A T d E A WITH M rs in Cana l be pleased to as SERVICE AN INSPIR distributo TIVE URB H AND PREMIUM SALES A N ent wil R E T L A ’d like OAC service ag LUE R a A P V P d n A D a E what you D IC D f IF A o T N D k N IE in A C S D en let d th A FOCUSE .” ment an little… th o H a G m U m a O a R e re H k d T Ta EAM e like... ken CATION T ent, Red r life to b u there. u m AND EDU o y te ta s mission take yo e March Redken pany our t effectiv ibutor To accom to announce tha tr Dis d n Salon is please w Redke es Ltd.” e n e e S th 06 auty rvic ards, and 17th, 20 l be “Alternative Be Best reg rinaccio a M il y w n o o ri T n in Onta le and it Salo Sean Coy n “Summ owned by and Saskatchewa McMahon and ba id in Manito .” owned by Dav c In s e Servic n. Dalati McMaho Manager ibutors Doriane Michael General two distr t, e n s e e n id o th s cus both Vice Pre n and fo date of ada lth a e The man work with Redke w dken Can h e it R w ls to a will be ucation rofession salon p s by providing ed g in lp he on case in ady the onsultati e c lr g a in d is il bu … as ed value edken. and add s with R e c in v ro p all other

GET INSPIRED. SEE YOUR STYLIST. WWW.REDKEN.CA

1.866.9.REDKEN

HAIR LINES The latest kollection from Wachs & Wachs & Zians Friseure

INSPIRED BY THE PROVOCATIVE PHOTOGRAPHY of Helmut Newton, Wachs & Wachs and Zians Friseure’s recent Made In Germany collection portrays strong black-and-white images of stylish, multifaceted women wearing super-sexy, versatile hair. This cutting-edge German trio, known for geometrics, angled cuts and strong colours, is made up of stylists Cyrus Wachs, Cajus Wachs and Franck Zians. Winners of several coveted accolades, including the 2003 German Hairdresser of the Year Award, W&W&Z lectured at last fall’s Aveda Congress, where they discussed their inspirations and the need to stay in tune with urban street culture.—MA

s a l o n > march 06

HAIR CYRUS WACHS, CAJUS WACHS AND FRANCK ZIANS MAKEUP ANDREA LEICHER PHOTOS MARIA MESSINA

made in Germany

HAIR LINES

Turn Back Time

CHER’S SONG ASIDE, EVERYONE WANTS TO TURN BACK THE CLOCK at some point in their lives. The baby boomer market is rapidly becoming the largest percentage of the population. This combined with the fact that as people age the environmental conditions affecting the body, including hair, become more apparent, is sending people in search of solutions to reverse the ravages of time. Amanda Capobianco, brand manager for SEAH at Schwarzkopf Professional, says, “Over time four main factors influence the condition of hair: the cycle of growth, reduced metabolism, the decline of lipids in the cell membrane as well as a gradual reduction of melanin. As a result, maturing hair becomes thinner, with reduced resistibility, and loses its natural shine. It is also more vulnerable to external damage from pollution and sunlight and can become dry and difficult to manage.” Your stereotypical senior citizen no longer exists. They want to look as young as they feel these days. Better still, the average 30-something-year-old is already looking for products to keep them looking younger. Manufacturers are constantly researching and refining products to service this lucrative market niche, and savvy salon owners and hairstylists are getting in on the action. You see your clients every four to six weeks, and when they are in the chair is the best time to review at-home regimens for the keeping their locks looking and feeling their youngest. Here are a few of the professional products now available to offer your clients.—SP

s a l o n > march 06

Schwarzkopf has just introduced the newest member to the SEAH Hairspa line, Sophisticated Hair. It comprises four indulgent products to regenerate, revitalize and replenish delicate, dry and mature hair. This formulation contains fresh-water pearl elixir along with vitamin E and features shampoo, conditioner, a recovery cream mask and a leave-in concentrate ideal for combatting frizziness. PureOlgoy’s NanoWorks shampoo and conditioner anti-aging formulas contain green tea, sugar cane, citrus and wine extracts and vegetable proteins and other ingredients for colour brilliance and protection. Both products also contain PureOlogy’s exclusive AntiFade Complex of full-spectrum sunscreens. L’Anza’s CP Anti-Aging—The revolutionary Cystine Peptide Complex is found in the White Tea (a known antioxidant) Shampoo, Manuka Mud Conditioner (manuka honey is know for its healing properties) and Neem Plant Silk Serum (neem is a cornerstone of the Ayurvedic tradition) for replenishing vital cystine peptides in the hair through an advanced cross-linking process. Nioxin Thinning Hair System—The first company to create advanced antiaging salon formulas for the scalp and hair has recently introduced eight threestep scalp and hair care systems customfitted to address individual needs. Alterna’s Sulfate-and-Salt-free Caviar Anti-Aging Moisture shampoo and conditioner—A blend of three Alterna exclusive technologies—new Age Control Complex (caviar extract plus other ingredients), Enzymetherapy (for absorption) and Photozyme Complex (provides colour protection).

PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Anti-aging products for maturing hair

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HAIR LINES

MAKEUP 101

Makeup makeovers: a must-have for makeup artists

Get Glowing Be your own star ANN MINCEY OF REDKEN 5TH AVENUE NYC has recently published Get Glowing! You Are A Star Right Where You Are. At first glance, you might think it reveals beauty tips or gives advice on how to become a celebrity sensation. But instead, she shares insights on how everyone can attain balance and success in life—particularly inner beauty. Experiencing the impact of 9/11 was one of the motivating factors behind Mincey’s decision to write and publish the book. In the book she explains, “What makes it possible for any of us to shine at full wattage, and to turn ‘becoming’ into ‘being,’ is giving daily attention to and balancing each of Five GLOWpoints.” Get Glowing is an optimistic, inspirational life guide, written from the heart. Mincey offers tips galore on how to live life to the fullest and achieve the inner peace and happiness everyone desires most. Get Glowing is available at www.getglowing.com—SP

s a l o n > march 06

Found in translation French-English dictionary helps hairstylists break language barriers Arché-tif, a French-English dictionary for the hairstyling community, capitalizes on one of the key skills a hairstylist must possess: excellent communication. In a breakdown of salon tools, products, expressions and lingo, author Sébastien Coppeaux has compiled an extensive list of required terms that would allow any anglophone stylist to function in a Frenchspeaking environment, and vice-versa. The dictionary was inspired by a Spanish stylist Coppeaux had a chance to work with in Barcelona who spoke six languages and was able to grow his business based on these fantastic communication skills. “People want you to speak their language. Thanks to his ability to communicate with all those different cultures, he was able to promote his great hairstyling skills as well,” says Coppeaux. “Not many stylists speak a different language than their own, but the most obvious aspect of our career is human contact and communication. It’s a real asset to be able to speak an additional language.” Coppeaux grew up watching his mom cut and style hair at home, and later became a hairstylist himself. He drew on his own experience, and paid special attention to the questions being asked in the salon to complete this book. Arché-tif is currently available in French and English. Coppeaux also plans to publish it in Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, German and Dutch to English.—TC

PHOTOS FROM MAKEUP MAKEOVERS ROBERT JONES COPYRIGHT FAIR WINDS PRESS 2005 PRODUCT PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

akeup artist Robert Jones has created the perfect resource guide, a bible that all makeup artists should learn, consult, master and pass on to their clients. With over 70 before-and-after transformation pictures, the book offers tips on how to help women uncover their absolute beauty by enhancing or downplaying certain features. Broken down to the basic principles of applying makeup, it illustrates how to help a face look its best without today’s popular surgical procedures by utilizing makeup to artfully sculpt and accentuate its most flattering features. “You’ve done a successful job in makeup when the woman looks prettier than she did before but still looks like herself,” says Jones. “She needs to be the most perfect her she can be.” Jones also describes 10 makeup mistakes and what to do about them, but says the worst of them is thinking that more is better. “Many times it’s about what you don’t put on,” says Jones. “It’s about the makeup appearing as natural as possible. You can have just as much effect by lightening an area as darkening.” Jones admits to having learned the techniques he now shares in Makeup Makeovers by committing big, ugly mistakes over many years and thereby learning what doesn’t work. His artistic background (he studied painting from the age of 7 to 13) also helped, allowing him to apply many of the principles he learned as a child to the three-dimensional canvas that is the face. Whether you embrace the book’s talent-inspired advice or use it as eye candy on the coffee table to be pored over for its brilliant images, Makeup Makeovers is a great addition to your salon’s library.—TC

Curls Rock System www.tigihaircare.com 800.259.8596 Available only in Professional Salons TM

HAIR LINES

PHONE

SKILLS

Receptionists can bring in new clients.

Making it work for the average woman INTERPRETING THE LATEST TRENDS IN HAIR, FASHION, AND MAKEUP for the consumer is a huge hit with daytime television viewers. Chrissie Rejman, producer of CityLine with host Marilyn Denis, seen daily across the country, says, “We have been on the air for 17 years, and every week on Fashion Friday and monthly on Makeover Madness we feature makeovers. It’s a Cinderella story we never get tired of doing—we’ve done thousands, and our audience still loves it!” Because CityLine features regular guest experts, its team of top hairstylists, makeup artists and fashion gurus is well known to viewers. It’s like the destination show for hairstylists. The Makeover Madness contest, which makes over viewers from head to toe, is hugely popular and recently aired in prime time. For two years in a row, CityLine has been invited to London, England, by Schwarzkopf Professional to film Schwarzkopf putting together its Essential Looks collections for hairstylists around the globe. CityLine then shows the footage to its audience, with guest experts interpreting everything for the consumer. Bill Rowley, from Philosophy Inc., has been a hair guru for CityLine for over 15 years. He has been to London on both shoots and says, “The great thing about it is we bring all the news back and present it on a level that the audience can understand. We use real people, not models, so that a 45-yearold woman in Tillsonburg can relate to it. We take away the intimidation so that the average woman can feel good about the new trends and make them work for her.” Just as the fashion world does shows twice annually, Schwarzkopf does two Essential Looks collections a year inspired by the textures, colours and shapes of the clothing from the runway shows. And just as the experts on CityLine interpret the elements for the makeovers, hairstylists in the salon can use the Essential Looks book to inspire and interpret for their clients when they are in the chair. Rejman adds, “Bringing the story of the Essential Looks collection to our show has been great. Our viewers rely on CityLine to help them adapt it to their lifestyles.”—SP

s a l o n > march 06

1. Always answer the phone with a smile on your face. Believe it or not, people on the other end can hear the difference in your voice. 2. Always answer with a professional tone in your voice. Remember, the caller could be a potential new client. 3. If the caller is inquiring about service, ask questions about what type of salon or services they like to go to for their beauty needs. 4. Not all clients want to spend a lot of money. Know your salon’s products, services and price points. Be engaged, and familiarize yourself with all aspects of your salon’s business and you will find yourself subconsciously selling without even realizing it. 5. Ask yourself why a person would want to come to this salon, and be prepared to do the sales pitch yourself. Most salons should be able to cater to almost any client in some way.—SP

PHOTO COURTESY CITYLINE

RUNWAY to STREET

When it comes to putting your best face forward, having the right receptionist can make a huge difference in how prospective clients view your business. Putting the best voice forward on the phone can make a big difference as well. This is true when dealing with regular clients who already know your salon, but it becomes more important when you’re fielding calls from possible new clients. “A short consult with a prospective client can draw in business. I view each cold call for information as a possible new client,” says Janine Kozlov, receptionist for Lift Salon and Spa in Toronto. “When someone calls to ask about costs or services we provide, I take the opportunity to ask a few questions about what they are looking for in a salon or spa.” Kozlov boasts that the right approach can convert many of these calls into future clients. “I challenge myself on how many I can convert,” she says. Since the receptionist is not always the one who answers the phone, here are some tips anyone can use for projecting better service etiquette over the phone:

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HAIR LINES

In the city of lights

Anais Côté gets to live her dream with L’Oréal Professionnel

aris: the capital of fashion, the culmination of European flair and historical beauty. And Anais Côté from Montreal got to experience it all in an once-in-a-lifetime opportunity offered to her by L’Oréal Professionnel to work behind the scenes during Paris Fashion Week. Due to travel commitments, the winner of the runway style competition was unable to go, and first runner-up Côté filled in. “I was ecstatic,” she says. “Who wouldn’t be happy? It all worked out perfectly.” Anais moved to Los Angeles for a threemonth stay the same week she was told she would be going. Just a few short weeks later, she was on her way to Paris. “I was there for four days. It was like a dream,” says the enthusiastic Côté. “There were stylists running around backstage everywhere. I was assisting a stylist who had just finished working on Milan Fashion Week. It was so interesting to hear her story, and certainly motivating from a professional standpoint.” The hairstyle they were asked to recreate was a straight-ironed look with a sideswept fringe placed behind one ear. The models wore natural-looking makeup. “It wasn’t the difficulty of the hairstyle that was impressive as much as the way the group worked together, stepping on each other’s toes but getting the work done. And of course the haute couture dresses were amazing. ” Côté immensely enjoyed the challenging structure of the contest that got her there. “I’ve never worked that way before,” she says. “Never having seen the hair before, its length, colour, texture. It was very exciting.” The group of stylists vying for the coveted chance to go to Paris had to create a hairstyle on a model they had never set eyes on before the day of the competition, with no mirror and within a limited amount of time. “You can prepare to a certain extent,” says Côté, “but you can never be sure of what you’ll get. I had brought with me extensions of different colours and textures and had something in mind, but I had left myself a lot of leeway for change.” After the whirlwind of activity in Côté’s life recently, she looks back and says, “It was a wonderful experience. I’m really happy to have lived it.” –TC

Qualified success FOR NEARLY 75 YEARS, COSMETOLOGISTS in British Columbia including hairstylists, nail techs and estheticians, were licensed under the Cosmetologists Act. The regulatory body, the Cosmetologist’s Association of BC (CABC), ceased to operate in 2003, as did mandatory licensing, due to the BC government’s repeal of the act. On June 13, 2003, the new Cosmetology Industry Association of BC (CIABC) was incorporated under the Society Act of British Columbia. The CIABC is a voluntary membership organization. Norma Ann Eaton is its chairperson and CEO. She has been lobbying for the licensing of cosmetologists since the beginning of 2004 on behalf of the membership. The Miscellaneous Statutes Amendment Act, Bill 16, which included an amendment to the Business Practices and Consumer Protection Act, was introduced in the British Columbia Legislative Assembly on October 27, 2005. Royal assent was received on November 24, 2005. Under the new legislation, cosmetologists will again be required to be qualified in order to work in the industry. “Currently the government is working with the industry to design a regulatory model and determine roles and responsibilities of the industry and the government. Decisions about these issues, including fees, and implementation dates have not yet been finalized,” says Eaton. The number and types of designations for licensing are currently being discussed. The CIABC was hoping to have 13 different certificates of qualification offered. The thinking was that someone who wanted to work only as a colourist would only be required to train for a certain number of hours to be qualified. Why learn to cut when all you want to do is colour? Eaton concedes it isn’t likely that there will be 13 categories of qualification, but more realistically six or seven amalgamated. She adds, “We believe the people in our industry need to be certified, the public needs to be protected and the people out there working in the industry need to be respected as professionals. Everyone knows that respect comes with certification.”—SP

s a l o n > march 06

Win A Trip To Barcelona Experience Global Salon Business Awards THE B.E.S.T. FOUNDATION INVITES YOU to visit its Web site at www.salonbusinessawards.com in order to enter a sweepstakes to WIN A FREE TRIP TO BARCELONA TO ATTEND THE 2006 GLOBAL SALON BUSINESS FORUM & AWARDS PROGRAM. The sweepstakes, which began January 1, 2006, and ends March 31, 2006, consists of one grand prize, which includes coach-class air travel for one person to Barcelona, Spain, four nights hotel accommodation at the Hilton Diagonal Mar Hotel June 3-6, 2006, and FREE admission to the 2006 Global Salon Business Forum & Awards program and events scheduled June 3-6, 2006. No purchase is necessary. Check out www. salonbusinessawards.com for details.

PHOTO COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

CIABC lobbying for professional respect

A palette of folkloric shades for nails and lips that is romantic, bold and alive. Inspired by the colors of Mexican culture. Designed to win over your corazón.

If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

HAIR LINES

Talking About Contessa Consumer media give great coverage again ONCE AGAIN, THE CONTESSAS have garnered some impressive editorial coverage in the consumer media. Internationally, from coast to coast and in many points in between, the media are giving headlines to the Contessas and interviewing Contessa finalists and winners for stories. Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Rasa Jurenas was interviewed and quoted for one story that actually ran in more than 15 papers across Canada. “With all the media attention, it has been wonderfully overwhelming,” says George Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon, winners of Canadian Salon Team of the Year. “It has had a huge impact on bringing in new business. I was amazed at how many of our clients actually knew what the Contessas were, and that we won. All our staff is so pumped from winning the Salon Team award. It’s been just great.” To date, we have received or seen coverage on several TV stations, including City TV evening and noon news, CityLine with Marilyn Denis, Rogers, TLN as well as the major dailies including, the Toronto Star, Toronto Sun, Vancouver Province, Calgary Herald and Calgary Sun and on Web sites such as behindthechair.com —SP

8 TIPS TO MAKE NEW CUSTOMERS LIFELONG CLIENTS Once you’ve got them through the door, what can you do to ensure they come back for more? WHEN GREETING A NEW CUSTOMER:

Guest services should stand up, smile, offer her hand and say, “Hi, my name is Suzie Service. Welcome to Ideal Salon & Spa.”

Take the client’s jacket and offer the client a refreshment, along with the new client form. Let him or her know the information on the client form will help you serve them better.

3. 4.

Guest services should formally introduce the new client to the technician.

Technicians should always take the time to go over the client form, clarify the information and choose one or two issues to discuss. Using a beauty prescription pad will help record your product recommendations.

A new client leaves with a copy of the beauty prescription and hopefully with the products you recommended. Ensure that all products have a water-resistant sticker with your logo, phone number and address. This acts as a daily reminder.

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Everyone loves gifts. Present a beautifully packaged gift your first-time clients at their time of checkout. Thank them for choosing your establishment.

Immediately mail the new client a thank-you card signed by each member of the team. The owner or manager’s business card should be included.

The next day, the owner or manager should phone and say, “My name is Suzie Service and I am the owner/ general manager of Ideal Salon & Spa. I know you have a lot of options for (the service experienced) and we appreciate your choosing Ideal Salon & Spa. We look forward to serving you again soon.”

These simple strategies are proven to impress new clients and increase retention and profits! Lori Colborne is president of LSL Marketing Consultants, a recognized keynote speaker, trainer and author of Innovative Marketing Made Easy.

Upcoming Great Lengths Education Seminars: MARCH 5-6 MONTREAL, QUEBEC MARCH 19-20 TORONTO, ONTARIO APRIL 23-24 TORONTO, ONTARIO MAY 7-8 VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA MAY 28-29 TORONTO, ONTARIO JUNE 4-5 QUEBEC CITY, QUEBEC JUNE 11-12 CALGARY, ALBERTA JUNE 25-26 TORONTO, ONTARIO JULY 9-10 HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA JULY 23-24 TORONTO, ONTARIO AUGUST 13-14 TORONTO, ONTARIO SEPTEMBER 10-11 TORONTO, ONTARIO SEPTEMBER 24-25 MONTREAL, QUEBEC OCTOBER 15-16 VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA OCTOBER 29-30 TORONTO, ONTARIO NOVEMBER 12-13 QUEBEC CITY, QUEBEC NOVEMBER 19-20 TORONTO, ONTARIO DECEMBER 10-11 TORONTO, ONTARIO

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement For information on becoming a Certified Great Lengths Extension Artist, call HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com

Great Lengths Hair Extensions uses only 'first quality' 100% human hair strands. No glues, waxes or related hair damage. Available in 35 hand-blended shades plus 14 “fashion” shades. Comfortable and completely natural to wear. Available only through Great Lengths Certified Extension Artists.

www.hscinternational.com Before Great Lengths

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HAIR LINES

day in and day out

Salon asks salons about music, merchandise and memorabilia

“A lot of us at the salon like the Killers and Arcade Fire.” Hollie Kendall, J.C. Salons

John Steinberg proves that he is a master of disguise and marketing once again with this fun 2005 holiday greeting card sent to his clients.

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“Alex Dinn, one of our stylists here at Hair Factory, has just released an album called Looking Out Looking In with his band A2Z. We’ve been playing it at the salon and have it on sale at reception. It’s fabulous! We’re so proud!” Karen Melay, Hair Factory Check out www.alex2zak.com

FERRI BY BABAK STEINBERG GREETING CARD COURTESY JOHN STEINBERG & ASSOCIATES LOOKING OUT LOOKING IN COVER COURTESY A2Z PRODUCT SHOTS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

“We listen to a lot of satellite radio. It’s always current and has a lot of options.” Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve

Aging Hair Is Not Age Related

NEW!

CP Anti Aging – Discover Younger Looking Hair Hair’s true age is determined by its length and exposure to Age-Accelerators like color processing, heat and harsh environmental elements. CP Anti Aging combines the newest Peptide Technology with Nutraceutical Plants & KB2 Healers to restore youthful health and radiance to hair exposed to AgeAccelerators. Hair has more shine, strength and elasticity, like when it was younger.

For your nearest L’ANZA distributor, call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (800) 661-1424

HAIR LINES

IDEA SEASON SPRING IS A SEASON OF NEW BEGINNINGS—and your Contessa entry is no exception. This is the time to brainstorm, visualize and get your creative juices flowing. All very exciting stuff. As usual, Beautynet.com/contessa is one of the best places to visit for all vital Contessa information. The official Contessa 18 entry form and updated rules and regulations will be posted soon, along with a list of seasoned photographers in your area. Also, be sure to peruse our new section, Contessa Gallery (page 67), where we present past collections that we’ve found inspirational. Be sure to study the work, read the advice and note what you like and dislike. Contact us with any questions you may have. Best of luck as you style your ideas into life.—MA

AVEDA ENVIRONMENTAL TIP REUSE! Provide a supply of reusable coffee mugs, plates and utensils, and an encourage their use. When having nts hme blis esta event catered, select e. that use reusable food service war home Remember to take your travel mug e. mut com for tomorrow morning’s

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s a l o n > march 06

HAIR AND MAKEUP RASA JURENAS PHOTO PAULA TIZZARD

Contessa 18 is on its way

The cure for your wintertime blues could be just a dream away. Now’s the time to slip off to a tropical island and that long-dreamed-of beach vacation.To make those dreams come true, even if you can’t get there, get your hands on Essie’s new Spring ‘06 shades: creamy neutrals and sheers that will bring a hint of warm breezes and lazy beach life to every real dream or dream vacation.

Sandy Beach

Room With a View

Pink Glove Service

Need a Vacation

My Private Cabana

Heavenly Sunset

Win a Tropical Vacation to the Cayman Islands! Enter wherever Essie polishes are sold, or online at www.essie.com

Call 1.8OO. 232 .1155 or visit www.essie.com Heavenly Sunset 542, My Private Cabana 543, Need a Vacation 544, Pink Glove Service 545, Room With a View 546, Sandy Beach 547

TANNING

DO YOUR CLIENTS KNOW ? Keeping informed about new research related to the benefits of sunlight is a great way to intelligently respond to your clients’ questions and create opportunities to broach the subject with them.

research arm of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, also recently reported that getting enough vitamin D, through diet or sunlight, could be important for oral health.

Regular sun exposure keeps the dentist away

Regular sun exposure also beats depression

A number of recent studies affirm that exposing your hands, arms and face to the sun for about 10 minutes a day can greatly benefit your smile. According to a paper published in the September issue of the Journal of Periodontology, Vitamin Periodontology D is just as essential as calcium for healthy teeth and bones, and the best source of vitamin D is believed to be the sun. According to a report on Medicalnewstoday.com published in September 2004, scientists suspect that vitamin D reduces the inflammatory response that leads to periodontal disease. The Agriculture Research Service, the

We all know the pitfalls of living in a country where we are subjected to long winters. But did you know that there’s an actual disorder known as Seasonal Affective Disorder, characterized by depression and lack of energy? The disorder, referred to as the “winter blues,” can be explained by a drop in serotonin, a brain chemical that regulates appetite, produces feelings of contentment and enhances mood. It is also known that light and warm temperatures promote normal brain activity. There are many theories about how light affects mood and sleep, and some of the treatments offered as a solution involve light therapy. Exposure to sunlight is known to stabilize the levels of serotonin in the brain.—TC

GOLDEN PRECISION

New laser technology improves spray tan accuracy THE AUSTRALIAN GOLD LASER SPRAYTANS SYSTEM is revolutionizing the way we spray. With its patented laser-guided delivery system, it guarantees the lowest overspray, most accurate body detailing and drip-free application. “This laser technology makes it unique in its market,” says Jennifer Homola, product brand manager for Australian Gold. The laser-guide applicators spray more accurately and use less product than traditional systems. “The two red laser dots come closer together and become one to tell you you’ve precisely targeted the area you’re spraying at the proper distance for nice, even coverage,” says Homola, adding that its additional gravity-fed technology also makes it easy to clean, since the solution is in a cup above the gun instead of having to be squeezed through it. The system also offers many alternative uses, since it can adopt different patterns: horizontal, vertical or diagonal. “It can be used to detail small areas, like tan lines, or just extremities; there’s a lot of flexibility.” The high-volume, low-pressure feature, its quiet delivery and its low maintenance commitment make it very appealing to the spa industry as well. The Spraytans system has also attracted Hollywood makeup artists. Both Fox Network’s The Swan and model/actress Amanda Bynes endorse the product.—TC

s a l o n > march 06

HAIR PAUL-DANIEL EMOND AND CHANTAL GAGNON PHOTOS LUC DELISLE CONTESSA 17 RODUCT PHOTO COURTESY AUSTRALIAN GOLD

New light on new research.

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NAILS

Outplay utplay Outwit & Outlast Custom-blended manicures survive the test of time by Morella Aguirre

“Begin by doing your prep work,” says Ellison. For this award-winning nail tech, prep work means performing a waterless manicure (see page 46), which ensures the longevity of your client’s manicure. “Choose a colour from the kit’s recipe cards and blend powders according to the instructions.”

“You need to be extra-meticulous when working around the cuticle and the sidewalls of the nail,” warns Ellison. “Do not push the colour into the skin. Generally, three beads of product are enough to cover each nail. Always place them close to the centre and work outwards. Apply the mixture as evenly as possible.”

s a l o n > march 06

“Using an acrylic artist’s brush and liquid monomer, blend a medium-dry mixture whith the selected powders. Pick up a small bead of your mixture and place it in the middle of the nail bed. Pat and spread the mixture outward, creating a polish-like look.”

Next, Ellison files nails to the desired shape. “I give them a light buff as well, just to smooth out the imperfections. Be careful not to take off too much product. You want to keep the same dimension of colour throughout. Usually, I apply cuticle oil when I’m doing the buffing. It allows you to see true depth of colour.” Apply your favourite topcoat. You may precede this with an exfoliating massage treatment.

PHOTOS COURTESY CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN

hat are two things your clients don’t like about nail polish? The first problem that comes to mind is likely its short lifespan. Just think, wouldn’t it be great to offer brides-to-be gearing up for honeymoon getaways an extra-durable option? Or what about those teenage girls living through the insanity of exam month? Shouldn’t they be spared the stress of chipped polish? Nail lacquer’s other little stumbling block is its pesky drying time, which many of your clients could easily do without. Although patience is a virtue, it’s a lesson that’s perhaps not best taught at the beauty salon. Fortunately, there is another option: the custom-blended manicure. Creative Nail Design’s Custom Blending Kit is a set of colour powder polymers that can be mixed together into a bevy of colour options. Containing keratin-bonding agents, these powders adhere to nails to give strength and durability in almost every colour imaginable, acting like a semi-permanent polish. Manicures will last for up to three weeks, when clients can opt to get the colour refilled, or removed altogether. Added bonus: no drying time. Clients can fidget, look for their keys and put on their jackets without worrying as soon as the polymer is applied. Jessica-Marie Ellison, 2006 Contessa Nail Art Technician of the Year, is a huge fan of these custom manicures. She considers them an extremely marketable and versatile service that can be suggested to myriad clients for both hands and toes. She takes us through the step-by-step process.

NAILS JESSICA-MARIE ELLISON MAKEUP GEORGIA SPYRA PHOTO BABAK

Technical A hievement Ac Jessica-Marie Ellison included custom-blended manicures as part of her winning Contessa 17 entry. She even sculpted the heart with black polymer powder mix.

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NAILS

by Morella Aguirre

DRYERGROUND

Clients soak up the benefits of waterless manicures

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at that point nail polish will start wearing away. A dry manicure will actually save your client’s polish about three days of wear.” “We have a lot of clients who come in on a weekly basis,” continues O’Reilly. “Soaking their hands in water every time they come in for a manicure will weaken their nails.” And don’t forget the damaging effect that too much exposure to water has on skin—just think of what doing too many dishes does to a pair of hands. Other benefits of dry manicures include time efficiency and sanitary advantages. Products like the ProLinc’s Be Natural Cuticle Eliminator need only about 45 seconds to work and don’t require water bowls, reducing risk of infections. Creative Nail Design’s Cuticle Eraser, another option for those making the switch to dry nail care, also contains a blend of alpha-hydroxy acids that will exfoliate and condition skin while preventing annoying hangnails.

▼

SOAKING FINGERTIPS DURING A MANICURE is a practice designed for one purpose only: to soften the cuticle. As effectively as a warm, soapy solution performs this basic function, soaking a client’s hands during a manicure also carries several unwanted—and unnecessary—secondary effects. For this reason, several top nail techs are hailing the benefits of dry manicures, a technique that uses cuticle removers rather than water to soften the skin around the nail. “Since nails are porous, they absorb water and expand during a regular manicure,” says Cathy O’Reilly, a nail technician at Toronto’s Lux-Spa. “If you apply polish while they are still expanded, it will begin to chip as soon as the nails dry and contract.” Jessica-Marie Ellison, who only offers dry manicures at her newly opened Star Beauty Bar, agrees. “Once you take nails out of water, they will shrink back to their normal size in about three hours, and

CREATIVE NAIL PRODUCTS COURTESY CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN CUCCIO PRODUCT COURTESY STAR NAIL BE NATURAL PRODUCT COURTESY PROLINC ESSIE PRODUCTS COURTESY ESSIE COSMETICS

BASIC PRINCIPLES 1.

Sanitize client’s hands. Try Creative Nail Design’s Coolblue hand sanitizer.

File nails and apply cuticle remover. Push back cuticles. Try the Cuccio Apple Cuticle Remover, the Cuticle Eraser from Creative Nail Design or ProLinc's Be Natural Cuticle Eliminator.

Massage, exfoliate and moisturize client’s hands. Try the Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil along with one of Essie’s moisturizing Smoothies or Cuccio’s Hand Anti-Oxidant Oil.

Clean nail plate and apply polish.

march 06 < s a l o n

MEN Redken for Men’s Retaliate—Now Retaliate— there’s a name they can relate to. A zinc-based shampoo for itchy, flaking scalps that fights, to relieves and controls the symptoms associated with dandruff while fortifying and energizing the hair.

FLAKES

you don’t want in your chair

HE CAUSES OF DANDRUFF run the gamut from heredity, poor hygiene and diet, allergic hypersensitivities and hormones to extreme cold weather combined with the dry indoor heat of winter, stress or anxiety and improper use of hair products. Many of you have clients who probably show up with it every time they sit in your chair. Women are more inclined to look for answers to the problem, while men aren’t always as concerned. Let’s face it, they just don’t pay close attention. Men need your advice and help. Fortunately, you no longer have to send them to the drugstore for you know what. These days, more professional hair care manufacturers are making formulations that you can sell to your clients to combat dandruff. Take a look at these four for starters. Your clients will thank you.—SP

American Crew’s anti-dandruff shampoo— Again zinc-based, but also containing menthol and even spearmint oil, which cool and refresh the scalp.

s a l o n > march 06

Mahdeen’s Medi-Dan Dandruff Treatment Shampoo— Controls stubborn dandruff and psoriasis symptoms. Follow up with Medi-Moist Hair and Scalp Moisturizer & Conditioner, the perfect finishing partners to MediDan Shampoo.

PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Goldwell’s Regulation line Anti-Dandruff Shampoo—Contains zinc and calming blend of chamomile and nettle milks to help ease itching and reduce scalp inflammation.

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Salon Magazine lunches with Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply by Morella Aguirre WHEN SALON MAGAZINE ASKED TORONTO BARBER AND BEAUTY SUPPLY’S president, David Kaufman, to bring along a few old photographs to our lunch rendezvous, we certainly didn’t expect such gung-ho delivery. The man came armed with the best presentation of show-and-tell that I had seen in a while, an impressive array of vintage collectables borrowed from the “third drawer down” of his father’s desk. Meeting at TBBS’s flagship store at the corner of Bay and Dundas, the downtown Toronto intersection that has housed Toronto Barber and Beauty since 1937, we decided on a little midday Hunan-style cuisine—an obvious choice given our proximity to TO’s bustling Chinatown. Representing TBBS were president David Kaufman, vice-presidents Joy Kaufman and Stephen Bercuson, VP of sales Terry O’Neil and purchaser Eddie Anuen. Chairman of the board Nat Kaufman and VP of finance David Ritchie weren’t able to make it. First there was a lot of reminiscing: Funny stories were told, photos were shared, and a brief history of TBBS was relayed. David recounted his grandfather’s departure from Poland and his eventual settlement in Toronto. He told us how his granddad began by selling straight razors to barbers, expanded his business with tonics and scissor sales, and later, as beauty salons began popping up, added the “Beauty” in Barber and Beauty. But as proud as the TBBS team is of their past, what really excites them is speaking about the present and looking into the future. Realizing that professional product retailing is integral to the hairstyling experience, and not an offshoot of a simple haircut, Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply is enthusiastic about the potential behind its new division, Liquid Luxuries. S Focusing on the exclusive distribution of PureOlogy and Alterna products, the creation of Liquid Luxuries is an important step in the evolution of this third-generation business, which now boasts six locations in the Toronto region. “When it comes to professional beauty products,” explains Terry O’Neil, “consumers are either luxury consumers or they are not consuming. Salons have also changed. Owners are making sizable investments—they are investors with solid business plans.” O’Neil is eager to move forward and ensure that Toronto Barber and Beauty meets the needs of this new generation of salon and client. And, considering the spirited presentation we got during our lunch, it’s safe to say that TBBS is welcoming the challenge. S

s a l o n > march 06

PHOTOS AND MEMORABILIA COURTESY TORONTO BARBER AND BEAUTY SUPPLY

Vintage photo of Toronto ABA

SHAPING HEADS

Design + Technology + Performance

Introducing Sterling Bravura WAHL Canada • 80 Orfus Road, Toronto, ON M6A 1M1 • Phone: 416.787.4500 • Fax: 416.787.0551 • For a distributor near you, Contact Wahl Canada

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SILKYSMOOTH Dikson’s & Co Finish Spray will polish off any hairstyle with clean and lustrous shine. Ranking “free” on the line’s hold hierarchy, this finishing product provides a natural hold that will not weigh hair down. Linseed extract, a vitamin-rich key ingredient, conditions and moisturizes as it nourishes. Salon’s Get the Goods Promo Attn: Mark Ryman Dikson Service 31 Progress Avenue #20—30 Scarborough, ON M1P 4S6 Fax: 416.298.7702

TIMELESS INNOVATION Exotic plant-derived ingredients and the most powerful antiaging complexes—like potent peptide technology—combine to make L’Anza’s new CP Anti-Aging products an exciting addition to restorative hair care. Fresh and deliciously fragrant, this line is made up of a White Tea Shampoo, Manuka Mud Conditioner and Neem Plant Silk Serum. Salon’s Get the Goods Promo Attn: Warren Kirkpatrick Key Beauty Systems 9-6325 11th Street SE Calgary, AB T2H 2L6 Fax: 403.258.0243 E-mail: warren@keybeautysystems.com

THE REALDEAL

Salon’s Get the Goods Promo Salon Attention: Janae Wilson E-mail: jwilson-hayden@pureology.com Be sure to include Salon’s Get the Goods Promotion in the subject line.

s a l o n > march 06

PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Kiss curly hair conundrums goodbye with PureOlogy’s RealCurl Curl Define Cr Crème. Offering your clientele PureOlogy’s trademark colour protection, RealCurl also smooths out annoying frizz with its rich, nourishing formula.

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TREND REPORT

Dresses and Tresses Salon Magazine’s 2006 Spring Trend Report

Brains and beauty. Hard work and

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE COURTESY GORGEOUS PR COURTESY AVEDA COURTESY L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL COURTESY TREVOR SORBIE

creativity.Winning combinations, to say the least. But here’s the partnership we know really makes you tick: hair and fashion. In Salon Magazine’s first-ever Spring Trend Report, we unite two of your favourite things in blissful matrimony. From colourful couture and stylish soldiers to angelic femininity and shapely geometry, spring 2006 has something to inspire every salon-goer out there. COMPILED BY MORELLA AGUIRRE AND TINA CHRISTOPOULOS.

march 06 < s a l o n

TREND REPORT

1. She’s a Rainbow

PAT MCDONAGH

ARTHUR MENDONÇA

FALBALA

From eye-popping yellows to electric blues and cherry reds, the runways were full of impossible-to-ignore colour.

Hair Translation…

The expressive hues of L’Oré L’Or al Professionnel Geometric Colours Collection. 1. Golden and iridescent highlights are paired with a bold, geometric cuts. Wide bangs are contrasted with bluntly cut long hair, while a choppy fringe lines the season’s most desired reinvention, the bob. Look for the trendy violet in L’Oréal Professionnel’s LUOCOLOR collection. 2., 3. Red, caramel and gold highlights are applied to asymmetrical bangs and strong architectural cuts.

Makeup tip: We’re seeing strong red lips for spring, reflective of the Gucci and Prada runways. You can also play with eye shadow colours at night by picking up a colour from an accessory, like turquoise shoes, or even mix it up and contrast a turquoise accessory with purple eyes. —Andrea Claire Walmsley, makeup artist for Canadian Idol. Photo Barbara Cole Photography Model Marla, Elite Model Management

s a l o n > march 06

Makeup option: The vibrant hues offered by True Makeup.

RUNWAY PHOTOS: ARTHUR MENDONÇA AND PAT MCDONAGH BY MICHAEL BANASIAK PINK TARTAN COURTESY PINK TARTAN GEOMETRIC COLOURS COLLECTION AND L’ORÉAL PRODUCTS COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TRUE MAKEUP BY CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

PINK TARTAN

ARTHUR MENDONÇA

On the Runway….

2. Feminine Wiles

RUNWAY PHOTOS MICHAEL BANASIAK PURITY COLLECTION COURTESY TREVOR SORBIE PRODUCT PHOTOS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

ANDY THÊ-ANH

PAUL HARDY

PARASUCO

DAVID DIXON

On the Runway…. Primps and frills, satin and lace, everything womanly and feminine grace.

Hair Translation… The angelic softness of the Trevor Sorbie Purity Collection To create this look, Trevor Sorbie centre-parted the one-length medium-textured hair before blow-drying it smooth with a bristle brush. Next, Sorbie curled, or as the British call it “tonged”, the hair with an iron.

Sorbie took 2-inch sections and clipped each up out of the way as he worked. Once all the hair was tonged, he released the sections and raked through the hair with his ﬁngers.

Nail option: OPI Mexico collection Makeup tip: Beautiful long eyelashes enhance the season’s flirtatious fashions. Try Ardell fake lashes for the widest variety and easy application.—Andrea Claire Walmsley A pale lip in either peach or pink.—Tana D’amico

march 06 < s a l o n

TREND REPORT

3. The Shape of Things

This collection by Louise Smith from Salon Essensuals in England illustrates the fact that clearly defined forms and cuts fit the season’s geometric trend, with a strong fringe stealing the show. Clean bobs, and a lot of texture keep the styles modern but classic. The solid colors in rich auburns, chocolates and blondes don’t compete with the beautifully structured cuts.

Sienna Miller is sure to spark a trend with her new short and sassy 60s Edie Sedgewick haircut. You can just feel the late 50s, early 60s vibe creeping up on us. —Tana D’amico, Judy Inc.

Nail option: White polymer powder, part of the Acrylic Nail System from Quest by Perfection! Makeup option: Deep black liners and shadows from Bed Head Makeup tip: Create a strong geometric eye, not necessarily with dark pigments, but with more rectangular shapes slightly blended. —Andrea Claire Walmsley, makeup artist for Canadian Idol.

s a l o n > march 06

Strong geometric shapes and contrasts, like the trend towards black and white strutted down the runway during Fashion Week.

RUNWAY PHOTOS: DAVID DIXON, BECKERMAN ANDY THÊ-ANH (FAR LEFT) BY MICHAEL BANASIAK DENIS GAGNON AND ANDY THÊ-ANH (THIRD FROM THE LEFT) BY JIMMY HAMELIN PROVOCATEUR COLLECTIONS COURTESY GORGEOUS PR, PHOTO MARK BOND PRODUCT SHOTS CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Hair Translation… The bobs and bangs in Louise Smith’s Provocateur Collecton

DENIS GAGNON

BECKERMAN

ANDY THÊ-ANH

DAVID DIXON

ANDY THÊ-ANH

On the Runway….

IZZY CAMILLERI

PARASUCO

MACKAGE

IZZY CAMILLERI

DAVID DIXON

Ladies took over the army in many a designer’s mind. PARASUCO

RUNWAY PHOTOS: PARASUCO, DAVID DIXON AND IZZY CAMILLERI BY MICHAEL BANASIAK MACKAGE BY JIMMY HAMELIN EVOLUTION-REVOLUTION PHOTOS AND AVEDA HAIR PRODUCTS COURTESY AVEDA AVEDA MAKEUP BY CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

4. Lady Soldier

Hair Translation… The commanding colours and compelling styling in Aveda’s Evolution-Revoloution Collection. 1. Cut without hard lines or rough edges by Aveda Stylist Dennis Clendennen (Houston, Texas), these curvaceous locks let colours melt into one another, generating a feeling of harmony that is as beautiful as it is powerful. 2. This style plays with the notion of romantic contradictions. Stylist Dylan Sit (Toronto) creates a strong cut that curves softly, while colourist Sue Thompson

(Calgary) places contrasting colours in an inventive and unconventional pattern that is somehow still feminine and inviting. 3. Once again, stylist Dylan Sit and colourist Sue Thompson team up to create a strong cut with striking colour. Aveda products were used throughout.

Makeup option: Aveda’s Spring/Summer 2006 Face Color Collection

Makeup tip: We see a soft golden cheek, not bronze but a pink. —Andrea Claire Walmsley Photo Barbara Cole Photography Model Marla, Elite Model Management

march 06 < s a l o n

SCENE

HAIR RAISING LONDON

Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

From Aveda’s Antoinette Beenders to the TIGI International creative team, Vidal Sassoon, Mahogany and Patrick Cameron, over 42, 000 attendees at this year’s Salon International in London were wowed by presentations of collections, educational sessions and the latest in products, cut, colour and style. The buzz in the hall of hair was electric. Salon International is the largest and most exciting hair and beauty show in the UK. With many of the exhibitors putting on huge crowd-pleasing, entertaining and educational live presentations, visitors from all over the world, including Canada, get inspired and motivated by the vast array of work. A massive staging at the Excel in the Docklands, the three-day event held in October is supported by top manufacturers like Aveda, Goldwell, Schwarzkopf Professional, TIGI, Toni & Guy, Whal and Wella. London will always be a hair-raising kind of place. S

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PHTOS JAMIE CARROLL FOR SALON INTERNATIONAL

INTERNATIONAL INSPIRATIONS

march 06 < s a l o n

SCENE

FAMILY GATHERING Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

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THE MINNEAPOLIS CONVENTION CENTER was abuzz with excitement and creativity October 16-18 for the 14th Aveda Congress Festival. More than 4, 000 beauty professionals from 10 countries experienced techniques and creative presentations put on by Aveda artists and partners from around the world. The theme for Aveda Congress 2005 was Beauty. Fashion. Wellness. Art. “Congress is unique in the world’s hair industry. Not only is it a world-class hair show, but it is also an immersion into the deep culture of Aveda and an opportunity to make enlightening connections,” said Dominique Conseil, Aveda president. “Congress is the gathering of the Aveda tribe, a place for artistic inspiration, creative expression, discovery of self and care for others.”

PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA

Beauty. Fashion. Wellness. Art

Explore. Experience. Expand.

American Crew Education Program 2006 For more information on American Crew education programs, contact us at 1-800-598-2739 or education@americancrew.com The foundation of building knowledge is established by immersing yourself in a laboratory of experimentation – a laboratory where expanding your potential is of the utmost importance and nurtured with integrity. By exploring new opportunities for discovery and growth, you are free to express your intellect and purpose. We honor expression with a promise: our experience is your laboratory. In it, you can explore your passion, experience professional growth and expand your potential. There is always room in our laboratory of experience. Welcome to EXP.

SCENE

PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA

“Congress is the epitome of everything that we strive for at Aveda. We bring our global network together with some of the most talented and innovative artists in the beauty industry.” Virginia Meyer, vicepresident education for Aveda. S

s a l o n > march 06

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Pure Design ITALIAN INSPIRED

ABA SHOW Montreal booth # 2201 Vancouver booth # 526 Toronto Edmonton

collection

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Edwin Johnston on his knockout collection

CONTESSA GALLERY

edited by Stephen Puddister

OR THE PAST THREE YEARS, I HAVE

been driven to create the strongest collections possible. Each shoot, I have wanted to push the boundaries and come up with something unique, fresh and inspiring. The creative process in itself is so important—the buzz at the shoot, the pressure. I love it, it’s a real high for me. I also love creating a history of what I have achieved in hairstyling. It keeps me from becoming stagnant or simply resting on my laurels. I am driven to continue contributing to the industry in whatever way I can. The boxing theme came from a general increase in the sport’s popularity. Movies, TV and fashion shows have taken their cues from the sport. I also liked the “THE IDEA HERE WAS TO CREATE AN ASYMMETRIC FEELING WITH SOFTER ENDS. THE HAIR WAS CUT DRY WITH A

idea of beautiful women looking a little rougher than usual.

VARIETY OF SLICING AND DEEP POINT. CUTTING TECHNIQUES.” HAIR COLOUR: FIONA JOHNSTON

PHOTOGRAPHY: LEDA & ST-JACQUES MAKEUP: JULIE BEGIN WARDROBE: ISABELLE LONG STYLING PRODUCTS: KMS CALIFORNIA HAIR COLOUR: GOLDWELL

march 06 < s a l o n

CONTESSA GALLERY

“I ALSO WANTED MOVEMENT—TRYING TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES OF THE STATIC HAIR SHOT. I WANTED THE HAIR TO LOOK ALIVE. REAL. BOXERS ARE ALWAYS MOVING, SO HAIR COLOUR: FIONA JOHNSTON

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▼

THIS TIED IN WELL WITH THE CONCEPT.”

CONTESSA GALLERY

“THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT HERE WAS THE BOXING HEADGEAR. THAT WAS SUCH A FRESH IDEA—COVERING THE HEAD FOR A HAIR SHOT WITH A PROP. THE RESULTING LOOK IS ONE OF MY FAVOURITES.” HAIR COLOUR: FIONA JOHNSTON

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CONTESSA GALLERY THE WIG WAS A FRESH CONCEPT. I CUT AN AFRO WIG WITH CLIPPERS TO CREATE A CLEAN, FRIZZY TEXTURE. THE MIDDLE PORTION OF THE STYLE WAS LEFT NATURAL. THE OPPOSING ENDS WERE BRUSHED TO CREATE AN INTERESTING TEXTURE.

HAIR COLOUR: FIONA JOHNSTON “THE ATTITUDE THE MODELS BROUGHT THROUGH IN THE SHOOT COULD ONLY HAVE BEEN ACHIEVED WITH PROFESSIONAL GIRLS. SPENDING MONEY ON THE MODELS WAS IMPORTANT. THE FINAL KEY ELEMENT WAS, OF COURSE, LEDA & ST-JACQUES.THE LIGHTING WAS DESIGNED TO SUGGEST A DARK BOXING GYM FEELING WITHOUT REALLY GOING THERE.”

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FEATURE THE SOPHISTICATE INSPIRED BY GRECO-ROMAN DESIGNS, THE SOPHISTICATE BLENDS SIMPLE LINES AND ELEGANT DRAPING TO CREATE A LONG HAIRSTYLING FIT FOR THE RED CARPET.

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elegantlyFEMININE Sencience Liquid Luxury debuts its L’Élégance collection Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

Hair Martin Hillier

Photo Hama Sanders

“We are a world in conflict,” begins Martin Hillier, creative director of Senscience Liquid Luxury. “History shows us that during times of struggle, there are two trains of thought in fashion and entertainment. There can be a tendency towards austerity, with greys and sombre tones predominating on the runways. The other route during these times is escapism, glamour and a feeling of hope—the more optimistic side of things. The L’Élégance collection has been designed with optimism as its focus.” To create the optimism of glamour and panache, Hillier and the Senscience team merged the glitz of old Hollywood with the boldness of the 1980s and the sophistication of fashion’s latest and most acclaimed collections. Hair is soft and elegant, shiny and exquisite, healthy and luxurious. Hillier makes note of “the power of the product,” an extremely important element in creating the overall look and feel of the collection’s graceful style. march 06 < s a l o n

FEATURE

THE SULTRY CASCADING CURLS DESIGNED FOR LONGLASTING WEAR EPITOMIZE THE DRAMATIC SENSUALITY THAT WOMEN CRAVE AND THE ENDURANCE OF STYLE THEY REQUIRE.

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FEATURE

THE SIREN TOUSLED AND SEXY, THIS MODERN TAKE ON THE CLASSIC CHIGNON ADDS SOFTNESS AND EASE AS IT FRAMES AND CONTOURS THE FACE.

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FEATURE FEATURE

FinishingTouch Lisa Shepherd captures British Hairdresser of the Year 2005 Text by Morella Aguirre

“I wanted to produce a collection that had the ‘touchable’ factor,” says Lisa Shepherd, “so that people would literally want to reach into the photo and touch the hair.” Brilliantly, and with her appropriately titled Touchable collection—which won Shepherd the coveted title of British Hairdresser of Year 2005—she exemplifies this objective beautifully. By focusing on hairstyling’s finishing details, Shepherd manages to visually convey the feel of supple, succulent hair through still photography.

HAIR LISA SHEPHERD MAKEUP KYLIE O’TOOLE WARDROBE HARRIET COTTERIL PHOTOS ANDREW O’TOOLE PRODUCTS CLYNOL AND SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

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FEATURE

“The biggest trend in hair this coming year will be the finishing.” –LS

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PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF TIGI (MODEL), PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANTHONY MASCOLO/ROBERTO AGUILAR, HAIR: ANTHONY MASCOLO/NICK IRWIN, MAKE-UP: PAT MASCOLO; ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY CREATIVE NAIL (NAILS); THOM LANG (POWDER)

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FEATURE

“Whether it’s curly or straight, hair should look beautifully conditioned and shiny and have that touchable factor.”–LS

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ESTHETICS

DESTINATION Its all about the services offered

spas

by Stephen Puddister and Tina Christopoulos

Highfields Country Inn & Spa

Ancient treatments score high “Life is too fast-paced, and people need an escape for a night or two to recharge their batteries,” says Lisa Schiavo, RMT and spa director for Highfields Country Inn & Spa, an hour northeast of Toronto. “Most clients are looking for good food, nice accommodations, interesting local activities, but most importantly, the treatment services we offer, so that they can go home totally relaxed. It’s about lifestyle choices and balance.” Just back from the Middle East, every year Schiavo (the name means “slave” in Italian) travels to a different part of the world to study spa treatments. She says Highfields business has grown exponentially and with a more dedicated long-term client base in the past few years. Clientele is split just about 50-50 men and women. Plenty of star power has shown up over the years, too, including Ray Romano, Geena Davis, Christian Slater, Julianne Moore, Richard Dreyfuss, Holly Hunter, Julia Styles, Maura Tierney, Marcia Gay Harden and more. “Because it is small and private, the women really like it and phone from the set of shooting a movie in Toronto or the area,” says Schiavo. So what are the top treatments offered at Highfields? Most clients want a combination of different treatments, with massage as a base. Like massage and hypnosis for stress management and relaxation, or massage and acupuncture, or Thai massage with Swedish after—an hour on the mat and an hour on the table. Schiavo discovered Indian head massage, dating back some 4,000 years, in a small fishing village in southern India. “I noticed men getting their hair cut on the corner and they would always get a head massage (shoulders, neck and scalp). I ended up having one in a salon and I was hooked. It’s very calming for the person with the hyperactive mind—it rebalances.” The benefits are improved blood flow to the head and neck area, which increases the distribution of oxygen and nutrients to the tissues. It also stimulates the lymphatic nodes.

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Stone therapy goes beyond the physical experience of typical massage.

Anti-Aging Full Body Treatment clients relax and rejuvenate while the therapist works on the body, mind and spirit. It combines customized cleansing and exfoliating products, essential vitamins, minerals and normal baric oxygen.

Himalayan Body Treatment is based on the principles of Ayurveda— meaning the science of life or longevity. The treatment deeply cleanses and purifies, balancing and soothing the body while relaxing the mind. The client lies inside a tent into which steam and essential oils are pumped; the body sweats out toxins. It ends with a warm Shirodhara bath for the forehead, a popular treatment for different types of hair loss.

The tipi is used in the summer months for treatments like reflexology, reiki, hot stone and aromatherapy massage.

EXTERIOR, STONE THERAPY AND TIPI PHOTOS COURTESY ONTARIOSFINESTSPAS.COM PHOTOGRAPHER CURTIS TRENT OTHERS COURTESY HIGHFIELDS

HERE’S NO DENYING THE POPULARITY OF the destination spa these days. The underlying draw is what they can do for their client’s well-being. What’s on the menu? Here we showcase one in Ontario and one in Quebec.

Guests enjoy the outdoor jacuzzi

Modern cutting-edge design creates an escape-like feel

PHOTOS NICOLAS RUEL WATERFALL PHOTO THOMAS ASSELIN HAIR FRANK CINI MAKEUP CHERYL GUSHUE PHOTO DOUG MCMILLAN CONTESSA 17

Balnea makes its mark in Québec Spa Balnea opened its doors just a few months ago and can already boast a steady clientele—it’s growing in popularity among Quebecquers and out-of-towners alike. Stéphanie Émond is the mastermind behind its modern cuttingedge design and escape-like feel. With the expertise of Nomade Architecture, she was able to construct the perfect getaway for her clients. “It feels like we’re somewhere in Finland, or some other Nordic escape,” she says, directing the eye to the breathtaking beauty of Bromont-sur-le-Lac’s sprawling mountaintop view. Even on a cold January Sunday afternoon, when the temperature won’t inch higher than minus 15 Celsius, the newbies and converts alike come asking for the unlimited-access thermal experience, a communal area of the spa that includes a Turkish bath, panoramic saunas, outdoor Jacuzzis, heated terraces, cold waterfalls, coldwater basins and a solarium with a fireplace. When asked what prompted her to open this business, Émond, who hails from the fashion and event-planning world, says, “Having spent years travelling in Europe and living in Spain, I saw so many beautiful spas, and I realized that we needed something like this in Québec. People want it.” Balnea offers a full-service menu, with original treatments and packages inspired by the spa’s treatment line, Sundari, an Ayurvedic-based Indian line. Other than the traditional body exfoliations, body wraps, massages and facials, Émond and her staff have also developed two programs that target specific needs: the slimming cure and the postural cure. The first consists of 10 sessions, with different body wraps, exfoliation, massages and pressotherapy as well as a nutritional consultation that aims to help clients tone their bodies. The latter consists of nine sessions with Swedish massage, chiropractic adjustments and stretching and flexibility programs. Other popular treatments are the chromotherapy, which adjusts to physiological and emotional needs and works well as an additional service to the massage, and stone therapy, which can be done with both hot and cold stones. “People will spend less in other areas of their life nowadays and splurge to take care of their bodies and well-being,” says Émond. “It feels really good to watch them leave here completely recharged and rejuvenated.” S

The view from behind the waterfalls

A yoga class in a serene environment

A panoramic sauna experience. march 06 < s a l o n

BODY BASICS

LASHING OUT W

inter may be retreating, but highly dramatic eyes—last season’s cornerstone look—continue to dominate fashion trends. That’s good news for salons offering clients semi-permanent lashes. The precision-applied extensions—which are attached

that the glue used to secure their Permalash brand extensions doesn’t actually touch the skin but, rather, sits at the very end of the hair follicle. As with anything focused on the super-sensitive eye area,

individually and not as a strip, as with old-school false eyelashes— can last days or weeks. Clients seeking a striking look for a wedding or special occasion are served alongside those wanting a subtly enhanced fuss-free boost for daywear or vacation. Wearability, durability and versatility are key selling points of semi-permanent lashes, according to Stacey Danyluk, education coordinator for Esthetics Plus/LCN Canada. “You can get the individual lashes much closer to the natural lashes and you can create more dimension,” she says, noting

cleanliness and sanitation are paramount; Danyluk stresses that tweezers used in the application should be sterilized. Adds Andrea Theodoropoulos, educator and account executive with Intercosmetics, which produces the Lash It line of extensions, “We teach our students to first cleanse the eyes and to screen for allergies and infections. They also need to be intuitive—who is inclined to play with their lashes or is sensitive? Those people should be gently guided away from semi-permanent lashes.”— KH

❁

��

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PHOTO COURTESY ESTHETICS PLUS

Making the most of eyelash extensions

the JIE experience Celebrating a decade of success

“I

can’t remember the moment I decided to become a hairstylist,” says Jie Matar. “Pursuing my passion for hair was not ever a choice, but more of a calling,” he adds, using a religious term that is perhaps meant to denote his profound respect for the art of hairstyling. In fact, Matar has been avidly marketing his adoration of hair for years now, not only through the successful branding of his salon— now in its 10th year—but also through his imagery, products and the advocacy of his eponymous Jie-ified philosophy. Indeed, Matar personifies the JIE brand. He is Jie-ified. And, furthermore, he is wildly successful at it. Commanding an elite clientele, working as a contributing stylist on several television programs and having a solid session portfolio, Matar’s carefully crafted image has obviously paid off handsomely. To the world he presents himself as a passionate artist who loves hair the way a parent loves a child. In this way, Matar has created a persona, a frame of mind and a brand—what he deems being Jie-ified. The end result reflects what everyone

s a l o n > march 06

by Morella Aguirre in the salon industry aspires to be: Matar doesn’t sell cuts and colours; he sells an experience. That’s not to say that his love of hair isn’t sincere. His devotion to the industry goes far beyond ambitious self-promotion. Still the only hairstylist to present a runway collection at Toronto Fashion Week, Matar also deserves recognition for actively promoting the fact that “hair is fashion,” a powerful statement that also serves as the title for his spring/summer 2006 collection. Creatively, Matar is a child of our global culture. He draws inspiration from his extensive travels and by observing the smallest intricacies in the people he meets and the art and architecture he encounters. Very respectfully, but still in a matter-of-fact way, Matar states: “The world is my supermarket and inspiration.” Nature also plays a role in shaping Matar’s work and philosophy. For his aforementioned spring/summer collection, Matar drew from “images of spring change and renewal,” as well as “the natural beauty of man and woman.” Add to this an organic product line that is currently in the works, and one starts to realize that there is certainly more to being Jie-ified than first meets the eye. S

PHOTOS THIS PAGE HENRY LIN OPPOSITE PAGE ALL HAIR JIE MATAR (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) FIRST TWO PHOTOS HENRY LIN FOLLOWING TWO PHOTOS DAVID MOO KING, MOOISHI FINAL TWO PHOTOS EDDIE FIGUEROA

PROFILE

Matar has created a persona, a frame of mind and a brand—what he deems being Jie-ified

march 06 < s a l o n

PHOTOS SOFIE PURBOJO

INTERIORS

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Out of this World

Vancouver’s Satellite Salon by Colette Wright

ulie Matson is proof that taking big risks can be one of the most rewarding experiences in life. Two years ago, the thought of flying solo and opening up a salon was daunting. “I was nervous. I didn’t go to business school, but it was time to take a step after working 14 years in the hair industry.” Two years later, the 31-year-old is not only a master stylist—she is celebrating her first anniversary as owner of Vancouver’s Satellite Salon. “What I find unbelievable is that the journey has been a smooth ride.” Matson admits she knew from the start the kind of design she wanted to create. “I think by observing and learning from past employers I was able to figure out my plan of action.” When asked how she came up with the name of her salon, Matson is almost embarrassed to confess the truth. “I fell asleep one evening and in my dream the name of my business was Satellite Salon. I woke up and said, ‘that’s a great name.’” Satellite Salon is 800 square feet located at the back of a newly renovated heritage building in an up-and-coming downtown hot spot. Described as modern, it also has the cozy comforts of an intimate salon. “It’s more like a hangout, and I appreciate how the surroundings make new clients feel calm rather than intimidated or anxious.” Matson says she thrives on the incredible amount of natural light. “The only downside was the view from the windows. Rather than hide it with blinds, my designer, Matthew Quetton, used frosted white circles as camouflage. It connects nicely with the white circular chairs and atmospheric theme.” A fan of soft, warm colours, Matson promised herself she wouldn’t use black. “It’s too harsh for me. I wanted the look of walnut browns mixed with blues and whites. It gives off a relaxing and positive ambience.” While trying to design a modern salon in an old building, her designer illuminated all four sides of the original brick wall softening its look. “It’s aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and a day doesn’t go by that a client doesn’t have to take a second look because it appears as though it’s the building next door,” laughs Matson. As a new business owner, Matson is also an international educator with Lakmé Cosmetics, a new line from Spain. “It just arrived in Canada and it carries a full spectrum of hair care products. As a stylist you want a variety to satisfy customer’s needs.” S NAME

Satellite Salon

ADDRESS

#130-319 West Pender Street, Vancouver, BC

OWNER

Julie Matson

SALON OPENED

March 17, 2005

SIZE

800 square feet

NUMBER OF STAFF

BREAKDOWN

6 cutting stations

INTERIOR DESIGNER

Matthew Quetton

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT Cutting chairs from Gamma Italy; reception sofa custom designed by Matthew Quetton; vintage hair-washing basins RETAIL HAIR

Lakmé Cosmetics and PureOlogy

PHONE

604.696.5353

HOURS OF OPERATION

Tues & Wed 10-7, Thurs & Fri 11-8, Sat 9-5

WEB SITE

www.satellitesalon.com march 06 < s a l o n

HOT PRODUCTS

HOTPICKS by Morella Aguirre

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FEEFIND EGOS Goldwell’s newest addition to the Trendline of retail products is Super Ego, a moulding gum with a lighter texture than a paste but more solid than a cream. Creates a hold that lasts until it’s shampooed out, with no leftover residue, buildup, dulling or flaking. Leaves hair with a natural, shiny finish. Clients will be all over this one for that quick fix and fashionable look. For info visit www.goldwellusa.com

BOTANICAL GARDENS The new KMS California line could almost double as a summery culinary delight. Infused with ingredients like basil, cilantro, eucalyptus and cinnamon, this sweetsmelling product range is as fresh and inviting as it is functional. Allowing you to choose a shine/hold combination ideal for each of your clients, KMS California is easy to use and easy to retail. For info visit www.kmshaircare.com

ISLAND BEAUTY Inspired by the turquoise waters and sun-drenched shores of the Cayman Islands, Essie’s Spring 2006 collection will take your clients on a virtual tour of sandy beaches and heavenly sunsets. Pinks, rosy-mauves and sheer blushes make this collection an ultra-feminine delight, perfect for both fingertips and toes. Offers dressed up and dressed down options. For info visit www.essie.com

LOOKIN’ SMOOTH Schwarzkopf has expanded its BC Bonacure line to include Smooth Control Shampoo, Conditioner and Shine Serum. All three products contain BC hairtherapy’s advanced Amino Formula, which includes glycine, silicone and apricot oils. This series offers frizzy, unmanageable hair a smooth alternative to damaged, unsightly tresses and helps prevent breakage. For Info visit www.schwarzkopfprofessional.com

PHOTOS MICHAEL GRAYDON

SHINING FINISH Since so many of today’s hairstyles are about body and finishing, Paul Mitchell is arming you with Thicken Up, a new styling liquid that offers body and lustrous shine. Formulated with thickening conditioners and providing UV protection—a must for the upcoming summer season—Thicken Up can be applied before or after drying hair. For info visit www.paulmitchell.com

Dare to Dream!

“Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy 1-800 661 6292 Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

E R O EA

Visit our showroom: 1-800-661-6292 • www.uvalux.com • sales@uvalux.com • Toronto 905-881-9046 Montreal 877-660-6292 • Calgary 403-274-1532 • Vancouver 604-240-3516 • Woodstock Support Centre 519-421-1212 *some conditions and limits apply. Limited time offer.

Uvalux International Inc.

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COLOUR WONDERFUL Aveda has divided its spring/ summer makeup collection into three captivating colour palettes. Air Spun is natural and angelic—golden pearls, sun-kissed peaches and pearly pinks. Under Color Washed, you’ll find playful and bold colours like berries, plums and fuchsias. The Sun Spiced range includes warm and exotic coppers and tropical citrus shades. For info visit www.aveda.com

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DOUBLE BRONZE To kick off tanning season, Supre is introducing Carnivale Dual Bronzer, a super-rich, super-intense conditioning tanning lotion. Containing optimum levels of DHA selftanning bronzers, Carnivale allows skin to darken even after sun exposure. Its oxygen conversion process raises oxygen levels on skin and transforms it to hydrating moisture to prepare and condition skin. For info call 800.825.7020

SPRAY SHINE Redken has re-energized hairspray with its new collection of five sprays for high-fashion results. Anti-frizz polymers provide 24-hour humidity resistance and eight-hour control. Fastdrying, water-free formulas, shine-charged technology and UV protection make this a multifunctional line. The range of hold has something to please every client. For info visit www.redken.ca

NEEDED FUEL Fudge Fuel gives your clients the versatility they need. Ideal for all hair types, Fuel can be applied to wet hair, as a blow-drying and cutting lotion, and to dry hair as a long-lasting finishing product. Offering a light, weightless hold and natural shine, Fuel also nourishes as it styles, sealing split ends and taming frizzies and flyaways. For info visit www.fudge.com

NEW JOY Joico is reinventing itself with new packaging and new products. Body Luxe Design Foam is a heat-activated styling foam that protects against thermal damage. Curl Activator Revitalizing Spray encourages lightweight, bouncy curls. Both products contain the trademarked Quadramine Complex, an exclusive blend of positively charged, lowmolecular-weight-and-size proteins. For info visit www.joico.com S

EVENTS

MARCH 2006 THE SHOW CIRCUIT The ABA show season is in bloom. First up, Montreal ABA, followed by the Vancouver and Toronto shows. For info visit Allied Beauty Association’s Web site at www.abacanada.com. MONTREAL ABA March 5—6, Palais des Congrès VANCOUVER ABA March 19—20, Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre TORONTO ABA April 9—10, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SERVICES PRESENTS: All About Beauty Show, March 12, Shaw Conference Centre, Edmonton, AB Info: 800.642.3818

HAIR CLASSES COLLEGA FOR AVEDA PRESENTS: Aveda Collection—Cut Only and Hair Colour Systems, March 5, Toronto, ON Aveda Collection—Colour Only and Hair Colour Solutions, March 6, Toronto, ON; Creating Texture: Aveda Retexturizing, March 12—13, Vancouver, BC Innovative Cutting, March 19—20, Toronto, ON Hair Colour Systems, March 19, Vancouver, BC Hair Colour Solutions, March 20, Vancouver, BC Styling & Creative Imagery, March 26—28, Toronto, ON

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Innovative Cutting, March 26—27, Vancouver, BC Info: 800.689.1066 GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Trilogy, March 6—7, Vancouver, BC Chinese Trilogy, March 6 and March 13, Vancouver, BC Trilogy, March 12—13, Toronto, ON; Haircolour Boot Camp, March 12—13, Toronto, ON Textural Cutting & Trends, March 13, Vancouver, BC Men’s Foundations, March 19—20, Toronto, ON Elumen: Un-Edited, March 19—20, Toronto, ON Correct it Creatively, March 26—27, Toronto, ON Info: 877.670.6767 (Toronto) 800.663.9222 (Vancouver) GREAT LENGTHS PRESENTS: Regional Training Seminars, March 5—6, Montreal, QC March 19—20, Toronto, ON Info: 800.461.9302 REDKEN PRESENTS: Everything’s Included, March 6, Victoria, BC Advanced Colour Placement & Technique, Comox, BC Creative Guy, Kamloops, BC Do It Up, March 13, Calgary, AB Creative Guy—Cut & Colour, Red Deer, AB Advanced Colour Placement & Technique, Grande Prairie, AB Colour Magic, March 26—27, Saskatoon, SK Hands-on Haircolour, March 27—29, Toronto, ON Advanced Colour Placement & Techniques, March 6, Moncton, NB and March 20, Fredericton, NB Redken Specialist—Part One: Colour, March 12—13, Halifax, NS

Cut and Know Why!, March 19—20, Yarmouth, NS Redken Specialist—Part Two: Design, March 26, Halifax, NS Advanced Colour Placement & Technique, March 5, Charlottetown, PEI For info contact your local Redken distributor. SCHWARZKOPF PRESENTS: Colour Complete, March 6—10, Mississauga, ON Essential Looks Trend Release, March 27—29, Mississauga, ON Info: 800.463.3081 Evolution of Colour, March 27—28, Barrie, ON Info: 705.737.4445 Evolution of Colour, March 27—28, London, ON Info: 519.668.2124 Evolution of Colour, March 27—28, Ottawa, ON Info: 613.723.7850 Corrective Colour, March 6, Kitchener, ON Info: 519.576.6242 The Law of Colour, March 28, Vancouver, BC Info: 604.871.0222 Master Class, March 27—29, Regina, SK Info: 306.227.4357 Master Class, March 27—29, Regina, SK Info: 306.525.9944 The Law of Colour, March 13, Winnipeg, MB 204.774.6685 Master Class, March 13—15, Calgary, AB Info: 403.259.4442 Colour Placement, March 13, Edmonton. AB Info: 780.424.6262 Corrective Colour, March 13, St. Catharines, ON Info: 905.346.1213

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS PRESENTS: Educational programs for Euronaturals hair extentions. In-salon classes also available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL CLASSES STAR NAIL PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs, location TBA; Info: 800.661.9997

ESTHETIC CLASSES COLLEGA FOR AVEDA PRESENTS: Makeup Immersion, March 5—6, Kelowna, BC; Facial Fundamentals 2, March 5—6, Ottawa, ON Makeup Immersion March 12—13, Edmonton, AB Ageless Beauty Techniques, March 19, Winnipeg, MB Aveda Collection Makeup, March 20, Toronto, ON Bridal Makeup, March 20, Winnipeg, MB Info: 800.689.1066

UP AND COMING Carnival of beauty 40th anniversary celebration!, April 8—9, World Trade & convention centre, Halifax, NS; Info: www.maritimebeauty.com or 800.565.7721 Milano Systems Annual SeMinar, May 7—8, Greater Toronto Area, Sheraton Parkway Hotel (Richmond Hill), Info: 800.667.1596 Fax your April listings by February 20, 2006. Please note that due to space limitations we cannot list all events. Questions? Call 416.869.3131 ext. 105 or e-mail editorial@beautynet.com

SCOOP

Where to buy In case you haven’t heard, LAKMÉ COSMETICS has its distribution out in full force in western Canada. Here’s where to find a Lakmé product near you. British Columbia—West Coast Beauty Supply, 604.321.2700

talentSHOW

LEADING THE WAY

Joico Canada is pleased to announce the winners of its National Stylist & Student Vero Competition. The National Stylist Award was given to Shannon Simmons of Heads Up Haircare in London, ON, while the National Student Award was nabbed by Martha Littlejohn from Elaine’s Hair Design in Brantford, ON.

THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF COSMETOLOGY SCHOOLS has appointed Canadian esthetician, author, publisher and educator Susanne S. Warfield to its board of directors. A leading expert on business, legal and liability issues that affect estheticians, Warfield has helped bring esthetician education to the forefront.

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TOP LEFT PHOTO PAULA TIZZARD TOP RIGHT PHOTO WENDY WILSON

Alberta—Salon Centre Alberta, 780.452.6879

Wanted: Diverters PureOlogy Serious Colour Care has announced a $10,000 (U.S.) reward to the first person (determined by PureOlogy in its sole discretion) who provides indisputable information identifying the name and circumstances of any person who sells PureOlogy to unauthorized retailers. For more information visit www.pureology.com.

Jet Set

Jet City Beauty Beauty, formerly Salon and Spa Centre, has recently announced this new jetsetter name. Distributor of Joico and LCN products and based in Mississauga, ON, Jet City Beauty has also launched a new Web site. Check it out at www.jetcitybeauty.ca.

GIVING BACK As usual, beauty professionals love giving back to their communities.

OPI donates $300,000 U.S. to the Red Cross after Hurricane Katrina.

Calgary’s Salon Escape raises $2,200 for the United

California Dreaming KMS CALIFORNIA announces a North American casting call in search of individuals to represent the company’s new brand and product line. The “I Am KMS California” contest invites stylists and consumers to enter for a chance to become one of the six new faces of KMS California. Additionally, the three stylists who refer the most clients to enter the contest will also win an allexpenses-paid trip for two to KMS California’s launch event in New York City. Deadline for entries is March 31, 2006. Visit www.iamkmscalifornia.com for more contest details.

Way in its first Cut-A-Thon, held last September. In addition to haircuts, the salon also offered face painting for kids, a live DJ, raffles and refreshments. NSI (Nail Systems International) adopts a family this past holiday season, providing them with food, gifts, stocking-stuffers and more.

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PHOTOS COURTESY LANCÔME CANADA

LANCÔME COLOUR DESIGNS AWARDS Celebrating Canadian talent in makeup and fashion, the second annual Lancôme Colour Designs Awards were held at Toronto’s beautiful Arcadian Court. After a colourful cocktail reception and a makeup presentation and fashion show hosted by the beautiful Lana Ogilvie, Toronto’s Boriana Stoilkova was named Lancôme Makeup Artist of the Year.

1. BORIANA STOILKOVA’S WINNING MAKEUP LOOK. 2. MASTER OF CEREMONIES LANA OGILVIE

ADDRESSES

THE

AUDIENCE.

3. L-R FINALISTS JOAN CHELL (TORONTO) AND RACHEL JONES (VANCOUVER) WITH THE NIGHT’S WINNER, BORIANA STOILKOVA (TORONTO), AND FINALISTS MARIE TREMBLAY (MONTREAL) AND TANIA EL ZAHR (CALGARY). 4. STOILKOVA DEMONSTRATING HER SKILLS. 3

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Laser Rental Services • Hair Removal • Acne • Vascular Lesions & Pigmented Lesions before

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before

after

Vascular Lesions

before

after

Pigmented Lesions

• Skin Rejuvenati Rejuvenation

visit us at www.laserrentals.com or call 1-888-LASER(52737)-11

PHOTOS COURTESY ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

PRESS PASS

ALTERNATIVE FUNDRAISING The 23rd Alternative Hair Show was held at London’s spectacular Royal Albert Hall October 23, 2005, in aid of the Leukemia Research Foundation. Over £220,000 was raised. The theme of this year’s show was Renaissance. With participants like Vidal Sassoon, Robert Cromeans, Anthony Mascolo and show founder Tony Rizzo, the show did not disappoint. 1. TEAM SANRIZZ'S MILITARY LOOKS 2. CUTLER NYC RESURRECTED CHARLIE CHAPLIN 3. QUINTESSENTIAL SASSOON 4. ROBERT CROMEAN'S CIRQUE DU SOLEIL/GALLIANO-INSPIRED SHOW 5. CHEQUE PRESENTATION

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Everything Old... made NEW again Simply Devine™ now has 5 Bronzers!

Dangerously Dark™ now has Triple Bronzers! Chocolate Temptation™ now has Dual Bronzers Intimidation™ now has Dual Bronzers Iced Creme™ now has Dual Bronzers

“Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy: 1-800-661-6292

Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

E R O EA

Uvalux International Inc.

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LOOSE IN LONDON

Several Canadians made the trek to London in October to take in the sights and sounds of Salon International, at the Excel Docklands for three days of news, education and visual stimulation.

1. L-R CORIN BERRY, TONY RICCI AND CHRYSTAL BYL FROM TONY RICCI HAIR CO. IN ALBERTA, WITH JUAN PEREZ, JENNIFER MACDOUGALL AND STEVEN WALL FROM THE HEAD ROOM IN ST.

JOHN’S, NEWFOUNDLAND. 2. SALON

REPECHAGE TRAINING Karine Simard of Atlantic Salon and Spa in Halifax (front row third from left, next to Lydia Sarfati, second from left, president, Sarkli-Repechage), recently attended brand manager’s training for salon and spa directors for Repechage at the Repechage training facility in New Jersey.

MAGAZINE’S LAURA DUNPHY AND JOHN STEINBERG (RIGHT) HANG OUT IN THE PRESS CENTRE WITH CHARLIE MILLER, ONE OF “THE SUPER SCOTS”. 3. SALON MAGAZINE’S, STEPHEN PUDDISTER WITH BEHINDTHECHAIR.COM’S DANA SCHMIDTBAUER AND MARY RECTORGABLE, ROBERT CROMEANS AND AUSSIE JAMIE CARROLL .

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FFASHION-FOCUSED BSG

On November 6, BSG held its annual Fashion Focus at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre. An action-packed day featured education and presentations by Martin Parsons, Redken 5th Avenue’s Stéphane Legros and others and the newest trends from the Matrix artistic team.

1. MATRIX STAGE 2. L-R DAVID DUPAL, ALAIN LAROCHE, DIANA 1

FERREIRA, CINTHIA GAUTHIER AND MANUEL ALFARELA. 3. L-R SALON MAGAZINE’S SAMANTHA ANOBILE, WIL NARYNSKI REGIONAL SALES MANAGER FOR NIOXIN AND SALON MAGAZINE’S, MORELLA AGUIRRE. 4. EXIT SALON CO-OWNERS ROBERTO PIZZUTI (LEFT) AND JIM ELLIS (RIGHT) WITH SALON’S MAGAZINE’S, STEPHEN PUDDISTER. 5. ADRIAN CAREW AND JIE MATAR 6. REDKEN BOOTH 7. HAIRSTYLISTS AMY VIDLER, WOODY MICHLEB AND HEATHER WENMAN ON THE SHOW

FLOOR HAMMING IT UP FOR THE CAMERA.

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CONCEPTS II IN BC

Six superstar stylists hit the stage at the Concepts II show October 23 at the River Rock Casino in Richmond, BC. The Goldwell Trend Zoom North America touring team did a pre-lunch demo and show featuring the work of Joan Novak, John Simpson and Dimitrios Tsioumas. The afternoon highlighted the talents of Kaycee Clark, Edwin Johnston and Anh Co Tran. It all wrapped up with a chic cocktail and hors d’ouevres party in the casino. 1. FULL STAGE ACTION 2. EDWIN JOHNSTON 3. KAYCEE CLARK 4. ANH CO TRAN 5 AND 6. MODELS 5

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YOU’LL GO

BANANAS

for the NEW AUSTRALIAN GOLD® Products

“Will I get my rebates?”

Ask your Authorized Distributor or call Uvalux BEFORE you buy: 1-800-661-6292

Cash Back* and Free Advertising Allowance* only available from Uvalux Authorized Distributors.

Uvalux International Inc.

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EDUCATION ON VACATION 1

In November, the Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia held its Education On A Vacation cruise. Six Hundred members cruised the Mexican Riviera combining sightseeing with education, and learning about the latest

products and trends. 1. MODELS 2. L-R MIKE JOMAA, AMER JOMAA, NORMA ANN EATON, BRYAN STATT AND FARIS ABDULRAHMAN 3. SHANTAL DUPONT FROM SCHWARZKOPF 4. TERRY RITCEY AND GEORGE BRODER 5. JEANNINE AND STEPHEN PAVLICK 6. SHANNON PRIVE, BOBBIE GILMORE, JOEY BROWN 7. JACK NOESGAARD, RON NICHOLLS, KIRBY MORRIS, HERMAN SCHUTT AND

DAVE HOOPER

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Catch this year y ’s ABA Show in your area and discover leading edge techniques and products for f the salon and spa from around ar the world - all under one roof!

E D U C A T I O N A L E D U C A T I O N A L L E A D I N G L E A D I N G C A N A D A ’ S C A N A D A ’ S

SPRING 2006

LOOKING FOR THE LATEST TRENDS, THE NEWEST PRODUCTS AND INSPIRATIONAL IDEAS FOR HAIR AND AESTHETICS?

B E A U T Y B E A U T Y

C ANADA’S LARGEST HAIR & AESTHETIC EXHIBITION & EDUC ATIONAL EVENT

S H O W S S H O W S

C A N A DA ’ S L A R G E S T H A I R & A E S T H E T I C E X H I B I T I O N & E D U C AT I O N A L E V E N T

A L L YO U R P RO F E S S I O N A L NEEDS UNDER T H E S A M E ROO RO O F H A I R , NA I L S & AESTHETICS

2006 SPRING BEAUTY SHOWS Montreal

Palais des Congrès

March 5 & 6

Vancouver

Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre

Toronto

Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building)

Winnipeg

Winnipeg Convention Centre

Edmonton

Edmonton Northlands Park

March 19 & 20 April 9 & 10 April 30 & May 1 May 7 & 8

The ABA brings the best of the world to your doorstep. If it’s it’ exciting, if it’s it’ innovative, and if it’s it’ beauty NEWS in hair, aesthetics, skin care, nails and wellness, it’s it’ at the ABA Show the beauty show for f all Professional ofessionals. ofessional essionals. Considered the source f beauty professionals for of ofessionals who want w to stay in the lead. As always alw , education, competitions and knowledge wled are what you want wledge w and we deliver. Ask your distributor for f details or call 1-800-268-6644 for more information inf or visit our website at www.abacanada.com www

Design: Artisan Design,Windsor, Windsor Ontario Windsor, Hair and Make-up: Mak Heather Wenma W n Photography: Paula Tizzard Model: Rhetta

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PICASSO’S WINS GOLD Picasso’s Salon Spa in St. Catharines Ontario was one of only three salons in Canada that competed in Italy for the International Golden Curl Award and took home the grand prize over some of the world’s best fashion, hair and makeup designers . 1.

DANIEL AHADE, MODEL LINDSAY WIEHE,

MARIO ARGHITTU AND JULIA DIMARCANTONIO, WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO DESIGNER DOMENIC BELLISIMO FOR THE GOWN. 2. BACK SHOT. 2

STRIKING GOLD

Farouk’s Woody Michleb picked up two gold medals in Uruguay Americas Open Cup 2005. He placed first in Fashion Trend Cut and Style, and won first place in the Colour Award on Trend Cut. 1. MODEL AMY LOUISE VIDLER SPORTS THE WINNING CUT AND COLOUR. 2. CELEBRATING THE WIN: L-R MODEL AMY-LOUISE VIDLER, JOACHIN

WOLFE

(GERMANY),

WOODY

MICHLEB, RICHARD JEHA (VANCOUVER), ALEXANDRA

KEMPF

GERMAN MODEL. 1 2

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AND

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A.I.I. GiGi pg 109 ................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com ABA 2006 Shows pg 115 ...................................800-268-6644 ........................ www.abacanada.com American Crew pg 65........................................800-598-2739 ........................ www.americancrew.com Aveda pg 4-5 .....................................................800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com Beauty Revolution Northwest pg 101 ...............800-408-5900 ........................ www.beautyrevolution.com BSG pg 47..........................................................800-241-3330 ........................ www.bsgcanada.com BSG Fashion Focus pg 103 ...............................800-241-3330 ........................ www.bsgcanada.com Calbrook CalGel Nail System pg 108 ...............866-5-CALGEL ...................... www.calbrookcanada.com Craze Eterna Bella pg 102 ................................877-325-7773 ........................ www.craze-esthetics.com Creative Nail Design The Heart Truth pg 23 ....800-833-NAIL ....................... www.creativenaildesign.com Dennis Bernard TCA pg 79 ...............................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com Derma Pro Skin Care pg 38 ..............................888-343-9555 ........................ www.dermapro.com Dikson ERRE[CI] Sport pg 49........................................................................... www.diksonservice.com Elevate Magazine pg 121 ..................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.beautynet.com Essie Spring 2006 Collection pg 41 ..................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com Goldwell pg 67 ..................................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwellusa.com Goldwell Care pg 21 ..........................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwellusa.com Great Lengths pg 37 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com Hair-Brain.com pg 40 ...................................................................................... www.hair-brain.com IBS New York pg 85 ...........................................800-427-2520 ........................ www.questex.com IECSC Las Vegas pg 99 .....................................800-624-3248 ........................ www.iecsc.com Intercosmetics RVB pg 91................................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca International Beauty Sevices pg 114 ................800-642-3818 ISO i-color pg 124 .............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca Joico pg 12-13 ..................................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com, www.icehair.com Keyano Aromatics pg 110 ................................................................................ keyano.com Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd. pg 112 .............800-738-8666 ........................ www.kingdombeauty.com KMS pg 29 ........................................................800-288-9118 ........................ www.kmshaircare.com L’Anza CP Anti-Aging pg 39 ............................................................................. www.keybeautysystems.com Lakme HOP pg 27 ............................................................................................ www.lakme.com Lanvain pg 53 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN California Crusin’ pg 51 ............................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca Liquid Luxuries Salon Systems pg 90 ..............800-387-2962 ........................ www.torontobeautysupply.com Marilyn Brush pg 106 .......................................800-561-7024 ........................ www.themarilynbrush.com Matrix color.smart pg 6-7 .................................800-361-1861 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Toronto Academy pg 33 .........................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Milano Computer Systems Inc. pg 116.............800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com Natrique pg 45 ..................................................866-628-7478 ........................ www.natrique.com Nex Gen pg 46 ...................................................888-527-3711 ........................ www.nexgenlasers.com NP Group Charm Collection pg 68 ...................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca Nucraze Fashion Accessories pg 116...............888-877-5531 ........................ www.nucraze.com OPI Mexico Collection pg 35 .............................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Paul Mitchell pg 8-9 .........................................800-793-8790 ........................ www.paulmitchell.com PureOlogy NanoWorks pg 19 ............................800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com Radiancy Laser Rentals pg 104 ........................888-527-3711 ........................ www.nexgenlasers.com Redken pg 14-15 ...............................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Redken pg 25 ....................................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Schwarzkopf BC pg 10-11 ................................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Senscience pg 16-17 ........................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.zotos.com Star Nail pg 43 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio Naturale pg 75 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Super Line pg 54-55 .........................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.supre.com Supre Carnivale pg 73 .......................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.supre.com Supre Hempz Line pg 111 ................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzhaircare.com Supre Hempz Moisturizers pg 87 .....................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzproducts.com Supre Omen pg 105 ..........................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.supre.com Supre Stiletto Dual Bronzers pg 81 ..................800-825-7020 ........................ www.supre.com tecni.art Competition 2006 pg 1-3 ....................800-361-8017 ext. 3245 TIGI Catwalk pg 31 ............................................800-256-9391 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com True Concepts pg 56 .........................................877-true-480 ......................... www.truehairext.com Urban Beauty Systems pg 22 ...........................866-731-4327 Uvalux Australian Gold pg 113 .........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Australian Gold SprayTan pg 82 ...........800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Bronzers pg 107 ....................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Colorology pg 97 ...................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux SS755 Tanning Bed pg 122 ...................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Tanning Bed Line pg 123 ......................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Wahl Sterling Bravura pg 71 ............................866-787-9245 ........................ www.wahl.com

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Marketplace Your guide to products and services for professional salons

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 16 Issue 03

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THE LAST WORD

RISE AND SHINE: Men’s Hair Products by John Steinberg

PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

hen I started hairdressing in England in 1959, good salons didn’t allow male clients across the threshold at the same time as their female counterparts. Even in Canada, until about 1975, a man who wanted to have his hair cut by a hairdresser—as opposed to a barber—had to come in after the last woman’s appointment was over. Then that terrible name “unisex” began to appear. Nowadays I would say the clientele in any good salon would be 30 per cent to 40 per cent male. And although we have never seen an array of men’s hairdressing products to match today’s choices, there certainly have been predecessors. Take Macassar Oil, for example, named after the district of Macassar in present-day Indonesia, and originally obtained by pressing ylang-ylang seeds. At the beginning of the 19th century, a Mr. Rowland of Hatton Garden in London, England, invented a version made principally from coconut oil. Rowland successfully marketed his product as Macassar Oil in deeply embossed square glass bottles; one hopes there was at least some ylang-ylang in there somewhere. An 1812 edition of the Edinburgh Advertiser newspaper in Scotland gushed: “MACASSAR OIL, for the HAIR, a preparation that surpasses all others for eradicating all impurities of the Hair, and increasing its growth where it has been bald for years; strengthening the curl, and imparting a beautiful gloss and scent… This inestimable Oil has also received the august patronage of their Royal Highnesses the Princess of WALES and Duke of Sussex, and a great number of the nobility.” While the essay’s author (Rowland’s son) probably wasn’t inclined to objectivity, Macassar Oil undeniably became all the rage with Victorian and Edwardian men to smooth their hair. In 1927, Benjamin Clarke, a Kansas City, Missouri, barber and amateur scientist, put together a hair and scalp tonic in his basement. Clarke called it Lucky Tiger Tonic and sold it from his barbershop. Then in 1935 Lucky Tiger was trademarked, and blossomed into a classic American barbershop brand of men’s grooming products.

At first its advertising was quite tame (“Lucky Tiger saves your hair”) but in the ’50s, it got straight to the point. “Lucky Tiger gets the gals! (which one do you want?)” proclaimed an Esquire magazine ad. The ad depicts a lucky hunter standing with a large rifle propped against his thigh, coolly surveying three female trophies on the wall—a buxom, smiling blond, brunette and redhead. Subtle stuff. Small wonder that in 1953 the company put out a product called Butch Wax. Back across the pond, in 1929 a chemical works in Birmingham, England, concocted a men’s pomade from mainly water, mineral oil and beeswax. The company called the oily cream Brylcreem, for the brilliant shine it gave to the slicked-back men’s styles of the day. To say Brylcreem caught on is a gross understatement. Its popularity with Royal Air Force pilots in the Second World War led to their nickname, “The Brylcreem Boys.” The appropriately named Combe Corporation marketed Brylcreem in the United States. In 1949 the corporation came up with the catchy little jingle: “Brylcreem, a little dab’ll do ya! / Brylcreem, you look so debonair! / The gals will all pursue ya, / They’ll love to get their fingers in your hair…” The product was everywhere in the 1950s. Public swimming pools in England had Brylcreemdispensing machines, and in the States, teenage rebels who used Brylcreem to slick their hair into pompadour, ducktail hairdos became known as Greasers. Of course the emergence of The Beatles in the 1960s changed men’s hairstyles completely. Hair products didn’t really figure for men again until the ’80s. Believe it or not, to get a slick, shiny look for men’s hair, we used K-Y Gel. (I’ll describe it as a personal lubricant—draw your own conclusions.) Anyway, it did the job, except that, once dried, it flaked if you tried to brush it. Fortunately, Joico came out with Ice Gel. Sighs of relief all round. In the mid-1990s, the Caesar cut popularized by George Clooney and the pouty Gallagher brothers of Oasis didn’t require styling products. The haircut worked itself into shape. Around the same time, though, the metrosexual phenomenon emerged, together with an amazing amount of products for men. And in case you’re wondering, both Brylcreem and Lucky Tiger are still around. Lucky Tiger recently introduced a “New School” line with organic ingredients. Brylcreem, meanwhile, launched a Web site (www.brylcreem.co.uk) k in 2003 to k) encourage 21st-century dudes to use its new line of products. The company had signed up David Beckham—together with his wife, Victoria “Posh Spice,” arguably the new British royalty—to a promotional deal. But unfortunately, he shaved his head. S march 06 < s a l o n

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