l salon magazine
the business of beauty and style
earth to salons
how eco-friendly
Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0
are you?
Sustainable style an eco-luxe photo shoot
MArCh 08 $5 www.sALON52.CA
fashion
science
inspiration
Our passion and commitment to learning and improving the standards of the industry through education is evident in all Redken programs, which are ever-evolving with innovation and advanced artistry. It is our belief that learning truly happens when behaviors change... the results you will experience when you implement new ideas and information are the basis of growth that will enable us all to learn better, earn better and ultimately live better. Enjoy the Redken Education Journey! Terry Ritcey Director of Education – Redken Canada
GO FROM GREAT TO GREATER WITH REDKEN! REDKEN EDUCATION 2008
CUTTING OVER THE TOP!
FINISH IN STYLE
URBAN FUSION
ADVANCED DESIGN
EDITORIAL INSPIRED
CUT. COLOR. FINISH.
Hugo Urias Global Performing Artist April 14-15
Kris Sorbie Education Artistic Director April 28-29
Stéphane Legros Global Performing Artist May 26-27
Free your creative spirit... Discover the thrill of innovative cutting combined with creative thinking. Challenge yourself in a freethinking zone and expand your creative potential by cutting over the top!
Trends in fashion are changing approximately every six months. Get the ability to deliver the looks our guests want. Match the demand of fashion and be armed with the “know how” and the “how to” of doing all types of finishing effects.
Have fun as you create urban, trendy, sexy hair with a very Avant Garde twist. You will learn alternative and eclectic designs that translate smoothly for your clients. Jump into the creative world of Urban Fusion.
For more information on additional upcoming programs or to register, call 1.866.9.REDKEN or log-on to www.redken.ca for salon professionals.
GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA
1.866.9.REDKEN
©Aveda Corp.
OUR FUNDING OF NEW WIND TURBINES GENERATES ENOUGH WIND ENERGY TO OFFSET 100% OF THE ELECTRICITY USED BY OUR PRIMARY MANUFACTURING FACILITY IN MINNESOTA, USA.
12-HOUR HUMIDITY DEFENSE
©Aveda Corp.
New Smooth Infusion™ Style-Prep Smoother ™ helps us take smoothing to a new level. Our innovative hybrid formula makes styling easier with leave-in conditioning and exceptional smoothing benefits. Reduces the time guests are in the chair. Extends the time style lasts. Organic tapioca helps defend against humidity for up to 12 hours. For an even smoother finish, start with Smooth Infusion™ Shampoo and Conditioner. The smoothest move? Join our network. Call 888.222.4152 or visit aveda.com.
*Per a review of WWD Beauty Report International Top 100 Cosmetic Manufacturer’s Corporate Websites in April, 2007. The wind energy goes into a utility grid from which we draw power.
© Schwarzkopf Professional 1-800-463-3081
GLORIOUS
BLONDE.
ILLUMINATING
SHINE.
INNOVATION by Schwarzkopf Professional
Individualized BLONDE services in colour, care & styling, because BLONDE is more than a colour – it’s an attitude! Register to become a BLONDE EXPERT by calling our ASK Academy at 1-800-463-3081.
WWW.BLONDME.COM
l salon magazine
Contents marCh 08 W W W. S A Lo n 5 2 . CA
ON THE COVER Creative Direction: Ray Civello in collaboration with Salon Magazine Hair: Kristjan Hayden (Civello Queen St.) and Morgan Roy (Aveda Academy Toronto)
SPECIAL ECO SECTION
Makeup: Julie Cusson Nails: Jackie Hillyard
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Cause CeleB
43
earth to salons feaTuRe Ask yourself: Is your salon ready for an eco makeover?
Hair and Makeup Products: Aveda
54
What Beauty Does
Photography: Kint Quon
80
the mega projeCt
83
a Breath of fresh air
Wardrobe: Claire Murray Dress: Juma Earrings: Thera Ip, Made You Look Necklace: Spun, Made You Look
HaiRliNes Kate Hudson and Leonardo DiCaprio—the environmentalists
feaTuRe Ray Civello takes a photo shoot down a green path
pRofile Celebrating 10 years of helping the planet, one bottle at a time
iNTeRioRs Toronto’s World Salon
fEATurES 52
neWs Clips
57
state of the art
60
DeaD Busy
62
a year in revieW
64
taCtile tease
What’s new in the world of extensions
Joico’s Design Collection takes styling to the next level
Strategies to turn the dead zone time into busy zone time
Frank Dicintio looks back at his reign as King Contessa
British Hairdresser of the Year Angelo Seminara’s winning collection
43
> coNTeNTs coNTiNue oN paGe 10
8
s a l o n > march 08
eaRTH To saloNs
64
TacTile Tease
sTaTe of THe aRT
57 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
The Allure of Curls Senscience Liquid Luxury, the prestige hair care collection specially formulated by Shiseido Laboratories, introduces three exquisite formulas specifically designed for hair that is naturally or chemically curly and wavy. With dramatic definition, luminous shine and intense hydration that won’t weigh curls and waves down, it’s the perfection only Senscience can deliver. www.senscience.com Piidea Canada, Senscience Division, Pointe Claire, Quebec H9R 5N3 ©2008. MAKEUP Shiseido HAIR Martin Hillier PHOTO Hama Sanders
MONTREAL
CALGARY
SYDNEY
BARCELONA
TORONTO
LONDON
LOS ANGELES
TOKYO
l salon magazine
regulars 12 14 17
Editor’s LEttEr PubLishEr’s NotE hairLiNEs Cause Celeb p.17; Curly or Straight? from Senscience p.18; Blown Away in Vancouver p.18; Tool Time p.19; Hope Unlocked p.19; Global Business Awards in Hollywood p.19; Bite the Dust with Schwarzkopf contest p.19; On a Roll with Joico’s Vero K-Pak competition winner p. 20; Heading to Hairworld p.21; Fantastic Reading p. 21; Wella’s Trend Vision Awards winners p.21
22 24
coLour
26 28 32
scENE Salon International is the Talk of the Town
36 42 70
trENds
Schwarzkopf's new BLONDEME line
mEN L'Oréal's Homme line p.24;
trends
TIGI releases BedHead for men p.24
scENE Alternative Hair Show Turns 25 coNtEssa GaLLErY Marc Galati’s Contessa 19 Collection
saLoN52 March lineup EsthEtics The new Match Peel p. 70; Milady’s industry bible updated p.72; Three surefire ways to boost your income p. 73
74
NaiLs Vuitton, featuring CND p.74; OPI’s Suzi Weiss-Fischmann on
78 86 87 88 89 98
taNNiNG The link between vitamin D and the tanning industry
26
salOn internatiOnal
retailing p. 76; OPI’s India Collection p. 76
EvENts hot Products scooP PrEss Pass
74
Last word by John Steinberg
nails
10
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70 esthetics
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EDITOR’S lETTER
E
educational trends
PHOTO BABAK
ducational holidays have been a trend in the travel industry for several years now, and they continue to increase in popularity. There are entire websites devoted to this niche area. The topics range from history and culture to languages, science and research and even outdoor survival courses—the list goes on. Just google the phrase “learning vacations” to find out more. I was recently lucky enough to participate in a learning vacation for our industry. I went on the “Education on a Vacation” cruise organized by the Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia (CIABC) with over 650 people from across the country and some international delegates as well. The cruise went from Los Angeles to the Mexican Riviera and stopped in three portsof-call. The educational side of the cruise took place on the days we were at sea travelling to each port. The courses ranged from cutting and colouring, offered by Schwarzkopf Professional, to technical and hands-on workshops offered by LCN Canada, Pivot Point and Milady. The Junior and Senior Canadian Technical and Fashion teams participating in Hairworld were training on board for the week as well. They even had classes on insurance, retirement investments and infection control. I was invited to give seminars on competing in the 20th annual Contessa Awards (yes, the time for planning is now, folks). I had sold-out attendance, and I must say the overall experience was fantastic (except that getting rid of my sea legs when I got back onshore took a couple of days). What a novel idea for a break in the middle of winter, combined with education and a chance to network with industry colleagues. Salon owners, stylists and estheticians made new friends from across the country and learned about each other’s businesses, challenges and successes. Aside from my seminars, I was looking for new story ideas for the future. Everyone I talked to on the cruise said they would certainly do the same type of trip again. This trend is here to stay. And on the topic of trends, this is our first-ever green issue of Salon Magazine. We have brought you some great stories and lessons from other people on how to make your life and your business more environmentally friendly in this age of global warming and environmental sustainability. Be sure to check them all out. Meanwhile, send me your feedback, or if you have a story idea you would like to see us cover, email me at stephen@beautynet.com.
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Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
I.COLOR
www.isohair.com © 2008 Innovative Styling Options, Inc., Division of Piidea Canada, Inc., Pointe Claire, QC H9R 5N3 HAIR: ISO Artistic Team
PHOTO: Hama Sanders
BEAUTIFUL I.COLOR CONFIDENT
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 17 issue 03
www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca
Editor-in-chiEf
Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor
Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com MAnAging Editor
Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com
copy Editor
Francie Wyland sEnior stAff writEr
Pam Fulford
AssociAtE Art dirEctor
Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com contriButors
Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright
’m not just talking about hair colour! I’m referring to the massive green movement everyone is talking about. Although the eco movement has been around for years, it’s recently picked up phenomenal momentum. Social responsibility has become cool, with green topping the A list. Even Hollywood has embraced the trend. And when major celebrities jump on the green wagon, you know it’s got to be the “in” thing to do. So what are you doing to be part of this “it” crowd? If you haven’t already, it’s time to get on board! Take a close look at our first Green Issue, filled with tips, ideas and stories designed to inspire you to put a plan in place. For our part, several years ago we became members of the Forest Stewardship Council (www.fsc.org), which ensures our paper is from well-managed sources and/or recycled materials. In the office, we make sure to use our paper recycling system for everything from magazines to press kits. We reduce our waste by turning unwanted paper into scrap paper and have a policy of only printing what’s necessary. As magazine publishers, paper conservation is a huge opportunity for us. At home, I’ve drastically reduced our household garbage by recycling and composting. I bet I’ve reduced our waste by 75 per cent. I’ve also lessened my carbon footprint by taking the subway. I hardly even need my car any more. It’s been so simple! I’ve got to tip my hat to some of our industry companies for their contribution. Leading the charge for years has been Aveda, which has made positive environmental practices part of its core values. John Paul Mitchell Systems has joined forces with a number of environmental organizations, including American Forests. Farouk Systems was the first company to manufacture ammonia-free colour. The bottom line is that we can all do our part. Eco-consciousness is about the small things we can do in our day-to-day lives. Take a page from the early masters of this incredibly important cause and use it as a marketing tool. Get all your staff on board and talk it up. Your clients will appreciate your efforts, and you’ll help make our world a better place.
Laura Dunphy Publisher
sEnior VicE-prEsidEnt/puBLishEr
Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr
Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr
Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE puBLishEr
Cindy Mahabir > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | cindy@beautynet.com Account rEprEsEntAtiVE
Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com
circuLAtion MAnAgEr
Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca
AccountAnt
Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com prEsidEnt
Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor
Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com
suBscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USD AddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca
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I
Cool Green
contriButing Editor/MAnAging Editor (frEnch)
Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com
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return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada
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nature’s prescription for beautiful hair bain de terre’s recovery complex® replenishing hair balm is an intense, dual-phase moisturizing treatment for dry or frizzy hair. The “purple side” releases replenishing nanospheres that quench thirsty hair for an incredibly silky, high-shine style. The “green side” delivers nourishing botaniceuticals to keep
©2008 ©2008 Piidea Canada Ltd., Bain de Terre Division, Pointe-Claire QC
hair strong, healthy and lustrous.
Me & Me
NAIVE? Yeah, SOMETIMES … BUT sassy and MESSED UP, too. So WHAT? OSiS DUST IT: mattifying powder for root volume, lightweight texture and separation with a soft matt effect.
You could win an Apple iPod! For more details speak with your Sales Representative or call us at 1.800.463.3081.
the art of contradiction.
iPod is a trademark of Apple Inc. Apple is neither a sponsor of, nor a participant in, this promotion.
"
get a source. kate and Leo find experts who know their stuff.
hairlines
Cause Celeb
Names like Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Hudson naturally elicit a certain amount of envy, but this time around these A-list stars are turning us a different kind of green
O
Redken’s Metallic Glam collection
photos keystone press agency
scar-nominated superstar Leonardo DiCaprio is perhaps Hollywood’s most prominent environmentalist. Truly leading by example, this drool-worthy cutie drives a hybrid car to his solar-panelled home. A board member of the Natural Resources Defense Council (www.nrdc.org) and Global Green USA (www.globalgreen.org), DiCaprio is also not afraid to put his money where his mouth is. He recently forked out the funds to build a state-of-the-art green hotel on land he owns off the coast of Belize; construction will begin next year. But for now, he’s promoting his latest feature film, The 11th Hour, a documentary he co-wrote and produced on the environmental crises caused by human actions and practical solutions to restore threatened ecosystems. The actor also partnered with the Discovery Channel’s new Planet Green network to produce Eco-Town, a 13-part reality series documenting the green rebuilding of a Kansas town that was torn apart by a tornado. Boho-chic babe Kate Hudson is adding environmentalism to her list of admirable qualities, collaborating with hairstylist David Babaii and WildAid to create David Babaii for WildAid, a line of professional hair care products and styling tools that will benefit global wildlife conservation. With an exclusive blend of exotic natural ingredients, David Babaii for WildAid products are free of sulfates, parabens, animal products and animal testing. WildAid (www.wildaid.org) is a non-profit organization that works with governments and communities worldwild to end illegal wildlife trade, allowing threatened species to recover to safe levels. WildAid’s goal is a world in which local communities can improve their lives without destroying their environment, so that humanity can survive together with wildlife for generations to come.–TC
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march 08 < s a l o n
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hairlines
Indulge your clients’ desires with the latest collections from Senscience
Curly or Straight? Sometimes she loves her curls, and other times she wants to go straight. The latest Liquid Luxury collections from Senscience allow you to deliver both. Formulated by the Shiseido Laboratories, the in-salon Senscience Straight Permanent Thermal Hair Straightening System transforms coarse, textured hair into a silky smooth structure. The new Curl Define wet line of shampoo, conditioner and styling creme works with natural or chemically created curl for a luscious, frizz-free finish. To learn more, go to www.senscience. com or www.salon52.ca.—MA
Blown AwAy
Blo Blow Dry Bar has been getting rave reviews since it first opened its doors last June in Vancouver’s trendy Yaletown. The concept: catwalk-quality hair for under $30 in about 30 minutes. No cutting. No colouring. Jon Paul Holt, co-founder and creative and educational director of the company, says, “Scissors and dye are verboten—it’s strictly wash, blow and go!” Blo’s sexy-sleek decor is furnished with a bevy of Philippe Starck Louis Ghost chairs; clips of bikini-clad Bond girls are looped on the projector screen. Holt has also created a line of natural hair care products for use in-salon and for retail. There’s also a signature six-week intensive session styling course; stylists are asked to donate to women’s breast cancer research as course payment. Cheekily named Blo U, the course trains aspiring and seasoned stylists alike on the seven styles of Blo’s hair menu, from the flirty-bouncy “Holly Would” to the smoldering “LA Confidential.” Blo opens a second and third location in March and April, with more slated before year-end. Franchise opportunities are available. Check out www.blomedry.com for the BloDown.—SP
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Model photo courtesy senscience
Vancouver’s new business concept
Tool Time Name Avanti Ultra Silicone-Tech ionic flat iron
(Above left) Vidal Sassoon (bottom left) and members of the Chatter’s Unlocking Hope team; (right) Chatters Canada’s Jason Volk and Robb Bloos
Hope Unlocked
The Hairdressers Unlocking Hope campaign, started by behindthechair.com founder Mary Rector-Gable and Vidal Sassoon, has raised over $2 million to build more than 20 homes for Katrina victims. With more than 15 sponsors and thousands of hairstylists and clients participating, the first phase became a reality when the keys to 10 brand new houses were handed to deserving families back in November. Sponsors, who raised the necessary $85,000 to build each house, included teams from Chatters Canada, TIGI, Paul Mitchell Schools, PureOlogy, Neill Corp, Mizani, PSC, Bumble and Bumble, John Allan’s Clubs, SportClips, Ratner Group, Charles Penzone’s and Equibal Labs.—SP
Global Business Goes
Hollywood
The 2008 Global Salon Business Awards (GSBA), produced by the B.E.S.T. Foundation, will be held at the Renaissance Hotel in glamorous Hollywood, California. With an educational forum hosted at the UCLA campus and a gala dinner emceed by Leeza Gibbons, the threeday event will take place from June 7 to 9, 2008. The biennial Global Salon Business Awards program recognizes and honours leading salon owners who have consistently demonstrated extraordinary business and entrepreneurial success. In 2006, six Canadian salons took home a Global Salon Business Award, the most any participating country can win. For more info, including pre- and post-travel options, please visit www.salonbusinessawards.com.—SP
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FeaTUres > Silicone strips embedded in one plate create perfect tension and user control > Minimizes stress on the client’s hair and the stylist’s wrist > Ceramic plates emit negative ions and far infrared heat, sealing the cuticle and eliminating frizz > Heats evenly and fast up to 205° C; quick heat recovery > Slim design makes it easy to get close to the hair’s root > Cool tips and thumb rest increase the stylist’s comfort > One-inch-thick plates For more info visit www.dannyco.com.
Bite the Dust! Schwarzkopf launches OSiS Dust It with some prize action Pairing up with LOULOU magazine, SKP has launched the OSiS Dust It Contest, a web-based promo for stylists and clients. Here’s how it works: When customers buy a specially wrapped OSiS Dust It, they will receive a prize code. Clients then enter their code at www.louloumagazine.com for a chance to win one of seven Apple MacBooks prizes or one of 15 SKP prize packs filled with a year’s supply of Schwarzkopf products. Now, here’s how you can win: When your clients fill out their online entry form, they will be asked for their hairstylist’s name and salon—so be sure to give them your business card. If your client wins the Apple prize, you’ll win an iPod Nano. If he or she wins an SKP prize pack, you’ll win a salon prize pack. Full contest details are available on the LOULOU magazine website. Contest closes April 30.
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hairlines
Jessica Gauvin talks about winning the Joico Vero K-Pak Colour competition
J
essica Gauvin has caught the competition bug. Winning the Joico Canada national Vero K-Pak colour competition and attending the 2008 Contessa Awards as part of her winning gift package has encouraged her to keep on pushing her creativity. “I entered the Joico competition for fun, never expecting to win,” she explains. “But now all I want to do is plan the next one. I will be competing at the 2008 Montreal ABA competition as well as next year’s Contessa Awards.” For her winning collection, Gauvin was inspired by her model’s striking green eyes and made her hair colour selections after reading countless fashion magazines and doing extensive trend research. “I wanted to create a clean short cut that would accentuate my model’s angular features,” says Gauvin. “The cut is a little bit masculine, tapping into this year’s trend toward androgynous looks.” Aside fom her trip to Toronto to attend the 2008 Contessas, Gauvin also won a photo shoot (valued at $4, 000) to enter the 2009 Contessa Makeover Colorist Category, including three models and guidance from an experienced Joico stylist, a trip for two to New York to attend an educational class at the Artistic Institute, with flight, hotel and $1,500 spending money and a $300 Joico gift basket. –TC
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Finalists Janyse Gordon, O’Hair’s Styling Group Duncan, BC Yvonne Campbell, Exist Hairworx Sydney, BC Dayna Read, On the Fringe Hair Design Vancouver, BC Jacob Rozenberg, The Lounge Hair Studio Vancouver, BC Student Category Joico Canada National Verocolor Winner Naly Leuthavone Le Coupe Sauvage Salon St. Thomas, ON Finalists Irene Baxter, Headlines Salon and Spa Stouffville ON Aimee Cox, Moods Salon, Vancouver BC Matthew Sacchitiello, Michael’s Hair Design Oakville ON Annie Robert, Academie Renee Duval St. Catherine’s, QC
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hair aNd maKeuP JeSSiCa gauViN Photo SteeVe PelleriN
on a roll
Joico Canada National Vero K-Pak Colour Winner Jessica Gauvin, Salon Art.Koi.Fur Frelighsburg, QC
Heading To Hairworld
Some of the members of Team Canada set to compete at the 2008 Hairworld Championships in Chicago.
Canada will be well represented at the 2008 Hairworld Championships. This year’s competition will run in conjunction with America’s Beauty Show (traditionally known as the Chicago Midwest Beauty Show) from March 1 to 3. “The teams [some pictured above] have been getting together almost every month to practise on mannequins or live models,” says David Cole, official Canadian juror. “Both the senior and junior technical and fashion teams attended the CIABC’s “World Education on a Vacation” cruise in January for one of the final training sessions before the competition,” says Norm Ann Eaton, president of the Canadian Cosmetologists Competition National Association. Produced by Organisation Mondiale Coiffure (OMC) and the National Cosmetology Association (NCA), Hairworld draws more than 1,000 competitors and teams representing more than 50 countries. Three days of competitions include contests in hair, nails and makeup, offering awards for both senior and junior professionals. Go www.salon52.ca for full coverage.–SP
FantasticReading!
Want to go from good to fantastic? Then check out The Fantastic Hairdresser, by Alan Austin-Smith. Inspirational and progressive, it’s garnered a few big-name fans, like Vivienne Mackinder and Trevor Sorbie. Order online at www.fantastichairdresser.com.
Wella Trend Vision Awards 07 Fifteen teams of finalists from across Canada competed for Wella Professionals’ prestigious Trend Vision Award on September 23, hosted for the first time by Cantin Beauté at their Momentum Show in Quebec City. Competitors were judged on colour placement, cut, makeup, wardrobe and their interpretations of one of four trends: Nordic Serenity, revealing a spiritual space where new technology meets the new tranquility; Pop Couture, where the essence of 60s style is given a 2007 twist; Rustic Deluxe, exploring the awe of the wilderness and reconnecting with our roots; and Sensual Intrigue, revelling in a new notion of exquisite sensuality that’s decadent and hypnotic.–TC
The winners 1st Place: (photo left) Scandale Beauté, Geneviève Ferland, Sainte-Julie, Quebec Makeup : Camille Marceau Model : Isabelle Venne Photo: Alain Comtois 2nd Place: Hair Xtacy, Mujda Sultani, Burlington, Ontario Makeup: Shabana Sultani Model: Andrea Krukowski
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3rd Place: The Head Room Eryn Wall, St. John’s, NL Makeup: Leslie Galway Model: Christy McCutcheon Stylist Choice Award Winner: Hair Xtacy, Mujda Sultani, Burlington, Ontario Makeup: Shabana Sultani Model: Andrea Krukowski
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colour
Delightfully Blonde Life in the salon is about to get even more fun with the launch of Schwarzkopf’s new BLONDME
I
t’s the colour that says she’s made a lifestyle choice and she loves it. It’s also the colour that’s considered high-maintenance even though the wearer may not herself be. “Blonde has a psychology all its own. Platinum blonde for vintage Hollywood glamour, golden blonde for pure power, honey streaks for summer fun, natural blonde for innocent beauty,” says Amanda Capobianco, brand manager for Schwarzkopf Professional’s newest line, called BLONDME, launching in Canada this month. “At Schwarzkopf, we’ve taken an innovative approach to the blonde client with the launch of BLONDME—it’s the first complete system for creating supreme blonde hair quality in the salon and at home,” says Capobianco. “It gives the colourist a powder lightener for up to 8 levels of lift, with antiyellow agents that ban brassy pigments from the hair. Colourists can mix six colour additives with a base cream to create no fewer than 40 different shades of blonde, for limitless choice and personalized results. “And for complete care, there’s a take-home care and styling range
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calibrated to the client’s shade direction. Every time they cleanse, condition and style their cool, neutral or warm blonde hair, it will be revived, giving them luminous, gorgeous blonde tones that last and last.” The take-home care range consists of three reflective luminosity shampoos to match the blonde shade of the client’s hair, along with three corresponding nourishing luminosity conditioners as well as a BLONDME shine moisture mask. The complete home-care line contains Prism Shine Technology with liquid rock crystal for luminous, glossy shine and softness. When your clients take the plunge and decide to go blonde, they'll want to know they are in the hands of an expert. Capobianco says, “Schwarzkopf Professional supports colourists build specialized skills and knowledge through a three-day BLONDE Expert seminar. Colourists can call our ASK Academy at 800.463.3081 to register today, as space is limited.” Get more of BLONDME coverage at www.salon52.ca. S
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photo courtesy schwarzkopf professional
By Stephen Puddister
men
Discreet Men In a bold new way L’Oréal Professionnel has just launched a complete line of products, including in-salon colour services, developed specifically for the male market. “Research shows that 64 per cent of men declare that their hair is the most important aspect of the way they look, ahead of the way they’re dressed,” says Minh-Dan Tran, group manager for L’Oréal Prefessionnel. “Many men have a positive attitude towards grey hair because it is synonymous with virility and charm, as well as vitality and energy. However, white hair is also a sign of aging. So more men wish to disguise their grey, but not in a radical way. The Chrono Blend Technology of the Cover 5 colour line (a five minute process that can be done at the sink) is the perfect answer,” adds Tran. Cover 5 is aimed at men from 35 to 55, and gives up to 50 per cent white coverage. It consists of six shades corresponding to men’s natural hair colouring, and unlike most hair colour, it goes on discreetly, like a mousse shampoo. Unlike classic oxidation and tone-on-tone colour, Cover 5 does not mask white entirely; the result is natural blending and a refreshed look that has no visible regrowth effect. The care line consists of four shampoo choices:
From colour to care, the new L’Oréal Professionnel Homme covers the male market
Tonique: shampoo for normal, coloured or permed hair and suitable for daily use. Densité: shampoo for thinning or fine hair Controle: for controlling unruly hair, making styling easier Purete: anti-dandruff shampoo The styling range has three products, including a strong hold gel for maximum hold, a wax for shine and soft, manageable style and a sculpte fibrous paste for styling fine to medium hair. For more information on this line call 800.361.1861 or go to www.lorealprofessionnel.ca.—SP
Effective Edge TIGI plays the male market
TIGI’s Bed Head for Men is a three-product line with a daily Clean Up shampoo, peppermint conditioner and a Pure Texture moulding paste. The shampoo contains sunflower seeds, saw palmetto and lemongrass extracts along with menthol to promote healthy growth. The conditioner has ginseng root extract, proteins and peppermint to promote a healthy scalp and fight environmental elements. The Pure Texture moulding paste has carnauba wax, wheat amino acids and powerful styling agents to prevent flaking and moisture loss while creating ultimate texture. Check out www.tigihaircare.com for more details.—SP The launch of Bed Head for Men at TIGI’s World Release Event
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SCENE
Talk of the Town Salon International Sets London Abuzz
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VIDal SaSSoon aCaDEMY
MaHoGanY
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ISHoka
L
ondon was abuzz with beauty news and excitement from October 13 to 15 as Salon International welcomed over 48, 000 beauty professionals from around the world, including many from Canada. The Salon Live theatre played host to some of the best educators in the world, with Toni & Guy, 2006 British Hairdresser of the Year Andrew Barton, the Saks Art Team, Vidal Sassoon, Patrick Cameron, Rush London, Mahoganyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Richard Thompson and Tim Hartley all offering technical insights into their personal inspirations. Tigiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inspirational Youth gave 13 individuals the chance to showcase their talents live as well. The main show floor featured stands and stages that entertained the masses and offered education, trend information and tips and techniques that visitors could take back to the salon. The show also featured the latest product and equipment launches together with tools and salon furniture to round out an informative weekend of everything beauty-related. Put the date in your diary! Salon International 2008 takes place October 18 to 20 in London. For more images, check out www.salon52.ca. S
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tIm hArtLeY
PAtrICk CAmeron
tonI & GUY
Andrew BArton And the SAkS Art teAm
rUSh London
Text by: Stephen Puddister Photos: Jamie Carroll for Salon International
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SCENE
ALTERnATiVE HAiR Show TurnS 25 Text by Stephen Puddister Photos by Jamie Carroll for Alternative Hair Show
On Sunday, October 14, at the prestigious Royal Albert Hall in London, England, the Alternative Hair Show celebrated 25 years of raising funds for leukemia research. The show was a spectacular affair showcasing the unhinged creativity of some of the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prominent and passionate hairstylists. Under the theme of Elements, attending and contributing industry icons like Alternative Hair Show founder Tony Rizzo, worldwide honorary patron Vidal Sassoon, show sponsors Bruno, Anthony and Guy Mascolo, Tim Hartley and Robert Cromeans, among many more, created a stunning and magical evening. S
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• Access over 125 free classes with your admission fee • Join world-renowned artists for extensive education at the beauty event of the year • Plus, discover & purchase thousands of products in the lively exhibit hall Haircolor Sessions:
Main Stage Performances by:
Deanita Brown Frank & Belinda Gambuzza Robert Nowlin Adrienne Rogers Ezekiel Taylor
Nick Arrojo Rodney Cutler Vivienne Mackinder Patrick McIvor Martin Parsons Trent Day Mia Liguori McHugh William Whatley
Nail & Makeup Sessions: Simmy Bredal-Bell Anne DeMarco Charles Douglas Sam Fine Natalie Plain Vicki Peters Jaime Schrabeck Reggie Wells Noreen Young
Haircutting/Styling Sessions: ©2008 QUESTEX MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL PASQUALE
Nick Arrojo Darren Brokaw Rodney Cutler Brad Graham Jim Jones Alex Ioannou Giovanni Guintoli Vivienne Mackinder Patrick McIvor Bonnie Megowan Jayson Morgan Martin Parsons Bennie Pollard Anu Prestonia Michael Puccetti Jeffrey Reitz Josef & Shaun Settle Maria Thompson Yosh Toya Leah Watson
NEW FOR
2008
Business & Inspirational Sessions: Leon Alexander Behnam Bakhshandeh Brad Johns Charles Marcus Mark Donovan Howard Hafetz Vivienne Mackinder Larry Kopsa Suzanne Offner Kristi Valenzuela Terence Noonan *Conference program subject to change
Register Today Save $10 when you register
online at www.IBSnewyork.com or call 800.427.2420 Source code 420
A P R I L 2 7- 2 9 , 2 0 0 8 ENDORSED BY
PRODUCED BY
JAV I TS C O N V E N T I O N C E N T E R • N E W YO R K C I T Y CORPORATE SPONSORS
CO-LOCATED WITH
c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry
Modern Sculpture Marc Galati discusses the creative process behind his Contessa 19 collection Te x t e d i t e d b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e
A
lthough it eventually developed a 60s
feel, the original idea behind Modern Sculpture— my Contessa 19 collection—was based on Italian Renaissance art. While on a trip to Florence, Italy, I was really inspired by marble sculpture, particularly the work of Michelangelo. Mostly, I was intrigued by what I learned had been his approach to sculpting. Apparently, Michelangelo claimed to see the statues he carved already within blocks of untouched marble, professing that his role as sculptor was to remove what was in the way of the image. This reaffirmed my approach to cutting hair and my philosophy that it’s really not about what you take off during a cut, it’s about what stays on and how that suits the wearer. Also, I was fascinated by Michelangelo’s work with proportion, which reminded me that a hairstyle has the power to redefine a person’s face and features. When I came back and began trying to figure out how to fuse these principles of sculpture with hair, I consistently came back to the 1960s, the decade that really defined geometrics. Then my challenge became focusing on these ideas but adapting them to what is going on with hair today. It was absolutely a process that allowed me to broaden my artistic parameters. Hair: Marc Galati, Headlines Salon & Spa, Stouffville, Ontario Makeup: Cheryl Gushue Photos: Sebastian Cimetta
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t
“By creating a rounded fringe that shorted over one eyebrow, we created a perception of length that offset the strength of this model’s jaw.” —MG
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march 08 < s a l o n
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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry “I used two shades of red to accentuate the shape of this half-cut, which is essentially smooth on one side and shattered on the other.” —MG
Sixties Style
Inspiration Kolour Wheel A veteran Joico stylist, Galati worked with Vero K-Pak Chrome and other Joico colour products to complete his bold vision.
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19 storyboard
twiggy, keystone press agency; david, istockphoto
Marc Galati’s Contessa
You can’t look to 60s hairdressing and not reference Twiggy. The original super-thin supermodel was one of Galati’s inspirations.
Renaissance Man Galati’s admiration for Michelangelo’s work was solidified during a recent trip to Italy, a journey he now credits with laying the foundation of this collection. S
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OPI SPRING/SUMMER 2008 COLOR CHART
EDITION G (OPI ITEM NO. DC R09)
EDITION C (OPI ITEM NO. DC R04)
EDITION A+ (OPI ITEM NO. DC R02)
Nail Lacquers shown, top to bottom: I’m Indi-a Mood for Love, ElePhantastic Pink, Black Cherry Chutney, Keys to My Karma, MonSooner or Later, Moon Over Mumbai, Yoga-ta Get this Blue!, Get Me to the Taj on Time, Curry Up Don’t Be Late!, Charmed by a Snake*, Lunch at the Delhi*, Royal Rajah Ruby*. *Suzi’s Picks, also available in coordinating Lip Colour and Lip Liner.
Contains no DBP, Toluene, or Formaldehyde.
If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.
Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com. © 2008 OPI Products Inc.
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Collection: Gem Hair: Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson Hair, Body & Mind, Mansfield, England Makeup: Aleesa Hall Styling products: Goldwell Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole
t
scissor sisters
trends
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Collection: Gem Hair: Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson Hair, Body & Mind, Mansfield, England Makeup: Aleesa Hall Styling products: Goldwell Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole
t
orange pop
trends
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flying colours
trends
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Collection: Giancarlo Intini Contessa 19 Makeup Collection Hair and Makeup: Giancarlo Intini Photos: Richard Dubois, Contessa 19
S
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Camouflage
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COMP L E T E COL L E CT I ONS > JOICO Des i g n Co l l ect i o n > A NG ELO S EM INA RA
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> Eco R es ource
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Learn mo re about how y ou can save t h e wo r ld
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F i nd eco -f riend ly hair, nail and est h e t ic s p r o d u c t s
> Th e Mea ning of Organic How t o s e p a r a t e t h e g enui ne g reens from t he eco pose u r s
> L’Or é a l P r o fe s s io n n e l ’s U n iq u e Sh o w in Va n c ou v e r NEw FEATURES
> Expanded c o a s t -t o -c oa st e d u c a t io n lis t in g s
w w w. s a l o n 5 2 . c a JOBS > EVENTS > CONTESSA 42
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+
MORE w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
Courtesy Joico, Design Collection Hair Damien Carney Colour Sue Pemberton Photo Hama Sanders
AT T REVOR S ORb IE 3D
Earth to Salons Ask yourself: Is your salon ready for an
S
uccessful salons and beauty professionals understand the importance of financial and social responsibility. They know that if they don’t pay their bills today, their business won’t exist tomorrow, and they know that treating employees badly or disrespecting their clientele can be detrimental to their lifeline. Now they need to go one step further and look at how they can become environmentally responsible. This is the third pillar of a truly sustainable business model, according to the Natural Step (www. thenaturalstep.ca), a non-profit environmental consulting firm. “Unsustainable environmental practices might not cause us to suffer in the short term, but in the long term, and in a
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By Morella Aguirre
global context, there are major consequences,” says Anouk Bertner, communications manager for the Natural Step.
Compact fluorescent light bulbs use up to
75%
less electricity than regular bulbs
Take the hot-button issue of climate change as an example (go to www.salon52.ca and see featured story What Is Climate Change?). Although its effects, which include more intense and frequent extreme weather disasters (hurricanes, droughts, floods, etc.) with the potential to displace thousands of people, may not seem like something
that could affect your salon’s life, nothing could be further from the truth. Our industry, like all others, is dependent on the earth for resources. Water shortages, for instance—a real threat of climate change—would wreak havoc on the day-to-day operations of any given salon. What’s more important is that the destructive effects of climate change are on the brink of becoming a reality of the not-too-distant future. “We’re approaching a tipping point from which we won’t be able to turn back easily,” explains Bertner. And this is a major reason why so much attention is being given to this issue: because we haven’t reached the tipping point yet, we can still avert the full power of its devastation and avoid the human and financial costs. t
Eco Makeover?
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Is your salon ready for an EcoMakeover?
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values most like their own. Being green is a competitive advantage and a meaningful point of difference.” Nanette Bercu, senior vicepresident and creative director for advertising and PR at John Paul Mitchell Systems (www.paulmitchell. com), agrees. “People like to feel good about where they’re spending their money. They like to see how their purchases are helping bigger causes. It encourages them to spend their money with you.” Bercu notes a statistic from marketing and PR consulting firm Cone: twothirds of Americans report that, when price and quality are equal, they will switch retailers or brands to those associated with a good cause (source: Cone/Roper Cause Trends Report).
80%
of consumers agree it is important for companies to be mindful of their impact on the environment and society She suggests letting your clients know of any and all eco initiatives at your salon through signage, verbal communication and special events. Don’t claim to be something you’re not, but don’t be shy about letting your customers know what you’re doing, how you’re doing it and why. It builds loyalty from your clientele. Bercu warns, however, that it may take time to see a return from certain eco-friendly investments, like switching to solar power. “Yes, you’ll spend money on the initial installation of solar panels,” she explains, “but in 10 years you’ll break even, and from then on you’ll see a return.” Toronto’s World Salon (see
1
story on page 83), got its sun panels installed in December 2003 at a cost of $9,000. With a federal grant of about $3,000 helping to offset the cost, World expects to see a return on the investment by 2010, seven years after their installation. Duber-Smith adds that no matter what, “green is always a secondary benefit.” So never forget that you’re in the business of offering quality beauty services and products. This will always be at the core of your success. Which brings us back to what sustainability really means for salons. “It’s about making a profit while building environmentally sound, socially responsible practices into your business model,” says Duber-Smith. So with that, and after extensive research, here is our Eco Makeover—a collection of practical tips for greening your workspace. Created with input from leaders in sustainable beauty, contributors to the makeover include those quoted in this article (Anouk Bertner, Ray Civello, Darrin Duber-Smith and Nanette Bercu) as well as author, natural health expert and Salon Sustainability Summit presenter Mary Beth Janssen, CEO of America’s Beauty Show Paul Dykstra, SpaRitual vice-president Shel Pink (www. sparitual.com), MOP (Modern Organic Products) marketing specialist Brandi Goode (mopproducts.com) and ROB/B salon manager Nadine T. Galli (www.robbsalon.com). Reflecting the one-step-at-a-time philosophy, this plan is designed to get you moving toward sustainability. Although it does touch upon some large-scale projects, it is made up of advice that should be easy enough to apply, so long as there is a genuine desire. And with Earth Month just round the corner, there’s no better time to start than the present.
ThInk GrEEn
A solid vision of what your green salon will look like takes a bit of research and analysis. The Natural Step, an eco-consulting firm, recommends getting informed, taking note of the wastage at your salon and prioritizing actions. You won’t be able to change everything at once, so it’s important to set these priorities and stay focused. If you notice your water bills are through the roof, perhaps water conservation should be first on your list. Here are few more tips on how to think green:
• Get the staff on board. Hold a
meeting and get everyone invested so there’s no “why do I have to do this?” syndrome. Think of it as an opportunity for team-building—a chance to have common goals and get involved.
• Start any project—a renovation,
an event, a photo shoot—with a simple question: Is there anything I can do to make this green?
• Keep it simple and set a goal. If
your first step is cutting down on water wastage, set a dollar amount that you want to reduce your bill by. t
The question that remains is how to go about it. Since big-picture stuff, like global climactic disaster, seem beyond our control, many of us believe we can’t influence events. The truth, however, is quite different. As Ray Civello, founder of Civello Salons (www.civello.com) and Collega International, the Canadian distributor of Aveda products (www. aveda.com), puts it, “The days of ‘I’m just a hairdresser’ are over. We know that small steps are the way to change things—they build big movements.” In other words, the cumulative power of the professional beauty industry is huge, and the one-step-ata-time philosophy really does work. Your place of employment can do a lot to lessen our society’s negative impact on the earth. From your ability to influence the way your suppliers run their respective companies to the attentive audience you hold every time you cut someone’s hair, you can be influential. However, it all starts with small steps at your salon, at your work station and in your way of thinking. Another important point is that environmentally sustainable business practices are often just sound business practice. Cutting down on your energy consumption—a good environmental practice—can save you money in energy costs. An ecofriendly plan can also set your salon apart from your competition, allowing you to tap into the green market. “There is definitely a growing market for green products and services,” observes Darrin DuberSmith, president of Green Marketing (www.greenmarketing.net) and a speaker at this year’s first Salon Sustainability Summit at America’s Beauty Show in Chicago (www. americasbeautyshow.com). “This market will pay a premium for products and services reflecting
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2
Save Your energY Traditional energy sources come from unsustainable means and produce dangerous amounts of by-products like greenhouse gases, a major culprit in climate change. So any way you look at it, cutting down on your energy consumption is a good idea.
97%
of the CO2 emitted by the Western industrialized countries is from burning fossil fuels (coal, oil and gas) for energy • Change all lights when and where possible. Compact fluorescent
• Invest in major appliances that are not in use. Go a step further and Energy Star approved unplug your electrical equipment (www.energystar.gov). as well—a lot of appliances waste energy even when they're not on. • Wash towels in warm or Or, invest in a smart power bar cold water. Two loads per like the Watt Stopper’s Isolé Plug week at lower temperatures Load Control (www.wattstopper. releases 500 fewer pounds com), which puts a stop to this of CO2 a year. kind of wastage.
• Choose hair styling appliances that cut down on drying time. KQC’s new Therma-Cool Dryer (top right) reduces electricity use by up to 50 per cent and is one of the first dryers to be compliant with the European Union’s strict • Putting your thermostat up 2 environmental rules. In general, degrees in the summer and dryers and irons using infrared down 2 degrees in the winter power, like iTech’s new Wet & Dry will save up to 2,000 pounds of Tourmaline Iron (bottom right) CO2 from being released into the and Hot Tools Tourmaline Tools atmosphere each year. Dryer with Pro-Moisture System (right), save you time and energy. Learn more at www.salon52.ca. • Turn off all lights and appliances (like computers) when they’re
Be neutral Switching to renewable energy is one major way to decrease the quantity of CO2 released into our atmosphere. Aveda has recently become the first beauty company manufacturing with 100 per cent certified wind power. John Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree line funds the planting of enough trees through American Forests (an international non-profit organization • Consider switching to a clean, • Purchase carbon offsets. renewable energy source. In Once you’ve reduced your Ontario and Alberta, Bullfrog energy consumption to a Power (www.bullfrogpower. minimum, look into carbon com) provides electricity from offsetting, paying to plant new emissions-free sources like trees or investing in green wind power and low-impact technologies. Go to www. water power. Or think about salon52.ca for a list of carbon installing solar panels. offset vendors. • Decorate with plants inside • Stop using clear plastic and out. They help neutralize water bottles. From their and humidify the air. Choose manufacturing and shipping to varieties that are native to your how easily they are discarded ecosystem so they require little and not recycled, one-timewater and are easy to care for. use water bottles have a huge
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that preserves a healthier environment with trees) to offset all carbon emissions from the brand’s manufacture and distribution. So what else can you do to reduce your carbon footprint? Reducing your energy, water and material wastage are huge and critical first steps. Here are a few more tips: carbon footprint. Tap water their carbon footprint by is often more regulated than asking that they be delivered bottled water anyway, so one by one. choosing to carry some around • Get to work via earth-friendly in a reusable eco-friendly means. Yes, Canadian winters container is good for the earth are brutal, but consider and good for your health. And taking your bike or walking to besides, do you really need work in the summer. Or start your water to come from Fiji? carpooling with co-workers. • Order in bulk when possible, Major cities have good public and never place an order for transit systems that can be just one item. Remember that more efficient than car travel all the products you use have at rush- hour times. a long life before they reach your hands. Don’t increase t
3
light bulbs or LED lights use about 75 per cent less energy and last up to 10 times longer than conventional ones. Also, set up your work space to make as much use as possible of natural light.
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UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO March 16-17 April 27-28 May 25-26 VANCOUVER March 2-3 EDMONTON May 4-5 *In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths Certified Salon Network today by calling HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.
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go organic
74%
of the general population care about using products made from recycled materials
For plants, like the ones we eat or see on the ingredient lists of our favourite beauty products, the term “organic” means they were grown without conventional pesticides, artificial fertilizers or sewage sludge and were processed without additives like chemical preservatives. To be certified organic, products must be grown and manufactured in a manner that adheres to standards set by the country they are sold in. The connection between organic farming and the eco movement is the belief that organic farms have a smaller environmental impact than conventional farms because they do not consume or release synthetic pesticides into the earth (which can harm soil, water and local terrestrial and aquatic wildlife). Organic farms are also believed to be better than conventional farms at sustaining diverse ecosystems and use less energy and produce less waste. To learn more about organic ingredients in beauty products, go to www.salon52.ca.
5
•
Offer organic products as an option at your salon. Companies like Aveda, MOP and SpaRitual are known for their use of organic ingredients. Look out for Alterna’s new Hemp with Organics line and Gigi’s new Organics Skincare System.
•
Check for authenticity. The last things you want in your salon are low-quality products that claim to be something they’re not. True leaders in the organic beauty biz welcome the scrutiny.
•
When choosing snacks or meals, choose organic. Go even further and buy fair trade coffees and teas and locally grown food when possible.
•
Consider switching to towels and linens made from organic fibres.
Waste ManageMent
You would think that by now the old adage Reuse, Reduce, Recycle would be well adopted. The reality, however, is that most of us just recycle, often forgetting about the reusing and reducing part. Although recycling and using recycled products play a major role in any model of sustainability, cutting down on waste is just as critical. Here are a few ways how:
• •
• •
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Measure your waste. By keeping track of how many resources you use and how much you waste, you’ll realize where you can trim down.
Reduce paper use and go paperless when possible. Use cloth towels instead of paper towels, for example. And don’t forget to support the paper recycling life cycle by purchasing recycled paper material for the washroom or any print promotional material. Aveda and SpaRitual use recycled paper for all their print material and packaging. Use washable glasses and cups instead of disposable ones.
Make sure your recycling system is in place and easy to use. Check
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the labels on your favourite products to see if they can be recycled. Companies like MOP print the international recycling symbol right on the package.
• •
Promote the use of products with minimal packaging.
•
Dispose of hazardous waste in the appropriate manner. Refer to Material Safety Data Sheets and check with your city’s local waste management department for info on proper disposal. Even compact fluorescent light bulbs contain small amounts of mercury and need to be disposed of in a responsible way.
•
Choose reusable implements. Sanitation doesn’t only come from onetime use products. Glass files and implements do not absorb liquid, making them easy to disinfect. They’re also built to last. Go online and check out Dannyco’s Eco-File, Eco-Glass pumice stone and Silk Line’s Glass File (www.dannyco.com).
Toss out that disastrous plastic bag and go for eco alternatives like SeaCliff’s customizable EVA bags—they’re biodegradable, free of heavy metals, water- and salt-resistant and reusable.
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Spa Ritual’s new Aware collection helps support the Go Green Initiative (www.gogreeninitiative .org)
ChemiCal indePendenCe
Except for light and electricity, everything we see and touch is a chemical. So there’s really no reason for the word “chemical” to be seen in a negative way. Carbon dioxide, for example, naturally exists on earth and plays an important part in our planet’s life cycle. The problem with CO2 is that humans have been pumping it out (through inefficient energy sources, for instance) faster than the earth can break it down, causing an imbalance and leading to problems like global warming. So the trick—something CND’s lead science guy Douglas Schoon has been advocating for years—is working with chemicals responsibly and in non-hazardous amounts. Also, opt for products that use ingredients known to have a lighter environmental impact.
• Keep your Material Safety Data Sheet close at hand. Store, use and dispose of all products responsibly.
• Offer ammonia-free hair
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colour. Farouk’s SunGlitz line, relaunched late last year, was actually one of the first. Or look into plant-based hair colour. Aveda’s powerful plant-based colour lines are 93 to 97 per cent naturally derived, which means they’re extra-gentle on the earth.
• Try DBP-, formaldehyde- and toluene-free nail care products. SpaRitual is a leader in eco-chic nail care. So is OPI. In 2006 OPI reformulated its entire line of lacquers, treatments and hardeners without DBP (dibutyl phthalate) and toluene. Formaldehyde has never been an ingredient in OPI lacquers or treatments. China Glaze’s new Ecollection is also free of these ingredients and is packaged with 100 per cent post-consumer fiber and printed with soy-based ink.
• Remember that green and sanitation can go hand in hand. Choose cleaners that are low on VOCs (volatile organic
compounds) or products that use essential oils like tea tree and eucalyptus to disinfect. Think chlorine-, phosphate-, perfume-, and dye-free. Also remember that you can use different cleaners for different surfaces at your salon. There’s a big difference between your manicure implements, which require a very high level of disinfection, and the mirror by the reception desk, which could be effectively cleaned with a water-vinegar solution.
7
• Choose the right hairspray. In today’s world, there’s no excuse for using aerosol hairspray cans that release harmful chemicals into the atmosphere. Any pump hairspray bottle solves the problem. Fancier eco versions are also available. Try Davine’s Eco Hairspray or Elevate from Eufora. Learn more about these products at www.salon52.ca.
Talking to your clients about your envirotactics is more than just good marketing. It can effectively inspire others to travel further down the green road. Aveda once again sets a good example. When founder Horst Rachelbacher began asking for earth-friendly packaging and ingredients from his suppliers, many simply could not supply. It took Aveda’s influence to get them sourcing gentler alternatives to harmful or wasteful materials.
• Inform your clients. Put up signs at
your salon and spa letting them know about your initiatives. Remember to keep all signage and printed material as eco-friendly as possible.
• Involve your clients. Start a recycling
program and offer them rewards for participating (check out the profile on The Mega Project on page 80 as one example). Or, offer a free sampling of your new eco mini-manicure after 50 magazines are brought to your salon’s recycle bin.
• Let your suppliers know that you care
about the earth. It’s about supply and demand. With no demand, there will be no supply. t
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Water Break
Sanijet Organic Mirai Pipeless Spa
1%
only of the earth’s water is in lakes, groundwater and other usable sources
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Water is a depleting, finite resource that needs protection, so its conservation is a huge opportunity for salons and spas. Don’t forget that the water used in toilet tanks goes through the same cleaning process as our drinking water from the tap, making it just as precious and costly to maintain.
• Change your work patterns first. Make sure the water is off
when you’re massaging or conditioning hair. When you wash your hands, turn the water off to lather and back on to rinse.
• Install water-efficient fixtures like low-flow showerheads and
faucets around your salon and spa. Toilets are water guzzlers (in an average four-person home, 40 per cent of water that’s consumed is used for flushing the toilet), so switch to low-flow models. New dual flush designs (with low-flush and regular-flush options) are also on the market. Drop a brick, rock or bottle with pebbles into traditional tanks to modernize their water use. It may not sound glamorous, but it works.
Building Material Very few salons and spas have the luxury of building their workspaces from the ground up. ROB/B, an OPI concept salon in Studio City, California, is one of the lucky few. Demonstrating a genuine commitment to ensuring a healthy future, ROB/B will be the only LEED gold-certified nail salon in the world when it opens this spring. Run in Canada by the Canada Green Building Council (www. cagbc.org), LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental
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Design) is an international program that rates buildings on environmental sustainability. Through LEED and other experts in eco construction, the team at ROB/B has gained a comprehensive understanding of building materials, site management, energy optimization and water reduction. So consider going down the LEED route if major renos are on the horizon. Here are a few more tips to consider when renovating your space:
• Make sure your fixtures and plumbing are in good shape. That leaky faucet you’ve been ignoring is a sustainability no-no.
• Even though we love pedicures, traditional pedicure chairs can consume their fair share of water. Consider equipping your pedicure station with water-conserving options like Sanijet’s new Organic Mirai Pipeless Spa (www.sanijet. com). Made with eco-friendly materials, the Organic Mirai uses 98 per cent less water for cleaning than traditional piped systems.
• Get informed on ways to reuse your greywater. As opposed to blackwater (the dirty water that goes down the toilet when we flush), grey water (water that’s been used for washing and is not pristine but not grossly dirty either) can be reused. Learn more so that when you’re ready for a major reno, you’re armed with the right info and a few ideas. Go to www. greywater.com and www.cagbc.org (for the Canada Green Building Council).
• Choose renewable materials
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like bamboo or recycled laminates when picking out flooring, counter tops and other surfaces. Scrutinize your building material supplier to make sure the goods are genuinely ecofriendly. Install energy-efficient gear, like double- or triple-paned windows. Make sure energy leakage is not a problem at your salon. Use natural light to your
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full advantage. Consult an eco-savvy architect about daylighting options. Buy products that will last. Well-designed, durable equipment creates less waste in the long run. Look into eco grants and incentives from the federal government. There is significant money available to help offset costs. Go to http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/ corporate/incentives.cfm for more.
Your Personal Life The Eco Makeover ends with a friendly reminder that your work life is only a part of your life. Making changes at home is also a great investment in the future. Check out the Eco Resource guide on www.salon52.ca to help you on your way. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
Quality that inspires creativity
News Clips
at length!
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by pam Fulford
air extensions are big business in the beauty industry. “By 2010, 20 per cent of salon business will be alternative hair,” says Emmanuel Mossa, business development manager for Balmain Hair Extensions. “You have to get on board.” Adds Seanna King, general manager of Artist Choice, “In 2004, hair extensions earned $200 million in the industry; for 2007 that figure had grown to $3 billion.”
BA lM AI n H AI r E x t E n S I on S the prêt-a-porter line has add-on pieces with clips, used to give volume, colour and length; the pieces have a soft-shaped edge that makes them blend in more naturally. Balmain’s new double hair extension uses your own hair to install and takes less than one hour. Also, the company is excited about its new disconnector gun, which uses ultraviolet light, not solvent, to remove permanent extensions. Visit www.balmainextensions.com.
H SC I n t E r n At I on A l/G r E At lE n GtH S look out for a new extension line called Expressions in the HSC product roster. or try a little Hair Affair, a line of clip-in human hairpieces available in 14-, 18- and 23-inch lengths; a one-piece synthetic extension rounds out the line. Go to www.greatlengths.net.
G lo BA l B E St B E A u tY Easy to install and made with 100 per cent human hair, Global Best Beauty’s new doubleloop system hair extensions can be worn for up to three or four months and are reusable. the company has also come out with a new keratin bond for its fusion line; clients can use any shampoo or conditioner with it. Go to www.globalbestbeauty.com.
E u ron Atu rA lS
n E oE xt E n S I on S neoExtensions’ new website gives extensive information on the product line. While the major goal was to address stylists’ specific questions there are also portals for distributors and clients. Also, neoExtensions’affiliation with the Weekend to End Breast Cancer is on again this year. A pink synthetic 14-inch highlight will be sold at salons in major cities across Canada, with all proceeds going to the charity. Go to www.neoextensions.net.
D r E A M C AtC H E r S BY PA r I S H I lto n Plans for the future include developing a tool to attach the cylinder that is used to install the extensions. Presently, only one 20-inch length is available but two more will be added. there will be an emphasis on education, including a manual to show stylists the different techniques they could use to attach extensions. Check out www.dreamcatchers.com.
H AI r-D o SA lon C lI P-I n E x t E n S I on S new products from Hair-Do include a 19-inch straight layered piece and curly extensions that are easily flat-ironed. the company is also launching a chignon piece that will provide an instant updo. In addition, the Canadian distributors of HairDo, Artist Choice, will now carry the raquel Welch line. these clip-ins are individual extensions that you attach separately. Visit www.artistchoice.ca. S
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hair mark leeson, mark leeson hair, body & mind, uk photo andrew o’toole
look out for the new eurocouture runway Couture extensions line. the system takes three hours to install and lasts for months with regular maintenance. Another alternative is the eurocouture Clip-In System, which allows stylists to customize clip-ins for their clients. Visit www.euronaturals.ca.
What Beauty Does Eco-luxe guru Ray Civello shows it can be done
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by Morella Aguirre
o let’s contact Ray,” said Laura Dunphy, Salon’s publisher and senior vice-president.
Our entire creative team, green with excitement over our first-ever Green Issue, had sat down to hash out its details. Inevitably, the question of our cover page was front and centre. We knew we wanted it to be fresh, to say spring, but we wanted more. How would we interpret the idea of eco-beauty? How would we consolidate environmental responsibility with highimpact sophistication? The uncontested decision was to call on Ray Civello, owner of Civello salons, Collega International founder and Aveda-man extraordinaire. He’s lived, eaten and breathed Aveda culture for over 20 years, so we knew pairing with Ray would yield the results we were looking for—both in principle and in end product. A short game of phone tag later, Ray and the Civello-Collega team were on board for the project.
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We met with Ray during the holiday season, as he juggled a personal relocation, planning for our cover shoot, the demanding travel schedule he keeps for his national distribution business, Collega, and the natural stresses and pleasures that come with that time of year. We went over details—schedules, photographer, overall look and feel. We also chatted about Ray’s many projects, particularly his salons, his distributorship and Aveda’s latest emphasis on the Beauty Is as Beauty Does tagline. “There are different aspects to Aveda,” outlined Ray. “And it’s natural for consumers and hairstylists to be interested in separate aspects. But we wanted to go deeper than just first impressions and really tell the story of what Aveda is about.” The answer has been to revamp and incorporate Beauty Is as Beauty Does into a new ad campaign for both consumer and trade advertising. Streamlining Aveda’s main objectives and commitments, i.e. environmental and social sustainability alongside top-of-the-line professional beauty products, the campaing’s message is strong, with activist-style dynamism. Aveda’s switch to 100 per cent certified wind energy in its Minnesota manufacturing plant was highlighted in this year’s first Beauty Is as Beauty Does ad. Waste reduction is next. A long-time advocate of Aveda ideals through Collega (distributor of Aveda, Novvo furnishings and more) and the Civello salon group, Ray is also active in spreading the company’s sustainability theories outside the borders of professional beauty. He’s a passionate lecturer at business seminars, owns an eco-conscious design-build real estate company, Melacor, and has actively been increasing Aveda presence at large-scale consumer lifestyle events like the Green Living Show.
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Nevertheless, pro beauty is still at the heart of all things Civello. Creating a cohesive system throughout the over 400 salons Collega services, owning and operating the four Canadian Aveda Academies and Toronto’s Aveda Institute as well as handling all the Aveda retail spaces nationwide is no easy feat. “I still travel a lot,” explains Ray. “I’ve learned it’s important for salons to have contact with various people from Collega. It’s not just about me, and it’s not just about the sales people. They need contact with all levels of mangement.” With green-guided renovations planned for all four Toronto-area Civello salons, full enrolment sheets at the Aveda Academies and a growing product roster at Collega, Ray’s plans for a growing, adapting business model seem to be well on track. On the day of our cover shoot, we arrive at photographer Kint Quon’s downtown Toronto studio to see hairstylists busy at work, Aveda products in hand. There’s a rack full of eco-chic fashion next to a table of sustainable accessories. In the back, an organic, locally grown (when possible) breakfast is served. We’re told the team’s lunch will be just as earth-friendly. All dishes will be hand-washed, and instead of bottled water, we get a Sigg bottle of our own to fill from the tap. “We’re calculating all the emissions we’re using today in order to purchase carbon offsets,” says Ray as he gives us the grand green tour. We’re impressed. No detail had been left unattended. And our gorgeous March cover has become more than just a beautiful end result. It’s now about the right means to the right end. It’s about what beauty does. S
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Joicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Design Collection takes styling to the next level
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State of the ART
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amien Carney’s signature style of hair design is one of the most recognizable in the industry. Never truly straying away from what he does best—a masterful combination of technical skill and free-hand cutting—Carney evolves season after season through slight alterations of his time-tested capabilities. As international artistic director for Joico, Carney’s work also progresses in perfect synchronicity with his employer. Safe to say, the two grow together, producing styles that have become synonymous with both the Carney and the Joico names. The latest of these joint ventures is the Design Collection, a set of cuttingedge images released with the launch of a five-product styling range of the same name. Created to achieve movable and adaptable styles, the Design Collection’s imagery delivers the same messaging as its sister product line: its photos depict sleek cuts welcoming movement and varied styling.
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Collection: Design Collection Hair: Damien Carney Colour: Sue Pemberton Photo: Hama Sanders
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Stephanie MacFarlane of Salon Consultants International offers strategies to turn the dead zone into busy zone time.
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e all know it and dread it—the dead zone. It’s that time, usually between 1 and 4 in the afternoon of any weekday in a salon or spa when stylists seem to start multiplying at the front reception desk. It’s eerily quiet, and all the clients seem to have disappeared into an abyss. Managers, all of a sudden, are besieged by a sea of requests of “Can I go home now? I’m not busy.”
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photos courtesy hs studio salonspa halifax
Dead Busy
It’s the time that managers and owners alike fear, because it means they will get none of their own work done since time will be taken up with trying to find tasks to keep their staff busy. What if you no longer had to fear this slow time? In fact, what if you could coach your team to some easy and proactive behaviours that could eliminate the dead zone from your salon or spa entirely? Try these simple steps to turn your dead zone into your B.U.S.Y. Zone!
and more relaxing in the afternoons.” or try using an incentive for clients who pre-book during those time slots, such as a complimentary hand massage with a chemical service or a nourishing hair treatment during their shampoo service. also, don’t be afraid to seek out clients, like nurses, who are more likely able to make appointments during these slow times. Try direct marketing to those groups with incentives to book. It can bring new business in a time period that traditionally lost you money!
The B.U.S.Y. Zone
S CHedUlIng for SUCCeSS
There are four main areas to take control of to ensure the hours your salon or spa is open are as productive and profitable as possible.
Proper associate scheduling is one of the simplest ways to take control of the traffic flow in your salon. Ultimately, attracting more clients to your salon during those periods should be your long-term strategy, but while you are working on this, try minimal coverage on weekday afternoons. Use a combination of 12-hour and four- to sixhour shifts to break up an associate’s week, instead of five eighthour shifts that invariably include the dead zone.
1. 2. 3. 4.
Business-building Understanding your market Scheduling for success You time
B USIneSS-BUIldIng don’t wait for the busy bus—go out and flag it down! Coaching your service providers to take their business-building into their own hands is a behaviour that will save you time and make you both money. Try these business-building actions with your team:
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Have your stylists call their clients who have had chemical services or bought retail recently to follow up with them about product usage or concerns with colour.
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Send out thank you cards to clients who have been in recently for services, or try welcome back cards for new clients, with offers or incentives for return visits.
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Cleanliness is important to a client’s overall impression of a salon. This is a good time to clean and tidy the stations and common-use areas.
U nderSTandIng YoUr MarkeT We often make the mistake of accepting the status quo of client flow—but you don’t have to. More and more, today’s consumer is moving toward less traditional work schedules, from baby boomers who are retiring to shift-work jobs or work-at-home scenarios. These clients can become your best way to fill these afternoon time slots—but you have to offer them to them. Coach your service providers to offer these appointments with suggestive selling language such as “The salon is less hectic
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Y oU TIMe Until associates are fully booked with clients during these times, coach them to use this time to track their results and do some analysis of their business. Having their heads in their business is the best way to get them focused on what they need to do to grow it! also, you can book your coaching sessions with your stylists using these dead zone time slots. Salon owners who achieve at a high level spend time with their associates monthly, coaching and mentoring them on how to grow their business—in fact, it is one of the most important activities a salon owner can do.
leT’S geT B.U.S.Y. It is up to you as an owner or manager to take control of the dead zone in your salon or spa. Your team will follow your lead, so take action and so will they. don’t forget to enroll your team in some brainstorming around dead zone strategies at your next team meeting. You’ll be surprised how receptive they are to ideas that will get them busy, and then it truly becomes a team effort to fill the book. good luck and get B.U.S.Y.!
Stephanie MacFarlane is director of business development for Salon Consultants International. You can reach her through www.salonmastery.com S
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o win one Contessa Award is incredible. But to win three—2007 Canadian Hairstylist, Elite Master Hairstylist and Makeover Colourist of the Year—is simply mind-blowing. In my 18 years of styling, 11 of which have been spent at Salon Gaboa, in Woodbridge, Ontario, I have never felt such a sense of achievement as I have this year. Professionally speaking, winning these awards has given me many creative opportunities and opened many doors. I have been mentioned in numerous local newspapers, international hairdressing magazines, on Citytv’s CityLine, the TLN Network and have had my run on the Superstar Hair Challenge. It has been an honour to be invited to international hair shows as a guest artist and be recognized for my work. Teaching gives me a great sense of pride. To see young men and women in my class genuinely interested in how I established my career, and so enthusiastic to learn about this business, is incredibly inspiring. It pushes me to become a better artist so
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Frank Dicintio looks back at his reign as King Contessa
that I can show how much a hairstyle or colour can improve a person. New friendships have also sprouted this year, from attending award shows and travelling, and sometimes even from clients coming to the salon because they’ve heard about the creative hairstyles Salon Gaboa offers. The people I’ve met have given me recognition in my community, attention from manufacturers and opportunities to do platform work. The bonds of friendship made this year won’t be forgotten. As winner of these awards, I felt I took on a new role in the Canadian beauty industry. The Contessas helped sharpen my skills as a stylist. These titles not only furthered my career, but also changed my sense of duty. They taught me to strive for more from myself and make quality my first priority. Though I may never be perfect, by doing my best I feel I can fulfill the honour the Contessa Awards invest in their titles. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
hair frank dicintio photo babak contessa 18
A Year in Review T
Cuccio Naturale Scentual Spa Signature Service Kit contains: 24 ct. Effervescent Balls, 2 Packs of Aqua Leaves, 8 oz. Deep Dermal Transforming Wrap, 19.5 oz. Sea Salts, 8 oz. Body Butter Blend and 2 oz. Scentual Spa Elixir.
Salon: $139.90 for both kits & get a Free banner Enhancing The Scentual Spa Experience
In Canada 800.661.9997 780.465.2131 www.cuccio.com
Tactile Tease
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Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r
ngelo Seminara was the toast of the British Hairdressing world when he was crowned 2007 British Hairdresser of the Year with this stunning collection, titled 3D.
Seminara has fashioned and crafted incredible textured looks that tantalize and
tease the eye and prove that he is an artistic force who pushes the boundaries of inspiration for the future. The result is a collection evoking the look and feel of fine fabric designs, bamboo and delicate flowers that beg to be touched and admired. created each look, go to www.salon52.ca.
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To see the complete collection and more detailed descriptions of how Seminara
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June 1 & 2, 2008
Don’t miss the premiere beauty event!
Your beauty show for professional education! Register on or before April 5th for a $20 savings! Main Stage New trends and techniques from your favorite artists Hair Color Today Unbelievable radiance, shine and color techniques Global Texture Develop multicultural clientele at ANY salon Nail Care New advancements in nail care and design Premiere DAYSPA Conference Skin care solutions taught by industry experts Business Highlights Empower yourself to make the most of your beauty business
For more information and to register, visit Beauty Industry Professionals Only
www.premiereorlandoshow.biz or call 800-335-7469
orlando/orange county convention center • orlando, florida
This pleated texture is inspired by the desert rose and resulted in the hair becoming a kind of Issey Miyake fabric. Created by pressing varying sizes of zig zag into the hair it has created an uneven and dishevelled shape built to suit the balance of the models face, head and neck.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;AS
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TINTED LOVE™ It’s a soft sell with this Sun-kissed Daily Moisturizer with a touch of Sunless Tanner.
14 KARAT GOLD™ All you touch turns to golden brown. Fade Defying™ ultra dark SunStay™ for a longer lasting, darker tan.
MELT™ Wrap your body in SteamXtreme™ warmth “the non-tingle heat™” and ultra advance 7 (VII) Bronzing Blend.
Designer Skin™’s 2008 Miracle Collection line-up features six new tanning lotions and two new after tan lotions. All Designer Skin™ products are Paraben Free. Miracle Collection – Age defying and firming formulas from Designer Skin™ for you... you sexy thing!
1-800-661-6292
Please contact your UVALUX Customer Sales Representative today! www.uvalux.com
CALGARY
MONTREAL
TORONTO
WOODSTOCK
VANCOUVER
Collection: 3D By Angelo Seminara at Trevor Sorbie Hair: Angelo Seminara Makeup: Cheryl Phelps-Gardner Clothes Stylist: Desiree Photographer: Trevor Leighton 68
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ESTHETICS
Perfect match
Chantel Simmons, editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, explains why a good consultation is the secret to glowing skin.
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After the peel, my skin was glowing and I didn’t need to wear any makeup to leave the salon, though the salon offered me a complimentary makeup session (a must, if a client is heading back to work). Grace told me to avoid working out for 24 hours, since excessive perspiration can cause the production of melanin (resulting in pigmentation). That evening, I didn’t wash my face, but applied Match’s Iricalming cream every few hours to keep my skin hydrated, and I drank plenty of water. Grace warned me that I may start to see a light to medium flaking of skin within the next 24 to 48 hours—for this reason she suggested I get the peel on a Wednesday or Thursday so I’d peel over the weekend. This information— provided before I booked my appointment—was key, and any esthetician could earn their keep in repeat clients by being honest about after-effects. For the next five days, the no-excessive sweating rule continued, though I was able to do light exercise such as yoga, while continuing to use the Match at-home skin-care products. I was also told to avoid swimming, hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms or even aiming a hot blow-dryer at the area that had been peeled. I kept waiting to peel, but I never did. My skin felt and looked a bit dry, especially on my chin, where I noticed a few breakouts. By the following Wednesday (one week after the peel), the blemishes had cleared up and my skin looked refreshed – and actually started to glow. If your salon would like to carry the Match Peel treatment products and athome skin care line, call 1.877.787.5273 or visit www.matchyourskin.com. S Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.
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Hair Lina Morra-LoMangino, MicHaeL’s Hair BoDY MinD
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’m eternally in search of glowing skin. I’ve tried microdermabrasion, exfoliating treatments and nearly every type of facial offered at more than 50 salons and spas. Some work, some don’t. And what I’ve learned is that customization is key. So when I met the creators of the Match Peel and they explained the company’s different peel treatments—tailored to clients’ specific skin type, age and needs—I was immediately interested. After Grace Nesci, trainer with Biotanical Therapeutics, creator of the Match line of products and procedures, reviewed my skin, she suggested I start with Texture Peel 1. “We’ve nicknamed it the Glow Peel,” she says. “That’s exactly how it leaves your skin—glowing and gorgeous.” Sign me up. Two weeks before my treatment, Grace gave me a list of dos and don’ts. It included: Do swap my regular cleanser, toner, moisturizer and eye cream for the Match at-home skin care products. Don’t use chemical peels, collagen or other injectable fillers, any glycolic acid products or wax or depilatories (including pore strips), and avoid sun exposure or tanning. On the day of the treatment, I went to Jeanet Spa & Salon, just one of many in the country that offer the Match Peel and products. Grace explained the three levels of peel: Texture Peel 1 contains 6 per cent TCA (trichloroacetic acid); Texture Peel 2 contains 10 per cent TCA; and the Retinol Peel can be used in conjunction with the Texture Peel to accelerate skin turnover. The service itself was just like getting a facial. But unlike some peels, which have to be neutralized after just a minute or two to ensure the skin isn’t overexposed (causing redness and burning), the Match Peel is selfneutralizing, making it nearly foolproof for any esthetician. I felt a slight tingling as the peel was working, but Grace used a fan to keep my face cool.
Makeup ivY LaM pHoto JoHn parkes contessa 19
Texture Peel I, Texture Peel II and the Retina Peel
esthetics
It’s Milady Industry bible updated for 2008
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By Pam Fulford
he most recent version of Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook was recently introduced by NP Group, the Canadian distributor of this industry bible. This year marks the 80th anniversary of Milady, which is updated every five years, and in honour of that occasion NP Group invited a special guest to speak at a teachers’ conference held last fall in Toronto. Over 200 teachers from public and private schools plus community colleges from across Canada attended to hear Letha Barnes from Milady Publishing. Barnes is the director of the Career Institute and the seminar and consulting division of Milady and Cengage Learning. “Letha is a third generation cosmetology school owner,” says Grazina Connell, managing director of NP Group. “She has a true passion for improving the cosmetology industry. Over her career, she has spoken to over 10,000 educators and professionals.” Not only is she a frequent presenter, but Barnes also is the writer of many of Milady’s educational materials. She wrote the company’s Master Educator Guide and Instructor’s Package for Teacher Training. These are available from NP Group, along with student and faculty supplements. The textbook itself is written by various industry experts and divided into 32 separate chapters. There is updated information in many areas—including sanitation and infection control, for example—and an entire new chapter on hair colour. The whole text has been refreshed, with new illustrations, photography and layout to provide an easy-to-follow format. “Milady is used as the standard throughout the world. Chinese, Vietnamese and Spanish translations are available,” says Connell. Sparked by the newest version of Milady, NP Group owner and president Stephen Cheung has made a deliberate move to focus on education in the cosmetology field, with the educators’ conference being one of the first of many seminars. “People are afraid of change,” says Cheung. “Our industry is changing, so education has to change, too.” Professional development excites and refreshes teachers, who in turn pass that on to their students. Included in the conference were innovative teaching techniques that provided attendees with tools they could use in the classroom: DVDs, textbooks, slides, PowerPoint presentations and workbooks. “All this information is part of the trickle-down effect,” says Connell. Better-educated teachers turn out better -educated students. For Cheung, education has a far-reaching effect. “It’s not just for students in school. Any professional benefits from updating their knowledge,” he says. “And think of all the people coming in from out of the country who want to get into the industry. Milady offers them the standard and tools to get their license.” To learn more about the new Milady textbook, go online to www.salon52.ca. S
(L-R) Milady’s Letha Barnes and NP Group’s Stephen Cheung , The NP team
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Cashing in
Three surefire ways to boost your income By Tina Christopoulos
EyElash E xtEnsions introduce lash extensions to your menu and help create enviable lashes for your clients. Vivian Ko from Vancouver’s Wink Beauty lounge says you can charge around $75 for a full set of 40 lashes on each eye; a total of $150 for an hour and a half’s worth of work. Ko advises: “you need to take a proper course on safety and hygiene.” sarah Mair, eyelash extensions artist at Jeanet spa & salon in toronto is an advocate of educating your clients. “ask about allergy to latex, as most of the glues are latex-based,” she explains. Moreover, always send them home with proper tips to maintain the look. “the main rule is don’t pick, but i also suggest they purchase a non-oily eye makeup remover,” says Mair. having the appropriate product on your shelves also creates an added retail opportunity. also, carry temporary false eyelashes for the client with a special occasion.
hair and makeup giancarlo intini photo richard dubois contessa 19
airBrush MaKEup Make your clients the envy of all their friends—and perhaps attract their business—by creating precise and even coverage using a (to-your-advantage) quick makeup application system with the help of the latest airbrush technology. Many manufacturers have noticed the trend in airbrush cosmetics, developing low-pressure systems that provide precise application, like Dinair inc.’s line of airbrush cosmetics for daily use. the light coverage doesn’t block pores the way traditional makeup can when applied with a sponge, and lasts all day without having to be touched up. you can apply concealer, eye shadow or blush with personalized colour blends to suit your clients. all you have to do is mix a few drops of one colour with another directly in the airbrush system, and you’re ready to work in seconds. For more information, contact Dinair inc. at 877.561.9274.
MEn’s MarKEt sure, trendsetting designers like John Galliano have been sending men down the runway with pronounced cheekbones and defined eyes for ages, but think commercial makeup is only for women? then you’re missing out on a huge emerging market. Cosmetics companies have jumped on the trend, specifically for men’s corrective makeup. iredale Mineral Cosmetics recently introduced a mineral line for men, including five bronzing shades with an spF 18 and a specially designed brush for application, perfect for covering blotchiness, rosacea or troublesome redness caused by sensitive skin. and the spF 15 lip Balm is the perfect partner for the mineral bronzers; it uses no chemical sunscreens, just edible zinc. S
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nails
Vuitton, CND featuring
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bottles of polish were used to paint 690 fingers
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models donned 17 CND nail colours
6
custom-blended colours were created especially for the show
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CND’s runway marathon wraps up in Paris
A
brand known for its runway-friendly creativity, CND closed its spring 2008 runway tour at one of the season’s most anticipated presentations, the Louis Vuitton show in Paris. A partnership between Louis Vuitton artistic director Marc Jacobs and American artist Richard Prince set the tone for the collection, which showcased the latest generation of LV handbags—brightly pigmented bags featuring images and text by Prince. Referencing Prince’s Nurse paintings—a series of works premised on medical romance novels—the show began with a parade of sexy supermodel nurses wearing translucent plastic trenches and CND’s Company Red on perfectly manicured tips. Notable models included Stephanie Seymore, Eva Herzigova, Nadja Auermann and Naomi Campbell. To prep for the show, CND’s Amanda Fontanarossa attended three production meetings where she and the creative team at Vuitton determined the 17 colours for the show. Bright and powerful colours like Hot Pop Orange, Blue, Yellow and Pink burst though the sheer netted gloves worn by many of the show’s models. Six custom-blended nail colours were also created for the show.—MA
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Photos courtesy cND
Show Stats
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nails
“Sell” is not a four-letter word
By Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive VP and artistic director, OPI Products Inc.
OPI’s Suzi Weiss-Fischmann shares her views on retailing
f
or years, we’ve been encouraging nail professionals to retail to their clients. Here’s the logic: you know your clients need hand and nail care products, and you know they’re buying these products anyway, so they might as well purchase from you! And yet, some techs are still afraid their clients will be offended if they try to sell them something. In a survey, we asked salon clients how they felt about nail techs recommending products. An astounding 95 per cent said they welcome and expect product recommendations. And nearly 50 per cent said they will probably buy the products recommended. This means that consumers—who spend millions on personal care products—want expert advice from those they trust. And who better to give advice than a professional? Many nail techs, however, lack confidence when it comes to making product recommendations, even though they have no problem recommending service options. The solution is for techs to recommend products in the same way they recommend services, and suggest items that will help the client. You don’t need to become a super-salesperson or change your personality to start retailing, because selling can be as simple as stating what you see. For example, if a client’s skin and cuticles look a bit dehydrated, say so. Then recommend the appropriate products to alleviate the dryness, like OPI’s Avoplex Cuticle Replenishing Oil (pictured left). At the end of the service, just remember to ask if your client would like to take the cuticle oil home with her. The biggest salon retail items include lotions, treatments and nail lacquer. OPI has space-saving displays for these items that fit on the nail table or reception desk. Remember to keep these small items stocked in the drawer of a nail table. It doesn’t take a lot of space to keep key retail items on hand. S
Retailing tips from Suzi •
• •
•
Keep a small supply of nail essentials in your drawer: Avoplex Cuticle Oil To Go, the latest collection colours from OPI, Avoplex Lotion and High-Intensity Hand Cream, Nail Adhesive, Base and Top Coat, quick-dry products, etc. Feature an Edition A display from an OPI Nail Lacquer Collection on your nail table and/or at the reception area. Observe your clients’ nail and skin condition and recommend products during services. Remember to ask your client if she would like to take the recommended products with her. Ask your Authorized OPI Distributor about other space-saving displays you can use to merchandise products in your salon.
Trend: Bright and commanding statement colours Selections from The India Collection by OPI
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ta n n i n g
Vitamin D deficiency
a
Are tanning beds the solution?
The Vitamin D Council in California has several tips you can share with your clients and incorporate into your business.
•
Recommend that your clients get their vitamin D level tested.
•
Never allow skin to burn. The level of vitamin D production is sufficient before skin turns pink.
•
Ensure your light bulbs emit both UVA and UVB light as UVB is necessary for vitamin D production.
•
Tanning or direct sunlight has the advantage of never being toxic, unlike supplements that can contain overly high amounts of the vitamin. The council suggests taking 2000 international units a day if you are not tanning or out in the sunlight.
Want to know more? Here are four websites you can investigate and refer your clients to if they want more information.
• •
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www.vitamindcouncil.com www.tancanada.org
s a l o n > march 08
• •
www.slate.com www.smarttan.com
re you getting enough vitamin D? It may be worth asking your clientele. Vitamin D deficiency, according to an American study released last year, is a growing concern. And mere minutes a week in the right tanning bed might provide a solution to the problem. Exposure to sunlight is the most effective way to get vitamin D, but because of our long winters, Canadians may be coming up short. “Ninety-seven per cent of Canadians are vitamin D deficient,” says Steve Gilroy, executive director of the Joint Canadian Tanning Association. Although a daily 10- to 15-minute dose of sunlight may solve the problem, many people don’t get that. It’s also hard to get enough vitamin D through diet and supplements. So how does a vitamin D deficiency affect your health? Years of study indicate that it’s linked to a host of diseases, like breast, colon and prostate cancer, juvenile diabetes, multiple sclerosis and other autoimmune diseases like rheumatoid arthritis—and the list goes on and on. “Studies indicate that people have a 66 to 70 per cent increase in cancer if they are deficient in vitamin D,” says Gilroy. Vitamin D also allows the body to absorb calcium, helping to keep bones strong. Researchers link inadequate vitamin D with osteoporosis and rickets, a bone disease that was common in children before our milk was fortified with vitamin D. According to some studies, adults would have to drink up to 40 glasses of milk a day to get the optimum amount of the vitamin. Tanning beds provide exposure akin to sunlight—they simulate the sun’s natural rays with a combination of 95 per cent UVA and 5 per cent UVB. “It is the UVB that promotes vitamin D production,” says Gilroy. “And over 90 per cent of tanning beds in Canada will provide optimum levels of the vitamin.” He explains that two 10-minute tanning sessions a week would be enough to get the required amount of vitamin D. A deterrent for some clients is that most dermatologists are firmly against tanning, believing that any overexposure to light—either outdoors or in a tanning bed—increases the chance of skin cancer. “Moderation is the key,” says Gilroy. “Do not overexpose your skin.” But while vitamin D experts and dermatologists face off about the pros and cons of natural light and tanning beds, there have been some interesting developments in the past months. One of the most significant for the Canadian tanning industry is the fact that Fabutan Sun Tan Studios, the country’s largest indoor tanning company, is now permitted to market its tanning beds as a source of vitamin D production, which links them to a medical solution for that vitamin deficiency. It sheds a whole new light on the situation! S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
HAIR LIZANNE LAURIN mAkEUp jocELyN cAbALLERo pHoTo RHELLo yoRobE coNTESSA 19
Fast Facts On Vitamin D anD tanning
by Pam Fulford
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CALGARY
MONTREAL
TORONTO
1-800-661-6292 WOODSTOCK
VANCOUVER
PROFILE
Megahair staff shot on location at one of their Vancouver salons
the mega projeCt by Kim Hughes
PHOTOS DOminic ScHaefer
Celebrating 10 years of helping the planet, one bottle at a time
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She may be a stylish, upwardly mobile beauty biz executive, but Milajne Soligo (pictured above with her father) has the soul of a tree-hugger. In fact, the upbeat vice-president of the expansive BC-based Megahair Family group of salons has been at the vanguard of the green movement since 1997. That’s when, along with her dad, company president and founder Mark Banicevic, Soligo launched their MegaBuck/ EccoBuck incentive program, which rewards consumers who recycle their empty hair care containers at Megahair shops with dollar-off coupons redeemable toward the purchase of new products at those same outlets. “We basically have a warehouse delivery driver who visits all of our locations each week for pickups and then drops off at various depots throughout the Lower Mainland,” Soligo explains, adding that any brand of shampoo or conditioner is eligible for recycling. “So to put that in perspective, in a week, one of our busier locations is probably recycling around two to three full garbage bags. Added to that are the recycling containers we display in our salons so people see that we recycle and we’re prompted to discuss our program with our guests.” Since its inception, Soligo estimates the MegaBuck program has kept roughly 600,000 empty containers out of landfill sites. It’s also proven more sanitary than a tried-butabandoned product-refill campaign. Best, the program lures potential clients into one of the Megahair Family’s 17 bricksand-mortar outlets such as Eccotique Spas and Salons, Zennkai Salons and Cut Stops. That in turn advances another pressing goal on Soligo’s agenda: to wean vulnerable consumers off cheap, substandard drug store products while coaxing them towards superior salon-quality products such as Redken, AG, Aveda and Joico. “Honestly, professional products make such a difference,” Soligo says. “I remember being at my girlfriend’s house a few years ago and almost having a heart attack because I saw Herbal Essence in her shower. I was like, ‘Hang on a minute.
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megaBuck program = 600,000 containers out of landfill sites
We cannot be friends any more if you don’t change this around.’ And now guess who’s addicted to professional products? “You can see and feel the difference instantly in your hair. At the end of the day, it’s not really more expensive, because the products are concentrated so you’re using less. “We are completely focused on getting consumers away from drug-store brands and using professional brands,” Soligo continues. “I know a lot of our distributors and manufacturers also sell non-professional products, and we understand that. But given that the beauty industry only manages about 8 per cent of the whole beauty [retail] market, there’s vast room for growth.” Similarly, Soligo contends there is ample room for environmental improvements within the industry as well. “M.A.C. cosmetics notwithstanding (where consumers who return six empty M.A.C. containers receive a free lipstick), I have not come across anything in my travels that compares to the magnitude of our MegaBuck program,” she says. “I think Lululemon Athletica offers a deduction from your purchase if you don’t take a plastic bag. But sadly, there’s not a ton of initiatives out there.” Soligo concedes that the left coast’s legendary ecofriendly vibe has impacted Megahair’s green outlook, adding, “We live in such a beautiful place, and I think that naturally got us thinking about recycling and the environment long before it became a popular issue. “I mean, we spend a lot of money and time with the pickups and delivery to make sure our program is done properly, but we’ve been doing this for 10 years and it’s something we really believe in. “And you know, even with the advent of at-home recycling pickup programs, we haven’t really seen a slowdown in the amount of containers coming into the salons. I guess people really like the program. “It’s just like in that Al Gore movie, An Inconvenient Truth. Our world has changed, and the issue of global warming has to come into focus. It is so important. It is our planet.” S
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C A N A D A ’ S L A R G E S T H A I R & A E S T H E T I C E X H I B I T I O N & E D U C AT I O N A L E V E N T
DISCOVER THE LATEST BEAUTY TRENDS AND MEET THE EXPERTS WHO CREATE THEM If it’s beautiful, if it’s modern, and if it’s beauty NEWS, you’ll find it on one of the stages at The 2008 Allied Beauty Association Beauty Shows. Each year more than 45,000 stylists, aestheticians and nail technicians head to Canada’s Largest Hair and Aesthetics Show for two informationpacked days that are guaranteed to deliver the latest beauty news and influences worldwide.
SPRING
2008
ALL YOUR PROFESSIONAL NEEDS UNDER
THE SAME ROOF HAIR, NAILS & AESTHETICS
SHOW PROGRAM
Keep your competitive edge in the constantly evolving beauty industry. Learn trend-setting techniques and ideas guaranteed to keep you at the forefront of international trends from some of the world’s best educators on these dates:
2008 SPRING BEAUTY SHOWS Montreal
Palais des Congrès
March 9 & 10
Toronto
Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building)
Vancouver
B. C. Place (NEW LOCATION)
April 13 & 14
Winnipeg
Winnipeg Convention Centre
April 27 & 28
Edmonton
Northlands
April 6 & 7
May 4 & 5
Give your clients the very best treatment. Attend the Allied Beauty Association Show in your province this spring so you can deliver trends and product information that will keep your clients on the cutting edge of fashion and keep you at the top of your game! Ask your distributor for details or call 1-800-268-6644 for more information or visit our website at www.abacanada.com
Design: Artisan Design,Windsor, Ontario Hair, make-up and photo styling: Heather Wenman Photographer:Wes Robitaille Photo Retouching: Paula Tizzard Model: Rhetta Dunn
INTERIORS
A Breath of Fresh Air WORLD SALON
P
art of being a business owner is the mundane task of paying utility expenses every month. The price of water, electricity and gas can take a bite out of business profits. But Brian Phillips, top stylist and owner of World Salon in Toronto, has been able to reduce power consumption by 50 per cent while increasing business by 35 per cent. “By doing something good for the planet, money that would pay the bills stays in my wallet.” Phillips says it’s been a win-win situation. t
PHOTOS IVAN OTIS
by Colette Wright
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INTERIORS
"
World Salon has reduced its consumption by 30 to 60 kilowatts per day
World Salon shows that a small business can improve its bottom line while contributing to a culture of conservation. Last June, Phillips received a Certificate of Recognition from Ontario’s Conservation Bureau. In 1998, Phillips contacted a non-profit environmental group called Greenest City to do an energy audit. Results showed the salon was using 150 to 175 kilowatts per day. “Two personal computers were always left on, along with nine 500-watt halogen bulbs. Factor in the usage of two 60-gallon electric water heaters and two unpredictable HVAC units and change was inevitable,” admits Phillips. Positive modifications over the last few years include the installation of a three-panel solar unit to heat the water. Phillips says, “World is the first and only salon in Canada to use solar thermal technology.” Another adjustment was changing all the bulbs to either low voltage or compact fluorescents. He realized only one computer was needed, and it was plugged into a power bar and turned off at night. To improve air quality in the summer, Phillips replaced his air conditioning units with two high-efficiency ductless ones using a programmable thermostat. “The goal was not to rely on air conditioning,” adds Phillips. Instead, he installed two French doors at the back of the salon. “On days when we didn’t need air conditioning, we’d open the doors at the back and front to get a cross-flow of air.” With all these changes, Phillips says World Salon has reduced its consumption by 30 to 60 kilowatts per day saving over $3,000 in utility bills. Walk into World Salon and the air is clean and fresh. Splashes of greenery all around confirm Phillips’s love of nature. Displayed on retail shelves is Phillips’ own creation of World Product. “The non-fragranced, chemical-free hair and skin care line is also recyclable, as we encourage clients to bring bottles in for refills.”
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Phillips says there are three simple ways a salon can be environmentally friendly and save money. First, replace lighting with compact fluorescent bulbs. Second, plug all electrical devices into a power bar and turn it off at night. And third, invest in a programmable thermostat. “We should always think of the carbon footprint we leave behind and change our behaviour to heal the environment rather than destroy it.” S Full Name of Salon: Address: Owner: Opened: Size: Number of Staff: Breakdown: Interior Designer: Furniture & Equipment: Retail Hair: Interior Designer: Furniture & Equipment: Retail Hair: Phone: Hours of Operation:
Web Site:
World Salon 132 Adelaide Street East, Toronto Brian Phillips October 1989 1,000 sq. ft. 4 6 cutting; 2 technical stations Portico Takara Belmont and Portico World Product, La Biosthetique Portico Takara Belmont and Portico World Product, La Biosthetique 416.594.1402 Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday and Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. www.worldsalon.ca
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USING 3ALON -AGAZINE to advertisers
by phone
on the web
A.I.I. China Glaze pg 37 .....................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com A.I.I. Gigi Wax pg 53 ..........................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com A.I.I. Seche pg 45 ..............................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.seche.com ABA 2008 pg 82 .................................................800-268-6644 ........................ www.abacanada.com
3UBSCRIBE
TO 3ALON -AGAZINE â?? YEAR SUBSCRIPTION ISSUES TO ANYWHERE IN #ANADA '34 ).#,5$%$ â?? 3AVE WITH COPIES OF EVERY ISSUE FOR YOU AND YOUR COLLEAGUES YEAR SUBSCRIPTION COPIES EACH OF ISSUES #!.!$)!. /2$%23 /.,9 -534 "% 4/ 3!-% ,/#!4)/. '34 ).#,5$%$
Artego Aurum Collection pg 94 ........................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca
â?? YEAR 5 3 SUBSCRIPTION ISSUES 53$
Aveda Smooth Infusion pg 4-5..........................800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com
â?? 0LEASE NOTE MY CHANGE OF ADDRESS AND OR DETAILS BELOW FOR MY 3ALON -AGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION
Bain De Terre Recovery Complex pg 15 ...........800-267-4676 Belmonda Beauty Academy pg 73 ....................866-647-4100 ........................ www.belmonda.com Calbrook Calgel pg 88.......................................866-5-CALGEL ...................... www.calbrookcanada.com Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 69 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com
SIGNATURE ?????????????????????????????? DATE ????????????????????????????????? 3)'. $!4% 4/ #/.&)2- 9/5 7!.4 4/ 2%#%)6% ! 35"3#2)04)/. 4/ 3!,/. -!'!:).%
3!,/. /7.%23 -534 #/-0,%4% 3%#4)/. "
Dream Catchers pg 30-31 ................................800-200-HAIR ....................... www.dreamcatchers.com
â?? ) VE ENCLOSED A CHEQUE PAYABLE TO 3ALON #OMMUNICATIONS )NC "ILL MY â?? 6)3! #ARD â?? !-%8 #ARD
Farouk Ooh la la pg 25 ......................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com
?????????????????????????????????????????????? #!2$ .5-"%2
Farouk Simply Chi-C pg 23 ...............................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com
?????????????????????????????????????????????? %80)29 $!4%
Dannyco Flat Irons pg 51 ..................................800-363-0707 ........................ www.dannyco.com
Framar Foil Assistant pg 92 .............................888-636-4548 ........................ www.foil-it.com Fusion Tools pg 71 ............................................800-487-8832 ........................ www.fusiontoolspro.com Global Best Beauty pg 95..................................866-468-2205 ........................ www.globalbestbeauty.com Great Lengths pg 47 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthshair.ca
?????????????????????????????????????????????? #!2$(/,$%2 3 .!-% â?? -R â?? -S 'IVEN .AME S ???????????????????????????????????? 3URNAME ???????????????????????????????????????
IBS Show New York 2008 pg 29 ........................800-328-0849 ........................ www.IBSnewyork.com
4ITLE ???????????????????????????????????????????
Intercosmetics pg 77 ........................................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca
"USINESS .AME ????????????????????????????????????
International Beauty Services pg 89.................800-642-3818
!DDRESS ???????????????????????????3UITE ?????????
ISO i.color pg 13 ................................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.com
#ITY #ITY ???????????????????? 0ROV ??? 0# ????????????? 0ROV
iTech Tourmaline pg 39.....................................888-424-7278 ........................ www.hairartproducts.com
0HONE ?????????????????????????????????????????
Joico Design Collection pg 100.........................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com
%MAIL ??????????????????????????????????????????
KQC ThermaCool pg 92 ................................................................................... www.kqcbeauty.com
7EBSITE ????????????????????????????????????????
LCN Camouflage pg 41 .....................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca
â?? 0LEASE EMAIL THE WEEKLY SALON NEWSLETTER FOR FREE â?? 0LEASE SEND ME PERIODIC OFFERS FROM RELATED COMPANIES
Matrix Academy pg 86 ......................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Biolage Fortetherapie pg 11..................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Megahair Family Zenkai Salons pg 88............................................................. www.zennkai.com NeoExtensions pg 93 ....................................................................................... www.neoextensions.net OPI India Collection pg 35.................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Premier Orlando 2006 pg 65.............................800-335-7469 ........................ www.premiereorlandoshow.biz Redken Education pg 2-3..................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon52 pg 42....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf Blondeme pg 6-7 ........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.blondme.com Schwarzkopf Club SKP pg 12 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf OSiS pg 15 ...................................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Senscience Liquid Luxury Collection pg 9........800-267-4676 ........................ www.senscience.com SST Signature Series pg 56 ..............................800-667-2566 ........................ www.sstsignatureseries.com Star Nail pg 75 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio NaturalĂŠ pg 63 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.cuccio.com Torlen Flip Top Brush pg 90-91 ........................888-438-9257 ........................ www.torlenprofessional.com Ultra Manicure pg 72 ........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com
3%#4)/. " (OW WOULD YOU CLASSIFY THIS LOCATION â?? 3ALON â?? 3PA â?? 3CHOOL â?? -ANUFACTURER â?? $ISTRIBUTOR â?? &RANCHISE â?? &REELANCE â?? (OME "ASED â?? /NE OF MULTIPLE LOCATIONS WITH THE SAME OWNER â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? OF %MPLOYEES ???? 7HAT SERVICES ARE PROVIDED â?? (AIR #ARE â?? 3KIN #ARE â?? .AIL #ARE â?? (AIR 2EMOVAL â?? 3PA 4REATMENTS â?? 4ANNING â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????????? 7HAT DO YOU DO â?? #O OWNER â?? /WNER â?? -ANAGER â?? (AIRSTYLIST â?? .AIL 4ECHNICIAN â?? %LECTROLOGIST â?? #OLOURIST â?? %STHETICIAN â?? ,ASER 4ECHNICIAN â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????????
Uvalux Australian Gold pg 79 ...........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com
&!8 &/2- 4/
Uvalux DesignerSkin pg 67 ...............................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux SPF pg 99 ..............................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com
-!), &/2- 4/ 3!,/. -!'!:).% 0/ "/8 "%%4/. /. , ' !
Yummy Skin pg 94.............................................877-448-3014 ........................ www.yummyskin.com
OR SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT WWW SALON CA
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events SHOWS
ABA mOntreAl
ABA tOrOntO
cOSmOPrOf itAly 2008
March 9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;10, 2008 Palais des Congres, Montreal Info: www.abacanada.com
April 6â&#x20AC;&#x201D;7, 2008, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, Toronto Info: www.abacanada.com
April 10â&#x20AC;&#x201D;14, 2008 Bologna, Italy Info: www.cosmoprof.it
Omc HAirWOrld, March 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;3, 2008
iBS PreSentS All ABOut BeAuty SHOW, March 16â&#x20AC;&#x201D;17, 2008
intercOiffure'S SPring SymPOSium, April 6â&#x20AC;&#x201D;7, 2008
internAtiOnAl cOngreSS Of eStHeticS And SPA, April 13â&#x20AC;&#x201D;14,
McCormick Place, Chicago, IL Info: www.omchairworld.com
Shaw Conference Centre, Edmonton Info: 800.642.3818
The Venetian, Las Vegas Info: www.intercoiffure.us
2008, Arlington Convention Center Dallas, TX Info: http://dallas.skincareshows.com
lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OréAl PrOfeSSiOnnel PreSentS unique, March 3, 2008
cAlgAry fASHiOn fOcuS
mAritime BeAuty PreSentS cArnivAl Of BeAuty
ABA vAncOuver
April 12â&#x20AC;&#x201D;14, 2008, Halifax World Trade & Convention Centre Info: www.maritimebeauty.com
April 13â&#x20AC;&#x201D;14, 2008 BC Place Stadium, Vancouver Info: www.abacanada.com
AmericAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BeAuty SHOW March 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;3, 2008 McCormick Place, Chicago, IL Info: www.americasbeautyshow.com
Vancouver Convention & Exhibition Centre, Vancouver Info: www.lorealprofessionnel.com
HAir AvedA educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 cHi educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 800.361.6607
March 30, 2008 Stampede Park Roundup Centre, Calgary Info: www.cosmoprobeauty.com
greAt lengtHS educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: www.greatlengths.net KmS educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 877.670.6767 lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OréAl PrOfeSSiOnnel educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 800.361.1861
glOBAl BeSt BeAuty educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988
mAtrix educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 888.422.6879
gOldWell educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 877.670.6767
redKen educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 866.9.REDKEN
ScHWArzKOPf educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor
nAil And eStHeticS
tigi educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 800.361.6607
cnd educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: contact your local CND distributor
urBAn BeAuty SyStemS educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327
AvedA educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892
lcn educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings
StAr nAil educAtiOnAl PrOgrAmS Info: 800.661.9997
For a full listing of educational programs go to salon52.ca.
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HOT PRODUCTS
hotpicks
by Morella Aguirre
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photo chris tsintziras
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Problem Solving Redken introduces Scalp Relief, a line of intensive scalp therapy products specifically formulated to combat pesky problems like dandruff, excess oil and sensitivity. Products are divided into three categories: Dandruff Control, Soothing Balance and Oil Detox. For more info go to www.redken.ca.
Straight UP An apple-scented balm for smoothing and soothing, Paul Mitchell’s Super Skinny Relaxing Balm conditions hair with a unique blend of moisturizing ingredients. Its humidity-resistant formula delivers frizz-free, sleek hair in all climates. For more info go to www.paulmitchell.com.
Shine booSter Silky Smooth Moisture Serum, a new addition to TIGI’s S Factor line, promises to soothe hair cuticle, protect against damage and restore hair. To be used on toweldried hair, this mild-hold serum contains power ingredients like sunflower seed oil, wheat protein, glycerin and panthenol. For more info go to www.tigihaircare.com.
on a roll Jump-start those curls with Goldwell Styling Curl Kick Curl Jelly. A liquid gel defining curls and providing natural shine, Curl Kick guarantees a flexible hold with no buildup. UV filters protect against environmental damage, helping to prevent dullness and frizz. For more info go to www.goldwellusa.com.
lite bright Available at Nail Depot, the new Lite Fusion 3000 soak-off gel system offers a flexible, non-yellowing formula that’s easy to use and ideal for enhancements and overlays. With its superior quality and affordable price point, the Lite Fusion 3000 brush on system is a must-try. For more info go to www.naildepot.ca.
DecaDent Drench Packed with nourishing vitamins, moisturizing oils and rejuvenating antioxidants, Yummy Skin’s Ultra Hydrating Body Lotion is available in six scent varieties. Its deeply hydrating formula will leave skin refreshed, smooth and drenched in moisture. For more info go to www.yummyskin.com. S
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SCOOP
Grand Prix Redkenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first-ever Grand Prix contest, in partnership with Toyota, invited stylists to participate by committing to sell at least one Redken styling product of each different end-result category: Hairspray, Curl/Wave, Straight/Smooth, Shine, Volume, Definition & Movement and Heat Styling. There were over 700 participants across the country and the coveted first prize, a Toyota Yaris, was presented to Chantal St-Hilaire of Charlesbourg, Quebec, last November. Go to www.redken.ca for more.
PEOPLE IN THE NEWS
#ALBROOK #ANADA s WWW CALBROOKCANADA COM !LBERTA s -ANITOBA s 4ORONTO $OWNTOWN '4! %AST /NTARIO s #ALGEL #ENTRAL /NTARIO s 7ESTERN /NTARIO s .IAGARA -ISSISSAUGA 3URROUNDING AREA /TTAWA s -ONTREAL 1UEBEC s !TLANTIC #ANADA
Competing with 78 hairdressers from 26 countries, Cindy Hudson, a stylist at THe Hair FaCTory in St. Johns, Newfoundland, won the Creative Colorist category at Goldwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2007 Trend Zoom Color Challenge finals in Berlin, Germany. As a result, she will join the three-stylist international creative team in designing the Trend Zoom 09 collection. Applications for the 2008 Trend Zoom Color Challenge can be found at www.goldwellusa. com. For more on Goldwell colour, including Cindy Hudson the new Colorance Blonde Toning Service, go to www.salon52.ca. ann MinCeyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;redken spokesperson, salon industry leader, educator, motivational speaker, philanthropist and authorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; received Intercoiffure America/Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inspiration Award on October 20 at the Waldorf Astoria in New York City. The Inspiration Award recognizes outstanding service to the professional beauty industry. Go www.salon52.ca for details. CHaTTers Canada LiMiTed has announced a new corporate structure. ken FisHer is stepping down as CEO but will remain active within the company as president, chairman and director. Jason VoLk, who has proudly served as the corporationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s COO for the past nine years, will take over at the helm as the new CEO and remain on the board as a director. For more, go to www.chatters.ca and www.salon52.ca. ann MinCey
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GiVinG CrediT In our January/February 2008 Contessa Collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s issue, only one makeup artist was credited for working on Rudy Pignatarosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winning Multicultural Hairstylist of the Year collection. Marissa Patawaran was also a contributing makeup artist, playing a key role in creating the winning looks. S
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P R E S S PA S S
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BSG FAShion FocuS ToRonTo Mega-distributor BSG hosted its Toronto Fashion Focus at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre last November. Highlights included an inspiring presentation by TV hair star Nick Arrojo, who discussed the importance of branding in the salon world. Other notable appearances included a demo-style presentation by Nicholas French and info-packed seminar by Star Nailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tony Cuccio. For more on this event, visit www.salon52.ca. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
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OffSPRing LOOkS tO thE futuRE The professional beauty industry’s first carbon-neutral event, Offspring, recently took place in Miami. A two-day show, Offspring was headlined by master stylists like Ray Civello, Antoinette Beenders, Tim Hartley and Vivienne Mackinder. These globally renowned artists were given the opportunity to introduce their hand-picked protégés to a crowd of over 1,000 attendees, offering an authoritative glimpse into the future of our industry by presenting the next generation of artistic leaders. For more on this event, visit www.salon52.ca.
Farouk Celebrates At the company’s semi-annual conference on January 10 and 11, Farouk Shami and president Shauky Gulamani announced the company’s official sponsorships for the year and presented the new product developments for 2008. The conference followed an awards ceremony that was attended by hundreds of distributors, where sales executives awarded 31 CHI Mustangs and 28 BioSilk Harley Davidson motorcycles as an incentive for increased sales domestically and internationally. Modern Beauty, Guay Beaute and Can-Rad won Harley’s and Can-Rad also won a Mustang. Woody Michleb, creative and artistic director, stole the show with his newest Ode to Couture collection, which favours soft movement and natural beauty. See more photos and details on www.salon52.ca
INTRODUCING...
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The winners of the 23rd British Hairdressing Awards were recently announced at an awards ceremony held at the Grosvenor House Hotel in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Park Lane. The nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big winner, crowned 2007 British Hairdresser of the Year, was Angelo Seminara of Trevor Sorbie Salon in Convent Garden, London. See salon52.ca for more coverage.
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IntercosmetIcs Grand openInG Intercosmetics, national distributor of esthetic and spa supplies and brands like CND and RVB, recently opened its new two-storey, 16,000-square-foot retail and educational facility at 1035 Stacey Court in Mississauga, Ontario. The grand opening celebration included demonstrations by RVB, Swiss Med, CND and Lash It. Mississaugaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mayor Hazel McCallion was also on hand for the locationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s official ribbon-cutting ceremony. For more on this event, visit www.salon52.ca or www.intercosmetics.ca.
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Toni & Guy Salon Show In celebration of nine years in business, Toni & Guy Bloor Street salon and sponsors like Metro Beauty Supply treated a full house of clients and friends to a sexy and sleek beauty and fashion show. The 15-model presentation featured hair inspired by TIGIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Instinctive Collection. For more on this event, visit www.salon52.ca.
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BEST Human Hair Extensions!
Sam Brocato tourS t.o. Twenty-three top stylists from across Ontario convened in Toronto’s Distillery District in the fall for a two-day educational seminar by master stylist Sam Brocato and his design team. Presented by Carpi Beauty Supplies, the event focused on the principles of hair design and Brocato’s latest collection. For more on this event, visit www.salon52.ca.
marc anthony Salon opening Celebrity stylist Marc Anthony celebrated his new downtown Toronto salon opening with a bang. Guests were treated to an indoor-outdoor fashion show that debuted his spring/summer 2008 collection together with designer Izzy Camilleri’s new spring line. The look was romantic yet edgy, with models sporting polished rock chic crops and longer, more voluminous waves. For more on this event, visit www.salon52.ca. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
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Marketplace Your guide to products and services for professional salons
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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 17 Issue 03 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
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our passion, your future Ginaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s College has been graduating top beauty professionals since 1979. We have a 98% job placement with Ministry of Training approved courses. Our courses will soon be recognized with the world prestigious â&#x20AC;&#x153;CIDESCO Certificationâ&#x20AC;?. ADVANCED ESTHETICS | SPA BEAUTY THERAPY | MEDICAL ESTHETICS | LASER SERVICES ELECTROLYSIS | WAXING | PROFESSIONAL MAKE UP DESIGN | MANICURE - PEDICURE NAIL ENHANCEMENTS (GELS & LIQUID & POWDER)
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www.salon52.ca JOBS 3 EVENTS 3 CONTESSAS + MORE march 08 < s a l o n
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LAST WORD
Man versus Machine
I
was four years old the first time my father took me to work with him. We drove for about 40 minutes to B. Steinberg Ltd., in East London. The family-owned company manufactured the latest in bridal wear and cocktail dresses. Britain was a very different place in 1948. Although the Second World War had ended in 1945, empty spaces caused by bomb damage still loomed between buildings. Petrol (gasoline) rationing didn’t end until 1950, so few cars were on the roads. People used bicycles or public transport. Despite the lack of traffic, cities and towns were black and grimy. Smoke poured from factory chimneys and from coal fires heating millions of homes; it mixed with fog and formed thick, sometimes deadly smog. TV was black-and-white, and there was only one channel. Women’s fashion shone like a bright light in the darkness. During the war, women donned practical, drab clothing to work in the armed forces and factories. Now, women had returned to their traditional female roles, and six long and difficult war years left them craving feminine clothing with glamour, style and oodles of material, to replace clothing rationing and fabric scraps. Enter Christian Dior in 1947, with the ultra-feminine, wasp-waisted, full-skirted or figure-hugging New Look. Evening versions of the New Look, for those who could afford them, were particularly extravagant, ornate and glamorous, with strapless boned tops and long, very full skirts. This was the kind of gown produced at my father’s factory. I remember 30 machinists sewing away at a cracking pace. And two full-time beaders hand sewed little beads and sequins onto luxurious fabric in a massive burst of colour. Believe it or not, the Queen, as in Elizabeth II, had a lot to do with the popularity of this kind of fashion. On November 20, 1947, the young and lovely Princess Elizabeth married her handsome prince in Westminster Abbey. Elizabeth wore an ivory silk dress created by English designer Norman Hartnell. It had a 13-foot train and an interwoven flower design embroidered with crystals and 10,000 seed pearls. The wedding was televised, and later many thousands of people watched
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the movie version at cinemas across the country. The wedding dress went on exhibit at St. James’s Palace before touring Britain’s major towns and cities. The young Elizabeth became a star, going on to shine in the 1950s as brightly as the likes of Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. I have fond memories of going with my dad in the early 1950s to buy wonderfully colourful fabrics for his business, like silk, organza, slipper satin and lace. I still have the magnifying glass he used to carefully examine the quality of the lace. This kind of experience helped me develop a critical eye for colour and texture that has served me well in my craft. One of the strongest impressions that remain with me from my father’s factory (besides the button-covering machine I loved to play with) was the pattern cutters—two women who worked at two huge tables. Using large scissors, they painstakingly cut out patterns from thick brown paper marked with tailor’s chalk. Precision was key. Sometimes they even sat on the tabletops to better position themselves for cutting. Nowadays computers and machines have taken over their artistry. How extremely fortunate we are that as hairdressers we don’t face this kind of “progress.” Haircutting has always been a one-on-one, personal experience. Even a mega-salon is a gathering place with a social aspect. We pass on positive energy to our clients while being artistic and creative. And hopefully, we also inspire the younger members of our profession. Clients look forward to their salon experience, so why not come to work with a smile? Relishing the possibility of a good chinwag and doing some great hair is a wonderful way to appreciate the fact that machinery can never replace us. S John Steinberg is the owner of Toronto’s John Steinberg & Associates. He’s currently celebrating 49 years in the beauty business and continues to be one of Canada’s premier style makers. Check out: www.johnsteinberghair.com. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a
Photo BARRIE WENtZELL
by John Steinberg
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INTRODUCING...