Salon Magazine, March 2009

l salon MAGAZINE

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

Meet THE New Boomer

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GL.SalonAd.Mar09.qxd:GLJuly06-final.qxd

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The Professional Choice Great Lengths® is recognized the world over for having the most comprehensive and complete educational programs the industry has to offer. The continuing success of the Original 3200 Thermal Method Program attests to the ongoing acceptance and growth of Great Lengths® services.

The Future is Now In 2009, Great Lengths® Canada will embark on its journey into the future by introducing the Cold Fusion® Ultrasonic Method, an advanced application technology that creates flat attachment bonds without heat. This method will be taught at a 2-Day Hands-On Training with courses to commence in Spring of 2009.

Also in 2009, Great Lengths® Canada will introduce the latest technology, the Multi-Strand Air Pressure Method which attaches multiple strands with the simple touch of a button. This provides unlimited opportunities in the salon for colour blending and style design. Educational opportunities for this new system will be available only to those who have successfully completed the 3200 Thermal Method or the Cold Fusion® Ultrasonic Method Programs.

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56

Chapeau Chic

MARCH.09 SPECIAL BOOMER SECTION 41

Three boomer women bust stereotypes and get a fresh, trendy look for spring

SILVER LINING

50

SKIN SOLUTIONS

52

A FALLING OUT

54

HANDS UP!

A colourist’s guide to going grey

Anti-aging for the entire face

s a l o n > march 09

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the business of beauty and style

Meet THE New Boomer

Golden Age

64

REWIND march 09 $5 www.salon52.ca

The trends for boomer men se.m.09.cover.3-0.indd 10

68

72

BRITMAN Akin Konizi, British Hairdresser of the Year, modernizes the classic styles of the 60s

BRAND VISION Wella re-launches Koleston Perfect and unveils its new identity

How to work with clients’ thinning hair

Five fixes for mature hands

MAGAZINE

Vivienne Mackinder revives hats from the

THE NEW BOOMER

48

16

FEATURES 56 CHAPEAU CHIC

l salon

78

COLOUR REINVENTION Matrix revamps SoColor

1/26/09 4:05:43 PM

Hair: Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Calgary and Toronto; Makeup: Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve, Maple, Ont.; Nails: Hiro Ogura; Model: Gillian Vanderburgh, B&M Models; Clothing: Hugo Boss; Accessories: 3 Wishes Jewelry; Photography: Michael Banasiak Technique: A soft, contemporary look was achieved by removing most of the density behind the ears and towards the middle of the back of the head, while making sure to maintain a strong shape. A slide cutting technique left the essential length on the layers, but removed unnecessary weight internally. For a complete technique rundown visit salon52.ca.

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32

SHELF LIFE Six earthy products your clients will love

REGULARS 20 EDITOR’S LETTER 22 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 25 HAIRLINES

Salon’s cover shoot p.25; Must-have products for your boomer clients p.26; The straight facts on aging hair p.26; Beauty industry’s TV takeover p.27; The latest in tools p.27; Joico Canada National Vero K-Pak Color Competition p.28; How to survive tough economic times p. 30; Shelf Life offers six new products p.32

34 60

TRENDS

74

CONTESSA GALLERY

PROFILE Jason Kearns chats about his latest projects

Edwin Johnston talks about his Contessa 20 Elite Master collection and his year as Canadian Hairstylist

81

INTERIORS The revamped Metro Beauty Supply brings ideas to life

18

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84 86 98

SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

EVENTS Coverage of Salon International and more

LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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I

n the same way that tweens and metrosexuals got their moment in the marketing limelight, the latest buzz-worthy demographic is the baby boomer. As with many of today’s trends, however, the notion of the baby boomer has been re-invented to encompass today’s realities and cultural inclinations. So just like that we say goodbye to the baby boomers and hello to the new boomers—or the zoomers, as media mogul Moses Znaimer calls them.

One of the defining aspects of the new boomer is his or her desire to look as good as he or she feels. This, of course, is where you come in. From offering your boomer client a fresh spring makeover (see how our panel of experts interpreted their favourite spring trends on page 41) to overseeing a transition from coloured locks to silver tendrils (page 48), this issue is designed to stir up ideas on how to boomify your salon and better cater to this lucrative market.

Flipping the coin and looking at the boomer not as a client but as a creative force, we feature the work of three influential stylists and find that out-of-thebox thinking isn’t just for the emerging generation. In Chapeau Chic (page 56), we see Vivienne Mackinder weave hair into a textile-like fibre to create headpieces inspired by the Golden Age. Next, we showcase British Hairdresser of the Year Akin Konizi’s winning Signature collection, a black-and-white series poised to influence its fair share of up-and-comers (page 68). Finally, Melissa Brazier takes a look at the career of Toronto-based stylist and creative director Jason Kearns in Master Class (page 60).

In addition to our focus on boomers, this month we’re launching a new department in Salon Magazine: Hairlines Business (page 30). Like the reasoning behind the introduction of the Salon Business Excellence Award at Contessa 20, we know this is a topic of huge importance to you, so each issue we’ll be discussing relevant issues around the business of beauty and style.

It’s also time to start planning for Earth Month, so check out some of the latest earthy products in Shelf Life (page 32).

Lastly, be sure to go to salon52.ca for exclusive online content, from more eco trends to additional boomer tips, throughout the month of March.

Thoughts? Email me at morella@beautynet.com.

Morella Aguirre Editor-in-Chief

Together. A passion for hair 20

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The Big Boom

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349,% )4 ,)+% )4 3 4HE (OT 3TYLER #OLLECTION FROM &IRST ,ADY ANSWERS ALL THE NEEDS OF TODAY S PROFESSIONAL HAIRSTYLIST OFFERING A SELECTION OF HIGH QUALITY TOOLS TO CURL STRAIGHTEN SMOOTH AND FLIP TO PERFECT ANY STYLE 7ITH A WIDE VARIETY OF PROFESSIONAL FLAT IRONS HAIRDRYERS AND STYLING ACCESSORIES (OT 3TYLER IS THE STYLIST S CHOICE

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 18 issue 03

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com GROUP ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com

Generation B

ou might find my talking about the boomer issue a little selfserving, considering I’m inching towards that age bracket. I’m thrilled that we’re discussing this age group, as I can personally vouch that the boomer market is massive. Think Madonna and Prince: do they epitomize the average 50-year-old?

Of course, it’s no secret that the 40-plus crowd spends plenty of money. Go to any restaurant, spa or gourmet food shop and you’ll see them filled with men and women of this age. While I was recently in NYC, I couldn’t help but notice the staggering number of mature women with money and buying power.

And they looked pretty good!

Here are a few facts: 1. Boomers are by definition born between 1947 and 1966, and are at present in their mid 40s to 60s. 2.The baby boom generation happens to be 30 per cent of the Canadian population. 3. The 50-plus population alone controls 55 per cent of Canada’s discretionary spending power. 4. Nine million Canadians are over 50 years of age and are spending about $35 billion annually.

But it’s not just about money. The average boomer behaves differently than a woman or man of the same age bracket 20 to 30 years ago. I honestly couldn’t have imagined my parents at age 55 zipping down a ski hill or going to yoga. How about going to see U2 or Coldplay? Today the average 60-yearold is more like a 50-year-old. Seventy hardly seems old anymore. Their zest for life is inspiring.

This is where our industry comes in. From my own personal polling, the 50-plus crowd are feeling great and in turn want to look great as well. I’d like to compare this age group to a beautiful silver necklace—it just needs a little polishing up from time to time to keep it sparkling. From colouring their hair and snappy haircuts to pedicures and massages, they’re lining up in droves to be loyal, dedicated clients.

However, the boomer also has discriminating taste and demands good service. Is your salon prepared? Most already have their share of boomer clientele coming into their salons. But paying a little closer attention as well as tweaking your services and general business practices will further attract this highly valued clientele.

This issue is chock-full of business building tips and ideas on how maximize this exact opportunity. Get your staff involved and brainstorm together to keep your business humming along.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

22

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COPY EDITOR

Fran Schechter SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford CONTRIBUTORS

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras PUBLISHER/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

ACCOUNTANT

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com CHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

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return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

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EVOLVE supports the United Nations World Food Programme to fight global hunger

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June 7 & 8, 2009

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photo: Vitale Pro

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HAIRLINES

backstage

SPOTLIGHT ON SET

Behind-the-scenes at Salon’s March 09 cover shoot

W

On set, Barbosa relied on Redken’s new Blown Away products for texture and movement; Ferri worked with copper and rust tones to add drama and light.

Check out all the behindthe-scenes action, including our hair and makeup team’s top tips and biggest boomer no-no’s, on salon52.ca.

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e wanted energy, sparkle and definitely a great smile. More importantly, we wanted to make a statement about the modern-day boomer: confident, sexy and looking for a fresh take on her sense of style. So began the story of our March 09 cover, shot at our photographer Michael Banasiak’s Toronto studio in early December 08.

First up was sourcing the right model. Luckily, our chosen subject, 43-year-old Gillian Vanderburgh from B&M Models, struck a chord immediately. Her confident cropped cut and genuine smile simply made her a natural choice for the project.

To work on Gillian’s hair, we enlisted the help of Robert Barbosa, mastermind behind Salon Escape, Calgary and Toronto. “With Gillian we wanted a soft, contemporary look that’s sophisticated but textured and fun at the same time,” explains Barbosa, who cut and coloured our model’s hair three days prior to shooting. “We also did what I call a kiss from the sun— light highlights throughout to break up the colour and add further texture.”

Contessa Award-winning makeup artist Sabrina Ferri of Maple, ON’s Salon Verve took the job of adding a luminous quality to our model’s skin and eyes. “The most important thing when

working with maturing skin is keeping it moist instead of dry and matte. For Gillian, I also created a more dramatic eye, but using colours that will not cast under-eye darkness, like copper and rust tones.”

Nails, which came care of Hiro Ogura, a recent graduate of the Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics in Toronto, were kept versatile in a clean oval shape and neutral shade.

On set, Banasiak captured Gillian’s sophisticated sun-kissed look almost immediately. After the first 12 frames, we were giddy with excitement, knowing that our vision for the March cover was coming to life.—MA

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HAIRLINES

news

Boomer’s market

The must-have products for your boomer clients

Did you know…

The facts about men's and women’s hair 1. Men’s hair is denser and grows faster than women’s hair.

2. It’s normal to lose 50 to 100 hairs each day, but up to 40 per cent of women in their 40s and up to 50 per cent of men in their 50s will experience visibly thinning hair.

3. Hair on a woman’s head grows from the scalp on an angle, allowing sebum to run off. But men’s hair grows straight from the scalp, which can cause oil

T

his month FIXMEN by Quantum introduces a new demi-permanent crème colour line called ColorFix formulated specifically for men who would like to say buh-bye to unwanted grey. Blending up to 75 per cent grey hair for natural looking coverage, the colours are all ash in tone and will not transform into unnatural brassy hues upon fading. The groundbreaking formula has VPC technology—consisting of vitamins, proteins and carbohydrates—that protects, strengthens and thickens hair.

ColorFix also minimizes damage to the hair with its no-lift, deposit-only, nonprogressive formula. Available in three shades (dark, medium and light) the colour will slowly fade with each shampoo. This line is great for no-fuss clients as it processes in up to 10 minutes, lasts for four to six weeks and doesn’t rub off on pillows, towels or shirt collars. Plus, the gentle ammonia-free formula not only smells great, but won’t irritate the scalp. A perfect solution for those boomer male clients who aren’t exactly embracing their salt ’n’ pepper streaks.—MB

blockages that lead to inhibited hair growth.

4. A study showed that men were

Want more boom?

Check out these boomerappropriate offerings

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Redken Mint Fix SweatResist Gel Info: redken.com

affected by bad hair days just as much, if not more so, than women. The impact of a bad hair day caused more men than women to have lower self-esteem and feel less capable.—MB

www • For more boomer products head to salon52.ca

Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Color Hold Texture Info: alternahaircare.com

Rene Furterer Myrrhea Anti-Frizz No Rinse Silkening Fluid: Info: renefurterer.com

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1/29/09 3:46:45 PM

HAIRLINES

tools

TV Takeover Beauty pros hit the tube

W Network’s hunt for a new beauty and style expert led them to Stouffville, ON’s Marc Galati.

The owner of Headlines Salon and Spa was among more than 50 entrants who competed for a spot as resident expert on the lifestyle network. “I submitted an online video, and the public voted for their favourite,” explains Galati. After making the top 20, Galati worked a five-minute on-camera challenge: office-to-evening hair. “I tried to show a bit of my personality and make it interesting by using makeup that most people have in their bag as a shimmer,” he says, adding he also spoke about his years of work as a Joico educator. Galati’s video was posted online and landed him the most votes. “It’s great exposure for myself and the salon I work at,” he says.—AM

PhoTo CoUrTeSy oF SLICe

what’s on?

1 Name Great Lengths Ultrasonic 5000 website greatlengths.net FEATURES: “Cold fusion” system melts keratin polymer without heat • No-heat system minimizes injury to extension artist • Seamless attachment from hair strand to Great Lengths extensions • Creates round and flat extension bonds

2 Name BaByliss Wet-To-Dry Flat Iron

chop shop

PhoTo CoUrTeSy oF STAr!

Follow the lives of owner Daniel Hudon and his team of stylists from Vancouver’s rock ’n’ roll salon Chop Shop, airing Wednesdays at 8 p.m. ET on Slice. Plus, check out our April 09 issue for a look at Chop Shop’s photo shoot for Salon Magazine. You also won’t want to miss the action-packed season finale scheduled for April 29.—MB

website dannyco.com FEATURES: Advanced Korean ceramic heats up fast and gives an even temperature along plates • 94 ventilating holes and unique channels to release steam • Nano-silver technology cleanses the hair while decreasing friction

3

blush: the search For the Next Great makeup artist Take nine competing makeup artists, one house, intense eliminations and fabulous prizes for the one left standing and you get the new series Blush, airing Saturdays at 9 p.m. ET on Star! The king or queen of makeup artistry will be revealed on the season finale scheduled for March 28.—MB

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Name Belvedere Plush Backwash website belvedere.com FEATURES: Perfectly angled reclined seat • Adjustable tilting cast-iron bowl • Four-inch wide armrests for maximum comfort • Customizable bowl and chair fabric colours

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HAIRLINES

news

Joico Canada National Vero K-Pak Colour Winners & Finalists Stylist category Jacob Rozenberg, The Lounge Studio, Vancouver Finalists William Silvangrath, Golden Razor, Windsor, ON Edyta Mazurek, Enya Hair, London, ON Michael Riley Phillips, Shear Talent, Charlottetown, PEI

Student category Janie Auger, Coiffure La Nuque, Montreal Finalists Katherine Chavez, Dyson Bruce Salon, Markham, ON Lisa Ellsworth, Woman-My Salon and Spa, Brampton, ON Amber Purdy, Once and Again, Bobcaygeon, ON Trista Lea Hegmans, Elaine’s Hair Design, Brantford, ON

Colour Chameleon

Joico announces Vero K-Pak Color Competition winners

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hair JaCob rozeNberg Phto DeViN KarriNgteN

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wo young stylists from opposite ends of the country were the top winners in Joico’s annual Vero K-Pak Color Competition that took place in November. Five finalists from different parts of Canada were announced in both the student and stylist categories. Jacob Rozenberg, a 20-year-old from The Lounge Studio in Vancouver, won the stylist category (winning photo shown here), while 24-year-old Janie Auger from Coiffure La Nuque in Montreal won student.

Rozenberg, who has competed since he was an apprentice in Grade 11, developed his winning look thanks to a particular model with great bone structure and not-so-great hair. “I’m very inspired by Sassoon and classic shapes, so it was about giving her a really strong, classic wedge look,” he explains. “Plus, green was huge when I did this shoot at the beginning of 2008.”

At The Lounge Studio since his apprenticing days, Rozenberg’s work has already earned him a steady roster of clients.

Auger, on the other hand, entered the Vero K-Pak competition to help build a clientele. “I wanted to challenge myself and leave my comfort zone,” she explains. “It took me a long time, about a month, to find a way to create the oily, dirty-effect colours for my winning look. Colour is what brought me to hairstyling; it’s chemistry!” To see Auger’s winning photo, go to salon52.ca—AM

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The NEEDS of mature hair, 100% COVERED. IGORA Royal Absolutes & BC Time Restore.

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7/1/09 12:38:29 3:56:43 PM 1/27/09 PM

HAIRLINES

business

Staying Afloat

l

ike every story, there are two sides to the way the recent economic crisis has affected the salon industry. Vasile Tsinokas, co-owner of Valentino’s Grande Salon in Whitby, ON, sees his trade providing a confidence boost during perilous times. “People will always get their hair done,” he says. “It makes you feel good and it’s very inexpensive compared to a car or furniture.” On the other hand, Joe Muro, national business development manager for Logix, says that if it comes down to a salon service or essentials like food and shelter, the latter obviously win out.

Whether optimistic or more cautious, most business owners are no doubt feeling the impact of the cash down-flow. “Clients are calling before their appointments and delaying them by two or three weeks,” says Rocco Campanaro, owner of Axcess Salon & Spa in Toronto. “When you calculate that through an entire year, that can be one or two less visits per year.”

Tsinokas, whose salon recently won the very first Contessa Award recognizing business excellence, isn’t blindly optimistic either. “We’ve weathered recessions before,” he explains. “We keep our environment positive and don’t let on if we’re in distress. We’ve found it’s the worst thing you can do for clients and staff morale.”

Muro says that during this slow period—which he correlates directly to a dip in retail sales—salons should use the extra time to educate their staff. “Retail pays rent because it doesn’t go on sick leave or vacation, but the problem is that hairstylists are not salespeople,” he explains. “If stylists get educated, they can feel a lot more comfortable with what they are proposing to the client.” He also adds that Logix is recognizing the spending shortage and coming up with promotions that benefit customers, along with new products, which, he adds, consumers will always be curious about.

Tsinokas and Campanaro also have their strategies. In the case of the former, a great community reputation and gift-with-purchase promotions should help retain customers. Campanaro also wants to focus on cherishing his existing clients, through implementing a new incentive program, rather than spending resources attracting new ones. Both, however, say that excellent and consistent customer service is still the key to keep clients coming back.

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jupiterimages

Is the shampoo bottle half full or half empty during these tough economic times? By Anupa Mistry

We found five easy ways for salon owners to minimize damage and maximize resources during an economic slowdown.

1. Get educated Update staff on their product knowledge. If they don’t know a product’s benefit, they will not be able to communicate its point of difference.

2.

Boost service Grab a coffee or help a client with her jacket. Little gestures can make a difference in client retention.

3.

Waste not, want not From not overusing product to turning off the lights when you leave the storage room, keep all aspects of your business running as efficiently as possible.

4. Cherish clients Set up an incentive or rewards program for your top clients.

5.

Promote products Most salon owners don’t advise discounting services. Work with your distributor to come up with retail promos instead.

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1/27/09 3:24:38 PM

Feed YOUR

HEAD

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Marrakesh Oil provides deep-moisturizing shine and conditioning to your hair, and protects while you heat-style or straighten.

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and Argan Oil, known for a thousand years

leaving no greasy residue. Marrakesh Oil

for its incredibly rich benefits for hair and

softens unruly hair while offering protection from the elements.

skin to create one of the most unique hair-care elixirs on the market today.

For more information about Earthly Body products and to find a distributor near you, please call 1.800.268.2242 or visit us at www.firstladyproducts.com.

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HAIRLINES

Six earthy products your clients will love

shelf life

au naturel When it comes to clients’ skincare, avoiding harmful chemicals is key.

The solution? Aveda has launched a four-step skincare regimen, plus a twice-weekly masque, made of yummy natural ingredients like mulberry root and grape extracts.

Info: aveda.com

2

4

1

the essentials SKP has launched a new organic line called Essensity. With the purest of organic ingredients, these colour, care and styling products will have your clients looking great and feeling healthy.

Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca

5 fully certified La Biosthetique has released innovative organic products that are 100 per cent approved by Ecocert (the official word on ecological products).

Whether it’s cleansing or strengthening, this new line has it all. Info: labiosthetique.com

3

crushing hard Crush Minerals’ full cosmetic line is made of 100 per cent finely ground minerals and is paraben- and talc-free.

Featuring products that work for lips, eyes, brows and even nails, this complete organic line will have clients glowing from head to toe. Info: crushminerals.com

5

2

3

very vegan Get pretty polished nails sans the DBP, toluene and formaldehyde.

SpaRitual has released a spring collection of their vegan polishes, titled Cherish, with six new shades that will have clients tickled pink, orange and gold.

Info: sparitual.com

6

6

be aware With clients becoming more concerned about the state of the world, you can raise awareness with CHI’s Earth Day collection, which consists of three irons each with an environment-inspired print.

Info: chiprofessional.com S

Photo Chris tsintziras text Melissa Brazier

1

4

www • For more of the latest products head to salon52.ca

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All NEW From Torlen Professional. . .

Contact a Distributor Near You British Columbia: KPSS Canada, LTD Newfoundland: Professional Beauty Supplies Quebec: Star Bedard Ontario: KPSS Canada, LTD

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Torlen Professional Aluminum Coloring Foil

TOR 171 Ionic Dryer Flexi Plate Flat Iron 1.25â&#x20AC;? Wide Plate

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Now available with a diffuser!

Six Pack Flat Iron Minis

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Collection: Vision Collection, Farouk Systems Group Hair: Patrick Kalle and team Makeup: Lydia Thann Wardrobe: Marco Marcus Photos: Ivo Rikkert

t

FRINGE FORWARD

TRENDS march 09

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OPI SPRING/SUMMER 2009 COLOR CHART

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush

Edition C (OPI ITEM NO. DC S03)

Edition A (OPI ITEM NO. DC S01)

Edition COF (OPI ITEM NO. DC S08)

NAIL LACQUERS SHOWN, TOP TO BOTOM: Overexposed in South Beach, Miami Beet, Done Out in Deco, Suzi & the Lifeguard, Party in My Cabana, Feelin’ Hot-Hot-Hot! Paint My Moji-toes Red, OPI on Collins Ave., Conga-Line Coral, Sand in My Suit, Clubbing til Sunrise, Bronzed to Perfection

If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

NATIONAL RELEASE DATE: FEBRUARY 4, 2009 Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com ©2009 OPI Products Inc.

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MAG. NAME:

SALON MAG-CANADA

OPI# 9-0089

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Hair: Paul Wilson, American Crew Photos: David Raccuglia

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DAPPER CLASSIC

TRENDS march 09

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BOLD BETTY

TRENDS march 09

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Collection: Satellite Hair: Tracey Devine, Angels, Aberdeen, UK Makeup: Aleesa Hall for MAC Wardrobe: Renwick Blue Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

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1/27/09 3:27:38 PM

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1/27/09 8:30:43 PM

The New Boomer Not likely to settle for the same old, same old, three stylish women kick the stereotypes to the curb and sign up for sophisticated spring makeovers

By Morella Aguirre

trends put forth by manufacturers? Are these looks relevant and applicable to your average salon client who’s craving a spring lift?

We asked three stylists to select a spring 09 manufacturer trend and adapt it to a fashionable new boomer with real-world demands and challenges.

The result was a refreshing exercise in myth-busting… t

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hen it’s time for a fresh start, most women will head straight to their hairstylist. But where do you, the mastermind behind makeovers, get your inspiration? Yes, celebs can be a good starting point, but their styles can often feel exhaustingly monochromatic. Same with the do’s worn by the slim stars of the fashion runways. So what about the hair

Makeup: Jennifer Santoro, Nails: Jennifer Sparks, Clothing: Gap, Photos: Naomi Hiltz

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The Client: Christina Nikolaidis, 44 Makeover Master: Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, inspired by Schwarzkopf Essential Looks Spring 2009 Collection; Glamazon trend Myth: After a certain age, you need to lose the length Reality: If long hair suits your client, give her tools to work it

and Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist Paul Pereira when agreeing to this makeover. So, in perusing the new Essential Looks images for spring 2009, finding a style suited to Nikolaidis was easy: the long, layered and two-tone brunette style from EL’s Glamazon trend.

“We did a nice reddish-brown—lighter on top,” explains Pereira. “Then we sectioned out some darker pieces on the bottom to add some depth underneath.” To offset the natural loss of density that comes as hair ages, Pereira also worked in a few clip-ins, giving Nikolaidis a healthy shot of volume and shine.

As for the wiry strands and lengthy styling time, Pereira recommends that Nikolaidis upgrade her tools to faster and more efficient models. Also, he suggests adding an eighth product to Nikolaidis’s arsenal: an intense moisture masque. Finally, Pereira believes that Nikolaidis is ready to become a five-week colour client, not a six-week one as she’s been so far.

“Challenges with colour maintenance keep us in business,” he laughs, “which is great.”

Long & Lean

▼

f

or Christina Nikolaidis, hair care became a whole new ball game after hitting 40. “That’s when the white hair kicked in,” says the natural level four brunette. “Now colour maintenance is a definite challenge.”

With her porous curly hair, another predicament for Nikolaidis is frizz, a problem growing worse as more hair starts losing its lustre and pigment.

Finally, there’s the issue of time. This busy 44-year-old mother and full-time parole officer prefers smoothing out her waves, which takes 20 minutes out of her already packed schedule.

Still, Nikolaidis doesn’t want to go short. And although her shoulderlength hair is an investment, it’s a look she wears well, especially given her tall and slender frame. “I use special products as much as I can: anti-frizz spray, straightening serum, colour protecting shampoo and conditioner, spray-on gels. I straighten it with a blowdryer, then I flatiron.” Her shopping list totals seven products especially for her long locks.

In fact, keeping the length was the only restriction Nikolaidis gave to stylist

INSPIRATION: Schwarzkopf Essential Looks

>

Want to learn more?

Check out Paul Pereira’s top tips for styling boomers on salon52.ca.

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The Client: Anne Marie Turnbull, 50 Makeover Master: Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel, inspired by L’Oréal Professionnel spring 2009 Precious Garden collection Myth: If you let them go grey, you’ll lose business Reality: With a little creativity, you can always lure a client back to the colour bar

Colour Therapy days after the shoot. “People are coming up to me saying how fun and cool my hair looks.”

Valuing easy integration into her lifestyle and a simple sense of laid-back luxury, Turnbull wanted a hair care routine that’s quick and time-efficient. “I have to use a bluish shampoo on it periodically just to keep it white. Other than that, with Donna’s cuts I don’t really have any challenges. It’s easy to take care of— quick to blow dry,” says Turnbull, adding that she uses only two styling aids, one before blow-drying and one to texturize and separate when styling.

Since Turnbull hadn’t received a colour service since she transitioned into her current 100 per cent silver and white tone, her makeover proves that with a little imagination a stylist can bring a no-foil client back to the colour bar. Suggesting pink was a clever and daring move on Dolphy’s part. However, it also took Turnbull’s confidence and sense of self to carry the statement. ▼

f

ifty-year-old Anne Marie Turnbull commands attention. At 5 feet 10 inches, this blue-eyed, silverhaired professional consultant exudes confidence and grace. And now, after her spring 2009 makeover inspired by L’Oréal Professionnel’s Precious Garden collection, Turnbull also radiates a hearty dose of the cool factor.

“If she didn’t want to keep it, we couldn’t do it,” says Donna Dolphy, senior stylist at Salon Daniel and L’Oréal Professionnel platform artist, of the blush pink highlights she applied to Turnbull’s cropped and textured cut. “But it looks great on her. They won’t be able to take their eyes off her at her board meeting this afternoon.”

Although Dolphy had to do a little convincing at first (the notion of “going pink” does seem a bit scary hours before a major board meeting), Turnbull quickly fell for the playful rosé pigment after receiving a steady stream of positive feedback from friends and colleagues.

“Everyone loves it,” she comments a few

< INSPIRATION: L’Oréal Professionnel Precious Garden Watch what Ontario Hairstylist of the Year Donna Dolphy has to say about her gutsy colour combo on salon52.ca.

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Ayme is wearing Revere.

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1/27/09 12:41:02 PM 1/20/09 6:12:30 PM

The Client: Luci Feldman, 61 Makeover Master: Kevyn Martell, Salon Circus, inspired by Joico Minimum Maximum spring 2009 trends Myth: Classic equals boring Reality: Cool colour placement brings classic into the now

t

here’s a reason why every woman owns a little black dress. Sexy but appropriate for almost all occasions in its universally flattering shade, the LBD never fails to deliver.

In the world of hairstyling, the equivalent to the little black dress is the classic bob. Adaptable to almost all face shapes and hair types, the bob is a mainstay at most salons, including Toronto’s Salon Circus, home to Joico platform artist Kevyn Martell.

Choosing to adapt a hot red geometric bob from Joico’s spring 2009 Minimum Maximum collection for 61-year-old Luci Feldman, Martell’s main challenge became not only creating a shape appropriate for Feldman’s features, but also working the fashion-forward elements of Joico’s new collection into an age-appropriate style.

Feeling most comfortable with a little length around her lower jaw and citing colour maintenance as her peskiest hair issue, Feldman requested a chin-length cut and a colour treatment that would last longer than just two weeks. “To extend the life of her colour, we went light near

the part line,” explains Martell, “But since she needs depth around her face in order to bring out her features, we went four shades darker around the edge. This way, she’s getting both: lightness on the top and depth around the face. In terms of cut, we went higher in the back to give it a modern look.”

Martell’s colour placement technique also helps to reinvent Feldman’s classic style. Although subtle, the flow from dark chocolate to light caramel hues is obvious enough to give a soft and feminine edge to this timeless shape.

“The mature model is very happy,” jokes Feldman of her day of pampering at Salon Circus. Aware of the changes in her hair’s texture and density, she has one remaining question about home care. “Well, if you’re a Joico person, you would use the Re:nu Age Defy System,” says Martell with a chuckle. Taking the time to go through the line’s targeted response to chronologically aging hair, Martell finishes off with a simple summary statement: “It’s a hair care brand that helps replace what you lose as you age.” S

Clean Cut

INSPIRATION: Joico Minimum Maximum

>

>

What works on a boomer and what doesn’t? Watch Kevyn Martell’s boomer tactics on salon52.ca.

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The New Boomer Colour

oung starlets have long been setting hair trends with their chameleon-like colour changes, but there’s a new type of fox taking centre stage in Tinseltown these days. Silver foxes Helen Mirren, Jamie Lee Curtis and Meryl Streep, among others, are stepping out au naturel—in their natural silver manes, that is—and making women all over the world wonder if they should too.

“Clients are definitely thinking about it,” says Dana Lyseng of Supernova Salon in Vancouver. “I get asked often what the process would be and if it would suit them. It will definitely be a trend in the next five to 10 years.” Considering women over the age of 55 represent one-third of the Canadian population and 60 per cent of salon visits, it’s a trend worth exploring.

The first step is always a good consultation. “Usually the client will bring up the conversation long before she actually makes a decision,” says Lyseng. “It’s a good time to let her know that this process might be long, and it could be a gradual transition over the course of a year.”

Then, take into account the client’s features, complexion and natural base colour to determine with her whether or not it’s a wise decision.

“Traditionally, women with natural dark hair look best with silver hair,” explains Terry Ritcey, director of education, Redken Canada.

“Those with light blonde hair or soft coppers tend to veer more toward the yellowy side.”

For best results, Ritcey recommends slowly transitioning from a permanent colour to a demi-permanent and gradually low-lighting the hair toward the natural grey or white. “You have to ease the demarcation lines as much as possible,” he says. “Start leaving some hair out around the hairline to keep a little of the white exposed.”

Contessa Makeover Colourist of the Year Lenny Ferri also suggests “sunkissing the hair.” Highlighting sparse areas around the hairline eases the demarcation. He likes to use men’s colour, like L’Oréal

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A colourist’s guide to going grey

By Tina Christopoulos

Homme, to achieve the salt-and-pepper look. “It’s not a full coverage colour,” he says. “I put it in my foils, like a colour, when I highlight the hair, and it gives a softness around the hairline.”

“When you stop colouring, you also forgo the moisturizing agents contained in colour, so naturally the hair becomes more coarse and unruly.”

Whatever your technique, a client embracing her grey hair will need a phenomenal cut to allow the silver to become the accent of the style, according to Lyseng. “Very Sassoon, edgy and very geometric,” she explains. After all, isn’t symmetry a sign of facial beauty?

A new shape and shorter cut will also offset the difference in hair texture and volume. “When you stop colouring, you also forgo the moisturizing agents contained in colour, so naturally the hair becomes more coarse and unruly,” explains Ferri. “Although your clients are now saving on colour, they will have to invest in their natural hair. It’s the perfect opportunity to develop your retail opportunities.”

From moisturizing and volumizing products to tools and smoothing serums, this new colourless market will need at-home maintenance products. It also opens the door to in-salon texture services.

Ritcey recommends creating a menu for your salon that will answer to your client’s new set of hair care needs. “It provides an opportunity to be more creative,” he says. “Identify services that speak to that market, like restructuring lotions and volumizing treatments and create a silver menu for your salon.” S

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SILVER LINING

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The New Boomer Esthetics

Skin Solutions

Seven tricks for your anti-aging arsenal

By Tina Christopoulos

According to makeup artist Gerald Bélanger, from Belfor Beauté in Montreal, a wellmanicured brow is an instant face-lift. Avoid making brows too thin—they age.

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Softer shadows are more flattering. Add a shimmery finish in the inner corners of the eyes.

4

Apply liner after lip-gloss or lipstick—it will blend in better.

Avoid dark liners and lipsticks with blue undertones—they harshen the face.

Uneven skin tone adds 10 to 12 years to a woman’s perceived age. Dermalogica’s Holly Sherrard says pigmentation issues are more likely among darker Asian, African and Indian complexions since “the melanin is deposited in bigger chunks and it’s harder to break down.” Although sun protection is always best, treat pigmentation with a series of appointments, like a six-week program of intensive exfoliation, and home care products such as Dermalogica’s new ChromaWhite TRx multi-step targeted system. Algae extracts control pigmentproducing cellular messenger systems, while SPF 30 protects skin from environmental assaults.

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Emphasizing the upper part of the eye will help to visually lift it. Apply liner to the interior of the upper lid with a black pencil and always curl lashes before applying mascara, advises Bélanger.

Keep foundation and concealer light, says Bélanger. Don’t apply too much powder since it can accentuate wrinkles.

According to Repêchage’s Amanda Tropila, aging thins under-eye skin (increasing the visibility of blood vessels beneath the surface) while fluid retention causes blood vessels to become engorged and dilated. Treat with Repêchage’s Opti-firm eye contour treatment, a four-step à la carte service or facial upgrade. The system combines massage therapy and natural extracts of ginkgo biloba, gotu kola and aosa seaweeds to firm, while targeted peptides work to reduce puffiness. S

JUPITERIMAGES

1

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Awaken

Adore

Cherish

Harmony

Admire

Devotion

Passion

Magical

Poetic

Delight

Emotion

Joy

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The New Boomer Anti-aging

A Falling Out enetic or stress-related, thinning hair is a concern that affects many people as they age. “The aging process causes hormonal changes. The scalp ages as well, which influences how the hair grows and is produced by the body,” explains Linda Norris, a Nioxin International corporate trainer. “It’s just like how the body produces skin. When cellular activity slows down, your body doesn’t produce as good hair.”

Thinning can come in different forms, from finer strands to a different texture that comes with greying and a significant decrease in the body and fullness of hair. A myriad of products are marketed to consumers to deal with hair loss woes, but solutions can also come in the form of product and service offerings that stylists propose in-salon.

“The hair follicle is a viable organ that works in the same way as our gums care for our teeth. But as our bodies work to stay healthy as we age, hair becomes less vital and gets less nourishment,” says Norris. Nioxin—a line designed to give back sustenance and allow oxygen flow to the hair and scalp—offers a variety of nutrient-rich products, from shampoos and conditioners to stylers that, as Norris adds, can help thinning hair.

Treating the health of the scalp, as opposed to targeting the new dry, fine texture of hair, will prevent hair loss. Norris also recommends that boomer clients might benefit from a Scalp Renew treatment four to six times per year, which fights aging and aids in collagen production.

Although a regular scalp care regime will help revitalize hair, it won’t have the full Rogaine effect. Once clients begin to care for their scalp as they

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do their face, stylists can offer camouflaging tips. Anne Martins, owner and stylist at Unique Touch in Toronto, says that hair extensions are the best way to put fullness back into the hair.

“Remind clients that extensions do come in different lengths,” she explains of the tendency for older women to relegate hairpieces to the Britney Spears set. “Whether it’s short, shoulder-length or long, you can create whatever style you want.”

Martins, who works with Great Lengths human hair extensions, says that human hair tends to suit aging hair best. “One hundred per cent human hair is natural-looking and has a keratin bond that is very light and doesn’t put weight or stress on the client’s own hair,” she says. “But bonds will be used differently, and if someone has very fine hair, you have to use a thinner bond that gives volume but remains hidden.”

Synthetic hair might be a cheaper alternative, especially during dreary economic times, but be wary of offering this service to mature clients.

“Not only does the client have to be very careful in maintaining a synthetic hairpiece, but since the bonds are not pure keratin, they can cause breakage,” Martins explains.

And if she’s still panicked about her thinning hair but can’t commit to a new head of hair, suggest adding highlights or lowlights with extensions instead. “You can change a whole look without going through the whole process,” says Martins. “The bonus is that your client who is concerned about her thinning hair doesn’t have to worry about chemically treating it with colour either.” S

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What to do when your boomer client decides that thin just isn’t in anymore By Anupa Mistry

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Hands up!

The New Boomer Nails

Five fixes for mature hands

By Anupa Mistry with files from Elevate magazine

Your boomer client might not look a day over 40 thanks to her strict Dermalogica regimen, but aging hits hands as well. From ridged nails to sun damage, digits tend to lose their vitality over time.

The good news, however, is that anti-aging for the hands isn’t just limited to a good moisturizer.

Seal

Heat treatments are ultra-luxe.

Thermasoft heated mittens produce safe heat with no need for electricity—a perfect add-on while a client is in the chair. The mitts contain soyaffin, which is 100 per cent natural and bonds to the skin to block air, repel water and seal the dermal layer, keeping skin moist.

Nourish

Condition and smooth hands with the Vitamin-Enriched Manicure Revitalizer, part of Essie’s new Naturally Clean botanical line. Drop a vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acidinfused tablet into a bowl of warm water and soak for five minutes to reveal younger-looking hands.

Exfoliate

Regularly scrubbing up with a hand exfoliator such as CND Almond Moisture Scrub helps remove dead skin cells. And since age spots on the hands due to sun overexposure are sometimes inevitable, why not treat fingers like the face? Chemical peels remove the damaged upper dermis, revealing newerlooking skin beneath.

Smooth

Ridged, brittle nails are another telltale sign of aging. Essie Fill the Gap! Ridge Smoothing Base Coat is a discreet and thoughtful addition to a boomer manicure.

Natural mica and fine silky particles fill in ridges, while yucca extract helps to moisturize the nail.

Renew

Increased skin transparency—and, therefore, more visible veins—is a result of the breakdown of collagen and elastin. Unsightly veins in the hands can be beat through a procedure called endovenous laser ablation, which uses thermal energy to seal off the vein. S

For more tips to service your boomer clientele, check out Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

Go to elevatemagazine.com

TRENDS: Get ready for summer with OPI’s Miami-heat inspired shades

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Sand in my Suit

Done out in Deco

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Chapeau chic Iconic stylist Vivienne Mackinder revives hats from the Golden Age

By Anupa Mistry

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since hair as a fabric does have its limitations,” she says, recounting how each hairpiece took multiple days to create.

“However, when you defy those limitations, it takes you to another level.”

In order to elevate her collection, Mackinder also worked closely with fashion stylists who sourced pieces from celebrated designers such as Alexander McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana. “It’s very important to understand the sensibility and scale and proportion of both the hair and the wardrobe,” explains Mackinder. “As hairstylists we can be guilty of only looking at the head, but fashion stylists take in the whole look.” t

h

ats are the ultimate bad-hair-day accessories. However, in her latest collection, the Golden Age, Vivienne Mackinder successfully flips that theory upside-down. Inspired by a love for history, Mackinder crafted three elaborate headpieces using her favourite fibre: hair.

“I’ve never done anything like it before. I had no idea what I was doing,” she explains, “but I’m a real history buff and wanted to do extraordinary textures from a time when hats were really celebrated.”

Of creating the collection, Mackinder notes that no part of the process came easy. “Unusual textures are always a challenge

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Collection: The Golden Age Hair: Vivienne Mackinder for HairDesignerTV.com Makeup: David Maderich Wardrobe: David Widjaja Photos: Roberto Ligresti S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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PROFILE

Designer: David Dixon

Designer: Evan Biddell

Collection: White Cashmere Collection 2008 Hair: Jason Kearns Photos: Richard Dubois 60

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Designer: Arthur Mendonรงa

Designer: Lucian Matis

Master Class t

Jason Kearns, seasoned hairstylist and creative director, discusses his work on the latest Cashmere campaign By Melissa Brazier

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PROFILE

J

ason Kearns is more than a stylist; he is an experienced artist. Approaching his Toronto-based salon, Kearns-Davidson Hair & Skin Care, where large posters of his collection Buns are displayed in the front windows, you start appreciating his sense of creative direction. The salon’s interior is quite simple, and sizable-framed photos from his collections Dancer and Opulence line the walls.

There is a certain proud confidence in the way his creative work dominates the space.

Kearns has been in the industry for over 25 years, not only working as a top stylist, but also creating fashionforward photography. He recently took on the role of creative director for the PR campaign of the fifth annual White Cashmere Collection 2008: A Touch of Pink (shown here). Eight prominent Canadian designers were armed with 12-f00t sheets of Cashmere’s white and limited-edition pink toilet paper, their mission to create couture gowns.

Twenty-five cents of each purchased package of pink paper is donated to the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation.

It’s a cause that is close to Kearns’s heart; his own mother fought breast cancer for a few years. Surviving a mastectomy, she is now cancer-free and living in Paris.

Kearns’s response when asked to take on this project was very much in keeping with his give-it-to-you-straight attitude, “I said, ‘Yes, as long as I don’t get any interference.

Let me do it and that’s fine.’” Kearns laughs and admits, “I know what I want and I’m not interested in what I don’t want.

When I’m on-set I am fussy. I am picky.”

Designer: Thien Le

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Inspired by the sketches from the designers, “I saw the pink, I saw the white, and I thought candy floss hair,” Kearns says. “I just wanted something whimsical.” There’s a lot of texture in these photos, and Kearns says of this hair trend, “If you’re looking at texture within haircuts, there’s been texture for the past 20 years.

However, it’s only now becoming more acceptable for people to be a little bit more messy with their hair.”

The Cashmere campaign was not the only time Kearns has been creative director. He worked for La Coupe twice in his career, so it doesn’t come as a surprise that founder Charles Booth approached him to be the creative director for La Coupe’s latest hairspray campaign. Kearns titled the collection The Urban Gypsy and says, “I’ve always loved the word ‘gypsy.’ To me the model just looks like an urban gypsy, frivolous and not contrived. She’s just loose.”

As far as future projects go, Cashmere must have enjoyed working with Kearns, because he has been asked to do their 2009 campaign as well. For more info on Kearns and to see the La Coupe collection, check out salon52.ca. S

Designer: Comrags

Designer: Joeffer Caoc

Designer: Ula Zukowska

The company quickly agreed and creative sessions began eight months before the actual shoot, ideal for someone like Kearns who prefers to work with lots of prep time. “I very rarely go in the studio and let it happen. It never works. I’m always prepared way beforehand as it eases the time in the studio and the unknown,” he explains. About pairing up with photographer Richard Dubois, Kearns comments, “When you are given a job to do you have to pick your people accordingly. There’s a lot of great photographers, but there are very few that know how to art direct.” Having collaborated with Dubois on various other projects, Kearns knew it was just the right fit. For the makeup, Kearns’s directions were straightforward but at the same time careful not to stifle individual creativity. “I said, ‘This is what we’re doing, you do your version of it.’” With the dresses made, hair and makeup in place, the eight looks were all shot in one day this past August for an October release date.

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REWIND

By Melissa Brazier

He’s gone from a ladies’ man to a family man. Not sure how to make your boomer-aged male clients feel as cool as they did back then?

Read on for a complete guide to boomer grooming trends for the fellas.

THEN:

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Now: Plenty of hot boomer celebs, like Denzel Washington and John Travolta, are leaning towards short, low maintenance buzz cuts. Although these styles can be distinctly cool and flattering, Chris Campbell, founder of Gym Grooming, suggests advising clients that a sudden perceived bloom

of grey hair may appear when going so short, since white tends to hide close to the root of the hair. He adds that since more scalp will be exposed, stylists should be cautious this look won’t age the client.

To create the look, Phillip Elliott, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year, suggests

“using a number one clipper to fade the sides and a number two on top.” Make sure not to round the shape too much by having the same length all over, he adds. Also, Elliott suggests keeping facial hair clean, or at most a bit of five o’clock shadow.

Photos courtesy toni & Guy

He used to be the bad boy with a heart of gold.

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THEN:

He used to be the class clown, the nice guy who never finished last.

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The slick-back hair trend of the 50s is in full effect. Men with medium-length hair can now update their look without enduring a drastic change. Paul Wilson, artistic director for American Crew, recommends “the perimeter be classic in its approach.

You want to make sure you have adequate length on top to connect with the perimeter. The transition area in the crown needs to have shape, as this is what makes this haircut happen.”

The length can vary, but Elliott advises no more than two inches on the sides

and three inches on top. Think Alec Baldwin for this style.

When it comes to facial hair, Elliott says, “I would have no facial hair. Instead, have sideburns where the longest point is at the bottom of the ear.” t

SLICK SAM

Now:

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THEN:

He used to be the untameable ladies man, a notorious heart breaker.

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Now:

Although boomer men may not be able to pull off the long, heavy fringe of their youth, they are becoming more interested in adding a little panache to their coif. Stylists are working with longer locks—à la Richard Branson—more often these

days. Jeff Louis, Contessa 20 finalist for Men’s Hairstylist of the Year, says, “The key is to have some structure to the hair. Keep it neat around the sideburns and ear area and let the length come from the top.”

This style can work for various face

shapes, but you want your client to be able to achieve the look post-salon.

Louis says, “Don’t over-texturize. A lot of stylists want to take the weight out, but then the client goes home and can’t style it because it’s all over the place.”

Go for simple yet stylish. S

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“I wanted to create a soft champagne blonde and worked with semi-permanent lightening products.”

—Akin Konizi

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“Working with a strong bitter chocolate at the root, I then merged this with a light oak brown through the length and ends to enhance the texture.” –AK

brITman Akin Konizi, British Hairdresser of the Year, modernizes the classic styles of the 60s

a

by Melissa Brazier

kin Konizi got his start in the industry at the age of 17, working as an apprentice at the Alan International Academy in Leicester Square, London. Fast forwarding 30 years and

Konizi is now a director for the UK’s celebrated Hob Salons and the 2009 British Hairdresser of the Year.

Of his winning collection, titled Signature, Konizi says, “I decided this year to go with something that is completely true to my hairdressing style and is synonymous with Hob’s trademark of precision cutting, styling and colouring.” Inspired by the looks of the mid-60s, Konizi adds, “My collection incorporates strong hair shapes, combining geometry with beauty.”

Looking to capture a historical and iconic vibe, which is why he chose to do the entire shoot in black and white, Konizi drew on his years of experience and the array of techniques he’s acquired. He quips, “I simply the Year was the fantastic cherry on top!”

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t

wanted to create beautiful hair, and being named British Hairdresser of

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Collection: Signature Hair: Akin Konizi, Hob Salons Makeup: Natsumi Watanabe Wardrobe: Damian Foxe Photos: Jenny Hands

“Applying parallel layers for a head-hugging shape, I kept the hair smooth and polished to enhance this 60sinfluenced style.”—AK

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“I worked with square layers to give a masculine feel. The top section was back-combed and a weft placed along the front hairline for an added effect.” —AK S

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Brand Vision

Wella Professionals re-launches Koleston Perfect and unveils its new identity By Morella Aguirre

I

n our industry, one of the scariest things and longest learning curves is colour,” says Fabio Sementilli, creative director of professional services for Wella Canada. A hairstylist by trade and now an avid teacher of the craft, Sementilli has observed this reality first hand through years of experience. Today, with this in mind, Sementilli is pouring countless hours of energy and work into something he believes will stimulate and celebrate a stylist’s total command of hair colour: Wella’s long-awaited re-branding and the re-launch of its Koleston Perfect range of colour.

“Wella is simplifying communication with the client and really bringing the technical mastery of colour to the forefront,” explains Sementilli. “Overall, we want to make the consumer more aware of the talent in the professional salon.”

Drawing on the insights of over 20,000 stylists and consumers and 28,000 hours of research, Wella first revealed its revived look and Koleston Perfect colour to a group of selected industry insiders and media in New York.

Launching officially in salons this past January, Wella’s new image and might is being supported in Canada through educational events and training seminars focusing on both the new products and the artists who bring the colour to life. See all the highlights at salon52.ca.

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• Find out which new Koleston Perfect colours you’ll be using the most • Get the full story on Triluxiv Technology • Learn more about hair gurus Josh Wood and Eugene Souleiman • Get inspired by Wella’s latest Trend Vision imagery Only on salon52.ca

Photos courtesy Wella Professionals

“

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Vibrant Reds

Wella’s Re-launch at a Glance Identity Wella’s makeover includes a redesigned logo and au courant packaging for its improved Koleston Perfect colour.

Communication Tools With the objective of improved, client-friendly colour consultations, Wella has launched an easy-to-use swatch book and categorized its Koleston Perfect colours into six streamlined tonal families: Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Deep Browns, Special Blondes and Special Mix. Here we feature the inspirational image behind each family.

Special Blondes

Creatives

Deep Browns

Wella’s new image has landed partnerships with two major style sources: A-list colourist Josh Wood has been appointed global creative director, colour, while fashion backstage favourite Eugene Souleiman is now the brand’s global creative director, style.

Colours This is where Wella really gets real. Its nine new shades focus on the most common colour family: brown.

Technology

Special Mix

Koleston Perfect now contains the new Triluxiv Technology. Its threephase system first treats the hair with lipids for even colour distribution, then deposits high-density colour molecules and finishes off with a light-reflective shield for a longlasting healthy shine. Triluxiv’s most exciting feature, however, is its fast activation of colour molecules. Learn more at salon52.ca. S

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Classic Couture Edwin Johnston discusses his C20 Elite Master Hairstylist collection

By Edwin Johnston, as told to Melissa Brazier

t

his collection was inspired by the

20s and 40s. I let my mind wander through thousands of photos and then started by playing on a mannequin head. The title came to me after, when I looked at the images and realized they were all classic shapes and techniques.

Shooting in one day, I had five models for two hours each. My concept was to shoot in black-and-white. However, when I saw the natural vibrancy of the red-headed model I had to show that off, so colour it was. I also worked around a model with bad roots. With no time to colour her, I took the ends of her hair, wrapped it around a hair donut in the front and improvised the rest using afro wigs.

Overall my goal for this collection was to take really clean, classic hair and make it modern.

“For the sides I used this mixture I make that’s three parts KMS hairstyling gel and one part KMS Flat Out smoothing cream. It’s perfect for pulling hair tight and straight back.”

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Hair: Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Colour: Fiona Johnston Makeup: Christina Lade Photos: Suzanne Teresa

“It wasn’t my initial inspiration, but it kind of looks like a turban, which works with the 40s theme.”—EJ

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

A Year in Retrospect

Edwin Johnston chats about his year after the Big Bang

By Melissa Brazier

Edwin Johnston wasn’t sure he was even going to be at Contessa 19. Making a quick decision to fly from Nanaimo, B.C., to Toronto, he was at the most talked about hair event of the year, and glad of it. Taking home both the British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year and Canadian Hairstylist of the Year awards with his Big Bang Baby collection left Johnston in awe. Still pinching himself a year later, he comments, “Winning this award has allowed me, a small-town hairstylist, to become a national name.”

A finalist six times since his first entry in 1992, Johnston says winning “cemented my previous years of success.

I’ve worked hard, but this proved it for me.” New contacts have also formed

“The fringe was done with a curling iron in a classic marcel wave. I just ran the iron through one time and it went right into the wave you see. That was a good day for hair.”—EJ

as a result of Johnston’s success. From Australia to New York to London, Johnston has been receiving congratulatory emails from such industry heavy hitters as Brad Ngata, Chris Barren and Jamie and Sally Brooks. Laughing at his own cheesiness, Johnston says, “I learned this past year that dreams do come true.” But he adds in a more serious tone, “This shows if you pull together a good concept and team, it will work out.”

His focus post-win has been mostly on his own team at Cutting Room Creative.

“Now that I’ve achieved what I wanted to, I can help mentor some of my staff in entering the Contessas.” Moving forward, the goal is to have his salon enter and win the team category at Contessa 21.

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1/27/09 8:28:56 PM 12/8/08 7:52:07 PM

By Melissa Brazier

Matrix re-launches SoColor with fresh and innovative technology

e work in an industry where new becomes old fast. For this reason Matrix has re-launched its permanent SoColor line, adding new ultraconditioning ingredients and improving the durability of the formula.

But fret not, the new SoColor uses the same developer and maintains its ease of use and impressive performance. From natural subtle looks to vibrant special effects, this line still does it all…only better.

how does it work?

Roch Lemay, colourist and director of education and events for Matrix Canada, says, “When we do colour we’re adding stress by opening the cuticle and weakening the structure of the hair, which in turn affects the durability of the colour.” SoColor’s solution to this age-old problem is a patented cera-oil complex with three active ingredients that work together to maintain strong hair and keep colour vibrant for longer.

First, the complex’s hexaforce polymer reinforces the cortex structure, repairing holes in damaged hair that cause colour to escape quickly. Secondly, ceramide polymers strengthen and protect the hair structure.

“The ceramide complex is cationic and turns damaged, negatively charged hair into healthy, positively charged hair,” explains Lemay.

Lastly, natural jojoba oil completes the process by nourishing and polishing the hair’s surface while closing the cuticle to lock in colour.

Lemay says the proof is in the pudding. “When stylists touch the hair at the sink, even before shampooing or conditioning, they will feel a tremendous difference.” Plus, this deep-conditioning formula lasts up to 30 shampoos, keeping hair soft and shiny between salon visits.

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SoColor also addresses the demand for colour longevity with updated ColorGrip technology. This is a hi-tenacity dye with even larger colour molecules that better grip the hair fibre. Lemay says, “When colour molecules penetrate the hair, they pair up to create larger molecules. This makes colour last longer. Formerly, ColorGrip was linking molecules in a linear fashion, so it was easier for them to slide out of the cuticle. Now molecules are pairing up to create X’s that link together, making it harder for the colour to escape the cuticle.”

As for the finishing touches, SoColor now has a creamier consistency for ease of application and a new fragrance of floral and fruity notes welcomed by stylists and clients alike.

why now?

Although SoColor grew an impressive 14 per cent in Canada during 2008, the advent of this new technology made Matrix see it was time for SoColor to welcome a revamp. Stephanie Gougoux, the group manager for Matrix Canada, says, “SoColor is a pillar brand in the salon industry, and it’s important that we have the best formulas in order to stay on top.” With the new SoColor the mission is to arm stylists with a line that not only has the latest technology, but is still simple to use and long-lasting.

want more?

Lemay adds that for the stylist and colourist, another appeal of SoColor is the educational support behind the line. Get an exclusive lesson on SoColor’s new line of HD reds in the April 09 issue of Salon Magazine. S

photo courtesy matrix

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COLOUR REINVENTION

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INTERIORS

Idea City Text by Melissa Brazier Photos by Rocco Morra

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Metro Beauty Supplyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new take on distribution

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INTERIORS

I

mmediately upon entering Metro’s slick, stylish and gigantic 56,000-square-foot facility, you realize this isn’t your average distributor. With 38 years in the beauty biz, Metro’s recent re-branding—which culminated last fall with the opening of its new headquarters in Woodbridge, ON—was not just a simple nip and tuck, but rather a complete overhaul. The process began in 2005, when the powers that be decided it was time for the company to start a fresh journey.

Today, Metro Beauty Supply has now been re-born as Metro…

Just Be. A major part of Metro’s new outlook, apparent in the formation and flow of its contemporary, Italian design-inspired space, is a commitment to being earth-friendly. Metro partnered with the company 3Form, which produces green materials for design, to equip the facility’s reception area with front doors made of recycled resin and thatch bamboo. Floor-to-ceiling windows make use of natural light and help further reduce the

Owner: Breakdown:

Major Brands:

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Metro, formerly Metro Beauty Supply 315 New Huntington Road, Woodbridge, ON; metrobeauty.ca Luigi Miraglia 56,000-square-foot facility that includes reception, boardroom and offices, call centre, bistro/lounge, amphitheatre complete with prep room, several classrooms, a gallery and a large warehouse Davines, I.C.O.N., Eufora, TIGI, Bio Ionic, Eva Garden, CURES, QTICA, Zoya, Plantogen, Metropolis, Dannyco, Beauty Star, Accel and Framesi

PHOTOS BRUNO DESJARDINS

Name: Info:

company’s carbon footprint. Furthermore, the area has floors covered in black tile with a pattern of circular ridges that are said to represent fingerprints and symbolize another of Metro’s social commitments: a dedication to individuality. “Everyone who comes here leaves their mark,” says Loredana Di Ciano, brand advisor at Metro.

Someone who definitely left his mark on the company was CEO Luigi Miraglia’s son Pasquale (Pat), who passed away in 2004 after a hard-fought battle with lymphoma. The facility’s Be Worldly Amphitheatre—a full-functioning theatre at the heart of the space—is not only dedicated to his memory but also represents Pat’s zest for life. With no bad seat in the house, the theatre has a circular layout and includes a 69-by-10-foot hardwood platform in the centre, an abundance of spotlights overhead, six TVs and seating for 240 guests—making it the perfect place to put on an unforgettable show.

Just on the other side of the amphitheatre is an adjoining and ample prep room. This mostly white space is divided into two halves by a pale blue recycled resin screen, allowing two hair teams to prep simultaneously. With six Beauty Star basins (a brand exclusive to Metro) on each side, there is also a handy TV screen in the middle of the back wall that shows live feed

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of what’s going on at the amphitheatre stage, thereby letting both teams know when the next model is to be cued. Smooth and seamless shows are the name of the game at Metro.

After taking in a presentation at the amphitheatre, guests can head to the Be Long Bistro, a versatile space that can double as a fully equipped cafe or a post-show lounge for mingling. This social hub, where personal meets professional, is immediately welcoming and heartens one to stay awhile. Along with the see-through Lucite chairs, the bistro’s most striking feature is its shiny Ferrari red porcelain tiles, imported from Italy and hand chosen by Miraglia to awaken the senses.

Adjacent to the bistro is the Be Metropolitan Gallery, the epitome of how Metro is changing the world of distribution and creating a community where all can feel welcome. Not interested in simply selling products, Metro has a mission to establish salon concepts. The gallery, with 12 installations covering everything from styling and colouring to cosmetics and furniture, is a means to that end, a place where salon owners can visualize their own unique salon culture.

An all-in-one facility, Metro’s headquarters also include a 30,000-square-foot warehouse. This area continues the theme of reducing the company’s carbon footprint, making use of natural light through several skylights and censored lights that turn off when no one is present.

Education is also a key part of Metro’s philosophy. The company will not distribute to a salon until the necessary product knowledge courses are completed, so this stateof-the-art building naturally features several classrooms: Be Well, Be Influential, Be Artisan and Be Connected.

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The amphitheatre, as well as cosmetic studio and spa installations located in the gallery, can also double as working classrooms if need be. Inside the classroom Be Well (a treatment studio), the ambience is one of a serene forest—complete with faux wood cabinets and porcelain tiles, textured wallpaper and scented candles—all in keeping with Metro’s earthy outlook. In addition, 10 per cent of all education sales goes toward supporting various charities.

It’s a long way from Luigi Miraglia’s first pink business card, which is framed and displayed in the gallery and contains a tagline bluntly declaring, “We do installations.”

Di Ciano says Metro’s new way of life is based on a message of well being. “At Metro we don’t sell products,” she notes. “We sell the ability to bring ideas to life.” S

For a fully guided tour by Metro brand advisor Loredana Di Ciano, visit salon52.ca.

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CONTEST

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COLLECTIONS > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES+PROFILES > POLLS > EDUCATION > JOBS > VIDEOS > CONTESSA + MORE w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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EVENTS

London Lessons SASSOOn

•

HOB

•

HARTLey

•

CAmeROn

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mAHOGAny

•

RuSH

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TOnI

&

Guy

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Salon International offers up the best in the business

By Stephen Puddister

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Photos courtesy salon InternatIonal

F

or three days this past October, Salon International delivered an exceptional learning experience. Attended by beauty pros from 56 countries, this year’s event counts among the best in the world in terms of education and inspiration. The show floor alone featured amazing stage presentations from Schwarzkopf, FHI Heat and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing.

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Vidal Sassoon

Photos courtesy salon InternatIonal

Tim Hartley

The Salon Live presentation featured the Toni & Guy Artistic Team, the Sassoon Academy and the always impressive Tim Hartley, to name just a few. Then, at the Salon Seminars, three of the UK’s most experienced and innovative education teams—Mahogany, Hob and Rush London presented

by Goldwell—showcased their latest collections in an intimate seminar environment.

As always, London’s vibrancy combined with Salon International’s mega-offerings made for the perfect hair affair. Be sure to check out more coverage at salon52.ca. For information on the 2009 show, go to salonexhibitions.co.uk. S

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EVENTS

2008 Alternative Hair Show The 26th Annual Alternative Hair Show was held at Royal Albert Hall in London on Oct. 18. A crowd of over 5,000 sang Happy Birthday to Vidal Sassoon, celebrating his 80th this year. The event raised over $300,000 for its designated charity, Leukaemia Research, funding research and giving support to sufferers and their families.

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ABA in Stampede City The Allied Beauty Association had over 5,400 stylists, students and industry insiders for the Calgary ABA trade show Oct. 5 to 6. Held at the Calgary Exhibition and Stampede Roundup Centre, the two-day show featured presentations by the Schwarzkopf Essential Looks team, Colomer Canada, TIGI, Sebastian Professional, Joico, Wella, Matrix, SexyHair, Jon Gonzales, Nancy Nemer and Dr. Katrina M. Kulhay.

Kevin Murphy Arrives On Oct. 26, celebrity stylist Kevin Murphy demonstrated his Aussie flair for a rapt audience and spoke about working through tough economic times at the Palais Royale in Toronto. Presented by Toronto Barber and Beauty School, the show featured Murphyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trademark undone beach hair look displayed on six models.

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EVENTS

BHA 2008 The 24th annual British Hairdressing Awards was held at the Grosvenor House Hotel in London on Nov. 24. The winners, including Akin Konizi for British Hairdresser of the Year, were recognized for their work in nine regional categories and Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Afro and Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year.

Plus, seasoned stylists Errol Douglas, Tim Scott-Wright and Robert Eaton were inducted into the hall of fame.

SKPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairapalooza Beauty professionals were treated to a lively stage show on Oct. 26 during the third annual Toronto Hairapalooza presented

by Schwarzkopf Professional. Over 500 hair-lovers attended the show, held at the Capitol Event Theatre. Stylists competed in New Talent and Professional categories, with Raquel Williams and Elena Boganets as the respective winners.

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BSGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fashion Focus With over 2,000 visitors and 21 exhibitors at the Fashion Focus trade show, the Toronto Convention Centre was buzzing on Nov. 16. This all-out hair affair included presentations by top stylists Errol Douglas and Ken Paves, as well as Rusk, Sebastian, Wahl and Alfaparf. Exhibitors included Belvedere to Wella and everyone in between.

The Mane Event Jake Gold, Fefe Dobson and Sitara Hewitt were just a few of the clients taking part in Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mane Event on Oct. 26, benefiting the Teresa Group, which helps local children affected by HIV and AIDS. Hosted by Solo Bace, Lift Salon + Spa, April Maloney Salon and Hair By David, the day successfully raised $20,000 for the cause.

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EVENTS

Artist Choice Grand Opening On Nov. 3, over 300 guests were in attendance as Artist Choice opened its innovative academy for advanced learning. After the grand opening party, guests were whisked away to Humber College to view a surprise hair show by British stylist and icon Vivienne Mackinder. In town for the Contessa Awards the night before, Mackinder prepped models and mannequin heads to a full house.

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Ken Paves Hits T.O. Ken Paves got an ecstatic reception from fellow stylists at a cocktail meet and greet held at the Artist Choice Studio on Nov. 17.

Arriving with two models in tow (a blonde and brunette sporting voluminous manes thanks to Paves’s HairDo extensions), he definitely got the media, stylists, students and industry bigwigs amped up.

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EVENTS

MARCH 2009 UNIQUE VANCOUVER March 2, 2009 Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre, Vancouver, BC www.lorealprofessionnel.ca ABA MONTREAL March 8—9, 2009 Palais des Congres Montreal, QC Info: abacanada.com

INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA DALLAS March 22—23, 2009 Arlington Convention Center Arlington, TX Info: dallas.skincareshows.com AMERICA’S BEAUTY SHOW (Formerly known as the Chicago Midwest Beauty Show) March 28—30, 2009 McCormick Place, Chicago, IL Info: americasbeautyshow.com

IBS PRESENTS ALL ABOUT BEAUTY SHOW March 14—16, 2009 Shaw Conference Centre Edmonton, AB Info: 800.642.3818 TOP HAIR INTERNATIONAL March 21—23, 2009 Düsseldorf Trade Fair Centre Düsseldorf, Germany Info: top-hair-international.com

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SCOOP

Spanish Showdown HAIR SUZANNE MARTIN PHOTO BABAK

Three Canadian finalists joined 70 colourists from around the world at the Goldwell Trend Zoom Color Challenge in Valencia, Spain.

Fiona Johnston from Cutting Room Creative (Nanaimo, B.C.), Suzanne Martin from Three Small Rooms (Barrie, ON) and Rodica Hristu from De Berardinis (Toronto) represented Canada in the Creative, Elumen and Partner Colorist categories respectively.

Jail bird A member of SKP’s Essential Looks team, Jeremy Ottenbreit was arrested at Salon Escape in Calgary as part of the Canadian Cancer Society’s 20th Annual JailN-Bail event. After a gag arrest and trial, Ottenbreit then sat in a fake cell dialing family and friends to help bail him out of “jail” by making tax-deductible donations.

Ottenbreit surpassed his $500 goal and raised over $4,000.

Honourable Mention The Upper Ottawa Valley Chamber of Commerce recognized Molly Van Bavel, owner of Cut-Rite Family Hairstyling Salon and Indulgence Spas in the Ottawa area, with a lifetime achievement award.

Van Bavel, who accepted her award at a gala on Jan. 31, has had a strong reputation for community involvement over the 35 years she’s been in business.

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The new kid Vincent Lemieux, former brand director for Kérastase, has been appointed the new brand director for Matrix Canada. In this role, Lemieux will oversee all of Matrix’s operations across the country. Former Matrix VP and GM Hugo Boisvert has also found himself in motion as he takes on the role of GM Matrix/ Redken Asia Zone.

Canadian Connection

Edmonton’s EvelineCharles Academy partners with Sassoon The first Canadian outpost for Sassoon training opened on Oct. 29, 2008 when Edmonton’s EvelineCharles Academy began a partnership with the fashion-forward house of hair. “What drew me to the best education was always Sassoon,” says Eveline Charles, founder of the three-year-old cosmetology, makeup art and esthetics school. Stephen Moody, creative director for Sassoon Academy, explained that the Sassoon Academy Connection program works to globally unite stylists and instructors through common language and practices. Can’t get to Alberta? Suit your Sassoon fix with a new set of educational DVDs, ABC Coloring Hair the Sassoon Way. For more info, call 1.888.757.5100 ext. 3.

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LAST WORD

’ve been eagerly anticipating 2009 for some time. Come July of this milestone year, I can say that I have worked in the wonderful trade of hairdressing for 50 years. I started as a wet-behind-the-ears apprentice in 1959, and I’m still behind the chair three days a week— something I would not give up for all the tea in China. Or India, or Japan, for that matter.

When not in the salon, I spend my time doing research for my crossCanada lecture series about hairdressing, called “Are You Curious?” I always point out in my lectures that we can practise our trade anywhere in the world, so long as we have a kit bag packed with the basic necessities— scissors, comb and bobby pins.

Allow me to share with you some interesting facts about these tools of the trade, starting with scissors.

Invented in ancient Egypt around 1500 BCE, scissors were at first formed from a single piece of metal. Improvement soon came from the Middle East, with “spring scissors,” comprising two bronze blades connected at the handles by a thin curved bronze strip. The Romans invented cross-bladed scissors around 100 AD, eventually spreading them to every corner of their empire. The book The Story of Scissors notes: “In the fifth century, the scribe Isidore of Seville describes cross-bladed shears or scissors with a centre pivot as tools of the barber and tailor.”

As scissors gradually became part of everyday life, the superstitions that arose around them gave them great power. For instance, did you know that putting your scissors away during a thunderstorm lessens the likelihood of lightning striking your home? But be careful—if you’re in such a hurry that you drop them, that means your lover is unfaithful.

Speaking of scissors and possible disasters, let me mention that thinning and texturizing scissors are best used by those who really understand the concepts of haircutting and rendering service to the client. Understanding the type of hair you’re working with and giving it texture is marvellous. But thinning the hair for effect and then finishing with a hairdryer in a way the client will never be able to replicate is not a good idea.

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On to combs, probably humankind’s first tool. Archaeologists have discovered very refined combs in Persian settlements dating back to 5,000 years ago. Until synthetic alternatives came along, humans made combs from buffalo and cattle horns, bones, ivory, wood, silver, gold, tin, brass and tortoise shell—whatever raw material was available. This could have its down side, and not only for elephants and tortoises. Using the Chinese Kingfisher’s exquisite turquoise feathers to make chic combs led to the near extinction of the species.

I bet you didn’t know that the spaces between the teeth on a comb are called combdrums, or that a comb can be classified as a type of musical instrument called a lamellophone, because its teeth have harmonic qualities, determined by their shape, length and material.

And should you feel depressed by the current financial doom and gloom, some practitioners of holistic medicine strongly advise the acupuncture effect of vigorously combing your hair to stimulate the nerves. Apparently, using a comb with sharp-pointed teeth will bring the best results.

And finally, the tiny but mighty bobby pin. Accounts vary as to its origins sometime around 1920, but it came into its own in that decade to keep the wildly fashionable bobbed hair in place. By 1929, 90 per cent of North American women had adopted bobbed hair, leading to a surge in the number of beauty salons. Versatile little things, bobby pins can also be used to pick locks and open handcuffs. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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