Salon Magazine, March 2010

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

magazine

l salon the business of beauty and style

spring report

march 10 $5 salon52.ca

DISCOVER THE HAIRCOLOUR OF THE FUTURE

DISCOVER INOA TODAY 1-877-281-2798 OR WWW.INOA.CA

(EXCLUSIVELY IN SALONS)

•NO MORE ODOUR. NO AMMONIA •OPTIMUM SCALP COMFORT •OPTIMAL RESPECT* OF THE HAIR •INFINITE COLOUR POWER •100% GREY HAIR COVERAGE ODS technology (Oil Delivery System): A breakthrough oil-based delivery system that maximizes the effectiveness of the permanent haircolour process, while providing up to 2X more lipid protection to hair, compared to our leading professional permanent haircolour brand in the world. *Respects the potential of lipids and essential amino acids of natural hair. **Results measured after 5 applications.

Discover the new standard of professional colour care.

Available exclusively from Pureology and your professional colourist.

1-877-PUREOLOGY PUREOLOGY.COM

NEW ThermalAntiFadeComplex速. ZeroSulfate速 Shampoos.

100% Vegan Ingredients. Organic Botanicals.

Super Smooth

Introducing , professional colour care for unmanageable, multiple-chemically processed colour-treated hair. Enriched with natural smoothing oils to transform hair and organic geranium to condition and intensify shine. The exclusive concentrated ZeroSulfate速 Shampoo and heat-protective ThermalAntiFadeComplex速 optimize colour retention and brillaince for longer lasting hair colour GUARANTEED!

EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF

PROFESSIONAL SMOOTHING

FOR COLOUR-TREATED HAIR

SMOOTHING OILS OF CAMELLIA, SESAME, & SHEA BUTTER Conditioning organic geranium Lasting frizz-free control

Ess E n s i t y ’s

inspirED byn at u r E contEst i s h E r E ag a i n Back by popular demand, ESSENSITY presents... Inspired by Nature 2010. You could win an exclusive photo shoot in Toronto with a leading Canadian fashion photographer. Get yourself—and your work—on the set of a professional photo shoot by creating Canada’s most stunning hairstyle inspired by nature—using, of course, ESSENSITY, Schwarzkopf’s line of natural colour, care and styling products.

Photos of you, a model and your winning hairstyle will then be featured on two exclusive pages of Salon Magazine. Plus, you’ll win a host of prizes including round-trip travel and accommodation for the shoot in Toronto, a year’s supply of ESSENSITY products and more.

The prize package is valued at over $10,000. For contest details, go to salon52.ca/contests beginning March 1, 2010.

Contest ends June 3, 2010. Let the inspiration begin.

STYlING

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f o r m o r e i n f o o n e s s e n s i t y c o n tac t 1- 8 0 0 - 4 6 3 - 3 0 81 o r v i s i t s c H wa r z ko p f - p r o f e s s i o n a l .c a

Š 2010 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962

All Rights Reserved.

CREATE YOUR OWN NATURAL

WITH 5 NEW PURE SHADES FROM KOLESTON PERFECT®.

Introducing the new Koleston Perfect® Pure series, 5 pure shades that enhance the natural tone in your client’s hair with no additional unwanted tones. Together with Color Touch®, you have power to create custom natural-looking results with the new Natural Art Service, only from Wella Professionals.

To learn more about the Natural Art Service, call 1-800-267-1962 and ask about Wella’s Color Movement Seminars.

“Natural-looking color is right on trend. But for me, luxuriously natural-looking color is about creating results that don’t actually make her hair look colored.”

Josh Wood Global Creative Color Director for Wella Professionals

See Sheer, luminous, unbelievably brilliant color.

Feel Soft, silky, unbelievably conditioned hair and scalp.

Experience An unbelievably delicious tropical vanilla fragrance.

Let us i.Luminate you at ISOhair.com. Š2010 Innovative Styling Options, Inc., a division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3 HAIR AND COLOR: Addam Moreno and Darby Shields PHOTO: Kevin Rolly

1-800-267-4676

It’s a New Year

What better time than the present to expand your career and become a Certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist? Great Lengths® has remained in the forefront and its cutting edge technology continues to keep up with advancements in the gentle processing of hair, ensuring that our hair is unmatched for quality, availability and dependability.

This could be your year to break into the world of Great Lengths® — all it takes is a phone call to request an information package that will explain what Great Lengths® can offer you for a future of unlimited creativity, career satisfaction and opportunities to grow and prosper. Don’t waste another day — call us and speak to one of our customer service consultants to see how you too can become a Certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist.

BEFORE

Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO MONTREAL QUEBEC REGINA EDMONTON VANCOUVER

March 7–8 | April 18–19 | May 16–17 – CLASSIC 3200 March 28–29 | May 30–31 – ULTRA SONIC COLD FUSION April 11–12 – CLASSIC 3200 March 28–29 | May 30–31 – ULTRA SONIC COLD FUSION May 2–3 – CLASSIC 3200 May 30–31 – CLASSIC 3200 April 11–12 – CLASSIC 3200 March 14–15 – CLASSIC 3200 April 11–12 – ULTRA SONIC COLD FUSION

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths® Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

Midnight Stage

Nature’s Goddess

Nomad Couture

Techno Poetry

crÉEZ VOTrE VISION Allez Sur SAloN52.CA eT iNSCrivez-vouS à viSioN TeNdANCeS 2010 date limite d’inscription : 3 mai Plus de renseignements sur les tendances de 2010 page 62

2

3

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• Choisissez la tendance qui vous inspire

• Regardez des vidéos d’anciens finalistes de Vision Tendances

• Choisissez votre catégorie • Coloration ou Jeune talent

• Aucun frais d’inscription

• Les finalistes se livreront concurrence EN DIRECT aux prix Vision Tendances canadiens de 2010, à Toronto, le 27 septembre

• Devenez coiffeur-vedette international : représentez le Canada aux prix internationaux Vision Tendances de 2010 Paris, en France, le 7 novembre

1

iNSPirezvouS

iNSCrivez-vouS eN Sur SAloN52.CA direCT

• Remplissez le formulaire d’inscription et téléchargez votre photo

viSioN GloBAle

Participez aux ateliers Vision Tendances partout au Canada Plus de renseignements sur la ligne d’assistance Vision Tendances : 1-800-267-1962 Veuillez lire les règlements, disponibles en ligne

Together. A passion for hair

Rebuild beauty from within.

NEW: BC hairtherapy with Amino Cell Rebuild technology is designed to create beautiful hair with brilliant shine. A new generation of care delivers a new level of performance by targeting damaged hair cells and rebuilding the condition of hair from the inside. Discover a new way to care for hair, discover hairtherapy.

Available in salons March 1, 2010.

PLUS 2 MAJOR CONTESTS that you won’t want to miss out on! Ask your Schwarzkopf Professional consultant about how your clients can win an all expense paid trip to NY AND how hairdressers across the country can win an all expense paid trip to London, England … all compliments of BC hairtherapy!

Full contest details on www.letyourhairBCeen.ca

Need more information – just ASK! www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca or 800.463.3081.

WELLA is

...a celebration of stylists ...inspiration and innovation ...an international platform for a new generation of rising talent

WELLA is CUT LOOSE AND FLY TOGETHER!

Midnight stage

nature’s Goddess

nomad couture

Techno poetry

Create your vision Go to salon52.ca and enter Trend Vision 2010 entry deadline: May 3rd For more information on the 2010 Trends, go to page 62

2

3

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• Select the Trend that inspires you

• Watch video footage of past Trend Vision Finalists

• Select your Category • Color or Young Talent

• No entry fee

• As a finalist you will compete LIVE at Canada’s National Trend Vision Award 2010 in Toronto on September 27th

• Be an International Hair Styling Star, represent Canada at the International Trend Vision Award 2010 in Paris, France on November 7th

1

GeT inspired

enTer aT salon52.ca

• Fill out entry form and upload your photo

Go liVe

Go Global

Join us for Trend Vision workshops across Canada Phone our Trend Vision hotline for more information: 1-800-267-1962 Please read rules and regulations, available online.

42

Spring Report: Runway

l salon

MARCH.10

magazine

the business of beauty and style

41 SPRING REPORT:

48

RUNWAY

Salon Magazine dishes on spring’s biggest hair trends as seen backstage at the New York, Milan and Paris S/S ‘10 runway shows

FACE

The no-makeup makeup

50

NAILS

52

HAIR

18

This season’s nail trends feature bold colours and new effects

56

NEW PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

Schwarzkopf Professional relaunches the BC Hairtherapy line and Pureology introduces a line of smoothing products for damaged hair

58

COLOUR

L’Oréal Professionnel launches the highly anticipated Inoa colour line

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

42

spring report

se.m.10.cover.1-0.indd 12

march 10 $5 salon52.ca

1/27/10 3:12:50 PM

Hair: Michelle Thompson, Francesco Group Academy, Stafford, UK Makeup: Wai Kan Wardrobe: Shazzy Thomas Photos: Alessandro Cecchini

A look at this season’s two extremes: volume vs. straight

s a l o n > march 10

salon52.ca

Colour with Style

FASHION+ TECHNOLOGY= BEAUTIFUL RESULTS

Outshine the competition with cutting edge fashion blended with innovative technology. www.tigiprofessional.com (800)259.8596

38

SHELF LIFE Six new products your clients will love

FEATURES 60 HAIR COLLECTIONS Featuring looks from the Essensity Inspired By Nature contest, Wella Professionals Trend Vision and Goldwell

74

COLOUR CROWN Winners from the Vero K-Pak Color Competition are announced

REGULARS 22 EDITOR’S LETTER 24 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 26 SALON52.CA

64

Just Naked

by Goldwell

66

CONTESSA GALLERY

68

PROFILE

72

ESTHETICS

76

INTERIORS

78 80

SCOOP

This month on salon52.ca

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52

Spring Report: Hair

HAIRLINES SKP launches Igora Vario Blond Plus and Blond Extra Power p.28; the latest products for curly haired clients p.30; BSG and Strategies join forces p.30; CIABC hosts its fourth annual educational cruise p.30; L'Oréal Canada launches Shu Uemura p.32; Evolve supports the 2010 Fill the Cup Campaign p.32; Shear Genius returns for a third season with a Canadian on board p.32; the latest tool innovations p.34; get HST-ready p.36; Shelf Life offers six new products your clients will love p.38

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s a l o n > march 10

Edwin Johnston talks about his C21 British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year collection

Keeping busy with multiple projects means Brennen DeMelo is not your average stylist

Need to update your esthetic products? Look for labels listing these revolutionary ingredients

Studio 237 becomes Canada’s first Matrix Biolage concept salon

EVENTS Coverage of Salon International, Goldwell Color Zoom, Wella Professionals International Trend Vision Awards and more

98

LAST WORD

by John Steinberg salon52.ca

DARE TO TRANSFORM NEW STYLE CONNECTION

Unleash your creativity. New Style Connection compliments professional cuts through pioneering textures and high-fashion finishes. Cutting-edge products for surface-transforming hairstyles. Do you dare?

STYLED WITH MATTE SPONGE 05

STYLED WITH WOOL SHAKE 08

ESIGN • david hillis salon, on • SAJE SALON AND SPA, ON

bAR, ON • UVALUX • HEDKANDISALON, AB AHAIR • CreeKside salon, bC • MILADY • L’ORÉAL CANADA D’S HAIR • Katana shears • ARTIST CHOICE ACADEMY TUDIOS • lounge hair studio, bC • NISIM INTERNATIONAL OUP • donato salons, on • AG HAIR COSMETICS started at Salon back in March 2005. The first issue I helped put was May+June 05, Salon’s first-ever Session Issue.

ONS • beauty systems group • CHATTERS together CANADA Although I held the title of associate editor, I was fresh from

LLEGE • blo

PHOTO BABAK

EDITOR’S LETTER

Farewell Friends I

HILLIS ON and wrote only one or two TUDIO • salon J hair studios, bC • DAVIDinterning, knew SALON, nothing of the industry

SHEARS • alFred’s hair, ab • BLO BAR, ONselected.

• UVALUX Actually, I argued with the editor over most photo selects,

minor stories. I remember I didn’t really like the cover that was

and the editing process, and the work flow, and who knows what oNE X ONE • MEGAHAIR • CREEKSIDE SALON, BC else. In other words, I was smitten. My editor and predecessor, Stephen Puddister, knew it right away.

VALUX • purE HAIR INC • MC COLLEGE

DE SALON •

Although we often argued like an old married couple, Puddister and

SALON • ini hair design, on • LOUNGE HAIR STUDIO, I made a good team. IbC eventually got to know the industry, and when

ON CANADA • Chatters Canada • DONATO SALONS, associate editor to managing editor—took the job of editor-in-chief.

he left the magazine a little over a year ago, I—who had gone from

after a year and one month leading the Salon editorial team, it’s OSMETICS • ag hair CosmetiCs • BEAUTYNow, SYSTEMS GROUP

time for me to say goodbye. Next month, Salon and salon52.ca will

a new STUDIOS, editor.

TIONAL • nisim international • SALON J have HAIR BC

AB ADEMY • artist ChoiCe aCademy • ALFRED’S still be atHAIR, Salon Communications

The comforting news for me is that I’m not going far. I will Inc. as editor of Elevate and elevatemagazine.com, our anti-aging and cosmetic enhancement CANADA • m LADY • L’ORÉAL CANADA magazine and website. I will still work with the same dynamic and diligent art department, collaborate with our talented associate • MC COLLEGE ALON • hedKandisalon, ab • PURE HAIR INC editor, Anupa Mistry, and at least will still be able to take coffee ND SPA • saJe salon and spa, on • INI HAIR breaks DESIGN, with Salon’s Melissa ON Brazier, a major force behind this magazine. I will also still be involved in producing the Contessas— COMOX VALLEY HAIRSTYLISTS • ONE X ONE • MEGAHAIR “keeping a finger in the pie,” as John Steinberg put it. Nevertheless, I’ve promised not to get involved where I don’t belong, so with my dearest gratitude I say thank you to everyone in this industry for welcoming me over the past five years. I have truly loved my time at Salon Magazine.

One final musing: When I started at Salon I soon realized how much heart this industry has. It was just a few months after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, and we were constantly hearing of your efforts to help those in need. Today, a few months after another devastating disaster, the earthquake, aftershocks and consequent humanitarian crisis in Haiti, I’m sure the salon industry will come together to help. Please make sure to share your efforts with us once again. I look forward to reading about them in Salon and on salon52.ca.

i

Canadian beauty pros love to give.

Join these Companies in helping haiti.

Morella Aguirre Editor-in-Chief

22

s a l o n > march 10

salon52.ca

50 COLOURS. 15 EFFECTS. ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES. Think of Colour as the clothes and Effects the accessories. A layer of Effects over your favorite rich crème Colour changes your look a little or a lot.

The Colour revolution has started.

NEW! From CND.

Shown on model: Left: Girlie Pink Right: Girlie Pink + Gold Pearl

760.599.2900 800.833.NAIL cnd.com cnd.com/colour3SM ©2009Nail Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2010 Creative Design, Inc.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 19 issue 3

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com AssociAtE Editor

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com AssistAnt Editor

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com dEsignEr

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com EditoriAl intErn

Taking Care of Business

Subha Arulvarathan Fran Schechter

24

s a l o n > march 10

contributors

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Jef Catapang publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com dirEctor of sAlEs & businEss dEvElopMEnt

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@beautynet.com sAlEs AssociAtE

Alice Ardal > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | alice@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE publishEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca finAncE

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com businEss AdMinistrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com chAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vicE-prEsidEnt & WEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USd A ddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada sA l on MAg AZ in E

365 Bloor St. e. Suite 1902 toronto, oN M4w 3l4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

national Magazine Awards

Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Pam Fulford

copy Editor

N

othing says spring in Canada, and in the salon industry, than making it out to your favourite beauty show. I’m looking forward to this year’s Toronto ABA, where some new things are happening. If you haven’t heard already, the show is taking place earlier this year, from Feb. 28 to March 1, and, among others, the Vidal Sassoon team will be presenting on the main stage. The ABA has also moved all cash and carry to one central location. This initiative is designed to put the focus back on education, while still meeting the needs of the shopper. Be sure to check out abacanada.com for more info.

I’ve become more involved with the ABA this year since my philosophy is that it’s better to be part of the solution than the problem. The ABA does a lot of good work behind-the-scenes, and the shows are simply the most visible mandate the association offers. Having attended over 25 Toronto ABA shows, I’m learning that bringing new ideas and keeping it fresh (and the members happy) can be a tall order. I welcome your input and thoughts.

Unfortunately, the 2010 ABA Vancouver show has been cancelled due to venue conflicts and the Olympics. The good news is that the show promises to be back in 2011 with more gusto in a new venue, the Vancouver Convention Centre West, considered one of the most beautiful facilities in the world. It’s bound to be a fantastic event. In the meantime, speak with your local distributor about what’s coming up in terms of spring education events.

Another hot topic that has salon owners in Ontario and British Columbia riled up is the new harmonized tax that will take effect in July 2010. I asked one of my favourite business gurus, Michael Hlinka, tenured professor at George Brown and CBC Radio business commentator, for his thoughts. “As a general principle, the HST is the biggest non-issue of all time. All industries are treated similarly, therefore the (relative) impact will be non-existent. For almost everything—including housing—the absolute impact will be negligible.”

Whatever your opinion, my advice is get prepared—flip to page 36, where we cover the basic need-to-know info and talk to your accountant to get a plan in place. Don’t let it affect your business; take a proactive approach.

sEnior stAff WritEr

Gold

Silver

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

Top Five

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recy

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C a N a d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon52.ca

salon52.ca what’s on

march 10

> GOLDWELL JUST NAKED > L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TRAVEL

straight to your inbox!

See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter!

Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

s52 blog Check out salon52.ca/blog for the latest news and photos from guest bloggers Fabio Sementilli and Babak, and hair gossip, celebrity style, photos and the lowdown on salon politics.

26

s a l o n > march 10

s52 contests WANT A SHOT AT THE TREND VISION TITLE? Submit your vision for a chance to compete at Trend Vision nationals this fall!

National winners receive an all-expenses paid trip to compete internationally in Paris. See more details and enter for FREE at salon52.ca/contest.

GET INSPIRED ONCE AGAIN! The ESSENSITY Inspired By Nature contest is back for another year!

Create your own nature-inspired image and it could end up in a future issue of Salon, just like Kristy Nickerson’s images on page 60. See more details and enter at salon52.ca/contest.

salon52.ca

PHOTO COURTESY: WELLA PROFESSIONALS

> MICHELLE THOMPSON STRONG AND SEXY

ALESSANDRO CECCHINI; PHOTO COURTESY: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL;

collections

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: HAIR: MICHELLE THOMPSON, MAKE UP: WAI KAN, PHOTO:

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

hairlines

news

brand new blonde

PHOTO cOurTesy scHwarzkOPf PrOfessiOnal essenTial lOOks

E

28

very year Schwarzkopf Professional sells over two million tubs of bleach to salons around the globe, so making blonde easier to achieve is crucial. Its latest innovations are Igora Vario Blond Plus and Blond Extra Power. The former is a blue dust-free bleach powder with up to seven levels of lift and a smooth consistency for better application. Blond Extra Power is a white dust-free bleach powder with an anti-yellow effect that reaches up to eight levels of lift and contains an easy mixing system for extra- powerful lightening properties.

s a l o n > march 10

salon52.ca

HAIRLINES

news

AHOY!

Soft curls are the latest challenge this season With over 50 per cent of the female population having naturally curly or wavy hair, guaranteed you’ve heard a handful of clients complaining about the difficulty of managing their wild manes. From out-of-control frizz to the time it takes to style every morning, this type of hair can literally be quite a handful. One of the trends this season is soft, free flowing curls. But this look doesn’t always come easily to curly-haired clients, and therein lies the challenge. Arm them (and yourself) with the latest curl-friendly product innovations. *Statistic courtesy Redken

Redken Curl Collection This new three-product line addresses different levels of curl to offer clients a customized styling solution. The specific moisturizer in each product (avocado oil, sunflower oil or mango butter) provides various levels of hydration offering perfect curls every time.

Info: redken.ca Tigi Catwalk Curlesque Curl Collection A medley of kelp, algae, cucumber water, seaweed and sea fennel form this line’s Aquacomplex, which gives curly hair an extra boost of hydration and definition. Watch out for this new line of curl products this April.

Info: tigihaircare.com

L’Oréal Professionnel Play Ball Curl Candy This curl-defining gel cream contains high-coverage polymers that will dampen the hair and allow you to really sculpt and define curls.

Plus clients will love the yummy gummy-bear-like scent.

Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

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s a l o n > march 10

Joining Forces Beauty Systems Group (BSG), Cosmoprof and Strategies partner up to increase the industry’s business know-how

S

trategies is now offering a 10 per cent discount on seminars and webinars to all BSG and CosmoProf customers across North America. The idea behind this partnership is to sharpen the scissors of the salon industry, so to speak. In other words, to help you survive and succeed in today’s competitive economy by providing comprehensive business education. To get involved you can register at strategies.com or call 800.417.4848 for more info.

salon52.ca

MODEL PHOTO: HAIR: SHAWN HALL, MAKEUP: KYLIE O’TOOLE, WARDROBE: BERNARD CONNALLY, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE

Curl It Up

From Oct. 9 to 16, the CIABC welcomes industry pros to join them on the Carnival Liberty cruise boat to enjoy an educational vacation. Tour the Western Caribbean (including stops in Mexico, Grand Cayman and Jamaica), while learning the latest trends, attending hands-on workshops and networking with industry peers from across Canada. The hair sponsors for this event include Joico and ISO, who are both hosting three different classes, offered twice daily. The Joico sessions will be taught by Damien Carney, Shannon Simmonds and Shane Harrison, and the ISO classes by Addam Moreno, Darby Shields and Chantal Pilon. Check out joicoartistscanada.com or call 800.267.4676 to register today.

JUPITERIMAGES

Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia (CIABC) hosts fourth annual educational cruise

Anna is wearing Yes I Can.

Believe

SparItuaL VEgan naIL LaCquErS and ELIxIrS arE frEE of dBp, toLuEnE, formaLdEhydE and formaLdEhydE rESIn

shoot for the stars crème

yes I can crème Spread your wings crème

i beliEve in you crème hope springs eternal shimmer

I am the light crème

BELIEVE CoLLECtIon SPRING 2010 These six new shades are available in our new 12-piece lacquer display, made out of renewable Bamboo and featuring the SpaRitual logo. Each bottle of lacquer comes with its own unique inspirational charm that can be used to decorate a bracelet, necklace or keychain. The Believe Collection is available for a limited time, while supplies last.

Distributions France Lecuyer QC 514.272.0222 West coast beauty BC 604.321.2700 MaritiMe beauty suppLy NB, NS, PEI 902.429.8510 aLternative beauty services ON 905.670.0611 suMMit saLon services AB, SK, MB 403.252.6201 internationaL beauty services AB, SK, MB 780.454.3388 icon saLon systeMs BC 604.591.2339 concept Jp QC 450.687.2595

hairlines

news

Call to Action

Evolve supports the World Food Programme’s 2010 Fill the Cup Campaign

I

Japanese Art High-end hair care line expands to Canada

n developing countries around the world, approximately 66 million children go to school hungry. Evolve is calling on you to do something about it by supporting the World Food Programme’s Fill the Cup Campaign in your salon. Throughout 2010, Evolve will be offering special product promotions where a portion of each sale will go towards filling the cup of a malnourished child. Plus, as an added incentive, one lucky salon will be randomly drawn to win a safari trip for two to Africa, which includes going to a local school and meeting the children whose lives you have helped change. Call 800.267.4676 for more info on how to get involved.

Today the name Shu Uemura is synonymous with luxurious makeup and lavish false lashes. Moving into the world of professional hair care, Shu Uemura Art of Hair has recently been launched in Canada under the umbrella of the L’Oréal Group. This high-end line consists of four key categories: Full Shimmer to protect colour treated hair, Moisture Velvet to hydrate dry hair, Silk Bloom to restore damaged hair and Muroto Volume to amplify fine hair.

Internationally Known

t

he TV series and hairstyling competition Shear Genius had its season-three premiere on Feb 3.

For the first time the show’s producers cast their nets internationally and invited top stylists from all over the world to compete. Toronto’s very own Amy Michleb of Woody Michleb Hair Salons, Static Hair Studio and Kenchii Shears will be representing Canada in the competition. Stay tuned!

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salon52.ca

photo courtesy nbc

Shear Genius returns for a third season with a Canadian on board

FEED YOUR HAIR. FEED THE HUNGRY.

fill the cup!

When you purchase a specially marked EVOLVE Fill the Cup promotion, you fill the cup of a hungry child with a nutritious meal.

Fill the Cup is the United Nations World Food Programme’s campaign for school meals. WFP provides school meals to approximately 20 million children globally.

One pack at a time.

One meal at a time.

One life at a time.

FIND OUR “EVOLVE’s FILL THE CUP PROJECT” PAGE ON FACEBOOK To learn more about EVOLVE and details on where to buy, call 1.800.267.4676 To learn more about WFP’s Fill the Cup Campaign, visit www.wfp.org Top: WFP/Gabriel Baptista | Bottom Left: WFP/Rein Skullerud | Bottom Right: WFP/James Giambrone Facebook is a registered trademark of Facebook, Inc.

hairlines

tool of the month

Hai Elite Style Mate Dual Voltage Ionic Travel Dryer website haitools.com

Features: Ionizer built into the nozzle produces negative ions for more manageable hair • Ergonomically sound with a curved handle, non-slip soft-touch grip and balanced

wiN it!

design to reduce wrist pressure • One-touch locking cold

enter for a chance to win these two compact tools at salon52.ca. Giveaway runs march 5 to 19, 2010.

shot button is perfect for setting styles in place • Dual voltage switch for use in North America and internationally

Hai Elite Style Mate Compact Ceramic Iron website haitools.com

Features: Nano tourmaline plates imbedded with PTFC heaters for even heat that creates shinier, smoother hair • Negative Ion Technology and Far Infrared Rays close the cuticle, sealing in moisture and colour • Silicone ball technology provides extra sensitive floating plates that will adjust to all hair types • Non-slip finger grips and ultra light (6 oz.) design ensures easy handling

Name Twisted Ego Curling Iron

Name Big Ego 1 in. Iron website ego-haircare.com

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design includes a generous 10 ft. cord

Features:

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infrared rays and anions for frizz-free results

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salon52.ca

OPI SPRING/SUMMER 2010 COLOR CHART

EDITION C (OPI ITEM NO. DC H03)

EDITION A (OPI ITEM NO. DC H01)

EDITION COF (OPI ITEM NO. DC H08) LACQUERS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: RED MY FORTUNE COOKIe,

BLING DYNASTY,

A GOOD MAN-DARIN IS HARD TO FIND, HOT & SPICY,

CHOP-STICKING TO MY STORY,

JADE IS THE NEW BLACK, DIM SUM PLUM,

SUZI SAYS FENG SHUI,

MEET ME ON THE STAR FERRY,

LUCKY LUCKY LAVENDER,

PANDA-MONIUM PINK,

PEARL OF WISDOM

If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Nail Lacquers feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush (Patent Pending).

Call 800.341.9999 ©2010 OPI Products Inc.

hairlines

business

Living in Harmony Your guide to getting HST-ready

36

s a l o n > march 10

rate and what it would apply to in one section of the software.” Elliott reassures salon owners concerned about tracking the new tax that this too will be a cinch. “Our software provides a variety of reports that deliver a statement of the taxes collected both in detail and summary form for any date range.”

Labrosse adds that staff should be ready to answer consumer queries. Managers may even want to provide a script for employees that clearly explains how HST differs from the old tax system, how much services will now cost clientele, and that this is not a price increase on the part of the salon, but rather an industry-wide change resulting from governments coordinating taxes.

Elliott says an immediate but short-term effect on revenue pushes customer retention to the top of a salon’s priority list. She recommends following up to see how new prices are affecting customers. “If you haven’t seen your clients in a while, give them a quick call, send them a quick email, let them know that you’ve noticed that they’ve not been there,” she says.

She also suggests client surveys that can be answered anonymously. “That way if clients are uncomfortable speaking to you about financial situations, you still have a way of finding out what’s happening.” Staying in touch and providing a valuable service will make the difference between clients who jump ship and those who stay loyal, whether by absorbing the new cost or

spacing out their visits. Perhaps most importantly, staff shouldn’t join in any unwarranted panic.

“Look very organized and well-presented, and speak freely about it—almost welcome the change,” Elliott says.

Finally, in order to help business owners with the HST transition, Ontario’s Ministry of Revenue is holding free tax information seminars across the province. For a full list of seminars, go to rev.gov.on.ca. Also, starting in July, the Ontario government will be offering small business transitional assistance of up to $1,000 for GST/ HST registrants who make less than $2 million in annual revenue.

The British Columbia Ministry of Finance is also offering a variety of outreach programs, including an online newsletter that will continuously send updates and info. Head to gov.bc.ca/hst for more info.

jupiter images teXt jeF CatapaNg

T

he harmonization of sales taxes in Ontario and British Columbia has many in the salon industry leery of HST’s July 1 rollout date. But with foresight and focus, salons need not worry in the long run, industry experts say.

HST reform will combine the separate provincial and federal sales taxes on products and services to a single tax of 13 per cent in Ontario and 12 per cent in British Columbia.

Although it won’t affect prices for goods that previously carried both a PST and GST charge, it will hike costs for personal services like haircuts and other salon specialties that used to be PST exempt.

But Sunny Labrosse, CFO for Collega for Aveda, says HST also comes with business benefits and long-term savings that some experts say could trickle down to the salon client. For example, under the old system, salons couldn’t deduct the PST from the cost of materials and products bought from their distributors; instead, that cost was embedded and passed on to the consumer. But after the PST and GST combine, the sales tax on business inputs, which includes everything from shampoo to tools, will generally be reimbursable through input tax credits.

In addition, compliance costs (what businesses spend, in time or in money, conforming with government requirements such as legislation or regulation) under the new streamlined HST will be significantly reduced, with one set of forms, one payment system and one point of contact for audits, appeals and taxpayer services.

In the short term, however, salons will have to prep themselves for possible customer confusion and revenue loss. Labrosse recommends placing a sign at the front desk that informs clients of the upcoming changes. He also adds that HST education “needs to be addressed on every salon level,” suggesting managers set time to educate stylists and front desk personnel.

In terms of updating your software, Dayna Elliott, head of education at Milano Software, says that front-line employees need not fret: “The HST means a simple change of just two or three fields. It’s a matter of changing the specific

salon52.ca

Feed YOUR

HEAD

NOURISH • CONDITION • PROTECT

hairlines

shelf life

Six new products your clients will love

1

down to business LCN’s new polish and gel, titled Business Grey, takes a fresh approach with a lighter grey hue perfect for every day.

Info: lcn.ca

2

5

2

5

a love affair Marrakesh Oil introduces a new fourproduct line titled Love that’s infused with hemp and argan oil to moisturize, strengthen and protect weak or damaged hair.

Info: firstladyproducts.com

3

38

4

that’s nuts Macadamia Natural Oil is a new line of products for dry, frizzy, damaged hair.

This line fuses the healing power of argan oil and the strengthening properties of macadamia nut oil to repair stressed-out tresses and promote hair growth.

Info: macadamiahair.com

green on CHI Organics introduces two new comb lines that distribute natural oils on the scalp, resulting in healthier hair. The Sandalwood combs are static-free with germkilling properties, while the Olive Nutrient Therapy combs contain olive oil for added moisture and wheat to protect hair from the environment.

Info: farouk.com

s a l o n > march 10

3

6

6

floating on air Aveda has added two new finishing products to its Light Elements line. The texturizing creme gives hair soft movement and light hold. Or, for finicky clients, the shaping wax gives pliable hold that can be styled and re-styled.

Info: aveda.com

bring on the heat Powered by the heatactivated Cera Heat Technology, these two new products from Matrix Biolage repair and strengthen hair by infusing each strand with ceramides and natural oils.

Info: matrix.com S

www • For more of the latest products check out salon52.ca

salon52.ca

Photo Chris tsintziras text Melissa brazier

1

4

BEFORE

AFTER

HAIR TAMING SYSTEM™

FUNCTIONAL KERATIN

PRO LINE

BEFORE

AFTER

Smooth. Radiant. Revitalized hair.

Introducing the Functional Keratin Hair Taming System.™ Functional Keratin Hair Taming System™ is an innovative process that transforms hair to a healthy looking, smooth, revitalized state. This revolutionary formula works on all types of hair leaving it soft, shiny and frizz-free up to 5 months. Unlike over-processed hydrolyzed keratin, our formula contains organic, bioactive keratin which means that the amino acids and proteins have not been melted down and destroyed through a harsh process known as hydrolization. These amino acids and proteins help protect your hair from damaging environmental effects to maintain a bouncy, healthy looking, radiant appearance.

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For more information or to schedule a visit from a Global Keratin Professional, please call us at: 1-888-636-0616.

spring report : what’s new

Photo courtesy costello tagliaPietra

runway, face, nails, hair, products, colour

salon52.ca

Salon Magazine brings you the latest trends.

From runway to product innovations, this is your total guide to what’s new this spring.

march 10 < s a l o n

41

spring report : runway Salon Magazine dishes on spring’s biggest trends as seen backstage at the New York, Milan and Paris S/S ‘10 runway shows

By Tina Christopoulos

Hair Trend: The Braidy Bunch When it comes to braids, runway hair gurus this season decided to break the mould. Whether tousled and uncombed or wet and messy, the classically feminine braid has been given an edge.

Alexander Wang

Shows:

Alexander Wang, NY; Roberto Cavalli, Milan; Miu Miu, Paris; JeanPaul Gaultier, Paris Roberto Cavalli

Miu Miu

Redken creative consultant

The Look: Up, down or plaited, the new romantic

looks have a more defined shape, with a grittier, slightly dishevelled feel. “This season one thing that stands out is the idea of ‘urban romance.’ It’s not romantic hair in the usual sense—shapes have an edge, and it’s worn up in a ponytail or a knot,” says Paulo.

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Photos courtesy redken

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Lead Hair: Guido Paulo,

The Look: To develop the imperfectly

t

Photos stePhanie seliskar, courtesy sebastian Professional

perfect Grecian-inspired updo, Dunkin added a touch of disarray to structured braids for a modern twist. The asymmetrical pattern and haphazard positioning of the braids represents unique individualism and carefree youth.

salon52.ca

Show:

Diego Binetti, NY Fashion Week

Lead Hair: Thomas Dunkin, Sebastian Professional stylist design team

march 10 < s a l o n

43

spring report : runway Hair Trend: Modern Goldilocks

Photos courtesy aveda

Whether Boho-inspired like at the John Patrick Organic show or carefully shaped à la Costello Tagliapietra, curls are soft, feminine and never appear too ”done” this season.

Show:

Lead Hair: Odile Gilbert for Aveda

The Look: The hair for the John Patrick Organic show is a modern, playful take on Bohemian chic.

Smooth and shiny on top with lots of volume in the front, hair is pulled back into a barrette, adding a girly touch that is further enhanced by soft curls falling below the cheekbone.

Show: Show:

Costello CostelloTagliapietra, Tagliapietra,NY NYFashion Fashion Week Week

Lead Lead Hair: Hair:

Thomas Thomas Dunkin, Dunkin, Sebastian SebastianProfessional Professionalstylist stylistdesign team design team

The Look:

t

Loosely inspired by the traditional rolls of the 40s and soft curls that rest just above the shoulder, Dunkin modernized this look by building added texture and shape. The vibe is soft and romantic, elegant yet playful.

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Photos stePhanie seliskar, courtesy sebastian Professional

John Patrick Organic, NY Fashion Week

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spring report : runway Hair Trend: Knotty Girls Ponies and knots were the style of choice during NY Fashion Week, offering the perfect complement to the textured fabrics and draping of spring’s fashion. So, next time your long-haired clients say they’re bored of the same old, take some inspiration from these anything-butboring dos.

Show:

Christian Siriano, NY Fashion Week

Lead Hair: Antoinette

Beenders, VP global creative director for Aveda

The Look:

This is a low, sleek ponytail adorned with a textured bouquet of waves—a play on smooth versus rough. Hair is sleek and groomed on each side of the head and through the ponytail, with a slightly rough, matte finish on top and elegant, textured waves pinned above the pony. The finished look is chic and contemporary with a bit of attitude. “This is an elegant alternative version of the ponytail—beautiful for evening,” says Beenders.

The Look:

This is a sculpted, voluminous chignon with a textured, 6 in. wide, sheer black ribbon woven through the hair in a spontaneous and organic way. “The collection is rich with different textures and materials, so Jason and I worked together to create a hair look that plays with this idea,” says Gilbert. “It has a very girly yet edgy feel.”

Photos courtesy aveda

Show:

Jason Wu, NY Fashion Week

Lead Hair: Odile Gilbert for Aveda Aveda Lead: Dennis Clendennen,

Dionysus, The Woodlands, Texas

t

To achieve this sumo-wrestler-meetssurfer look, Souleiman created a sleek, tight-to-the-head “Seven Samurai” ponytail. It’s sculpted on the top half with textured ends in a knot, while free-flowing, beachy waves are left down in back. Eva Scrivo created coloured extensions to add dimension and life and to help form the overall shape.

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s a l o n > march 10

Show:

Thakoon, NY Fashion Week

Lead Hair: Styling, Eugene

Souleiman, global creative director, care and styling, for Wella Professionals, Colour, Eva Scrivo and the Wella Professionals team

salon52.ca

Photos: Gerardo somoza courtesy Wella Professionals

The Look:

Grape Pop

Sugar High

Something Sweet

Light As Air

Heli-Yum

Flyin’ High

Four Leaf Clover

Re-Fresh MInt

Peachy Keen

High Hopes

Happy Go Lucky

Lemon Fizz

www.chinaglaze.com

Model is wearing “Grape Pop”

12 Luxurious New Crèmes

spring report : face Beauty Trend: The No-Makeup Makeup

bottom left: Stephanie SeliSkar, courteSy SebaStian profeSSional; top right: gerardo Somoza courteSy Wella profeSSionalS

Barely-there beauty reigned supreme on the spring runways, forecasting the season’s penchant toward naturally flawless complexions. But we’re not fooled; we know just how much work goes into creating this no-makeup makeup look. So start stocking up on those nude shades—you’ll need them!

Beauty Trend: Just Peachy t

Fruity-hued shades made their way on to more than one runway show for spring. A great alternative to showstopping red, coral is the colour du jour for statement-making makeup.

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salon52.ca

GET PINK. Pink Titanium

GET NANO. Nano Ceramic

™

Hot metallic pink colors and titanium mirror-smooth styling surfaces will get your clients’ attention and keep it.

®

Nano Ceramic® heat seals the cuticles to maximize natural shine and reduce frizz, no matter what the hair style or type.

Get Hot Tools

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call 1.800.487.8769 for more information or visit us online at: www.hottools.com Hot Tools®, Pink Titanium™ and Nano Ceramic® are trademarks of Helen of Troy Limited. ©2009 Helen of Troy. All rights reserved. (PR2418)

spring report : nails CND debuted its brand-new Colour & Effects collection on the spring 2010 catwalks, creating slightly grittier nails on a bed of typically soft hues, like pink and crème polishes. Trend expert Jan Arnold and leading nail stylists Roxanne Valinoti, Angi Wingle and Kristina Estabrooks collaborated with 20 designers for New York Fashion Week, and the results were, let’s say, effective.

model Photos courtesy cnd

The Trend: Special Effects

Two coats of pale pink Marshmallow Rose to accessorize preppypunk pieces.

Oilslick topped with asymmetrical sweeps of Gold Sparkle for a deconstructed, oxidized finish.

Desert Suede texturized with coffee grounds and sugar for a dense, sandy mani topped with Super Matte.

LCN Fine Nail Art Dust

The Trend: Customized Care All of our nail experts agree that customizing manicures and pedicures is where it’s at right now. Adding a simple detail can mean the difference between a returning client and a one-time deal.

Enhance any resin gel, colour gel or polish with these three new products from LCN available in Real Gold, Real Silver and Night Glow.

Sprinkle a little of this magic dust to customize your client’s digits.

Info: lcn.ca

Crush Minerals Wands Add a pinch of Crush Minerals to your nail resins or dip a clear polish applicator brush into the pigment to create bold colours or special effects. So, what’s hot this season? Stacey Johnston, president of Esthetics Plus, says, “This season I like colours inspired by Tuscany—warm metallics, vibrant greens and flirty violets.”

Info: crushminerals.ca

CinaPro Dippity Dots Available in this season’s hottest colours, these bright pink, yellow, blue and green nail decals can add a touch of fun to a standard mani or pedi. Info: cinapro.com

The Trend: Lovely Lavender “In our spring collection, Lilacism is a satiny smooth lilac. Lilac hasn’t been as popular until now, so it’s a very fresh-looking, exciting shade.”—Essie Weingarten, founder and president of Essie Cosmetics L-R: Color Club Uptown Girl, SpaRitual I Am The Light, China Glaze Light as Air and Essie Lilacism

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The Trend: Green Envy “Big, bold colour is the trend for spring. My particular favourite is deep greens because they look fresh and are such an uplifting change after a long, dark winter. One of my favourite polishes from the new Hong Kong collection, for example, is Jade is the New Black, because green is so modern right now.”—Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI artistic director and executive VP L-R: OPI Jade is the New Black, CHI Picnic in Central Park, SpaRitual Yes, I Can and Color Club Rebel Debutante

The Trend: Pumped-Up Pink “Punky, power pinks are my favourite colour group for spring. We’re releasing our limited-edition colour Sweet, a poppy pink that points to the future with confidence and is refreshing and bright to wear in warmer weather.”—Jan Arnold, CND co-founder L-R: CND Sweet, SpaRitual Hope Springs Eternal, Color Club I Believe in Amour and China Glaze Something Sweet

The Trend: O-range you happy?

“At the shows this season, the collections really reminded me of the pop art fashion explosion. This spring is all about pop art colours…Tart Deco, for example, is a creamy coral that is very wearable. These coral oranges are more widely accepted colours now, and coral is a softer way to wear orange.”—Essie Weingarten, founder and president of Essie Cosmetics L-R: China Glaze Peachy Keen, OPI Hot & Spicy, Essie Tart Deco and Color Club Oh Naturale

The Trend: True Blue “Everything from dark shades bordering on navy to pure sky blue are in style right now.

Fun, vivid colour is big this spring, and blue is wonderfully wearable and fresh. It also allows a woman to be a little more daring while looking completely on-trend.”—Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI artistic director and executive VP S L-R: OPI Absolutely Alice, CHI Midnight Rendezvous, OPI Suzi Says Feng Shui and China Glaze Flyin’ High salon52.ca

march 10 < s a l o n

51

spring report : hair

Collection: Quiet Volume Hair, art direction, concept: Jason Kearns, Kearns Davidson Salon, Toronto Makeup: David Govia, Judy Inc. Wardrobe: Joan Balder Photos: Richard Dubois

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salon52.ca

Speaks Volumes This season big hair is back in an even bigger way By Melissa Brazier

S

ophia Loren, Gisele Bündchen and, yes, even Pamela Lee in her Baywatch days all have one thing in common when it comes to their hair: volume.

Voluminous manes are nothing new—popular in the early 1900s, the 50s, the 80s and, here we are again, in 2010.

Janine Jarman, a Sebastian Professional design team member who worked exclusively with the new plumping line Volupt, says today it’s all about wearable, long-lasting volume with a soft and touchable feel. This was the same concept Jason Kearns, owner of Toronto’s Kearns Davidson Salon, applied to his latest collection, titled Quiet Volume (shown here). “What I’ve shown is a way of hair being dressed that works for everyday,” he says.

So, what’s the key to achieving big volume? First, start with a great cut. “If you’ve got hair that’s heavy, it’s very hard to get the volume to stay,” says Kearns, adding that in this particular scenario layering and texturizing throughout will create necessary body. Jarman cuts concave layers to give hair more oomph. She also lives by the credo “less is always more,” and says that old-school trick of gluing hair into place using a harsh spray is so passé. Go for products that give a more touchable, flexible hold.

The second step is to brush up on your dressing skills.

Jarman, for example, uses a backcomb-set technique in a lot of her work. “No teasing or ratting of the hair. Using a comb or brush, backcomb at the roots in small circular motions, pushing the hair forward and down. Set the hair with hot rollers or an iron and then clip it into place to allow it to cool into its shape,” she explains. Kearns adds that it’s essential to nail the basic techniques like the pin curl or working with a standard curling iron to create the soft volume that’s everywhere right now.

Lastly, a new styling tool we are seeing all over the place is the volumizing iron with ridged plates that create a very subtle, crimped look. Mario Grassa, owner of Woodbridge ON’s Hairspray ’N Gloss, uses the Hot Styler Root Volumizing Iron in the salon to give fine-haired clients a secret boost. “Pull the hair straight up and slice it across the front of the crown area. Then go right to the root, keeping the iron on a lower heat setting, and clamp and hold for a few seconds. This will make the hair pretty much stand up,” he explains, adding that the crimp is so fine, no one will even be able to see it. So whether it’s big waves or discreet body your clients are craving, be prepared—volume is here to stay. S

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march 10 < s a l o n

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spring report : hair

Collection: Flexibility Hair, art direction, concept: Jason Kearns, Kearns Davidson Salon, Toronto Products: Keratin Complex by Coppola Makeup: Giorgio Wardrobe: Bloomingdaleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Miami Photos: Glenn Heino

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Straight Up The latest in-salon straightening services

By Anupa Mistry

I

“

didn’t realize how many people with frizzy hair would do anything to change their texture,” says John Donato of Toronto’s Donato salons. Today, after incorporating Keratin Complex Smoothing Treatment by Copolla into his service menu for over two years, Donato knows that smoothing treatments are sellable services. Timothy Meerman, a stylist and instructor for Bio-Ionics Japanese Straightening system at Daddario Hair Co. in Toronto, agrees, adding that straightening services make life easier. “Most women don’t need to use a flatiron afterward,” he says. “They just wash and go.”

So are all services alike? Not quite. We got the scoop on two of the most popular services cropping up in salons.

Keratin treatments “Keratin-based smoothing treatments remove frizz and therefore 95 per cent of curl,” explains Donato. “They soften the hair and are perfect for those who want to retain some body and bounce.” Virtually all hair types—from unruly to relaxed hair—can benefit from Keratin Complex, says Artist Choice educator Loucas Matthew Reklitis. “There’s no risk of damage or overprocessing. It helps make hair manageable, smoother and healthier.”

Keratin smoothing works like this: After a consultation, a high-pH-level clarifying shampoo is applied to open up the hair shaft. Hair is then blow-dried without a brush, slathered in keratin, then capped and processed for about 30 minutes. Once the cap is removed, the keratin is blow-dried into the hair and then sealed into the cuticle with a flatiron. For 72 hours, the keratin has to harden into the hair, so clients are advised to wear it naturally until they return for a blow-out, where stylists can see the final result. Hair can be coloured and highlighted the day of application.

The effect lasts for three to five months, but can be washed out over a couple of weeks with a shampoo containing sodiumchloride if the client wishes. For results to last, clients should use a sodium-chloride-free shampoo as well as suggested shine products and ironing tools.

salon52.ca

Another keratin-based system, Global Keratin, uses non-hydrolyzed keratin.

According to its founder, Vanderlei Tibolla, other straightening treatments are made with hydrolyzed keratins. “This process destroys the long chains of proteins that make keratin an effective treatment for hair,” she says, adding that Global Keratin is the only company making hair care products with pure keratin that has not been denatured.

Japanese Straightening At Daddario, Meerman has been using BioIonic, a permanent chemical process made of natural volcanic minerals from Japan, for two years. “Bio-Ionic allows you to take the hair beyond regular straightness to the extreme,” he explains. “It’s dependent on the individual, but we don’t recommend Bio-Ionic for tight, curly hair since the roots will show. It’s perfect for women with thick, wavy hair who flatiron daily to remove volume.”

Before starting, Meerman checks for porosity to ensure hair can withstand the service. He then uses a clarifying shampoo and applies the product to the most resistant area first (i.e. mid-shaft), taking care to leave a quarter inch between product and scalp to avoid breakage, irritation and ultra-flat roots.

Processing time ranges from 20 to 45 minutes depending on the hair. Following a thorough 10-minute rinse, hair is blow-dried, brushed and flatironed (using ionic tools). The flatiron passes through paper-thin sections three times over to avoid springing back to a curl. A neutralizer is applied to help restore shine and smoothness, and rinsed out. After a final blow-dry and iron, the client is advised not to wash, tuck or tie up her hair for three days, allowing the chemical to air-neutralize. Two weeks must pass before colour or highlights can be applied.

It’s a meticulous process, but the results, lasting four to six months depending on curl pattern, are astonishing. “Hair is silky and moves unrealistically—in a good way,” says Meerman. Along with the recommended BioIonic products, Meerman suggests clients flatiron their roots to prolong the effect until they are ready for a touch-up. S

march 10 < s a l o n

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spring report : products

By Melissa Brazier

Goes Down Smooth

Pureology launches a line of smoothing products for damaged hair

i

n the never-ending battle against dried-out, damaged hair, Pureology offers up a new solution with the relaunch of the Super Smooth line. Specifically formulated for colour-treated hair, the line combines rich oils (shea butter, camellia and sesame) and Pureology’s Thermal Antifade Complex (sugar, heliogenol, UV filters, vitamins C and E and melanin). Totaling six products, this line’s three new additions include a nourishing hair masque, a daily strengthening treatment and a frizz control leave-in cream. Clients will also love the new fragrance, with sweet top notes of ylang ylang, raspberry and violet leaf.

www • Head to salon52.ca to check out a Q&A with Frank Barbosa, resident set stylist for Sex and the City 2 and a big fan of the new BC Hairtherapy line.

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Packing Punch

Schwarzkopf Professional relaunches the BC Hairtherapy line with a new superior formula

a

s a cosmetic ingredient, proteins pack a lot of power.

Now, after leaving their mark in the world of skin care, the latest in protein innovation comes to hair care, as part of the recently relaunched BC Hairtherapy line. All 18 products feature the patented Amino Cell Rebuild Technology, which closely mimics the makeup of protein in human hair as it’s formulated with all nine amino acids. This key ingredient goes beyond filling in the gaps and actually rebuilds the architecture of the hair.

With the relaunch of this line, SKP also adds to the BC family a Volume Boost range. Consisting of a shampoo and detangler, these two new products give hair body and fullness via the Bamboo Lift Complex. Also new to the line is the Moisture Kick Recharger and Hair & Scalp Deep Cleansing Pre-Shampoo. The former is a gel-to-mousse treatment that restores moisture and shine in just five minutes, while the latter is a two-to-three-minute pre-shampoo cleanser that exfoliates and tones oily scalps for a healthy clean balance. Plus the entire line’s packaging has been redesigned, colour coding five hair care categories— Repair Rescue, Color Save, Moisture Kick, Volume Boost and Hair & Scalp—making it even easier to prescribe at-home care to clients. S salon52.ca

Advertisement

From Backstage to the Runway Models strutting the runway help transform a designer’s vision into something covetable, and Rowenta Beauty does the same with a hairstylist’s handiwork.

As the Official Hair Tool Provider for Fashion Weeks across Canada, Rowenta tests its new-to-come tools with stylists working behind-the-scenes. Their feedback helps refine and redesign Rowenta’s luxury hair appliances. Already the official provider for garment care, thanks to its arsenal of irons and steamers, Rowenta’s tools will help the best of Canadian hair talent achieve runway-ready results.

refreshing to have a brand like “ It’sRowenta working directly with Canadian stylists to develop and test tools. You know you’ve created an amazing product when insiders have actually had their say in its design.

– Celebrity Hair Stylist

”

Brennen DeMelo, FORD Artists

spring report : colour

In with the New

L’Oréal Professionnel launches the highly anticipated Inoa colour line

By Morella Aguirre

I

ts name, Inoa, combines two concepts: innovation and no ammonia. It’s like “advertorial,” ”brunch,” or ”Brangelina”—a portmanteau word that blends the sounds and meanings of two terms to create a new one.

In fact, there are several attributes that make Inoa a very new kind of hair colour. Launched in late January of this year

by L’Oréal Professionnel, Inoa is not a traditional ammoniafree formula or demi-permanent colour. This premium service introduces a new method of delivering colour molecules to hair—a process that can lighten up to three levels and deliver permanent colour results without the need for ammonia.

Ironically, the major innovation behind Inoa—its Oil Delivery System (ODS)—is a concept similar to one of the most commonly recognized principles of chemistry: oil and water don’t mix. Yet, as simple as the concept behind the Oil Delivery System may appear to be, its implications are significant. No ammonia, no odour and increased comfort on the scalp are the most noticeable improvements and likely the ones that will first grab your clientele’s attention.

The Oil Delivery System As colourists out there know, hair colouring systems require an alkalizing agent in order to activate oxidation. Ammonia, recognizable by its pungent odour, is the most commonly used in traditional permanent colour. It works to stimulate the system’s developer and swell hair’s cuticle—thereby allowing colour formulas to penetrate into the cortex. A milder and odourless alkaline agent, monoethanol amine (MEA), is also widespread and found in non-lifting, demi-permanent colour systems and some ammonia-free permanent colour.

According to Colin Ford, director of education and events for L’Oréal Professionnel, conventional ammonia-free permanent systems contain four to five times more MEA than demipermanent lines. “Up until now, the biggest challenge [in formulating ammonia-free permanent colour] has been the

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levels of MEA,” says Ford. Yet, while still offering permanent colour results, Inoa uses the same levels of monoethanol amine as tone-on-tone colour.

The reason for this is the Oil Delivery System, which increases the efficiency of Inoa’s colorants and alkalizing agents.

A mineral-oil-based component, ODS coats strands of hair and—similarly to how oil repels water—repels Inoa’s colour and alkaline components and then forces them deep into the hair.

In classic systems, explains Ford, a few of these key elements always stay on the surface. However, with the repelling force of Inoa’s ODS, “the only place for colorants to go is in the hair.

It’s simple chemistry.”

Ford adds that this method of pushing colorants into the hair fibre helps boost colour longevity. One reason is simply because all colour and alkaline agents are pushed into the cortex by the Oil Delivery System. Next, going ammonia-free helps maintain the integrity of the cuticle. “Compared to classic colour, this process offers 45 per cent more protection to hair‘s natural layer,” says Ford. “Hair is also left 25 per cent smoother.”

Increased comfort for the client is also a huge bonus. Not only is the product completely free of any odour, but ODS technology also allows for dermal protecting agents to be added. In trials by L’Oréal Canada, says Ford, nine out of 10 clients said they felt as if they had nothing on their scalp when Inoa was applied and left to process.

Finally, Inoa’s unique formulation has allowed L’Oréal Professionnel to add five times the amount of its patented protective compound Ioène G, giving clients an extra boost of conditioning.

which needs to be kept separately until use. A 20 volume (6 per cent) developer, containing the Ioène G compound, is the next component. Concentrated 8-gram mini-tubes of colour and alkaline agent are the third and final part.

Precise mixing of these three elements is key to optimal performance, explains Ford. This is why Inoa is mixed using a special doser that eliminates the need for scales and freehand guesswork and allows colourists to easily pour the correct ratio of each product: 40 grams of Oleo Gel to 60 grams of developer.

Once gel and developer are mixed, they can be moved to a traditional colour bowl where two mini-tubes of colour are added. The result is a 116-gram colour formula every time. “One mini-tube of colour is a half application,” says Ford, noting that this helps create individualized colour results. A self-emulsifying mixture, Inoa has a creamy, yogurt-like consistency.

Colours and Coverage Currently available in 50 true-to-tone shades, Inoa can lighten hair up to three levels and cover grey and white hair. It is classified into nine colour families that include a range of both warm and cool tones. S

The Three-Part System While traditional colour requires two basic parts—a developer and a colour tube containing the colorant and alkaline agent— Inoa’s chemical properties require a three-part mixing system.

The “oil” of the ODS system is found in the Oleo Gel,

salon52.ca

www For a full look at Inoa’s colour categories, head to salon52.ca.

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Collection: Prairie Gold Hair: Kristy Nickerson, Chrome Spa Salon, Edmonton Photos: Kint Quon

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Sun Goddess Kristy Nickerson of Edmonton’s Chrome Spa Salon wins Schwarzkopf Essensity’s Inspired By Nature photo shoot

competition!

I

By Anupa Mistry

t was Kristy Nickerson’s first time competing when she entered Essensity’s Inspired by Nature photo contest, so landing a photo shoot for Salon Magazine was a pretty big deal.

“I really liked the idea of creating a powerful, organic hair image,” she explains. “Being from the Prairies and spending lots of time as a kid driving past all those fields made it easy for me to decide on wheat.” Her image features what she describes as “a goddess waking up with the sun” amidst bales of wheat.

After winning, Nickerson was given the chance to refine her image for the magazine shoot in Toronto with photographer Kint Quon. “The photoshoot in Toronto was amazing! Working with Kint Quon was awesome, he was very professional and easy to work with."

Nickerson adds that using Essensity is important because greener products benefit both humans and the environment. "People are becoming more aware of what they use and how it affects the environment," she says. S

Get inspired all over again!

The Essensity Inspired by Nature contest is back for another year! Here's your chance to see your eco hair vision come to life in the pages of Salon. Head to salon52.ca/contest for full entry details.

Winner Kristy Nickerson puts finishing touches on her model.

salon52.ca

L-R: Kristy Nickerson, model Daniela Gysler, Red Carpet Salon owner Mamak Tabatabaie, SKP marketing and education director Marianne Medeiros, hair assistant Natasha Brinston.

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Midnight Stage

Nomad Couture

Do you have a vision? Enter now!

Submit your vision for a chance to compete at Trend Vision nationals this fall! National winners receive an all-expenses paid trip to compete internationally in Paris.

See more details and enter for FREE at salon52.ca/contest.

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Culture Club Wella Professionals interpret the many faces of the modern woman

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Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

ella’s seemingly divergent inspirations— nature, culture, dreams and theatrics— converge for its Trend Vision 2010 couture collection. Global creative directors Josh Wood and Eugene Souleiman’s four trends—Nomad Couture, Nature’s Goddess, Techno Poetry and Midnight Stage—showcase the different sides of today’s woman. Structured cuts collide with unique textures, bright accents and multi-tonal highlights, while flowing layers play with natural richness, poetic textures and decadent styling. S

Techno Poetry

Techno Poetry

Nature’s Goddess Nature's Goddess

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Collection: Just Naked Hair: Sascha Haseloff & Ken Hong Colour: Agnes Westerman & Peter Wu Makeup: Angelique Niffeneger Wardrobe: Mario Krankl & Ioana Ecard Photos: Stephan Ziehen

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Barely There

s

Just Naked by Goldwell lets hair speak for itself Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

implicity is the focus of Goldwell’s latest collection, Just Naked.

Muted, fashion-forward styling keeps elegantly coiffed models looking neutral, allowing the emphasis to be on the hair. Working with an amped-up palette of natural colours—toffee brown, cedar red, golden blonde—helped the Goldwell team’s cause: the eye automatically drifts to the dreamy, texturized looks they’ve created for both short and long hair. S

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Collection: + Xposure Hair: Edwin Johnston Makeup: Sonia Leal-Serafim Wardrobe: Leila Bani Photos: Suzanne Teresa

Edwin Johnston talks about his C21 British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year collection

+Xposure

By Edwin Johnston as told to Melissa Brazier

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i

took inspiration from strong British haircutting and relaxed French styling to create a timeless contemporary collection. For me this set of looks began with researching images from the 1950s, 60s and 70s. I was particularly influenced by Richard Avedonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s book Evidence, the classic black and white photos of Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly.

I wanted to get as many looks out of the models as possible, so I shot eight models over a period of two days in three different locations. I tried to push new ideas and to be creative, but I also kept my shots and models looking pretty. I always strive for beauty and sensibility in my work, and the name of this collection is + Xposure, which is derived from the idea of having a positive image, like an old black and white photo. S

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PROFILE

Brand Power

Keeping busy with multiple projects means Brennen DeMelo is not your average stylist

By Anupa Mistry

t

PHOTOS COURTESY MARiO MiOTTi

“I

don’t want to be the next Vidal Sassoon, or the next Toni & Guy. I want to be the first Brennen DeMelo,” says the Torontobased stylist and salon owner who has already had a charmed path to success. “But I’m in no hurry to get to the top.”

DeMelo is likely patient because, at 29 years old, he’s quickly ascending the ranks. Already the owner of a laid back, effortlessly cool namesake salon in the heart of Toronto’s club district, DeMelo works regularly in the fashion industry, recently landed a magazine cover (Elle Canada, Sept. 2009) and is an artistic ambassador for two globally recognized corporations, L’Oréal Professionnel and Rowenta Beauty. “I’ve always wanted to do hair my own way,” he explains of the varied approach to honing his craft. “Since I was young, I’ve been more interested in a really cool, streetwise method to hairstyling.”

Born in Woodstock, ON, DeMelo—who grew up a selfproclaimed jock—was 14 when he decided to cut his own hair, discovering a “hidden talent” and impressing his hairstylist cousin. A friend was then called in for a haircut so DeMelo could prove himself again to the skeptic cousin. “Once I was finished, my friend turned to me and handed me five bucks. I thought ‘Wait a minute. I can make money doing this?’” From there, DeMelo—the son of a hard-working single mother—was sold on scissors.

After the usual hair school jaunt, DeMelo moved to Mississauga, ON and began working for a salon owner whom he helped open locations in Oakville and downtown Toronto. In 2003, he left his position at the downtown salon and rented a chair while bartending and promoting club events on the side. And in 2006, with enough funds saved and a solid understanding of the managerial side of launching a salon, DeMelo opened

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Š2010 All rights reserved. (BL692)

The Stylish Choice.

The Educated Choice.

Professional features inside, stylish design outside, beautiful results all the time.

the exclusive distributor of Mega HotÂŽ products.

Find out more at www.belsonproducts.com

PROFILE

a small one-chair shop in Toronto’s cool Queen West area.

This was the foundation for the current Brennen DeMelo Studio that moved to the city’s club district in 2008. The multi-chair salon also houses an event planning company and clothing store.

But DeMelo’s aesthetic and drive kept propelling him out from behind the chair. In 2001, he met L’Oréal Professionnel’s Colin Ford (currently director of education and events), who helped him score a gig working backstage at Toronto Fashion Week. DeMelo, who confesses his thing is “high-fashion, editorial hair,” was a success and even rode out the change of backstageduty hands from LP to current group L’Oréal Paris. This relationship also led to him becoming a portfolio artist in 2006 and quickly scaling the ranks to land his current title of ID artist, helping develop trends. In early 2009, he scored an LP photoshoot in New York City with famed photographer Raphael Mazzucco.

Hopefully one day, people from all over the world will be coming to my academy.

Mid-2009 also brought DeMelo another gig as artistic director for emerging tool manufacturer Rowenta Beauty.

“This opportunity was awesome because it’s great to be a part of something new and have creative input,” he explains. Once Rowenta officially launches in the US, he hopes to helm a continental artistic team.

In the end, the mix of in-salon, editorial and educational styling is helping him achieve his goal of inspiring people.

“I think that’s why I’ve taken on so many roles,” he says, “so I can share my knowledge. Hopefully one day, people from all over the world will be coming to my academy.” And in late 2010 the young stylist-businessman-DJ is adding educator to his exhaustive list of accomplishments. “We want to host a fine arts hair academy, which will not only cover cutting and colouring and all of the basics, but also life drawing, photo shoots, editorial. That’s what corporate courses tend to push stylists away from, but that’s the kind of stuff that keeps me inspired.” S

www • check out photos of DeMelo’s

Toronto salon at salon52.ca • peruse salon52.ca to see

DeMelo’s work at Toronto Fashion Week

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292 Caribbean Red

293 Tangerine Dream

294 Tropical Tulip

295 Tahitian Pink

NEW SPRING TREND Wow your clients with the new Exotica Trend Colour Collection from LCN. Colour Gels available with matching Polish, exciting & vibrant colours for everyone.

LCN.ca

esthetics

Future Fixings Need to update your esthetic products?

Look for labels listing these revolutionary ingredients

By Anupa Mistry

Apple stem cells No, its not an elixir made of crushed apple stems.

Apple stem cells are derived from the wrinkle-free fruits of the Swiss apple tree, which has been found to have a longer lifespan than other fruits and plants. The thinking is that stem cells can recreate the coveted property when applied to the skin. Researchers are investigating ways to

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improve their wrinkle-reducing and cell-boosting properties, so they may even be able to stimulate hair growth! One product that has already capitalized on this ingredient is Image Skincare’s Ageless The Max serum (shown bottom left).

probiotics We’ve all seen that yogurt commercial touting probiotics as the key to digestive balance, but did you know it has beneficial beauty properties in your skin care products as well? Similar to the way they work in your gut, probiotics are ”good bacteria” that can restore the skin’s equilibrium. Think about it this way: we know that stripping the skin of its natural properties through the use of harsh or unsuitable skincare products can fuel conditions (caused by problematic bacteria) such as acne and eczema. Antibiotics or antibacterial products can harm both the good and bad bacteria, so the use of probiotics helps the

Photo juPiterimages

T

hink back to the latest beauty product commercial you’ve seen—chances are it fêtes a new ingredient promising to stop aging, reduce dark circles or eradicate acne. Mass-market lines are quickly incorporating these new ingredients into their products. When you’re restocking your shelves, look for these extracts and elements to amp up your esthetics arsenal.

salon52.ca

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body top up what it needs to restore balance to the skin. This means increasing the natural defence for both problem and non-problem skin.

SirtuinS Proteins are well known for skin-improving properties, and the class of proteins called sirtuins lengthen the lifespan of cells when stimulated by certain skincare ingredients. Considered “guardians” of cells, sirtuins repair damage, and when a cell has to decide whether to live or die, these proteins keep it going. Basically, they have the power to turn back time on the aging clock. Aside from their cell-saving and longevityboosting properties, sirtuins also promote collagen growth, helping mask fine lines and wrinkles. Look out for the term pro-sirtuin—certain ingredients contained in these products will act as a catalyst for the protein. S

12/4/09

11:39 AM

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Colour Crown

Winners from the Vero K-Pak Color Competition are announced B y Va l e r i e L a m

Collection: Harlequin Hair: Jacob Rozenberg Makeup: Steven Carty Wardrobe: Daren Hartman Photos: Devin Karringtion

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e

ach year, Joico holds the Vero K-Pak Color Competition to recognize student and stylist achievements across the country. For two consecutive years, Jacob Rozenberg from The Lounge Hair Studio in Vancouver has taken home top nods in the stylist category.

From SoHo Coiffure, a boutique-style salon in Ste-Foy, Quebec, Anaïs Couvrette won in the student category this year.

Rozenberg speaks to the importance of the competition for stylists, “I am a very creative individual, as I think many hairstylists are. It is an art form, and the competition allows me to think outside the box.” Inspired by his model’s lips, Rozenberg crafted a heavy fringed cut that draws attention to his subject’s strong features. For his colour palette, he placed green, fuchsia and pink in a vertical pattern, creating a very bold and eyecatching look.

Fairly new to the industry, Couvrette was encouraged to enter the competition by her teacher, Brigitte Dufort, at Académie Renée Duval. Her model’s striking blue eyes fuelled her copper colour concept for a drastic fireand-ice contrast. S

www • Congrats to both winners!

View all the winning photos at salon52.ca.

salon52.ca

why Kevin?

KEVIN.MURPHY products are paraben- and sulphatefree, made from renewable and sustainable resources where ever possible and use pure and natural ingredients.

The hands-on education is interactive with a focus on executing the red carpet and editorial looks that your clients want. Learn tricks of the trade from worldrenowned session artists.

what’s new with Kevin?

where’s Kevin?

Hydrate-Me.Wash & Hydrate-Me.Rinse

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Kadaku Plum infused moisture delivery system.

Developed to seal in moisture and instantly smooth the surface using antioxidants and botanical extracts. Delivers a mirror-like shine and instantly hydrates and detangles.

March 12th: Appearing on CityLine to give a makeover March 14th: In Edmonton at the All About Beauty event March 16th: In Calgary at the Up Close & Personal event See Kevin demonstrating his skills in podcasts at fashionmagazine.com

Available at these distributors Ontario

kevinmurphy.com.au

Alberta, Saskatchewan & Manitoba

800-387-2962

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British Columbia

800-661-2707

interiors

Studio 237 becomes Canada’s first Matrix Biolage concept salon

By Melissa Brazier

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PHOTOS ROBERT HOUSE

Cool ConCept

ith the reopening of Studio 237 as a new Matrix Biolage concept salon, the white-on-white décor combined with vivacious pops of green aligns itself perfectly with the colour scheme synonymous with the brand.

Darek Wierzbicki, Matrix global guest artist of 14 years and the salon’s owner and interior designer, set out to create a warm yet highend environment with a few strategic decisions. First, he maintained the integrity of the 150-year-old building that houses his salon, keeping portions of the original brick wall, elegant crown moulding and laminate flooring intact. Next, he covered the space with various shades of white—crisp, pure white furniture and slightly off-white shelving—a palette that cleverly avoids a sterile and clinical feel. “The salon is crisp but at the same time serene and welcoming,” he says adding that it was a challenge working with almost all-white décor.

The salon has a very open concept, with 14 ft. ceilings, eight styling stations with floating mirrors lining each side of the walls, two

Name:

Studio 237

Grand re-opening:

Nov. 30

Info:

293 Front Street, Belleville, ON, 613.966.1349, studio237.com

Owner:

Darek Wierzbicki

Breakdown:

4000 sq. ft., eight stylist stations, two backwash sinks, one colour bar, eight esthetics rooms and seven staff

Hours of Operation:

Tuesday, Thursday and Friday: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Wednesday and Saturday: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

backwash sinks tucked away under the stairs and a Matrix colour bar built in collaboration with Belvedere in the back corner.

Up the stairs, a landing to the right overlooks the salon below and functions as a waiting area for colour clients. Wierzbicki calls this lounge area “VIP Biolage” and eventually plans to encase it in frosted glass for added privacy and provide computer access for busy clients on the go.

Continuing up another set of stairs to the top level, you will find the esthetics area, which offers a basic service menu of waxing, facials, massages, manicures and pedicures.

Besides the signature green and white design and the fact that it carries Matrix products exclusively, what truly makes this a “concept salon” is the ongoing education. Once a month a representative from Matrix Biolage will be coming to the salon to teach Wierzbicki and his staff everything from new products to selling strategies. So why did he decide to be the first salon of this kind in Canada? It’s simple. Wierzbicki notes his key to success is to create an ambience and culture in the salon. S

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SCOOP

Top Nods Taking home top honours at the ABA New Talent competitions in Regina and Moncton were Kaylyn Mack from Hair Razors and Rosie Abou-Khalil from Hair Design Centre.

Star Nail International has gathered master educators Vicki Peters, Elaine Watson and Iryna Giblett to lead an exclusive Nail Cruise for a unique, once-in-a-lifetime learning experience. The commercial cruise ship MSC Musica will depart from Venice, Italy, on May 2 and will sail around the Greeks isles, making stops at Bari, Santorini, Dubrovnik and more. Attendees will get to participate in 13 exclusive workshops in nail extensions, nail art and more.

Nailed It!

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Fairfield, California’s Anna Nelson was named the grand prize winner of CND’s Nail Tech Competition. Six hundred and fifty entrants took on the challenge of embodying the competition’s theme of Colours & Effects and sought to create a unique and well-executed look by incorporating at least one colour and one effect from CND’s new range. Nelson’s winning design was an animal print nail for which she used Oilslick, Ice Blue Shimmer, Violet Shimmer and Sapphire Sparkle.

The lucky Nelson will not only get to meet CND co-founder and style director Jan Arnold, but will also be able to shadow certified nail pros at NYC’s Fall Fashion Week in an all-expense-paid trip.

In early 2010, Unilever appointed a new president of global business to its Tigi brand. Philippe Hostaléry succeeds 24-year Tigi employee Thomas Reasonover, who is retiring.

top left photo jupiterimages

Cruisin’ BRIGHT

For the second year in a row Michael’s Hair Body Mind salon from Mississauga, ON, came out on top at the Eufora Stylist of the Year Awards (SOYA) on Nov.7. Presented by Eufora founder Don Bewley, the awards went to salon owner Lina Morra-Lomangina and stylists Kera Spencer and Sue Morra in the classic contemporary, avant garde and makeover stylist categories, respectively.

salon52.ca

New Kids

Partnering Up Chatters Stylist Connection, the second annual hair competition, collaborated with Redken Canada this time around to give stylists an opportunity to showcase their talent. Over the span of two days, 83 stylists from Chatters salons nationwide gathered in Red Deer, AB, to compete.

Shannon Spilsbury from Chatters Vernon and Jimmy Park from Chatters Chinook Centre took home top honours in the Stylist Choice and Stylist of the Year categories respectively.

on the Block

Fairly new to the Canadian market, Salerm Cosmetics has now established its first concept salon, called Institut Lumika, in Montreal, which held its grand opening

In early November, ESP Salon Sales took over a store called VIP Beauty in Kelowna, BC. This resulted in the company also adding Artego—a leading Italian manufacturer of hair colour—to its list of brands.

Super Sam

ABA Vancouver News The Allied Beauty Association (ABA) has decided not to hold a show in Vancouver in 2010 as a result of venue conflicts and the Winter Olympics—a decision, the organization states, that was not easily reached. But, not to fret, in 2011 the organizers have reserved space in the Vancouver Convention Centre West and promise to return bigger and better than ever.

salon52.ca

Sam Villa, well-known stylist and Redken’s education artistic director, has expanded his self-named line of educational videos, brushes, shears, thermal tools, combs and accessories into the Canadian market. At the time of print these products were carried by distributors Concept JP and Summit Salon.

on Dec. 1. Distributed in Quebec through H. Chalut Ltée and in Ontario through Pearlon, this manufacturer is looking to expand into more Canadian regions over the next year. For more info check out salerm.com.

West Coast Calling The Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia will be hosting Show Off, taking place March 28 at Vancouver’s Stanley Theatre. This celebration of hair will include interpretations by 12 BC-based salons, including The Mega Hair Family, Suki’s, Toni&Guy, Milica SalonSpa and more. Each participating salon will present a three-to five-minute choreographed segment. Plus a portion of the proceeds go to the charity Arts Club Theatre Company. Doors open at 6:00 p.m. and the show begins at 7:00 p.m. To order tickets, call 604.871.0222. S

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EVENTS

Best of the Brits

Photos courtesy salon InternatIonal

Sassoon Academy

Patrick Cameron

Salon International 09 hits London with a big bang Tigi Inspirational Youth

S

alon International's exhibition attracted hundreds of stylists from Oct. 17 to 19 to ExCeL in London's Docklands. At the Salon Live theatre, hairstylists from Tigi, Toni&Guy and Sassoon took the stage, plus over 250 exhibitors hosted demos and free live stage shows.

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Patrick Cameron

TK

Mark Leeson Tim Hartley Toni&Guy

Sassoon Academy

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EVENTS

Goldwell Color Zoom Over 2,000 people came to Las Vegasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s MGM Grand to attend the first annual Goldwell Color Zoom competition from Oct. 25 to 27.

Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Timothy Switzer, Mark Nordskov from Denmark and Tyker Ho from Taiwan took home top nods in the Partner, Elumen and Creative categories respectively.

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Wella Professionals International Trend Vision Awards On Nov. 15 at Wella's International Trend Vision Awards (ITVA) in Berlin, Germany, Intercoiffure Thoma of Germany won Gold for Young Talent and Zoo Hair Salon of Ireland won Gold for Color. These winning salons receive a prize package that includes comprehensive, tailor-made education and a trip to the 2010 ITVA event to be held in Paris. For this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trend Vision Awards details, check out page 26.

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Photos courtesy Wella Professionals

EVENTS

EVENTS

Photos courtesy AlternAtive hAir show

Alternative Hair Show The Alternative Hair Show took place on Oct. 18 at Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Royal Albert Hall. The Kaleidoscopethemed evening featured a dedication to the late Guy Mascolo and creative stage presentations by a myriad of teams including Tigi and Sassoon, and countless renowned stylists like Nicholas French and Robert Cromeans.

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Hairapalooza Toronto Over 200 hairstyling fanatics cheered 20 stylist and 20 student competitors on at Toronto Hairapalooza on Oct. 18. Plus Toronto's Redd Hair Studio showed off SKP's latest Essential Looks collection, honouring the brand's 111th birthday.

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EVENTS

Aveda Plugged In The final stop on Aveda's national Plugged In tour was Toronto on Nov. 9. The star attraction was Antoinette Beenders, VP creative for Aveda. Over 100 stylists packed into Collega's Toronto offices to learn from the iconic stylist and the rest of the Aveda creative team.

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PHOTOS COURTESY HAIRDRESSERES JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

British Hairdressing Awards The BHAs celebrated 25 years on Nov. 23 at the Grosvenor House Hotel in London with over 1,750 in attendance. Akin Konizi was crowned with the top title, and special honours went to Claire Rothstein and Tracey Devine, who were inducted into the Hall of Fame.

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89

EVENTS

Calgary ABA Calgary’s Exhibition & Stampede Roundup Centre hosted the annual ABA on Oct. 4 and 5.

The theme for this year’s show was “Survive?

Or Thrive?” and challenged visitors to take the future into their own hands. Wella Professionals, Redken, Matrix and more presented fall trends.

Philip Ferreira took home the top prize in the Ordinary to Extraordinary makeover challenge.

Evolve The Art of Hair Show Beauty Systems Group hosted an event from Oct. 18 to 19 where stylists took part in the Fashion Frenzy competition, Matrix, Rusk and Wahl presented at the Evolve The Art of Hair show and students attended hands-on workshops. Bailey Winter and Abby Zaitzow won in the Stylist and Student categories respectively.

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Be successful with a business diploma in

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Esthetician/Spa Management 2-Year, Accelerated Diploma (12 months) Learn the procedures and business aspects of spa management - including spa treatments and therapies, skin care, nutrition, retail buying and operations, sales and presentation strategies.

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Robert Lobetta at EvelineCharles

Marca College Saskatoon Grand Opening

On Nov. 9 Edmonton’s EvelineCharles Academy welcomed iconic stylist Robert Lobetta to talk about his vast experience over a 35-plus year career. The evening also lent itself to an open question-andanswer period, followed by a meet and greet with Lobetta.

The M.C. College group revealed a beautiful 9,000 square foot renovation of its Saskatoon location of Marca College on Oct. 6. Attendees celebrated the close to $1 million renovation alongside M.C. College Group president Joe Cairo, Pivot Point Canada president Dino Cairo and Saskatoon mayor Don Atchison.

MARCH 2010 ABA TORONTO February 28–March 1, 2010 Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building) Toronto, ON Info: abacanada.com IBS NEW YORK March 7–9, 2010 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY Info: ibsnewyork.com INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE (NEW YORK) March 7–9, 2010 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY Info: iecsc.com

education by design

IBS EDMONTON March 14–15, 2010 The Shaw Conference Centre Edmonton, AB Info: 780.454.3388 ABA MONTREAL March 14–15, 2010 Palais de Congrès Montreal, QC Info: abacanada.com CIABC SHOW OFF March 28, 2010 Stanley Theatre Vancouver, BC Info: ciabc.net AMERICA’S BEAUTY SHOW March 27–29, 2010 McCormick Place, Chicago, IL Info: americasbeautyshow.com

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Photos courtesy (left) evelinecharles (right) marca college

EVENTS

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Š 2010 Star Nail Canada

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Subscribe

to Salon Magazine ❏ 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (GST INCLUDED) ❏ Save $60.00 with 3 copies of every issue for you and your colleagues. 1 year subscription (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 (CANADIAN ORDERS ONLY, MUST BE TO SAME LOCATION. GST INCLUDED)

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Beauty For Haiti pg 22 Belson Products Mega Hot pg 69 ....................888-738-1212 ........................ www.belsonproducts.com China Glaze Up & Away pg 47 ..........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com CND Colour and Effects pg 23 .........................877-CND-NAIL ...................... www.cnd.com/colour35m Essie Spring 2010 Collection pg 27 .................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com Esthetics Plus pg 83 .........................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.epbeauty.ca Evolve Fill the Cup pg 33..................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.wfp.org First Lady Marrakesh Oil Love pg 37 ..............800-268-2242 ........................ www.firstladyproducts.com Gigi All Purpose Honee pg 99 ..........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com Global Keratin Functional Keratin pg 40 .........888-636-0616 ........................ www.globalkeratin.com Great Lengths pg 12-13 ....................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthscanada.com Hot Tools pg 49 .................................................800-487-8432 ........................ www.hottools.com Humber College The Business School pg 91 ................................................. www.business.humber.ca

______________________________________________ CARDHOLDER’S NAME

IBD Beauty Peace, Love & IBD pg 85...............800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com

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❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se194

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FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

LCN Exotica Trend Colour Collection pg 71.....800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca Micro-Pigmentation Centre pg 88 ....................888-737-6268 ........................ www.micropigmentationcentre.com Milano Software pg 87 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com/more Mixed Chicks pg 86 .......................................................................................... www.mixedchicks.net OPI Hong Kong Collection pg 35 ......................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Point pg 92 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca Premiere Orlando 2010 pg 95 ...........................800-335-7469 ........................ www.premiereorlandoshow.biz Pureology Super Smooth pg 4-5 .....................800-361-1861 x8717 ............. www.pureology.com Redken Style Connection pg 21 .......................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Rene Furterer HairSpa pg 25...........................877-441-2011 ........................ www.renefurterer.com Rowenta Beauty pg 47 ..................................................................................... www.rowentabeauty.ca Schwarzkopf BC Hairtherapy pg 14-15 ...........800-463-3081 ........................ www.letyourhairbceen.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity Contest pg 6-7 ...........800-463-3081 ........................ www.salon52.ca/contests SpaRitual Believe Collection pg 31..................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Star Nail Canada pg 93 .....................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com TIGI Catwalk pg 45 ...........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.catwalkbytigi.com

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0

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or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 19 Issue 03 salon52.ca

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LAST WORD

M

y sister sent me a newspaper clipping from England last year. The Times Saturday edition had done a piece on one of my hair heroes, Trevor Sorbie.

Trevor, an uprooted Scot, left school when he was 15 years old to work in his Dad’s southeast England barbershop. His artistry with hair quickly became apparent. Vidal Sassoon later spotted it and made Trevor his artistic director. In his illustrious career, Trevor has created style trends such as the wedge and the scrunch, won hairdressing awards too numerous to mention, jet-setted about the world, mentored countless top stylists and even received the MBE. He’s the only hairdresser in the UK who’s become so well known that his vocation was featured as a question on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire and The Weakest Link.

But nowadays Trevor has a new hairstyling direction, and it doesn’t earn him a penny.

It all started when Trevor’s sister-in-law, Jackie, had to undergo chemotherapy for bone cancer. When her hair fell out and she got a wig, Trevor offered to cut it and make it look more natural. Trevor transformed her wig from something that resembled a hat into something that looked like real hair, and Jackie cried. She was usually a tough woman, so her reaction brought home to Trevor just how devastating it is for women to lose their hair.

Sadly, Jackie died, but Trevor gave her life a legacy when he founded My New Hair. His pioneering charity supports a national network of independent UK salons and hair professionals who offer a caring and respectful wig-styling service for people suffering from medical hairloss. My New Hair is the first UK charity to focus exclusively on providing education, training and support in this field. Trevor calls his wig-personalization service “psychological medicine” and the “missing link” in medical treatment. And it’s free.

As Trevor puts it, “How can patients feel positive and strong when their personal self-image has been rocked to the core by baldness?

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Giving women back their hair—hair that looks natural, attractive and feminine—gives them back a little confidence to face the world in their darkest hour.”

And in case you think this kind of caring only exists somewhere else, let me introduce you to Miss Rose, a Langley, BC hairdresser.

Since graduating from beauty school in Regina in 1958 as a teenager, Rose has tended to thousands of heads of hair, as well as teaching hairdressing. But a trip to Toronto to visit her son in 2004 changed her focus.

Rose’s son is one of Canada's top wig masters, who works with some major Hollywood stars. Rose wondered to herself why ordinary people can’t get great-looking wigs. Then she remembered her sister’s distress when she lost her hair during cancer treatment.

So now Miss Rose brings smiles to cancer patients with her personalized, lifelike wigs. In between sets and cuts, she sits down with boxes of hair to craft wigs, tiny strand by tiny strand. Her wigs take about a month to make and start at $250. Consultations, preparation, loving hugs and any adjustments the wig needs are free.

Thus far, 70 per cent of Rose’s hair donations come from children. If you’d like to help with hair donations, go to The House of Miss Rose on Facebook, and click on Discussions. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

salon52.ca

TOP PHOTO JUPITERIMAGES STEINBERG PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

Hairdressing with HEART

All Aboard!

CALLING ALL STYLISTS…

Join Joico and ISO on the 2010 EDUCATION ON VACATION Caribbean Cruise event: a 7-day tropical adventure featuring the most dynamic, industry-leading education in the professional business!* Visit COZUMEL, GRAND CAYMAN and OCHO RIOS and learn the newest techniques from internationally-renowned Joico and ISO artists.

Cruise sets sail October 9-16, 2010 from Miami, Florida.

LEARN THE J-SYSTEM:

a comprehensive cutting & coloring program based on three timeless principals that result in an unlimited palette of creative options for any level of stylist. J-SYSTEM empowers the artist with the confidence and ability to blend artistry, technical precision and suitability in perfect harmony and unleash the key to every artist’s success.

FEATURING

Damien Carney, International Creative Director for Joico Shannon Simmonds, 2007 Canadian Colourist of the Year Shayne Harrison, Joico Artist

THE I.SYSTEM:

A METHODOLOGY OF DESIGN

i.consult to create vision, i.cut to create shape, i.texture to create structure, i.color to create focus, i.finish to create personality: The Iso Team of Designers will explore the art of cutting and coloring textured hair or being inspired to begin adding texture to your body of work within your salon or your photo shoots. Iso Designers are the master architects of understanding how best to bring out your best.

FEATURING

Addam Moreno & Darby Shields International Creative Directors for ISO & i.Color

Chantal Pilon ISO International Artist

BUY YOUR TICKET TODAY!

Contact your local Joico or ISO distributor or call Piidea Canada at 1-800-267-4676 ext. 227 for more information.

Deadline to buy: June 26, 2010!

*“Education on Vacation” is an annual program hosted by the Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia.

This year’s program is brought to you in partnership with Expedia Cruise Ship Centers and Carnival Cruiselines and sponsored by multiple salon professional product manufacturers. Joico and ISO are the exclusive professional hair care sponsors for the 2010 event. To participate in special Joico/ISO promotions and pricing, salons must book their trip through Piidea Canada. For information and registration forms contact Maria Martins via email at mmartins@piidea.com or telephone at 1 (800) 267-4676 ext.

227. Any salon professionals in the Nail and Skin category not wishing to participate in the Joico and ISO education can purchase their ticket by visiting www.ciabc.net.