Salon Magazine, March 2011

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

Get Creative Building a collection, live competitions and couture style from Paris

march 11 $5 salon52.ca

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CHARLIE PRI0CE Denver, USA Awarded International Hairstylist of the Year in 2007

GUN BRITT ZELLER Copenhagen, Denmark Stars’ hairstylist and winner of a Global Salon Business Award in 2004

X-PRESION Madrid, Spain Acknowledged by the International Association of Professional Hairdressing Magazines (AIPP) in 2010 with the Grand Trophy as the Best Hair Stylist of the Year

Style Masters Being a hairdresser means being an artist. With Style Masters, Revlon Professional wants to acknowledge the prestige that professional hairdressers deserve. It is a goal that is shared by the best stylists in the world, who have joined us to create a new range of

THE COLOMER GROUP

ROBERT MASCIAVE London, UK Fellow with honours from the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and elected Best Individual UK Salon of the Year in 2009 by the Hairdressing British Association

DAVID RACCUGLIA Chicago, USA Elected in 2008 as one of the 50 most influential hairstylists in American hairdressing history

professional styling products “made by hairstylists for hairstylists”.

Definitive tools to develop creative talent in the same way that the Style Master Team did at an unprecedented styling session.

The demonstration that being a hairstylist means being a hair artist.

FUMIO KAWASHIMA Tokyo, Japan

The most famous Japanese hairstylist and creator of the Box Bob

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Bruno marc Giamattei marc Antoni hair Salon, u.K.

mArCh.11 43

SPECIAL ComPEtItIon SECtIon

44

A Shot At SuCCESS

48

Industry professionals offer an inside look at how to produce competition-worthy photo-based hair collections

GoInG LIvE

Staying mentally focused during live hair competitions

50

FrIEndLy ComPEtItIon Winning isn’t everything, but competing can sharpen your skills and further your career

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60

thE WorLd’S A StAGE

A must-attend on the international circuit, Trend Vision 2011 celebrates a cornucopia of sophisticated couture styles

the business of beauty and style

Get Creative Building a collection, live competitions and couture style from Paris

nAturE LovEr

Emily Beck from Freedom Hair in P.E.I. wins Schwarzkopf Essensity’s Inspired by Nature photo shoot and competition

PoWEr And StyLE Goldwell's Play Strong collection debuted in Paris at the Color Zoom Challenge

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hAIr CoLLECtIonS

Looks from Vivienne Mackinder, Bruno Marc Giamattei, Chad Seale, Cream and Axxess Hair Design

s a l o n > march 11

magazine

FEAturES

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l salon

march 11 $5 salon52.ca

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1/28/11 3:27:27 PM

regional winners, Wales & South West hairdresser of the year, British hairdressing Awards Collection: Gorgeous hair: Will Eagles and Scott Smurthwaite, Cream makeup: victoria Baron Styling: Shyla hassan Photo: Andrew o’toole

salon52.ca

DISCOVER THE INSPIRING WORLD OF REDKEN The Redken world is an amazing place to be. Our pillars of Education, Science, Inspiration, Fashion and Business Development support salons with the goal of helping them learn better, earn better and live a better life.

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AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Welcome spring with punchy pastel shades that will instantly get noticed

57

Profile: Véronique Beaupré

REGULARS 22 EDITOR’S LETTER 24 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 26 SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

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Vivienne Mackinder

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76 80

HAIRLINES

NAILS Clients are crazy about the growing trend in texturized nail innovations.

Plus, new nail launches!

ESTHETICS Lash services are gaining momentum as a way to boost business

Style Masters Unveiled p. 29; Shape your creations with the latest stronghold hairsprays p. 30; New additions come to Schwarzkopf’s BC Hairtherapy line p.30; Aloxxi reinvents its colour line p. 30; Battle winter hair woes with nutrient-rich new products p. 32; KeraStraight brings new innovation to Brazilian straightening treatments p.32; Wahl goes pro with new clippers p.34; Toronto ABA Show highlights p.34; Clearing the air on straightening solutions p.36; Shelf Life offers up six new products your clients will love p.38

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INTERIORS

84 87

SCOOP

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PROFILE

98

74

COLOUR

Montreal hairstylist Véronique Beaupré talks about passion and success

Hair legend John Donato creates a blend of luxury and boutique style at Donato salon + spa located at Toronto’s prestigious Shops at Don Mills

EVENTS Coverage of Salon International, Alternative Hair Show, Calgary ABA, Hairapalooza and more

LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

New colour technology has added steps and rules that stylists need to embrace to achieve vibrant end results

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EDITOR’S LETTER

’ve made no secret that one of my favourite things about the hairstyling industry is competition. I’ve had the pleasure of attending both live and photo-based hair competitions over the past few months and I’m always in awe of the passion and creativity that goes into the work.

Competing is a huge asset to the career of a hairstylist. While winning creates media buzz, draws more clients and can be a huge boost to the ego, the act of competing itself is an invaluable tool for building your skills and becoming better at what you love to do best.

We’re looking at every angle of competition this month.

On p.44, we spoke to high-profile industry professionals who gave the inside scoop on how to produce competition-worthy, photo-based hair collections. Is the stage more your place?

Read about keeping your nerves in check during live hair competitions on p.48. This issue is packed with first-hand stories and experiences related to competing—you’re sure to find some inspiration amongst these pages!

This is also my last issue as the editor of Salon Magazine. It has been an incredible year, and I’ve certainly enjoyed the ride.

The beauty industry is such a fabulous place to be in this day and age, I plan on sticking close to it and reading about the latest hair trends, innovations and news in Salon and salon52.ca.

Most of all, I’ve loved connecting with you, the reader, and hearing about how you got your start in the industry, built your business and continue to shoot for the stars!

Emily Gravelle Editor

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s a l o n > march 11

PHOTO BABAK, HAIR AND MAKEUP CHERYL GUSHUE

I

Going for the Win

salon52.ca

SAY GOOD-BYE 760.599.2900 800.833.NAIL cnd.com cnd.com/shellacSM ©2009 Creative Nail ©2011 Creative Nail Design, Inc.Design, Inc.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 20 issue 3

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Emily Gravelle > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | emily@beautynet.com group Art dirECtor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com Editor-in-ChiEf (frEnCh)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com AssoCiAtE Editor

Noelle Stapinsky > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | noelle@beautynet.com stAff writEr

Marlene Rego > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | marlene@beautynet.com dEsignEr

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

Just the Facts, please

Copy Editor

Jennifer D. Foster Contributors

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright

W

pubLishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com dirECtor of sALEs & businEss dEvELopMEnt

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com sEnior ACCounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@beautynet.com sALEs AssoCiAtE

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@beautynet.com produCtion MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com opErAtions MAnAgEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com CirCuLAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca finAnCE

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com businEss AdMinistrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com ChAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com viCE-prEsidEnt & wEst CoAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

subsCription rAtEs for CAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USd A ddrE ss Ch A n gEs Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

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PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada sAL on MAg AZ in E HAiR BiLL ROWLEy PHOTO BABAK

ho knew the beauty industry could be so controversial?

In the past few months it seems we've been under siege with negative press about formaldehyde in keratinbased hair smoothing treatments, the UV lights used to cure gel-based manicures possibly causing cancer and frightening warnings about unsanitary manis and pedis.

When keratin hair treatments hit the news we got our share of calls and emails from concerned hairstylists. And understandably so…imagine offering a service that could be deemed dangerous to clients and staff. No one wants to be put in that situation.

This is a difficult topic to address as it isn’t easy wading through the sea of technical information—after all, we’re not chemists.

But before jumping on the mass media bandwagon, I feel it’s incumbent upon us to get the facts and understand them in order to make informed decisions.

First we must understand the difference between advisories and public warnings.

Health Canada defines an advisory as “a way to inform the public of possible serious health hazards and enable Canadians to make informed decisions concerning the continued use of consumer and marketed products.” Advisories are issued to the media through the Canada News Wire and posted on the Health Canada website. Public warnings, on the other hand, are “used in the most urgent situations when there is a high probability that the use of, or exposure to, a product will cause death or other serious health effects.” Warnings are sent through the exact same channel as advisories.

Last December there was an advisory issued for the hair-smoothing treatments.

Manufacturers and distributors are also questioning Health Canada’s testing methods [see p.36, “Clearing the Air on Straightening Solutions”].

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not taking any sides. I just think it’s important we are open-minded, have all the facts and get all sides of the story. Maybe I’m a bit of a protectionist, but I hate to see our industry be maligned.

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

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Silver

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recy

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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printed in C A N A d A

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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salon52.ca what’s on

march 11

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

s52 collections > VIVIENNE MACKINDER > CHAD SEALE > CREAM > BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI > AXXESS HAIR DESIGN

s52 job board Craving a career change in 2011? Or want to post a job? Browse our job board for tons of beauty industry opportunities! And remember, posting on the job board is entirely free.

Straight to your inbox!

See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign-up today.

WHAT’S THE MOST DIFFICULT CUT TO EXECUTE? Kristen Lake: “Anything other than a buzz cut with Asian hair.”

Phillip Elliott: “One length—easiest to conceive but hardest to perfect.”

Xristina Kolovos: “Classic graduation without texture a.k.a. the “Peter Pan” cut. Working this on coarse, frizzy hair is a killer!”

talk to us!

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

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salon52.ca

HAIR: CHAD SEALE FOR TAYLOR ANDREWS, MAKEUP: SHERRI CURTIS STYLING: MICHELLE BOUCHER, PHOTO: JAKE GARN

you told us:

KEVIN.MURPHY

www.kevinmurphy.com.au Born from the same philosophy as skin care and inspired by nature’s best, the KEVIN.MURPHY range is an indulgence of runway looks and natural aromatherapy catered for every hair type.

The products are made from renewable and sustainable resources whenever possible, using pure essential oils, plant extracts and natural antioxidants.

KEVIN.MURPHY education is founded on the principles of styling hair with a focus on achieving editorial looks that your customers request.

Learn tricks of the trade from world-renowned session artists.

All KEVIN.MURPHY hair products are sulphate and paraben free.

what’s NEW with kevin?

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Have a smoother volume that looks well bred and polished.

BODY.BUILDER is a product that you can layer onto the hair to create smooth big shapes.

• EDMONTON NORTHLANDS EXPO CENTRE ALL ABOUT BEAUTY. Mar 6-7 • WINNIPEG ABA SHOW. Apr 10-11 • See Kevin demonstrating his skills on CityLine and in podcasts at fashionmagazine.com

Photos from Kevin’s first ever Canadian educational event at Blue Mountain in September 2010 Available at these distributors Ontario & Maritimes

800-387-2962 Now Distributing in the Maritimes!

Alberta, Saskatchewan & Manitoba

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hairlines

news

Style Masters Unveiled A dream team of international hair gurus collaborate to create a professional product line

stylist Photo courtesy of revlon Professional

Be a Style Master The Style Masters project, created to empower hairstylists, is hosting a Canadian competition, open to all stylists who carry the Style Masters line.

To participate, stylists must create three looks with the products, each using the same model with the same cut.

Entrants can submit up to three series of three photos.

Interested? Ask your Revlon sales rep for an application form and submit your entry by April 4, 2011. The Canadian winner will receive a Style Masters award and a trip to the Style Masters event in Amsterdam.

To find out more about the competition, head online to salon52.ca/contest.

salon52.ca

W

ith the goal to create a product line designed by hairstylists for hairstylists, Revlon Professional’s Style Masters team is made up of seven internationally renowned, award-winning stylists—Charlie Price of the United States, GunBritt Zeller from Denmark, Fumio Kawashima of Japan, David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew, Robert Masciave of the United Kingdom and X-presion of Spain. This super group joined hair industry icon Robert Lobetta, the artistic director of the team, in developing this new line.

There are 17 different products included in the Style Masters line, designed for every stage of styling. Here is a breakdown of the new line.

Before you start: Pre Tools Defender thermal protection spray and a Pre Work Detangler defrizzing balm. Working Tools: Amplifier fiber mousse, Elevator 360° volumizing spray and Reset Control straightening balm. Look Definers: Orbital Curls Designer curl activator, MattnificTexturizer matte molding gel, Vinylist Look creator strong hold gel and Hairtistic multi-use fluid wax. The Jars: Draft modeling clay strong hold wax, Laser Gum Elastic shine definer flexible wax, Hardwire Sculpting fiber and Solid Wax structuring paste. Finishing sprays: Glamourama Finisher ultra shine spray, Flashlight soft hold spray, Modular variable hold spray and Photo Finisher strong hold spray.

march 11 < s a l o n

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hairlines

news

2

3

4

Hold Steady Shape your creations with these long-lasting hairsprays 1. Unite GO365

This 3-in-1 spray sports a turning nozzle for complete control over strength: soft, medium or strong hold.

Info: unitehair.com

2. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Infinium Lumiere

Adds tons of shine with mother of pearl extract, plus the formula brushes clean for long-lasting, residue-free looks.

Info: lorealprofessionnel.com

3. Redken Fashion Work 12

Now infused with antioxidants, this fine-mist spray lifts roots for 24 hours and dries matte for optimal control of texture and volume.

Info: redken.ca

4. Farouk Royal Treatment Ultimate Control

Works on both damp and dry hair, with a dual action formula containing white truffle and pearl complex.

Info: farouk.com

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s a l o n > march 11

Rescue Me

Fans of Schwarzkopf’s BC Hairtherapy line will love these new additions to its family of hair repairing products. The Smooth Shine range tackles unruly hair with three products (all colour-coded in purple) that restore sheen and banish frizz for 24 hours. Curl Bounce helps wavy-haired clients embrace their natural locks with amino cell technology to repair the hair’s internal structure, while the curl-memory-complex puts moisture back into dull strands and reshapes curls so they spring back.

Aloxxi reinvents its colour line Inspired by Italian fashion and colour technology, the company has rebranded its range of colours Would you rather your hair colour be a “7P” or a “Roman Goddess”? The idea behind Aloxxi’s rebranding is to add personality to its range so clients can walk away from an appointment relating to their new look. The company has renamed its colour products and added 13 new chroma colours and four new tones in modern, redesigned packaging. The chroma permanent crème colour is a low-ammonia formula that creates vibrant, multi-dimensional colour with superior grey coverage. Plus, the anti-aging botanical base leaves hair soft and shiny for rich, long-lasting colour. Aloxxi’s new tones are demi-permanent and work to enhance and intensify hues.

Use them to refresh permanent colour, tone pre-lightened hair, add lowlights or blend grey. The packaging also features a fail-proof system to identify shades and a visual swatch reference guide.

salon52.ca

model photo courtesy of schwarzkopf professional essential looks modern times collection 2010

1

hairlines

news news

The Cold War From hat head and static electricity to frizzies and fly-aways, the harsh effects of winter weather can wreak havoc on even the most resilient locks. During this frustrating season, fight back against dryness and unmanageable hair by using moisture- and nutrient-rich products to improve hair health

ABBA’s moisture shampoo and conditioner hydrates and repairs the moisture balance of the hair and scalp. The shampoo uses natural extracts such as Yucca and geranium, and the conditioner is made with wild mint, geranium and sage.

ABBA’s Pure Thermal Protect with sage and aloe vera provides heat protection from flat irons and blow dryers, and its mica crystal- and black pepper-infused Pure Shine Spray will enhance shine.

Strong and Healthy

Fight the Frizz

Onesta’s Volumizing Shampoo uses certified organic rosemary and lemongrass extracts to add volume and bring lifeless hair back from the dead.

It also reduces static and increases shine. Onesta’s Quench leave-in conditioner smoothes and controls frizz, while adding a layer of protection to the hair surface with golden seal, linden and orchid extracts, and omega three and six.

Alcove Leave-In Treatment has nourishing microcapsules made with flaxseed and sunflower seed oil extracts—both rich in vitamin A and K—as well as zinc, potassium and omegas 3 and 6. The Restructuring Mask repairs and hydrates the hair with ingredients such as flaxseed and avocado oil extracts, magnesium and omega-3 fatty acids. And the Alcove Serum reduces frizzies and increases shine.

A New Way To Get Straight How KeraStraight KS Complex is revolutionizing the straightening industry with its low pH protein formula

A

Brazilian straightening treatment allows beauty professionals to give clients that sleek look they love without any aldehydes.

Jez Barnett, creator of KeraStraight, emphasizes that the formula uses a low pH protein, which contains no formaldehyde or formaldehyde alternatives in the ingredients or subsequent vapour. As a protein-based treatment, the product encourages keratin rebuilding and radiant shine on even the

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most porous and damaged hair and will last up to four months, according to Barnett.

The low pH protein is a replacement for the aldehydes that penetrate deeply into the hair’s cortex to strengthen from within.

Clients can also wash their hair the same day of application, eliminating the two- to three-day waiting period after receiving a keratin treatment. KeraStraight has carried out intensive research and development at its Brazilian-based laboratories to ensure it

continues to make technological advances in the straightening treatment category.

“KeraStraight has been created by a hairstylist for hairstylists. I wanted to address the concerns regarding the time between application and first shampoo, and the need to not touch the hair, tie, pin or clip it back in the first few days,” says Barnett.

Distributed in Canada by Backstage Commerce.

Info: www.kerastraight.ca

model photo: hair: vicky turner, goldsworthy’s, makeup: katie aldridge styling: bernard connolly, photo: desmond murray

Moisture Lockdown

salon52.ca

new 3-IN-1 shampoo, conditioner and body wash by American Crew FOR INQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980

hairlines

toolbox

Buzzworthy

Four optional blades mean you can rotate between different styles: standard, fine, texturizing and razor cut. Plus, the quick release option means the blade can be easily removed for cleaning.

The LED light eliminates guesswork by letting you know when to recharge and oil the clipper blade.

Wahl goes pro with new clippers that help you take advantage of the tricks of the trade

A low-noise, chip-controlled motor maintains constant power regardless of the battery level or hair type.

The travel size means you can get an ultra-close cut on the go. The high-quality stainless steel blade can be set for a length of 0.4 millimetres.

The lithium ion battery reaches full power in just 45 minutes, but lasts for 75 minutes and won’t drain the battery when it’s not being used.

The lithium ion battery features specialty cells that offer a higher current for more power and torque.

hairlines

news

Toronto ABA Show Highlights

T

he Allied Beauty Association’s (ABA) Toronto show, Canada’s largest hair show, features the renowned Tabatha Coffey, star of the hit TV series Tabatha’s Salon Takeover. Famous for her no-nonsense approach to getting struggling salons back on their feet, Coffey will share her

industry expertise on the main stage Sunday, March 27 (11 a.m. and 4 p.m.) and Monday, March 28 (4 p.m.). photo courtesy of bravo

This year’s show, held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, also highlights the newest hair-cutting techniques, ideas and trends over the span of two jam-packed days. Stylists from across the country have requested a larger focus on education, and the ABA’s delivering by featuring 14 educational theatres with live demonstrations from top business leaders. Industry pros can browse more than 400 booths, shop for great beauty finds, compete or watch the competitions live.

For more information on the show and a guide to the hottest spots around town, head online to salon52.ca.

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salon52.ca

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hairlines

business business

Clearing the Air on Straightening Solutions In December 2010, Health Canada issued an advisory concerning the unsafe levels of formaldehyde in 10 hair-straightening treatments, causing a ripple of panic in the industry. However, some manufacturers and suppliers are now questioning the government agency’s testing methods and are arguing that it’s blurring the lines between chemical ingredients.

Salon Magazine investigated to bring you the viewpoint from both industry and government.

The Allied Beauty Association (ABA), which represents more than 90 per cent of Canada’s professional beauty industry, is challenging the government’s testing methodology.

Marc Speir, executive director of the ABA, says, “If we felt for one second that these products were in any way dangerous we would want them taken off the market right away.”

The ABA is concerned that Health Canada is testing these products based on the liquid formula and not on air quality tests, which would give a better indication of formaldehyde content, since it’s a gas not a liquid.

Doug Schoon, a third-party scientific regulatory consultant out of California agrees. He explains that hair-smoothing products contain an ingredient known as methylene glycol, which contains a minute percentage of formaldehyde. When heat is applied, only trace amounts of formaldehyde gas are emitted. “What they’re [government] saying is that formaldehyde is the same thing as methylene glycol, but they’re two completely different chemicals,” says Schoon.

The ABA contends that Health Canada’s methods are outdated. Schoon agrees and adds that the government agency’s testing methods don’t apply to water-based cosmetic products.

“The data we’ve received from third-party chemists indicate that none of these hair-smoothing products are releasing formaldehyde in any amounts above Health Canada regulations,” says Speir. He also wants to know why the advisory is only for certain products and not for entire product lines that have the same formulation. For example, Global Keratin’s strawberry-scented taming system is on the advisory list, but not the chocolate or acia scents.

At press time, the ABA had requested more clarification on the testing methods being used, but hadn’t receive a response from Health Canada.

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VS

Health Canada In June 2010, Health Canada received an incident report involving a Brazilian Blowout solution from a British Columbia hair salon. Gary Holub, media relations officer for Health Canada, said the agency investigated and found that the product may not have been used according to the directions. It wasn’t until more complaints about the Brazilian Blowout product were sent to Health Canada that the agency began testing it and released a health advisory in October. This was followed by complaints about other hair-smoothing products.

According to government regulations, formaldehyde is permitted as a preservative in cosmetics at levels no more than 0.2 per cent. To analyze the products, Health Canada says it used commercially available test strips to provide a general estimate of the amount of formaldehyde and then it used another method based on a technique called High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) to determine how much formaldehyde was in the products. HPLC is a technique used to separate compounds to identify and quantify components of a mixture.

Although the agency says that these tests do not require any special heating of the products, it does acknowledge that the formaldehyde gas is only released during the blow-drying and flat-ironing stages of the treatments.

Regarding the argument that methylene glycol and formaldehyde are two different chemicals, Health Canada says the terms are often used interchangeably in toxicity studies pertaining to formaldehyde.

To explain why only some products from specific lines are on the advisory and not others, Health Canada says that it only tests the products for which the department receives complaints, and the agency is working with the responsible companies to notify them of the test results.

salon52.ca

text: noelle stapinsky

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Shooting for the Stars

Hairapalooza ToronTo, ocTober 2010

Competition Ready t

From photo-based to live, Salon Magazine explores everything to do with hair competitions. We help you plan for a photo shoot, keep your nerves in check on stage and tell you how competing can help hairstylists sharpen their skills. Read on and get ready to shoot for the stars!

salon52.ca

m a r c h 1 1 < s a l o n 43

Shooting for the Stars

A Shot at Success Industry professionals offer an inside look at how to produce competition-worthy photo-based hair collections

By Noelle Stapinsky

Studio styling

Tony Masciangelo

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Toronto-based Tony Masciangelo, one of Canada’s top editorial stylists, owner of the Alcorn Salon and 2011 Session category Contessa winner, says the key element to creating beautiful editorial hair is that it’s not about the hair, it’s all about the girl.

Certainly that is true when you’re styling super models for top fashion magazines that Masciangelo works with—such as Vanity Fair, FLARE, FQ, FASHION and Elle Canada. The creativity of editorial

Contessa 21, elite master hairstylist of the year, hair: tony masCiangelo, alCorn salon, toronto, photo: Chris niCholls

F

or many stylists across the country, getting into photo-based hair competitions may seem like a daunting endeavour.

Obviously not everyone has photo shoot experience, but you don’t have to be a seasoned editorial stylist with a big budget to get in the game. By tapping into local resources and professionals, stylists can showcase their talent on a reasonable budget.

But before you flip through the Yellow Pages looking for a photographer, a makeup artist or fashion designers, Dee Fortier, artistic director for Eufora, says the first step stylists need to take is developing a storyboard. “Look through fashion magazines to see what you like, search online and collect images that you can draw inspiration from,” says Fortier.

[See sidebar: "School of Hard Shots."]

With these images, look at the lighting, backdrops, makeup and how the models are posed.

This will help in creating a collection storyboard, which is key when communicating the concept to photographers, makeup artists, etc., and will subsequently help in choosing the right talented team to portray your vision.

And remember, it’s vitally important that collections tell a story.

salon52.ca

hair is often in the hands of the designers and editors, but Masciangelo says the styling elements for photo shoots are similar.

Communication with the photographer, art director, makeup artists or any others involved with the photo shoot is also key.

“But you can’t be too insistent on just your ideas.

The photographer might have a different vision. So don’t show up on set with any preconceived notions.

Have an idea of what you plan to do, but have 20 more in your kit. And be open to whatever happens,” says Masciangelo.

Ara Sassoonian, an award winning hairstylist and photographer from Montreal-based Pure salon, says, “A strong synergy between the hairstylist and the photographer is essential. The stylist must make the concept clear and express his/her expectations.”

When it’s time to shoot, the hairstylist should be next to the photographer to ensure the angle is correct and looking to see if any touch-ups are needed. “Doing hair for photos is totally different than working behind the chair. There are details that you don’t see in real life,” says Sassoonian.

Post-production is also very important. This is when frame selection, cropping and touch-ups (that is, Photoshop) can be done. Don’t just leave it up to the photographer.

For Masciangelo, winning awards for your work is a true honour, but the real reward is how such

salon52.ca

accolades help his business at his Toronto salon.

“My clients are aware of the photos I do. They see my name in magazines and appreciate the fact that their stylist is out there doing stuff and being recognized within their industry. It gives you more credibility with your clients. And, ultimately, they are the most important,” he says.

A view from the lens With 15 years of experience shooting commercial and editorial fashion, as well as being a seasoned hair competition photographer, Richard Dubois says the best advice he can give a stylist planning to show a hair collection is “to have a very clear vision of what the collection will look like. Having visual references and a sit-down meeting with the photographer beforehand is essential,” says Dubois. “The photographer and hairstylist need to be able to find a creative rhythm to work well together.”

Figuring out a budget that works for everyone is also very important. “Concepts don’t need to be complicated and expensive. It’s best to first allocate your budget toward hiring strong talent. If the budget is limited, start small and simple with a single entry, with three models and a simple wardrobe.”

Too many stylists feel that in order to showcase the hair they must shoot from the shoulder up, but Dubois encourages them to broaden their concepts to include wardrobe, more elaborate sets and even

t

Contessa 21, Makeup artist of the Year, hair: Véronique Beaupré, Makeup: MaxiMe poulin, photo: ara sassoonian

Ara Sassoonian

m a r c h 1 1 < s a l o n 45

Shooting for the Stars

“I think one reason why Giancarlo and I have done well with competitions such as the Contessa awards is because we take a fashion approach to our work. While the hair is the most important and has to be done right, it is the attention to details everywhere else that elevates the shooting process,” says Dubois. “We try to communicate to our clients that shooting hair collections is not like styling behind the chair at the salon. It requires a great deal more from them technically and creatively.”

For newcomers and veteran stylists alike, getting into photobased competitions takes an extraordinary amount of planning and strategy. When choosing a photo competition, chose the category you decide to enter wisely. Read the rules and regulations carefully and make sure you understand the judging criteria. Knowing what you’re shooting for will further define and refine your collection and possibly help get your collection into the winner’s circle.

School of Hard Shots Each year Eufora Artistic Director Dee Fortier runs a three-day photo shoot school at the Metro Beauty Academy in Woodbridge, Ont. Fortier, along with photographer Richard Dubois and Toronto-based stylist Giancarlo Intini, teach eight to 10 students how to conceptualize and shoot their own collections from start to finish.

For the DIY newcomer stylist looking to produce a collection, Fortier offers up these tips for photo shoots on a shoestring budget: • Find an up-and-coming photographer with a portfolio that will suit your needs.

• Look for makeup artists and fashion designers wanting to break into the industry.

• Do trials of all aspects—hair, makeup, wardrobe and photography—to make sure your concept works.

• The hair is the focus, so keep wardrobe choices simple and suited to your models’ body types.

• If the photographer doesn’t have a studio, get backdrops, some boxes and lighting, and use your salon on a Sunday when it’s closed.

Dee Fortier

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This year’s YOU School photo shoot program will be held November 6 – 8, 2011, at the Metro Beauty Academy in Woodbridge, Ont..

top, model photo: hair and makeup: giancarlo intini, photo: richard dubois

Richard Dubois

consider location shooting.

“It’s good to think in terms of fashion editorial even though you’re shooting a hair collection,” he says.

“You also need to find a balance between originality and creativity, and what can be realistically done. Push the limits of what you can do as a hairstylist, but be honest with yourself about what you and your team can pull off,” he adds.

Planning a photo shoot can take weeks. Hairpieces must be ready to go, kits stocked up and the day planned out to include prep time and breaks. The day of the shoot is not the time to try your hair concepts out for the first time. Trial runs and even getting test photos done can help you fine-tune the concept and ensure that “shoot day” runs as smoothly as possible.

Four years ago when Dubois started shooting for hair competitions, he teamed up with Toronto-based stylist and makeup artist Giancarlo Intini who art directs and produces the photo shoots.

salon52.ca

Lacquer and the lens

Shot list Popular photo-based competitions around the world The Contessa Awards – The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards www.salon52.ca/contessa Goldwell Color Zoom www.goldwell-northamerica.com L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy http://www.lorealcolourtrophy.com/ Matrix Destination Fame www.matrixacademy.ca North American Hairstyling Awards www.probeauty.org/naha Redken Cover Competition www.redken.ca Wella Professional Trend Vision http://wella.com/en-EN/wella_2011_ trend_vision-pro.aspx American Crew FACE-OFF www.theiconconsultancy.co.uk/

Much like hair, there is heavy competition around the world for nail artists. But for photo-based nail competitions, there are subtle elements that will either make or break a creative collection.

Lee-anne Henderson, educational director for Entity Beauty and a nationally renowned award-winning nail artist, gives the inside scoop on what judges look for.

“Nails shoot differently than hair and makeup, so it’s important to find a photographer who understands what you’re looking for,” says Henderson.

“The angles that you shoot them on are really important.”

To start, nail artists should put together a book of great nail shots.

Look for innovative nail designs and advertisements created by major polish brands for inspiration.

The highlight from the lighting should go directly down the centre of the nail.

“Because nails are concave, the light will bounce off them crooked or straight and that’s a good indication if the artist has a smooth surface,” says Henderson.

“Little things like that are big and

it’s something I look for when I’m judging [competitions].”

Also, nail technicians too often have the hands holding an object.

Henderson finds this frustrating and unnecessary. Artists need to find a way to incorporate the hands naturally, make the hands the focal point of the image without making it obvious.

To choose the right model, find someone with long, slender hands with long, even nail beds. Younger hands are often the most beautiful and have fewer veins, which can distract from the artwork. Knuckles also really show up in images.

When picking nail polish colours, Henderson recommends cream colours. “They show the best highlights and shines. A lot of people choose red because it’s timeless and classic, but metallics are harder to shoot. They show more brush strokes and the light doesn’t bounce off them as nicely as a cream colour with high shine.”

Metallics can also add weight to the nail. You know how people say the camera adds 10 pounds, well it does the same thing to finger nails.

Live versus photo competitions: You weighed in on different types of competing through Facebook

salon52.ca

the competitor. I prefer live model competition for the realistic skills needed that can be translated to my dayto-day styling, keeping my skills sharp.”

client more loyal. Photobased is another element that comes after live competitions. I love it all! It makes you a well-rounded competitor and person.”

Kelly Kalmbach: “My favourite is live and timed.

It’s an excellent way to perfect the designer’s eye and skill, plus it makes the

Lindie Blackwell: “I have entered the Contessas for the last four years...love it!

I've also done the timed platform-type competitions

but I feel they are too limited in style for me personally.”

Melanie White: “I love them all! They’re the reason I do what I do. It’s an amazing outlet for an artist’s creativity.

They allow us to push to be our very best and try new things we wouldn't have the opportunity to try in the salon!” t

Sandy Roberts: “Live, hands-on competition is like Broadway theatre, and photo competition is like Hollywood movies. Live competition has the excitement of watching artists perform live, while pre-finished photos are productions from a lot of hard work in preparation and presentation, both beautiful and satisfying to

m a r c h 1 1 < s a l o n 47

Shooting for the Stars

Going Live

W

hen it comes to live hair competitions you only have one shot to impress the judges. Being successful on stage means you have to practice your skills well in advance and keep your nerves in check.

Rasa Jurenas, award-winning hairstylist and Essential Looks artist for Schwarzkopf Professional, has been competing live for the past seven years.

“It’s a different kind of rush that you go through. You need to be on a timeline, keep yourself organized and your vision needs to be very clear,” she says.

“When competing live you are running on adrenaline and the last thing you want is your nerves to take over.”

Popular live hair competition Hairapalooza draws more than 400 people in every major city across Canada. “This event is a creative outlet for hairstylists who work behind the chair every day and want to let their imaginations go,” says Frank Bruno, Schwarzkopf Professional national sales director and founder of Hairapalooza.

“It’s also a great way for hairstylists and student hairstylists to compete in a friendly, supportive environment.”

To prepare for live competitions Jurenas starts off with sketching out her colour pattern and cutting ideas on paper. Then she works on mannequin heads to make sure that the colour and cut was established with flow. “You definitely need to start in good time to make sure everything works together.

Personally, I like to plan eight weeks to a few months in advance,” she says.

“Then really look at your model’s hair in terms of colour and texture. Know who

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By Emily Gravelle

your model will be when designing your creation, if possible.”

Keep Focused The Allied Beauty Association (ABA) runs anywhere from four to seven live competitions at each of the ABA shows, including both men’s and women’s trend cut and style, elegant evening long hair and makeup, new talent and the Cityline Ordinary to Extraordinary Makeover competition.

“Stylists train up to a year in advance to compete in a live competition. The constant repetition polishes their skills in the allotted time frame and teaches the stylist to think quickly on his or her feet to solve any unforeseen problems,” says Stephanie Gadbois, event planner for ABA. She also says stylists must learn focus and patience in order to handle the excitement that surrounds them live on the floor. “It’s all about getting into the zone and tuning out everything around them,” says Gadbois.

Keep Calm According to Grace Martinez, national education co-ordinator for Schwarzkopf, learning to stay calm under pressure is the most important mental skill a competitor can have. “Focus on the outcome as you go into the competition and have a plan for your end result,” she says. “You should have executed your cut many times on a mannequin so you understand the timing and you know your line. Consider hiring a trainer or find someone who has recently won competitions.”

Martinez says not to focus on the

Hairapalooza pHotos: salon magazine, wella trend vision pHotos courtesy of eryn wall

Staying mentally focused during live competitions

salon52.ca

opponent. Discipline yourself to keep centered in your job. “Also, wear loose, fashionable clothing. Wear comfortable shoes as you will be working in tight conditions and remember the judges are looking for three main things: suitability, creativity and quality of workmanship,” she says.

Express Yourself Eryn Wall from The Head Room in St. John’s, Nfld. represented Canada in the Young Talent category two years in a row at the international Wella Trend Vision competition. This past year, she and her model flew to Paris to compete live against other hairstylists from around the globe.

“Going to Paris was amazing. There is a real buzz in the air when you get there and actually see all the other competitors,” says Wall. “We were all given individual stations to complete our work during the competition. Then judges examine our models and the hairstylists and the models do a walk down the runway.”

Wall felt that having competed in Berlin the year before helped her

understand the calibre of work that is expected and gave her an edge. “I knew what to anticipate from both the national and international Trend Vision. I learned a lot about finishing hair this year just by watching what other people were doing,” she says.

To prepare, Wall practised on mannequins every spare moment she got. This allowed her to tweak her look and build speed. To prep her live model, Wall did a lot of deep-conditioning treatments and kept the hair in optimal condition right up until the big day.

“When you are working live you can’t hide anything. The judges have a 360-degree view of your model and can touch the hair,” says Wall. She will continue to compete because it helps her step outside the box, express her creativity and develop her skills as a stylist. “It’s such a rush when you get involved in a competition and get to the next level. It’s good for your clients to see that you are constantly pushing the boundaries and striving for that special place in the industry,” she says.

Rules to Remember When entering a live competition, Schwarzkopf’s Grace Martinez recommends you do the following:

• •

Read the rules carefully and know the criteria for entering.

•

Research the lighting where your model will be displayed, as a major part of the preparation is your makeup. You may want to hire a makeup artist.

•

Wardrobe and posing of your model is a key factor. Once you leave the stage your model has to stand out above the rest.

You need to have the skills in hair colour and detailed colour placement which will complement the cut or style. t

•

Fully understand the tools allowed on the competition floor and what you may use during the competition.

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m a r c h 1 1 < s a l o n 49

Shooting for the Stars

Friendly Competition

Rocco Campanaro, Axcess Salon + Spa, Richmond Hill, Ont. As a seasoned competitor in the Contessa Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards, Campanaro says it’s not about winning, but pushing boundaries.

“Any time you push yourself, you’re improving your skills,” he says. “Competition gives me a reason to push myself to the next level.” After winning Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year in 2003, Campanaro’s work was seen—and published—around the globe.

“One of my staff members found my work in two Russian magazines and then a client found my collection in a Japanese magazine,” he says. “It was written in Japanese and the only thing I could recognize was the spelling of my name. I’ve also seen my work appear in Esthetica and Hairdresser’s Journal and to me that’s an amazing boost of confidence.”

On winning, Campanaro says it isn’t everything as there’s much to be gained from not placing first. “I look at it this way. Every time that I’ve won, I have never learned a darn thing because I felt like I was king of the world,” he says. “Every time I have lost, I can see what went wrong and learn what I could do better next time.”

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Dana Lyseng

Michelle Pargee

Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. It’s no secret that Dana Lyseng loves to compete. While she enters the Contessas nearly every year, she was also a finalist in the NAHAs two years ago and placed in the 2010 Wella Trend Vision competition for Canada.

“Competing really improves my skills as a stylist. I’ve been both a finalist and a semifinalist numerous times, so eventually it is my goal to win,” says Lyseng. “However, if you look back on my photos from five or six years ago compared to my work today, you can see the improvements I’ve made.

My skills are improving, and I’m becoming a better and stronger stylist.”

Lyseng says one of the bonuses of competing is meeting other stylists on a national level. “You meet tons of people doing these competitions. I think I have more friends nationwide than I do in my own city and it’s all because of competing,” she says. “Some of these people have become mentors, and you really learn a lot by connecting with people from all over the place who are in your industry.”

Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. A multiple Contessa winner and two-time Canadian finalist for Goldwell Color Zoom, Michelle Pargee says competing has reignited her passion for her career and her love of the art of hair.

She has found that winning and even becoming a finalist has a very immediate effect in terms of gaining media exposure and more clients. The creative freedom that comes with competing has allowed Pargee to learn new techniques, which she customizes for her salon guests. “My clients get so excited about my photo shoots and they can’t wait for me to try out my new skill on them,” she says.

Competing also has become an invaluable team-building tool for the staff at Milica SalonSpa. “When we work as a team on a competition photo shoot, it builds an amazing energy between all of us. The staff enjoys doing their own models or simply helping during the shoot,” says Pargee. “We all feel so much pride after a shoot is done. We had a successful year at the Contessas this past year, and it’s encouraged many of my staff members to do their own photo shoot collection.” S

Contessa 15, elite master winner, roCCo Campanaro, Contessa 22, bC hairstylist of the year semifinalist, dana lyseng Contessa 22, master Colourist winner, miChelle pargee

Winning isn’t everything. But competing can sharpen your skills and further your career By Emily Gravelle

salon52.ca

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The world’s a sTage

A must-attend on the international circuit, Trend Vision 2011 celebrates a cornucopia of sophisticated couture styles

l

By Yasmin Grothé

ast November, Paris was the playground from which four major trends emerged, showcasing Wella’s mastery of hair colour and style created by global creative directors Eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood. Souleiman and Wood have created an innovative portfolio of looks for 2011, with four distinct new styles rich in colour, texture and shape that define a new direction for hair: Glamazon, Lumina, Passionista and Polaris.

“It’s been a year's worth of work,” says Souleiman regarding the development and execution of this collection. As part of the show, leading stylists from around the globe also had the chance to interpret the four looks for the runway.

• • • • •

Primitive raw energy moves to the city.

Modern beauty needs to survive in the urban "jungle."

Tribal-inspired multi-textures and golden tones give this look an untamed femininity.

Controlled wildness of the hair combined with exaggerated volume for instant impact.

Colour is inspired by rich browns and gorgeous golds of the Amazon scattered through ends of the hair to add shimmering glamour that doesn’t look overdone.

POLARIS • Pure feminine elegance emerges, as charisma makes a dynamic comeback.

• Daring, dramatic statements celebrate women of power with strong, sculpted looks.

• Hair evokes a very shiny, graphic appeal with sharp lines and angles that play on light and darkness through shape and colour.

• A highly defined statement cut, this look is born from sculpted shapes with precision styling.

• Negative and positive with both dark and very light colours for a graphic look.

LUMINA • Sensorial science and technology.

• Luxury catapulted to brand-new, state-of-the-art levels.

• Futuristic sophistication that balances luxury and femininity.

• Rich in metallic fluidity through a trio of golds—white, yellow and rose.

• Geometric cut with texture for a modern shape.

• Very light, pale hair that is strengthened by multiple metallic shades.

PASSIONISTA • • • •

Modern seduction meets assertive sensuality.

Romance with an elegant edge.

Red makes bold statements as the definitive symbol of love.

Hair styles are soft, voluminous and full of movement, yet the shape is controlled and defined.

• Bold red impacts the passionate statement. S

photos courtesy of wella trend vision

THE FUTURE IS NOW Currently in its 13th year, Trend Vision was created to bring inspiration to the salon both for hairstylists and clients. Using research from renowned international trend-forecasting agencies, Trend Vision distills the key styles for the season. These provide the global creative directors with concepts that will set the scene for the in-demand styles next season.

Wood says, “We try to work out what message is happening in fashion and how we can relate that to what’s going on in our world.”

Fashion and beauty aren’t the only references when developing up-and-coming trends. Style forecasters also typically closely examine new currents in architecture, design, technology and even socio-cultural movements.

GLAMAZON

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salon52.ca

Passionista, interpreted by Toni & Guy

Glamazon, interpreted by Dimitry Vinokurov

Lumina, interpreted by HOB Salons

Polaris, interpreted

by Sassoon International salon52.ca

march 11 < s a l o n

53

Hair: Emily Beck Makeup: Cat Lasita Clothing: Thieves Photos: Kint Quon Retouching: Gary Godispodi Location: Evergreen Brick Works, Toronto

Nature Lover

Emily Beck from Freedom Hair in P.E.I. wins Schwarzkopf Essensityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inspired by Nature photo shoot and competition By Yasmin GrothĂŠ

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salon52.ca

“The trip to Toronto was great! I was lucky enough to have my sister and original model, Katie, come and assist me. I absolutely loved working with the photographers.

They were so amazing; they made me feel right at home during the shoot.”

E

mily Beck is a 20-yearold stylist from Charlottetown, P.E.I., who had never been off the island.

A nature lover at heart, she felt a powerful connection to the theme of the Essensity Inpsired by Nature contest because she is surrounded by beautiful landscapes and often finds inspiration from it.

When describing the photo that won first prize, Beck says, “I have always been fascinated by spider webs. They are so perfect and when they have a bit of dew or rain on them they look like they are made of crystal. I grew up on a farm, which is now no longer being used, like many of our local farms on P.E.I. I thought I would like to try and represent the dormant state that farms are taking using the inspiration of the untouched web in the corner of a barn door to get that message across."

Since part of her prize allowed her to choose an environmental charity that Schwarzkopf would contribute to on her behalf, Beck chose the Island Nature Trust in P.E.I. S

Preparing for the photo shoot on location at The Evergreen Brick Works in Toronto.

L-R: Christina Hug, Key Gordon Communications, Heather D'Ospina, brand manager, Schwarzkopf Professional, Katie Beck, contest winner's sister, Emily Beck, contest winner, Madison Hanley, model salon52.ca

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profile

LocaL Beauty Montreal hairstylist VĂŠronique BeauprĂŠ talks about passion and success

Q. You went to university to study art, but then opted to become a hairstylist. What inspired you to do so?

A. After art school, I took some time to think about my career. My mother suggested that I go to school for hair while I was considering my options, and I thought that was a great idea. Meanwhile, my father, who is very traditional, got me an administrative job to help pay the bills. My instructor at hair school recommended I apply for an assisting role at Salon Pure in Montreal. I landed the position, but it meant leaving a $20 an hour office job to become a $6 an hour shampoo girl. (My practical father wanted to kill me!) But I fell in love with the job because it felt very natural.

t

Q. When did you know that this would become your career path?

A. I was involved in a lot of creative things like writing for magazines and acting in commercials, and I had wanted to go to New York to sing. But as I got more involved with the business at Pure, it felt like the

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collection photos: contessa 22, local b, Montreal, Qc, canadian salon teaM finalist, Makeup: laurie couloMbe Marie-josĂŠe galibert, photos: patrick st. arnaud

By Emily Gravelle

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right place to be. On the day Pure had its grand opening, I was filming a commercial and I kept rushing the entire cast and crew along and telling all of them that I had to leave to make the party on time. Looking back that was pretty ballsy!

I was with Pure for 12 years before I left to open my own salon, local B. They gave me the passion and the knowledge and really I don’t think my career would have been the same if it weren’t for them.

Q. What is the story behind local B? How did it start?

A. Ever since I was a young hairstylist, I always wanted my own salon. Linda Lapointe, my partner, was a client of mine and we really clicked. One day while she was sitting in my chair at Pure she said, “If you ever decide to open up your own salon, I’d like to get involved because I have a lot of knowledge about business.” Then the father of two of my clients let me know about a space available at Laurier and St-Denis. I immediately called Linda and said it seems like the stars are aligning. We started a business plan and the rest is history.

Q. Local B has been in business for two years.

What has the experience of opening your own salon been like?

A. It’s a little scary. I was so comfortable at Pure and it felt like I was leaving family. But you have to go for it or spend the rest of your life regretting having never tried. It’s definitely more work, but it’s something I have always wanted.

Q. Your partner Linda doesn’t have a background in hairstyling. Why do you feel the partnership works so well?

A. Our match is good because we have the same vision. On a personal level we share the same ambition—we want to be able to take holidays and we like to have balance in our lives. When I’m behind the chair I’m focused and not looking anywhere else. I needed someone who could take care of the business aspect—like schedules, payroll and orders—so I could focus on my clients.

Q. A fire destroyed your salon’s location a year after you opened. Then you were up and running at a new spot just days after the accident. How did you pull that off?

A. We were all working when it happened. A fire

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broke out on the roof when some workers were repairing the air conditioning unit. Everyone was able to get out safely, including our clients, who still had foils on their heads. Even though the fire didn’t burn the first floor where local B was, everything got completely drenched from the water. They had to take the building’s roof off and it was like it was raining in the salon. I managed to grab our books so I could call clients.

We had put a lot of time and energy into the design of local B. It was tough to stand on the street and watch it all be destroyed, but we immediately started collaborating about moving. The fire happened on a Wednesday night. By Thursday we were already looking at a new place, Saturday we signed the lease and got the key. In the meantime, I set up our team in my house and we did appointments that were scheduled from there. By Wednesday morning of the following week, we were fully operational at the new location at 1221 Bernard Ave. W. in Montreal’s Outremont neighbourhood.

Q. You are well known for your beautiful work with hair extensions. Why do you love working with long hair?

A. It started when I was at school. I became fascinated with hairpieces and one of my goals was to specialize in hair extensions for straight hair.

When I first interviewed at Pure I was wearing a weave, but it wasn’t adapted properly to my hair texture. When I saw Great Lengths at a Toronto show I thought it was absolutely amazing. Hair extensions can be challenging, but it is so rewarding when you help create that transformation and make clients feel good about their hair.

Q. You were a finalist seven times at the 2011 Contessa Canadian Hairstylist of the year awards and also previously won 2010 Quebec Hairstylist of the Year. Why is competing important to you?

A. It really makes you become a better artist. I love the creativity that comes out of shooting collections.

You see all that beautiful work and get inspired.

Even with the fire happening, we still got it together and entered the Contessas. At the time, I felt like it wasn’t me at my best because the incident had taken so much energy out of us. I was so stoked that we made it as a finalist in seven categories!

Even though we didn’t win, just being there at the gala made me feel like I had already won. S

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Colour Trend Collection

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POWER AND STYLE

Color Zoom inspires with gorgeous colours and creative cuts

S

By Yasmin Grothé

PHOTOS COURTESY OF GOLDWELL COLOR ZOOM

teering away from 2010’s quiet and subdued mood, this year the fashion world is louder and more expressive.

This is echoed in Goldwell’s 2011 Color Zoom Collection, Play Strong, which recently debuted in Paris. Masculine elements underline a super-confident woman, while contrasts in black, white and red—along with an unconventional mixture of defined and playful shapes—provide touches of distinction and individual style. Asymmetric undercuts give hair a unique shape for cuttingedge contemporary styles that are highly expressive.

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Color Zoom International Creative Team â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Timothy Switzer, Mark Nordskov, Tyker Ho, Mario Krankl, Agnes Westerman and Oliver Szilagyi S

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Hair: Vivienne Mackinder Makeup: David Maderich Styling: David Widjaja Photos: Roberto Ligresti

Subtle Strokes Hair designer extraordinaire Vivienne Mackinder showcases a new collection that fuses fashion photography with the canvas of a painter 62

s a l o n > march 11

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n

eoteric is an electrifying avantgarde collection designed to stimulate the imagination that came from Mackinder's desire to explore new textures with exaggerated dimension. The styles are fashioned to showcase unorthodox setting techniques that create an edge. The ethereal look comes from using unique processes to press hair in folded foil for a zigzag effect and hooking the hair through a hairnet to achieve a setting pattern. S

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Naturally Beautiful The Bellisimo collection shows off soft, sleek and flowing hair

P

t

ure beauty is the inspiration for U.K. hairstylist Bruno Marc Giamattei. Naturally, he called this collection Bellisimo, which means â&#x20AC;&#x153;very beautiful.â&#x20AC;?

The hair is soft and touchable, styled long and loose or gently pinned back. Even the colour echoes a soft whisper with hues of chocolate, hints of gold highlights and warm tones of blonde.

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Hair: Bruno Marc Giamattei, Marc Antoni Hair Salon, U.K. Makeup: Victoria Baron Styling: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew O'Toole 66

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S

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All Hands On Deck

Life Preserver

Hey Sailor

Ahoy!

First Mate

Starboard

Lighthouse

White Cap

Pelican Gray

Sea Spray

Below Deck

Sunset Sail

Knotty

Model is wearing “Life Preserver”

12 New Nautically-Inspired Shimmers and Crèmes

film noir Chad Seale brings back romance and old-school glamour

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i

nspired by the dramatic lighting and flair of ’30s and ’40s romance and spy movies, 2010 NAHA finalist Chad Seale produces an exceptional collection.

Precision cuts, perfect colour and an air of secrecy are the key ingredients that bring Seale’s newest collection to life.

Here, the mood is dark, mysterious and sexy.

Hair: Chad Seale for Taylor Andrews, U.S. Makeup: Sherri Curtis Styling: Michelle Boucher Photos: Jake Garn S

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Collection: Gorgeous Hair: Will Eagles and Scott Smurthwaite, Cream, U.K. Makeup: Victoria Baron Styling: Shyla Hassan Photos: Andrew O'Toole

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Whiter Shade of Pale Stunning images and a sultry vibe mark this awardwinning collection

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egional winners of Wales & South West Hairdresser of the Year at the 2010 British Hairdressing Awards, salon owner Scott Smurthwaite and artistic director Will Eagles of Cream created this beautiful collection, appropriately titled Gorgeous. Inspired by iconic â&#x20AC;&#x2122;90s supermodel glamour, their goal was crafting wearable hair with a fashionable influence through a blend of high-shine colour and sharp-edged cuts. S

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Hair: Axxess Hair Design, Whitby, Ont. Makeup: Melanie Sleep Styling: Axxess Hair Design Photos: Tony Di Lorenzo

Rock on

Music and glamour becomes the ultimate inspiration for Axxess Hair Design

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intage Rock, Axxess Hair Designâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest collection, is inspired by todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rock glam with a twist of 1940s vintage couture. Deep hues of red, cool blondes and full fringes are the go-to looks for rocker chicks. For the laid-back rocker guy, Axxess keeps it simple with a clean cut and just a hint of colour on the ends. S

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Mia is wearing SpaRitual Nail Lacquer in Face of Destiny.

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Available for a limited time, while supplies last.

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colour

Hue TecHnology

By Noelle Stapinsky

New colour technology has added steps and rules that stylists need to embrace to achieve vibrant end results

SchWArzkopf profESSionAl

74

inOa l’oréAl profESSionnEl

Technical highlighTs

Technical highlighTs

Schwarzkopf recently relaunched its Essensity line as a permanent, ammonia-free hair colour with more than 50 shades and the ability to generate up to four levels of lift. Essensity uses two alkalizing agents—monoethanolamine (MEA) and aminomethyl propanol— independently gentle agents that are strong when combined. This two-step process boasts natural ingredients such as chamomile, sesame oil, red vine bud, ash tree bark and cranberry. The formulation is also free of artificial fragrances, silicones, paraffin, mineral oils, parabens, formaldehyde and derivatives.

l’oréal professionnel's permanent colour line is an ammonia-free, three step process. its patented oil delivery system (oDS)— found in the oleo Gel—is a fine mineral oil. The oDS acts as a barrier around the hair shaft, while forcing the gel colourant and oxidation agent deep into the hair shaft. instead of using ammonia as an alkaline agent to activate the oxidation of the colour, inoA uses monoethanolamine (MEA), an agent often used in non-lift or demi-permanent colour systems. Additional steps in this process include a dry emulsion to loosen the product, followed by a wet emulsion with warm water. finally the inoA process requires two shampoos with l’oréal’s post-shampoo product, which restores the hair’s natural ph level.

learning curve

learning curve

“We think the trend is and should be more toward natural ingredients and the environment. As much as manufacturers want to improve technologies in that direction, consumers are not walking into salons en masse and asking for natural hair colours and products. So the stylists have that challenge…sometimes they wait for the client to ask as opposed to sharing the information and including the client in the decision to use more natural hair products,” says Susan Boccia, national trainer for Schwarzkopf.

“The main challenge is the fact that inoA is not forgiving. You have to be precise with your mixing,” says colin ford, director of education and events for l’oréal professionnel canada. “Many hairstylists free-hand mix and they don’t realize that if they’re not precise they won’t get a true colour. Also oxidative colours with ammonia are inclined to swell and spread a little bit, but inoA does not. You need to take finer sections and make sure the hair is fully covered with the mixture.”

s a l o n > march 11

photos courtesy of schwarzkopf professional, l'oréal professionnel, oligo professional, goldwell

essensiTY

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KoKo OLIgO PrOFessIOnAL

elumen gOLDWeLL

Technical highlighTs

Technical highlighTs

Using a revolutionary three-part exothermic system, this ammonia-free colour from Montreal-based Oligo Professional offers a complete line of 100 shades that can be used as demi or permanent hair colour, decreasing a salon’s inventory level. The Acticolour—the second part of the line—offers four options: a Fortified Toner to tone pre-lightened hair, a Demi Permanent for toning natural colours, neutralizing undesirable tones or blending grey; Deposit for refreshing faded colours or covering grey; and the Lift, which lifts natural hair colours up to five levels. The cream developer comes in 5, 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume. The KoKo three-part system allows stylists to achieve vibrant results with less chemicals, while improving hair quality.

Launched 10 years ago, goldwell’s elumen is an ammoniaand peroxide-free colour solution that employs the science of negative and positive ions—two elements that are naturally in hair. To start the hair needs to be shampooed, conditioned and the line’s Prepare product applied. The hair must be fully dried before the elumen colour is put on. Once the hair is fully saturated, it’s important a cap is placed over the hair to keep the product from drying out. The next step is to rinse thoroughly and shampoo twice with the elumen Wash. The Wash product has a pH level of four and will keep the cuticle closed. The hair must be dried again and a Lock product applied for three to five minutes.

Lastly, one more rinse is needed to finish the process.

learning curve

learning curve

“The big challenge for us is converting salons into using these technologies, but once stylists switch to an ammonia-free colour solution, it’s hard for them to go back. The colour doesn’t smell anymore and it gives salons a competitive advantage. As a manufacturer we invest heavily in education. The stylists who adopt this technology get in-salon training to make sure they’re comfortable with and understand how to use the product to achieve the desired results,” says Ilan Cohen, vice-president of Oligo.

“some stylists think colour is colour and they can just slap it on.

There are specific rules with elumen that can't be broken. The hair must be dry before it’s applied and between the processes.

And the Lock product can’t be left on for more than five minutes.

If it is, it will change the positive charges in the hair to negative and pull the colour back out,” says Valerie Langford, elumen field education manager for central Ontario. “stylists must go through a training program before they can purchase elumen.” S

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nails

Clients are crazy about the growing trend in texturized nail innovations By Marlene Rego

Cracking Up

s

o-called 3-D nails are making their mark in 2011. This trend is an extension of a beauty craze that was first sparked by matte, suede and glittery texturized nails.

Now, the latest “crackle” polishes are already in hot pursuit and flying off shelves. The exact technology is a wellguarded secret but here’s how this new polish works: one coat is swept over painted nails and separates or “cracks” in seconds to reveal the nail beneath. LCN, OPI and China Glaze all have their own versions in a multitude of shades, and the response has been phenomenal.

“Let’s face it—this trend is edgy and creative. Bloggers and celeb manicurists are all talking about crackle and our customer service can’t keep up,” says Sarena Kirby, brand manager, new collections for China Glaze, which introduced six crackle colours in February. “Everyone’s winning here. The professional is loving it and the client is loving it,” she continues.

One of the best things about crackle polishes is they offer countless combinations to suit both the conservative client and the edgier customer who wants to rock a bold, deconstructed look. The polish is simple to apply yet offers a nail art effect that will have people asking: “Who did your nails?” The word of mouth potential is undeniable.

Another innovative addition to the nail world is LCN’s clear gel polish inspired by stained glass. The range will hit the market this month with 11 colours that give nail technicians

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a chance to be inventive and collaborate with clients. The transparent coloured gel can be moulded and cured with a UV light, so the mixing possibilities are endless. Clear French manicures are already in major demand overseas in Europe where the transparent pink and white nail is popular.

LCN has also introduced foils that can first be applied to the nail bed. The result is a peeka-boo effect that allows you to see a pattern underneath; picture a metallic foil of hearts or diamonds, for example. Jolena Nystrom, education and marketing co-ordinator for LCN International says the clear gel idea was first developed in Germany after months of market research. “We wanted to offer something fun and new that hasn’t been seen before because as nail artists we’ve seen everything,” she explains.

Developing the technology behind these polishes doesn’t come cheap, but the payoff has been worth it. According to some estimates, the nail category itself was up 14.5 per cent last year in a tough market for the beauty industry. It would seem the nail world is enjoying a boost from these new advances.

Salons can really capitalize on this idea of the nail as a fashion accessory, which has great potential to bring trendy digits to the mainstream. And now more than ever it’s key to offer clients the latest products on the market and use the hype to bolster business. S

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EARN YOUR DIPLOMA

IN THREE SEMESTERS

COSMETIC MANAGEMENT, OR ESTHETICIAN/SPA MANAGEMENT

business.humber.ca

NAIlS

At Your Fingertips

Welcome spring with punchy pastel shades that will instantly get noticed By Marlene Rego

Spring Fling

Essie takes a romantic turn with its latest collection aptly titled A French Affair. Featuring six upbeat shades, we fell in love with Nice is Nice and Coat Azure for their ’60s French glamour vibe.

Info: essie.com

In Bloom

Swap your moody winter shades for Orly’s new Precious range, a collection of six flirty colours reminiscent of a flower bouquet. They include classic, wearable shades such as Pure Porcelain, Sapphire Silk and Ancient Jade.

Info: orlybeauty.com

Design Intervention

Special Effects

This peachy duo is a sure bet for spring. The fast-drying Perfectly Bare nude can be topped with Perfectly Bare shimmer effects for an iridescent sheen that’s flattering on all skin tones.

Info: cnd.com

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Canadian fashion powerhouse Jason Wu is the first designer to collaborate with CND and debuted his five polishes on the spring 2011 runway. Try the classic Miss Wu grey, then layer it with the effects polish for a tweed-like fabric finish.

Info: cnd.com

Silver Lining

Girls’ Weekend Getaway is one of three new limited edition selections from CHI. The lacquers are chip resistant, thanks to ceramic, while the nano-silver keeps the formula anti-bacterial.

Info: farouk.com S

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premiere orlando June

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2011 Exhibit Floor Open Only June 5 & 6

photography & hair Luis Alvarez of Aquage :: makeup Wanda Alvarez of Aquage fashion stylist Patric Chauvez :: assistant Carly Campbell production Don Wismer

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the education you need to succeed

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For more information and to register, visit www.premiereorlandoshow.biz or call 800.335.7469 Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Florida Beauty Industry Professionals Only co-locating with and FREE ADMISSION TO:

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ESTHETICS

Growth Spurt

Ardell Lashtique Lash Conditioner

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ash extensions are quickly eclipsing other services on salon menus. They’re one of the simplest ways to grow your business and add profit to your bottom line.

According to Nielsen data, the sale of false lashes grew by 6.2 per cent last year to almost US$44 million, making it one of the hottest beauty categories.

Lash-only salons have been popping up across the country in recent years and easily withstood shaky economic times.

With three locations in the Vancouver area, Noir Lash Lounge’s business is booming. The only service on the menu is lash extensions and it offers more than 100 different varieties. Since the company’s inception in 2008, it has serviced well beyond 10,000 clients despite a strict no-advertising policy. President and founder Joyce Poon says word of mouth and well-trained technicians (160 practical hours of training are required) have carried the business.

Adding lash services to your salon is one of the most cost effective ways to make a pretty penny. “The return on investment is exponential because all you’re dealing with is a few drops of glue and a handful of tiny, synthetic eyelash fibres,” says Sophy Merszei, CEO of NovaLash, which specializes in lash extensions. NovaLash extensions cost about US$2 to US$4 for a full set, and with women paying upward of US$250 for this service, the opportunity for profit is very real.

In Houston, Merszei is co-owner of a lash bar with 5,000 clients. She adds that it’s not just “ladies who lunch” who are opting for false lashes, but many of her clients are workingclass women who don’t want to fuss with curlers and mascara every morning.

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If applied by a skilled lash extensionist, half of the extensions will remain after a month. Customers then return for a touch-up which involves reapplying any individual lashes that may have fallen off during the growth cycle. Extensions won’t ruin existing lashes, and mascara can be applied but isn’t necessary.

Merszei recommends lashes at a length of no more than eight millimetres for realistic but thick, healthy looking lashes. It usually takes two hours to apply extensions using an adhesive and tweezers to separate each lash. NovaLash is available in 50 countries, making it one of the biggest global distributors of lash extensions.

The company offers training around the world, and starter kits include extensions, tools and educational DVDs to help you introduce lashes to your clients. Merszei stresses this by saying, “Even the best products in the wrong hands don’t function well.” For 2011, NovaLash has created a beauty curriculum that schools can adopt to teach students this highdemand service.

American International Industries is another leader in the lash business and its line of Ardell lashes are popular for their range of made-to-fit eye shapes, including small, large, deepset, almond and round. In October, the company introduced Lashtique Lash Conditioner, which is used to promote the appearance of fuller lashes by preventing breakage with peptide technology and essential proteins.

The market has been flooded with similar lash growth serums like over-the-counter RapidLash and prescription-only Latisse. The lust for longer lashes is very real. To cash in on this trend, there’s never been a better time to attract your guests to this service. S

PHOTO COURTESY OF NOVALASH

l

Lash services are gaining momentum as a way to boost business By Marlene Rego

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Finally soMething truly unique in gel nails. never beFore seen and only FroM lcn!

LCN PROUDLY PRESENTS

Glass Gel a new trend in nail design “I did a double take when I saw the pattern shining through from underneath my nail!”–Melissa, Vancouver “I think the bar was just raised a little higher.”.”–Jennifer, Moncton “I thought I had seen it all…one word…AWESOME!” word…

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Be BloWn aWay By the revolutionary lcn glass gel range. With eleven suBlime and truly transparent sculpting gels, you can create unique Works oF art on nails and nail extensions. lcn glass gel has a Firm texture and can Be individually modelled or thinly layered according to the desired colour intensity. the French look glass gel is also particularly striking. inserts in the gel and special Forms Will turn your clients‘ nails into real eye catchers. With lcn glass gels, your only limit is your imagination!

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interiors

Pure Indulgence Hair legend John Donato creates a blend of luxury and boutique-style flair

By Colette Wright

Retail therapy Even in today’s economy, John Donato believes the "soft sell" is best. A hard sell puts pressure on a client making it embarrassing when he or she says no. Donato adds, “While we educate the client about the products during their service, our first priority is to give them an incredible experience.” A common practice by stylists and estheticians is to place products used during the service in a basket. Then, during checkout the products are readily available if the client wishes to purchase them.

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Photos: david Whittaker

A

the latest go-to primping place for rock stars, celebs and divas, Donatio salon + spa at Shops at Don Mills has been the ideal spot for the award-winning stylist to launch another successful business. Afterall, it's Ontario's first open-air shopping centre boasting fashionable designers and exceptional restaurants.

Along with his two existing locations—Square One Shopping Centre in Mississauga, Ont. and Yorkdale Shopping Centre in Toronto—Donato has raised the bar of salon/spa design with a modern interior different from other salons today. It’s not surprising his new flagship location—Donato New Talent salon + spa, was a finalist in the recent Contessa Awards for Salon Interior Design.

With high ceilings in an open-concept style that flows freely around a 6,000-sq.ft. space, Donato says the design is comfortable for those clients who enjoy spending money on quality, yet approachable for those who are on a tight budget.

The entrance is large and inviting. Donato says, “It's reminiscent of a boutique-style hotel where the receptionist might appear more as a concierge welcoming guests.” Mounted on the wall behind the ivory marble desk is an eye-catching 12-ft. by 4-ft. mirror reflecting light into the area. A true entrepreneur, Donato has placed two

salon52.ca

retail areas with cosmetic counters on either side of the entrance.

“Creating bigger retail areas makes for better profits if done right,” claims Donato.

Adorned in colours of French vanilla, deep ebony and twilight zone black, Dan Menchions, creative master and owner/partner of II BY IV Designs in Toronto, says the palette of colours are gender neutral.

“Men feel at ease but it is the colour of client’s clothing and new hair shades that become the focal point of the design.”

Menchions, lead designer for the guest suites of New York Yankee’s new stadium and Toronto’s Trump Tower, turned Donato’s spa into a serene yet sophisticated sanctuary with heated floors and state-ofthe-art lounge furniture. “Taking a traditional wooden framed chair and painting it in a black lacquer gives the furniture piece a sculptural look but also very cozy to sit back and relax in.”

Another versatile feature is the colour bar where clients can watch their shade being mixed during the day, but at night the same bar can be used to host special events.

A calming addition to the salon/spa is the artwork and photography.

Created by Vancouver artist Angela Cameron, Donato says, “It is very soothing, inspiring and light, putting you at ease and adding up to more of a memorable experience for our guests.” S

salon52.ca

About us

Info:

Donato salon + spa 39 Clock Tower Rd., Toronto 416.390.9996, www.donato.ca

Owner:

John Donato

Opened:

January 2010

Breakdown:

6,000 sq.ft.; 20 staff; 16 cutting stations; 10 colour stations

Designer:

II BY IV – Dan Menchions

Furniture & Equipment:

Takara Belmont - Maletti

Lighting Designer:

Eurolite

Retail Hair:

Z.One; milk_shake; urban tribe; Oribe; Keratin Complex; Arrojo

Retail Spa:

John Donato Cosmetics; John Donato Mineral Cosmetics; Artist Choice Cosmetics; Deborah Lippmann (nails); Darphin; GM Collin; Yonka; Dermalogica

Software:

Resort Suite

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SCOOP

new era for oPi OPI Products Inc., a leader in professional nail salon products, has entered into an agreement to be acquired by global beauty company Coty.

The acquisition will enhance Coty’s colour cosmetic portfolio, through the addition of more than 200 fashion-forward colours of OPI’s internationally successful Nail Lacquer’s chip-resistant formula.

“It’s time for a new era at OPI, and together with Coty we can begin this new journey,” said George Schaeffer, president and CEO of OPI Products Inc. “For almost 30 years, we have built a solid foundation of innovation and excellence. We are confident that by joining Coty, this legacy will continue and be strengthened. We are all excited about the next phase of opportunity for OPI. Our management team will continue on with the company and OPI’s business strategy will remain focused on the salon professional.”

Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, the executive vice-president and artistic director of OPI Product said, “OPI has a reputation for creating fashion-forward products that make women feel beautiful and Coty is a well-established trend setter in the beauty industry. Together we will continue to push the envelope in beauty, colour and trends.”

Financial terms of the transaction were not disclosed. The transaction is also subject to customary regulatory approvals. app Helps enhance Business The Six Figure Hairdresser, a new iPhone and iPad App, is designed to help hairdressers build their careers to the six-figure level. The App includes 10 modules that cover everything from building client relationships to using technology and social media. Harry Wood IV, a stylist and coach from Van Michaels Salons in Atlanta and the man behind the new program, offers coaching in the App. He says, “With the right coaching and an energized attitude any stylist can build a career that brings in revenue of $100,000 plus.” The App can be purchased for $2.99 at www.sixfigurehairdresser.com

L’Oréal Professionnel launched its latest project for AIDS awareness—the 2011 beauty calendar, Hairdressers Against AIDS. The calendar features 12 stunning starlets, each famous in their respective fields. The celebrities donated their services to support the program, agreeing to be photographed by renowned hairstylist and photographer, John Nollet. ooPs! On p.26 of Salon Magazine’s Jan/Feb 2011 issue, we incorrectly listed Howard Barr as Christopher Leon.

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Business excellence

Rhonda Skanes, owner of East Coast Beauty Inc. in St. John’s, Nfld., was awarded the 2010 Entrepreneurial Excellence Award by the Newfoundland and Labrador Organization of Women Entrepreneurs (NLOWE).

new innovation for Hair loss: trioxinator Manufactured by Follicles Hair and distributed by Kingdom Beauty Supplies, the Trioxinator—a device that helps hair loss—was discovered by accident.

RJ Conn created the device in 2005 to help clients reduce stress and relax, but then saw that after several sessions the hair loss had stopped and in some cases had even appeared to reverse itself.

The Trioxinator is a small hand-held device easy to travel with; the device is cordless with a rechargeable battery. A massage session takes only 15 minutes each day and it even has a self-timer.

model photo: John nollet

L’Oréal Professionnel Creates Celebrity Calendar to Support AIDS Awareness

salon52.ca

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SHOP for all your favourite items at the best prices and discover the hottest, newest products.

ENJOY the ABA competitions, the opportunity to connect with your peers and the ever-popular Sunday night ABA party.

VISIT THE ABA SHOW IN YOUR REGION THIS YEAR ON ONE OF THESE DATES: Montréal Toronto Winnipeg Vancouver Edmonton

Palais des Congrès Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building) Winnipeg Convention Centre Vancouver Convention Centre West (NEW LOCATION) Northlands Park

BUY YOUR TICKETS ONLINE Don’t forget you can purchase ABA show tickets online at www.abacanada.com, all major credit cards accepted. You will then pick up your ticket at the show registration booth, look for a sign that says “ONLINE TICKET PURCHASE”.

March 13 & 14 March 27 & 28 April 10 & 11 April 17 & 18 May 1 & 2 STAY CONNECTED! RECEIVE THE LATEST NEWS & MORE! Become a fan of the show at Facebook.com/Allied Beauty Association or follow us on twitter.com/ABACanada

Ask your distributor for details or call 1-800-268-6644 for more information or simply visit www.abacanada.com Design: Artisan Design,Windsor, Ontario Hair and Concept: Heather Wenman of STUDIO H Makeup: Giancarlo Intini Photographer: Babak

EVENTS

Salon International Attracts Big Names Thousands of hair and beauty enthusiasts from around the globe flocked to London last October for the annual Salon International show. The three-day event was packed with seminars and lives shows that included leading creative teams such as Paul Mitchell’s Robert Cromeans, Saco, Davines’ Tim Hartley, Toni&Guy, Sassoon Academy and Mahogany.

Paul Mitchell Stystems' artistic director Stephanie Kocielski, iconic hairstylist Takashi Kitamura and global artistic director Robert Cromeans wowed the crowds with their “world of colour” presentation. Saco discussed the importance of colour placement during its seminar and showcased its Curve collection. Meanwhile, Tim Hartley presented his Abstraction collection during the Davines show. Models sported cropped locks with darker roots and halo ends. Toni&Guy took inspiration from all over including men’s barber haircuts of the prohibition era, ’90s grunge and classic high-fashion hair looks of the runway.

salon52.ca

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EVENTS

Calgary ABA Roundup The Allied Beauty Association took over the Calgary Exhibition last October, welcoming more than 5,000 stylists and presenters from across Canada. The two-day show held at the Stampede Roundup Centre is the largest beauty exhibition and educational event in Canada. The show’s biggest presenters included TIGI, Redken, Revlon Professional, Sebastian, Wella, Matrix, L’Oréal Professionnel and Paul Mitchell Systems. The educational seminars, by keynote speakers Jon Gonzales and Lance Courtney, inspired guests to focus on business growth and improve retail sales in a struggling economy.

Each year one lucky hairstylist is chosen from only 20 entries to appear on CityLine’s Fashion Friday in the annual Ordinary to Extraordinary Makeover . 12”, 16”, 20” available. competition. The winner, Michelle Oliver of Kicks Hair and Body salon, Edmonton, Alta., was flown to Toronto for the live show.

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Salon Magazine 11/10 Ad Size 3.75”W x 10” H

Sassoon International Look and Learn Sassoon’s international creative director, Mark Hayes, gave a hands-on presentation of the Neue-Kraft collection at the Sassoon Salon in Toronto.

Hayes demonstrated the latest cuts and colours from the spring/summer 2011 academy collection, which embodies the geometric abstraction of Russian constructivist sculptor, Naum Garbo, paired with beautiful functionality of the Sassoon technique.

Along with Hayes, Toronto’s creative directors Lorraine McAndrew and Nhi Train, regional colour director John Beeson and Miami’s regional creative director Keith Ayotte showed the steps required to achieve looks from the collection. This season’s new Stereometric cutting technique generates shapes that overlap and intersect to create dynamic movement and bold disconnected lines that circle the head, creating a series of innovative forms.

photo courtesy Tony Ricci Ricci Hair Company 2010 NAHA Hairstylist of the Year Award

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British Hairdressing Awards British Hairdressing Awards, held last November, joined almost 2,000 beauty industry pros to fête British talent for the 26th year. The British Hairdresser of the Year award went to Angelo Seminara, who got a standing ovation for his win, which he called a “dream come true.”

Other notable winners include: Men’s Hairdresser of the Year - Jody Taylor, Toni&Guy, London; Afro Hairdresser of the Year - Kim Johnson and Michelle Sultan, Hype Coiffure, London; Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year - Efi Davies, Toni&Guy, Covent Garden, London; Newcomer of the Year - Dan Spiller, Marc Antoni, Fleet, Hampshire; Artistic Team of the Year - RUSH Hair, Croydon; and Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year - Christel Lundqvist, HOB, London.

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salon52.ca

Hair United 2010 Artline Salonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lina Shamoun from Kitchener, Ont. has created a hair show to celebrate local talent. Hair United 2010 showcased talent from local salons and raised more than $9,500 for TheMuseum, where the event was held.

Participating salons included: Cucci Cabello, So Chic Studio, Hot Heads Salon, Fad Hair Studio, Salon 126, Oiseau Salon, Acqua Salon and St. Louis Adult Learning and Continuing Education Centre. Hundreds of supporters turned out to catch a glimpse of stylists' skills and enjoy the nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s music and drinks.

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EVENTS

Haartek Salon’s Grand Reopening

For further inquires on current distribution: Head Office (Canada): phone: 905.482.4399, 416.834.4729 • fax: 905.856.0901 maycosmetics@yahoo.ca • www.monplatin.com

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Yorkville’s Haute Coiffure salon has been redesigned and reinvented as the new Haartek. Cosimo Panetta and Remo Bot, owners of Haartek, took over the ownership of Haute Coiffure Salon at the Manulife Centre in Toronto’s prestigious Yorkville neighbourhood and reopened the salon with a new chic contemporary design.

The co-owners explain that about two years ago, the renowned Claus and Sonja Feser, owners of Haute Coiffure, approached the duo about taking over the business, which they had run for more than 40 years.

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OPI’s Suzi WeissFischmann Introduces New Texas Collection in Toronto It was a nail enthusiast’s dream. Executive vice-president and artistic director of OPI Proudcts Inc., Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, came to Toronto to join magazine editors and media for the unveiling of the new Texas Collection.

Guests at the event were treated to manicures with the new colours before Weiss-Fischmann spoke to the crowd about some of OPI’s other initiatives such as collaborations with pop icons Katy Perry and Justin Bieber, as well as tennis superstar Serena Williams. Timed in conjunction with the Australian Open, French Open, Wimbledon and the US Open, the Glam Slam collection will introduce two new nail lacquers at the start of each tournament in partnership with Williams.

If that isn’t enough to keep one company busy, OPI has also recently introduced eight new shades of Axxium Soak-Off Gel Lacquers, adding to the 34 that are currently available and marking the first time this service features shades as they are introduced. Several key, bestselling lacquers from the fall/ winter 2010 Swiss and 2010 Designer Series Collections were selected as new additions to the Axxium service.

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American Crew 3-in-1 Shampoo pg 33 ............800-387-7980 China Glaze Anchors Away pg 67 ....................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com CND Shellac pg 23 ...........................................877-CND-NAIL ...................... www.cnd.com/shellacsm CND Shellac pg 25 ...........................................877-CND-NAIL ...................... www.cnd.com/shellacsm ER Extensions EZ Fusion pg 40-41..................866-788-5599 ........................ www.ezfusion.com Global Best Beauty pg 88..................................866-468-2205 ........................ www.gbbhair.com Goldwell HiBlondes pg 51................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwell-northamerica.com Hot Tools Blue Ice Titanium pg 56 ....................800-487-8432 ........................ www.hottools.com IBD Beauty Gelac Spring 2011 pg 39 ...............800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com Images Hair Clinics pg 93 .................................866-942-4247 ........................ www.imageshairsolutions.com

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International Beauty Services pg 89.................800-642-3818

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Joico Vero K-Pak Extra Reds pg 100 ...............800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com

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❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Title ___________________________________________ Business Name____________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________

Kerastraight Brazilian Keratin pg 37.............................................................. www.kerastraight.ca Kevin Murphy body.builder pg 28 ....................800-387-2962 ........................ www.kevunmurphy.com.au Kingdom Beauty Supplies Trioxinator pg 90 ...800-738-8666 ........................ www.kingdombeauty.com L’Oreal Professionnel INOA pg 2-3 ..................800-361-8017 ........................ www.inoa.ca LCN Colour Trend Collection pg 59 .................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca LCN Crackle Effect Polish pg 65......................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca

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May Cosmetics Mon Platin pg 92 ................................................................... www.monplatin.ca

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se202

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FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

MC College pg 93 ..............................................888-314-7965 ........................ www.mccollege.ca Mixed Chicks pg 91 ...........................................877-888-0480 ........................ www.mixedchicks.net OPI Texas Collection pg 35...............................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Orofluido pg 42..................................................800-387-7980 ........................ www.orofluido.com Pivot Point pg 92 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca Premiere Orlando 2011 pg 79 ...........................800-335-7469 ........................ www.premiereshows.com Pureology Color Stylist pg 10-11 .....................800-361-1861 ........................ www.pureology.com Redken Canada pg 19 .......................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Revlon Style Masters pg 16-17 ........................800-387-7980 Schwarzkopf BC Hairtherapy pg 27.................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf BC Hairtherapy pg 31.................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 12-13 .....................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora 50th Anniversary pg 4-5 ....800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Soma Hair Technology pg 22 ............................866-843-2257 ........................ www.somahair.ca SpaRitual Truth Collection pg 73 .....................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Star Nail Canada Cuccio Naturale pg 85 .........877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Humber College The Business School pg 77 ................................................. www.business.humber.ca Unite GO365 Hairspray pg 8-9 ........................................................................ www.unitehair.com

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0

Wella Trend Vision 2011 pg 14-15 ...................800-267-1962

or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

Wella Professionals pg 6-7 ...............................800-267-1962

s a l o n > march 11

salon52.ca

EVENTS

Masquerade Takes Centre Stage at Alternative Hair Show It was a packed house at the 28th annual Alternative Hair Show, which took place in October at the magnificent Grand Temple of the Freemasons’ Hall in London. Two shows and a gala dinner raised £200,000 to support leukemia and lymphoma research.

The event showcased the incredible work of 17 teams from all over the world that performed during the evening. Hairstylists worked tirelessly during the day to create the inspired looks around the theme of masquerade.

The looks varied from the cosmic world of aliens in Dimitry Vinokurov’s segment, to sleek bobs in clear, bright pastels in Saco’s collection. Montreal hairstylist Aldo Furfaro worked on the Saco team’s presentation.

There was a definite feeling of fantasy on the runway as Nicholas French’s presentation showcased whimsical characters like Alice in Wonderland. French wove the hair into strong avant-garde shapes to complete his Masquerade collection. The Alternative Hair Show is a platform for the world’s leading creative artists and is a launch pad for the direction and inspiration of tomorrow’s hairstyling stars.

salon52.ca

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EVENTS

Hairapalooza Toronto The energy, talent and music were all dialed up at Schwarzkopf Professional’s 5th annual Hairapalooza competition at Toronto’s Kool Haus concert venue.

Schwarzkopf kicked off the event by debuting its latest Essential Looks collection, presented

by Rasa Jurenas, an Essential Looks artist and educator for Schwarzkopf.

The 45-minute live competition had 20 professional and 20 new talent stylists battling it out for the Hairapalooza trophies.

For the professional category Elena Bogdanets from Figaro Hair and Beauty Salon took first place. Liz Amorin of Echo Salon placed second, and Louie Fierro of Box Hairdressing was awarded third. In the newcomer category Teija Tucker of Acqua Salon won first, second place went to Jon Dobbie of Salon Once, and Ben Barkworth from Colours Salon received third.

march 2011 INTErNaTIONaL BEaUTY ShOW (NY) March 6—8, 2011 Jacob Javits Convention Center New York Info: ibsnewyork.com amErIca’S BEaUTY ShOW (chIcaGO) March 12—14, 2011 McCormick Place Chicago Info: americasbeautyshow.com aBa mONTrEaL March 13—14, 2011 Palais de Congres Montreal Info: abacanada.com INTErNaTIONaL SaLON & SPa EXPO (mIDWEST) March 26—28, 2011 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, Ill. Info: probeauty.org/isse/

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aBa TOrONTO March 27—28, 2011 Metro Toronto Convention Center Toronto Info: abacanada.com cIaBc March 28, 2011 Stanley Theatre Vancouver Info: ciabc.net/

haIr cLaSSES avEDa EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 chI EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBaL BEST BEaUTY EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

GrEaT LENGThS EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KmS EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 877.670.6767 L’OréaL PrOfESSIONNEL EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

UrBaN BEaUTY SYSTEmS Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available; Info: 866.731.4327

NaIL & ESThETIcS cLaSSES avEDa EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

maTrIX EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 888.422.6879

cND EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: contact your local CND distributor

rEDKEN EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 866.9.REDKEN

LcN EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings

SKP EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor

STar NaIL EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 800.661.9997 S

TIGI EDUcaTIONaL PrOGramS Info: 800.259.8596

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LAST WORD

M

y hat goes off to any stylist entering a competition. It takes guts, determination, patience, sweat and strong doses of nerve to deal with the stress of these events.

If you decide to go for it, and challenge yourself and your creativity, here are a few words of advice.

To begin with, picking the right model is crucial. No matter what category you enter, make sure your model is the right one to show off your creation. This doesn’t only mean having great hair, but also attitude. For photographic competitions, you must have a model that feels comfortable in front of the camera and will not freeze.

If the time allowed (for live competitions) is one hour, and you think you have finished at 45 minutes, please step back, take a deep breath, lay down your tools and observe your creation. I have seen many competitors overdo their work and ruin it because they think they must keep working on their model up to the very last minute.

Sometimes less really is more.

For those of you who like avant-garde, and I know there are many, remember the meaning of the term: radically new, unusual and experimental. This category is tough to interpret, always controversial and difficult to judge.

If you want to produce something really spectacular for a photographic competition, artistic research is essential. Study how some of the great photographers (or as I call them, photogeniuses) compose an image with their model. I recommend David Bailey, Irving Penn, Horst, Richard Avedon and the great Armenian-Canadian photographer Yousuf Karsh.

Lighting is so important to enhance the look and feel of your image.

Look at the compositional work of some of the great painters to learn more about this. Avedon credits the 17th-century Dutch painting master, Vermeer, as one of his sources of inspiration. And there are also Renoir

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and Velasquez. All of these great painters are masters of light.

On a more humorous note, may I suggest two movies that pertain to hair competitions?

Good Hair is a Chris Rock documentary, so you know it’s going to be entertaining. But it’s also informative on the subject of what black women will do—and spend—to get “good hair.” I love the scenes of buying human hair in India for weaves and extensions. But the best part of this film is a hair competition at the Bronner Bros. International Hair and Beauty Show in Atlanta which is hysterical. Truly one of the funniest movies I have ever seen.

Blow Dry is a great Britflick starring Alan Rickman, from the same writer as The Full Monty. Complete with golden scissors, the story focuses on the National Hairdressing Championships in a small rural town in Yorkshire, England. Very funny, with Bill Nighy making a superb I’ll-do-anything-to-win-this-competition villain.

Speaking of winning, I’ve had the honour of being a judge a couple of times, so I know how easy it is for a contestant to come within one point of placing in the top three. So if you don’t place, do not get discouraged, keep on entering. My dad always told me that it doesn’t matter if you win or lose, it's how you play the game that’s important. If you’ve enjoyed striving for your goal, worked to your own satisfaction and grown from the experience, you are a winner. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

STEINBERG PHOTO: BARRIE WENTZELL

Preparing to Win

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