Salon Magazine, March 2018 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

STYLING AND PROFILING

Talk About Men

C UTTIN G EDGE OF B A RBERIN G

MARCH 18 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

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NYC CRAFTED. BARBER INSPIRED. In 1967, Redken introduced one of the first professional grooming lines for men. Staying true to our heritage, the next generation of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essentials is here. Introducing Redken Brews, the complete destination for style, haircare, skin, beard and color solutions.Â 10 stylers with endless look potential. Beer-inspired, malt-infused haircare formulations. Skin solutions for shavers and non-shavers. No foil, no fuss 5-min. color service for men.

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OWN YOUR STrEnGTH YOu HavE THE TalEnT, wE HavE THE TOOlS. TranSfOrM YOur clIEnTS lIkE nEvEr bEfOrE. From coloring or lightening in salon, to take-home hair care, this complete line designed by Wella Professionals strengthens hair and reduces breakage by up to 95%.* *

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march 18 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

Features 50

Real Talk About Men’s Grooming A candid discussion about the state of men’s grooming with three of Canada’s leading men’s hair experts.

Making the Cut

Tool Kit

Collections

Refresh your barbering skills with the latest cutting and styling techniques.

Rounding up the top seven men’s cutting and styling tools.

Uros Mikic; Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team; Denis Robinson and Richard Tucker; Pete Goupil

66 FINALIST, CONTESSA 29 MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR: PETE GOUPIL, SALON ESPACE C, BROSSARD, QUE.

ON THE COVER: Hair: Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Vass Arvanitis Photo: Andrew O’Toole

m a r c h .1 8

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Regulars

64 DENIS ROBINSON AND RICHARD TUCKER, RUFFIANS, U.K.

Editor’s Letter

Publisher’s Note

SalonMagazine.ca

Hairlines

Contessa Gallery

Profile

62 TREVOR SORBIE ARTISTIC TEAM, U.K.

This month at SalonMagazine.ca.

The latest hair care, styling and colour launches to get you all set for spring.

Ian Daburn, Contessa 29 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year

The Bold Type, MJ Déziel

Business

Interiors

Events + Scoop

Best Nine

Get retail-ready with three tips to boost your bottom line.

Popping Up Shop: Johnny’s Barber + Shop, Calgary

46 PURPLE REIGN

JOHNNY’S BARBER + SHOP, CALGARY

m a r c h .1 8

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TEXTURE WITH STYLE

CREAM POMADE

BY AMERICAN CREW

™

@AMERICANCREWCANADA

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ANTI BREAK SUPER BLEACHING POWDER

EDITOR’S LETTER

Sign of the Times

en tend to be loyal clients. Whether their loyalty is to a fashion designer, restaurant or microbrewery, they all tend to have their signature favourites that they rely on time and

time again. Ask a guy to switch his brand in any of these or similar pillars and you’re likely to be met with severe glares and quick retorts. After all, when you find something that works, why change it? As we all know, men’s grooming has been a burgeoning market for several years. From hardline parts and fades, to beards and man-buns (and even braids!), we’ve seen a gradual shift, and it feels like the time is right for changing things up again. That’s one of the reasons we gathered two men’s hairstylists and a barber to talk about their

Today it is possible to perform a number of hair bleaching processes in one day while paying heed to the hair's health and reaching the desired results using the Anti Break Super Bleaching Powder. Anti Break Super Bleaching Powder can create a perfect light color shade while causing 86% less damage to the hair fiber compared to bleaching processes using traditional powder.

thoughts on what the next big trend will be for men (spoiler alert: hair colour, anyone?), and who is better for the business: barbers or hairstylists. The one thing they all agreed on? Education is the key to growing your business. More and more, hairstylists are learning from barbers, and barbers are taking cues from hairstyling techniques, and the result is that each profession is being elevated. With the dividing line among barbers and hairstylists continually thinning, everyone can build a men’s client base—no matter where you’re located. As one salon owner discovered in our Interiors story (on page 74), creating a pop-up location is a great way to test the waters in a new market. Another great way: Stocking your salon with the right tools, which we’ve hunted down (on page 58).

a little differently. Don’t be afraid to stretch your boundaries and try something new!

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

From start to finish, this issue is jammed with artistic inspiration that’s guaranteed to have you looking at your clients and their needs

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MIX IT UP W I T H MO ROCC A N O I L

VERSATILE , ARGAN OIL-INFUSED HAIR CARE AND STYLING ESSENTIALS THAT COMPLEMENT ANY EXISTING STYLIST TOOLBOX .

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 27 issue 2 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto

416.869.3131 ext.102

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie Gallant

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé

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MANAGING EDITOR

Veronica Boodhan 416.869.3131 ext.119 DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

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COPY EDITOR

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Crowning Glory

GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy

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hile I’m admittedly not much of a real-life royal watcher,

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111

though I admit to being a fan of the Netflix series, The

OFFICE MANAGER

Crown. I love the cinematography, the set design and

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.114

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OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE)

the fashion that’s featured throughout the decades. One episode in

Karren Han

particular that stands out for me is when His Royal Highness, Prince

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Philip, seems to have an issue with the Queen’s iconic hairstyle,

Adrian Holland

and the fact that it isn’t very modern. When he asked his sister-in-

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law, Princess Margaret, who was responsible for her new style, she mangled the name: “Sassoon.”

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While watching this unfold, I immediately thought of my favourite royal watcher, Alison McGill of Wedding Bells magazine and former editor of Salon Magazine. So, of course, I had to ask for her thoughts on this specific time in hair fashion. Her take: “The reference to Vidal

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Sassoon in The Crown was brilliant because it really offered a snapshot of that moment in history, and [shows] how Princess Margaret was

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so on point with her fashion-forward style, [which was] such a direct contrast to her sister, Queen Elizabeth.”

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Whether that scene was fiction or not, the episode is noteworthy for me because it reminds me that it doesn't matter who you are—if

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you don’t have a hairstyle that suits you, it’s just another bad hair day. A good hairstyle can transform a person and project any image they’re

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after. Case in point, says McGill, is the queen’s younger sister and her approach to style: “Margaret was the modern, rebel princess of the era with the posh and party-loving Sloane Ranger crowd.” The bottom line is, royal or not, a good hairstyle should never be undervalued. Whether you’re Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret, Princess Diana, Kate Middleton or Meghan Markle, or a non-royal who just wants to look great (and who doesn’t?), having a style that highlights your face and features in the best ways—physically and otherwise!—is vital. After all, hair isn’t called your crowning glory for nothing.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

who could have a fashionable cut, wear trendsetting clothes, and run

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online at

SO YOU THINK YOU CAN STYLE? Congratulations to Vancouver-based hairstylist Stewart Anderson, who won our “So You Think You Can Style?” Short & Sweet photo competition. Visit SalonMagazine.ca

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR/MAKEUP: STEWART ANDERSON, PHOTO: KELLI CHAN; AMERICAN CREW, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, KMS; COLLECTIONS CREDITS TONI & GUY,

to find out more about this winning look!

FASHION FORWARD Get a recap of the latest men’s

hairstyling trends seen worldwide at Men’s Fashion Week.

GO WITH THE CREATIVE FLOW Searching for inspiration? One of our largest archive collections, you’re sure to get your fix at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

SalonMag

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HAIRLINES NEWS

HAIR OF THE FUTURE

Colour Collab

American Crew takes volume to a new level with Tech Series.

Schwarzkopf Professional unites digital influencers with global colourists in its new Igora #RoyalTakeOver Dusted Rouge collection.

American Crew is introducing

Talk about a dream team! Combining

generation of style with its new

the creativity and expertise of

Tech Series. Comprised of three

Schwarzkopf Professional’s global colour

styling products—Control Foam,

ambassador Lesley Jennison with

Texture Foam and Boost Spray—

Brazilian colour specialist Jean Philippe

the line provides an arsenal of

Santos, the new Igora #RoyalTakeOver

products to take styles to new

Dusted Rouge collection includes

heights. Put some prep in your step

six ravishing shades ranging from

with the Boost Spray, which helps

copper shades to rich, vintage tones.

absorb excess oil, adds volume and

Making this launch even more “red

refreshes hair prior to styling. Not

hot” is the Pastelfier, a new creative

a fan of hairspray? Control Foam

booster that can be combined with

provides strong-to-high hold while

any Igora Royal shade to add extra

adding long-lasting control, volume

lift on virgin hair while transforming

and shine. Finally, Texture Foam,

pigment concentration to create

which provides shape and volume

customizable pastel shades. Check

to flat, boring hair with a flexible,

out #RoyalTakeOver on Instagram

medium hold.

and YouTube for more!

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: AMERICAN CREW, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

hairstylists and clients to the next

Better Bonding WELLA PROFESSIONALS INTRODUCES ITS FIRST IN-SALON AND AT-HOME BOND REPAIR SYSTEM. To bond or not to bond? Since bonding systems have quickly become part of the daily routine of many colourists, it’s time to get clients on board. Wella Professionals has simplified the bonding process by creating Wellaplex and Fusionplex, two comprehensive in-salon and at-home bond repair systems. Wellaplex is a three-step system including No1 Bond Maker, which helps create bonds, and includes a pH level of 9 or 10 for higher alkalinity to improve dye penetration and optimize colour life and performance. The lower pH level of the No2 Bond Stabilizer, balances the process and strengthens bonds and seals in colour. The No3 Hair Stabilizer is an at-home maintenance treatment for clients to use after their in-salon treatment to maintain results. Fusionplex offers three daily home routine products—Intense Repair Shampoo, Intense Repair Conditioner and Intense Repair Mask— each formulated with Silksteel Fusion technology that contains micronized lipids and amino acids for repairing damage, reducing breakage and protecting hair from the inside out. Wella also offers the Fusionplex Amino Refiller as an in-salon service to penetrate the hair’s cortex and replenish amino acids for superior conditioning and resilience to breakage.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

m a r c h .1 8

HAIRLINES NEWS

TWICE

NICE

GET BEACHY TEXTURE AND VOLUME WITH JOICO’S NEW BEACH SHAKE AND BODY SHAKE SPRAYS. As clients begin booking their summer vacations, help them “shake” things up with two of Joico’s latest products. Both dry-styling texture sprays have been designed to transform hair to bountiful beach waves and volume, thanks to bio-advanced peptide complex of keratin proteins that repair and protect hair. Beach Shake contains a blend of beeswax, coconut oil and sunflower seed oil, to nourish and hydrate hair while adding texture and shine, and Body Shake contains aluminum starch, crystal-clear resin and dry conditioners, which provide volume and conditioning with a lightweight, flexible finish.

New Brew

SILKY STYLE

Get a complete men’s hairstyling and grooming experience with Redken Brews.

Goldwell gives its Kerasilk portfolio a “stylish” boost.

No, this isn’t beer. Redken Brews is the

Kerasilk Style. Now, clients can have a complete Kerasilk

brand’s newly relaunched men’s line that

experience with seven new styling products that include

offering a fresh spin on haircare, colour,

Smoothing Sleek Spray, Forming Shape Spray, Texturizing

styling and grooming. Featuring crafted

Finish Spray, Accentuating Finish Crème, Enhancing

malt, the products nourish and condition

Curl Crème, Bodifying Volume Mousse and Fixing Effect

hair and have been designed to cater to

Hairspray. All products have been formulated with silk

Known for transforming frizzy, fluffy, rebellious hair, Goldwell’s Kerasilk is expanding with the addition of

men’s individual needs; from the menthol-

protein and KeraTransform Technology, and provide

infused Mint Shampoo for invigorating yet

lightweight, long-lasting results that are sure to elevate

soothing scalp stimulation, to the 3-in-1

your client’s traditional salon styling experience.

Shampoo, Conditioner and Body Wash, styling products (including a compact, super-charged hairspray!), make the line a must for every man. Plus, Color Camo, a five-minute colour service, is available in six natural-looking shades.

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOICO, GOLDWELL, REDKEN

the range of grooming essentials and 10

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Give Your Clients the Ultimate

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INFINITE SHINE Upgrade your client’s long-wear service with 4 nutrient-enriched treatment options designed to help strengthen, condition, smooth or brighten. Exclusively for use with the INFINITE SHINE 3-Step System that can last for up to 11 days with gel-like wear and shine.

HAIRLINES NEWS

Hit Refresh REV UP YOUR STYLES WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL’S NEW UNIQ ONE DRY SHAMPOO. One bottle, 10 benefits: Meet Revlon Professional’s Uniq One Dry Shampoo. Unlike many traditional dry shampoos, which are designed to revive dull, flat hair, the Uniq One Dry Shampoo offers 10 benefits ranging from absorbing excess oils and cleansing, to adding volume and texture. What clients will love is that it’s easy to use—simply spray, brush and go. Available in a full-sized 300mL spray or 75mL travel size, this dry shampoo is sure to be a hero product to rescuing those second (and third!) day styles between washes.

EXPRESS YO U R S E LF Sebastian Professional collaborates with model and influencer Tess Holliday on its latest campaign. When Sebastian Professional launched their

NEW YEAR, NEW YOU

search for the face of its #ShapeYourWorld

REDISCOVER THE NIOXIN RANGE WITH THESE RELAUNCHED 3-PART SYSTEM KITS.

of hairsprays to promote self-expression, it

with thinning hair stay on top of theirs with the new and improved Nioxin 3-Part System Kits. Designed to help achieve thicker and fuller results, each kit includes a Cleanser Shampoo, Scalp Therapy Conditioner and Scalp & Hair Treatment to boost hair from the root. There are six different kits to choose from, ranging from natural hair with light thinning to chemically treated hair with progressed thinning. Nioxin has also implemented the brand’s Pro-Color Shield Technology for sealing hair cuticles and shielding colour for up to 18 washes. To help prescribe the right kit for your client, Nioxin has introduced an online consultation tool with a short, four-question quiz that provides a hair diagnosis to determine which is best for their specific needs.

spirits with the brand’s beloved Shaper line was clear that Tess Holliday was a perfect fit. The plus-size model and body love activist has long been a trailblazer in empowering people of all shapes and sizes to embrace who they are. And after partnering with Sebastian Professional’s top artist Anthony Cress on a modern, must-have hairstyle, she shared her thoughts on the experience and her new role. “Anthony educated me through the entire process and I left feeling empowered and beautiful,” she says. “I’ve been using Sebastian for years and, as a plus-size model, I’m delighted they understand the importance of diversity and individuality in the beauty industry, where so often only a certain type of look is celebrated.” Sebastian Professional continues to seek out unique individuals who are pushing boundaries and experimenting with and creating new trends.

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: REVLON PROFESSIONAL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, NIOXIN

As we try and keep up with our New Year’s resolutions, you can help clients

campaign, a movement that unites creative

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HAIRLINES NEWS

MEET MITCH PAUL MITCHELL’S BELOVED MEN’S LINE HAS GOTTEN A MAKEOVER. The latest campaign for Mitch by Paul Mitchell reinforces the idea that grooming is easier than ever for all men, and features a range of “real” men and their unique stories. Take Steven, a musician featured in the brand’s campaign: “One word that describes my look is freedom. I’m a singer-songwriter who’s passionate about music, art and charity work, which I’ve been doing since I was young. I build platforms to help kids discover and do what they love. The thing I’m most proud of is writing and producing my first album—it all started with my journal.” Learn more about the Mitch men at mitchtheman.com.

FEEL-GOOD CARE Nourish hair and protect colour with Matrix’s Biolage R.A.W. Color Care Shampoo, Conditioner and Heat Styling Primer. Following the highly successful launch of Biolage R.A.W. shampoos last year, Matrix is introducing its new Color Care line. Combining the nourishing power of coconut milk with the antioxidant-enriched meadowfoam to gently cleanse hair, their shampoo and conditioner are formulated with three conditioning agents to detangle, smoothen and naturally thicken hair, while also helping to maintain shine and colour vibrancy. The Heat Styling Primer provides thermal heat protection (up to 450°F). And just like the rest of the Biolage is vegan and comprised of 98 per cent naturally derived ingredients, containing no sulfates, silicones, parabens or artificial colours.

dazzling

’DO

Help clients make a splash this season with Sexy Hair’s Fun Sexy Hair Mermaid Glow Getter Root Glitter Gel. With festival season on the horizon, get your creativity flowing with Sexy Hair’s Fun Sexy Hair Mermaid Glow Getter Root Glitter Gel. This limited-edition iridescent colour comes in a mess-free squeeze tube complete with a brushtip applicator. Whether it’s to enhance playful mermaid shades or add a pop of sparkle to braids and updos, this root glitter gel is sure to get your styles noticed.

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: PAUL MITCHELL, SEXY HAIR, MATRIX

R.A.W. family, the Color Care line-up

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

HAIRLINES NEWS

Beard Bound Refine your clients’ grooming routines with Brave & Bearded’s Wild Nature and Urban Style Beard Balm and Beard Oil Kits. Whether your client is more rough and tough or the sophisticated urban gentleman, Brave & Bearded’s Wild Nature and Urban Style Beard Balm and Beard Oil kits offer everything he needs. While both kits feature the brand’s Beard and Body Wash, the Beard Oil kits contain a Beard Oil and Beard Bristle Brush while the Beard Balm kits include a Beard Balm and a sandalwood beard comb. The earthy Wild Nature fragrance is inspired by the outdoors, with notes of sandalwood, bamboo and teak, while the fresh Urban Style fragrance features a deep musk base with hints of sparkling floral notes. Combining the great outdoors with notes that are fresh and refined, both kits have been designed to tailor to your client’s preference and style.

DO U BLE D UTY Discover the gamechanging benefits of Bosley Professional Strength’s new Bamboom Volumizing & Cleansing Powder. Combining the power to

This all-in-one barbering kit from Y.S. Park has everything you need to get the job done right.

Professional Strength’s Bamboom contains renewable bamboo charcoal to remove impurities, toxins and pollutants from hair, and its nourishing

Recognized for innovative and high-quality products, Y.S. Park

blend of panthenol, green

has built a loyal following of hairstylists and barbers around

tea, aloe and certified organic

the world that rely on the Japanese-made tools every day. The

tapioca starch provides volume

brand’s most recent launch, their new Barber Kit, combines five

and hydration while protecting

of the top barbering essentials. The Neck Fitter collar provides

hair from free radical damage.

a secure, professional way to offer clean cutting results. The

How does it work? Bamboom

Pro Sprayer is a durable bottle with a tin-weighted water tube

contains reduced particle

that purifies water by absorbing impurities and toxins. The Short

sizes—ranging from five to 25

Hair Design Comb (YS-252), Barber Comb (YS-209) and Clipper

microns—to allow for even

Comb (YS-282) take precision to the next level, and are made

distribution throughout hair

of ultem-plastic for durability (able to withstand up to 428˚F of

without any residue. It’s an

heat), while each comb is engineered with air holes to provide

environmentally friendly, non-

flexible control with a comfortable grip. With everything needed

aerosol spray that is cruelty-

to get your styling started, this kit is a must-have for barbers

free, and it’s free of GMOs and

and stylists of all skill levels.

fragrances making it perfect for clients with sensitive skin.

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: BRAVE & BEARDED, BOSLEY PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH,Y.S. PARK

BARBER IN A BOX

volumize and cleanse, Bosley

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HAIRLINES NAILS

Mindful Manis The days of black nails being perceived as “punk” or “goth” are long gone. At the 2018 Golden Globe Awards, celebrities

NEW YEAR, NEW NAILS

showed their support for the #TimesUp and #MeToo movements by wearing all black to the event. However, some celebrities took it a step further and showed their support with their nails. Celebrity

CND started 2018 with a bang, with the unveiling of its new

manicurist and OPI’s global brand ambassador, Tom

and improved Vinylux. The line of seven-day nail lacquers has

Bachik, created black manis for model Heidi Klum and

been reformulated and is now the first long-wear polish with

actress Kerry Washington. Klum wore OPI’s Black

a unique caring complex of keratin, jojoba oil and vitamin

Onyx and Washington went for a black OPI shade with a sequined accent nail. Other celebrities wearing black nails included actress Debra Messing, who opted for Essie’s Licorice, and actor Chris Sullivan, who made the bold statement of being the only man at the event sporting jet-black nails.

E. In other words, it cares for the nails from the inside out, Kerry Washington’s standout mani at this year’s Golden Globes.

while providing benefits of gel-like shine without the use of a lamp. This new formulation has also reduced the amount of thickening for a faster two-step application and drying time. All of the updated Vinylux shades include a new ergonomic brush that precisely glides over nails, making the application process easier than ever.

ORLY

MORGAN TAYLOR

BIO SCULPTURE GEL

CND

CHINA GLAZE

Unlock soft shades in Pastel City, a collection of metallic hues that include pink lavender Lilac City.

Time to “royal” out the red carpet with the Royal Temptations collection of metallic and crème colours, such as purple pearl All The Queen’s Bling.

Dream in colour with the Dreamers collection of rich, creamy hues like soft violet Wild Orchid.

Embrace the South Korean K-pop culture inspired Chic Shock collection, including lilac Gummi, which is available in CND’s newly rebranded Shellac and Vinylux packaging.

Help nails get on point with Chic Physique’s bold range of shades, including iridescent lavender Get It Right, Get It Bright.

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ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN “Shape up” your nails this season with the Mud, Sweat & Tears line, featuring shades like purple shimmer Train Dirty.

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: OPI, INSTAGRAM.COM, CND CANADA, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, CHINA GLAZE, BIO SCULPTURE GEL, MORGAN TAYLOR, ORLY

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HAIRLINES NAILS

What Men Want More men are discovering the importance of nail care. We get the lowdown from two leading “MANicurists” on what men really want from nail services.

t’s no secret that most men aren’t coming into the salon to try out the latest nail trend, but the fact remains that more guys are interested in taking care of their nails than ever before. So, what does that mean for

you? It’s all the more important to provide a superior experience and help them feel comfortable while they are in your salon. Here’s how.

BACK TO BASICS As with any nail service, setting the foundation for a manicure or pedicure is important, so it’s all about refining those basic manicuring skills of cleaning up cuticles, filing nails and providing a simple buff and shine. “The basics will take you anywhere,” says Tom Bachik, global brand ambassador for OPI. “A great manicure is not just about the polish, but about all the other things that come with it.”

TOM’S

PICK

“I remember using OPI’s Micro-

Bachik, who is known for his long list of celebrity clientele, says his unique

Exfoliating Hand Polish on Zac Efron

perspective into the world of male clients has helped him learn skills to adapt to

during a Hugo Boss commercial. He

the growing number of men visiting nail salons. “I’ve learned that it’s important

was getting his hands really dirty,

to be attentive and have a positive attitude,” he says. “It’s also important that

and I was able to clean them in

you’re dependable, consistent and there for your clients. Be willing to do the

between shots with this product.

work, and always be open to learning more.”

He actually thought the product was

John C. Nguyen, an education ambassador for CND, agrees. “Nail professionals should really focus on the true needs of the male clientele,” he says. “I find that my recommendations are always well received because I’m able to offer a different perspective.”

pretty cool, too.” — TOM BACHIK, GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR OPI

SETTING THE BAR While men may not require as much from their nail services, that doesn’t mean they aren’t looking for a premium experience. “It really only takes one great at New York Fashion Week and Roger’s Cup. “Communication is always the key to having success with your clients. It’s all about using your skillset and expertise to help them achieve their desired look and result.” Getting creative with nail services can assist with providing a personalized experience for men. Creating themed services, such as Heavy Duty for clients who work in intensive labour industries, such as construction, and may require a more intense service, or Nail Detox for clients who may have nail discolouration and damage to their nails. “Customizing a service can make it less intimidating for male clients and make it more specialized for their specific needs,” says Nguyen. “I think the majority of male clients start off wanting to be well groomed, but often get hooked on the pampering,” adds Bachik. “I get a lot of men saying, ‘I got a pedicure for the first time, and it was the best thing ever!’”

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JOHN’S

PICK

“The alpha-hydroxy acids in the Cuticle Eraser gently exfoliate cuticles and dry skin surrounding the nail plate to keep it soft and supple.” — JOHN C. NGUYEN, EDUCATION AMBASSADOR FOR CND

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, OPI, CND

service to get them hooked,” says Nguyen, who has worked behind the scenes

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HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

RUNWAYINSPIRED STYLE From windswept looks to sleek and structured styles, we’ve rounded up expert tips and must-have products to recreate the top trends from spring/ summer 2018 fashion weeks.

THE TREND: SCULPTURED BY DESIGN THE FIX: WELLA PROFESSIONALS EIMI SCULPT FORCE In traditional Parisian fashion, hairstyles shown on the catwalks of Paris Fashion Week were a far cry from the “au naturel” looks that have been running rampant on the runways. Instead, Eugene Souleiman, global creative director of care and styling for Wella Professionals, opted for a plastic-perfect sculptured look. Complementing designer Thom Browne’s sci-fi fairy tale-inspired show at London Fashion Week, the juxtaposition brought to life a futuristic aesthetic. Souleiman sectioned the hair and used Wella Professionals’ EIMI Sculpt Force to create an ultra-smooth, synthetic-like result.

THE TREND: DECONSTRUCTED AND DEMURE THE FIX: MOROCCANOIL DRY TEXTURE SPRAY Antonio Corral Calero, global ambassador for Moroccanoil, created ethereally romantic styles to highlight the ultra-feminine, Japanese-influenced collection by Marchesa at NYFW. Calero used Moroccanoil’s Dry Texture Spray

THE TREND: BRAIDED BEAUTY THE FIX: SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL MICROWEB FIBER

to give the voluminous French twist a windblown effect, which was contrasted with the show’s dramatic gowns for an effortlessly glam touch.

At NYFW, Sebastian Professional’s international artist Anthony Cole put a creative twist on the traditional low ponytail. Using the brand’s Microweb Fiber, an elastic texturizer for movement and texture, Cole incorporated intricate, four-strand weaving and braiding to coincide with the romantic yet progressive collection by designer Christian Siriano.

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THE TREND: ROSE QUARTZ THE FIX: REDKEN CITY BEATS In the world of wigs and extensions at NYFW, it’s extremely rare to see a true hair colour transformation on the runway. At Alexander Wang’s show, model Stella Lucia’s dark blonde locks were transformed to rose quartz, a colour created by Josh Wood, global with the brand’s City Beats semi-

THE TREND: RESORT READY THE FIX: CND VINYLUX

permanent hair colour. Rose quartz is

At Pucci’s spring/summer 2018

an ideal option for more apprehensive

show at Milan Fashion Week, CND

clients who may not yet be ready to

complemented the designer’s chic pool

embrace the ultra-violet vibrancy of

party themed show with soft, pastel

2018’s Pantone Colour of the Year, but

hues from the Chic Shock collection.

still want a fun (and semi-permanent)

With ombrés and soft colour-melted

springtime shade.

hues, the shades coincided beautifully

color creative director for Redken,

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, REDKEN, CND CANADA, MORGAN TAYLOR, ESSIE, MOROCCANOIL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

with Pucci’s iconic prints.

THE TREND: FLOWER POWER THE FIX: ESSIE Delicate floral nail designs were the perfect accessory to the romantic gowns showcased at the Michael

THE TREND: DAINTY DETAILS THE FIX: MORGAN TAYLOR

Costello show at NYFW. In keeping with

The accent nail continues to gain momentum in 2018, as seen at the

the designer’s modern, sexy aesthetic,

Self-Portait show at NYFW. The bohemian, ’70s-inspired collection

the nails featured a rose-gold flower

was paired with three distinctive nail looks. Our favourite? A dusty

design using Essie’s Penny Talk on top of

rose shade (Flirting with the Phantom), accented by a black (Little

the soft, beige base, Topless & Barefoot.

Black Dress) shooting star design—proving that the minimalistic nail

This trend is a great option to keep in

trend is far from over.

mind as clients head into bridal season.

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HAIRLINES COLOUR

Purple Reign Top colourists take the season’s hottest hue in completely different directions.

ltra violet has been named the Pantone Color of 2018. How will this translate into the world of hair colour? We asked two Contessa

winners their thoughts on the hue that’s definitely not

for shrinking violets. Purple is one of those amazing high-trend shades that can be used as a pure all-over colour to give hair that coveted fashion edge, looks fantastic when diluted to an almost imperceptible lilac wash, and can also be interpreted as a shadow root effect on silvery

1. THE FULL-ON FASHION STATEMENT The ideal client for this shade is someone who has an outgoing, sparkling personality, and is not timid about experimenting with hair colour. “I don’t like segregating clients into age categories, which I find restrictive, so this person can be 20 or 55 years old,” says Michelle Pargee, Goldwell North American guest artist and a multiple Contessa winner, including Master Colourist of the Year. “When I do a solid monochromatic ultra violet look, I like using different tones. Roots can be deep purple, the middle and ends might be enhanced with a blue-based purple, and then a brighter purple might be dispersed throughout, in panels.” Because it’s a very versatile colour, violet can be mixed with different shades, including coppers, for high contrast. “When you’re working with opposing colours, it creates a very edgy effect. Also, if you’re colour blocking it definitely creates an explosion of colour that punches,” explains JeanSébastien Chalut, a Revlon Professional platform artist and also the 2018 Contessa winner for Quebec Hairstylist of the Year who won the title with a collection (a collaboration with Tim Kuo and Loretta Tom, both also from Revlon Professional) featuring an intense violet. “For a great upkeep of the shade between appointments, I recommend my clients use Nutri Color Creme 200 Violet to refresh dulled hues and bring back a fabulous shine.”

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TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTOS: HAIR: MICHELLE PARGEE, MILICA SALONSPA, LANGLEY, B.C., MAKEUP: ASHLEY GESNER, PHOTOS: GREG SWALES; HAIR: MICHELLE PARGEE, MILICA SALONSPA, LANGLEY, B.C., MAKEUP: AKINA MCCREA, PHOTO: KALE FRIESEN;THINKSTOCK

blonde hair.

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2. TESTING OUT THE TREND “Ultra violet isn’t a full-on purple. It’s much more sophisticated and is cooler with a subtle blue undertone. I have been in love

with this colour for many years and featured it not only in my collections, but my own hair too. It complements most skin tones, so anyone can wear it”, says Pargee. “Surprisingly, violet hair colour suits many different skin tones and a wide array of natural hair colours, particularly if you want to use it as an accent,” echoes Chalut. For the average client who wants to test the waters of purple hair, Pargee recommends a type of placement in peeka-boo panels that can be seen in the natural movement of hair, or pop up (and become more pronounced) when the hair is in a ponytail or an updo. She adds that Colorance by Goldwell has a semi-permanent pastel indigo and pastel lavender shades that, “when mixed together in equal parts, make a gorgeous ultra violet perfect for those who want less commitment. It’s a true semi-permanent and slowly washes out. It also makes a great root shade on very pale blonde hair.”

3. THE POETIC PASTEL OPTION For a more subtle result, violet is very easy to incorporate in delicate strands when added to strategic areas for an elegant, understated effect, says Chalut. Another way to achieve this is to apply the colour tone on tone. “And if you want to be even more discreet, apply the shade with a babylights technique, which will give your client a very faint tint of violet,” he says. Having a clean “silverized” base of level nine or 10 hair is important to achieve the correct pale violet. “The colour needs to be on pale hair that doesn’t have strong gold tones to show its full potential,” Pargee says. “Applied in a glaze or very fine babylights will add just the right touch of glimmer for the client who’s timid about this new shade.” Subtle violet highlights are also lovely for those wanting to experience this trend without going overboard. Grey hair? It’s a fabulous base to add on any shade of violet! “If the client has salt and pepper hair, purple blends in almost naturally,” says Chalut. Pargee agrees, “I love pastel violets in grey because it’s flattering on most skin tones, but it’s always important to make sure you are applying it to a level nine or 10, adding a bit of grey pigment to cool it down.”

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m a r c h .1 8

HAIRLINES NEWS 1. WIND IT UP Master the natural, windswept look with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Osis+ Wind Touch, a flexible volumizing paste that boosts flat hair in a flash. schwarzkopf-professional.ca

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Our top picks for refreshing your men’s styling and grooming prowess this season.

3. SLEEKER THAN YOUR AVERAGE Get all the benefits of a pomade in a moisture-rich cream with American Crew’s Cream Pomade, providing light to medium hold and low shine. americancrew.com

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TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL C

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REAL TALK A B O U T M E N ’ S G R O O M I N G We gathered three men’s hairstyling pros—Edwin Johnston, Matty Conrad and Paul Pereira—for a discussion about the state of men’s grooming. As expected, there were no shortage of opinions, yet they all agree that the evolution of men’s grooming isn’t over yet. By Anna Lee Boschetto

Salon Magazine: Let’s talk about 2017. What was your favourite men’s style that really took hold and what is the one trend you want to see go away forever?

Matty Conrad: For 2017, we saw the mainstream acceptance of really clean-looking barbering styles. Hairstylists got better at creating really clean fades, and I think we saw that hit hard with the mainstream. What I noticed emerging was a lot of dishevelled texture and movement that looks a little less polished and less wet with more of a disheveled look, for more of a James Dean vibe. This is the precursor to having hair growing out—a little looser and less severe looking, more texture where hair moves around.

Edwin Johnston: I absolutely agree with Matty. Personally, I think we’ll see the fade go away for a while, but it is a part of men’s classic styling.

Paul Pereira: I really want to see the “man bun” with shaved sides. That whole look, just go away. While fades will remain a classic component of men’s hairstyling, Matty Conrad sees men’s hair trending towards a more textured James Dean-style look.

SM: What about braids for men? Is that a look you would like to see go away too or is that something cool that can live on or return if it does go away?

E.J.: Oh, absolutely go away. (Laughs) M.C.: Who started that, anyway? (Laughs) P.P.: (Laughs) Just for the record, I wasn’t really serious when I did the braid in that hairstyle. My photographer even looked at me and asked what braids had to do with a 1930s inspired men’s look. Then, the next day, he called me and it turned out to be the best shot.

M.C.: The first time you showed me, I thought, “Hey, now that’s cool,” and then suddenly it was everywhere.

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Paul Pereira’s 2014 NAHA winning collection featuring braids for men goes to show, sometimes you can’t predict what will spark a new trend.

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SM: Where are you looking for inspiration? M.C.: I’m looking more at the U.K. and specifically Kevin Luchmun, who I feel is at the forefront. I’m constantly looking at barbershops and what is going on around the globe. I’m inspired by the history of our industry.

P.P.: The work in the U.K., the whole focus on the early ’90s and now ’80s, Sixteen Candles and Depeche Mode and new wave punk.

SM: What do you all see as the distinction between barbering and hairstyling?

M.C.: What I’m noticing is an evolution of men knowing how to style their hair. In the mid-’90s there weren’t a lot of style-heavy looks, but now clients understand the products and get that they have to style their hair. I find that I’m spending time teaching barbers to be hairstylists more, and they are more sophisticated hairstylists and

Matty Conrad and Paul Pereira express their individual style onset shooting their collections.

barbers all around.

P.P.: At one time, only barbers cut amazing fades and hairstylists were better at styling hair. But now, we are seeing hairstylists like Matty going into the barbering world and barbers getting into hairstyling, so we see that blurring. In a salon, clients often pay more attention to their hair—that’s the biggest difference. Some guys might feel they need the help of a hairstylist to get a specific look.

M.C.: I completely agree with that, Paul. I think there still exists that idea that barbershops are for a fade and hair salons are more about style. Interestingly, this may not be factually based yet we all have that feeling. Although, there’s a good chance that barbershops may die off if that keeps up.

E.J.: One thing I’ve noticed is a huge increase in teenage boys in our salon. It’s this whole boy band revival—these kids are head-to-toe impeccably groomed. They are fussy clients, the most I’ve had in my life. It’s like this underground movement.

M.C.: Do you think that it’s because those guys weren’t old enough to remember the last time boy bands PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, PAUL PEREIRA, MATTY CONRAD

were popular?

E.J.: Yes, and that’s exactly what’s happening. The amount of time they spend on creating their look is incredible.

SM: So, what does everyone think about men’s hair colour? What’s the verdict on pigment colour and grey coverage?

M.C.: I’ve seriously changed my tune. With the return of silvers and greys and the metallic colours, I’ve seen more guys going with this, especially younger ones. As we get into more textured looks, colour makes sense. Also, I do see a huge surge in the number of guys wanting to reduce grey hair, but not completely eliminate it. Some go

Edwin Johnston finds that younger clients are requesting boy-band inspired looks as in Harry Styles of One Direction.

grey really early but they are pretty discreet about the service.

P.P.: I think we are running out of ideas for men’s haircuts. There’s a huge desire for people wanting their individual style and look. So looking to things like K-Pop and J-Pop globally, I think men’s hair colour is going to be it. Like with women, colour takes a great haircut to the next level.

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m a r c h .1 8

SM: When you look at celebrities and athletes, who are the men that have nailed it and are looking good right now?

P.P.: Guys are still looking to David Beckham, even now with his hair being a bit longer. I’m not looking at celebrities, necessarily. I was in Dublin and London recently and I found that the looks for cuts is forward texture and a lot of hair flopping forward with the younger crowd.

M.C.: Yeah, [Beckham] has been an icon since he hit the pitch and he’s been really good at going through different style cycles; not that every one has been a winner, but he goes for it. For me, I’d say Tom Hardy. He goes back and forth with facial hair, and he always has

Right: For Edwin Johnston, learning and refining your cutting skills is an essential, especially for creating versatility in men’s cuts. Below: Tom Hardy continues to change his style in a way that Matty Conrad says is always on or ahead of the trend.

interesting textures to his hair. For longer hair, Jason Momoa. He may be a bit of a contradiction from time to time, with the scar through his eyebrow, but he has a really masculine look with longer hair.

E.J.: I’d say Harry Styles is a real trendsetter for young men currently. SM: Do you use more barbering skills over hairstyling? M.C.: Some techniques are about using efficient shortcuts. I try to focus on the elements of the technique that give us the best tools to do that. For example, knowing when to use your texturizer and razor. It comes down to the right tools for the right job, regardless of techniques.

P.P.: Everything is blurred right now. Keep in mind the importance that styling, with a blow dryer and the right product, plays. Using the right product in the right hair type is just as important as the cut.

For Matty Conrad, deciding to focus on men’s hairstyling lead him to pursue his overarching passion for creating a new approach to barbering.

SM: What types of products do you now use more? P.P.: I’m using a lot of powders for the guys who have thinning hair. My younger clients use hairspray to get that effortless look.

M.C.: When I started out, a water- or petroleum-based pomade was the most important product for men. Now, matte products with less shine make it look like an effortlessly cool style.

E.J.: Hair is getting messier and longer, and the styling product that I have is a clay and a wax mixed together. It’s super matte, and that’s what I’ve been playing with for both hold and texture.

S.M.: What is the one thing you wish you could tell your younger self? M.C.: Look at the elements of what you do that you love. I realized I enjoyed men’s work and it was really a pivotal moment.

E.J.: Learn how to do it correct the first time. There’s an art and architecture, so understanding the hairline and shape, and learning those things correctly the first time.

P.P.: Be open. I had a point where the work I was doing evolved into doing more men’s styling. Then I found I had thinning hair, and I needed to find a new way to cut and style it better. I learned that and then I was able build around that for clients. So, really learn properly and the more you do do, the more weapons you have when working with your clients.

m a r c h .1 8

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MAKING THE CUT Spotlight on the latest men’s cutting and styling techniques, so you can up your game for 2018 in the barbershop, and create the cool new looks everyone will be wanting in no time! By Yasmin Grothé

f you’re following any trendy barbers on Instagram (particularly the ones based in Europe), go take a look at your feed right now. What do you see? Texture, longer hair and

fringes? Yes, we’re definitely at a crossroads when it comes to new shapes and haircuts for men.

THE EUROPEAN INFLUENCE This latest transformation for men (like so many other big hair trends over the decades!) has taken off in the U.K. more than in any other country, it seems. “I’ve been seeing this coming out of the U.K. for over a year and a half now,” says Tay Atelier (@TayAtelier on Instagram), Redken for Men artist and Y.S. Park Canada brand ambassador. “We’re seeing hair transition from very defined side parts and undercuts to a modern crop with much more texture on the top.” There’s a big shift in fringes coming, too. “It’s really short now, with a length of about two inches and sitting high on the forehead, definitely above the eyebrows. The inspiration comes from the Caesar haircut, but it’s done in a really modern way.” Europe,” says BaBylissPRO educator and freelance barber Sofia Pok (@staygold31 on Instagram). Traditionally, we’re used to seeing more of a square outline for men’s haircuts but now the shape is rounder and not based on cutting structure anymore. “That being said, hair is definitely longer but cleaner on the sides,” adds Pok.

HYBRID STYLES “At the salon where I work in Brampton, Ontario,” says Atelier, “we’re seeing very young, cool high school kids come in and want something drastically different they’re loving on social media that’s reminiscent of the ’80s. Perms are high on their radar and there’s a lot of movement in the hair.” For Pok, barbering is entering a new phase and merging with more traditional hairstyling. “Yes, there’s still a bit of that old

m a r c h .1 8

PHOTOS: HAIR: GARETH WEST, GARETH WEST HAIRDRESSING, U.K., MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, STYLING: JARED GREEN, PHOTO: JOHN RAWSON

“There’s a very fresh look in barbering right now coming from

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style barbering, but with a new finish and feel. A lot of the modern haircuts are not standard, and hybrid styles are really coming on strong.” What exactly are “hybrid styles”? The merge between barbering and hairstyling techniques are still making their way in the industry, and barbers should learn how to work and perform better with longer hair, says Atelier. “For instance, if your client isn’t ready to go for a perm, start working with hot tools—say a flat iron or a wand—to create those curls.”

TEXTURIZING IS KING Pomade used to be the big thing to finish a traditional barbering hairstyle. But, according to Pok, the trend now is for a puffier haircut, which you can easily achieve with point cutting. “Hair on the forehead is bigger and worn forward. So, to balance all that, you need to create more texture on the top of the head.” To create these looks, focus on clays, putties and sea salts, as well as curl lotions and products to retain curls while eliminating frizz. Also fading away are pompadours, particularly for the type of client who wants the latest and boldest hairstyles. “Keep in mind, though, that it always depends on the style of the client you have in your chair. The clean cuts do have staying power for the more classic and traditional man,” explains Atelier. PHOTOS: HAIR: GARETH WEST, GARETH WEST HAIRDRESSING, U.K., MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, STYLING: JARED GREEN, PHOTOS: JOHN RAWSON

The main thing to remember is to make a point of learning something new every year that takes you out of your comfort zone. Taking classes for cutting and styling longer hair may also be prudent as it’s an important time to cater to the very specific desires of a discerning male clientele. Fading and blending are still super important, says Pok, but the main thing is to understand the use of all the tools you have at your disposal and to practice as much as possible. “For instance, sometimes you don’t need to apply that much pressure on a clipper to get that kick-ass fade, but that’s learned [with much time and experience].”

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ANGUS MITCHELL

CO-OWNER AND INDUSTRY LEADER

Created for the modern man, MITCH® offers workable, long-lasting styles for everyday looks. High-performing ingredients and a clean scent make great grooming easy for every guy’s personal style. To learn more about MITCH® and see Angus Mitchell in action, visit mitchtheman.com.

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As trends come and go, a quality set of hairstyling tools is forever (or close to it, at least). Here are seven men’s styling saviours that will help you stay ahead of the curve.

Narrow 0.5-inch, contoured gold ceramic plates for precision

By Veronica Boodhan Pre-fixed optimal temperature setting of 365˚F TO N D E O C O M F O RT C UT R AZ O R

Automatic Ergonomically

sleep mode

designed handle for comfort and ease of use

Lightweight for easy handling

Includes attachable comb

ESQUIRE GROOMING FIVEVibration-

Patented comfort blade system provides quick and safe blade replacement

free razor

P I E C E TR I M M E R S ET F R O M FA R O U K SYSTE M S

with sliding functionality

Features five O LI V I A GA R D E N S I LKC UT X L

interchangeable

BA R B E R S C I S S O R S

blades: Detailing

“I have fairly big hands and usually struggle to find shears that fit. With the Silkcut XL Barber Scissors, the enlarged finger holes help a lot. They are hands down the best quality shears you can find for barbers,

T-Blade Stainless Steel, Wide Stainless Steel, U-Blade, Nose Hair Trimmer and Shaver

especially at a lower price point.” – RICARDO SANTIAGO, GLOBAL HAIR ARTIST AND EDUCATOR

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Cordless and lightweight with rechargeable base and power charger

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Removable filter

WA H L P R O F E S S I O N A L 5 STA R BA R B E R D RYE R

Powerful 1875-watt AC motor

Three heat and two Ergonomic handle

speed settings, plus

provides stable

a cool shot button

control and balance DENMAN ORIGINAL 7- R O W B R U S H

Carbon-steel blades provide 25 pounds of

“It allows me to

cutting torque with

create any look,

no jamming

9-ft. cord with hanging loop for

from a voluminous

easy usability

pompadour to a

and storage

slick comb-over. The anti-static rubber allows me to bend and shape the hair with ease and without damaging the hair. It’s an essential

BA BYLI S S P R O X 8 8 0 H I G H -

in my styling

F R E Q U E N CY, S U P E R C H A R G E D

arsenal.”

P I VOT M OTO R C LI P P E R

— HASSAN NASSER, AWARD-

Five-position

WINNING

taper lever

MEN’S

and eight

HAIRSTYLIST

cutting guides

High-quality all-metal housing for superior durability

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL C

AND OWNER OF AVALON SALON IN

Ferrari-designed high-

CALGARY

torque engine delivers 9,200 cuts per minute

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Textured styles with a vintage rock ‘n’ roll flair are showcased in this Australian Hair Expo award-winning collection. 60

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Indiev idualit y SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Hair: Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Vass Arvanitis Photos: Andrew O’Toole

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FUSION OF BEAUTY 62

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Combining the creativity and innovation of this renowned British artistic team, this collection showcases a range of textured styles and edgy colour placement.

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Hair: Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team, U.K. Makeup: Megumi Matsuno Photos: Jack Eames

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Hair: Denis Robinson and Richard Tucker, Ruffians, U.K. Makeup: Paul Haskell Styling: Callum Vincent Photos: Matt Holyoak

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Men w it h Dist i nct ion Featuring a multicultural array of men’s cuts, this British collection celebrates the range and growth of men’s hairstyling.

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COOL KIDS Coiffed cuts are contrasted with undone styles in this rock ‘n’ roll inspired collection.

Finalist, Contessa 29 Men’s Hairstylist of the Year: Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Makeup: Rainier Croft Styling: Ann-Marie Goupil Photos: Tina Picard

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CONTESSA GALLERY

CONTESSA 29 FINALIST MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Ian Daburn is a Vancouver-based barber and co-founder of Barber & Co, which is opening its second location in Toronto later this year.

IAN DABURN franchise to Canada and opened his own shop,

Co, a growing brand in Canada, Ian

iDaburn Salons, before launching Barber & Co in

Daburn “accidentally” found a creative

2011. “I’ve been keeping a close eye on men’s

outlet in competing. In addition to being a Contessa finalist for

trends as they have been progressing bigger and bigger. It’s unbelievable,” he says. “I feel blessed

Men’s Hairstylist of the Year, Daburn was also

that I got in at the right time.”

named one of the Canadian finalists at the 2017

REFORMED REBELS

North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA). “It just felt like it was my time to shine,” he says. “I’ve done a lot of progressive work throughout the years, but I’m getting a little older now so I just wanted to test myself.”

While many hairstylists find inspiration from the shiny youth of today, Daburn found himself inspired by something darker. “I wanted to portray good-looking young men that spent many years in youth detention programs but had a

FINDING HIS GROOVE

chance to re-establish themselves in society,” he

A third-generation barber from England, Daburn

explains. “My idea was to put them in front of a

actually began his career as a hairstylist and

white background in white suits and have a little

spent more than a decade working for Toni

more of an angelic feel, but you’re still seeing

& Guy in London. “I remember spending

their past in them with their tattoos.”

every day off at the academy just watching

For the hair, Daburn took a softer approach

and learning,” he recalls. “Then I worked my

to traditional barbering and incorporated

way onto the Toni & Guy education team and

men’s hairstyling techniques he has mastered

became one of the educators.”

throughout his career. “A lot of the work that

“My biggest mentor has to be Anthony Mascolo. I used to help him behind the scenes at photo shoots. I grew up as an amateur photographer, so he really helped me develop my photographic work.” It wasn’t until the year 2000 that Daburn moved to Vancouver to help bring the Toni & Guy

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Containing argan oil, this serum is lightweight and helps smooth hair by reducing flyaways.

inspires me comes from London,” he says. “I’ve been seeing the trend of the 1990s coming back and the reinvention of it. So, I thought I would just show a strong, edgy version, something a bit more on the extreme side, and then I wanted to do a commercial version, just to show everyone that you don’t necessarily have to wear these styles so strong.”

BARBER & CO TEXTURE PASTE

This dry clay paste helps create thicker strands of texture for a piecier finish.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL WILD STYLERS BY TECNI.ART BEACH WAVES TEXTURIZING SALT SPRAY Give hair extra grit with this salt spray that adds beachy texture for an effortlessly cool look.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, CREDITS HAIR: IAN DABURN, BARBER & CO, VANCOUVER; MAKEUP: PAM DABURN; STYLING: IAN DABURN; PHOTO: LIZ ROSA; AMERICAN CREW, BARBER & CO, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

s one of the co-founders of Barber &

AMERICAN CREW BEARD SERUM

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SALON PROFILE

The Bold Type In the traditional world of men’s grooming, one woman is doing things her own way. By Yasmin Grothé

J Déziel, a hairstylist based in Montreal, is making waves in the men’s segment across North America. Her sheer dedication to excellence in her craft has led her to becoming

a Redken international artist, and shortlisted her as a finalist in the 2018 Contessa Awards.

Salon Magazine: Did you always feel a calling to the beauty industry?

MJ Déziel: My mom worked for L’Oréal Canada, and they needed models for an ABA show. I instantly fell for the glam! Even though I studied photography and graphic design, I decided to take the one-year course to become a hairstylist. I figured I had nothing to lose and was obsessed about being on stage. I got hooked.

SM: Why specialize in men’s hairstyling? MJD: When you’re starting out as a junior hairstylist you usually get the walk-ins who happen to be mainly men. I love clippers and was better at haircutting than colour. I started getting a lot of references. At the time, Redken was also looking for a new men’s hairstylist to be part of their artistic team, and they had seen me compete at the ABA. This was in 2013, at the beginning of the big barbering trend, and it was serendipitious: I got chosen as the lead of their men’s education program.

and I’m one of the lead artists for the new Redken Brews education program, specializing in barbering and men’s trends. I co-created the looks and was part of the development of this new campaign, which is launching in March 2018 in the U.S. and Canadian markets.

SM: You are also part owner of a company offering beauty and wellness services in the corporate world. What’s this about?

MJD: It’s called The Regulars. The idea is to provide people who work long, intense hours with haircutting, hairstyling, massage or yoga services in their place of work. Our clients are corporations like Cirque du Soleil, Ubisoft, and other companies in the tech world that offer their employees many perks. We have a team of freelancers who drop in regularly to offer these services. It’s a great way to offer

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CONTESSA 29 FINALIST MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR: MAIREJUSTINE DEZIEL, FREELANCE, MONTREAL; MAKEUP: CELICA SEA; STYLING: FREDERIQUE LEGARE,’ PHOTOS: KELLY JACOB

SM: What is your current role with Redken? MJD: My title is international Redken artist and brand ambassador,

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young stylists another revenue stream on a regular basis. I’m a big believer in giving back and sharing with my community.

SM: You seem to have a keen business sense. Where does this come from, and why is it important in your career?

MJD: Doing things differently is very important to me. I grew up thinking that anything is possible. I’m surrounded with great people that I learn a lot from. Redken and my business partner believed in me. I guess my business sense has developed intuitively.

SM: Where do you see yourself going next?

MJD: I’d like to help my peers as much as possible. That’s why I enjoy education so much. I love sharing my passion with other stylists. Oh, and I definitely want to do more competitions! This Contessa entry was my first. I absolutely loved the entire experience, from the creative photo shoot, to the thrill of being at the gala. Next time I want to be on that stage accepting my award!

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SALON BUSINESS

THREE WAYS TO UP YOUR RETAIL GAME Give your bottom line a boost with these retailing strategies for your most loyal clients: Men.

very hairstylist is loyal to at least one specific product brand and just can’t get enough of trying out new ones. But when it comes to selling to their clients, it’s just not

happening. The worst part: It’s a big miss that could ultimately debilitate your salon or barbershop. “When you think about how many clients in salons and barbershops go to check-out without being told what products to buy, the number is not only

really the key. “With my clients, a good haircut or beard trim is

massive and scary, but it’s also squandering opportunities,” says

going to gives them the confidence to buy the product.“ Ducoff

Neil Ducoff, CEO of Strategies, a business coaching firm that

suggests stylists look at retail sales as one way of offering clients

has worked with professional beauty companies, salon owners

happiness in the form of product recommendations. “The more

and their teams for decades. In his experience, Pete Goupil, an

clients that receive professional advice about the best products

American Crew educator and barber based in Montreal, believes

for them, the more you’ll sell,” he says. This is particularly true for

that establishing a good rapport right from the beginning is key.

men who can become fiercely loyal to specific products once they

“When l bring a client to my chair, I ask about their morning

understand how to best use it to recreate their hairstyle at home.

how you can get over the challenges of selling and maximize your retailing opportunities.

FEAR OF FAILURE

HOW TO:

When it comes to retailing, being consistent with

every client is important, and Ducoff suggests making a recommendation of three products to help ensure your clients walk out having made a purchase.

Every hairstylist knows that promoting

BEGIN THE CONVERSATION

and selling retail products is the best way

“Every client service should begin with an

to earn more, yet it’s not an easy task for

overview of what’s going to happen during that

most. According to Ducoff, there are two key

visit,” says Ducoff. At some point during the

obstacles that hinder hairstylists when it comes to retailing: Fear of rejection and coming across as too pushy. With these two obstacles combined, “There is a level of discomfort to the point where stylists just avoid delivering a professional

conversation, hairstylists should be mentioning the products they will be using that clients can use for home care. For Goupil, an easy way to get the product conversation started is

recommendation,” he says.

by focusing on the changes in men’s product, such as explaining

HOW TO:

hold, such as creams and liquids. By talking about products at the

As with cutting and colouring, practice is key when it

the shift from clay-based products to those with more of a flexible

comes to retailing. Ducoff says, salon owners need to invest in

beginning of every appointment, products become a natural part

retail recommendation training. “You won’t see impressive retail

of the conversation with your client, removing any awkwardness

numbers simply by telling staff their number needs to be up,

a hairstylist may feel when making recommendations at the end

you need a system with leadership, standards of performance

of a service.

and accountability.”

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HOW TO:

As you’re styling your male clients, take the time to

DON’T SELL, BE HAPPY

walk through the specific products you’re using, how you’re

Hairstylists aren’t sales people, they’re creative

using them and the amount they will need to recreate their

people, which means they need to shift

look at home. Let’s face it: As a hairstylist, you couldn’t imagine

their perspective on retail sales and product

working without professional products, which means your

promotion. Goupil believes it’s the cut that is

clients shouldn’t have to either.

TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

rituals to figure out which product to use on their hair.” Here’s

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Details Opened in 2015 Design McKinley Burkart Space Johnny’s Last Best 142 square feet Johnny’s Henry Singer: 225 square feet

Website johnnysbarberandshop.com

PHOTOS: JOHNNY’S LAST BEST, JOHNNY’S HENRY SINGER

Team 6 barbers between both locations

Brands Bumble + Bumble Morris and Motley Oribe Proraso Shiner’s Gold ADH Crown Shaving Company Layrite

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Popping Up Shop One Calgary salon owner is taking men’s grooming in a bold, new direction. BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

en’s hairstyling and barbering had always been a passion for Jereme Bokitch. As the owner of Hedkandi

Salon and Butter Beauty Parlour, Bokitch had noticed Calgary’s barbering scene was growing in one direction only. “I thought we could offer a more unique and personal experience for men in Calgary,” he says. “We wanted to have a more modern take on the aesthetic of our spaces and the way the business operated.” Rather than opening one location, Bokitch opted to partner with a local pub and a high-end men’s clothier, and created two distinct pop-up barbershops within these existing locations. The result is a custom experience that Bokitch says regularly drives hundreds of additional guests to each of these two businesses.

ANOTHER ROUND At Johnny’s Last Best, clients are able to enjoy a pint while they wait or during a service. This location is staffed with a team of four barbers with a menu that includes men’s haircuts, colour services and cuts for tweens. “It’s a relaxed environment but can get a bit loud and exciting in the space, especially later in the evening when people stop by for drinks after work and hang out,” says Bokitch.

BESPOKE CUTTING Set in the new flagship Henry Singer store in Eighth Avenue Place, Johnny’s Henry Singer location is as custom as the clothier’s suiting. “The space is designed for men who are looking to escape the office for a little quiet retreat during their cut and shave,” says Bokitch. Featuring custom chestnut wood interiors and modern lighting, the space has a sleek, refined appeal.

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SALON EVENTS Fostering creativity in and out of your salon is essential, and the legendary Vivienne Mackinder inspired hairstylists with her Unlock Your Creativity keynote session.

Feeling the “Joi” from Joico’s Global Destination Education More than 1,000 hairstylists from around the world descended on Punta Cana, Dominican Republic for a week-long celebration of inspiration and education with Joico. With a roster of top international hairstylists, including the brand’s global artistic director Vivienne Mackinder and British Hairdresser Award winner Richard Mannah, the week was jammed with artist sessions that incorporated inspirational hairstyling ideas with innovative techniques that hairstylists were able to take back to their salons. WHEN & WHERE January 14-20 Punta Cana, Dominican

Republic In his highenergy and collaborative style, awardwinning hairstylist Richard Mannah brought his best in cutting and styling techniques, breaking down looks from his collections and showcasing easy editorial styling methods.

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International artists included Canada’s Melissa Duguay, celebrity colourist Denis de Souza and Zoe Carpenter along with international artists David Murray and Ryan NicolettiDowd.

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RapidLash®MD XL professional product now available in Canada! For healthier-looking, durable, and more luscious lashes in as little as 4 weeks A panel discussion featured influential hairstylists with major social media followings, including Jenny Strebe and Larissa Love, who fielded audience questions about building your brand and what they have learned along the way.

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SALON EVENTS

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SALON EVENTS

Giving Back by Giving Women a Million Chances Schwarzkopf Professional partnered with Dress for Success Toronto for Million Chances 2018, an event held at ASK Academy in Toronto. Dress for Success is a registered charity whose mission is to help women achieve economic independence by providing support, tools and attire to empower them, accessibility to tools for successfully finding work and support for women in transitional stages of their lives as they return to or enter the working world. More than 50 hairstylists volunteered their time by providing haircuts, colouring and styling to women embarking on new career paths. After having their hair styled, clients had the opportunity to have their makeup done and be part of a photo shoot, where they were able to leave with a headshot in preparation for entering or returning to the workforce.

WHEN & WHERE December 4, 2017, Toronto

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SALON SCOOP

1 ACCLAIMED ACQUISITION Kao USA Inc. has recently acquired Oribe Hair Care from Luxury Brand Partners. Kao USA Inc. is a subsidiary of Kao Corporation, a leader in beauty manufacturing and marketing with a portfolio of salon professional beauty brands including Goldwell and KMS. In addition to being a prestigious hair care brand, Oribe has expanded into skincare, makeup, tools and accessories. With the acquisition, Daniel Kaner, co-founder and co-president of Oribe, will be promoted to president.

2 NEW FACE Alterna Haircare has named Salvatore Leonetti its Canadian brand ambassador. Leonetti is a Toronto-based hairstylist and salon owner who has appeared on Cityline and has been part of the judging panel for the Contessa Awards. In his new role, Leonetti will be sharing his expert knowledge across Canada, teaching hairstylists and consumers tips and tricks of the trade.

3 A LIFE-CHANGING EVENT and Pivot Point International for the sixth annual Beauty Changes Lives Experience. Returning to the Art Institute of Chicago on Sunday, April 29, 2018, the event will unite up to 1,300 beauty professionals and enthusiasts, and begin with a Legacy Award Dinner honouring Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher, followed by the NextGen runway show with industry sponsors and influencers. For more information and to buy tickets, visit beautychangeslives.org/bcl-experience. T or

onto B arber

37 ce 19 and B eauty S uppl y S i n

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PHOTOS: ALTERNA HAIRCARE,TONI & GUY

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SALON SCOOP

REMEMBERING TONI MASCOLO Toni & Guy’s CEO and co-founder, Giuseppe “Toni” Mascolo, passed away in December 2017 at the age of 75. As one of the original cofounders of TIGI and label.m, Mascolo was recognized as a hairstyling icon with more than 50 years of industry experience. In celebration of his life, we reflect on some of the many highlights in his illustrious career.

1982

2000

2008

After their first

Mascolo and his brothers decided to

Mascolo became the

salon’s tremendous

demerge the Toni & Guy business:

recipient of an honourary

success, the

Mascolo, Sacha and Christian retained

OBE (Order of British Empire)

brothers opened the

ownership of Toni & Guy International,

by Queen Elizabeth II for his

second Toni & Guy

while Bruno and Anthony took over the

extraordinary services in the

salon in London.

ownership of Toni & Guy USA and TIGI.

British hair community.

1963

1979

1997

2005

Mascolo co-

Mascolo and Guy,

With the hopes of attracting a younger clientele, Mascolo

Mascolo and his daughter,

founded Toni & Guy

along with their

launched the Essensuals brand with his daughter, Sacha, as

Sacha, co-founded label.m,

with his brother,

brothers Bruno and

the brand’s creative director and son, Christian, as managing

a haircare brand inspired by

Gaetano “Guy”, in

Anthony, founded the

director. The brand opened more than 50 salons within two

London’s iconic pop culture

London, U.K.

TIGI haircare brand.

years, making it Mascolo’s fastest-growing business.

and fashion.

Devoted to beauty while beauty is being created.

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SALON BEST 9

Our #Best9 Men’s Haircuts and Styles From side fades to longer tops, men’s hairstyles have never been more versatile.

Keeping up on natural texture @mainvillemathieu

Hard part on the line @warrenforgs

Slick hair with a trendy beard. @kpcutshair

Pumped up mood and motion @paulpereira08

Greys for days on trend @guy_tang

Sharp lines and texture at play @dodcuts.

Rebel, rebel in full view @mattyconrad

Looking fresh! @danielleconcetta_hair PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

Classic cool with an edge @les_barbares

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Take your faves to the TOP!

Vote for a chance to win two tickets to the Contessa Awards gala on Sunday, November 4, 2018 in Toronto!

Voting begins April 9 readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, except residents of Quebec, who are at time of entry of age of majority in province/ territory of residence. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 9, 2018 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 22, 2018 ( “Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 23, 2018 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2019 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.

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