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M A K E T H E C U T: BE A BE T T E R MEN’S H A I R ST Y L IST
Man Made Style M A RC H 2 0 1 9
salonmagazine.ca
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INTRODUCING 4 NEW COLOR SYNC
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Versus previous Koleston Perfect. Valid for Koleston Perfect with Pure Balance Technology. FOR PEOPLE NOT ALLERGIC TO HAIR COLORANTS. Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always ask your stylist to perform an allergy alert test 48h before each coloration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult www.wella.com. If you have ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants, you should not color. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand.
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March 2019 38 F E AT U R E
A Jack of All Trades?
With more hairstylists deciding to specialize in men’s hairstyling or barbering, we get some expert advice on how being well-versed in both can elevate your craft.
40 F E AT U R E
Making the Cut: Women On Male Grooming
48 CONTE SSA 2019 F I N A L I S T, M E N ’ S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEA R , MJ DEZIEL , FR EELA NCE , MONTR EA L
“I love classic barbering and grooming, but you need to be versatile and have skills that adapt to every part of the category.”
While barbering may be considered a “man’s world,” more and more talented female barbers are taking the industry by storm. We get candid with the pros about their journey.
42 F E AT U R E
Taking a Liking to Long Since longer hair for men is sticking around for 2019, we’re helping you find out how to maximize this trend for your clientele.
45 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
Pete Goupil; MJ Deziel; IdHair International Art Team; Hassan Nasser; Marilyn Vendittelli; Jamie Stevens and Matt Cahill for Matrix
—DAVID RACCUGLIA, FOUNDER OF AMERICAN CREW HAIR: CURTIS CROSS, MAKEUP: NATHAN HEJL, STYLING: WILLIAM GRAPER, PHOTO: DAVID RACCUGLIA salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 11
46 14
Editor’s Letter
CONTE SSA 2019 F I N A L I S T, M E N ’ S H A IRSTYLIST OFTHE Y E A R , PETE GOU PI L , S A L O N E S PAC E C , B RO S S A R D , Q U E .
16
Publisher’s Note
18 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Want more? Don’t miss out on what we have lined up for online.
21 W H AT ’ S N E W
Hairlines
Time for a refresh! We’ve rounded up the latest care, styling and colour launches to get you all set for spring.
58 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Eric Charpentier
Find out how this Montrealbased hairstylist took his easygoing collection to the next level.
59 BUSINESS
Made to Measure for Men
Learn how customizing the salon experience for men can reap rewards for you and your clients.
60 P RO F I L E
Leading the Charge
An interview with American Crew’s founder, David Raccuglia.
62 INTER IORS
Creating Concrete Connections
Discover how this salon transformed its space to create a unique experience for its clients.
56
64
JA M I E S T E V E N S & M AT T CA H I L L F O R M AT R I X
W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
Scoop
66 SA LON STOR IE S
Barbers Who Feel Like Brothers
A candid conversation with Farzah Salehi (aka. The Happy Barber) and Schorem Barbers’ Rob Rietveld. 12 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
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Editor’s Letter —
INTRODUCES
As we put our men’s issue together, I found myself thinking about the guys in my life—my brother, my dad and some of my well-groomed male friends. Would the hairstyles we feature be ones they would gravitate towards? Will the latest product innovations make their lives easier? These are likely very similar questions to what you’re asking in your salon as you try to connect and resonate with each client coming through the door. As owner of Fort Saskatchewan’s Concrete Barbers, Chad Stewart knows this endeavour well. He’s found that it’s often the little things—like offering freshly baked muffins—that does much to impact and stay with your clientele. Check out his advice and how he created a standout salon space in this month’s Interiors feature on page 62. In this issue we also discuss the fact that more and more women are making waves in this area of the industry. In “Making the Cut: Women On Male Grooming” on page 40, the more female groomers we chatted with, the more it became clear that they bond easily with their male clientele, making the process of building loyalty less complicated than they’d ever imagined. And whether you’re a hairstylist or a barber, in “A Jack of All Trades?” on page 38, we also talk more about the skills you need to make your mark in the world of men’s grooming. We’ve also got our annual Reader’s Choice Awards coming up. This is your chance to vote for your top pick that may make a difference in the way you care for your clients, too!
BIOSCULPTURENAILS.COM | 1-877-424-6435 14 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
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Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 2 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca
Publisher’s Note —
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Josiah Gordon
GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Greg Robins greg@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca
Finding Your Way
Laura Dunphy Publisher
16 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
During these cold winter months, it’s not uncommon for people to feel the need to hibernate. Personally, I love this time of year in our industry because it’s when training and hair shows ramp up, creating a palpable buzz in the air with announcements of product launches and salon activities. I recently attended a national meeting for Redken and met an impressive young woman named Carley Smith. I chatted with her the night she won the award for Technical Sales Advisor of the Year, and I was struck by her enthusiasm and sincerity. During dinner we discussed her career and she openly admitted that she’s had her share of peaks and valleys. She told me that, at one point, despite loving hairstyling, she’d lost some of her fire for her work, which is why she decided to try a different sector of the industry. “I knew it might take a few years to [get ahead in a new category of work], but sometimes you have to have different experiences,” she says. Ultimately, it was her drive and effective networking abilities that led to her current role in technical education, and she’s never looked back. We all can identify with the fact that sometimes change is very difficult, and I truly admire Carley for taking charge of her career. As we spoke it was clear to me that her decision to try something new wasn’t about landing a specific job, but rather about finding her passion once again. She understood she had to make some tough choices and determined that she would. I find that to be so inspirational. Long story short: Being open to opportunities that are outside the box is key, regardless of your career path. In my experience, it’s not always about your technical ability; your attitude and willingness to get involved do much to chart a new course in ways we often can’t foresee. Even if you don’t know how to begin making changes, simply surrounding yourself with positive people and/or seeking out a mentor for support can help. Keep in mind that everyone loves to spot talent—from salon owners to distributor partners to other technical advisors—and chances are good that once you take a step into the unknown, you’ll find many who are willing to help you along the way.
PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca
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Inspiration Station Need some inspiration or motivation for your next photoshoot? Check out SalonMagazine.ca’s collection archives.
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Celebrity Style Get inspired with looks that rocked the runway during awards season with celebrity hair colour and style how-tos.
18 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
So You Think You Can Style? Congratulations to Potrus Potrus, from Mississauga, Ont., the winner of our latest So You Think You Can Style? “Vroom & Groom” contest, sponsored by American Crew. To find out what inspired this winning look, visit SalonMagazine.ca.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: POTRUS POTRUS, DONATO SALON + SPA, MISSISSAUGA, ONT, MAKEUP: MARIAM MICHAEL, PHOTO: EMANUEL PIRES; HAIR: LAUREN SORENSEN, MAKEUP: BRAD VAN DYKE, STYLING: HEIDI GRESS PHOTOS: KEITH BRYCE; INSTAGRAM/GETTY;
We spoke with Sara Sampaio, brand ambassador for Moroccanoil and Victoria’s Secret Angel, for the model’s hair tips and tricks she’s learned from the pros.
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Make the IT List! Vote for your favourite products for a chance to win 2 tickets to the Contessa Awards gala on Sunday, November 10, 2019 in Toronto!
Voting begins
April 15
READER’S CHOICE AWARDS
readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, who are of age of majority in province/territory of residence at time of entry. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 15, 2019 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 29, 2019 (“Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 30, 2019 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2019 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room at the Westin Harbour Castle, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.
GET A JUMP START ON SPRING WITH THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES, LINE EXTENSIONS AND STYLES. ➣
PHOTO: KEVIN.MURPHY
For Kevin.Murphy’s 2019 colour collection, Crystal.Twilight, the brand’s hair team (including Session.Master James Nicholson) created a range of unconventional party looks that have been brought to life in a Baroque castle, featuring crystal chandeliers and marbled walls. Directed by the brand’s founder Kevin Murphy and Color.Me design director Kate Reid, the collection also features a rainbow of crystal-inspired, psychedelic hair colour.
To find out how to create the Ashe look (pictured) and to see more from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 21
Seeing Red Hairlines — NEWS
Turn up the heat this season with the new Revlonissimo Color Sublime Intense Reds & Coppers. Revlon Professional has launched three new permanent, ammonia-free shades, which are formulated with C5 colourants for intense colour and longevity. The new shades have been brought to life in the brand’s new collection, Redvolution, which features graphic reds, earthy coppers and a vibrant copper look inspired by the late ’80s. Color Sublime Intense Reds & Coppers line is also introducing the line’s latest fragrance, Rising Bloom, which includes a blend of fruity and floral notes. This fragrance joins the Color Sublime fragrance portfolio of Sunset Mood, Sweet Gourmet and Zen Moment to offer clients a more customizable and sensory colour experience. THE RISING BLOOM FRAGRANCE INCLUDES VIOLET, ORRIS, CHERRY, PEAR, PASSIONFRUIT, PINEAPPLE, VANILLA, MUSK AND VETIVER.
Time to Recharge Boost and transform hair with Wella Professionals’ new Invigo. Just in time for spring, Wella has introduced Invigo–a highperformance care line designed to revive hair and improve its overall condition. Thanks to its Invigo-Blends, a triple threat of advanced technology, ingredients and vitamins, Invigo not only stimulates your hair but also your well-being. And with six care lines, there’s something for all hair types:
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Volume Boost offers lightweight volume and lift.
I N T RO D U C I N G …
Meet the new and improved Tecni.Art by L’Oréal Professionnel.
|
—
| Balance refreshes hair for healthylooking results.
| Brilliance provides up to seven weeks of colour protection and vibrancy.
Blonde Recharge helps fight brassiness and preserve brightness in blonde colour.
PLUS, THERE ARE THREE IN-SALON TREATMENTS– BRILLIANCE BOOSTER ENHANCES COLOUR VIBRANCY; NUTRI BOOSTER PROVIDES EXTRA NOURISHMENT TO DRY, DULL HAIR; VOLUME BOOSTER TRANSFORMS FLAT HAIR INTO VOLUMINOUS RESULTS.
22 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
The brand aims to bring the “pro” back to its beloved styling line, with revamped packaging that’s sleeker and colour-coded in white, grey or black. The line includes four new reformulations: Ring Light Pure, an ultra-fine shine spray, Air Fix Pure, an extra-strong hairspray, Fix Anti-Frizz Pure, a frizz-reducing spray, and Savage Panache Pure, a powder spray.
PHOTOS: REVLON PROFESSIONAL, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
Nutri Enrich nourishes hair for smoother looks.
Poetry*
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CND, SHELLAC LUXE, SHELLAC and VINYLUX are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2018 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail artist: Shelena Robinson. *Poetry and Antique are available only for CND™ Shellac Luxe™ and CND™ Vinylux™. **CND™ SHELLAC™ and CND™ VINYLUX™
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An elegant romance made for daydreams.
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READER’S
CHOICE AWARDS
WINNER 2018
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Hairlines — NEWS
Mermaid Magic
Make waves with your hair colour this season with Matrix’s new SoColor Cult, Cool Aquatics. With three new cool shades—Aqua Bay, Tropical Violet and Starfish Coral—they are perfect for creating those mermaid and unicorn looks that clients (and social media) can’t seem to get enough of. The three shades are available in demi- and semipermanent. However, Starfish Coral is also available in permanent. And, in case you missed it, coral is the Pantone Color of the Year so you’re bound to have clients that will want to hang onto that shade for most of the year.
➣ SMOOTH CR IMINA L
Get sleeker-looking results with Alterna’s new Smoothing Anti-Frizz range.
Gray and Gorgeous Help all shades of gray (and silver) maintain and strengthen their locks with Redken’s Color Extend Graydiant. Calling all silver foxes! For clients looking to nourish their natural or colour-treated grey and silver hair, Redken’s Color Extend Graydiant is formulated with amino acids and direct dyes to help neutralize unwanted yellow tones and deposit silver pigments for lustrous results. 24 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
PHOTOS: MATRIX, REDKEN, ALTERNA
The five-piece product line features Smoothing Anti-Frizz Shampoo, Conditioner, Blowout Butter, Dry Oil Mist and Nourishing Oil to reduce frizz by more than 80 per cent, for up to 72 hours of smooth and shiny results. The line is formulated with the brand’s signature caviar extract and nourishing oils that also help protect hair from humidity.
NEW
HYDR A T E C O L OR WELLNESS COLLECTION This collection ensures color success and infuses vital moisture while an advanced color-lock complex protects and extends color vibrancy and longevity. • • • •
Advanced color-lock technology to help fight fade A hydrating formula for all hair types Amplifies color brilliance Luxurious lather
Formulated without gluten, sulfate surfactants and parabens. • MalibuC.com • Follow Us
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Great Lengths adds seven more shades to its hair extensions repertoire. The brand’s latest shades include blonde and brunette tones, reds and coppers, charcoal gray with highlights, and the avant-garde Mother of Pearl (pictured), which features a pastel mix of silver-grey and pink for a shiny, reflective result.
DA M AG E C O N T RO L
Protect and strengthen bonds like never before with Joico’s Defy Damage. It goes without saying that protecting hair’s integrity, especially during a colour service, is paramount. And a big part of that means protecting and strengthening bonds in the hair. Joico’s new Defy Damage is an in-salon treatment and home care system that’s changing the game, thanks to its SmartRelease Technology, a unique liposome delivery system that continuously releases a triple-threat of rosehip oil, arginine and keratin. The Defy Damage ProSeries is a two-step insalon treatment. The ProSeries 1 Bond Protecting Color Optimizer Spray is an innovation that’s already making waves in the industry. The ultra-dry spray provides an instant shield to protect hair from chemical damage while improving colour deposit as well as provides greater lift when lightening. The ProSeries 2 Bond Strengthening Color Treatment replenishes bonds while strengthening and hydrating hair for healthier-looking hair that’s more resistant to damage, even after just one use. For clients to maintain the results, the Defy Damage four-piece home care system includes a Protective Shampoo, Conditioner, Masque and Shield. TO LEARN MORE ABOUT DEFY DAMAGE, VISIT JOICO.COM/DDVR
26 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
Make Your Mark! It’s time to show off your skills for the 2019 American Crew All-Star Challenge. It’s that time of the year— an opportunity to put your men’s hairstyling skills to the test with the 2019 American Crew All-Star Challenge. This photo-based competition challenges hairstylists to put their creative spin on the iconic “American Crew man” for a chance to win an all-expenses paid trip, in which they will compete against hairstylists from around the world to be named the global champion. If that’s not incentive enough, there’s also a $10,000 cash prize! In celebration of American Crew’s 25th anniversary this year, the AllStar Challenge will be held in May in New York City. “We’ve really seen the talent and creativity of the stylists evolve exponentially year after year. It’s incredible,” says David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew. “We’re so excited to bring the All-Star Challenge back to the U.S. The energy of New York will undoubtedly be a catalyst for even more inventiveness during the competition.” The deadline to enter is March 1, 2019.
PHOTOS: GREAT LENGTHS, AMERICAN CREW, JOICO
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Hairlines — NEWS
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Coming Soon: Contessa 2020!
Hairlines — NEWS
Find out everything you need to know about what is (and isn’t) allowed in this year’s competition. Save the Date Sunday, November 10, 2019 Location Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre, Toronto Updates to Rules (Important!) 1 Photoshopping 101 The Contessa Awards encourage you to express your artistic creativity; however this should not be done in post-production. Avoid digital manipulation of the colour and shape of the hair (in other words: don’t use any photographic filters and effects that alter the hair colour and shape). 2 Reminder Do not retouch your un-retouched photo! Though this isn’t a new rule, we want to express that this is a serious violation and can lead to your entry receiving demerit points and/or being disqualified.
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3 Sharing of Collections Photos entered into the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year category can now also be entered into the Canadian Colourist of the Year category.
Styling Quartet
TO SEE THE FULL CONTESSA 2020 RULES AND REGULATIONS, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA
Problem: Can’t Take the Heat? Solution: Thermo-Protector This ultra-fine heat protecting spray features a blend of quinoa, along with silk and milk proteins to protect hair and colour from blow-drying, flat iron and curling wands. Problem: At a Loss of Gloss? Solution: Let It Shine This softening glossing spray includes a super-fine mist that gives hair irresistible shine and softness, thermal protection and prevents static. Problem: Hair in Need of “Conscious” Control? Solution: Strong Eco Hairspray This quick-drying, extra-hold hairspray not only helps to lock in styles while delivering long-lasting volume and shine, but it also protects hair from humidity and environmental stressors. Plus, it’s eco-friendly and designed specifically for colour-treated hair.
28 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
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Problem: Curves that Won’t Behave? Solution: Curl Perfectionist This curl defining cream keep curls in check by taming and defining curls, along with reducing frizz to enhance hair’s natural texture.
Customized Care How TIGI’s Copyright Care is helping hairstylists feel more empowered. We know that when it comes to getting some clients onboard with professional, at-home care products, the struggle is real. That’s why TIGI wants to empower hairstylists to provide more clients with more customizable product recommendations. Introducing Copyright Care, the brand’s extensive range of care products including Clarify, Volume, Colour, Toning, Moisture and Repair. In addition to shampoo and conditioner, Copyright Care also includes customizable backbar treatments—Shine Booster, Smooth Booster, Repair Booster—that are intermixable and added to the Treatment Base, which is formulated with TIGI’s vitamin complex, keratin and shea butter. And for damaged hair, the Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment is infused with 100-times the amount of keratin than shampoo and conditioner to repair internal damage and restore it to virgin hair condition in five minutes.
PHOTOS: CONTESSA 30 FINALIST CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR SILAS TSANG, BLUSHES, OTTAWA, MAKEUP: LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS, PHOTO: JOGN RAWSON; TIGI, MILK_SHAKE
Find out how milk_ shake’s Lifestyling line is addressing common styling concerns.
From Toronto and New York to London and Paris, hairstyling trends ruled the runways and offered some major #hairinspo for upcoming seasons. Find out how to recreate these looks for your clients.
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Hairlines — TREND REPORT
Runway Report: Spring/Summer 2019
Gypsy Girls
Getting Knotty Amika Curl Corps Enhancing Gel and First Base Moisturizing Styling Cream Ponytails aren’t going anywhere, but this look by hairstylist Esther Langham for Ulla Johnson’s NYFW show is next level. Applying a cocktail of Amika’s Curl Corps Enhancing Gel and First Base Moisturizing Styling Cream to the roots and mid-lengths, hair was controlled and ultra-defined before knotting.
30 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
This braided yet slightly dishevelled look from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s London Fashion Week show is giving us major festival hair inspo. Eugene Souleiman, global director of creative care and styling for Wella Professionals, used the brand’s EIMI Stay Firm hairspray to mould hair to the crown and create these effortlessly cool styles.
FOR MORE LOOKS FROM FASHION WEEKS AROUND THE WORLD, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, KMS, MOROCCANOIL, REDKEN, AMIKA
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Wella EIMI Stay Firm
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Island Vibes
Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse
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Wet styles were everywhere at Fashion Week, but our favourite has to be from Veronica Beard’s NYFW show. Kevin Hughes, artistic director for Moroccanoil, drew inspiration from women returning to work from a tropical island getaway who are still sporting their vacation glow. He used a generous amount of the brand’s Curl Control Mousse before and after diffusing with a blow-dryer, to give hair that wet, lived-in look.
Textured Tresses KMS Hairplay Sea Salt Spray Effortless texture is another trend continuing into 2019, as seen at Peter Pilotto at London Fashion Week. Hairstylist Jawara for KMS applied the brand’s Hairplay Sea Salt Spray to the mid-lengths and ends to create a natural finish.
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Romantic Twist Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist We always love a great runway updo. Oozing with elegance and romantic, this Italian twist, featuring a loosely braided front crown (complete with rosettes) for Zoff’s show at Toronto Fashion Week didn’t disappoint. Jorge Joao, international Redken artist and lead stylist, used the brand’s Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist to set the look with a medium hold and an ultra-glossy finish. Note: This look is perfect to keep in mind with bridal season just around the corner!
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 31
PA N T O N E P E R F E C T I O N
SOFT A ND SMOOTH
Give Nails Spa-Inspired Care with OPI’s ProSpa. Hairlines — NAILS
Creating a relaxing nail service experience for clients comes down to the details. OPI’s ProSpa line offers a skincare approach to hands and feet, and is introducing its ProSpa Advanced Softening Gloves and ProSpa Advanced Softening Socks. Both are single-use and contain macadamia and coconut oils for superior hydration, and nourishing Vitamin E and shea butter that can help soften even extremely dry skin. Each features removable tips, allowing nail techs to provide cuticle services while simultaneously conditioning the hands and feet.
Artistic Nail Design No Pain, No Gain! Words to live by when tackling your new year #fitnessgoals, but also the name of this light peach crème shade.
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
China Glaze I Just Can’t Aloupe is a fruity take on the Pantone Color of the Year that’s both springy and sweet.
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Morgan Taylor Don’t be shy when it comes to this vibrant Color Me Bold shade—perfect for spring and summer!
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Nailing the Runway Models at Spring/Summer 2019 Fashion Week debuted a few of season’s hottest nail trends, along with a few whimsical #nailinspo looks to get you thinking outside the box. 1 At Libertine’s NYFW show, inspired by oldworld Victorian love stories, CND’s Design Team created nails featuring antique rose designs, gold frames and pearls. 2 CND’s Design Team went for the wicked for The Blonds’ NYFW show, inspired by Disney villains, where nails featured a range of spikes, studs and gems. 3 At London Fashion Week, Mary Katrantzou’s show (in celebration of the designer’s 10th anniversary) featured four nail looks from the CND Design Team, including a range of glassinspired nails. 32 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
4 For Rodarte’s NYFW show, Eichi Matsunaga, lead artist for Morgan Taylor, created a range of metallic looks embellished with crystals. 5 For Opening Ceremony’s NYFW show, it was all about “gingham style.” Celebrity manicurist Julie Kandalec crafted this look, paying homage to one of the season’s hottest fashion trends that’s crossed over to nails. 6 Graphic prints were also big at NYFW. One of our faves was this playful scribble design by Miss Pop for Moschino.
CND We’re feeling the heat of Desert Poppy, a punch of orange colour with a hint of shimmer.
OPI Now You Museum Now You Don’t is an orange-red shade that’s sure to sparkle in (and out of) the sunlight.
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: OPI, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, CHINA GLAZE, MORGANTAYLOR, THINKSTOCK, BIO SCULPTURE, CND, INSTAGRAM.COM
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Hairlines — NAILS
WHETHER IT’S TO ACHIEVE LONGER LENGTHS OR JUST A LONGER-LASTING MANICURE, IT ALL BEGINS WITH HEALTHY NATURAL NAILS. WE ASKED THE EXPERTS FOR TIPS ON HOW TO START THE DISCUSSION WITH CLIENTS AND HELP THEM IMPROVE THEIR NAIL CONDITION.
Covering the Bases As any seasoned nail tech can vouch, some clients may have been blessed with naturally long and strong talons, while others have to work hard at growing and maintaining healthy nails. The good news: There are a few simple things you can do to help clients improve their nail health. “The main problem is the hydration,” says Liliya Leheta, an education ambassador for CND. “If nails are prone to breakage, it means they have a lack of moisture. Keeping nails hydrated should be your—and your client’s—top priority, regardless of whether they are a man or a woman.” Addressing the Problem “Dehydrated and brittle nails can be caused by a variety of factors, including aging, environmental factors, previous nail services or exposure to harsh ingredients,” says Sarah Melanson, a Maritimesbased senior educator for Bio Sculpture. From brittleness to peeling to white spots, nails in poor health can affect the duration of the client’s nail service, making it all the more important for you to help them correct their nail issues. “To start, you need a good base to put the polish on or it’s not going to last,” says Leheta. “If you’re dealing with peeling nails and you apply [gel polish] on top, the piece that’s peeling is going to come off eventually.” “Because nails are made up of layers of keratin, when they peel there are gaps forming between the keratin,” adds Leheta. “These empty gaps between the layers make nails brittle and more prone to breakage.” While adding services like paraffin treatments to your salon’s menu can help moisturize very dry
THE ESSENTIALS The experts share their top product picks to improve nail health.
Bio Sculpture Ethos Kiwi Scrub This exfoliating scrub removes dead nail cells and moisturizes after polish or gel removal.
skin and nails, it’s important to use treatments that are applied directly to nails for a prolonged time in order for them to absorb and retain moisture. Leheta recommends strengthening weak and damaged nails with CND’s RescueRxx treatment, a daily keratin treatment that reduces peeling and white spots in one to four weeks. “It needs to be applied to natural nails without any polish on them,” she advises. “The keratin protein bonds to natural nails and makes them stronger while restoring moisture inside.” Staying Consistent While you may have little control over your clients’ nail care regimen once they leave your salon, arming them with critical information and facts that they didn’t know about nails can greatly impact their at-home routine. “When you start talking about it with your clients, they will see that you care,” adds Leheta. PRO TIP MELANSON RECOMMENDS THAT TECHNICIANS BOOK CLIENTS MORE FREQUENTLY (WITH SHORTER TIMES BETWEEN SERVICE APPOINTMENTS) TO HELP MONITOR THE HEALTH OF THE CLIENT’S NAILS.
CND Solar Oil This tried-and-true conditioning treatment is applied after the nail service to deeply penetrate the nails to strengthen and add flexibility, while also moisturizing cuticles and skin.
“Many of our products that are retailed for home use are also used during the salon visit, so clients are familiar with them and feel confident in their purchases—making the retail of home care items that much easier for the technician,” says Melanson. “Being up-to-date on these items will lead to better service and care for clients—and ultimately healthier nails!”
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 33
Hairlines — COLOUR
➣ WITH PANTONE’S COLOR OF THE YEAR SETTING THE “TONE” FOR 2019, FIND OUT HOW TO MAXIMIZE THIS SHADE FOR YOUR COLOUR SERVICES.
From pastel pinks to peach to “blorange,” we’ve been seeing hair colour trends inch closer and closer to Pantone’s 2019 Color of the Year: Living Coral. While thoughts of summer may come to mind, the shade is a lot more versatile than you may think—allowing you to create something that’s beachy and beautiful for all seasons. Watch Your Tone To achieve Living Coral, it’s all about hitting that sweet spot between pink and orange that will have your clients rocking 2019’s “it” shade—the right way. “It can definitely be a bit trickier to find something that’s not too orange and not too pink,” says Krysten-Ashley Garrod, a colourist at Studio Fontana in Toronto, and guest artist for Goldwell. “I think the biggest thing is understanding the level that you’re putting the colour on, and what you’re starting with. If you’re starting with a completely clean, [lifted] base, it’s a lot easier to achieve. But if you’re starting with something with more of an orange or pink base, then it’s about figuring out what you are missing.” PRO TIP INCREASE YOUR COLOUR REVENUE BY OFFERING A TONING SERVICE TO CORAL CLIENTS. “IF YOUR CLIENT IS COMING IN FOR AN ALL-OVER VIVID OR PASTEL COLOUR EVERY SIX WEEKS, THEY NEED TO BE COMING IN ABOUT HALF THAT TIME—EVERY THREE OR FOUR WEEKS—FOR A
34 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
HERO PRODUCTS
Goldwell @PurePigments These direct-dye additives boost colour’s intensity, shine and reduce fading.
Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Lightener This lightener is integrated with the brand’s bonding technology to maintain hair’s integrity.
TONE TO MAINTAIN THE LIVELIHOOD OF THEIR COLOUR.” — PAMELA ADAM, A COLOURIST AT BLOOM HAIR STUDIO IN EDMONTON, ALTA.
Making it Work With the rise of pastel, mermaid and unicorn hair, it’s been easier than ever for clients, of just about any age (and gender), to feel comfortable with. But for those that might not be ready for #allcoraleverything, it can be an easy addition to a balayage or ombre. “It’s a really fun colour that can be taken in different ways—brighter or muted,” says Pamela Adam, a colourist at Bloom Hair Studio in Edmonton, Alta. “Utilizing balayage techniques to incorporate coral into hair is really important to stay on trend, so it’s more wearable for more clients. You can go all over, especially with your blush clients that might want to ramp it up a bit and be more on trend. You can ‘pastelify’ the colour as well so it’s more suitable for each client, or you can also have something really subtle by incorporating extensions for a more temporary look.” For something a bit more daring, Garrod suggests colour-blocking (another trend we’re continuing to see into 2019) with “lots of different sections, but the ends are nice and squared across the bottom with Living Coral. That could be really fun.”
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: HAIR: ROXANNE BENLI, ROKK EBONY, AUSTRALIA, COLOUR: ELENA NARDONE, MAKEUP: SARAH BAXTER, PHOTO: ELIZABETH KINNAIRD; SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, GOLDWELL, PRAVANA
In Living Coral
“CONSULTATION REALLY COMES INTO PLAY. UTILIZE WHAT WE KNOW ABOUT COLOUR AND SKIN TONE TO MAKE IT MORE SUITABLE FOR THE CLIENT.” — PAMELA ADAM, COLOURIST AT BLOOM HAIR STUDIO IN EDMONTON
➣ Pantone describes Living Coral as “vibrant, yet mellow” and “embodies our desire for playful expression.” FOR MORE LIVING CORAL HOW-TOS, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA
GET THE LOOK Members of the Pravana Collective share their take on this year’s must-have shade.
@itsaspenrae
@rossmichaelssalon
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each: 20g VIVIDS CRYSTALS P Sunstone
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10g VIVIDS Neon Pink
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1 -inch ribbon VIVIDS Neon Orange
Formula 1. VIVIDS Sunstone (at ends)
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Formula 2. VIVIDS Too Cute Coral & 1 gram of VIVIDS Neon Yellow (at roots and mid)
re-lifted to a level 10 using P PURE LIGHT Creme Lightener
@hairbyfranco & @hairforbreakfast
@nealmhair —
atural level six, pre-lightened N with PURE LIGHT Creme Lightener + 20 vol
Roots: VIVIDS Wild Orchid + VIVIDS Clear
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Coral: VIVIDS Sunstone + VIVIDS Pink
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Base: VIVIDS Garnet
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ids: VIVIDS Purple M Tourmaline + Clear
Light coral: VIVIDS Too Cute Coral
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Ends: VIVIDS Sunstone
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 35
Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS
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Man Zone 1 POWER PASTE Dry Paste from MVRCK by Mitch is a mouldable hair paste, ideal for creating lightweight, gritty texture with medium hold and a matte finish. 2 TAME YOUR TEXTURE Get buildable texture with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Session Label Texture Hairspray, a unisex spray that features an ultra-fine mist for volume and body with a matte finish. 3 COMFORTABLY CLOSE Give men an extra-close shave with the BaBylissPRO FoilFX02, a cord/cordless metal shaver that’s designed with double hypoallergenic foils to reduce irritation while removing those stubborn hairs and stubble for a cleaner finish. 4 GET A GRIP With strong, tapered teeth, the Y.S. Park 209 Barber Comb is designed for easy use and features a four-way grip for control—perfect for cutting scissor-over-comb or clipper-over-comb. 5 QUADRUPLE THREAT Style Sexy Hair’s 4Some is an all-in-one wash for hair, body, face and beard that’s “made for men”—making his shower and grooming routine a whole lot simpler. 6 CORNER CONTROL The ergonomically designed Solingen Tondeo Kingsguard Razor features a foldable handle and durable metal blade with exposed corner for extra precision, allowing barbers to safely shave with the entire blade. 7 COMMEMORATIVE CLIPPER Wahl Professional’s 100-Year Anniversary Cord/Cordless Clipper has it all; from a powerful rotary motor and 70-minute cordless run time, to a fast-cutting carbon steel blade—all housed in an ergonomically designed, all-metal vintage design, complete with an adjustable taper lever. 8 FOAM IT UP Designed for medium and long lengths, American Crew’s Fiber Grooming Foam is the latest addition to the brand’s best-selling Fiber range. This fibrous foam is lightweight and creates manageable volume with medium hold and shine.
36 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C
WE’VE ROUNDED UP THE TOP PRODUCTS YOU’LL WANT TO HAVE ON HAND FOR EVERY MALE CLIENT THIS SEASON.
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A Jack of All With longer hairstyles, and more men interested in grooming, are you confident in your skill set? We spoke with experts to find out what’s really at stake and why learning from each other isn’t a bad thing. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
For the last few years, we’ve seen a shift in men’s hair from tight fades to longer styles. And while the trends may be in favour of going long, not all clients will be. In an era when men’s hair and grooming can equal big business, experts agree that it’s time to roll up your sleeves and refine your skills to be ready to offer your client exactly what he’s looking for.
“Clippers will do the best job—hands down, without question—in any hair that’s shorter than you’re able to control the tension and elevation using your fingers. If you’re not able to do that, that’s exactly what clippers are for and it will give you a superior finish.” Matty Conrad is an award-winning barber and men’s hairstylist with more than 15 years of industry experience. He is the owner of Victory Barber & Brand, a barbershop with four locations in and around Victoria, B.C.
Get Schooled “It’s not just about barbers becoming more well-rounded, but hairstylists becoming more well-rounded,” says Matty Conrad, owner of Victory Barber & Brand. “There’s something really strong on both sides of the fence right now.” Conrad’s background in hairstyling has helped strengthen his barbering skill set, enabling him to offer his clients the best of both worlds. “Traditionally, barbers learn a lot of the mechanical work; using clippers, creating fades, transitions, blends and tapers. Barbering has always been really strategic—working with strong, repetitious pattern skills—and these are the kinds of things that hairstylists are never taught in school,” he says. When it comes to techniques, Conrad says hairstylists and barbers should be well versed in understanding what the best tool is for the job. “I think the idea that you can do these beautiful, faded haircuts using scissors is ridiculous,” he says. “Learn to use every tool at your disposal and stop thinking that it’s ‘cheating.’ There’s no such thing.” 38 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
PRO TIP RESPECT THE CORNERS. “A LOT OF HAIRSTYLISTS THINK OF JUST TAKING THE HAIR UP SHORT AND UP REALLY HIGH AND PUTTING A PART-LINE IN THERE. BUT YOU REALLY DO NEED TO CREATE A SQUARE SHAPE IN THE SIDES. YOU’RE TRYING TO CREATE THE SIDES TO LOOK LIKE WALLS THAT ARE VERTICAL. WHAT THAT DOES IS GIVES YOU A STRONGER JAW SHAPE. CURVING IN OR ROLLING IN AT THE TOP OF THE HEAD REALLY INJURES THE OVERALL SILHOUETTE AND MAKES THE GUY LOOK CHUBBIER RATHER THAN LEAN AND STRONG-LOOKING.”
Another tool worth mastering: the straight razor. For some it may be intimidating, but Conrad says it can make all the difference to your client. “A straight razor is part of the experience for men that’s uniquely masculine,” he says. “To be able to finish off a haircut with a lather, a hot foam, towel and razor glided over the neck to get those little guys. Learn to use those tools, rather than be afraid of them, to create a superior experience for your client.” Practice, Practice, Practice Whether it’s a technique or tool you’re hoping to master, no one expects you to learn everything you need to know overnight. For MJ Deziel, hair school
MJ Deziel is a men’s hairstylist based in Montreal. She is an educator for Redken and helped co-create the Redken Brews Barber and Redken Brews Trend classes. She is also the founder of The Regulars, a company that offers on-demand corporate haircutting, hairstyling and wellness services.
Trades? “THERE’S A VERY FINE LINE BETWEEN THE TWO, AND TO STAY RELEVANT IN THIS FIELD, A HAIRSTYLIST HAS TO DIVE INTO THE BARBERING SIDE TO STAY RELEVANT AND TO RETAIN CLIENTS IN THE SALON.”
PHOTOS: GLASSBOX EDUCATION, GLASSBOX BARBERSHOP, MJ DEZIEL, MATTY CONRAD
– MJ DEZIEL
and in-salon experience provided a great start, but she looked to social media and YouTube to learn barbering techniques. “Social media played a big role in my early career. Peter Gosling is the I followed some barbers owner of Glassbox around the world,” she says. Barbershop, with three locations in Toronto “Back then, there wasn’t a lot and Hamilton, Ont. of education on barbering. Glassbox Barbershop I wanted to be able to offer also offers education these services, but at the ranging from one-day time I didn’t have that type to three-day courses. of knowledge or skill. So, I went online; there’s a lot of free education online and on YouTube.” An educator for Redken, Deziel has developed a strong hairstyling and barbering skills set. However, she doesn’t consider herself to be a barber. “I’m a hairstylist. For me, barbering is a niche,” says Deziel. “There’s a very fine line between the two, and to stay relevant in this field, a hairstylist has to dive into the barbering side to stay relevant and to retain clients in the salon.” With the revolving door of trends coming and going, education is the key to staying on top of anything and everything to do with men’s hair and grooming. “I’ve been cutting hair for 13 years and I’m still learning,” says Peter Gosling, owner of Glassbox Barbershop in Toronto. “The more you
learn, the more powerful you are and the better you become behind the chair.” Service and Beyond Over the years, it’s not only the service that has become completely different for men in a salon versus a barbershop, but also the experience. “Before, there was not much of a focus on guys in salons. We took them for granted for so long. It was always about fitting in guys between colour services and bigger service tickets. They were kind of an afterthought,” says Conrad. “When it comes to why barbering is such a fascination for guys right now, it’s because they’re suddenly getting a service that they never even knew they were missing; haircuts that were made for them, hot towels, razors, etc.” “We have classes here all the time and hairstylists show up and just want to hang out and watch. We’re all for sharing—we’re not trying to keep it a secret,” he adds. “Look for the differences in the service, the haircut, workflow, vibe, all of it.”
Cheat Sheet Matty Conrad shares his top tips for mastering men’s hair and grooming.
1 Barbering’s history is about shaving. You can’t really call yourself a barber if you can’t shave or use a straight razor with proficiency. This is one of the paramount skills required. Learning to do outlines and neck shaves with a hot towel and lather is a good start, but shaving a face takes real mastery. 2 Beard trimming is another thing that eludes and intimidates most hairstylists, and one that is critical to master if you want to call yourself a master. This requires a slightly different approach than cutting hair—with scissors and sections— so learn how to do it properly before you attempt it on somebody with a girthy growth. 3 Stop being grossed out! Eyebrows, the nose, and ears all start growing hair at accelerated rates as men get older. Learn how to deal with those and make them a regular part of your grooming service. 4 Master your tools and their maintenance. Barbers use more tools than most hairstylists to create their flawless cuts. It takes time to understand what each tool does specifically, and experts seldom ask, “Can’t I just cheat and use this?” Barbers invest in their craft and take special care of their tools so that they remain sharp and precise. Learn about how to maintain your tools. 5 Brush up on your sanitization. The biggest difference I noticed between hairstylists and barbers is the level of cleanliness and sanitization employed. Barbers come from a quasi-medical background and use sharp instruments that are capable of breaking the skin and potentially drawing blood, so it is critical that tools be cleaned and disinfected, work stations be sanitized, and the barber is well versed in controlling the spread of disease.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 39
MAKING THE WOMEN ON M GROOMING ➣
Focus on the details in the haircut, the key to keeping client’s happy is a clean finish.
Real talk about the ups and downs of working in a maledominated industry.
belives her quirky personality as being a part of the draw for her clients, “ I’ve been told I have that big kid personality, they feel like they are talking to a buddy.”
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
While men’s grooming is still a traditionally male occupied industry, more and more women are breaking new grownd. “Barbershops are always going to be more of a guy’s space, but I had a boss who was very pro women in the shop,” says Percovic, a Vancouver-based barber and men’s hairstylist, who has trained in barbershops in Canada and the United Kingdom. “I do like how it is changin. Men used to either like or don’t like having their haircut by women, but now it seems like they are more open.” From the stylistic challenges of creating clean lines and detailed definition to building connections they have made with their male clientele, we spoke with women making a mark in the men’s grooming world to find 40 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
out what it’s really like to be part of a predominantly male industry, in 2019. Your Vibe Attracts Your Tribe Having been a men’s hairstylist for the past eight or nine years, Maki Mak, of Zink Hair Salon in Vancouver has found that trust is everything. “My male clients reflect a similar personality
as I do,” she says. “They are maybe a bit quiet and I think we all have a love for travelling.” She says as with building relationships with female clients with men there needs to be a focus on finding common ground. “When we chat, I do try to remember the details of their personal lives and I try to make it more like catching up with an old friend,” says Mak. She also
A Matter of Trust Percovic says that working with men requires a whole lot of trust in yourself and your skills, as well as from your clients. “I always say, ‘Trust in the Cut’,” she says. “When they come in for the first time I’m often asked: “How would you change me?” I always try to make a change that they’ll like.” “Among colleagues, I have an interest in men’s style and I don’t know if a lot of our staff members have that same excitement,” says Contessa 2019 Men’s Hairstylist of the Year, Christine Kelly, of Cutting Room Creative in Nanaimo, B.C. “For my clients, especially men, they see my Contessa Award like a hockey award and I think it has brought more clients. I definitely feel the pressure to outdo myself, more and more.”
CUT: MALE
PHOTOS COURTESY: MAKI MAK, ZINK HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER
All Together Now When it comes to building a reputation as a woman in a man’s world, Mak says hers was built by honing her traditional hairstyling skills and barbering techniques. Working in a salon environment, having the ability to do more detailed clipper work along with an appreciation for precision cutting, has enabled her to straddle both world. “I
have specialized in scissorover-comb, but I always use a trimmer around the hairline and think there’s an appreciation for this art,” she says. “Being the only girl in a barbershop, some barbers will think you get more clients because of your gender, but I have confidence in what I do and I know my skill set,” says Percovic.
Be Open to the Experience Both Mak and Percovic believe that having flexibility to work with a male clientele is a good idea. “Keep an open
mind,” says Perovic, “When you are looking at a shorter haircut, they need to look at details, they need to push through. I don’t think being a woman should stop you,” she says. Having trained in a barbershop, Percovic admits that being a woman in that environment means you do need to get used to the banter. “You need to get used to the barbershop talk. It’s more laid back and customer service isn’t compromised by it,” she says.
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Advanced Learning As the old adage goes you’re never too old to learn. No matter where you are, you can find education classes (online or otherwise) to improve your skills. For anyone who wants to work as a barber, you also need to understand it’s more than clipper work. “A good one will use both hairstyling and barbering skills,” says Percovic. “Some guys will want it longer on top, but the sides cut with clipper work. I feel that there are a lot of barbers who don’t have both tools, so if you do that can be an advantage.” For Mak practice is key. “Master the scissor-over-comb technique be persistent and never give up,” she says. “When I was in hairdressing school learning technical cuts for women, I also started doing men’s cuts,” Kelly says. “Something told me not to fall back on my clipper guards so I started with no guards and built my skills this way.
reliable source of income,” says Mak. “And quite often I find that men are very relaxed and much more chill, which gives you more freedom to enjoy your appointment time too.” “Male clientele are more forgiving and open to trying new things. A lot of people feel the looks you can offer them are the same, but you can do so much,” says Kelly. “I think my guys rely on me knowing that I have something cool or outside the box to suggest.”
Always give your client’s current style a fresh spni, which helps you gain their trust when you suggest bigger changes.
Consistent Frequency It’s true: Men are better at getting to their stylist or barber, than women and both Mak and Perovic agree that’s a good thing. “Being a men’s hairstylist is a good and
“FIND SOMETHING TO SHARE THAT YOU HAVE IN COMMON. “WHEN WE CHAT, I DO TRY TO REMEMBER THE DETAILS OF THEIR PERSONAL LIVES AND I TRY TO MAKE IT MORE LIKE CATCHING UP WITH AN OLD FRIEND.” – MAKI MAK, ZINK HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 41
Taking a Likin No longer only in high-fashion photoshoots, long hair for men is the hot hairstyle to watch for in 2019. BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
The movement towards long hair for men started taking root two years ago, on the exclusive designer catwalks of Europe. Fast-forward to 2019 and the trend for longer, more textured hair, is definitely a thing now for your everyday guy. Here’s how to create that coveted new look your clients can rock and will love!)
Texture is Key
If very long, silky and high-maintenance manes are an essential accessory for male models and Insta-stars, the reality is very different IRL (In Real Life). Here, it’s much more about creating textured hair, and a lived-in look that’s rugged and very natural. “Yes, we’ve pretty much moved away from coifs and fades, in terms of on-trend hair for men,” confirms Hassan Nasser, owner of Avalon salon in Calgary and Team Crew Member of American Crew for education, who has also won multiple awards in the men’s hair segment. “The movement that I’m seeing in 2019 is definitely towards longer hair, with more texture on the top and sides,” also says Gianpaolo Colombo, artistic director at Hairafter salon in Toronto, and member of the Sebastian Professional Design Team. “I see a lot more messier styles coming in, which is great because many men like natural textures.” 42 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
Roughing it up – how to —
Don’t use a brush! Finger dry and tousled is best.
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For a mid-length look, add bit of Texture Maker from Sebastian, which is a sea salt spray.
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“For more lived-in looks, work some clay putty into the hair,” says Colombo. “Add it little by little on towel-dried hair, or hair that still has a bit of moisture in it. And it’s very important to let hair do its own thing. Use a diffuser if you want hair that looks more rugged and natural.”
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“Straight hair can be made to have more texture, with the right styling products,” says Nasser. To achieve that effect, he uses the American Crew Tech Series, which is a line dedicated to creating texture in men’s hair or adding that lived-in hair grittiness. “The Texture spray gives a two- to three-day lived-in gritty look that’s not plastered to the head,” he says.
ng To Long
HAIR: MICHAEL FRANCOS FOR D&J AMBROSE, STYLING: JACKIE AMBROSE & MICHAEL FRANCOS, PHOTO: GABOR SZANTAI; HAIR: TERRI KAY & ANDREA GILES, MAKEUP: LAN NGUYEN, STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES; HAIR: JASON HALL, MAKEUP: JO SUGAR, STYLING: ALASTAIR J GOURLEY, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY
Making the Cut
When it comes to sporting longer hair, we all know just letting it grow won’t do the trick! Here’s where your haircutting expertise will bring your client’s hair to the next level. “It’s time to brush up on your shears techniques, learning how to master texturizing shears and educating yourself, big time,” says Nasser. “Make sure you’re updating your arsenal because shears are coming back. This is where the future of men’s haircuts is heading. Clients will be looking for more than your classic fade barbering.” The days of the classic barbering look are really over, and if you want to stay current, invest in education this year, with an emphasis on men’s haircutting techniques with shears. According to Colombo, there’s a very fine line with longer hair for a guy. It needs to look masculine, while having texture, movement and fluidity. “And here, your important tool is the feather blade or the razor. With shears, you’re going to focus on point cutting, while the edges are broken and shattered. Never go for a clean, precise look, so I would say focus on horizontal lines when you’re cutting the hair. You definitely don’t want it to look like if your client has a bob!”
Creating a cool long look —
If you’re looking for mid-length, work four inches from the perimeter line from the nape to create that surfer look. “I love that messy beach-bum hair Bradley Cooper often wears. And what’s cool is that you can dress it up or dress it down,” says Colombo. “It can look airy and very rugged for a day look, and then slicked back with a bit of pomade if the guy’s ready to wear a suit for a black tie or more formal evening event.”
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According to Nasser, “you want to work with clean sectioning and parting, all the while decreasing interior bulk from the hair by creating texture that’s more defined.” You don’t want to get lost in the haircut, so stay within your hairlines, while giving hair shape.
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With men, you want to stay away from wispiness and a round perimeter. Focus on creating squarer lines, showcasing a nice jawline. Remember that just because the hair is long, you still don’t want to lose that masculine edge.
Colour for Dimension
With longer hair, you’re open to many more creative possibilities. It’s a great canvas, but it can quickly become onedimensional. And then, enter colour! “By adding highlights, you can break it up and add dimension,” suggests Nasser. “Plus, hair colour can bring out more texture in the hair and give the cuticle added thickness, which is a tremendous asset for longer hair. It definitely gives the haircut personality and makes it more unique.” Highlights are great to make longer hair look more vibrant, but remember to make sure they look as natural as possible. So placement, quantity and shade are definitely important. If your client has a lot of grey hair, blend in the silver to “create reverse lowlights while adding colour to the hair,” recommends Nassar. “And never cover the entire hair because it always ends up looks fake.”
Choosing the right shade —
Always choose the haircolour based on your client’s skin tone and the hair’s base colour.
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“I would suggest using sandier tones instead of platinum to give it texture and definition, and don’t go beyond one shade or two lighter than the client’s natural haircolour,” says Colombo.
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Select a shade that’s subtle and not too bold, because then you run into the problem of it looking fake.
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For grey hair, use ashier tones that wash away nicely, while combing in some lowlights.
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CO LLE CTIO NS
March
An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 45
Collections — VINTAGE VIBES
This Canadian collection of textured styles pays homage to iconic rock ‘n’ roll looks.
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Contessa 2019 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year, Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. MAKEUP Marika D’Auteuil STYLING Alicia Leclerc PHOTOS Jordan Holloway
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 47
Collections — KEEPING IT COOL
This effortlessly cool Canadian collection takes precision cutting and textured styling to the next level.
Contessa 2019 Finalist, Men's Hairstylist of the Year, MJ Deziel, Freelance, Montreal MAKEUP Celica Sea STYLING Frédérique Légaré PHOTOS Kelly Jacob
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 49
Collections — FRAME OF MIND
Blonde and pastel hues elevate this collection to new heights.
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HAIR IdHair International Art Team MAKEUP Anne Staunsager STYLING Mai Svanhvit PHOTOS Bo Egestroem salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 51
Collections — RUGGEDLY REFINED
Coiffured cuts are redefined in this Canadian collection of ready-to-wear styles.
HAIR & STYLING Hassan Nasser, Avalon Salon, Calgary PHOTOS Aria Ahmadi
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 53
Collections — TOUGH LOVE
Sharp lines and lived-in texture are brought to life in this black and white Canadian collection.
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HAIR Marilyn Vendittelli, Industry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. MAKEUP Meaghan Gregory STYLING David Vendittelli PHOTOS Kale Friesen salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 55
Collections — CULTURE
This British hairstyling duo showcases their styling prowess with a range of textured looks. 56 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
HAIR Jamie Stevens & Matt Cahill for Matrix MAKEUP & STYLING
Jamie Stevens PHOTOS Jens Wikholm
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 57
Eric Charpentier Contessa Gallery — FINALIST 2019 MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR
Missing in Action Despite the most meticulous planning that goes into a big competition photo shoot, sometimes life throws you a curveball. This is exactly what happened to Charpentier, when one of the models he had booked didn’t show up. Michael Dubuc, one of his colleagues and also a Matrix educator, quickly filled in for the MIA
GET THE LOOK
Matrix Texture Builder “If you’re looking for controlled, natural texture, this is it!”
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Easy Does It… Charpentier wanted hairstyles that are easygoing and be worn by most men. Keeping these considerations in mind, he focused on creating a bit of texture that wasn’t too editorial or avant-garde, with a splash of blonde. “I also wanted to showcase three lengths of hair that will appeal to different types of guys. I think that longer hair, inspired from the early ’90s, is currently making a big comeback, particularly with a style reminiscent of the bowl cut.”
Charpentier took inspiration for this collection from ’90s celebrity hairstyles.
➣
A hairstylist and colourist for more than 12 years, Eric Charpentier is known in the industry for the stunning, luminous and perfect blondes he creates in all shapes and forms: highlights, balayage, babylights and more. Freelancing at Brossés salon in Montreal, he’s also a Matrix educator and teaches hairstyling at the Tornade Academy, also in Montreal. “I absolutely love everything about the hair industry, and I can’t seem get enough of it,” he says.
Since the photo shoot was done in black and white—“a type of photography that can quickly become quite dramatic,” he says—the looks are fresh and relaxed so everything is pretty basic and the focus is really on the hair.
Contessa Fever As a first-time Contessa finalist, Charpentier was elated on awards night. “I was stressed, for sure, but it was a positive stress. I really had no expectations and was just happy to be there; proud of what I’d already achieved with my work.” He’s already planning his next collection for Contessa 31 and says he’ll enter more than one category this time. Determined and disciplined, Charpentier also has a ton of new projects this year. “I want to make my mark and get my name out there. Stay tuned!”
TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ; HAIR: ERIC CHARPENTIER, MAKEUP: SEBASTIEN SAUVAGE, PHOTO: SEBASTIEN SAUVAGE, MATRIX, GETTY IMAGES
model and the rest is history. “Maybe if the model had shown up, I would not have created that hairstyle and would not have made it as a finalist,” he says. We call that serendipity…
Business —
Made to Measure for Men Two pros in the business of men’s grooming give us the lowdown on creating that awesome experience for your male clients. SEALING THE DEAL
BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
It goes without saying that the list of differences between men and women is substantial—particularly when it comes to hair and grooming appointments. The one uniting factor that should always be in place is excellent customer service, whether your specialty is amazing hair colour or perfect coifs. Making sure your client feels welcome and listened to is what will make you stand apart from the rest. “A smile can go a very long way to win you fans. It’s the first point of contact you have with your client when you greet them, and the last thing they’ll remember when they leave,” says Max Fortin, founder and CEO of Brave and Bearded. “Genuine face to face contact helps build an enduring relationship. It also shows that you care.” The Consultation A good consultation that focuses on the wants and needs of your client should always precede any haircut or grooming service. OK, cool. But what are the important topics to cover during this conversation? “Listening and being aware are critical. Ultimately, you have to care about the person in the chair,” says Doug Stewart, owner of Garrison’s Barbershop in downtown Toronto with multiple locations, including an in-house shop within one of the retail brick-and-mortar Frank & Oak locations. “At Garrison’s, the barbers are technically skilled and also very much in tune with who their clients are as men and what their style needs to be to help them be successful. Our barbers engage in a conversation that is maintained over many appointments. It’s like teamwork
in a way; the barber and the client talk and share, and organically find something that works.” When it’s time to get a new look, says Stewart, a barber or stylist should take into account the clients’ grooming habits as well. “If the guy doesn’t want to fix his hair every morning then we won’t pursue a style that demands a lot of product,” he adds. “Our clients are visually aware people, so they are typically quite conscious of what they want.” Bookings If the client has a set schedule, then pre-booking is best as they get to their barber when it’s most convenient for them. “Booking the next appointment as the client pays is great because it ensures you fill your spots and the guy won’t be left guessing when he has to come back or miss out on his beard maintenance,” says Fortin. Of course, depending on your clientele, their work flexibility impacts that preference. “We have a significant number of clients who are successful business guys who travel or have a ‘dynamic schedule’, making pre-booking not possible. In that case we make our online scheduling easy,” says Stewart. How far should you push to book that next appointment? Just take it easy. “We don’t follow up with clients who haven’t rescheduled—it’s just not our approach. We focus on providing a great experience with very skilled barbers, and allow our clients to sort their own schedule.” Problem solved! Just focus on your great service and team, and the rest will come to you.
Take-home products are essential to maintaining and recreating the new look you’ve just created for your client. And, let’s face it, encouraging clients to invest in professional products should also be an important component of your business model. So, what’s the best way to recommend products? How do you make sure they use what you’re recommending?
Max Fortin “Barbers and hairstylists are experts and, as such, need to know all the subtleties of hair and beards. This is where a good education will help you prescribe the right product. Take the time to explain the product. Sometimes guys can be a little shy and don’t ask many questions. So, position yourself as a ‘style doctor’ and prescribe exactly what they need.”
Doug Stewart “There’s an incredible number of good product options, many made in Canada. As a group, we try all the products because when our barbers recommend something, they have to believe in it.” What about commission? “At Garrison’s, we don’t compensate for product sales. We see the product as a tool that helps our clients look and feel great between their visits. In that sense, product is not critical to our business. It’s not a source of much profit, but rather something that helps our clients feel good.” salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 59
Profile —DAVID RACCUGLIA
Leading the Charge From inspiring the men’s grooming category to defining men’s hair trends to partnering with iconic brands like Harley-Davidson, a lot has happened in the last 25 years for American Crew. As they celebrate a milestone, we find out what’s ahead for the brand with an interview with the man behind it all: David Raccuglia. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
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American Crew stepped up to street style for its presentation at the 2019 Contessa Awards.
PHOTOS: AMERICAN CREW, DAVID RACCUGLIA, CONTESSA PHOTOS: MAJA HAJDUK, MICHELLE BELSKY, JENNA HUM
People had the opportunity to see a preview of American Crew’s new look, when the brand’s Canadian team presented at the 2019 Contessa Awards. Tell us about that. This was a true example of how American Crew is redefining the classic man, with modern style. How we see it is, today’s man can be someone with a sleeve of tattoos, a pompadour, or sideburns—there is no one look that encompasses today’s man. The Contessa presentation really showed how our new look is bringing timeless style into a new era. Our customer, and our product line, has broadened—launching innovative
➣
What have been the keys to American Crew’s success? In 1994 [the year American Crew was founded], there was no men’s category, so we didn’t do it the fast way. We did it very slowly through education; teaching people how to cut men’s hair and to be inspired to want to do men’s hair. Through our collections, imagery and passion for men, we taught stylists that had no experience in cutting men’s hair to adopt our techniques and become good men’s groomers. We did that one salon at a time, one city at a time, one country at a time. It doesn’t surprise me now that when the category is on fire, which it is, American Crew is leading it.
“WE HAVE THIS FOLLOWING THAT’S NOT BASED ON INSTAGRAM EXPOSURE; WE HAVE A FOLLOWING BASED ON USERS. THAT’S WHAT WE’RE PROUD OF. WE INSPIRED THE CATEGORY.”
products and attracting new customers. We’re a diverse brand with an equally diverse product portfolio, whether this means celebrating a younger, cleanshaven man, an older, more refined man, bearded or otherwise. We feel the men’s category is growing exponentially, and so is our focus. Since you’ve taken on a more behindthe-scenes role as photographer for the brand, what has been your favourite part of that? I’ve been lucky to see the business from several perspectives, whether it’s behind the chair or now behind the camera lens. Something I’ve been fortunate enough to be privy to, in all of these positions, is really getting to know men and what they want. These learnings have been paramount when developing American Crew’s products and offerings. With the men’s industry evolving, what do you think is needed, in terms of education, to help more hairstylists and barbers be on top of their game? I think it’s really important to be versatile and not too one-sided. Clipper cutting and scissor cutting is a balance—it’s what made American Crew. American Crew took mid-century modern technical scissor cutting, and classic barber clippering and morphed a technique that made you a very well-rounded groomer. I wouldn’t necessarily say that just barbering is enough. That’s what I would recommend to anyone who is loving the
men’s grooming category. You want to be able to cut hair to make it do what you want, and not just shave it off. I feel that that’s really important; mastering and getting hair to do what is needed for your patron based on your skills. What is next for American Crew? What else are you hoping to accomplish? We’re looking forward to even more innovation in the men’s category. It’s been so exciting to witness the boom and comeback of the barbershop that we always predicted. As the industry continues to evolve, American Crew will be there to support it with more products to answer the hair and skin care needs of all men, and their stylists. In regards to what we’re hoping to accomplish, American Crew will continue to stay one step ahead and lead the pack in men’s styling trends, with classic yet modern style.
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To commemorate its 25th anniversary, American Crew is releasing a coffee table book filled with the brand’s iconic imagery and history of its product innovations. “Twenty-five years ago, when the brand was launched, it was a different world. The media American Crew used to get our name out there was entirely tangible—photographs, books, showing at trade shows, etc.,” says Raccuglia. “It only felt natural to commemorate American Crew by aggregating these moments in print—a physical tribute to the progress we’ve made in the past 25 years.”
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 61
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
Creating Concrete Connections With a salon on one side and a barbershop on the other, in Concrete Barbers owner Chad Stewart has created a uniquely innovative concept, one that continues to provide plenty of room for growth. “We always start out with a hot towel service, which guys seem to really enjoy, and often come in just for it,” he says. With a demographic ranging between 30 and 55 years of age, many young fathers will bring their sons, too, creating an inviting family atmosphere, especially on weekends. Quality Time Concrete Barbers takes pride in providing a premium yet accessible experience. “We take it to the next level, but have barbershop pricing because we compete with a lot of old-school barbershops,” says Stewart. While this may be 62 salonmagazine.ca / March 2019
surprising to many, Concrete Barbers has experienced much success so far, with walk-in traffic keeping a rotation of clients in the barbers’ chairs every day. All the Feels When it comes to design, Stewart strongly believes that “textures are key to having a comfortable, higherend environment.” Along with a crisp, neutral colour palette that includes steel walls offering a reflective quality, ample natural light and clean lines create a cohesive appeal. There’s also a very purposeful minimalistic approach at each workstation. “Barbers can’t have a lot on their counters, so keeping it very clean throughout keeps the space a very relaxed environment for guys to come into.”
Taking It for the Team As much as design plays a major part in creating this relaxed atmosphere, Stewart also encourages his barbers to craft personalized connections with their clients. “Right from the beginning every barber writes a few notes about each client in their file,” he says. “Whether it’s the fade or the guards they used, there is a rapport right off the bat, and I’ve not really seen this much detail in salons.” For this reason, Stewart believes that male clients naturally are gravitating here and feeling right at home. Not to mention, all staff have been trained on bakery duty, baking fresh muffins daily, a small touch that clients have come to appreciate when walking in for a morning appointment.
PHOTOS: MORGAN GOLD
Interiors — CONCRETE BARBERS
How to create an affordable luxury experience without compromising quality of service.
DETAILS Opened in 2017 DESIGN Chad Stewart & Elena Kyle SPACE 1,450 square feet TEAM Nine barbers BRANDS Eleven Kevin.Murphy Reuzel Schwarzkopf Professional Victory Barber Wella WEBSITE concreteblondehairbody.com/ concrete-barbers
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 63
Mid ’70s
Oribe moved to New York and worked with editorial hairstylist Garren at his salon at the Plaza Hotel.
Scoop —
One in a Million
Late ’80s
Opened his first salon in New York’s Upper West Side.
On December 17, 2018, at the age of 62, the industry lost one of the greats: Oribe Canales. Known simply as Oribe, he was beloved by his colleagues and a long list of celebrity clientele including Cher, Lady Gaga and Rihanna. His work has appeared on the covers of magazines around the world, including Vogue and Vanity Fair. As we celebrate Oribe’s life, we take a look back at some of the highlights of his extraordinary career:
1991
Opened his second salon on Fifth Avenue in New York. It was a pivotal moment in Oribe’s career, when he became a leader at Fashion Work, working with iconic supermodels such as Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell.
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1995
THE VACUUM WIG
Opened a salon in Miami, where he began spending most of his time.
2008
Oribe becomes the namesake and creative inspiration behind the luxury professional beauty brand, Oribe Hair Care.
Natural Hair Natural Scalp
2010
Oribe is interviewed by Salon Magazine: “I always try to make a woman look beautiful, sexy, extravagant and a little exaggerated. I love the oddness in things. The one weird thing about a person’s hair is what makes it great.” (To read the full interview, visit SalonMagazine.ca)
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2010
Oribe attends the 22nd annual Contessa Awards, where he presented the award for Atlantic Hairstylist of the Year.
Joining Forces
Scoop —
Award-winning Toronto-based hairstylist Frank Cini has joined Goldwell’s education team as the national ambassador for technical and creative development. In his new role, Cini will develop programs focused on haircutting and finishing, assist in the recruitment and development of Goldwell’s national artistic team, as well as facilitate and collaborate on sessions and content for the brand’s digital platforms. Cini, who is also the co-owner of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto, will be joined at Goldwell by his business partners Daniel Naumovski and Rino Balzano, who are new members of the brand’s artistic team.
Artistic Assent
International award-winning hairstylist Mark Leeson has been appointed as the global artistic ambassador for Revlon Professional. In his new role, Leeson will be working with the Revlon Professional team on education courses and seminars, along with creating new brand initiatives, ready-to-wear collections and creative imagery.
Newly Acquired
West Coast Beauty, a Vancouver-based professional beauty supply distributor, has acquired Victoriabased professional beauty and esthetics distributor, Nova Beauty. “This was a natural acquisition for us to expand into Vancouver Island,” says Ro Lal, principal for West Coast Beauty. “We will now have a variety of choices of not only haircare but esthetics. It gives us more of a complete beauty distribution centre.” West Coast Beauty and Nova Beauty will continue to operate as separate brands.
PHOTOS: ORIBE, SALON ARCHIVES, GOLDWELL, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, JOICO, LA BIOSTHETIQUE
Teaming Up
Joico has recently announced its partnership with celebrity hairstylist Frederic Aspiras. Known for his work with Lady Gaga, Aspiras is a hair and wig designer who’s created ultra-glam red-carpet and tour looks for the singer-actress, and will be utilizing Joico’s wide range of colour, care and styling lines to continue creating his signature, out-of-the-box looks.
New Role
Guylaine Martel will be joining Marc Riese as the new creative director of La Biosthetique Canada. "I think it’s the perfect compliment. I look forward to a long and dynamic relationship together, which will have a positive impact within the industry," she says. Martel and Riese’s new collection for the brand will be unveiled in April.
clarifying shampoo Reveal a fresh canvas! SOMA Clarifying Shampoo removes product build up and trace minerals without diminishing your client’s hair color.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2019 65
Salon Stories —
Barbers Who Feel Like Brothers Two old-school barbers talk about how they first met. In this new series we feature pros from throughout the industry for a bit of real talk about what matters most in their personal and professional lives. First up: Longtime friends and barbers, Farzad Salehi, “The Happy Barber” from Vancouver and Rob Rietveld from Schorem Barbershop in Holland, to talk about all things men’s grooming.
When Opposites Attract FARZAD Rob didn’t look like a barber, but then I started paying attention to his work and thought, “I wish I could do that!” Not only is he very talented, but he’s a great man and I’m happy to call him a friend. ROB I would say the same about him. We come from such different worlds and have a love for what we do. We hit it off from the moment we met. There’s great comradery in this industry—there’s not a barber in the world I can’t talk with for a few hours. On Their Most Coveted Skills FARZAD Barbers share a common trait where we don’t judge each other. I have seen the work of someone who may have a personality that turns me off, but I can appreciate that their craft is extra.
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ROB He made [shaving] look so easy and relaxing. I saw that his hands weren’t just working—it was his whole body. It’s not the technique but the attitude I realized that I was focusing on the end result and not the movements. Why Online Matters FARZAD The first video I ever did was the one Rob saw. It was during the beginning of the barbering boom that I put it on YouTube. ROB With online videos, I really want to show people the difference in the haircuts related to the barber renaissance. I’ve been doing hair for 30 years and Farzad has been doing it for 32, so we are oldschool. Barbering is almost a fad now, but it has such a rich history.
A Few Last Words FARZAD Barbers have to pay attention to the culture. Just because you put a barber sign on the wall, doesn’t mean the shop is a good one. A barber who understands the culture will succeed, I’m convinced. ROB We have each found our perfect job. In life, you have to do what makes you happy.
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JELLE MOLLEMA
On Making Connections ROB I met Farzad on the internet. I’d been a barber for a very long time and shaving had always been a bit of a downside. I saw what he was doing and I immediately was interested because it said something to me about how the world is changing. I was also really interested in the barbering culture and the feeling in his shop.
NEW
Goodbye Damage
Hello
l u f i t u a e B
see it. feel it. believe it. JOICOCANADA.COM HAIR Joico Artistic Team
COLOR Larisa Love
PHOTO Hama Sanders