Salon Magazine, March 2020

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EXTEND YOU R BR I DA L S E RV ICE S

GE T T I NG CR E AT I V E W I T H C OL OU R

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

A R E TA I L REALITY CHECK

Business Matters M A RC H 2 0 2 0

salonmagazine.ca


WE HAVE CHANGED EVERYTHING BUT ITS ICONIC FORMULA SAME ICONIC FORMULA

• An innovative formula that provides perfect coverage,

long-lasting care all with a non-drip creamy texture.

• With Ionène G, a highly concentrated care ingredient,

hair is 45%* more conditioned after a colouration.

NEW DESIGN FOR LIMITLESS CREATIVITY

• Minimalist, fresh and clean, you will love to play with Majirel’s

new pack. Colour coded by undertone and by colour family, you will have limitless possibilities to freely express yourself! • Colours are true-to-tone, available in 147 shades.

MORE SUSTAINABLE THAN EVER

NEW COOL INFORCED SHADES

• Majirel’s 11 new Cool Inforced shades promise to fight

brassiness for up to 21 shampoos while maintaining neutralization for up to 6 weeks.***

*Instrumental testing. **Saving 7T of virgin plastic, based on full 2018 quantities. ***vs Majirel regular range.

MA

plastic cap which saves 7 tons of plastic each year.** • Majirel is proudly Canadian made in our plant, the 1st carboneutral L’Oréal plant in America.

DE

AD

• Majirel’s new pack design includes 100% recycled

A

UD PRO LY

IN C A N


NEW MAJIREL. PLAY WITH IT.

SIGN UP FOR EXCLUSIVE CONTENT, OFFERS, PRO TIPS AND MUCH MORE w w w.l orealp rof e s s ionn e l.c a /s t ay in t o u c h


NEW

©2020 The Wella Corporation


Up to 8 weeks color protection* Stronger hair from root to tip**

*when using Structure+ Mask **when using Structure+ Mask vs. no treatment

wella.com/colormotion



BEFORE

AFTER

> Your creativity excites and inspires us. It’s what drives everything we do.

>

#GIMME TEXTURE For clients who need a pick-meup, or maybe just some more oomph. Check out OSiS+ SESSION LABEL Texture Hairspray. Spray a little to refresh, spray a little more for texture, spray more for up to 200% more volume.

#ROOTING FOR YOU A trend every busy client can get behind — roots are in! The multi-dimensional finish of tbh – true beautiful honest lends itself to a softer line of demarcation. Goodbye harsh lines, hello seamless grow-out! >

>

#SKIN IS IN Did you know all BC BONACURE shampoos are micellar? Target your client’s specific hair needs with skincare-inspired ingredients like pH4.5 in the COLOR FREEZE range, which freezes pigment in the hair matrix and reduces color fade.

<

#CARE FOR HAIR

>

Infuse your color formula with nourishing ingredients. tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener boasts Macadamia Oil, Argan Oil, and Shea Butter for dreamy, luscious locks.

#LIVED-IN COLOR The special HEP pigments in tbh – true beautiful honest Permanent Color Creme creates shimmering, powdery nuances — giving your client that “I woke up like this” look straight out of the salon.

#SchwarzkopfCAN SchwarzkopfCAN

SchwarzkopfProfessionalCanada

SchwarzkopfProfessionalCanada



KOLESTON PERFECT

NEW! Pure Auburn Collection A MODERN, VIBRANT COPPER

Very Light Blonde Intensive Red Intensive

99/44

Light Brown Red Gold

5/43

Medium Brown Gold

4/3

#ASKFORWELLA ASKFORWELLA •

• 1 800 419-3552 • ©2020 THE WELLA CORPORATION, CALABASAS, CA 91302 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.


CENTRAL BEAUTY SUPPLY SOUTH WESTERN ONTARIO www.centralbeautysupply.ca

VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES GREATER TORONTO AREA www.venusbeauty.com

ICON SALON SYSTEMS BRITISH COLUMBIA www.iconbc.com

©2020 PRAVANA All Rights Rights Reserved. Reserved. 1-855-PRAVANA. 1-855-PRAVANA. || www.pravana.com www.pravana.com || PRAVANA All

E.S.P. SALON SALES MANITOBA, ALBERTA, SASKATCHEWAN www.espsalonsales.com


March 2020

37 F E AT U R E

Bridal Hair’s Secret Weapon

Think hair extensions are too niche? Think again! Learn how they can help boost your business—especially during bridal season.

40 F E AT U R E

Getting Real about Retail

Does your retail strategy feel redundant? Maximize your take-home sales with tips from salon owners who are changing things up.

37

B R I DA L H A I R ’ S SECR ET W EA PON

43 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

“Offering extensions is not a trend; it’s a long-term, high-end service that brings you loyal clientele.”

NAHA Canadian winners; Suzie Clelland; Robin Bacon; Sharon Malcolm; Soyeon Jin

—VÉRONIQUE BEAUPRÉ, A CONTESSA-WINNING HAIRSTYLIST AND OWNER OF LOCALB IN MONTREAL ON THE COVER: HAIR: SILAS TSANG, BLUSHES, OTTAWA MAKEUP: KYLIE O’TOOLE PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 11


14

58

Editor’s Letter

C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Jamie Dorge

Find out how this Winnipegbased hairstylist found inspiration in unexpected places and regained a sense of artistic freedom when working on her Contessa collection.

16

Publisher’s Note

18 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Don’t lose out on more amazing content! Hop onto our website for more articles, collections and industry news.

21 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Spring is right around the corner—and so are so many hair and nail launches! Find out everything there is to know about the latest care, colour, styling and finishing products.

59 P RO F I L E

50

SUZIE CLELL A N D, M A RC A N T O N I , U.K.

What Dreams are Made of

A candid conversation with celebrity hairstylist Adir Abergel on his influential social media presence and unique approach to styling.

60 INTER IORS

Evolution of Beauty

Dive into Moroccanoil’s new academy—a stunningly creative space that is designed for today’s hairstylist.

63 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

66 # N O F I LT E R

Influencer Spotlight

Learn more about how these influential Canadian hairstylists have used social media as a tool to promote tangible business.

54

S H A RO N M A LCOLM, S H A RO N M A LCOLM H A IR DR ESSING, IRELAND

12 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020


TIME TO

SHINE Healthy, nourished hair begins with Moroccanoil Treatment. The original in argan oil-infused haircare.

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y

MoroccanoilProfessionals.com


Editor’s Letter —

must-haves

CURLY HAIR

A full collection of must-have tools for all curl types & textures.

Flexy Brush

NEW & EXCITING

Quick-Dry Styling Gloves

Styling Brush

Pop-Up Curl Diffuser

When speaking with salon owners and hairstylists from across the country, it’s clear that many are facing similar challenges in today’s business climate. Whether it’s building a new clientele, increasing retail sales or navigating the everchanging world of social media, more salons are focused on getting creative and thinking outside the box. As a community, our common struggles are what unite us. More than ever before, salons are stepping up their game to stay current and competitive, and the willingness shown by so many to share knowledge and help others grow is inspiring. Case in point: The stories found in this issue. For example, in “Bridal Hair’s Secret Weapon” (pg. 37), we spoke with hairstylists and educators who are utilizing hair extensions for bridal clients—and beyond—to expand their revenue streams. And in “Getting Real with Retail” (pg. 40), we chatted with retail experts who shared their simple and easily adapted tips for maximizing take-home sales. Though we’re all in search of the “secret” to a successful business, it comes down to excelling at what you’re good at while also being open to change. It’s these approaches that will simultaneously propel you forward and prepare you for what’s to come. We’re rooting for you!

I N T R O D E A L S N O W AVA I L A B L E TO ORDER, CONTACT:

Tor ont o

7 193 Ba rber and Be auty Suppl y Since

Jennifer@tbbs.ca 416 -787 -1211 | www.tbbs.ca 112 Orfus Rd North York, ON

14 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

Being BusinessMinded


cnd.com

NEW

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MAG ICAL TOP IARY MAGICAL TO PIA RY

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F UL L , EV E N COV E R AGE • N NO O NAIL N A IL DAMAG E • 5-MINU TE RE MOVAL • 100+ COLOR S *When used as directed according to the CND® Shellac® brand application and removal protocol available at CND.com +1.858.766.9500 800.833.NAIL CND, SHELLAC and VINYLUX are registered trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. © 2020 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail Artist: Winnie Huang #19-CND-0493


Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 29, ISSUE 2 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ART DIRECTOR (ACTING) Barbara Burrows ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ON LEAVE) Stephanie Gallant ASSISTANT EDITOR Karoun Chahinian karoun@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Joecy Zhang joecy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Paul C, Lucy Mazzucco

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

For the Love of Products

Laura Dunphy Publisher

16 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

Subscription Rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

The good news: Retail is hot! Consumers are loving professional haircare more than ever. The not-so-good news: Other supply channels are chasing this desirable market. With online options such as Amazon offering consumers an array of brands and products, it can feel daunting to compete with. Thankfully, there’s plenty of evidence to confirm that there’s room for everyone. For example, the ongoing demand for various types of balayage services makes salon-quality home maintenance a must. And those trendy mermaid colours? Since they’re so high-maintenance, colour-refreshing shampoo and conditioners are non-negotiable. As the luxury category continues to grow, it’s clear that women love their luxe washes and treatments, and this can have a very positive spillover effect for more price-conscious brands. Success in this realm starts with a well-organized retail program, so it may be time to reassess your strategies. Research suggests that the industry average for total retail volume should be approximately 15 to 20 per cent, and with so many retail experts available to advise you (your distributor or business consultant among them), getting on the path to success is easier than it’s ever been. One easy and current approach to consider if you haven’t already: Encourage your clients to buy and support local. This can really touch the hearts of some consumers, but it needs to be well promoted throughout your salon’s marketing initiatives; from social media channels to your website, this message should be front and centre. And remember that personal recommendations are a perennial ace in your pocket. No one knows or can assess your client’s hair better than you, so don’t be shy about making product suggestions. From styling to at-home maintenance and everything in between, your expertise is invaluable!

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.


THE CREW STYLE MAKERS

STYLED WITH FIBER CREAM

Get it now at: AmericanCrew.com


Congratulations to Heidi Kenney from Yarmouth, N.S. on her first-place win in the “So You Think You Can Style?” Holiday Hair contest! Learn more about this winning look’s styling techniques, products and inspiration.

From bold yellows to splashes of violet, explore some of this season’s trending colours in our collection archive.

18 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Colour Pop

So You Think You Can Style?

Styling How-Tos Awards season has officially begun! Want to learn red carpet styling tips and tricks to create similar looks for your clients? Check out our how-to articles and recaps.

G E T R E A DY

Contessa Countdown Can’t wait for the 32nd annual Contessa Awards? Stay tuned for the latest updates on rule/category changes, gala date, and more on SalonMagazine.ca!

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: MICHAEL RACKETT, RUSH HAIR, U.K., MAKEUP: ROSEANNA VELIN AND KRISTINA PAVLOVIC, WARDROBE: MAGDALENA JACOBSS, PHOTO: CHRIS BULEZUIK; HAIR & PHOTO: HEIDI KENNEY; INSTAGRAM

salonmagazine.ca


ELEVATE YOUR ART

Great Lengths' ethically sourced and 100% customizable premium human hair extensions help stylists take their careers to the next level. Registration is open for all 2020 Certification classes. Discover creativity, empowerment, and opportunity with Great Lengths. APPLY FOR CERTIFICATION TODAY. VISIT GREATLENGTHSCANADA.COM OR CALL 1-800-461-9302 TO TAKE THE NEXT STEP.

7-TIME WINNER of Best Hair Extension Brand

@greatlengthscanada

#greatlengthscanada

info@greatlengthscanada.com


#SalonRCA VOTING BEGINS APRIL 1 READERSCHOICE.SALONMAGAZINE.CA

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

1. VOTE for your favourites in Canada’s only professional beauty awards!

The choice is yours!

2. WIN 2 tickets to the Contessa Awards gala on Sunday, November 8, 2020 in Toronto!

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, who are of age of majority in province/territory of residence at time of entry. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 1, 2020 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 15, 2020 (“Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 22, 2020 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2021 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room at the Westin Harbour Castle, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.


SHOW HAIR SOME EXTRA LOVE THIS SEASON WITH THE LATEST CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING PRODUCTS THAT ARE SURE TO “SPRING” UP YOUR LOOKS.

PHOTO: KEVIN.MURPHY

➣ The delicate balance between light and shadow is at the forefront of Radiant Flux, the latest collection by Kevin.Murphy. Shot in a historic factory that provided a ton of natural light, the collection features a range of mesmerizing models sporting “lived-in” hair colour. According to the brand’s founder, Kevin Murphy, one of the creative goals was to emphasize the importance of light and contrast when it came to hair colour. From luxe radiant brunettes and iridescent violets to hauntingly dark blues, this collection was created to inspire salons and stylists to play with colour as if it was a work of art—because it is! To view more photos from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 21


Hairlines — NEWS

Paint the Town Red Explore the softer side of red with Wella’s Koleston Perfect Pure Auburn shades. For those clients curious about dipping into the reds—but may also be apprehensive about their wearability— Wella Professionals’ Koleston Perfect Pure Auburn will blow them away. With three new shades featuring either a warm gold or copper undertone, these hues can be customized to suit any depth or intensity. From vibrant to soft, rich to earthy, or dark to light, these shades do it all and are formulated to bring highly faded or damaged hair back to life.

N E W A N D I M P ROV E D

Brown Boost Protect your brunette clients from orange undertones with Redken’s Color Extend Brownlights. Show your dark-haired clients some love with Redken’s new Color Extend Brownlights shampoo and conditioner. Formulated for both natural and highlighted brunettes, this daily-use blue toning set helps fight stubborn brassy and orange undertones. Using gloves, simply apply the shampoo and let it sit for three to five minutes. Then, rinse, follow with the conditioner and let it work its magic for five to 10 minutes. 22 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

It’s back and better than ever! The brand is relaunching its beloved Majirel colour line with the addition of 12 cooler beige and ash shades that stay cool and multidimensional—even after 21 washes! Majirel’s packaging is also getting a facelift with an eco-friendly redesign and a new, colour-coded system for the line’s 10 shade families, making it even more stylist-friendly. With so much change, one thing remains the same—Majirel’s renowned formula, which continues to provide consistent coverage and even colour while protecting hair throughout the colour process for soft and smooth results.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, JOICO CANADA, GOLDWELL CANADA, MOROCCANOIL, LORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, REDKEN CANADA

Rediscover L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Majirel colour range.


Heavy Metal

Drop the Dryer Find out how Joico’s Zero Heat will give your blow-dryer the vacation it deserves. Give your client’s hair a break from heat styling with Joico’s new Zero Heat Air Dry Styling Crème. Available in Fine/Medium and Thick for different hair types, both are formulated with flexible polymers and rose hip oil to boost shine, reduce frizz, and hold hair’s natural texture without sticky residue. Plus, it helps reduce hair’s natural drying time and offers 24-hour humidity control.

Hairlines — NEWS

Discover what makes Goldwell’s new Elumen and Elumen Play shades so “cool.” Your colour paint box just got more exciting with six cool new shades from Goldwell’s Elumen Play. The four new metallic semi-permanent shades—Metallic Berry, Metallic Purple, Metallic Petrol and Metallic Silver— feature shimmering effects to add a touch of shine to any colour look. The shades can be mixed and matched and fade true-to-tone by up to 100 per cent. Goldwell has also added new grey shades (Light Grey and Medium Grey) to their Elumen lineup, which are great for lighter touch-ups or full colour looks.

Moroccanoil Tools Collection Perfectly Polished Titanium Flat Iron Bevelled titanium plates allow for quick heat transfer with effortless glide. | |

Smooth Style Ceramic Heated Brush Ceramic bristles heat up quickly and help minimize static for shiny, frizz-free results.

“The ergonomic soft-touch grip, digital display and automatic shutoff are all amazing new features. Plus, the four-inch titanium plates and extra-long barrel are a game changer. Not to mention, our new design is super eye-catching, and every stylist loves a good-looking tool!”

— KEVIN HUGHES, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR MOROCCANOIL

|

Everlasting Curl Titanium Curling Iron Features an extra-long titanium barrel that heats up in less than 60 seconds. |

|

T O O L B OX

Power Performance Ionic Hair Dryer Lightweight, quiet and reduces drying time, with speed-dry nozzle and curl diffuser.

Smart Styling Infrared Hair Dryer Locks in moisture without overheating, thanks to patented honeycomb technology and FAR-infrared light.

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 23


Make it Big!

Hairlines — NEWS

Violets AND Blues?!

Three ways to pump up the volume with Big Sexy Hair’s new and improved products.

Discover the five new shades added to Paul Mitchell’s The Demi colour line.

Big Sexy Hair just got even better! Thanks to three new volumizing products, each formulated with collagen, proteins, amino acids and peptides, they strengthen and repair hair while reducing breakage and improving elasticity.

Things just got a lot more colourful, thanks to these five new shades that offer true violet and blue ash undertones. Whether it’s cool blondes or dark-blue black, hairstylists can use the shades individually or intermixed to customize tones for their desired look. With a conditioning, ammoniafree formula, The Demi shades last between four to six weeks and leave hair looking shiny and healthy. What more could your clients ask for?

Boost Up Volumizing Shampoo Cleanse hair from root to tip with collageninfused shampoo that adds up to 30 per cent more body to your client’s locks, while also improving hair’s manageability.

➣ Say goodbye to dull and brittle hair with Amika’s Flash Instant Shine Mask. Breathe some life back into your clients’ hair with this treatment mask that’s stacked with nourishing ingredients like hydrolyzed flax seed, amino acid complex, sea buckthorn berry and antioxidants. Helping to protect hair against environmental stressors while sealing the cuticle, this postshampoo treatment lives up to its name as it leaves hair with a silky, hydrated finish in just one minute!

24 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Brush it Off Customize your styling routine with Termix Evolution’s new brush line. Let’s face it: Not all hair brushes are one-size-fits-all. And that’s why Termix Evolution is changing the game, with a line of premium round brushes designed specifically for each hair type. Whether your client has fine, medium or thick hair, each brush features ceramic technology that protects hair’s health and provides smoother results, while speeding up drying time by 30 per cent. The brushes are made with heat-resistant nylon bristles and are designed to eliminate frizz-causing static and withstand high heat temperatures (without the use of glue for extra durability). Plus, they each feature diamond-shaped vents to promote better airflow, helping you and your clients achieve smoother, longlasting results. The brushes are available via Dannyco Professional, the exclusive Canadian distributor.

Boost Up Volumizing Conditioner Get all the lift without the weight, thanks to this lightweight conditioner that provides up to 24 hours of humidity control to protect hair from frizz.

Fun Raiser Volumizing Dry Texture Spray Seal the deal with this dry texture spray that delivers up to 48 hours of humidity resistance and style memory, while also absorbing excess oils.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, SEXY HAIR, LORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, KAO CANADA, CURLY HAIR SOLUTIONS, DESIGN.ME HAIR, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, AMIKA

SILK Y H A IR IN SECONDS!


➣ T RO P H Y L I F E

Get ready for L’Oréal’s Style & Color Trophy 2020!

Breathe life back into your grey looks with Oribe’s Silverati Illuminating Treatment Masque and Pomade.

DID YOU KNOW? THE WINNING COLOR TROPHY TEAM WILL COMPETE IN L’ORÉAL’S INTERNATIONAL STYLE & COLOR TROPHY IN 2021 IN PARIS!

With more and more clients embracing their grey, silver and white hair, this new duo is formulated with anti-aging ingredients including pea peptide, along with linoleic acid, which strengthens hair to help reduce breakage. The masque restores strength and shine to dry and aging strands, while also correcting yellow undertones. The styling pomade provides flexible control and includes unique silver pigments that highlight and add a glossy shine to naturally grey and professionally coloured hair.

Hairlines — NEWS

Mark your calendars for April 5 and 6, when L’Oréal Professionnel presents its Style & Color Trophy 2020 at the Palais des congrès in Montreal. This renowned competition features inspiring creativity combined with the excitement and energy of a live hair competition. In addition to the coveted Color Trophy award, the competition also includes awards for masters, men’s, next generation and schools. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit colorstyletrophy.ca.

Silver Lining

Curl Up!

Equip your curly styles with the latest accessories and tools from Curly Hair Solutions.

Shine On

Three new reasons to love Design.ME Hair’s Gloss.ME hair care line. After last year’s successful launch of Gloss.ME Hair Serum, the brand has expanded its line with a Hydrating Shampoo, Conditioner and Treatment Mask. Among the shampoo and conditioner’s ingredients is a blend of cannabis sativa seed oil, argan oil and hydrolyzed protein that help eliminate frizz and lock in moisture, while the treatment mask strengthens hair and provides instant shine.

Let’s face it: Clients with curly hair can often use all the help they can get! Whether it’s styling brushes, alligator clips or diffusers, Curly Hair Solutions has unveiled a new line of accessories and tools that these clients (and you!) are sure to love. From quick-dry styling gloves that help define ringlets while reducing drying time, to a silicone pop-up diffuser that will distribute heat to hair without over-heating or adding frizz, the brand lives up to its name—offering a solution for all textured hair grievances. So, whether it’s to give yourself a bit of a break by reducing styling time, or to offer an at-home care solution for your clients, just watch how quickly your add-on sales will jump.

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 25


Hairlines — NEWS

So Fresh and So Clean Cleanse hair from the inside out with Sachajuan’s AntiPollution Shampoo and Conditioner. Does your client’s hair need a reset? Help them maintain a healthy moisture balance with Sachajuan’s Anti-Pollution Shampoo and Conditioner. Containing climbazole and piroctone olamine to remove dandruff and soothe irritated skin, as well as lactic acid to control oil, these products help boost hair’s elasticity, moisture and shine.

➣ R E A DY, S E T, R E V E L !

The largest professional beauty show in Canada is back! Revel in Beauty, presented by ABA Canada, is returning to the Metro Toronto Convention Centre on April 5 and 6. With more than 100 exhibitors in attendance, the annual show will feature everything from on-stage presentations to exciting live competitions to look-and-learn classes with some of the industry’s leading artists, including Matthew Collins, Matty Conrad and many more. Visit abacanada.com for more information and to purchase tickets.

Are You a Stylemaker?

26 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Turn Up the Heat

Straighten out your hair struggles with Olivia Garden’s new Titanium + Ion flat iron. Whether your client has thick or coarse hair, Olivia Garden’s latest flat iron is designed with the professional hairstylist in mind. Featuring titanium 3D floating plates that add tension without snagging the hair, the flat iron includes dual-ceramic heaters that reach up to 455°F with even heat distribution and temperature recovery. Not only will the flat iron help you achieve smoother and shinier results with less frizz, thanks to its ion generator, but it’s equipped with features that stylists will love: A 10-foot, 360° swivel cord, cool tips for applying extra pressure when styling, an ergonomic thumb rest for additional comfort, and travel lock to keep the iron in a closed position to protect plates from damage.

PHOTOS: ABA CANADA, SACHAJUAN, OLIVIA GARDEN, AMERICAN CREW CANADA

With a mission to continue inspiring and connecting men’s hairstylists from around the world, the new Crew Stylemakers campaign is all about education to encourage hairstylists and barbers to become leaders in the industry and take their craft to the next level. This ongoing social media-based movement encourages stylists to upload their work and prove themselves as a top trendsetter (or “stylemaker”) in the industry. In doing so, the campaign hopes to help expand the possibilities for clients and strengthen the partnership between client and stylist (or barber). American Crew will be launching their official video and lookbook of the top styles, which will include techniques on the brand’s cutting-edge cuts, styles and products. Three of the looks included: The University, The Crop, and The Taper, a newer style that’s great for high-textured hair types, with a seamless blend and classic neckline. Follow along with the campaign on AmericanCrew.com and the brand’s Instagram, Facebook and YouTube channels.

Find out how American Crew is challenging you to think outside the box with their latest campaign.


©2020 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 800.829.4422 OR VISIT OPI.COM. MODEL IS WEARING MY CHIHUAHUA DOESN’T BITE ANYMORE.

— FEATURING MY CHIHUAHUA DOESN’T BITE ANYMORE

Discover the trendsetting colors of Ciudad de Mexico. Bring the world of art, heritage, and bold self-expression to your clients’ fingertips with the Mexico City Collection by OPI. LAUNCHES FEBRUARY 2020 Shop these NEW shades in GelColor, Infinite Shine, Nail Lacquer, and Powder Perfection

opi.com • #OPI MEXICOCITY • #COLOR IS THE ANSWER


Hairlines — TREND REPORT

Runway Report: Spring/Summer 2020 From New York to London to Paris to Milan, check out the hottest looks that graced the runways and gave us a sneak peek of hair trends for spring and summer. Plus, find out how you can recreate them in your salon.

Finger Waves

Redken Guts 10 Volumizing Spray Mousse Redken’s global creative director Guido Palau took us back to the 1940s with his romantic updos for Chloé’s Spring 2020 show at Paris Fashion Week. Palau first prepped the hair with Redken’s Guts 10 Volumizing Spray Mousse and blowdried for volume. He then curled the front pieces of hair towards the back of the head, and used a wide-toothed comb to soften the curls.

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Finger waves are such a timeless style, but they can be made modern—especially when done by Moroccanoil’s artistic director, Kevin Hughes. For The Blonds’ runway show at NYFW, Hughes was aiming for looks that fell under the themes of modern showgirl and Moulin Rouge, but in a way that highlighted every model’s individual beauty. With that in mind, he showcased finger waves by first creating a deep side or middle part on dry hair and applied the Moroccanoil Strong Styling Hold Gel. He then used a tail comb to create a C-shape along the part, and continued making that shape in opposite directions down the hair line by using his middle finger and a fine-tooth comb, pinching the ridges of the waves between his fingers until it was waved throughout the hair.

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTOS: REDKEN CANADA, MOROCCANOIL, DYSON CANADA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Nostalgic Updos

Moroccanoil Strong Styling Hold Gel


Amp Up the Texture Messy buns made it onto the runway at Toronto Fashion Week under the direction of international Redken artist, Jorge Joao. Wanting to spice up a regular low bun with more texture, Joao created a low ponytail and wrapped it into a messy bun. Once secured, he backcombed the top section while using Quick Tease 15 Backcombing Finishing Spray, wrapped the ends around the base of the bun and secured it with additional pins.

Redken Quick Tease 15 Backcombing Finishing Spray

Flower Girl Dyson Supersonic Professional Flowers were really in the air at Kate Spade’s show in New York, which featured a concept of rejuvenation and effortless beauty that was embodied through the hair. Led by hairstylist James Pecis, the models sported delicate braids or braided buns that were all accented with a vibrant scarf. The looks were set with the Dyson Supersonic Professional dryer, which was paired with a fine-tooth comb for a clean, finished look.

Slicked Back L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Pli

Beach Waves Wella EIMI Ocean Spritz Salt Spray Natural, undone waves are still going strong in 2020 and were perfectly captured by Renya Xydis, a global creative artist for Wella Professionals, at Nicky Zimmermann’s NYFW show, Wavelength. Pushing for a surfy, ’70s-inspired look with a modern twist, Xydis used Wella’s EIMI Ocean Spritz Salt Spray to add texture and a curling wand to create softer waves, both of which are perfect for creating spring-and-summer ready hair looks.

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA FOR MORE HOW-TOS FROM SPRING/SUMMER 2020 FASHION WEEK!

It looks like we’ll be giving our dryers a break again this year, because the semi-wet hair trend is here to stay. Only this time, we’re really pushing hair back and focusing on the hairline. Lead hairstylist Tina Outen showcased this style at Rejina Pyo’s show at London Fashion Week, where she first prepped the hair with Tecni.Art Pli and began blow-drying while brushing strands backward.

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J U S T P E AC H Y

Hairlines — NAILS

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

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OPI Say hello to spring with Coral-ing Your Spirit Animal, a stunning cream coral from the Mexico City collection.

LCN Breathe in that sunshine with springtime pastels from the I Love My Smoothie collection.

Golden Glam

The 2020 awards season was off to a dazzling start with the Golden Globes red carpet. Here are a few of our favourite nail looks from the night.

SPOTLIGHT

A “Cure” for Your Nail Blues Reduce your curing time with Bio Sculpture’s Spectra. Designed with the power of UV and LED, this state-of-the-art lamp features Power Intelligent Technology that ensures optimal curing while still being gentle on nails. With an automatic on/off sensor, 30- or 60-second curing options, detachable base plate and retractable stand for pedicures, Spectra also features a sleek and chic design with a removable silicone hand rest and minimalistic LCD screen.

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4 Actress Joey King took her optical illusion look to a new level by dipping into the negative space nail trend, with fine line designs in black and white. 5 Idina Menzel rocked bold red nails fit for a queen—embellished with black and silver accents. 6 Nothing dresses up a simple grey mani like dozens of gorgeous Swarovski crystals, as seen on model-actress Hunter Schafer.

CND Be pretty in pink with Soft Peony from the English Garden collection—perfect for bridal season.

Gelish Get garden-party ready with Gelish’s Two of a Kind collection, featuring Call My Blush.

Artistic Nail Design It’s all peaches and cream with Beauty & the Buds from the Beaute in Bloom collection.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, TWITTER, OPI, LCN, CND CANADA, GELISH, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, BIO SCULPTURE CANADA

1 Actress Natasha Lyonne embraced the black-on-black look with dark yet elegant half-moon nails. 2 Actress Busy Philipps sported a modern take on the French mani—oxblood with blush pink tips. 3 Jennifer Lopez nailed the day-to-night transition by having celebrity nail artist Tom Bachik top her classic ombre French mani with a pop of glitter before the after-party.



Minding Your Business The demand for men’s hair and grooming services continues to grow. So much so that it can be difficult for many men’s stylists and barbers to stand out from the crowd. We spoke with two of Canada’s leading men’s hair experts about how they have grown their business and clientele.

new trends. Guys are simple creatures and I’m pretty traditional in only offering haircuts and taking care of beards. We used to offer traditional shaves, but we stopped doing them last year because we weren’t doing very many,” he says. “We decided to keep it simple; my clientele seems to be really happy and keep coming back regularly.”

1. Get Creative

3. Power of Positivity Whether in a salon or barbershop, it’s important to have a positive and welcoming environment for your clients. This level of comfort paired with quality services is what will make clients want to spread the word about your business to their friends and family. “Everybody’s personality attracts a certain clientele. I have quiet barbers, I have loud barbers, I even have a barber who’s really into fitness and she’s brought in a fitness clientele; it’s all over the map,” says Culala. “Having these different styles of barbers who attract different types of clients is a form of entrepreneurial advertising for us.”

Don’t think you can be creative with men’s hair services? Think again! The Hangover Treatment at the OGX (The Original Grooming Experts) in Toronto is a playfully named service that’s most requested by clients on Saturdays and Sundays (not too shocking!) and includes a wash, hot towel treatment, lineup and style. “The name speaks for itself. Guys come in looking hungover or tired, so we’ll bring them back to life with a shampoo and hot towel. It’s like a men’s take on a facial,” says salon owner Jason Culala, adding that it’s helpful to think of fresh ideas in order to stand out from the sea of barbershops and salons.

2. Focus on Quality (not Quantity)

You may want to try new trends and services to get more male clients into your doors. However that’s not always the best route, says Pete Goupil, a barber at Salon Espace C in Montreal. He says offering quality services has a bigger impact on your clients rather than trying to shake things up with experimentation. “I’m not about all those face masks or

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4. Stay Social

If you’re not already taking advantage of social media platforms like Instagram, Twitter and Facebook as free marketing tools, get on it! It’s as easy as snapping and sharing a few photos a day. Having an established online presence and public portfolio will legitimize your business and help bring in and retain clients. Case in point: Goupil set a professional goal for himself this year

to focus more on education, which includes virtual teaching (in the form of video tutorials) as a means to maximize his salon’s social media presence. “I feel like virtual education is the key to the future,” he says.

5. Build a Strong Team It would be impossible to run a successful salon without a skilled and loyal team in your corner. That being said, both Culala and Goupil stress the importance of making sure your team is trustworthy and accountable in order to work towards long-term growth. Goupil also recommends hiring barbers with hairstyling backgrounds as having more extensive cutting and styling training translates well in barbering. Plus, it never hurts to have some extra skill and creativity on your team! “That’s the best of both worlds,” he says. “Being able to use the structure of barbering, but the finesse of hairstyling, is what I would call, ‘Modern Barbering.’” 6. Stay inspired At the end of the day, passion and hard work override everything. Culala emphasizes how effective it can be to simply be present and put in the work and hours needed in order to make it thrive. It’s important to remind yourself why you love what you do, and to dig yourself out of any ruts you encounter along your career path. Clients pick up on your passion and energy, and it can be enough for them to want to come back.

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK

Hairlines — MEN

FIND OUT SIX WAYS TO HELP GROW YOUR MEN’S HAIR SERVICES.


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Hairlines — COLOUR

➣ NAMED AS THE PANTONE COLOR OF THE YEAR, WE SPOKE WITH TWO COLOUR EXPERTS ABOUT HOW TO MAKE THIS TRENDY SHADE APPROACHABLE FOR A WIDE RANGE OF CLIENTELE.

Classic Blue

Pump Up the Colour Of course, many of us remember when denim hair was a big trend a few years ago. But Classic Blue is more of a departure. “I’ve been getting requests for more saturated blues,” she says, “but without the smokiness we were seeing with the denim trend. I'm really enjoying this shift because we were seeing a lot of very smoky tones for a long time.” “I don’t think denim blue had the longevity that I think classic blue will have,” adds Marlo Steenman, an award-winning colourist from The Men’s Room in St. Albert, Alberta. “It’s deeper, elegant and a bit more versatile. It’s like wearing blue jeans or a blue suit. There is a difference.” Taking it to the Next Level “Colour placement is everything,” says Steenman, who is a brand ambassador for Revlon Professional. “It’s to enhance the haircut. For example, if you have this beautiful bob and this longer piece sitting near the face, that’s an accent that I would make blue. It’s not necessarily about making the whole head blue, so it’s very versatile.” 34 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Revlonissimo Colorsmetique Satinescent 919 Midnight Blue Permanent hair colour with a satin finish.

Wella Professionals Color Fresh Create Semi-permanent colour with pastelization and true to tone fading.

PRO TIP STEENMAN ADVISES AGAINST OVER-LIGHTENING THE HAIR. “I’M COMFORTABLE LIGHTENING TO A LEVEL SEVEN. YOU DON’T ALWAYS NEED HAIR TO BE WHITE TO ACHIEVE BLUE. YOU JUST NEED TO TAKE THE HAIR TO THE RESPONSIBLE UNDERLYING PIGMENT.”

Hair condition is key before even considering classic blue as a possibility. However, it’s important not to get discouraged if your client doesn’t have virgin hair. “If a client comes in and the integrity of the hair is not there, I’ll recommend a haircare regimen,” says Wentzell, who is a brand educator for Wella Professionals. She suggests Wellaplex No. 3 and Fusionplex to help clients repair and strengthen hair, enabling it to withstand the lightening process. Since classic blue is more saturated, it can be a high-maintenance colour that will require the proper take-home care routine. “I recommend that clients not wash their hair immediately after the service, and timing their washes to be further apart. This is not an everyday shampoo type of colour if you want to maintain its vibrancy,” she says.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: HAIR: CLAYDE BAUMANN FOR D&J AMBROSE, U.K, MAKEUP: SOPHIE COX, STYLING: JACKIE AMBROSE, PHOTO: MATT PARRI THOMAS, GETTYSTOCK, COLOUR: ANTHONY OSBORNE AND ROYSTON BLYTH, U.K. STYLING: NICK MALENKO, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES

Blue hair? How passé! Not so fast, says Jerica Wentzell, colourist and owner of Ginger Snap Salon in Sudbury, Ont. “At first, I thought [Classic Blue] was so classic that I considered it boring,” she admits. “But the more I thought about it, the colour makes a lot of sense. We're starting a new decade. There are lots of changes in culture. The colour is quite comforting.”


➣ According to Pantone, Classic Blue is a “timeless and enduring blue hue” and “brings a sense of peace and tranquility to the human spirit.”

Playing it Safe While you may be eager to try out this shade on your clients, it’s important to take into account their lifestyle. “I’m a big fan of asking the clients about what their workplace allows, and how much maintenance they’re willing to put in,” says Wentzell. “Sometimes the client would be perfectly suited for this, with a saturated blue from root to tip. Or they may be more comfortable with a balayage or root shadow that’s designed to fade over time into a more wearable tone.” Regardless of how your client decides to wear the shade, there’s one feature about Classic Blue that should be music to colourists’ ears! “I actually think there will be a trend of people going back to the salon and getting it done properly,” says Steenman. “Clients can’t [achieve this colour] themselves,” adds Wentzell. “It requires our skill level and training to achieve these tones.” PRO TIP WENTZELL RECOMMENDS USING COOLER WATER TO PREVENT COLOUR BLEEDING, AND A HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY TO PROLONG COLOUR VIBRANCY.

Revlon Professional Nutri Color Crème 190 A take-home colour refresher to maintain vibrancy.

Classic Blue…for Men? Wella Professionals Invigo Brillance A colour-preserving shampoo, conditioner and mask designed for fine or coarse hair.

That’s right—this shade can be worn on the longest of locks or shortest of crops. “Men are experimenting with everything right now and it’s incredible,” says Steenman. “There’s a confidence and it’s what makes it so sexy.”

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hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

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Spring is in the Hair

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1 GET BLOWN AWAY with Joico’s Dream Blowout, a thermal protection cream that will reduce blow-drying time while shielding hair from humidity and frizz. 2 NOURISH AND REPLENISH with Aveda’s Nutriplenish Leave-in Conditioner, which detangles and hydrates hair for up to 72 hours while also offering thermal heat protection up to 450°F. 3 FUEL YOUR HAIR with KMS AddPower Shampoo and Strengthening Fluid, which strengthen and thicken fine hair from the inside out, thanks to a blend of organic white tea extract and rice protein. 4 RESCUE HAIR with Reconstruct, a vitamin C-infused conditioning mask from AG Hair Care that transforms dry and damaged hair for softer, smoother and more radiant results. 5 EXTEND YOUR STYLES with Kevin.Murphy’s Ever.Smooth, a heat-activated spray that helps lock in your looks with a frizz-free finish.

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TEXT VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C

WITH A NEW SEASON UPON US, IT’S TIME TO SHAKE UP YOUR PRODUCT ROUTINE! FIND OUT WHY THESE ARE SURE TO DO THE TRICK.


Bridal Hair’s Secret Weapon Every bride dreams of having perfect hair on their special day. Find out how offering hair extensions in your salon can boost your hair services and business this bridal season. BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN

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Expand Your Horizons

PRO TIP BEAUPRÉ RECOMMENDS KEEPING TABS ON RECENTLY ENGAGED CLIENTS AND REACHING OUT AT LEAST ONE YEAR BEFORE THEIR SPECIAL DAY.

Marriott says he always recommends extensions to brides and bridal parties in order to meet their high hair expectations. “It’s about being honest with them and letting them know that to create the effect they want on their special day, this is what they’re going to need to invest in,” he says. Many brides arrive at the salon with photos or an idea of the look they have in mind for the day, but don’t realize they don’t have enough volume or length to achieve it naturally. They also aren’t aware that extensions can add structure to hair, which can even help maintain heat styling for a longer period of time. Marriott, who is a master educator for Hotheads Hair Extensions, adds that the best way to sell the idea of extensions, especially to first-time clients, is to actually demonstrate how they look on them. “Your clients need to see how big of a difference [extensions] make.”

Building Loyalty

Clients who choose to wear extensions long-term are advised to return to the salon every few months for touch-ups and maintenance, which can help your salon with pre-booking and building client loyalty. Véronique Beaupré, owner of LocalB in Montreal, has been working with Great Lengths hair extensions for more than 20 years and has developed a loyal client base because of it. “Clients book in advance, show up on time and will come back at least once every five months for their extensions service. She will come back every three weeks for a hair touch-up and sometimes once a week for a blow-dry. 38 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Hotheads Hair Extensions Sew-In Weft Made with human hair and available in more than 21 colours, their latest hand-tied wefts are seamless and ultra-lightweight—so your bride is comfortable on her special day.

PAGE 37: PHOTO GETTYSTOCK, HAIR: RAFAEL BUENO, RAFAEL BUENO PELUQUEROS, SPAIN, MAKEUP: ARIADNA CAPARRÓS, STYLING: RODOLFO MCARTNEY, PHOTO: JUAN TRUJILLO; GREAT LENGTHS CANADA

With bridal season quickly approaching, it’s a perfect time for hairstylists to maximize their use of hair extensions. From updos to ponytails to soft glam waves, extensions can be a lot more versatile than you may think—and they can be a great option for adding volume, colour and shape. “I get a lot of clients who completely forget about extensions, and they can make such a difference to their hair,” says Jesse Marriott, a senior stylist and extensions specialist at Utopia Hair & Lash Studio in Red Deer, Alta.


“WHEN CLIENTS COME TO YOU FOR THEIR EXTENSIONS, THEY COME TO YOU FOR EVERYTHING ELSE. THERE’S A LOT OF TRUST THERE, BRINGING YOU EXTREMELY FAITHFUL CLIENTS WHO WILL BE SITTING IN YOUR CHAIR FOR YEARS.” — VÉRONIQUE BEAUPRÉ, OWNER OF LOCALB IN MONTREAL

Dry-Cleaning? An easy way to bring in an extra stream of revenue with extensions is by offering shampooing and styling services for hair pieces. Marriott’s salon offers a five-day “dry-cleaning” service for extensions, whether it’s for brides preparing for their application or avid-extension users who want to keep their pieces in top shape. “It actually gives you revenue in your salon without actually having a client in your chair,” says Marriott. He adds that his team started this service to give junior stylists an opportunity to practice working with extensions without having a strong clientele in place, while also ensuring their clients are taking the best care of their “investment.”

This is the kind of business you’re going to get from hair extensions. It’s a core value that you want so you’re not always looking for new clients or extra dollars,” she says. “When clients come to you for their extensions, they come to you for everything else. There’s a lot of trust there, bringing you extremely faithful clients who will be sitting in your chair for years.” Maintenance is key when it comes to extensions, and this involves using the proper products to keep them clean, tangle-free and moisturized. That’s where your salon’s retail products come in! Make sure you stock up on extension-friendly products without drying ingredients like alcohol. Remember: If clients are investing hundreds of dollars on high-quality extensions, they will want to make sure they last. “Women with extensions are such loyal clients. They have to pre-book to be in my chair to have their maintenance done and that gives me an opportunity for retail sales to maintain the extensions and to talk about hair colour services,” says Kassy Moen-Froehlich, lead educator for Philocaly. “I find extensions create a really loyal clientele and they’re going to be the best advertising for you, and the best way to fill your chair.”

Great Lengths Pre-Bonded These popular bonded extensions are virtually undetectable, come in a wide range of shades and last up to four to six months with proper maintenance.

Get in the Game Tips for how your salon can begin offering extension services. Get Educated Once you’ve decided on the extension brands you would like to offer, connect with their educators and arrange for your stylists to be trained in various application techniques. Many extension brands offer classes and training programs that teach application, cutting, styling, colouring and even social media marketing techniques.

Get Your Name Out Once you and your team are confident in your extension skills, it’s time to spread the word! Create and post content on social media to let your clients know about your new services. Remember: Your regular clients are your best marketing tool because they will tell their friends and fellow-extension lovers about your services!

Network, Network, Network At the end of the day, nothing beats direct communication with past and current clients. Whether you recommend extensions during consultations or work your way through your contact list, just start reaching out to people.

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GETTING REAL ABOUT RETAIL A candid conversation about maximizing take-home sales in the salon, and how it can be a lot easier than you may think. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

With the ever-changing retail landscape, some salons may find it challenging to keep up. But with the rise of Amazon and the rumoured 2021 arrival of Ulta Beauty in Canada, retail has never been more top of mind. “Hairstylists don’t want to seem pushy. Nobody should be feeling like

they’re selling,” advises Michael Levine, owner of Space and Caramel Salons in British Columbia. “But there’s a psychological shift that needs to happen when you realize why retail is so crucial to your relationship with your clients, and hopefully it begins to resonate.”

Making the Switch

Rather than an afterthought, more hairstylists need to make retail a focus throughout the client’s appointment. What does that mean, exactly? Levine says it’s all about building the relationship with the client and having the discipline and confidence to discuss products at

An Eventful Experience “Before Christmas, we invited 120 clients into the salon. My team and I put together a collection with nine models and styled the hair [to showcase] products to clients, explained how to use the products and gave them an opportunity to sample products. We host events at least twice a year—bridal events or new product events—and invite our clients to be part of them, because it’s about building a relationship with your clients so you’re identifying what their needs are—not just their wants—and customizing their experience.” — William Tissert, William Tissert Salon & Spa, Pickering, Ont.

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“We sell tickets and invite people to come into the salon and teach them how to blow-dry or curl their hair. A percentage of the ticket price goes back into their retail [purchase] so we can secure a sale at the end of the event.” — Amber Fairlie, The Manor Salon, Toronto

“We had Jami Symons come in from Oribe and hosted a signature cut class. Whenever we host a class, it’s important to me that the education [experience] actually fits the brand. I wanted the staff to feel pampered; to feel like a client and experience the feeling of using the products. We’re in the salon environment every day, so we need to make it different and shake it up and keep everybody interested.” — Lara Leckie, Studio So Lara, Guelph, Ont.

PHOTO: SPACE SALON

FIND OUT HOW SOME SALONS HAVE STEPPED UP THEIR RETAIL GAME BY HOSTING IN-SALON EVENTS.


“WHETHER IT’S A ONE-HOUR OR FOUR-HOUR APPOINTMENT, THERE ARE SO MANY WINDOWS OF OPPORTUNITY. AND I STILL THINK PEOPLE SEE THE VALUE IN WALKING OUT WITH SOMETHING TANGIBLE.” –MICHAEL LEVINE, OWNER OF SPACE AND CARAMEL SALONS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA

specific times throughout the service. “It’s about planting seeds,” he says. “For example, rather than the hairstylist walking over to the backbar, they can bring the product to the client and keep it in front of them while explaining what’s great about it. If you leave a couple of products in front of the client, they might reach out and read the labels, or they will be staring at them. That’s when you’re really doing your job; it’s not about selling but communicating.” In other words? If it’s out of sight, it’s out of mind! Levine, who also owns the Vancouver Hairdressing Academy, says he relates to some of the struggles that young hairstylists face with retail since he experienced those same challenges. “It’s possible to be a successful hairdresser and not sell products; I was for a long time. But it’s very difficult to be a stylist who sells a ton of products, who is also not getting a lot of service dollars. High retail always equates to high service.”

Don’t Discount the Benefits

From loyalty cards to points systems to promotional offers, retail strategies can be a huge help when marketing take-home product to clients. However, Derrick Rutherford, creative director of Valentini’s Hair Design & Esthetics in Guelph, Ont., advises against the idea of over-discounting your product.“That’s your bread and butter,” he says. “We don’t give anything away. We may do a gift with purchase or offer 10 per cent off if clients buy three or more products.” Though discount strategies may work for some salons, Rutherford, who is also a business coach and works with salons across Canada, says that the results are often short-lived. A more long-term and successful strategy? Listening to your client’s needs. “Retail is a barometer of how you’re servicing your client,” adds Levine. “The client who buys from you is a client who trusts you.”

Cheat Sheet: Retail Edition PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE “Find out what ingredients make hair bigger and which ones make hair smaller. Read your bottles and have the knowledge. It’s something every hairstylist should know.” — Michael Levine CONSULTATIONS “I personally like to ask my questions systematically. Everyone is asked the same questions for consistency. Products are so prescriptive now, and it’s important to find out the problems so you can offer the solutions. What do they want their hair to do for them, and what do they want the product to do for them?” — Derrick Rutherford TEACHABLE MOMENTS “At the end of the service, hairstylists will often hear clients say, ‘I’ll never be able to make it look like this.’ Teach clients how to use a curling iron. For example, show them how to curl and hand them the iron so they can try one. If you go into it with the sole intention of helping clients be able to style their hair better, then all of the sales are kind of organic. It all just happens naturally.” — Michael Levine SETTING UP SHOP “You have to look like you’re in the business of selling product. We set up our salons like retail environments. Clients who are sitting in the waiting area are surrounded by products. We run some product videos on a loop in our processing area. You have to set your products up like a store, where people are encouraged to pick things up, look at them and read about them without asking anybody.” — Michael Levine

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 41


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An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 43


Collections — 2020 NAHA CANADIAN WINNERS

Canada was proudly represented at the 2020 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA)—taking home a total of four awards!

2020 NAHA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa MAKEUP Kylie O'Toole PHOTOS Andrew O'Toole

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Collections — 2020 NAHA CANADIAN WINNERS


2020 NAHA MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor WARDROBE Julie Vriesinga PHOTOS Paula Tizzard

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 47


Collections — 2020 NAHA CANADIAN WINNERS

2020 NAHA AVANT GARDE Rodrigo Araneda, OLAB Coiffeurs, Montreal PHOTO Leda St-Jacques

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Collections — 2020 NAHA CANADIAN WINNERS

2020 NAHA TEXTURE Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto MAKEUP Ekaterina Ulyanoff & Rachelle Guignard WARDROBE Melissa Stetski & Norm Wright PHOTO Natasha Gerschon salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 49


Collections — FLYING COLOURS

This British collection shows off the beautiful combination of vibrant colour and breathtaking shine.

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HAIR Suzie Clelland, Marc Antoni, U.K. MAKEUP Katie Moore WARDROBE Ellen Spiller PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 51


Collections — ROSY HUES

This stunningly serene Canadian collection showcases the weightlessness of texture while playfully fusing warm pastels with cooler tones. 52 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

2020 CONTESSA AWARDS FINALIST, TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni & Perri, Barrie, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor WARDROBE Adrian Arnieri PHOTOS Paula Tizzard


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Collections — DESIRE

A wide range of chic styles and textures are showcased in this winning British Hairdressing Awards collection.

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HAIR Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Ireland MAKEUP Siobhon Luckie WARDROBE Clare Frith PHOTOS Jack Eames

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Collections — COOL DOWN

Delicate braids and cooler hues are spotlighted in this creative Canadian collection.

2020 CONTESSA AWARDS FINALIST, BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST AND MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Soyeon Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver MAKEUP Sewhang Kim PHOTOS Dominic Chan

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Jamie Dorge Born and raised in Winnipeg, Jamie Dorge always wanted to be part of the beauty industry. Once her sister started competing in hair shows, it ignited a spark that inspired Dorge to enroll into beauty school. For the past 12 years, she’s been perfecting all those hair skills, but decided to let them go for this particular collection, and instead embrace the beautiful imperfections of hairstyling. “I think that we try so hard every day to be so perfect behind the chair,” she says. “So when I did this collection, I wanted to do something that spoke to me more in the moment.” Spot of Inspiration When it comes to colour placement, technique and precision are everything. But for these looks, Dorge wanted to let her creative side run free and try

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something completely different. After attending a seminar led by multiple Contessa award-winner Tony Ricci, who explained that he often goes to craft stores to think of new ideas, Dorge “channeled her inner Ricci” when she decided to use a round lid to put polka dots on one of her looks. “I created those spots with a stamping technique,” she says. “It was literally a lid from something, but sometimes little things like that catch your eye and inspire you to do things differently.” Turn Up the Volume Dorge knew from the start that she wanted one of her looks to be a rich denim blue, but her playful textured bob was originally sharp and straight. When she noticed that something about the look didn’t sit right with her, she

decided to experiment with the hair. “I realized that the texture looked great because it gave dimension to the denim,” she says. “So then I really just started to play with the texture of the hair using a little bit of product and really piecing out the bang. I loved the fact that it went from structured to dishevelled.” While she usually would have been stressed or overwhelmed on a shoot day, Dorge says she allowed herself to be in the moment and be nothing but herself, especially with the support of her team. “The day of the shoot was fantastic,” she recalls. “I felt so free and it was wonderful to have people around to really support my artistic vision, win or lose. I'm super proud of myself this year.” This win-or-lose mentality already has Dorge excited for next year’s collection, as she wants to maintain her momentum. “I'm going to be using what I've learned from this and apply it to my next collection. I feel like a new me.”

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: REYN VONDYCK

Contessa Gallery — CONTESSA 31 FINALIST, SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST

“We’re making people feel good about themselves, which is a really rewarding career.”


Profile — ADIR ABERGEL

What Dreams are Made of From celebrity hairstyling to his influential status on social media, Adir Abergel has been making waves in Hollywood with his unique approach to styling.

BY LUCY MAZZUCCO

PHOTOS: BETH KLEIN PR

How did you get your start in hairstyling? I started doing hair at 15 years old, assisting for [L.A.-based celebrity hairstylist] Arthur Johns. After seven years, I decided to go off on my own and entered the world of freelancing and music videos. Now, after having been in the industry for almost 30 years, I have developed 20 year-long relationships with some of my clients, styling celebrities like Jennifer Garner, Anne Hathaway and Charlize Theron. The way I approach hair is different. I look at the individual and try to help them find their voice and tone and who they are as a person. I feel hair is one of the greatest accessories and it should be celebrated! So why not explore different parts of that both in colour and haircuts? What I do on one celebrity, I won’t do on another. Everyone has their own feeling and voice, and I think that’s incredibly important. I love our community because we are soldiers of creating confidence and change, and not letting people stay stagnant. What tips do you have for working with celebrities on their red carpet hairstyles? Where do you source your inspiration? For me, it’s about creating an entire image. I always ask the following questions: What are you wearing? What is the actual event? What does the carpet look like—is it big or small? What are you promoting? I think about all those different things and then start pulling images based on what they’re going to wear. I also ask them what [eras] they

like and the trends that are speaking to them. I then start building around that. I love red carpet events because they allow you to tell a story that is told around a visual, which is such an incredible and beautiful art form. For me, hair is just a different medium. What advice do you have for hairstylists who are looking to grow? Mentorship is an incredible and impactful thing for us as artists. It’s important to team up with the right person and go out and assist. Read up on hair history—you need to know your references! We can learn a lot from people before our time to help us execute different ideas and make them more modern. Say yes to every job. You need to do a lot of “bad” hair before you do great hair. Don’t be afraid to try different things and play with different textures. Follow the people you love on Instagram. We have a great platform of people who can inspire you while giving tips and tricks. Don’t ever get comfortable thinking you know everything. Education is one of the most

INTERESTED IN LEARNING ADIR ABERGEL’S TIPS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA? VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA FOR MORE INFO!

incredible parts of life and I think that you’ve never reached your full potential. People tell me I don’t need to because I’m “at the top of my game,” but I think that’s why I’m at the top of my game—I’ve never stayed complacent and I always want to continue learning. You’re the creative director for Virtue, a brand that’s been getting lots of buzz. Tell us about why you decided to work with them. Virtue is unique because it uses a technology called Alpha Keratin 60Ku, which was founded by a scientist named Dr. Luke Bernett, who found a way to extract the entire proteomic protein from human hair. I have helped with the line’s product development as the brand’s creative director and am able to make a difference by helping to create transformations with a virtuous and honest line of products that deal with problems by adding a solution. salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 59


Interiors — MOROCCANOIL ACADEMY

Evolution of Beauty With a brand-new academy dedicated to the professional hairstylist, Moroccanoil has created a space that embodies and inspires creativity.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

60 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

Changing Spaces The academy features a 4,000-squarefoot space for classes that can be divided in half, and features a customizable layout with 30 individual stations and custom-made tripod stands that lock into the floor. “Education changes so you need to be able to change it up,” says Ham. “I love the openness of the space and how it can be transformed into a multifunctional space that works as a classroom, studio, workshop or hair salon.” The versatile design goes hand-inhand with Moroccanoil’s approach to education. From classes for cutting

and styling to integrated business programs and workshops, the academy provides salon owners, managers and hairstylists with comprehensive learning opportunities. Digital by Design Keeping up with the evolving world of education was top of mind during the design process. The academy is completely wireless and features projectors for each wall, microphones and speakers in the ceiling, along with a 360-degree camera on stage. “The space has really been optimized to provide easily accessible education,

PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL

With its new, state-of-the-art academy in midtown New York, Moroccanoil has created a space that checks all the boxes for today’s professional hairstylist. From customized workstations to a digitally sound layout, the academy speaks to hairstylists of all skill sets. “We really want to offer education to all stylists—no matter where they’re from, who they are, whether or not they are part of a Moroccanoil salon. The idea is that any salon can come to this academy space, educate and foster their careers, and take education that’s in line with their interests, too,” says Robert Ham, vice president of global education.


DETAILS Opened in January 2020 SPACE 8,500 square feet STATIONS 30 CLASSROOMS 2 INSTAGRAM @moroccanoilpro

no matter how you want to learn; whether it’s in person or digitally,” says Ham. The academy also includes a fully equipped content studio for photo and video shoots. “We can create content and put it out immediately, since more stylists are turning toward social and digital platforms for education.” All in the Details It’s no surprise that the academy features luxurious accents that have become a signature for the brand—from brass detailing to tiled walls to lots of natural light.

“It’s designed to be an academy bar. Our co-founder, Ofer, wanted people to be able to sit having coffee or their lunch and see the beautiful skyline, so he installed marble bar tops and chairs,” says Ham. “We want people to walk in and have their first impression be that they’re wowed by the beauty. That’s their first impression. But most importantly, it’s an all-around fun and creative space.” The academy’s entrance also features alcoves that include temporary installations spotlighting their hero product: the Moroccanoil Treatment. Since the brand’s offices are located adjacent to the academy, it keeps their

WEBSITE moroccanoilprofessionals.com

education team close to the action. “We want to foster collaboration. We have an open concept environment, so everybody is working together.” And the same can be said of the academy. “It’s a space to be creative and get inspiration. I want people to leave with techniques they can implement in the salon,” Ham adds. “Our brand was built and founded on the commitment from the hairdresser. Now, we just want to give back to them.” salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 61


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Events —

tk

PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL, SALON STAFF

Inside the Grand Opening of Moroccanoil’s New Academy Moroccanoil has unveiled their brand new, 8,500-square-foot academy in New York. For the grand opening event, attendees included co-founder Carmen Tal, VP of global education Robert Ham, global creative director Antonio Corral Calero, artistic director Kevin Hughes, and global ambassador Peter Beckett. Read more about the new academy on pages 60 and 61. When & Where: January 16, New York City

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 63


Events —

— Larisa Love participated in a meet-and-greet with fellow hairstylists and fans.

Travelling to Long Beach, California for the 2020 International Salon + Spa Expo (ISSE), the Salon team attended the annual show for three days of presentations and classes led by some of the industry’s leading experts and brands. Among the Canadian attendees were Matty Conrad, Josie Vilay, Alain Audet of ABA Canada and NAHA winners Silas Tsang, Julie Vriesinga and Rodrigo Araneda. When & Where: January 25-27, Long Beach, Calif.

| Sam Villa, global artistic ambassador for Redken, presented a range of styling and finishing techniques on stage.

64 salonmagazine.ca March 2020

PHOTOS: PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION, GORDON GREENWOOD, SALON STAFF

Inspiring Education at ISSE 2020!

We caught up with celebrity hairstylist Adir Abergel before he took the stage at the Virtue booth.


Scoop —

In Memoriam

Brian Light Brian Light, co-founder and former president of Salon, passed away peacefully in his home on January 19. He co-founded Salon in 1993 with business partner Greg Robins, and worked as the magazine’s president until 2009. After being diagnosed with Primary Progressive Multiple Sclerosis, Brian remained as chairman until his retirement in 2016. He was an extraordinary man, a great leader and a dear friend of the Salon team. “Brian was a kind, wonderful and caring man. He had the perfect blend of moral compass and business acumen. I learned everything about the business of publishing from him,” says Laura Dunphy, publisher of Salon. “He will be greatly missed.”

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Bosley Professional Strength has announced some major shifts in leadership for 2020, appointing beauty business executive Ian Murphy as its new president. Murphy is well known in the beauty industry for his decades of experience in marketing, sales and business development experience for brands such as Redken and Bio Ionic.

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#NoFilter —

Influencer Spotlight FIND OUT HOW THESE HAIRSTYLISTS HAVE USED THEIR SOCIAL MEDIA PROWESS TO CONNECT WITH CLIENTS AND TAKE THEIR BUSINESS AND CAREERS TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

Ira Capistrano Winnipeg @inc.capistrano (Followers: 52K+) Claim to Fame Asian hair specialist Why did you decide to specialize in Asian hair and how has that set you apart in the industry?

Eliza Trendiak

Caroline Gauthier Québec, Que. @carolabelleetlatete (Followers: 7.3K+) Claim to Fame Blonde and updo specialist and owner of La Belle et la Tete How did you get your start on social media?

You seem to take a more personal approach to Instagram. Why is that and how has that helped you with your business?

I try to not take myself too seriously on Instagram. I try not to think of myself as this big influencer because of the number of followers I have. I just have fun with it. A lot of people on social media nowadays, especially the younger generation, look up to people like me so my goal is always to stay true to who I am and try to educate others in the industry. I love to share different colour formulas that work for me or even answer questions through my [direct messages]. We never had anything like this when I first started in hair, so to be able to learn from other hairstylists through Instagram is amazing.

66 salonmagazine.ca / March 2020

I started my Instagram maybe six years ago. Before that, I mainly used Facebook but my clients kept bringing up Instagram and how I needed to show off my work. In the beginning I thought, “Oh my God, another thing to work on,” but I realized very fast that it was essential in my career. In the beginning, I would send quick hellos to different influencers and say, “Hey, if you need a new hairstylist, we can work together and you can post a story or photo on your Instagram.” This helped me grow my followers. I still do that, along with giveaways and partnerships with different companies.

Vancouver @elizatrendiakhair (Followers: 21.1K+) Claim to Fame Balayage specialist and owner of Artel Salon How do you handle a busy salon and still manage to maximize your social media presence?

One of the main reasons why I'm okay with spending time posting on Instagram is because it translates to tangible humans in my business. This is such a visual industry, so our use of social media has absolutely resulted in clients in my chair. My presence and the salon’s presence on Instagram have also been factors that have attracted stylists to want to come in and work for us because they see that we put a lot of effort into our social media and our marketing, and they also want to grow their own online social media presence as stylists.

PHOTOS: IRA CAPISTRANO, CAROLINE GAUTHIER, ELIZA TRENDIAK

I’m Filipino and I noticed in Winnipeg that there are not a lot of stylists who do Asian hair. Even growing up, I found it difficult to find a hairstylist With that in mind, I learned more about ethnic hair and developed colouring skills, like how to lift hair properly or how to make hair ashier without causing breakage. There was a lot of trial and error in the beginning with colour corrections, but over time it got easier, thanks to education and lots of practice.



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