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March 2021
30 F E AT U R E
A Cut Above
Find out how the pandemic is reshaping men’s grooming and what the future holds for the already niche and unpredictable market.
33 F E AT U R E
Your Ultimate Guide to Haircutting
52 T H O M RO B I N S , THOM, VA N C O U V E R
Learn expert tips and tricks for cutting all lengths, textures and types that will take your craft to the next level.
37 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
“More guys are experimenting because they’ve gone months without a haircut and realize they like their longer length.”
Sandra Perovic; Terri Kay and Andrea Giles; Marcello Moccia and Karen Perry; Jason Massa; Aran Beattie; Fabrizio Perciballi; Isaac Martin; Thom Robins; Kate Drury
56 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Kelly Héroux
Find out why this Quebecbased finalist for Emerging Hairstylist doesn’t get intimidated by fierce competition, and learn about the inspiration behind her Contessa collection.
—THOM ROBINS, OWNER OF THOM, VANCOUVER ON THE COVER: HAIR: SANDRA PEROVIC, SIGMA BARBER STUDIO, VANCOUVER PHOTO: JAMIE MANN
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 11
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Editor’s Letter
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Publisher’s Note
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BUSINESS
Tilting the Scales
L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Don’t miss out on even more amazing content! Head over to our website for more articles, celebrity news, interviews, hair inspiration and so much more!
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38 SA NDR A P E ROV I C , S I G M A BA R BER STU DIO, VA N C O U V E R
Haven’t switched over to gender-neutral pricing yet? Find out why some salon owners are embracing the movement and are not looking back.
58 P RO F I L E
W H AT ’ S N E W
Hairlines
Check out some exciting hair and nail launches just in time for the new season! From colour to styling and everything in between, we have all the details on the products you’ll swoon over this spring!
Thinking Outside The Box
This Toronto men’s hairstylist and salon owner doesn’t play by the rules. Learn how Peter Gosling has managed to stay successful—even through the COVID-19 pandemic— by prioritizing education and being in tune with the industry’s needs.
60 INTER IORS
Man Cave
Take a look inside Augustin Homme, a Montreal-based salon that offers fine men’s grooming in style, and learn how they’ve had to adapt during the pandemic.
62 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
Events + Scoop
66 SA LON SOCI A L
Can’t Get Enough
42 I S A AC M A R T I N , B L AC K S T Y L E P E L U Q U E RO S , S PA I N
12 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
See which standout looks from Canadian hairstylists are catching our eye on social media!
BU I L D A R E WA R DI NG CA R E E R GE T T H E L AT E S T I N DU S T RY N E WS F I N D T H E T E C H N ICA L A DV IC E YOU C R AV E
salonmagazine.ca
Staying Sharp As we all continue to persevere through the pandemic, there’s no time like the present to refine your skill set. Depending on where you are in the country (or the world), most of us can agree that this past year has taught us to take time to pause, reflect and learn. With so much education being offered online, now is the time to master that skill you’ve always been wanting to. Whether it’s precision cutting, working with different hair textures or perfecting a new colour technique, finding the motivation (and time) to take on a challenge has never been easier. And even if you think you know everything there is to know about your craft, think again! Even the most elite beauty pros will tell you that learning never stops. A prime example of this mantra is Peter Gosling, whom we chatted with on page 58. Not only is he a classically trained hairstylist, he’s also the owner of Glassbox, a Toronto-based men’s salon/barbershop and academy, and is offering education in a fresh, new way. With this being our Men’s and Haircutting issue, I also caught up with hairstylists and barbers on page 30 to find out what’s new in the world of men’s hairstyling and grooming, and learn why expanding your skills has never been more important. On page 33, we also have “Your Ultimate Guide to Haircutting,” where we share tips on creating the ideal cut, regardless of who is in your chair. Whether you’re an experienced pro or brandnew to the industry, remember that investing in education ultimately means investing in yourself. And there’s no better reward than that!
SalonMag Salon_Magazine salonmagazine SalonMagazine
14 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief
PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO
S E E S T U N N I NG C OL L E C T ION S
Editor’s Letter —
DISCOVER MORE– RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
ONE OF 100 REASONS TO #GOGOLDWELL
WE REINVENTED HAIR COLOR, SO YOU CAN REINVENT HAIR COLORING.
Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 30, ISSUE 2 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca
Publisher’s Note —
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Barbara Burrows
GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca INTERN Lauren Farrugia intern@salonmagazine.ca
Spring = New Beginnings
PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca
As this issue of Salon arrives at your doorstep, spring will be just around the corner. I don’t think there’s ever been a time when we’ve all welcomed spring as much as now. It’s a season that’s considered to be the time of renewal, rebirth and reawakening, which we all desperately need right now. Last year was a time of unprecedented difficulties for businesses—especially small businesses—and the stressors that come with being shut down for up to five months in some regions has been extremely difficult for so many people. The big question is: What will this year hold? While I don’t have a crystal ball, I think we all agree that this is going to be a year of change. Or, as some people say: A “reset.” Regardless of your expectation of what’s to come, getting prepared to reopen while also revisiting your business plan would be prudent. On the bright side, news reports tell us there is a surplus of disposable money in many Canadian households. As history dictates when people go through a tough financial period, they love to spend. This has great potential to have a positive impact on salons. After all, this industry brings so much to people’s lives for many different reasons. Salon services are accessible to everyone, from a toddler needing their first haircut to an adult looking for a full-colour makeover. The same is true of price ranges—there’s an option for everyone, regardless of whether the goal is a value or luxe cut. With that said, the pandemic has changed so much and I would encourage you to review your service menu and prices. As things open up again, make sure to follow your playbook. Business and clientele can be fragile these days, so ensuring that clients feel welcomed is critical. Show them some love! Reach out regularly, whether it’s by email or on Instagram, to keep them updated on your latest offerings. (p.s. Email is more personal than Instagram). While there’s still a long road ahead, make sure to continue with health/safety and PPE protocols, demonstrating to your clients that your salon is a clean and safe environment. I also suggest you meet with your team to brainstorm ideas regarding how to encourage new and existing clients to visit your salon. The days of opening your doors and expecting them to pour in are gone, so make a plan and be willing to try new things. Don’t be afraid to tap into your sales consultants and manufacturers, as well. Use every resource available to you, and get creative. Don’t feel alone and remember, the glass is half full!
CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon
16 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131
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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Laura Dunphy Publisher
OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca
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This magazine is recyclable.
Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.
The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.
SHOW OFF YOUR CRAFT WITH THE BEST STYLISTS IN THE WORLD
ENTER THE AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE
Show us your interpretation of the American Crew man with a visionary and expressive style for your chance to win the experience of a lifetime.
GLOBAL WINNERS WILL RECEIVE $5,000 USD AND AN ALL-EXPENSES PAID TRIP TO BARCELONA, SPAIN
SUBMIT YOUR ENTRY STARTING MARCH 01, 2021 allstarchallenge.americancrew.com
where they will partake in an editorial photo shoot with renowned photographer and American Crew founder, David Raccuglia.
For updates and your chance to be a part of this year’s competition visit allstarchallenge.americancrew.com or follow American Crew
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Open to licensed barbers and/or cosmetologists who are 18 years of age or older at time of entry. Contest begins at 12:01 AM March 1, 2021 and ends at 11:59 p.m. on May 15, 2021. Void where prohibited. Subject to full official rules found at allstarchallenge.americancrew.com. © 2021 American Crew © 2021 Roux Laboratories, Inc. All Rights Reserved. CREWD-21-0043
salonmagazine.ca #HairInspo
Get the dream job you’ve always wanted! Check out our job board for the latest opportunities across the country, or to post a free listing.
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Virtual Learning Stay up-to-date with our free education listings that will help you refine your skills and elevate your craft.
18 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Show and Tell Learn the tips and techniques to recreate the latest trends with our hairstyling and colour how-tos.
PHOTOS: HAIR: ADAM CIACCIA, AXIS HAIRDRESSING, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: DANIELLE BUTCHER, WARDROBE STYLING: JOSE MCMANUS, PHOTO: DAVID MANNAH; HAIR: NESTOR SANCHEZ, HOB ACADEMY, U.K., COLOUR: CHRIS MAY & WARREN BOODAGHIAN, PHOTO: JAKE UNGE
Job Search
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So much creativity, so little time! We have a full archive of collection photos waiting for you. Get ready to be inspired by these unbelievable styles!
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PHOTO: HAIR: ALEX AZURMENDI, CENTRO BETA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: WILDVANDIJK, WARDROBE STYLING: VISORI FASHIONART, PHOTO: DAVID ARNAL
KICK OFF THE SEASON WITH EXCITING NEW CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING LAUNCHES! PLUS, SOME HAIR AND NAIL INSPIRATION THAT’S SURE TO ADD A “SPRING” TO YOUR STEP. Inspired by the mantra “repair, revamp, recycle,” the Tear Me To Pieces collection by Spain-based hairstylist Alex Azurmendi, showcases bold yet wearable styles that inject classic looks with a fresh, modern twist. With an array of strong cuts and a focus on celebrating different textures, this edgy collection explores the beauty in new creations, and the idea of giving garments and objects new life. The powerful cuts and shapes displayed offer inspiration, creativity and a look at some of the infinite possibilities the world of hairdressing has to offer. To view more photos from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 19
➣ S H A D E S F O R DAYS
Hairlines — NEWS
Give clients the cool factor with Wella’s new Ilumina Color shades. Looking for a permanent hair colour that lightens, neutralizes and tones natural colour, while providing up to 100 per cent grey coverage? Wella Professionals has added four new shades—8/93 (Boho Blonde), 9/19 (Icy Beige), 9/59 (Raspberry Blush) and 10/81 (Arctic Blonde)—to their Illumina Color range. Offering up to three levels of lift, the four new cool shades add dimension to hair and can be used alone or mixed with other Illumina Color shades, including Opal-Essence, for a sheer, natural result.
➣ Offer male clients the deepcleansing experience they deserve with American Crew’s Detox Shampoo.
20 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
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By eliminating excess dirt and oil, the Detox Shampoo from American Crew’s new Hair Care Collection works on all hair types to exfoliate and refresh the scalp by removing product buildup, leaving hair soft and manageable. Enriched with vitamin B5 and natural ingredients, such as Manicouagan clay—a mineral-rich clay from the Manicouagan Lake in Northern Canada—it moisturizes and infuses the scalp with essential minerals while coconut shell beads gently massage to promote micro-circulation.
Shape Up Take control with KMS THERMASHAPE Straightening Conditioner and MOISTREPAIR Hydrating Oil. When unparalleled heat and humidity protection meet innovative straightening capabilities, the result is THERMASHAPE Straightening Conditioner. Working to gradually straighten heat-styled locks, it’s infused with Rhodiola and organic water mint, which are known for increasing resistance to stressors and high temperatures. The MOISTREPAIR Hydrating Oil is made with a blend of 99 per cent naturally derived and vegan ingredients, such as nourishing avocado oil and aloe vera. Not only do these ingredients work to seal and smooth hair, they provide hydration and humidity protection. Plus, the multi-tasking hair oil helps control flyaways and extend second-day styles. It can even be used to moisturize skin and beards!
PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): WELLA PROFESSIONALS, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, NIOXIN, JOICO, KMS, AMERICAN CREW
Fresh Start
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Hairlines — NEWS
Blend It Like Beckham Give your male clients more options to camouflage their white hair with Oligo Professionnel’s Calura Gloss Men. The demi-permanent liquid hair colour line is specifically formulated for white hair and blends up to 50 per cent with zero lift, while hydrating and conditioning the hair. Plus, the shades are just subtle enough to create the natural look that most men are searching for. The line also includes the Gloss Men Developer, a 20-volume lotion developer with a gel-like consistency for easy application. Also included in the line is Calura Men Co-Wash, a temporary hair colour cleanser that’s available in three levels (Level 3—Dark Brown, Level 5—Light Brown and Level 7—Medium Blonde), and provides gradual white hair blending up to 50 per cent. These pigmented conditioners cleanse hair while providing hydration, frizz-control and helping to extend the look of previously coloured hair.
➣ REST UP
Get your beauty sleep with Joico’s Defy Damage Sleepover Overnight Nourishing Treatment. For clients in need of a hair rescue, this easy leave-in treatment can be dubbed the “slumber party for hair” since it works to refresh locks while you sleep. Effective on both damp and dry hair, it nourishes and strengthens bonds overnight, helping hair appear shiner, softer and smoother while also reducing the appearance of split ends.
Relieve It Or Not Get thicker, fuller locks without irritation with Nioxin’s Scalp Relief. Have your clients been complaining about itchy or dry scalps during the winter months, or have they experienced COVID-19 stress-related hair loss? Nioxin’s new Scalp Relief line is designed for sensitive, dry and itchy scalps, and is specifically formulated for thinning and fine hair to protect its natural barrier while making hair thicker and fuller. The three-step treatment consists of the gentle Scalp Comfort Cleanser, nourishing Scalp Comfort Conditioner and Scalp Comfort Serum—a leave-on treatment that relieves scalp sensitivity and itchiness while increasing hair’s thickness. salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 21
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Colour Forecast
Hairlines — NEWS
OUT W ITH THE OLD…
Get thickerlooking locks with Alterna’s relaunched Caviar AntiAging Clinical Densifying range. Infused with amla Indian gooseberry, a healing herb that improves hair thickness, strength and softness, Alterna’s Caviar Anti-Aging line is back and better than ever! The new-and-improved formula will help your clients regain their self-confidence with fuller and stronger hair! The brand has also added Foam Conditioner, a gentle, self-foaming formula that nourishes thinning hair, creating healthy body and movement.
Get inspired by Goldwell’s 2021 Color of the Year! Looking to enter the spring season on a colourful note? Goldwell has revealed its Color of the Year for 2021: Lilac Aura! Selected from the brand’s 2021 hair colour and style trend collection: Essentialism, Lilac Aura is a deep shade of lilac that is uplifting, atmospheric, serene and hopeful. The shade was created using Goldwell’s Elumen Play— a combination of Pastel Lavender, Clear, Black and Metallic Berry, with a hint of Violet. In a year where neutral and natural tones are expected to be at the fashion forefront, Lilac Aura is sure to be a welcomed pop of colour. The shade also joins orange and green tones in Goldwell’s ’70s-inspired collection: Nostalgic Brights.
➣ NORTH BOU ND
The Texas-based men’s grooming line, 18.21 Man Made, has officially entered the North! The brand is best known for offering top-shelf grooming products and lifestyle support for the aspiring gentleman, with products such as their 3-in-1 Man Made washes that are packaged to look like liquor bottles! Founded by three men who are well-versed in the professional beauty space, they recently added elevated bar soaps to their repertoire. Available via Alliance Beauty and Tru Beauty, expect to start seeing more of their signature products hitting the shelves of Canadian barbershops and salons later this year.
Bye, Bye Dry Say so long to hard-water buildup with Purify & Revive from Pravana. If your clients aren’t getting the hair results they’re looking for, hard water might be to blame. While it may be invisible to the naked eye, hard water can have damaging effects on hair, resulting in dull and dry strands. Pravana’s new Purify & Revive Prime is a demineralizing spray that removes hard water buildup in as little as three minutes, while Cleanse is a mineral-diminishing shampoo infused with plant-based lactic acid. By binding to hard water metals and converting them into conditioning agents, hair looks and feels weightless and moisturized. Even better: Colour and chemical service results are vastly improved. Problem, dissolved! 22 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): ALTERNA, GOLDWELL, 18.21 MAN MADE, PRAVANA
18.21 Man Made brings its unique combination of relaxed ruggedness and upscale luxury to Canada.
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Model Behaviour As the brand’s first-ever global ambassador, Canadian style icon and model Winnie Harlow is starring in their 2021 campaign, which celebrates the power of self-expression through hair. With a focus on inspiring consumers to embrace their beauty and explore their personal style, Harlow is the perfect embodiment for the theme, since she’s best known as a barrier-breaking model and activist. “Expressing myself through hair is a fun experience that represents different stages in my life,” says Harlow. “I get to create new personas, personalities and characters with every look.” In addition to the partnership with Harlow, John Paul Mitchell Systems is welcoming César DeLeön Ramirêz (aka. @cesar4styles on Instagram and Harlow’s hairstylist), as brand ambassador. The new campaign features a series of looks DeLeön Ramirêz created specifically for Harlow.
R E C L A I M YO U R S H I N E
Indulge hair with Kérastase’s new Blond Absolu Concentré [H.A] Ultra-Violet.
Hairlines — NEWS
John Paul Mitchell Systems introduces Winnie Harlow as its new global ambassador.
Kérastase has recently introduced its latest addition to complete their beloved Blond Absolu line: Concentré [H.A] Ultra-Violet. A neutralizing, anti-brass care solution, it’s designed for lightened and highlighted cool-blonde hair. With its fresh scent and skincaregrade healing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and edelweiss oil, your blonde clients’ hair will feel, look and smell its best!
GET FOUND
Learn how SalonEverywhere is helping you (and your business) get noticed online. Are you looking to grow your clientele and expand your online presence? SalonEverywhere is a brand-new platform that provides beauty professionals with a creative, businessbuilding hub to showcase their skills. The online platform offers free Pro profiles that include a portfolio to feature your work and help reach new clients in your area. Consider it your online resume to display your strengths, credentials, awards and relationships with businesses and brands. Think: LinkedIn but designed specifically for the professional beauty community! “As a business model, LinkedIn makes sense, but it doesn’t have the visual aspect with images,” says Jason Goncalves, founder of SalonEverywhere. “The industry has adopted Instagram as a platform to tell their stories, but many stylists think it’s a lot of work. Plus, it’s not designed to be a location-based search, such as Yelp and Google My Business, which miss all the nuances about the service provider. We bring all the same power with locationbased discoverability and the result is a page that’s much more streamlined and compelling. When a prospective client wants to meet you or if you’re aspiring to be a platform artist or educator, you’re going to want to share your SalonEverywhere profile, so if a person is considering you versus somebody else, you can have the best representation.” Salons, barbershops, brands and distributors can also get in on the action by setting up a Business profile that features their services, products and members, which can be used to network with clients and other industry professionals. Not tech savvy? No problem! SalonEverywhere even offers an on-boarding and concierge service to help easily input your skills and experience into a profile… for free! So, what are you waiting for? Visit saloneverywhere.com for more information and to sign up now.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 23
R E PA I R & P RO T E C T
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Give hair an upgrade this season with Amika’s expanded Repair lineup. Powered by vegan proteins, plant butters and the brand’s proprietary Bond Cure Technology, Amika’s Repair collection now features four new products, including The Kure Bond Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, The Kure Multi-Task Repair Treatment and The Closer Instant Repair Cream. Not only are these products formulated to repair the bonds broken by heat-styling and chemical treatments, but they are designed to help prevent further damage. From smoothing hair to reducing breakage and sealing split-ends, this line is a must-have for clients seeking stronger, healthier locks.
Create healthier-looking hair with Kenra Platinum’s Luxe Shine Oil. Help clients get a luxurious start to the season with Kenra Platinum’s Luxe Shine Oil. It's enriched with precious gold for opulent slip and vitamin E for extra conditioning and thermal protection up to 450°F. Plus, the oil seals in moisture and penetrates strands to protect the cuticle, transforming hair for improved shine and manageability.
24 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
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Sleek and Smooth
C O L O U R M E E XC I T E D
Find out how Color Space can help you save time, money and the environment. Toronto-based industry veterans Ray Civello and Lupe Voss have collaborated on Color Space, an innovative new colour line. With cutting-edge technology, ingredients and formulas, the line includes fully calibrated colour products that are backed by science—for example, how light interacts with colour—to help salons and stylists rethink how they should approach colour services to save time and money. “This product is really unique on so many levels,” says Civello, CEO and co-founder. “Because we’re taking a scientific approach, we’re telling a different story than anyone else is telling.” One of the key benefits of Color Space is its micro-dye and its size, which according to Civello, is smaller than anything else that’s currently on the market. “Because of its size, it penetrates the cuticle much easier and doesn’t dislodge from the cuticle, which creates longer hair colour,” he says. “When coming up with a new product, you have to look at what’s out there in terms of quality. Quality equals performance, and you want predictable results. You have to be innovative and create something different and that’s exactly what we set out to do with Color Space.” The line features a range of high-performance yet costefficient permanent, ammonia and ammonia-free hair colour, lighteners, developers and more. Not only will these products help salons thrive—with immersive education led by Lupe Voss—your clients will love their results. Added bonus: Color Space utilizes 120mL bottle sizes to minimize waste.
PHOTO: AMIKA, COLOR SPACE, KENRA, INSTAGRAM, CND, ORLY, OPI, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, GELISH
Hairlines — NEWS
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MINT CONDITION
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Hairlines — NAILS
CND Say hello to spring with Change Sparker, a light stone-grey shade from The Colors of You collection.
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
ORLY Travel back to the ’70s with Happy Camper from the Day Trippin’ collection.
Here Comes the Bloom OPI Get runway ready nails with Destined to be a Legend, a grey-blue hue from the Hollywood collection.
Artistic Nail Design Bitter Truth, a rich green crème from the Sugar Free collection, has just the right amount of sweetness.
Gelish You won’t need to daydream with In The Clouds, a luscious light blue crème from the Out In The Open collection.
While many of us have fewer places to go these days, celebrities and influencers alike are still slaying the nail game and giving us all the inspiration we need to shine this spring. 1 Always thinking outside the box, Kylie Jenner’s printed mani is complete with checkered prints for a burst of colour. 2 Makeup guru James Charles’ cable knit nails by celebrity nail artist Chaun Legend are perfect for spring #SweaterWeather. 3 Singer Ella Mai’s nails are always a hit, and this season she’s rocking an eye-catching croc-print inspired manicure.
4 Kerry Washington’s earthy nails by celebrity artist Kim Truong are the best way to go nude this season and leave winter behind. 5 Lori Harvey may be dating 2020’s “Sexiest Man Alive,” but it’s her matte green nails that are making us swoon. 6 Actress Lana Condor sparkles and shines with this ultra-feminine metallic silver/blue mani.
➣ NAILED IT
Create the nails of your dreams with CND’s Plexigel system. Protecting your nails just got easier with CND Plexigel, an allin-one enhancement system that’s a versatile and convenient solution to all your nail dilemmas! The system includes a Bonder, Shaper, Builder and Protector Top Coat that provide nails with more than three weeks of strength. The system also helps repair chipped or broken nails, fills in splits, and plumps and shapes flat nails to create customized nail lengths. The sleek brush-in-a-bottle gel formula leaves nails perfectly clear for a superior shine or acts as the perfect foundation for your favourite polish.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 25
Hairlines — COLOUR
➣ GET INSPIRED BY THE 2021 PANTONE COLORS OF THE YEAR, AND FIND OUT HOW THEY’LL INFLUENCE HAIR TRENDS MORE THAN YOU THINK.
Power Couple Ultimate Gray 17-5104 Illuminating 13-0647
Pulp Riot SemiPermanent Color This direct-dye colour can be used on its own or mixed with clear for a softer colour result.
Schwarzkopf Professional ChromaID Intense Bonding Mask This semi-permanent colour mask helps create and maintain vibrant neon shades.
26 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Mellow Yellow Although yellow hair was trending just a few years ago, it’s now making a resurgence with Illuminating, which according to Pantone is “a bright and cheerful yellow, sparkling with vivacity.” While there are many who won’t necessarily opt for rocking this shade as an all-over colour (unless they’re Lady Gaga!), some experts say it’s a big indicator of the direction we’ll be seeing blondes move towards. “I don’t think yellow went anywhere, but it’s evolving and will continue to do so as it relates to hair,” says Chelsea Mann, an Edmontonbased salon owner, stylist and field education trainer for Wella Professionals. “The idea that all blondes should be ashy is out now; this shade lends itself well to seeing more warmth in hair.” “I think there may be a bit of a shift coming,” adds Thomas Melong, co-owner and master stylist at Vivid Hair Studio in Antigonish, N.S. and an international educator for Pulp Riot. “I’ve been warming up a lot of my blondes and I’m enjoying the brightness that you get with a warmer blonde.
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: HAIR: SAFY BURTON, SAFY B’S, U.K., MAKEUP: REBECCA BUTTERWORTH, PHOTOS: DAVID GREENSMITH
The annual release of Pantone’s Color of the Year is an event that sparks so much creativity—especially in hairstylists and colourists. And after the year we’ve all been through, it’s exactly the jolt of encouragement we need. With a lack of in-person gatherings, hair shows and Fashion Week—our go-tos for trends—have all gone virtual. With shows being few and far between, you can imagine the excitement our community felt when Pantone announced not one but two colours for 2021—Illuminating (13-0647) and Ultimate Gray (17-5104). “I was surprised to learn that there were two colours, but it makes a lot of sense for what salons and stylists—and everybody—is going through right now,” says Erinn De Luca, an Ontariobased colourist and education supervisor for Schwarzkopf Professional. “Over the last couple of years, we’ve been seeing a return to embracing warmer tones. When I saw the juxtaposition of the two Pantone colours, I thought it would make a lot of people happy. Some people weren’t ready to give up the grey, silver and ash tones, but I think these sunnier and happier colours really do make the hair feel healthier and look brighter.”
I think a lot clients are enjoying it, too, because it almost makes them feel like they got their hair done more, because it’s brighter and more noticeable.” To achieve warmer results, Celene Dupuis, owner of Revamp Hair Company in Saskatoon and an international artist for Redken, recommends looking to ’90s-inspired trends and techniques. “I suggest trying to create more colour-blocking with a bold money piece and chunky highlights reminiscent of the ’90s, but with a softer root area,” she says. “It keeps it modern looking with softer grow-out, which consumers need right now because of our current state.” For something even bolder, Mann says ’90s-inspired trends like the E-Girl or K-Pop looks are the way to go. “I think we have a lot of inspiration with social media. There’s the E-Girl with the panel in the front, which you can change quite often, and K-Pop. Panelling and colourblocking are great for this,” she says. “Now, it’s all about feeling more comfortable in your skin and having permission to wear the tones that you love.”
According to Pantone, the pairing of Illuminating and Ultimate Gray “encapsulates deeper feelings of thoughtfulness with the promise of something sunny and friendly.”
Redken Shades EQ This demi-permanent colour can be used to deposit, tone, neutralize and gloss silver tones.
Wella Professionals Blondor Toner This liquid toner is easy to use and helps take the guesswork out of creating grey and silver tones.
Greys for Days While cooler tones have been in high demand, Ultimate Gray, described by Pantone as “solid and dependable,” is sure to be a welcome shift that many have been waiting for. “I know a lot of stylists want grey hair to go away because it’s so much work to achieve and maintain,” says Melong. “There are a lot of options with grey. Ultimate Gray is more of a medium, neutral grey, which I find easier to achieve, as opposed to a light silver.” “Grey is a hard colour to achieve because you need to have such an even canvas,” adds De Luca. “That’s not always achievable, so I suggest going in with something like a slate grey or a charcoal or a deeper grey, and applying it on areas that are warmer, to drop the root. Create some dimension, let that process and rinse out, and polish with silver all over. Even though it’s multidimensional, it actually gives the illusion of everything being more even and with less banding.” With more clients embracing their grey hair due to pandemic-related lockdowns, Ultimate Gray couldn’t have come at a better time. “People are growing out their grey and learning to love it a little bit more,” says Mann. “It’s just a great neutral base to add anything to. We’re able to use that grey in balayage techniques, use grey toners, and have conversations with the client to maintain a colour like that.” Unlike Illuminating, Ultimate Gray may be deemed a more wearable shade that clients can sport as an all-over colour, with colour-blocking or even as a shadow root. salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 27
Finish fades and remove stubble with this sleek metallic copper shaver.
GET READY TO GIVE YOUR CLIENTS THE HAIRCUT THEY’VE BEEN WAITING FOR WITH THESE HIGHPERFORMANCE CUTTING TOOLS.
BaBylissPRO Skeleton Metal Trimmer Give your shorter cuts a cleaner finish with this all-metal cord/ cordless trimmer.
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Lithium-ion technology with more than one-hour runtime on a single charge
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Professional-grade rotary motor for powerful yet quiet performance
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Gold titanium, hyperallergenic foil for no irritation
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Lightweight (weighs less than five ounces!)
Wahl Disney/Pixar Soul Cord Cordless Senior
Kasho Design Master Series
Create seamless cuts on all types of hair with this limited-edition clipper.
Cut all lengths of hair with ease with these high-grade cutting shears.
Includes three premium cutting guides |
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Lithium-ion battery with two-hour runtime
Features a metal taper level and switch
Ergonomic design for ease of use
Features semiconvex blades for smooth yet razor-like performance
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Made with Japanese steel for long-lasting durability
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Available in straight, offset and left-handed
Knarled barbell for extra grip
Dual voltage
Powerful rotary motor for consistent power and ability to handle thicker hair
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Includes zero gap tool
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Adjustable 2191 blades with zerooverlap
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DLC titanium-coated T-blade
— | Lithium-ion battery with 80-minute runtime per charge
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Easy-to-use ratchet screw tensioner for expert precision
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: ANDIS, BABYLISSPRO COURTESY OF DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, WAHL, KASHO DESIGN COURTESY OF MODERN BEAUTY SUPPLIES
Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS
Keeping It Sharp
Andis Copper ProFoil
a r y!
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A nn READER’S CHOICE AWARDS
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Voting opens April 1 SalonMagazine.ca/RCA
A Cut Above Think your men’s hairstyling and barbering skills are at peak performance? Find out how the COVID-19 pandemic is changing the way clients feel about their hair—and why you should, too. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
There’s no doubt that the growth we’ve been seeing for the past five years in barbering has been unprecedented. Until, of course, the COVID-19 pandemic happened and everything changed. From salon shutdowns to restricted services in barbershops, it’s been a gut punch for men’s grooming. Lockdowns have forced many people to go months without a haircut, and not surprisingly, many guys have taken matters into their own (or their partner’s) hands with DIY haircuts from the comfort of their homes. What remains to be seen is when and how many of these clients will return to their local salon or barbershop for their usual haircut, shave or beard trim. There’s no question that the pandemic has caused financial strain on salon owners, stylists and barbers alike, and the same can be said of the impact it’s had on clients. And while it’s unrealistic to expect each and every client to return to their usual pre-pandemic hair maintenance-related routines, the concern over losing large numbers of clients has got some owners and stylists proactively 30 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
thinking about ways to pivot their business. “I think it’s important to evolve and learn more than just what you know,” says Eric Charpentier, a dualist specialist at Salon Blunt in Montreal. “We’re incredibly lucky to have a job where everything continually changes; adapting to new trends is a good way to keep pushing ourselves to learn, grow and try new things.” Going Against the Grain While Charpentier enjoys working with men’s hair (he was a finalist for Men’s Hairstylist at the 2020 Contessa Awards), it was important for him to learn how to work with both men’s and women’s hair, as well as how to colour and style (hence being a “dualist” specialist). “I love doing both—each practice is so different and I love to do multiple services when I’m behind the chair,” he says. “Full colour for men has been big, especially with platinum blonde and pink hair, and balayage on men, which I love.” While for many men, colour services may be limited to grey coverage, it’s important to know how to offer a range of services to build business with your client. “I realized
HAIR BY ERIC CHARPENTIER
PHOTO: SÉBASTIEN SAUVAGE, GETTYSTOCK
that men take more time for themselves; they’re regular with their appointments and they try to find the best hairstylist or barber to make themselves look their best,” adds Charpentier. For Maki Mak, a hairstylist and barber at Zinc Hair Studio in Vancouver, being able to cut shorter and longer hair has been an instrumental part of her career. “For me, barbering and [men’s] cuts are very important, especially with shorter hair, because you can really see the weight in the hair and I feel like that translates into longer hair,” she says. “If you only do longer hair, you don’t always see the weight distribution in the haircut. When I was first cutting long hair, I felt robotic doing the same type of layering every time, until I started barbering, I realized that if I leave one part longer or missed a spot, the weight distribution is going to make the haircut or colour look different and it’s not going to be flattering. You get to really assess the head shape, too.”
Elevating the Experience For Thom Robins, owner of Thom, a men’s salon and barbershop in Vancouver, the idea of offering his clients a new salon experience is part of his inspiration for his own shop, which opened in 2019. “We opened something that, in Canadian barbering standards, has a little bit more of a European feel and is more of a men’s salon,” says Robins. “A lot of the barbershops here are
traditional, and very casual or ‘bro-y.’ I wanted to present something that was more from my background of working in the U.K, London, and in New York, and just has a more salon feel to it, with more high-end service and more technical ability from the stylists to offer more to the consumer. I think the consumer base demands it now.” Since the pandemic, his shop has adapted to the
“I THINK PEOPLE ARE GROWING BEYOND THE LIMITATIONS OF TRADITIONAL BARBERING AND ARE LOOKING FOR MORE THAN JUST A HAIRCUT.” –THOM ROBINS, OWNER OF THOM, VANCOUVER
growing needs of men. “We still offer shaving services, but it’s not the bulk of our revenue. I think it’s waned. We do a lot of beard services, but the bulk of what we do is haircare based,” he adds. Some clients are realizing how much of their disposable income they have saved during the pandemic, while others are missing the experience of being in a salon or barbershop. Since the last year has changed so much of the client’s experience (due to the extra health and safety protocols), it’s important to make an in-person visit as enjoyable as possible. “I think some clients realized they saved money [by staying home], so some aren’t coming in as often,” says Mak. “For us, the shampooing and scalp massage is a big part of the experience, and I have clients tell me they miss that. I think the pandemic has ➤ salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 31
“IF YOU’RE TURNING AWAY CLIENTS, IT MEANS YOU’RE TURNING AWAY BUSINESS. STAY OPEN-MINDED AND DON’T BE AFRAID TO STEP OUTSIDE OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE.” –MAKI MAK, HAIRSTYLIST AND BARBER, ZINC HAIR STUDIO
made people realize that they miss the whole experience of seeing their stylist, and of feeling special. I think it does a lot for their mental health.” For the men that didn’t go the DIY route during the pandemic, many are sporting longer, grown-out hairstyles that some have even decided to keep. “We get calls all the time from someone with long hair, asking if we have someone that cuts long hair. Of course, we do! But in the barbering world, I think a lot of guys have had bad experiences,” says Robins. “We also get a lot of clients who have been previously going to more women-centric salons, and now they feel more comfortable coming to us because they think they have a comparable environment, specifically for them.” Higher Learning With an abundance of free education available online, there’s no better time than now to learn new skills that will help you expand your clientele—especially if your province or region is still in lockdown. “Continuing education is so easy, thanks to so many easily accessible videos. I follow so many different hairstylists and barbers on Instagram, and there are so many posts that you can look through to be inspired and dive in more,” says Mak. “Taking
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Treat Them Right Aside from the traditional hair and grooming services, treatments have been a rising demand among men. Robins says he’s noticed a trend with keratin treatments. “I think people are now starting to realize that as their hair gets longer and they are going three months [or longer] without a haircut, they are living with their natural texture more,” he says. “We’re seeing a big increase in keratin treatments. They take less convincing to do—people are just doing them and spending the money.” Charpentier notes that perms were a big trend and should also be something you’re comfortable with doing, so you’re able to cater to any (and every) client’s hair needs.
the extra time to practice on a mannequin or a model and dip your toes into a new technique will definitely help open up your eyes to different ways to do things. It will spill over into your daily life, and it may open doors of opportunity.” Add to the fact that the trend of men wearing their hair longer is likely going to stick around, it’s clear that the need to be able to handle any hair length, type or texture is paramount. “It’s important to follow the changes in the industry and educate yourself. If you don’t learn new skills, you stay at the same place and you can’t fulfill [the client’s] request, so you won’t generate any more profit,” says Charpentier. “I enjoy doing men’s hair
HAIR BY ERIC CHARPENTIER
because there are so many ways to work on it. I love creating texture, blunt lines and an amazing fade on the same head! It’s so creative and seeing the impact of your haircut is amazing.” “We have to keep the
momentum going or you’re going to get stagnant,” adds Robins. “Look at new ways to add new services for the future of barbering and men’s hairstyling. I personally think traditionalism is dead and while it’s not likely to go away completely, it’s slowly fading out of the picture.”
PHOTOS: HAIR: ELISE ANTOINE, MYLORD COIFFURE, FRANCE, MAKEUP: NATASZA BIGOS, WARDROBE STYLING: GOSHA KUSPER, PHOTOS: PAWEL WYLAG
YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO HAIRCUTTING
Want to know what it takes to be a well-rounded haircutter? We’re breaking down the tips, tricks and techniques from industry experts to help you refine your skill set. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 33
“I CAN GIVE ANYONE A HAIRCUT THAT I THINK WILL BE SUITED TO THEM AND LOOK AWESOME AND FLATTERING, BUT IF THEY’RE NOT CONFIDENT WEARING IT, IT’S NEVER GOING TO BE THEIR BEST LOOK. IT’S IMPORTANT TO WORK WITH YOUR CLIENT AND HAVE THEM TRUST YOU.” –JOHANNA LIBBEY, CO-OWNER OF MOODS HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER
For those outside the beauty industry, haircutting may seem like a rather simple, straightforward task, but those in the hair world know great cuts take years of practice and skill. Each haircut is different, and not just because of the different hair lengths, textures or even the different genders of your clients, but because a good haircut takes into account the person’s head shape, hair type, personality and facial features. It’s about seeing the whole package and creating a flattering look that makes them feel their best. Since cutting hair during the COVID-19 pandemic has created a new set of challenges (with clients wearing masks, you can no longer see their facial features throughout the service), there’s never been a better time to put the focus on refining your skills. And with some salons still under lockdown, using your extra downtime to learn new skills can yield considerable rewards. “I could be working on a set of twins with the same hair sections, same hair length and hair type, but one twin is going with an edgy bob and the other is going for a bit of a longer look,”
says Kathy Simon, owner of Mekka Salon in Montreal, “They’re completely different because the detailing and finishing can change the whole haircut.”
—Kristin Rankin, owner of Fox & Jane Salon, Toronto
Short When it comes to cutting shorter hair, some stylists can struggle with the process, while for others it’s almost therapeutic. No matter how you “slice” it, taking your time is essential. “Make sure you’re not removing too much hair. A lot of us are overly excited when we cut hair and go for it a little too quickly in the beginning. I recommend being a bit cautious where you begin, because it’s easy to continue to remove more over time.” —Lindie Blackwell, master stylist and colourist, Gravity Salon Professionals, Barrie, Ont.
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“When it comes to a shorter/ textured haircut that has less precision to it, I enjoy doing point cutting and a lot of weight removal—depending, of course, on the density of the hair. I like to feel the hair, and while I still remain technical there’s a lot of feeling that goes into the hair as well as finessing at the end of the service.”
PRO TIP WHEN CUTTING SCISSOR OVER COMB, RANKIN SAYS USING LONG, SIZE 7 SHEARS HELPS CREATE A NATURAL FLOW WITH MORE COVERAGE AND CONTROL.
“Before anything, an amazing consultation is absolutely necessary. Detailing on a short cut is where it gets really personalized and where you get to customize it. I recommend having a good shape/silhouette to start. Knowing your outline is important.” —Johanna Libbey, co-owner of Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
PRO TIP WHEN CUTTING AFRO HAIR, LIBBEY SAYS SHE USES A PICK TO COMB THE ENTIRE HEAD AND EXPAND THE SHAPE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BEFORE SHAPING, AND WETS THE HAIR BEFORE RIBBONING AND SETTING THE CURLS.
Cutting and Gender While many salons still charge for haircutting services based on gender, the gender-neutral movement has helped more people realize that associating certain styles/cuts with a particular gender can be limiting to people who identify as non-binary. “When a person sees that a salon’s menu is separated by men’s and women’s cuts and they don’t identify with one/either of those, it sends the message that this person doesn’t matter there,” says Rankin, who uses they/ them pronouns, and has firsthand experience with this issue. “The goal is for people in the LGBTQ+ community to leave the salon happy—the way cis-gendered clients do—which is not always the case when you don’t identify within the gender norm.” Now, more stylists are starting to factor in the length of hair and the time it takes to cut. Not only has this impacted their pricing structure, but also helps make their salon a more inclusive space. “Techniques themselves are nongendered,” says Rankin, who suggests listening to a client’s wants and needs before assuming what they are looking for. “Allow them to lead the conversation about the look they want.”
PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK
While Libbey says her techniques are based more on the client’s natural texture rather than gender, there are some exceptions. “There are some basics I follow when creating a more traditionally ‘masculine’ shape,” she says, “because men typically have a squarer head shape.” For Blackwell, it’s more about factoring in the client’s facial structure and hair texture, but also their lifestyle. “In general, I’ve noticed a difference in their willingness to use styling aids,” she says. “For example, men typically don’t blow-dry their hair, so for those male clients, it’s important to give them a haircut that doesn’t require too much styling.”
Textured/Curly When cutting textured and curly hair, more planning is often required. Since curls look and behave differently when wet vs. dry, it’s important to work with your client to help them achieve a look that works best for them and their at-home styling habits. “Curls are going to retract back, which means I’m going to have to think about my finger angles. The same angle can create different results because the hair retracts back in.” — Kathy Simon, owner, Mekka Salon, Montreal
“Curly hair can vary so much because the size of the curl depends on its type and tightness. I always ask my curly-haired clients to come in with how they’d normally wear their hair, so I can see their capabilities and techniques on a daily basis of the client—in terms of how they style and wear their hair.
I give them a haircut they can work with every day. I wash and dry the hair and sometimes add a few small details at the end.” —Kristin Rankin, owner of Fox & Jane Salon, Toronto
“I start by working on the structure and shape, and determining where I’m building my weight. You really want to map out the haircut well and give it a really beautiful outline. After I determine the shape, I go back in and remove weight where I need to. This is also a great time to refine the details.”
PRO TIP WHEN IT COMES TO LOOSER CURLS, RANKIN SAYS IT’S MAINLY ABOUT REMOVING WEIGHT. “THE CURL IS SOMEWHAT SLIDING DOWN, SO I’LL TAKE A ONE-INCH SUBSECTION AND COIL THE HAIR. THEN I SLIDE IT DOWN TO REMOVE SOME OF THE WEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISING THE PERIMETER.”
—Johanna Libbey, co-owner of Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver ➤ salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 35
PRO TIP WHEN CUTTING HAIR DURING THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC, BLACKWELL SAYS SHE ASKS HER CLIENTS TO SHOW HER A SELFIE ON THEIR PHONE. “WE NEED TO SEE THE STRUCTURE OF THE FACE, IN ORDER TO DECIDE WHICH FEATURES TO ENHANCE AND WHICH FEATURES TO TAKE ATTENTION AWAY FROM. IF I WANT TO ENHANCE CHEEKBONES OR SHORTEN THE JAW LINE, THOSE ARE DIFFERENT THINGS. WITHIN THE LIMITS OF THE TEXTURE AND DENSITY OF MY CLIENT’S HAIR, I NEED TO KNOW WHICH STYLES THAT PERSON’S HAIR CAN AND CANNOT SUPPORT.”
PRO TIP WHEN CUTTING LONG HAIR, BLACKWELL WARNS AGAINST OVERCUTTING. “IT CAN BE OBVIOUS WHERE YOU DISTRIBUTE YOUR WEIGHT WHEN IT COMES TO LAYERING, SO THAT’S A WATCH-OUT AREA.”
The Five Keys
Long Since many long-haired clients can be emotionally attached to their long locks, a lot of precision, thought and care should go into creating the perfect cut. Listening to your clients’ needs and finishing off the service with a perfect style and finish is crucial. “I keep the integrity and length of the hair to the best of my ability. My specialty is the ‘invisible haircut’ where I just dust off the ends, so a lot of ‘mermaids’ come to me.” —Lindie Blackwell, master stylist and colourist, Gravity Salon Professionals, Barrie, Ont.
“Long hair requires a lot more internal work and weight removal, but at the end I still finesse it, finish it up nicely and do a bit of dry cutting. That’s where I find you can make the hair shine at the end, with styling.” — Kristin Rankin, owner of Fox & Jane Salon, Toronto
“It’s important to listen to clients and find out where they’re looking for volume and where they’re looking for movement, and not take off more than they’re asking. It helps build trust with them so they will also come back again sooner.” —Johanna Libbey, co-owner of Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
36 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Simon also believes that there is no sex to haircutting but rather just adapting your method based on your specific client. “My system works on any type of hair and any head shape,” she says, “regardless of gender.” 1 PATTERNS AND SECTIONING the process of moving through a haircut and understanding how it will flow. The shag and modern mullet (think: Miley Cyrus) are sure to continue turning heads this season—and for all the right reasons. While these looks may just seem overly texturized to create a more dishevelled result, they are actually cut with a lot of precision and technique. Even clients with finer hair can get in on the trend, as shaggy looks are typically created by cutting vertical layers, leaving more length and weight at the top of the head and creating the illusion of a thicker and more volumized look. “When it comes to a short cut, when I want to see some texture and the hair is a bit denser and doesn’t get a lot of volume, I like to do layers like a shag or a mullet,” says Rankin. “I’ll go in with a razor to bring out some of the texture.”
2 MANIPULATION how your finger angle relates to each hair section to determine how it’ll build up the shape. 3 LENGTH determining what length you’re going to cut, because even if you use the same sectioning and finger angle, the weight sits differently [depending on the length] and will change the haircut. 4 HAIR TYPE understanding the type of hair you’re working with because you’ll get different results based on it. 5 PERSONALIZATION personalizing the cut to make it unique to each individual in your chair.
PHOTOS (LEFT): GETTYSTOCK; HAIR: DAVID MURRAY, IRELAND; MAKEUP: TALISMAN; PHOTO: ALAN KEVILLE
According to Simon, “the greatest secret in the world” for good haircutting is about understanding (and mastering) five very distinctive keys. “Independently, each of these keys do nothing, but when you put them together, you create different structures,” she says. “Really great haircutting is about understanding the five keys and knowing that as soon of one of the keys change, the whole look changes.”
CO LLE CTIO NS
March
An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 37
Collections — CLEAN CUT
Classic styles and textured cuts are injected with modern flair in this Canadian collection by the 2020 winner of American Crew’s All-Star Challenge.
HAIR Sandra Perovic, Sigma Barber Studio, Vancouver PHOTOS Jamie Mann
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To view more photos, open your camera app and scan
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 39
Collections — WONDERLAND
A trifecta of bold shapes, sharp lines and classic colours infuse this British collection with next-level style.
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HAIR Terri Kay and Andrea Giles, Mark Leeson, U.K. PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 41
Collections — ELEMENTS 2.0
This British collection pushes the boundaries of shape and texture, with cropped cuts, intricate braids and edgy silhouettes.
HAIR Marcello Moccia and Karen Perry, Room 97 Creative, Wakefield and Leeds, U.K. PHOTOS Richard Miles
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 43
Collections — RUGGED
Long waves and texture combined with edgy cuts make this black and white collection a standout.
Contessa 2021 Entrant, Men’s Hairstylist Jason Massa, Lexa Coiffure, Brossard, Que. WARDROBE STYLING Jason Massa PHOTOS Ovidiu Zaharia
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 45
Collections — STRIKE
From luscious curls to livedin texture, this Canadian collection is the epitome of modern sophistication.
Contessa 2021 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist Aran Beattie, Vanity House, London, Ont. MAKEUP Julie Puterbough WARDROBE STYLING Brianna Gastadi and Jen Lofthouse PHOTOS Paula Tizzard
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 47
Collections — BRIGHT FUTURE
From textured styles to neon hues, this Canadian collection has a range of looks that are sure to spark your creativity.
Contessa 2021 Entrant, Men’s Hairstylist Fabrizio Perciballi, Del Monaco Hair Studio, Toronto MAKEUP Justine Cassar WARDROBE STYLING Donovan White PHOTOS Ed Kowal
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 49
Collections — D2
From deconstructed cuts to eye-catching colour, this Spanish collection takes fashion-forward to the next level.
50 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
HAIR Isaac Martin, Black Style Peluqueros, Spain WARDROBE STYLING Joss Blaké PHOTOS Esteban Roca salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 51
Collections — SILHOUETTES
Clean lines and wearable texture add character to this black and white collection.
HAIR Thom Robins, Thom, Vancouver MAKEUP Freddy Sim WARDROBE STYLING Tony Vous PHOTOS John Bello
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salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 53
Collections — ALLURE
Natural beauty is at the forefront of this moody British collection featuring chic styles that blur the lines between haute couture and street style.
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HAIR Kate Drury, MODE Hair, U.K. MAKEUP Lan Nguyen-Grealis PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 55
Contessa Gallery — 2021 FINALIST, EMERGING HAIRSTYLIST
Kelly Héroux Quebec-based hairstylist Kelly Héroux may be only 19 years old, but she has the drive and talent to rival some of the most experienced hairstylists. Working at Salon Espace C in Brossard, Que. with Contessa awardwinning brother/sister duo Pete and Ann-Marie Goupil, Héroux has been motivated to push her craft and explore her creativity. And although she loves competitions, this was her first time entering the Contessa Awards, with a collection that was all about simplicity and purity. “I was super happy [to be named a finalist] and mostly surprised because the competition was really fierce,” says Héroux. “Just being a finalist during my first time participating was like winning, so I’m extremely proud of myself.”
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Sharing Knowledge Despite her age, Héroux is open to learning as she goes and taking chances. “I’m not afraid to try and see what my limits are,” she says. “It’s a bit intimidating to compare myself to others, especially given my age, but I try not to look at it like that. I work well under pressure, so I think a little stress is good for me and it just inspires me to see how far I can go.” Although she has a good head on her shoulders, she’s surrounded by people she can learn from and is not afraid to ask for help. “It’s very motivating to have [Ann-Marie and Pete] because they’ve been through this and can help me learn how to handle it all,” she says. It’s important to have mentors in the industry, and Héroux credits AnnMarie for helping her throughout the creative process.
Precision is Key Héroux’s collection showcased three different yet very cohesive looks, inspired by fashion week and Yves Saint Laurent. “I think it’s about time that trends for men are more about length and texture, so it was important to me that this wasn’t a clipper cut,” she says. “I really like cropped looks and cuts with a more natural finish, so I went for a mix of the two. I created this cut with a combination of blade, feather and scissors. My model had a beautiful pale complexion and blue/green eyes, so it was obvious that I was going to do a more copper colour.” And while her Salon Espace C mentors have and continue to inspire and help her along the way, Héroux says that she looks for lessons from everyone around her. “Hairstylist or not, I love to learn from just about everyone.”
TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, HAIR: KELLY HEROUX, SALON ESPACE C, BROSSARD, QUE., MAKEUP: SOPHIE ST-LAURENT, WARDROBE STYLING: SAMY JANE HUGHES, PHOTO: TINA PICARD
“I love to learn from just about everyone.”
Business —
Tilting the Scales Find out why now is the perfect time to offer gender-neutral pricing in your salon.
For the past few years, the genderneutral movement has been making waves in the beauty industry, from creating a more gender-inclusive salon experience to adjusting service prices based on the time required for each haircut. “Salons are too often not an easy place for people who are non-binary,” says Steph McNair, owner of Maneland Hair in Halifax, N.S. “The pandemic has compelled salons to move to a more timebased approach to pricing, putting the focus on the service and what the guest wants and needs.”
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: GETTY
Tried-and-True While the gender-neutral pricing model began trending in the mid 2010s, the concept actually dates back to the late ’90s and early ’00s, when salons in Canada, New York and London, England began introducing it. “When I first started my apprenticeship in 1995, I worked at a salon that had one price for men and women. So, that has always been in the back of my mind; figuring out how to go about changing what the current norm is. When you’re competing with $11 haircuts in the same neighbourhood, you have to find a way to compete (even while offering a higher-end service) without diluting your brand and product.” — Nicole Manzer, owner, Manzer Hair Studio, Toronto Time = Money With the COVID-19 pandemic changing so much about how salons operate, many have been required to add at least 15 minutes to (or in between) their services to accommodate sanitizing and other health/safety protocols. Many were forced to limit the number of clients allowed in the space and restrict the
length of appointments. In light of such significant changes, it raises the question: How do you base service prices on the time they take, rather than on the gender of the client sitting in the chair? “We really had to think about time and how long a haircut takes. [When we first reopened] we weren’t offering blow-drys, so we booked 45-minute appointments for a shampoo, scalp massage and cut. Even though we raised our prices, it benefitted clients because we only charged for a 30-minute time slot instead of an hour time slot. It benefitted us to have a fairly structured segment of time.” — Nicole Manzer, owner, Manzer Hair Studio, Toronto Be Progressive There’s no doubt that whenever a salon owner decides to change or raise prices, it can be deemed “risky.” But as the old adage goes: No risk, no reward! “What can get difficult is when clients talk to each other about how much their haircuts cost, and everybody does haircuts differently. It’s about communication. Be upfront and don’t hide behind your receptionist. Quote your pricing, reasoning and stand strong. It’s okay to be different.” — Nicole Manzer, owner, Manzer Hair Studio, Toronto Retain Clients While some regions are still in lockdown, getting clients back into salons when they reopen will be a priority. Some may be lucky to have a backlog of clients waiting to rebook their next appointment, but it’s also important to think about bringing back clients who may be open to the idea of trying out a new salon or barbershop.
“I noticed whenever I went into a salon to ask for a ‘men’s’ cut, they’d always end up feminizing it somehow, and certain barbershops simply will not accept ‘female’ clients (even for short, barbered hair). I started hearing from so many people who were having similar experiences. I want my clients to feel seen and understood when they’re in my chair.” — Steph McNair, owner, Maneland Hair, Halifax, N.S. “It’s always bothered me that pricing for men and women was different. It wasn’t until one of my clients of 10 years left that I stepped back to look at my business model. It helped me realize that it’s not about gender—I need to value my services with my time. Our prices reflect how much time we spend cutting and styling the hair.” — Nicole Manzer, owner, Manzer Hair Studio, Toronto
Steph McNair (they/ them) is a Halifax-based artist and owner of Maneland Hair, which has been providing “non-binary beauty” since the salon’s inception in 2019. Nicole Manzer (she/ her) is a Toronto-based hairstylist and owner of Manzer Hair Studio, which implemented gender-neutral pricing in 2019.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 57
Profile — PETER GOSLING
Thinking Outside The Box Find out how Toronto-based men’s hairstylist Peter Gosling utilizes education as a means of driving his success, and why he believes diversifying your skills is an absolute must.
BY SAMI CHAZONOFF
Why was it important for you to learn both men’s hairstyling and barbering skills? Do you find that it helps you be a more well-rounded stylist? For sure! People are losing money by not expanding their skills. I started as a colourist and then became a hairstylist. I was specializing in bobs and pixie cuts for women, but I’d cut my male friends’ hair at home. They didn’t want to come to a salon because it was “too feminine.” 58 salonmagazine.ca /March 2021
I wanted to learn everything. I created an insane clientele for myself. I was so much more well-rounded than other people because I wanted to be. I wanted to learn it all and that really helped me gain more clients and, as a result, make more money. Tell us about your shop, Glassbox, and how it differs from other barbershops. I opened Glassbox in 2005 with my business partner, Andrew LaGrave. We realized that the barbershop industry was a fast-growing market. I’ve worked at several barbershops and everyone was doing this Boardwalk Empire, classic and old-timey barbershop thing. We look to the past for inspiration, but we have to bring that to the future and keep things relevant and fresh. There was a huge gap in the market. Guys weren’t getting their hair blowdried or finessed the way that women were. Men want to be pampered, too! We wanted to open up a barbershop but with the concept of a salon. We would call it a barbershop, so we didn’t scare men off with the term “salon,” but it would run and operate like a salon. And we exploded! People were drawn to our white space that was neutral, open, and light and bright with greenery and plants. It’s aesthetically beautiful, yet we have great skill and are providing an amazing experience. We got rid of the 30-minute inand-out, rushed business model of a barbershop and made our services 45 minutes, charged a bit more and
would offer a beverage and a blow-dry. Upping the price seemed fair because we were providing professionalism and experience; it was the whole package. And we wanted to be inclusive to everybody. We’re mainly about short hair grooming but for everyone: women, men and non-binary clients. All genders, races and textures. You also started an education program and academy. Why did you decide to get into education, and how important is education in this industry, particularly for barbering and men’s hairstyling? Our education program launched a year after we opened. It exploded and has since continued to do really well locally, across the country and internationally. There was a large
PHOTOS: JASON DAM, PETER GOSLING
How did you get your start in the hair industry? This is my 16th year cutting hair. I trained at the Aveda Institute and Academy in Toronto. I started my career in women’s hairdressing at salons and worked for almost eight years before I jumped over to the men’s side of things. I’ve worked at prolific salons in Toronto, such as Civello, W Lifestyle and Grateful Head. My mother is a big part of why I’m cutting hair today. She always wanted to be a hairdresser but was never allowed to. I was one of those people that was a little bit lost. I wanted to do something creative, but I didn’t know where to apply it, in order to make an honest living. My mom thought the hairdressing industry would be amazing for me and a great way to express myself. She would always say, “You get to work with people, and you love people—you’re social!” So, I started my first job as an apprentice at a salon, which she pushed me to do, and I never looked back.
market—hairdressers were needing barbering classes, and barbers were needing hairdressing classes. We offer advanced classes and a beginner crash course. We need to train to inspire! Our new platform “Barber Begins” consists of detailed videos, explaining everything from A to Z. The online education platform is not only good for individuals, but I’m selling the program to hairdressing schools across Ontario. A lot of people don’t realize that education is something you have to keep doing. Training and developing your skills never stops. When people say to me, “I don’t know why my business is not successful,” it’s because there isn’t a focus on continual learning. I still take three to four classes a year, I host guest artists—I want to see what the industry’s top stylists are doing
and I try to incorporate those skills into my lifestyle and business. If you don’t continue to educate yourself, you won’t stay passionate. When it comes to education, you’re spending money on personal development. Whether it’s reading books or attending seminars, the biggest and best thing you can do is invest in education, development and growth. Education and development are the keys to success in this industry—I can’t stress that enough. What has been your proudest accomplishment to date in the industry? I don’t know if I’m exactly there yet, but I am proud that I’ve created an amazing space for people to come and have careers. I don’t give jobs to people; I give them careers.
Young people have such a short attention span, which is why Instagram Reels and TikTok were created. People don’t want to watch anything for a long time before swiping and seeing the next thing. You need to engage with this new, younger demographic that lives on their phone. To get young people into your chair, you need to be current. I don’t use social media to be famous; I use it to educate, inspire and expand my reach. People are a little too wrapped up in thinking you need social media to be successful. You need social media to advertise and promote your brand. It’s about development and inspiration.
When it comes to your work, what is your favourite thing to be working on? I love everything about what I do, including managing a team and running a business. I miss hair shows because they’re all about the community and networking. Doing editorial and creative stuff is also incredible. I don’t work behind the chair so much anymore; I have five salons now and an academy, but I see myself more as a coach than a boss. I genuinely care about the development of people’s skills. I love being creative, but the development of others is probably my favourite part of what I do. Why do you think it’s important that hairstylists have such a strong presence on social media? Do you think being active on social media helps your career as a stylist?
What impact has the COVID-19 pandemic had on you as a business owner? What advice do you have for people to help them bounce back? Most salon owners were greatly affected and lost both staff and money. The pandemic only affected me because we were closed, but otherwise we had a pretty decent year. We made sure we could take care of our staff, but we survived, and I feel really bad for those who couldn’t. I think people are realizing that this is a good industry to be in, though. Although salons are closed (as most small businesses and restaurants are), people are realizing they should start cutting hair. Hair will always grow, and you’ll always be able to have work. It’s a great industry to come into for that reason, although now is a hard time. But it’s a hard time for most industries.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 59
Interiors — AUGUSTIN HOMME
Man Cave Find out how this Montrealbased barbershop adjusted its space to provide a safe yet comfortable experience.
When it comes to men’s grooming, nothing quite beats the experience of a barbershop, especially one that places an emphasis on providing a premium masculine aesthetic with an industrial edge. Augustin Homme, a Montreal-based shop that offers fine men’s grooming in a luxurious setting, elevates the standard grooming visit by offering a casually cool yet sophisticated environment. Located underneath Salon Augustin (their flagship women’s hair salon), Augustin Homme has a homey-meetssalon-energy vibe that’s traditionally lacking in many barbershops. Offering beverages such as espresso and scotch, and comfortable seating to watch sports games, men easily feel right at home. So it’s no surprise that when the COVID-19 pandemic began, Augustin Homme had to pivot and change up their signature “cozy” style to offer a whole new experience.
60 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Relax in Style Although the shell of the barbershop itself was given a more industrial, rough finish—hence the unpolished cement floors, vaulted ceiling with exposed ductwork and lack of trim work— Augustin Homme’s owner, Sam Agostino and his wife, Katrina, wanted to fill the space with more elevated items.
“The space is filled with luxury,” says Katrina. “From custom gilded lettering at the entrance, to leather chairs imported from Italy by Lanvain.” To further accentuate the stunning barbershop chairs, she adds that Thomas O’Brien Hicks lights were placed above each chair to provide a visual sense of comfort. In repeating
PHOTOS: DOMINIC CLAING
BY SAMI CHAZONOFF
DETAILS Opened in November 2016 DESIGN Lanvain Design and Katrina Agostino SPACE 750 square feet TEAM 4 barbers BRANDS Hanz De Fuko, Layrite, Reuzel INSTAGRAM @augustinhomme WEBSITE augustinhomme.com
the brass from these lights, oversized mirrors from Restoration Hardware were placed above each station, Lewis Dolin drawer pulls were put on the drawers and Rejuvenation shelf brackets were used to hold up the custom shelves above the back of the bar. “Overall, it was important to think outside the design box,” says Katrina. Rather than having a typical waiting area and reception desk, Augustin Homme has a bar instead. “Since we decided to put in a bar, it made sense for it to have a glass display case as a top, to further feature the products.” Making a Change Though the barbershop prides itself on providing a more intimate atmosphere, so much of that effect has been removed due to the pandemic and multiple provincial lockdowns that have forced the closure of
barbershops and salons. “[When we first reopened] we had to remove our waiting area and we haven’t been able to serve our famous cappuccinos since!” adds Sam. When designing the space initially, the goal was to configure the entrance to be within the main entrance so that clients wouldn’t have to enter from outside. “Since the space was carved out from the centre of the building, there were no windows,” he says. “Therefore, I thought it was essential to do a glassfronted entrance. This also gave the barbershop the opportunity to look like the exterior of a high-end men’s boutique. Another critical decision was to open up the ceiling.” When the barbershop reopened after the first provincial lockdown, many safety and health measures were implemented: Personal protective
equipment (PPE) for staff, additional sanitizing protocols, hand sanitization stations and longer appointment times to ensure proper disinfection between clients. However, it was important to the owners to still try to give their clients the ultimate “Augustin Homme” experience—or at least as close as they could get. “We were able to devote a space specifically to men’s needs, with an aesthetic catering to our premium clientele,” says Sam. “It’s that play between the finishes, which I believe sets it apart from other barbershops. Not everything matches, which is what makes the space feel more inviting and relaxing. Our clients may come for a haircut, but they often linger and chat longer, because they are so comfortable.” salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 61
Events —
Inside Redken Symposium The Virtual Connection! There was no shortage of education at the first-ever virtual Redken Symposium. From a captivating show opener, to 36 different interactive classes featuring artists and ambassadors from across Canada and around the world, there was an abundance of inspirational information and resources to help viewers refine their skills and hone their craft. When: January 10-11 —
Montreal-based hairstylist and colourist Catherine Allard showcased her methods for using various coil-and-crimp techniques to create perfectly textured looks.
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62 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Colourist Katrina Smiley from Kincardine, Ont., demonstrated how the “baby blonde” hue can work on any skin tone.
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Toronto-based hairstylist Jorge Joao shared tips and tricks for creating the ultimate “power bun.”
PHOTOS: SALON STAFF; JAMIE MANN
Industry legend Sam Villa shared his tips for “exploring lines” and transforming ordinary looks into extraordinary works of art. Plus, he shared business tips for how to add value at the chair.
Behind the Scenes with American Crew’s All-Star Challenge Global Winner, Sandra Perovic! As one of five global winners of American Crew’s 2020 All-Star Challenge, Vancouver-based barber Sandra Perovic earned her third title and participated in an exclusive photo shoot. With her winning entry photo as the inspiration, Perovic created hairstyles that flattered each model’s face shape and style. Turn to page 38 to see more photos! When & Where: December 15, 2020, Vancouver
salonmagazine.ca / March 2021 63
Getting Inspired at the Davines World Wide Hair Tour in the Cloud Davines hosted a virtual rendition of their World Wide Hair Tour, which was filled with eye-catching hair shows and an informative segment on sustainability. With the theme of “regeneration,” the digital event spanned two days and featured eight stylists, kicking off with an opener from Davines chairman, Davide Bollati, and presentations by hair art director, Tom Connell (pictured above), and artistic team members, Anna Pacitto (right) and James Abu-Ulba (below). When & Where: November 22-23, 2020
64 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Tom Nelson has joined Danny Thournout as a full partner at All In Trading, a representer of manufacturers in Canada that specializes in beauty, nails and hair. Nelson and Thournout have been reunited to collaborate ahead of Thournout’s retirement at the end of 2021—his 50th year in the trade.
Tom Nelson
Danny Thournout
Davines Group has appointed their North American CEO, Anthony Molet, to replace Paolo Braguzzi as the head of the Davines Anthony Molet Group, beginning in May 2021. Molet joined the company in 2008 and has implemented structure and continuity, resulting in steady growth to help make North America a key market for the Davines Group. Braguzzi, who is stepping down as CEO and managing director for Davines Group, will maintain his seat as a board member. Paul Falltrick has been appointed as a new artistic ambassador for Revlon Professional. With more than 30 years of relevant experience, Falltrick is an award-winning British hairstylist, who is renowned for his fine cutting skills. He’s dedicated to sharing this passion with global audiences as well as his clients at GFC Hairdressing, a salon founded by Falltrick and his mother, Gisele.
PHOTOS: TOM NELSON, DANNY THOURNOUT; DAVINES; REVLON PROFESSIONAL
Events —
Scoop —
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➣ We’re feeling the icy vibes with this sleek, blunt bob by Vancouver-based hairstylist @stevenvanhair. 66 salonmagazine.ca / March 2021
Contessa 2021 winner for British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year @hairbyhanvancity gave her client the ultimate #MulletMadness look.
It’s no surprise that this wavy “baklawa hairstyle” by @waseemyouans, a barber from Windsor, Ont. garnered more than 266K views on Instagram!
TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF; PHOTO: INSTAGRAM
Salon Social —
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Montreal-based stylist @ericchairstylist shows off his masterful cutting skills on these luscious, textured locks.
Contessa awardwinning Montrealbased hairstylist @mainvillemathieu knows how to create the ultimate lived-in look with a shiny finish.
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Looking for more inspiration for the upcoming season? These hairstylists have got you covered with looks that are all about embracing and enhancing natural texture and length! From progressive cuts to the latest trends, check out what these Canadian stylists are creating, and tag us @salonmagazine on Instagram for a chance to be featured!
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Can’t Get Enough
With short, textured locks and bright shades that scream spring, we’re loving this look by Vancouver-based hairstylist @makimakhair.
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