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March 2022 34 F E AT U R E
Mentoring Matters
54 GU Y L A INE M A RTEL , GU Y L A INE M A RTEL A RTISTE S COIFFEU RS , M O N T- S A I N T- H I L A I R E , Q U E .
We spoke with mentoring masters about the importance of developing your team’s skill sets and how the practice has helped them build successful businesses.
38 F E AT U R E
Dynamic Duos
“I always tell my team that if they get a chance to work with one of my clients, I want them to keep them. That’s the whole idea of hiring people; teaching them skills to help them grow.”
Ever wonder how some of the industry’s leading partners got their starts? We caught up with couples and siblings to find out how they work together and what they’ve learned from each other throughout the years.
45 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
Karen Thomson; Andrew Smith; Tony Ricci; Siobhan Haug; Guylaine Martel
58 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Justin Rizzuto
Find out how this Albertabased stylist used the pandemic as an opportunity to challenge his creativity and create a collection that pushed him outside of his comfort zone.
— EDWIN JOHNSTON, MULTI-AWARD-WINNING OWNER OF CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE IN NANAIMO, B.C., AND KMS GLOBAL ART TEAM MEMBER ON THE COVER: HAIR: KAREN THOMSON, KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA, U.K. MAKEUP: MEGUMI MATSUNO, WARDROBE STYLING: MAGDALENA JACOBS, PHOTO: JACK EAMES salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 13
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Editor’s Letter
18 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Check out our website for up-to-date industry news, expanded feature stories, hair collections, the latest how-tos and much more!
48 A NDR EW SMITH, A NDR EW SMITH SA LONS , U.K .
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62
W H AT ’ S N E W
BUSINESS
Hairlines
Learn about new product launches in haircare, colour, styling and nails. Plus, get inspired by the Pantone Color of the Year and the latest haircutting and styling trends.
60 P RO F I L E
Shining Star
Get to know celebrity hairstylist (and 2021 Contessa judge!) Ted Gibson, and learn why he decided to open the world’s first “smart salon.”
Transitioning Your Clientele
Find out how salon owners are maximizing pandemic guidelines and capacity restrictions to shift their clientele to their team while simultaneously increasing their revenue.
64 INTER IORS
50 CONTE SSA 2022 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N HAIRSTYLIST TON Y R ICCI, R ICCI H A IR CO. , EDMONTON
So Stylish
Take a peek into this luxurious Quebec-based space that prioritizes clients’ needs for the ultimate in-salon experience.
66 SA LON SOCI A L
Mentoring Milestones
Three hairstylists share their mentoring journeys and how they helped transform their careers.
14 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
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Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 31, ISSUE 2 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca
Editor’s Letter —
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR Leen Blaibleh leen@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Sami Chazonoff
CONSULTANT Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca
Spring Renewal
Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief
16 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Spring is one of my favourite times of the year. Since it’s a season that’s all about change, it’s a great time to hit the refresh button. Whether you want to do some sprucing up around the salon or at home, or start a new hobby, what better time to take on those challenges than now? Here at Salon, one of our most recent changes includes transitioning our Men’s section to Shortcuts, an area dedicated to providing more technical haircutting tips and tricks that aren’t necessarily gender-specific. As the world (and our industry) evolves, we all need to follow suit, and this is an important step in the right direction when it comes to inclusion. And our focus on growing doesn’t stop there. As we continue to make changes to include more diverse content and imagery, we’re always on the search for new voices to feature in the magazine. Feel free to reach out to us on social media (or by emailing me directly) if you or someone you know has a story to share! Speaking of new voices, this issue is all about “Rising Up” to help the next generation of hairstylists. In Mentoring Matters (pg. 34), I caught up with some of the industry’s leading mentors to find out how they’ve been able to successfully coach their teams and build business along the way. In Dynamic Duos (pg. 36) we spoke with a few of the industry’s best-known couples and families to learn more about how they got started and why working together has made them even stronger. As some salons across the country continue to deal with capacity restrictions, we explore ways of maximizing this in Transitioning Your Clientele (pg. 62) and offer tips for shifting clients to your staff to increase revenue in the salon. Whichever path you choose to take this season, just remember that it’s a great time for a fresh outlook. And after two years that have been difficult for us all, who wouldn’t welcome that?
PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca
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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.
Are you looking for creative inspiration? Our collection archive has tons of editorial collections from talented hairstylists and colourists around the globe.
#SYTYCS Vote Now! Have your say! Vote for your favourite bridal look to help us choose the winner of our first “So You Think You Can Style” contest of the year.
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Step into Spring Get step-by-step details on how to achieve this season’s hottest looks. From styling to cutting, our how-tos are perfect for trying on your clients this spring.
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): HAIR: SUZIE MCGILL AND DYLAN BRITTAIN, RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL, U.K., MAKEUP: KIRSTEN BAILLIE, WARDROBE STYLING: DETROIT LAW, PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG, MAIL BY ZKY ICON FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, COMB AND SCISSORS BY KANGRIF FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, DREAM BUBBLE BY ICON 54 FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, PHOTO: SAM VILLA COMPANY
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18 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
Bold Styles
# MYBELIEF
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SAY HELLO TO SPRING WITH THE LATEST CUTTING AND STYLING TRENDS. PLUS, A LOOK AT NEW PRODUCT LAUNCHES IN HAIRCARE, COLOUR, NAILS AND MORE!
PHOTOS: HAIR: ANTONIO PALLADINO, ANTONIO GIOVANNI HAIRDRESSING, U.K., MAKEUP: BIANCA BONJOUR, WARDROBE STYLING: JAMIE RUSSELL, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY COURTESY OF FPA
➣ Taking inspiration directly from street-style fashion juxtaposed against the modern, successful career woman, the Rebel Roots collection by British Hairdressing Awards finalist Antonio Palladino exhibits a strong representation of femininity. The combination of strong shapes and textures with vibrant hues reflects confidence and individuality, with a variety of haircutting, styling and finishing techniques highlighting the unique essence of every look.
To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 21
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Fast Forward
Hairlines — NEWS
Get quick coverage and full control with Redken’s Color Gels Lacquers 10 Minute. Ideal for root touch-ups, Redken’s permanent Color Gels Lacquers 10 Minute provide unparalleled shine and 100 per cent grey coverage. Formulated with the brand’s proprietary Smart Pause Technology, which delivers high coverage without overprocessing, the colour range contains kinetic dyes that deposit pigment with a shorter processing time. Available in 14 shades, you can touch up your clients’ hair in no time without compromising coverage. Plus, it’s perfect for walk-in appointments and add-on services since it helps save you time while increasing your profit margins!
➣ Care for hair and preserve the planet with Conscious Style from KMS.
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With a range of gentle essential haircare products, KMS Conscious Style is designed for daily use and contains high-performing ingredients, such as Moringa seed oil and oat oil, which are up to 98 per cent naturally derived. The line consists of Everyday Shampoo, Everyday Conditioner, Styling Putty and a Multi-Benefit Spray for all your caring and styling needs. Ideal for normal to fine hair, the products provide weightless hydration while enhancing hair’s natural texture. Best of all: With Conscious Style, stylists no longer have to choose between great hair and protecting the environment.
M O R E T O L OV E
Meet more of your clients’ colour needs with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Chroma ID shades. As more clients are looking for colour options that are equal parts low-commitment and personalized, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Chroma ID is a 100 per cent customizable, semi-permanent mix and tone system. With three new shades now available—8-19 Lavender, 8-46 Chocolate and 9.5-19 Soft Rose—each can be used to enhance or refresh midlengths and ends, or even to extend the longevity of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Royal or Vibrance shades! Chroma ID shades are intermixable and last up to 15 shampoos. Plus, they provide an infinite number of shade possibilities without damaging hair, thanks to the brand’s integrated Bonding Technology that enforces the structural bonds within the hair shaft for stronger hair with less breakage. The shades include Low Salt Technology that maximizes the availability of colour pigments entering the hair for a better colour deposit. They also feature keratin and panthenol, which help seal the outer cuticle and provide extra care for improved hair quality.
22 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE: REDKEN, GHD, SEXY HAIR, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, KMS
S T Y L E A N D S U B S TA N C E
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All About the Curves
Hairlines — NEWS
Create long-lasting, defined curls with ghd’s Curve Thin Wand. Maintaining curls is not easy, especially when dealing with changing temperatures or humidity. If your client’s go-to hairstyle involves a curling wand, you’re in luck. ghd’s Curve Thin Wand helps curls last without losing their shape. The unique 14mm thin barrel defines hair in just three seconds without extreme heat, thanks to the brand’s optimum styling temperature of 365°F, and provides tight curls and bouncy hair that will last up to 24 hours.
➣ S AV E T H E O C E A N S
Offer a new cleansing and conditioning experience with Sexy Hair’s Big Powder Play Shampoo and Conditioner. Are you looking to care for your clients’ hair without using more water? Sexy Hair’s new Big Powder Play Shampoo and Conditioner contain an innovative water-activated volumizing powder. Not only is the concentrated powder formula gentle for daily use, it offers 50 per cent additional volume that will last up to 72 hours! Plus, it’s better for the planet as it requires less water consumption and provides more uses than a liquid shampoo, which reduces plastic usage. The powder-to-lather shampoo contains caffeine for scalp stimulation and lift at the roots, and tapioca starch to expand the cuticle and add fullness, while the powder-to-crème conditioner contains collagen to add shine and increase elasticity for longlasting styles. Added bonus: It’s colour safe and formulated without preservatives, silicones or sulfates!
➣ S CA L P CA R E , R E I M AG I N E D
Cleanse and calm your client’s hair and scalp with Wella’s new Elements line. Do you have clients with scalp concerns and irritation? Wella Professionals has relaunched Elements, their most gentle haircare line, which specifically focuses on the well-being of the hair and scalp. Divided into two categories: Renewing (for shine, smoothness and protection from heat and mechanical stressors) and Purifying (to cleanse oily scalps by absorbing excess sebum while promoting root volume), all Elements products are formulated with up to 99 per cent naturally derived ingredients and are free of silicones, sulfates and animal-derived ingredients. Plus, they’re recyclable and made with 100 per cent post-consumer recycled plastic! The line's Renewing Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask are also available in recyclable pouches that use 72 per cent less plastic per mL (compared to the line’s bottles, tubes and jars). And that’s not all! There’s a brand-new product being released: Pre-Shampoo Mask. Made from Kaolin clay, it helps calm, cleanse and rebalance the scalp by removing excess sebum. It’s also pH compatible and suitable for all hair types.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 23
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Carefree Colour
Hairlines — NEWS
Take the guesswork out of colour applications with the LG CHI Color Master Factory. This new colour-dispensing machine is designed to give you endless colour formulations while saving you time by dispensing colour in less than two minutes. Plus, it will allow you to show your clients what their colour will look like before application! The Color Master Factory uses CHI Colour Canisters, which are available in semi, demi and permanent colour, and developer. It also pairs with the LG CHI Color Master app, so stylists can formulate from anywhere in the salon. You can give each of their clients a profile, which saves records of formulations and will help manage and track clients by stylist. In addition to making colouring easier, the Color Master Factory is environmentally friendly and helps with waste reduction caused by overmixing and reduces packaging waste in salons. Available in three kits—the starter kit, the master kit and the stylist kit— the Color Master Factory will make colouring hair easier than ever.
Restore hair to its healthy and hydrated glory with Alterna’s My Hair. My Canvas. Cool Hydrations Nourishing Masque.
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Scent For You Keep your clients coming back for more with Authentic Beauty Concept’s Eau de Toilette. Known for its vegan products that create a holistic haircare experience, Authentic Beauty Concept is launching its first Eau de Toilette for skin and hair. With carefully blended notes of fresh linen, white flowers and powdery violet—reminiscent of the brand’s signature scent found in its styling range—the new Eau de Toilette is sure to give your clients an experience they will remember when they leave your chair. The fact that it comes in a 25 per cent recycled glass bottle and carbon-neutral packaging only adds to its appeal. 24 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
Looking to rejuvenate your clients’ hair after a long, dry winter? With ingredients such as desert fruit blend, water lily extract and vegan botanical caviar, this vegan masque transforms strands so they look healthier and smoother from root to tip. In addition to reducing breakage, frizz and static, it’s designed to enhance natural hair texture so your clients can feel more confident and ready to take on the day.
New Position Henkel Canada has appointed Brian Ahrens as their new director of sales for Joico, Zotos Professional, Authentic Beauty Concept and STMNT. With more than 35 years of professional beauty experience, Ahrens has a solid background in sales, marketing and education. He’s worked closely with salons and distributors in his senior management, sales and leadership positions at Aveda, Goldwell and most recently at Revlon Professional Brands North America. In his new role, Ahrens will report directly to Amanda Belasco, vice president of Henkel Beauty Care – Joico, Zotos & Specialty Brands.
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE: FAROUK SYSTEMS, MYDENTITY, KÉRASTASE, HENKEL CANADA, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, ALTERNA HAIRCARE
H Y D R AT I O N S TAT I O N
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Straight Shooter Give clients the vibrant colour they’re looking for with #mydentity’s Direct Dyes new shades. These four new shades include two Vibrant Pastel colours (Loverboy and Heartbreaker), as well as two Super Power colours (Titanium Shield and Night Warrior) that offer extremely pigmented shades with minimal fade. Lasting up to 25 shampoos (or up to 30 shampoos for Super Power shades), they’re perfect for helping your clients embrace their alter egos this season!
COLOUR CONFIDENCE
Care for colourtreated hair with Kérastase’s Chroma Absolu. Designed with a skincare-inspired approach, Chroma Absolu is the brand’s latest innovation to maintain and support the health of the hair fibre from the inside out. The acidic range is formulated with centella asiatica, amino acids, lactic acid and tartaric acid to protect hair’s integrity from harsh elements, including frequent colour services. The result? Enhanced protection, strength, shine and a frizz-free finish. ALSO INCLUDES TWO IN-SALON EXCLUSIVE FUSIO-DOSE POSTCOLOUR INTENSE CARING CONCENTRATE AND HIGH ACID RESURFACING BOOSTER FOR SENSITIZED OR DAMAGED HAIR!
salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 25
Hairlines — NAILS
FA S H I O N W E E K N A I L L O O K S
B E R RY P E R I
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ORLY Bask in the beauty of simplicity this spring with Provence At Dusk, a dazzling lavender shimmer from the Impressions collection.
OPI Get ready to play with N00Berry, a fun and vibrant shade from the gaminginspired OPI x Xbox collection.
Gelish Get ready to be enchanted with I Lilac What I’m Seeing, a fresh floral hue from the Full Bloom collection. 8
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Take a look at these bold nail looks from the spring/summer 2022 runways and get inspired to add a creative spin to your clients’ manicures this season. 1 Sylvie Macmillan used CND products to create edgy, hot pink and beige chrome nails for the KNWLS show at London Fashion Week (LFW). 2 Ama Quashie added a playful touch for Simone Rocha’s show at LFW, adding letters to spell out the phrase, “I want to brush her hair.” 3 For the Markarian show at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Gina Edwards designed accent nails with bejewelled hearts to add some whimsy to classic pastel pink. 4 Yukie Natori spiced up a classic French manicure by adding a black tip to a nude base for LaQuan Smith’s show at NYFW. 5 Graphic nails by Jin Soon Choi at Peter Do’s 26 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
show at NYFW included dark squiggly lines and abstract shapes on a nude base. 6 Animal prints stole the show at Rodarte at NYFW, courtesy of Julie Kandalec, who created monochromatic zebra stripes. 7 At the Kim Shui Studio show in New York, Narina Chan created long tips in a gorgeous jade hue with metallic gold flakes. 8 Mei Kawajiri added fun black daisy designs to square pale pink nails at NYFW for the Sandy Liang show. 9 Alicia Torello used OPI products to create colourful, ’70s-inspired manicures, complete with French tips and half-moon designs for Alice + Olivia’s show in New York.
Bio Sculpture Lowanna from The Dreamtime collection, a magical lilac glitter shade, is the perfect springtime colour for any occasion.
CND Transition your clients’ nails into spring with Violet Rays, a rich and deep purple that’s sure to turn heads.
PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, ORLY, OPI, GELISH, BIO SCULPTURE, CND
Fashion Week Favourites
TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE TRENDIEST HAIR LOOKS FROM THE RUNWAYS, AND LEARN WHICH PRODUCTS CAN HELP YOU RECREATE THEM.
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Hairlines — TREND REPORT
New York Fashion Week: Spring/Summer 2022 French Flair R+Co Skyline Dry Shampoo Powder At Moschino, vintage and ’90s-inspired looks were created by celebrity hairstylist Danilo Dixon, who styled the models’ hair into messy French twists and bouffants to complement the brand’s latest collection. Dixon used R+Co’s Skyline Dry Shampoo Powder to help create the exaggerated height and volume.
Beauty of Texture amika Un.Done Volume and Matte Texture Spray For the Monse show, it was all about embracing the models’ natural textures. Naeemah Lafond, amika’s global artistic director, used the brand’s Un.Done Volume and Matte Texture Spray to add instant lift while enhancing the models’ natural curl patterns.
28 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
Oribe Curl Gloss Hydrate & Hold The “wet” hair look continues to dominate on the runway, including at the Private Policy show. Hairstylist and Oribe educator Kien Hoang wanted to make the models look like they stepped out of the shower, creating a hard shell and super glossy texture. He used Oribe’s Curl Gloss Hydrate & Hold, a lightweight gel to moisturize the hair and give it a high-gloss finish.
TEXT: LEEN BLAIBLEH, PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): INSTAGRAM, R+CO, MOROCCANOIL, BUMBLE+BUMBLE, GHD, ORIBE, AMIKA
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High Shine
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Galactical Glam Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine To create an out-of-this-world experience for The Blonds show, Moroccanoil’s artistic director Kevin Hughes used the brand’s Glimmer Shine to finish the low-twisted bun (seen here on special guest model, Gigi Gorgeous) and create a high-gloss, futuristic vibe that paired well with the designer’s eclectic collection.
ghd Helios Hair Dryer and Diffuser From a mix of bright and muted hues to ornate patterns and ultra-feminine silhouettes, Rodarte made a splash with their spring/summer show. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert created individual styles to highlight the uniqueness of every model’s look. While the show featured a range of styles from straight and sleek to textured waves, it was the straight/wavy hybrid that caught our eye. Gilbert used ghd’s Helios Hair Dryer and Diffuser to blow-dry and encourage an undone wave, adding softness that highlighted each model’s natural beauty.
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Hybrid Approach
’70s Show Bumble and bumble Invisible Oil UV Protective Dry Oil Finishing Spray
Retro silhouettes were all over Fashion Week! For the Ulla Johnson show, it was all about ’70s boho-chic to complement the models’ natural hair textures. Hairstylist Bob Recine used Bumble and bumble Invisible Oil UV Protective Dry Oil Finishing Spray to hydrate and tame frizz.
salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 29
FROM THE BIXIE TO Y2K-INSPIRED COIFS, WE CHATTED WITH THE EXPERTS ABOUT THE TOP HAIR TRENDS FOR 2022.
A Year in Preview Since the start of the pandemic, it’s become obvious that longer, low-maintenance haircuts continue to be in high demand. However, it looks like the tide may finally be turning. According to experts, the shag and mullet, along with shorter crops and buzzcuts, are here to stay. “Due to the pandemic, people are staying in more so they prefer a hairstyle that’s effortless and can grow out nicely. That’s why the shag and mullet styles are more popular now,” says Wan Wu, a barber at Tommy Gun’s Original Barbershop in Burnaby, B.C. “I think it’s important to give the client a hairstyle that can grow out nicely if they can’t come back as often.”
Taking It Back
Kristin Rankin, hairstylist and owner of Fox & Jane Salon in Toronto, says more people are seeking out hairstyles with a lot of texture and different lengths. “I really think that we’re right into the thick of the ’90s at the moment, especially with TV shows like Stranger Things or Yellowjackets,” says Rankin. “I don't think that’s going to go away, but I do believe that different lengths are absolutely all on point right now. You could have a super short, baby mullet or outgrown pixie, or you could have a long shag. I think anything goes. What I’m noticing is a lot of movement, messy ’90s hair, especially with curls. I think curls and natural-looking hair are so hot right now and I don’t see that going away anytime soon.” According to MJ Deziel, creative director and founder of APART studio based in Montreal, there’s been a rising demand among Gen Z girls wanting to try shorter hairstyles and boys going for longer cuts. “I remember a few years back it was all about balayage and long blonde hair,” says Deziel. “It’s quite a statement when the mainstream girl that used to do balayage suddenly wants to try more in terms of cutting. It tells me that people are willing to be open and try to express themselves through 30 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
their hair more. So I don’t think there is one specific haircut that’s coming back, but obviously there is a ’90s feel and we’re very much embracing the Y2K aesthetic.” Since ’90s and Y2K styles are all about embracing more natural hair textures, there’s a lot more movement and volume. With that said, knowing what hairstyles, products and routines to recommend requires a thorough consultation that dives deep into the client’s lifestyle. “I need to know who my clients are and what they like and dislike about their hair,” says Deziel, who recommends asking questions such as “What is your lifestyle like?” “Do you style your hair in the morning?” and “What products do you use?” These inquiries will help determine whether the hairstyle the client is requesting will suit their daily routine. Rankin says it’s important to remind clients when they should come back to the salon for the simple reason that if a client wants to achieve a certain look, they need to be dedicated to recreating the original shape they’re going for. “One of the things that we never did in this industry 20 years ago was educate our clients on their own hair,” says Rankin. “In the last five years, especially with social media, it’s become a huge trend to make sure you’re educating your clients on everything from the price they’re paying to what it takes for their hair to look a certain way. I’ve had so many clients sit in my chair and say ‘I want this haircut but I don’t want to do the work.’ And I always say, ‘I can give you this haircut, but if you don’t do the work on a daily basis, it’s never going to look that way.’ I try to educate my clients as much as possible because I never want a client leaving my chair with hair they loved when they were in the salon, but now they don’t like it because they don’t know how to do it.”
PRO TIP FOR STYLING, USING A SEA SALT SPRAY FOLLOWED BY A DIFFUSER WILL HIGHLIGHT THE NATURAL TEXTURE OF THE CLIENT’S HAIR.
TEXT: LEEN BLAIBLEH, PHOTOS: HAIR: PIERRE GINSBURG FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL, MAKEUP: JULIETTE ROUTIER, PHOTO: JORIS GONIN FOR PRIVILÈGE COIFFURE, SPRAY BY KOMKRIT NOENPOEMPISUT FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM
Hairlines — SHORTCUTS
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Hybrid Approach
As salons continue to remain open across the country, shorter hairstyles are becoming more requested—so much so that we’re now being introduced to the “bixie,” which combines two of the most popular short hairstyles: the bob and pixie. According to Deziel, the bixie is on its way to becoming the next classic hairstyle. “It’s a onelength haircut that’s highly textured with a bit of face-framing fixture on top,” she says. “It’s more like a long pixie. There’s a lot of strong shapes and a lot of work done, with more texture and more work put into the shape of the silhouette in comparison to a precision cut. It requires a bit more maintenance in terms of the frequency of visits to the salon because you will lose the shape after two months.” “When there’s a fringe factor, it’s going to require even more maintenance,” Deziel adds. “When the layers on top are not on top anymore and they’re falling on the side, for instance, that changes the whole haircut. As soon as you step into layering and shorter haircuts, you engage in some maintenance.” To create the bixie, Rankin suggests using a razor to add texture and give the haircut more movement and versatility. “Razor cuts grow out beautifully. Traditionally, people might say you have to get this cut after eight to 10 weeks, but I think that it could last a little longer—anywhere from 10 to 12 weeks. Then the client would have to come back for a bit of length removal and reshaping.” The bixie is considered to be a more versatile hairstyle because of the different ways it can be cut. “I think any gender—regardless of how you identify—could wear this haircut,” says Rankin. “I think it’s very androgynous looking and I truly believe haircuts have no gender. Anybody should be able to wear anything, but I could see how this would really work for anyone. It flatters a lot of different face shapes.”
Power of the Perm For those looking to enhance or add texture, the modern perm is a great solution.
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The modern perm keeps the sides short and has a lot of body and texture in the curls on top. With multiple variations, such as with a fringe, drop fade or comb-over, the options are endless.
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According to Wu, who was the 2021 Canadian winner of American Crew’s All-Star Challenge, more men with straight hair are becoming interested in perms. “It’s because they’ve always had straight hair and if they want to get wavy or curly hair, they have to use styling tools. But after they get a perm, it could last for months. It will do less damage to their hair than heat styling it every day, and it saves them a lot of styling time in the morning, too.”
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While the perm still requires regular visits to the salon to maintain, there’s a lower commitment when it comes to styling at home, as only certain products are needed to enhance texture. In fact, Wu says a lot of men are learning how to style curly (or permed) hair from watching videos on TikTok!
salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 31
Hairlines — COLOUR
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GET INSPIRED BY THE PANTONE COLOR OF THE YEAR, VERY PERI, WITH EXPERT TIPS ON THE VERSATILITY OF THIS BLUE-VIOLET SHADE.
Peri-dise Roses are red, violets are blue. For 2022’s Pantone Color of the Year—Very Peri— it’s the combination of blue and violetred undertones that make this shade so unique. “I like it because it’s a very soothing tone,” says Alex Coughlan, an Edmonton-based colourist and member of Schwarzkopf Professional’s #SKPCanSquad. “I feel like we’re moving away from neons now and getting back to more of those calming, placid colours.” Muted vs. Saturated Since Very Peri can be worn as a pastel or a more noticeably vibrant shade (or somewhere in between), it already makes it more wearable than some of Pantone’s previous colours. Plus, it’s a cooler tone, which seems to be making a comeback after the last couple of years of warmer hues. “I like that it’s really flattering for most skin tones; a lot of people can pull it off. It’s soft but still makes a statement,” says Regan Wasson, an Ottawa-based colourist and the 2021 winner of Wella’s Canadian TrendVision Color Artist. “It looks really good with very pale skin tones, which can often struggle with pulling off vivid colours, but this one works really well because it’s such a cool tone.”
When determining the shade’s vibrancy, a thorough consultation to discuss your client’s lifestyle, commitment level and maintenance plan is key. “Lifestyle is a huge one; not everyone can walk around with a vibrant head of hair, so that’s when I’ll recommend a more pastel shade,” says Coughlan. “It won’t necessarily last more than four weeks, but purple pastels fade out beautifully and almost neutralize the hair as it fades because they have those cancelling undertones.” “It’s important to relay the message of maintenance to your clients during the consultation,” adds Alann Sluser, creative artist for Oligo Professionnel. “You need to help them understand that this colour doesn’t have the best longevity so there’s a little bit of maintenance required. They’re going to want to get it toned and refreshed a bit more often in order to keep it at that optimal colour reflect.” All in the Technique Whether it’s an all-over colour, balayage, money piece or even a bold colour-block, Very Peri can be used in a multitude of ways to suit your client’s lifestyle, budget and commitment level. “I’m a big fan of ‘less is more’ with pops of this colour,” says Wasson. “It contrasts nicely with darker colours;
“WITH EVERYTHING HAPPENING IN THE WORLD, WE JUST NEED A LITTLE BIT OF FUN AND THIS COLOUR BRINGS A WHIMSICAL FEEL TO THE HAIR.” — ALANN SLUSER, CREATIVE ARTIST FOR OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL
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PRO TIP CLIENTS SHOULD EXPECT TO RETURN TO THE SALON EVERY FOUR TO SIX WEEKS (OR IN BETWEEN THEIR REGULAR APPOINTMENTS) TO REFRESH THEIR COLOUR.
leaving in natural depth so it really pops in comparison. If they’re a natural level three, you’re probably not going to get the whole head to the level you need it to be, so it’s better to focus on little pieces. You just need to make sure you get those small areas as light as they need to be.” “It could just be some soft pieces underneath their natural tone or a pop in the regrowth area,” adds Sluser, who says she’ll also consider adding in extensions to give the client more of a feel for the tone without a full commitment. For something a bit more prominent in the hair, consider adding a money piece or a ‘halo’ (the highlighting technique of adding face-framing pieces to brighten up the face) for a fun pop of colour. “I’ve been a big fan of this lately. You apply it all around the hairline and underneath so it’s covered,” says Wasson. “You can add in a money piece with root smudges to have a little bit of that colour in there,” adds Sluser. “I have clients with grey or white hair and we’ll incorporate a little bit of it at their regrowth line, just to add a touch of that hue in there.” For something
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: AIR: ANDREW SMITH, ANDREW SMITH SALONS, U.K., MAKEUP: LOUISE LEREGO, WARDROBE STYLING: MAGDALENA JACOBS, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES, HAIR: SAFY BURTON, SAFY B'S SALON, U.K., MAKEUP: OLIVIA TODD, PHOTO: DAVID GREENSMITH, DIARY BY ASTOE FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, GETTY STOCK, DROPPER BY AGNI FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM
more impactful, Sluser says colourblocking techniques are a great option and perfect for shades like Very Peri. Regardless of whether your client prefers an all-over colour application or to dabble into the trend with smaller pieces, it’s important to make sure you’re lightening the hair to the appropriate level—a level nine or 10—and toning to make sure you neutralize all warmth before applying your colour.
“Whenever I’m lightening to achieve these types of tones, I actually will lighten to a pale-yellow underlying pigment, then tone out whatever yellow is left in the hair before toning it to Very Peri. I pre-tone to tone,” says Sluser. “I just want to make sure there’s no yellow that could absorb some of that violet pigment in there. Instead of it being the beautiful tone you’re looking for, it could reflect flat.” When lightening, Sluser recommends taking very small sections and making sure that the hair is fully saturated with lightener. “When I'm trying to create these ultra-light levels in the hair in order to tone, I’m very careful with my mixing ratio of my lighteners, just to make sure that I’m keeping it consistent as I move through the head,” she says. “If I’m doing a full head, I will sometimes mix a new batch five times. I mix small batches, but they’re mixed more often to keep the lightener levels consistent.” While lightening is a key component of creating Very Peri colour, toning is even more important. “If you put this colour directly on lightened—yellow—hair, it’s going to affect the result of that colour because you still have yellow in the hair,” says Wasson. “Or if the hair is orange, you’ll end up with green hair because you’re putting blue on top of orange. The base of your colour should be a clean colour. It’s like when you paint—you need a white wall.”
DID YOU KNOW? For the first time ever in Pantone’s Color of the Year history, the colour company created a brandnew shade that “reflects the global innovation and transformation taking place.”
PRO TIP TO HELP CLIENTS MAINTAIN THIS COLOUR, CONSIDER ADDING DIRECT DYES TO YOUR TAKE-HOME CONDITIONER TO HELP PRESERVE THE HAIR’S VIBRANCY AND SHINE.
PRODUCT PICKS
Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID Intense Bonding Color Masks These semipermanent, mix-andtone colour masks are customizable and can be diluted with the brand’s Clear Bonding Mask for pastel hues.
Wella Color Fresh Create These bold semipermanent colours can be used to create vibrant tones or muted with their Tomorrow Clear.
Oligo Calura Luxuriant Violet Series This double-violet permanent colour range is available in four bold tones for bright and cool tonality.
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MENTORING MATTERS Helping your team grow their skill sets may take time (and patience!) but the process can reap many rewards. Learn how these expert mentors share their knowledge to build their teams and business. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
For most hairstylists, the time between graduating beauty school and working on their first client is instrumental in helping build technical skills and confidence that paves the way for a successful and long-lasting career. However, depending on which salon they choose to join after beauty school, some may feel like they’re either being thrown into the industry too fast or stuck doing mundane tasks without the proper guidance to help develop their skills. “It’s a really tough industry to start out in,” says Heidi Kenney, a Contessa-winning colourist and owner of Heidi Kenney Hair Studio & Spa in Yarmouth, N.S. “The fact that you do a year or two of school and often come out making just a little more than 34 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
minimum wage is part of the challenge. You have the opportunity to make a lot of money in this industry, so when I speak to students in beauty school, the number one thing I tell them is that no matter if it’s less pay, go with the salon that’s going to give you the best mentor.”
Kenney says she can relate to many hairstylists who struggle to find the mentorship they’re looking for as she vividly recalls searching for one when she was first entering the industry. “I didn’t start off in my first job having good mentorship, so I was messing up a lot and that’s why I really believe that education and who you surround yourself with are so important,” she says. “I would suggest new hairstylists get in the habit of seeking out mentors because it’s something I still do. I continually travel and sit in with people who have been my mentors, and regularly ask for their help and opinions. I think it’s something we always have to be searching out.” “When I was young, I was looking for people to inspire me and help me get to the next level,” says Edwin Johnston, multi-award-winning owner of Cutting Room Creative in Nanaimo, B.C., and KMS global art team member. “A lot of times, you have to go out yourself and look for it.”
PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, PHONE BY CLICKHAN FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM
Starting Strong
Did you know?
Sharing is Caring
PRO TIP EVEN IF THE SALON YOU’RE INTERESTED IN IS NOT HIRING (OR OFFERING APPRENTICESHIPS), CONSIDER REACHING OUT ANYWAY TO EXPRESS YOUR INTEREST AND INCREASE YOUR CHANCES OF HAVING THEM CONTACT YOU WHEN ANY OPPORTUNITIES BECOME AVAILABLE.
Johnston works with his wife Fiona to mentor their salon team. They have a training program all employees must complete within one year (most complete it within six months) before they can work their way onto the floor to cut or colour hair. “Everything we do is about training and mentoring our team,” he says. “Our cutting system has 14 techniques, and each person gets a demo, a hands-on component and
In addition to offering mentoring for in-salon skills, many salons (including Benoît’s, Kenney’s, Johnston’s and Taylor’s) offer mentorship for photo shoots and the Contessa Awards!
they test out what they’ve learned on their own model. We cover all three learning styles of watching, listening and doing. Then, they graduate to the next technique. If they don’t, they redo it and then catch up with the rest of the group. It’s not easy, but the whole idea is to elevate their skill set and mindset to build them up so
“MENTORING HAS ALWAYS BEEN INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT, BUT IT’S EVEN MORE SO NOW BECAUSE IT PROVIDES A SENSE OF COMMUNITY. HAVING A SENSE OF PURPOSE AND MOVING FORWARD WITH TRAINING AND EDUCATION PROVIDES OUR TEAM WITH A SENSE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT AND GROWTH.” — CHAD TAYLOR, CO-OWNER, MOODS HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER
that when they’re working on clients, they can be successful in retaining them and growing their business.” “It’s about wanting people to be successful when they do that first haircut on a client and helping them have a good experience,” he adds. “Otherwise, they’re going to get frustrated and drop out of the industry, which can happen, unfortunately. It’s about how you motivate them every day, keep them interested and offer them more mentorship opportunities; teaching them skills and then trusting that they’re going to be able to grow and help retain the people that come into your business.” At Moods Hair Salon in Vancouver, co-owner Chad Taylor also has a mentorship program geared not only toward their apprentices, but also to stylists and management. “We encourage mentorship at all levels to create a consistent culture for our team and guests,” he says. “Having a system of mentorship creates a culture of learning and growth, and attracts like-minded humans to our team. It’s been an important way for us to recruit and retain staff over the years.” “We’ve developed an education program with weekly classes on live models to support the learning of our apprentices so they’re building their skills and progressing into their careers,” adds Taylor. “We take the foundational skills that they already have and build on them. For any new stylist who joins our team— regardless of their experience in the industry—we offer six months of custom classes to cultivate the skills that define a ‘Moods’ stylist.” At Kenney’s salon, new hairstylists will work alongside her for three ➤ salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 35
— HEIDI KENNEY, OWNER, HEIDI KENNEY HAIR STUDIO & SPA, YARMOUTH, N.S.
months to watch and assist in everything from shampooing clients to foiling to blowdrying. “I don’t have a set program, but I have certain milestones for them to achieve,” she says. “They may want me to formulate everything for them for the first little while but when I know they can do it, I’ll ask them to come to me with their colour formula if they’re unsure and then I’ll approve it or maybe add to it, instead of always giving them all the answers. It’s about making them think for themselves
while hoping that you’ve provided them with the lessons they need to be able to make the right decisions.”
Leading by Example
For Daniel Benoît, master hairstylist and co-owner of Montreal-based Salon Pure, not only does he help mentor his staff, but he also teaches classes outside of the salon. “I’m teaching classes almost every weekend,” he says. “Sometimes I’ll have 10 people or just one person—it depends on what they want. I love teaching; this is my
expertise. I’m really lucky—I have some people who’ve been seeing me every six months for 25 years. It makes me really happy to see that.” When you’re teaching for as long as Benoît has been, he says it’s important to continue to elevate your own craft as well. “If I were to just teach the same techniques every time, people won’t pay,” he says. “I don’t believe somebody that just works behind the chair can teach without learning something new, so I’m pushing myself to learn something new every season.”
Mentoring For Everyone Matrix has launched Mentor.Me For All, a new program that makes education more accessible for both stylists and students across Canada and around the world. Partnering with some of the brand’s top international artists, such as Philip Wolff and Michelle O’Connor, Matrix is offering five two-hour classes via Zoom free of charge and open to everyone, regardless of brand affiliation or skill level. The classes will teach a range of topics, including haircutting, blonding and how to work with a range of hair textures for a diverse and inclusive experience. Best of all, attendees can learn in the comfort of their own home and at their own pace since each class will be recorded and remain viewable to participants after each session. Stay tuned to SalonMagazine.ca for more info.
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“It’s important to bring somebody in who’s really strong to help elevate your team to the next level,” adds Benoît. “Try techniques together! If you really want to teach somebody, you have to learn something new.” For Taylor and his team at Moods Hair Salon, he says they’re always looking for opportunities to bring in mentors and iconic hairstylists to teach their staff. “We find it incredibly inspiring to learn hair skills from them and sometimes, more importantly, how they’re able to facilitate leading their team—either backstage at Fashion Week, at an industry education event or in a more intimate classroom setting,” he says. Taylor also believes that mentoring his team not only benefits them, but him, as well. “I definitely feel that I’ve learned so much from this process. When you have to translate your skill to someone else, it really makes you pay attention to why you approach things a certain way. When I overhear our stylists teaching these same skills to our apprentices, it gives me another perspective and language to explain it in the future.”
PRO TIP FOR OWNERS WHO DON’T WANT (OR CANNOT AFFORD) TO BRING IN SOMEONE INTO THEIR SALON TO TEACH, BENOÎT RECOMMENDS GOING OUT AND LEARNING NEW SKILLS THAT YOU CAN BRING BACK AND TEACH TO YOUR TEAM.
PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, SWISS KNIFE BY FRAN COUTO FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, CONVERSATION BY DAVID KHAI FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM
“IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING YOU’RE GOOD AT, YOU SHOULD BE SHARING IT. IT ELEVATES THE INDUSTRY AND IT’S REALLY REWARDING. MENTORSHIP IS MY WAY OF GIVING BACK.”
Mentoring 101 Here’s what you need to know if you want to start mentoring. “Pre-COVID, we would go to our local beauty school to speak with students and spend the afternoon showing them the different careers hairdressing provides. It’s important to learn how to differentiate yourself from your neighbouring salon, and going in to communicate with these young kids helps.” — Edwin Johnston “If I’m teaching students or a beginner’s class, I don’t want more than eight people per class. I want a smaller group so I can get to know who they are. If they’re more advanced, I can go to 10 or 12 per class but it depends on what they’re looking for.” — Daniel Benoît “For anyone running a salon: If you don't have time to mentor, you should hope that somebody who works for you (or all of your senior stylists) are willing to step in because mentoring elevates the whole industry when everybody works in a solid way and does great work.” — Heidi Kenney “Mentorship requires a commitment from the mentor and the protégé. It’s an opportunity to exchange ideas and learn from each other. Put ego aside and be open to learning new skills and techniques. Think about people who inspired you in your career or life, and what it is about their approach that resonated with you. Mentoring is not just about sharing a skill; it’s about being able to step back and allow your students to adapt this knowledge and make it their own. Mentoring goes beyond hair skills and includes leadership, problem-solving and customer service skills.” — Chad Taylor “Open communication is key. If you don't have communication, it doesn’t matter what systems you have. If you don't communicate daily on how things are going to be, then you're going to fail. You need to have weekly meetings and open communication. People need to know what their expectations are, and when people do a good job, you also need to acknowledge that. There’s nothing better than telling the team about achievements and celebrating them.” — Edwin Johnston
Benefits > Risks
While mentoring can take a lot of time and investment, there’s no doubt that the rewards outweigh the risks. In addition to building your team’s skill sets so they can take on more clients, it can help with client retention, selling take-home products and more. “If you want to grow your business with like-minded people, mentoring is definitely the direction to look at,” suggests Johnston. “It’s like finding diamonds in the rough. It’s a two-way street because the person has to be willing to learn and see things differently. Mentorship is a way of opening up your mind to see different possibilities, whether it’s on how to blowdry, cut hair, talk to people, or recommend and use product. There are so many things you can mentor people about.” Another challenge that newer hairstylists may encounter is how to find new clients and retain them. “Hairdressing is all about networking. Clients don’t just magically show up in your chair. You have to mentor people on how to find clients,
approach someone and hand out your card. That includes helping them with mini scripts so they sound professional and have confidence,” says Johnston. “Some people naturally struggle with this. If you can’t communicate properly and sell yourself, it’s going to be really hard to find people to sit in your chair.” For those who may be looking to shift clients to their staff, mentoring is also a great way to ensure a smooth transition. “Making sure that my stylists are well-mentored means that I have peace of mind when I want to work less behind the chair and pass off clients,” says Kenney. “To
me, it’s worth every minute that you invest in your staff; you’ll reap the benefits with loyal staff, and there’s also a financial reward because the work will be good.” “Clients love to hear you’re an educator as it instills a lot of confidence that you really understand your craft,” adds Taylor. “The other advantage of taking the time to mentor your team on a variety of skills is that stylists will be able to see more clients throughout the day. A lot of the work can be shared with other teammates, which helps keep everyone on time and allows for clients to spend less time in the salon, benefitting everyone.”
What to Look For PRO TIP WHILE MANY NEWER HAIRSTYLISTS MAY THINK SOCIAL MEDIA IS THE GO-TO PLATFORM FOR FINDING NEW CLIENTS, JOHNSTON SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO REMIND THEM THAT HAVING A MORE PERSONAL APPROACH— WHETHER IT’S THROUGH INPERSON MEETINGS, DIRECT OUTREACH VIA EMAIL OR PHONE CALLS, OR CLIENT REFERRALS— CONTINUE TO BE EFFECTIVE WAYS OF BUILDING YOUR CLIENTELE.
In addition to mentoring her own team, Heidi Kenney, who is an educator for Matrix, recently taught a group of 10 hairstylists—ranging from salon owners to booth renters—as part of the brand’s Mentor.Me, a mentoring program for hairstylists and students. Here are her top three tips for those searching for a mentor. Time > Traffic
Be Proactive
Walk Before You Run
“A lot of people will choose more walk-in type salons to start because they’re really good for building clientele; you’re not sitting and waiting for those appointment-only clients. But sometimes those don’t have the best mentoring. You have to decide which direction you want to go in, but I always would tell people to begin by choosing a mentor first.”
“Whether it’s students applying for an apprenticeship or new hairstylists looking for their first job, I always think it’s good to ask, ‘Is there mentorship within the salon?’ When you finish school, you’ve only experienced the tip of the iceberg, so it’s fair to ask that in an interview to know the type of environment you’re walking into.”
“I think a lot of people will finish school and do booth rental or just open a small salon in their home without working under a mentor, and that opens the door to a lot of failures and no resource to help fix them. We’re all going to make mistakes, but having a mentor who can help you deal with problems—and learn to become more confident and try new things in the process—is key.”
salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 37
Dynamic Du From power couples to sibling superstars, we chatted with a few of the industry’s “partners in crime” to find out how working together has helped them succeed both in and out of the salon. BY LEEN BLAIBLEH AND LAUREN FARRUGIA
Blushes, Ottawa Multi-award-winning power couple Silas and Dorothy Tsang have been together for 35 years. After emigrating to Canada from Hong Kong, they worked together at a few salons before deciding to open their own—Blushes—which they’ve been running for more than 20 years. The couple shares their secret to successfully working together and competing alongside (and against) each other.
High School Sweethearts
The couple has been together since 1987 and first met while attending high school in Hong Kong. Now, in addition to running a salon and competing together, they have two grown children (both of which are scientists that have or are working towards their PHDs), who still help with their parents’ photo shoots. “They are both really creative,” says Dorothy. “When we shoot overseas, they often come with us and it’s really helpful having them there.”
Better Together
While the Tsangs maintain a busy schedule in the salon, they always make the time to express their creativity with photo shoots and competing in award competitions, including the Contessas. While they often work on their collections together, they admit that
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they disagree from time to time. “We have different opinions, but we always come to a solution,” says Silas. “Silas is a perfectionist, so sometimes that can cause a lot of arguments. In the end though, you have to let go,” says Dorothy. “If we have a disagreement, we leave it at the salon and don’t bring it home.” “Silas does the haircutting and I do the colour, so I let him take the lead as I really enjoy supporting him,” she adds. “Communication with your partner, as well as trust and respect, are very important.”
Opposites Attract
As for their personalities, Silas has learned to be more even-tempered,
Did you know? Although they’ve both won multiple awards and been in the spotlight for many years, both Silas and Dorothy are very shy and quiet people. When it comes to public speaking and presenting, it doesn’t come easy to the couple.
thanks to his wife. “Dorothy is very easygoing and calm,” he says. “She really cares about people.” Dorothy says she’s learned a lot from her husband over the years, especially when it comes to elevating the craft of hair. “Silas inspired and motivated me to get into the hair industry,” she says. “I like to learn from observation and by asking questions. He’s inspired me a lot.”
“WORKING WITH YOUR PARTNER IS NICE BECAUSE IF THERE’S AN ISSUE OR A PROBLEM, YOU CAN PICK EACH OTHER UP AND HELP EACH OTHER OUT.” — SILAS TSANG
PHOTOS:SILA & DOROTHHY TSANG, MICHAEL LEVINE & LIZ ABREU, DAVID & MARILYN VENDITTELLI
Silas & Dorothy Tsang
os
Michael Levine & Liz Abreu Space Salon, Vancouver Since opening their first salon in 1998, Michael Levine and Liz Abreu have been at it ever since. While they remain busy at work, the couple considers their family and children to be their number one priority. Find out how they’ve managed to find a balance with it all.
Polar Opposites
The couple first met while working together as junior stylists. “Liz has always been a hard worker,” says Levine. “I became a hairdresser for what I perceived to be the career: parties, music and girls telling me I was amazing. I quickly learned there was a lot of work to do before you lived that type of life.” After working together over the years, Levine and Abreu quickly learned that they have very different strengths. “Liz wouldn't tolerate my nonsense, so I learned humility and how to be nice,” says Levine. “I like to be social with Liz when she works, whereas she likes to focus on her client more. I’ve always focused more on creating the
technical systems that our apprentices and students follow, while Liz has always been more about soft skills, retail, upselling services, client care and relationships.”
The Influence
Throughout their careers, the couple has owned a total of 11 hair salons and are preparing to open a new one. While creating a work-life balance hasn’t been easy for them, they’ve managed it together as a team. “We’re always involved in something,” says Levine. “Our relationship was born in the salon environment, so our work and personal lives are intertwined.” In addition to being salon owners, Levine works as an educator and stage artist for Pulp Riot. As such, it’s not often that you’ll find the couple working together in the same salon. “When we are, our team seems to enjoy seeing us together,” says Abreu. “We both bring different things to our team and I think we balance each other really well.”
One of their favourite things about working together is being able to travel for hair shows. Flying, staying in hotels, going to dinners and experiencing the excitement of doing a show together is what they consider their version of going on dates.
“WE’RE PROBABLY EACH OTHER’S BIGGEST CRITICS AND ALSO BIGGEST CHEERLEADERS.” — MICHAEL LEVINE
David & Marilyn Vendittelli Industry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. As award-winning stylists, salon owners and brand educators, David and Marilyn Vendittelli’s journey in the hair industry began more than 20 years ago. Now, as the parents of a pre-teen and teenager, this husband-and-wife duo isn’t letting anything slow them down.
Recipe for Success
David first met Marilyn at a hair show, where she was working as a stylist. At the time, David was working as a model and had a full-time banking job. It was Marilyn’s drive and passion for beauty that motivated him to make a career change. While the couple was skeptical at first about the idea of working together, it’s brought them even closer. “We’ve made it as long as we have because we respect each other,” says Marilyn. “You need to know where you
excel and stay on that path. Respect, communication and knowing when to admit you’re wrong have been the key ingredients to our success.”
Family Values
With European roots, the Vendittellis, who opened Industry Hair & Esthetics in 2016, have a mission of teaching realistic business practices and making both their salon team and clients feel like part of their family. “We’re very family-oriented and we do everything as a team,” says Marilyn. “You aren’t just coming to get your hair done; you’re a part of our culture and family.” From running a business to growing a family to competing in the Contessa Awards, the Vendittellis do it all together. “I can honestly say I cannot do a collection without Marilyn,” says
David. “Being able to work together and see our work published is so rewarding and emotional because we know how much effort goes into it.” “In the salon, we teach what’s kept us busy and successful,” says Marilyn. “We want to share with other stylists and get our younger staff involved. We want our team to be here for a long time, and our goal is to give them a positive professional life that we weren’t necessarily shown at the beginning of our careers.” ➤ salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 39
Julio Rodriguez & Derrick Rutherford Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. It’s America meets Canada for Julio Rodriguez and Derrick Rutherford— salon owners and Matrix educators from Guelph, Ont. The couple opens up about their passion for the beauty industry and what it’s like to work together on a daily basis.
Culture Shock
Before they met, Rutherford was working as a model for hair brands. He quickly became interested in the industry after seeing what went on backstage at hair shows, and decided to go to beauty school. As for Rodriguez, he was working as a makeup artist and colourist in New Jersey when the couple met at a hair show. Once he moved to Canada, they decided to get into business together. Rodriguez says adjusting to Canadian
culture was difficult for him, both in and out of the salon. “Being American and Puerto Rican, coming to Canada and working with someone who is Scottish and English was a learning curve,” he says. “It was culturally different for me because where I come from in New Jersey, I felt like a majority. But when I moved here, I felt like a minority. We communicated a lot and now that I’ve been in the Canadian industry for so long, I couldn’t imagine working in an American salon.” In addition to having different backgrounds, they also have very different personalities. They agree that Rodriguez tends to be a bit harsher while Rutherford has the softer personality. “I tend to have less patience with people, whereas Derrick wants to give someone more
2022 is a big year for the couple. In addition to their plans to continue competing alongside each other, they’re celebrating milestones including their 15th wedding anniversary and the salon’s 35th year in business!
chances,” says Rodriguez. “He’s taught me to be stronger, both personally and professionally. Sometimes you have to stand up for yourself, your ideas and what you want.” “Julio has made me softer and
Tim Kuo & Loretta Tom Salon Haze, Vancouver Salon owners Tim Kuo and Loretta Tom have watched each other grow in both their personal and professional lives. The couple has competed in the Contessa Awards, worked as brand educators and opened up their own salon. Learn how they continue to create a work-life balance while juggling parenting and their careers.
The Journey
While Kuo and Tom first met in 2007 when working in the same salon, they both had very different starts in the industry. Since high school, Tom has enjoyed colouring her friends’ hair while Kuo stumbled across the beauty industry by chance. It was while working as a cook at a sports pub that his family suggested hairstyling as a career option he should consider. After working in several salons together, the couple decided to open their own—Salon Haze—in 2013. “We wanted to create a workplace with our own beliefs and culture—one that was
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fast-paced and fun,” says Kuo. It was a combination of his passion for haircutting and Tom’s ability to create individual looks with hair colour that prompted them to facilitate their own training program at Salon Haze.
Creating a Balance
While they used to spend a majority of their time together at the salon, Kuo and Tom had to adjust their schedules after recently becoming parents. “One of us is at home while the other is at work, and we only have two days a week when we’re both at the salon together,” says Tom. “I think having time apart and spending it individually with our daughter helps create a nice balance.” In addition to being business owners, the couple are also brand educators, and are committed to continually learning. “We’re constantly watching new trends and techniques emerge,” says Kuo. “And our staff is extremely talented, so we learn from each other, as well.”
“WORKING TOGETHER HAS ITS PROS AND CONS. IT’S NICE TO COME HOME AND TALK TO SOMEONE ABOUT YOUR DAY AND HAVE THEM UNDERSTAND EXACTLY HOW YOU FEEL.” — LORETTA TOM
kinder,” adds Rutherford. “He’s taught me to be more relaxed and a lot more empathetic.”
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): JULIO RODRIGUEZ & DERRICK RUTHERFORD, JAMIE MANN, TIM KUO & LORETTA TOM
Early Birds
The couple has now been married for 15 years and has established a routine that allows them to get as much done in a day as possible. “We go for a walk at 6 a.m. each day and debrief about the salon before we go our separate ways for work,” says Rutherford. “We get up early so we have enough time to do everything we need to for work while still being able to have a healthy physical and social life.” They’ve also found it important to set boundaries for themselves and their business. “When we come home, the last thing we want to do is talk about work, so we leave it at the salon,” says Rodriguez. “We need to take the time to decompress and spend time with each other.” Their decision to design their salon so that each of them works on a different floor throughout the day has proven helpful, as well. “I work upstairs with all of the colour, and Derrick works downstairs and does the cutting and styling,” says Rodriguez. “That separation is very helpful because it allows us to concentrate on those specific tasks so we aren’t getting in each other’s way.”
Competition Partners
The individual roles and responsibilities the couple has outlined for each other have been vital to their success when it comes to working on collections together for competitions, including the Contessas. “Julio generally comes up with the concepts of collections because he really enjoys doing that,” says Rutherford. “He also does the clothing and plans out the moods of the collections, along with the colour of the hair. Then, I will cut and style the hair.” Over the course of their relationship, Rodriguez says he believes that competitions have made them even closer. “We’ve created a signature look that works for the both of us. Our strengths and weaknesses work together and we listen to each other. We don’t take criticism from each other personally anymore. We want what’s best for us and the salon.”
Michael Gibson & Calvyn Cass Brush Salon, Vancouver Inspiration, creativity and a passion for beauty are a few things that salon owners and life partners Michael Gibson and Calvyn Cass have in common. Discover how the couple is constantly finding new ways to stay inspired, get creative and prioritize their work and relationship.
Humble Beginnings
Having met on an online dating site 14 years ago, the couple could never have imagined that they’d end up working together. Growing up, Cass enjoyed playing with hair but pursuing a career in the beauty industry never crossed his mind. It was only when his father suggested it that Cass started working toward becoming a hairstylist. In Gibson’s case, the decision to explore a career in beauty came when he was forced to take a step back and evaluate his life after his father’s sudden passing. As for how their salon came to be, the couple had a dream of opening their own space, which came to fruition in 2014, when they opened their first Brush Salon location in Gastown. “We opened it to create an inspiring, inclusive space that not only provides hair services from the city’s best stylists, but a space that fosters an open and ever-evolving community in which our stylists and guests work together to create magic,” says Gibson. “Working together has been amazing, stressful, exhausting and comforting. It took us a few years to find our footing, but I can confidently say we’re in a great place." In 2019, Gibson took over the role of Brush Salon’s general manager and hired three business coaches to assist in the transition. “Michael was able to strengthen our foundation and create sustainable business practices that we’re able to manage effectively,” says Cass. “Our business runs smoothly and the team adores and respects him.”
Inspiration, Art and Design
The couple, who’ve since expanded and opened a second salon location in East Vancouver, adopted a modern minimalist concept for their salon’s design. “We felt each space needed to reflect the feeling of
each neighbourhood,” says Gibson. “The two spaces are the same in many ways, but opposite when it comes to their tonal contrast. We even mirrored the layout as a nod to the exact concept we originally imagined—with our signature ‘girl, roots are for trees’ neon sign, done in my handwriting at the back of each location.” “Michael has an extremely strong eye when it comes to aesthetics and design,” adds Cass. “When Michael sees something he’s inspired by, he takes a photo, while my inspiration comes from fashion, trends, strangers I see out or in film and on TV. I’m constantly on the lookout and when I feel inspired, I take a mental note.” When it comes to managing a worklife balance, their secret is putting their phones down, setting boundaries and enjoying the moment. “We always set up a time to meet and discuss solutions for prioritizing our time between work and home,” says Cass. “We aren’t exactly where we want to be yet, but there’s been a vast improvement and we continually work on this together.” ➤
“WE BELIEVE IN THE POWER OF OPEN COMMUNICATION. IF THERE’S A PROBLEM, ADDRESS IT AND WORK ON A SOLUTION TOGETHER. REMEMBER: YOU’RE ON THE SAME TEAM AND YOU’RE IN THIS TOGETHER.” — MICHAEL GIBSON salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 41
Sibling Showdown Ann-Marie & Pete Goupil Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que.
Work vs. Family Life
As one of four siblings in their family, Ann-Marie decided to get into the hair industry after studying to be a nurse. “Our mom was sick while I was getting into nursing, and it became too emotional for me,” she says. “I knew I wanted to make people feel good, and that’s how I ended up getting into hairdressing.” Pete decided to follow in his sister’s footsteps after always challenging her to do his hair. “I was telling her what I wanted done with my hair and it always ended up being extremely complicated,” he says. “This made me realize that maybe I liked hairdressing more than I thought.” Although they’re used to working in the same salon, the pair has found it important to set boundaries. “We don’t really talk to each other at work because she’s doing her thing and I’m doing mine,” says Pete.
“We’ve always worked across from each other or near each other,” adds Ann-Marie. “I talk a lot and I think Pete enjoys it because he doesn’t have to talk so much to his clients because I entertain everyone.”
Sibling Rivalry
While the Goupils admit that they don’t usually compete with each other, it wasn’t always that way. “We were competitive at the beginning [of our careers] because Pete was a pain in the butt!” says Ann-Marie. “He thought he knew everything better than me, but things changed when he stopped doing women’s hair and I stopped doing men’s hair. The competition was over.” Now, instead of competing against each other, they compete as a team and enjoy entering competitions like the Contessa Awards. “We compete for the salon, so even if we’re in the same category, we help each other out and do things together,” says Ann-Marie. “It’s really a team effort.” “I would consider myself the creative and artistic director when we compete or do a shoot,” adds Pete. “I usually direct and come up with a concept. Ann-Marie decides on the colour based on the vision, and then I do the cutting and styling.”
“COMPETITIONS HELP KEEP A PLACE IN THE INDUSTRY. THEY HELP MAKE SURE THAT OTHER STYLISTS OR BRANDS KNOW YOUR NAME OR YOUR SALON, AND WHAT YOU CAN DO.” — ANN-MARIE GOUPIL
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PHOTOS: ANN-MARIE & PETE GOUPIL, FELICE & TONY VALVANO
People often say you can’t pick your family; however, you can choose to work with them. And that’s exactly what AnnMarie and Pete Goupil decided to do. Now, the brother-and-sister duo work at the same salon that’s co-owned by AnnMarie. They share how they’ve managed to stay close over the years (without getting on each other’s nerves).
Felice & Tony Valvano Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. For some people, the thought of working alongside their brother on a daily basis might cause memories of childhood sibling rivalries to resurface. For Felice and Tony Valvano, however, working together has launched their careers—and those of their growing team—forward. From opening Valvano Salon in 2000 to competing in the Contessa Awards, learn how they keep their sibling and business relationships strong.
Family Business
Felice got started in the beauty industry after college and was inspired by hairstylists who worked on stage and in TV. In fact, it was his fascination with the industry that motivated Tony to follow in his older brother’s footsteps. When Felice worked as a brand educator, Tony worked as his photographer, taking photos and videos backstage. This experience led him to pursue education and explore hairdressing as a full-time career. “We always thought about doing something together,” says Tony. “I always had a bit of an entrepreneurial mindset, so I wanted us to have our own business. It’s been a cool ride ever since.” Growing up with an Italian background, the Valvanos consider family to be their number one priority and aren’t competitive with each other —at least not when it comes to their work. In fact, Felice and Tony will often compliment and root for each other, whether they’re working in the salon, backstage or during competitions. The Valvanos, who were finalists for Canadian Salon Team at the 2021 Contessas, have always seen the benefits of competing. “Competition has always been a big push for me,” says Felice. “In the beginning, the interest was personal, because I wanted to try to achieve different things and it’s just a matter of pushing myself to be better all the time. But as the years passed, we compete to push our team and help guide them.” As a way of putting their unique mark on the industry, in 2005, the brothers launched their own professional haircare line with 23 products. “Our goal is to have our product line distributed in salons all across Canada,” says Tony.
“We feel very passionate about the products we develop, and we want to have a community of hairdressers feel connected to our brand.”
Lights, Camera, Action
While Felice and Tony already have so much on the go, it’s not all business for these two. As a way of staying connected with their clients, they started Coffee Time in 2019, a mini-series on Instagram in which they share daily stories and keep their clients up-to-date about their salon and products. It’s been so well received that they’ve even been able to reach viewers outside of their clientele! “It’s raw, organic and from the heart,” says Felice, who adds that the inspiration for the series came from Seinfeld and the idea of telling stories about normal, everyday life. “We make people laugh, either intentionally or unintentionally.” “It’s very natural and organic. We don’t rehearse at all. We just turn the camera on and away we go,” adds Tony. “When you’re a hairdresser, clients come to you because of who you are. Skill set and technical abilities are important, but it’s also how you treat your clients and the relationship you develop with them.”
“WE BOTH HAVE DIFFERENT STRENGTHS AND LOOK AFTER DIFFERENT AREAS OF THE SALON, SO THERE'S NO COMPETITIVENESS. IT'S THE MOTIVATION AND ENCOURAGEMENT OF EACH OTHER— AND FOR EACH OTHER— THAT HAS ALWAYS DRIVEN US FORWARD.” — FELICE VALVANO
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An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 45
Collections — PURITY
This British collection features an eye-catching range of soft textures and cuts that are effortlessly showcased with warm, rich hues and bold splashes of makeup.
HAIR Karen Thomson, KAM Hair and Body Spa, U.K. MAKEUP Megumi Matsuno WARDROBE STYLING Magdalena Jacobs PHOTOS Jack Eames
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Collections — VERY PERI
Taking inspiration from the Pantone Color of the Year, this British collection demonstrates the versatility of playful violet and lavender tones on a range of deconstructed cuts and textured styles. 48 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
HAIR Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith Salons, U.K. MAKEUP Louise Lerego WARDROBE STYLING Magdalena Jacobs PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 49
Collections — MATERIAL GIRL
Opulent colour and dramatic hairstyling are juxtaposed in this Canadian collection.
CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST
Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton MAKEUP Renee Rampersad PHOTOS Tony Ricci
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Collections — TISCI
This BHAwinning collection captivates with its bold intricacy of colour and soft movement that’s brought to life on a range of hair lengths and shapes. HAIR Siobhan Haug, TONI&GUY, U.K MAKEUP Monnie Kaur WARDROBE STYLING Veronika Greenhill PHOTOS Kevin Luchmun
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Collections — NEW NATURE
Showcasing her avant-garde and editorial hairstyling prowess, Guylaine Martel’s daring collection of extravagant headpieces and striking colour placement (complete with stunning wardrobe styling, courtesy of Pascal & Jeremie) is a breath of fresh air. ➤
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Collections — NEW NATURE HAIR Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. MAKEUP Marika D’Auteuil WARDROBE STYLING Pascal & Jeremie PHOTOS Alain Comtois 56 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
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Working in the industry for 20 years, Justin Rizzuto decided to use his time off during the COVID lockdowns to hone his craft and create a collection that he also photographed. “Shooting my own collection was probably the most difficult thing that I’ve ever done,” he says. “I got a lot more inspired throughout the lockdown because I’ve always been interested in photography and I’ve always shot hair, but throughout that time, I was able to use extensions, doll heads and my camera a lot more.” Inverse Thinking Entering the Alberta Hairstylist category, Rizzuto started planning his collection based on what he wanted to see behind the lens. “A lot of it was done initially by 58 salonmagazine.ca / March 2022
figuring out what I wanted the photo to look like, which allowed me to think of what I wanted the shapes and silhouettes to look like first,” he says, adding that he was inspired by natural texture and used his skills to amplify the hair’s texture and colour. “The idea for the collection was to make sure that number one, you saw hair first, and number two, I didn’t want one aspect to overpower the other aspects. I really wanted to see everything work together.” The Magic of Mentorship Rizzuto is a strong believer in the power of a good mentor. While he’s had many mentors throughout his career, when he started in the industry, he often turned to his uncle, Francesco, who was also a hairdresser as well as a photographer. Francesco, in turn, introduced him to
TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA; PHOTO: HAIR: JUSTIN RIZZUTO, MANE HOUSE OF HAIR, CALGARY, MAKEUP: SARAH STOKES, WARDROBE STYLING & PHOTO: JUSTIN RIZZUTO
Contessa Gallery — 2022 FINALIST, ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST
Justin Rizzuto
the industry that Rizzuto was unaware of. “A true mentor is going to help you go to where you want to go, as opposed to force you to go into their direction,” he says. “You have to understand what an artist goes through from start to finish because there’s no easy way through that. As creative people, we’re living on the edge and that leads to a lot of insecurities, so mentorship can really help you overcome that struggle.” An ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel, Rizzuto says he’s garnered much of his inspiration from French-Canadian hairstylists. “Their finishing ability is a different aesthetic than I was used to,” he says. “I got really inspired by being around that type of personality and skill set.” Rizzuto says he continues to enter competitions because he enjoys pushing himself in different directions, and urges hairstylists who are new to competing to continue to dedicate themselves to growing their abilities. “I think when first competing, it’s about getting over the initial emotional vulnerability,” he says. “Learn how to be comfortable with being uncomfortable. It’s one of the most important aspects of learning.”
“Without mentorship, it would have been very difficult for me to hone my creativity.”
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Profile – TED GIBSON
Shining Star From his work with celebrities to owning the world’s first “smart salon,” Ted Gibson is transforming a lot more than hair these days. Learn how he’s redefining the role of salon owner and hairstylist, all while staying ahead of the curve. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
How did you get your start in the beauty industry? My dad was in the army and we travelled every two or three years, but my mom and dad ended up in the small town of Killeen, Texas, which is pretty much where I grew up before moving to New York, where I lived for over 20 years. I remember as a kid that I always wanted to play with hair, but my dad wasn't really happy with his only son doing anything with hair. I was really into magazines, models and celebrities, but I didn’t really know that it was the direction I was going in. When I decided I wanted to be in the beauty business, I had finished high school and was around 22 or 23. I told a good friend of mine who’s a hairdresser that I was thinking about working in the industry and he encouraged me to do it. The next thing I knew I was in beauty school. I remember picking up a pair of shears and a comb, and how I tingled all the way from the bottom of my feet to the top of my head. I knew I was in the right place; it felt really good and I really loved it.
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You mentioned that you moved around a lot. Did that have any influence on how you viewed hair and the beauty industry? I think it did—the experience of living in Japan, Germany and Hawaii, and seeing the different cultures. I had to leave friends and make new friends over and over, which helped me adjust to circumstances very easily. I think when it relates to beauty, it’s the same thing. When I decided to be a hairdresser, I didn’t want to necessarily be pigeonholed into being a Black hairdresser; I wanted to be a hairdresser that focused on textures of hair and not the colour of skin. It’s always been my platform in knowing that I can bounce from Angelina Jolie to Lupita Nyong’o to Debra Messing to Zoe Saldana to Priyanka Chopra, and the list goes on. It’s really about the technique and texture and not the colour. When it comes to braids or extensions, I think those are more specialties, but I do think that everyone should know how to cut, style and finish textured hair. You’re known for your work on TV, celebrities and Fashion Week. What would you say you most enjoy about your career? I love all of it! It all feeds me in different ways. Working with celebrities—I love the red carpet. I love movies—I’m a big fan of cinema, so being able to work on someone that I see on the big screen is really a joy to me. With clients in
my salon, I love the transformation of someone who may not necessarily feel great, but when she leaves, she feels like a million bucks. I love creating trends, so I think all the years of being backstage at Fashion Week have helped me with that. I think it’s a little bit different now because of social media; it’s really changed the dynamic of everything. I’m grateful for that because it's a huge opportunity to talk to millions of people that you didn’t get a chance to talk to before. Looking back at your career, what would you say was your most lifechanging moment or experience? There were so many! I lived in Minneapolis from 1991 to 1996/1997. I wanted to work for Aveda and I wanted to be famous. Working for Aveda, I remember when I started teaching beauty school—and I taught beauty school for about three years—and Horst [Rechelbacher] asked me to be a global educator for the company. As I became a global educator, which I was for about two more years, Horst asked me to move to New York City, which was a huge turning point for me because I always loved fashion and the whole idea of working in the fashion business, but I didn’t know exactly what that meant. So when I moved to New York City that was a huge life-changing moment because I started doing editorial work and I would do fashion shows in Milan and Paris. I knew that it was a turning point for me to leave Aveda and get into the fashion business. I would do editorials for all the major publications from Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar to Cosmopolitan to Marie Claire. Marie Claire’s fashion director at the time, Lucy Sykes, told me she had an opportunity for a cover with a celebrity. As a fashion hairdresser, I didn’t want to be a celebrity hairdresser, but she said she thought it would be really good for my career. The cover was with Angelina Jolie in London, and Patrick Demarchelier was shooting it. So I flew to London and the next thing I knew, Angie and I hit it off and I worked with her for six years. That’s really what changed my career. Everyone wanted to know who was doing Angie’s hair.
Congratulations to you and your partner, Jason Backe, on your “smart salon,” Starring by Ted Gibson. Tell us about how you came up with the concept. Jason and I have owned three salons previously and we decided to close our last salon in New York because we felt a shift happening in our business and industry. It used to be that you’d cut someone’s hair, go to a retail shelf and put products on the front desk while explaining what you used. What started happening was, as I’m talking to the client, they’re pulling out their phone and already buying the products online. We moved to Los Angeles because we felt what was happening was the whole idea of celebrity was turning into influencers, and the influencers were in L.A. We also wanted a change of pace and a change of lifestyle. We decided to revisit the idea of owning a salon and create a new brand that wasn’t the same old. We knew the salon model hadn’t been updated in a really long time. We knew that chair rental was very hot and it was going to continue to be. The onset of suites was really hot, but we didn’t want a room that was just closed off. That’s how we came up with Starring by Ted Gibson, which opened in 2019 and is the first smart salon in the world, powered by Amazon and Alexa. The reason we decided to go that route is because we wanted to create
Starring by Ted Gibson in Los Angeles features semi-private pods (aka. clouds) that include a range of ambient lighting settings, with personalized music and entertainment options.
something that was thought-provoking and refreshing. We wanted to create this intimate, semi-private experience for each guest. That’s how we came up with the idea of the “clouds.” From each “cloud,” they can shop, change the music, change the lighting, etc. The guest can book their appointment online, just like an Uber ride. A huge component for us was not carrying any retail—it’s all QR codes that take them to Amazon to shop from there. We wanted there to be an intimate experience. You can go anywhere for a great haircut or colour, but what’s your experience going to be like? That’s what I feel people are looking for in the future. We were very fortunate to have you on our Contessa Awards judging panel last year. What was that experience like? I loved the creativity! I think that the Contessa Awards have really brought out some people’s A-game. You can tell that people really wanted to win. You can see the talent brought to the table, which I think is really important. It wasn’t just a beach wave or foil of highlights—it was really greater than that. I love the fact that people were so creative and I think we’re in a time right now where we really need that; the juice and inspiration of thinking about something a little differently, and I think the Contessa Awards definitely encouraged that. I was truly honoured to be a judge and to just see the talent, especially in Canada. People may wonder since Canada is not as big as the U.S., but for it not being as big as the U.S., I would say the talent is extraordinary in Canada! I think competitions are important to get outside of yourself and do something a little bit different, and the Contessa Awards definitely inspire that. What’s next for you? I think Los Angeles and Hollywood have brought up some things inside of me that are a bit different than I ever anticipated. I’m in the process of writing a script that I’m very excited about. I’m working with a writing partner and it’s not a documentary per se; it’s experiences that I’ve had in my life that have to do with people I know. It’s fiction and nonfiction combined, and I think it’s going to be a really incredible story. So I’m exploring different opportunities within myself that aren’t only about hair, but being creative overall, as well. salonmagazine.ca / March 2022 61
Whether you want to teach and motivate new staff or you’re looking to shift clients to free up your time, these expert tips will help build your team and grow your business.
As some salons across the country continue to deal with capacity restrictions and staff working reduced hours, many owners and stylists are getting creative with their bookings. One of the ways they’re accomplishing this is by keeping client flexibility top of mind. For example, if clients are working from home, they may have more availability when it comes to appointment times. They may also be more willing to try a new stylist (especially if your staff is overbooked). With this in mind, some businesses are beginning to refer more of their clientele to other staff. “During both of our closures, it created a massive demand for us hairstylists, which in a bad situation was wonderful,” says Eryn Wall, owner of The Head Room in Paradise, Nfld. “I was overwhelmed with the response of people wanting to get in, so it was a great time for me to start transitioning clients. Now, it’s something that I work on regularly so that clients are comfortable with trying someone else in the salon.”
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Making Connections Another thing that many salon owners and stylists have learned over the course of the pandemic is the importance of maintaining a work-life balance, which means not overworking themselves to accommodate as many clients as possible. “Since I’m a mom, I wasn’t taking on many clients [during the pandemic],” says Véronique Beaupré, owner of local B in Montreal. “Our approach is we’ll match the client with the stylist based on the client’s expectation and budget. It’s not just about asking the client to go to whoever’s chair is free.” As a Contessa award-winning salon owner, master stylist and educator for L’Oréal Professionnel, Beaupré says there continues to be a high demand for her services in the salon. However, she says focusing on bringing out her team’s strengths is one of her main focuses. “I’m good at a lot of things, but not everything,” she says. “Our team members are all different and we’re strong because of that. We could all learn the same things, but for us it’s about having more tools under our belt as a team. I think the retention is better when you properly match the client with the right stylist.” “I always think about personalities,” adds Wall. “If you know a client fairly well, you’ll know who they’re going to jive with on your team.”
Overcoming Obstacles While the idea of transitioning your clientele isn’t new, managing it during a pandemic sure is! In Wall’s case, while her province’s restrictions weren’t as strict as some others in the country, she still needed to implement measures to adhere to social distancing guidelines, including extending the salon’s hours of operation and shifting her staff’s schedules. As a busy salon owner, Wella Top Stylist and national educator for Great Lengths, Wall also continues to maintain a regular schedule in the salon. While she admits that she wasn’t necessarily looking to transition any of her clients to her staff, the opportunity naturally presented itself during the pandemic. “I can’t say I’ve ever looked at my clientele with the intention of transitioning some and not others,” she says. “If I have a full day booked and somebody wants to get in right away or their schedule no longer works with mine, that’s when I'll start recommending other stylists.” “Now, if a new guest calls the salon, unless they specifically request me, then the rule is don’t give them to me,” adds Wall. “We want to build up our other stylists.”
PRO TIP IF THERE’S A SPECIFIC CLIENT OR TYPE OF SERVICE YOU WANT TO BEGIN TRANSITIONING TO YOUR STAFF, WALL RECOMMENDS INCLUDING ANOTHER STYLIST IN YOUR CONSULTATION AND/OR APPOINTMENT TO INTRODUCE THEM TO THE CLIENT AND GET THEM MORE INVOLVED. IT WILL MAKE THE TRANSITION MORE COMFORTABLE FOR EVERYONE.
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK, BALANCE BY AIDEN ICONS FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, BLOCKS BY JAE DEASIGNER FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, PEOPLE BY ALIWIJAYA FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, MAP BY ADRIEN COQUET FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM
Business —
Transitioning Your Clientele
Where To Start Although Beaupré and Wall have different approaches when transitioning clients in their salons, the end goal remains the same: To build their team and business. While a change in availability is often when you may begin thinking about moving clients around to other staff, you may also want to base it on the type of service they’re coming to you for. A prime example is root touch-ups, which are likely easier for a colleague to take over, as opposed to a specific haircut or colour correction. For salon owners and stylists who want to begin transitioning their clients but may not know where to start, Wall says it’s all about communication. “I think the biggest thing is being open and honest with your clients and staff,” says Wall. “Letting them know the reason you may need to be doing this transitioning—whether you’re overbooked or the available times aren’t working. Also, letting both parties know that you’re always there and available for any questions or help is key.” To build a client’s comfort level in working with another stylist, it’s also important to manage their expectations. “Make sure you’re briefing the client on why [you think they’ll be a good fit with a specific member of your team],” says Beaupré. “At our salon, we share clients. If I’m not there, then I want my team to be able to be there for my client. We make a point of having open conversations about colour consultations and getting the best results. I think it’s great to have more minds involved and to work together.” “I always make sure I introduce my client to whoever the staff member would be,” says Wall. “I talk to them about their similarities, experience level and why I feel their level of expertise would match or be very similar to mine. Most of my clientele have been with me for quite a while. Not only do they know me, but many know a lot of my stylists, so it’s easy to start talking to them about perhaps having one of my other stylists take care of them for their next appointment. It helps reassure them.”
“IT’S ALL ABOUT BUILDING THE BUSINESS AND GROWING ALL OF MY OTHER STYLISTS. I ALWAYS TELL MY CLIENTS THAT IF THEY PREFER TO STAY WITH ANYONE ELSE ON MY TEAM— WHETHER IT’S BECAUSE THAT STYLIST HAS MORE TIME OR AVAILABILITY—IT’S COMPLETELY FINE WITH ME. I’M JUST THRILLED TO HAVE THEM STAY WITHIN MY SALON AND BUSINESS, AS OPPOSED TO GOING ELSEWHERE.” — ERYN WALL, OWNER, THE HEAD ROOM, PARADISE, NFLD.
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Interiors — ST-LAURENT TRENDS BY SONIA
So Stylish Take a look inside this Quebec-based salon that offers a unique, creative and luxurious space where clients' needs come first. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF
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For the Love of Beauty When planning the salon’s design, she worked with Agostino De Riggi, owner of ADR Design, to create an Italianinspired look for the space. Arcarone says they were doing renovations on her salon space during the pandemic and although it was to enhance the space she loves, there’s more to it than that. “The remodelling was to motivate my hairstylists to come back and continue to please customers with something positive, which is beauty,” she says. “All the furniture was custom-made by Agostino to fit our vision and together we decided on the gold and purple tones for welcoming luxurious vibes to the salon. The black walls as backdrops make the space feel cozy and inviting for all.” “No Italian space is complete without coffee and wine,” she adds, “which we’ll be offering to our salon guests once COVID-19 restrictions are lifted!”
When asked about her salon’s best features, Arcarone can’t settle on one. “The layout, the visibility and the lighting are some of our strong points,” she says. “I chose a location situated in an upscale area in Quartier DIX30, a commercial lifestyle centre in Brossard, in a corner spot with lots of windows. The placement is great and corporate workers are always around.” Life After Lockdown Life post-lockdown(s) has not been easy for anyone, especially salon owners. “My salon offers stability to stylists,” says Arcarone. “They tend to stay for years, and without a stable team keeping the salon running would be impossible. We need to have fun and enjoy working together. Teamwork and good service are very important to me, and you can see that when you come to my salon.”
PHOTOS: VISIONZ PHOTOGRAPHIE (ZOÉ LEDUC)
As a barber’s daughter and a hairstylist for 25 years, Sonia Arcarone has a good sense of what clients are looking for in a salon experience. As the owner of St-Laurent Trends by Sonia in Brossard, Que.—a space that she calls “fashionable, classic, chic and relaxing”—she uses her passion for beauty to offer guests an elevated salon experience. “Life after the COVID lockdown is different and working is not easy,” says Arcarone. “We need to offer a great experience to people. After all these years, I’m still passionate about serving people and teaching new stylists the joy of hairstyling.”
DETAILS Renovated/reopened in March 2021 DESIGN Agostino De Riggi, ADR Design SPACE 1,700 square feet TEAM 9 hairstylists and 2 receptionists 1 manicure technician and 2 estheticians BRANDS Joico Kevin Murphy L’Oréal Professionnel Moroccanoil Reuzel INSTAGRAM @stlaurenttrendsbysonia WEBSITE trendsbysonia.com
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Salon Social —
Mentoring Milestones Behind every great beauty pro is a mentor who encourages and supports both their personal and professional development. We spoke to a few about their mentors and what they learned from them.
Kateryna Ginga
Mathieu Mainville Montreal @mainvillemathieu
“Having a mentor really pushed my career to a level I would never have reached on my own. I started working at local B salon when I was still in hair school, and I think that Véronique Beaupré (the salon’s owner) saw a lot of potential in me. I mostly learned her techniques by watching her work day after day. She gave me a chair about six months after I was done with school, which was a huge deal for me. She would always push me to do services even when I thought I couldn’t, and it turns out she was right every time, as I would successfully overcome most of my challenges. Her confidence in me gave me the wings that I needed to elevate myself in the craft of hair. Her best move was bringing me to all of the stage shows she would do. One day, out of the blue, she made me come up on the stage so I could explain my process for creating the perfect fade, and it was a revelation. Her support helped directly mold the stylist and educator I am today, and I will never be able to thank her enough.”
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Denise Meikle Vancouver @salonorigins
“One of the many things Michelle Pargee taught me was how to create a vision board [for photo shoots] and how to calm down when things were going sideways. She encouraged me to enter the Contessas for the first time, which led to my win as 2021 Avant Garde Hairstylist. I was also a finalist for 2022 Texture Hairstylist. She continues to inspire me in both hairdressing and in life. Mentoring is so important because I can sometimes get into the mindset of ‘I’m too old for this’ but Michelle continues to give me a different perspective, which then inspires me to try something different and it motivates me to help others who are struggling with similar issues.”
“In 2015, I came to Sassoon Toronto with a background in makeup and wedding hairstyling. I was drawn to the very creative atmosphere, high quality of work and structured education. With mentorship from Tricia McQuillan (the salon’s director), I’ve learned valuable management and communication skills. During my training, I’ve also received a lot of support and guidance from the instructors and creative team. I’m greatly inspired by my colleagues and their incredible work. From the start of my training, I got the opportunity to take part in many photo shoots, hair shows and presentations in various roles—everything from casting models, choosing wardrobes, arranging schedules, presenting on stage, photography and post-production. Currently, I’m working as a stylist and starting my teaching training while managing the salon’s social media. Working at a place like Sassoon, you’re constantly learning and developing your visual and technical skills. We inspire and motivate each other every step of the way.”
PHOTOS: MATHIEU MAINVILLE, DENISE MEIKLE, SASSOON SALON
Toronto @kat.ginga
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