Salon Magazine, May/June 2007 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon MAGAZINE

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

Hair Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

extensions the long and the short of it summer locks serious sun solutions The underground world of basement salons MAY+JUNE 07 $5 WWW.SALON52.CA

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l salon l MAGAZINE

Contents MAY+JUNE 07 W W W. S A LON 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER 32

51 70

SUMMER LOCKS

ON THE COVER Hair: Sandro Zamparini Pop Design Hair Studio Makeup: Stacy Hatzinikolas

COLOUR Serious sun solutions

THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT FEATURE Salon Magazine’s guide to the world of hair extensions

Wardrobe: Costa Photography: David Hou Technique: Hair was put in medium size pin curls and set with PureOlogy spray gel. Once set, hair was shaken lightly.

GOING UNDERGROUND FEATURE The ups and downs of basement salons

FEATURES 62

HARMONIC ICONS

TEEN GEEK

B&W

CUTTING FOR A CAUSE

ISO combines balance with style in the i.con 2007 concept collection

Embrace your inner nerd alonside TONI & GUY

Schwarzkopf Professional salutes diversity

Last call: Join Redken and One X One in the fight against youth poverty

> CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 14

HAIR EXTENSIONS: THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT

FEATURE: SCHWARZKOPF ’S DIVERSTIY COLLECTION 12

salon > may+june 07

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Finished. Take hold of your style. Hold and shine with thermal and colour protection.

800.331.1502 pureology.com ©PureOlogy Research, LLC

Introducing TAKEHOLD ™ Flexible Non-Aerosol Hair Spray.

Longer Lasting Hair Colour GUARANTEED!®

l salon MAGAZINE

REGULARS 18

EDITOR’S LETTER

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

HAIRLINES—The tattoo trend a hit for salons p.22; Photoo tips for your

MEN—Clean up with Father’s Day promos

TRENDS—The latest looks from JPMS, Rush London and Redken

SCENE—Beachwear fashions for the coming season

CONTESSA GALLERY—Edwin Johnston’s Contessa 18 collection

SALON52—May-June line-up

ESTHETICS—Boost business with makeup makeovers

NAILS—Summerlicious Shades; Seasonal Staples;

TANNING—The JCTA’s new web-based community; Doctor supports

PROFILE—Woody Michleb’s west-bound journey

PULSE—Salon Magazine visits the Chicago Midwest Beauty Show

INTERIORS—Salon alon Sugar in Montreal

HOT PRODUCTS

EVENTS

SCOOP

PRESS PASS

105

Contessa 19 entry p.24; Tools of the month p.26; Fun foil from Foil It p.26; Premiere 2007 show turns it up a notch p.27; Pink appliances vs. black appliances p.28; Eva Longoria’s gradual colour transformation p.29; Rudy Pignataro gets jucy in his Fruits ’n Flavour collection p.30

Multi-functional lacquers

sensible UV exposure; Marketing your salon

LAST WORD—by John Steinberg

76 NAILS

86 42 INTERIORS

SCENE

HOT PRODUCTS 14

salon > may+june 07

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The new way to light up the night. Six new shades of Brights by OPI! Available in a choice of displays designed to light up your profit picture! Contact your Authorized OPI Distributor for the option that works best for your merchandising needs.

COUNTER DISPLAY 12 bottles in a compact, eye-catching display.

ACRYLIC COUNTER DISPLAY Holds 36 bottles for easy dispensing.

BABY GRAND DISPLAY As bright as it gets – 144 bottles of Nail Lacquer!

Model is wearing Golden Rules! with My Private Jet on the moons of her nails. Contains no DBP, Toluene, or Formaldehyde. Nail Lacquers feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

1:2007

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, MISSISSAUGA, ON CANADA L4W 4Y4 WWW.SCHWARZKOPF-PROFESSIONAL.CA

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Together. A passion for hair

EDITOR’S LETTER

JUST SHOOT ME

��

elax, I’m talking about photo shoots for Contessa entries. “May and June are prime time for doing Contessa shoots, says Karen Melay from the Hair Factory in St. John’s, Newfoundland—a twotime Contessa winner for Newcomer Hairstylist of the Year, among others. “It gives us time to pore over the images for a while before we submit our entries and decide what categories we will enter. “Our team started our research back in the beginning of the year, to see what’s happening in fashion. We’ve ripped apart all the magazines we can get our hands on,” she adds. “We have hit the fabric stores to see what textures, tones and types of fabric are out there this year, and we go online at style.com to check out all the runway collections from the shows around the world. And we always look at home decor magazines for architectural inspiration.” “I have already named my collection”, says Tony Ricci in Edmonton, this year’s Alberta Hairstylist of the Year. Ricci is inspired by the music industry right now, especially the newer music and all the elements he sees unfolding, from the lyrics to the way the singers dress and wear their hair to the videos they produce. He’s calling his collection Bling. “I always come up with a name first and build from there. Once I decide on the name, it kind of morphs from that initial theme.” Others are inspired by colours in flowers, animals, the forest–the list goes on. Whatever you’re inspiration, you need to get on to selecting the people who will help you compile your collection. Assemble a creative team for the shoot. Interview models, makeup artists, clothing stylists and, most importantly, photographers, and view their portfolios. Discuss your vision. Choosing a photographer who knows about shooting hair is key. Post-production is very important, so go with a photographer who does all the work—post-production as well. Check out the story on page 24 for other tips on successful photo shoots and points to consider. The deadline for entries is August 14, 2007. For entry forms and rules go to salon52.ca. Good luck with your shoot.

��

salon > may+june 07

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTO BABAK

��

A two-step facial for the hands. Available at fine spas and salons. • 760.599.2900 • 800.833.6245 • www.creativenaildesign.com

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 16 issue 7

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

AN EXTENSION OF BEAUTY

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH) Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

Francie Wyland SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Mary Bonnici and Kerry Freek ART ASSISTANT / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com

hen I was a little girl, one of my sisters had this fabulous fake ponytail that I would secretly wear

when she was out. I would pin it on, stand in front of a mirror and sing “These Boots Are Made For Walkin” into a hairbrush. I thought I was a mini-Nancy Sinatra. I’ve never forgotten that feeling of having long hair. And even at that young age I loved how easy it was to pop it on! I never gave long hair much thought until I met David Gold in 1998, the founder of Great Lengths and truly a guru in this category. He took me through the integral process of creating hair extensions and the importance of quality. It was impressive. About five years on, during my annual pilgrimage to the Salon International show in London, I noticed that hair extensions were the hot ticket and there was a huge selection. And going back each year since, I noted that this trend wasn’t going away. In Canada, the extensions business certainly existed, but it seemed it was really for the specialist. Why am I going on about this topic? Today the hair extensions category is taking North America by storm. Anyone who has attended ABA shows in the past few weeks will know it’s hugely popular. Hair of every description is easily accessible and affordable. Whether the client wants it for length, volume or simply a change, it’s available. As in the automobile market, options, costs and quality are broad. Hair extensions may be only part of a subtle trend in our industry toward the beauty professional being able easily and affordably to create any look the client desires. Offering a cut and colour is old news. Poor fingernails? We can enhance them. Short eye lashes? Get out the lash extensions. No brows? Permanent makeup! Dull teeth? We’ll make you sparkle. And that’s just above the shoulders! My point? The salon has the ability to offer clients a wide range of services. Extensions are a hugely profitable one, so be sure to check out our main feature this month on the long and the short of this burgeoning category. Get out of the box and in on the action!

Laura Dunphy Publisher

CONTRIBUTORS

Malumir R. Beavis, Lori Colborne, Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Andrew Mannsbach > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | andrew@beautynet.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905-729-0227 salon@tamicirc.ca ACCOUNTANT

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com PRESIDENT

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604-929-1700 | greg@beautynet.com SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GST included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50USD ADDRE SS CH AN GE S Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

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365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton ON L0G 1A0 Canada

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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Making the Mark A successful salon is almost always a combination of artistic ingenuity and business smarts. According to Patricia Gauthier of the MicroPigmentation Centre in Mississauga, Ontario, permanent makeup and cosmetic treatments attract clients because they add a valuable service to any salon. “The more services you can offer,” says Gauthier, “the more people will want to patronize your business,” Permanent makeup is a big attraction on many levels. Obviously, clients are interested in the convenience that such options as permanent eyeliner, eyebrow enhancement and lipliner can bring them. But cosmetic treatments go beyond that—scars can be tattooed to blend with normal skin, and artificial aureoles can be created to provide the finishing touch on reconstructed breasts after a mastectomy. “For salons, the big advantage is profit,” says Gauthier. “If you have a bed, a lamp and a stool, you only have to invest in a tattooing machine, pigments and, of course, training.” The Micro-Pigmentation Centre offers an intensive five-day course for permanent makeup and cosmetic treatment. “Anyone in the salon can be trained, as long as they have steady hands,” she laughs. Advances in permanent makeup have jumped significantly in the past 10

salon > may+june 07

The tattoo trend a hit for salons years. Services offered by salons have improved dramatically because of better education combined with advances in the quality of pigments and tattooing equipment. And all to their advantage. “Basically, the cost of a permanent makeup treatment for a salon is, on average, $30 per hour,” says Gauthier. “However, the usual charge for this service is $300 per hour, making it a significant return on investment.” Permanent and corrective makeup is not the only form of tattooing making news these days. Decorative or artistic tattoos are no longer relegated to sailors and punk rockers in back-room parlours—everyone from models to bankers is getting in on the act. Black Line Studio, a cutting-edge tattoo boutique in downtown Toronto, has taken the art to a whole new level. While there is one permanent makeup artist on staff, the rest are true artists. “Each tattoo is custom designed,” says owner Ion Nicolae. “Everything is original.” The idea of artistry is definitely emphasized in this upscale business. Original art graces the walls, there is an extensive collection of jewellery, including a selection for body-piercing, plus clothing, accessories and more. “We have guest tattoo artists come in, and special events,” says Nicolae. “Everything is tied into the tattoo culture—it’s a whole art world in itself.” –PF

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HAIR JEFF LOUIS COLOUR AND MAKEUP JEN CHIVERS PHOTOS KLYMENT TAN CONTESSA 18

HAIRLINES

JUNE 3RD, 2007

ONEXONE SPOKESPERSON: MATT DAMON

is a non-profit foundation committed to supporting, preserving and improving the lives of children. Through its annual campaign, ONEXONE is dedicated to helping create a world where children can live safely and with dignity. In 2006, ONEXONE facilitated the distribution of over 1.5 million dollars to Canadian charities and global initiatives. For more information visit www.onexonecampaign.com.

LET'S MAKE A DIFFERENCE, REDKEN, ONEXONE AND YOU! REDKEN & ONEXONE invite you to take part in the biggest Cut-a-Thon in Canadian history to help children in need locally and globally! Do what you love for a great cause and help us raise our goal of $250 000 for ONEXONE. For more information, please call

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA

1.866.9.REDKEN.

HAIRLINES

Straight Shooter Looking to score big with your Contessa 19 entry? Try taking a cue from three-time Contesa 18 winner Frank Dicintio THE MAN WON THREE CONTESSAS LAST YEAR. That’s pretty impressive in and of itself. Now, if you factor in the fact that Frank Dicintio won three of the most coveted Contessa Awards—Canadian Hairstylist, Elite Master Hairstylist and Makeover Colourist—you have to conclude that this Woodbridge, Ontario, stylist knows a thing or two about putting collections together. Using selections from Dicintio’s winning images, we analyze some of the elements that make these photos work. We hope this helps you on your way to creating your own captivating Contessa collection.—MA

A Defined Idea. Dicintio’s collections were based on the idea of diversity. This laid the foundation for his broad use of colour, style and texture. “Diversity” eventually morphed and solidified into “Rainbow,” which not only serves as a name for the body of work but also as a clear unifying idea.

A Good Team.

Consistency Consistency. There is a definite format to these pictures. Bright hair colour is one consistent element; silver clothing is another. Although the photos are not carbon copies of one another, keeping consistent fundamentals organizes Dicintio’s ideas, allowing to viewer to focus on what is important.

Focus.

Simplicity Simplicity. Keeping things simple doesn’t mean you have to hold back on creativity and range. Dicintio certainly shows what his skills are made of in these photos, but he does it with a simple background, coherent colours and clean photography.

salon > may+june 07

The elements in these photos are strong. There’s great photography, makeup, wardrobe, etc. But all these things are designed to make the hair stand out. Photos are cropped tightly and well lit. Makeup is complementary and does not overshadow Dicintio’s work. Sure, Babak could shoot amazingly mysterious, blackand-white photos, but would that allow the hair to stand out? Probably not.

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HAIR FRANK DICINTIO MAKEUP GIANCARLO INTINI PHOTOS BABAK CONTESSA 18

Now, this was a dream team— Babak on photography, Giancarlo Intini on makeup, a beautiful and diverse set of models. Overall, Dicintio’s crew really had it going on. But although the skill set of this ensemble is very, very high, this collection would not be half as good without communication. So pick collaborators who understand you creatively. You want talented people who share your vision and contribute to it.

HAIRLINES

TOOL TIME NAME HAIElite Rod FEATURES > Cone-shaped ceramic rod creates a variety of curls and textures and avoids that “prom hair” look > Ergonomic light-weight design and non-slip grip > Flash heating from .05 seconds, and generates heat evenly through rod > Far infrared heat and negative ion technology leave hair healthy and shiny and lock in colour > Digital heat setting ranging from 170º F to 360º F > Thermal-protected iron rest and tip > Low EMF (electro magnetic field) emissions

NAME Sterling Definitions Trimmer FEATURES > Powerful rotary motor > T-shaped precision blades adjust to zerooverlap > Lightweight and less than 5 inches in length > Includes three cutting guides (1/16-inch to1/4inch), a blade guard, oil, cleaning brush and storage case For more, visit www.wahlpro.com

Stars and d Stripes

Who says foil has to be boring? Framar, Canadian manufacturer of Foil It, professional pre-cut aluminum sheets, sneaks a little more colour into your colour services. By thinking outside the box and printing graphics on its foil—like the starry patterns shown here—Foil It is giving an everyday product a bit of personality. No word on what new patterns are in the making, but we think some skull-and-bones would be awesome.—MA

salon > may+june 07

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FLORIDA HEAT

Premiere 2007 show turns it up a notch

PHOTOS COURTESY PREMIERE SHOW GROUP LM STUDIOS

�� THE ORLANDO/ORANGE COUNTY CONVENTION CENTER will be abuzz June 10 and 11, with some of the hottest and best names in the beauty industry hitting the show floor and the main stage. At the 2007 Premiere Orlando Beauty Show, experienced industry experts and icons share tips, tricks and techniques in hair, nails, day spa and esthetics, massage, makeup, medesthetics and business education with over 45,000 attendees. Boasting instruction by TIGI’s own image-maker extraordinaire, Anthony Mascolo, Alfaparf’s newly acquired international sensation, the Mahogany Artistic Team, and featuring emcee appearances by the one and only Vidal Sassoon, this year’s learning curve is steaming! Other presenters include Nick Arrojo, John Paul Mitchell Systems, Angus Mitchell and Robert Cromeans, Matrix’s Nicholas French, Redken’s Sam Villa, Martin Parsons, and BaBylissPro’s Heather Wenman. They will all be hitting the main stage, bringing their expert techniques and insights with them. This is a great opportunity to combine a fabulous show and training with a getaway for a couple of days. If industry education is important to you, Premiere Orlando is the only show you need to attend this summer! For more information and tickets, contact Premiere Show Group at 800.335.7469, 407.265.3131 or visit www.premiereshows.com.—SP

��

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may+june 07 < salon

HAIRLINES

��

Pink vs Black Pink appliances are cute—there’s no question about that. But how are they selling compared to their black and grey counterparts? Joe Kim, VP of FHI Heat, breaks down the retail trends he’s been noticing at FHI. > From 2005 to 2006, demand for pink appliances increased

by 75%.

> In the FHI Technique Series, pink irons outsell black irons

nearly 3

to 1 among consumers.

> Among stylists, pink irons and black irons sell in

approximately equal numbers.

> In the consumer market, pink hairdryers outsell standard-

colour dryers

2 to 1.

> In the professional market, standard-colour dryers outsell

pink dryers 2

��

to 1.

Although recently there’s been an increase in colour choices, pink remains the most popular non-traditional colour for appliances.

��

salon > may+june 07

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Classic Caramel Eva Longoria’s gradual

colour transformation

ightening deep dark brown hair is a process requiring patience, care and subtlety. If you lighten too much too fast, you’ll likely end up with hard-to-control damage.

PHOTO LONGORIA COURTESY CTV

Lucky for Eva Longoria, she’s got some of the world’s best hairstylists

at her disposal. Once a tanned bombshell with almost-black hair, Longoria has gradually turned into a tanned bombshell with luscious, caramel-colour hair. The success of this subtle makeover lies in the fact that Longoria’s locks still look as bouncy and healthy as ever. So, although it may have taken several months to achieve, this much-admired star of the television hit Desperate Housewives’ new look proves that good things come to those who wait.—MA

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may+june 07 < salon

HAIRLINES

Tropical Punch Contessa winner Rudy Pignataro gets juicy

ometimes highly thematic photo shoots can go totally off the rails. And sometimes playful themes can result in a ton of fun. Here, two-time Contessa winner Rudy Pignataro does the theme thing right by not sacrificing style, substance and skill in does his Fruits ’n Flavour collection. Stirred up on a recent holiday to Aruba, Pignataro’s juicy fruit idea came from observing the luscious drinks served at the resort. By uniting model and prop with coordinating hair, makeup and nail colours, Pignataro’s photos create a total look—one that’s beautiful, sexy and full of personality.—MA

Collection: Fruits ’n Flavour Hair: Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc., Toronto Makeup: Christina Caruana Photos: David Hou

salon > may+june 07

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state of an art

HAIR - genetics made it what it is – Great Lengths perfects it with the technology only the most recognized name in hair extensions can deliver. Add length, volume, colour and style with the most advanced and gentle methods of application, available only through Great Lengths Certified Extension Artists. First quality, 100% human hair strands are available in 35 hand-blended shades plus 14 “fashion” shades. www.hscinternational.com

Upcoming Great Lengths Education Seminars

TORONTO • May 27-28, June 10-11, July 15-16, Sept. 23-24 EDMONTON • May 6-7

MONTREAL • June 24-25, Sept. 9-10

CALGARY • August 26-27 |

HALIFAX • July 29-30

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths Certified Salon Network today by calling HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.

COLOUR

Summer Locks Helping colour clients fight fading and other environmental elements of the season.

16.06.07

salon > may+june 07

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HAIR SANRIZZ INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM, LONDON, ENGLAND PHOTO ANDRES REYNAGA

ith summer about to hit, your clients will be heading out to enjoy the sun and activities at the beach, pool, tennis courts and the links. Along with all these activities come the side effects of environmental damage from the sun’s UVB rays as well as chlorine and salt water, which can wreak havoc on their beautiful coloured locks. The result, as you’ve all seen, is hair that looks very dried, fried and, most disappointingly, faded. Fortunately, manufacturers are now recognizing the unique issues that arise for clients at this time of year and are developing products to combat these problems. You can provide choices for your clients in your retail section, and reap the benefits of helping them. Schwarzkopf has been manufacturing its BC Sun Guardian line for a few years now, featuring a shampoo, a UV protection spray and an after-sun treatment. Specific UV filters in the leave-in UV protection spray protect hair structure and maintain colour brilliance against the external elements. There’s also a travel-size kit for the client who is going on a short getaway weekend at the seaside. Matrix’s limited-edition Biolage Sunsorials are just hitting the Canadian market after a successful launch in the U.S. last summer. The line features a daily UV hair mist to shield against the sun and pool and seawater as well as an after-sun shampoo that removes chlorine and salt without stripping colour, and an indulgent, antioxidant-rich Sun Repair Treatment. Originally developed for beachgoers on Italy’s sundrenched coasts, Biolage Sunsorials hit salons in May. Redken is set to rescue hair and scalp from sun, sea or pool with UV Rescue, a broadband environmental defence for hair. It’s designed for year-round use. An exclusive Interbond Conditioning System and an energizing C2 Solar Complex combat UV damage, dryness and discoloration, leaving hair protected, revitalized and shiny. The line includes an after-sun shampoo and conditioner as well as a leave-in shimmering oil containing gold mica particles for colourrich, high-shine locks. The SolPerfection line from KMS California brings hair back to beautiful while preventing further damage. A shampoo, an all-day defence leave-in spray, an after-sun leave-in crème and a beach protectant spray ensure all bases are covered, from antioxidant and hydrating ingredients to protect and moisturize to UV filters to guard against fading. And Joico chimes in just before press time with K-Pak Sun Therapy, which includes a gentle colour-safe shampoo, a treatment masque and protective sun milk. All contain Joico's exclusive Quadramine Complex and Hydroxy Sun Complex as well as aloe vera and Keratin silicone complex.—SP

smooth infusion

â&#x201E;˘

smooths and softens hair up to 60% Awaken your senses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; visit an Aveda Salon-Spa near you today! aveda.com | 1.866.374.9587

Clean Up

MEN

with Father’s Day Promos

easonal promotions like Father’s Day are the perfect way to boost your sales revenue. A little advance planning and talking to your distributor representatives

To Be Or Not To Be

Clean and Tough

Sports Man

Cut Me a Deal

Home & Away

Intercosmetics is offering 10 per cent off all its RVB Laboratories Be Man products for men. The line includes six products for take-home, including shave and after-shave gels, a cleansing gel, anti-age cream, anti-stress eye gel and sculpted abdominals gel.

Specially priced, 400 ml of Go Clean daily shampoo with 150 ml of Stand Tough extreme-hold gel, plus bonus stylish money clip.

Dikson is offering a 20 per cent discount to salons for Father’s Day promotions on any items in the Erreci Sport for man line, which includes three shampoos, a bath and shower gel, three anti-aging creams and gels and an

American Crew is doing a “Free Gift of Grooming” promotion at participating salons. Fathers (and sons) who purchase a regularpriced haircut or qualifying service receive the 250 ml bottle of Daily Shampoo for free. The promo runs during the week of Father’s Day (June 10 to 17).

Fix Dad’s style with Fix Gel Duo of 500 and 200 ml, from Quantum. Fix Gel provides extreme holding power for styles demanding strong definition, sharp texture and lustre. He purchases the 500 ml and the 200 ml is FREE! One for home and one for on the road.

salon > may+june 07

extra-hold hair gel.

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HAIR SYLVIE AUCLAIR FOR QUANTUM PHOTO BRIAN YPPERCIEL

will help you cash in on this annual opportunity. Here’s what a few manufacturers told us they are offering for promotion this year.—SP

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Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

Summer Sweet

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he creative minds of Aveda artists oversaw the hair and makeup for 29 shows at Olympus Fashion Week in New York last fall when designers unveiled their spring and summer collections for 2007. In the shows featured here, Kevin Ryan was the lead hair guy for Milly and Jon Reyman was the lead for Lisa Thon's show. Here’s a taste of some of the fashion looks you’ll be seeing on or near the beach this summer. S 42

salon > may+june 07

PHOTOS DAN LECCA FOR AVEDA

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

The New Romantics N Edwin Johnston mixes nostalgia and rebellion in his Contessa 18 collection E d i t e d b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

ew romantic was a music and fashion

movement in England in the mid-80s. It wasn’t really punk and it wasn’t really new wave, but somewhere in between. I was a new romantic myself, listening to bands like Depeche Mode, Erasure and the Jesus and Mary Chain. Noticing a kind of rebirth of post-punk movements in young urban people, I decided to recreate the look of this scene. My initial idea was to have my models pose with instruments and stage an 80s band. But as

we began putting the elements together, I felt the instruments became overpowering, taking away from the hair, fashion and makeup. In the final photos, only one model ended up posing with an instrument—the guy holding the guitar (see page 46). The others look like kids arriving at a club, as if they got their photos taken just as they passed coat check. The use of nonprofessional models really helped to create this feel. In adapting the new romantic style and recreating it in today’s terms, I was partly motivated by the fact that our industry is so heavily reliant on a celebrity-driven market. I think that type of hairstyling is too staged, too heavy, taking too much away from our creativity. I really wanted to do something that was more street, a bit trashier, very real and kind of dark. Hair: Edwin Johnston Colour: Fiona Johnston Makeup: Julie Begin Wardrobe: Isabelle Long Photos: Leda & St. Jacques

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“A little graduated bob cut slightly asymmetric and with a very short fringe.”

“This model had long, long hair, which I crimped and used to create a beehive. I worked in different wefts to create the braid.”.

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may+june 07 < salon

C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Colour Code Goldwell Elumen was used to create subtle splashes of colour. Makeup artist Julie Begin used a lot of black eyeliner on set.

Inspiration

Edwin Johnston’s Contessa

18 story board

Paraphernalia Style Fusion (Above) Johnston mixed past and present influences to create a unique look. This model is part Billy Idol and part Green Day frontman Billie Joe Armstrong. “I think we all went to school with a kid like this,” says Johnston. “You know, the kid that carries his guitar around everywhere.”

salon > may+june 07

(Left) The original new romantic style (Below) Johnston researched the styles of bands like Depeche Mode, the Jesus and Mary Chain and the Cure. S

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CONTESSA 19 1 work your creativity

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Get Organized for Contessa 19 Are you entering the Contessas this year? Get all your C19 info and forms on salon52.ca. The Contessa page on salon52 contains everything you need to know about entering. Download forms, get entry tips, source photographers—think of it as onestop shopping. Go to salon52.ca and hit Contessa.

“

The average client should visit eight times a year. Today, that number is shrinking—they are averaging six times. Do the math.

”

As posted on salon52 - speak up

So what can you do to deal with this? Get some answers at salon52, Speak Up. w w w. s a l o n 5 2 . c a JOBS > EVENTS > CONTESSA 50

salon > may+june 07

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PHOTO COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF

SALON52 TIP

The long and the short

of it HAIR ANDREW BARTON, 2006 BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR MAKEUP CAROL BROWN PHOTOS DARREN FEIST

Salon Magazine’s guide to the world of hair extensions By Morella Aguirre and Pam Fulford

air extensions are not a new thing. They’ve been around our industry for a good quarter-century, at first creating a loyal clientele in the ethnic market and then slowly defining themselves as a luxury product popular among the Hollywood elite.

So how do we account for the recent healthy growth in this genre? One reason is product development.

The latest generation of hair extensions are simply better products than they used to be 10 years ago. Then there’s accessibility. Call it supply and demand, or our industry adapting to the Western world’s fixation with celebrity, but now “movie star” hair is within the grasp of the average consumer. Finally, there’s been a change in the perception of hair extensions. For some reason, we all seem to be waking up to the potential of this product. Creatively speaking, hairstylists are no longer thinking linearly: they realize that when styling a client or model they can take hair off where they want and add hair on where they want. They know that extensions are not only about length, but can also be about colour, volume, shine and texture. And in terms of the bottom line, salon professionals are seeing how lucrative extensions really are. Still, as the hair extensions market expands, a new set of challenges enters and a wave of debate ensues. Manufacturers and educators agree and disagree on everything from the raw materials needed to create the product to how the service will be taught to stylists. Here, we present the fundamentals of hair extensions. out there—we touch upon some of the issues buzzing around this astounding product. –MA

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Breaking down the basics—from the types of extensions available to the different educational options that are

may+june 07 < salon

The long and the short of it

The anatomy of a hair extension

rom the traditional sewn-on weaves to the ever-present ponytail piece, there’s loads to choose from in today’s hair extension market. However, within the professional sector, two types are really dominating the scene: permanent bonded or fusion hair extensions and clip-ins. Bonded and clip-in extensions have two main components, the hair and the tip. Obviously, the main differences between are the tip, which determines the way the hairpiece will be attached to the wearer’s natural hair. Both types of extensions can be made from natural or synthetic hair.

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To make any product you need raw materials, just as you need grapes to make wine. To make hair extensions, you either need hair or something that mimics the look of hair. This creates two categories, human hair extensions and synthetic ones. Although synthetic hair certainly has a place in the market, extensions made from human hair are considered to be higher quality. But not all human hair is the same, with most differences stemming from the ethnic origin of the donor. “There’s Chinese hair, Indonesian hair, Indian hair, European hair—there are many types,” explains Michele Clark of euronaturals hair extensions (www. euronaturals.ca). “Our extensions are made of Indian hair, which is considered the best because it is silky and suitable for a Caucasian market.” Hair extension pioneer Great Lengths (www.greatlengths.net) also opts for Indian hair. “We use Indian temple hair,” explains Lillian Sciara, general manager of Great Lengths in Canada. “This is virgin hair that is cut off during a religious ceremony. It is different than gathered Indian hair (hair collected from hair brushes and then rolled into a ball not unlike a ball of yarn), because when the hair is cut it is tied immediately, ensuring that the cuticle runs in the same direction.” This is the much-sought-after remi hair. Known for being smooth, shiny and easy to comb, remi hair is a hot commodity, and companies like Great Lengths and euronaturals take pride in carrying 100 per cent Indian remi hair extensions. The cuticle in gathered hair does not run in the same direction, so to prevent tangling the cuticle needs to be stripped from the hair. This leaves hair in a lacklustre, fragile state, making it weak and hard to colour. A coat of silicone can be added to stripped hair for softness and shine, but the

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PHOTO COURTESY JOICO

Raw Elements

The long and the short of it

protection it offers is only temporary. Coarser hair, like Chinese hair, also needs to be stripped of its cuticle so it becomes finer and adaptable to the Caucasian market. Again, this causes fragility and poor colour retention. Still, the origin of the hair a company uses is only part of the equation, because a product’s quality has a lot to do with the manufacturing process. “Hair is a raw material,” explains Ron Cardillo, general manager for SO.CAP.USA’s North, South and Central American divisions (www.socapusa.com). “What you do to the hair is extremely important. It’s like going to a restaurant. The food they serve is the result of a combination of things, not only the ingredients they use.” According to Cardillo, preserving the hair shaft in the most natural state possible, partly by removing a minimal amount of cuticle, will create extensions that tangle less, hold colour better and look natural. “It takes a lot of skill and technology to do this, and only a few companies do it well. We’ve gotten to the point where we preserve the hair so well that we don’t have to use coating agents like silicone that wear off and leave hair in a poor state.” Chris Popovski, owner of True Hair Extensions (www.truehairext.com), also believes that a lot of magic can happen in the processing of hair. “One of the reasons we’ve had such success with our product is because it blends so well with our clients’ hair. This is because we alter the shape of the cuticle when we manufacture our extensions,” says Popovski. “Most North American women colour their hair. When hair is coloured, its cuticle changes from a circular shape to a triangular shape. We recreate this triangular-shaped cuticle when we process our extensions, which makes our hair blend naturally with coloured hair.”

Faux Fashions

One of the biggest advantages of synthetic hair is a lower cost, and affordability plays an important role when dealing with extensions for the mass market. Hairdo (www.artistchoice.ca/hairdo.html), manufacturer of both 100 per cent human hair and synthetic clip-in extensions, is doing the accessibility thing right. Retailing for $110 to $120, hairdo’s synthetic one-piece clip-ins are affordable, fast and effective. “We use Vibralite,” explains Seanna King, general manager of Artist Choice, Canadian distributor of hairdo. “This is a patented fibre that mimics the look and feel of natural hair. However, unlike human hair, Vibralite extensions cannot be coloured, permed or heat styled.” In other words, these extensions are designed to offer a quick, nohassle change. And clients don’t need to worry about styling the piece prior to clipping it in. Synthetic fibres also come in handy when manufacturing extremely brightly coloured pieces. “Even though SO.CAP.USA’s fantasy line is mostly manufactured with human hair, we do have about eight colours—very bright reds, greens and yellows—that cannot be achieved with natural hair,” says Cardillo. “In this case, we use synthetic fibres.”

Bond Basics

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Permanent hair extensions are manufactured with a tip or a bond that, once manipulated, attaches and holds the extension to the wearer’s own hair. In yester years, this bond was made of plain old glue and wreaked plenty of havoc on a person’s natural locks. But bonds have come a long way. And in today’s market non-damaging bonds are a huge selling and marketing point. A kind of “secret sauce” syndrome has even developed among manufacturers, who often don’t share the exact makeup of their bonding agents for competitive reasons. Most companies, however, tend to describe their bonds as “keratin-based,” an unregulated term that

salon > may+june 07

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The long and the short of it

has been floating around for many years. This is not to say that synthesized keratin protein bonds do not exist, only that the terminology can vary in meaning from one manufacturer to another. “A lot of people hide behind the name ‘keratin,’” explains Popovski. “I think it really all began as a marketing tool, because hair is partly made of keratin. So the idea was that you’re adhering keratin to keratin, like attaching hair to hair. It just sounds better than saying you’re adhering a plastic polymer bond to your client’s hair.” So how do stylists know they’re dealing with quality bonds? The answer is in a product’s performance and removal. Clark outlines a few significant differences between high-quality bonds and poor-quality glues. “With hot fusion systems—extensions requiring heat for attachment—a good-quality bond will heat at a lower point and be soft and malleable. Glues melt at higher temperatures; they can smoke, be sticky and cause blistering on your fingers. Glues will also penetrate the cuticle, obstructing colour services and causing breakage. But the molecules making up high-quality bonds are too big to penetrate the cuticle. They also look tiny, not bulky like glue-based ones.” Clark explains that bonds should not create a gummy mess upon removal and that most quality bonds pulverize and do not melt or dissolve. “If it looks like glue and acts like glue,” she warns, “chances are it’s glue.” Extensions requiring little or no heat for application, like those by Short2Long (www.short2long. com) and Neo-Extensions (www.galet.ca), are known as cold fusion systems and are also heavily reliant on their bonds or tips. Using loop tools and links, cold fusion bonds can be extremely precise and lightweight. Those created with advanced equipment like SO.CAP.USA’s Flat Ice machine can be small enough to be used safely with thinning hair.

Reuse or Toss Away?

Clip-in hair extensions are known for their reusability. Growing in popularity, clip-ins are proliferating, with the Jessica Simpson and Ken Pavés hairdo line really hitting it big over the last few months. Euronaturals recently launched a line of custom-crafted clip-ins, eurostyle. And True Hair Extensions has plans to release a line of clip-ins in six to eight months. But as great and easy as clip-ins are, they should not be used all day every day. Clips can get heavy, causing pulling and damage if they are worn too often. So for everyday wear, permanent extensions are preferable. Permanent extensions can be developed and sold as either one-time use or reusable products. Companies like Great Lengths, euronaturals and SO.CAP.USA, for example, opt for single-use extensions for various reasons. Cardillo says SO.CAP.USA has fiddled with reusable extensions in the past. “In order for our extensions to be reusable, new bonds had to be attached to the extension

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by the stylist at the salon. These tips were never as smooth, fine and well placed as those made at the factory. And the labour costs involved in doing this outweighed the savings from using the same hair.” True Hair Extensions, Balmain Extensions (balmainextensions.com) and Short2Long extensions are on the other end of the spectrum, manufacturing and marketing reusable extensions. “It’s all in the bonds and in the removal,” says True Hair’s Popovski. “We’ve recently launched a bond remover that works with gel and UV light. Instead of pulverizing the bond, our remover swells it, allowing the extension and bond to slip off. The extension maintains 100 per cent of the hair so, it is easily reusable.” In the end, it comes down to client retention. What will work for you in your salon and keep your clients coming back may be different than what will work for others. This is the beauty of choice. And you’ve certainly got a whole lot of that.—MA

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The long and the short of it

The know-how

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ne of the key aspects of successful hair extension installations is education. And not surprisingly, different manufacturers have different options and requirements. “Any stylist who wants to install Great Lengths extensions must apply to take our intensive two-day training course,” says Lillian Sciara, general manager of Great Lengths Canada. “We only accept experienced stylists and require certain standards in salons. Applications must include photos of the salon—inside and out—plus the price menu. We don’t want just anyone.” The Great Lengths course is stringent, continues Sciara. “Certification is only given if the stylist successfully installs the hair extensions. If our trainers aren’t satisfied, stylists have to come back until they are successful.” To maintain quality control, it is the salon that gets the certification. “This prevents the stylist from leaving and doing extensions in his or her home. We only sell to our certified salons.” Melanie O’Connor, an educator with Great Lengths, emphasizes the strengths of their two-day course. “I think a big part of our success is inspiring the individual stylist. Personal training gives them confidence, because they start with good habits. Also, we go into aspects beyond the actual extension installation—things like how to advertise the service, bring clients into the salon and why you shouldn’t do pricing over the phone.” Euronaturals Hair Extensions also likes the hands-on principle. “We offer a one-day training session,” says Michele Clark of euronaturals hair extensions. Like Great Lengths, euronaturals will not certify stylists unless they can successfully install the extensions. Unlike Great Lengths, however, they welcome training junior or student stylists. “We find they are more enthusiastic and into newer trends,” explains Clark. “And salons are often reluctant to spare their big moneyearners—senior stylists—to take the day off for training.” While some manufacturers insist on hands-on training and certification, others believe that the high cost of such education discourages salons and stylists from using that product. According to Chris Popovski, owner of True Hair Extensions, classes were not successful for his product. “We’d sign people up and they wouldn’t show up. Also, I found they were inclined to forget parts of what they learned.” So Popovski opted to go the DVD route. “Our DVD offers five classes—covering everything from bangs to curly hair extensions to extension removal—so the stylist always has this to refer to. In addition, we’ve found that playing the DVD in the waiting area is a great sales and education tool for clients.” John Donato, owner of Donato salons and spas and distributor of hairdo clip-in extensions, sees his product as a great way to introduce people to hair extensions. “We use DVD training because our product is easy to install and this helps us to keep costs down. The salons use the DVD for training—which they often play in the waiting area—and the clients get an instructional booklet showing them how to remove the extensions at night and reattach them in the morning.” Competitively-priced classes are another option. Companies like Global Best Beauty Trading (416.636.1988, 800.363.2525) offer affordable rates for its extensions educational programs. As always, it is important to shop around to see what educational system works best for you. Students wishing to train are also getting in on the act. According to Sandra Alexander, a teacher at Marvel Beauty School in Toronto, installing hair extensions is one of the fundamentals her students are taught. “They have in-class training, both theory and practical, with different types of hair extensions.” Videos are used as a supplemental education tool, and manufacturers

salon > may+june 07

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The long and the short of it

will often come in to provide information on their products. “What we are really doing is providing them with the basics. I like to think they will pick up the artistic challenge and get certified once they graduate. Continuing education is very important.” The lack of government controls on hair extensions may be the one weakness that makes manufacturers, stylists and clients vulnerable. There is little recourse if a hair installation goes badly. Whose fault is it, and how is that determined? Great Lengths is actively involved in this process. “If we have a complaint against a salon, we will follow it up,” says Sciara. “Two complaints and the stylist has to come back for retraining; after a third complaint, we will no longer sell them the Great Lengths product. Euronaturals also keeps an eye on its clients and product, but feels that a good education program prevents most of the problems. According to Popovski, the key is selling to reputable clients. True Hair Extensions, like the other manufacturers and distributors mentioned here, only sells to professional hair salons and stylists. “Let’s face it—stylists don’t want to do a poor job. If they do, their clients won’t come back. It’s to their benefit—and to the benefit of the salon they work for—to do the most professional installation they can.”—PF

Cut and colour

ith hair extensions, cutting is a whole new ballgame. It’s arguably a completely separate skill that can keep a client loyal to his or her hair extension artist. “Cutting the hair after extensions have been installed is crucial,” says Melanie O’Connor, educator for Great Lengths. “I think dry cutting is the best way to make sure the length of the extension matches that of the client’s hair.” She advises texturizing around the perimeter so it looks soft and natural “Think of it as sculpting.” Michele Clark of euronaturals hair extensions has found that a hot razor is ideal for “slivering,” a technique that blends the extensions, which have a tubular shape, to the client’s hair that naturally tapers off. “We find it seals the cuticle and helps create movement, she says. Matching extensions to hair colour appears to be very straightforward. Great Lengths has 54 natural colours plus several “crazy” colours, according to O’Connor. “Usually we try and match the natural hair and the extension, but sometimes the client really wants to emphasize the contrast. For example, I recently did an installation on an Asian girl who wanted white extensions to go with her black hair. It looked fantastic.” If a client wants both extensions and a colour change—essentially a whole new head of hair—it shouldn’t all be done at the same time. “Hair swells when it is coloured,” explains Clark. “I’d advise changing your client’s colour at least a week in advance, with at least two shampoos before putting in the extensions. Conversely, wait at least one week after an instillation to do a colour service. This way the bond is not damaged. I find the best results come from the short colour treatments that take 3 to 5 minutes. They usually have no peroxide or ammonia and give gloss and colour. The less chemical used the better.” Most North American hair has been chemically treated in some way—coloured, highlighted, permed—so it is much more porous than hair extensions. “If clients want to change their hair colour, including extensions, it should really be done seperately,” concludes O’Connor. “The extension will not absorb colour as easily, so it’s best to colour your client’s hair first and match the colour to the extensions.”—PF To learn more about hair extensions and the companies mentioned here, go to salon52.ca. S

salon > may+june 07

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Te x t b y K e r r y F r e e k

Harmonic Icons ISO combines balance with style in the i.con 2007 concept collection

ision. Shape. Structure. Focus. Personality.

“When in harmony, these five principles of design create a unique statement,” says the ISO artistic team of the new i.con 2007 ISO concept collection. Taking three very different subjects and putting the new ISO i.SY5TEM methodology to the test, ISO artists transformed models into “style icons in their own respective worlds.” Emphasizing harmony, balance and versatility, ISO’s collection uses the classic techniques of over-direction and asymmetry to achieve “an end result accentuating both texture and colour,” says Eric Mayes, ISO cutting and finishing specialist. Using the ISO blueprint (consult, cut, texture, colour, finish), the team blended wavy dimensions with luxurious and dreamlike shades, creating a collection that is fluid, luxurious and graceful.

salon > may+june 07

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Collection: i.con 2007 ISO concept collection Hair: ISO artistic team Photos: Hama Sanders

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05.05.07

may+june 07 < salon

Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

Teen geek

Embrace your inner nerd alongside TONI & GUY

lthough thick-rimmed glasses occupy a definite niche in the fashion accessories world, this season geek chic hits a totally new level. Spring 07 ready-to-wear collections from labels like Marc by Marc Jacobs and Luella can

be dissected to reveal a definite nod to the nerd. Here, we showcase a super-cute geekinspired hair collection from TONI & GUY, a hair brand always on the cutting edge of style.

salon > may+june 07

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Hair: Carl McCaffrey and Nina Beckert for TONI & GUY Makeup: Phyllis Cohen Wardrobe: Milena Mihic Photos: Wolfgang Mustain

19.05.07 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

may+june 07 < salon

salon > may+june 07

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B &W

Schwarzkopf Professional salutes Diversity

Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

itled the Diverse Collection, the latest Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks international release interprets the season’s top trends with the company’s trademark sophistication and style. Broken down into four categories—

Futurism, 2-Tone, Siren and The Dancer—the Diverse Collection ranges drastically in cut, colour and dressing. Here, we present a selection from 2-Tone, an exploration of this three trends on our website, www.salon52.ca.

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season’s focus on black-and-white fashions. Look out for selections from the remaining

may+june 07 < salon

Collection: Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Diverse Collection 2007 Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Creative Direction, hair: Tyler Johnston Photos: Calle Stoltz, lundlund.com

12.05.07

salon > may+june 07

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Going Underground The ups and downs of basement salons By Pam Fulford

I �� We want you to join our team for many reasons. Mostly, because to you, it’s not a job. It’s an opportunity to put your passion into practice. To develop your skills and to grow your talent in a professional, friendly and caring environment. Join an exclusive group of hairstylists who started their careers by making the best choice of all - to be a part of the First Choice Haircutters team. To ﬁnd out more, visit the careers section on www.ﬁrstchoice.com

salon > may+june 07

N BUSINESS, THERE’S COMPETITION. And as you’re all well aware, the beauty industry is no exception. Recently, there has been an extensive and controversial discussion about basement salons on salon52.ca, the online home of Salon Magazine. Fabio Sementilli, owner of Salon Shampoo in Toronto, began the conversation with a very frank and direct posting on salon52’s chat room, Speak Up. In his original posting, Sementilli states that the hair industry is threatened by high prices on services. “I believe we are pricing ourselves out of our own market. Under our nose is a complete underground beauty culture. Now, more than ever, we see basement hairdressers, full-service alternative spaces in industrial areas… that are becoming a cheap alternative,” he says on salon52. When interviewed, Sementilli expands upon his frustration. “I like to think that salon owners are carrying their own weight. My business is registered, I pay taxes, and the health inspectors come in to approve my salon.” For Sementilli, the whole concept of basement salons is a frustrating one. On the one hand, he understands the appeal of cheaper prices for clients and the attraction for stylists who run a salon out of their own home. “People compare prices, and when they are going to the salon several times a year the cost adds up. But stylists working from home don’t pay the overhead costs I do, so their fees can be much lower.” Not only is Sementilli disturbed about paying legitimate business costs— things like rent, taxes, business registration—when home salon owners don’t have to, but he is also resentful when he trains stylists only to see them move on to their own basement salons. For him, it has become an issue of loyalty. “I put a lot of time and energy into training my stylists. It’s tough when you see them leave, set up their own business and take clients with them. If you’re a big salon, you can absorb the loss. Smaller salons can really be hurt.” On the other hand, there are reasons behind hairstylists setting up their own home salons. “Leo”—who prefers to remain anonymous for obvious reasons—has only been working in the industry for two years. “I’m on salary and I only make $460 a week. It’s barely enough to live on,” he comments. Leo works roughly 10 hours a day, five days a week. “I see clients at home several nights a week plus on one of my days off. In a good week I can make $400.”

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For Leo, this means the difference between a subsistence salary and one that can support him much more comfortably. Economics is Leo’s main reason for working out of his home, but not the only one. “I have worked in a few salons, and, to be honest, the owners haven’t always treated the staff very well. I have seen people criticized and looked down on; let’s face it, there can be a lot of backbiting in salons.” While he acknowledges that almost every stylist he knows does work on the side, he believes this would change if they were treated more fairly. “Working on a 50-50 commission basis would really boost earnings for the stylist. And encouraging them to be creative and go at their own pace makes their job much more interesting and challenging.” Leo is unusual in that he has registered his home salon. Also, none of his clientele is from the business where he currently works. “I think stealing clients is totally unethical. My customer base started out with friends and family and then grew by word of mouth. And to be honest, if my boss paid commission, I’d bring those clients into her salon.” Leo’s dissatisfaction with his work environment extends to what he sees as his boss’s greediness. “Weddings are big business for salons, and when we have a big wedding party, we’re expected to come in three hours early, often at 5:30 in the morning. It’s not unusual to put in a 12-hour workday. For our boss, it can mean up to $2,000—but for us it’s usually worth nothing. If the client doesn’t tip us, all we get are our usual wages; we don’t even get paid for the extra hours we work.”

Miracle ��

“It is the salon owner’s responsibility to motivate his or her employees.” Although the actual profitability of booking wedding parties and establishing 50-50 commission rates is debatable, Leo’s comments illustrate a common sentiment among junior staff: many young stylists feel they are being taken for granted. Still, Leo does not plan to exit the industry. In fact, he would like to open his own salon one day. “I don’t want to be working out of my home forever. I’d like to set up something special.” His ambitions indicate another challenge for home stylists. According to Sementilli, a stage artist for Wella, people who go underground can sacrifice a lot, especially if they are interested in taking their artistry to a higher level. “I have had a few stylists leave and try to establish home salons; none of them are in business any longer. The sad thing about it is, they were so talented. They all could have been stars in this industry, but they won’t be able to showcase those talents at shows or onstage.” While any stylists he hires have to abide by Salon Shampoo’s philosophy and rules, which prohibit working after-hours at home, Sementilli is sympathetic to the plight of the underpaid stylist. “I believe it is the salon owner’s responsibility to motivate his or her employees as much as they can. That includes paying them well and providing a professional environment where they can grow.” While he doesn’t see that as the solution to the problem— “Home salons will always exist”—he sees it as a preventive measure salons can take to maintain their talented staff. As always, we’d love to hear your take on the matter. Go to salon52.ca and hit Speak Up to have your say. S

Before

1.800.557.3223 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

After

LCN.ca may+june 07 < salon

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Cutting for a Cause

Last call: Join Redken and One X One in the fight against youth poverty

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GEORGE PIMENTEL

KEVIN MAZZURE

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KEVIN MAZZURE

By Tina Christopoulos

Matt Damon (above) is host of the One X One gala during the Toronto International Film Festival. Raine Maida and Chantal Kreviazuk (right) are the official spokespeople for the One X One Foundation.

n June 3, 2007, Redken is organizing a national cut-athon to help raise money for the One X One foundation, giving salons and independent stylists the opportunity to help fight youth poverty in Canada and around the world. One X One is a non-profit foundation committed to supporting, preserving and improving the lives of children. “Aside from helping make a difference, the benefits of participating in this great initiative are many,” says Scott Reid, marketing director, Redken Canada. The event is set to garner a substantial amount of press coverage because of supporting partners like Rogers Communications, The Globe and Mail, CTV and CBS. Also, the salon that raises the most money per number of participating stylists will win an all-expenses-paid trip to Toronto during the Toronto International Film Festival to attend the One X One gala, where they will hand over their cheque to the event’s host, scheduled to be Academy Award winner Matt Damon. Once a salon signs up, it will receive it’s Redken cut-athon kit, which includes promotional material such as T-shirts, pins, posters, One X One bracelets made by Diesel as well as a donation box to start communicating the event to clients. Participating salons will also receive a commemorative One X One book and DVD with pictures from the cut-athon and their names listed as well as certification Participating salons of participation. And if you’re a stylist interested in donating your time and skills but not will receive a charity box, mirror and bottle working for a participating salon, there’s still a way to join the cause. Flagship stickers and stand-up locations will be set up in major city centres across Canada (Toronto, Montreal, posters for their shelves (as seen here) Vancouver, etc.). to promote the event To register for the Redken national cut-athon, salons should call 1-866-9REDKEN. to their clients and publicize the cause. Also visit the Redken booth at your local ABA show for additional information. S

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salon > may+june 07

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ESTHETICS

COSMETIC CREATIVITY

arbie’s back!” says Richard St. Laurent of Salon Inpure in Montreal. The 2007 Contessa Makeup Artist of the Year loves the new trends in cosmetics. “Shocking pinks and lime greens are hot this spring, paired with heavy eyeliner and fake eyelashes. Makeup is more fun, more individual than it was 15 years ago. Go with red lips and little eye makeup or pink lips and heavy eye makeup. Both work.” According to Melodie Reynolds, a makeup artist for La Biosthetique Paris, there are several promotional ideas salons can use to take advantage of these vivid new shades this spring and summer.

HERE COMES THE BRIDE Weddings are big business when the weather gets warm. “The bride should come in a month before the wedding for a consultation, a week before for eyebrow and eyelash tinting plus a mini-facial, and the day before for a manicure/pedicure,” says Reynolds. TIP: When doing makeup, match the colours to the person, not the dress. “Don’t use the same face on each member of the bridal party,” says Reynolds, “but choose one element in the colour palette and use it on everyone to provide a unifying theme.”

salon > may+june 07

M O T H E R ’ S DAY A perfect opportunity to bring new clientele into your salon is a mother-and-daughter night—complete with wine and appetizers—that includes a makeup and skin care tutorial. TIP:“The emphasis should be on looking younger,” says Reynolds. “Many women have used the same makeup for years—encourage them to try something new.”

PROM PRINCESSES Offer the whole enchilada! Hair, skin care, makeup, manicure, pedicure—whatever she needs to feel special. “For teenage girls, this may be their ﬁrst experience in a salon,” says Reynolds. TIP:Take-home bags with sample makeup are a big attraction—everyone from brides to prom queens likes to touch up her makeup throughout the night.

S AY O N A R A , B A B Y Summer means travel and a chance to stock up on vacation specials. “Try packaging a hairspray with lipstick and mascara, or a foundation with sunscreen,” says Reynolds. “I find that putting together similar elements—eyes, skin or lips—tends to be more popular. TIP:Customize promotional packages. “Match clients with the colours they look best in,” says Reynolds. “Taking the extra time to choose the shades that flatter them can only benefit your business.” S 30.06.07

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PHOTOS COURTESY LA BIOSTHETIQUE PARIS

“B

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NAILS Edited by Morella Aguirre

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polish trend: multi-functional lacquers Chi Ceramic Nail Lacquer’s Summer 07 Frenchies collection features nano-silver to kill bacteria, ceramic for added durability and silk for extra shine and ease of application.

salon > may+june 07

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MODEL PHOTO COURTESY CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN

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Purchase a Fast Set Babies Polish Cure Top Coat 12-pack with FREE Point-of-Purchase Display at a special price of $29.95. Retail Sa

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The Sweet Smell of Summer Scentuals Cuticle Oil presents four delicious fragrances in elegant and economical tilting bubble bottles.

Now $7.95 (save 20%) • Peach Vanilla Item #893-PV • Cranberry Item #893-C • Mango Item #893-M • Melon Item #893-ML

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• dries any polish to an ultra-shiny, non-smudge finish in just minutes • seals with a tough, non-yellowing layer that protects polish from chipping and wear for two weeks or more! • cures with air or the heat of a regular 60 watt light bulb. • has no offensive odour

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TA N N I N G

Te x t b y Tina Christopoulos

Get Connected! JCTA forms Web-based community to keep you informed of the latest tanning news

he Joint Canadian Tanning Association has built a comprehensive website, www.tancanada.org, catering to all tanning salon professionals. Its creation is part of what Steve Gilroy, director of Smart Tan Canada and of JCTA, calls the organization’s rebirth. “With the help of some key members, we were able to secure the funding to be the kind of association we need to be,” he says. “The JCTA is a salon-based group run by salon owners that acts like a PR agency for our industry.” Their vision is that all Canadians learn to correctly embrace ultraviolet and sunshine as part of a healthy lifestyle—one the acknowledges that moderate ultraviolet light exposure when experienced in a non-burning fashion is the smartest way to maximize the potential benefits of UV light. This minimizes the potential risks associated with either too much or too little sunlight. There are three components to achieving that goal: keeping salon owners and vendors informed of the latest scientific advancements with weekly emailed updates and news articles; reaching government officials with constructive, genuine efforts to work with them to foster a responsible, moderate approach to UV exposure; and assisting the media to present objective information about UV exposure. The website also offers links to other helpful websites as well as a private log-in area for salon owners with continuously updated information. There are plans to set up a forum and chat room for industry discussions in the future.

Market your salon

Utilize your manufacturers and distributors to your advantage. Creating marketing material can be costly and time-consuming. The manufacturers and distributors who supply you with products have already conceptualized the material for promoting the products they sell. Ask your representative if they offer: • Posters

• Promotional or selling tools

• T-shirts

• Product description cards

They may also be interested in doing co-op consumer advertising with you.

salon > may+june 07

Good Reading Doctor supports sensible UV exposure

he UV Advantage by Michael F. Holick, Ph D, MD is the perfect guide to healthy UV exposure. It’s a well information for consumers and a valuable resource and mustread for tanning professionals. Believing that the scare tactics of national health leaders about the potential hazards of sun exposure have gone too far, Dr. Holick works hard to dispel the common urban myths about sunshine. “Sun-derived vitamin D is one of the most powerful nutrients the body uses to protect itself from type I diabetes, multiple sclerosis, rheumatoid arthritis, heart attack, high blood pressure, stroke and some of the most deadly internal cancers,” states Dr. Holick.

From what causes wrinkles to why we have seasonal depression, explaining what causes skin cancer and what skin types are at risk, Dr. Holick leaves no controversial stone unturned. The UV Advantage could easily be called Tanning For Dummies because of its comprehensive and detail-oriented approach to demystifying the clinically demonstrated benefits of sensible sun exposure. Drawing on the findings of more than 120 peer-reviewed medical studies, Dr. Holick offers compelling evidence that moderate exposure to either natural or artificial UV light several times a week—before applying sunscreen—will satisfy the body’s vitamin D requirement without damaging the skin. Considered the nation’s leading expert on vitamin D, Dr. Holick is a professor of medicine, physiology and biophysics at the Boston University School of Medicine, where he heads the Vitamin D, Skin and Bone research laboratory.

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PROFILE

EAST runs WEST For the love of women, Woody Michleb has found his calling

here’s a special place in hairstylist heaven for guys candid and cool enough to just

say yes when asked point-blank if they began their careers as a way to meet chicks. And there’s an extra-special place for a smooth operator like Woody Michleb, who admits with a chuckle that prior to picking up the scissors, he sold cars because the fancy ones acted as date-bait.

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may+june 07 < salon

▼

HAIR AND PHOTOS WOODY MICHLEB MAKEUP MARIANNE CUMKO WARDROBE AMY-LOUISE VIDLER

By Kim Hughes

PROFILE “But running my own salon worked even better,” Michleb laughs, reflecting on the shop he opened in his native Lebanon in 1986 at the precocious age of 16. Love of women might have been Michleb’s point of entry into the world of hair. But now, at age 36, with two salons currently operating under his watch in suburban Toronto, artistic director of hair-care products firm Farouk Systems listed on his business card, and myriad awards for platform and editorial work and global competition wins inventoried on his dossier, it’s clear he found his calling. And if success in an international business such as hairstyling can be measured by the number of stamps in one’s passport, then the peripatetic Beirut-born, Toronto-based Michleb, who has (pardon the pun) cut a swath through Europe, the Middle East and the Americas—and who speaks four languages fluently—is a superstar. “After Beirut I wanted to travel, so I went to France to work there. Then I went to London, then back to Beirut via Cyprus. Back then, though, it was hard to travel because, being Lebanese, people thought you were a terrorist. But eventually I managed to get my visa for Canada. Not long after, civil war broke out in Lebanon and it was time to start fresh. So I did.” That’s an understatement. Since arriving in Montreal in 1990, Michleb has excelled, racking up the above-mentioned career highlights while inspiring scores of stylists, judging (and entering) competitions, and serving as image gatekeeper at Houstonbased Farouk Systems, a demanding post constantly topping up his air-miles. Oh yes, and presiding over his salons (Michleb has owned or operated a total of seven in his career). Of competitions Michleb says, “They’re very healthy. Whether you win or don’t win, they keep you on the edge and make you strive to do better. Competitions enhance your own personal satisfaction.” And while he loves every aspect of his career, Michleb allows that platform work is his passion. “You know, they call me ‘Edward Scissorhands’ because I cut really fast and create a lot of hype onstage. Being onstage gives you the biggest rush, and it’s thrilling to be able to share with other artists your vision and way of doing things. “As hairstylists, what we have in common is sharing. We share with our clients, our colleagues and we all get to learn from each other every single day. My best advice? Probably that hairstylists need to be open to learning more. “Often I find that hairstylists, when you’re training them, get to a point where their egos exceed their talent. All hairstylists have egos, and that’s good, but you can’t let it get ahead of you. You must be willing to learn more every day from everyone around you. That will get you to the top.” S

salon > may+june 07

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CHICAGO CHIC The Chicago Midwest Beauty Show, one of the biggest professional beauty trade shows in North America, took place March 3 to 5, 2007.

Bringing together thousands of exhibitors and some of the biggest names in the business, the event also lured a colossal mix of urban street styles. Armed with my amateur photo skills, I set out to chronicle some of the coolest styles at the show. Here are some of the snaps that worked. I hope it’s enough to give you a sense of just how colourful the Chicago show crowd was. Next year, the event moves to downtown Chicago, which will certainly mean a larger turnout. And although they say bigger isn’t always better, I’m sure the 2008 Chicago Midwest Beauty Show will be just that.

salon > may+june 07

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Dermal Integration TechnologyTM is a registered trademark of Pathfinder Management, Inc.

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INTERIORS by Colette Wright

INDULGENT CHARM

leek. Simple. Stunning. How sweet it is at Blainville, Quebec’s Le Salon Sugar. A 50-kilometre drive northwest from downtown Montreal, this lavish salon is the “icing on the cake” for guests who thrive on luxurious hair service at a competitive price. Stylist and co-owner Jon G. says ivory cream walls create more of a soothing appearance than stark white. “We wanted to avoid a clinical look.” He claims the illuminated, sugar-cube shaped wall niches help make the hair products and decor stand out more. “Even the products on the retail shelves attract attention because the colours give the interior more pizzazz.” Thin fluorescent lighting tubes are hung from the 12-foot ceiling, but the lights’ wattage and tone is soft enough not to cast shadows or produce any hot spots. With so much hair and product debris on the floor, Jon G. says it was necessary to install a metal baseboard around the circumference of the salon. “This way when we polish or buff the floor the machines don’t scuff or mark the walls because the metal base protects it.” Sugar has no spa, but it’s unique because every guest begins his or her appointment with a sweet indulgence: lying on one of three beds in a glass-

salon > may+june 07

enclosed room to receive a scalp and shampoo treatment. Relaxing music is played to increase the sense of calm. In the colour section there are no mirrors. “Guests don’t need to stare at themselves with foil in their hair, especially men,” says Jon G. Instead, team Sugar sits clients at a large meeting table where they can sip on a variety of beverages and enjoy a conversation with other guests and staff, or just read. The colour bar is behind a counter where only the staff has access. Guests can feel the energetic vibe as technicians mix colours using electric blenders. They enjoy watching this process, commenting on the fact that their hair is about to get a mixed drink. The design helps hide the mess. The cutting station is where Lanvain designer Bernard Jobidon says the magic happens. “Sugar makes a statement in style and decor by using high-end furniture with unique no-knob cabinetry.” He also points out the 8-foot stainless steel water wall that adds a Las Vegas feel but is soothing to the soul. Le Salon Sugar is planning to open a second location later this year in Laval, Quebec. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

PHOTOS ALEX LEGAULT CONTESSA 18

WELCOME TO SALON SUGAR

Name of Salon: Le Salon Sugar Address: 75 boul des ChĂ˘teaux, Suite 105, Blainville, Quebec Owners: Jon G., Karine Morin, Nathalie Morin and Patrick Pecorilli Opened: September 2005 Size: 1,850 square feet â&#x20AC;˘ Number of Staff: 14 Breakdown: 8 cutting stations; 6 colour stations Interior Designer: Lanvain Design Furniture & Equipment: Philippe Stark Retail Hair: Kerastase, Tigi and Wella Phone: 450.434.2002 Hours of Operation: Tuesday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday to Friday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Web site: www.lesalonsugar.com w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

may+june 07 < salon

HOT PRODUCTS by Malumir R. Beavis

HOTPICKS 4

2 5

3 1

www.goldwell.com

salon > may+june 07

SOLAR FLAIR For skin protection with anti-aging benefits, turn to RVB’s anti-age Cream Colour, created to provide cellular protection and a glowing complexion. This SPF 50 coloured cream shields cells from UVA and UVB rays and firms the skin with organic plant extracts such as ginseng and olive. For more info visit www.rvbcosmetics.com

THE MORNING AFTER For that effortlessly sexy next-day look, try Daily Paste by ISO. This medium-hold pliable styling paste creates shape and texture with light shine, even in humid conditions. Vitamins A and E join forces with soy and wheat proteins to nourish hair while UV protectants guard against the sun’s damaging UVB rays. For more info visit www.isohair.com

POLISHED PANACHE Just in time to rescue hair from frizzinducing humidity, Aveda’s Smooth Infusion shampoo and conditioner moisturize and soften hair to resist frizz. A blend of organic aloe, maize and guar bean works with tamanu and babassu oils to create a lightweight protective barrier. For more info visit www.aveda.com

TOUGH TRIO L’Anza introduces Trauma Treatment, a leave-in colour preserver with triple UV protection. This lightweight treatment restores hair’s vitality while lengthening colour’s staying power with L’Anza’s aromatic flower shield complex. For more info visit www.lanza.com

FOUR HITTER L’Oréal Professionnel introduces four new Play Ball stylers. Density Material provides silky, mussed-up definition, while Pure Jelly acts as a defining, shiny finisher. Pearl Whip cream reveals shine and tames frizz, and Extrême Honey’s strong hold delivers sculpting power. For more info visit ww.lorealprofessionnel. com

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PHOTO MICHAEL GRAYDON

INSIDE OUT Goldwell’s new colourprotecting InnerEffect line offers customizable in-salon treatments and at-home retail. The line is divided in two: RePower & Colour Live and ReSoft & Colour Live products. The RePower line revitalizes limp hair, while the ReSoft collection smoothes damaged locks. For more info visit

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EVENTS

SHOWS

HAIR CLASSES

ABA Edmonton May 6—7 Location TBA; Edmonton, AB Info: www.abacanada.com

GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs in Toronto and Vancouver Info: 877.670.6767

International Congress of Esthetics Long Beach May 19—21 Miami Beach Convention Center; Miami, Florida Info: www.lneonline.com

KMS PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs in Toronto and Vancouver Info: 877.670.6767

Premiere Orlando 2007 June 10 — 11 Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Florida Info: www.premiereshows.com Allied Beauty Association AGM June 14 — 17 Sofitel Montréal; Montréal, QC Info: www.abacanada.com

AVEDA PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs across Canada Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 GREAT LENGTHS PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs Info: 800.461.9302 L’ORÉAL PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs across Canada Info: 800.361.1861

MATRIX TORONTO ACADEMY PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs Info: 888.422.6879

NORTH AMERICAN SCHOOL OF PODOLOGY PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs Info: 416.742.4319 CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs across Canada Info: 800.263.8888 ext.242

REDKEN PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs Info: 866.9.REDKEN SCHWARZKOPF PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs Info: 905.625.7200 ext.240

STAR NAIL PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs Location TBA Info: 800.661.9997

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS PRESENTS: Educational programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions In-salon classes also available Info: 866.731.4327

ESTHETICS CLASSES

NAIL CLASSES

LCN PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs. Visit www.lcn.ca for full listings or call 800.557.3223 Info: 800.557.3223

LCN PRESENTS: Ongoing educational programs. Visit www.lcn.ca for full listings or call 800.557.3223

Call 416.869.3131 ext.105 or email editorial@beautynet.com for event listing. Due to space limitations we cannot list all events. S

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SCOOP

MINI ME Top-selling products from Goldwell Styling line are now available in teeny, tiny travel sizes. Senscience is also making life easier for jetsetting girls with its new mini-trios. Also on a small packaging kick is Thermafuse, which launched its Shine Polishing Spray in an easy-to-carry 2ounce bottle.

Pretty Betty Farouk Systems’ president, Shauky Gulamani, was recently on set with the g TV show cast and crew of the award-winnin es and staff Vald ann Ugly Betty. Hairstylist Mary to create ucts prod ilk used both CHI and BioS Williams, ssa Vane ra, the looks of America Ferre Mabius. Eric and ijn Salma Hayek, Rebecca Rom i man Gula ky Top, Vanessa Williams, Shau with i man Gula m, and Eric Mabius; botto America Ferrera

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salon > may+june 07

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Milan Fashion

From June 1 to 10 L’Oréal Canada will be partners in creativity with the Luminato festival in Toronto. Redken and Matrix are two of the brands which will join to collaborate and present in participating Luminato events. Their involvement is one that reflects shared values in creativity, diversity and accessibility. Each will showcase the artistic talent of

Italian hair care and colour company Alfaparf is expanding its presence in Canada. Available through BSG, Alfaparf has recently launched the Splendore colour protection line. For more, visit www.alfaparf.

hairstylists. Summer of Love is an event taking place in Yorkville which Matrix will be a participating partner. Luminato will include music, theatre, dance, visual arts, literature and film events. The much-anticipated unveiling of the newly redesigned Royal Ontario Museum will also be part of the festival. For more, visit www.luminato.com.

com. Above photo from L to R Davide Cortinovis, President of B.I.P Inc., Larry Roses, national sales manger and Paul Smith general manager of Alfaparf.

PARTNERS IN STYLE JonPaul Holt of Avant Garde Hair in Vancouver has joined Utopia & Salon and Utopia Academy as international artistic director of advanced education. Awni Abu-Ulba, president

Spoiled Girl Spoiled Beauty Supplies, a mobile, on-call distributorship in southern Ontario, is open for business and carrying NSI and Haken products. For more, contact Alicia Hicks at spoiledbeautysupplies@gmail.com or 905.869.2815.

of the Utopia Group, announced in February that Holt’s role will include mentoring and developing an artistic team to represent the salon and academy.

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may+june 07 < salon

SCOOP

TEAM CANADA Canadian OMC Hairworld competitors were selected after an exciting technical elimination at the Montreal ABA in March. Made up of four junior and four senior competitors, team Canada will travel to Chicago, Illinois, for the 2008 Hairworld competitions taking place March 1 to 3. Junior competitors are Ontario’s Rachel Fortino, Adrian Minella and Lina Shamoun alongside BC stylist Jacob Rozenberg. Alberta’s Terry Lyn Ann Prytullack, BC’s Svetlana Gridine and Ontario’s Minnella Cosimo and Luigi Di Tacchio will compete in the senior division. division

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salon > may+june 07

Lady's man First Lady and Framesi Canada have a new national sales manager, Domenic Sgromo. Framesi has also recently announced an exclusive distribution deal with Metro Beauty Supply in Ontario. For more info, visit firstladyproducts.com and framesi.ca.

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The largest Canadian show of its kind, the Toronto ABA took place April 1 and 2, 2007, at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre. With awesome stage demos, dramatic hair and nail competitions and a special presentation by Martin Parsons, the event drew crowds from across the region.

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may+june 07 < salon

P R E S S PA S S

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VANCOUVER ABA

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The ABA invaded the west coast March 25 and 26 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre. Thousands of beauty pros from across British Columbia descended on Vancouver to check out the latest developments in products and education.

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salon > may+june 07

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P R E S S PA S S

CAPUCCI TURNS 20 On a stormy March 1, the gang from Capucci Salon and Spa in Toronto entertained a crowd of over 100 guests at the L’Oréal Academy while celebrating their 20th anniversary in business. Guests noshed on fabulous hors d’oeuvres, sipped cocktails, and participated in a silent auction that raised over $ 2,800.00 for Rethink Breast Cancer. The auction was supported by donations from Capucci’s business community partners.

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THE INTERNATIONAL SALON AND SPA EXPO From February 3 to 5, 2007, the Professional Beauty Association hosted the International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE) at the Long Beach Convention Centre in California. As always, Canadians were on hand to participate and take in the show.

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Classifieds ��

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 16 Issue 7 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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A.I.I. China Glaze pg 57 .....................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com

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A.I.I. IBD pg 53 ..................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com

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A.I.I. Gigi Wax pg 95 ..........................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com ALFAPARF pg 10-11 .........................................877-AP-COLOR ..................... www.alfaparf.com Amoré 2007 pg 100 .......................................................................................... www.avolacollege.com Breckles Insurance pg 98 .................................888-203-8122 Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 89 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com Chatters Canada pg 73 .....................................888-944-5055 ........................ www.chatters.ca Collega for Aveda pg 33 ....................................800-689-1066 ........................ www.aveda.com Contessa 19 pg 48-49 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Cosmetics Based on Nature pg 93 .................................................................. www.cosmeticsbasedonnature.com CreativeSpa SpaManicure pg 19 .......................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.creativenaildesign.com

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Dennis Bernard TCA pg 59 ...............................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com

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Essie pg 41 ........................................................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com

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First Choice Haircutters pg 70......................................................................... www.ﬁrstchoice.com

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Dikson Premium Color pg 35 .......................................................................... www.diksonservice.com Donato Hairdo pg 43 ........................................................................................ www.donato.ca Farouk CHI Curl Preserve System pg 21 ..........800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com FootLogix pg 85 .................................................888-442-4408 ........................ www.footlogix.com Fudge Headpaint pg 25 .....................................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com

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Global Best Beauty pg 72................................................................................. www.globalbestbeauty.com

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HALO Accessories pg 91 ...................................866-874-5769 ........................ www.halofashionaccessories.com

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HALO Makeup pg 55..........................................866-293-4165 ........................ www.halocosmetics.net

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Great Lengths pg 31 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com

Intercosmetics RVB pg 75 ................................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca International Beauty Sevices pg 27 ..................800-642-3818 ISO i.color pg 108 ..............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca

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Joico Vero K-Pak pg 8-9 ...................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com, www.icehair.com

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K.U.M pg 92 ...................................................................................................... www.kumhaircare.com

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Keyano Mango Madness pg 99 ........................................................................ www.keyano.com

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L’ANZA Healing Haircare pg 37 .........................800-423-0307 ........................ www.lanza.com L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.art pg 2-3..............800-361-1861 ........................ www.lorealprofessionnel.ca Lanvain pg 39 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN Foot Care Mousse pg 71 ...........................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca LKM pg 98 .........................................................877-764-4547 ........................ www.lkmbeauty.com

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Magna Esthetics Supply pg 90 ..........................800-561-3766 ........................ www.magnaesthetics.com

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Pivot Point pg 70 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca

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Matrix Vavoom Gold Heat pg 6-7 ......................800-361-1861 ........................ www.matrix.com Milano Computer Systems Inc. pg 94...............800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com National Hairdresser Services pg 29................888-424-7111 ........................ www.nhshair.com NP Group Classimo pg 55 .................................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca OPI Night Brights pg 15 ....................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com PureOlogy Serious Colour Care pg 13 ..............800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com Redken ONEXONE pg 23 ...................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Rova Beauty Systems pg 28 ..............................888-442-9999 ........................ www.tanningtechnologies.com Salon52 pg 50....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf ClubSKP pg 18 ............................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Schwarzkopf Essential Looks pg 16-17 ...........800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Glamour pg 4-5 .......800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Star Nail pg 77 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio Naturalé pg 61 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com True Concepts pg 69 .........................................877-TRUE-480 ...................... www.truehairext.com Ultra Pedicure pg 26 .........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com Urban Beauty Systems pg 47 ...........................866-731-4327 ........................ www.urbanbeautysystems.com

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Uvalux Australian Gold pg 96 ...........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

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Uvalux Bestselling Lotions 2007 pg 83 ............800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

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Uvalux Tanning Beds pg 106.............................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

salon > may+june 07

Uvalux Hydration Station pg 107 ......................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Swedish Beauty pg 80 ...........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

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LAST WORD

HAIRSTYLES AND STARS by John Steinberg

PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

1967

— a significant year for at least two reasons. I arrived in Canada in May, 23 years old, with eight years of hairdressing already under my belt. And in October the rock-musical Hair burst onto the scene, sending the theatre world topsy-turvy. A story about long-haired hippies, Hair extolled the drug, music and peace, love, flower-power youth culture of the 60s. The show shook many of the norms held by society at the time, with the majority of the cast appearing naked at the end of the first act. In Mexico the government shut down a 1968 production after just one performance, and the cast had to leave the country to avoid arrest. Since then, a number of films and plays have proven important for our industry. Recently I watched the remake of the film Marie Antoinette, starring the suitably coiffed Kirsten Dunst. Although lacking a solid story, the movie is a must-see masterpiece of hairdressing, costume, makeup and overall imagery. It got me thinking of other productions I’ve seen over the years that drip with style and fashion, giving us hairstyling trends and some great style tips. Who could forget Audrey Hepburn, with her classic updo, Givenchy gowns and oh-so-sophisticated cigarette holder in 1961’s New York-chic Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Speaking of New York, the same year brought the musical West Side Story to the screen—a view of the other side of the tracks, with jeans and T-shirts, loads of swagger, George Chakiris’s haircut and the lovely Natalie Wood. Unlike the forgettable 1979 movie of Hair, Grease—both the play and the movie—is still very much alive and kicking, even spreading to reality TV with Grease: You’re The One That I Want. My favourite song from the movie, naturally, is the fantasy number “Beauty School Drop-Out.” Girls wearing pyramids of silver rollers on their heads frolic about while Frankie Avalon as the Teen Angel

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sings lines like “Turn in your teasin’ comb and go back to high school.” And a big thanks goes to Olivia Newton-John’s full head of curls in her transformation at the end of the movie. It sent many customers our way. John Travolta starred in Grease with a wonderful head of oily 50s hair. In the late 70s he also starred as Tony Manero, king of the disco dancers, in Saturday Night Fever Fever. I love the scene where his father slaps Tony on the back of the head during dinner. Exasperated, Tony blurts, “Would ya just watch the hair. Ya know, I spend a long time on my hair and he hit it; he hit my hair.” Charlies’ Angel’s Farrah Fawcett was the TV hair icon of the 70s. It took so much gel and hairspray to hold her hair in place, Farrah’s former husband once claimed he got a broken nose from Farrah rolling over in her sleep and striking him in the face with her ponytail. In the 90s in Friends, Jennifer Aniston picked up where Farrah had left off; Jennifer’s shag hairstyle became known as the Rachel Cut, for her character, Rachel Green. I must mention the 80s movies Blade Runner, with its cyberpunk styling, and Purple Rain, starring Prince, the pocket-rocket of fashion. The standout style movie of the 90s has to be Pulp Fiction. Uma Thurman’s brunette bob with fringe gave her a strange mystique. Then Amélie came out in 2001, with the captivating Audrey Tautou sporting a Parisian version of the bob. It became the must-have haircut, with clients bringing pictures of it into the salon. Nowadays, we’re all so techno-Internet-Google-cellphone-YouTubeMySpace-iPod savvy, maybe Blade Runner is the future. But fortunately for us, there will always be heads of hair to cut and colour. John Steinberg is the owner of Toronto’s John Steinberg & Associates. He’s currently celebrating 47 years in the beauty business and continues to be one of Canada’s premier style makers. Check out: www.johnsteinberghair.com.

may+june 07 < salon

105

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