Salon Magazine, May+June 2008 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

Talking demographics Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your client?

plus Fab Dadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day promos May+ June 08 $5 www.salon52.ca

8-12

5-5

NEW â&#x20AC;&#x201C; IGORA Vibrance Cool Purity

shades for GLACIAL color in the HEAT of SPRING/SUMMER 08. 9-1 and 9-4 7-36

5-36

7-12

5-12

IGORA VIBRANCE tone-on-tone color

“ COLOR is an emotional language.” It is a constant that every creative professional is touched by. IGORA Vibrance high performing ammonia-free tone-on-tone color is reliable and gentle for multiple color services. Whether adding a little bit of color to a shy client, blending away those first greys or counteracting brassy tones, IGORA Vibrance is a must for your salon.

Introducing 3 cool new shades ...

5-12

7-12

8-12

Cool metallic brunette

Sophisticated and strong dark blonde

Icy and crisp blonde

-12 Cendré-Ash… The latest in cool blondes and chilly brunettes from IGORA Vibrance.

DO YOU ShaDeS eQ? CeLeBRaTING 20 YeaRS OF aMaZING haIRCOLOR ShaDeS eQ eQUaLIZING CONDITIONING COLOR GLOSS

WHAT THE EXPERTS ARE SAying... “20 years later, the excitement surrounding Shades EQ hasn't faded one bit. Now, with more than 50 Shades in 16 tonal families, there's simply no limit to the possibilities. No wonder stylists vote Shades EQ the #1 long-lasting, no-ammonia, demi-permanent haircolor year after year.”* ANN MINCEY, Vice-President, Redken Global Communications “I've been using Shades EQ since 1988. I'll continue to use it because, the truth is, no other haircolor on the market can answer all the needs that Shades EQ can. Simply put, it can be used everywhere. Incorporating Shades EQ into your salon will be one of the best business decisions you ever make—I guarantee it!” DENNIS GEBHART, Gebhart International Haircolor Salon & Day Spa, California, USA

SHARE yOUR STORy AnD SHinE! Celebrate 20 years of amazing haircolor with Shades EQ! Just log on to facebook ®† and search for “Shades EQ”. Share your story by May 19, 2008 for a chance to win the grand prize of a trip to the Redken Exchange Toronto or one of 20 Redken gift packs. The top stories will also appear in Salon Magazine in the July/August issue. *behindthechair.com Stylist Choice Awards, 2001-2007 † The trademark facebook is owned by facebook, Inc.

T nEn R mA R E P i O DEm iRcOl

HA nORTH * in RicA AmE

First in Hair Technology and Innovation What makes a salon professional want to become a Great Lengths® hair extension artist? Why are Great Lengths® artists beaming with pride? What drives their passion? What fuels their loyalty?

First and foremost, it is and always has been “The quality of the hair”.

The Great Lengths® Difference With Great Lengths®, luxuriously thick volume, length and most colours can be achieved. The extensions will be virtually undetectable – by sight or touch – because Great Lengths® uses the smallest possible attachment sites. Extensions can be washed, blow-dried and styled and they will still look and feel fantastic. Only Great Lengths® can produce these stunning results. That’s because Great Lengths® uses only 100 percent, virgin-quality human hair that has never been chemically treated. All cuticle layers face the same direction, ensuring they will not tangle or become brittle like other extensions. And Great Lengths’ hair is depigmentized from the inside out – not bleached – so it can be coloured to blend in perfectly while still staying the finest quality.

Offer your clients the first step to luxurious, beautiful hair With Great Lengths®, the client leaves the salon looking and feeling glamorous, with lavishly gorgeous hair that won’t restrict either their lifestyle or day-to-day styling choices.

Undetectable, luxurious extensions Every aspect of the Great Lengths® process has been expertly developed to create the overall best results without damaging the client’s natural hair. To begin with, Great Lengths’ “professional only” services are exclusively available from Great Lengths® Certified Salons.

As seen on the world’s most beautiful women Just as the consumer carefully chooses her salon, Great Lengths® is highly selective in choosing which salons can offer Great Lengths’ services. Certification begins with a rigorous salon application process to ensure that Great Lengths’ services are only available from the most respected salon professionals.

Gorgeous hair – without compromise What this means for the consumer is that each stylist offering Great Lengths’ services has the skills to beautify her hair and achieve the famed Great Lengths’ result – without compromising the condition of her natural hair.

Call 800.461.9302 Or visit greatlengthshair.ca for certification opportunities nearest you

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO May 25-26 | June 22-23 July 20-21 | August 17-18 MONTREAL June 1-2 VANCOUVER July 6-7

EDMONTON May 4-5 CALGARY August 10-11

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.

l salon magazine

Contents may+june 08 W W W. s ALO n 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER Hair: Gary Hooker and Michael Young, Hooker & Young, UK Makeup: Kabuki Photography: Malcolm Willison Technique: Using Matrix colour, a dark red/brown was applied at the root, a blonde/ double red was applied in the middle section and a red pure tone was applied at the tip. Colour is placed over a graduated bob with internal layers. Hair was blow-dried to create movement at the ends.

ONTHE COVER 38

fab dad’s day promos

demographically speaking

Men Ideas for Father’s Day gifts

Feature A look at relating to four client groups—boomers, professional working women, teens and men—to everyone’s benefit

fEaTuREs 50

pass it on

shooting for contessa

connections

she comes in colours

earth’s edge

heads up!

key partners

solid gold

for the children

Three industry veterans talk about why they encourage their staff to enter the Contessas

Marca College and L’Oéal Professionnel offer photo shoot basics to students

Great websites for beauty pros

Antoinette Beender’s The Edge collection for the British Hairdressing Awards

Tips for happier clients

she CoMes in Colours

The value of your sales representative

Why you should join Redken and One X One in the fight against child poverty

> Contents Continue on Page 12

solid gold

TIGI piles on the pigment in new Urban Collection

La Biosthetique Paris reinvents disco-pop

salon > may+june 08

38 Fab dad’s day ProMos

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Give a Free Gift of Grooming Give your male clients a FREE 8.45oz Daily Conditioner* during the week of Father’s Day (June 8th–15th) with a qualifying salon service. Receive a free merchandising kit when you purchase 96 or more of these special edition bottles. Contact your American Crew® distributor for details. *Special purchase price for salons through participating distributors, while supplies last. ©2008 American Crew, Inc. All Rights Reserved www.americancrew.com

l salon magazine

regulars

Editor’s LEttEr

PubLishEr’s NotE

hairLiNEs Sun care regimes for clients p.18; A sneak peek at Salon International p.18; Environmentally friendly mannequins p.18; Tool time p.20; L'Oréal creates do for Luminato p. 21; La Biosthetique Paris International Beauty Stylist Awards p.21; Satin pillowcases help dos last longer p.21; Celebrating achievements in Chicago p.22; The Kaaral line from Italy has it all covered p.24

trENds

coLour

scENE American Crew’s 2008 Opening Night

coNtEssa GaLLErY Four Contessa 19 collections

saLoN52 May/June lineup

EsthEtics

NaiLs News and trends

taNNiNG A new generation

ProfiLE Toronto’s Kevyn Martell

82 84

iNtEriors Salon Montage and Day Lounge in Langley, BC

EVENts

86 89 98

scooP

Logical Art p.34; Custom Fusion p.36

inspired by day-to-day clients in the salon

contessa gallery

82 interiors

What every esthetician should know about acne

hot Products

PrEss Pass Last word by John Steinberg

salon > may+june 08

34 colour

40 scene

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12-PIECE CHIPBOARD DISPLAY

mod TOTALLY MOD-ERN SHADES WITH A BRIGHT TWIST! Lacquers shown, left to right: Dating a Royal, Green-wich Village, That’s Hot! Pink, Brights Power, The “It” Color, Mod-ern Girl

36-PIECE ACRYLIC DISPLAY

AVAILABLE IN BRIGHT MERCHANDISING OPTIONS

EDITOR’S lETTER

Web CheCk-in

PHOTO BABAK

he beauty of the World Wide Web is that it can take you places you haven’t been and provide a wealth of information on lots of topics in an instant. So with this in mind, if you haven’t done it lately, you really need to log onto www.salon52.ca and check out the most up-to-date news from the Canadian industry and the Contessas. In the past few months we have been working hard on expanding all areas of the website to bring you more information on educational events, products, collections, profiles and even video footage from Contessa 19, to name a few. In honour of the 20th anniversary, we’ve started a Contessa archive on salon52.ca. So far we have assembled the winners from almost all the previous Contessas. Watch for retrospectives throughout the coming months on previous winners and their collections. We were very excited to have a camera crew on hand at the Toronto and Vancouver ABA shows this year to record interviews for upcoming stories on salon52.ca as well as showcase immediate coverage of the ABA shows themselves. Regular visitors to our site have already enjoyed some of the new video coverage. If you were not able to make it out to those shows, you can now log on and check out the energy, vibe and action from this year. We recently wrapped up fine-tuning the rules and criteria for our new Contessa Business Excellence Award launching this year on the 20th anniversary of the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards. The application and various forms you need to enter a submission for the Business Excellence Award are now available at salon52.ca as well. There’s also a checklist to ensure you have included everything needed for your submission. Be sure to read all the requirements carefully, as all elements will be needed for the judging process. August 12 is the deadline for all Contessa entries. Finally, the newest kid on the block in the Canadian marketplace is Kaaral, a complete service line from Italy. Check out the story on this company’s offerings on page 24. And visit our website for more detailed information.

salon > may+june 08

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 17 issue 07

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com MAnAging Editor

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com contriButing Editor/MAnAging Editor (frEnch)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com

LET’S TALK CLIEnTS

Laura Dunphy Publisher salon > may+june 08

copy Editor

Francie Wyland sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

EditoriAl intErn

Alicia McAuley contriButors

Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright sEnior VicE-prEsidEnt/puBlishEr

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE puBlishEr

Cindy Mahabir > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | cindy@beautynet.com Account rEprEsEntAtiVE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com

circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

AccountAnt

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com prEsidEnt

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

suBscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USD AddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada sA l on MAg AZ in E Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

f there’s one topic or sector of the business world that has been written about more often than others, it’s the client. Just Google the term “client/customer service” and you’ll get over 32,000,000 websites! Building a clientele is challenging enough, but keeping it is paramount to your business success. Recognizing and learning as much as possible about your client is critical. As one business expert puts it, customers have more options than ever before and feel less loyal. Well, that should be a wake-up call! In this issue we’re taking a fresh new angle on the client. Understanding the different types of clients who walk through your door and meeting their unique needs is smart business. It’s called target marketing. Through our research, we give you a snapshot of four demographic client groups. We’ve broken them out as baby boomers, professional working women, teens and men. We’ve consulted three experts and have come up with lots of tips on relating to each group, retailing smarter to them and have lots of new suggestions for add-on services for each group. We hope to give you the tools to maximize services and products that speak directly to them. Another client relationship you may want to review is the one with your suppliers. Remember, you’re a client, too! This relationship is critical to your business and is often overlooked. Your distributors and sales consultants should be your BFFs! They understand the day-today challenges facing salon owners, and have been trained to offer a complete package of services. Today’s sales consultant is not about being a pushy salesperson. The good ones want to help you build a solid, successful business. Establishing regular meetings with your sales consultants and reviewing your account is crucial. Things like education, promotions and retailing strategies are just a few of the topics they can assist you with. The only thing they ask in exchange is your business. That’s a pretty fair deal! Check out Tina Christopoulos’s story on page 69 to learn more about the topic and some success stories. Send me your successful sales consultant story. Who knows? It just might make these pages or www.salon52.ca

AssociAtE Art dirEctor

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com

365 Bloor St. e. Suite 1902 toronto, oN M4w 3l4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

national Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

Top Five

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

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This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C a N a D a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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hairlines Are your clients still not sold on sun protection for their hair? Don’t wait until the damage is done. Get them going on a good sun care regime today.

Schwarzkopf Professional BC Sun Guardian A three-step hair therapy system, SKP’s Sun Guardian line delivers moisture, protection and repair to sun-stressed hair. To be used before, during and after sun exposure, this trio leaves hair shiny, manageable and frizz-free. While supplies last, Schwarzkopf is offering a gift-withpurchase promo, where clients picking up all three products receive a trendy shoulder bag. Visit www. schwarzkopf-professional.com.

salon > may+june 08

L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Solar Sublime Containing Mexoryl S.O., a UV-protective compound exclusive to L’Oréal Professionnel, this threeproduct line absorbs UV rays, transforming them into harmless warmth that cannot damage hair. Protection actually increases every time a product is used, as hair develops a protective barrier that reflects light. Visit www.lorealprofessionnel.com.

KMS California Solperfection After Sun Rescue An add-on to KMS’s popular Solperfection collection, the new After Sun Rescue treatment combines antioxidants, UV filters and hydrating ingredients to reverse damage caused by sun, sea and chlorine. Visit www.kmscalifornia.com.

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model Photo courtesy Kms california

fun in the sun

kin gets darker in the sun, but hair gets lighter. So what’s the difference? According to Dr. Aaron Shafer from Stanford University, a consultant for L’Oréal Professionnel, the answer revolves around melanin—the UV-protecting pigment in our skin that gives it its colour. “When exposed to sun, skin cells release chemicals that alert the body to produce more melanin. None of this can happen in hair, because hair is dead. So our hair has to take the full brunt of the sun without any defences,” he says. The result? An oxidized surface, a porous hair shaft and a degradation of keratin and melanin (which results in lighter colour). Worst of all, this type of damage can only really go away through re-growth. So before your clients come in with visible and tangible sun damage, have a little chat with them about sun care. Check out these professional lines for prevention and care for your clients this summer. —MA

Indola Innova Sun Active Packed with UVA and UVB filters, apricot kernel oil, panthenol and vitamin E, Innova Sun Active delivers smooth and silky hair. A shampoo, treatment, protective oil and gel make up this peach-fragranced line. Look out for Innova’s summer promo featuring a bright and sassy beach bag (available in two styles). Visit www.indola.com.

Redken UV Rescue Shimmering Defense The newest member of Redken’s UV Rescue line (includes shampoo, conditioner and leave-in oil), Shimmering Defense is a leave-in daily protective lotion designed for year-round use. Including Redken’s exclusive C2 Solar Complex, it filters out UVA and UVB light, energizes hair with vitamin C, restores with ceramide and moisturizes with glycerin. Visit www.redken.ca.

La Biosthetique Methode Soleil Highly conditioning and with a fresh summer scent, La Biosthetique’s Methode Soleil line absorbs light and deactivates the free radicals produced by UV rays. It includes a shampoo, a spray-on lotion, a hair cream and hairspray. Visit www. labiosthetique.de.

Framesi Morphosis Sunrise Infused with prickly pear extract, known for its moisturizing power and high vitamin C and calcium content, this three-product line (shampoo, conditioning mask and protective spray-on treatment) protects and regenerates hair from sun, wind, seawater, chlorine and frequent washing. Visit www. framesi.it or www.hairsource.ca/framesi.

Matrix Biolage Sunsorials Matrix’s Biolage Sunsorials line, which is made up of an After-Sun Shampoo, a Sun Repair Treatment and a Protective Daily Mist, is formulated to protect against sun, pool and seawater. Perfect for both natural and coloured hair, the Sunsorials range is formulated with ingredients like sunflower seed extract and is rich in anti-oxidants and UV filters. Visit www.matrix.com.

Enviro Snap

Salon International Sneak Peak Once again, some of the most creative names in the industry will be offering presentations during Salon International in London from October 18 to 20. Early notable names for the Salon Live theatre include Patrick Cameron, Vidal Sassoon, Toni & Guy and Tim Hartley. If it’s pure education you’re looking for, Mahogany will once again be presenting its signature looks and future trends at the Salon Seminars. On Sunday, Salon Business Extra provides a full-day program designed to inspire, educate and motivate. For more information, visit the Salon International website at www.salonexhibitions.co.uk—SP

Designed to be the most environmentally conscious mannequin on the market, the Snap Cap from Pivot Point International features a single reusable headform and hairpieces that can be removed and replaced as needed. Pivot Point marketing director Ken Angermeier believes that the Snap Cap, the only mannequin of its kind on the market, will address the industry’s need to be more environmentally conscious. For more information, visit pivot-point.com or www.salon52.ca.—AM

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may+june 08 < salon

tool time

hairlines

Name Crisace Mini Tourmaline Travel Ionic Iron Features > Travel-size, lightweight flatiron > One-centimetre wide ceramic plates > Low power consumption > Heats to 450ÂşF > Seals cuticle and eliminates frizz Go to www.crisace.com

Name Wahl Military Series Dryer Features > Tourmaline technology to reduce drying time and static > Six heat settings, two speed settings > Removable metal filter for easy cleaning > Ergonomic handle > Lightweight, low-noise AC motor lasting about1,500 hours > Three-metre cord > Also available in leopard and zebra prints Go to www.wahlpro.com

Name Product Club ColorWhip Electric Colour Mixer Features > Blends any colour to creamy consistency in seconds > Provides consistent quality formulas for easy and effective colour services > Three mixing cycles of 45, 60 or 75 seconds > Eliminates splattering and pungent fumes > Includes one mixer, four bowls and five brushes > Easy clean-up Go to www.productclub.com

Name FHI Heat Nano Weight Pro 1900 Turbo Dryer Features > Weighs only 360 grams > Tourmaline technology cuts drying time and seals in moisture > FHIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nano-Fuzion technology adds shine to hair > Two speed settings and three heat settings > Long-life motor > Ergonomically curved handle > Low EMF > Easy to open screen vent allows for easy cleaning Go to www.fhiheat.com

salon > may+june 08

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Ballet Beauty L’Oréal Professionnel creates the official hairdo of the Luminato festival

toronto art and creative mega-festival Luminato is back for its second year. in partnership with the L’oréal group, this year’s festival will include a special hair-focused fundraiser in support of the national ballet school and alberta ballet. offering a unique menu of ballerinainspired updos, top L’oréal professionnel artists across the city will be styling hair to raise funds for the cause throughout the festival, from June 6 to 17. for more info visit www.luminato.com.—ma

top right photos courtesy L’oréaL professionneL; bottom right photo courtesy La biosthetique paris

Taking It Global

Dream Hair

rom curly to straight and back again, television host Hina Khan spends much of her quality time in a salon chair. Now she’s making her debut in the world of hair care with Good Hair Dayz—an exclusive line of luxurious satin pillowcases. “When women have spent a lot of money on their hair, it’s a great investment for them to maintain what they’ve had done,” says Khan, whose pillowcases help preserve the life of hair extensions, set-in curls or a good blow dry. Perfect for the salon that wants to offer clients a little something special, each charmeuse satin case is made exclusively in Canada and is machine washable. For more information visit www.goodhairdayz.com.—AM

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Seeking international recognition and a chance to shoot in Paris? This contest’s for you! For the first time, Canadian and British hairstylists are eligible to enter in the La Biosthetique Paris International Beauty Stylist Awards. Any stylist working in a La Biosthetique salon can enter by sending two different portrait photos of their model (front and side view) whose hairstyle was created using only La Biosthetique products, by July 31. Judges are looking for trendsetting, creative hairstyles that honour La Biosthetique’s Total Beauty philosophy in cut, colour and styling as well as an impressive overall photograph. A jury of magazine editors and top European hairstylists will select a national winner from each country who will have their images published in INSIDE magazine. They will also receive marketing support for salon advertising, a trip to Paris for a photo and styling workshop with Sally Brooks at La Biosthetique’s International headquarters, and take part in a photo shoot with a professional model. National winners will be invited to La Biosthetique’s Congress in Berlin on April 26, 2009, where awards will be given out in two categories. A professional award will be based on judging by an internationally renowned stylist of the photos taken at the Paris shoot. Another award will be based on a winner selected by the readers of the German magazine IN. For more information on this contest, visit www.labiosthetique.com or call 514.363.2994. –TC

may+june 08 < salon

hairlines

Legendary Honours Celebrating achievements in Chicago

Colour Gel MC College president Joe Cairo and Pivot Point Canada president Dino Cairo with Leo and Lenie Passage at the L.E.O. awards presentation.

he National Cosmetology Association (NCA) hosted the third annual International Legends Ball on March 1, 2008, in conjunction with America’s Beauty Show in Chicago. Chaired by industry luminaries Sam Brocato and Lydia Sarfati, the international beauty gathering proved the perfect occasion to honour two beauty entrepreneurs who have touched the lives of salon professionals around the globe. Over 800 beauty industry notables gathered to celebrate the achievements of Leo Passage, founder of Pivot Point International, as well as Paula Kent Meehan, founder of Redken and the Salon Global Business Awards. Pivot Point International also used the occasion to launch the L.E.O. Awards, taking the name from the company’s celebrated founder. They stand for Leadership in the salon industry, Excellence in designer education and Outstanding Pivot Point graduate. The six 2008 L.E.O. Awards recipients are Joseph Cartagena, owner, Genacelli Salon & Spa, Chicago, IL; Mary Beth Janssen, owner, The Janssen Source, Palatine, IL; David Raccuglia, founder, American Crew; Manuel Rodriguez, international educator; Christine Schuster, senior vice-president of education for Redken Fifth Avenue NYC/PureOlogy; and Andre Walker, hairstylist to Oprah Winfrey for 24 years. As Founder and chairman of the board of Pivot Point International, Leo Passage is credited with changing the concepts behind cosmetology education by shattering the myth that successful designers must be born with artistic ability. His “scientific approach” to cosmetology is rooted in the Bauhaus theory and based on a unique harmony between science, technology and art. In 1962, Leo founded Pivot Point International with five students and one classroom. Today, there are 2,000 Pivot Point member schools in 50 countries. —SP

1. 8 0 0 . 5 5 7. 3 2 2 3 BC

1. 8 8 8 . 8 5 9 . 3 4 3 4 CENTR AL & E AST

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salon > may+june 08

(L-R) Legends Ball co-chairs Sam Brocato and Lydia Sarfati, honoree Leo Passage and NCA president Marlene Bridge w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

INDIVIDUAL HAIR AND SCALP CARE

CUTTING & COLOURING INSPIRATIONS

STYLING PRODUCTS

MAKE-UP INSPIRATIONS

PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOURING SYSTEM

BUSINESS CONSULTATION ADAPTED TO HAIRDRESSING SALONS

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

INDIVIDUAL SALON AND MARKETING SUPPORT

For your nearest LA BIOSTHETIQUE distributor call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (800) 661-1424 MAKE-UP

www.labiosthetique.com

OUTSTANDING EDUCATION

hairlines

Complete Care The Kaaral line from Italy has everything covered

salon > may+june 08

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photos courtesy kaaral

he latest addition to the marketplace is the Kaaral line of products from Italy. Brought to Canada by Europa Beauty Supplies, Kaaral offers the salon everything from colour and XFORM is a complete hair care program for severely damaged overdaily care to repair, styling and sun care. Europa Beauty co-owner Joe processed hair. The line contains a shampoo, rinse-out conditioner and a Romeo says, “I discovered some of the products in the mid-90s. I was so leave-in conditioner as well as a repair lotion that penetrates deep within impressed with their performance that I researched the complete line, the hair fibre to return body, volume and shine. because I wanted to use them in my salon.” That was the beginning. Perfectly, Kaaral’s 20-product styling line, finishes the look to satisfy “Over time, other salons expressed an interest and we started supplying every client. From volumizing foams and sprays to glosses, gels, them, so we formed Europa Beauty. This spring Kaaral decided to officially straightening creams and waxes, this line has something for every style. launch the line within the Canadian marketplace and expand operations And finally, styling line PinkUp adds that touch of glamour. It’s a brand here.” Here’s an overview of the Kaaral line. new line launched this year with nine styling products for everything from Sense Colours permanent colour line consists of 95 shades enriched smooth, straight, sleek hair to big, voluminous hair. with aloe vera and coconut oil as well as pro-vitamin B5. It offers complete For more information, salons in the greater Toronto area can call Leap grey coverage and includes completely dust-free bleach powders. Easy Importing at 416.571.3642. In northern Ontario, call Forma Beauty Supplies Soft Colours is an ammonia-free demi-permanent line with 31 shades. at 807.628.6884. For all other areas and for distributor opportunities call And rounding out the pack is Pop-up, the direct pigment line, with six Europa Beauty at 519.578.7013—SP shades including ocean blue, pink, magenta, violet, deep red and orange KO5 styling line for those fashion shades that daring clients like to try. Main home-care line Purify offers six different shampoos and four conditioners for everything from fine to curly to colourtreated hair. With names like energy, relax, careful and balance, Purify shampoos contain extremely delicate surfactants designed to solve the specific problems of a variety of hair types. Essential Sun is a four-product line for summer to help keep hair in optimum condition. It consists of a shampoo, conditioner, a protective gel and protective oil, both with UV filters. All four products contain vitamins A, E and C in an advanced anti-aging formula. PinkUp styling line Specialty line K05 treats conditions like dandruff, oily scalp and hair loss. A very popular line for the Kaaral, K05 contains a tea tree oil base that assists in treating all three scalp conditions. Purify line

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Participate and get the W\UbWY cZ U `]ZYh]aY to experience the

5`hYfbUh]jY <U]f G\ck ]b @cbXcb 9b[`UbX with your salon’s stylists! *Certain conditions apply. See your ISO sales consultant or distributor for participation details.

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Save Money! Register before June 2nd at www.IBSlasvegas.com or 800-496-9861

INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW Formerly Las Vegas Hair & Nail Conference

June 28-30, 2008 Las Vegas Convention Center

This Is One Hair & Nail Conference You Won’t Want To Miss! More than 200 of the ﬁnest hair and nail suppliers Expanded educational opportunities—125 classes • Energizing and inspiring Main Stage performances • Amazing competitions for nail technicians • •

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Expanded course offerings in 2008! Choose from more than 125 classes and seminars on a variety of topics and trends. Exciting and educational classes including: HAIR & STYLING CLASSES

SALON MANAGEMENT CLASSES

Gibson Era Collection — Gary Gerard, Gerard’s International Advanced Haircutting Seminars

Success by Color — Jamie Klatt, Milady

Certiﬁcation Training — Biage, Keratin Complete Hair Therapy All The Rage with Color — ESBI Team Imagination 2008 — Fernando Salas, White Sands Design Techniques For Long Hair — Martin Parsons, Intermar Productions Clipper Cutting & Razor Cutting — Jim Jones, Eagle International Seminars

Financial Statements: Know Your Numbers — Larry Kopsa, Kopsa Otte Employee vs Booth Renter: How do I Choose? Or Do I Want Both? — Ken Cassidy, Kassidy’s Salon Management Consultants Double Your Income Now! — Lauren Gartland Inspiring Champions 90 Minute Workout to Proﬁtability — April Poster, Milady

INSPIRATIONAL / LIFE ENRICHING CLASSES

NEW FOR 2008!

Making Money With Hair Extensions — Sam Parker, Donna Bella Milan

Life by Design, Making the Changes You Need and Want — April Poster, Milady

TOP NOTCH NAIL CLASSES

A Hairdresser’s Guide to Excellence – Personally, Professionally & Financially — Jon Gonzales, Hairdressers Career Development

The Hydration Therapy Anti-Aging Spa Manicure — Valerie Clark, Nail Tek New EZ Flow High Deﬁnition – Pink and White Acrylic — Allison Baker, EZ Flow Nail Art — Jayne Berger, Light Elegance

How to Create Balance in Life — Angel Haag, Primeco Consulting The Passionate Salon Professional — Joe Santy, Dennis Bernard

Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Using an Electric File — Karen Mayer, Medicool Common Sense Sanitation for Nail Techs — Vicki Peters, Vicki Peters Products

The Art of Custom Blending: Complement & Camouﬂage — Kristina Baune, CND

A complete schedule can be found at www.IBSlasvegas.com

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Relaxology Massage for Pedicures — Vickie Maher, Poshe’

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11:00AM – 6:00PM 10:00AM – 7:00PM 10:00AM – 4:00PM

Collection: Dazzle Hair: Gary Hooker and Michael Young, Hooker & Young, UK Makeup: Kabuki Photos: Malcolm Willison

salon > may+june 08

bang on

trends

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Violet light

trends

Collection: Italian Energy and Style, Framesi spring/summer 2008 Hair: Framesi International artistic team Photos: courtesy Framesi

salon > may+june 08

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colour

Logical art Everyone loves a good comeback, and the re-birth of Logics is going to be a big one By Morella Aguirre

“

ogics is a line for true colourists. It’s not for people who simply apply colour to clients. It’s for real artists,” says Joe Muro, national business development manager for Logics. Originally introduced two decades ago as a pure tone colour line for custom services, Logics is being re-launched in Canada in May as a complete offering for custom colour services. Still based on its signature pure tone colour, today’s expanded Logics line also includes a wet and styling line as well as an anti-aging range that can be prescribed to clients with visible signs of stressed or damaged hair. All products are now also infused with the new DNA system, a conditioning complex that means Dual Nourishing System in the colour line and Dual Net Affinity in the wet and styling lines.

The Colour Component As a pure tone line, Logics colour contains no base tones, meaning each colour is true to its name and that each formula a colourist mixes

salon > may+june 08

can be completely customized to suit a particular client. “A red is a red and a copper is a copper,” explains Muro. “It’s like a palette that can be blended together to achieve any colour that’s envisioned—much like an artist’s paints.” The result is very precise colour formulas. “If I’m working with brown hair, I don’t need to use a brown base, which may drab the colour,” says Muro. “And with grey hair, I can create a colour formula specific to the percentage of grey hair a client has.” Warm and cool tones can be easily controlled in blondes, creating anything from the perfect neutralized natural blonde to a cool, icy platinum. “Colour can be customized to everything: a client’s skin tone, eye colour, personality—anything, really,” explains Muro. Logics colour includes 46 permanent shades and three primary concentrates. A digitally calibrated formulation process guarantess that the 32-shade demi-permanent line complements the permanent shades tone for tone. The DNA System delivers extreme conditioning during the colouring process.

The Wet and Styling Line Eleven products make up the basic series, including two shampoo options (a nourishing and a clarifying shampoo), a conditioner, a leave-in protector, a serum and a range of stylers. The DNA System, a two-tier feature that removes colour-fading impurities and protects hair with UV filters, humidity protectors and a shot of high-shine polish, prolongs the life of colour services.

The Anti-Aging System The Age Revitalize line from Logics rounds out the system. With shampoos and conditioners customized for either normal to slightly dry or dry, damaged hair, Age Revitalize replenishes hair with signs of aging. Colourists can prescribe it to clients until hair is revitalized, at which point they can switch to the regular colour preserve line. S Go to www.salon52.ca for an exclusive video interview with Joe Muro of Logics.

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colour

Custom fusion It’s rare to see six little colours create so much hype. But then again, Redken’s new Hi-Fusion shades are anything but ordinary. By Morella Aguirre

NEW CATEgORY

SalOn BUSinESS EXCEllEnCE aWard Recognizing outstanding business strategies

CONTESSA

Entry dEadlinE AuguST 12, 2008 Applications at www.salon52.ca

salon > may+june 08

hat sets your colour services apart from your competitor’s? What do you offer to your clients that others don’t? Many top colourists emphasize that in today’s tough marketplace, special attention to a customer’s individual needs and wants is a major tool for client retention. It’s the dawning of the age of customized colour services, they say, when salon-goers come in armed with demands and stylists are expected to deliver. Not surprisingly, manufacturers are stepping up to the challenges of this new era, and Redken 5th Avenue NYC is in the vanguard of the custom colour movement. Redken’s latest colour launch, six new pure tone shades in the Hi-Fusion line, may not sound like a huge offering at first, but in reality nothing could be further from the truth. The potential these pure tones give colourists is huge. They could mean the difference between offering a client exactly what she’s looking for and something that’s just close to what she wanted. Dennis Gebhart, a seasoned colourist, salon owner and global artist for Redken, was one of the first to experiment with the latest Hi-Fusion shades—the new orange, yellow, green, blue, violet and chrome tones. (The existing shades are red, red/copper, red/violet and violet/red.) Gebhart sums up the benefits of Hi-Fusion in two words: enhance and control. He explains that with simple, user-friendly

formulas and ratios, adding Hi-Fusion pure-tones to Redken’s Color Fusion line can easily boost pigments and allow a stylist to manage hard-toachieve results. “Most permanent colour lines only contain a certain amount of pigment, which sometimes isn’t enough to control the warmth on naturally dark hair,” says Gebhart. For example, if a client has dark brown hair but would like a lighter version of that colour, you may run into difficulty controlling the warmth that the hair’s natural pigments will contribute. In this case, adding a Hi-Fusion green or blue to your colour formula will help balance out the abundance of warm tones, resulting in a colour that is truer to the shade your client is demanding. A similar logic applies when darkening hair. “When you put any colour, even a natural shade, over very light hair, you run the risk of the colour coming out flat. By adding a small amount of Hi-Fusion yellow to a natural series, you’ll create a brighter look and prevent flat or opaque hues,” explains Gebhart. “And when blondes want to stay blonde but want that icy, cool look, you can achieve that with a bit of Hi-Fusion chrome.” Then, of course, there’s the option to create pure-tone highlights. “Blue hair is huge in Vancouver among the Asian crowd,” says Gebhart. “So here’s a way to achieve the look and have it actually be retained in the hair.” Learn more at www.salon52.ca. S

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men

Fab Dad’s Day promos

ith Father’s Day on the horizon, people will be looking for the perfect gift to make him smile and help him look his best. Nothing’s better than fantastic professional products made

especially for his needs, and these promotional packs make it simple for your clients and profitable for you.—SP

Fix it Kit

From Quantum comes this pre-packed kit in a sleek reusable case for toiletries or other knick-knacks Dad might want to store. Each one contains one 500 ml FIX IT industrialstrength gel, plus free 50 ml SMOOTH OPERATOR shave cream and a 50 ml BODY BUILDER thickening liquid. The promotion represents a 25 per cent savings. Call 800.267.4676

Fore Free!

In the Bag

With the purchase of RVB’s BE_MAN antiaging face moisturizer and anti-stress eye gel, your clients receive this attractive men’s travel toiletry bag free. Available through Intercosmetics at 800.263.4333

Hot Papa Boxed In

Clients save 23 to 33 per cent when they purchase the Redken for Men box sets of Go Clean Shampoo and one styling product. For more info call 1.866.9REDKEN

salon > may+june 08

Woody’s Red Hot Papa gift collection for Father’s Day features Woody’s Body and Laundry Deodorant Spray, Woody’s Daily Shampoo and Foaming Shave Gel. The kit also comes with a BBQ Brush for when he mans the grill. Go to www.aiibeauty.com for more details.

The Perfect Golf Duo! Clients who buy a Matrix Men Clean Rush Shampoo and any Matrix Men styling product get three Matrix Men golf balls free of charge. Promotion runs from May while stocks last. See your local Matrix distributor sales consultant.

Shave Duo

American Crew salons will have several promotions to choose from this year. This dynamic pairing features Crew’s two newest products, Precision Shave Gel and PostShave Cooling Lotion. Clients can experience the luxury of the American Crew shaving system. Contact your American Crew sales representative for details.

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SCENE

Runway Text by Stephen Puddister Runway photos Mark Liddall Collection photos Tim Tucker

merican Crew rocked the runway in Chicago on March 1 with a fabulous Opening Night extravaganza attended by hundreds of stylists and distributors from across the globe. The leading manufacturer of grooming products for men presented its 2008 trend collection this year during America’s Beauty Show (ABS) to a sell-out crowd of industry professionals. The evening kicked off with a lively cocktail party and moved into a high-energy testosterone-filled runway show featuring the latest looks in hair and fashion for men. The audience was treated to eight delightful segments showcasing the following trends: American Gothic, the goth era meets a serious sense of sci-fi; Rat Pack, classic Crew meets the modern-day Dean Martin; Jeremiah, gritty and rugged western frontiersmen; Ralph Machismo, think Dirty Rotten Scoundrels in flip-flops; Duckie Brown, featuring the 2008-09 fall/winter collection created by Steven Cox and Daniel Silver; New Folk, a homage to Bob Dylan that was inspired by the movie I’m Not There (in which American Crew products were used); One Night Only, the annual one-time-only presentation of avant-garde looks; and Matic, the debut of American Crew’s 2008 collection showcasing gravity-defying hair reminiscent of the 80s, mixed with lots of texture. For more on this story, subscribe to the salon52 newsletter at www.salon52.ca. S

salon > may+june 08

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may+june 08 < salon

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

From Clients to Contessa Stylists find Contessa inspiration in their day-to-day clientele Edited by Morella Aguirre

Bridal Path Giancarlo Intini creates timeless beauty in his Contessa 19 collection Brides are a huge market for me. And I know that when it comes to bridal makeup, there are no rules. Some clients want to look very glamorous and divalike, others will say they want to look as if they’re not wearing any makeup at all. It’s really a very individual thing. So for this collection, I wanted to create something with a timeless quality and with versatility in the hair. I call this style “editorial bridal,” a concept that is magazine-friendly and involves the complete look of a photo, including hair, makeup and wardrobe. It’s different than the traditional or salon bridal look because it is less decorative, containing little or no ornamental pieces like tiaras, twists and the like.

salon > may+june 08

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20 CONTESSA

Hair and makeup:

Giancarlo Intini, Ford, Photos: Tom Ma

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may+june 08 < salon

Aurora, Ontario

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

The Cool Kids Jillian Clapham gets motivated by the music scene Most of my work is inspired by music. Here, I turned to the music scene for ideas while working with looks that are relevant right now, like the whole androgynous female-versusmale trend. Two of my models really focus on this: the guy, who has a very British look, and the blonde girl, who has a very masculine, Billy Idol-type style. The third model, the girl with the bowl cut, plays less on the androgynous theme. Her style references the rounded cuts made famous by the Ramones but still current and popular in today’s music scene. This is actually how I cut this girl’s hair months before the shoot. It’s her actual hairstyle, which is probably why she wears it so well in the photograph.

salon > may+june 08

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20 CONTESSA

Hair: Jillian Clapham,

produced at Vault Salon and Spa, Winnipeg Photos: Rhello Yorobe

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may+june 08 < salon

Makeup: Jocelyn Caballero

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Hair: Stacey Staley, Blonde, Toronto Makeup: Craig Ryan French Models: Giovanni Inc. Photos: Doug McMillan

Men’s Market Stacey Staley finds style in the men in her life I have always found it difficult to draw inspiration and relate to typical men’s collections. So I began looking at the men in my life who I consider to be well put together and stylish. The common element I found among these very different men was a combination of cool individualism and classic styling. I also looked to a lot British stylists for inspiration, since they tend to be good at producing clean, beautiful hair shots. Keeping all this in mind, I arrived at my photo shoot with a minimal amount of product and tools. I styled and sculpted with my hands and used no ironing and minimal blow drying. I thought of my boyfriend. If he wouldn’t use a technique on his hair, then I knew I couldn’t use it either.

salon > may+june 08

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Nails: Jennifer Bennet, Hair Factory, St. John’s, Newfoundland Makeup: Veronica Chu Photos: Doug McMillan

20 CONTESSA

Free Edge Jennifer Bennett gets edgy with her Contessa 19 collection The word I’ve been using all along to describe this collection is “edgy.” Last year I focused on a softer, gentler look. This year I wanted something stronger—I wanted to go in a different direction. I shared models with the team at Hair Factory, so I was able to include hands, face and some hair in the photographs. With one model, the girl with the dark blue-purple nails, I used her hair colour as inspiration, which worked really well because dark blues and purples are really in style for nails this year. In terms of challenges, I always find it difficult to come up with new poses for hand and nail photographs. I think about it constantly before a shoot, and often the whole team gets involved in brainstorming.

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may+june 08 < salon

gold sponsors s i lve r sponsors

CELEBRATING TWO

DECADES

BEAUTY

HAIR EDWIN JOHNSTON COLOUR FIONA JOHNSTON MAKEUP KRISTEN COUTU PHOTO BABAK CONTESSA 19

CONTESSA ENTRY DEADLINE AuGuST 12, 2008 THE

CANADIAN

HAIRSTYLIST

OF THE YEAR

AWA R D S

INTRODUCING

S A L O N B U S I N E S S E X C E L L E N C E AWA R D G o t o w w w. s a l o n 5 2 . c a f o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n .

Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prestigious professional beauty awards Find the complete entry package in the April issue of Salon Magazine, or call 416.869.3131 ext. 105, or download the entry form at salon52.ca

TonY rICCI Contessa 19 winner Alberta Hairstylist of the Year Photo: Peter Morneau

Pass It On

It’s great for business and amazing for morale. But don’t take our word for it. Here, three Contessa veterans explain why they encourage their teams to enter the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards. Edited by Morella Aguirre

Lenny Ferri Salon Verve, Maple, Ontario 2005 Salon Team of the Year and Ontario Hairstylist of the Year “Clients pay for confidence, and I find that entering the Contessas builds confidence in young staff. Something as simple as sharing photos with clients helps gain trust—the kind of trust you need to command a higher price point and work beyond a junior rate.

sAlon vErvE Contessa 16 winner salon Team of the Year Photo: Babak

salon > may+june 08

“Also, entering builds character and increases morale at the salon. When you enter as a team, it’s no longer just about the owner—it becomes about everyone. And if someone can say to their clients that they ranked as one of the top five newcomer hairstylists in all of Canada, that’s huge. It’s the type of advertising that you can’t put a price on. “A lot of the encouraging I do is emotional. Yes, when a stylist is on set shooting a collection, I’m always there offering advice if they need it—which is great time spent with my younger staff—but for the most part it’s about helping them build confidence. Stylists are afraid to fail. My job is to let them know that it’s really a win-win situation.” w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

20 CONTESSA

Tony Ricci Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alberta 2008, 2007 and 2004 Alberta Hairstylist of the Year

“Competition develops our skills. It teaches us balance and form and about keeping our work clean and in proportion. It also creates a hunger to succeed, or ignites a spark to push yourself further. “As a salon owner or manager, you need to be a leader and motivate your team. For me, entering the Contessas and taking my staff to the gala in Toronto helps do that. They feel the enthusiasm of the night. And once staff start entering, it creates a sense of healthy competition that keeps everyone thinking creatively. “My top advice for young stylists is to take it slowly. I suggest hiring a student photographer the first time they shoot, just to keep the cost at a minimum. As they progress, they can start investing more money.”

Hair Factory contessa 18 winner Salon team of the year Photo: Doug McMillan

Dale abboTT Hair Factory, St. John’s, Newfoundland 2007 Salon Team of the Year

“Entering the Contessas has become part of our culture at Hair Factory. We love it because it keeps us researching and constantly talking about hair and trends. For us, it’s a real team effort. As a team, it’s great to have a common goal where absolutely everyone gets involved. We all brainstorm for our collection and gather research material. The junior staff and the assistants always get involved and want to learn from senior staff. We choose models together, get input from one another and get together as a group to select the photos for our Salon Team entry. “We’ve been very fortunate at Hair Factory. We’ve always had people who excel at channelling themselves creatively without letting their ego get in the way.” S

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may+june 08< salon

20 CONTESSA

Shooting for Contessa

L’Oréal Professionnel and Marca College pass on photo shoot basics By Alicia McAuley

grey winter backdrop wasn’t enough to squash the creative spirit of three talented Marca College students who gathered at the L’Oréal Academy on March 13 for their first Contessa photo shoot. Teaming with portfolio artist for L’Oréal Professionnel Brennen DeMelo, the students—Justin Teixeira, Robyn Hancock and Paola “Lita D” Da Costa—showcased their talent with a series of three looks inspired by a specific theme. Though the focus was certainly on the hair, there was also an emphasis on creating an all-over fashion feel. “It’s not just a hair shoot,” explains DeMelo. “It’s a fashion shoot for hair.” The three students were awarded the opportunity to participate in a six-week course with L’Oréal Professionnel after winning a competition in November that required them to complete a creative cut and colour in only two hours. The idea of the competition was a joint effort between regional education manager for L’Oréal Professionnel Luisa Ventura and Marca College’s Joey Chimenti. “I thought it would be a great opportunity,” says Ventura. “These are up-and-coming hairstylists. We thought it was a really great incentive for students to take their experience to another level.” As for the students, they have nothing but rave reviews for the L’Oréal program. “I feel like they’ve opened the door,” says Teixeira. “They’ve taught me that the sky’s the limit in this industry. I like the fact that they really cared about our ideas.” In addition to coming up with a unique concept, the students were responsible for every aspect of the shoot, from models to makeup artists. “The students deserve all the credit,” says Chimenti. “L’Oréal and Marca, we provided the education, but they had the talent. They’re amazing.” For more information about Marca College, visit www.marcacollege.ca. S

salon > may+june 08

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w w w. s a l o n 5 2 . c a COLLECTIONS > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES+PROFILES > JOBS > EVENTS > CONTESSA 54

salon > may+june 08

+ MORE

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Demographically Speaking

Who’s your client?

By Stephen Puddister

ou know all clients are not created equal. But are your services and sales skills really reflecting that? More and more, the professional beauty industry is realizing the power behind customized services, niche product lines and

targeted sales strategies. Because, to paraphrase the famous saying, you can’t please all the people all the time—at least not by offering the same products and service

jupiterimages

menus to everyone who walks into your salon. With this in mind, we decided to examine four market segments—baby boomers, professional working women, teens catering to each group more successfully.

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and men—and with the help of some experts we uncovered some of the best ways of

may+june 08 < salon

Baby Boomers Let’s be clear, the most growth potential for the beauty industry lies in the baby boomer market. Research shows that they hold around 60 per cent of all disposable income in North America today. When it comes to treating themselves, they want a quality experience and they have the bucks to buy it. Furthermore, they love to buy for their friends and family, too.

Relating

Baby Boomers

“Boomers are redefining the art of getting old,” says James Morrison, international artistic director for TIGI. “It’s not the same as our parents getting old. They are all about “looking good is feeling good.” Selling to them is not difficult—they want self-gratification, vitality and vibrancy. They love to trade up, so any products or services that make them feel better about themselves are great.” “First of all, you need to determine if your boomer client is more health- or vanityfocused,” says Tanya Chernova, consultant for L’Oréal Professionnel. “Is it more important to preserve their natural greying hair and make it healthy, or go with fabulous colour? How much time do they want to spend on their hair? Do they want an easy wash and go or do they want to dress it up more? How long has it been since they changed their look? These things all start a conversation that can help you determine where to take things.” Stephanie McFarlane from Salon Consultants International says, “With boomers you should be peppering your language with words like ‘youth injection.’ That way you are addressing the needs of their aging hair. Everyone knows that as hair ages, it can become coarser, less shiny, thinner and lose pigmentation. Talking about these things will show the client you are sensitive to their needs. We know that colour plumps the hair, making it appear thicker and softer. And it smoothes the cuticle, making it more light-reflective. With the plethora of professional products that cater to aging hair these days, there are lots of care options, too.”

Retailing

Professional Women 56

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Morrison says, “If clients say they would like to have you do their hair at home every day, it’s because they need more information on how to recreate the look at home. This makes teaching them how to use

the product while you have them in the chair key. That also goes for using the dryer and brush properly. It’s a great way to engage the clients for buying. If your client buys products, you have a higher degree of client retention. Industry stats show this.” According Chernova, “Changes in style will mean a change in styling products. So ask them what products they have at home to maintain this look. Remember that asking if they’re running out of anything is the wrong question. Try getting them to bring in all their products twice a year to review what they are using. This can be done with all clients in slow times, like just after the holidays. Put a bin out so that when there are things they don’t need any longer, you can suggest donating them to a shelter.” McFarlane suggests the prescriptive experience. “This group has the disposable income, so it is more about prescribing the right products for them.”

add-on SeRviceS “Anything to do with de-stressing and health-oriented services at the back bar like scalp or neck massages are things that boomers or professional women love,” says Morrison. And he’s right—the boomer has the time, and the professional woman just deserves it. Chernova recommends the buddy system of services. For example, offer an intense repairing treatment with a complimentary head massage, or a purifying hair treatment with a detoxifying scalp massage. While they are getting colour, ask if they want their nails done. You simply have to think of things that will go together. The hair treatment is the best friend of the scalp massage—they go together. The colour application is the best friend of a new esthetician building her clientele. A speed varnish is the best friend of a blow dry. The list goes on. You are only as limited as you want to be.

Professional Women This is probably the client who has the most hectic schedule. The average working professional woman is struggling to balance travel, work and the demands of the latest fashion trends at the office with raising a family.

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Relating “The professional woman is all about maintaining her look,” says Morrison. “So consistency in pre-booking her is key. She is happy when she gets the appointment time she needs, so never let her leave the salon without booking the next one. Pre-booking is the way you create a waiting list for your services. The harder it is to get something, the more demand there is for it.” Chernova suggests talking about how much your clients travel and whether they need a style that is easy to deal with on the road. Also, “Do they want to convey a certain image? A woman who works in the financial district may like a more feminine look to balance her tough business exterior. Do they prefer the latest trends or are they happier with a more natural look? Do they want to look youthful or put together and polished? You and a clothing person help them put that together.” “The professional woman needs her colour,” says McFarlane. “For a lot of them, the difference is getting them out of the drugstore and into the salon to address the difference in results from drugstore to salon colour. Retailing

Teens and Tweens

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Morrison feels that professional women need to be given a regimen that maintains the look they have, so you have to give them the specifics. “Products that help cut the styling time are critical for them,” he says. Since pharmacy products are so well explained in TV ads, Chernova is adamant that stylists need to do the same with professional products. This way, clients will be easily convinced when you explain the difference. “Connect the retail product to the final results a woman wants,” says McFarlane. “They need to know what this product is going to do for them, which is help the colour last longer and keep it healthy-looking till they come back again.”

add-on seRvices McFarlane feels that the best add-on services for professional women are treatments at the sink. “They seem to love that head massage, so suggesting a treatment to go along with it will probably make her even happier,” she says.

“A professional woman will love compliments on her great-looking nails,” adds Chernova. This goes back to the buddy system of services, which saves this busy lady time in the end. She also commends the spa that introduced BlackBerry hand massages to the menu after listening to so many complaints from business people who use them a lot.

Teens and Tweens Teens don’t have much money, but they will spend what isn’t theirs: mom and dad’s money. Catering to this group is your way of ensuring your future business. It can only grow as they age. Paying attention to them today will pay off down the road.

Relating Morrison has a good way to lure the teen market. “The punk influence was a generational experience of do-it-yourself, and that is still true with today’s teens. Home hair colour is about DIY experimenting, so you want to get them addicted to salon colour as quickly as possible. Having young stylists will help bring in young clients. Get the new talent to have evenings and days where teens can come in for a reduced price to experience salon hair colour. It’s a great way to grow your teen business.” “Teens often have a specific look they want,” says Chernova. “Ask them to bring in pictures or tear sheets of their favourite celebrities. Also remember that teens can be very self-conscious at times, so asking if there is anything they like or dislike about their face is important. Then you tailor the look to accentuate or hide as needed. You are making them happier and gaining their trust for a long-term relationship.” “While teens don’t need colour, they love to express themselves, and hair is just another canvas to play with,” McFarlane suggests. “All the bold fashion shades in professional colour lines are perfect for stylists to inspire these young clients to try out.” Retailing

“This is an easy sell,” says Morrison. “They are much more hip to what’s going on and the hot brands. This group loves to sample, too, which is a great selling tool.” McFarlane is convinced it goes back to

But she is a bread-and-butter client because she needs regular maintenance.

may+june 08 < salon

drama. “It’s all about the higher hold factor in styling products and less about care products. Introduce them to professional products now, because they will become your professional women in the future,” she suggests.

Add-on ServiceS “Nails are just a natural for the teen/tween market,” Chernova says. “They get to have so much fun with them, and the add-on creates the spin-off for retail. Teens love nail polish. So again, marrying the hairstylist to the nail technician is a great way to go for add-on suggestions here.” “Particularly for teens, panels of colour work. And hair extensions are so huge right now, and it continues to grow—this category offers huge opportunities for add-on services,” says McFarlane.

Men Men are much more concerned with their looks these days. It’s no longer just the realm of gay men. With celebrity endorsements and men getting services like manicures, pedicures, waxing, massage and the like, it has become much more acceptable and mainstream for men to spend time in the salon and spa.

Men

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relAting “The lines are blurred for men and hair colour these days,” Morrison argues. “Gone are the days of a close back and sides. Haircuts are less structured and more edgy, so colour can complement the cut more today. Your message is that it’s not a lifetime commitment—it can be gone with the next haircut for male clients.” Chernova thinks that men like to feel comfortable, so if your salon is mixed, you may want to have a men-only section. “And for the hair, it should be more about what look they are going for and how they want people to perceive them.” She suggests asking a man whether he wants edgy, the latest trend or a professional look. “These are all things that will help determine if he’s willing to put product in his hair every day.”

“Men have a fear of colour,” says McFarlane. “They think they’ll come out looking like they have shoe polish in their hair. Address the fears.” For example, Redken’s Camo colour (as well as L’Oréal’s new Cover 5) blends grey as opposed to completely colouring. It’s a gradual change. “And for thinning hair, colour will plump the cuticle to make it thicker,” she adds.

retAiling

Results of a study conducted by Saine Marketing for L’Oréal Canada in 2004 showed that over 50 per cent of men choose and buy their own brand of hair care products: shampoo (57 per cent), conditioner (52 per cent) and hair-styling products (61 per cent). The study also showed that 42 per cent of men use a styling product, of which the most commonly used is a gel. “Men take direction faster,” says Morrison. “Just tell them what they need and they will buy it, but you have to show them how to use the styling products while they are in the chair. They move through the salon faster, so signage should be bold to grab their attention. And make sure the men’s section of retail stands out clearly.” McFarlane asserts, “With men, it is the loyalty factor. So introduce them to salon product. You might want to try a promotion to get them once—a gift with purchase, or have a colour and leave with a shampoo. They are creatures of habit. Once they like, it they will buy it over and over again.”

Add-on ServiceS “Men are becoming more comfortable in the salon these days. And esthetic services seem to be the direction for add-on services for them. Waxing is huge, especially among sports-oriented guys like cyclists. Manicures and pedicures are also good, especially for white-collar business types,” says Chernova. A massage service is also a good idea. Gift certificates with packages for men are a great way to get them trying new things. You can target women to buy them for the men. Also, offering couples packages is a great way to get the men into the salon or spa and trying new things. S

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Connections Websites for beauty pros

oday, savvy salons are taking advantage of the Internet to access information and disseminate their own messages. Websites like salon52.ca, behindthechair.com and the intensely popular Facebook are offering businesses like salons the most basic form of direct marketing— reaching out to millions of active users. Facebook also serves as a blank canvas to showcase work and create a community where clients can freely interact with their stylists. “Facebook can definitely offer a lot of visibility,” says Jonathan Morello, director of business development for NeoExtensions, who recently launched an interactive webpage for NeoExtensions certified users. “But it can’t offer credibility. You can’t assess the value of the information you are receiving, because you don’t know the integrity of the person. What we offer is the integrity of certified stylists answering each other’s questions.” The NeoExtensions website is solely available to certified stylists who have been approved by the head office. It serves as a community for stylists who are using the same product and want to interact with questions or comments. Similar to an online networking site, it will include a profile page where stylists can upload images of work they have created using the product to share them with their peers. “The Web is a practical solution, and people will always invest in practicality,” says Morello. “We still kept our hotline, so as not to exclude any users, but we rarely get calls any more. Most questions are sent online.” A close watch on online activity shows that most NeoExtensions users are active users, logging in at least once a week and participating. “Our industry is pushed forward by education,” says Morello. “Stylists need interaction—they like to make comparisons and discuss issues that pertain to our industry.” They also like to stay on top of the latest international trends in hair and makeup, logging on to salon52.ca and behindthechair.com for regular updates. “Our most popular pages are the collections, as well as news and events,” says salon52.ca’s Morella Aguirre. These websites serve as an instant news source for stylists and offer a direct connection to the industry and its happenings. Stylists get a generous offering of international photo shoots, industry event photos and upcoming event dates faster than ever. They use the website as an information resource, but also to communicate with other stylists and recruit new staff members. “The job board is very popular,” confirms Aguirre. S

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jupiterimages

By Tina Christopoulos

salon > may+june 08

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She Comes in Colours TIGI piles on the pigment in the new Urban Collection Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

ith the recently released Urban Collection, the stylists

at TIGI add a psychedelic shot of colour to their recognizable street-friendly style. Saturating jagged-edged cuts with jolts of tangerine, lavender and fuchsia, the collection delivers creative exuberance in hair, makeup and wardrobe. The looks scream for sunny counterculture world.

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attention, taking the viewer to a

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Collection: Urban Collection Hair: TIGI artistic team Photos: courtesy TIGI S

salon > may+june 08

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Earth’s Edge Aveda’s Antoinette Beenders proves that earthy can be edgy Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

One of the things we love about Aveda is its ability to marry eco with cool. Whether it’s appealing to a luxury client or to hipster club kids, Aveda’s stylewith-conscience image is anything but a glamour-free, granola stereotype. Antoinette Beenders, global artistic director of Aveda, plays a huge role in creating and exporting the right image for the Aveda brand. In her collection for the British Hairdressing Awards, The Edge, Beenders projects a powerful look designed to appeal to those in fashion’s avant-garde. Focusing on texture and form, Beenders builds rounded, square and triangle shapes through crimped, brushed-out or smooth-to-curly locks. Ebony clothing and black-and-white photography add drama to 80s-inspired silhouettes, creating a collection with strong character and a distinct sense of style.

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Collection: The Edge Hair: Antoinette Beenders, global artistic director of Aveda Colour: Bruno Ellorioroz Makeup: Dele Olongvela Wardrobe: Damian Foxe Photos: Miguel Reveriego S

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may+june 08 < salon

Heads Up!

Tips for happier clients

Ever wonder why a new client comes once, then never returns? It might not be the haircut as much as everything else you are – or aren’t – doing right.

Head’s up Most clients love the scalp massage you offer while you’re washing their hair, but some don’t. Ask if they’d like the scalp massage (and let them know if you’ll be using essential oils in case they’re sensitive) before your fingers get going.

*Tip: If you’re not offering a scalp massage at your salon, maybe you should

by Chantel Simmons

FigHt club Don’t disagree with your client. If she’s not happy with the results, try to fix it, even if you think she looks great with her new style. You want her to leave feeling good about herself, you and the experience, not remembering that you fought with her over the haircut she was paying for.

*Tip: If you don’t think the style your client wants will suit her, voice your opinion at the start of the session. If she insists, give her the cut she wants, even if it’s not the cut you want to give her.

consider it. Many clients say they’ll change salons just for little extras like this.

sHop talk

drink up Offer your client a beverage—coffee, tea or water—while they’re waiting or when they’re in the chair. Then let them drink it. While you’re cutting, take a moment to allow them to sit forward for a sip if they want one.

*Tip: If your salon doesn’t offer clients a beverage, make sure you do. Invest in a coffeemaker or single-serving beverage machine, such as the Tassimo, so you can offer clients coffee, lattes, tea or hot chocolate within just a minute or two. Rudy Pignataro of Salon G&A Inc in Toronto doesn’t have a coffee machine at his salon—instead, he heads to the coffee shop next door to get his clients a fresh cup on their arrival.

Fusion

Don’t ask your clients about work. The last thing most clients want to do at the salon is talk about their job. They’ve likely been looking forward to their break from the office and the chance to indulge in some pampering time.

*Tip: Talk about your client’s hair, TV, weekend plans or travel plans. If your client wants to talk about her job, she’ll bring it up. S Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

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By Tina Christopoulos

key partners The value of your sales consultant

n today’s business world, relationships are key. We strive for prosperous and mutually beneficial business, client and employee relationships. But one relationship is often overlooked—the one you share with your sales representative. Gone are the days when your sales consultant talked only of promotions and deals. Although these remain important, today’s savvy salon owner also knows to take full advantage of the guidance and support a distributor can offer. “That relationship is evolving,” says Peter Alexander of Maritime Beauty Supplies in Nova Scotia. Alexander is a strong believer in distributor programs that help salons with merchandising, training and staff development as well as teaching them the power of retail. “We’re doing these things with more progressive salons, and they are reaping the benefits.” A clear example is the Salon Summit program. Salons attend the summit with their sales representative and go through the courses together. This provides a great opportunity for the sales representative to become a business consultant

and further build on the relationship he shares with the salon. Together, they put the learned systems into practice, further building a solid relationship. It creates a partnership and provides salons with someone to guide them and work through the programs with them. “It’s easy to identify a stylist who has gone into a program. They operate at a higher level. We see a 20 to 25 per cent growth in their business,” adds Alexander. Beauté Star Bédard in Quebec has recently put into place the new Club Star Prestige loyalty program, a mentorship program for salons. Industry veteran Joseph Gossen accompanies sales consultants on their visits to salons to explain the program. It offers personalized salon visits to members and offers guidance on merchandising in your salon, tips for improvement, teaching stylists about the tools they’re using and the technology involved. “Trade shows offer a different type of education than what we can give in the salon,” says Gossen. “What we are doing is having a mentor go into the salon and interact directly with stylists, brainstorm

and stimulate their creativity. These are things you don’t always get from watching someone onstage.” Cosimo Minnella of Salon Centre distributorship in Winnipeg sees sales representatives as consultants. “We need to educate ourselves first in order to be useful to our salons,” he says. “Our consultants are trained to offer various services and benefits to our clients, such as effective retailing strategies, how to maximize income per square foot, strategies on how to grow their business. “They will often be asked to participate in staff meetings to offer more advice, training and insight into products, education and stylist/client relationshipbuilding. Also, each consultant is equipped with cellular aircards in their laptops linked directly to the main server, offering up-to-the-minute valuable information and allowing for seamless service. “As a distributor, offering these types of resources for our clients shows that we are concerned with helping them be more successful in business. Our sales consultants are a key partner with them in business—bottom line,” says Minnella. S

Software that brings excitement to your business Milano Salon Software gives you all the tools you need to be successful. Create excitement in your business with eye-catching promotional emails and easy-to-use staff goal tracking tools. To learn more about these and our other innovative features, go to

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may+june 08 < salon

Circlet Deify

Collection: D:FUSED Hair: Jörg Zimmer (Circlet and Deify trends) and Stephane Gallien (Casque d’Or and Disco’n’age trends) Colour: Marc Riese (Circlet and Deify trends) and Sergej Herdt (Casque d’Or and Disco’n’age trends) Wardrobe: Dawn Cleis Photos: Pierluigi Macor

salon > may+june 08

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Disco’n’age

Casque d’Or

Solid Gold La Biosthetique Paris reinvents disco-pop Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

orking with short, internal layers and harmonizing colour arrangements, the new D:FUSED collection from luxe label La Biosthetique Paris showcases four key trends for spring/summer 2008: Circlet, Deify, Casque d’Or and Disco’n’age. Designed to fit the busy lifestyle of the modern urbanite, the collection draws its inspiration from disco-pop culture, a glossy, highly styled movement that changed at a whim. Go to www.salon52.ca to view more, including la Biosthetique’s new makeup collection. S

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may+june 08 < salon

L-R: President and ceo Johan Koss from Right to Play, Joelle Adler, founder of one X one, HKI fellows Dr. Stephenson Musiime (left) and Dr. Joseph Mucumbitsi, pediatricians at King Faisal Hospital in Rwanda, selected as HealthyKids International Rwanda’s first two fellows to attend specialist pediatric training at the Hospital for Sick children in Toronto.

For the children

Why you should join Redken and One X One in their mission to end child poverty Education is the key. It’s a catchphrase we often use in our industry that applies on such a global level. So as Redken gears up for its second annual national cut-athon to benefit the One X One foundation, held between August 11 and 17, Salon Magazine looks for a deeper understanding of the cause. One X One is a non-profit foundation that supports myriad initiatives with the goal of preserving and improving the lives of kids in Canada and around the world. “We are in this to achieve a very important vision, to really make a difference in the lives of children,” says One X One founder Joelle Adler. In what she calls a natural fit, Redken Canada has partnered with One X One for the second year in a row to raise money for the foundation—money that will go toward providing sustainable solutions to eradicate poverty and illness. A good example of this is One X One’s current partnership with HealthyKids International to create a fellowship program for Rwandan doctors to train at Sick Kids Hospital in Toronto and return home to practise what they have learned. It’s an investment that will give these doctors the opportunity to acquire the advanced skills they need to improve child survival rates in Rwanda. “We went from putting a band-aid on the problem to finding a sustainable solution,” explains Adler, the driving force behind developing HealthyKids International in Rwanda. “We are in Rwanda because of Joelle’s support for the program,” says Michael O’Mahoney, president of Sick Kids Foundation. “We estimate that each pediatrician we train via HealthyKids International in Rwanda impacts over 17 million children during his/her lifetime, because each pediatrician we train goes on to train others when they return home. We use the

salon > may+june 08

analogy of a pebble dropped in a pond that creates many ripples.” One X One equally supports foundations close to home, like War Child Canada, Right to Play and Child Find Ontario. “The First Nations communities are also very important on the domestic agenda,” adds Adler. “We need to educate Canadians on what’s happening in our First Nations communities.” She feels the poverty within some of these communities is embarrassing for a country like Canada. Adler believes that education on both sides of the spectrum is what will free the world from poverty. “Invest in people’s education. Teach them how to fish, don’t just give them the fish,” she says. By the same token, Adler feels that the average person donating to charities needs to do a little more research into where their dollars are being spent. “Community support and fundraising can have a huge impact, and we are seeing it first hand at Sick Kids,” says O’Mahoney. “Children are our greatest assets, and I’m motivated every day by our vision, “Healthier Children. A Better World.” It’s the same vision that drives all of One X One’s partners, including a very devoted Redken Canada. “Redken’s involvement is a seamless extension of the company’s corporate culture,” says Adler. “They are amazing. Everyone on the team serves as a poster child for One X One. They’re all so excited about doing the right thing. It’s about the cause first.” Want to get involved? Call 866.9.REDKEN for information. S To learn more about how you can help, watch our exclusive Redken Joins One X One video at www.salon52.ca.

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(l-R) couRtesy Right to play, one x one and healthykids inteRnational

By Tina Christopoulos

Salon: $179.95 for both kits & get a Free banner Enhancing The Scentual Spa Experience

In Canada 800.661.9997 780.465.2131 www.cuccio.com

by Tina Christopoulos

ESTHETICS

“T

Zip Zap Gone

What every esthetician should know about treating acne-prone skin

The rooT of The problem According to Arrangio, from the beginning until its disappearance, the life cycle of a pimple can take eight weeks to run its course. And it can take even longer for the darkened spots left by some acne pimples to fade completely. In order to properly assess client’s needs, you need to find out when their acne began and how it has progressed. Since several factors can contribute to cause acne—genetic predisposition, stress, hormonal changes, climate changes, pregnancy and diet—the best method of diagnosis is to ask as many questions as possible and gather as much information as possible about your client’s background and lifestyle. Studies have shown that most acne can be linked to genetic factors. If a client’s parents had acne when they were younger, chances are he or she will have acne, too. So ask if there is any history of acne in the family, suggests Arrangio. Also ask what areas are being affected—such as face, back, chest, upper arms, etc. Ask if they have ever sought professional or medical help and, if so, what was their experience. If they are under the care of a dermatologist, find out what therapy they are receiving and for how long. Are they having any side effects directly related to the therapy? What products are they currently using to treat their acne? Ask about their diet and lifestyle habits, and about their expectations, time and budgetary commitment to improving their acne. Ask about any scalp/ dandruff conditions, because facial acne and dandruff are closely related, and the scalp needs to be treated as well. Taking into consideration all the information you’ve gathered on your individual clients, recommend a skin care regimen that targets their specific needs. “Since skin with imperfections is already irritated, it is important that a treatment soothes and calms with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial ingredients,” says La Biosthetique’s Michel Cassivi. “Most acne treatments on the market dry out the skin, which provokes a reaction to produce more sebum to compensate for the loss. The key is to use products that alleviate pain, irritation and redness with a combination of active ingredients that send signals to the sebaceous glands to tell them to stop overproducing sebum.”

The RighT STuff The Aveda Outer Peace Acne Relief regimen is customized based on the client’s level of acne and lifestyle conditions. By identifying what factors may be aggravating their acne, estheticians can enhance their services with nutritional and lifestyle recommendations. La Biosthetique Methode Clarifiante is a skin-regulating intensive care line based on special active substances that normalize sebum production and clarify the skin, improve its metabolism and moisturize. S

salon > may+june 08

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MAKEUP MIRANDA FOX HAIR SUZANNE MARTIN PHOTO BABAK CONTESSA 19

reating acne is like detective work,” says Nella Arangio, Aveda’s spa development specialist. It goes beyond prescribing spot treatments to make those unwanted blemishes disappear; the aim is to prevent them from forming in the first place. And that requires research. “It’s important for spa therapists to develop a relationship with their clients, ask open-ended questions and listen to gather as much information as they can.”

nails

by Morella aguirre

PoWDEr Hot or Cold Effect

ModeL photo aNd CNd powderS CourteSy CNd

CND’s Liquid & Powder Enhancement System is now re-launched, re-branded and better than ever. The line’s 25 sculpting powders, now regrouped into the Perfect Color Skin Tones Collection (which includes three new shades, Warm Pink, Neutral Pink and Cool Pink), the Perfect Color Shimmers Collection and the Perfect Color Bolds Collection, provide a complete palette for customized services. Go to www.cnd.com.

Here’s a tip for the summer months: chill Cuccio’s delicious body butters for a couple of hours, then use on clients suffering from hot summer feet. The cold creams will reduce swelling, refresh feet and moisturize skin. Or try heating up Cuccio’s new smallergrain sea salts before massaging. Warmed up, the scrubs open pores for increased exfoliation. Use in a circular motion to increase blood circulation to the skin. For more tips go to www. cuccio.com.

Trend:

Lush summer CoLours

LCN’s Secrets collection includes all the summer basics—a pale pink, a vivid coral, a bright fuchsia and a deep berry. S

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ta n n i n g

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PHOTOs cOurTesy uvalux

teven Gilroy, Director of Smart Tan Canada, calls todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tanning salon the next generation of sunlight centres. When his wife, Maureen Meikleham, decided to open D Tan, an 1,800-squarefoot sunlight centre in Vancouver last March, she followed a more holistic approach. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than just tanning,â&#x20AC;? says Gilroy. â&#x20AC;&#x153; With the new machines on the market, the industry is now being elevated to a spa experience.â&#x20AC;? Machines like the Hydration Station, the first oxyhydrating moisturization system for the tanning industry, and the new Rejuvasun with Omnilux technology are offering clients a wide range of added benefits, from light therapy and mood enhancement to treating fine lines and wrinkles, while still achieving their desired tan. The new Rejuvasun with Omnilux technology is a natural method of light therapy that offers three treatment regimes: repairing, intended for clients with enlarged pores, tired skin, sun spots and sun damage, dark circles and periorbital wrinkles; firming, for more mature clients who need to treat and prevent onset of periorbital wrinkles and wish to improve elasticity in the skin; and clearing, for problematic skin to purge clogged pores, balance complexion and soothe irritated skin. Clients now have the option to tan, tan and rejuvenate their face, or just rejuvenate. These options can virtually eliminate your slow season. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great opportunity to attract a new clientele seeking affordable and noninvasive rejuvenation technology. For more information on Rejuvasun with Omnilux, visit www.uvalux.com.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;TC

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PROFILE

Mister Personality Kevyn Martell’s “schizophrenic” career by Kim Hughes

nterviewing Kevyn Martell is like chatting with a guy with multiple personalities. Each persona kind of looks the same and they’re all similar… yet different. First, there’s Martell the award-winning stylist who commands his place behind the chair at Toronto’s Salon Circus, translating runway looks into cuts more suited to everyday life.

salon > may+june 08

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opposite page michael banasiak, photo paris hilton, clinton h. Wallce/photomundo/global photos inc.

Then there’s Martell the platform artist and educator, who as a member of Joico’s international artistic team hopscotches across North America creating eye-popping dos that inspire his peers. “I’m very patient,” he offers, “and I’m willing to share my knowledge.” There’s Martell the TV personality, creating makeover miracles on daytime talk-shows. Martell the former salon owner, the fashion junkie and the celebrity wrangler. (He’s worked opposite Paris Hilton and J-Lo as an ambassador for Joico at the Toronto International Film Festival.) Calling Martell’s career schizophrenic is an understatement. So it’s hardly surprising that, when asked if he’s attempting to build himself as a brand name, the affable stylist says yes. “And it’s sort of working. People recognize my name. I have a profile in Canada and the U.S., so now I need to get some international stuff going on. It would be great to do some things in Europe. “Looking ahead, I see myself spending less time behind the chair and more time doing other things. Believe it or not, I’d like to write a book about this whole industry and my experience in it. I find humour everywhere.” And Martell has been just about everywhere, too—in Canada at least. Born in Toronto and raised in Atlantic Canada, he honed his craft in Alberta (“mostly because I have a daughter, now 28, in Alberta and I wanted to be close to her”) before returning to Halifax, where he launched Salon Marrakesh with long-time partner Brian Menzies (a colourist at Toronto’s Glo Salon) in 1999. The pair sold the shop in 2004. “I loved Salon Marrakesh and I loved the day-to-day, but in the end I was on the road a lot for Joico and I made the decision to move to Toronto because it was better for me and this part of my life.” Luckily, Martell counts travel as a key inspiration. “And I pay very close attention to fashion. I love Gareth Pugh. He always has the coolest hair. His stuff is very avant-garde, but anything on the runway typically is, compared to what you’re going to see in stores. “So I am inspired by the avant-garde but I bring it down to what the public can handle. Conversely, I can’t go onstage and show stylists

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a bob. I have to bring that about five stages higher. So it’s always a struggle between what works on the runway and what works on the street. Plus, you have to keep up with what’s current and glamorous and on the red carpet. “For example, wedding season is coming up. If you just give people French rolls with baby’s-breath, they’re going to say, ‘God, this is so dated.’ You need to know the latest looks worn by Cameron Diaz or Rachel Weisz to create what’s cool right now.” Despite schmoozing with the stars, Martell’s best story may be how he got into hair in the first place. “Early on I was working for the government with children with behavioural problems. I cared a lot about those kids, but at the end of the day I just could not put work aside and I was afraid, it would kill me after a while. “I had always been interested in fashion. I remember when we moved from Halifax to Cape Breton going to school with my little purple cords and little shirt with the peace sign on it. Some kid said to me, ‘Don’t you have any normal clothes?’ And I said, ‘Like yours? Ah, no.’” Martell laughs. “I was a catty kid. “But when I met people in fashion and the hair business I thought, ‘My god, you guys have great fun at work, you get to chat with people and make them feel good, you get to listen to great music and dress how you want to dress and stay young. “That’s where I’m going.’ “And, yes,” he chuckles, “it would be fair to say my early work in behavioural psychology has served me well in my subsequent career.” S

To view our video interview with Kevyn Martell, visit www.salon52.ca.

may+june 08 < salon

INTERIORS

Getting Spoiled Salon Montage and Day Lounge isa Esposito, stylist and owner of Salon Montage and Day Lounge in Langley, B.C., says every decision she made about design, layout and decor had to make clients feel special and relaxed. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Five-star service is first! Every little detail has

been purposely installed, hung or positioned to create a pleasant experience.â&#x20AC;?

salon > may+june 08

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photos Michelle schwingboth

by Colette Wright

Esposito is fond of blue, brown and cream tones. “I was sold on this colour scheme after visiting a store in Italy and feeling a wave of calmness come over me.” Behind the reception desk is a wall blocking the view of the salon. To the left, a hidden but cozy seating area with a modern plush sofa and chair is where clients settle upon arrival. “I believe clients shouldn’t be on display by people passing by,” says Esposito. She adds that male clients feel much more at ease. In the shampoo area, there are three backwash sinks with reclining massage chairs. Clients put their feet up and instantly unwind. Mounted on the wall are specially constructed square-boxed shelves holding towels for easy access. The colour area is simple. “Rather than install a colour bar, we do the mixing in a back room. I prefer it, because I don’t like a mess.” Little decor touches include circular-shaped votive candles, which are lit during the day. Esposito has intentionally chosen a circular and squared theme in the salon. “I just like the look,” she explains. On the other side is the cutting area. The pièces de résistance are the full-length mirrors made in Italy. In the centre of each mirror, a glass shelf is attached, along with a footrest at the bottom. “Clients enjoy the comfort of stretching out their legs as they do at home.” Beside the mirrors are lights that illuminate and complement a client’s facial features. To prevent stations from cluttering up with styling products, shelves have been built into the wall at both ends. The Day Lounge is located at the back of the salon. “I call it a day lounge because I feel a true spa is serene and tranquil, with no noise seepage.” As a result, Esposito has designed and decorated the treatment area to look like a lounge. Clients can sit at the manicure bar and have their hand solution mixed in a martini shaker while dipping the other hand into a bowl of nuts or dried fruit to snack on. After a massage or facial in one of the two treatment rooms, clients can rejuvenate by helping themselves to a beverage at the juice bar. They can take time to chill out, receiving a foot treatment by sitting on a pedicure massage throne. Esposito is happy to declare, “I like my clients to get spoiled!” S

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Name: Salon Montage and Day Lounge address: Unit D111-20159 88th Avenue Langley, B.C. OwNers: Lisa and Carmine Esposito OpeNed: December 1, 2006 size: 2,500 sq. ft. Number Of staff: 14 breakdOwN: 8 cutting stations; 4 colour chairs; 3 pedicure chairs; 2 manicure tables; 2 treatment rooms iNteriOr desigNer: Theresa Leung maNagemeNt sOftware: Milano Systems furNiture & equipmeNt: MG Bross; Gamma; Takara Belmont; Novvo retail hair: Aveda retail spa: Aveda & O.P.I phONe: 604.882.8583 hOurs Of OperatiON: Monday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Tuesday to Thursday 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Friday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. website: www.salonmontage.com

may+june 08 < salon

HOT PRODUCTS

hotpicks by Alicia McAuley

2 5 1

4 3

salon > may+june 08

Spa at home With a blend of natural botanicals, floral and fruit extracts, the new Tru Rituals line of body treatments has everything your clients need to enjoy spaquality luxury at home. The Red Currant & Iris Body Collection features a Rejuvenating Oil Mist, Quenching Body Wash, Moisturizing Body Cream and Exfoliating sugar scrub. For more info, visit www.dannyco.com.

Smooth operator The latest addition to TIGI’s Bed Head line is a finishing polish for any style. Dumb Blonde Smoothing Stuff moisturizes and shines while also protecting hair against harmful UV rays. And despite t he sassy name, this candy-scented polish will enhance the natural and colour-treated highlights of all hair hues. For more info, visit www.tigihaircare.com.

BlonDe amBItIon Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest offering, BLONDME Volumising Luminosity Mousse, is formulated to create natural volume and body in neutral, warm and cool blonde hair. The creamy styling mousse utilizes Prism Shine Technology to reflect light and illuminate hair. For more info, visit www.schwarzkopfprofessional.ca.

get energIzeD The new iTech “e” energy water system features an energized mist to hair and skin. The bottle contains a unique, all-natural filtration system that changes the ph balance of regular tap water to produce an innovative H2O that fights frizz, adds shine and repairs damaged hair. For more info, visit www. itechproducts.com.

In your DreamS Create a dramatic look with SST Signature Series’ cream to powder eye shadows from the new Secret Dreams shade collection. Available in bold purple Reaction, gold-pink Feeling, and beige-gold Emotion, these talc- and paraben-free shadows deliver long-lasting colour in a smooth, non-greasy formula. For more info, visit www. sstsignatureseries. com. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

photo chris tsintziras

Stay Strong Matrix Biolage has unveiled four new stylers enhanced with STRONGStem Technology. The medium hold of the Molding Soufflé shapes and texturizes hair, while the Volumizing Whipped Mousse adds body, control and shine. For a firmer hold, try the Sculpting Jelly or the fast-drying Freeze Fix Hair Spray. For more info, visit www.matrix.com.

events

May+June 2008 sHOWs May/June events 2008 ABA EDMONTON May 4â&#x20AC;&#x201D;5, 2008 Northlands Park Edmonton, AB Info: www.abacanada.com PReMIeRe ORLanDO 2008 June 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;2, 2008 Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Florida Info: www.premiereshows.com HaIRaPaLOOZa CaLGaRy May 25, 2008 Modern Beauty Supply Calgary, AB Info: 403-259-4442 2008 GLOBaL saLOn BusIness aWaRDs June 7â&#x20AC;&#x201D;9, 2008 Renaissance Hotel, Hollywood, CA Info: www.salonbusinessawards.com

HaIR CLasses aveDa eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 800.361.6607 GLOBaL Best Beauty eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWeLL eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs including trend zoom seminars; Info: 877.670.6767 GReat LenGtHs eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: www.greatlengths.net KMs eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 877.670.6767 Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ORÃ©aL PROfessIOnneL eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MatRIx eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 888.422.6879 ReDKen eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 866.9.REDKEN sCHWaRZKOPf eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 905.625.7200 or w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

InteRnatIOnaL Beauty sHOW Las veGas June 28â&#x20AC;&#x201D;30, 2008 Las Vegas, NV Info: www.lvhnc.com aLLIeD Beauty assOCIatIOn aGM June 13â&#x20AC;&#x201D;15, 2008 Hilton Fallsview, Niagara Falls, ON Info: 905-568-0158 MILanO exCHanGe eDuCatIOnaL COnfeRenCe Milano Software will be hosting its annual Milano Exchange Educational Conference June 8 and 9 at Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Double Tree Hotel and Conference Centre. Now in its 16th year and with over 200 attendees anticipated, Milanoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Exchange will be packed with critical business coaching and classes, including seminars on inventory control and loyalty point programs. For info go to www. milanosystems.com/exchange.

#ALBROOK #ANADA s WWW CALBROOKCANADA COM !LBERTA s -ANITOBA s 4ORONTO $OWNTOWN '4! %AST /NTARIO s #ALGEL #ENTRAL /NTARIO s 7ESTERN /NTARIO s .IAGARA -ISSISSAUGA 3URROUNDING AREA /TTAWA s -ONTREAL 1UEBEC s !TLANTIC #ANADA

contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor tIGI eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 800.361.6607 uRBan Beauty systeMs eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

naIL anD estHetICs CLasses aveDa eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CnD eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: contact your local CND distributor LCn eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings staR naIL eDuCatIOnaL PROGRaMs Info: 800.661.9997

For a full listing of educational programs and event coverage go to salon52.ca. may+june 08 < salon

SCOOP

More Amore Avola College’s annual end-of-year show, the ever-growing Amore Show, will take place June 1 at the This is London nightclub in Toronto. Proceeds will benefit the Hospital for Sick Children. Call 416.967.1800.

FAce LiFt

With crisp and clean metallic tones leading the colour trends, Schwarzkopf professional has launched a new colour series, IGoRa Vibrance Cool purity. Three new shades—a metallic brunette, a dark blonde with cool tones and an icy crisp blonde— make up the line. Visit www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca.

Now on DVD Featuring technical and business expert Elaine Watson, Cina Pro’s new educational DVD, How to Double Your Income with CinaPro Nail Art, includes the latest nail art step-by-steps and sales tips to help you keep ahead of the game. Best of all, it’s ideal for both beginner and advanced techs. For more go to www.cinapro.com.

salon > may+june 08

EvEnt of a LifEtimE On July 13, 2008, the North American Hairstyling Awards and Professional Beauty Association will honour industry icon Martin Parsons with the NAHA 19 Lifetime Achievement Award. Best known for his work with long hair, Parsons has made his mark on the industry as an educator, school owner and truly exceptional artist. His work has inspired stylists around the world to find their own unique style and technique. For more information about NAHA 19, visit www.probeauty.org/naha.

SaleS Force Industry expert Tony Nemer has recently become CND’s new vice-president of international sales. Formerly with American Crew, Nemer brings 25 years of experience in global sales and a powerful track record for growth to his new role. During Nemer’s time at Redken, he was responsible for increasing international sales from 4 per cent to 35 per cent of total sales. For more info, go to www.cnd.com.

BaBy Love Ivana Mariani of Langton Communications gave birth to bouncing baby Patricia on March 22.

Dede Sgardelis, marketing manager for Joico, is also celebrating a new addition. She gave birth to baby boy Adam on March 14.

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moDeL PHoTo coURTeSy ScHwaRzkoPf PRofeSSionaL

Cold Snap

The Champlain Institute in Toronto has recently undergone a major revamp and is now under new ownership. Offering diploma programs in esthetics and spa management as well as postgraduate programs in medical esthetics and laser techniques, the institute has also recently collaborated with Contessa Award-winning makeup artist Cheryl Gushue to create a postgraduate makeup artistry program. Encompassing all aspects of fashion makeup, the program will take students through basic skills, bridal makeup, session work and business and promotional coaching. For more info, go to www.champlaininstitue.ca.

Visit our showroom!

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1 800 661-6292

Toronto - Montreal - Calgary - Woodstock - Vancouver Toronto 905-881-9046 Montreal 1-877-660-6292 Calgary 403-274-1532 Woodstock 519-421-1212 Vancouver 604-240-3516

Danger Ultraviolet Radiation. Overexposure causes skin and eye burns. Use protective eyewear. Follow instructions. Drugs and cosmetics may increase UV effects. UV exposure can be hazardous to your health and in the long term can contribute to premature skin ageing and skin cancer. UV effects are cumulative. Greater risks are associated with early and repeated exposure.

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P R E S S PA S S

ToRonTo ABA The biggest show of its kind in Canada, the Toronto ABA took place at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre on April 13 and 14. Beauty pros from all over Ontario came out to see the latest products, trends and styles. A rotating main stage included live presentations from all the top manufacturers.

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may+june 08 < salon

P R E s s Pa s s

CanuCks in ChiCago The buzz and excitement of competition from the OMC HairWorld Championships and the hundreds of exhibitor stage presentations at Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beauty Show drew plenty of Canadians south to Chicago to kick off the spring show season with a bang. The three-day event ran from March 1 to 3. OMC HairWorld takes place every two years in a different host country. This year, over 50 countries were represented in the competitions in Chicago, taking place in conjunction with Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beauty Show. Go to www.salon52.ca for competition results from our Canadian team and more coverage of this event.

salon > may+june 08

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P R E S S PA S S

Photo roswellanderson.com

AltERnAtivE FAShion WEEk Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost alternative multi-art festival, Alternative Fashion Week, took place April 9 to 11 at the historic Distillery District. Christos Cox and his team from Urban Textures were on hand as the festivalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s official hair artists, creating spectacular multitextured styles. For more, go to www.salon 52.ca.

salon > may+june 08

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REDKEN oN FiRE! It is perhaps fitting that Redken’s national sales meeting was held in Cancun. The heat fuelled the fire that has been going on at Redken. Education, sales and marketing teams were engaged more than ever in 2007, and that led to unprecedented increases in market shares. To celebrate, Redken recently took the entire team—some 140 people— to Cancun for four days to fiesta the balmy nights away.

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may+june 08 < salon

EDUCATIONAL ANNOUNCEMENT

P R e S S PA S S

M.C. College Group Now Offering ™ Hair Certification Courses!

All About beAuty in edmonton

M.C. College Group, with their locations in Central and Western Canada, has joined forces with ™ and is now offering certification courses in their schools in Winnipeg, Saskatoon, Edmonton, Red Deer, Calgary & Kelowna. This makes it easier for those wanting to get involved in the most consumer friendly hair extension, as the training will be available on an ongoing basis.

International Beauty Services held its annual All About Beauty Show at Edmonton’s Shaw Conference Centre on March 16 and 17, attended by over 600 beauty pros. The show kicked off with a presentation by Matrix motivational speaker Dr. Lew Losoncy to get the crowd pumped for two days of presentations and hands-on classes. Manufacturers exhibiting at the show included L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Alterna, Wahl, Tressa, Footlogix, GIGI, Kasho, Lash BeLONG, Hot Tools, SpaRitual, Bodyography, Dannyco, Britewhite and T3. Salon Magazine made two presentations on doing winning photo shoots for competing in the Contessa Awards. For more coverage on this event, go to www.salon52.ca.

™ has top quality EURO HAIR which can be re-used 4-5 times. This makes it more affordable to the client, only having to remove and reinstall the hair every 12-14 weeks, and replacing the shell attachments only. Call Today 1-800-265-4033 for information or to book at any of the M.C. College Group schools for your ™ training.

www.alfredshair.com email: alfreds@alfreds.ab.ca fax: 780-486-9459

website:

salon > may+june 08

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Marketplace Your guide to products and services for professional salons

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 17 Issue 07 , A - 7 ANAD /. #

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may+june 08 < salon

lAsT WoRD

by John Steinberg

entered the modern age the other week, much to my daughter’s delight. I purchased my first cellphone. My original excitement at its slick looks and technical possibilities wore off pretty quickly. I couldn’t remember my new number when asked for it, so nobody called me. Then my phone died. I was on my way back to the store to tell them they’d sold me a dud when I bumped into an acquaintance. He informed me I had to plug in my cellphone to recharge it. I didn’t know that. But what really upset me was that because I’d stopped wearing my watch, thinking I could rely on the clock on my cellphone, I arrived late for an appointment—something I almost never do. My parents were sticklers for punctuality, an attribute they passed on to my sister and me. “On the dot” became one of my favourite expressions. To this day, I will show up to meet someone 10 minutes early, and wait until the precise appointed time to announce my arrival. So I was delighted to discover that Lord Nelson once said, “I have always been a quarter of an hour before my time, and it has made a man of me.” Hear hear. I would have done well in Japan, a country where respect is paramount and the “punctuality concept” the strongest in the world, according to researchers. Hence, the Japanese have the highest average walking speed, accuracy of bank clocks and post office efficiency. What the West calls “fashionably late” the Japanese regard as rebellious, egocentric and just plain insulting. I have a friend who often arrives “fashionably late” or on the thin razoredge of on time. I showed her wikiHow’s (www.wikihow.com ) list of useful tips for those who struggle with the virtue of punctuality. She found some of them—like go to sleep and get up on time—rather silly advice to give to someone challenged by doing anything on time. But she was intrigued by the tip that states, “Don’t be an optimist,” because she is optimistic. “Things usually take significantly longer than you’d expect, even without major delays,” wikiHow suggests. “If you have a dinner date at 6:30, don’t think you can work in your yard until 6, then shower, change, and drive across town and make it on time. Realistically assess the time you will take on each step, and then add 15 minutes more to allow for unexpected delays.”

salon > may+june 08

Time will tell if my friend applies this wisdom and changes her habit, but the warnings at the end of the article ought to help. “Holding people up who have planned and prepared work, journeys, meals, entertainment etc. generates a cumulative irritation and devaluing of you personally,” they caution. “Your reputation is on the line. The power of showing up is limitless.” Punctuality, like politeness, is part of professionalism. But although punctuality is so important in our business, the current practice of stylists doing both cut and colour pose a real challenge to keeping on time. Good booking techniques are crucial, and assistants must be on their toes at all times. Even so, clients who have been kept waiting are far more likely to take their frustration out on the unfortunate receptionist or assistant. Clients will rarely risk upsetting their stylist! Significantly, when Vidal Sassoon—not only the hairdresser’s hairdresser but also a real English gentleman—published his autobiography in 1968, he called it Sorry I Kept You Waiting, Madam. Acknowledging the client’s situation with a warm, sincere apology can do wonders to smooth ruffled feathers and help the salon run—pardon the pun—like clockwork. S John Steinberg is at John Steinberg and Associates in Toronto. He is currently celebrating 49 years in the beauty business. Check out www.johnsteinbergthelectures.com

John has just published his first 50 stories from this page in a compilation called follicles! much more than a memoir… It’s available at www.lulu.com/content/2129306 or call 416.977.6438

Photo BARRIE WENtZELL

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