Salon Magazine, May/June 2009 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon MAGAZINE

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

mind your

business

Smart staffing, knockout leadership, stress-free retailing and more!

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STYLING

•

ENTS

ENCES

C INGR

AN IC

CARE

•

PU YNT T RES

COLOUR

•

ESSENSITY

NTA I N COE DUCED S

F O R M O R E I N F O O N E S S E N S I T Y C O N TAC T 1- 8 0 0 - 4 6 3 - 3 0 81 O R V I S I T S C H WA R Z KO P F - P R O F E S S I O N A L .C A

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ENTRIES ARE NOW BEING ACCEPTED

ESSENSITY’S

INSPIRED BYN AT U R E CONTEST We’re challenging all hairdressers from rookies to pros to step up and strut their stuff. Create a nature inspired hairstyle using ESSENSITY and YOU COULD WIN OUR GRAND PRIZE, VALUED AT OVER $10,000 – INCLUDING AN EXCLUSIVE PHOTO SHOOT IN TORONTO WITH ONE OF CANADA’S LEADING FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS, AND A DOUBLE PAGE FEATURE IN SALON MAGAZINE.

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[CHARLOTTE RONSON ] fearless fashion designer whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than meets the eye. on her design-hot shoulders, one cool business head. style is all you see. haircrafted by jimo salako.

ÂŠ 2008 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3

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Daniel Fiorio, Salon DANIEL & SPA

«Like a true best friend, texture expert cares for hair’s needs as it styles. Quite simply, it’s the best styling line I have ever used.»

Inspired by Haute Couture’s innovative spirit, texture expert launches five new texture transforming products. New trends birth new hair desires. These dreams require new tools. Welcome to unlimited possibilities with cosméstyling.

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Hair Collection: Prism by Aveda

MAY+JUNE.09 31 SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION 32

ON THE CASE Business experts analyze two hairstylists’ days from beginning to end to see what they’re doing right and where improvements can be made

IN THE LEAD

THE RECEPTION EXCEPTION

A guide to great salon leadership

Leave the nail filing to the estheticians—why your reception staff should never have a dull moment

OH, BABY! Dealing with maternity in the salon

salon > may+june 09

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40 42 43

UP YOUR GAME Experts give a step-by-step guide to guaranteed retail success

THE RECRUIT How to give your hiring style a tune up

FACE VALUE

A guide to expanding your esthetics business

SMART SHOOTER

CONTRIBUTORS

How to budget your Contessa shoot

l salon MAGAZINE

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business

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Hair: Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Hair and Beauty, London, UK Photos: Andrew O’Toole Technique: A point cutting technique was used to give hair its shape, sharp texture and an edgy finish. The ends of the fringe were then dip-dyed a red-orange hue for added depth. Although hair was kept straight, the look was finished using styling products for separation and movement.

Get to know this issue’s business experts

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OPI’s Higher Learning Series is designed to stretch your boundaries and take your skills, and proﬁtability, to a new level. From acrylics to gels to spa services, these one-day workshops will help you discover new ways of working smarter and faster, and how to polish your technical skills with time-proven OPI products and systems.

ACRYLIC

All the tips and techniques you need to help increase your earning potential! Get the latest scoop on exciting new products and application and ﬁnishing techniques that will lead to faster, more proﬁtable full sets.

GEL

Capitalize on the growing gel market! Discover quick, naturallooking overlays and new techniques for ﬁnishing faster. Features OPI’s new Axxium Soak-Off Gel Lacquer System.

SPA Discover new ways to put the Ahhh in your services! Create a stronger spa menu with scentsational services and hand treatments that make a powerful, money making retail connection.

FREE ONLINE EDUCATION

Simply register as a Professional at www.opi.com. Once there, click on education - online videos. It’s free, and you’ll be on your way to learning, and earning more! Most videos available in English, Spanish, French, German, Russian, Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.

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MAG. NAME:

SALON MAG-CANADA

4/19/09 4:51:05 PM

FEATURES 48 HAIR COLLECTIONS

Looks from Karine Jackson, La Biosthetique, Matrix, Aveda, Rudy Pignataro, Kaaral, Balmain and Fabio Sementilli

REGULARS 16 EDITOR’S LETTER 18 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 20 SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

p.23; Joico and ISO launch loyalty programs p.24; The latest tool from Hai Elite p.24; Father’s Day promos p.24; Joico introduces J Cutting J Color p.26; NAHA turns 20 p.26; Shelf Life spotlights five new sun care products your clients will love p.28

COLOUR

PROFILE

Check out three of the latest lightening systems

Three young stylists with their own unique styles tell us why their looks work

Colour: the latest lightening systems

HAIRLINES Gaga over Lady Gaga

Hair Collection: Elegance by Balmain

INTERIORS

86 89

SCOOP

CONTESSA GALLERY John Graham talks about his C20 Session Hairstylist collection

ESTHETICS

NAILS

Pure Elements Hair & Body gets back to nature

EVENTS Coverage of Toronto ABA, LP’s Unique 09, IBS’s All About Beauty, LG Fashion Week and more

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

Get clients hooked on hair removal services this summer

The best summer finds for nail retail

LIFE 28 SHELF New sun care

products your clients will love

salon > may+june 09

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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Are YOU collecting points? Limited Time Offer. The first 111 enrollments will receive a free gift.

salon merchandise salon tools salon accessories Visit www.clubSKP.com or ask your Sales Consultant or Technical Advisor for details.

The Creative Lead

Together. A passion for hair 16

Morella Aguirre Editor-in-Chief

salon > may+june 09

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love the creative side of being an editor—poring over images, conceptualizing stories, planning photo shoots, working closely with our art department on layouts. I’m one of those people who really thrive on new ideas and being part of an inspired team. I think it’s one of the reasons I can relate to all you hairstylists out there. But as I grow into my role as editor-in-chief and get to know this industry more, I realize that, as important as creativity is, it’s not the only ingredient to success. So more and more, I’m paying close attention to developing other characteristics—my leadership skills, my marketing skills, my networking skills and so on. This personal journey has made putting together this businessfocused issue fascinating for me. Although the topics we speak about are set in the salon world, many of the ideas and tips our business experts share are universal. In The Lead (page 36) for example, discusses the characteristics of a solid leader—whether inside or outside a salon. In Face Value (page 43), a story detailing ways of expanding your In The Lead, page 36 esthetics business, there are tons of marketing and promotion ideas applicable to many aspects of salon life. Smart Shooter (page 44) is all about getting the most bang for the dollars you spend on a photo shoot—great for anyone thinking about entering the Contessas, building an ad campaign or lining the walls of their salon with original work. I hope these pages inspire you to think about yourself and your career in a more holistic manner. Email me at morella@beautynet.com and let me know what you think of this issue. Smart Shooter, page 44

COLOUR AND CUT BOB + PAIGE SALON MAKEUP LIZ ROBERTSON PHOTO TONY CICERO

SALON LOYALTY PROGRAM

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BE GENEROUS,

give from your heartâ&#x20AC;Ś

REDKEN SALONS

Extend a helping hand to children living in poverty.

Here in Canada, one million children, or nearly one in six, live in poverty, when only $2 can feed a child for a day!

Once again in 2009 we are asking for your generous support. This year especially, in times of economic uncertainty, children may go hungry even more without our help.

Redkenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision is for all people to learn better, earn better and ultimately live a better life. The challenge is that young children who are hungry cannot learn in school. This year, all the proceeds raised through our Redken ONEXONE Cut-A-Thon will go entirely to feeding children here in Canada.

HOW CAN YOU HELP?

Call: 1.866.9.REDKEN to register now for the biggest Cut-A-Thon in Canadian history. Thank you for helping to feed our children.

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 18 issue 07

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com GROUP ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

Fran Schechter

Showtime

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras PUBLISHER/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

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Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

Laura Dunphy Publisher

salon > may+june 09

Stan Byrne

CONTRIBUTORS

enter a beehive of activity—English hair guru Errol Douglas’s model prep room. I approach him to let him know one of his photos has been selected for the cover of our April 2009 issue. Of course he is thrilled. He pecks me on the cheek. “See you next time. Be sure to come to our salon when in London,” he suggests. Of course, darling! Then I buzz over to see Neil Ducoff, author and one of North America’s leading business coaches. He gives me an autographed copy of his latest book, No-Compromise Leadership. Later that same day, I’m chatting up the latest industry darling, Australia’s Kevin Murphy, at a cocktail party. We compare Australia to Canada as a hot bed of new young talent. Then I see Anna Pacitto-Merlo with Tony Ricci. I tell them how much I loved the L’Oréal presentation—the models’ wardrobe was fabulous. As I head back to my hotel, I realize this is one of the best shows of the season. Where am I? Not in Los Angeles, or Toronto, or New York. I’m in Edmonton! I shake my head and marvel at the line-up of talent on a cold snowy weekend in March at the annual International Beauty Services All About Beauty Show. I tip my hat to IBS president Doris Tan for drawing in such stellar presentations from companies and personalities like Logics featuring Derek Rutherford, Matrix’s Dr. Lew (the salon industry’s version of Dr. Phil, but nicer), Jeffrey Altenburg from Tressa, Alterna, Pureology, OPI—it just goes on! I think it’s fantastic that shows like this continue to offer Canadian beauty pros the same type of line-up we’d see in any major city in the world. Maybe it answers the question I always get asked when I’m outside my ’hood: Why are Canadians so talented?

EDITORIAL INTERN

Pam Fulford

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

ACCOUNTANT

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com CHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50USd A DDRE SS CH AN GE S Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada SAL ON MAGAZ IN E

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return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

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This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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check it online

may+june 09 salon52.ca

COLLECTIONS > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES > VIDEOS > CONTESSA + MORE

COMPLETE COLLECTIONS > FABIO SEMENTILLI Old Hollywood Re-Visited

VIDEOS > MATRIX INDIVIDUALITY IN THE FLOW R o c h L e m a y dis s ects the lates t t r e n d s f r o m M atr ix

> AVEDA Prism > KARINE JACKSON Geo-Street > LA BIOSTHETIQUE The Magnetic

> WALK FOR WATER C o lle g a a n d the A v ed a I ns titute T o r o n t o la c e up fo r a g o o d caus e

NEW EDUCATION SECTION!

> MARK TEWKSBURY Ke y n o t e s p e a ker at A BA T o r o nto , t h is f o r m e r O ly m p ian hand s d o wn h is t o p le a d e rs hip tip s

We’re bringing you closer to the academies and schools that prime future stylists. This month: Aveda Academy Toronto.

CONTESTS

GIVEAWAYS Schwarzkopf presents

ESSENSITY’s Inspired By Nature Contest Su b m i t a photo o f a nature-inspir e d h a ir s t yle an d you could win a pho to sho o t t o be featu red i n the pages o f Salon Ma g a z in e . Con tes t ru ns April 1 to July 3 1 . C h e c k o u t s al on 52.ca/contest f o r details.

salon > may+june 09

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HAIR KARINE JACKSON PHOTO ANDREW O’TOOLE

> KAARAL Dynamic

L’ Oré a l P rof e s s ionne l S um m e r Fun G iv e a w a y ! Win a summer prize pack featuring L’Oréal Professionnel’s Solar Sublime line. Go to salon52.ca/contest between May 1 and 14 for a chance to win!

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access

coming soon! Your backstage pass to dynamic education, premier business development tools, innovative products and luxury merchandise designed just for you, the loyal Joico salon. Unleash your artistic potential with Vero K–PAK Color by Joico and gain access into a unique, customizable and rich program designed to partner wih you in building your business, your artistry and your passion.

ACCESSJOICO.CA

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3/7/09 4:03:21 PM

HAIRLINES

news

gaga over gaga

ver since Lady Gaga (real name Stefani Germanotta) burst onto the scene last year, everyone from Christina Aguilera to Nicole Richie has been accused of ripping off her innately hip sense of style. Since her rocket to the top we’ve seen her with different lengths of hair, sometimes with streaks of lavender coursing through it, and a regular rotation of high-fashion hair accessories from oversized bows (sometimes sculpted out of the same platinum blonde as her own hair) to demure church hats. Despite her constantly changing image, the natural brunette—she went blonde because brown drew too many comparisons to Amy Winehouse—is never seen without her trademark platinum hair and thick, low-cut fringe.

keystone press agency

Schwarzkopf Professional Esssential Looks Artist Jerry DeCicco of Casabella Salon and Bridal in Thunder Bay, Ontario, shares how to get a Gaga-inspired bow:

Prep hair with texture-adding OSiS Session Spray, brush forward and secure into a top ponytail on the right or left side of the head.

Create a ponytail and section it in two using a horizontal split and put aside an inch (less or more, depending on the thickness of the hair) from the bottom section toward the front of the face.

Lightly backcomb the two main pieces of the ponytail. Wrap each segment around the fingers like a circle and secure with bobby pins on each side.

Take the one-inch section set aside earlier and wrap it underneath and between both circles to complete the bow. Set with hairspray.—AM

COOL CHRISTINA VS. AVANT GARDE GAGA

57%

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of salon52.ca visitors prefer Christina Aguilera’s golden locks over Gaga’s quirky coif.

Go to salon52.ca today to weigh in on our latest polls.

may+june 09 < salon

4/22/09 5:24:13 PM

HAIRLINES

news

tool of the month

Get Committed

PHOTO COURTESY JOICO

This month, Joico and ISO are lauching much-anticipated loyalty programs to reward their faithful stylists. Each brand now has its own membership club to give salons access to education, business development tools, future products, special events, luxury gifts and more. To register with Joico, go to accessjoico.ca. For ISO, head to iexperience.ca. Each month, based on the amount of chemical product purchases made, ﬁve points will be awarded per dollar spent and can be redeemed at any time. This online business-building program is a must-have for salons looking to the future.—MB

Dearest Dad

NAME Hai Classic Pro SST WEBSITE hai-elite.com

FEATURES: Weighs an ultra-light 13 oz • Two speed settings and three heat settings • Reduces water clustering and creates antibacterial and deodorant properties • Negative Ion Technology and Far Infrared Rays seal cuticle

The latest Father’s Day promotions have arrived

f your clients are scrambling for a great Father’s Day idea, why not suggest professional care products? Not only will these products keep dads looking fabulous from the ofﬁce to the golf course, they can also be a major source of retail sales for you. FIXMEN by Quantum introduces three separate gift sets (Look Good, Feel Good and Smell Good) that will do just as they claim. The Smell Good set includes the aromatic notes of the new ofﬁcial Fix Fragrance, shave cream, three-in-one shampoo/

conditioner/body wash and a towel—the perfect gift for the dad who likes to keep things active. Redken for Men is offering a Daddy’s Day gift pack that includes a Mint Clean Shampoo and a Work Hard Molding Paste. The gift that keeps on giving, it will save your clients 23 to 37 per cent. With any purchase of both a Matrix Men Clean Rush Shampoo and a 20 per cent discounted Matrix Men styler, clients will receive a complimentary running arm wallet/phone case. The perfect gift for a dad on the go.—MB

www FIXMEN by Quantum Info: 800.267.4676

salon > may+june 09

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Redken for Men Info: redken.ca

Matrix Man Info: matrix.com

• For more info on men’s products including FIXMEN’s new HeadDr. treatment shampoo, visit salon52.ca

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4/21/09 12:56:24 PM

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HAIRLINES

news

Education Next

he salon industry is an ardent believer in advanced education. But when new trends and techniques pop up every season, the need to solidify your knowledge of hairstyling fundamentals grows as well. joico’s new j-cutting j-color educational series, comprising three cutting and three colouring DVDs, is designed to go back to the basics. Damien carney, joico international artistic director,

co-creator of the program and host of the haircutting-focused DVDs, sees j-cutting j-color as a comprehensive cutting and colouring program that educates, stimulates and sets the foundation for all hairstyling systems. “it’s philosophies and principles that we can use on anybody with any hair texture to create endless arrays using an abundance of techniques,” explains carney, noting that all advanced cutting systems

are grounded in three basic styling elements—length, line and layers. the colour series, developed by joico international artistic colour director sue pemberton, is similarly based on three fundamental concepts: vertical, horizontal and diagonal colour placement. “if you truly learn and understand these foundations and principles,” says pemberton, “you’ll unlock the artistry of colouring and foil

placement and you can produce anything imaginable.” Despite j-cutting j-color’s back-to-basics approach, carney is adamant that the DVDs are not only for stylists just out of school. “they’re for anybody,” he says. “they are for people who are just joining the industry or people who are already in the industry and want to refresh, review and renew their approach to the principles of cutting and colouring hair.”—MA

photos courtesy joico

Joico launches J-Cutting J-Color educational DVD series

Happy Birthday! From top: Alain Pereque accepts the Master Stylist award; Martin Parsons accepts the award for Lifetime Achievement.

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North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) turns 20 this year This year marks the 20th anniversary of the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), one of the most prestigious beauty competitions on the continent. Produced as usual by the Professional Beauty Association (PBA), this year’s show will take place on July 19 during PBA Beauty Week in Las Vegas and honour the first lady of hair, Vivienne Mackinder, with a Lifetime Achievement award. In keeping with the NAHA 20 theme of “Honoring the Work. Stories. Style!” organizers are hoping that all past winners will be in attendance at the show. To recognize these honorees and their contributions to the hairstyling industry, the PBA is offering them free admission to attend and be a part of this year’s celebration. If you’ve won a NAHA, please get in contact with the PBA to ensure your correct contact information is on file so you can receive your ticket. Please contact either Bonnie Bonadeo at 480.281.0424, extension 3424, or bonnie@probeauty.org, or Kathryn Compton at 480.281.0424, extension 3434, or Kathryn@probeauty.org.—AM

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4/21/09 12:56:47 PM

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HAIRLINES

Stay sun-safe with these five products

glaRe guaRd Give sun damage the boot with BC Bonacure’s Sun Guardian Shampoo, After-Sun Treatment and UV-Protection Spray. Reparative and strengthening ingredients such as amino acids, aloe vera extract and allantoin help regenerate and soothe sun-stressed hair and scalps. Info: schwarzkopfprofessional.ca

plant poweR Free-radical damage can affect hair just as much as skin. Aveda’s Sun Care line includes After-Sun Hair Masque, Protective Hair Veil and Hair and Body Cleanser. Each product is formulated with coconut, sunflower and other essential oils to protect against the aging elements of the sun. Info: aveda.com

BamBoo Balance Kaaral’s Happy Sun Hair Protection line is made up of five bamboo-infused products including a shampoo, nourishing mask, protective oil and after-sun serum and regenerating gel. Bamboo restores balance to sundamaged hair structure, while almond oil hydrates. Info: kaaral.com

Ray Ban Even in the dead heat of summer, clients won’t ditch their styling tools. Get them to spritz on Evolve Protect Thermal Styling mist on damp hair to avoid damage from hot tools. The bonus? UV protectants and silicones also shield tresses from heat and humidity damage. Info: 800.267.4676

midas touch Remember dousing your head with spritz-in lighteners in junior high? That was amateur stuff. LP’s new Sun-Touch Lightening Gelée employs the same idea—radiant, natural-looking, sunkissed locks—in a professional-calibre product, part of its Solar Sublime line. Meaning blonde and brunette clients can look like they’re on permanent vacation year round. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

www

Photo Chris tsintziras text anuPa mistry

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• For more of the latest products head to salon52.ca

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4/22/09 5:33:33 PM

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4/19/09 4:48:37 PM

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1/27/09 4:21:40 PM 12/8/08 8:03:55 PM

The Biz Salon Magazine ventures into money matters and career counselling

We begin our special business section by shadowing two talented and brave stylists, one in Toronto and one in Montreal. With a couple of savvy industry experts, we watch their every move for a full workday, carefully examining their customer service, retailing and client retention skills. Although our stylists had tons of natural talent, our experts were able to offer them plenty of stress-free, business-building tips. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised to find that a lot of them apply to you. Read on to take your vocation to the next level.

Illustrations by Charlene Chua

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may+june 09 < salon

4/21/09 12:50:16 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

Case #1:

Superstar Sal By Morella Aguirre

Sal Gennaro, a talented, mild-mannered stylist at Toronto’s Salon Rococo with seven years of pro experience, calls on Liz Cabral-Hinks, senior business management consultant for Venus Beauty Supplies, for a head-to-toe business makeover. Today, on Sal’s first day of what will be a six month journey through the Venus Profitability Program, Liz gives us a snap shot of where he has room to grow.

Sal Gennaro, Salon Rococo, Toronto

What does Liz think? Great job with the meet and greet, Sal. Your warm and personal style is excellent.

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Next time, be sure to offer a thorough consultation. Clients may leave stylists who don’t offer them something new.

Great posture—essential in keeping your energy up. And I love how Sal doesn’t talk about himself. But try to get her talking more about her hair.

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What does Liz think? Retail! There’s plenty of products for her fine hair. Maybe she needs an expert’s recommendation.

A missed opportunity to re-book. You want to keep her as a regular client and avoid her panicking to get an appointment at the last minute.

Great teamwork, but her colour formula should be printed out. It’s more organized and professional-looking.

What does Liz think? It’s good to be quiet while you highlight—then your client doesn’t move her head. You need to talk product at the sink and during the blow-dry and styling.

Sal’s big gap can be solved with strategic scheduling and pre-booking. During a lull, make courtesy calls, confirm appointments, print out colour formulas, do light cleaning, mentor junior staff or read industry magazines.

6:10 p.m.

Salon Magazine is out for the day. Go to salon52.ca to get more biz-building tips from Liz Cabral-HInks and watch Sal’s progress a month into the Venus Profitabiiity Program.

Amazing!

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What does Liz think?

To be continued on salon52.ca…

Could have been an easy pre-book. Get her in the habit of regularly scheduled visits, not last-minute bookings.

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4/21/09 12:50:58 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

Case #2:

Pierre meets Peter By Tina Christopoulos

Pierre Daou, a colourist and stylist at Spa Orazio, in Laval, Quebec, has been a professional colourist and stylist for seven years. His punctuality and good nature have gone a long way in establishing trusting and loyal relationships with his clients. Still, he calls Peter Mahoney, industry expert extraordinaire, to give his business and service skills the once-over.

12: 04 p.m.

Pierre’s first client arrives. When he greets her, the conversation is friendly and humorous. Pierre then goes to the colour room to prepare her colour.

What does Peter think?

We must always be careful to not assume the client wants the so called “usual.” Ask about lifestyle changes, career changes, colour changes, et cetera.

12: 17 p.m.

Pierre’s client realizes she hasn’t been to see

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Pierre Daou, Spa Orazio, Laval, Quebec

him for months. She jokingly complains about Pierre’s booked schedule.

Peter: Clients often use a joking manner to reduce the tension in trying to communicate their needs or wants. Actively listen and address the client’s concerns. Take in the actual meaning of the client’s words as opposed to merely understanding what they are saying.

12:46 p.m.

As he applies her colour, Pierre asks, “So how’s your boyfriend doing?”

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4/22/09 5:26:14 PM

The

EVOLVE

Gives Back Contest This conversation highlights Pierre’s strong interpersonal skills. Pierre, try focusing on your client’s wants and needs to ensure client happiness, retention and referrals—all key success indicators.

12:53 p.m.

Pierre is still applying colour to his first client when his next client arrives. She goes directly to the coatroom. After a couple of minutes, he goes to greet her and takes her to the technical station.

Peter: Remember, it’s always important to establish eye contact and greet a client within 30 seconds of their entering the salon environment.

1: 10 p.m.

Pierre asks his assistant to rinse out his first client. He specifically asks for Redken Color Extend shampoo and conditioner to be used. He’s off to work on client number two…

Peter:

Great recommendation, Pierre! This is also the prime time to explain to your client the benefits of the product.

1: 24 p.m.

After prepping his second client’s colour and leaving her with another trusted assistant, Pierre is back with client number one. She has very fine, limp and straight hair. She says she blow-dries at home but doesn’t really use any products. Pierre listens intently but doesn’t suggest a solution.

Peter:

This would be a great opportunity to explain the benefits of professional products.

1: 40 p.m.

Peter:

Offer pre-booking to ensure client retention. Remember to excite your clients about the possibilities for their hair on their next visit.

1: 50 p.m.

Pierre asks his assistant to rinse his client with a blonde-specific shampoo and apply a reconstructing treatment to help restore and repair any damaged locks.

Peter:

Great use of product placement, PIerre, but who is responsible for the product recommendation to the client—is it you or your assistant?

1: 57 p.m.

Pierre applies Redken Blown Away 09 and starts the blow-dry. She likes a bit of volume, so no straightening iron. He applies a curl cream to finish. All the while he explains to his client what he is using and how it works.

Steve Roy,

founder of the Mane Event, wins the EVOLVE Gives Back Contest! A Toronto-based cut-a-thon, the Mane Event supports the Teresa Group, a non-profit organization helping children affected with HIV and AIDS. In honour of Steve Roy and the Mane Event, EVOLVE wil donate $1,000 to the Teresa Group. Read more about the Mane Event at salon52.ca.

Peter: Great product knowledge, Pierre! It’s always a good idea to show your client the benefits of new products. Our industry is based on constant product innovation and fashion trends, and consumers are always excited about new product launches.

2:20 p.m.

Pierre’s client is styled to perfection. He doesn’t suggest a pre-book because he knows she’s a regular. She likes to call a week before to book, to have a better idea of her schedule.

Peter:

Always offer to pre-book—it’s an added service. It ensures that clients get the day and the time they want. Pre-booking also helps secure a stylist’s revenue.

The Mane Event 2008

Sponsored by

▼

Peter:

Client number one is done. Pierre takes the bill to the reception and returns to his second client. salon52.ca w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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may+june 09 < salon

4/21/09 1:33:13 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

In the lead A guide to great salon leadership By Morella Aguirre

ou’ve mastered the art and science of creating the perfect redhead, and you can custom craft an exquisitely engineered bob. But if you want to run a successful salon, you’re going to need much more than that. A profitable operation needs a solid leader. Here’s our guide to making sure you’re leading your salon in the right direction.

1. Start with a clear vision Ask yourself: Do I know what I want my salon to be when it grows up? The classic salon scenario: You want a full clientele, people who come back to your salon, and you want to pay your bills on time. But is that enough to

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inspire your staff to be the best they can be? Does that make your salon the place to get hair done? Words of wisdom: “It all starts with the leader having a vision of what they want their salon to be and what they want it to become,” say Terri and Steve Cowan, salon business consultants and owners of Professional Salon Concepts. “But a lot of salons are the result of busy hairstylists and often vision statements are based on being a technician and not an owner. So an owner, speaking as a technician, says he wants a full clientele and people coming back to the salon. But you need to ask yourself what you want your reputation to be, how you want your customers to experience your

business, what kind of services you want to offer, what your pricing will be. A vision should state what you want your business to look like.” The bottom line: Know who you are, how you want to serve your guests, how you want to train your staff and what sets you apart from other salons. Be clear and to the point and then interpret and implement your vision throughout your business.

Create a non-negotiable plan of action

Ask yourself: How am I implementing my vision? The classic salon scenario: Part of your vision is to create opportunity for all

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www • Spruce up your leadership skills with tips from our experts on salon52.ca

3. Be clear Ask yourself: Am I sending mixed messages? The classic salon scenario: You’ve implemented an all-black dress code. One busy Saturday, your top colourist comes in wearing a grey shirt. She’s got a full clientele, so you let it go. No one will notice anyway...or will they? Words of wisdom: “Having absolute clarity of objectives and actions brings the vision and the mission of the company to the highest level of alignment,” writes Neil Ducoff, founder and CEO of Strategies Publishing Group and author of No-Compromise Leadership. “It’s like a business GPS, setting the where and the how, and ensuring that the company doesn’t wander off course.” The bottom line: Don’t change your direction. It will confuse staff and guests and compromise your vision.

4. Put the right people in place Ask yourself: Who’s the best person for the job? The classic salon scenario: You have a growing family and a growing salon. You know you can’t devote the time you want to your kids and take your salon to the next level at the same time. Should you give up some responsibilities? Words of wisdom: “You need to find out if you’re the best leader for your company,” says Eveline

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Charles, CEO of EvelineCharles Salons. “Right now, for example, I have two children, so I have a president who’s taking over my company. He’s a phenomenal leader who will take us to a whole other level. So if you’re not the best leader for your company, then you have to hire a better leader. Just because you are the owner of the company doesn’t mean you have to be the CEO.” The bottom line: Figure out your strengths and the strengths of your staff and make sure everyone is in a role that suits their skill set.

5. Set systems Ask yourself: Do we have clear procedures? The classic salon scenario: Your junior stylist needs to up his retail sales. You told him he needs to get his numbers up, and he agreed. But nothing has changed. You tell him again, but he still can’t deliver. What gives? Words of wisdom: “People don’t change easily, but you can create a system or a set of procedures that people can follow. For a lot of young stylists, retailing is a gut-wrenching experience, but if you give them a good system—something like, tell the client about the product, write it down for them on a prescription pad, escort them to the front retail area, et cetera—then it becomes easier,” advises Ducoff. The bottom line: Leaders help to communicate the objective or vision. A well-managed system implements it.

Be courageous

Ask yourself: Are you nipping your salon’s problems in the bud? The classic salon scenario: Your top stylist can bring in the big bucks but has a major attitude problem. It’s getting worse by the day and affecting your salon’s morale. If you confront her about it, you risk losing your top earner. Can you afford taking that chance? Words of wisdom: According to Ducoff, “Leadership gets compromised when a leader acknowledges a problem but does nothing out of fear or to avoid confrontation. At some point a leader needs to engage that stylist and say, ‘This is unacceptable behaviour that needs to

be changed.’ Then the leader needs to have an additional conversation telling that stylist what steps will be taken if the behaviour doesn’t change.” The bottom line: Leaders need to have guts. They must be able to confront problems in order to find the right solutions.

7. Get to know your numbers Ask yourself: Do I know how many guests we’ve serviced today, how many service dollars have come in, how much we have made in take-home, and how many clients we have rescheduled? The classic salon scenario: At the end of each day you know that you balance out. But looking much more into your numbers gives you a bad headache. You’re a hairstylist, for god’s sake, not an accountant. Words of wisdom: “Sometimes a leader has to take on things that may not be fun to engage in,” says Ducoff. “You have no choice. This is the job that you have, and if you want to be in that role you have to make peace with the numbers. You can’t lead a successful company otherwise.” The bottom line: Cutters deal with degrees and angles. Colourists deal with formulas. Salon leaders need to deal with the critical numbers at their salon in order to be accountable for their business.

8. Make time to lead Ask yourself: How many hours a day do I take to lead and nurture my business? The classic salon scenario: You have a loyal clientele keeping you busy eight hours a day. This means you can only devote two hours a day to leading and management. Is that enough? Words of wisdom: “When I was working on the floor, I was really working in my business instead of working on my business,” says Eveline Charles. “That’s where about 95 per cent of people in our industry get caught— working eight to 10 hours a day as a stylist and not really leading the business.” The bottom line: If you chose to be your salon’s leader, ensure you make time to lead. Make it a priority. ▼

your employees. In this industry that means a commitment to ongoing education. But your staff doesn’t seem to want to get on board. What’s the deal? Words of wisdom: “Make a list of nonnegotiables at your salon and make sure everyone is aware of it,” says Terri Cowan. “This will help you protect what you are trying to create in your organization. Your list needs to be specific, not casual, and can cover anything from dress code to punctuality.” The bottom line: Make sure your team knows what is and is not acceptable. If you want your staff to commit to education, for example, make sure they’re aware that in order to work at your salon they need to take at least one cutting or colouring class a month. That’s your salon’s policy and it’s non-negotiable.

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4/22/09 5:27:04 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

The reception exception Leave the buffing and filing to the estheticians. Why your reception staff should never have a dull moment. By Anupa Mistry

t’s a universal annoyance to walk into a salon—busy or not—and be ignored by staff. And while any staff member can greet, your front line person plays a crucial role when it comes to building a relationship between your salon and clients. “We want our front line to create an unforgettable experience for every guest from the moment they walk into our salons,” says Chantal Puddicombe, general manager for Zennkai and Megahair salons. “The coordinator—Zennkai’s term for front-end staff—is the bridge to all information that passes to and from our guests.” Vasile Tsinokas, co-owner of Valentino’s Grande Salon in Whitby, ON, also believes great customer service skills are the foundation of a solid front-end team. “They’re the first and last people in contact with clients and can make or break your business as far as I’m concerned,” he says. “Many salon owners and managers don’t realize the receptionist role should pay for itself in terms of how much they can generate promoting services and retailing.” Tsinokas’s large salon balances great customer service and generating cash by delegating tasks to the front-of-house team. “Have a retail coordinator who can spend five or 10 minutes with a client. It’s the difference between that person walking out with four or five products as opposed to zero,” he explains. “We don’t rush to cash out clients because one person is in charge of the money, another retails and so on.” But salons aren’t always bustling, so aside from utilizing multiple team members for individualized customer service, how can you maximize your receptionist during downtime?

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“There shouldn’t really be any downtime,” states Tsinokas. “We have downtime lists for when phones aren’t ringing or clients aren’t around, with tasks like restocking, cleaning shelves, merchandising stock and so on.” Puddicombe agrees, adding, “We believe the busier the salon looks, the busier the salon will get.” From follow-up calls thanking guests and ensuring they were satisfied with their visit to ongoing education, Zennkai’s coordinators are constantly working with management to build service retention and retail revenue. One of the last and most daunting areas of front-end expertise is technology. “Not only does the salon software book our appointments and track our cash, it can also filter so much information on our business,” says Puddicombe, who uses Edge at Zennkai. Tsinokas, a Millennium software user, says incorporating complex and powerful software can be “intimidating, but when you challenge yourself and step out of the box, that’s when you grow.” Deanne Kelleher, head of education for Milano Software, explains that a

front-end team member can gather invaluable information, allowing for better communication with the customer. “You can update and track mailing lists, birthdays, memberships, spending habits and so on. It’s more than just a booking system, it’s a solid marketing tool.” Often owners and managers are not as comfortable with computers, says Kelleher. “Staff can quickly enter information, cash clients out and create service codes with minimal understanding of service cost or balancing inventory,” she says. “The challenge for the owner is balancing freedom for tech-savvy staff members while emphasizing the importance of the data.” Kelleher suggests seeking out software suppliers with intensive and supportive training programs. “Milano’s Demo Data makes sense because it allows staff to work with familiar information and complete transactions or data entry without affecting the actual numbers. There’s nothing worse than being able to do everything in training aside from completing a transaction and unable to see the end result.”

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4/21/09 12:44:34 PM

Oh baby! Dealing with maternity in the salon By Tina Christopoulos

n this business, we rely heavily on building a strong trust and loyalty with clients, so what happens when a stylist gets pregnant and needs time off? Considering females dominate the workforce and fathers now have a right to paternity leave, this is a question that should be on every salon owner’s mind. Here we outline some tips on how to be supportive while still making your business a priority.

Plan ahead

Make the environment safe and comfortable “This is a physically demanding industry, and standing on your feet all day is not easy at the best of times,” says Kanani. Doreen Belliveau, director of marketing, Chatters Canada, says at their salons they remove responsibilities that could create health issues for the stylist, allow more frequent breaks and provide cutting stools so stylists spend less time on their feet. Legislation on health and safety provisions can vary from province to province, so it’s important to be informed. Visit the Health Canada website or your province’s occupational health and safety commission for more info.

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Keep clients in the salon “This is when you realize how important it is to maintain your clients’ information,” says Kanani. Ensure your salon computer software has a client database feature. Kanani also recommends allowing clients to share in the excitement. “Let them know when the stylist’s last day is scheduled and keep them updated on the pregnancy.” Meanwhile, recommending another stylist while their regular one is on maternity leave and offering incentives will keep a client’s business within the salon. It’s also important to let them know when their regular stylist is coming back and what her schedule will be. “It’s not just about hair, it’s about building relationships with your clients so they want to come back and share in the excitement of the new arrival,” says Kanani.

Be fair and flexible “Allow your stylists full maternity leave— and early maternity leave if required—and welcome them back with open arms,” says Belliveau. “It’s important to tell stylists that

while they’re away someone else will take special care of their client list and their spot’s open for them when they come back.” Work with stylists to adjust their hours and modify their schedule. Belliveau sees this as a plus. “It adds diversity for the salon to have numerous types of positions—full time, part time and variations of shifts that allow people to work, for example, just evenings or just middays.” Maria Bikas from Maria Bikas Salon, a working mother herself, says the best thing for a stylist to do is transition back. “Nobody really takes full maternity leave,” she says. “After two months you come back one day a week, then two months later two days and so on, so as to not lose your clientele. A lot of clients will rebook if you’re back soon enough, but they probably won’t wait for very long.” Rasa Jurenas, owner of Studio Rasa and a mom with another baby on the way, says, “If you’re a good stylist and your clients love you, they will come back. Trust me, you can have both. It’s just a matter of learning how to balance.” t

“Assess each case individually,” says Yasmin Kanani of Toni & Guy, Vancouver. “Some stylists want to work to the end of their pregnancy and others develop complications that don’t allow them to continue working.” She advises discussing ahead of time how the stylist’s schedule will change in terms of breaks, days off and prenatal appointments. Having a strict set of guidelines that your staff is aware of will also ease the transition. Making hard decisions when you care about your staff and their growing families can be difficult. But in the end, you need to do what’s best for the salon, too.

may+june 09 < salon

4/21/09 12:44:24 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

Up your game Experts give a step-by-step guide for guaranteed retail success By Melissa Brazier STEP 1: Alter the approach When it comes to selling professional hair products, salons have to compete with drugstores, online retailers and beauty outlets. The trick to maintaining a competitive edge is incorporating retailing into your salon’s core values. Ray Civello, president and CEO of Collega International, says simply, “It’s what we do in salons—we use products. We have to be able to provide clients with the ability to reproduce the look we’ve created.” Although the new generation of stylists has less resistance to retailing, owners should ensure that existing employees and new hires know that this is a non-negotiable part of their job. Civello says, “Help them understand the strong connection that exists between service, retailing and client retention. When that connection is made, they'll see it as keeping and growing their clientele.”

STEP 2: Make the space Retailing needs its own place in the salon. Civello suggests creating a welllit, accessible retail space (not just a few shelves behind the front desk) so customers can identify that they are in a merchandise environment. Eveline Charles, CEO of EvelineCharles Salons, suggests a minimalist approach in choosing product lines. Not only will your space look cluttered with 10 lines of

www • Get more retailing tips from our experts at salon52.ca

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product sitting out, but Charles fears your inventory will be too high. Bill Moreland, director of marketing and operations for Suki’s International, says the rule is “If it isn’t moving, it isn’t stocked.” Retail areas should also be kept up to date. When introducing new products, scale back on some of the older ones. Charles says keeping things fresh stops staff and customers from getting bored.

STEP 3: Educate and motivate “If your staff haven’t tried the product themselves and don’t believe in it, they will always have a problem with sales,” says Charles. Avoid clients taking their bucks elsewhere by teaching your staff to quit talking about themselves and focus on keeping the service educational. “Stylists should explain every step of the way what they are doing and how the client can use the products at home,” she says. Civello also suggests staff incentives that range from retail compensation to movie gift certificates for your top-selling

stylist. He also uses a mentor strategy, partnering stylists who are skilled at retailing with those whose numbers are lower. However, Civello warns that your staff can’t be overzealous. Stylists should avoid selling products the client doesn’t need as this destroys their credibility.

STEP 4: Crunch the numbers Owners should meticulously track retail numbers. Civello advises looking at overall retail as a percentage of your business and then analyzing walk-in purchases versus retail sold by your operators. “Take a look at all the metrics, meet with every staff member, set goals for each individual and measure them every week,” he says.

STEP 5: Be recession-proof The recession can actually be perfect for retailing. See the manicure as a chance to encourage clients to buy the polish and do at-home touch-ups. Or, offer colourpreserving products to colour clients who are stretching out their appointments.

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4/22/09 5:28:50 PM

The Soft Sell

A big part of your business is anticipating your clients' retail needs before they leave the chair By Stan Byrne

1. For the jet-setters Whether your clients travel often or want to try a small sample before committing, Joico’s (joico.com) new Travel Minis are available in 50mL bottles for the Color Endure, Moisture Recovery and K-Pak lines. Messy beach hair isn’t always appropriate when travelling for work. CHI’s (farouk.com) Travel Kit has the solution with a mini-sized flatiron, hair dryer and small bottles of the Infra styling line.

2. For the boomers A smart owner caters to the needs of the over40 crowd. Matrix (matrix.com) has launched rejuvathérapie, an anti-aging solution formulated with omega-3s to moisturize dry hair, lycopene (an extract from tomatoes) to protect against aging and rice bran to strengthen the hair.

3. For the overdoers Redken’s (redken.ca) Chemistry line is a two-step 10-minute sink-side service that can be the perfect add-on for clients with damaged hair. Step one is the Shot Phase, available in five formulas—Colour Extend, Extreme, All-Soft, Smooth Down and Real Control. Combine up to three for a customized treatment. Finish the service off with Shot PHiX to lock in specialized ingredients. Then upsell with Redken’s related retail products for at home care.

4. For the prom queens

▼

Prom is a great time for some serious bling. Offer added pizzazz to an everyday manicure with Cina’s (cinapro.com) nail art. Prom queen and her mom fighting over permanent blue streaks? Retail a temporary alternative, Hair Streakers, available through First Lady (firstladyproducts.com). In no time at all you can increase the value of your service.

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may+june 09 < salon

4/22/09 5:29:28 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

The recruit How to give your hiring style a tune-up By Morella Aguirre

ven though a lot of owners tell him that there’s a shortage of good hairstylists, Neil Ducoff, founder of business consultation company Strategies Publishing Group, won’t have any of it. “I don’t think there is a labour shortage,” he states. “If there is a turnover problem in the business, then there is a leadership problem. People quit leaders, not salons.” Liz Cabral-Hinks, senior business consultant for Venus Beauty Supplies, agrees. “Hairstyling schools are still fairly busy, so I believe that salon owners must be having a hard time finding qualified stylists, as opposed to finding a stylist.” According to Ducoff and Cabral-Hinks, the biggest mistake salon owners make when hiring is putting too much weight on whether a candidate has a clientele. “A salon should only hire when the salon is busy,” says Ducoff, asserting that owners should never bring in extra staff with the objective of getting busier. “If you are hiring because of how much business a stylist can bring to you, then you can actually become a hostage to that stylist. They can come in with a following and leave with a following.” Cabral-Hinks adds that “salon owners should look at other attributes that will be much more important—things like technical ability, personality, passion, creativity and ambition. You can grow a client base very quickly with these attributes.” Another important thing to consider when looking for salon staff is whether you want to hire a recent graduate or a stylist with experience. “If you hire motivated kids out of school, you need to give them enough time and experience to be able to

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perform at a higher level. So the pay may not be as high, but the cost of training them is,” explains Ducoff. “Hiring someone with a lot of experience saves you money in development, but you may be bringing in some bad habits, and it will be your responsibility to teach and coach the right behaviour that fits your business.” Salon business coaches Terri and Steve Cowan of Professional Salon Concepts believe that hiring go-getter school grads is the better option. “If you hire people from another salon, they may leave you for another salon,” says Terri Cowan. “Also, you need to make a 365-day-a-year recruiting campaign. Owners always say they don’t have time to recruit, so they only call the schools when they are in crisis.” At this point, owners are being reactive and not putting enough thought into the process. The Cowans suggest creating a solid career path to motivate potential candidates, then putting together a press kit and going to schools to look for target applicants. Once you’ve got your eye on a keener, ask him or her to come in to the salon for a

quick look-see or interview. “We like doing a clinical interview,” says Terri Cowan. “I ask them to take me through high school and bring me to the present. I ask whether they had any responsibilities during school, like a part-time job, to see if training or coaching is foreign to them, for example. I also see if we have fun during the interview, because if we have fun with them, then we know our guests will have fun with them too.” For a senior stylist, Ducoff suggests asking questions like: Do you know what your firsttime-client retention rate is? How are you at working in a business that has a lot of systems and standards you need to meet? Do you enjoy working in a team? Are you comfortable around constant change? So how do you hang on to good staff once you’ve got them? “At the end of the day, stylists want a good working environment that is structured, fair and acknowledges them for their efforts,” says Cabral-Hinks. “Implementing a good structure is an important start, and making the salon an enjoyable place to work is key.”

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www • Are you ready to get growing? Go to salon52.ca for more tricks of the trade

Face value Giving you all the tools to expand your esthetics business By Melissa Brazier

Become a party planner It takes work to target new clients. Sherrard suggests thinking outside the box, as unconventional methods can bring in clients who need a different means of attraction. Tips: • Host events. Have a skin workshop for clients and their friends and include a coupon to come back for a free service or gift with purchase. Plan events around holidays, or offer teen specials at prom time. • Network with other local businesses and set up mutually beneficial cross- promotions. • Getting involved with a charity not only increases your team’s morale, but clients (new and loyal) love a company that values philanthropy. Add a little bonus Turn new patrons into loyal clients by always adding value, as

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opposed to discounting. Increasing your value creates buzz marketing (word of mouth), which has proven to be the best form of advertisement. Tips: • If your space is salon-meets-spa, give colour clients a complimentary skin analysis while their hair is processing. • Invite waiting clients to play at the skin bar—a two-fold opportunity for retailing and education. Build the bond Clients want to be in trusted hands. Sherrard says the more clients trust you, the more likely they are to purchase retail based on your expertise. Tips: • Do a thorough analysis and offer a written, customized skin prescription. • Display certificates of completed courses so clients feel you’re educated to serve them better. It also makes you look like a real pro.

• Skin concerns take time to develop, and will take time to treat. Offer a series of treatments, giving the client realistic expectations and helping to sustain a growing business. Target your marketing Clients get bored with the same old services. Sherrard advises businesses to increase their visits by continually introducing innovative services and treatments. Tips: • Send your clients postcards or customized e-blasts advertising new services. • Display media coverage cards in your waiting area, showing where your salon’s new products and services have been featured. • Finally, Sherrard says to be aware of all the business tools your manufacturer offers. For more tips, check out dermalogica.ca and sign up for business seminars or online webinars. ▼

olly Sherrard, education manager with Dermalogica Canada and the International Dermal Institute, presents her top tips for growing your esthetics business.

may+june 09 < salon

4/22/09 5:30:19 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

Smart shooter How to budget your Contessa shoot By Tina Christopoulos

udgeting your money wisely is always a smart idea, no matter what the economic climate. So, as Contessa fever rises—only a few months until deadline—we checked in with past winners and photographer Babak for tips on managing your money when preparing a shoot.

Invest in…

Scale down on…

Show off your skills at this year’s Contessas. Find a complete entry package at salon52.ca

“Professional models are limited in terms of cut and colour,” says The Lounge Hair Studio’s Martin Hillier, 2007 Session Hairstylist of the Year. “They’re not always a good investment. Look for people with that spark in their eye. They can be 4 feet tall but have a great face.” Deagle sources his models from everyday life. “I’m always looking for a strong bone structure and physique, so I have a good inventory of available

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models.” Jurenas also suggests offering models an 8 -by-10 photo for their portfolio as a thank-you gift in lieu of payment. You can also cut corners with wardrobe styling. “I use the internet and magazines for my concepts,” shares Deagle. “Building from this, I create the styling myself.” Jurenas advises using creative problemsolving. “Ask to borrow the clothes from stores or make your own. Think outside the box.” But if you are going to dish out on a stylist, do it wisely. “Remember that you can spend thousands on one gorgeous dress, but in the end you will only have one shot,” Babak says. “Instead you can hire a stylist with experience and he or she can double your looks. They know how to source the best clothes, and sometimes for free.”

Make the most of… “...your team,” says Babak. “If you already have a great makeup artist or nail technician in your salon, don’t hire others.” Deagle adds that he often uses makeup artists who are looking to branch out and build a new portfolio. “It’s

mutually beneficial and the cost is minimal.” Also, capitalize on the space you already have. “You don’t need a massive set,” explains Babak. “All you’re really looking for are close-ups.”

Aim for… “Having a vision—it’s free!” says Babak. “If you’re doing a collection just to win a trophy, then you’re wasting your time and money. It’s better to lose with a collection of great images, which you can send for editorial consideration or use as marketing material, than to win with a collection you can’t use.” Babak suggests aiming for longevity in your images. “An image is like a song— you don’t want a one-hit wonder no one remembers the next year.” Invest in a theme and create different looks for each photo. Be prepared. “This helps everyone work more efficiently. Planning ahead makes a difference and costs nothing,” says Hillier. Also, before anything else, create a storyboard and see where your budget should be going. “Think big, but always bring it back to what you can afford,” says Hillier. ▼

“I would spend most of my budget on a great photographer and lighting,” says Moods Hair Salon’s Christopher Deagle, 2009 British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year. If you’re shopping for a photographer, in addition to consulting the Contessa list on salon52.ca, five-time Contessa winner Rasa Jurenas recommends interviewing potential candidates. “You have to be sure he or she is the best photographer for you.” For 2008 Session Hairstylist of the Year Melanie Belanger, always being available for side jobs got her the connection she needed. “Whenever anyone asks you to participate in something, even if it doesn’t pay, do it,” she says. “After all, you never know who you’re going to meet next.”

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4/19/09 4:48:05 PM

SPECIAL BUSINESS SECTION

Meet our Business Experts Doreen Belliveau is the director of marketing for Chatters Canada, the country’s biggest chain of salons. They have been recognized for their Business Excellence twice, at the Global Salon Business Awards of 2006 and 2008. Info: chatters.ca

From CEOs to consultants, we found the best and the brightest to help achieve your business goals Neil Ducoff is the founder and CEO of Strategies Publishing Group, a business training and coaching company specializing in the salon and spa industries, and the author of No-Compromise Leadership. Info: strategies.com, nocompromiseleadership.com Deanne Kelleher is head of education for Milano

Liz Cabral-Hinks is senior business management consultant for Venus Beauty Supplies. With over 24 years in the industry, Cabral-Hinks played a key role in developing the acclaimed Venus Profitability Program. Info: venusbeauty.com

Eveline Charles is CEO of EvelineCharles Salons and Academy. This award-winning entrepreneur is one of the most recognized names in the Canadian salon and spa industry. Info: evelinecharles.com

Tanya Chernova is an entrepreneur, business coach and educator for the salon workspace. A professional speaker and author, Chernova is also a renowned skin specialist and creator of Time Reverse, an award-winning non-surgical facelift brand. Info: tanyachernova.com Ray Civello is the CEO and president of Collega International and the Canadian distributor of Aveda products. He has been a leader in environmentalism, beauty and wellness for over three decades. Info: civello.com

Software and has worked with multinational corporations and small businesses in the health and beauty industry for over 20 years. Info: milanosoftware.com

Peter Mahoney is the owner and president of the Head Shoppe group of companies and founder of Salon Consultants International Inc. (SCII). Mahoney provides education and coaching for salon professionals across Canada and the US. Info: salonmastery.com Bill Moreland is the director of marketing and operations for Suki’s International, a company comprising of one spa, four salons and the Suki’s Advanced Academy and employing about 130 people. Info: sukis.com

Holly Sherrard is an education manager with Dermalogica Canada and the International Dermal Institute. She regularly lectures and trains students and instructors across Canada. Info: dermalogica.ca Valentino’s Grande Salon in Whitby, ON, was

Terri and Steve Cowan are the owners of Professional Salon Concepts, a business consulting firm specializing in the salon industry. They have been consultants for A Robert Cromeans Salons and have combined efforts with John Paul Mitchell Systems. Info: pscspace.com

the recipient of the first-ever award for Business Excellence at the 2009 Contessa Awards. Info: valentinos.ca

Zennkai Salon , a six-salon group in BC, was recognized in 2006 and 2008 for Business Excellence at the Global Salon Business Awards. Info: zennkai.com S

Calling all Business Gurus The Contessa Business Excellence Award is up for grabs for another year. It’s your opportunity to show your fellow Canadians what you’re made of. If your salon is a well-oiled machine, go to salon52.ca and get your application form today. 46

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Page 1

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO May 3 - 4 | June 7- 8 | July 19 -20 CALGARY May 24 -2 5 VANCOUVER July 26 -27 MONTREAL June 14 -1 5 QUEBEC May 24 -2 5 *In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths® Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

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Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

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4/19/09 4:39:22 PM

salon > may+june 09

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4/21/09 1:13:15 PM

punk out London Hairdresser of the Year 07 and finalist for 08 Karine Jackson’s Geo-Street collection captures the essence of a younger generation

Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

arine Jackson owns a salon in the heart of London’s Covent Garden, where she is well situated for seeing the trends that develop among the younger crowds. For her latest collection, titled Geo-Street, the inspiration came from a combination of people-watching and catwalk trends. This graphic collection has a definite youthful, punk vibe combining strong pointed shapes, precise fringes and bold colours. Jackson wanted the wardrobe to capture this sense of youth—and complement her edgy hairstyles—so she went with customized denim and big bangle accessories. When asked to describe this collection’s mood, she concisely comments, “It’s fresh, bright and funky.” S

Collection: Geo-Street Hair: Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Hair and Beauty, London, UK Photos: Andrew O’Toole

www • See more of this edgy collection on salon52.ca.

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may+june 09 < salon

4/22/09 5:34:48 PM

www â&#x20AC;˘ Check out all the looks from The Magnetic collection on salon52.ca.

salon > may+june 09

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The Magnetic

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4/21/09 1:14:21 PM

opposites attract Mainstream and underground collide in The Magnetic collection by La Biosthetique

The Viv

Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

hat do Vivienne Westwood, Grace Jones and Edie Sedgwick have in common? They were all icons who straddled the line between mass appeal and underground cool. This magnetism—idolized by many, but still questioning the status quo—is the inspiration for La Biosthetique’s spring/summer collection. Each cut in the four-image collection is unconventional and full of movement and clashing colour placement that grabs the eye’s attention. “The Viv” is a shaggy, super-lightened crop that takes its cue from Blondie frontwoman Debbie Harry, Vivienne Westwood and 1970s New York punk. Edie Sedgwick— the muse of pop art genius Andy Warhol—is the vision behind “The Muse,” a choppy and layered mid-length cut in a true copper. Grace Jones’s androgyny inspires the extreme lengths in the ultra-short “The Rad,” and her flamboyancy manifests in the title look “The Magnetic”—a very blonde, textured cut with contrasting pastel panels of colour. S

The Muse

The Rad

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Collection: The Magnetic Hair: The Viv, The Rad Cut: Jörg Zimmer, Colour: Maurizio Randazzo Hair: The Muse, The Magnetic Cut: Stéphane Gallien, Colour: Marc Riese Photos: Oliver Helbig

may+june 09 < salon

4/22/09 5:37:17 PM

salon > may+june 09

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4/21/09 1:09:24 PM

go with the flow Matrix launches its 2009 Trend Collection titled Individuality In The Flow Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

air as an artistic medium is fluid and flexible. And there really is no limit to what you can do when working with it. Matrix’s Global Design Team took this concept and let freedom reign with their trend collection for 09 titled Individuality In The Flow. Each look exemplifies pure originality, channelling modern shapes and vibrant colours. Sexy is the order of the day, with a Veronica Lake peek-a-boo fringe, soft tumbling waves, a slicked-back men’s look and more. The collection also displays a varied palette of colours: berry red highlights unfold from a rich auburn base, light blonde touches complement golden browns and long ebony tresses are enhanced with fiery streaks of copper. S

Hair: Matrix Global Design Team Photos: Courtesy Matrix

www • Roch Lemay describes the creativity behind the looks of Individuality In the Flow.

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may+june 09 < salon

4/22/09 5:38:56 PM

salon > may+june 09

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4/21/09 1:06:04 PM

Yin and yang Aveda’s artistic team presents a high-contrast collection for spring/summer 09

Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

in and yang are defined as opposing forces that are interdependent. Aveda’s latest collection, titled Prism, takes this concept of contrast and masterfully applies it to hair. These looks incorporate bright to dark colours, smooth to spiky textures and straight to tightly coiled coifs. “This collection reflects a fascination with contrast and the intensity and depth of colour found in prisms. We’ve taken strong colours and seamlessly blended them with deceptively intricate cuts and styling techniques,” explains Antoinette Beenders, VP and global creative director. Stylist Kurt Kueffner adds that he wanted to model the looks after fabric, incorporating the feel of ruffles through unfolding curls and tidy pleats through pinstraight hair. S

Collection: Prism, Aveda Creative Direction: Antoinette Beenders Hair: Kurt Kueffner, Ricardo Dinis Colour: Ian Michael Black Makeup: Rudy Miles www Wardrobe: Marie Chaix • To see more of the Prism collection by Aveda, head to Photos: Miguel Reveriego salon52.ca.

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may+june 09 < salon

4/21/09 2:27:11 PM

class in session Rudy Pignataro tells the story of an innocent schoolgirl’s transformation into a young woman with his latest collection, A+

Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

aking his career in more of a session direction, Contessa winner Rudy Pignataro likes to work with a wild card in play. In other words, he doesn’t fear the unpredictability of a photo shoot; in fact, he relishes

the thought. His latest collection, titled A+, is no exception. Going into this shoot without a set-in-stone vision, he had no idea what his fingers would create that day. After flipping through the 14-year-old model’s portfolio and consulting with photographer David Hou and Giovanni makeup artist Sophie Hsin, Pignataro got to work on the four distinct looks. Of this collection, Pignataro says, “The ideas just came naturally. Hair is not perfect, so I didn’t want the looks to be clean or crisp. I wanted lots of volume, flow and movement.” S

Collection: A+ Hair: Rudy Pignataro, Salon G&A, Toronto Makeup: Sophie Hsin Photos: David Hou

www • Peruse the complete A+ collection on salon52.ca.

salon > may+june 09

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4/22/09 5:41:37 PM

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4/19/09 4:27:25 PM

rapunzel, rapunzel! Kaaral brings texture to the forefront with the lengthy manes of its latest collection, Dynamic

“

Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

ong, free and natural” best describes the looks of the most recent collection by Kaaral, titled Dynamic. Whether just grazing the shoulders or resting well beyond, each look brings forth the natural texture and movement of lengthy hair for an ultra-glam vibe. Fitting for summer, this collection partners 80s-influenced bright fashions— pops of pink, orange and yellow—with bohemian hairstyles. The Kaaral creative team is bringing originality back to the lengthy tresses of yesteryear with crimped and über-teased frizz, messy and undone curls and a blanket of soft waves. S

Collection: Dynamic, Kaaral Hair: Kaaral Creative Team Photos: Alfredo Bernasconi

www • Visit salon52.ca to see the entire Dynamic collection.

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4/21/09 1:08:22 PM

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3/7/09 4:00:45 PM

uptown updo Balmain modernizes timeless beauty Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

omen with straight hair will always attest to their desire for boundless texture and volume. With this in mind, Balmain introduces a return to sophistication with its latest collection, titled Elegance. Think Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner or Joan Fontaine and you are on the right tract. Whether tightly coiled and swept into a sexy updo or large, wispy and loosely pinned to the side, this collection represents old Hollywood glamour with a modern approach. S

Collection: Elegance, Balmain Hair: Steven Goldsworthy, Vicky Turner, Jason Smith, Daniella Chivers, Vicky Chadwick Makeup: Lucy Pook Wardrobe: Bernard Connolly Photos: Jim Crone 60

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www â&#x20AC;˘ For the full Elegance collection, head to salon52.ca.

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4/22/09 5:42:17 PM

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4/19/09 4:44:31 PM

silent classic

Fabio Sementilli updates old glamour with new colour Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

or Old Hollywood Re-Visited, Wella Canada creative director Fabio Sementilli took his inspiration from a Canadian-born screen siren renowned for her long waves. After reading Mary Pickford’s biography, Sementilli decided to create a collection inspired by what the 1920s silent screen star’s comp card would look like. The result is a series of images marrying old shapes with modern styling—like rounded, edgy bobs and flared-out ends—and decorated with unconventional colouring in bright blue and electric violet. S

Collection: Old Hollywood Re-Visited Hair: Fabio Sementilli Makeup: Monica Sementilli Photos: edwardkowal.com

www • For step-by-steps and to hear Sementilli talk about his collection, head to salon52.ca.

salon > may+june 09

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4/21/09 1:07:46 PM

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4/19/09 4:40:38 PM

COLOUR

Lighten Up By Melissa Brazier

salon > may+june 09

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GOLDWELL’S SILKLIFT LIGHTENING SYSTEM There’s nothing worse than broken and brittle blonde hair. Avoid this scenario with Goldwell’s new SilkLift Lightening System, a high-performance, shine-enhancing lifting range. Including two lighteners—one strong for lifting up to seven levels and another gentle for lifting up to five levels—the SilkLift system is suitable for a wide variety of hair textures and colours. The lighteners also contain ShieldTechnology, which stops the SilkproteinComplex conditioning agents from breaking down during oxidation, thus preventing damage to the hair. The conditioning cream developers (available in 10, 20 and 30 volume) have a rich consistency for an even working area. The SilkLift lightening system also comes with a highly concentrated intensive conditioning serum, which can be formulated into the mix right in front of your client. Suggesting this extra conditioning as an add-on to a colour service not only gives you an opportunity to up-sell your service but it will also encourage client loyalty since it smoothes the cuticle structure, leaving hair looking and feeling great.

ColleCtion: Blonde nuit HAiR: RAe PAlMeR foR SCHwARzkoPf PRofeSSionAl PHotoS: AndRew o'toole

Check out three of the latest lightening systems that will have clients begging for more blonde

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Blondes will always be a mainstay of any salon. And with Wella’s new Blondor Powder and Blondor Cream, you’ll be able to achieve everything from an icy cool platinum to a rich honey blonde. With a gentle, ammonia-free formula and moistureretaining lipids, Blondor allows you to attain the desired shade of blonde without damaging hair. Whether it’s highlights, all-over colour or colour correction, Blondor Powder and Blondor Cream do it all. The dust-free powder is great for both on-and off-scalp applications, while the cream is gentle enough for lightening the finest of hair. Think of them as a one-stop shop for all your lightening needs.

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JOICO’S VERO K-PAK CRÈME LIGHTENER Joico’s introduction of the new fragrance-free Vero K-Pak Crème Lightener gives up to eight levels of lift without risking dryness and dullness. This highlighting system features Joico’s patented Quadramine Complex, protecting and conditioning hair’s natural lipid structure during the lifting process. Infused with fatty acids and vitamin E-and A-rich shea butter, this ultra-nourishing formula soothes the scalp and protects hair‘s intergity and elasticity. Mineral oils give a creamy consistency for an even lift along the entire hair shaft and further condition the hair for a soft and silky finish. Plus no objectionable odour; this cream lightener will make going blonde a pleasant experience for both you and your client. t

WELLA’S BLONDOR POWDER AND CREAM

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COLOUR Top six tips from Schwarzkopf Professional’s Blonde Ambassador for Canada, Stacey Staley: 1. UNDER-PROMISE AND OVER-DELIVER After the consultation, give clients a realistic idea of what will be possible in one visit. If you overextend yourself or get expectations up too high, you may compromise the hair’s condition in order to get the look they want. 2. READ THE NATURAL LEVEL CORRECTLY Pay attention to whether they are a cool or warm natural. Many of us believe that natural cools will lift easier, faster and clearer than their warm counterparts. The opposite is true. Cool naturals are high in eumelanin and low in phaeomelanin, whereas warm blondes are high in phaeomelanin and low in eumelanin. Eumelanin is darker and denser (making it harder to lift) and phaeomelanin is a light and more diffused pigment (making it easier to lift). 3. FORMULATE LIKE A CHEMIST. TAKE NOTES AND PRESCRIBE LIKE A DOCTOR When you formulate clients, find out their

history and carefully examine their hair. Not all lighteners are created equal, and what you use on the first and last client of the day is always different. Take notes because consistency is key with repeat blonde clients. 4. GIVE YOUR CLIENT FACE TIME During consultation, also pay attention to the face. Examine the face shape, skin tone and colour of your guest’s eyes and ask about her makeup routine. 5. BE ASSERTIVE ENOUGH WITH THE CLIENT We need to listen, but the client also needs to hear our suggestions. Refuse to let bad blondes walk out with your name on them. 6. PRESCRIBE AT-HOME CARE No matter how beautiful the blonde is in the salon, if your client isn’t caring for it properly with the right products, styling tools and methods, his or her hair will end up looking like all the other run-of-the-mill blondes.

Staley’s latest home-care prescription includes SKP’s BLONDME Shine Magnifying Spray: “Among the first to sample the Shine Magnifying Spray, I was skeptical. Shine sprays often claim to be light and nongreasy. Then you spray it on and you have an oil slick on your head. But this spray is different. I find it actually is lightweight, non-greasy and works well as a cutting aid and detangler on wet hair too.”—SS

Brunette Babes L’Oréal Professionnel crosses over to the dark side with new brown hues

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THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS Have you conquered the art of beautiful blondes, brilliant brunettes and more? Prove it by entering Contessa‘s new Master Colourist category . Check out salon52.ca for full details.

PHOTO COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

ver hear the expression “Blondes have more fun”? Not true. With the launch of L’Oréal Professionnel’s latest collection of Majirel shades, titled French Browns, clients and stylists alike are having more fun than ever. Brown hair colour works with a wide variety of skin tones and eye colours, and will most definitely always be a part of salon life. LP Majirel’s French Browns has a wide palette of colours ranging from caramel to dark chocolate, giving stylists unlimited options for creating deep, natural browns. But fear not, the formula still contains Majirel’s signature Ionène-G and Incell technology, ensuring that hair is reinforced and protected. Think Sophia Loren and Angelina Jolie and you will realize brunettes have always had just as much trend-setting power as their blonde bombshell counterparts. S

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Model Stylists

PROFILE

Image is everything—especially in the beauty industry. Three young stylists tell us why their unique styles work. By Anupa Mistry

the promoter

ason Macaraig is out of commission, temporarily unable to do the work he’s been passionate about since he started cutting friends’ hair in middle school. “I’ve never taken a break,” says the 24-year-old barber who's on leave from working at The Forum in the north end of Toronto to nurse a broken wrist. Having a decade-long career at a young age means Macaraig is already established. He has a regular clientele—including friends he used to cut from home in high school—and has branded himself and his work as “Get Faded.” Since beginning at a barbershop four years ago he’s insisted on working by appointment only, and regularly cuts hair for Toronto rapper Drake and artists like Nas and 88-Keys who come through Toronto, all to boost his brand and fill a void he thinks exists for Canadian barbers. “In Toronto there aren’t many well-established barbershops,” he explains. “I’m trying to provide a service for young males—who are becoming more image-conscious—because they want to look fresh too.” “I find that barbering works so much like the regular salons do: word of mouth is crucial,” he says. “So I’m trying to brand myself as a barber and work by appointment only, so that men can know they’re getting quality work done at their convenience.” He admits that giving his service an aura of exclusivity does narrow his demographic, but, as he says, “I’m not trying to cut everybody. I’m only looking for those people who want ‘that guy, that barber.’”

Macaraig, who is resident barber for Inquiring Mind, an online men’s lifestyle magazine, describes his style as “clean, simple and street.” Under the barber jacket he sports every day, Macaraig usually wears jeans, T-shirts and sneakers from high-end men’s street wear stores such as Ransom and Goodfoot—a style that definitely reflects a young, image-conscious clientele. Still, Macaraig maintains standards for his work attire. “I want to bring some sort of professionalism to the image of the barbershop. I don’t want my clients to feel unappreciated and feel their barber doesn’t care.” Biggest no-no: “They say there are two things you shouldn’t talk about in the barbershop: politics and religion. So I try to stay away from things of that nature, aside from a rosary, which I sometimes wear under my shirt. If I can’t defend what I’m wearing, then I won’t wear it.” t

PHOTOS NAOMI HILTZ MAcArAIg STyLed By ANdrew "OrANge" FerguSON

image conscious

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PROFILE

the rebel

n educator for Wahl and owner of Toronto’s Glam Studio Gallery, 25-year-old Kat Marcus says her rise to success has been a series of uncanny coincidences. Unhappy working in a coffee shop when she was 16, she followed through on a customer suggestion to interview for a job as a shampoo girl. “I just fell into it, so I didn’t really love it until about six months in because I was just washing hair and getting $2 tips,” she confesses. But that changed when she met hairstylists and saw how satisfied they were with their work. “I saw that people could be so happy and creative,” she explains. “I’ve met so few hairstylists who hate their job, so by the time I finished high school, I decided I was going to do it.” Marcus ended up at Avola College, where extracurricular activities exposed her to work outside the salon. “It spiralled into working in movies, fashion and runway for a while,” says Marcus, adding that she retained clients by always squeezing them into her schedule. But a desire to get back behind the chair, and another coffee shop suggestion—this time from her then-boyfriend’s customer—landed her a gig at a now-defunct salon. After fumbling and trying to keep the space open—“We were 22 years old and we had so much money to keep track of!”—Marcus and her current business partner, Daina Schreiber, opened Glam. Described as a collective made up of a makeup artist, photographer and, at one point, a tattoo artist, the creative space allows Marcus, Schreiber and the other professionals to work independently while cutting costs. “I think a collective is the way of the future,” says Marcus. “I don’t want to be running 15 other chairs, because I’ve seen people go from being a hairstylist to a boss, which is so different.”

image conscious

“There’s nothing I won’t do,” says quirky Marcus, who shops at Urban Outfitters and 69 Vintage. “You have to look unique. If I walk into a salon and see everyone in black and wearing the same thing, I wouldn’t know who to go to.” Marcus answers to herself and has an established clientele used to a relaxed salon atmosphere. But what about when she’s on the clock for Wahl? “We don’t have a dress code, but you have to be mindful,” she explains, laughing about when she was told—very apologetically—to ditch a 70s ski jacket. “For hair shows I tend to wear more black. It’s just a very slightly toned-down way of dressing.” Biggest no-no: “If my roots are starting to show I’ll wear a really cute hat to work. And I think details are important, such as keeping my fingernails well groomed.”

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PROFILE

the competitor

career other than hairstyling was never an option for 25-year-old Gianpaolo Columbo. Born to parents who are both in the business of hair, Columbo got his start at the age of 12, sweeping hair and fetching coffees for clients of his father’s North York salon, Hairafter Salon & Spa. “Since I was a little kid, I’ve always wanted to do hair,” he says. “My dad has been saying that I would join the family business all my life.” His path strays from the average story of a son joining the family business because he’s been competing regularly and winning awards for his work since he studied at Marvel College. “When I was 18 I was recognized as a young protégé for a Wella New Talent competition,” says Columbo, now a Goldwell North American Guest Artist. “That was the first award for me, and from there I went on to be a Contessa finalist a few times, and a NAHA finalist, and won cut and colour competitions at the ABA.” Columbo maintains that competing is crucial to his work since it helps build skill. “It teaches you how to express yourself and pick up quick techniques,” he explains. “You learn to judge a shape and do hair faster. “When I first started doing hair, I just wanted to cut. I hated perming and using rollers. But I think if you don’t know the basics, you don’t know hairstyling. A lot of people leave hair school hating finger waving and perming, and just end up flatironing every client. But there’s so much more to hair.”

image conscious At work, Columbo and his co-workers wear black clothes like many other salon employees. He says that despite this, it’s important to stand out. “Your clients come into the salon to find their image,” he explains. “Your selfgrooming is so important, because if you can’t help yourself, how are you going to help someone else?” Columbo checks out H&M and Holt Renfrew for his mix of high and low street-meets-runway fashion style. “But I don’t want to go overboard. It’s about staying classy and appropriate and just adding some punch to what you’re wearing with accessories and hits of colour.” Biggest no-no: “I think it’s really important to not out-dress your clients. If you work in head-to-toe designer clothing, clients may say, ‘This guy doesn’t need my money.’” S

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Architectural Style John Graham talks about his C20 Session Hairstylist collection

By John Graham as told to Stan Byrne

or this collection I was inspired by wearable, current fashion.

I am always looking through magazines, because in my job it’s

important to keep up with the latest trends. You have to make an effort if you live in Winnipeg! When I was creating the collection, fashion trends were emphasizing simple, structured clothing. I was seeing a lot of purple as well as interesting textures, which I wanted to highlight in the hair. My vision was to have a collection that was architectural, and I liked the strong shape of these clothes. Originally, we were going to shoot against a white backdrop. But then the photographer, Babak, and I found two gigantic steel tables at my salon, and we knew they would be perfect for the industrial theme. I don’t usually plan the hair before a shoot or even practise the style on a model. With this collection fashion was the primary focus and the key element of each look. Once the wardrobe and set were in place, then I knew exactly how I wanted the hair to look.

“The model is actually my apprentice at Vault Salon & Spa. The hair was set in knots and small rollers, and held in place with Kérastase Double Force styling spray.”—John Graham

Hair: John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Makeup: Raquel Atienza Wardrobe: Laura DeMarcantonio Photos: Babak

Show off your skills at this year’s Contessas. Find a complete entry package at salon52.ca.

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Take a one-year journey into

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ESTHETICS

Hairy Territory By Anupa Mistry with files from Elevate magazine

Who said primping was easy? Get clients hooked on hair removal services this summer

Wax on, Wax off Everyone is familiar with this method of hair removal—mostly for the pain factor. “Waxing does hurt, but the results are long-lasting and the pain stays for only a split-second,” says Debbie Swinson, a master trainer for GiGi Wax. “And you can ease the pain by paying attention to which way the hair grows, the skin type and alternating between hard and soft wax for different areas of the body.” Swinson says that waxing is a great introduction to hair removal since it can be done on virtually all skin types. “When you wax, you’re pulling hair out from the root,” she explains. “This means that over time, your clients should start to

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notice less growth and finer hair because the follicles get weak from the hair being pulled out.” Down Below by Gee Beauty is a waxing spot in Toronto that offers cheekily named landscaping for the “Southern Hemisphere” (think: Houdini). “Waxing, whether it’s a private area or the legs, takes maintenance,” explains owner Natalie Gee of introducing the service to clients, “but if you’re doing the right kind of waxing and have skilled skin therapists, as we do, then it becomes part of life for that client.” And not only is the type of wax important—Gee seeks out water-based products loaded with soothing aloe vera and vitamin E—client comfort trumps all. “Timing is very important—since it can be uncomfortable, you don’t want to give someone an hour-long wax!”

TIP: Beauty is personal, says Gee. Let clients ask questions and try waxing smaller patches before busting out the Brazilian. PAIN FACTOR: 1/3 TARGET: Legs and down under.

JUPITERIMAGES

s the weather warms up, it’s off with sleeves and in with shorts. Help your clientele, both male and female, ease into exposed skin territory by offering a variety of hair removal services that address different concerns including frequency and type of growth.

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THREADLESS

LASER TAG

Originating in the Middle East, threading has gained popularity in recent years. “Threading is great for all skin types,” says Shahla Shamloo, senior esthetician at Sudis Spa and Salon. “But it’s only for smaller areas—usually facial hair—because it works by pulling each hair out individually using a special technique and a piece of thread.”

Shamloo puts a permanent end to stubble by sealing hair follicles with a laser hair removal machine. She says that during the current money crunch, laser hair removal—which can be done virtually anywhere on the body—might appear to be more costly but is often a better long-term investment.

Perfect for shaping brows, threading has a high ouch factor but is a low-cost addition to an esthetic menu. “If a client is interested in threading, I tell them it’s not painful, it’s uncomfortable,” laughs Shamloo. “However, the pain depends on how people are threaded. You can do threading in a gentle way.” The selling point is the accuracy, says Shamloo. “You can beautifully shape the eyebrows. Full-face threading helps stimulate circulation and, over time, a client may notice less and less hair.”

TIP: Threading offers precision without looking too obvious and therefore is perfect for men or a great add-on to a facial.

PAIN FACTOR: 3/3

JUPITERIMAGES

TARGET: Brows.

A machine that can rapidly detect and differentiate between the darker hair pigment and the skin defines a good laser treatment, says Shamloo, adding that speed also makes the procedure less painful. And because the intense light requires enough difference in pigment, it’s important to advise clients who have either fair skin and fair hair (including grey) or dark skin and dark hair to do in-depth research on machines. Most in-salon machines are capable of targeting a wide range of clients, but be sure to consider colouring since skin pigmentation issues can arise if machines are not operated correctly. Since this service operates at a deeper level, it requires several treatments in order to see long-term results. “It takes time, but this is a service that people seek out, and they often understand what they are getting into,” says Shamloo.

TIP: The biggest roadblock to a steady stream of laser clients is often money, says Shamloo. Be sensitive to this when suggesting the service. PAIN FACTOR: 2/3 TARGET: Anywhere, but especially where hair growth is conspicuous and superfluous such as the upper lip and underarms. S

Financing available through

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NAILS

Nail your retail By Anupa Mistry Across the country, the consensus is that long-lasting nail treatments are in. Manicure junkies are seeking out places like Tips Nail Bar & Spa in Toronto and Vault Salon & Spa in Winnipeg for gel lacquer services that stay put for up to three weeks with no chipping. Try incorporating this technique, pioneered by nail giant CND, into your menu to fit clients’ busy lifestyles. And for all those on-the-go mani-mavens that you service, here are a few add-on products that will keep their fingers and feet pristine—and attractive—between visits.

CND @ NY FA SHIO N WE EK

Light Bright

After the topcoat has been applied and is dry, offer to brighten up a manicure with Cina Nail Art decals. Info: cinapro.com

Last summer’s electric nail colour trend continues. Layer the new Essie neons—in Funky Limelight, Punchy Pink, Flirty Fuchsia or Perky Purple—over an opaque base coat for streak-free application and add Essie’s Non-Yellowing Top Coat for shine and to prevent UVA/UVB rays from warping the hue. Info: essie.com

Tropical Tootsies

Cuticle Care

New to Manicure Pedicure by OPI is a range of fresh and fruity masks and scrubs for hands and feet. Soothe tired toes with a hydrating Cucumber Mask or invigorate sore soles with the yummy Tropical Citrus Mask. Info: opi.com

Get clients in the habit of keeping their nails hydrated by buttering them up with Cuccio’s Cuticle Conditioning Butter Stick. The slim lipstick-style applicator is ultra-convenient, meaning no excuses for ragged tips. Info: cuccio.com S

Art Attack

Daydreamer Orange Marmalade

Cherry Pie

Raspberry Festival

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Strawberry Fields

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Grape Juice

Watermelon Rind

Get a head start on bright summer nails with six new shades from China Glaze’s Summer Days collection. Green, purple and an array of reds get the vibrant treatment with a slightly metallic touch for shine and edge. Info: chinaglaze.com

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Awards Ceremony July 19, 2009 Las Vegas

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Geno Stampora - Hall of Leaders

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INTERIORS

Back to Nature Pure Elements Hair & Body finds a peaceful space to call its new creative home

estled in the heart of the bustling Sherwood Park neighbourhood in Edmonton, Pure Elements Hair & Body captures a sense of nature in a space that focuses on giving the client deeply felt rejuvenation. Originally opened in April 2003, it was in early 07 when salon owner Chad Stewart decided it was time to expand Pure Elements and seek a new, larger location. Finding the perfect place—right down the street from their original address—the entire Pure Elements team took the next two years to plan and custom design every inch of this two-floor, 10,000 sq. ft. locale. “In the old space we were congested, with basically no room for growth,” explains Stewart. This is definitely not the case today. Pure Elements is now 48 staff members strong and growing. Upon entering the salon clients are greeted at reception and can either sit in the adjacent waiting area enjoying a fresh-baked muffin (made daily) or peruse the 1,000 sq. ft. retail boutique featuring hair care products by Schwarzkopf Professional and Aveda, and skin care lines Decléor, M.D. Skin Care and Deserving Thyme. On the weekend, clients can even enter the fully equipped makeup room for a complimentary touch-up. The salon area was designed as an open concept. Stewart’s priority was to minimize congestion, which is why he chose a space with high ceilings and designed the area so stylists would have an impressive 6 feet between their stations. The area is divided into two halves by a 10

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ft. tall and 33 ft. long partition made of faux rock, with five chairs on each side and eight chairs lining the other two walls. This design element, as well as the beige, brown and green colour scheme, transformed this industrial space into a little slice of nature’s paradise. Each station has ample storage room so stylists can neatly tuck away their tools and cords. Stewart says, “I’m not one for clutter, so the stations were designed with this in mind.” In addition, the space has two specific areas designated for colour clients. In the back right side of the salon is the Schwarzkopf colour bar and upstairs is a private processing lounge with a bistro-like atmosphere that overlooks the entire salon below. Continuing through the salon and up to the second floor you find the spa service area, made up of separate lounges—one for men and one for women, plus three romantic couple’s sanctuaries, two for massages and one for pedicures. Nine more treatment rooms, offering everything from a green tea hydrating wrap to hot stone therapy, are also found on the upper level. In its new space, Pure Elements has taken its business to the next level. The salon meets spa now attracts more clientele than ever before, walk-ins have nearly tripled, and as a result of the new retail boutique, monthly sales have increased by $25,000. When asked to describe Pure Elements in four words or less, Stewart says in a nutshell, “Modern, sophisticated, inspirational and calming.” S

PHOTOs BurcH PHOTOgraPHy

By Melissa Brazier

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Name: Pure Elements Hair & Body Info: 108 - 2693 Broadmoor Blvd, Sherwood Park, Edmonton, AB; 780.416.4949; pureelements.ca Owner: Chad Stewart Opened: December 2008 Breakdown: 10,000 sq. ft., 48 staff members,18 stylist stations, four backwash units, one colour bar, six dryer stations, four lounges, one makeup room, one nail enhancement room, eight treatment rooms and two manicure/ pedicure rooms. Retail: Schwarzkopf Professional, Aveda, DeclĂŠor, M.D. Skin Care and Deserving Thyme Management Software: Milano Software Hours of Operation: Mon. to Thurs.: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fri.: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sat.: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

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SCOOP

Net gain

Colour competition Joico’s Vero K-Pak colour competition is on again. One national stylist winner and one national student winner will be selected to receive a bundle of prizes. One before photograph and three after photographs featuring a model coloured with the Vero K-Pak system and styled with Joico products must be submitted to Piidea Canada by Sept. 25, 2009. For more info, visit joico.com.

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Higher power Edwin Johnston was recently promoted from Canadian Artistic Director for KMS California to Global Artistic Director and North American Icon. The 2008 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year and the 2009 Session Hairstylist of the Year is owner of The Cutting Room in Nanaimo, BC.

OOPS! In our April 09 issue on page 30 we incorrectly credited Jim Markham’s involvement with PureOlogy and City of Hope. Jim Markham is the co-founder of PureOlogy and involved with the City of Hope campaign. For more info, visit cityofhope.org/ npsi. Salon Magazine regrets the error.

HAIR: JACOB ROZENBERG, PHOTO DEVIN KARRINGTEN

Still not sure what the Internet can do for you? UANS—a line whose name stands for Urban Attitude, Natural Science—recently experienced the power of personal recommendations and YouTube thanks to user DRBrooklyn730. In the clip, which is now at over 23,000 views, she video blogs about her hair regimen and raves over the hydrating and defrizzing benefits of UANS Thérapi Reconstructor. UANS is distributed by Venus Beauty Supplies and CanRad Beauty Limited. For more info, visit uans.com.

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to Salon Magazine

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❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se188

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NAHA 2009 pg 83 ..............................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.probeauty.org/naha Redken OneXOne pg 21....................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon International 2009 pg 68-69 .................................................................. www.salonexhibitions.co.uk Salon52 pg 35....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca SpaRitual pg 57 .................................................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Star Nail Canada pg 87 .....................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com TIGI Love, Peace and The Planet pg 10-11 ......800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com TIGI Rockaholic pg 25 ......................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com Wigo AbstraX pg 67 ..........................................800-487-8432 ........................ www.wigo.com Woody’s Surf’s Up pg 75...................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.woodysgrooming.com Great Lengths pg 47 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthscanada.com Essie Neon pg 45 .............................................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com Gigi Wax pg 99 ...................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com Redken Color Extend pg 2-3 ............................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Schwarzkopf BlondMe pg 27 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.blondme.com Schwarzkopf clubSKP pg 16 ............................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 4-5 .........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Trilliant pg 6-7 ................................800-267-1962 ........................ www.sebastianprofessional.com/trilliant OPI Higher Learning pg 13 ..............................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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top and centre photos by babak; aLL other photos by mario miotti

EVENTS

Unique 09 Back for a second year, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Unique tour hit cities across Canada, starting in Quebec on Feb. 9 and wrapping up in Vancouver on March 2. On the itinerary was a look at LP’s newest collections (including the Precious Garden collection presented by celeb stylists Royston Blythe and Nick Malenko), the latest product innovations and a staging of semi-finalists for L’Oréal Professionnel’s Color Trophy 09. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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EVENTS

Toronto ABA 09 Stylists and students from across Canada attended the Allied Beauty Associationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest trade show in Toronto at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre March 29 and 30. Highlights included keynote speaker and former Olympian Mark Tewksbury and the ABA and CityLine Ordinary to Extraordinary Makeover competition.

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All About Beauty On March 15 and 16, over 700 beauty professionals gathered at Edmonton’s Shaw Centre for International Beauty Service’s All About Beauty show. The two-day event was a chance for locals in the industry to take in trend and cutting workshops and stage presentations, with appearances by Errol Douglas, Roch Lemay, Kevin Murphy, Jeffrey Altenburg and Neil Ducoff.

La Biosthetique SpringTrends On April 5, about 80 guests gathered in Montreal to have a little champagne, do a little mingling and preview La Biosthetique’s spring 09 trend collections for hair and makeup. Offering not only the trends, but the know-how as well, the colour, cut and makeup teams presented lively stage shows that provided a technical breakdown of each look. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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EVENTS

LG Fashion Week F/W 09 Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nathan Phillips Square was taken over by tents when it played host to LG Fashion Week March 16 to 21. This week gave Canadian designers an opportunity to showcase their Fall/Winter 2009 collections for an ecstatic audience of industry bigwigs, media types and the public. Celebrity cameos included supermodels Iman, Irina Lazareanu and Stacey McKenzie.

may+june 09 salon52.ca VISIT SALON52 FOR THE LATEST INDUSTRY HAPPENINGS

Event Coverage > IBS NY > VANCOUVER ABA > EDMONTON ABA > ABA AGM salon52.ca COLLECTIONS > CONTESSA > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES > POLLS > EDUCATION > JOBS > VIDEOS + MORE

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JPMS Salon Management Seminar On Feb. 22 and 23, salon owners and managers gathered at the Hamilton Convention Centre for a business seminar on proper salon management. Presented by husband and wife duo Terri and Steve Cowan of Professional Salon Concepts and sponsored by Radiant Beauty Supplies Canada, CanRad Beauty Limited and John Paul Mitchell Systems, the event brought salon problems to the forefront and provided comprehensive step-by-step solutions.

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EVENTS

Brennen DeMelo Salon Opens On March 18 in the heart of downtown Toronto, the new Brennen DeMelo Salon hosted a sneak peek event for media, stylists, industry professionals and friends. Owner Brennen DeMelo introduced onlookers to his multi-functional space, which will work as a salon, boutique and promotions company all wrapped into one.

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4/22/09 5:23:11 PM

MAY/JUNE 2009 ABA EDMONTON May 3—4, 2009 Northlands, Edmonton, AB Info: abacanada.com INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA May 3—5, 2009 Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, FL Info: lneonline.com THE FRAMESI SPRING/ SUMMER COLLECTIONS PRESENTATION May 24—26, 2009 Metro Beauty Supply Woodbridge, ON Info: metrobeauty.ca MILANO EXCHANGE May 31—June 1, 2009 Doubletree Conference Centre

Doubletree by Hilton, Toronto Airport, Toronto, ON Info: milanosoftware.com PREMIERE ORLANDO June 7—8, 2009 Orlando Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL Info: premiereshows.com HAIRAPALOOZA VANCOUVER June 14, 2009 Location TBA Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca ALLIED BEAUTY ASSOCIATION AGM June 16—19, 2009 Fairmount Empress Hotel Victoria, BC Info: abacanada.com

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767

Photo credit: Goldwell

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URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Educational Programs Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 18 Issue 07 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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LAST WORD

80s

60s

70s 90s

he other month the Schwarzkopf Academy invited me to present my lecture “Are You Curious?” in Montreal and Toronto. I leapt at the chance. Nothing pleases me more than talking about the craft of hairstyling. A young man in the Montreal audience asked me an interesting question: Which of the decades since my career began do I consider the most creative? Well, for sheer guts and boundlessness, I had to pick the 1980s. It was so much fun. Naturally, though, each era had something distinctive to offer. And I believe that hairstyling, like art, builds upon itself. So I suggest opening a window on each of these decades gone by—and you can judge for yourself. Let’s start with the 1950s, remarkable not only for the invention of the hula-hoop, but also for conformity. Shorter, curled hair ruled. Women used home-permanent kits and rolled their hair to keep the frizzy look away. They either slept on their rollers overnight or sat under huge, domed hairdryers. The portable, bonnet-style hairdryer provided more mobility for in-home use, and the handheld hairdryer, invented in 1920, started to become popular. Hair lacquer played a major role in maintaining the look, particularly at the end of the decade, when TV star Lucille Ball made the poodle cut popular. But never was hairspray more crucial than in the creation and maintenance of that amazing early-1960s phenomenon, the beehive. Ever heard of The Ronettes? (They sang the huge hit song Be My Baby.) I bet you Amy Winehouse has. She wears a 21st-century version of The Ronettes’ bad-girl look, including the beehive, heavy eyeliner and tight skirts. Then, over in England, the Beatles changed everything. Long hair was in, for both sexes. Vidal Sassoon achieved fame for his geometric cuts, or hair was worn parted in the middle, free-flowing and straight. Women started wearing trouser suits. And the only thing shorter than the new miniskirt was the short haircut made popular by 16-year-old English supermodel Twiggy. Weighing 90 pounds, Twiggy ushered in the waif look and a youth revolution. For the first time, fashion focused on young people. To the dismay of most parents, the 1970s made the 60s look conservative.

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Think hot pants (ultra-short shorts), flared trousers, platform shoes, big flyaway collars and shiny clinging Lycra stretch disco pants. Then—horror of horrors!—punk arrived. Punks wore black leather, ripped clothes, spiked hair dyed in neon colours, black makeup and safety pins as earrings. I loved it, especially since it made hair interesting again after the soft perms and shag cuts of the earlier 70s. And now to the decade of New Wave, shoulder pads and BIG hair. Trends such as power suits and prime-time soap dramas like Dallas influenced 1980s hairstyles. Big hair reflected the decade’s preoccupation with wealth and power. And New Wave music contributed to the rise in short, asymmetrical haircuts. A whole host of hair products came on the scene, some containing glitter and sparkles. Hair accessories included headbands, bandanas, big lace bows à la Madonna and clips with feathers and beads. Popular styling techniques included scrunching and crimping. Apart from the appearance of grunge, the Spice Girls and body piercing, I characterize the 1990s as the decade of the supermodels. And they had super, usually long, hair. Cindy Crawford made the cover of leading hair magazines like Sophisticate’s Hairstyle Guide. Blonde bombshell Claudia Schiffer brought breasts back into fashion. And Canada’s chameleon, Linda Evangelista, kept salon cash registers ringing as women strove to keep up with her many dramatic haircut-and-colour changes. This decade? I have to say that so far, I haven’t seen any fashion trends that excite me. But I live in hope. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

TOP PHOTO JUPITERIMAGES STEINBERG PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

In One Era And Out The Other

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