Salon Magazine, May/June 2011

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

Big Business New approaches to retail, building strong client relationships and delving further into digital

may+june 11 $5 salon52.ca

DISCOVER THE INSPIRING The Redken world is an amazing place to be. Our pillars of Education, Science, Inspiration, helping you learn better, earn better and live a better life. http://www.redken.ca/Extreme_science

EDUCATION BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SCIENCE FASHION INSPIRATION

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PROTEIN NETWORK

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Š 2011 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All Rights Reserved.

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64

Monroe hairdressing, u.k.

MaY+june.11 43

big business

44

Mind Your retail biz

The days of professional products being a take it or leave it option are over

48

back to basics

A common sense approach to customer service, plus talking about hair loss

52

16

the wild, wild web

An array of digital tools to help you build your business, plus software options

salon > may+june 11

magazine

the business of beauty and style

features 56

hair collections

The latest styles from Dat Salon, Joico, Sam Burnett, é Salon and Monroe Hairdressing

Big Business New approaches to retail, building strong client relationships and delving further into digital

may+june 11 $5 salon52.ca

68

l salon

bank on a better reputation

First-time and multiple Contessa winners share how it’s changed their careers

regulars 22

editor’s letter

24

publisher’s note

26

salon52.ca

hair: Monroe hairdressing, u.k.

Makeup: natsumi watanabe styling: harris elliott photo: daniel o'connell

This month on salon52.ca

salon52.ca

callinG all StYliStS You maY have visited the Caribbean before

But neVer liKe thiS

Set Sail with uS to experience premiere education to

INSPIRE THE ARTIST IN YOU Damien Carney

Joico international artistic director

Sue Pemberton

Vero K-paK artistic director & naha winner

Ben Mollin

iSo Style Guru & Shear Genius Finalist

George Papanikolas

Š2011

piidea canada ltd., pointe-claire Qc h9r 5n3

Joico celebrity hair colorist

ask your distributor for more information about our destination education 2012 Cruise event or call us directly at 1.800.267.4676 ext. 227 or email destinationeducation@piidea.com available in Canada only.

60

Emiliano Vitale é Salon, Australia

29

58

Sam Burnett RUSH, U.K.

66

HAIRLINES Elan Sassoon’s new line launches in Canada p. 29; Goldwell’s new StyleSign p. 30; OPI’s lastest smash with Serena Williams p. 30; Protect strands from summer p. 31; Tips for the new updos p. 32; Where do you take your IGORA? p. 32; ARROJO comes to ABA Toronto p. 33; Redken’s new solution for thinning hair p. 33; Crimpers from the catwalk p. 34; Essie’s summer nail tricks p. 34; Staff Fav: Volumizing Powders p. 35; International salon swap p. 38; Six picks for your shelves p. 40.

74 76 78

Shaunn Watt of Kokopelli Hair Salon and Body Lounge in Vancouver talks about his Contessa 22 collection for the

PROFILE

COLOUR

How to get and maintain the most in-demand shade

NAILS Natural alternatives to chemical nail care

ESTHETICS A bikini waxer shares secrets from behind the door

INTERIORS: GREEN DESIGNS

A look at how salons are reducing their carbon footprints and how you can too

CONTESSA GALLERY

Men’s Hairstylist of the Year category

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86

SCOOP

89

EVENTS

A Calgary stylist makes her third visit to The Oprah Winfrey Show

Coverage of ABA Toronto, ABS Chicago, ABA Vancouver, Joico’s George Papanikolas, New York New York Grooming Lounge and more

34 18

salon > may+june 11

98 TOOLBOX

LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

FHI HEAT MiniGO crimping iron

salon52.ca

IN THEATRES MAY 20, 2011

NAIL COLOR YOU’RE SURE TO

TREASURE!

Skull & Glossbones

Steady as She Rose

Sparrow Me the Drama

Planks a Lot

Find us on:

Stranger Tides

Mermaid’s Tears

siilver shatter

Apply one coat over COMPLETELY DRY nail lacquer for a look that’s “ARG-uably” the coolest thing you’ll ever see!

© Disney Enterprises, Inc.

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Call 800.341.9999 ©2011 OPI Products Inc.

FREE BEAuTY nEws! Want the inside scoop on cosmetic enhancement, beauty tips and contests? Get Elevate Magazine’s e-newsletter sent straight to your inbox for the latest: anti-aging secrets cosmetic before+afters must-have beauty products exclusive giveaways doctor directories You’ll be the first to know!

EDITOR’S LETTER

A Good Consultation

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Visit elevatemagazine.com

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salon > may+june 11

l

enhancement

l

wellness

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

I

have a confession to make. I am not the most loyal of salon customers. In my own defence, I have moved around quite a bit since I started visiting my first stylist, Christine, in high school. Since then, I have dated, but not found my one and only.

For one thing, the relationship usually starts out on a strong, positive note. But by the third or fourth date, I often run into the same problem. Instead of a proper consultation—asking how I liked my hair after the last cut, if there’s anything about it that’s bugging me, and maybe even suggesting something new or trendy to spice it up—I sit in the chair while my stylist trims up the same shape she gave me the last time… and the time before that, and the time before that.

A good, solid consultation, done on every visit with every client, is such an important part of your business, yet it can easily slip right by. But when you take the extra three minutes to find out what your client really wants and needs, you’ll not only have a happier, more loyal clientele, there’s a good chance that you’ll increase your retail sales, too.

In that short conversation, your client will present you with the problems she has with her hair. That’s your opportunity to give a solution—through cut, colour and retail. Talk to her about the products you’re using during the service, tell her why you chose it and how it’s going to solve her concerns. You’re the expert, and as one of your clients, I can tell you that we want and need your help and advice.

Recently, I found a new stylist. At my first appointment, he asked all the right questions, then gave me a cut I love. I told him I want to continue growing my hair several more inches, but I was a little bored with my straitlaced bob. He gave me more movement, plus an edgy new take on my fringe and instructed me to come back in eight weeks to see how the cut is growing out and keep my style evolving. I walked out the door excited to go back. Could it be love? I’ll keep you posted.

Melissa Hill Editor Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/salon52 or email me at Melissa@beautynet.com. salon52.ca

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 20 issue 7

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@beautynet.com group Art dirECtor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com Editor-in-ChiEf (frEnCh)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com AssoCiAtE Editor

Noelle Stapinsky > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | noelle@beautynet.com onlinE Editor

Marlene Rego > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | marlene@beautynet.com dEsignEr

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

Get in Gear

s a magazine publisher it’s part of my job to spot trends or identify a market shift.

Trends are easy and fun to identify, but market shifts tend to be much harder to pinpoint.

Over the last year or so, recovering from the economic downturn hasn’t been easy for a lot of salons. But in tough times, good business dictates it’s time to review the revenue streams and address opportunities or challenges.

The question is: Are we doing our best to be competitive and offer the best in services?

Naturally, hairstylists want to be sensitive with their clients by not being overly pushy with service and retail recommendations.

However, it’s easy to fall into the trap of prejudging what a client can afford. It’s important to remember that the clients are consumers.

The client experience has never been more critical. Many other businesses have ramped up their customer service—such as highend department stores, top restaurants, etc. These savvy marketers know their competition and understand that customer experience is paramount to winning consumer loyalty.

Now the salon industry is talking customer service in a big way. Companies, such as Redken, are educating salons on the “consultation” as a major service. I feel this is incredibly important and can have a major impact on the salon service and experience for the client.

Speaking of being competitive, the drugstore, with haircare brands that directly target the salon customer, is a fierce competitor.

I’m not talking about diverted product. Take a look at consumer advertising and see how they toss around the term “professional.”

However, salons can have the upper hand by educating their clients [check out "Mind Your Retail Biz," on p. 44].

The cruel reality is that it’s survival of the fittest. If this is a market shift, be sure you’re in the driver’s seat.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

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Jennifer D. Foster Contributors

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com dirECtor of sAlEs & businEss dEvElopMEnt

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com sEnior ACCounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@beautynet.com sAlEs AssoCiAtE

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@beautynet.com produCtion MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com opErAtions MAnAgEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com CirCulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca finAnCE

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com businEss AdMinistrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com ChAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com viCE-prEsidEnt & wEst CoAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

PHOTO: ALvARO GOvEiA, MAkEUP: LANAGMAkEUP.COM

A

Copy Editor

subsCription rAtEs for CAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USd A ddrE ss Ch A n gEs Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada sA l on MAg AZ in E

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

national Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

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2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

Top Five

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recy

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon52.ca

Stylist Neeko, packing heat.

fhiheat.com

salon52.ca what’s on

may+june 11

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

s52 collections > DAT SALON > É SALON > JOICO > ORIBE > PIVOT POINT > SAM BURNETT

s52 job board Craving a career change in 2011? Or want to post a job? Browse our job board for tons of beauty industry opportunities! And remember, posting on the job board is entirely free.

Straight to your inbox!

See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign-up today.

you told us:

What’s your best tip for establishing trust with a client?

“Be professional, share your knowledge and always be honest. Make sure your last haircut of the day is always as good as the first.”

MICHELE TALON: “Consulting is the key. Make sure they know what they’re going to need to achieve their new look. Book a follow up and call them in a week to see how they’re doing.”

MARILYN BINGER: “LISTEN, LISTEN, LISTEN. Take the time to analyze their hair type and personality. They need to trust you and feel their opinions are validated.”

For more on client relationships, go to “Back to Basics,” p. 48

talk to us!

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

26

salon > may+june 11

HAIR: SAM BURNETT, RUSH, U.K., MAKEUP: JO FROST, STYLING: KABIR

LORI SAWATZKY:

salon52.ca

DISCOVER THE INSPIRING WORLD OF REDKEN Redken is a leader in salon business building programs that help you achieve growth in your business. Our programs help stylists learn better, to earn better, and live a better life. http://www.redken.ca/art_of_consultation

EDUCATION BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SCIENCE FASHION INSPIRATION

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WANT INCREASED REFERRALS, RE-BOOKING AND REVENUE? REDKEN PRESENTS: THE ART OF CONSULTATION Fact: 20% of your success is based on your technical skills, while 80% is based on your interpersonal skills.

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The Redken Art of Consultation is a business building seminar that provides you with a clear, easy approach to discover your clients’ wants and to deliver an amazing client experience each and every time.

Set yourself apart from other stylists and guarantee yourself repeat business! Book your class today!

To find out how to be part of it, contact your local Redken distributor

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA 1.866.9.REDKEN

Native Rock Smoke Mauve Crème

Sacred Sands Natural Pink Crème

Pebble Pebble Gray Crème

Moss Moss Green Crème

Driftwood Bleached Wood Crème

Twig Sandstone Crème

evolve ColleCtion In Salon May 1, 2011 Subtle change is in the air with these crème shades inspired by natural elements, peace and simplicity. These six new shades are available in 12-piece and 36-piece lacquer displays. Sparitual vegan nail lacquers and elixirs are free of DBP, Toluene, Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde Resin.

Available for a limited time, while supplies last.

S PAR IT UAL .CO M

8 77.S PA RI T UAL

Distributions France Lecuyer QC 514.272.0222 West coast beauty BC 604.321.2700 MaritiMe beauty suppLy NB, NS, PEI 902.429.8510 aLternative beauty services ON 905.670.0611 suMMit saLon services AB, SK, MB 403.252.6201 internationaL beauty services AB, SK, MB 780.454.3388 icon saLon systeMs BC 604.591.2339 concept Jp QC 450.687.2595

hairlines

news

A Journey to Healthier Hair photos courtesy of sojourn

E

salon52.ca

lan Sassoon, son of industry great Vidal Sassoon, recently launched his new product line in Canada.

Sojourn, which debuted in the U.S. last year, has made a splash by going back to basics and including hair-building blocks cystine and keratine in every SKU for permanent conditioning of the strands.

Each bottle is also clearly labelled with its pH level, something that the majority of professional products did 20 years ago, says the Canadian chemist behind the line, Rob Guimond. Most products have a pH level between 4.5 and 5.5; although, those designed specifically for colour protection are lower, which keeps the cuticle closed for healthier hair and for the preservation of the results of chemical processes like colouring, perming or relaxing.

As important as the products are, the education that Sojourn provides is of equal importance in the founders’ minds. Working with a variety of former Sassoon creative directors and educators, they offer intensive insalon and regional courses focused entirely on cutting. Sojourn creative director Melissa Stone heads up the education team. New Canadian distributor, BryantBeaudryBeauty, has taken on distribution of the line.

For more information on the line, visit SojournBeauty.com. For pictures from the launch, go to Salon52.ca.

may+june 11 < salon

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hairlines

news

What’s Your Sign?

F

A smashing success

T

ennis phenom Serena Williams has teamed up with OPI to create a customized set of nail colours launching throughout 2011, timed to coincide with major tournaments around the world. The first part of the Glam Slam! collection hit the shelves in January during the Australian Open.

The latest, in conjunction with the French Open in May, includes the silver glittered Spark de Triomphe and shimmery pink sunset Rally Pretty Pink, as well as two new Shatters in red and white.

Keep an eye out for new shades during Wimbledon in June and the US Open in August.

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salon > may+june 11

top photos courtesy of goldwell, botttom photo courtesy of opi

ive years after launching their wet line, Goldwell has repackaged it and is relaunching as StyleSign, a streamlined 20-SKU range designed to help stylists working in the salon. The products are divided into six results-oriented categories—Volume, Gloss, Straight, Texture, Natural and Curl— for easy retail recommendations. Goldwell also paid attention to feedback from stylists in creating the new ergonomic design and easy product identification system. The result: comfortable hold, better sizing and great dispensability for professional use. The products are perfect for colour-treated hair, with new shine and protection ingredients that highlight beautiful colour and safeguard from hot tools.

salon52.ca

Elemental Are your clients protecting their strands from summer?

Aveda Sun Care For a UV filter, clients can spray on the Protective Hair Veil before hitting the water. End the day with the Hair and Body Cleanser and After-Sun Hair Masque, which uses tamanu and organic coconut oils to condition.

Goldwell Sun Reflects

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salon52.ca

NTES

CANA

During the day, Leave-In Protect Shimmer-Gel can be used before and after sun exposure to tame and protect. Hair & Body Shampoo and After-Sun 60sec Treatment provides regeneration with a much-needed moisture boost.

colour S

Extra-mild Shampoo soothes sunstressed hair and scalp, while AfterSun Treatment conditions, nourishes and detangles. The leave-in Soft End Fluid targets the ends of the hair to repair and protect from UV, salt, sand and chlorine.

AW ARD

Schwarzkopf BC Sun Protect

AR

The trio includes Aqua-Seal, which is applied to dry strands to lock in moisture and protect them from the rays. Use it with Bain AprèsSoleil, an anti-damage shampoo with a UV filter, and Lait Richesse, an intensive conditioner.

CO

Kérastase Soleil

contessa 22, Quebec Hairstylist of tHe year, Hair: olivier Miotto, GlaM salon boutiQue, Montreal, Qc, Makeup: Jessica Manzo & Julie cHabot pHoto: carl lessard

The sun, wind and waves can do a number on hair— fading colour, roughed up cuticles and breakage. A good UV protectant and some extra conditioning are must-haves to keep cuts and colour in tip-top shape.

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may+june 10 < salon

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HAIRLINES

news

Beauty Queen

F

Quick tips • More sections equal more detail.

• Each placed bobby pin should be crossed with another bobby pin.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

• When hair’s worn down, it doesn’t last. If clients insist, once you’re finished styling it, loosely clip it up until it’s show time.

ire up the hot rollers, stock up on bobby pins and crack open a new bottle of hairspray…prom and wedding season is upon us!

British songbird, Adele, has inspired one of this year’s hottest updo trends—smooth along the sides, side swept fringes and full round shapes at the crown or pushed down toward the neckline. “With Adele’s look she has a full puffy crown that is almost bouffant-ish,” says celebrity hairstylist and updo guru Martin Parsons.

“We’re finding a lot of girls like more fullness in the crown and are using braiding in place of hair bands.”

These looks have a ‘60s flair, but Parsons says that instead of teasing the hair horizontally, these pillow puff styles are created by back brushing vertically so that it follows the shape of the head when it’s smoothed. “You can get a really beautiful silhouette using this technique.

Updos are now a lot softer than what we used to do.

They’re not as rigid, sprayed and uniform…they’re more touchable,” says Parsons.

Adding texture to these pinned up designs is also very popular. Use the thumb waving technique to create a rough wave pattern or a micro crimper for volume and funky accents. For brides-to-be, Parsons says it’s all about the details at the sides and more of a simple design at the back. “When we put together a look, for example, we’ll take two large sections at the back, then three sections behind the ear and divide the hair in five sections in front of the ear. This will create more details around the face.”

“When you look at magazines and see puffed up crazy looking hair, it’s inspiring, but most people are safer than that,” says Parsons. “Even the brides that are wild and crazy will still go for the classic styles. Besides, you have to look at those photos for many years.”

Ready, set, snap!

We want to know: Where do you take your IGORA Royal? Show us a picture of you with your IGORA Royal colour tube and you could win one of three $1,000 shopping sprees courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional. Go to Salon52.ca to upload your photo and complete the registration. Hurry, contest ends July 15, 2011.

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salon52.ca

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Hair loss and thinning are delicate and sometimes emotional topics, especially for women. Help is on the way with a new product solution from Redken. The freshly debuted IntraForce line offers a guarantee to clients of thicker, fuller hair in 30 days or their money back. The line helps prevent hair loss by treating the hair follicle during the early stages of hair thinning.

In addition to an in-salon microdermabrasion treatment for the scalp, the line includes a shampoo, conditioner and styling aid set for either natural or colour-treated thinning hair. There are also three intensive take-home treatments—a leave-in targeting the tougher scalp around the hairline, a thickening foam and a scalp treatment for hair thinning intensified by stress or seasonal changes. For more on helping clients with thinning hair, check out "Back to Basics" on p. 48.

CANA

TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF ARROJO

Plump it Up

CO

E

ducator and salon owner Nick Arrojo debuted his eponymous line of products recently at Toronto’s ABA. The line is designed to be modern, functional and easy to understand to meet the needs of hairstylists, as well as their clients. Along with the line, which is already carried in his salon, comes Arrojo’s unique brand of education and business mentorship, which has made his own business so successful. Reward dollars for the line can be used for backbar products or education, with education dollars redeemable at ARROJO Academy in New York City or at the Artist Choice Studio in Toronto, where Arrojo and his team will host hands-on seminars through the Toronto-based distributor. For more information, visit ArtistChoice.ca.

contessa 22, British columBia hairstylist of the year, hair: christopher Deagle, mooDs hair salon, VancouVer, Bc makeup: Jon hennessey photo: philip Jarmain

Beauty and Business

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may+june 10 < salon

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hairlines

toolbox

Ripple Effect Mini crimpers are all the rage. Used to create volume and texture, top hairstylists are rocking the crimp in collections and on the catwalk.

FHI HEAT MiniGO crimping iron has an advanced heater with auto sense control to reach a maximum of 210o C.

The titanium plates contain negative ions to reduce static and create a glossy finish.

The casing is heat resistant and cool to the touch.

First Lady’s Root Volumizing Iron features an advanced PTC heater to reach maximum heat quickly.

The V-shaped crimp half-inch titanium plates allows you to get close to the scalp to give the roots more lift and volume.

The temperature is adjustable from 60 to 120o C.

hairlines

news

Taking inspiration from the bright, seductive beauty of Brazil, the six new jewel-tone shades of the Summer 2011 Collection from Essie celebrate the best of paradise—just in time for summer. Shades range from brilliant magenta to cool water blues. Essie also offers tips on the little extras you can do to protect your clients’ digits from the sun and sand.

• Summer in the sun can mean dehydration and yellowing of nail colours. Prevent both

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salon > may+june 11

with one or two coats of Non-Yellowing Top Coat Sun Block on finished nails.

• Nourish bare feet so they’re ready for sandal season. Exfoliate, then apply Blank Slate Pre-Manicure Nail Mask to each toe.

Moisturize cuticles with Smooth Trick DeepConditioning Cuticle Oil and wrap feet in chilled towels to allow it to penetrate.

Finish off with a layer of Feed Me Intense Hydration Treatment.

bottom photo courtesy of essie

Perfect 10

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Noelle Stapinsky Associate Editor

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What is your staff fav? Tell us at Facebook.com/salon52 or email Melissa@beautynet.com.

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y graduated, slightly disconnected bob has no problem just lying flat. No matter what I’ve tried, nothing has given me the movement and volume I want, until the first time I sprinkled one of these little, magic powders at the root and worked it through my hair. Finally getting my hair to stick out in all the right places, I started hunting down any volume powders available, and there are many.

I’ve used OSiS’ Dust It, Kevin.Murphy’s Powder Puff, Greg May’s Amped Up, Surface’s Push and Aveda’s Pure Abundance, as well as Unite’s Expanda Dust and American Crew’s Boost Powder, which were both featured in Salon Magazine’s April issue.

Although I won’t divulge a favourite, I will say I always have one or two in my purse, at home and at work. The versatility these products deliver sold me on them, so much so that I’ve even become a bit of a powder peddler amongst my friends and coworkers.

contessa 21, canadian salon team, hair: glam salon boutique, montreal, qc, makeup: julie chabot & jessica manzo, photo: carl lessard

This month I can’t live without…Volumizing Powder.

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Trade Secrets

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salon > may+june 11

“We always wanted to do a photo shoot of collections, but we didn’t have the knowhow,” says Fulbright.

Spencer and her team helped Headlines create a photo shoot from start to finish, including showing them how to choose models, storyboard the collection and find makeup artists.

“The photo shoot we did there was really amazing. It was different from any shoot that we've done, but it was great to take someone who was really green through the process and in the end put her name on something that was pretty fantastic,” says Spencer.

“They also worked with my girls on stepping out of the box with colouring and cutting techniques,” says Fulbright.

Next, back in Mississauga, it was time to get down to business with Fulbright and the Michael's staff.

“Their team meetings were about the latest in colour and cutting and not focused on business,” says Fulbright. “Eufora has an Eight Step Experience, but they were leaving the last couple of steps out by not educating the clients about products. We shared ways we focus on the guest and make sure they take home the retail.”

The Headlines team did one-on-one meetings with the Michael’s staff and helped them set goals.

In the first month after the exchange, Michael’s retail sales per client doubled and have been on a steady incline ever since.

“Gayle gave us some verbiage to go through with clients, for a proper consultation. It starts with asking things like, ‘What are you using on your hair to shampoo and condition it? What styling products are you using?’” says Spencer. “That opens the door for the conversation to continue throughout the appointment. I know my numbers have gone up significantly, which amazes me because it’s the same clients and the same products.”

Fulbright also taught the Michael’s managers how to get out from behind the chair and manage the business. Spencer says they now do one-on-one meetings with their staff regularly to review each stylist’s numbers and set new goals.

After such a successful exchange, both salons are eager to take part in another.

For more on Fulbright’s retail advice, see "Mind Your Retail Biz" on p. 44.

text: noelle stapinksky photos courtesy of kera spencer

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he yin and yang of any creative business is the balance of artistic talent with business management.

For many, the scale is often tipped a little more in one direction.

When salon owner Lina Lomangina and managers Sue Morra and Kera Spencer from Michael’s Hair Body Mind in Mississauga, Ont., met Gayle Fulbright, owner of Headlines for Hair located in Encinitas, Calif., at a conference, they shared laughs talking about their businesses and formed an instant connection.

Fulbright’s salon, although superb in its business management and retailing strategies, needed some help on the creative side, while the Michael’s crew, who thrive on their creative muscle, admitted they could use more structure on the business side.

“So we thought, 'Why don’t we share?'” says Fulbright.

Both are Eufora salons and have a similar structure and culture in place, so they made a plan to have a salon exchange, where staff from each salon would spend a week at the other salon working with the staff to share their strategies.

The Michael’s team went to the California salon first.

Two salons connect in an exchange to strengthen the weak spots of their businesses

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Business Boosters

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Industry pros share new ideas on retail, relationships and expanding your online brand

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t its most basic, the salon business is all about customer service. Did you make your client happy? Will she come back? Will she tell her friends? Most of the time, that level of satisfaction has little to do with the perfect line of her cut and everything to do with how valued she feels as a client when she walks out your door.

From the products you sell (hopefully) to your consultation (you did one, right?) to dealing with online reviews (all good, of course), brush up on your techniques to keep clients coming back.

Model images this section: Hair: Oribe, Makeup: Sonia Kashuk, Styling: Elle Werlin, Photos: Carlos Ruiz

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Mind your retail biz The days of salon retail being a take it or leave it option for clients are over

i “Stylists should really focus on educating the client on products while in the salon.

Ask questions, explore your clients’ needs.”

—Liz Cabral-Hinks, salon management consultant for Venus Salon Profitability Program (VSPP)

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By Noelle Stapinsky

ndustry experts estimate that salon retail sales should be 25 per cent of total revenue, but regardless of how passionate stylists are about their craft, they tend to shy away from talking to their clients about products out of fear that it might be perceived as too pushy.

Let’s face it: most people are unable to self-analyze their hair, and if their stylists aren’t recommending and selling them products, someone else is.

It’s time for a whole new way of thinking about what retailing means to a salon’s business. It’s more than just selling a product, it’s about protecting and nurturing the stunning style the client—your walking advertisement—is going to be sporting until his or her next appointment.

Client education sells If salons are not doing much in terms of retail, it’s often just a lack of focus on product sales as a part of the overall revenue.

Salons choose products they enjoy using, so the question is: If you insist on using a particular product on a client’s hair, why wouldn’t the client want to use it, too?

Selling retail can be as simple as educating clients about their hair and the products that you use.

“Stylists should really focus on educating the client on products while in the salon. Ask questions, explore your

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retail

clients’ needs,” says Liz Cabral-Hinks, salon management consultant for Venus Salon Profitability Program (VSPP). “Understanding their concerns and having a great knowledge of your product line will help sell retail.”

Often, having a client apply product to their hair opens the door for stylists to understand what they might be doing wrong and to coach them with tips on how to use certain products.

“Haircare products are not like food or apparel,” says Peter Millard, New York-based salon retail design consultant. “People know how to wear a sweater. Most men and women need to be told what to use on their hair and how to apply it. Stylists don’t hesitate to charge for a cut and colour, yet there is a hesitancy to tell a client they need to use this product for body, for example, because his or her hair has a tendency to fall flat. Yes, the products cost money, but you’re not selling it for that purpose.”

Knowing your clientele—from the beauty addicts who know about new products before the salon does to the moms looking for value and result-driven products—will help determine which lines to stock.

Cabral-Hinks suggests having two complete lines—a premium line and mainstream products with a competitive price point.

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“There are a lot of consumer products available in the $15 range.

If you offer a mid-stream professional product and explain the value of it, people will pay,” says Cabral-Hinks.

Salons that cherry pick products from different lines will have gaps in what they offer, and that will create issues trying to service clients with the retail.

It’s also important to think of your retail from a consumer’s perspective. Make sure you have a full inventory of products, and keep the shelves well stocked. If there’s only one product left on the shelf, people are often reluctant to take the last one.

Special product promotions will also build up the buzz around your retail offerings.

“Planning is really important if you’re going to do a promotion around retail,” says Cabral-Hinks. “For example, for Mother’s Day offer a package with a shampoo, conditioner and styling aid. Having a hair regime put together and a staff that understands the focus of the promotion will help build the interest with the clientele. It will get people talking and asking about future promotions.”

Finally, placement is everything. Strategically place the promoted product throughout the salon. If there’s a new colour, display the promotion near the back bar or the colour area. t

Photos L-R: david whittakeR, MeLika dez, RoBeRt hoUse, Jason stang

L-R: Donato Salon & Spa, Toronto; Icône Coiffure, Montreal; Salon 277, Belleville, Ont.; SFM Lifestyle Salon & Spa, Calgary.

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retail

“If it’s fussy, people won’t want to disturb it. Besides, it’s not high school; it’s a professional place. Keep your retail displays and signage simple, clean and elegant.”— Millard says

Retail for return clients

The Display Case When a client walks into the salon for an appointment, that service is a given, what’s not are the retail sales.

Peter Millard, a New York-based salon interior design consultant, says that pouncing on a person the moment he or she walks in the door is a lost opportunity for the customer to enjoy a possible retail experience.

“I believe in moving the reception desk back so it’s not in front of the door. If they’re looking at retail, promotions and new launches, don’t interrupt, let them enjoy,” says Millard. “If a client makes eye contact with the receptionist, of course, it’s an opening for communication. And clients who aren’t interested in the retail will simply walk to the reception desk.”

Stylists are creative by nature, but one of the biggest mistakes they make with their retail displays is adding props and decorations, and stacking products in fancy shapes.

“If you have a pyramid stack of products or flowers and ornaments decorating the retail shelves, people won’t want to mess up the display. It’s hard for a client to take the top off the pyramid,” says Cabral-Hinks.

Millard agrees, “If it’s fussy, people won’t want to disturb it.

Besides, it’s not high school; it’s a professional place. Keep your retail displays and signage simple, clean and elegant.”

Millard also urges salons to steer clear of the cube display systems because it’s impossible to show an entire line in a 12inch space, and it breaks it up into sections.

“It’s not expensive to go to Ikea and buy 24- or 30-inch shelves,” says Millard. “Display each product line on its own shelf and label each one so it’s coherent to the customer.”

To make your retail easier to navigate, place products for different hair types together. For example, products for curly hair should be displayed together and clearly labelled. This makes it easier for the customer to find the right shampoo, conditioner and styling products.

According to Millard, Canada has a special flair for retailing. To get inspiration, he suggests visiting high-end department stores, such as Toronto’s Holt Renfrew. Look for the simplicity and strategies in how displays are organized and promotions are placed.

Many salons make a very careful decision with which manufacturer they’ve decided to associate. Communicate the reasons why you believe your retail is the best on the market by promoting it with imagery on the walls or in a statement on your menu of services.

Once you nail down your retail section, it will reinforce your professionalism and present your business as a full-service haircare provider. S

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ou’ve sold a loyal client shampoo, conditioner and styling products, but it doesn’t have to stop there.

Gale Fulbright, owner of Headlines for Hair in Encinitas, Calif., says keeping the momentum of sales going, even with your regular clients, takes planning.

“You have to constantly be introducing new ways of styling their hair and new products to do it with,” says Fulbright. “If your client wears his or her hair curly, show him or her how to blow it out differently and wear it straighter. With that comes a different product or tool.”

It all comes down to the consultation— the listening part of the salon experience.

Of course, sitting back and listening often opens the door for clients to ramble on about their current frustrations in life, but once you get through that, the rest of the appointment can be open dialogue about their hair, what they use and what they like and dislike about it.

And make retail sales a team effort.

Michael’s Hair Body Mind in Mississuaga, Ont., focuses on having a very interactive team—including the receptionists and apprentices.

“Instead of individuals making retail commission, sales commission is based on what the entire salon does,” says Kera Spencer, a manager and stylist at Michael’s.

“We look at the percentage of retail sales every month and if it passes a certain percentage, the front line gets a bonus. It promotes more team work and they’re not competing against each other.”

salon52.ca

Back to Basics A common sense approach to customer service builds your book

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By Melissa Hill

our relationship with a client and the trust you establish trickles down to every element of your success as a stylist. Clients who trust you will return time and again, and buy the products you recommend. And they’ll refer you to their friends. The challenge? Establishing that special relationship with each client. A good place to start is with a great consultation.

A Road Map for Each Appointment A common industry figure states that 20 per cent of a stylist’s success is attributed to his or her technical skills and the other 80 per cent is from interpersonal skills, says Scott Moon, general manager for Redken Canada. “Most education that exists is technical in nature, based on the latest techniques for cutting and colouring, which is great because it touches on the core of what stylists do,” he says. “In reality, though, the typical client won’t see the difference between a good haircut and a great haircut. The noticeable difference to the consumer is minimal. What the consumer will notice is the level of service and the experience he or she had at the salon.”

Five Things You Can Do to Improve Service Celebrity stylist, educator and salon owner Eva Scrivo shares her advice 1. Always stay late and never look at the time. Dinner plans are not as important as being there and being flexible for your clients. Try to be more agreeable and open to your clients’ ideas.

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2.

Remember how uncomfortable it is for the client to communicate. They tend to think that sharing their ideas takes away from your creativity, but it should be somewhat of a creative partnership.

3.

Dress and look the part to be taken seriously and respected as the professional you are. Be an example of what you are selling: beauty. This allows you to charge the prices that you feel are fair for your services.

4.

Be a beauty expert. Learn what the latest trends are in fashion and beauty. Scholars always read, and you need to do the same. Get a subscription to Women’s Wear Daily and read every Friday’s beauty-focused edition.

5.

Never stop going to classes. Education is a lifelong commitment and so is being a part of this industry. When you stop learning you inadvertently stop caring.

salon > may+june 11

salon52.ca

service

The Art of the Consultation

To simplify and help stylists learn how to give a great consultation, Redken offers a new seminar, which includes tools and suggested scripts to complete the easy-tofollow five steps. Here are a few quick tips from the program shared by Scott Moon, general manager of Redken Canada.

A New Visit Every Time While this may be what you do for every new client in the salon, according to Moon, it’s what should be happening every time a client comes to visit— whether it’s a second visit or the 22nd.

“We have a tendency to get in a pattern where we think that a returning client

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just wants an update of what she has.

We don’t take the time to ask her if she's interested in a change,” he says.

“There’s often too much talking on the stylist’s part,” says Eva Scrivo, L'Oréal Professionnel celebrity stylist and educator and owner of Eva Scrivo Salon in New York City. “Listen to your clients, and then when you think you’ve made a decision on how to proceed with a service, give yourself a minute to make sure it’s the right one.” She also suggests pulling swatch books and magazines to clarify that your idea of golden blonde is the same as your client’s.

In a changing business climate, taking the time to listen—and give thoughtful solutions—is important in more ways than one. “We see increasing time between visits and clients who are sensitive about price and looking for increased value,” says Compierchio. “You won’t get them to spend the extra dollars on treatments, colour services or products if you don’t give them the ‘why.’”

Scrivo says she notices a change in this direction among stylists as more are acknowledging how important a good

Start every appointment with a quick chat, sitting face-to-face at the same level as your clients, rather than behind them in the chair. It helps you establish trust with your clients while showing more engagement and interest in them.

2.

Use the consultation time to ask questions that help stimulate new ideas. Have a tool, like a scrapbook with lots of visuals, that you can use to share your personal inspirations with your clients when discussing your vision for their hair.

3.

Be forthcoming with clients about commitments and expectations. Don’t wait until the end of the service to tell them about certain products you recommend or that they will have to come back in four weeks to build on the look you are creating for them.

To find out more about the class, contact your Redken distributor sales consultant or educator.

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When a client comes into the salon, the first step is to find out why he or she is there. “People are not just coming in to get a hair cut,” says salon owner and head stylist Enrico Compierchio, of Enrico Coiffeurs Stylistes in Montreal.

He starts off his consultations by asking a lot of open-ended questions to really suss out, among other things, who his clients are, what they’re looking for, how comfortable they are doing their own hair and the kind of time commitment they can make to maintain their look.

“It may seem to be random thoughts, but when you assess all these things, the next part is to adapt the services based on this information. It’s my reference point for where I go during the appointment, and I may end up doing a different cut and colour than I originally thought,” he says.

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service Starting the Conversation Four tips on talking about thinning hair from industry experts

1.

How well do you know your client? Has she been seeing you for 10 years or is it her first visit? The relationship you have established—or not—can help inform your conversation.

2.

You can start by asking open-ended questions like, “How do you feel about the health of your hair?” This gives clients an opening if they want to discuss the topic.

3.

4.

If a client brings up the topic herself and you’re unsure of how to answer her questions, don’t be afraid to say, “I don’t know.” But make sure to follow it up with, “Can I look into it and get back to you?”

Don’t keep bringing up her concerns throughout the appointment. Keep it short and sweet. Discuss the topic with her and then move on to other things.

consultation is. “We’re becoming better business people and artists. It’s important to acknowledge the link between art and commerce if you want to be successful,” she says.

Dealing with Sensitive Topics When you have a good relationship with a client, it makes talking to him or her about tough topics a lot easier. Whether the client brings it up or you do, a hot discussion right now revolves around hair loss and thinning hair.

Research has shown a surprising amount of people—coming to your salon every day—are concerned about this problem.

According to Danny Lapointe, education manager for P&G Professional's Nioxin, up to 78 per cent of male and female salon clients have thinning hair and 80 per cent of those want to do something about it. Stats collected

by Redken’s IntraForce team show similar results, quoting a Gallup study in 2008 that shows 74 per cent of women and 50 per cent of men claim to be affected by hair loss.

What’s more, your clients are twice as likely to prefer talking to you first versus their doctor, according to a consumer study in 2009 by Peter Lamas Products.

“The increase we’ve seen particularly in

women in the last five to 10 years has been incredible,” says salon owner Rob Pizzuti, who uses IntraForce at EXIT Salon in Toronto.

“But it’s a very delicate subject with women.

Handle the conversation with twice as much care as you think you should, and keep it short and sweet. While it’s still shocking for men to have thinning hair, especially when they’re younger, for women, hair is such a big part of their image.”

Thinning hair and hair loss is something really important for stylists to assess because often you will be the first one to spot a bald spot at the crown or notice abnormalities like redness or scaling on the scalp. Dr. Jennifer Upitis, medical director at the Oak Ridges Dermatology Centre in Richmond Hill, Ont., says both of these conditions should be pointed out to the client, and you should recommend that she sees her family doctor.

For Rico Bumbaca, who uses Nioxin at his salon, Rico of Italy in Etobicoke, Ont., his attention to thinning hair ended up saving the lives of two clients. “When I think hair loss is severe, I tell clients they should go see a doctor. In two of those cases, clients discovered they had cancer,” he says. “One was early stage thyroid cancer.

Both were found in time and they recovered.” S

All About Hair Loss With different types of hair loss and a variety of possible reasons, determining a cause is often done by process of elimination. Dr. Jennifer Upitis, medical director of the Oak Ridges Dermatology Centre in Richmond Hill, Ont., specializes in treating hair loss.

1. First, she takes a look at whether the hair loss is scarring or non-scarring. For the scarring form of hair loss, there are often visible signs of scalp disease, and there is not much that can be done. For non-scarring forms, there can be several different causes, including genetics, stress, trauma, nutrition and hormonal changes.

2. Male pattern baldness is the most commonly seen form of non-scarring hair loss and is also seen in many females. Women typically notice this in the frontal area, while men are afflicted at the crown. If a patient doesn’t have visible bald spots, the next step is to determine the pattern of hair loss.

3. Hair coming out in clumps is typically indicative of some type of stressor, such as a change in medicine, giving birth or having surgery.

4. Any symptoms of the scalp, including itchiness or scaling, are also assessed. Upitis talks to patients about their family history and their diets, as well. She says she sees many vegetarians with thinning hair because of a lack of iron.

5. Finally, a battery of blood tests is conducted to rule out any problems with hormones or the thyroid.

6. From there, patients talk about options, which can range from hairpieces, clips and wigs to medicinal treatments like propecia or minoxidil (commonly known as Rogaine) to hair transplants.

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The Wild, Wild Web

A fantastic array of digital tools and software is but a click away for the smart salon owner aiming to build a strategic and sound business

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By Yasmin Grothé

obody can ignore the power of having an online presence anymore, particularly from a business point of view. From LinkedIn to Twitter to Facebook, participation in digital media is a vital (and, of course, viral) marketing tool that costs mere pennies to operate and is available 24 hours a day from virtually anywhere. Add to that groundbreaking, powerful inventory and client-tracking software, and even the smallest salon owner can now operate like any big beauty business.

Capitalizing on social media Facebook, Twitter, Yelp and other consumer-oriented websites have created a sea change in the way we do business. Some experts call the niche these companies have created the consumer revolution or the participation economy. Yelp, an online referral resource, understood the power of the Internet to amplify the “word-of-mouth” phenomenon when it was founded. With the number of online reviews at 10 million and counting, the site must be doing something right.

Being online is the smart way to go, but how do you manage your Internet presence so that it’s at par with your expertise at creating great haircuts or pedis? Tami Chu, co-owner of Tami Beauté des ongles in Montreal, says, “It’s about communicating the right image online.

You have to be coherent in the way you are presenting yourself both on the Internet and in your bricks and mortar shop. I like to link both my Twitter and Facebook accounts to reflect what’s going on in the salon such as innovative services, special promotions and new colour collections.” While some salons use these online

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digital

channels to book empty appointments slots on the fly, it takes a dedicated person on staff to make sure there are no double-bookings. Salons who have a lot of walkins should be especially cautious of going this route.

“It’s very tricky to manage this effectively if you don’t have a full-time receptionist who will be responsible for those last-minute online bookings. Also, since our salon is located in an area of town that has a lot of pedestrian traffic, we don’t post our available timeslots online. It’s just too much to manage,” says Chu.

Online coupons

t

Groupon is a consumer-powered tool that caters to many businesses effectively, including salons.

Essentially, it’s a social buying site that offers members great deals (many are less than 50 per cent of the normal retail price) for a range of services: hairstyling, massages, facials, pedis, etc. Based in Chicago, the company is expanding at a staggering rate all over the world. How does it work? "Basically, you just go to the grouponworks.com website which will guide you through the process and assess your expectations, then a sales rep in your area will contact you,” says Julie Mossler, spokesperson for Groupon. “It’s also important to get to know the size and type of business you are in to maximize the promotion. That means the client needs to be upfront with us, in order to make this a win-win situation.” After the promotion closes, Groupon immediately sends a cheque to the

Get Your Groupon Julie Mossler, spokesperson for Groupon, shares these tips to maximize a Groupon promotion:

• Clients who partner with Groupon see an

immediate surge in demand. It’s a great problem to have, and the salon will enjoy it. However, it’s important to find strategies to capture these clients in the long run.

• While you are running the promotion, think

about ordering more products or enhancing your services to entice clients to spend more money on add-ons.

• Every Groupon deal the company does also

appears on Facebook or Twitter. So even if a salon isn’t active on these social media websites, it’s like borrowing Groupon's for the day.

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digital

Dealing with less-thanflattering comments on social media Like any sensible PR person will tell you, view this as an opportunity to show current and potential clients that you have really mastered the art of customer service. And whatever you say, don’t be defensive. It can be more damaging to you and your business than any negative review.

Stay Calm: Give yourself a cooling down period.

When someone is using social media to attack your business, it’s normal to get emotional. business with a portion of the funds generated. “We send the money in three instalments to avoid fraud because, let’s face it, anybody can open a pop-up shop somewhere and close it down the next day. If the salon goes out of business we can then return the funds to the customer,” explains Mossler.

However, Groupon is not cheap. It takes 50 per cent of all sales. So is it worth it?

Stéphan W., co-owner of Studio MW in Montreal, saw an immediate surge in bookings when his promotion with Groupon went online and even had to hire a temporary, additional receptionist to deal with the massive flow of calls. However, he points out that "it depends if you want volume or quality. If someone comes into your salon because she wants a deal, you have to ask yourself if that’s the type of customer base you want in the long run. Repeat business can be tricky with these promotional tools that aren’t specifically targeting your ideal customer." He also suggests being very precise in the promotion copy regarding the services you are offering and with which stylist. “I would suggest highlighting your newer, less experienced staff in your promotion to increase their client base. You wouldn’t want your top stylists being involved because then it cheapens their expertise,” he advises.

Tracking your inventory and your clientele Salon software is becoming increasingly sophisticated and tracks not only inventory and clientele patterns, but also optimizes staff management by helping set and monitor employee and team goals, develop incentive programs and set employee-specific commissions.

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Respond: Most online review platforms (Yelp, Yahoo Local, TripAdvisor, Citysearch, etc.) allow business owners to respond to their reviews.

On Yelp, a business owner can respond privately or publicly.

Acknowledge: A good way to do this is by starting with a response such as: “I’m deeply sorry you didn’t have a 5-star experience... ” Then explain how you’ve taken the necessary steps to address the problem.

In order to stay competitive and profitable, even the smallest salon can now bring business to the next level by implementing a management software program.

And, no, it’s not necessarily prohibitive. Some programs, depending on what you decide to focus on, can be surprisingly affordable.

A sound starter software program should help you track appointment bookings and statistics, and produce basic charts and graphs and receipts, even if you are operating a very small salon with only one to two employees.

Bigger operations which focus on the volume of retail sales should be able to track clients and motivate staff, as well as manage inventory with more comprehensive programs that can optimize quantities based on history, create automatic order alerts and purchase orders and help display slow-moving inventory. Of course, a salon can always customize more options that suit its specific needs. S

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PASSIONISTA MAKE YOUR MARK THROUGH THE RED PULSE OF FLAMING PASSION. The Wella Professionals trend vision concept translates globally relevant mega trends into hair and fashion trends. Experience how Koleston Perfect®, Color Touch®, Blondor® and new Wella Professionals Care & Styling create infinite possibilities for your artistic vision through a unique blend of innovation and inspiration.

To learn more about trend vision 2011 speak with your Wella Professionals Sales Consultant or call 1-800-267-1962.

© 2011 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962

All Rights Reserved.

Collection: Marionette Theatre Hair: Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Makeup: Delia Lupan Styling: Amanda Coles Photos: Anna Scetinina

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Puppet Master

Canadian stylist Dat Tran takes a whimsical view of hair and fashion

T

his playful collection marries a touch of theatricality with high fashion. Styled with vintage advertisements in mind, inspiration from the spring/summer 2011 runwaysâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; specifically Betsey Johnson and Vivienne Westwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;runs throughout the collection. S

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Hair: Sam Burnett, RUSH, U.K. Makeup: Jo Frost Styling: Kabir

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Super Power

A modern twist on ‘80s retro style

“M

y latest collection is all about the empowerment of women. I wanted to show that women can be strong, sexy and feminine all at the same time. I wanted the hair to be inspirational yet wearable, with an expensive, polished feel. I took inspiration from the crisp, clean feeling of a Tom Ford campaign while capturing the essence of French Vogue.” S

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Natural Warrior 60

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Collection: Totem Hair: Emiliano Vitale, é Salon, Australia Makeup: Luana Vitale Styling: Peta-Marie Rixon Photos: Paul Scala

Australia’s Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Goes Tribal

i

nspired by warriors of the past, brought forward to the present, this collection displays a raw male sensuality and togetherness.

The hair shows individual direction and strength, with an underlying influence of the '50s quiff. The images won Best Men’s Collection at the 2010/2011 AIPP (Association Internationale Presse Professionnelle Coiffure) Awards. S

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Meeting of the Minds A study in balance, silhouette and contour makes up this new collection

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oico’s newest images explore the answer to the question, “What happens when complete opposites meet?” The result is an analysis of opposites in the light, played out through cut and colour, and a harmonious mélange of contrasting design elements. Carney crafted easily adaptable, ready-to-wear shapes complemented by fresh finishes, while Pemberton applied a yin and yang of light and dark.

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Collection: Smoke and Mirrors Hair: Joico International Artistic Directors Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton Photos: Hama Sanders S

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Volume Vixens A British Hairdressing Awards southern finalistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection mixes sleek lines with beautiful contours

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ntitled Effortless Glamour, this collection by Monroe Hairdressing from Leatherhead, Surrey U.K., embraces an empowering mix of silhouettes and neutral style. The bold fringes, exaggerated bobs and controlled texture evokes a mysterious elegance. S

Collection: Effortless Glamour Hair: Monroe Hairdressing, U.K. Makeup: Natsumi Watanabe Styling: Harris Elliott Photos: Daniel O'Connell

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Brute Strength Shaunn Watt of Kokopelli Hair Salon and Body Lounge in Vancouver discusses his first Contessa entry in the Men’s Hairstylist of the Year category

m

” Contessa 22, Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year Collection: Competing Discourses Hair: Shaunn Watt, Kokopelli Hair Salon and Body Lounge, Vancouver Makeup: Amanda Heise Styling: Michael Bruce Gibson Photos: Alex Waber 66

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en’s hairstyling is my passion. I named my collection Competing Discourses because I wanted to make a statement about what’s happening in men’s grooming. The trend has been toward Mad Men and heavy with product use. I went for that unwashed, really effortless look to show the parting doesn’t have to be perfect, and you can have a beard and still look polished. You don’t see a lot of men’s facial hair in collections and I think the beard and five o’clock shadow really soften the jaw lines and add to the overall look of the hair. I hope this is where men’s grooming is headed.” S

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Bank on a Better Reputation

Alina Sulaiman's winning collection

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SA

NTES

AW ARD

DI A

HA

N

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top photos: Michelle pargee, Milica salonspa, langley, B.c., Makeup: aMBer-rae Derton, photos: greg swales, sylvain Bellerose, Milica salonspa, langley, B.c., Makeup: aMBer-rae Derton, photo: greg swales, alina sulaiMan, tao salon, vancouver, Makeup: Jena Jacquot, photo: toBias schuch

won are on display for everyone to see and their collections decorate the salon walls. “We even have our Contessa wins printed on our business cards,” says Pargee.

Pargee’s advice to new stylists is to enter as soon as they can. “Their first entry might not win, but it’s a learning process,” she says.

The entry deadline for this year's 23rd Annual Contessa Awards is August 9, 2011. Head to salon52.ca/contessas for rules and regulations and to download the entry form. S

CANA

Sylvain Bellerose's winning collection

clientele not only for myself, but also for the entire salon,” says Pargee. “Clients read about it in Salon Magazine or in local news articles and beg for appointments.

At one point my front desk staff told me there were five new guests per day asking for appointments based on a newspaper story on us.”

One of Pargee’s master stylists, Sylvain Bellerose, also brought home a Contessa for Avant Garde Hairstylist of the Year for 2011.

Currently, the staff at Milica SalonSpa participates in three photo shoots per year. “The buzz the shoots create gets all of our clients excited, and people are attracted to the creative and inspired atmosphere we have,” says Pargee.

Having the media embrace Pargee’s business achievements has made them all local celebrities.

Newcomer of the Year winner for 2011, Alina Sulaiman from Tao Salon in Vancouver, has also experienced an upswing in business.

“It has given me more recognition. My clients tell others I’m an award winner and refer them to me. It’s nice,” says Sulaiman. Her salon is also in the process of opening a new location, and the owners are using her collection to help market it.

At Milica SalonSpa, the awards they’ve

AR

airstylists are a passionate bunch, to say the least.

While engaging in the industry’s competitions not only gets you recognition by fellow stylists, it can also be used as an effective marketing tool for attracting new clientele—in droves—to your salon.

For Michelle Pargee, owner of Milica SalonSpa in Langley, B.C., and four-time Contessa winner for Master Colourist and Makeover Colourist of the Year in both 2010 and 2011, entering competitions was about the reason she got into hairstyling—to create. However, bringing home the prestigious awards has had a profound effect on her business.

“I can’t begin to quantify how much it has improved my business. It’s increased

CO

H

How entering the Contessas, the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year awards, benefits your bottom line By Noelle Stapinsky

IR

STY

E LIST OF TH

YE

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profile

I

magine having your life’s dirty laundry revealed on television.

Then, to make matters worse, a big secret is exposed leaving you absolutely mortified in front of 25 million viewers.

For Calgary’s Trina Marr, saying 2004 wasn’t her best year is a bit of an understatement. Seven years ago, the salon owner and mother of two young daughters, was in a troubled marriage and weighed 200 pounds. Then, the 32-year-old, five-foot-five-inch stylist joined the cast of Life Network’s Taking It Off; a nation-wide program with camera crews catching every moment of Marr’s life as she tried to lose the weight.

Canadians weren’t the only ones glued to the reality show. A producer working for the queen of daytime TV was captivated by Marr’s heated debates with husband, Trevor. In March 2005, the couple appeared on The Oprah Winfrey Show. The topic? “You’re Not The Person I Married.” What happened next was like a car crash. Oprah surprised Marr with behind-the-scenes footage from the reality show of Trevor flirting with women at the gym.

“The humiliation was painful. It was more than I could bear,” says Marr. “I realized Oprah’s production team had all the episodes of Taking It Off, but I had only seen the first three.”

After a follow-up appearance two

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months later, Marr told Oprah and millions of viewers, “I’m going to lose 180 pounds of dead weight by divorcing Trevor the minute I get off this stage.”

She followed through, but Marr’s world spiralled down for the next two years. The only thing that was up was her weight—250 pounds. Then, she had to close her salon because the building was going to be demolished. “It was an easy way out. I went from salon owner to stylist. I felt I was that girl on Oprah; failing my daughters, myself and living like a hermit.”

Finally the self-pity party—as Marr calls it—was ended when a client introduced her to a women’s roller derby league. She found herself surrounded by women who didn’t judge her weight.

“Being on Calgary’s Cutthroat Cutters was a world where I could feel good about myself because my derby friends had positive attitudes toward their bodies,” she says. Her team never asked her to lose weight; on the contrary, they were thrilled she’d be a better hitter. It was during a team victory celebration that the new Trina Marr, who was high on life but still more than 200 pounds, met Mario Mayhofer, a guy who loved her just the way she was. Even so, she continued to take off the weight, dropping a total of 95 pounds.

Marr’s advice to hair industry types

By Colette Wright

waging war on weight is to get active.

“Pounds dropped because I was skating three times a week,” she says. Marr acknowledges that it can be a struggle as a stylist when you’re booked solid all day and sneak back to devour anything quickly before the next client arrives. “I stock my drawers at work with healthy snacks like fruit and whole-grain bars.”

She also says it helps if your salon owner installs a functional kitchen so stylists can prepare meals rather than order takeout.

Today, the CaVaBien Hair Studio stylist is also the Canadian manager for Hair Flairs (hairflairs.com), makers of hair extension tinsels and feathers.

The hair bling has become a hot hair accessory for red carpet celebs, as well as everyday women.

Last January, the trim 155-pound Marr had a chance to show those 25 million viewers all the ways her life has turned around in six years. She appeared on Oprah again, but this time, her new husband, Mayhofer, accompanied her to the show after their recent wedding in Austria. The icing on the cake was what happened post-show. The smart businesswoman wore Hair Flairs during her interview, and Oprah asked Marr questions about the sparkle in her hair.

When the show aired, Marr’s phone rang off the hook: “That day, Hair Flairs had a 2,000 per cent increase." S

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photos courtesy of trina marr

Second Chance

After hitting rock bottom, a Calgary stylist scores a total life transformation through rollerskating, hair and a little flair.

Papaya Punch

108 Degrees

Se単orita Bonita

Blue Iguana

Cha Cha Cha

Electric Pineapple

colour

Seeing Red With the shade experiencing a resurgence, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how to make your fiery clients happy.

christina hendrick

rihanna pixie geldof

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By Melissa Hill

jayma may s

s

marcia cross

kathy griffin

cynthia nixon

salon52.ca

W

hat do you think about when you think about red? Better yet, who do you think about? With so many celebrities modelling a variety of fiery shades, it’s easy to see why red’s popularity is rising again in the salon.

“Redheads tend to be bold and not afraid to be noticed,” says Timothy Switzer, North American guest artist for Goldwell and owner of Timothy and Company Salon and Spa in Oshawa, Ont. “Redheads wear their hair, their hair doesn’t wear them.”

clients with pale skin and bluish undertones, he advises cooler, icy, transparent reds.

KeepinG the ColouR According to Minardi, the first step to making sure red is maintained is ensuring your clients see you at least every six weeks for a touchup. She also suggests that when clients come back, you refresh their shade with a non-ammonia colour. “When ammonia colour is brought down the hair shaft, the hair turns a muddy brown or becomes flat looking,” she says.

The second solution to keeping red from washing down the drain is retail. “The biggest struggle is convincing clients that they have to use proper home care,” says Switzer. “If they’re not using the right products, they’re going to end up with fading. It’s unavoidable.”

But that’s also true of any colour. The problem is that reds have a particular vibrancy that blondes and as close as you’ll get to a brunettes do not. When that intensity “natural” redhead… disappears, red hair appears to be fading Schwarzkopf faster than the other shades. Switzer Professional’s Essensity says a hair mask and a product with a UV brand has just introduced absorber or protectant in it are both must- five new copper shades, ranging from light to dark, haves to send home with his clients. He to its lineup of reds. All also advises looking for products with a of the Essensity colours lower pH to keep the cuticle closed and are free of ammonia, as well as odour, silicones, help stop red molecules from escaping.

With good colour protection products, parabens, alcohol and formaldehyde derivates. clients can prolong their hair's vibrancy www.schwarzkopfand intensity, and make them happier professional.com with their colour service—and you.

One final piece of advise from Ford: “Don’t be afraid. Reds are exciting. I think many hairstylists are afraid to suggest red to their clients, but there are many more women who could wear red, and they would look amazing. It’s easy to put in blonde highlights or make someone a brunette, but to create a great redhead you have to be a great colourist.” S

GettinG it RiGht

celebrity photos: Keystone press agency

One of the most common problems is getting an understanding of what shade of red the client really wants, says Colin Ford, director of education and events for L’Oréal Professionnel. “What is red to me is not necessarily what red is to you. The biggest thing is the communication,” he says. “What do you believe the client is saying and then is it possible?”

Like most services, a good consultation—taking into account skin tone and eye colour—is key to making your client happy. Use shade charts to help determine what the client is asking for, and then make sure it is possible.

Also, note that if hair is coloured, you’ll have to start with colour correction, making sure not to oversensitize the hair or the colour won’t hold, says Ford. For redheads, the healthier the hair, the better it will hold.

The best way to choose which shade to use is to select one that is not very far from the client’s natural colour darkness, says Joico haircolour spokesperson Beth Minardi. “Trying to create a very light red or a very dark red on hair which is not close to this darkness proves to be very difficult, and hair may not hold the tone,” she says.

Generally, natural redheads are fair skinned, and those fair-skinned clients can wear just about any colour, says Switzer. For darker skin tones, wine shades like burgundy are popular and flattering. Ford likes golden coppery reds for people with pale, creamy skin. For

niCole Kidm

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isla fisheR salon52.ca

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nails

Naked Nails

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Draw clients back into the salon with natural alternatives to chemical nail care. By Marlene Rego

he sight of nail techs wearing face masks in any salon can be unsettling. The fumes alone might be enough to make potential clients leave you in the dust. In fact, salon odour is one of the most notorious complaints from regular nail clients. Fumes, dust and chemical particles all pose a risk and can affect your bottom line—and your health.

Because of that, there’s been a recent push from consumers for natural alternatives. If you want your salon to remain on top, it’s key to update and establish a reputation for being ahead of the curve.

Tami Chu of Tami Beauté des Ongles in Montreal recently adopted Signature Nail Systems (SNS) natural gels. SNS is just one company offering organic

options that allow the nail to breathe.

“The interesting thing is that it’s exactly like gel but it’s odour free and there’s no need for a UV lamp,” says Chu. Since you don’t need to file the natural nail much, the integrity of the nail bed is preserved. Chu says clients appreciate that the flexible gel looks and feels like the real thing.

Chu sees the new addition as a bonus in her salon even though it’s a pricier service than traditional gel at $50. These natural products enhance the nails while encouraging their health and the success is evidence clients are willing to shell out for healthier options.

Sometimes nail lovers will research new and improved products on the market before salon professionals even

hear about them. That’s how Brenda Guss became involved with LBN's Elegant Glass Nails and the Canadian distributor of the brand. “I had a client say ‘Why don’t you use something new?’” says Guss, “So I started investigating.”

She stresses it’s really important to be current with your products. LBN, the Calgary-based distributor, offers silk wraps, linen and Natural Nail Finish Plus, which Guss calls “a step above acrylic.”

There’s no primer or liquids (and ensuing fumes). There’s no dust and you don’t need a drill.

“Some educators might get tunnel vision and not want to do anything different," says Guss, but she feels that schools should also be bringing in natural alternatives. S

Natural Selection

How to get natural nails to look their best

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SpaRitual Hand Salve This all-vegan treatment for chapped hands and cuticles nourishes on the spot. apply the serum first and follow with the salve to seal in moisture for super-soft hands.

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Dry, splitting nails get help from this protein-infused treatment. Formula 1 works to bond the nail layers together while Formula 2 helps peeling, brittle nails from splitting.

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ESTHETICS

Confessions of a Bikini Waxer One expert tells Salon Magazine her secrets for the perfect waxing experience and ways you can become your client’s trusted go-to source for hair removal. By Marlene Rego

Wax Must-haves Pros rely on products like LCN's After Wax Finishing Lotion, Clean + Easy's Brazilian hard wax and GiGi's Post Epilation Lotion for pain-free removal.

Pain Game Place your hand over the area you’ve just stripped to minimize pain. After all, Swinson says there are 7,000 nerve endings down there. The contact will prevent pain receptors

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from jumping up. “When you’re using a strip wax you should use a pre-epilating powder so that the wax sticks to hair and not the skin,” says Swinson. For sensitive gals, numbing sprays are also available. Or advise clients to take ibuprofen a few hours before their visit.

What’s Your Wax Type?

Swinson recommends using hard wax to lift curly hair, while soft wax is sufficient for fine strands. When applying, if the wax is spread too thin or cools by the time you put your stick down you’ll break the hair off at the root.

Your client won’t be happy with the resulting in-grown hairs. Choose a good quality wax from a reputable brand.

Brazil Bound “The hottest thing is Brazilian waxing. Everyone wants to learn how and a lot of schools don’t teach it. Yet students who don’t know how can’t get jobs.” Swinson warns not to attempt Brazilians, unless you feel comfortable that you’ve had the proper education, since you can end up seriously hurting someone. Seek out training at esthetics shows.

Water Works “Tell your clients to drink a lot of water before and after their wax,” advises Swinson. If they’re dehydrated, pores are tightened and they’ll be more sensitive to pain and will be at risk for in-growns. Now’s the time to recommend a good exfoliater and moisturizer, which will allow finer regrowth to break through the skin. S

MODEL PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

U

tter the words “bikini” and “wax” in any circle of friends and it won’t take long before someone starts sharing a horror story. Mention the word “Brazilian” and you’ve likely prompted an oversharing fest.

Bikini waxes are one of the most requested and feared services in the beauty biz. Think of it this way: when first-time clients entrust their most sensitive area to you, the experience will single-handedly determine whether they’ll return—and bring their friends, since most of us are unwilling to shop around for bikini waxes.

Debbie Swinson of Curtis, Ont., is familiar with this scenario. She has been a waxing educator for more than 15 years, and some of her clients drive hours from other cities just to get their appointments with her every few weeks. “Waxing is painful, but if it’s done properly it can be an almost pleasant experience,” she says.

She hears horror stories about women who’ve witnessed estheticians double-dip spatulas into a potential pool of waxy bacteria or ladies who report having raw skin for three weeks post-visit. Swinson travels often to teach proper waxing procedures for Beauty Systems Group and is a regular on the beauty show circuit. She shares her essential tips on healthy habits and creating a loyal following.

salon52.ca

Glass Gel a new trend in nail design

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Planet Salon

how going green can save you money and the earth one hair clipping, colour tube and foil at a time

In 2004, it installed three solar panels— each measuring three by eight feet—on the salon’s roof. The sun energy it captures is used as a backup for the salon’s highefficiency gas system, which heats the hotwater tanks.

“On a sunny day the gas doesn’t come on at all,” says Brian Phillips, owner of worldSALON. “It offsets our gas usage, and we save about 60 per cent [in power costs].”

In fact, in its first year the salon saved more than $600 on its gas bill, and it

Power Play Toronto’s worldSALON installed rooftop solar panels offsetting its electricity use by about 60 per cent.

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offsets more than 2,000 tons of CO2 emissions annually.

For many salon owners that lease their space, this might seem out of reach. But with popular government incentives such as Ontario’s Feed-In-Tariff (FIT) program there are a number of companies looking for opportunities to install solar panels on commercial rooftops.

When Phillips invested in his solar installation he was able to take advantage of a federal government program called REDI—Renewable Energy Deployment Initiative—that helped businesses implement sustainable solutions. The program paid for roughly one third of Phillips' costs.

To reduce more of the salon’s energy consumption, worldSALON also uses a combination of compact fluorescent lights (CFL) and LED bulbs.

“The CFLs can save about 30 per cent on energy compared to traditional lighting.

And the LEDs save about 80 per cent,” says Phillips. “There are some interesting LEDs coming onto the marketplace.”

Under the Eco-Lite brand there is a new LED eco-friendly lighting system named after and approved by renowned Joico colourist, Beth Minardi. The Minardi Perfect Colour Lighting systems come in recessed or track fixtures, delivering exceptional brightness for viewing true colours and analyzing clients’ hair.

Eco-friendly bulbs are more expensive— costing about $25 each—but they last 10 times longer than traditional fluorescent bulbs.

Phillips’ salon also uses Bullfrog

t

N

atural energy solutions that offset electricity costs and other sustainability options are now more readily available, and for salons looking to be green, it’s time to cash in.

The focus on reducing emissions and eco-footprints has never been greater for consumers, as well as businesses big and small.

For the Canadian salon industry, the poster child of green is definitely worldSALON located in Toronto.

salon52.ca

photo courtesy of Brian phillips

By noelle stapinsky

engns e r g si de

Sustainability Green Circle hunts down alternatives for salons to offset the waste stream and build an eco-budget to become more green.

Municipal recycling programs aren’t usually too friendly to businesses. Some have to pay extra, some don’t have a curb-side pick up at all, and for hair salons, what do they do with the hair, used foils and empty colour tubes? Sadly, most ends up in the already limited landfills.

Green Circle Salons, a provider of sustainable options for salons, has been servicing the Greater Toronto Area since 2009.

Founded by Shane Price, his company’s core mission is to divert hair, plastics, paper, foils and colour tubes out of the waste stream and into recycling or reusing programs.

Members of Green Circle’s program participate in the Environmental Contribution Initiative (ECI), which charges one dollar more per client for services. Part of that dollar goes to the salon to build a green budget and the other portion goes to Green

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A healthier planet

agriculture and horticulture.

One study showed that hair could be used on top of potted plants as a natural herbicide. By placing a hair matt on top of a plant it maintains the moisture level and prevents weeds from growing.

There is also a university in North Carolina that is taking keratin out of human hair and using it to repair damaged nerve cells.

As another alternative, hair can be stuffed into nylon and made into hair boons, which prove to be an effective way to help control oil spills.

“Last year when there was an oil spill in the Gulf, we shipped hair to the U.S., to a company called Matter of Trust in California,” says Price. “Redken sponsored the program and covered the shipping costs. We offset the carbon footprint by buying carbon credits through a David Suzuki organization in Montreal called Planet Air.” Green Circle members separate the hair, foils, colour tubes and any other

Keep hair, foils, colour tubes, plastics and papers out of landfill

t

Green Circle of Life

Circle for its services.

On the Green Circle website, salons are listed in a directory for eco-savvy clients to easily find. And there is a wealth of information and sources posted for salons to enhance sustainability. Whether it’s lighting usage, cleaning products, renovating or painting, Green Circle sources companies and products and puts them on its online menu of opportunities.

For sustainable lighting, there are now eco-friendly, salon-designed lighting systems such as Minardi's or Intergreen, which have colour correction incorporated in the design.

Many people are familiar with recycling basics—paper, plastic, aluminum— but imagine if you could recycle the enormous amount of hair trimmed off clients each day.

Price and his team are in constant pursuit of sustainable solutions. About two years ago it reached out to the University of Guelph for ways hair can be used in

A smarter, greener and healthier experience!

photo courtesy of green circle

Power, a green energy company that feeds wind and solar energy into the grid.

Companies that use this service pay a few cents more per kilowatt-hour, but that goes toward the development of new renewable power generation.

As technology advances, options for alternative energy and ways to reduce our carbon footprint are becoming more affordable. Businesses that take advantage of these opportunities now will only benefit from it in the future.

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recyclables at the salon. It is picked up by Green Circle and delivered to Turtle Island Recycling.

“We’ve also launched a pilot program with a few salons to collect leftover colour and chemical waste and deliver it to a facility in Hamilton that deals with toxic chemicals,” says Price.

Leftover colour is usually rinsed down the sink. Depending on how it’s treated through the water treatment facilities, it’s ending up in lakes and impacting aquatic life.

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“Last year when there was an oil spill in the Gulf, we shipped hair to the U.S., to a company called Matter of Trust in California,” says Price.

“Sometimes people don’t want to hear about the environment,” says Price. “Did you know in the U.S. alone, there’s enough aluminum thrown into landfill every three months that you could rebuild the entire

commercial U.S. air fleet? It’s scary.”

In order to have a positive impact on the environment and reach sustainability goals, salons also need to reach out to the entire industry. From where and how products and tools are manufacturered, to where they're used and how they're disposed of, it's all equally critical to environmental impact.

With increased consumer demand for green alternatives, it's essential all levels of industry get on board to deliver. S

photos courtesy of salon escape

Robert Barbosa, owner of Salon Escape in Toronto, is a member of the Green Circle program and part of its new pilot project—collecting leftover colour and disposing of the chemical waste properly.

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During this year’s International Salon & Spa Expo (ISSE) Midwest, beauty industry professionals came together for one night for the 5th Annual Legends & Icons Charity Gala. This year, the gala celebrated famed hair stylist, salon owner and educator, Yosh Toya (Legend), and internationally acclaimed colourist, educator, product consultant and Joico colour spokesperson, Beth Minardi (Icon), for their contributions to the beauty industry and for helping stylists take their careers to new heights. The event also raised awareness and funding for the National Cosmetology Association’s (NCA) CARES Fund—an umbrella fundraising effort that supports Look Good... Feel Better, CUT IT OUT/Salons Against Domestic Abuse and the NCA Disaster Relief Fund.

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Clairol Professional artistic director Danny Lapointe has been promoted to Education Manager/ Creative Director for P&G Salon Professional Wella Canada. In his new role, he will be overseeing the development of education programs throughout Canada, supported by educators in the field. As a stylist, Lapointe has participated in some of the world’s most prestigious hairstyling events, as well as educating stylists in Europe and North America, and producing creative work for magazines and runways in the U.S. and Canada.

model photo: ColleCtion: Contessa 22, master Colourist, finalist, Colour: susan haywood, hair: thomas Cameron, makeup: Christine Genya, photo: douG mCmillan

Minardi and Toya Honoured at Gala

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THE HAIR BARON BLAZES A NEW TRAIL After 51 years behind the chair, John Steinberg has announced that he is officially stepping away from the chair to pursue his career as a full-time motivational speaker and mentor.

Regarded as an iconic Canadian hairstylist, Steinberg has owned two renowned Toronto salons—the Rainbow Room, opened in 1977, and John Steinberg & Associates, opened in 1991 and located on King Street West.

Throughout his career behind the chair, Steinberg contributed to Toronto Fashion Week, judged hair competitions, educated hairstylists across the country and even found time to raise $186,000 for the Princess Margaret Hospital Breast Cancer Research.

If you haven’t caught Steinberg at one of his presentations at the Allied Beauty Association (ABA) shows across the country this year, he also offers in-salon mentoring seminars—entitled ARE YOU CURIOUS?—for hairstylists at all levels. For more information, check out www.johnsteinbergthelectures.com or email info@johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

VSPP - Partnering for Success VSPP is a unique salon management program that is customizable for today’s salon that delivers results!

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Guay Beaute, an exclusive distributor of John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) in Quebec, has been awarded with the distinction of having the top overall sales increase for JPMS internationally, during a year of tremendous growth in many markets. JPMS co-founder and CEO, John Paul Dejoria, and president, Luke Jacobellis, honoured Guay Beaute owners, Pierre and Jean Hetu, during the company’s global distributors meeting in Hawaii earlier this year.

EFFECtiVE CoNSULtatioNS

salon52.ca

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87

SCOOP

Colomer announCes new Gm Colomer Canada recently introduced Jim Amos as its new General Manager. The company’s brands include Revlon Professional, Style Masters, American Crew, Abba, Voila, Intercosmo, Orofluido and more.

Amos has held a variety of leadership roles since 1996, and was most recently the national sales manager for P&G Salon Professional.

With this new appointment, Colomer plans to strengthen its position and grow in the Canadian market. unique weekend of education Famed stylist and educator Damien Carney is coming to Vancouver, May 28 to 30, for an in-depth session on cutting, styling and photoshoots. Prices are á la carte for the weekend or for single sessions. Carney and hairstylist Chad Taylor will also open their photoshoot set to a limited number of observers on Monday. For more, email blacklinestrategies@live.com.

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CORReCTIOn On p. 66 of the April issue, information for the featured collection was misattributed. Correct credits are: Creative Direction: edwin Johnston, Hair: Cutting Room Creative Art Team, Photos: Suzanne Teresa, Makeup & Styling: Cheryl Gushue.

The stylists were finalists in the Contessa Salon Team of the Year Award for 2011. The full collection can be found at salon52.ca.

Alcorn Does BT Live Eye

Tony Masciangelo, an award-winning editorial stylist and owner of The Alcorn Salon in Toronto, recently appeared live on Toronto’s Breakfast Television’s “Live eye” segment, along with his staff, for makeovers on three women poised to re-enter the workforce through the Dress For Success program.

Hosted by BT’s Jennifer Valentyne, the Alcorn stylists gave each of the women clean professional looks, while Masciangelo accentuated their features with soft, subtle makeup.

The Dress For Success program supports disadvantaged women by providing professional attire, a network of support and career development tools. The program supports more than 500,000 women worldwide.

Piidea Canada hosted Cosbec at a Mexican getaway recently in sunny Riviera Maya. A group of 25 took in the rays while they discussed upcoming plans, new product launches and strategies for bain de terre and Senscience in 2011.

salon52.ca

EVENTS

ABA Toronto Who: Tabatha Coffey, Nick Arrojo, Chris Baran, Nicholas French, and Ammon Carver, to name a few.

What: Allied Beauty Association Toronto Show When & Where: March 27 - 28 at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre Soundbite: “What’s the number one reason clients leave salons? They get bored. It’s not bad hair, it’s because we don’t take the time to have a consultation with them.”

– Tabatha Coffey salon52.ca

may+june 11< salon

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EVENTS

Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beauty Show Who: Vidal Sassoon, Tabatha Coffey, Jan Arnold, Anthony Mascolo, Nick Arrojo, Sam Villa, Irvine and Louise Rusk, Takashi Kitamura, Nicholas French, Vivienne Mackinder and 62,857 more beauty professionals.

What: One of the biggest professional beauty shows in the U.S. (now in its 86th year).

When & Where: March 12 - 14, 2011 at Chicago's McCormick Place Highlights: A special appearance by Vidal Sassoon who premiered his new biopic Vidal Sassoon: The Movie to a sold-out crowd.

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salon52.ca

ABA Vancouver Who: Tabatha Coffey, Claude Comeau, Lance Blanchette, Anthony Crossfield, Robert Kory, Van Hong, Charlene Santaga and David Murray What: Allied Beauty Association Vancouver Show When & Where: April 17-18 at the Vancouver Convention Centre Highlights: Loads of education combined with fantastic stage presentations had stylists turning out in droves at the show’s new location. Joico platform artist Shannon Simmonds made a splash, winning CityLine’s Ordinary to Extraordinary Makeover contest.

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salon52.ca

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EVENTS

Joico Hosts Colour Education Day Who: George Papanikolas, celebrity hairstylist and Joico colour guru from Los Angeles.

What: Known for creating ombré, surfer girl styles on stars like Nicole Richie, Jessica Biel and Mila Kunis. Papanikolas demonstrated his signature ombre colour technique in two different ways at the one-day education event.

When & Where: March 21, 2011 in Toronto Soundbite: “Dial it up for younger clients for an edgier, higher contrast look or dial it down for a more subtle style…You can upcharge a bit from a typical highlight service, especially since regrowth is not as noticeable and clients can end up only doing the service three times a year, saving them money.”

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salon52.ca

Salon Magazine 04/11 Ad Size 3.75”W xWeek 10” H Toronto Fashion Who: Designers including Pink Tartan, Joe Fresh, Denis Gagnon, David Dixon and Line Knitwear. Others, including Lucian Matis and Greta Constantine, displayed off-site at the Design Exchange.

What: Thirty-two runway shows displaying hair, fashion and make-up trends for fall/winter 2011.

When & Where: March 28 – April 2 at Exhibition Place, Toronto Highlights: Hair ranged from the simple to the elaborate. A classic look—long hair with soft movement—adorned the Joe Fresh models.

Sky-high top knots were spotted at Pink Tartan, while at David Dixon and Korhani, sculpted updos reigned. Also big? Texture, backcombing and braids, all of which made an appearance at Matis’ show.

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CND..Retention+ pg 23......................................877-CND-NAIL....................... www.cnd.com Contessa.23 pg 36-37........................................800-720-6665......................... www.salon52.ca Dikson..Keratin.Action pg 69.............................800-334-8240......................... www.dikson.ca

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Essie..Summer.2011.Collection pg 65...............877-309-8619......................... www.facebook.com/essiecanada

FHI.Heat pg 25.................................................................................................. www.fhiheat.com George.Barber.&.Beauty.Supplies pg 92..........866-594-4692......................... www.georgebarberandbeauty.com GiGi..All.Purpose.Honee pg 99..........................800-621-9585......................... www.gigispa.com Goldwell..StyleSign pg 41..................................800-387-3873......................... www.goldwell-northamerica.com Hot.Tools..Titanium pg 75..................................800-487-8432......................... www.hottools.com

______________________________________________ CARDHOLDER’S NAME

IBD.Beauty..Gelac pg 79....................................800-621-9585......................... www.ibdbeauty.com

❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________

International.Beauty.Services pg 93.................800-642-3818

Surname _______________________________________ Title ___________________________________________

Joico..K-Pak.Quadraion.Pro-Dryer pg 100........800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com Joico.&.ISO..Destination.Education.‘12 pg 17....800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com

Business Name____________________________________

Kevin.Murphy..The.Climate.Project pg 42........................................................ www.kevin.murphy.com.au

Address ___________________________Suite _________

Kingdom.Beauty.Supplies..Trioxinator pg 86....800-738-8666......................... www.kingdombeauty.com

City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________ Phone _________________________________________ Email__________________________________________ Website ________________________________________

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________

Lanvain.Design pg 91.........................................800-361-2586......................... www.lanvain.com LCN.Canada..Glass.Gel pg 77............................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca LCN.Canada..Pedique.Plus pg 81......................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca Matrix..total.results pg 8-11..............................888-935-1885......................... www.matrix.com MC.College pg 95.............................................................................................. www.mccollege.ca Mixed.Chicks.Haircare pg 90.............................877-888-0480......................... www.mixedchicks.net Orofluido pg 51...................................................800-387-7980......................... www.orofluido.com Pivot.Point pg 92................................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpointcanada.ca Redken..Art.of.Consultation pg 27.....................866-973-3536......................... www.redken.ca Redken..New.Extreme pg 2-3............................866-973-3536......................... www.redken.ca

# of Employees ____

Revlon.Professional..Style.Masters pg 39.........800-387-7980

What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________

Salon.International.2011 pg 84-85................................................................... www.salonexhibitions.co.uk

What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se204

FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0 or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

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Schwarzkopf..OSiS.Range pg 20-21..................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf.Essensity pg 14-15.......................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf.Igora.50th.Anniversary pg 4-5.....800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca SPARitual..Evolve.Collection pg 28....................877-SPA-RITUAL................... www.sparitual.com Star.Nail.Canada pg 83......................................877-852-STAR........................ www.starnailcanada.com TIGI..Catwalk pg 47............................................800-259-8596......................... www.catwalkbytigi.com Unite.Haircare pg 12-13....................................888-95-UNITE........................ www.unitehair.com Venus.Beauty.Supplies..My.Salons pg 87..........800-465-7965......................... www.venusbeauty.com Venus.Beauty.Supplies..VSPP pg 87..................800-465-7965......................... www.venusbeauty.com Wella.Professional pg 8-9..................................800-267-1969......................... www.wellausa.com Wella.Professional..TrendVision pg 55..............800-41-WELLA....................... www.wellausa.com salon52.ca

EVENTS

DeMelo’s Collective Creative Who: Brennen DeMelo, Matthew Collins, Dee Dagher, Justin Rousseau, Shawna A. Mazing, Robyn Hancock, Anna Barseghian, Lisen Overdyk, Cherie Gerwien, Luigi Ditacchio, Casey Shannon and Jacquie Wilson.

What: Grand opening and relaunch of Brennen DeMelo Studio When: April 7, 2011 in Toronto Highlights: With white walls and exposed wooden beams, the new space has an industrial-meets-chic flow. DeMelo and team did most of the renovations in the new salon, with walls decorated with art by stylist Justin Rousseau and editorial collections by DeMelo.

Men’s Grooming Lounge Opens in Burlington Who: Sergio Franco What: New York New York Men’s Grooming Lounge recently opened, designed with a Frank Sinatra-esque theme.

Where: Burlington, Ont. Highlights: The lounge caters to men’s cuts, close shaves and body services like facials and nail care. The layout and beauty equipment were all supplied by Takara Belmont. salon52.ca

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EVENTS

MAY+JUNE 2011 EDMONTON ABA

May 1–2, 2011 Northlands Park Edmonton, AB Info: abacanada.com STYLEMASTERS AMSTERDAM

May 9, 2011 Amsterdam, Holland Info: stylemasters.com PREMIERE ORLANDO

June 5–6, 2011 Orlando Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL Info: premiereshows.com ALLIED BEAUTY ASSOCIATION AGM

June 14–17, 2011 Halifax, NS Info: abacanada.com INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW LAS VEGAS

June 18–20, 2011 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Info: ibslasvegas.com

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com

COME AND SEE US AT THE ABA AND SPA SHOWS!

Tooth Crystal Starter Kits

KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767

Tooth Crystal Home Kits

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture & the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

Body Gems

MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596

Tooth Whitening Hair Gems

Tooth Crystal Starter Kits as low as $230

Crystal T-Shirt Transfers Pretty Pedi Socks

Order Online Now: www.toothfairy.ch THE ORIGINAL TOOTH CRYSTAL COMPANY

Tooth Fairy Customer Hotline: 1-888-346-6601 Email: info@toothfairy.ch

LaRGeST SeLeCTiOn OF BEAUTY & BARBER CHAIRS www.spider-barberchairs.com • Large Selection of Barber, Styling, Dryer & Shampoo Chairs • Original Designs Canadian Made

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL & ESTHETICS CLASSES

905-660-3446 • 1-877-SPIDERS • www.spider-barberchairs.com 50 Ritin Lane #6, Concord, ON L4K 4C9 BarBer chairs now availaBle with spider electrical Base!

AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997 S

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Big Business New approaches to retail , building strong client relati onships and delving further into digital

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 20 Issue 07 salon52.ca

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may+june 11 < salon

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Cutting it Fine to Shine

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salon > may+june 11

Ah yes, the consultation. What an often unappreciated art form it is. But this is your opportunity to establish a relationship with your prospective client. And because its importance is frequently underestimated, I’d like to suggest some consultation pointers: • • • •

Make an effort to understand her or him.

Do not use technical jargon to try to make yourself look good.

Use eye contact.

Always clarify any communication to make sure you have a mutual understanding.

• Study the client’s hairline and growth patterns.

• Communicate clearly (good communication skills make good hairstylists).

My sister must have decided I was becoming a good hairstylist because I’m happy to say that a mere six months after my inaugural kitchen cuts, she pleaded with me to cut her hair. I graciously acquiesced. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He has been in the beauty business for 51 years. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

STEINBERG PHOTO: BARRIE WENTZELL

i

don’t know about you, but for me, there’s nothing like the feel of a pair of scissors in my hand. Back in my apprenticeship days, I carefully and eagerly watched the stylists cut their clients’ hair. And I exercised my patience while I worked for six months doing roller sets and pin curls, anticipating the day when I would graduate to using scissors.

But when that great day came, I didn't know anyone brave or kind enough to let me cut their hair. Certainly not my sister, who, at five years older than me, was very happy with her well-known London hairstylist.

Fortunately, my mother and grandmother, always my top supporters, volunteered their heads for my benefit. Great. Except that both of them, my grandmother in particular, had the thinnest hair you have ever seen.

So my first ever exciting—and nerve-wracking—haircuts took place in my mother’s kitchen. I learnt that cutting thin, fine hair demands a great deal of accuracy, as well as attention to growth patterns and hairlines. But both of my “clients” said how pleased they were with the results. Which must have been true, because they became my first regular clients.

I had to wait another three months before I was allowed to trim a real client’s hair in the salon. But my experience at home in the kitchen served me well. I’d learned to pay attention to important details. Since this is not the case with every stylist, if you can master the art of cutting fine hair, you will have a very loyal client, probably for life.

I find it helps to bear in mind that all hair can be treated as a malleable fabric. Then we can treat fine hair like silk or cashmere. And nowadays there are some excellent products for fine hair. In addition to using them for styling, make sure to recommend them to the client, preferably during the consultation.

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