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Š 2012 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All Rights Reserved.
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revlon professional
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fEaturEs
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choosing a nEw linE
54
show mE thE numbErs!
kEEp your cliEnts in thE salon
58
collEctions
Three owners explain how they selected the right retail for their salon and why
How you can make your business more retail friendly
52
18
rEtail thErapy Four tips for creating a winning display
salon > may+june 12
How do you measure a successful stylist? Here, four share their stats
The latest styles from American Crew, Charlie Price and Revlon Professional, Simone Lee, CND, Michelle Thompson, Dat Tran and Rossa Jurenas
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B usinisesuse s Retail Revamp • Hot Colours • Successful Stylists
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The Latest Collection from CND
REGULARS
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PROFILE Richard Ashforth
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE
80 82
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SALONMAGAZINE.CA
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HAIRLINES
This month on salonmagazine.ca
84
Bold and Bright p. 29; Where Sport Meets Style p. 30; Simplified Hair Care p. 30; Bare All for the Beach p. 30; Southwest Sweethearts p. 32; Pretty Patterns p. 32; Enter! p. 32; Smarty Pants p. 34; Smooth and Shiny p. 34; Let’s Get Digital p. 36; Lush Locks p. 36; Brand New on the Scene... p. 38; Shear Performance p.38; Get Creative p. 38; Toolbox: Take-Home Tools p. 40; Business: A Salon By Any Other Name p. 42; Shelf Life p. 44
72
CONTESSA GALLERY
74
PROFILE
78
COLOUR
NAILS Smarten your strategies when it comes to take-home products
ESTHETICS Pregnancy: What to expect when your client is expecting
INTERIORS Timeless masculinity and modern cool meet at a vintage men's salon
86
SCOOP
89
EVENTS
98
LAST LOOK
Alann Sluser takes on wearable fashion in her Makeover Colourist collection for the 23rd annual Contessas
Star stylist Richard Ashforth shares highlights from his long career in hair
Sport the season’s new “it” hair colours
80 NAILS
Summer Brights Roundup
20
salon > may+june 12
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minnie mouse I’M ALL EARS
Tell me how much you love this magenta shimmer.
NOTHIN’ MOUSIE ‘BOUT IT
Don’t squeak it—SHOUT IT! This confetti light pink is tops!
IF YOU MOUST YOU MOUST
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salon > may+june 12
Melissa Hill Editor-in-Chief P.S. Are you proud of your business? Consider entering the Contessa Business Excellence category this year! Entries are kept confidential and judged independently by the Schulich School of Business. It’s a great opportunity to be recognized for your great team and your business acumen.
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM
I
can count on one hand the number of times I’ve bought a product in the salon after a stylist has recommended it for me. That doesn’t mean I haven’t bought products in the salon. I did and still do. It’s just a rare occasion when a stylist has taken the time to talk to me about products, even before I was working in the industry. I think most of them don’t want to push something on me that I don’t want. I appreciate that, but, at the same time, you are my guru. I want to know what you think, what would work for me, what I should use and what I shouldn’t. And I know I am not the only one. I’d hazard a guess that a good portion of your client base is like me. Even if they don’t buy every time, they want your suggestions and advice. I know this because nearly every time I go to a party or meet new friends and tell them what I do, they spill their hair concerns and question me on what products they should use. If you’re not taking advantage of this, you are missing out, big time. I know that selling can be tricky and sometimes uncomfortable. So, to help you out this month, we went looking for new ways to approach retail. This includes how to build a winning display that will attract clients and help do the selling for you. Check out “Keep Your Clients in the Salon” on p. 50 and “Retail Therapy” on p. 52. Always remember that in your clients’ eyes, you are the trusted expert.
Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/salon52 or email me at Melissa@salonmagazine.ca.
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 21 issue 7
s a lo n m a ga z i n e . ca
Editor-in-chiEf
Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@salonmagazine.ca group Art dirEctor
Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@salonmagazine.ca Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)
Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt Editor
Valerie Lam > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | valerie@salonmagazine.ca onlinE Editor
Jillian Wood > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | jillian@salonmagazine.ca dEsignEr
Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt to thE chAirmAn
Pam Fulford intErn
Jennifer Rich
By popular Demand
copy Editor
Jennifer D. Foster contributors
Alexandra Innes, Chris Tsintziras, Helen Vong publishEr/prEsidEnt
Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@salonmagazine.ca
i
AssociAtE publishEr/sAlEs dirEctor
Laura Dunphy Publisher
24
salon > may+june 12
Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@salonmagazine.ca sEnior Accounts mAnAgEr
Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@salonmagazine.ca Account ExEcutivE
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Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@salonmagazine.ca vicE-prEsidEnt & WEst coAst Editor
Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@salonmagazine.ca
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t’s time to have your say in the products you love! Over the years, we’ve often been asked about launching a reader’s choice awards, and now we’re taking on the challenge. And in our ongoing quest to engage the professionals in the industry, we want you to decide who should take home top honours in each category by voting on your favourite products. It’s a daunting task to do the groundwork and establish the rules for a product-based awards. The list of brands and categories goes on forever. Our first-year goal is to keep the process simple and streamlined for easy voting, which opens on June 22 at readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca. We know that for beauty pros, picking a favourite product is not an easy decision. There’s the personal decision—what you like on your own hair—and then the professional decision about what works best for your client. I know stylists often ask, “Why are there so many products?” Think of the vast retail world like this: if you were chosen to go on a photo shoot and could only take one bag, what products would you take? What’s the climate like? Humid or dry? How many models? What are the styles? Think of the array of products you’d want to take. Now think about the number of different heads walking through your salon door and what their needs are. Now factor in different price points, too—value price, mid-price and high-end. The availability of so many options inspired one of our feature stories this month, “Choosing a New Line,” p. 48. We talked to three owners about the lines they picked recently and why. Salon products play an integral role in the salon—for add-on services, to support the looks you’ve created and for profit. We can’t wait to announce all of your favourites later this summer!
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@ “LIKE” IT OR NOT
Alyson Kelle Yes hahaha
We asked our readers what they thought when Joan Rivers stepped out with pink highlights. ARE YOU EVER TOO OLD FOR WILD COLOUR? You sounded off:
Michelle Muxlow- Facchin No...depends on attitude! Kristen Lake I think it mostly depends on the person it’s on and the placement. Sometimes doing something “young” looking can make someone look older, just like plastic surgery, which Joan is all too familiar with.
“Like” us on Facebook to keep up to date with the latest trends and have your say!
HAIR, ART DIRECTION & CONCEPT: JASON KEARNS, PHOTO: RICHARD DUBOIS
Beauty is serious business— that’s why this month, Salon Magazine will be featuring a ton of business tips and advice online to help you increase your bottom line. From social media to how to target certain clientele, we’ve got you covered at SalonMagazine.ca!
ONLINE EXCLUSIVE COLLECTIONS See collections from Jason Kearns, La Biosthetique, Marc Antoni and more at SalonMagazine.ca in May and June. Last month, we asked: How are you trying to go green in your salon?
75
% OF VOTES
ARE SWITCHING TO ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTS
WHAT’S TRENDING WE HELPED GET CITYLINE’S ORDINARY TO EXTRAORDINARY CONTEST TRENDING DURING TORONTO ABA 2012. See all of our ABA coverage online now.
Follow us on Twitter to hear about breaking beauty news and contests first! 26
salon > may+june 12
lanceblanchette Help us get the Toronto @ ABACanada makeover trending RT your support #citylineabastylist @ CityLineCa @Salon_Magazine @Joico #hair #fashion Salon_Magazine Can’t wait for the @ CityLineCa makeover competition to start! Good luck stylists! #citylineabastylist
WE’RE ON PINTEREST! Want to see some incredible hair “pinspiration?” Looking something to spark creativity for your Contessa collection? Follow us on Pinterest and view our favourite photos of all things beauty. HAPPY PINNING pinterest.com/salonmagazine
WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY! salonmagazine.ca
CELEBRITY PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY
Using fewer resources (like power and water) 12.5% Nothing yet 12.5%
SHOW-STOPPING BLONDE DOESN’T START ON THE SHELF YOU CAN’T GET SUPERNATURAL FROM A SUPERMARKET.
For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call Client Services: 1-877-670-6767
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FIND A TRUE COLOR PROFESSIONAL NEAR YOU AT goldwell-northamerica.com or facebook.com/Goldwell
PHOTOS COURTESY OF GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
HAIRLINES NEWS
salonmagazine.ca
Bright and Bold Increase the intensity with two new vibrant colour line options
Goldwell Topchic Max Reds The new formulas launching this month offer more durability and intensity for reds that last. Tests show 26 per cent more brilliance than previous Topchic Max Reds. Get maximum diversity and creativity, too, with eight vibrant colours, ranging from Striking Red Copper to Very Violet. Schwarzkopf Professional Essensity Fashion & Cover Brand new, within this range, are seven new shades inspired by the latest catwalk trends. With 100 per cent coverage and ultimate vibrancy in one tube, the new colours are a copper, a red, two golds and three auburns.
may+june 12 < salon
29
hairlines news
Where Sport Meets Style
Be prepped for this summer’s Olympic Games
C
reate an iconic Olympic rings-inspired mani and pedi to help clients celebrate the games. What do you need? Five rich colours that match the shades of the five rings—one for each finger. Try CND’s Anchor Blue, Bicycle Yellow, Blackjack, Green Scene and Relay Red!
Simplified Hair Care
30
salon > may+june 12
Bare All for the Beach
For summer-friendly waxing services, try one of Clean + Easy’s new formulas infused with Green Tea, White Tea or Black Tea. Each is specifically tailored to individual hair needs and skin types, and is appropriate for even the most sensitive skin.
photos: ChRIs tsINtZIRAs
T
he new black 15in1 Miracle Hair shampoo, conditioner and treatment are formulated to solve 15 key problems clients have with their hair. The shampoo and conditioner are designed to be used only twice a week, while the treatment can be used daily with your client’s usual shampoo and conditioner. During clinical testing, 90 per cent of participants saw a positive change in their hair after one week. It’s universal and can be used for any hair type.
salonmagazine.ca
The Alluring One
hairlines news
Southwest Sweethearts Get inspired with tips from the spring runway
W
ith winter well behind us, Taylor McFadden, of Eufora’s flagship Lotus Salon in New York City, looked to the carefree ease of warmer temps for Project Runway winner, Gretchen Jones’ spring 2012 show. In line with the clothing designer’s laidback southwestern vibe, McFadden stepped away from structured curls and blowouts to embrace a more natural texture. “To create the look seen throughout the show, I used a variety of techniques, such as intricate braiding to achieve the right amount of cool undone-ness,” says McFadden. Eufora products of choice include Beautifying Serum to prep damp hair and support natural texture, Touch Up Texturizing Dry Shampoo to oomph up the tousled look and Illuminate Shine Mist to finish braids.
Go decorative with your clients’ digits If you’re not doing nails, you’re missing out on what’s become a musthave for the put-together woman! Here are two new seasonal how-tos from OPI, using recently launched GelColor, a full-gel lacquer service. The formula is gentle on nails and is applied the same way as traditional nail lacquer, cured under a LED UV light for 30 seconds after each coat.
Tribal • Polish on three coats of Suzi Says Feng Shui. • Remove residue with Expert Touch Nail Wipe and N.A.S. 99. • Create large “vines” with Black Onyx; fill in spaces using Russian Navy. • Polish on Top Coat. • Remove residue with N.A.S. 99.
Enter!
After 25 years in the industry, Framar International, the producer of Foil It highlighting foils, is celebrating with a brand-new look. One lucky stylist will join in the celebrations, winning free foil for a year! Visit the Framar Foil It Facebook page to enter and for more details. Entry closes June 30, 2012. The new foils offer colourists 30 foils of different thickness and colours, and all foils come in self-dispensing boxes, including precut sheets for grab-and-go convenience.
Paisley • Polish on three coats of Strawberry Margarita. • Remove residue with Expert Touch Nail Wipe and N.A.S. 99. • Create paisley pattern on nail base using Alpine Snow. • Polish Top Coat on nail tip, to create a “French” smile line, and then, over the paisley pattern. • Remove residue with N.A.S. 99.
32
salon > may+june 12
salonmagazine.ca
photos courtesy of opi, framar international, top photo: chris cragoe
Pretty Patterns
SOON-TO-BE
BRIDES
ASK FOR GREAT LENGTHS BY NAME
There are extensions and then there is Great Lengths. Rest assured that on her perfect day make sure your salon can provide her with her perfect hair. If you are not part of the Great Lengths Hair Extensions Artistic Network, give yourself the gift of education that keeps on giving. Call or email and discover what Great Lengths can do to enhance your career as a professional salon stylist.
www.greatlengthscanada.com
EDUCATIONAL SEMINAR DATES: DATES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE.
Vancouver - May 13, 14 | Québec - May 13, 14 Toronto - May 27, 28 | Montréal - May 27, 28 Ottawa - May 27, 28 | Toronto - June 10,11 Fredericton - June 10,11 | Calgary - June 24,25
Join us: facebook.com/greatlengthscanada Follow us: twitter.com/glcanada
hairlines news
Smarty Pants
katy perry
Two great ways to use your trimmer In classic college traditions of argyle and plaid, Wahl’s new Sterling Bullet trimmer is kitschy cool with its old-school patterns. But it’s more than just good looking. Kat Marcus, co-owner and master stylist at The Saloon Salon in Toronto, shares her tips for the best ways to use the tool.
drake
• Get a perfect Betty Paige fringe. “Smooth the fringe into one section, take the trimmer and shape the fringe into a half-circle by pressing into the hair. This can be achieved with shears by taking hair into small sections, but this can be time-
consuming and produce an uneven cut. With the trimmer, the fringe can be made in clean, sharp edges.” • Taper the perimeter of a cut. “Tapering is better achieved with a trimmer, because a large clipper may feel cumbersome for this task. After a clipper cut, there can be a bit of a stacked edge around the perimeter. With a fine-tooth barbering comb just inserted into the perimeter, graze the Bullet Trimmer and comb around the ears and down the nape sections to get a tighter fade in the haircut.”
photos, bottom courtesy of hair treats, photo, top: chris tsintziras, celebrity photos: crestock
Smooth and Shiny
Three new tools from Hair Treats promise to make styling easier. The Level-Headed (1) and Hand Grip (2) one-inch professional irons offer black titanium plates, universal voltage and a temperature range up to 446° F. The IONthority hair-dryer (3) uses a powerful ionizer to provide a continuous stream of more than three million negative ions for boosted shine and quicker drying.
3
1
2
34
salon > may+june 12
salonmagazine.ca
ALL ACTION. NO SHINE.
I N T R O D U C I N G U LT R A M A T T E F R O M A M E R I C A N C R E W Bold sweeps with brushed silhouettes. Classic looks with a daring edge. And confident, geometric shapes with an inconspicuous finish. Ultramatte from American Crew lets you lose the shine and keep the spotlight. Because sometimes, the best way to shine is not to. For more information on Ultramatte and the latest trends, contact your sales representative. americancrew.com/ mattematic
Scan this QR code to get a sneak peak at Mattematic, our 2012 Collection.
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HAIRLINES NEWS
Let’s Get Digital Cold perms of yesteryear get a zap
A JENNIFER LAWRENCE
ELIZABETH OLSEN
fter creating a buzz at Salon International in 2011, could digital perms be the wave of the future? Christian B. Toth, of Hair Expert Distribution in the U.K., has specialized in chemical hair treatments for more than 11 years and was the first British hairstylist to be trained at the Yuko Academy with Yuko Yamashita. Toth is the man responsible for bringing the perms to the U.K. from Japan. “Inevitably, trends turn, and recently there has been more focus on styles with movement,” says Toth. “Plus, celebrities love to wear their hair in loose, sexy waves, and that is a big influence on the customer.” Old vs. New “The old perm
winds the hair into rods and then applies chemicals, whereas the digital process requires the chemicals to be applied first and then once the hair is processed it is rolled up. This means hairstylists have more control over the chemical process,” says Toth. “Electric rollers are individually connected to a special unit that uses infra-red heat to help ‘set’ the curl memory.” Better Hair Health “The new digital perm has a pretreatment step—this helps to ensure the hair remains in great condition, and it means that you can repeatedly have the perm without damaging the hair,” he says. Hair Expert Distribution is offering a number of solutions for different hair types, too,
through pre-treatments, perm solutions and prewinding treatments. More Curl Options “A wider variety of curl styles can be achieved with the new perm, and the soft, sexy waves that clients want today are easily achieved and can last a long time,” says Toth. “The old style perm did not use heat; the digital perm uses heat to help set the curl memory and to help smooth the hair cuticle, which cuts out frizz.”
BERTS
JULIA RO
T
A solution for fuller hair—immediately
hin-looking hair continues to be a common complaint among salon clients. Nioxin has heard and answered with the launch DiaMax, a brand new thickening treatment that works instantly. Researched and developed over the last five years, the formula works on individual strands by increasing the diameter of each hair follicle by 4.5 per cent. “It also strengthens hair resilience to protect against breakage.” After the first application, clients should expect to see a notable difference in thickness, with no tackiness or oiliness in the hair. DiaMax is applied to the roots, and can be used on wet or dry hair.
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How to Talk to Clients About Thin-looking Hair At the recent launch, psychologist Dr. Stephen Franzoi offered tips to stylists on how to address this fine-line issue: • Project your image as an expert. Know all that you can about thinning hair and speak confidently about the issue to gain clients’ trust. • Provide an opening for clients to discuss concerns, and go through a hair assessment together. Use Nioxin’s customized system wheel, which helps stylists walk clients through a consultation. • Assure clients that they're not alone. Help ease the social anxiety of having thin-looking hair by reminding them that 56 per cent of women and 54 per cent of men report this issue in the salon.
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PHOTO: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, CELEBRITY PHOTOS: CRESTOCK
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hairlines news Brand New on the Scene… Adding to the portfolio of lifestyle brand Bangstyle comes the launch of Bangstyle4Hair, a line of artisan hair products developed by stylists. The website, Bangstyle.com, first launched last summer as a popular global community for artists. The 14 new products offer a simple, high-quality approach to easy, livable hair with wet line and stylers that are straightforward and adaptable. All products are colour-safe, free of parabens, sulfates and sodium chloride, and contain sunscreen to protect hair from UV damage.
Shear Performance Kasho has debuted two new shears with wider blades and step-down teeth designed for snag-free cutting. The notch at the end of the teeth helps release hair after cutting, and the base is smaller to leave more room for uncut hair to smoothly slide through. The SASA 6.0” Offset Shear is made for slide cutting and dry cutting, while the SASA Blending Shear offers smooth wet or dry fine cutting.
TIGI’s brand new colour line, Copyright Colour, offers a completely intermixable collection of shades that can be used alone, mixed and matched, or layered and blended to create a personal colouring palette. Stylists can create a truly custom shade for every
photo courtesy of tigi, photo top left: chris tsintziras, photo, shears courtesy of kasho
Get Creative client, while heightening creativity, technique and skills on a daily basis. The line comprises 46 permanent shades, 21 demi-permanent shades, four strengths of activator, four highlift shades, nine mix master shades and two lightener options.
Ready to mix it up? Try:
➺ ➺ ➺ ➺ 38
salon > may+june 12
A permanent tint mixed with a demi-permanent A demi-permanent mixed with a 40 volume activator High-lift tint mixed with a permanent tint Permanent tint mixed with an 8.5 volume activator
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Take-Home Tools
Two new retail products specially designed for your clients
Rowenta Beauty Curl Activ • 1 ¼-inch barrel size
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• Automatic twirling barrel at the push of a button • Two switches to curl hair in either direction
Rowenta Beauty Double Straight • One-inch tourmaline-coated plates with a built-in comb
• Ceramic-coated plates to smooth hair and reduce frizz • Two temperature settings of 180° C or 210° C, and heats up in 90 seconds
• Ionic generator • Adjustable speed and temperature settings on digital display • Heats up to 450° F in 30 seconds
photos: ChRIs tsINtZIRAs
You’ll love... “I always comb and then straighten hair, so this tool helps get rid of tangles and stretch out hair prior to straightening,” says Darrell Walsh, a hairstylist and technician at SoloBace in Toronto. “When selling these tools to my clients, I like to let the clients actually hold the tool to try the irons in their own hair,” says Walsh.
You’ll love... Walsh says that the automatic rotation is ideal for clients at home. “Since the clamp is at one end of the tool, twirl hair on one end and let it spiral up the length of the barrel, so that the heat evenly curls the hair,” he suggests.
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hairlines business
A Salon by Any Other Name Could rebranding be a good makeover for your business? One owner shares his experience.
Lessons Learned
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Rely on business systems, not people. It’s very likely that your most senior stylists will leave and move on, so you don’t want your business to be crippled by this.
2
Build staff by what they love to do and are good at—don’t fight with your staff to make them good at something they’re not strong in; know when to go with the flow. Respect your employees.
3
The phrase “the customer is always right” means pick your battles. If a client is wrong and unhappy, it’s your business rep at stake if he or she walks away unhappy.
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Contessa 23 Finalist, salon interior Design, spaCe a MiChael levine salon group, vanCouver, photo: Kale Friesen, text: valerie laM
I
f you’re looking to polish up your business image or reposition your salon in the market, rebranding might be a strategy worth investigating. Vancouver salon owner Michael Levine recently rebranded his salons, bringing them together under one umbrella as the Michael Levine Salon Group. What started in 1998 as a four-chair, 600-sq.ft single salon on the third-floor of a building became, by 2011, three different, distinct salons in the South Granville neighbourhood: Statik, Tao and Caramel. After Tao closed in April 2011, Levine and his wife opened a fourth location, Space, which has a cool, airy 2,600-sq.ft. ground-level location with 17 staff. It also boasted a new location in the West Broadway neighbourhood, away from all the others in South Granville. “I had created a lot of brand equity over the years with my own name and the other locations, and I decided that at this point it was time to tie everything together,” says Levine. “It’s hard to compete with other salons if you don’t have that continuity, so that’s how I started examining a parent brand that would still allow me to create salons with completely different energies, but still have them tied together with the unit of the one parent brand.” Before the rebranding, Levine never let out that the Granville salons were owned by the same company. It created a bit of healthy competition between salons when clients remained loyal to Caramel but not Tao; liked the atmosphere at Statik but not at Caramel. “We didn’t have Michael Levine Salon on any of our signage. As soon as we put it on the salons at Caramel and Space, all of a sudden Caramel clients would come into Space and say, ‘Oh, I’m a Caramel client. I just want to see your space,’” says Levine. Casting the parent company name over the salons meant immediate brand recognition and also developed credibility. “I only care about the customer’s opinion, so when I opened Space as Space: A Michael Levine Salon, adding my name to the title has customers thinking, ‘I have no idea who Michael Levine is, but it must mean something if it’s branded like this,” says Levine. At the same time, at the Granville locations, Levine also brightened each salon’s individual image. Statik was always cool and modern; Caramel very warm, inviting and sumptuous. “I said, ‘All you guys get all new signage and cards. I renovated the salons, I put in new chairs, paint and got those guys excited again,” explained Levine. “Eventually they really felt like living up to that brand name, instead of something being imposed on them, and I always want my employees to feel ownership, to nurture a culture like that.”
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http://summernights.gelish.com
hairlines shelf life
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HigH and MigHty American Crew creates a styling gel that locks thick hair into place, so he can walk on in any weather. The gel moisturizes and makes hair matte to the touch. Info: www.americancrew.com
Bend, don’t Break The new ultra-hold tool by Structure, Paste, will flex and glue styles into place and finish with a matte texture. Info: www.structurehair.co.uk
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5 2
Will Work for More Body Eufora’s Thickening Serum is ideal for adding oomph to fine strands that are thin-looking. Work well into damp hair and blow-dry for maximum effect. Info: www.eufora.net
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Colour ProteCt Matrix Biolage Colorcarethérapie offers all-day conditioning for colour-treated tresses that see a lot of rays. Made with a UV complex and without any parabens, just shake, spray and get out in the sun. Info: www.matrix.com
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3
dust tHis A multi-use powder, L’Oréal Professionel’s Fresh Dust is an expert at creating and sealing texture. Use it as a dry shampoo or spray lightly to a styled ‘do. Info: www.lorealprofessionnel.com
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BotaniCal duo This shampoo and conditioner by Bain de Terre will strengthen and repair damaged, processed hair. Formulated with keratin phyto-protein and botanical ingredients, this is a natural solution. Info: www.baindeterre.com
S
Photo: Chris tsintziras, text: valerie lam
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To find out how you can win the products from this page, go to Facebook.com/salon52.
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salonmagazine.ca
in the battle of
y a r p s r i a h . s V spray
hair
there can be only one...
YOU decide the victor in the Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Awards! Choose your favourite shampoo, select the styling product you can’t live without, vote for the number one colour and more.
Voting begins June 22 at readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca ** By entering your vote, you’ll also have a chance to win two tickets to this year’s Contessa Gala on Sunday, November 11, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto.**
s s e n i s u B issue
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The salon industry is about making people feel good, but it has to be about making money, too. One of the best ways you can do this—and help your clients, as well—is through retailing. Ready to become a product-recommending guru?
▼
HAIR: ROSSA JURENAS, MAKEUP: MICHELLE LOS, PHOTO: PAULA TIZZARD
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Choosing a New Line Part of being a retail superstar means having the right products to back you up. The products you choose to carry depends on your salon, your location, your clients, your size and a host of other variables. Here, three owners explain how they chose the right line for their salon and why.
Catherine Lattuca La Coupe Salon & Spa, Montreal Salon Size: 5,000-sq.ft. Staff: 40 stylists, colourists, nail technicians, estheticians and co-ordinators Number of Lines: 3 New Line: Shu Uemura Picked Up: January 2011 Other Lines Considered: “We considered adding something organic. We haven’t found one, but we’d consider expanding to four lines if we found the right line. It would be nice to give people that option.”
Reason for Carrying a New Line: “We carried a lot of different lines, at least eight, and we decided to narrow it down. We wanted to get away from lines that are well-known everywhere. It’s hard when you’re selling a paste for $18.99 that you paid $9.99 for, and the drugstore is selling it at $10.99. It’s very
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hard to compete with that. We were looking for something more exclusive and luxurious to offer.”
Why Shu Uemura: “Our mission is to offer the best workmanship and the best service with the best products available. We really try to keep this in mind and that is what guides our choices. I saw Shu Uemura while reading through some magazines and contacted the company and said, ‘I want this line.’ It was in the States, but not available here yet. So I had to wait. The products are fantastic, and once the clients try it, they
love it. It’s our highest-end brand, and when they see the difference in the product, they’re usually willing to pay extra. And if they don’t, we have lower price points available, too.”
On Choosing a New Line: “I use a little bit of everything [to find new lines]— online, magazines, clients. One client recently gave me the name of her ‘favourite product of all time.’ I have that written down to try. Clients are great because they’ll tell us what they’ve seen through their travels and what they love.”
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHU UEMURA AND CATHERINE LATTUCA; KEVIN.MURPHY AND JED PUZNAK; ALTERNA AND ANTHONY VAN DEN BIGGELAAR
By Melissa Hill
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Jed Puznak The Alcorn, Toronto Other decision makers: Salon manager Hila Zer-Aviv, and The Alcorn's co-owner Salon Size: 5,000-sq.ft. Staff: 11 stylists, 3 front desk/support Number of Lines: 3 New Line: Kevin.Murphy Picked Up: March 2011 Other Lines Considered: “We tried three other sulfatefree lines over the course of six months. We brought them in and tried them out on the floor with clients and solicited feedback.”
Reason for Carrying a New Line: “We were looking for other lines to fill a few missing spots. We were looking for a certain price point; that was the primary motivation. We were also looking for a product
that was sulfate-free. We’ve been doing keratin straightening treatments and we needed a line to support that service."
Why Kevin.Murphy: “The price point fit well with our other two lines and it offered sulfatefree formulas. Clients responded well to the look of the products, as well as the fragrance. The packaging looks modern and fresh. Also, the innovation, like with Colour.Bug, that people
respond well to. The biggest decider was staff support. We were excited hearing from clients, but we knew if the staff supported and believed in it, it would sell. It has since become the leading line in our salon.”
On Choosing a New Line: “We looked in magazines like Allure and trade magazines. Kevin.Murphy actually came to us through a cold call by a sales rep.
Anthony van den Biggelaar Pose Hair, St. Albert, Alta. Other decision-makers: His co-owner, wife Iolanda Salon Size: 1,000-sq.ft. Staff: 5 stylists Number of Lines: 3 New Line: Alterna Picked Up: January 2012 Other Lines Considered: “Everything; lots of other lines. I wanted to make sure the clients are getting what they want and I’m getting what I want.”
Reason for Carrying a New Line: “We completely switched from one distributor to another, so we picked up three new lines over six months. If you can’t rely on your distributor for education and assistance, you’re at float in a big sea. The amount
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of education I’ve now received in the last four months is great; I wouldn’t have gotten that much in 10 years before.”
Why Alterna: “Clients expect something new and exciting. Having a line that does a lot of research and development, like Alterna, means there’s always something new and fresh. It’s a high-end line that does what it says it’s going to do.”
On Choosing a New Line: “Price point matters. One of the lines we got rid of was a high-end line. So we watched and found out what our clients were using. I don’t bring anything in unless I can touch it and try it on my clients. I also spent lots of time reading— websites, packaging materials, complete product-knowledge booklets. If you don’t have information, you’ve got nothing.” S
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Keep Your Clients in the Salon how you can make your business more retail friendly
E
very day, clients walk into your salon, asking questions, taking your advice and getting styles that make them feel like a million bucks. So why is he or she leaving without the products to maintain the look, then popping into a drug store half a block away to buy shampoo? There are many possible answers and excuses. Stylists aren’t recommending products, clients aren’t given choices, companies aren’t protecting their distribution to pro channels. But most recently, it’s that drug stores themselves have become better marketers, turning boring shelves into welcoming areas to peruse beauty products, professional and not. So what can you do? We talked to industry experts to find out what you should pay attention to.
Quebec distributor Star Bédard, it’s the drug stores and grocery stores retailing products. Reuben Carranza, managing director for Professional Beauty at P&G, agrees. “An interesting development in mass market retailing is the creation of a beauty ‘storewithin-a-store.‘ The irony is that these mass merchandisers are trying to duplicate the intimacy and the beauty environment of the salon.”
• Know Your Client. What are clients looking for? Lots of choices. That’s why they like grocery stores, drug stores and specialty stores. Ross Hahn, owner of SwizzleSticks SalonSpa in Calgary, knows this first-hand. “You cannot have a single line anymore,” says Hahn. “Having more than one line has already been decided by the consumer. They won’t buy unless you’re giving them choices.”
• Know Your Competitor. And it’s not the salon down the street. According to Joseph Gossen, director of sales and education for Kevin.Murphy at
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By melissa hill
staff. Look at the needs of both consumers and take into consideration the lines and products your staff wants to carry and use. If they love it, they’ll sell it. But they need choices, too.
• Know Yourself. Why does retail matter? Making sure your work is maintained can help grow your clientele. But when a client is using something you have no control over and he or she finds options elsewhere, says Hahn, you’ve lost the ability to serve the client professionally and you’re half the stylist you should be. Michael Victor, owner of Toronto’s Delineation Skin & Hair, agrees. “From a stylist’s point of view, if you have any respect or passion for your work, you want to help your client maintain it,” he says.
• Know Your Staff.
• Recommend, Recommend, Recommend.
There are also two consumers in your salon, explains Hahn—one is a client, the other is
“The single most important thing a salon can do a to keep a client as a customer is to offer
contessa 23 finalist salon interior, hills coiffure et spa, photo: andrew moniatowicz, opposite page: thinkstock
s s e in s u B s s e e in bus isisssuue
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home-care recommendations consistently,” says Carranza. “The challenge is to increase the frequency of salon contact—whether the contact is an additional visit, through a frequent buyer loyalty program or via social media.”
• Don’t Confine Retail to One Spot. Spread out your retail area—in the waiting area, the bathrooms, the sinks, the styling stations, every spot where the client is spending time. “When clients are sitting in the colour area, for instance, it’s a prime time to get them to open up to products, so do a display in the colour area,” says Gossen. “Place your products where they are related to the services. Make clients active in retail.” The upshot is that you won’t have to “sell.”
• Put Together Packages. Many of your clients are coming in for two and three hours, for cut and colour. Why not ask them if they’d like to book an “elite” or “premium” colour package? This idea comes from Gossen, who recommends that, within packages, you include the necessary shampoo, conditioner or other retail products. Price it right into the package and when the clients check out, give them the retail products to retain their colour.
“Then all the stylists have to do is explain why they gave it to them,” says Gossen.
• Switch Up Your Consultation Style. Gossen recommends that you put product in the hair before you even start the service. “During the consultation, before shampooing, try at least two different styling products in the hair to see how they work,” he says. “Tell the client why you’re doing it. Then wash, cut and blow-dry and come back to the product again. Repetition works well. The more you repeat something, the more likely they jump on board.”
• Discount. And Don’t Be Afraid of Doing It. For Edward Lem, founder and owner of Concepts Salon & Spa in Toronto, having weekly sales has been a boon to the retail business. At least one of his lines is put on sale each week for 15 per cent off. Although you cut into your profit margin, if you double your sales during the time period, as Lem often does, it’ll be worth it, making up for the discount with volume. Also consider offering a preferred client card to promote loyalty—and 10 per cent off whenever they make a purchase.
• Create a Facebook Page or Twitter Account. Post messages about your promotions to bring clients into the salon. “Social media offers a great opportunity for the salon professional to discuss beauty trends, hair problems and solutions, and even product reviews and recommendations in a warm, supportive atmosphere, not unlike that of the salon,” says Carranza.
• Do Retail Reconnaissance. Have a free morning? Go to the mall and analyze different businesses—not salons. Observe how you are enticed into the store, how you interact with the brand and what it’s like when you purchase something. Then, bring elements back to your business, suggests Gossen.
• Offer Choices to Your Clients. If you sell only one shampoo for fine hair and your client doesn’t like something about it—price, smell or packaging, etc.—you’ve lost a sale. So give him or her options. Pull out three or four shampoos and explain why they would work and let him or her decide. Gossen says that three lines is a sweet spot for most owners. But don’t be afraid to go bigger, either. Lem started expanding his retail offerings in the ‘90s and now carries 30 lines at one location and 15 at the other. S
Plan Your Promotions According to retailing expert Joseph Gossen, salon owners and managers should start planning promotions about three months in advance. While it’s not hard to put together packages or tailored retail displays, “you can’t do it last-minute,” he says. In addition to national holidays, be aware of local festivals and events in your own community.
January Earth Month, Prom
May Back to School
September Holiday Season (Get going!)
February Mother’s Day, Victoria Day
June Fall Styles
October New Year’s and New Year’s Resolutions
March Father’s Day and Graduation
July Thanksgiving Day and Halloween
November Valentine’s Day
April Canada Day, Summer Vacation
August Holiday Season
December St. Patrick’s Day, Easter, Passover, Academy Awards, Spring
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Retail Therapy Four Tips for Creating a Winning Display By Yasmin Grothé Other than recommending products for resale, the easiest route to selling is creating the proper setting. A cleverly designed merchandising strategy can turn flat sales into awesome numbers. According to statistics from Point of Purchase Association International (POPAI), the vast majority of buying decisions are made at the point of purchase, that is, your salon. Here’s how to take advantage.
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Fully Stock Your Shelves To encourage clients to test products, make sure that they are between 22 and 66 inches from the floor—proven heights for easy accessibility—as shown in the Redken display. “Don’t be shy about putting the most amount of products on display,” says Mathieu Bouchard, marketing group manager for Redken Canada. “Contrary to what most people think, spacing out the products is actually a big mistake. It gives clients the impression that they are not selling. You are better off having fewer shelves that are nicely packed with product.” Include shelf-talkers (a printed card or other sign attached to a shelf to call buyers’ attention to a particular product) to encourage sales.
Put Together a Retail Window Display This is your opportunity to have unpaid advertising do the work. Use point-of-sale material, photos (think magazine tear sheets and celebrity images) and special promotions to draw people through your door. They will clearly see the products you stock and may simply come in to purchase them. When Orbite salon in Montreal decided to renovate, it opted to include a much bigger window display, an idea that owner Louis Hechter credits with a sharp increase in sales from walk-ins. “Despite the economic challenges, we began selling many more products to clients who would just walk in to purchase what they saw in the window,” says Hechter.
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Position the Front Desk Away from the Entrance
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Eye Level is Buy Level
Where you locate your retail products within the salon can make all the difference. Ideally, a display should be at the front of the salon, enticing clients as they walk through to get to the reception desk. “When doing a retail area you need breathing space. You need to have it clear of reception and never, ever, behind it. All the products have to be accessible,” says Joseph Gossen, education and sales manager for Kevin.Murphy at Quebec distributor Star Bédard.
According to Gossen, “make sure the products are within reach. Customers aren’t going to buy a product they can’t access themselves. And remember retail’s golden rule: eye level is buy level.” What’s more, think of all areas in your salon where you can maximize retail purchases, not just the reception display. “The top sellers should always be at the bottom,” continues Gossen. “You should display products from smaller to bigger. The eyes naturally gravitate toward the bigger, from lighter to heavier.” Also, consider this retail tip from Bouchard: “The idea is to create a storyline. So you should start with your shampoo, conditioner and leave-in and finish with your styling product, in the same sequence as your client will be using the products.” S
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Show me the numbers!
What is the measure of a wildly successful stylist? Take a lesson from these four distinctly different pros. By Helen Vong
Rapid fire Q+A ............................................................ Salon owner? “Never was, but I managed a salon in Taiwan in 1980.”
ting across s globe-trot hi by e ed Fuel d the Middl ia, Europe an As t as nt he la ut So kyo transp e ’80s, this To East during th the esthetics iration from sp in s hi s draw iritual outlook travels and sp ly ld or w s hi of e West Coast revered on th is e H r e. lif on tistic hair cutte and, highly ar em -d in g in an nc as ur of enha trends in favo who eschews client. A selfch auty of ea be l ra tu ul na e th calls beautif alth nut, he he ed rib sc de r now. bia home—fo British Colum
31– Years in the industry. 1981– Year he immigrated to Canada from Japan.
2– Number of children. 3– Mentors he credits his work ethic
and artistic passion to: “My former boss in Tokyo, the late Yusuke Suga. Tsukiko Takagi, a Suki’s salon owner. And the late Pete Dancose, a custom motorcycle builder. He treated my Harley like jewelry. I often spent my days off at his small shop, just watching him create and build high-end bikes from scratch. I learned a lot of ingenuity from him.”
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First gig? “TV commercial assistant in Tokyo at age 19.” Caffeine vice? “Two cups of coffee a day; one in the morning and the other at 3-ish.”
Advice to newbies? “Be humble and dignified. There are some stylists who put themselves on a pedestal, and I’ve been there, but remember that without clients, you do not exist.”
$90– Price he charges for a woman’s 40– Average number of clients cut and style.
$70– Price he charges for men’s cut. $300– Maximum charge for a wedding updo, including travel time.
per week.
20– Minutes it takes him to walk to work.
5
AM – Up in the morning. “I
11
PM – In bed at night.
$145– Average price for colour and highlight combo.
5– Days he works per week. He’s
off on Sundays and Wednesdays.
go to the gym every morning to energize myself for the day ahead.”
PHOTO COURTESTY OF HIROSHI NAKAGAWA, PHOTO: THINKSTOCK
a, 55 Hiroshi Nakagaw nal, Suki’s Internatio Vancouver
salonmagazine.ca
As technical director of an award-winning salon, this master-level L’Oréal Professionnel colourist eats, sleeps and breathes colour and education. And she has the cred to prove it: her shelf is lined with wins from the Contessas and a L’Oréal Colour Trophy. When she isn‘t behind the chair exceeding the expectations of her ever-so-loyal clientele, Brown is mentoring fellow stylists on the latest colour formulations and how to maximize profits without losing integrity.
16– Years in the industry. 0– Number of children. 3– Days per month she takes off to
devote to professional development, like editorial and competitive photo shoots. Her passion has taken her to London, Paris and New York.
$27– Price she charged for a
woman’s cut when she was a junior stylist.
$60– Price she charges for a
woman’s cut and style today.
$28– Price she charges for a men’s cut today.
$150– Price she charges for a colour and highlights.
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55– Days she works per week, Tuesday to Saturday.
40– Average number of clients she
sees per week. “On busier days, it‘s 10 to 12 clients; on slower days it‘s six to eight. I primarily do colour.”
450– Average number of tubes of
Rapid fire Q+A ............................... Salon owner? “No, and have never been one. Although many people think I am an owner at Ricci Hair Co., as I look after it as though it were my own.” First gig? “A part-time salon receptionist at 18.” Caffeine vice? “Coffee in the morning and tea in the afternoon.”
L’Oréal Professionnel colour the salon goes through per week.
2-4– Hair competitions she enters per year.
10– Minutes to commute to work. 7 AM – Up in the morning. 12 AM – In bed at night.
Advice to newbies? “Be a team player and a visionary all at once. How? Take every opportunity you can to learn from everyone you can and ask those people ‘why?’ as well as ‘how?’ Develop the ability to self-critique. Don’t think everything you produce is amazing—because it isn’t! Analyze, evaluate, ask yourself how you could do better.” ▼
CONTESSA 23, FINALIST ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST, HAIR: CRYSTAL BROWN, MAKEUP: NICOLA GAVINS, PHOTOS: SEANN CHILDS
Crystal Brown, 34 Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton
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the the
s s e in s u B s s e e in bus isisssuue
Mickey Svircevic, 42 Mane Society Salon Spa, Richmond Hill, Ont. “Straight away, mate!” shouts the chipper Aussie to a group of fiercely loyal clients as he preps his chair for another fully booked Saturday. To onlookers, it’s a strange scene: suburban moms lined up at nine in the morning to see a long-haired 6’3” man donning a cowboy hat and sunglasses. As a former platform artist for Farouk—he was one half of the dynamic duo known as Mickey and Bradley, who toured the world creating edgy haircuts on stage to the tune of AC/DC—frenetic energy is in his blood.
Rapid fire Q+A ................................................. Salon owner? “I was one back home, but I vowed never to own again in order to have a life outside of work and time for my family.” Lines you rep? “In the past, I have represented Paul Mitchell, L’Oréal Professionnel and Farouk Systems.” Caffeine vice? “I’m on a health kick, so I’m sipping a lot of green and chai teas.”
Advice to newbies? “Break the rules, but learn them first. There’s a method to my madness. And never go to work sad, tired or angry. Be ready to help people feel good about themselves.”
junior stylist at age 15.
$ 120 +– Price he charges today for a woman’s cut and style.
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Mascolo and Trevor Sorbie.
4 – Minutes it takes him to get to work.
40 – Tubes of Wella colour he goes through each week.
4 – Number of Australian Outback cowboy hats he owns.
6 AM – Up in the morning. 11:15 PM – In bed at night.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BABAK
28– Number of years in the industry. $ 55– Price he charges for a men’s cut. 2– Number of daughters. 1 9 9 4 – Year he moved to Canada from Sydney, Australia. 40-70– Average number of clients he 5– Days he works per week; 9 am to serves each week. 5 pm on Tuesdays to Saturdays. $ 25 – Price he charged for a woman’s 2 – Number of mentors: Anthony cut and style when he was a
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4 Angelina Biros, 4 s Salon Natural Solution w), and Spa (Fairvie Toronto
sweater, the mall for a You head to tment, ea tr d keratin not a cut an notch pto think that right? If you alone dan st work at stylists only ngie. A et m you haven’t salons, then may a in el , this Ang Just like Jolie get ut B t. u at firs intimidate yo cks lo de on mbshell bl past those bo th ar -e to nw find a do and you’ll ltcu t os m al has an stylist who nt ie cl a by proven like following, d ne ai m re s that ha retention rate r career. throughout he steadily high
Rapid fire Q+A
26– Number of years in
$25– Price she charges for a
2– Number of grown children. 4– Number of mentors—
4– Number of days per week
the industry.
Patrick Cameron, Martin Parsons, The Rusk Cutting Team and Vidal Sassoon.
$ 14– Price she charged for a PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANGELINA BIROS
woman’s cut when she was a junior stylist at 18 years old.
$60-85– Her price range for a woman's haircut and style today.
$35+– Price for a woman’s
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blowout.
men’s cut.
she works, Wednesday to Saturdays.
30-40– Number of clients
Salon owner? “No. I am self-employed, meaning that I give the salon a percentage of the income I bring in.” Do you compete? “Not anymore. I’ve settled comfortably with my clientele and I thrive on the instant gratification I get from making each client happy.” Caffeine vice? “I drink about four cups of coffee a day. I can't focus without it!”
per week.
35– Tubes of L’Oréal
Professionnel colour used each week.
30 – Minutes to commute to work.
7:30
AM – Up in
11:30
PM – In bed at night.
the morning.
Advice to newbies? “Keep yourself fresh and updated with current trends, but also master the classic looks. And, most importantly, listen to your client! You have to discuss their lifestyle and how much time they have to spend on their hair, to come to a practical decision together.” S
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Creative Direction: Craig Hanson Hair: Theri DeJoode & Paul Wilson Styling: Francesco Sourigues Photos: David Raccuglia
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Modern Americana b The new standard is tapered, classic and cool
old and refined, hair in Mattematic, the new American Crew collection, exudes the confidence of the rebel spirit. Shapes are tall and full, expertly built for medium to thick hair, and reigning in unruly locks. S Inspired by these looks? Enter American Crew's Face Off competition! Be named Canada's best, and you'll go to L.A. for the global competition, plus other prizes. Go to AmericanCrew.com/FaceOff for more. Deadline is September 1, 2012!
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Paparazzi Ready
n
Classic Hollywood glams up for the Cinematic collection ostalgia for American film goddesses inspired the new Cinematic collection from Revlon Professional. A Rita Hayworth look-alike models red, textured hair, while a classic Hitchcock girl is coiffed and coloured with the light fawn shades favoured in the ‘50s and ‘60s. The blonde bombshell is a timeless diva with attitude, wearing a sunshine tone that is a refreshing alternative to icy beach-blondes. A blend of Elizabeth Taylor and Ava Gardner’s chocolate-brown looks, infused with slivers of caramel and gold completes the fourth style. S
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Styling and Colour: Charlie Price and the Revlon Professional International Artistic Team
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Hair: Simone Lee Makeup: Kristen Ashton, Photos: Meiji Nguyen for Mira Studios
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Glossy Aussie
Simone Lee joins forces with Mira Studios for new collection, Fabrik
A
veil, an adornment, a crown. Hair can be all of these things to the face. A perfectionist at heart with a penchant for pushing the boundaries, Australian hairstylist Simone Lee celebrates the malleability of hair. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Fabrik collection was inspired by the beauty of hair in all its forms: smooth or straight, rough or undefined. It is glorious and it is my textile. My fabric!â&#x20AC;? says Lee. S
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Manicure Menagerie
High-fashion design pushes the envelope with polish
l
ollipop brights, edgy ombres and inspired detailing rule CNDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new spring 2012 collection. With these hot digits created by three runway nail stylists, Candice Manacchio, Wanda Ruiz and Kristina Estabrooks, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to see every gesture. S
To see more images from the collection, as well see more collection, as theTo products usedimages to createfrom eachthe look, go to as well as the products used to create SalonMagazine.ca!
each look, go to SalonMagazine.ca!
Photos: Courtesy of CND salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Michelle Thompson, Francesco Group Makeup: Pauline Briscoe Photos: Joseph Sinclair
Michelle Thompson reimagines the classics in a new collection for Mizani
Classic Candy A
s colourful and tasty as childhood sweets, these vibrant cuts and colours are brought to life. “This spring/summer collection was inspired by the classics that will never die,” says Michelle Thompson, creative director of Mizani. “The classic bob has been given a strong fringe. The soft, delicate curls give a naturally undone but controlled look. The use of the background colour and clothing gives this classic reinvention a young, fresh, fun feel.” S
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The Future is Unveiled A new avant-garde collection from a Toronto stylist inspires for summer
t
oronto hairstylist Dat Tran created his latest collection, Futuristic Veils, after being inspired by Kris Sorbie’s collection from NAHA 2011. Crepe-like structures made with hair fibre are placed on top of a simple updo to give an ultraexaggerated look, but still maintaining an airy “je ne sais quoi.” S
Hair: Dat Tran for Dat Salon Stylist: Tasha Farrington Makeup: Angie Di Battista Models: Geneviève O, Agata W, Kate E Photos: Olga Barkhatova
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Hair: Rossa Jurenas Ontario, Canada Makeup: Michelle Los Stylist: Rossa Jurenas Jewelry Designer: Sarah Cownley Photos: Paula Tizzard
Crown of Jewels These glam styles prove business doesn’t have to be boring
W
ith power-suit strong silhouettes from Paris fashion and bling so heavy that it drips on the runway, Rossa Jurenas created a bold, clean collection, which was a finalist for Canadian Hairstylist of the Year in the 23rd Annual Contessas. “You can see how the light reflects off the necklace, and we designed the necklace to tie in with the sequins in clothing trends,” says Jurenas. “The hair inspiration came by looking at texture and figuring out how to complement the hair with the glamour of the jewelry and strong look in the clothing. It’s both soft and edgy.” S
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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry
Hair: Alann Sluser Makeup: Charlotte Vezina Photos: Alain Comtois
Violet Crowns
Alann Sluser creates wearable fashion for her Contessa 23 Makeover Colourist collection
L
ike for many hairstylists, inspiration flows from fashion runways. With an eye on the fall 2011 shows, the prevalent violet colour theme stayed with Alann Sluser. Sluser, a colourist for 12 years at Salon Montage in Spruce Grove, Alta., recently opened her own salon, KoKo The Salon by Alann Sluser, in April. â&#x20AC;&#x153;There was a lot of violet tones worn on the runway, and I wanted to make something that was very fashion-forward but also commercial. In fashion shoots, so often the looks are not suitable for everyday wear, and I wanted to create something edgy but still feminine,â&#x20AC;? says Sluser. She struck a harmony with her Contessa collection, which transformed a beachblonde model and two dark-chocolate brunette models using shades of purple. S
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PROFILE
Glittering Path
A star stylist shares highlights from his long career in hair By Yasmin Grothé
Q. You first studied art and art history before becoming a hairstylist. What made you change your mind?
A. My end goal was to study fashion but I got sidetracked by music and needed a day job, so I thought hairdressing was the perfect solution—fashion-fuelled, creative and I got to listen to music all day, too!
Q. What did you learn at Sassoon that has helped you the most in your career?
A. Wow, I learned so much at Vidal Sassoon! But I guess the thing I cherish the most is the discipline it instilled in me.
Q. You’ve worked with some of the biggest names in fashion. Can you offer some tips to young hairstylists who would like to become involved in creating looks for the runway? A. The best way to get involved in runway hair is to assist an established session stylist. It’s easier to do so in the fashion capitals, but, nevertheless, if you’re hungry enough you can
Richard’s Greatest Hits
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“This is from our current collection, Xray, and was inspired by a famous photographer, Fernand Fonssagrives. There’s a direct correlation between what he did with nudes and what we do with hair.”
get in touch with hair and makeup agencies in larger cities and see if they are looking for help on any shows. Sadly, it‘s usually unpaid, but the lessons are priceless!
Q. What are your greatest sources of inspiration?
A. Fashion, music and the arts are constants on my radar.
Q. Who are your style icons? A. Iggy Pop and Keith Richards circa early ‘70s—irreverent and enduring rockers. Balenciaga (the fashion house)—undoubtedly unique, subtle and timeless. Designer Hussein Chalayan—his work speaks so loudly to me, the simplicity and ingenuity are incredible.
Q. Why did you decide to launch Saco? A. It was the end of an era at Sassoon and with a new chapter beginning there, the time felt right. I always felt an enormous amount of respect for anyone with his or her own business and often considered the challenge. I met my business partner Aldo Furfaro a few years earlier, and I decided to make the leap.
Q. What are you offering the market that makes it unique and exciting for stylists?
A.
Our mantra is “Beauty First,” and we are committed to making exciting progressive work that still respects the needs of every salon stylist and her or his clients—to make people “With this collection, Primary, we focused on core shapes—round, square and triangle. These shapes are fundamental to hairdressing and techniques.”
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SACO
B
ritish hairstylist Richard Ashforth moved to London in the late ‘80s to begin an exciting career with Vidal Sassoon, which would last almost 20 years. He’s since worked with the greatest designers in fashion and is now at the helm of Saco, a name synonymous with quality, and a recognized creative force within the industry.
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look and feel good. I think this is all too often overlooked during education, where technique and innovation have a disregard for this fundamental element.
Q. How important is online training?
A. In a world where education is the key to improving your knowledge, expertise and ultimately your income, we believe online education is vital for many people. Not everyone has access to training academies or has the budget to make a trip there, so online education is an amazing way of exposing yourself to new ideas and techniques. It allows you to not only train yourself, but also your staff from your own location.
“Xcess is about minimalism and making a much more powerful statement with less. The theme is timeless beauty this season— androgyny, ‘no makeup’ makeup and wearable hair.”
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Q. Tell us about the products you’ve developed at Saco.
A. The latest products that we’re really excited about are our new scissors, due to hit the market in just a few weeks. We’ve teamed up with Mizutani to design scissors that are both high-end and affordable. It’s been our mission to develop good scissors that everyone can afford, as they are integral to precision cutting.
Q. Where do you see the company evolving in the next few years?
A. We have just launched our Salon Franchising program, which has led us to team up with some amazing people and spread the Saco philosophy a little further. For me, Saco is about the people, it’s about positive attitudes and beautiful work. There’s more to come for sure! S “Our Curve collection was inspired by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. We used pastels, based on the way he uses natural light in his buildings. It‘s a nice balance between stark white and the use of colour.”
“With Primary, we kept the colour palette to black, grey, red and white. Ultimately, we were inspired by the new wave movement of the late ‘70s and early ‘80s; an anti-pop, sombre statement.”
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colour
Summer Shade Trends Sport the season’s new “it” hair colours By Alexandra Innes
A
Nicole Richie
ShaileNe Woodley
Light and Bright
protect beautiful sunny shades with these UV blockers
Shine On Keep the brilliance of the sun with Goldwell’s Sun Reflects leave-in shimmer-gel. Ideal for colourtreated hair, the gel controls hair while giving protection and moisture for allday shiny hair.
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Spray-On L’Oréal Professionnel's new Solar Sublime line offers instant protection to sun exposure. Formulated with UV filters, spray directly onto wet or dry hair.
Radiant Beams Leave AprèsSoleil Serum by Kérastase in hair to fight against dryness and UV rays.
Julio Rodriguez, artistic director of Colour for Matrix Canada. He cites Sofia Vergara, Rooney Mara, Nicole Richie, Kelly Osbourne and Nicki Minaj as great examples of summer colour. “These colour trends are suitable for anyone,” he adds. “It’s the amount of enhancement the client wants that warrants whether they will whisper, sing or roar.” Tone-on-Tone “Multidimensional” is definitely this summer’s colour buzzword. “The ‘Hollywood Blonde’ is really becoming popular,” says Amie
Now Screening Designed for scalp protection, Bosley Professional Strength Sunscreen is packed with weightless SPF.
Cruel, Cruel Summer When chlorine bogs down sunstressed hair, Schwarzkopf Professional's BC Bonacure Sun Protect Hair & Body Shampoo provides relief.
celeBrIty photoS: creStock, photoS: chrIS tSIntzIrAS
h, summer! The golden glow makes everyone feel a bit lighter and brighter—and that‘s just the hair. Shades this season range from the natural to the extraordinarily bold, taking a cue from celebrities of yesterday—including iconic blondes like Twiggy, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe—and today. “I always have my iPad full of photos of current celebrities’ hairstyles and colour that I know my clients will want,” says
salonmagazine.ca
Breckenridge Goltz, director of Field Education and the Scruples Academy. “This means we are no longer just using one shade to achieve the blonde look, but incorporating a base colour, highlight and lowlight to really give blonde shades beautiful dimension and brilliance.” But it isn’t only blondes who will have more fun with their colour. This summer, brunettes and redheads can go lighter and brighter, too. While blondes are going pearlescent, you can add caramel, beige or a hint of copper highlights for your brunette clients. Peach and coral, blonde or lighter red highlights look stunning on redheads. The New Ombre For clients who are willing to make a bold statement with their hair colour, last year’s ombre hit has led to a colourful new trend. Try using several shades from different colour palettes and focus it in one area—at the hair tips, for example. Blondes can add a hint or more of pastel tones in pink and blue. Hues of red, purple and blue look great on daring brunettes. Dark brunettes can introduce pops of jewel-tone accents. And shades of pink and indigo are also popular.
Lock Down Hempz Couture’s Color Protect Shampoo is made with organic hemp seed oil to lock in maximum colour. Finish Strong Eufora’s Elevate Finishing Spray keeps coloured hairstyles from fading under harmful UV rays.
salonmagazine.ca
Don’t let a challenging economy deter you from recommending colour to a client in need of a lift. “We are stepping through what have been tough times,” Joico international guest artist Lance Blanchette points out. “Women want reasons to celebrate and shine a bit more. There is no better time than now to shed the old and celebrate the new.” sofia Vergara
A Full Consultation Don’t forget to take your clients’ skin tone and eye colour into account when consulting with them about new hair colour, especially if they’re going more than two levels lighter or darker. “Skin tone is very important in choosing the right colour,” Rodriguez says. “This is why I recommend strategic placement of enhancement colour on bases that will support the skin tone and the highlight.” “My general rule,” says Sue Pemberton, international artistic director for Joico, “is if the client has brown or green eyes, then warmer colours will be best, whether that be a warm blonde, brunette or redhead. And if the client has blue eyes, cool colours are best, but only if more than two levels of lift is desired.” S
sienna miller
Protect Natural UVinhibitors in Malibu C’s Color Wellness Conditioner preserves colour. Solar Mask Restore parched strands with AfterSun Replenishing Masque by Paul Mitchell.
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nails
Retail Tips for Nails Smarten your strategies when it comes to take-home products
How can I start the conversation? To develop a relationship where the nail tech becomes an ally for making nails look great, Cara Todd, owner of Instant Flawless Tanning in Halifax, works with the client’s complaints. “You can turn their complaints into suggestions,” says Todd. Offer them the full benefit of your expertise. “It’s important to educate your client,” adds Alyson Ertell, education co-ordinator at LCN International. “Be prepared to not only name and talk about the product, but also how to use it at home and how much it will cost. You need to be prepared with product knowledge and the price of products.” When should I recommend products? “From the time you start the service, talk about the first product you use on clients. Say it’s a manicure—talk about the cuticle softener, and go down the list as you go through the service,” says Ertell, who is also the owner of Hypnotic Salon & Spa in Sherwood Park,
Alta. “The whole time with your client is your opportunity. It’s your time to prescribe, or recommend. If you’re looking at your client’s cuticles and they’re dry, then be blunt and tell them that they should be going home with nail oil.” What should I retail? Following the client’s gaze, Ertell also suggests pairing related items nearby. “What’s good with nail polish? Nail polish remover. Well, people need swabs to take that off with, so I’ll have a little package with swabs. What else will they need? Nail oil. So I’ll also have that nearby,” she says. It’s also a good idea to combine seasonal and classic products on the display. “In the spring when people are thinking about their feet, you’ll want to display classic products that will really hydrate your heels to perk up winter feet,” suggests Ertell. How can I ramp up my product display? “You want to have a focal point,” says Ertell. “Where do clients first look when they walk into a salon? For me, it’s the fireplace, which is where I put my brand-new products. You want a nice feature area, where you can place new products.” Ertell also suggests rotating this display every two weeks. “You want to have it look fresh. We’re always looking for that shiny, new thing.” S
Know Your Nail Client In her eight years as a salon owner, Todd has seen everyone from teenagers to mature clientele. Here’s what you need to know about selling to these age groups.
LCN, “which goes around the cuticle and tastes horrible. Something that tastes so bad never sold so well!” Recommending cuticle oil also helps teens with dry nails.
• Teens “A lot of teens are not
‘20s “Clients in their ‘20s are very social. They’re out in town dressed up in heels. Because they want to look good, the possibilities are endless,” says Todd. She’s been successful at selling whole treatments and
thinking about preserving their nails. We see a lot of nail biters, and they’re not moisturizing,” says Todd. To prevent teens from this bad habit, Todd is successful with retailing Nail Bitter by
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•
pampering them in the salon. For retail, bright nail polish and special-effect polishes are really hot with this age group.
•
Mature Clients “This group is concerned with anti-aging. They’re moisturizing a lot, and they need it at work if they’re working with a lot of paper. Todd recommends the Olive Care line by LCN, which gives clients a whole battery of balms, lotions and hand baths to battle dry skin.
Everyone •“YouFordon’t want to sell what’s not needed,” advises Todd. “If you force a client to buy something, she might go home and decide she doesn’t like it, and chances are she won’t want to come back to you.” Instead, recommend products that will win clients’ trust. This way, your salon will be on their speed dial when they reach out their wellmaintained hands to call in for the next appointment.
salonmagazine.ca
photos: chris tsintziras
J
ust as it is with hair, are you making sure that your nail clients are able to maintain your beautiful work in between appointments? The best way to ensure this is to send them home with the proper products. We had two experts answer your top questions about retailing nail products.
By Valerie Lam
Summer Brights Roundup Minnie’s back! The ladylike mouse returns with OPI’s frosted, confetti-filled collection that Minnie herself will heart.
Colours from the 2012 summer collection by Essie will really make nails pop. Mojito Madness green is a fave.
If your clients have recovered from the Crackle fever, China Glaze introduces a new addiction, Crackle Glitter in four radiant shades. Spry Mother Earth bursts in living colour in SpaRitual’s vegan and natural lacquers from the Pigment and Gold collections .
Towel? Check. Sunglasses? Check. China Glaze adds another essential to the beach bag with the Summer Neons collection.
Colour Me Up by LCN are made in two formulas so clients can have an in-salon gel coating and touchup with polish at home.
By Star Nail Eco Soak-off, the Glitter Allure gel collection of eight will have the galaxies at clients’ fingertips.
The first step in a pedicure is about prepping les pieds. Cuccio Naturalé creates a water-resistant, stainless-steel file for the job.
It’s back to the roller rink for laser tag with these nail art pens that glow under black light, made by CINA Nail Creations.
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Help clients keep their nails in clip-top shape with a redesigned mini cuticle nipper by OPI, available in June.
CND adds six shades to the Shellac Power Polish system. Made for the digits of a doyenne, the hues are classic and sophisticated.
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esthetics
Pregnant Appointment
A
What to expect when she’s expecting By Valerie Lam
t some point, your clientele will probably double—for nine months at least. If a client is pregnant, how can the spa handle with care? Paying attention to contraindications is a must. Jennifer O’Rourke, director of admissions at the Canadian Beauty College, and Jolene Ali, owner of Sweet Momma pregnancy spa in Edmonton, share tips.
Ask which trimester your client is in. “The first trimester is the highest risk. Everything is very delicate at that time, and you have to take extra precautions in the first trimester,” says O’Rouke, who prefers to defer all treatments until the second and third semester. At Sweet Momma, where pregnancy acupuncture is also offered, the staff will assess whether there has been a history of miscarriage or if there is a high-risk in the pregnancy before a treatment. “Our staff is trained not to stimulate pregnancy points during the first trimester,” says Ali.
➺Don’t...
Use anything too abrasive. Since hormones are changing rapidly, clients might face different reactions than they normally would. “Even if they’re not normally allergic to something, they might feel like their skin is burning if you’re using vitamin C and vitamin A, so that should be avoided,” explains O’Rourke. “We let them know that they can’t have certain facials, like a chemical peel, or anything with harsh chemicals. Instead, we might do a relaxing hydrating facial.”
➺Do...
Keep the temperature down. “We don’t do thermal treatments on our pregnant clients,” says Ali. “We have heat wraps post-pregnancy to help with losing any excess water, but when a client is pregnant, you don’t ever want to raise the body temperature above 37° C. For our hydrating body wraps, we just use towels and oil; we don’t use any heat on them at all.”
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➺Don’t...
Skip the massage. “Pregnancy massages are really relaxing,” says O’Rourke. “But nothing vigorous, like a soft-tissue massage. Calves tend to swell up a lot around the ankle, but you don’t want it to be very deeptissue with a lot of stimulation, just a little bit of release.” Spa estheticians will also want to look out for blood clots and varicose veins. “You don’t want to be moving those around or applying any pressure,” says Ali. O’Rourke would recommend avoiding the treatment altogether if clients show varicose veins: “Safety first.”
➺Do...
Be cautious with essential oils. “I wouldn’t use anything that can have a medicinal effect and you’re not sure how it affects a pregnancy,” says Ali. “Unless it’s very innocuous, like traces of lavender, you have to remember that essential oils are medicinal. They may not be as active as Tylenol, but they definitely have active ingredients that affect the body.”
➺Don’t...
Forget client comfort. Having a number of pillows in different sizes and shapes can help pregnant clients feel comfortable, according to Ali and O’Rourke. They can range from chest pillows, pillows for legs, under the knees and to support the head. Sweet Momma is also careful to have armrests on the chairs in the waiting room to assist pregnant women with getting up and down. “You have to remember to make your environment pregnancy-friendly, and people will come.” S
photo: thinkstock
➺
Do...
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INTERIORS
PHOTOS: MATTY CONRAD
1
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A Score for Men 1. Victory Barber and Brand is a rare find for gentlemen in Victoria. The mirror frames were salvaged from a junkyard and sanded down to bring a truly grainy vintage texture to the salon. Overhead, “Mooskie,” the looming moosehead (an heirloom from the ‘40s) keeps watch. 2. Redolent of the 1940s, chairs were chosen to look like your grandfather’s favourite seat at the barber. All the furniture is vintage and repurposed. “You can’t put new things with old things and have them fit together,” says Conrad. 3. True to its core value of old-school authenticity, even the typeface, named Victory, is hand-painted and designed in the style of the ‘30s, when barbers used to list their services on the shop window. 4. The reception and retail area is stocked with products imported from eight countries. “I’m a bit obsessed,” confesses Conrad of finding just the right items to suit his particular taste in men’s esthetics.
salonmagazine.ca
Timeless masculinity and modern cool meet at a vintage men’s salon By Valerie Lam
“W
e’re not a mancave,” is one of the first things salon owner Matty Conrad makes clear. “Instead, we want to create a barbershop that highlights the fact that men’s grooming is an art form.” Having worked on the Schwarzkopf Professional Canada team on the West Coast and recently invited to the ASK Academy in Toronto to teach traditional men’s grooming, Victory Barber and Brand is Victoria’s answer to the recovery of the bygone art of barbering. “We’re trying to bring back that cut and coolness, and inspire younger stylists. We’re bringing back straight shaves and really good clipper work,” says Conrad. “If you look at men’s fashion, there’s a move away from the fancy-boy haircut of faux-cuts. We’re going into classic tapers, really high-end tight haircuts, something that’s disconnected and heavily swept, and styled and groomed properly.” Conrad is also developing his own line of shaving products and facial care, together with a naturopath, called Victory Barber and Brand Apothecary, which is set to be released this summer. S
The Specs Location: Victoria Owner: Matty Conrad Space: 1,800-sq.ft.
Staff • 9 barbers • 3 receptionists Website www.victorybarbers.com
Brands Portland General, Malin & Goetz, Ursa Major, Truefitt & Hill, Edwin Jagger, Baxter of California, Go247, Schwarzkopf Professional, Victory Barber and Brand Apothecary (forthcoming)
may+june 12 < salon
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SCOOP
Schwarzkopf Professional [3D]mension at Movie Prèmiere The puck dropped in Toronto for the première of the hockey movie Goon, where [3D]mension sponsored the event and afterparty. Cast, crew and friends came to the afterparty to celebrate with drinks, music and hockey video games at the [3D]mension gaming station, while Jay Baruchel also took a seat for a quick restyle by the Schwarzkopf Professional team.
A GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY Congratulations to Pivot Point International, Inc., which is celebrating 50 years of quality education this year! Founded by the late Leo Passage, the programs in several languages, which are used around the world. More than one million hairstylists have been trained and graduated under the Pivot Point method.
HELLO AND GOODBYE Colin Ford has been promoted to worldwide director of education at L’Oréal Professionnel and will be moving to Paris for the role. Ford has been with the company for 12 years. Alain Laroche has been promoted to director of professional development for both Pureology and L’Oréal Professionnel, in the capacity of education, events and salon business development. Lou Georgelos joins PBI Group, Inc. as senior VP of sales and marketing. In his new role, Georgelos will oversee sales, marketing, education, customer service and business developmemt for Hempz Body and Sun Care, Hempz Couture Hair Care and SoTan brands.
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, THINKSTOCK, PBI GROUP, INC. ROWENTA BEAUTY AND L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
company offers educational
salonmagazine.ca
Salon Magazine 04/12
Canadians Win for LCN in Germany
LCN Canada recently travelled to Germany for this year’s World Export Meeting. Representing more than 50 countries, 150 people came for advanced training in all LCN aspects. The latest 2012 Trend Collections showcased current products and techniques, while the
Ad Size Light Cured Products internationally. 3.75”W x 10” H
four-day event finished with an awards banquet, where Susan Keddy and Wolf Hatheway won the award for the Highest Sales in LCN
Rowenta Beauty’s New Brand Ambassador When Amber George, owner of Verve Hair Lounge in Vancouver, entered a contest using the Rowenta Versa Style, she was hopeful she might win. Not only did she win the contest— with VIP access to World MasterCard Fashion Week—she also caught the attention of Rowenta Beauty, which recently named her one of its new brand ambassadors. Congratulations!
New Beauty CompaNy Cutter + StileS lauNCheS Kevin.Murphy and Bangstyle have been brought under the same umbrella with parent company, Cutter + Stiles. “We are listening intently to salon professionals and consumers with a goal to deliver the very best of what they want and need.” says Rick Kornbluth, CEO of Cutter + Stiles. “Both Kevin.Murphy and Bangstyle products are made from the best ingredients that we can find, and are sulfate- and paraben- free. I could not be prouder of the work we have done thus far, and it’s only going to get better.”
L’Oréal Professionnel at Paris Fashion Week Fashion-inspired beauty company L’Oréal Professionnel has signed a three-year agreement from 2012 to 2014 as the official partner of Paris Fashion Week. “Becoming an official partner of the prestigious week allows us to further strengthen the close ties between fashion emphasize our role as a trend leader and to highlight our commitment to Parisian elegance,” says Thies Posken, international director of
salonmagazine.ca
L’Oréal Professionnel • PureOlogy • Matrix • Logics Alterna • Kevin Murphy • DS Laboratories • Lakmé Tressa • Babe • Dannyco • Ego • Kasho • One Styling Bioelements • OPI • SpaRitual
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SASKATCHEWAN ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon Edmonton (306) 343-3398 (780) 454-3388
MANITOBA 1644 St James St. Winnipeg (204) 783-8878
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Artistic Nail Design pg 83 ................................................................................ www.artisticnaildesign.com Bangstyle pg 28.................................................800-387-2962 ........................ www.kevinmurphy.com.au CND pg 41 .........................................................800-387-7980 ........................ www.cnd.com Contessa 24 pg 76-77 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salonmagazine.ca Cuccio Naturalé pg 45 ......................................800-762-6245 ........................ www.cuccio.com Elevate Magazine pg 22 ....................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.elevatemagazine.com Essie Ballet Slippers pg 25 ..............................877-309-8619 ........................ www.essie.com Essie Poppy•Razzi Collection pg 53 .................877-309-8619 ........................ www.essie.com Gelish Sizzling Summer Nights pg 43 ............................................................ www.gelish.com
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GiGi All Purpose Honee pg 99..........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com
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Goldwell Blonde pg 23 .....................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwell-northamerica.com
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IBD Beauty Just Gel Polish pg 69 & 71............800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com
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International Beauty Services pg 87.................800-642-3818
Address ___________________________Suite _________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________ Phone _________________________________________
Joico Vero K-Pak Color pg 100 ........................877-426-2590 ........................ www.joico.com KeraStraight pg 37 ........................................................................................... www.kerastraight.ca
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❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________
Malibu C Wellness pg 23..................................800-622-7332 ........................ www.malibuc.com Matrix Total Results pg 2-3 .............................888-935-1885 ........................ www.matrixmiracles.com Milano Software pg 91 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosoftware.com Mixed Chicks pg 40 ...........................................877-888-0480 ........................ www.mixedchicks.net One Styling Tools pg 31.....................................855-663-7895 ........................ www.onestyling.com OPI Vintage Minnie Mouse pg 19 .....................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com
# of Employees ____
Orofluido pg 17..................................................800-387-7980 ........................ www.orofluido.com
What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________
Pivot Point pg 86 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca
What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se212
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FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432
Pureology Precious Oil pg 8-9 .........................800-361-1861 ........................ www.pureology.com Reader’s Choice Awards pg 46 .........................800-720-6665 ........................ www.readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca Redken Chromatics pg 12-13 ...........................866-973-3536 ........................ www.redken.ca Schwarzkopf 3DMension pg 10-11 ..................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 16-17 .....................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora Color 10 pg 4-5 .................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca SpaRitual Hand Print pg 39 .............................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com TIGI Copyright Colour pg 14-15 .......................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com
MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0
Uans pg 94 ........................................................800-461-8267 ........................ www.uans.com
or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca
Wella Professionals pg 6-7 ...............................800-41-WELLA...................... www.wella.com
salon > may+june 12
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EVENTS
ABA Toronto WHO: Education was the name of the game, with top educators and stylists like Tabatha Coffey, Guylaine Martel, Isabelle Lachance, Matt Collins, Richard Ashforth, Amy and Woody Michleb, Jorge Joao, Daniel Di Tomasso and John Paul Colombo appearing on stage. WHAT: The show featured a mix of demonstration and inspiration, with some of the biggest industry brands, including L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Redken, Wella, Nioxin, Sebastian, American Crew and Revlon Professional. WHEN & WHERE: April 1 and 2 in Toronto. PHOTOS: JILLIAN WOOD AND VALERIE LAM
salonmagazine.ca
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EVENTS
Schwarzkopf Professional Hairapalooza WHO: Julie Eros from Abstract Salon took home first place for the New Talent competition, while Robin Bacon from Giovanni & Perri salon took home first place in the Professional category. Alesandro Cavallo from Cavros Hair Studio took home first place in the men’s competition. WHAT: Schwarzkopf Professional’s first Hairapalooza competition of the year kicked off with an exciting presentation of Schwarzkopf’s Essential Looks collection for spring 2012. Stylists then competed in the New Talent and Professional Competitions, where they had 45 minutes to create a rockin’ haircut on stage for a big crowd of onlookers, while listening and dancing to the latest hits. New this year was the men’s [3D]mension Makeover competition, where stylists were given only 20 minutes to complete their look on a male model. WHEN & WHERE: February 26 in Barrie, Ont. PHOTOS: JILLIAN WOOD
America’s Beauty Show WHO: More than 50,000 salon professionals. WHAT: Incredible presentations were put on by some of the biggest names in the industry, including Nick Arrojo, Beth Minardi, Angelo Seminara, Tabatha Coffey, Wayne Grund, Rocky Vitelli, Leonel Rodriguez and Mark Hayes. Canadian platform artists who presented included Timothy Switzer, showing off his take on Goldwell’s new Fascinature collection, Daniel Di Tomasso for Sebastian, and Rossa Jurenas and Jean Sebastian Lacombe for Schwarzkopf Professional on SKP’s new stage. The show floor featured booths from some of the biggest brands, including American Crew, FHI Heat, Kenra, Keratin Complex, Moroccanoil, Pravana, Schwarzkopf Professional, Sebastian Professional, TIGI and many more. Some new and exciting brands included ONE, It Factor and Neuma Beauty, to name a few. WHEN & WHERE: March 3 to 5 in Chicago. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BABAK
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salonmagazine.ca
Software has proven that integrating software into a salon or spa improves productivity, retail sales and profitability. They are so committed to the “business side of beauty” that they’ve sponsored three awards for the industry; the NAHA Salon Master Business Award (MBA), the Contessa Salon Business Excellence Award and the Marketing spAward. Are you looking to exceed your own expectations? Then partner with the software company that understands the beauty business, Milano Software.
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EVENTS
free your mind Joico/ISO Education Cruise WHO: Damien Carney presented surreal, avant-garde styles, while ISO’s Ben Mollin and Sonya Landon created fun, textured looks. Sue Pemberton was on hand to share colouring techniques, while celebrity colourist George Papanikolas offered his insights into star hairstyles. Tabatha Coffey had no trouble swaying with the ship in her sky-high Louboutin boots and her no-nonsense tips on how to brand yourself. WHAT: Joico/ISO’s seven-day Piidea Education Destination Caribbean cruise mixed training and travel for more than 700 hairstylists from across the country. WHEN & WHERE: February 12 to 19 in Nassau, St. Thomas, San Juan and Gran Turk. PHOTOS COURTESY OF JOICO AND ISO
Polish • Colour Gel Make-Up • X-TAME
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RESPECT
THE
TECH Toronto’s World Mastercard Fashion Week
We Do!
WHO: Jorge Joao led a team of stylists from Redken salons, and Melissa Forrest led the Essie team with a full force as hard as nails. WHAT: Thirty-one designers, five days, one runway. Unveiling the hottest Canadian collections for fall 2012, fashionistas came gliding into town on sky-high heels and wearing striking colours to do what our industry loves: look. Salon got backstage—and met some very talented stylists and nail technicians—to find out what hair and nails were completing the outfits. WHEN & WHERE: March 12 to 16 in Toronto. PHOTOS: VALERIE LAM AND ESSIE
Professional Education Professional Products Professional Support
www.LCN.ca
www.lcn.ca salonmagazine.ca
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EVENTS
Backstage at Lucian Matis WHO: The Schwarzkopf Professional team, led by lead hairstylist Paul Pereira of Solo Bace Salon. WHAT: Canadian designer Lucian Matis’ F/W 2012 runway show. WHEN & WHERE: March 12 in Toronto. SOUNDBITE: “Many of Lucian’s pieces included lace or feathers–-lots of great texture–-so we wanted to incorporate this with the hair. We took the classic chignon, which is very trendy this season, and added some edginess to it with braiding for texture,” says Pereira. He also integrated a centre part, which is another of the season’s hair trends. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BISERKA LIVAJA
MAY/JUNE 2012 EDMONTON ABA May 6 & 7 Northlands Expo Centre Edmonton Info: abacanada.com PREMIERE ORLANDO June 2 – 4 Orlando Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Fla. Info: premiereorlandoshow.biz INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW—LAS VEGAS June 9 – 11 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas Info: ibslasvegas.com INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS, COSMETICS AND SPA CONFERENCE June 9 –11 Las Vegas Convention Centre Las Vegas Info: iecsc.com/las-vegas HAIRVOLUTION: REVOLUTION OF HAIR FEATURING NICK ARROJO June 17 & 18, 2012 Scotiabank Convention Centre Niagara Falls, Ont. Info: academycanada@kpss-hair.ca HAIRVOLUTION: REVOLUTION OF HAIR FEATURING NICK ARROJO June 24 & 25, 2012 River Rock Casino Richmond, B.C. Info: academycanada@kpss-hair.ca
HAIR CLASSES
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GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Education for Euronatural Hair Extensions; in-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327
NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor
AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892
LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings
CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466
STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997 S salonmagazine.ca
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Pages 76-77 SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 21 Issue 07 salonmagazine.ca
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LAST LOOK
What Creates a “Wow” Retail Experience?
VIA FORBES.COM
Fast Company’s
2011 TEN MOST INNOVATIVE COMPANIES in Retail
1. GROUPON 2. TRADER JOE’S
3. MARKS &
SPENCER
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To see more about each company and why they were selected, go to www.fastcompany.com.
CELEBRITY
FAVES
Melina Kanakaredes Curlisto Control Gel
98
salon > may+june 12
Kelly Ripa Oscar Blandi’s Olio Di Jasmine Hair Serum
1 2 3 4 5
When Cosmopolitan asked 100 celebrities to name the beauty product they couldn’t live without, we couldn’t resist a peek at which pro hair products stars are walking out of the salon with.
engagement
Being polite, genuinely caring and interested in helping, acknowledging and listening.
expediting
Being sensitive to customers‘ time on long checkout lines, being proactive in helping to speed the shopping process.
problem recovery
Helping resolve and compensate for problems, upgrading quality and ensuring complete satisfaction.
executional excellence
Patiently explaining and advising, checking stock, helping to find products, having product knowledge and providing unexpected product quality.
brand experience
Exciting store design and atmosphere, consistently great product quality, making customers feel they’re special and that they always get a deal.
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Tori Spelling
Emily VanCamp
Biosilk Silk Therapy Drops
Kérastase Resistance Bain Volumactive Volumizing Shampoo
“We’re particularly impressed by the power of social media to drive consumer purchases. For instance, we know that women spend 30 per cent more time on social media sites than men do. Some of our best customers are taking advantage of this behaviour by connecting with their clients via Facebook and Twitter to extend the salon relationship into the social sphere.” Reuben Carranza, managing director, P&G Professional
“Canadian shoppers cite ‘getting a deal’ as a more important part of brand experience than do shoppers in the United States. Canadians also put more emphasis on an exciting store atmosphere or design.” “The Elements of a Great Shopping Experience,” Forbes.com
salonmagazine.ca
PHOTOS: CRESTOCK
In 2009, the Retail Council of Canada teamed with Wharton’s Jay H. Baker Retailing Initiative to research the experiences of 1,006 shoppers in Canada and the United States. Here are the five areas they found that make an impact:
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