Salon Magazine, May 2019

CU T T I NG I T S HORT

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

T H E G OL DE N HOU R GI V E I T YOU R BE ST S HOT

The Business of Inspiration M AY 2 0 1 9

salonmagazine.ca

FOR OVER A CENTURY, HAIR ARTISTS HAVE BEEN OUR PARTNERS AND AT THE HEART OF WHO WE ARE. THANK YOU FOR YOUR PARTNERSHIP IN ELEVATING OUR INDUSTRY EVERYDAY. “ The L’Oréal group was founded with a single tube of colour from L’Oréal Professionnel. Since that moment, the entire brand is dedicated to beauty. To me, it’s the only way to master the art of hair, by being focused and giving your 100%. I can relate to this value on the personal and the professional level.

This is the reason why I can and will always rely on the L’Oréal Professionnel expertise.”

Véronique Beaupré, Master Stylist @localb_mtl Owner, Local B - Montréal, QC

“The only brand that took us seriously as new business owners was L’Oréal Professionnel. They could see our vision, they were there to support us and they were excited about it. L’Oréal Professionnel feels like a family to us. It’s that sense of having that community.”

Michael Gibson @michaelgibsonhair & Calvyn Cass @calvyncasshair

Owners, Brush Salon - @brushsalonyvr - Vancouver, BC

“I can’t really explain, but I felt loved. I felt loved and appreciated, and most importantly supported by my new business partner.

Today, I really feel like I’m part of a larger family. My team feels that as well. The brand did a really great job at bringing the L’Oréal Professionnel family into my salon, and bringing my salon into its family.”

Ramsey Sayah @dearhairdresser.ca

Owner, Texture Hair Salon - Ottawa, ON

WE WANT YOU TO STAND OUT AND MASTER YOUR PROFESSION. JOIN THE FAMILY.

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ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand.

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You’re not alone! At Goldwell we believe in the power of color, but more importantly in the power of colorists like you!

Let’s make 2019 the most colorful year ever.

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May 2019

36 F E AT U R E

Bobbing in Style

Say so long to those longer locks! The “it” look for women this season is all about the bob. And from blunt to “the cool girl,” we’re breaking it down with cutting and styling tips from the experts.

38 F E AT U R E

48 NICOLA SMYTH, NICOLA SMYTH AWA R D W I N N I N G HAIR , U.K

Take Your Best Shot!

Find out why investing in photoshoots can reap rewards that go far beyond competitions.

41 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

“Being a hairdresser is about communication.

If clients feel that you care, they’ll come back to see you.”

Caterina Di Biase; Nicola Smyth; Marc Antoni Artistic Team; Stephanie & Ashley Gamble; Robin Bacon; Chrystofer Benson; Anna Pacitto

—TREVOR SORBIE, AWARD-WINNING BRITISH HAIRSTYLIST AND FOUNDER OF MY NEW HAIR ON THE COVER: HAIR: STEPHANIE & ASHLEY GAMBLE PHOTO: RICHARD MILES

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 9

12

Editor’s Letter

14

Publisher’s Note

16 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Find out what’s trending on digital.

19

46 CONTE SSA 2019 F I N A L I S T, I N T E R N AT I O N A L HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEA R , C H RYS T O F E R BENSON, CBC C H RYS T O F E R BENSON COLLECTI V E , S O U T H W E B E R , U T.

58 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Yoonmi Kim

Discover how this Torontobased nail artist brought her inspiration to life in her Contessa finalist collection.

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Get a jump on summer hair with the latest in care, colour and styling product launches to have you all set for the season.

60 P RO F I L E

Giving It All She’s Got

Lisa Dinh shares her inspirational story of how she risked it all to live her dream of being a success salon owner.

62 INTER IORS

Creating a Community

Find out how this Calgarybased salon has created a second-home for its clients.

64 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Scoop

66 SA LON STOR IE S

At the Heart of Hairstylists

An emotional heart-to-heart with the legendary Trevor Sorbie and Montreal-based hairstylist, Lyette Belanger.

42 STEPH A N I E AND ASHLEY GA M B L E , ASHLEY GA M B L E , U . K .

10 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

MATTE FINISH

HIGH STYLE

MATTE

CLAY

BY AMERICAN CREW

CONNECT WITH AMERICAN CREW FOR THE LATEST IN MEN’S GROOMING AMERICANCREW.COM

@AMERICANCREWCANADA

AMERICANCREWCANADA

FOR INQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980 © 2019 AMERICAN CREW. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Editor’s Letter — BIO SCULPTURE is the original curable Gel system with chip-free, glossy nail colour that lasts three weeks and soaks off easily leaving the natural nail undamaged.

EVO is a Gel Polish by Bio Sculpture that boasts an Oxygenating Base infused with Vitamin A and Vitamin E. Evo is suitable for quick overlays but can also be used to lengthen and reinforce the nail.

How do you keep your creative ideas flowing freely?

Are there new ways of doing business that have helped you in your career?

When working in a creative industry like ours, it’s normal to feel stuck every once in a while. Some days it’s juggling a slammed schedule with back-toback clients that causes this feeling to manifest. The important thing to remember if you find yourself backpedalling: Actively explore new options, make an effort to push forward, and do your best to not instinctively lean on what’s familiar.

When we put together this issue, we wanted to think about business in a fresh way. It’s easy to dream about doing things differently, but setting goals and putting a plan into action are the building blocks you need to get there. With that in mind, we’ve loaded our pages with ideas on how to refuel your passion for what you do right now.

Case in point: Giving you reasons for planning a photoshoot that go beyond the final images, and which short haircuts will be most in demand now and in the months to come.

Whether you’ve been a salon owner for 25 years or are just getting comfortable behind the chair, our goal for this issue is to help you rethink the way you do business. Plus, Contessa entry time is coming up quickly—the deadline is August 6—and we can’t wait to see what you’re creating this year!

BIO SCULPTURE offers over 235 colours, various specialized nail art gels and a variety of options to add length and strength to nails.

BIO SCULPTURE follows an ethical approach to product development and manufacturing and is committed to providing products that are cruelty-free and vegan-friendly.

BIOSCULPTURENAILS.COM | l-877-424-6435 12 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Rediscover Your Passion

W E

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For stunning results you have to see to believe: • 80% less breakage* • 5X stronger hair* • Increased & more even lift** • Evens porosity for better color deposit • Maintains over 90% of color vibrancy***

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BEFORE

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 4 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Paul C

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Greg Robins greg@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

Going the Distance

Laura Dunphy Publisher

14 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

Subscription Rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included.

Canadian orders only, must be to same location US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

Recently I stumbled across a great story in the New York Times about the movie Rocky—Sylvester Stallone’s breakout movie. This rags-to-riches inspirational story, in which Stallone was an out of work actor who came up with the idea for Rocky.

Today, it’s still an amazing story of inspiration; not only of the underdog boxer but also of Stallone himself who, as struggling underdog actor, pushed through to get the movie produced.

In the New York Times Stallone explained his intention with the movie—and it wasn’t necessarily for awards. As he said, “It will still show that an unknown quantity, a totally unmarketable person, can produce a diamond in the rough, a gem.”

Stallone recognized that he wasn’t the only one who hadn’t had a break in their chosen occupation.

This completely resonated with me because there are so many hairstylists with similar challenges. Inspiration plays such a critical role in one’s journey. It’s what pulls us up, instills drive, and simply puts the gas in our engines. You can be a talented hairstylist or nail technician, however I believe that once you find the inspiration it pushes you to excel even more.

Stallone’s comment about being a diamond in the rough should be a battle cry to find our industry’s diamonds in the rough. For all salon owners and managers searching for and cultivating the talent of those little gems, having an open mind is one of the most important ways of giving back to the industry. Speaking of inspiration and talent—read our profile on Toronto’s Lisa Dinh (p. 60), a young hairstylist and salon owner who shares her own inspiring success story. Enjoy this issue of Salon, and we hope it inspires you to greatness.

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

REDISCOVER CAVIAR ANTI-AGING® PROFESSIONAL STYLING Same great formulas, now with an elevated look. www.alternahaircare.com

salonmagazine.ca ➣

Styling the Stars We got the inside scoop from Christian Wood, celebrity hairstylist for Wella Professionals, on how he gets stars ready for the red carpet.

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Inspiration Station Check out SalonMagazine.ca’s collection archives to find #hairinspo for your next photoshoot.

16 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

So You Think You Can Style?

Congratulations to Catherine Allard from Montreal, the winner of our latest So You Think You Can Style? “Ice Queens” contest.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca to learn more about what inspired this winning look.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: CATHERINE ALLARD, MAKEUP: CATHERINE LAVOIE, STYLING: JEREMIE COTÉ, PHOTO: GIL PERRON; HAIR: LORI ZABEL, MAKEUP: MARIE-LAURE LARRIEU & GWENDOLINE CARCALY, STYLING: PASCAL ET JEREMIE, PHOTOS: BABAK; INSTAGRAM/GETTY; THINKSTOCK

Are you in search of a new job or looking for new talent?

Check out our job board to find or post a job.

➣

Career Central

THE STORY OF AN ORIGINAL Moroccanoil Treatment delivers unparalleled shine, softness and nourishment. The original all-in-one essential that stands the test of time.

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MAKE YOUR BLOND HAIR SHINE silver shine is the key for healthy and shiny blond hair, for bright grey or white hair and to enhance the purity of flawless lightening.

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PHOTO CREDIT: HAIR: GHD EDUCATION TEAM (JO ROBERTSON, DAFYDD THOMAS, AMY SONTAE, ZOE IRWIN, LUKE BENSON, PATRICK WILSON, LEIGHANNE REGAN & CHARLOTTE MENSAH); MAKEUP: CLAIRE EVANS; STYLING: BOO ATTWOOD; PHOTO: JACK EAMES

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WITH SPRING IN FULL SWING, WE’VE ROUNDED UP THE LAUNCHES YOU’LL WANT (AND NEED) TO GET READY TO TRANSITION INTO SUMMER.

Industrial chic meets avantgarde glam in this global education shoot by ghd.

From braids and weaving to curls and waves, this collection offers a hearty dose of style innovation and inspiration for clients from all sets.

To see more from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 19

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Hair Repair It’s time to get prescriptive care with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new BC Bonacure Fibre Clinix.

Get smoother hair with Redken’s Frizz Dismiss.

For hair that’s in need of an SOS this season, here’s the solution. After relaunching their BC Bonacure range with skincare-inspired ingredients last year, Schwarzkopf Professional has unveiled its new BC Bonacure Fibre Clinix Tribond Shampoo and BC Bonacure Fibre Clinix Tribond Treatment (for fine or coarse hair).

Taking repair to the next level, triple bonding and C21 technology restructures and creates 3D bonds within the hair fibre and resurfaces and seals hair porosity within the cuticle.

But that’s not all: This in-salon service empowers hairstylists to create a customized care regimen for clients with a choice of five BC Bonacure Fibre Clinix Boosters, which are added to the treatment mask to target specific hair needs, from breakage repair and colour protection to hydration, volume and smoothness.

As the temperatures rise, it’s likely your hairstyles will, too. This six-piece line contains sustainably sourced babassu oil for nourishing and conditioning the scalp and hair. The Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask are sodium-chloride and sulphate free, and the Anti-Static Oil Mist, Instant Deflate and Rebel Tame are leave-in stylers designed for all hair types.

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MAN UP

Get to know Sebastian’s new Seb Man. SEB MAN FEATURES FRESH BERGAMOT AND WARM AMBER MIXED WITH A HINT OF PEPPERCORN FOR A WOODY, ORIENTINSPIRED, SPICY SCENT.

The brand is adding some major manpower to its portfolio with its first-ever range of care, styling and grooming products created for the modern man. Designed for millennial and generation Z men who refuse to be defined by the norm, Seb Man empowers men with multi-use products such as The Multi-Tasker, a three-in-one hair, body and beard wash, and The Groom, a grooming oil for the hair and beard.

Change Your Mind Discover how L’Oréal Professionnel’s Botanea is transforming the way you colour hair.

Think you can’t offer professional colour results while being environmentally conscious? Think again! This 100 per cent herbal and vegan hair colour features Pure Henna, Pure Indigo and Pure Cassia powders that are mixed with hot water to release a gentle, permanent colour without any lightening or damage to the hair. The results? A wide range of natural tones—from light blonde to dark brown—that blend greys and create a natural finish.

20 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

PHOTO: REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Hairlines — NEWS

FR IZZ OFF!

Ultraviolet*

@CNDCanada

Dimensional*

Psychedelic

Holographic

Aura

NEW BOLD COLORS.

Psychedelic

Psychedelic

CND, SHELLAC and VINYLUX are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail artist: Tamara DiLullo. *Ultraviolet and Dimensional are available only for CND™ Vinylux™. **CND™ SHELLAC™ and CND™ VINYLUX

cnd.com

Shock this summer with urban shades.

**

CHOICE AWARDS

READER’S

WINNER 2018

C R E W L OV E

Hairlines — NEWS

Congrats to American Crew's All-Star Challenge Canadian Winner!

After receiving thousands of entries from around the world, it’s official: The competition was fierce! Congratulations to Sandra Perovic of JD’s Barber Shop in Vancouver—one of 15 global finalists advancing to compete in the global competition on May 19. The big event is heading home to the brand’s birthplace (New York City) and with American Crew celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, it’s sure to be nothing short of spectacular!

And a special shout-out to Canada’s first runner-up Andrew Soares of Fiorio Square One in Mississauga, Ont., and second runner-up Fabrizio Perciballi of DelMonaco Hair Studio in Toronto.

Give hair some love from the inside out with Goldwell’s new Kerasilk Revitalize.

We’ll be honest: Scalp health isn’t sexy. But it’s important—especially when it comes to getting healthy hair. Goldwell is changing the way you think of scalp care with its new Kerasilk Revitalize.

Inspired by luxury skincare, the line includes a customizable in-salon service that’s designed to serve as a facial for the scalp.

Olivia Garden Ceramic + Ion High Performance Professional Hair Dryer Ceramic technology prevents heat damage and preserves shine

—

|

Removable air filter for easy cleaning

S TA N D C O R R E C T E D

Achieve your ideal colour (the first time!) with Wella’s colortango Toners.

These toners are applied after prelightening to neutralize unwanted brassiness or warm up cooler tones.

Available in two warm and two cool shades, the toners have a creamy consistency and are easily spreadable with no dripping. Providing lifting and toning in one step, toning just got a whole lot easier!

| | Powerful yet lightweight 1875watt motor speeds up drying time

—

“It has the power to dry hair fast while sealing in moisture with a smooth, frizz-free finish. It weighs only 14 ounces, so hairstylists won’t have sore arms and shoulders from blow-drying at the end of a long work day.”

— MANDY KINN, EDUCATOR FOR OLIVIA GARDEN

22 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Ionic generator locks in moisture while reducing frizz

Two speed settings, three heat settings and a cool shot button

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: GOLDWELL, AMERICAN CREW, DAVINES, JOICO, OLIVIA GARDEN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Scalp Support

T O O L B OX

Shoot for the Stars!

PRO TIP CHECK OUT THE LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHERS ON SALONMAGAZINE.CA, WHICH LISTS WHETHER OR NOT THE PHOTOGRAPHERS TRAVEL OR ARE STUDIOBASED.

Pace Yourself “Don’t do too much in one day. With my clients, I notice that the best work comes from people who are focused on less models in one day. I find that their creative juices are capable of doing a lot more focused work when it comes to doing maybe three or four models a day—and that’s with assistants and a team around you. Sometimes, when people try to take on too much with five or six or even seven models in a day, it starts to get thin. So you may nail two or three looks and then have two or three models that are just OK or may not come out at all.” — Giancarlo Intini, Toronto Know (and Follow) the Rules “It’s better to work with someone who knows the ins and outs of the rules and is fully aware of what they are permitted to do for you. Hiring a photographer who doesn’t know the drill can cost you your entry and a lot of time and money if you’re disqualified for something as simple as not being familiar with the rules and technical specifications.” — Paula Tizzard Don't Stress the Small Stuff “When you’re shooting hair, you need to shoot with retouching in mind. We know there are rules and guidelines about that—you don’t [and shouldn’t] need to build a total hairstyle in Photoshop. But that being said, when you’re shooting photography in the hair world, you know there are going to be errant hairs or some beauty imperfections that can be cleaned up in Photoshop. Just keep in mind that the hairstyle should be at its best potential while in front of the camera first.” — Giancarlo Intini

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SEE MORE FROM THIS COLLECTION

BY ANGELO SEMINARA AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA

V I E W F RO M T H E T O P

Why this new Davines demi colour is a total game-changer.

They’ve done it again! Davines has launched View, their new demi-permanent colour system with acid pH that’s formulated with 88 to 93 per cent naturally originated ingredients and 95 to 99 biodegradable ingredients. Designed to create strong, shiny hair, View contains 40 tone-on-tone shades and one gloss.

And just like many of their other products, the colour is housed in recyclable, eco-friendly-produced plastic bottles.

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Location, Location, Location “The stylist has to decide if they need a photographer to come to them, or if they are in a position to shoot in the photographer’s studio and city. Some photographers travel and others don’t.

Expect that you’ll need a much higher budget if you’re bringing a photographer to your salon. You will have to pay travel expenses, flights, hotels, equipment rental, etc., in addition to their normal creative fees.” — Paula Tizzard, SOHO Studios, London, Ont.

Hairlines — NEWS

If the idea of hiring a professional photographer sounds overwhelming, breathe easy. We asked two Contessa-winning photographers to share their tips for mastering your Contessa photoshoot.

Power Colour Heat things up this season with Joico’s new LumiShine PowerHouse Reds.

The days of faded-out red colour are long gone, thanks to Joico’s LumiShine PowerHouse Reds range. With 14 permanent and demi-permanent colours, the shades contain the brand’s J5 Fade Resistant technology, featuring P5 Dye, Quadramine Complex, BondBuilding Argiplex and Moringa Seed Oil to lock in colour while preventing fading from daily environmental stressors and UV rays. The results?

Vibrant, long-lasting reds that are shiny, healthy and strong.

GET MORE TIPS FROM THESE EXPERT PHOTOGRAPHERS AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 23

➣ NEED A LIFT?

Hairlines — NEWS

Take your levels to new heights with Pravana’s Pure Light Ultra Lightener.

For a growing number of clients, it’s all about the blonder, the better. Powered by the brand’s Reunite Mending Technology, Pravana’s new Pure Light Ultra Lightener allows you to lift up to nine levels while depositing amino acids and plant-derived polymers to hair, thereby strengthening and mending the cuticle to increase softness and shine.

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Ready? Set? Style!

Find out how these three new KMS Style Primers can give your hairstyles a fighting chance this season.

ADDVOLUME Style Primer Plump up hair with this volumizing primer that transforms the look and feel of fine hair.

MOISTREPAIR Style Primer Rebalance hair’s moisture level while improving its elasticity and repairing surface damage.

Blonde Bombshell

TAMEFRIZZ Style Primer Revive overstressed hair with this deeply nourishing and smoothing primer.

This six-piece care range is customizable for all blondes and uses skincare-inspired ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and Edelweiss flower to hydrate and protect hair. The line also contains ultraviolet neutralizers to correct undertones for a longer-lasting bespoke blonde.

24 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

PHOTO: PRAVANA, KMS, KÉRASTASE

Give clients the royal treatment with Kérastase’s Blond Absolu.

NEW!

Sea Extend® Ultimate ColorCare®

Seals In Color. Seals Out Heat.

NO sulfates. NO parabens. aquage.com

Available at select professional beauty distributors across Canada:

Hairlines — NAILS

M AY F L OW E R S

C L E A R LY C O O L

Bio Sculpture’s Liquid Glass is taking nail art to the next level.

Special Effect

It’s undeniable that 3D nails are everywhere this season. A trend that first took flight at fashion week, it’s made its way into salons around the world, enabling clients to wear Instaworthy nail looks on the regular. But creating these intricate designs hasn’t always been easy for nail technicians…until now!

Bio Sculpture’s Liquid Glass is a high viscosity nail art gel used to sculpt 3D nail art designs.

So, whether you want to create crystal clear designs (for the glass nails trend, for example) or something more colourful, Liquid Glass is intermixable with Bio Sculpture’s High Pigment Gels, making it easy to craft a range of designs.

“Liquid Glass is a nail artist’s dream because it’s a completely versatile product to have in your tool kit,” says Erica Nieuwenhuis, president and CEO of Bio Sculpture Canada. “We are always impressed by what Bio Sculpture educators and nail technicians can create with the tools we put in their hands, and Liquid Glass is no exception!”

Mimic the look of gel nails with CND Vinylux Gel-Like Effect Top Coat.

Let’s face it: Not all clients have embraced the longwear and shine offered by gel nail services. With that in mind, this new plumping top coat allows you to create the look of gel nails (including their high-gloss finish) with a longwear yet easy to remove lacquer polish. Thanks to Pro Light Technology, this top coat provides nails with a protective coating without LED or UV curing.

Artistic Nail Design “Glow Big or Go Home” this season with this bold pink crème shade from the So Fly collection.

2

3

Hitting It Big

Morgan Taylor Reach for the skies with the bright pink crème Tickle My Keys from the Rocketman collection— inspired by the upcoming Elton John biopic!

In celebration of Marian Newman’s book, Nailed It., we’re taking a look back at some of this famous nail technician’s most iconic editorial nail creations.

1 For Gareth Pugh’s autumn/winter 2016 show, Newman created a matte nude mani with long, pointy talons on the index and middle fingers to symbolize this warrior princess’ weapons.

2 When the wardrobe stylist was a noshow, Newman took on the role of stylist and nail tech in this jewelry shoot for the December 2004 issue of British Vogue.

26 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

3 Published in the July 2016 issue of Vogue Japan, these pink nails may appear to be understated with just a hint of sparkle on the tips, but the chrome undernails make it next level.

P.S. Get to know more about Marian Newman by reading our Q&A on page 29!

LCN Embrace your higher powers with Aphrodite, a velvet rose matte shade from the Oh My Goddess collection.

PHOTOS: CND, BIO SCULPTURE, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, MORGAN TAYLOR, LCN, ALEKSANDRA KINGO, MATTHEW SHAVE, BARBARA DONNINELLI

CND Shellac Add some dimension to your nail art with Aura, a decadent shade from the Prismatic collection.

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

1

Bio Sculpture Essentials: The Collection has us feeling pretty in Pink Marshmallow.

Discover SEB MAN, a complete range of hair care, styling and grooming products, for men who refuse to be categorized.

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GET TO KNOW THESE THREE INTERNATIONAL MAVENS THAT ARE “PAINTING” THE WAY FOR NAIL ARTISTS AND ENTHUSIASTS.

Divas of (Nail) Design

The Adventurist: Eleonora Movsisian, Co-Founder & CEO, Nail Sunny, Russia Co-founded with her sister Arina, the familyowned salon’s out-of-the-box nail designs have gone viral—seen all over social media and TV.

Why did you want to be in the nail industry?

We became a unique nail art salon chain because no one in Russia had a great nail art salon with both luxurious quality and low prices. My sister and I don’t think you need to choose. You can have it all.

Our first salon was opened in 2013. Now we have 10 salons in Moscow and 1 in Los Angeles.

Many of your team’s nail art designs are very unique and unlike anything we’ve seen before! How do you come up with the ideas?

Nobody wants to see a boring French 28 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

manicure. People want to have fun! They want a show, so we thought “Let's give them a show!”

Many of the nail designs have gone viral, appearing online and on TV. What does that feel like?

It’s SO exciting! We didn't expect anything like this! It’s unreal.

That's what happens when you work really hard! Our tips are: Never give up, stay strong, go after your dreams and never surrender. Be unique!

How do you work with your nail artists on these ideas?

Our nail artists are licensed nail technicians and are very talented! My sister and I create exclusive ideas and our nail artists bring them to life.

Our goal is to provide high quality services to our clients. There’s no doubt, Nail Sunny will surprise the world!

The Fashionista: Tamara Di Lullo, Owner, Candy Nail Bar, Montreal This Canadian nail artist’s work has been featured in fashion magazines and brand campaigns. And as an education ambassador for CND, she’s even worked backstage at Toronto Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week!

Tell us what it’s like collaborating with fashion designers on the nail looks for Fashion Week.

I think the most important part is to use something that wouldn’t take away from the collection. For example, for ZOFF/ Alan Anderson [for fall/winter 2019 at Toronto Fashion Week], there were so many colours and the jewelry was so ornate, we didn’t want to do something that would compete with it. For this, we did a nude shade on a long, almondshaped nail, which is our classic runway nail that we do for Fashion Week. It’s elegant and adds length to the hands and it makes the nail beds look long.

For the Kiki de Montparnasse show, [the designer] wanted nails that were in keeping with the femininity of her collection. I designed the nails, so I looked at the collection and did an overlay of a fine black lace, in a lacy French-style, to create a lingerie look on the nails. We also created a signature [design] on a few accent nails, because you don’t need to have nail art that’s too heavy. It has to go along with the style of the person or the style of the collection you’re designing it for.

How does working at Toronto Fashion Week compare to New York Fashion Week (NYFW)?

It’s nice because [Toronto] is smaller and more intimate, so it’s fun. [Spring/ Summer 2019 at NYFW] was my first season. It was crazy! A lot of fun. I got to do nails for Libertine and I worked on a lot of other shows, as well. I was able to go backstage and work with some of the best.

I submitted some designs for [Fall/ Winter 2019], too.

PHOTOS: NAIL SUNNY, TAMARA DI LULLO, ALEKSANDRA KINGO, LAURENCE KING PUBLISHING

Hairlines — NAILS

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What has it been like to work on so many cool projects?

It’s been a dream come true. Last year for me was exceptional. I was invited to do so many cool things that a “newbie” wouldn’t typically get to do.

I did [founder of CND] Jan Arnold’s nails for the CND Shellac Luxe event [in Toronto]. That was amazing! I did a shoot in Los Angeles for NAILS Magazine. I’ve been doing editorial work for probably five years now. It’s just fun.

It’s really been a great year.

TO READ MORE FROM OUR INTERVIEW WITH MARIAN NEWMAN, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA

What else are you hoping to venture into next?

I would personally like to do more education. More and more people are asking me to do tutorials and nail-art classes, so hopefully that’s something that I’ll be introduced to shortly.

The OG: Marian Newman, Industry Nail Expert, U.K. From editorial photoshoots to fashion shows, this British nail technician’s work has been seen around the world. She has recently published a book, Nailed It., which is a collection of her most memorable nail creations.

Win It!

Calling all nail enthusiasts! Want to win a SIGNED copy of Marian Newman’s new book, Nailed It.? Check out our Instagram (@salonmagazine) to find out how!

What has been your favourite project that you’ve worked on?

There are so many! My very first fashion show (Givenchy Couture AW97) needed the creation of very long spiral nails.

A series of projects I worked on with Lady Gaga. Both of these are relevant as, without understanding of the products I used, I wouldn’t have been able to work out how to make those weird nails.

Of course, working on my book, Nailed It., is a very special project! I started in two industry sectors that were, largely, unaccepting (fashion and beauty) so it has been quite a “journey” remembering and reliving all those tumultuous years.

In your book, you mention that you don’t like to look at work by other nail artists. Why is that?

In the job that I’ve had for 20+ years I’ve had to be original. This is unlike working in a salon where clients see nail designs that they would like. To look at the work of others it is seeing something that’s already been done, and you can’t “unsee” it. In so many instances I have had to come up with originality, so I look elsewhere.

You built your career in a time before social media became so prevalent.

What does that mean to you?

Social media has changed the world. For the good and not so good! Unfortunately, some view the number of “followers” or “likes” as being a benchmark ignoring how skilled, original or how long and hard an individual has worked. So often massive followers bare no relation to the talent of the person.

Also, even when you think you are being original someone else in the world has already done it. What is lovely is when there is a design that someone else has done and the person posting the image has the grace to credit the person with an “inspired by….”

What are some of the things that nail technicians today can do to help them improve their craft and advance their career?

Keep learning and keep an open mind.

There is such a resistance to learning today.

I hear far too often “I’ve done it like this for years and never had a problem.” My answer to that is: “Well, it’s time to look at things in a different way then instead of doing things by rote!” It’s time to keep up with the massive advances in research. So many still do not know what and where the cuticle is or still believe in a water soak manicure!

Keep up!

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 29

THE PENDULUM IS SWINGING. FOR SUMMER 2019, THE ONTREND SHADES OF BLONDE ARE MOVING TOWARDS HONEY TONES. HERE’S HOW TO CREATE THEM.

Golden Honey Too Cool Has the cool factor gone too far? “I think we’ve taken the silver ash blonde trend to the point that overtoned hair with tinted shampoo and conditioner is a recognizable colour,” says Crystal Brown, a L’Oréal Professional colour ambassador and technical director at Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton, Alta. Looking forward to Spring/Summer 2020, Brown says there’s a strong prediction of gold being an “it colour” and so it makes sense that we may start seeing richer blondes this year.

“Clients sometimes don’t realize it, but icy blondes are actually darker than a sunny blonde, which can make their complexion sallow,” explains Roch Lemay, an international educator for Davines and master colourist at Pure Salon in Montreal.

“These new buttery blondes are much more luminous and create a softer skin tone.”

30 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Lighten Up! To achieve a beautiful and luminous blonde, hair lightener is your bestie. “It really is the lightening process that’s going to create the base for that rich buttery blonde,” says Lemay. But you need to make sure you’re lightening hair to a level 10 slowly, using a 20-volume developer, and letting it work its magic for 30 to 40 minutes. “If you go faster you’re going to burn the oxygen too quickly, which will make the colour have an orange pigment and will ultimately burn the hair,” he cautions.

“With all good blondes, these shades are best achieved when you’re working with multi-tones,” reminds Brown. “Typically, this means a base shade with lighter and brighter highlights when all-over colour is required or when working with someone’s natural base, it means adding highlights or balayage.”

TEXTE: YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTOS: HAIR: JESSICA NEIL & MARY GEOGHEGAN, KH HAIR, U.K., MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, STYLING: CLARE FRITH, PHOTO: JACK EAMES; HAIR: NIKITA FISHER FOR JAMIE STEVENS USING MATRIX HAIRCARE, MAKEUP: DOEY DRUMMOND, STYLING: JAMIE STEVENS, PHOTO: JENS WIKHOLM

Hairlines — COLOUR

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Do it for the ’Gram!

To educate your client and make yourself known for the gorgeous rich blondes you’re creating, use words like “gold,” “golden,” “warm,” “bright” and “sunny” when describing your summer 2019 array of shades.

“Avoid the word ‘yellow’, as it’s not something your client typically wants.”

— Crystal Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador and micro influencer @colorbycrystalbrown

At-Home Maintenance “For my clients to take care of the perfect butter blonde I’ve created for them, I customize an Alchemic Conditioner from Davines that they can take home. These are direct pigments with a conditioner base that I mix and I add just a touch of violet to give a hint of light to their new rich blonde hair. The great thing about customizing a colour-protection conditioner is that you’re the only one who can mix it for them.”

— Roch Lemay, Davines international educator

The Right Tone “We shouldn’t talk about toning without remembering to first talk about lightening,” says Brown. There is a big difference between lightening enough to produce a shimmering white-gold blonde, and lightening to just undercoat yellow and trying to tone that. “Your visual cue is to lighten hair enough so that it looks like the inside of a banana. Not lightening far enough will leave you and your client unhappy with hair that has too many yellow undertones.” Lemay agrees and adds that to create warmer blondes you’ll need to “move away from anything that’s too ashy or icy.”

“Warm beige toners are also a great choice,” says Brown. “Something that’s a very light soft gold (or golden violet) blonde, and using a deeper intense gold before sheering it out quite a bit with a clear.

The result is a pale, pure, shimmering golden blonde that looks lush and expensive.”

Don’t forget that you’ll need to choose a toner to cut out the ash, so that rich, buttery blonde comes out. The idea is to have just a hint of violet that will softly subdue natural warmth, creating a slightly neutral-warm result.

“YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU’RE LIGHTENING HAIR TO A LEVEL 10 SLOWLY, USING A 20-VOLUME DEVELOPER, AND LETTING IT WORK ITS MAGIC FOR 30 TO 40 MINUTES. ANYTHING FASTER WILL BURN THE HAIR AND LEAVE AN ORANGE TONE.” - ROCH LEMAY, DAVINES INTERNATIONAL EDUCATOR

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 31

Skin Deep The days of men nonchalantly splashing some aftershave on their face and going about their business are long gone. Just as they’ve been paying more attention to their scalp health, discovering new hairstyling options and stepping up their grooming game, skincare is now on men’s radar.

The Influencer “Men are definitely more aware of what their hair and skin needs, and specialized skincare for them is a market that will be growing in the years to come,” says Simon Parent, CEO of the Canadian distributor Revolution & Style, which specializes in professional men's lines. “A salon or barbershop owner who is not prepared to offer more skincare products will see his or her male clientele drop for sure.”

“Much of this growing trend is coming from social media. It plays a huge part in beauty, style and fashion. Men now want to have beautiful, youthful skin, too. In 2017, some barbers started offering activated charcoal masks, and guys were immediately drawn to them,” says Tay Atelier, a Redken Brews educator, hairstylist and barber at The Beard & Hair Barbers inside Ego Salon in Brampton, Ont. “When you’re taking pictures, it’s not the back of the head we’re showing. Selfies and influencers have definitely played a big part in this men’s skincare wave,” adds Atelier. “We’re seeing more guy influencers promoting the benefits of a good skincare routine and the rest of us —even the average guy—wants to try it!”

The Key Products If you think it’s only soap and cleansing products clients will be looking for, think again. “It definitely goes beyond just cleaning,” says Atelier. “We’re moving towards very specific skincare products, such as moisturizers, anti-aging treatments, retinol32 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

New Service According to Atelier, threading for men (to give beards a cleaner edge) is likely to be the next big thing in barbershops. “By removing the hair bulb at the very edge of the beard, you can extend the look by three or four days. It’s a specialized service very common in the Middle East that men are starting to ask for here.”

Redken Brews Cleansing Bar A great intro product for any man’s skincare regimen, it's formulated for the male skin, balances its pH level, and leaves it smooth and refreshed.

American Crew Revitalizing Toner Tones and refreshes freshly-shaved skin while calming irritations and closing the pores, providing freshness and relief.

Vitaman Face Mud Masque Deep-cleansing, mineral-rich, removes unwanted impurities and reduces shine to leave skin looking clear and refreshed.

enhanced and mattifying products, too. We want our skin to feel softer, glow, and feel great.”

But it’s not only facial-specific items men are after. “People always forget about the neck, but that’s where some of the first tell-tale signs of aging start appearing,” says Atelier. “I remind my clients to focus on that area, too.”

“MEN HAVE BECOME DEMANDING WHEN IT COMES TO SKINCARE PRODUCTS. THEY NEED SPECIFIC PRODUCTS THAT ARE DIFFERENT FROM WHAT WOMEN USE. THEY WANT THEIR OWN UNIQUE REGIMENS AND RITUALS.” – SIMON PARENT, CEO OF REVOLUTION & STYLE

TEXTE: HAIR: GREGSON GASTAR, BG’S LOUNGE, ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, STYLING: SPACECOWBOY, PHOTO: GREGSON GASTAR; PHOTO: TK, REDKEN, AMERICAN CREW, VITAMAN

Hairlines — MEN

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IS MEN’S SKINCARE THE NEXT BIG THING FOR SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS? WE ASKED TWO PROS TO GIVE US THE SKINNY.

CND and BRISA are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

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Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

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SPRING INTO THE SEASON WITH OUR BEAUTY MUST-HAVES THAT ARE SURE TO KEEP YOUR LOOKS ON LOCK.

1 COPY AND PASTE Help hair’s memory with the Neuro Style Reshape, a blow-drying cream that makes restyling a cinch. 2 TRIPLE THEAT CND Vinylux Alluring Trilogy Top Coats in Matte, Pearl and Glitter are sure to elevate your nail art game this season—and beyond. 3 TWO IN ONE Go big or go home with Sexy Hair’s Big Sexy Hair Crème 2 Powder Play, a volumizing and texturizing hybrid that will take your styles to new heights. 4 CURL CURE Get shiny, defined curls with DevaCurl’s High Shine Multi-Benefit Oil, a lightweight spray that nourishes hair and provides a frizz-free finish. 5 ENRICHING EXPERIENCE Hydrate, define and smooth dry hair with Alterna’s Caviar Anti-Aging Replenishing Moisture Leave-In Smoothing Gelee.

34 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL C

Style Check

AMERICAN CREW IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE ALL-STAR CHALLENGE 2019 CANADA RESULTS!

CANADIAN CHAMPION SANDRA PEROVIC JD’s Barber Shop Vancouver, BC The Canadian Champion will enjoy an all-expense paid trip to New York City and complete with some of the best hairstylists in the world. The Global Champion takes home a $10,000 cash prize as well the ultimate bragging rights.

Good luck Sandra!

FIRST RUNNER UP ANDREW SOARES Fiorio Square One Mississauga, ON

SECOND RUNNER UP FABRIZIO PERCIBALLI DelMonaco Hair Studio Toronto, ON

We congratulate our finalists and thank all participants for entering the All-Star Challenge!

Have your tools and vision ready for the next challenge starting in fall 2019!

FOR INQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980 © 2019 AMERICAN CREW. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

AMERICANCREW.COM

@AMERICANCREWCANADA

AMERICANCREWCANADA

Bobbing in St It’s official: Bobs are back! As seen at fashion weeks and on awards season’s red carpets, here’s how to make this go-to style easy for any client to rock this season.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

With warmer weather often comes the urge for clients to chop off wintery locks and spring into summer with a new ’do. From blunt bobs to “the cool girl” cut, here’s how to get there with no regrets!

The Cool Girl Bob

From Dua Lipa to Hailey Baldwin, we’ve seen this more undone take on the bob gaining steam on social and love that it’s ideal for clients who prefer a more tousled, air-dried look.

CUT: “Section off the hair from ear to ear and cut a concave layering technique above the occipital bone.

What happens is, the hair through the bottom stays long, and the hair that would be in the middle of a ponytail—if they wanted to wear it back—would be short. Using a layering technique instead of a graduation technique helps deflate the shape instead of building volume in it.” — Antonio Quintieri, top stylist for Wella Professionals 36 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

STYLE: “Work with their natural texture and keep movement in the hair. If the client wants it straight, you have to be able to make it straight, but it’s really nice with waves because it’s softer.” — Daniel Benoit STYLE: “A lot of people are looking for something that will look good on them, but not only blow-dried one way. Sometimes clients just want to wash their hair, and a lot of curl products are coming out to make hair look naturally worn.” — Antonio Quintieri

EXPERT TIP TO CREATE A MORE DECONSTRUCTED LOOK, BENOIT RECOMMENDS CHIPPING INSTEAD OF POINT CUTTING. “WE PUT THE ENDS FLAT AND JUST USE CHIPPING TO CONTOUR—NOT TOO MUCH, THOUGH. [THE GOAL IS] JUST TO MAKE IT SOFTER.”

PI X I E DUST

For your pixie clients looking to grow out their locks, the “pixie bob” is a retro look that’s been making its way back—recently seen on actress Michelle Williams.

“I’m a huge fan of leaving a lot of those growing edges softer,” says Quintieri. “Leaving femininity in the style, but also cutting a lot of disconnected pieces so it has a longer feel. You can do this with fringe or maybe an asymmetrical feel on one side, or leave softer edges in the sideburns and back area.”

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

CUT: “Reverse layers.

Normally layers start from the top and go on the outside. But now we cut full length and start from the bottom to lift the sections up to have more even layers that are softer.” — Daniel Benoit, creative director, Salon Pure, Montreal

Hailey Bieber and Khloe Kardashian have both been sporting blonde variations of this “it” bob.

yle ➣

Blunt Bob

Model Irina Shayk was seen all over this year’s awards season red carpets with a chocolate-brown blunt bob.

This sleek and sharp look is a bonafide classic. Take it to the next level with layering techniques and by educating clients with blow-drying and finishing how-tos.

CUT: “Work with the natural fall of the hair without applying any pressure. Cut in straight and small sections— this is the way to create graphic lines in the hair.” — Daniel Benoit

A Cut Above Tips for helping clients transition into their shorter ’do.

Ready and Steady Before you start cutting, make sure your client is truly ready to make the commitment. Discuss length and how it will work with their face shape and lifestyle.

CUT: “Create a more modern feel by leaving it a little longer in the front.

Layering is huge for infusing more movement; nobody wants a haircut that looks like a helmet.” — Antonio Quintieri EXPERT TIP FOR BOBS, BENOIT RECOMMENDS THAT A FLAT IRON ONLY BE USED FOR FINISHING AND NOT STYLING. “A FLAT IRON SHOULD ONLY BE USED IF YOU REALLY NEED IT; IT’S NOT IMPERATIVE. WE STILL HAVE TO DRY HAIR PERFECTLY BECAUSE IF THE ROOTS ARE NOT DRIED WELL, THEY WILL LOOK PUFFY.”

STYLE: “From the round of the head to the face, we dry [the layers underneath] really flat. We don’t use a round brush to make it rounder. I use a flat brush like a Denman. You can add volume to the top section with a round brush, but you want to make sure the roots are flat.” — Daniel Benoit

STYLE: “After you’ve blowdried the hair, start with less tension on the iron from the mid-shaft. As I work my way through to the ends, I apply a little more pressure with a very soft bevel in the ends so the haircut sits absolutely perfect.” — Antonio Quintieri

“TECHNIQUES WE’RE NOW TEACHING ARE FOCUSING ON CREATING MORE MOVEMENT WITHOUT COMPROMISING THE LOOK IN TERMS OF LENGTH.”

Colour It In Just because there’s less hair to work with doesn’t mean you can’t provide clients with a customized colour service that goes beyond root retouching. Create dimension between the root colour and midlengths and ends to give hair more depth and to create a more modern look.

Routine Maintenance As with colour, shorter cuts require clients to make regular maintenance appointments. For example, with a bob they’ll want to come in every six to eight weeks to have it reshaped.

Bang for Your Buck A fringe can do wonders for both your client’s look and your business.

Opt for a layered fringe rather than a straight-across option, so clients won’t attempt to go the DIY route.

Home Run If a client can’t recreate their look at home, it doesn’t matter how great the cut looks in your salon. Educate them about blow-drying and styling techniques as you’re working with their hair, and remind them that professional products are a key part of creating their look. Show clients what you’re using as you work and you increase the chances of making a sale with take-home care!

— ANTONIO QUINTIERI, TOP STYLIST FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 37

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT! Photoshoots can cost you but the benefits and rewards are well worth the investment.

We spoke with hairstylists and salon owners who share their opinions on the added value of photography.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO Become More Creative “Eight years ago I had an accident that left me unable to work behind the chair, but I didn’t want to leave the industry. I started doing photoshoots, working with photographers who are close friends and I began to focus on working more creatively. I’m now trying to do things in a different way to encourage people to be more creative and to bring that fun back.” —Darcie Chapman, Freelance, Spurce Grove, Alta.

Get Your Talent Noticed “Becoming a Contessa finalist is a huge way to get recognized. The first time I entered for New Hairstylist of the Year, I competed in a live, onstage competition, and was thrilled about it, but I wasn’t putting out work that was genuine to me.” —Michelle Finlayson

“When it comes to taking risk with photoshoots, ask for brutal honesty, look for people to give you that and just keep trying. You have the opportunity to work on the art and craft of shooting itself.

You need to look at the wants and needs of clients when they are in your chair, but this is much different. You have to have someone with true experience, who has a professional skill level and eye.” —Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Establish Your Profile “A lot of people are trying really hard.

We are always growing the team that I’ve been working with collectively and that’s because it’s easier to notice new talent. It takes time when you’re running a business but I’ve had some cool things happen.” —Darcie Chapman

38 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Making time to plan and execute a photoshoot can be a team-building experience for everyone in your salon.

Create Your Own Content “Photos have always been important.

The inspiration you get as a hairstylist from them is even more so. It can be hard to pick a new salon for the first time, being able to see a review with a photo is key for your clients.”

—Felice Valvano, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.

BE A SHARP SHOOTER

Three tips for creating a photoshoot-ready area in your salon.

Make Room Dedicate an area in the salon, where there’s not a lot of traffic, to taking photos. It doesn’t have to be in the open, but make sure to let clients can inquire and see what’s happening. Having a bit of extra action is a good idea as it adds another dimension to the work you do in your salon.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF DARCIE CHAPMAN, MICHELLE FINLAYSON AND FELICE VALVANO

Develop Confidence in Your Craft “If you can achieve something you haven’t achieved before, it will help you be more confident with your clients. If you do a shoot for fun, that should be evident and you should look like you’re enjoying the process. Your clients will recognize your enjoyment.” —Felice Valvano “You need to talk about what you’re doing with client’s hair, but you also have to turn the conversation to industry, hair and fashion to make yourself stand out and highlight your drive and passion. It’s not just about Instagram photos. We do this for the love and art of the craft.” —Michelle Finlayson Make It Count “Now that I’m teaching classes, I’m trying to get more people to enter competitions. The change that can happen as a result of a photoshoot can be a new opportunity, which can be a very good thing.” —Darcie Chapman

Working with the right team members, including an assistant who can take behind the scenes photos or video, is key to helping maximize any photoshoot you do.

Self-Made Marketing “Salons are using their photoshoot images as artwork. It’s cooler if you have a feature wall that changes and lets your clients know that your salon is involved in the industry. They also want to know when your team did hair for a fundraiser.” —Felice Valvano

Light It Up On set or in a salon, good lighting goes a long way. Natural light is always a good thing, but choosing artificial lighting that is in keeping with the elements of natural lighting is your best option.

All in the Background Having an appealing photo wall can be as simple as incorporating exposed brick or even a simply painted wall.

Some salons have a backdrop that includes their salon logo, which is also great branding for their business.

Old School to New School “By taking a photo, you have something to put out there. For stylists, the skills you gain from seeing the flaws in photos help you to analyze your work and use constructive criticism to make your work better in the future.” — Felice Valvano

“We are an image-based industry—the whole reason we take photos of our work and post them is so people can see.

Whether it’s a wall or a window display, then it’s the salon’s work that you’re using as marketing.” —Felice Valvano

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 39

Even more

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CO LLE CTIO NS

May

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 41

Collections — STANDOUT SHADES

Pure pigment colour adds dimension and encourages a fluid movement in this dynamic British collection.

42 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

HAIR Stephanie and Ashley Gamble, Ashley Gamble, U.K. PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 43

Collections — WARRIOR PATH

Combining unexpected cuts with texture and colour creates a collection worthy of emulation.

44 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

HAIR Marc Antoni Artistic Team, U.K. MAKEUP Katie Moore STYLING Ellen Spiller PHOTOS Richard Miles Photography salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 45

Collections — ROCKING OUT

Vivid colour plays against natural hues in this highimpact collection.

Contessa 2019 Finalist, International Hairstylist of the Year, Chrystofer Benson, CBC Chrystofer Benson Collective, South Weber, Ut. MAKEUP Danielle Donahue STYLING Shirley Breaux PHOTOS John Rawson

46 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 47

Collections — BLOWN AWAY

Featuring a serious focus on texture, this collection is your entry point to warmer days ahead.

HAIR Nicola Smyth, Nicola Smyth Award Winning Hair, U.K. MAKEUP Naomi McKeever STYLING Magdalena Jacobs PHOTO Richard Miles

48 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 49

Collections — EDGING THE DETAILS

High-definition hues emphasize the sharp edges in this Canadian collection.

50 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Contessa 2019 Finalist, Master Colourist of the Year, Robin Bacon, Giovanni & Perri, Barrie, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor STYLING Adrian Arnieri PHOTOS Paula Tizzard salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 51

Collections — UNDERGROUND STYLE

Strong short cuts combined with sleek styling in a collection that's all about glamour on the edge.

HAIR Caterina Di Biase, Australia MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole STYLING Jamie-Marie Shipton PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole

52 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 53

Collections — POETIC NATURE

Featuring a subtle blend of muted hues, this collection highlights the sheer softness of textured hairstyling while creating an impactful appeal.

54 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Contessa 2019 Finalist, Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal MAKEUP Ekaterina Ulyanoff STYLING Florence O Durand PHOTOS Ara Sassoonian salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 55

#ContessaAwards

ENTRY DEADLINE

August 6, 2019 GALA

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➣ Kim’s inspiration came from Memphis Design, an ’80s design movement that “broke the rules” of design by combining quirky shapes, patterns and vibrant colours.

Yoonmi Kim After graduating from a beauty art school in South Korea, Yoonmi Kim began working as an assistant at a hair salon offering hair, makeup, waxing and nail services. Realizing her passion for nail art, she moved to Toronto and began exploring nails as a career. “I continue to enjoy and be inspired by nail art,” she says. “Park Eunkyung [a well-known Korean nail artist with an influencer-following of 289K on Instagram] is my mentor and I want to be a creative nail artist like her.”

Dream Team To help gain more recognition in the beauty industry, Kim decided to enter the Contessa Awards. Her boss, Rom Diaz at JustB Salon and BSIDE Beauty in Toronto, helped her enter and her colleague Kathleen O’Donnell—who was also Kim’s photographer for her Contessa collection— introduced her to what would later become the theme of her collection: Memphis Design, a movement that began in the early ’80s in Italy wherein uniquely shaped geometric shapes were combined with pop art.

“Colours were crucial for our Memphis theme, which used a variety of colours but had to stay

58 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

GET THE LOOK harmonious,” explains Kim. “I had to incorporate so many shades, and not only did I use [nail polish] colours, but I also used Posca Markers for more intricate shapes and hues.”

CND Shellac “I can put many layers of design [on gel polish] right after curing. Also, in my opinion, Shellac makes the nail art appear more high quality than regular polish.”

Looking Ahead Kim considers her strengths to be in character and line art, along with French nail designs, and she has big hopes and dreams for the future. “I would like to work with a variety of fashion brands for a collection, as well as create my very own brand of polish and brushes for nail art,” she says.

With being a Contessa finalist giving her the confidence to continue pushing her creativity and talent forward, she’s already looking ahead to planning her next entry. “I’m always finding inspiration online, from pieces of art to fashion collections.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; CONTESSA PHOTO: KATHLEEN O’DONNELL; CND

Contessa Gallery — 2019 CONTESSA FINALIST, CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST OF THE YEAR

“After entering the Contessa Awards, I have felt more motivated to put more effort into being a nail artist. It was a wonderful experience that I would love to try again.”

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At 26 years old, Lisa Dinh went from owning her dream salon to finding out she had to put everything on the line to save the only place she could call home—her salon.

BY LUCY MAZZUCCO

Tell us about how your career started as a hairstylist.

I graduated from the Aveda Institute of Toronto in 2009 and worked in different salons, but I started to freelance after my family built me an in-home salon in our basement. In 2014, Guy Tang noticed me on Instagram and when I met him, it changed my life. I was 24 at the time and still getting to know the industry, so he gave me the validation I needed.

After that, I went from being booked two weeks in advance to three months, to six months and eventually to a whole year.

At that point I was renting a small room but knew I wanted to open a salon, which we finally opened in January of 2016. Since I couldn’t find somewhere I belonged, I decided to create it.

What do you love most about your job?

What kind of colours and techniques do you specialize in?

We specialize in colour corrections and foilyage, which is like balayage, but uses foil instead of painting. We’re also known for a lot of ash tones and turning dark hair to light. My favourite part of my job is getting to change how clients feel about themselves.

And even more than the creative aspect, I love getting to know my clients.

Building that relationship and having them support me throughout my career is what has made me stay in this industry.

60 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

For those who don’t know your story, tell us how your salon evolved and the hard work you put into building it from the ground up.

I spent my 20s saving money in hopes of opening my own space. I would work seven days a week and 12 to 15 hours a day, and put everything I had into it in order to create a space and environment that our hairstylists could call home, too.

About a year and a half into opening the business, I found out that the landlord was going to sell the building, which would have given me only 30 days to vacate. That transition was really difficult because I felt like everything I had invested in was about to be taken away. I could have potentially lost everything, but that wasn’t a risk I was willing to take. That’s why I decided to purchase the building—I didn’t want to lose the only place I could call home.

What advice do you have for hairstylists inspired by your story and want to open their own salon?

Make sure you have a plan, a proper accountant and lease. It’s important to have professionals help and support you in the business aspect because there’s so much more to running a salon than being creative.

Also, don’t give up! It’s going to be hard and sometimes you’ll feel physically and mentally exhausted, so you have to have an end goal in mind. Someone asked me this same question recently and I said, “I challenge you to ask yourself, what does it mean to be a salon owner?” For me, it was finding a home. You have to have passion behind the purpose and intent of opening a business besides the money.

Where do you source your inspiration?

How do you stay on top of the latest trends?

Technology is so advanced now and things are constantly changing, so I get inspired by anything that is trending on my Instagram feed.

I also find inspiration while travelling in other countries and seeing different colour patterns, even when it’s not related to hair. Taking classes also fuels my passion.

PHOTOS: DENIS DUQUETTE. MIGUEL ZARAGOZA

Profile —LISA DINH

Giving It All She’s Got

➣ When she’s not working or teaching, Dinh enjoys travelling and says it’s a great source of creative inspiration.

What tips do you have for hairstylists who want to build their social media platforms?

Consistency is key. That’s how we promote, market and brand ourselves— by putting out quality work. It’s important to post exciting things like tips and tricks, which is a great way to capture a following and an audience.

You have to be able to post things that are trendy while keeping it different. In the near future, we’re hoping to involve the team more so that hairstylists can engage with clients and market themselves, too.

What makes the client experience unique at Lisa Dinh Hair Studio?

When I opened the salon, not only did I want a space for the hairstylists, but also for the clients. I make sure clients feel as if they’re being taken care of and not rushed. We want to be able to spend our time with them and give our full attention, while also putting quality work and effort into their hair. I also like to make sure they’re comfortable and in a place where we feel like family to them.

You teach classes at your salon, as well as bring in guest artists from across North America. Tell us about the education offered at your salon.

We started doing education because we began getting requests from stylists across Canada for us to teach our techniques. The first class we held was last August, when we taught our techniques for colour correction and foilyage in an intimate setting. We now teach classes in our salon on live models every four months. This year, we also decided to bring in guest artists because it creates more exposure for the salon while also inspiring multiple hairstylists in one space. All of our classes are look-and-learn so that everyone is able to ask questions.

How do you maintain a strong team and maximize the overall vibe and success of your salon?

It’s important to have a really strong team dynamic. When I bring in someone new, I like to give them a trial period so I can get a feel for them and get the whole team’s opinion, as well. I don’t want anything in terms of negativity. It’s important to be able to provide new staff with a space where everyone is happy, which has made us have such strong relationships.

If hairstylists are happy, they will provide a better experience for clients.

The people who are part of your business build your business.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 61

Interiors — THE BEVERLY Two years ago, Beverly Robertson was renting a chair out of a brow studio in Calgary’s Parkdale neighbourhood. Having won the 2018 Contessa award for Alberta Hairstylist, she was also working on CBC’s Dragon’s Den and behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week when she started thinking about moving to Toronto.

But when she discovered a vacancy next door to her former employer in Calgary, Robertson decided to make the move to salon owner instead—and The Beverly was born! “It was very serendipitous,” she says. “My clients were already used to the area, so I thought I would give it a go.”

Robertson wanted to create a salon space that was unlike any she’d ever seen; one where clients would feel right at home. “I wanted a space where people would be early to arrive and late to leave,” she says. “Somewhere they can chill at the coffee bar or at a table with

62 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Find out why the owner of this Calgary-based salon designed a home-away-from-home for her clientele.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

their laptop. I also wanted it to have a fireplace to feel extra homey.”

Instead of a large front desk, which she says can often be intimidating to guests, The Beverly features a smaller one that’s located to the side of the entrance “so you’re invited into the space right away.

It’s like a living room and you just grab a seat,” she says.

The salon’s unique design has also changed the way Robertson’s team communicates with clients.

“Consultations are in the living room area, so stylists can be in front of clients—eye to eye,” she explains. “[This allows stylists to] get more personable because the consultation is done in a more informal way.”

For the design, she worked with Haider Design Group, whose owner Ijmal Haider has known Robertson since they were teenagers. “It was really cool to have someone in my corner,”

she says. “I expressed what I wanted and he just took it to the next level with custom pieces like the fireplace.” One of Robertson’s favourite features is the salon’s white-and-grey herringbonepatterned floors, which help mask the appearance of hair clippings. The Beverly also features high-end leather shelves from Restoration Hardware, and furniture and fixtures, such as shampoo bowls with reclining chairs and built-in massagers from Gamma & Bross.

And even with such carefully curated design elements already in place, she already has her sights on more.

After recently receiving the salon’s liquor license, Robertson plans on incorporating a root touch-up area to the coffee bar, and adding a bookshelf and library to the front of the salon.

“With this kind of space, you tend to see lots of groups of friends and families, so it’s really about creating an amazing sense of community.”

PHOTOS: JOEL WARKENTIN

Creating a Community

DETAILS

BRANDS

Opened in 2018

L’Oréal Professionnel (colour)

DESIGN

Balmain Hair Couture

Haider Design Group

Kérastase Shu Uemura

SPACE

Virtue

1,300 square feet TEAM

WEBSITE/ INSTAGRAM

8 hairstylists

thebeverly.ca @thebeverly.salon

salonmagazine.ca / May 2019 63

Events —

Alterna Kicks Off in Style Featuring a specific styling and care prescription for every hair type, Alterna is taking custom styling to a new level. Sal Leonetti, the brand’s ambassador, kicked off the media event and talked specifically about different ways to work with the products as tools—whatever hair texture you may be working with behind the chair. The event also included a fun, interactive styling prescription centre where Alterna educators provided customized styling solutions.

When & Where: February 28, Toronto

SOMA Clarifying Shampoo removes product build up and trace minerals without diminishing your client’s hair color.

64 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

Last year, more than 200 cities across Canada participated in the inaugural Colour To Conquer Cancer event. This May, Colour to Conquer is back challenging you (and your clients) to colour your hair and raise funds for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre, one of the top five cancer research centres in the world. From creating a fundraising team in your salon to volunteering for events across the country, there are plenty of ways for hairstylists to be involved in this incredible event. Find out more at colourtoconquer.ca.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALTERNA

Reveal a fresh canvas!

Make Colour Count Scoop —

clarifying shampoo

G et the late s t in du s tr y news

B u il d a reward ing c a re e r

SalonMagazine.ca An d , of cou rse , se e s tu n n ing co lle c ti o ns!

Find the te ch ni c al a dvi ce you crave

A FRESH NEW LOOK AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 44 salonmagazine.caSalonMag / June 2018

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Salon Stories —

At the Heart of Hairstylists After founding the non-profit organization My New Hair, world-renowned hairstylist Trevor Sorbie considers his next chapter. We spoke with Sorbie and Canadian ambassador Lyette Belanger about this innovative educational program.

Tell us about My New Hair. Why did you decide to establish an organization dedicated to medical hair loss?

Can you speak to the emotional/human connection and the importance of the relationship between a hairstylist and client in these types of situations?

TS Firstly, hairdressers are good communicators. But you have to communicate in a very diplomatic way. I don’t treat people going through chemotherapy as different; they want to be treated as normal. You have to feel people. I feel what I do is psychological medicine—if you can look like and feel like the same person, I feel that it makes them stronger.

66 salonmagazine.ca / May 2019

LB Having experience as a hairdresser is key. You have to have a level of empathy to serve a client who is losing her hair.

She needs to be taken care of, given good advice and be surrounded by love and to feel secure. You need to have the feelings to do this. There are some hairdressers that are scared of cancer. You really have to feel that you have to give extra.

Obviously this is a very sensitive situation, so what advice do you offer hairstylists even in having the first conversation with clients?

TS It’s about listening to their feelings and if they feel you care when you speak with them they’ll come to see you. The other important thing is you have to have a private room. My advice is to have them come in before you open or after you close, so they feel comfortable and that you care enough to work a bit of overtime to help them. They may be scared initially, so you really have to listen to what they have to say.

LB For me, having the experience of cutting wigs, you want to have a relationship with your client who is going through this. It’s a family thing.

To me, the client who has lost her hair needs her hairdresser even more.

I think it’s a good opportunity for hairdressers to help.

When it comes to the technical aspects of wig cutting and styling, what are some of the technical aspects that hairstylists need to be aware of?

TS Ask the client to take a photo of themselves with hair [before the cancer treatment]. Then I know what to do in terms of the hair colour, cut and style.

LB You have to have precision in cutting. For me, the idea of this course and to work with Trevor is to improve the way in which wigs are viewed. We see celebrities that quite often wear wigs and we are crazy about them.

Tell us about your relationship with Pureology. Why were they an important partner to have, especially when launching My New Hair in Canada?

TS L’Oréal Professionnel and Pureology are brave enough to support us, so we won’t disappoint. The program has taught me so much about people.

PHOTOS: TREVOR SORBIE, LYETTE BELANGER

TREVOR SORBIE It all started 11 years ago when my sister-in-law was diagnosed with cancer. When I cut and styled a wig for her, she just about started crying with joy. I was at a stage in my career where I wanted to be doing something important. What I do now is a very important part of the healing process. We are able to do something the medical profession can’t, and this has a big effect on people’s self-esteem.

LYETTE BELANGER For me, I had been through cancer two years ago. I lost my hair—I had long, thick, curly black hair—and this was a huge change in my life. This is why I automatically thought this is the right program for me. It’s a matter of giving back.

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