Salon Magazine, May 2021

THE NEW WAV E OF E - C OM M E RCE F I N D YOU R CL I E N T ’ S PE R F E C T SH A DE

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SI M PL I F Y I NG C OL OU R C OR R E C T ION

Brighter Days M AY 2 0 2 1

salonmagazine.ca

lorealpro_education_canada

Step

NEW

Blond Studio Clay Powder 7 For Soft Balayage ✓ 19% pure clay. ✓ Elastic texture. ✓ No ammonia. ✓ Ideal for open-air balayage.

Step

Dia Light Nourishing Gloss ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Demi permanent gel-cream hair colour.

Acidic pH. No ammonia.

Hair is 30% more conditioned.

Neutralizes warmth with glossy shine.

Perfectly blended.

Never warm.

Glossy shine.

Purchase now on lorealpartnershop.com or at a L’Oréal Professionnel distributor.

MyHero

SHIELDS AGAINST DAMAGE

SCAN ME

FOR MORE INFO

INTENSE RESTORATIVE SYSTEM #MyHero Intense Restorative System is a 5-step system designed to shield the hair from damage caused during a color service and repair the health and hydration after any chemical service.

KEY INGREDIENTS

ALOE

@GUY_TANG

HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN

KERATIN

@GUYTANG_MYDENTITY GUY TANG MYDENTITY MYDENTITYCOLOR.COM

May 2021 28 F E AT U R E

Colour Correction

With at-home hair colour services at an all-time high, we spoke with several experts to gather helpful tips and tricks for tackling different types of colour correction.

33 F E AT U R E

Perfect Match

44 ELEVEN E D U CAT I O N TEAM, AU S T R A L I A

Whether their skin tone is warm, cool or neutral, here’s how to create the most flattering colour for your clients.

39 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

“People will ask for the craziest colours or to lighten their ends more, so we need the tools to help keep their hair shiny and healthy.”

Salon Pure; Viktoriia Vradii; ELEVEN Education Team; Daniele De Angelis; Candice McKay; Nicole Pede; Ivan Rodriguez

56 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Jennifer Vermeer

Find out what inspires this Master Colourist finalist to create, and learn how the pandemic has taught her about work-life balance.

—TRACEY CUNNINGHAM, CELEBRITY COLOURIST AND SALON OWNER BASED IN LOS ANGELES ON THE COVER: HAIR: VIKTORIIA VRADII, LE SALON VRV, UKRAINE, MAKEUP: EVGENIYA SPIKTORENKI, WARDROBE STYLING: IRINA DZHUS, PHOTO: TONY LE-BRITTON salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 9

12

60

Editor’s Letter

P RO F I L E

True Calling

Tracey Cunningham is a force to be reckoned with when it comes to hair colour.

Find out how the celebrity colourist has been impacted by the pandemic and why she’s decided to add “author” to her already impressive resume.

14

Publisher’s Note

16 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Craving more Salon content?

Head over to our website for more stories, collection photos, how-tos and more!

62 INTER IORS

Colour House

17

Take a peek inside Oligo Professionnel’s Montrealbased salon and academy, La Maison De La Couleur.

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Embrace the warmer seasons with fresh colour launches, new haircare, tools and styling products. Plus, some fun, summer-ready nail art!

48 CA N D I C E M C K AY, W YAT T H A I R D R E S S I N G A N D BA R BER ING, S O U T H A F R I CA

40 58 BUSINESS

Setting Up Shop

Curious about how your salon can further benefit from retail sales during the pandemic? Learn why these salons decided to partner with their local distributors to offer clients the ultimate online retail experience.

CONTE SSA 2 0 2 1 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N SA LON TE A M SA LON PU R E , MONTR EA L

64 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

66 SA LON SOCI A L

Creative Colour

50 CONTE SSA 2 0 2 1 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N HAIRSTYLIST N ICOLE PEDE , INSTY LE SA LON & S PA , AY L M E R , O N T.

10 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Take a look at some striking colour creations from across the country that caught our eye on social media.

NEW

Inspired by the transformative hours of the morning, this unique palette of 4 demi-permanent warm tones from enhanced golds to fiery coppers provide brilliant reflection and vibrancy.

9 Gold Gold

6 Gold Gold

9 Copper Copper

7 Copper Copper

SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE

Editor’s Letter —

SEE STUNNING COLLECTIONS BU I L D A R E WA R DI NG CA R E E R GE T TH E L AT E S T I N DU S T RY NE WS F I N D TH E TE C H N ICA L A DV IC E YOU CR AV E

salonmagazine.ca

Rising to the Challenge It’s safe to say that most of us love a challenge, but when it comes to colour correction, that may not always be the case. However, it doesn’t change the fact that many clients are looking to you to help fix their hair. In fact, it’s a reminder of how important colourists and hairstylists are today. Remember: There are simply some things your clients cannot achieve from home, and the professional salon experience is one of them.

With that said, it’s undeniable that the pandemic has been devastating to our beloved industry. However, it’s important not to lose sight of the opportunity it presents. Hair will keep growing, roots will keep showing and clients will return to your chairs—in droves! Good things come to those who wait.

On a positive note, our Colour Issue is filled with helpful info that will help you rethink your colour service strategies; from breaking down the top colour concerns in “Correcting the Right Way” (pg. 28) to helping clients find their most flattering shade in “Finding the Perfect Match” (pg. 33). And on page 60, I had the pleasure of chatting with colourist to the stars, Tracey Cunningham, about her experiences during the pandemic (hint: they’re not unlike yours) and her upcoming book that’s a must-read for beauty pros.

No matter what level you’re at in your career, I encourage you to take a look at the silver linings and lessons learned from the pandemic. There’s nowhere to go from here but up!

SalonMag Salon_Magazine salonmagazine

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

SalonMagazine

12 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 AD_salonmagazineDOTca.halfV_1-1.indd 1

2020-12-10 4:47 PM

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

DISCOVER MORE– RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

PACKED WITH POWER. PACKAGED WITH LESS. SAME BUT SOLID. TRY THE NEW KMS SOLID SHAMPOOS NOW.

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Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 30, ISSUE 4 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note­ —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca INTERN Lauren Farrugia intern@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Personal Touch

Laura Dunphy Publisher

14 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

Subscription Rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included.

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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

In some ways, the hair colour business reminds me of a really great bakery. You can buy cake or pastries from the supermarket, but the quality of the goods is usually quite average. When you want something special and customized, you go to a specialty bakery that offers a much more elevated experience. The same is true of hair colour.

Recently, I’ve been hearing the phrase “expensive-looking colour” and it’s often in reference to blondes. People notice a beautiful set of highlights or a balayage, not realizing these colour services require very skilled techniques and placement—both of which are huge business drivers for salons. As such, it makes complete sense that stylists and salon owners would be concerned when hearing consumers are resorting to drugstore box colour during the pandemic.

It’s my belief that it will take much more than box colour sales to significantly affect salon business. Let’s face it: For years, drugstore colour has been garnering as much as 60 per cent of the overall colour market. Shocking, right? But there are two ways of looking at this number. Yes, it’s staggering, but on the flipside, it’s an indication of the fact that there’s a huge opportunity to find new colour clients! This number represents a group of people who still want their hair coloured versus someone who isn’t interested in colouring at all, which is obviously a much harder sell!

Here’s another fact: Over the last 10 years, the hair colour business has exploded. For years, the mainstay of colour was root touch-ups and the occasional blonde highlights, but thanks to the balayage movement and rise of mermaid and fashion tones, in-salon colour services have never been in higher demand. The takeaway here is to customize your colour—even if it’s the simplest root touch-up.

Personalize it, use different techniques (such as the money piece), offer a few foils or a root shadow to keep clients loyal to you. In other words, when you offer these types of services, you’re ensuring that they can’t be duplicated at home.

We hope our Colour Issue will inspire you to revisit your services and envision new ways of creating million-dollar-looking results. After all, in-salon colour is a priceless experience!

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

We have a ton of collections right at your fingertips! Take a look at stunning work by hairstylists around the world and get ready to be inspired.

➣ Did you enter our latest So You Think You Can Style? contest, sponsored

by Moroccanoil?

Voting opens May 5th!

Vote online for your favourite editorial hairinspired look!

Bold Colour Ready to take your colouring skills to the next level? We have how-tos and step-bysteps on how to complete bold new styles for your clients.

Short on Staff?

Contessa 2022!

Entries are opening soon and we can’t wait to see what you’ve got! Check out our website for our new rules, tips and info on how to enter.

Looking for some new talent to join your team? We have just the place to help you find your next superstar stylist! Take a look at our online job board today and post a free listing.

PHOTOS: HAIR: JONATHAN TURNER, HOOKER & YOUNG, U.K., MAKEUP: KIRSTEN BAILLIE, WARDROBE STYLING: CLARE FRITH, PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG, CODY RASMUSSEN, MULTI-TOOL BY MARIAH GARDZIOLA FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, HAIRDRESSER BY EUCALYP FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

So You Think You Can Style?

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salonmagazine.c

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16 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

PicturePerfect Styles

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR ROUTINE WITH THE LATEST COLOUR, CARE AND STYLING PRODUCTS.

PHOTO: REVLON PROFESSIONAL CANADA

➣ Inspired by the concept of minimalism and simplification—wherein you consume less but seek out higher-quality products— Revlon Professional’s Byelayage spring/summer 2021 collection is the ideal inspiration to bring in a new season. Featuring a revamped version of the two-tone trend with colour blocking techniques, the collection is filled with everything from practical, versatile looks to daring, long-lasting creations. Featuring grownout short styles (pictured) for an elevated minimalist look, the ’do pairs fun, pastel shades with warmer chestnut tones to express and highlight femininity and self-assurance. The styles in this powerful collection pair classic concepts with contemporary flair and the result is opulent shine that’s perfect for today’s empowered woman.

To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 17

Hairlines — NEWS

➣ IN WITH THE NEW

Schwarzkopf Professional revamps its beloved IGORA Royal portfolio.

Treat Hair Right Put an end to scalp irritation with Moroccanoil’s new Dry and Oily Scalp Treatments.

➣

Solid Choice KMS’ new Shampoo Bars offer the same cleansing performance and quality you know and love—minus the waste.

As a brand that’s passionate about sustainability, KMS is about to change the game with their latest innovation. In an effort to save water during product development, reduce plastic and packaging materials, and minimize their overall carbon footprint, the brand is launching a collection of three solid versions of its beloved shampoos: MOISTREPAIR, ADDVOLUME and HEADREMEDY. Each bar consists of plant-based ingredients that are free of sulfates, silicones and alcohol, and each helps improve hair structure, leaving strands looking and feeling healthy. It’s the perfect addition for clients looking for a “cleaner” alternative to benefit both their hair and the planet—a win-win!

18 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Moroccanoil has upgraded two of its treatments to help offer some relief to your clients struggling with oily or dry scalps. Formulated with the brand’s signature argan oil, lavender, ginger root oils and a biotin peptide complex, Moroccanoil’s new pre-cleansing Oily Scalp Treatment soothes the scalp and rebalances oil production. Its revamped exfoliating Dry Scalp Treatment is enriched with argan oil, salicylic acid and vitamin E to help relieve and balance dry, itchy scalps while also protecting and promoting healthylooking hair.

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, MATRIX, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, JOICO, MOROCCANOIL, KMS

Just in time for the busy colour season ahead, Schwarzkopf Professional is relaunching their flagship colour brand, IGORA Royal, with a brand-new look. While the signature formula remains unchanged, its new modernized practices—with an emphasis on sustainable packaging—is a prime example of how the line is evolving with the times. The portfolio has been streamlined to include a total of 132 shades, each of them featuring a new logo. The dedicated technical lines will keep their standalone packaging, but will be given an updated range of colours on the box for convenient product selection. And to further their commitment to sustainability, the new IGORA Royal tubes will be made of 100 per cent recycled aluminum, with caps consisting of 80 per cent recycled plastic and folding boxes made from 96 per cent sugarcane paper!

➣

Hairlines — NEWS

Break Even

Protect your blonde clients’ locks with Matrix Total Results Unbreak My Blonde.

➣

It’s time to help your blonde clients maintain their colour and restore their hair health with Matrix Total Results Unbreak My Blonde. Formulated with citric acid, the three-step system includes a Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave-In Treatment to help rebuild weakened bonds and repair overprocessed, damaged hair from lightening services—on all hair types and textures!

TO THE RESCUE!

Help your clients tackle their hair dilemmas with Joico’s Defy Damage Invincible Protector.

For clients requiring a little extra hair love, Joico’s Defy Damage Invincible Protector can help provide the boost they need. The frizz-fighting bond protector offers up to 24 hours of smoothing power, nourishes hair while protecting against pollution, thermal damage and humidity, just in time for the warmer months!

Lightweight in texture, this functional conditioning spray packs a powerful punch, leaving hair with a soft, silky finish complete with a subtle glow.

➣

Level Up

Take your balayage game to the next level with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Blond Studio 7.

When it comes to achieving the soft, natural-looking balayage that most clients are looking for, it’s easier than ever with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Blond Studio 7 Lightening Clay Powder. Providing seamless lightening of up to seven levels on any hair type, the powder’s unique consistency (containing 19 per cent clay) makes it easy to use for balayage, freehand, air painting, highlights and more. The ammonia-free formula helps neutralize warmth for results that are more radiant and blended.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 19

➣ Give clients the hair of their dreams with Color Wow’s Money Masque by Chris Appleton.

Shoot Your Shot!

Tips and tricks for utilizing your smartphone for your Contessa photography.

Celebrity hairstylist and global creative director for Color Wow, Chris Appleton, has collaborated with the brand on Money Masque, a new masque that creates ideal texture for every hair type. Appleton worked with the brand’s in-house chemist for more than a year to create a formula containing blue sea kale—a hydrolyzed vegetable protein complex—and a Mediterranean Sea kelp/algae blend. These plant-powered ingredients help repair and strengthen locks from the inside out to deliver intense hydration while providing luxe, silky-looking results. Whether your clients have fine, thin, frizzy or coarse strands, this weightless masque is sure to make their hair look and feel like a million bucks.

It’s almost that time of year again! As we get ready for the 33rd annual Contessa Awards (our entry period opens in May!) we can’t wait to see what you all have in store for this year’s competition.

As we understand how difficult 2020 and 2021 have been, with the pandemic’s restrictions that have made it harder (or nearly impossible) to plan a photo shoot, we wanted to help guide you on how to produce Contessa-quality work from your phone!

➣

REFRESH AND CLEAN

Get freshlooking locks with Redken’s Deep Clean Dry Shampoo.

➣

Bust It!

Extend the life of your clients’ hairstyles with Deep Clean Dry Shampoo. Enriched with rice and tapioca starch, it’s free from silicones, sulfates and talc, and works well on all hair types. Even better: It makes hair feel and look so fresh that clients can extend their styles for up to four days!

Tone, brighten and repair blonde locks with amika’s Bust Your Brass Intense Repair Mask and Cool Blonde Repair Shampoo and Conditioner.

Formulated with the brand’s signature bond cure technology, vegan proteins, plant butters and ultra-violet pigments, which offset yellow and brassy tones, amika’s new Bust Your Brass line will be your blonde clients’ new best friends. The brand’s Intense Repair Mask and newly updated Cool Blonde Repair Shampoo and Conditioner both work to tone down brassiness while strengthening and repairing damaged locks, so your clients can achieve and maintain their best and brightest colour.

20 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Device Details Make sure you’re using a phone with a camera that has a minimum of 12MP, meaning the camera will capture 12 million pixels for clear, crisp, highquality photos. Suitable devices include (but are not limited to): iPhone 8 or newer, Google Pixel 2 or newer and Samsung Galaxy s8 or newer.

Check your camera settings to ensure that they’re set to the highest resolution. You should also take advantage of your phone’s camera capabilities, which allow you to enable grid lines and adjust exposure, along with many other helpful tools.

TIP TRY USING THE PORTRAIT MODE SETTING ON YOUR DEVICE, WHICH WILL ALLOW YOU TO CAPTURE PHOTOS WITH A SHARP FOCUS ON THE SUBJECT AND A BLURRED BACKGROUND.

Editing and Exporting Consider using an editing software, such as Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop, to transform your photos by adjusting brightness, contrast, sharpness and more.

REMINDER EDITING OF THE HAIR’S CUT, SHAPE, STYLE OR COLOUR IS NOT PERMITTED!

You can also edit your photos directly from the camera app on your phone or download apps that are easier to use—there are many!

Shoot Like a Pro • Use a tripod for a steadier and more consistent shot.

• Don’t use the zoom feature as this may decrease the quality of your photos. For closeup shots, simply move closer to your subject.

• Don’t use flash as this can cause unwanted shadows or glares. If your photo is too dark, use natural light or a ring light.

• You can purchase lenses to attach to the camera of your phone to improve photo quality and focus. For example, a wide-angle lens can be helpful when taking images of a larger subject and a macro lens can be used for better focus on a subject.

For more helpful tips and our full list of Contessa rules & regulations, visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa.

PHOTOS: COLOR WOW, #MYDENTITY, DAVINES, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, AMIKA, REDKEN

Hairlines — NEWS

R ICH INDULGENCE

Elevate your blonde clients’ styles with Guy Tang’s #mydentity #LiftMeUp High Lift Blonding System.

Blondie Vibes

The pandemic has caused a backlog of clients waiting to book their next appointment, and as a result, many salons are looking to save time on services wherever possible. With that in mind, celebrity colourist Guy Tang created the #LiftMeUp, a high lift blonding system that lifts hair up to six levels while toning, all in one convenient step. The innovative system eliminates the traditional two-step process, which saves time for both the client and stylist! Let clients choose between Illuminate Pearl Blonde, a reflective cool blonde tone, Passion Bright Blonde, which offers a sun-kissed glow, or Inspire Rose Blonde, a vibrant rose gold shade, for their new-and-improved look.

Hairlines — NEWS

➣

QUICK LIFT

Help maintain your blonde clients’ hair health with Davines’ Heart of Glass.

Formulated with baobab extract and the brand’s innovative fortifying botanical shield, the blonde care line is formulated to provide nutrition, hydration and elasticity back to hair. Infused with a biacidic bond complex to repair and prevent damage and natural jagua blue extract to balance natural and colour-treated blonde tones, the Heart of Glass system was designed to meet the needs of all types of blonde hair.

The system includes Silkening Shampoo to cleanse and clarify, Rich Conditioner to nourish, Intense Treatment to strengthen and Sheer Glaze to hydrate and protect from heat and UV rays.

What inspired you to create #LiftMeUp? As human beings, we can struggle with our identity. This past year, we’ve learned how important our mental health is; to always remember who we are and be confident with who we are. Two years ago, I was feeling really down.

As a hairstylist and educator, I constantly lift up my clients and other hairstylists, but I always forget to lift myself up. We help other people feel better about themselves, but if you’re not happy, how can you expect to make other people happy? #LiftMeUp came from that, and I know it’s pretty deep for a colour line, but I don’t want it to end there. When you hold up the packaging, it empowers you and reminds you to love yourself and do something for you.

What are you seeing in terms of colour trends for 2021?

When quarantine first started, things started coming back, like the thick, chunky highlights and money pieces from the ’90s—like the Spice Girls’ Ginger Spice look. We started seeing people being bold with green chunks and stripes. I think after last year, with so many things being unpredictable, the thing we have to be aware of now is how anything can happen, and quickly. With TikTok and social media, things pop up out of nowhere. I think being educated in every arena is important; the ’60, ’70s, ’80, ’90s. I remember 10 years ago, one of the hardest things for me to master was the Old Hollywood finger waves. I spent months learning how to perfect them. Now I know how, and can style so many different looks because I educated myself. Get a mannequin head, do it on your sister, brother or mom. Prepare for anything to happen because we really can’t predict the future these days. Keep your eyes open and be prepared with every weapon in your arsenal.

TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX

Q&A WITH GUY TANG

Avanti Ultra 1-3/8” Nano-Titanium Infrared Flat Iron Powered by Croc —

Made with nanotitanium technology and high-quality ceramic heater —

Features a digital temperature control system and heats up to 450°F for optimal results

| Floating plates with surround heat and infrared heat technology to eliminate frizz and seal in moisture

“I love the design as it’s very comfortable in your hands while using it for curls and straightening hair. With surround heat, I love how easily and perfectly each curl is formed, and with wider, floating plates the hair glides between them very easily and effortlessly so I can straighten hair in less time and create soft, beachy waves when using it to curl.”

— Theo Chu, BabylissPro educator, Thornhill, Ont.

—

One-hour autoshutoff to avoid overheating

| 10-foot-long, 360° swivel power cord for ease of use

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 21

➣ Hairlines — NEWS

Eco Makeover Reintroduce yourself to Oribe’s Imperial Blowout Transformative Styling Crème.

Get the same high-performing product you love without the excess waste, thanks to Oribe’s Imperial Blowout Transformative Styling Crème. Updated with a new controlled dispenser and 100 per cent recyclable can, the formula remains unchanged—utilizing the same skincare-grade oils and amino acids it’s known for. The results: The cream-tooil-to-powder Styling Crème softens hair while adding density, body, heat protection and breakage control.

➣ M ASK ON

Give your clients a product they’ll love with Olaplex’s No. 8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask.

22 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Rise and Shine Familiarize yourself with Kenra Color’s Sunrise collection.

There’s no better time to get your clients thinking about adding more vibrancy and depth to their hair colour than the warmer seasons. From deep, warm gold tones (6GG and 9GG) to new fiery copper shades (7CC and 9CC), Kenra’s Sunrise collection, made up of four demi-permanent shades, provides reflection, vibrancy and lustre to elevate and enhance your clients’ everyday looks.

PHOTOS: ORIBE, KENRA PROFESSIONAL, OLAPLEX

Ready to give your clients more shine, body and smoothness? Say hello to OLAPLEX’s No. 8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask. The highly concentrated reparative formula is infused with the brand’s signature Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, a technology that penetrates the hair shaft to rebuild hair and eliminate further damage. The No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask leaves hair more moisturized after just one 10-minute application, making it a perfect (and efficient!) in-salon service to nourish your clients’ hair and add more shine and hydration.

The innovative mask contains skincare-grade ingredients, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid, as well as botanical and vegan ingredients including avocado oil and rose hip seed extract. An added bonus: Its packaging contains an airless pump to provide more precise dosing and less waste, which is just one way Olaplex has committed to reducing their carbon footprint.

INTRODUCING

KERAFLEX™ EXTENSIONS Made with a softer, more flexible, matte keratin bond.

FIRST WE INVENTED THE TAPE. THEN WE PERFECTED THE WEFT. NOW WE’VE REIMAGINED THE BOND. • First-of-its-kind matte keratin extension bond: softer and more discreet • 1cm pre-customized bond height saves time • 8mm bond width for optimal customizability • Compatible with most existing hot fusion thermal tools • Available in 21 Hotheads® shades Contact your distributor for more information.

HOTHEADS.COM/DISTRIBUTORS ©2021, IDC, All Rights Reserved | www.hotheads.com

0.3"

BLA ME IT ON THE JUICE

Hairlines — NAILS

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

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ORLY You’ll be transported to another world with Tangerine Dream from the Electric Escape collection.

Gelish We’re crushing on Orange Crush Blush, an orangey-coral crème from the Feel The Vibes collection.

5

6

Entity Stand out this season with Electric You, a dynamic neon shade from the Turn On The Neon collection.

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Gnarly Nails Spring into summer with these fun and colourful designs spotted on celebrities.

1 Khloe Kardashian is playing with pastels with these colourful stiletto French tips.

2 Great nails run in the family! Much like her sister, Kylie Jenner is experimenting with colours and patterns this season with some epic asymmetrical nail art.

3 Actress Tia Mowry sports a sweet and spring-ready flower manicure.

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4 Award-winning singer H.E.R. is known to stand out and this colour block manicure by Chaun Legend helps her do just that.

5 Hailey Bieber is known for her great style, so it’s no surprise to see her with a trendy and feminine green French mani with a floral accent nail.

6 Actress and OPI ambassador Kerry Washington made a major statement at the 2021 SAG

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Awards with this bold blue manicure, complete with glittery gems.

7 Actress Anya Taylor-Joy looked like a true “queen” with this elegant mani, featuring a modern, blackoutlined French tip.

8 Pop singer Mimi Webb is taking us back in time with her groovy, retro-inspired nails.

9 Singer Ella Mai is known for her powerful vocals and her trendy nail designs, including this baby pink and mint green design by nail artist Kim Truong.

CND Try something sweet like Popsicle Picnic, a blazing bright orange hue from the Summer City Chic collection.

Artistic Nail Design The vivid orange Strike A Chord from the Alive & Amplified collection—a collaboration with Hard Rock—is a serious showstopper.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, ORLY, GELISH, ENTITY, CND, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, LISE PAVICH, HAYLEY WOOLLEY

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Hairlines — NAILS

WITH SUMMER ON THE HORIZON, WE SPOKE WITH TWO NAIL EXPERTS TO FIND OUT WHICH LOOKS WILL BE HEATING UP THIS SEASON.

Trending Tips PRO TIP WHEN DISPLAYING YOUR NAIL DESIGNS IN THE SALON, CONSIDER INCLUDING A PRICE WITH THE SWATCH THAT FACTORS IN THE TIME AND PRODUCT COST TO HELP MANAGE YOUR CLIENTS’ EXPECTATIONS.

As temperatures continue to rise, more clients will want to flaunt their new mani/pedi for the season.

And with some nail salons preparing to reopen after the latest lockdown, it’s important to know what clients will be looking for. “I’ve really been able to take a step back and look at what I love about my artistry,” says Lise Pavich, a nail artist and education ambassador for CND, based in Edson, Alta. “I feel there’s been a shift for many of us to what’s familiar to us—who we are, what represents us and how we feel.”

With trends from the virtual spring/summer 2021 Fashion Week ranging from minimalistic nudes to soft pastels to bright pops of pink, there’s no time like the present to help clients try something new. “The trends are all over the place for colours,” says Pavich. “I’m getting more requests that are based on how clients feel about colours. How would a splash of bright orange or pink look on their skin tone? What about pastel or bold colours? Maybe a bit of both. Nails are coming alive this summer!”

“TRENDS FOR SUMMER 2021 ARE VERY ABSTRACT; I SAY GO BOLD WITH YOUR NAIL DESIGNS! ADD SOME SPARKLE, FOILS AND/OR CHROME SO IT REFLECTS IN THE SUNSHINE, AND MIX TEXTURES FROM A SUEDE TO GLOSS TOP COAT, GIVING EXTRA DIMENSION TO ANY NAIL ART DESIGN.” — HAYLEY WOOLLEY, NAIL ARTIST AND BIO SCULPTURE CANADA AMBASSADOR, BARRIE, ONT.

Neon (and On and On) Neon hues are a perennial summer go-to for many of your bolder clients, and that’s not about to change just because we’re in a pandemic. “I personally think neons for summer will always be a staple,” says Hayley Woolley, a nail artist and Bio Sculpture Canada ambassador based in Barrie, Ont. “I know my clients take advantage of their midsummer, sun-kissed tan and always want to go bright, especially for pedicures. Here in Canada, we don’t get to wear those bright neons for long, so it’s always exciting when the opportunity arises!”

“Neon still seems to add that amazing bold pop of confidence,” adds Pavich. “Maybe it’s a slight accent in hand-drawn nail art techniques to bring street art alive, or bold and bright strong backgrounds to pop out linework or patterns.”

Give Them Space Whether it’s half moons, stripes or cutouts, negative space is a fun and easy way to add a playful yet understated detail. When combined with other trends, it can truly take your art to the next level. “I’m loving a negative-space nail with colour blocking designs, using a variety of shades and shapes,” says Woolley. “Marble nails are another trend that I’m a huge fan of. I like when the marbling runs partially though the nail—like a river—adding some chrome, glitter or foil to pop.”

“I’ve been seeing a combination of textures, patterns and colours that might look like a blend of a nude canvas with a splash of colour, with a simple accent like a hand-drawn outline, foil or print,” adds Pavich. “Mixing techniques like soft, flowing line-work with nudes and a matte top coat, or bold patterns achieved with transfers, water decals, stamping or freehand. And who doesn’t love sugaring, embossing or embedding colour? Don’t forget about the fresh feels of nature and fruit, or floral with a cool outline for more of a 3D effect.” salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 25

DISCOVER WHY NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO HELP YOUR MALE CLIENTS START EXPERIMENTING WITH THEIR HAIR COLOUR.

Embracing Colour While many women are known to colour their hair, there continues to be some hesitancy when it comes to men.

Pointing your male clients to celebrities who’ve embraced the practice is an option (we see you, Adam Levine!), but it’s often still a challenge to persuade your male clients to step outside the box. However, with spring in the air, it may be the perfect opportunity to begin a conversation.

“From my experience, it’s a specific type of male that is hesitant to colour his hair,” says Corey Bakon, a barber instructor at Tommy Guns Barbershop in Vancouver and national educator for John Paul Mitchell Systems. “Usually, educating the client on the proper products, techniques and tools for them is the answer.

While it’s true that there are male clients out there who only want to be natural, even in those circumstances, there are ways to keep that natural hair looking bright and healthy.”

Goodbye, Grey!

Though covering grey hair or brightening up their colour to reflect the season may be top of mind for you, it may not be for your client. “It’s important to remember that more often than not, they haven’t even thought about that process,” says Bakon.

“Offering a semi- or demi-permanent colour service that doesn’t take a lot of time or leave a line of demarcation can be the best introduction.”

It may be easier to simply stick to your client’s usual hair and grooming routine, but it’s important to be on the lookout for opportunities and new ways to upgrade your services to increase revenue

26 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

and add to the overall client experience.

“If they have grey in their beard, you can offer a quick ash-tone semi or demi to give the beard some life,” says Bakon. “When they say, ‘Cut all the grey hairs off’ as a joke, use it as an opportunity to talk about blending, coverage and/ or adding natural shine.”

“It’s always fun to bring a client beyond his expectations in the salon chair,” says Eve Karat, owner of 53 Karat salon in Gatineau, Que., and an educator for Kenra Professional. “I’ve noticed, men like to be very secretive and quick if (and when) they opt for grey coverage. I find this creates a nice bond between the stylist and client.”

While Karat has noticed that many men don’t want to spend the time on a full colour service experience and would prefer to stay at the backbar and get it done as fast (and discreetly) as possible, she says it’s important to not be shy when starting the conversation. “I always ask grey-haired clients about their hair and if they’re comfortable with it and let them know there are options to blend it more,” she says. “When the door is open, you’re able to have more open conversations. I like to introduce treatments, too, so they feel like there’s a selection of options available since most of them aren’t aware.”

PRO TIP FOR MORE NATURALLOOKING RESULTS, BAKON RECOMMENDS HAND-PAINTING THE COLOUR FOR BEARDS, (RATHER THAN FULL COVERAGE OF THE FACE), WHICH IS AN APPROACH THAT CAN ALSO BE APPLIED ON THE HEAD.

TEXT SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK, HAND WITH PAINT BRUSH BY OLEKSANDR PANASOVSKYI FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Hairlines — MEN

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Colour with Confidence These expert-approved products will help you easily create the look your client has been dreaming of.

“IF YOU WANT TO ENCOURAGE YOUR MALE CLIENTS TO COLOUR THEIR HAIR, HAVING AN HONEST AND INFORMATIVE CONVERSATION, WITHOUT BRINGING A LOT OF ATTENTION TO THE MATTER, CAN PRODUCE GREAT RESULTS.” — COREY BAKON, BARBER INSTRUCTOR, TOMMY GUNS BARBERSHOP, VANCOUVER

Kenra Studio Stylist Express A permanent colour line that nourishes and conditions hair while conveniently lifting and covering grey hair in just 10 minutes.

Paul Mitchell SynchroLift Lightener This dust-free, blue-tinted powder formula gently lifts up to nine levels.

Kenra Color Creatives This semi-permanent range of muted and vibrant shades can last up to 50 washes.

Paul Mitchell The Demi An intermixable demipermanent line that conditions hair while providing vibrant colour for up to six weeks.

Go Bold If your male clients are interested in channeling their inner Joe Jonas or Pete Davidson, Bakon recommends encouraging them to look on Instagram for inspiration. “Once they find something they can relate to and see on themselves, I would give them the full consultation on the process, cost and aftercare, and talk about products,” he says. “It’s important to also bring up the importance of a good take-home shampoo and conditioner to help maintain results between regular visits.”

Although maintenance may seem obvious, most men who aren’t used to colouring their hair will likely be unaware of what’s involved to help prolong their hue.

“Education is so important, especially when it comes to male clients who may otherwise turn to drugstore products [for maintenance],” says Karat. “It’s important to be vocal and to help inform them so they understand the maintenance process. I always try to educate without selling, but I find that they always end up buying the products anyway, because they want the best for their hair and they trust that I want the best for them, too.”

Actor Chris Messina (pictured left) and singersongwriter Dominic Fike (above) showing off their playfully coloured locks.

Live While You’re Young!

You may think colouring hair would appeal more to older men looking to cover their grey, but according to Karat, it’s her younger male clientele that are much more willing to talk about colour services and are open to experimenting with colour. “The younger generations are more comfortable with embracing this type of change,” she says. “They’re making TikToks and taking videos around the salon; they are super open-minded. Times are changing and we need to adapt, too.”

Bakon, who loves to work with fashion shades, says he enjoys playing with techniques to enhance his clients’ colour. Although he offers a lot of grey blending and beard toning services to his older clients, he also enjoys the creativity that often comes with catering to a younger clientele.

“There’s nothing quite like exceeding your client’s expectations,” he says. “Colouring hair isn’t just about how you look, but also how you feel, [which the younger generations seem to care more about,] so it’s nice to open the clients’ eyes to new possibilities for his personal look and expression.

Colour can go a long way.” salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 27

Correcting the Right Way From expert tips and techniques to time-saving hacks and tricks, we spoke with the experts for their advice on tackling pandemicrelated colour corrections.

BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

From at-home haircut mishaps to hair colour gone wrong, we’ve all seen the numerous DIY blunders throughout the pandemic.

As clients return to the salon in need of a hair rescue, many colourists are experiencing “colour correction overload” as they work to fix all the mistakes brought on by the lockdowns.

“Clients don’t necessarily understand the journey or path to get to what they want for their hair,” says Katrina Smiley, a Redken artist and former salon owner based in Kincardine, Ont. “The more processes someone has had done to their hair, the more processes it’s going to require in order to correct it. In other words, the more they play, the more time 28 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

and money they’re going to need to invest to get back to the colour they’re looking for.”

While corrective services can vary, it’s important to identify the areas that need to be corrected by starting with a thorough consultation and in-depth conversation before starting the process, to discuss the work and time involved, as well as the price.

“Sometimes it means we’re doing a decolourizing wash to shift or lighten the colour a couple of levels, and other times we’re doing a lightening service and dimensional work,” says Smiley.

“Sometimes the hair needs to be tinted or darkened if it’s too warm, and when hair is too cool, we’ll warm it up by adding brightness with an all-over glaze or permanent colour. Colour correction is an all-encompassing term, and during the pandemic colourists have seen and done it all!”

PHOTOS:GETTY STOCK, TWO TONE COLOR HAIR BY LLISOLE FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

WHAT IF My Double-Processed Blonde Clients Need a Colour Correction?

“I think double-processed blondes were some of the clients that struggled the most during the lockdowns,” says Dana Lyseng, an educator for Wella and owner of Supernova Salon in North Vancouver, B.C. “Other than grey-haired clients, they noticed and felt their roots the most and therefore they were the culprits of most ‘home jobs.’”

According to Lyseng, it took quite a bit of time and practice in her career to gain the confidence and skill to achieve a Gwen Stefani-inspired double processed blonde look, so clients are creating a lot of work for themselves (and even more work for their colourists!) when trying to dabble in the world of colouring.

“Double-processed blondes are hard to do—period—so they’re obviously hard to fix,” she says. “I know a lot of clients were trying to recreate a doubleprocessed blonde at home and do their roots so those colour corrections for us were absolutely the most challenging and the most time-consuming.”

To effectively correct doubleprocessed blonde, Lyseng says it’s important to identify all the different bands in the hair, including new growth.

“All the different bands have to be coloured individually. You’ll want to mix a lightener with a lower developer for your yellow-blonde clients, a lightener with a stronger developer for clients with some natural dark brown and a ➤

PRO TIP SINCE SOME CLIENTS ARE CONCERNED ABOUT ANOTHER SALON CLOSURE, LYSENG SUGGESTS LETTING [DOUBLEPROCESSED BLONDE] CLIENTS KNOW THEY CAN TRANSITION INTO DIMENSIONAL COLOUR—FOR EXAMPLE, A FULL HEAD OF HIGHLIGHTS WITH ROOT SHADING OF THE OLD COLOUR IN BETWEEN, FOR A MORE LOWMAINTENANCE OPTION.

After A colour correction service Sarmad Najem performed on his client in Vancouver.

Before

“ASSUME EVERYONE WALKING INTO YOUR SALON IS A NEW CLIENT. EVEN YOUR REGULAR CLIENTS MAY BE LOOKING FOR A CHANGE. THE PANDEMIC HAS TAKEN A MASSIVE EMOTIONAL AND FINANCIAL TOLL ON EVERYONE, SO MOST CLIENTS ARE WALKING IN AS A BRAND-NEW PERSON. IT’S THE PERFECT TIME FOR A FRESH START—TO START FROM ZERO WITH THEM.” — DANA LYSENG, OWNER OF SUPERNOVA SALON, NORTH VANCOUVER salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 29

After This colour correction by Dana Lyseng helped transition her client to grey—a trend among clients since the start of the pandemic.

Before

HOW DO I CHARGE? Since some colour correction services can have more unpredictable results, they can be even more difficult to price.

According to Smiley, who says she often gets asked about pricing when it comes to colour corrections, if the path is unpredictable you’re going to want to start working towards a hair goal, but you might be unsure of all the processes required to get there. “It’s important to re-examine and reanalyze as you go,” she says. “For that type of client and service, you’re going to want to give them a ‘by the hour’ price so they’re essentially paying for your time rather than the service itself.”

30 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Smiley says it’s important to pause at each stage of the process to explain what needs to happen next so together, you and your client can decide whether to proceed or pause before going to the next step. “When you’re making a really major transformation in a colour correction scenario, but the path is more predictable, then you can give clients à la carte pricing as you can specifically break down what’s required at each stage in order to get to their goal,” she says. “I like to use the consultation to break down what we need to do to set up the hair ahead of time and how we can protect the hair. I always want to be known for creating beautiful hair, but hair that is healthy as well.”

WHAT IF My Clients Insist on Touching Up Their Roots at Home?

While in many ways colour correction can bring in more money for the salon, it continues to be challenging for colourists when their clients return back to the salon with extended regrowth or after a DIY-gone-wrong that can result in their service being both twice as long and expensive.

Since some clients may continue to insist on touching up their grown-out roots at home, as their colourist it’s important to try to deter them as much as possible.

“My recommendation to clients was and is always, ‘Do nothing,’” says Lyseng. “Everybody’s got roots. It will be easier to fix extensive roots than to fix multi-tonal colour in hair. Plus, it’s expensive and we have to charge for that time.”

“I highly recommend educating your clients and explaining to them that a ‘quick fix’ at home will lead to a colour correction that is far more costly and time consuming in the salon,” adds Bx Pfeiffer, a Pravana educator and owner of Fade N Dye hair salon in Roberts Creek, B.C. “We started filming how-to videos with ideas on how to hide your roots with head scarfs and so on. Of course, we still had clients come in with DIY colour gone wrong but that’s when our skills are needed the most—not just to correct the hair but to educate our clients on why they should always seek a professional for colour.”

Pfeiffer says the most common issues with home root touch-ups she witnessed were hot roots, uneven coverage and roots that were too warm. “Depending on my canvas, I would decide whether I need to add more ash to my formula to counteract warmth, or if a pre-lightening service is necessary to lighten roots that are too dark.”

PHOTOS:GETTY STOCK, VIDEO CHAT BY ALVARO CABRERA FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, TOOTHPASTE BY AMANDA WIDJAYA FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, ADD BY JOSÉ CAMPOS FROM THE NOUN PROJECT,

PRO TIP WHILE VIRTUAL CONSULTATIONS HAVE BEEN IN HIGH DEMAND SINCE THE START OF THE PANDEMIC— ALLOWING HAIRSTYLISTS TO CONNECT WITH THEIR CLIENTS WITHOUT MASKS—SMILEY RECOMMENDS CONTINUING TO BOOK A VIRTUAL CONSULTATION WITH YOUR CLIENT AHEAD OF THEIR APPOINTMENT. NOT ONLY DOES IT ALLOW YOU TO HAVE A FACE-TO-FACE CONVERSATION ABOUT THEIR GOALS, BUT IT CAN CREATE MORE OF A CONVERSATION TO HELP THEM BETTER UNDERSTAND THE INVESTMENT INVOLVED, WHILE ENABLING YOU TO PROVIDE MORE INSTRUCTIONS IF THERE’S ANYTHING THEY SHOULD BE DOING AHEAD OF TIME TO PREPARE THEIR HAIR FOR ANY UPCOMING COLOUR SERVICES.

very gentle developer on hair that’s been fully lightened twice,” she recommends.

“You have to re-lighten the hair that was improperly lightened during a home touch-up, and then obviously still do the root, process it all and tone afterwards— potentially with a corrective toner because you might still have some banding. Double-processed blondes are very much subject to a tight timeline and maintenance so it’s definitely not the most ideal when the client can’t come to the salon frequently.”

WHAT IF My Clients Need a Major Colour Correction But Can’t Afford It or Their Hair isn’t Ready for it?

EXPRESS YOURSELF!

While some colourists will adapt their services to fit the budget of their clients, others strive for perfection and if they cannot provide it within a certain budget, they’d rather not offer the service at all. But most colourists would agree that being upfront and honest with your clients about what they’re getting into and what they require is the most important thing.

“If a client has really pigmented colour but wants to be blonde, they will likely need to spend upwards of 600 or 800 dollars,” says Sarmad Najem, a Vancouver-based hairstylist and ambassador for Matrix. “Every hair situation is so different. To fix a

Express colour services can be equally beneficial for you, your salon and your clients, allowing you to make a bit of extra money in a time-crunch, without sacrificing the results of your client’s service or hair.

“I like doing a treatment during each stage of the technical application. It’s a luxurious experience for the client, especially at the end of their colour service once their colour goal has been achieved. A backbar moisture treatment is a great and quick add-on service that leaves the hair really silky and soft after having a lot of different things done to it.” — Katrina Smiley, global Redken artist, Kincardine, Ont. “When I have a client coming for a blow-out, I still have to wash the hair first and at that point I’ll start talking to the client. If her blonde hair is looking dull or brassy, I would suggest a toning service. A 50-dollar blowout can now cost 110 dollars just by spending an extra five minutes on her.” — Sarmad Najem, Matrix global ambassador, Vancouver “I provide quick services to my clients in the form of [express toning services] that only take five to 20 minutes. I apply the toner at the sink, so it’s an easy add-on service to refresh colour in between services.”

— Bx Pfeiffer, owner of Fade N Dye hair salon, Roberts Creek, B.C. “I have a colour menu in my salon that can be pieced together in different ways to cater to the client’s exact needs. These days, clients are walking in with inspiration in the form of Instagram photos that require more than one service to achieve and it’s hard to have those coupled services when running a cost-effective business. I like to have an à la carte menu so the client and colourist can piece together exactly what the client needs, and they can create bespoke colour services— anything from an express ‘15-minute foils à la carte service’ (charging per foil) to a ‘tone and blow,’ an express toning service to maintain tonality during the blow-out.”

—Dana Lyseng, owner of Supernova Salon in North Vancouver, B.C

problem, you have to look at the hair first and see how and where you can take the client and see the health of their hair. If the client has too much colour in the hair or it’s severely damaged, I just won’t lighten it. Sometimes, I tell my clients there’s nothing I can do until the hair gets some health restored. If her hair is damaged, you have to explain what you can and can’t do for her.”

When it comes to pandemic-related colour corrections, Najem says he’s been spending approximately 15 to 20 minutes talking to each of his clients as soon as they walk into the salon.

“Together, you have to come up with an idea about how you’ll work with the hair,” he says. “You have to be honest with your clients, especially when they show you a picture of where they want to get to, but you know it’s unrealistic.

The best thing I tell my clients is that they’re not paying for the colour, they’re paying for the service because we can’t guarantee how the hair [after at-home services] is going to react. Be careful not to promise something that you don’t know you can do or if you’re not sure how it will turn out. They’ll appreciate the transparency.”

PRO TIP NAJEM SUGGESTS TRYING TO UPSELL ADD-ONS TO AT LEAST THREE CLIENTS PER DAY, WHICH CAN ALLOW YOU TO MAKE UPWARDS OF AN EXTRA 200 DOLLARS (INCLUDING TIP).

After Before

Colour Corner

PRAVANA Color Enhancers Pfeiffer likes to send her clients home with Color Enhancers, colour-depositing conditioners that are available in a variety of colours so that they can preserve the vibrancy of their new colour.

Matrix SoColor Sync Najem suggests using Matrix SoColor Sync, a five-minute toner that is great for express toning and allows you and your client to see instant results.

Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Smiley enjoys using this three-step system to restore the pH balance and quality of the hair strands, which will create a cleaner canvas for better colour results.

Wella Color Touch Lyseng uses this demi-permanent line for everything from full-blown colour corrections to services that just need subtle lift or movement, since she says it offers great coverage and saturation, and is available in a whole portfolio of colours.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 31

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FINDING THE PERFECT MATCH Want to create your clients’ best colour ever? These expert tips will help you determine their most flattering shade.

PHOTOS: TK

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

When it comes to changing hair colour, we all know social media can factor into a client’s decision. From seeing their favourite celebrity to a stunning before-and-after transformation, inspiration that sparks a colour change can come from many different directions and outlets.

While the possibilities for hair shades are truly infinite, let’s face it: Not every option works for everyone. The colour a client sees looking great on someone may look that way because it’s flattering on that person.

“The three most important things to consider during a colour consultation are skin tone, eye colour and maintenance,” says Jenna Engel, an educator for Joico and owner of Plush Salon & Spa in Medicine Hat, Alta. ➤ salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 33

34 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Cool For “cool” clients with blue undertones, it’s all about neutralizing red or pink hues in their skin while embracing icy, cold tones in their hair.

under the eyes.” — Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal “If they are naturally a level seven or eight, you want to make sure that when you’re lifting to get to that blonde, you’re not leaving them at that level. If they have cool skin, you don’t want to give them something that’s too warm. You’ll lift to a certain point and tone down or up, depending. Something more like a platinum or silvery blonde is better for a cooler skin tone.” — Krysten-Ashley Garrod, hairstylist at Studio Fontana and Goldwell national guest artist, Toronto

Brunettes

“A cooler chestnut or mushroom brown is a great option for cooler skin tones.”

— Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

Blondes

“If a client has a cool skin tone, ash/cool tones will look best. Cool undertones suit champagne, violet and silver blondes.” — Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

“Very light, cooler blondes can look darker because of their ashy or iridescent undertones. Just remember that iridescent tones may not suit older women because they can enhance any dark spots or circles

“A money piece is something a lot of people are still asking for. You can juxtapose a warmer option to give the skin tone more light, but I suggest working in an ashier tone as a brunette to cool things down so the client doesn’t feel too warm.” — Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal “Cool shades can be beautiful on a client, but any redness and irritation of the skin can look more obvious if the palette is too similar to their skin tone. If someone is very pale, I’m cautious about choosing a colour that’s too cool for their skin because it can make them look drained.” — Quinn Enright, technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, Edmonton, Alta.

PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK, SELFIE BY ZIDNEY FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

“You need to choose a shade to complement your guest’s skin tone rather than have it contrast, which could bring out the harshest elements in both the skin and the hair.”

To begin, you’ll want to determine whether your client has a warm, cool or neutral skin tone. If you’re having trouble with this, you can look at the veins in their arm to see if they have a greener (warm) or bluer (cool) tint or both (neutral), which is a trick used by makeup artists. You can also have a conversation about the common colours in their wardrobe and/or the tone of jewelry (gold or silver) they prefer wearing to figure out which shades they gravitate toward.

Another way to discover their most flattering tones is to use your swatch book. “I always teach my apprentices to hold the colour swatches up against the clients’ skin,” says Engel. “You will instantly see which colours look better against the skin tone and your client will love to see it, too.”

“I usually grab my colour book and pull the client’s hair back and put some pieces on her forehead,” adds Geneviève Grenier, owner of Azur Salon & Spa in Thetford Mines, Que., and an Oligo Professionnel creative team member. “I put some strong colours on their face to see how it reacts with their eyes.

It’s really impressive how you can see the colour of your client change with their skin tone, especially when you have daylight coming through your salon. In that moment, clients will also notice a difference on how their face looks compared to the colour, and it will help you decide on the direction to go in.”

Brunettes

Warm For clients with a warmer skin tone, your palette will want to complement their golden or yellow undertones while not making them look (or feel) too warm or brassy.

Blondes

“Warm and gold undertones are best suited to caramel and honey blondes. It’s best to stay away from any ash tones as they can make the skin look very washed out.” – Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

PRO TIP IF A CLIENT IS SHOWING YOU PHOTOS—OF CELEBRITIES OR FROM SOCIAL MEDIA—TRY FINDING SIMILAR PHOTOS OF PEOPLE WITH A SIMILAR SKIN TONE AS YOUR CLIENT TO HELP THEM ENVISION WHAT THE COLOUR WILL LOOK LIKE ON THEM.

“If the client has a lot of warmth in their skin, I try to control the look of warmth and not enhance it. I avoid colours that are too similar to the skin tone because their features get lost and it can wash them out, especially for blondes. I love working with lots of dimension and playing with pinks, nudes, beiges and ginger blondes for warmer complexions.

— Quinn Enright, technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, Edmonton, Alta.

“Ashy tones on warm skin can make a person look 10 years older because it does nothing for their skin tone. You’ll want to go with something that’s a bit warmer to neutralize those unwanted tones; something that’s more of a honey or copper is going to make them look glowing, tanned and radiant. Small things like that can make a huge difference.”

— Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal

“Olive skin tones look great with a bronde colour, so mixing a chocolate brown with honey highlights would be a great option.” – Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

“For warmer skin, you’ll want to stay within warmer tones to help the skin pop and glow. A champagne or golden blonde is a better choice, but really, it’s whatever makes them pop.”

— Krysten-Ashley Garrod, hairstylist at Studio Fontana and Goldwell national guest artist, Toronto

“There’s a huge smoky hair trend going on right now, which I just think is a trendy term for neutralized brunettes. For someone with an olive or deeper warm skin tone, who wants to go for more of an ashy brown but doesn’t have a skin tone to suit that, we can use the base colour around her face with something not as ashy, and work some balayage in with the ends that’s more neutralizing. That way she gets her ‘coolness’ but with more warmth around her face that will complement her complexion much better.”

— Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal

“Work in warmer colours with different shades in the hair so it won’t look too warm or brassy. Use different shades so the light will reflect differently and create something really rich rather than appear too warm without any dimension.”

— Geneviève Grenier, owner of Azur Salon & Spa and Oligo creative team member, Thetford Mines, Que.

“It’s all about dimension.

If it’s too monochromatic, it can look very dull. I like creating combinations when I’m working with brunettes because it will create more life in the colour. You don’t want their skin and hair colour to look the same.”

— Quinn Enright, technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, Edmonton, Alta.

Did You Know?

The more porous the hair, the more it will reject warmth. It’s one of the reasons why golden and honey blondes can be more difficult to achieve, so adding dimension can help you maintain the overall look and feel of a warmer tone.

“For someone who’s a typical level six brunette that might still want some pop, but don’t necessarily want a highlight or a lowlight, I love adding a few lowlights throughout at the same level, using Elumen to create a ton of shine. They almost feel like they got a highlight, even though it’s just shine.” — Krysten-Ashley Garrod, hairstylist at Studio Fontana and Goldwell national guest artist, Toronto ➤

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 35

For clients with both warm and cool undertones, the options are seemingly endless as you can choose to go with either shade (or a combination of the two).

Blondes

“Icy, iridescent or ashy blondes that are on the warmer side can complement a paler, more neutral skin tone. But if you put something that’s too iridescent on someone with a paler cool to neutral skin tone, they’ll look like a ghost. You’ll want something that’s neutralizing the skin tone to balance things out.”

— Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal “Neutral tones can wear almost anything. The biggest thing to discuss during the consultation is the maintenance. For anyone with level five or darker regrowth, a platinum

blonde may look amazing with their skin tone, but the maintenance might not be something they’re willing to keep up with.” — KrystenAshley Garrod, hairstylist at Studio Fontana and Goldwell national guest artist, Toronto “Neutral complexions are beautiful with warm and cool combinations. My favourite is champagne cinnamon or muted cashew, because they’re a combination of warm and cool, which is nice for neutral skin tones since they can wear both.

When you combine both you get really beautiful tones.”

— Quinn Enright, technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, Edmonton, Alta.

“Light, fair or pale skin best complement strawberry or platinum blonde tones.

Honey blonde can be in the neutral to warmer tones, but we have so many shades that are available or that we can mix [and customize].”

— Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

“I FEEL LIKE ANYONE CAN BE A BLONDE, BRUNETTE OR REDHEAD, BUT THERE ARE CERTAIN COLOURS THAT WILL MAKE PEOPLE GLOW AND SHINE WHEN THEY WALK INTO A ROOM, SO THEY ARE WEARING THE HAIR VERSUS THE HAIR WEARING THEM.” — KRYSTEN-ASHLEY GARROD, HAIRSTYLIST AT STUDIO FONTANA AND GOLDWELL NATIONAL GUEST ARTIST, TORONTO

36 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

Brunettes

“I’m a really big fan of blending colours and having a seamless blend from root to end, whether you’re going from darker to lighter or a matte finish to something shinier. It creates more dimension or pop around the face.” — Krysten-Ashley Garrod, hairstylist at Studio Fontana and Goldwell national guest artist, Toronto “Playing around with different tones and working with warm and cool together will satisfy the client and make her skin tone pop more.” — Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal

“Neutral undertones can typically rock any hair colour, however, chestnut brown looks especially rich and vibrant against these tones.”

— Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

“Combining warm and cool is huge in our industry because that’s what gives that modern, muted look.

I love using Schwarzkopf Professional’s tbh colour because the palette has a lot of combinations of warm and cool together; the warm shades are never brassy and cool shades are never dark and muddy. It respects the hair’s natural identity, so it keeps the natural highs and lows so it looks like it’s curated for the client.”

— Quinn Enright, technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, Edmonton, Alta.

PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, COLOR FAN BY DAN HETTEIX FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Neutral

Redheads While some hairstylists may find red hair to be more complicated, it’s about identifying the differences in tones and finding the one to enhance your client’s complexion.

MUST-HAVE

Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Blender For a more seamless blending experience, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Colour Blender is an innovative new tool that allows you to blend multiple colours with saturation from roots to ends, without creating any dreaded demarcation lines.

Created by the brand’s global colour ambassador, Lesley Jennison, the angled sponge is similar to those used in makeup for contouring, but features a convenient handle for a messfree application.

“Paler skin with green or yellow hues can suit reds really well. Sometimes it’s not about going the opposite of their skin tone but about complementing it with a similar colour. Redheads are an exception.” — Matt Waldron, hairstylist and colourist at Orbite and L’Oréal Professionnel colour ambassador, Montreal “For cool reds, there’s mahogany, burgundy or purple-red, but if you have more of an olive skin tone, it may not look as appealing.

There are more golden and orange reds, so it’s about finding the right shade of red that will complement your client’s skin tone.”

— Geneviève Grenier, owner of Azur Salon & Spa and Oligo creative team member, Thetford Mines, Que.

“Natural redheads follow the same rules. If they have cool undertones, cooler reds/coppers/blondes look best. If they have warmer undertones, golden tones would be best.” – Jenna Engel, owner of Plush Salon & Spa and Joico educator, Medicine Hat, Alta.

PRO TIP TO HELP HAIR POP WITHOUT IT LOOKING TOO MONOCHROMATIC AGAINST THEIR SKIN TONE, CONSIDER GOING TWO LEVELS LIGHTER OR DARKER SO IT DOESN’T WASH THEM OUT.

Getting Technical To bring your client’s colour alive, experimenting with techniques can help you find new and exciting ways to customize their shade. After all, creating a more bespoke service can help foster client loyalty, and that will keep them coming back to you time and time again.

Waldron recommends the French Balayage approach, which is a professional two-step technique from L’Oréal Professionnel for lightening and glossing hair, creating more natural-looking results that cannot be replicated at home.

For lightening, hair is hand-painted and personalized to the client’s hair type and a nourishing gloss tailored to the client’s colour is then applied, which helps neutralize warmth and adds a high-gloss shine.

“French balayage is something I specialize in and do on most of my clients,” says Waldron. “It’s the art of freehand painting hair rather than foil highlights and can be an openair or closed, finished with a gloss to tone the hair. Once a client gets a balayage, she’ll have a hard time going back to foils because the growout is much more natural looking.”

“Even if your client is coming in for a root touch-up, if you want to add a bit of sunshine to her hair, you can paint her roots, add a few faceframing pieces or layers to create multidimensional colour and then gloss it,” Waldron adds. “It will take five or 10 minutes longer, upsell and increase the bill, and the client feels like they have something more personalized for them that they can’t do themselves at home. Even if it’s only two or three little extra pieces, that’s the essence of us being able to give them more than what they can get on their own.”

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 37

HELPING HELPING WOMEN WOMEN WITH WITH CANCER CANCER FEEL FEEL LIKE LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN THEMSELVES AGAIN With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in Withlifetime, 1 in 2 women facing cancer diagnosis their you can help athe women in your in life their lifetime, you can help the women in your through the Look Good Feel Better workshop. life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

Our complimentary workshops help women Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact learn to manage theTopics appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. include skincare, of cancer treatment.

Topics and include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives breast care. cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

Even more, the small-group format allows for Even more,and the sharing small-group format allows for connection between women going connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience. through a similar experience.

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive careyou workshop – available in-person Tell a woman love about the LGFB and online. For information, visit lgfb.ca. supportive caremore workshop – available in-person and online. For more information, visit lgfb.ca.

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering contact Crawford To find outwith howLGFB, you can have Dota an impact by at dcrawford@lgfb.ca. partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca.

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May

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 39

Collections — COIL

Eye-catching colour combines with striking shapes in this Canadian collection.

CONTESSA 2021 FINALIST, CANADIAN SALON TEAM Salon Pure, Montreal MAKEUP Alexandre Deslauriers and Richard St Laurent WARDROBE STYLING Florence O. Durand PHOTOS Brian Ypperciel

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salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 41

Collections — GEMS

Inspired by the natural phenomenon of gems, this Ukrainian collection’s cuts, texture and colour embody femininity, strength and style.

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HAIR Viktoriia Vradii, Le Salon VRV, Ukraine MAKEUP Evgeniya Spiktorenki WARDROBE STYLING Irina Dzhus PHOTOS Tony Le-Britton salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 43

Collections — POP

This Australian collection of bold colours, clean lines and dramatic patterns is giving us highenergy ’90s vibes.

HAIR ELEVEN Education Team, Australia MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole WARDROBE STYLING Karly Brown PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole

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salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 45

Collections — MEMENTO AUDERE SEMPER

With striking cuts and muted hues, this British collection showcasing strong, powerful women is both empowering and inspiring.

HAIR Daniele De Angelis, TONI&GUY, London COLOUR Stuart Matuska and Charley Hanery MAKEUP Lan Nguyen-Grealis, Kelly Mendiola, Carrie Leanne Jess WARDROBE STYLING Dr. Manrutt Wongkaew and Sara Dunn PHOTOS Kevin Luchmun, Jack Eames 46 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 47

Collections — LOTUS

With structured cuts, rich colour and textured styles, this South African collection is the epitome of modern elegance.

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HAIR Candice McKay, Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering, South Africa MAKEUP Lynn Kendedy WARDROBE STYLING Thomas Van Dyk PHOTOS Justin Dingwall salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 49

Collections — COLOUR CRAZE

Filled with dramatic ‘dos and bold colour, this collection gives retroinspired styles a modern edge.

50 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

CONTESSA 2021 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. MAKEUP Jessica Benner WARDROBE STYLING Nicole Pede PHOTOS Paula Tizzard salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 51

Collections — CHROMATIC UNIVERSE

Complete with linear and symmetrical cuts and rich colour, this Mexican collection radiates masterful precision and technique.

52 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

HAIR Ivan Rodriguez, El Salón Hairdressing Club, Mexico MAKEUP Thessa Peralta WARDROBE STYLING Melissa Webb PHOTOS Jesús Herrera salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 53

PRESENTED BY

REIGNITE YOUR

PASSION ENTRY DEADLINE SEPTEMBER 8, 2021

NEW RULE CHANGES! FIND OUT MORE AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA #ContessaAwards

Contessa Gallery — FINALIST, 2021 MASTER COLOURIST OF THE YEAR

Jennifer Vermeer Although she’s been in the industry for nearly 25 years, Jennifer Vermeer seems to have an endless supply of creativity and passion that’s coupled with a desire to continually learn and grow in her abilities.

In addition to being a long-time Goldwell Creative Team member and national guest artist for the brand, Vermeer opened Fascinature, her salon in Hamilton, Ont., six years ago to create a more intimate atmosphere.

“I’ve created a family-style environment where all my clients can sit beside each other and spark great conversation,”

56 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

she says. “Over the years, I’ve learned that my clients really love that smallspace vibe.”

Aside from running her salon, Vermeer enjoys creative work and competing in the Contessas. “During COVID, I needed something; a small piece of normalcy,” she says. “Although it was different [due to the pandemic], entering Contessa felt like the most normal thing I was able to do all year and the experience was amazing.”

Street Style Vermeer placed as a finalist for her Master Colourist entry, which was a previously-entered collection that was allowed to be re-entered, thanks to the Contessa’s Second Chance rule. “This

Look and Feel Good Vermeer says she wanted her collection to portray beauty, confidence and selfesteem. “Working with colour gives me a freedom I can’t quite explain,” she says.

“I don’t colour hair—I build rainbows in peoples’ self-esteem. As stylists, we are working on millions of strands that make up how one person feels about themself. Each piece is important to the next. Colouring is all by design and literally every strand matters.”

According to Vermeer, all the women from her photo shoot walked away loving their hair and not one of them wanted it changed, and that was exactly what Vermeer was hoping to achieve. Not only to create a beautiful, competition-ready collection, but to make women feel good about themselves.

Balance is Key Although Vermeer still enjoys doing hair, she says the pandemic has changed the way she feels about her profession and the way she views the industry. “I finally understand work-life balance,” she says.

“I’m done with 14-hour workdays (once I catch up from being closed down).

As much as I want to be there for my clients, I also need to be there for myself and my son.”

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: DOUG MCMILLAN, KALE FRIESON. KYLE GREE

collection was one that utilized many hands,” she says. “These three images represented the first time I just let the hair dictate where my colours would go.

I didn’t have any preconceived notions or plans. I let the lift be the guide and choose the colours for me.”

Vermeer says the inspiration behind the collection was street hair. “You know that hair you see the edgy youth wearing? They walk around with these crazy hot roots or accidentally blended colours and you stare at it, just trying to figure out how the colouring mistakes they made became this incredible canvas,” she says. “I love street hair; I’ve always got my eye on it!”

“I don’t just colour hair, I build rainbows in people’s self-esteem.”

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 57

Find out the new, easy way to build, grow and maximize your salon’s e-commerce sales.

Retail and take-home sales have always been an integral part of the salon industry. In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, which has triggered several lengthy shutdowns, it’s been an eyeopener for many on just how important these sales can be for your business.

While some salons focused primarily on curbside pickup, others decided to invest in their own e-commerce sites to be able to sell and deliver products directly to their clients. While both are feasible options and have been effective in meeting clients’ needs, some salon owners simply don’t have the time (or the means) to build or upgrade their website to accommodate e-commerce capabilities, or carry a large inventory and ship out orders.

With these issues in mind, professional beauty distributors Alternative Beauty Services and Maritime Beauty Supply have stepped up to help by implementing online consumer stores. A business-toconsumer program that rewards salon professionals with sales commissions, it allows them to serve their clients while taking care of product fulfillment on the salon’s behalf.

“Our online store program provides salon owners with an invaluable way of connecting with their guests in between visits,” says Sean Coyle, who co-owns Alternative Beauty Services with business partner, Tony Marinaccio.

“This has been particularly critical for the thousands of salons struggling to survive during the lockdown. Our objective has 58 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

been to make the online store program simply an extension of our retail business with our salon customers.”

Rather than having clients purchase products from traditional retailers or large online websites, salon owners and hairstylists can encourage their clients to buy local and visit their salon’s website to show their support. The purchasing process is similar to in-salon retailing and/or an e-commerce site but with less work required for the salons.

Partner Up More salon owners have started partnering with their local distributors to ship orders more efficiently, which has not only saved them time and energy, it’s also benefitted clients while helping salons generate more revenue.

Sherri Wilfong, owner of Hair by Fusion, a salon in Peterborough, Ont., was approached by Alternative Beauty Services, which is based in Mississauga, Ont., to start using their business-toconsumer program after the province’s first salon shutdown. While the concept was still new at the time, it didn’t take long for Wilfong to realize the benefits.

“We said yes and it’s a good thing we did because they’ve helped us make so many sales,” she says. “Half of those sales are from people who have never been in our salon, so we’re able to reach a much wider audience than if we were selling through our own website.”

According to Peter Alexander, general manager of Maritime Beauty Supply and CoastalBeauty.ca, an e-commerce platform that helps salons and spas earn a commission when products are

“THIS IS OUR EFFORT TO PRESERVE OUR INDUSTRY’S PROFESSIONAL RETAIL PRODUCT REVENUE. WITHOUT THIS SERVICE, RETAIL PRODUCT SALES WILL BE GOBBLED UP BY ALL THE BIG ONLINE CORPORATIONS THAT ARE SELLING DIRECTLY TO CONSUMERS.” – PETER ALEXANDER, GENERAL MANAGER, MARITIME BEAUTY SUPPLIES AND COASTALBEAUTY.CA sold to their clients, while some salons did not opt to focus on retail during the pandemic, many salons saw the value and opportunity to generate some extra (and much-needed) revenue to help cover operating costs. Because of this, he figured it was the perfect time to help

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: GETTYSTOCK

Business —

Setting Up Shop

salons renew their commitment to the benefits of retail products.

“At first, I wasn’t sure it would work for us, but now I can officially say it’s been an added bonus,” says Karine Lajoie, owner of Five Zero Six Salon in Moncton, N.B. “They’ve helped relieve the cost of inventory, as they have everything our clients need, which isn’t always possible with in-salon retail.

Their service has also made our retail accessible 24/7, so our clients are able to order products at any time.”

The Moncton-based hair salon is now one of approximately 500 salons that utilize Coastal Beauty’s platform, which Alexander says has become an instant hit since it enables beauty professionals to offer their clients “a branded online shopping experience.” Not only does the site offer an abundance of information about the professional products it features, purchasing items is easy and delivery is generally very prompt. And with a one-time sign-up fee, which depends on the amount of support and marketing materials they want (or need), salon owners can begin selling their products and making a 15 to 20 per cent commission on every product sold.

How It Works Both Wilfong and Lajoie say their distribution partners have created a seamless process of offering e-commerce while allowing salon owners to run their business without having to worry about inventory and order fulfilment. Each of these factors have been particularly helpful when returning to the salon after numerous lockdowns and trying to catch up on their appointments and scheduling.

Before joining the program, Wilfong attempted to create her own e-commerce site, which she candidly admits was a lot of work and extremely time-consuming, especially when it came to packing and delivering orders herself and updating her website. When Alternative Beauty approached her with the opportunity, she figured the energy and time she would save would be worth it, without realizing she would be making more money from it, as well.

“I have a link that clients can click and see my specific page and logo,” she says.

“I’m getting compensated the same way I would be when selling products in the

salon, but I don’t have the overhead of carrying all the products and being worried that only some will sell, and others won’t. Although I’m paying a monthly fee [for the service], I’m making back what I’m spending tenfold.”

Other than a monthly hosting fee, which includes promotional materials and enables salon owners to receive a full profit margin on everything they sell, Coyle says there are no additional costs for the salon owner, and the online experience for their clients is completely transparent. “The guest can access the online store via the salon website with no hoops to jump though and no need for any special codes,” he says. “From the guest’s perspective, the online store is seamlessly integrated with the salon website. The revenue is received directly through the salon website with the salon owner receiving their regular profit margin. This ultimately will create more income and business value for the salon owner as our goal is to continue to drive business to the salon’s digital platform and improve engagement.”

Win-Win-Win According to Wilfong, having a successful retail business is incredibly beneficial to hairstylists and to their clients. “We’re offering professional services to our clients and they have to be willing to maintain that with professional products,” says Wilfong.

“Retailing and education is so important because otherwise some clients would spend five dollars on shampoo after paying 200 dollars on a colour service, which is literally washing your new colour down the drain.”

“Salon retail is important to the vitality of our industry,” adds Alexander.

“These are the products that solve clients’ hair needs and challenges.”

While both Alexander and Wilfong believe in the power of retail and the benefits it presents for hairstylists and clients, Coyle believes partnering with a

distributor can help simplify the process and make it more advantageous for all parties involved. “The main priority for salon owners and stylists is providing their guests with an amazing experience and a look they want to show the world,” says Coyle. “It’s far easier for them to meet that objective in a salon that is well managed, staffed with talented and highly motivated stylists, and offering the best products in the industry.”

“We believe distributors have an obligation to promote our industry and provide salon owners and stylists with the education and tools they need to provide great service and build a prosperous business,” he adds. “Our platform will give independent salons the ability to compete profitably in the fast-growing online world of retail while also leveraging it to increase guest count and client loyalty.”

Not only is offering retail to clients via a distributor’s online consumer store an easier way for salon owners to earn money during lockdown(s), it also encourages clients to support local while saving the salon so much time. “Since we handle the shipment of all orders directly to the guest for the salon, the salon owner does not have to worry about carrying additional inventory or managing the logistics of shipping products,” says Coyle. “That is our expertise, and it enables salon owners and stylists to keep their focus solely on their guests and their art.”

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 59

Profile — TRACEY CUNNINGHAM

True Calling As the go-to colourist for Hollywood’s A-list, including Jennifer Lopez, Charlize Theron and Khloe Kardashian, Tracey Cunningham is known for doing things her own way. From working behind the chair in her Beverly Hills salon to her role as a brand ambassador for Olaplex and Redken to being the author of her own book, nothing is slowing her down—and she hopes to keep it that way.

You grew up in Seattle before moving to Los Angeles, where you’ve become known for your work with celebrities. Is this surprising to you, or is it something you always knew you would be doing?

It’s so funny because I wasn’t a girl with a plan, but nothing is shocking to me.

I’ve worked so hard and it organically happened this way. I was never sitting around going, “I hope I get a celebrity.”

I just started getting them and I was very lucky. I built my career before the internet, so it was all by word of mouth and that’s really amazing because you’re getting clients based on your work and not a filter [on social media].

People look at me and think I’m living the life when really, I’m a slave [to my craft]. My life is so envious, but I don’t even have a life. People like me work the hardest, and we always will. I really work hard, and I don’t just do celebrities. I work hard for everyone.

I understand that it’s important to you to treat your clients like family. Would you say that’s your secret to working with celebrities and building a loyal clientele?

I try to treat all my clients the same, and I guess I’m so personable with them because I’ve had them all for so long, so it just feels natural.

There’s no secret [to working with celebrities]. You can’t make a plan 60 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

where you say, “I’m going to work with celebrities,” and go out and fish for them; that’s not how it works. With the internet, you can really do well on Instagram and get celebrities [interested in your work].

I think Instagram has become your new resume. When our receptionist talks to someone who wants to come to the salon and they tell them that I don’t take new clients but want to recommend someone else, they’ll ask them to look at their Instagram [feeds] and call back to see who they like. Your staff needs to take their Instagram seriously.

Any tips for hairstylists who are trying to build their social media presence and following?

Just try to show your best work. Style the hair amazingly and make sure it looks appealing. If you notice, most people do the same thing; they create waves because colour looks better in a wave than in straight hair.

To be honest, I’m not great at social media. It’s changing all the time and I talk to these young kids who get down about their number of followers. It’s

hard, and it’s a little bit like high school.

I’ll gather a bunch of my staff to see everybody’s Instagram; most of it has been at Coachella, partying with their friends and hanging out. Someone might have a before and after photo and I’ll be like, “Yes, that’s what I’m looking for!” Have a separate Instagram for your private life but try to build your career [with your professional account].

We actually hired someone from [Newfoundland, based on his Instagram]. This guy, Chris Greene, showed up [at the salon] and was like, “Hey Tracey, I just wanted to say hi.

We follow each other on Instagram.” I remembered him because I do follow a lot of my followers and people who are really engaged with me and was excited to meet him. He was so sweet and said he would love a job and introduced himself to my business partner, Neil Weisberg. Chris would come to the salon a few times a year and just sort of became our friend. One day, Neil said, “I think we should give him a chance,” and we did. I used him in a chapter in my book on how to have a good Instagram.

PHOTOS: TRACEY CUNNINGHAM, ABRAMS IMAGE

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

As an ambassador for Olaplex and Redken, what do you most enjoy about your role? What’s important to you when partnering with a brand?

I love the support I get, and the way they listen to me. If I ask for a product, they make it. It’s great for them to be this amazing company, but you have to listen to what hairdressers need.

[When working with a brand,] I have to like the product. I’m not a bullshitter and can’t sit there and go, “I love this product!” if I don’t.

What has your experience been like during the pandemic?

It’s been horrible, but I think this has also taught people to relax. As bad as the pandemic has been, it’s also somehow good. Whenever I say I want things to go back to how they were, I don’t really mean it, but I would like to see at least 15 people a day. It’s kind of my social life, too. It’s so fun being in the salon— it’s like a party!

Treating her clients like family, Tracey Cunningham has built long-lasting friendships with many of her celebrity clientele.

Congratulations on your book, True Color. Tell us about that.

It’s basically a book about my life, but it’s also about the history of hair colour and all the different things you need to know, like what’s in the water that can make your colour dull, as well as nutrition, hair balding, and topics like how to be a good assistant and getting to the next level when you’re working behind the chair. It’s photo-packed because even though it’s an easy read, people don’t just want to sit and read—they want to look at pictures, too.

I have a lot of celebrities who gave me their baby photos, so we also talk about your “true colour.” What is the colour you were born with? The first thing that happens in your anti-age journey is that you lose your highlights, and then you want your highlights back. That’s why it’s this billion-dollar business. I have a page called “Better Than Botox” because highlights are better than Botox.

That seems to relate to your “less is more” approach, which is something that seems quite popular right now.

“Less is more” has always been my thing, and I think people can go overboard [with colour], but nothing is prettier to me than a brunette. When they want highlights, I don’t want them to become a blonde. It’s good to preserve the integrity of your client’s natural base and colour, and sometimes I’ll look at somebody and think that their hair is so awful on them. That’s when I’ll go above and beyond “less is more.” But I do think the “less is more” approach is a good rule to stick with; you’re never too far from what you should be.

What advice do you have for colourists right now? Is there anything that you’re noticing people may be struggling with as salons reopen?

“Should I stay or should I go?” is what a lot of staff have been asking themselves during the pandemic. People think they can make so much money working on their own, but the truth of the matter is that [when operating] at 25 per cent [capacity], we can’t have all staff working at once; most people can only work one or two days a week. I’m telling people to work one or two days a week [in the salon] to keep your foot in the door. Every single person who left my salon can stay away. I feel like I booked them with all these clients, but now they’re going to take them and just do them from home? It’s not fair.

It’s good to stay loyal to the people who built you. Also, clients are not going to want [in-home hair services] forever. At some point, everyone is going to want to go back to the salon. The salon is a happy place.

To find out the top three things Tracey Cunningham can’t live without in her colour kit, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 61

North American drive meets European flair at Oligo Professionnel’s open-concept salon in the heart of Montreal.

BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

Located in historic Old Montreal, La Maison De La Couleur Oligo is housed in a building built in 1846 that was once home to three storehouses. After several years of sitting abandoned, it was eventually renovated in 1997 and has since hosted numerous tenants, including a few salons. Most recently—in March 2020—it’s become the spacious and stunning flagship salon for Oligo Professionnel, the Montreal-based colour brand.

“You can definitely tell that this space has history,” says Ilan Cohen, salon owner and president of Oligo Professionnel. “We wanted to keep the Old Montreal vibe inside and out, but we did add a few modern touches. The contrast between the wood floors and modern accents is an attractive combo.”

Open Mind, Open Space While taking over the space after a salon made the transition and renovations that much easier—it had been designed with the proper wiring, plumbing and styling stations in mind— Cohen says the space and location was always Oligo’s first choice. “Old Montreal has so much history and we absolutely love those signature, narrow cobblestone streets that are full of lively plazas and charming shops and cafes,” he says. “Our salon is located on a busy street with an amazing

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stone wall, so this location was definitely perfect for us.”

While the “bones” of the space were kept intact, Cohen says they still wanted to make their own small adjustments.

“We wanted to keep the space very open, so we eliminated the walls the previous tenants had put up,” he says. “This way, you can see the entire salon when you first walk in. We also moved the stations from the middle of the salon to the front next to the windows. The stylists love the natural lighting, and we attract a lot of new clientele this way!”

Sleek Design When it comes to the design, Cohen says La Maison De La Couleur Oligo is a salon with a clean look and the ideal combination of old and new. “We chose a neutral palette, and our objective was to make the place feel cozy while keeping it simple and clean,” he says.

“The large open space and our natural lighting truly sets our salon apart. The contrast between history and modern design is also prominent and gives an all-over trendy vibe to the space.”

While Oligo is known for its wide range of colour lines and products, the

PHOTOS: LINO CIPRESSO

Interiors — LA MAISON DE LA COULEUR OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL

Colour House

DETAILS March 2020 DESIGN Aki Hliaras at AH Design Studio SPACE 3,000 square feet TEAM 8 stylists INSTAGRAM @maison_oligo

company’s statement colour is a classic.

“We kept the furniture very simple and used black, which is the Oligo signature shade,” says Cohen. “The dark furniture pops out very nicely against the white walls without being too overpowering.”

Although most of the furniture is black, they sourced local art from Montrealbased mix media pop artist Lindsay Sacks to help brighten the area. “Her art is very colourful, so it adds a nice pop to our waiting area,” says Cohen.

“We also give main real estate to our retail sections, where we sell Oligo Professionnel products exclusively. The products themselves act as décor and with the art on the walls and the plants being the only other colours in the salon, they stand out quite nicely.”

Get Educated In addition to offering cut and colour services, La Maison De La Couleur is also home to the Oligo Professionnel Academy—a place designed to elevate and inspire the brand’s guest stylists from around the world.

Although the COVID-19 pandemic has paused live, in-person education, Cohen says he looks forward to hosting artists again soon. “We’re patiently waiting for the day we can welcome stylists again in Montreal, but in the meantime, we’re working on an educational program that will be exclusive to our academy,” he says. “All of our new products are currently being tested at our salon and our stylists get to try everything firsthand!”

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Events —

Inside Matrix Synergy 2021!

The two-day Matrix Synergy global event kicked off with a captivating show opener to unveil the brand’s latest mission: Present as a company founded by a hairstylist and created for hairstylists to think, believe, dream and dare. While the opening day focused on the brand’s mission, the second day was all about education, consisting of more than 30 virtual and interactive education sessions from top artists around the globe.

When: March 1-2

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| Matrix’s global artistic director, Michelle O’Connor, led a four-part series on understanding and embracing all hair types, while sharing her expertise on textured hair to promote diversity in the beauty industry and help stylists expand their client base.

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Montreal-based hairstylist and Canadian artistic director for Matrix, Rodrigo Araneda took to the “Dare Stage” to talk about colour blocking and share haircutting techniques.

Known for his blonding techniques and seamless blends, Vancouverbased hairstylist Sarmad Najem shared tips on creating the teasylights trend, along with how to achieve the perfect blonde on all curl patterns. Plus, he shared some savvy business tips on how to be booked for months in advance and the best ways to leverage social media.

PHOTOS: SALON STAFF; JAMIE MANN

Australian hairstylist and business guru Tabatha Coffey offered up some real talk in her “Boss Camp” series— sharing tips on how to get started in the industry, the differences between a profession and a hobby, knowing your worth, and the keys to the right attitude and mindset.

Events —

A Breakdown of the 2021 ISSE Digital Experience The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) hosted its first-ever ISSE Digital Experience, a three-day virtual event with an abundance of live and ondemand education. The event featured classes and “main stage” presentations led by some of the industry leading artists and brands, featuring amika’s global artistic director Naeemah LaFond, Redken’s global artistic ambassador Sam Villa, Matrix and Biolage director Danielle Keasling, Moroccanoil’s global artistic director Antonio Corral Calero and more. Plus, a special shout-out to Pulp Riot’s international educator Kelly O’Leary from Winnipeg, and Torontobased Color.Master for Kevin.Murphy, Jan Patanao!

When: March 14-16

Welcome Aboard!

JPMS has also announced the promotion of Jason Yates from chief operating officer (COO) to president of the company. Yates has been with the brand since 2012 as vice president of marketing before being promoted to COO in 2018.

Global award-winning master colourist Marlo Steenman has been named the new artistic director for Oriac Trading, a Canadian beauty distributor based in Edmonton, Alta.

Steenman, who has more than 25 years of industry experience, will be leading the company’s creative direction with a main focus on their Artego colour line.

John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) has promoted vice chairman Michaeline DeJoria, daughter of co-founder John Paul DeJoria, to CEO—making her one of the youngest CEOs in the beauty industry! In her new role, Michaeline will oversee strategies across key channels, including product, marketing and digital, to bring innovation to the brand and increase market share.

Kao Salon Division has appointed celebrity hairstylist Harry Josh as their new ambassador for Goldwell and KMS Americas. Josh is recognized in the industry for his master haircutting skills, high-profile clientele and undeniable work ethic. In this role, Josh will introduce new collections and product innovations for both brands through press and industry events, as well as on social media.

Moving Up

Wahl Canada has appointed Aldo Gemmiti as the new director of their professional division.

With more than 24 years of experience working for the Wahl company, Gemmiti has demonstrated a strong work ethic, and as the brand’s former professional national sales manager, he’s been a driving force in helping increase professional sales, providing exceptional customer service and support to customers. In his new role, Gemmiti will continue to grow the Wahl Canada brand with his superior leadership, customer service skills and industry knowledge.

Scoop —

New Heights

salonmagazine.ca / May 2021 65

Salon Social —

Ready to help clients switch up their colour this spring? These colourists from across the country are showing off their latest creations, and they’re all about letting loose and embracing a new look. From trendy techniques (like a bold money piece) to playing with pastels, the inspiration is endless! Use these images to get your creativity flowing. Don’t forget to tag us @salonmagazine on Instagram for a chance to be featured in an upcoming issue.

➣

Creative Colour

Hairstylist and colourist @jillian_r from Regina, Sask. gave her client a dramatic springready pink root blend.

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Colourist and shag-expert @hairbyhanvancity is right on-trend with this icy white and purple mullet.

@kwhair_, a blonde and balayage expert based in Keswick, Ont., shows off her “double down” technique, taking this natural level seven blonde to the max! Pro Tip: She says curtain bangs are the best accent to a bright, blonde look!

We are living for this striking look by North Vancouver-based hairstylist @chrisweberhair.

What better way to welcome the new season than with a dramatic, ’90s-inspired money piece?

66 salonmagazine.ca / May 2021

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF; PHOTO: INSTAGRAM

➣ ➣ Brunette balayage for the win!

Vancouver-based balayage specialist @madisonlanehair enhances her client’s look with rich, chocolaty tones.

Vancouver-based salon owner, hairstylist and educator @michaellevinehair adds lilac and velvet hues over his client’s balayage for a perfect springinspired look!

Create the most confident version of you with our limited edition Calura Gloss series!

Scan to learn techniques & creative formulas!

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