Salon Magazine, May 2022 by Salon Communications Inc.

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T E X T U R E TA L K : A GU I DE FOR CA R I NG , CU T T I NG , C OL OU R I NG A N D ST Y L I NG A L L CU R L T Y PE S

Creative Curls M AY 2 0 2 2

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Before

After

*When using Instacure anti-breakage porosity spray versus non-conditioning shampoo

New!

Instacure Anti-Breakage System Infused with liquid proteins to repair strength in damaged, dry and brittle hair and visibly reduce appearance of split ends, our professional targeted Anti-Breakage System* fills porosity right where you need it.

NEW MOROCCANOIL PROFESSIONAL HAIRCOLOR Discover care-infused color, delivering vibrant, long-lasting results with intense shine.

Visit MoroccanoilProfessionals.com to learn more.

BE BOLD. BE COLORFUL. BE HUE.

POWER OF HUE COLLECTION AVAILABLE MAY 2022 GELCOLOR • INFINITE SHINE • NAIL LACQUER

May 2022 29 F E AT U R E

Curl Conversation

Want to learn more about working with textured hair? We’ve got you! Build your confidence behind the chair with tips on cutting, colouring and styling curly hair. Plus, find out how texture experts from across Canada are filling the education gap in the industry.

F. A . M . E . T E A M ( E R RO L DOUGLAS , B RO O K E E VA N S , JOSE DOMENE , CA S E Y C O L E M A N A ND BR A NDON ME SSINGER)

F E AT U R E

“When building your marketing around texture, remember that if clients aren’t seeing themselves represented on your Instagram page, they most likely won’t book with you.” — T’KEHYAH PRENTICE-CUPID, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL SPONSORED ARTIST AND TEXTURED HAIR EXPERT, TORONTO

Back To Live

It’s official! After more than two years, live and inperson education classes are finally resuming. Discover how some of the industry’s leading brands are shifting their education to adapt to a post-pandemic world.

37 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

NAHA Canadian winners, Cos Sakkas; F.A.M.E. Team; Janet Jackson; Frank Dicintio; Jamal Edmonds; Junior Green

54 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Navin Ramgoolam

Discover how this Montrealbased hairstylist found his inspiration while exploring a deeper meaning behind his craft. Plus, learn why he’s a diversity and inclusion champion, and how his personal experiences have shaped his passion.

ON THE COVER: HAIR: COS SAKKAS, TONI&GUY, U.K., MAKEUP: LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS, WARDROBE STYLING: VERONIKA GREENHILL, PHOTO: JACK EAMES salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 9

Editor’s Letter

14 64

L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

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Events/Scoop

Want more creative content? Head over to our website to get all the latest industry news, Contessa updates, events recaps, stories and more!

66 SA LON STOR IE S

Doing Their Part

Find out why these salon owners and experts captured our attention with their work that furthers diversity discussions in the industry.

15 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Get the scoop on new product launches in haircare, colour and styling. Plus, learn more about layering techniques, Curlights, and how nail salon owners are maintaining the health and safety of their nail techs and clients.

40 COS SA K K AS , T O N I & G U Y, U . K .

56 P RO F I L E

Humble Roots

Get to know Greg Gilmore, who started his career as a texture and haircutting expert, and is now one of the most requested celebrity colourists in the game.

58 BUSINESS

The Diversity Difference

44 CONTE SSA 2 0 2 2 F I N A L I S T, M U LT I C U LT U R A L HAIRSTYLIST JA N E T JAC K S O N , J O UJ O U H A I R STUDIO, T O RO N T O

10 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

Looking to do your part in offering a more diverse and inclusive salon environment? We spoke with diversity experts about improvements that can be made to encourage change from the inside out.

60 INTER IORS

West Coast Chic

Take a peek inside this Vancouver-based salon that drew style inspiration from the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel.

50 JUNIOR GR EEN, JUNIOR GR EEN H A IR DR ESSING, U.K.

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 31, ISSUE 4 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Editor’s Letter —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR Leen Blaibleh leen@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner

CONSULTANT Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca

Real Talk

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director

12 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

There’s no denying the significant push our industry has seen for more inclusivity training in recent years—due in large part to the pandemic and significant political events that unfolded in the midst. However, the fact remains that textured hair education continues to be our Achilles heel. While it was disappointing to see that it took such difficult circumstances to force many of us to take a hard look at ourselves before we embraced change, it’s been refreshing to see more beauty brands rise to the challenge; from incorporating diverse corporate imagery to making a concerted effort to offer more inclusive educational opportunities. I explore this development in Back to Live (pg. 34), which focuses on the return to in-person education and the changes being made to foster more inclusive learning experiences. I strongly believe on both a personal and professional level that we’re overdue for this type of revolution in our industry. As a woman of colour (and visible minority), it’s always been a mandate of mine to make diversity and inclusion a priority at Salon. While we can always do better, I’m more confident in our efforts than I’ve ever been. Case in point: Not only have we made clear efforts to showcase, promote and encourage a range of ethnicities in the pages of the magazine, but we’ve also revised our Contessa entry rules for our Multicultural Hairstylist category to emphasize the need for a range of hair textures, and we’ve placed a strong emphasis on including diversity in all areas of the competition. Making concrete efforts to evolve your business and brand is a step in the right direction for all. In The Diversity Difference (pg. 58), we check in with experts for their perspective on how salon owners can embrace these changes in every area of their business, from hiring to marketing. As we’re emerging from the pandemic, my challenge to you is to hone in on and apply small but impactful inclusion-focused changes that will serve you, your team and your clients both now and in the future. Let’s make it happen!

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NEXT-LEVEL BLONDE New Colorance Gloss Tones. Create luminous blonde results that last 41% longer.* Goldwell’s new liquid blondes provide superior shine and maximum performance in just 10 minutes. Color toning doesn’t get any better or faster than this. Decide on a formula, mix it, apply, rinse. Discover more at goldwell.com *Compared to one of the leading competitors.

Get Ready to Vote! Don’t forget to vote for your favourite look in our latest “So You Think You Can Style?” Boho Braids contest! Voting closes May 13th.

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Whether you’re on set for a photo shoot or working behind the chair, our collection archive is sure to inspire you to think outside the box.

14 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

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We have step-by-step details on how to achieve the smoothest silk press on textured hair. Learn more now at SalonMagazine.ca.

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Silky Smooth

Class Is In Session Looking to expand your skill set? Check out our list of textured hair education from across the country.

Celebrating Excellence With the help of the federal government, Black Business and Professional Association (BBPA) is investing in the revitalization of Toronto’s Little Jamaica neighbourhood. We spoke with two salon owners to learn more about their stories of resilience and the legacy of the JamaicanCanadian community in Canada's largest Blackowned retail area.

PHOTOS: HAIR: OLGA GARCÌA, OLGA GARCIA ESTILISTAS, SPAIN, MAKEUP: JOSE LUÌS BLASCO, WARDROBE STYLING: VISORI FASHIONART, PHOTO: DAVID ARNAL, NADINE MATTHEWS, GETTY STOCK, SAM VILLA

Terrific Texture

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salonmagazine.c

#SYTYCS

CHANGE THINGS UP WITH NEW CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING PRODUCT LAUNCHES. PLUS, GET A JUMP ON THE LATEST HAIRCUTTING AND COLOUR TRENDS.

PHOTOS: HAIR: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL UK&I YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM, MAKEUP: CLAIRE EVANS & YVONNE ALCOTT, WARDROBE STYLING: CLARE FRITH, PHOTO: CHRIS BULEZUIK

➣ In celebration of the 25th anniversary of Schwarzkopf Professional U.K. and Ireland’s Young Artistic Team, the collective has released Inspire, a collection led by creative director Tyler Johnston, which combines the artistry of eight top stylists, including Alijah Nerheim of Rainbow Room International, who created this playful curly-haired look exuding confidence and style. Combining cutting, styling and finishing trends to create a range of captivating looks, this collection is sure to motivate you this season— and beyond.

To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 15

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Brilliant Blondes Hairlines — NEWS

Enhance and tone your blondes with Goldwell’s Colorance Gloss Tones. The new liquid, demi-permanent shades are the newest addition to the Colorance portfolio. Perfect for customizing your blonde client’s colour service for additional vibrance and shine, Colorance Gloss Tones is suitable for all hair types and textures. Made with the brand’s exclusive IntraLipid technology that repairs and regenerates up to 70 per cent of the hair’s lost lipids, it also offers a gentler colouring process due to its pH-balanced formula. Colorance Gloss Tones are available in clear and 15 blonde shades for high-performance and long-lasting results in just 10 minutes.

Get products designed for every curl type with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Curl Expression. Looking for products to address your curly-haired clients’ specific needs? L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Curl Expression line will help you give them the hair of their dreams. With a range of shampoos, intensive hair masks, leave-in conditioners and heat-protectant sprays, each product is tailored to a specific curl pattern and includes key ingredients, such as glycerin, urea H and hibiscus seed, for hair that’s more moisturized and healthier than ever before. This line includes Intense Moisturizing Cleansing Cream Shampoo to hydrate; Anti-Buildup Cleansing Jelly Shampoo to cleanse; Intensive Moisturizer Mask (and Intensive Moisturizer Rich Mask) to treat; Long Lasting Leave-In Intensive Moisturizer and Cream-In-Jelly Definition Activator to style; Curls Reviver to define; and 10-in-1 Cream-in-Mousse to offer the perfect hold without drying curls. 16 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

Schwarzkopf Professional adds two new products to their BlondMe Blonde Wonders range. The care line is introducing two new products— Dry Shampoo Foam and Golden Mask—that help enhance all blonde types. The Dry Shampoo Foam is a weightless formula that’s designed to add volume and texture while absorbing excess oil. The Golden Mask is a deep-enriching treatment for strength and shine. Both products contain the brand’s 3D Bond Creation Technology that helps create new bonds and stabilize the hair structure for stronger and smoother results.

PHOTOS: GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

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Carefree Curls

M O R E T O L OV E

UP TO 100% GRAY COVERAGE IN 10 MINUTES NEW LOOK. SAME PERFORMANCE.

STUDIO STYLIST EXPRESS 17 permanent shades that provide fast & reliable results. NEW

NEW

6NB

8NB

ALL OF OUR STUDIO STYLIST EXPRESS PACKAGING IS NOW MADE FROM RECYCLED MATERIALS.

BEFORE

Sustainable Packaging

Available at Modern Beauty Supplies, Cosmoprof & Chalut

➣ Hairlines — NEWS

Bye-Bye Breakage! Repair, strengthen and treat hair with Matrix’s InstaCure Repair system.

Enhance natural texture with Joico’s Curl Confidence Defining Creme. Give clients the softness, definition and texture they’ve been looking for! With ingredients like vegan pea, vegetable proteins and Moringa Seed Oil—a rich source of antioxidants, vitamins A and E, zinc and silica, curls will look hydrated, shiny and soft without the crunchy, sticky feeling that some gels and creams can leave behind. Best suited for wavy to light coils or curls, Curl Confidence should be applied on damp hair before air-drying or blowdrying (with a diffuser) for maximum results.

18 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

Better Than Ever Discover the power and versatility of Redken’s Shades EQ Bonder Inside Ash Gold and Golden Level 10’s. In case you haven’t heard, Redken’s beloved Shades EQ—the all-inone demi-permanent colour, toner and gloss—now contains bonding technology and is formulated with citric acid and taurine, which protect sensitized hair’s strength while reducing its alkalinity post-lightening. Redken has launched Ash Gold, featuring three new shades—010AG, 09AG and 07AG—that have a smoky yet creamy reflect, and are perfect for creating trendy greige-blonde tones. The brand is also introducing Golden Level 10’s, which includes three new shades—010NW, 010G and 010WG—for cool, neutral and golden results. The high-level blonde shades provide a soft, golden reflect to boost lightness on all hair types and textures!

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): REDKEN, HAIR: CONTESSA 2020 WINNER, MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST, NORM WRIGHT, TAZ HAIR CO. TORONTO, MAKEUP: EKATERINA ULYANOFF, WARDROBE STYLING: MELISSA STETSKI, PHOTO: NATASHA GERSCHON, KENRA PROFESSIONAL, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, MATRIX, JOICO

CUE THE CURLS

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Kiss damage goodbye with Matrix’s InstaCure Repair system that’s designed to restore the health and strength of damaged hair and improves its flexibility. Since each hair type has different needs, the brand has developed a range of treatments to help reduce breakage. The products are enriched with liquid proteins that fill porosity where the hair needs it. The line includes Anti-Breakage Shampoo to cleanse and strengthen, Anti-Breakage Conditioner to soften and repair, AntiBreakage Porosity Spray to smooth the hair cuticle and reduce frizz, and a Soothing Scalp Serum to relieve tension and promote scalp health.

➣ TIME FOR TOUCH-UPS

Tips for Creating a Diverse and Inclusive Collection

Kenra Professional’s Studio Stylist Express just got a new look! This permanent colour range provides 100 per cent grey coverage in just 10 minutes. With the shorter processing time, stylists can now have more clients in their chairs, which means an increase in their profits. Featuring 17 pre-blended shades (and four new ones!) in neutral and fashion tones, they’re perfect for giving clients quick and convenient touch-ups, colour melts and root shadowing without compromising quality. Studio Stylist Express works on all hair types, textures and lengths and can be used with the brand’s Color Developers 10V-30V. Added bonus: All of the packaging is now made from recycled materials!

Celebrating the beauty of Canada’s diversity is important in all aspects of the beauty industry. Regardless of whether or not your clientele or geographical region is diverse, when it comes to being inclusive in your work, there are no excuses! We caught up with multi-Contessa award winner, Norm Wright of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto, for his tips on creating a culturally diverse and inclusive collection. “I’ve always shot multicultural collections,” says Wright. “I think textures are fun to work with; whether that be Afro, Asian or Indian hair, they’re all different and challenging and they should be properly represented by our sector. I decided that I was going to make it my mandate to only shoot that until it’s recognized as normal. In Canada, we probably have the biggest multicultural society in the world and not opening yourself up to textures is limiting you as a hairdresser.” What is your process in choosing your models? How do you find them? If I see somebody that’s attractive on the street, I pull up some pictures on my phone and just show them my work. Finding models should be on your radar all the time. And this is not just limited to models. I usually create my collections and then I find the person that’s suitable for it. I think your collection should tell a story and that’s the most important thing when finding models—it’s about the energy a person exudes. Any tips for stylists who may live in areas of the country that aren't as diverse? People can still celebrate textures, even if they’re in a part of the country where they can't find Black models. Stylists can use wigs or make wigs to resemble the texture. I think understanding the architecture behind some of these shapes allows you to grow as a person and it makes you a more wellrounded hairstylist. What advice would you give stylists looking to diversify their collections? Don’t be afraid. If you want to bring the best out of yourself, you shouldn’t be in your comfort zone to begin with. So for stylists that are uncomfortable with Afro or Asian textures, challenge yourself. I always try and bite off more than I can chew to find out what I’m capable of. I think the most important thing is to just be genuine to yourself and your vision. Don’t overthink your collections and don’t overthink the texture. Don’t think that you have to make a person look Aboriginal or Indian or West Indian. I think just showing these textures the respect they deserve is an important part of moving us all forward.

Entry Deadline: September 8, 2022 GALA DATE: NOVEMBER 20, 2022 Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre, Toronto

Hairlines — NEWS

Speed up your services with Kenra’s Studio Stylist Express.

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Mega Volume Give clients the hair of their dreams with Oligo’s Blacklight Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner. Condition and add volume to hair with Oligo’s Blacklight Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner. The shampoo gently cleanses hair, adding volume, body and manageability while the conditioner delivers superior softness, smoothness, volume and shine for all multi-textural hair types. This duo features 11 amino acids and fatty acids like argan oil without any sulfates, parabens or animalderived materials. With benefits like conditioning and volume, along with anti-static, thermal and colour protection, your clients’ hair will look and feel smoother, shinier and more voluminous! salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 19

American Crew introduces two new styling products that deliver workable hold and texture without stickiness.

➣ CONDITIONED COLOUR

Help clients refresh, tone or intensify their colour with #mydentity’s #myrefresh. BOTH PRODUCTS WORK ON ALL HAIR TYPES AND TEXTURES!

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With seven new shades, these colour-depositing conditioners are infused with sunflower seed oil, argan oil and meadowfoam to help your clients keep their colour looking fresh and vibrant for up to 25 washes. The new hues include Crimson Spell, Magenta Magic, Purple Raven, Blue Mystique, Rose Gold, Lavender Lust and Silver Pearl. In addition to colour, the #myrefresh conditioners moisturize hair for soft, shiny results.

American Crew’s Matte Clay Spray is an oil-absorbing texturizing spray that provides hair with a workable, medium hold. Formulated with Kaolin clay, a naturally derived ingredient that absorbs any excess oils, the spray provides a matte look that’ll last all day. The moisturizing formula also helps control frizz, adds thickness to any hairstyle and enhances natural texture while providing more fullness and body. American Crew’s Whip is an airy and weightless styling formulation that provides texture and flexible hold for an effortless look. With a subtle and fresh minty scent, this product creates a light hold and adds natural shine for healthylooking hair. Plus, it absorbs quickly while giving the hair the definition it needs.

Escape to Paradise Indulge in Sexy Hair’s new limited-edition Spray & Play volumizing hairsprays. Take a “spraycation” with the new Big Sexy Hair limited-edition Spray & Play volumizing hairsprays! Available in Island Paradise, a tropical fragrance with notes of dragonfruit and bright poppy, and Spa Escape, a tranquil fragrance with hints of cucumber water and fresh gardenia, the fun and fresh scents are perfect for the season and provide a medium-to-high hold on fine, medium and coarse hair.

20 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): AMERICAN CREW, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, BIOTOP PROFESSIONAL, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, SEXY HAIR, #MYDENTITY

Hairlines — NEWS

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Long-Lasting Hold

➣ T R I P L E T H R E AT

Hairlines — NEWS

Care, colour and style with Revlon Professional’s latest products. Revlonissimo Color Excel Gloss is the brand’s first ammonia-free toning range featuring an acid technology that helps bring back the natural pH balance of the hair after a lightening service. With 10 shades and one clear option, stylists can colour with confidence thanks to benefits like zero lift, low-commitment and deposit-only colour, reliable and uniform shades, and high-shine for silkier results. Revlon has also launched Magnet Blondes, a new lightening range that complements their new-and-improved Magnet system for a 360-degree solution to protect external aggressors in chemically-treated hair. Magnet Blondes offers up to nine levels of lift and includes the brand’s BondIn system to protect, repair and create bonds for three-times stronger results. And that’s not all! Revlon is also relaunching its iconic UniqOne, just in time for the product’s 10th anniversary! Now featuring a new image, recycled materials and vegan formulas, the all-in-one treatment still contains its beloved 10 benefits. Among them: Conditioning and detangling, frizz control, heat protection, shine booster and more. Plus, it now features a new bold and fresh fragrance!

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Squeaky Clean

Cleanse and care for the hair and scalp with Authentic Beauty Concept’s Bare Cleanser. The ECARF-certified (allergy friendly) and unscented cleanser is suitable for all scalp types (including delicate and sensitive), and is made with spirulina extract, which is rich in amino acids. The transparent cleanser moisturizes the scalp to keep it supple and is gentle enough for everyday use.

➣ P RO T E I N P OW E R

Biotop introduces two new quinoa and keratin masks.

BOTH MASKS ARE MADE WITH COLOUR-SAFE FORMULAS THAT HELP SEAL THE CUTICLE TO PREVENT FUTURE BREAKAGE.

Whether you’re looking to boost nourishment or repair damaged hair, Biotop Professional’s two new hair masks are sure to deliver. The 911 Quinoa Hair Mask is formulated with the brand’s key ingredient (quinoa), which is a plant-based superfood containing nine essential amino acids that are naturally found in the hair. This mask penetrates each strand with quinoa proteins, making it the ideal rejuvenating treatment for hair. With 10 per cent pure quinoa extracts and sunflower seed oil in a pH-balancing base of purified water, this rich formulation will give hair a boost of nourishment and the vital proteins it needs to look and feel softer, healthier and more vibrant. For clients whose hair could use deep repair and restoration, the 007 Keratin Hair Mask is perfect for damaged and chemically processed strands. This mask replenishes the keratin in hair to strengthen the follicle and protect it from future breakage or damage. Enriched with vitamin E in a pH-balancing base of purified water, this formula seals the cuticle and smooths hair to reduce frizz. salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 21

Hairlines — NAILS

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AS PANDEMIC RESTRICTIONS CONTINUE TO BE LIFTED, MORE CLIENTS ARE RETURNING TO THEIR REGULAR IN-SALON SERVICES WITH A HEIGHTENED CONCERN FOR THEIR HEALTH AND SAFETY. WE CHECKED IN WITH NAIL SALON OWNERS ON HOW TO MAINTAIN A HEALTHY SALON ENVIRONMENT.

Safe and Sound

Chemical Conscious As mask mandates are coming to an end across Canada, many clients are excited to get back to what was once a “normal” in-salon service. However it’s important to respect all clients’ comfort levels while ensuring a safe salon environment for everyone. “One of the things that’s always been noticeable for me is the smell you encounter when walking into a nail salon, and that’s because of the harsh chemicals,” says Gale. “It’s for this reason that we focused on natural nails for the first decade and a half of our existence.” While the salon chain recently made the decision to bring in gel polishes (hard gel and soft gel), Gale says it’s due to the recent changes in product technology and formulation. “They don’t have the same harsh chemicals they once did and they don’t require the same removal process.” The amount of chemicals and toxin levels in nail salons will vary depending on the quality of products used and the types of services offered. According to Bruna Dicecca, owner of Ritual Hair 22 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

Skin Beauty in Toronto, they’ve chosen to not offer any nail extensions, powder or dip services to reduce the use of chemicals. “Artificial nails create more chemicals and toxins,” says Dicecca, adding that it’s the application and removal of acrylic nails that can create excess particles and fumes in the air. “To shape it or completely remove it, you have to use a drill, which makes the fine, almost fibreglasslike particles spread in the air,” says Gale. While the answer may not be as simple as “stop offering those services,” salon owners can take a few steps to improve their overall environment. “I would suggest proper ventilation,” says Gale. “Wearing n95 masks and gloves and thoroughly cleaning the areas is also crucial because the particles easily spread everywhere and people end up breathing them in.” Sanitization Station Since the start of the pandemic, more salons have been using single-use files and buffers to eliminate multi-use products and the constant need for sanitizing tools. As salon owners look for ways to maintain a healthy and safe environment for their nail techs and clients, they should also keep in mind that these changes should mean a price increase for clients. “I believe with the use of proper protective equipment (PPE), we will see an increase in pricing,” says Dicecca. “Clients should know that they’re paying for value, safety and peace of mind.” “Before the pandemic, clients were more willing to pay a little less for services at a cheaper place,” says Gale. “But now, clients aren’t going to take any risks and will pay more.”

DID YOU KNOW? GREEN CIRCLE SALONS OFFERS A PPE RECOVERY INITIATIVE, A PROGRAM THAT SAFELY DISPOSES OF PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT TO REDUCE THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT!

PRO TIP SALON OWNERS SHOULD CONSIDER THE CONTINUED USE OF ADDITIONAL PPE, SUCH AS GLOVES AND MASKS, AMONG NAIL TECHS TO DECREASE THE INHALATION OF CHEMICALS.

TEXT: LEEN BLAIBLEH, PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK

With the range of products and services offered in nail salons, there’s been some recent news reports that indicate an increasing concern over the use of chemicals and toxin levels. “Some salon owners and technicians have been forced to cut down on more expensive masks or ventilation systems because they’re not making as much money on services like nail removal, which is quite labour intensive and requires supplies,” says Kristen Gale, CEO and founder of The Ten Spot. “And it’s these services that are actually causing the most amount of issues and health risks.”

JUST ABOUT EVERY TRENDING HAIRSTYLE THIS SEASON HAS ONE THING IN COMMON: LAYERS! WE CHECKED IN WITH STYLISTS FOR THEIR BEST CUTTING TECHNIQUES FOR CREATING LAYERS ON ALL HAIR TYPES AND HOW TO ENSURE A SEAMLESS BLEND.

Layering Lessons Whether it’s due to the return of ’90s cuts (eg. “The Rachel”) or trendy styles like the shag, layers are becoming more common than ever among a wide range of clientele. “People have started to embrace their natural texture and movement,” says Marilyn Rose, a Redken artist and owner of Curlology By Marilyn in Ottawa. “With these current trends and the right products, it definitely allows them to have fun and play with their textures and waves.”

Assessing Type and Texture

When it comes to layering, stylists must consider the hair type and texture they’re working with as this will affect the techniques they should use. “Trends are great but it’s all about the suitability,” says Katia Jananji, a Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks artist and owner of Monokrome Salon in Montreal, who adds that factoring in the client’s hair density and lifestyle will also help determine what layers are best suited for them. “If a client with thin hair wants that layered mullet haircut and the stylist starts cutting too many layers, the hair will collapse and look flat. It won’t give as much volume and will look very thin at the bottom, so the client won’t get the look they’re expecting.” Layers tend to work well with normal to thick hair types, but stylists should still factor in the size of the client’s 24 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

forehead, especially when cutting layered fringes, such as curtain bangs. For example, if a client with a small forehead opts for curtain bangs, they’re going to look a lot shorter and not balanced with the rest of the haircut. When working with curls and natural texture, one of the most common mistakes that stylists make is blowdrying the curls when layering. “You want to diffuse the curls or air-dry them and always work on dry hair to make sure the hair is well-balanced,” says Jananji. “You want to maintain all the natural texture when working on a fringe. And always make sure the forehead is big enough to sustain the look and make the hair voluminous.”

Making The Cut

Although the process seems relatively similar, there are some notable differences found across longer and shorter layers. “The main differences would be the amount of added movement and weight removal that occurs,” says Rose. “When cutting shorter layers, you have more opportunities to create volume, movement and remove weight.” When working with longer layers, stylists should typically keep some weight or length at the bottom when working with extreme layering techniques. “If you take the wolf cut as an example, there are a lot of layers in the front. So make sure you isolate

PRO TIP THE FREQUENCY THAT CLIENTS SHOULD COME BACK TO THE SALON IS DETERMINED BY THE LENGTH AND SHAPE OF THEIR HAIRCUT. FOR LONGER HAIR, THEY SHOULD RETURN EVERY TWOTO-THREE MONTHS TO RESHAPE, BUT IF THE LAYERS ARE SHORTER, THEY SHOULD EXPECT TO COME BACK EVEN EARLIER.

Bringing Them Back Haircuts with a lot of layers can be beneficial for business because of the frequency of visits required. “Clients will notice their hair changing and getting heavier within a six-to-eightweek period, meaning more salon visits per year,” says Rose. “This helps stylists maintain long-term relationships with their clients and increase their revenue.” Jananji offers a “fringe service” at her salon for clients with bangs as well as layered hairstyles. “I ask clients to come in between appointments and I’ll just do a fringe touch-up,” she says. “What’s good about it is you’re having the client physically come back into your salon so there’s an opportunity to sell them on adding in some colouring techniques or even some products for styling.”

TEXT: LEEN BLAIBLEH, PHOTOS: HAIR: MELISSA TIMPERLEY AND MELISSA SALONS ART TEAM, U.K., MAKEUP: KIRSTEN B, WARDROBE STYLING: RUBINA VITA MARCHIORI, PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG; HAIR: RAQUEL SAIZ & ULISES PELUQUEROS, SPAIN, MAKEUP: NACHO SANZ, WARDROBE STYLING: QUATTRO, PHOTO: ESTEBAN ROCA; SCHEDULE BY PATRICK STRAUB FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, HAIRCUT BY ICONIXAR FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Hairlines — SHORTCUTS

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“WORKING WITH THEIR NATURAL TEXTURE CHANGES EVERYTHING. IT’S WHAT MAKES LAYERED HAIRCUTS GENDERLESS BECAUSE CLIENTS CAN APPLY PRODUCTS AND LET THE HAIR AIR-DRY.” —KATIA, JANANJI, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS ARTIST AND OWNER OF MONOKROME SALON IN MONTREAL

Seamless Transition PRO TIP FOR FINE, THIN HAIR, JANANJI SUGGESTS WORKING ON A SHORTER VERSION OF THE DESIRED HAIRCUT AND EMBRACING THE CLIENT’S NATURAL TEXTURE WHEN STYLING.

the whole perimeter and work on the shape on top to give it as many layers as possible,” says Jananji. “Keep the bottom disconnected and slightly connect the layers with the bottom by using slice-cutting or point-cutting techniques. This will help maintain a lot of the layers and volume on top while also keeping the length and weight at the bottom.” For shorter hair, stylists should aim for rounded layers if they’re going for a mullet hairstyle but the focus should be on the finishing technique. “Start with the fringe. You can do a centre part in the front end, isolate the back and work with the front to almost crop the whole section and then disconnect it from the back,” says Jananji, adding that stylists should either point-cut or slice-cut the hair after working on the hairstyle to add the signature they want. “Go for a shorter point on top to longer lengths at the bottom so you have that mullet look to it.”

Choosing the right cutting technique for any layered hairstyle is one of the most important steps to achieving the desired look. “To cut layers, I like to use point-cutting to help create softer ends,” says Rose. “Wrapping the hair on top of the head and moving it in the opposite direction helps create a more rounded look with layers.” Since working with different hair textures can also affect the outcome of a layered cut, it’s important to consider the length of the layers. “You have to factor in where the layer should start or finish and how short they should be when working with textures,” says Rose. When cutting curls, stylists should take into consideration that, depending on the curl type, the hair may spring back. “You have to visualize the shape in a three-dimensional way,” says Jananji. “You want to adapt your angles when you cut to achieve the desired shape.”

Conducting thorough consultations to determine the client’s routine and hair type before cutting is paramount. After looking at the client’s face shape, Jananji and Rose ask questions like, “Where would you like the length to sit? What is your routine like? How often do you wash your hair? What challenges are you having with your hair?” These questions will help stylists determine which type of layers to recommend. “If my client is complaining about a lack of volume, no movement or their hair being too thick and heavy, I always recommend some type of layering,” says Rose. “When you throw in the option of layering, you open the doors to the possibility of many haircut options.” When cutting face-framing layers, Rose asks clients what their favourite facial feature is to bring more attention to it. “It could be their cheekbones, eyes, smile. Whatever it is, that’s where I’ll start cutting face-framing layers to draw more attention to the area,” she says, adding that the key to avoiding harsh lines is elevation. “The higher you elevate the hair, the softer your layers will fall.” Having a strong structure within the haircut also helps the layers blend in seamlessly. According to Jananji, how stylists choose to cut the hair makes all the difference. “A lot of stylists like to use razors to cut long layers because they’re afraid of sharp lines,” she says. “That sharp line happens when you cut the hair straight.” Along with pointcutting, she recommends paying attention to the finishing touches to make sure that everything blends well together.

salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 25

LEARN HOW TO TAKE YOUR CURLY-HAIRED HIGHLIGHTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH THIS COLOUR TREND.

Curlights Using colour to add dimension to curly hair is the perfect way to brighten up darker shades, especially for spring and summer. While highlighting is a classic technique, Curlights is the latest take on it to strategically add pops of lightness for a multidimensional result. “It’s basically curly-hair balayage,” says Patricia Ajani, artist and colourist at Haus of Rtists in Laval, Que., who specializes in working with all curl types and also serves as an educator for Kevin.Murphy. “It’s the best way to create a more contrasted result or something that’s very tone on tone, depending on what the client is looking for.” Understanding the Fabric Some colourists may try using the same highlighting techniques for curly hair as they would for straight hair, but it’s important to note that the results can vary drastically. “Curly hair and straight hair are very different fabrics,” says Marlo Steenman, a NAHA awardwinning colourist based in Edmonton, who is also the artistic director for Artègo Canada and creator of Curls Gone Wild, an educational program that focuses on cutting and colouring curly hair. “You have to know the curl type you’re working with because it determines how you’re going to execute your highlights.” Steenman compares tighter curls to a tweed, which requires a bolder use of colour to ensure it’s not lost in the weaving of the fabric. Conversely, she compares straight hair to silk, which easily shows movement and shine. “I always say the fear [of working with curly hair] really comes from not knowing your curl type; understanding which ‘fabric’ you’re working with makes the process much easier for the stylist,” she says. “There’s a very methodical yet organic approach to working with curly hair. You have to plan it out in the sense of being prepared and knowing the curl type.” “I’ve always been one to try to push colour onto my curly clients because I feel like it gives a nice pop to curls,” says Elisha Gotha, owner of The Curl Lounge in Toronto, and a DevaCurl certified expert. “Sometimes with a natural base colour or

26 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

one colour in general, hair can seem muted. Adding different lights makes it multidimensional and gives it another look. The effect really showcases the different textures of the curls.” All About Application Your client’s waves (type 2), curls (type 3) or coils (type 4), will influence how much lightener and colour to apply. “If the hair is really curly, you’ll likely want to go with a heavier weave and a little lighter if there’s less of a curl,” says Steenman. “Unfortunately, I’ve seen a lot of stylists who don’t know their client’s curl type and go with traditional highlighting, which makes it look like spaghetti noodles are going through the hair. It’s too stripey.” “I’ll customize the colour depending on how the client wears their hair,” adds Ajani. “If they want something a bit more subtle and deeper at the root, teasing is nice to keep the dimension, along with keeping the ends more solid so it pops more when the hair is curly. Plus, there’s the versatility of being able to wear it straight. Always section the hair and make sure it’s clean so you can work section by section and not be all over the place.” Since curly hair is drier and more prone to breakage, working low and slow is key; opting for a 20-volume developer and working at a slower pace. “People may think that curly hair is the strongest hair, but the tighter the curl is, the more fragile it is,” says Ajani. “Curly hair is naturally more porous, so it will grab colour very easily. If you work with a lightener or developer that’s very strong and work too fast, you can damage the curl pattern.” “Having curly hair myself, we never go from level one to 10 [in one appointment],” adds Gotha. “In

PRO TIP ASK CLIENTS TO COME IN FOR THE CONSULTATION (AND APPOINTMENT) WITH THEIR NATURAL CURLS AND ASK HOW THEY WEAR THEIR HAIR ON A DAILY BASIS. THIS WILL HELP DETERMINE THE BEST COURSE OF ACTION FOR THEIR COLOUR.

PRO TIP AVOID BABYLIGHTS SINCE THE EFFECT OFTEN GETS LOST IN CURLS AND CAN CAUSE THE HAIR TO LOOK TOO FLAT AND DIFFUSED.

PRO TIP AVOID OVER-FOILING THE HAIR OR YOU MAY END UP WITH A SOLID COLOUR RATHER THAN A MULTIDIMENSIONAL RESULT.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: PATRICIA AJANI, HAIR: CHRISTOPHER LAIRD, HAIR BY CHRISTOPHER LAIRD, U.K., MAKEUP: EMMA CANTWELL, WARDROBE STYLING: CHRISTOPHER LAIRD & EMMA-LOUISE CANTWELL, PHOTO: VIVIENNE EDGE, MARLO STEENMAN, WOMAN BY OMENEKO FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, MINUS BY DARA ULLRICH FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, PORTRAIT BY MATT CAISLEY FROM NOUNPROJECT. COM, PLUS BY DARA ULLRICH FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, MATRIX, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, MOROCCANOIL, ARTÈGO

Hairlines — COLOUR

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PRODUCT PICKS

Matrix Curl Lights Designed to preserve curl patterns, this ammonia-free lightening system offers up to five levels of lift in 15 minutes.

PRO TIP WHEN LIGHTENING AND COLOURING CURLY HAIR, STEENMAN SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO TAKE A STEP BACK TO LOOK AT IT. “IT'S LIKE A PAINTING; LOOK AT WHERE YOU NEED TO FILL IN SOME OF THOSE GAPS TO SEE A NATURAL TRANSITION.”

order to maintain the integrity of their hair, clients may need to come in for a second session if they want to be really light blonde of if they had previous colour. This way, we can take it slow and use bonding products to help protect their curls.” The Curlights trend typically refers to freehand painting in order to achieve a blended transition, but that doesn’t mean a similar look can’t be achieved with foiling. “I would hand-paint when the client wants to see something very subtle and not too much of a contrast, and when they want to keep a lot of the warmth, like caramels and rich brunettes,” says Ajani. “It’s also great for reviving some pieces that are a little bit dull. If I need more control and lots of lift, foils are my go-to.” “I like to use foils because the work is neater and cleaner, and I find that it processes better than freehand,” adds Gotha. “I like to do a lot of

feathering and blending so the grow-out is nicer. It’s a nice transition between your dark and light, and leaving some dark in the hair and between your foils really helps those Curlights pop. When you have a dark base or leave some of the natural colour in, it’s going to make the lights seem lighter, whereas if you colour everything and don’t leave as much dark, it kind of dilutes that light tone and doesn’t give you that curly light that you want.” Regardless of the technique you decide to use, being honest (and realistic) about the timeframe and cost is critical. “A lot of clients already think that colouring their hair is damaging because of past experiences they didn’t like or because they lost their curl pattern as a result of working with a stylist who didn’t know anything about curly hair,” says Gotha. “Always do a strand test and don’t guarantee anything because you really don't know until you do it.”

“[CURLIGHTS] BRINGS CLIENTS INTO THE SALON MORE OFTEN AND THEY’LL FEEL MORE COMFORTABLE WEARING THEIR NATURAL CURLS WHEN THEY HAVE THAT COLOUR IN THERE.” — ELISHA GOTHA, OWNER OF THE CURL LOUNGE, TORONTO

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vario Blond Plus Powder Lightener With the brand’s integrated Fibre Bond Technology, this dust-free blue powder lightener provides up to seven levels of lift.

Moroccanoil Blonde Voyage Clay Lightener This argan oil-infused Kaolin clay lightener includes the brand’s BondCare technology and offers a creamy consistency that’s ideal for freehand applications.

Artego Beauty Fusion Phyto Tech This multifunctional colour range is formulated with organic ingredients and natural oils to offer toneon-tone, demi and permanent coverage. salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 27

DISCOVER MORE– RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS BU I L D A R E WA R DI NG CA R E E R GE T T H E L AT E ST I N DUST RY N E WS S E E ST U N N I NG C OL L E C T ION S FIND THE T E CH N ICA L A DV ICE YOU CR AV E

salonmagazine.ca SalonMag Salon_Magazine salonmagazine SalonMagazine

1 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

As we’re starting to see more representation of curly and textured hairstyles on the runways, the fact remains that there continues to be a gap in curly and textured hair education in Canada. We spoke with experts for their tips on working with all types of curls and how to expand your skill set.

PHOTOS: HAIR: JAMIE WILEY, JAMIE WILEY EDITORIAL, U.S., MAKEUP: PHIPHI LIANG, WARDROBE STYLING: ANICA BUCKSON, PHOTO: ANNA CHERNOBAEVA

BY LEEN BLAIBLEH

As more stylists are advocating for additional training on working with curly and textured hair, it’s a skill set that many have had to learn on their own. “Beauty school taught me how to mainly work with Caucasian hair and didn’t teach much about Afro and coily hair other than how to identify it,” says T’kehya Prentice-Cupid, an Oligo Professionnel sponsored artist and textured hair expert. “I wanted to push diversity within the hair industry so I thought that working at a multicultural or Euro-centric salon would help but I didn’t feel like I fit in there, so I gained and built my skills over time.” As more clients are embracing their natural hair texture and curl patterns, it’s important for stylists to expand their skill sets to be able to work with as many hair types as possible. salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 29

“MAINTENANCE IS KEY SO I ALWAYS ENCOURAGE MY CLIENTS TO COME BACK EVERY THREE TO FOUR MONTHS. TEXTURED HAIR TENDS TO DRY OUT EASILY SO COMING BACK REGULARLY TO GET THE ENDS TRIMMED IS ENCOURAGED.”

A Cut Above

When working with curly and textured hair in the salon, Prentice-Cupid says it’s important to treat the hair with love and not be intimidated by it. “For the majority of the hairdressers I’ve seen, there’s a fear of working with curls and coils,” she says. “Spending time working with models with textures before working with clients will help build the stylist’s skills and confidence.” When working with curly-haired clients, a thorough consultation is important in helping stylists understand their client’s unique hair needs. “Curly, textured hair can be very delicate,” says Yvette Mitchell, a textured hair expert and owner of Yves Salon in Edmonton. “You need to know your client’s lifestyle. Ask questions to find out what they like and don’t like to do with their hair.” When cutting curly and textured hair, most experts agree that cutting the hair while it’s dry and in its natural state is preferred. “Textured hair shrinks up to 90 per cent of its length sometimes, so when you can see the curls in their max elongation and shape, that can help stylists cut the hair and be confident that the cut will hold up as the client’s 30 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

hair changes, shrinks and expands throughout the week,” says PrenticeCupid. “There are techniques some stylists use that don’t factor in that the client may also want to straighten their hair, so it should be even. I always encourage stylists to check the perimeter and make sure that it’s levelled and the layers are balanced.” “If the client wears their hair curly most of the time, stylists need to dry-cut to see the curl pattern. If they wear their hair straight, then you would cut the hair wet,” adds Krista Leavitt, owner of Curl Specialist in Fredericton, New Brunswick. “I cut the hair right after the consultation before I wash and blowdry it because when you wet curly hair and pull it down, you can’t see the curl pattern.” Stylists should also consider their elevation when cutting curls. “For curlier hair, I wouldn’t go above a 45-degree elevation,” says Leavitt. “After wash day, curls (especially tighter coils) can appear to be longer and more elongated but after a few days, the hair starts to shrink, which is why it’s crucial to cut tighter curl patterns at a lower elevation.” “Work with smaller sections,” adds Mitchell. “When stylists work with bigger sections, they could just be cutting the hair on the surface so it won’t be all at the same length.” Mitchell also factors in the changes in texture when cutting hair. “I like to have my clients shake their hair after cutting,” she says. “Sometimes there are different

textures in the curls and the stylist may have missed a spot, so when the client shakes their hair, you can see the excess hair that still needs to be cut.”

Slow and Steady

When lightening or colouring curly and textured hair, a consultation is also important to not only understand your client’s curl pattern but also their hair history. “Sometimes the hair is not in a good state for colouring,” says Kim Gabriel, a curly hair specialist and owner of Born Curly by Kim Gabriel Hair Salon in Toronto. “In that case, I would ask the client to come in for treatments before we start lightening their hair.” According to Leavitt, keeping the colour as natural as possible is best when colouring curls since the lighter the highlights are, the more damage is done to the curls. “Any hair colour done will affect the curl patterns so it’s better to pick out individual curls and do a balayage instead of foiling,” says Leavitt. “When applying balayage, freehand painting is a better and safer way.” Taking it slow and not pushing the hair too far will help reduce the damage and dryness that usually comes when colouring or lightening hair. “As versatile as curls and coils are, they’re one of the most fragile textures, so you don’t want to start with 20-volume on a virgin hair client. You may want to even skip the foils altogether,” says Prentice-Cupid. “I’ve successfully lightened textured hair

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, TOWELS BY OLENA PANASOVSKA FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, COMB BY MARCO LIVOLSI FROM NOUNPROJECT. COM, PROHIBITED BY DANISHICON FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM, DISCUSSION BY ANDI FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

— KIM GABRIEL, CURLY HAIR SPECIALIST AND OWNER OF BORN CURLY BY KIM GABRIEL HAIR SALON, TORONTO

with clay lightener or even a cling wrap and a standard lightener so it can reach high levels without doing too much.”

Handle with Care

When it’s time to style curly and textured hair, Prentice-Cupid says it’s important to stay within your client’s comfort level. “I encourage stylists to listen to their clients to understand their preference, and to always ask for photos,” she says. “Clients with curly and textured hair know a lot about their hair types so find out what their regimen and go-to hairstyles are.” According to Leavitt, one of the most common mistakes that stylists make is touching the hair while they diffuse it. “For less frizz and longer-lasting curls, I would suggest stylists not scrunch the hair while diffusing it,” she says. “This will also help crystallize the products you apply on curls.” While stylists (and clients) will often reach for oils to hydrate the hair, it’s important to remember that water is the number one source of moisture for curls. “Using hydrating products and adding back that moisture into the hair is

Density Discussion Along with knowing how to cut, style and care for textured hair, stylists should also factor in the client’s hair density. “A client with a higher density of hair can use more styling products than someone with low-density hair,” says Leavitt. “Usually, lower density clients are looking for more volume and body so when choosing styling products, you may want to use foams and mousses. High-density hair clients are looking for some control and definition to reduce the bulk of their hair so you would lean more towards gels and creams.” “To get more volume in low-density hair, using fewer products and a diffuser would help give them that volume and fullness they’re looking for,” says Gabriel. “For higher density clients, I would style their hair in smaller sections and let their hair air dry.” When cutting the hair, stylists will want to adjust their technique depending on the curl type and hair density. “Take your time and comb out the hair to see what you need to cut,” says Mitchell. “Work in smaller sections to ensure all the hair is done, especially when using hot tools. This will make the hair last longer. And finally, teach the clients what they need to be doing at home to maintain their hair.”

PRO TIP AVOID USING FINE-TOOTHED COMBS AND REGULAR TOWELS, WHICH CAN MAKE THE HAIR FRIZZIER. INSTEAD, OPT FOR WIDER-TOOTHED COMBS AND A MICROFIBRE TOWEL TO DRY THE HAIR.

crucial,” says Prentice-Cupid. “To boost hydration, use a standard spray bottle and fill it up with 90 per cent water and 10 per cent conditioner to moisturize the hair daily.” “I would use gels instead of creams to make the curls last longer,” adds Leavitt. “Creams can last one day but gels change the shape of the curl pattern and lock the curl into place for several days.” “When the hair is dry, I like using a carbon pick (a type of comb used to fluff curls and create volume in curly and textured hair) to pluck the hair and a lightweight serum to separate the curls,” says Gabriel. “Using a light conditioner on the hair beforehand will make the styling process run smoother. I also love to apply the products in sections while the hair is wet. This will guarantee the products are well distributed.” It’s also critical to remember when to apply products to curly hair since it can also change the outcome of your client’s results. “Apply all products on soaking wet hair and then remove the excess water,” says Leavitt. “This

“UNDERSTANDING THAT YOUR HANDS ARE YOUR FIRST TOOL WHEN WORKING WITH TEXTURED HAIR IS VERY IMPORTANT.” – YVETTE MITCHELL, TEXTURED HAIR EXPERT AND OWNER OF YVES SALON, EDMONTON

salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 31

“IF YOU WANT TO BE A STYLIST THAT SERVES A WIDE VARIETY OF CLIENTS, THEN YOU NEED TO TAKE SOME EXTRA TRAINING. IF YOU’RE SERIOUS ABOUT HAIRDRESSING, THEN YOU HAVE TO PUT THE TIME AND FINANCIAL INVESTMENT INTO YOUR EDUCATION.” — KRISTA LEAVITT, OWNER OF CURL SPECIALIST, FREDERICTON, NEW BRUNSWICK 32 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

will ensure that the curls are more defined and less frizzy.” When using hot styling tools, it’s important to be gentle and use lowerheat settings to ensure you’re not damaging the hair. “Invest in your tools,” says Mitchell. “You get what you pay for so invest in a good quality blow-dryer and diffuser.”

Filling the Gap

The lack of training and education available on Black and textured hair in Canada has forced more stylists to resort to learning these techniques on their own or from other stylists that have developed their own skill sets. For Prentice-Cupid, she took it upon herself to develop Textured Hair Education, a curriculum focused on bringing textured hair education into beauty schools across Canada. “I remember reaching out to stylists and asking them what their experience was like [in beauty school] and whether they learned how to care for textured hair and 99 per cent of them said they were never taught it or they didn’t have adequate training,” she says. “Nobody was doing the diversity work so I took it upon myself to create a platform to potentially

build Canada’s first curriculum for textured and curly hair.” “It’s really important to have hands-on experience,” says Gabriel. “You have to get in there and feel it because there’s a big difference between the porosities and densities.” Leavitt also offers online curl courses and virtual coaching to educate and train stylists who are interested in learning how to work with curls. One of her courses is focused on building the foundation of cutting and styling curly hair. “I will be offering one-on-one services this fall where stylists would come into the salon and spend a few days with me working on clients and models,” says Leavitt. “I’ll also teach them about the different curl types and the techniques I use.” While it’s important for stylists to have the required training, clients should also be educated on how they can maintain their curls at home. “I offer training for my clients where they would come in with their hair products and I’ll show them how to apply them. I also teach them about their hair porosity and how to style their hair,” says Gabriel. “I’m also working to put together a class for stylists to learn all of this as well.” For hairstylists who have minimal experience with textured hair but are interested in learning more, patience and practice are key. “It takes time to really understand and get the knowledge,” says Gabriel. “You need to understand the basics, get out there and be confident enough to get behind someone with curly hair and do it. And you will make mistakes before you get comfortable doing what you do.” Reaching out to textured hair experts and stylists is also beneficial. “Don’t be shy to ask,” says Mitchell. “Reach out and spend time with stylists to watch and learn what they do.” For those looking for more diverse and inclusive education and training, Mitchell suggests reaching out to salons. “Find yourself a multicultural salon that you can work or volunteer in to get some of that knowledge and training.” Social media platforms like Instagram can also be a great tool to seek out diverse education. “Follow stylists that resonate with you and see if they offer courses or private training,” says Prentice-Cupid. “Look for that diverse content because it’s there but not on the surface.”

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Back To Live With COVID-19 restrictions continuing to lift across the country, in-person education is now being offered at academies, in salons and with distributors. Learn how some brands are paving the way and offering a wide range of educational options to make learning more accessible than ever.

It goes without saying that these past two years have taken their toll on the beauty industry. For salon owners and hairstylists alike, it’s forced a focus on rebuilding and growing business, which has, in many cases, resulted in education being put on hold. “[Our industry] had one of the longest closures, so the focus was on businessbuilding rather than education, which meant it took a little longer for owners and hairstylists to want to be apart from the salon, and also to send their 34 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

staff to attend programs,” says Linda Lorenzoni, academy manager for Kao Salon Academy Toronto. “Canadians are a bit more cautious [about attending in-person education] but classes are filling up now because the need, passion and want is there.” Open For Business Though it was partially open throughout the pandemic, Kao Salon Academy Toronto, located near the city’s Distillery District and home to Goldwell, KMS and Oribe, officially reopened

in April and has taken steps to ensure a safe and comfortable environment for all. In addition to implementing additional cleaning and sanitization protocols, Lorenzoni says they’ve cut back on the number of classes offered in a single day to reduce the amount of people in the academy. They’ve also committed to continuing to follow mask mandates, as needed. And now that their schedules are filling again, Lorenzoni says she and her team have recommitted to building out their educational calendar. Not only are they continuing to offer their three-day Master Colourist classes, the Kao Salon Academy Toronto team has also introduced a series of new, one-day options that are ideal for those looking to learn something new and at a faster pace. “Based on feedback, I know people are looking for more one-day programs, so we created some new options that are quick and at various levels to meet the needs of what people are asking for,” says Lorenzoni. “People can invest more than one day, but it’s exciting to

have more to offer if they’re looking for something new or have been with us a long time and have attended all the other programs.” At Wella Studio TO in Toronto’s Liberty Village neighbourhood (another one of the only manufacturerbased academies left in the province and country), studio manager Fay Linksman has also noticed an increased demand for one-day classes. “We’ve put a lot of focus on one-day seminars to grow colouring, cutting and styling skills with a strong focus on what the stylist needs most right now behind the chair,” she says. “Time has become a very precious commodity, so we want to ensure we’re delivering relevant and impactful education sessions in a bite-size format.” Since reopening in February, the studio’s focus has been on new offerings and the return of guest artist seminars “for stylists looking to up their blonding and colour-placement game,” says Linksman. “[It’s also] for those wanting to learn how to decode Instagram-worthy colour placements and master how to maximize their use of light and depth.” Wella is also continuing to

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, KAO

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

offer its core seminars with a focus on developing the hairstylist’s colouring skills at every level, including Master Color Expert, a master 12-day program that’s split into two six-day phases. To prioritize the safety of all involved, they’re conducting temperature checks and contact tracing, along with providing complimentary rapid antigen tests and disposable (optional) masks, for attendees and models. Education on Demand Some manufacturers, including Matrix, never stopped offering education during the pandemic “as long as salons were comfortable and the restrictions allowed it,” says Joshua Balint, national education and events director for Matrix. “From the feedback we receive, we are one of the only brands actively on the road as much as we are.” Case in point: This fall, Matrix is planning a Canadawide caravan event with stops in a host of major cities. “We’re not doing it sooner because we know that with COVID restrictions lifting, we want people to be able to do what they want in the summer and then be pumped when September comes around and we have these events going on,” says Balint. For manufacturers like Joico, they’re beginning to participate in more live events with distributor partners, including Capilex Beauté, which is hosting their Congrès Évolution show on May 1st in Quebec City. According to Megan Nevins, national education manager for Henkel Beauty Care Professional Canada, which includes Joico, Zotos Professional, Authentic Beauty Concept and STMNT, distributors are starting to hold more in-person classes and events in May and June, and into the fall.

“They’re slowly getting their feet back into it,” she says. “We’re focused on providing specific, beneficial classes, and doing all we can to make sure they fill up with the attendance we’re looking for. The number of people we can have in each class will depend on the distributor; while some distributors are going back to their full capacity, others have decided that they want to keep it at a certain level.” “We’ve always really customized our education through our distributors, so either planning something to use their classrooms for, bigger events for specific top accounts that we would bring to those distributor accounts, or we offer custom education in salons,” adds Nevins. “For a lot of our toplevel accounts—specifically for Joico—we go to them. We bring in all the mannequin stands, along with the artist and their entire setup.” Future of Virtual During the height of the pandemic, many manufacturers pivoted to virtual education to offer more accessible options for people dealing with extended lockdowns or those located in more remote areas of the country. Whether it was via social media, Zoom or their website,

many manufacturers faced the same challenges of keeping their audience engaged. “From the virtual perspective of our curriculum, we've definitely evolved from the beginning of the pandemic,” says Nevins. “With virtual, what we found very quickly is that you have a finite amount of time to capture someone’s attention.” “I think the production value has greatly improved overall,” adds Linksman.

“We’ve had a lot of time to become masters of Zoom and Instagram/Facebook Live, and have learned how to use some new apps to capture content. We’ve determined how to best position a ring light and tripod to capture the perfect angles and have become more comfortable with talking to our phones on a tripod while juggling questions and comments. Some creators have really

“IN THESE CLASSES, INSPIRATION DOESN’T JUST COME FROM THE ARTIST; IT COMES FROM THE PEOPLE AROUND THEM. PARTICIPANTS ARE LEARNING AND CONNECTING WITH OTHER SALON OWNERS AND HAIRSTYLISTS, WHICH IS AN IRREPLACEABLE EXPERIENCE.” — LINDA LORENZONI, ACADEMY MANAGER, KAO SALON ACADEMY TORONTO

salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 35

international artists who host a free two-hour class on Zoom and is open to anyone—regardless of their skill level or brand affiliation. “We've noticed that our digital education has gone through the roof,” says Balint. “You no longer have to sit in and watch the class live. If you register and you miss it, you can go back and watch the video, which is accessible for a month afterward, so you can watch it over and over until you grasp what’s needed, or watch it live so you can ask questions in the chat.”

upped their pre-recorded content, as well.” In addition to increased free introductory digital offerings during the pandemic, Matrix has expanded its Mentor.Me program (that launched in Canada last year) to Mentor.Me for All, which features five of their top

Ahead of the Curve While some people may feel hesitant about participating in education from a manufacturer—especially if it’s from a brand they aren’t affiliated with—it’s important to remember that education isn’t meant to be gatekept. “It’s about the technique first and the brand second,” says Lorenzoni. “Anyone can learn by coming to the academy; it’s a place where there's no ego and it’s just a safe place to be yourself and to express and learn.”

“THE INDUSTRY IS CONSTANTLY CHANGING, SO IF YOU DON’T BROADEN YOUR EDUCATION, UNFORTUNATELY, YOU WILL BE LEFT BEHIND.” — JOSHUA BALINT, NATIONAL EDUCATION AND EVENTS DIRECTOR, MATRIX

It’s also vital to remember that, while tips from influencers on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube can be helpful, when matched against the insights and education offered by established manufacturers, there really is no comparison. “There is a lot of awesome free education out there, but you have to sift through a lot of content, and within multiple platforms, to find it,” says Linksman. “It’s easy to get caught up in the process of scrolling through, and time is valuable.” There’s also the concern

about misinformation that can be detrimental. “It’s important to cross-check information regarding colouring product usage that’s not coming from a representative of the colour brand, and especially if the information seems a bit out of the ordinary,” says Linksman. “I notice a lot of education out there is being taught by more junior stylists,” says Lorenzoni. “But at the academy, these are worldrenowned artists teaching the programs, so it’s something special and unique.”

Texture Education

GOLDWELL While Goldwell’s current education programs on cutting, finishing and colour make reference to textured hair, they’re currently piloting a brand-new cutting and finishing program that will be more inclusive and cover all hair types, textures and trends. “These will be a journey similar to Master Colourist, in which they are a few days investment, and they’ll be offered at two or three various levels,” says Lorenzoni. “We’re excited for that. We’re going to pilot them this year, gather all the feedback and then launch next year.”

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JOICO Joico has teamed up with Elisha Gotha, texture expert and owner of The Curl Lounge in Toronto, for the brand’s new Curl Confidence launch. They recently collaborated on a photo shoot with all curl types and will be partnering to offer social education. “Before Elisha, we didn’t have someone on our education team who specifically works with and has a core business of curly hair,” says Nevins. “We’re also looking to partner with multiple different artists in the future to create more of a curly-haired curriculum. Offering knowledge from a specialist will help ensure that everything we teach also keeps curly hair in mind.

MATRIX With the goal of being the most inclusive and diverse brand in the industry, Matrix has made considerable investments in making sure their educational offerings reflect this mission. In addition to offering mannequins with a range of hair types for their classes, the company is also working closely with their global artistic director, Michelle O’Connor, to make sure they’re continuing to offer an inclusive education portfolio. “We make sure to speak the language of texture,” says Balint. “We go over the different types of curl patterns and explain the differences when using products so it’s no longer a one-size-fits-all approach.”

WELLA Prior to the pandemic, Wella launched Cut Craft Texture, a haircutting seminar focused on cutting techniques for naturally curly and coily hair textures. The company is planning on offering this seminar again in the fall. “Hairstylists are visual and kinesthetic learners. While we’ve had access to amazing virtual education during the pandemic, hairstylists are dying to get their hands in hair again,” says Linksman. “There’s also something about the personal connection made with an educator that enables the learner. I believe that the two-way connection is vital for learning to be memorable, inspiring and actionable.”

PHOTOS: WELLA COMPANY

Learn how some brands are offering a more inclusive learning experience.

All Hail The North

At the 2022 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), Canadians were in full force and took home three of the night’s top honours.

2022 #NAHAMOMENT Kim Rivka Elbaz,

Salon Deauville, Montreal MAKEUP Kris Christodoulou PHOTO Vanessa Secondino salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 37

Collections — 2022 NAHA WINNERS

2022 NAHA BARBER OF THE YEAR

Navin Ramgoolam, Salon Deauville, Montreal MAKEUP Kris Christodoulou WARDROBE STYLING Kim Rivka PHOTO Vanessa Secondino

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2022 NAHA STYLING & FINISHING Robin LaChance, Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. MAKEUP ARTIST Florencia Taylor WARDROBE STYLING Adrian Arnieri PHOTO Paula Tizzard salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 39

Collections — CRAFTWORK

This British collection features sharp lines and soft colours that are brought to life on a range of hair textures and shapes.

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HAIR Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY, U.K. MAKEUP Lan Nguyen-Grealis WARDROBE STYLING Veronika Greenhill PHOTOS Jack Eames salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 41

Collections — DIGITAL DISRUPTION

Luscious and defined curls are showcased on a multitude of lengths and styles in this British collection.

HAIR F.A.M.E. Team (Errol Douglas, Brooke Evans, Jose Domene, Casey Coleman and Brandon Messinger) MAKEUP Elizabeth Rita WARDROBE STYLING Anna Latham PHOTOS Chris Bulezuik

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Collections — GRACEFUL GODDESS

This Canadian collection features stunning shapes with a range of curl types for looks that are out of this world.

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST

Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Toronto MAKEUP Elena Pacienza PHOTOS Jamie Torrance

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salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 45

Collections — BELLE

Big, voluminous hair combines with a variety of cuts and textures in this eyecatching Canadian collection.

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST, Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. MAKEUP Rosana Toscano WARDROBE STYLING & PHOTOS Giancarlo Intini

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Collections — BEAUTIFULLY BOLD

Structured updos and voluminous styles are brought to life in this American collection.

HAIR Jamal Edmonds, Lamaj in the City, Washington, D.C. MAKEUP James Vincent WARDROBE STYLING Lina Classic PHOTOS Nico Liev

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Collections — CREME

There’s no shortage of elegance in this British collection that illustrates the power and beauty of texture with a range of braiding techniques.

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HAIR Junior Green, Junior Green Hairdressing, U.K. MAKEUP Marika Tasha Schminke Dr WARDROBE STYLING J.A.G. PHOTOS Martin Arron Dunworth (courtesy of FPA) salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 51

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#ContessaAwards #Contessa2023

YOUR TIME TO

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ENTRY DEADLINE SEPTEMBER 8, 2022 GALA NOVEMBER 20, 2022 Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre, Toronto NEW RULE CHANGES! FIND OUT MORE AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

Montreal-based hairstylist Navin Ramgoolam developed an interest in hairstyling at an early age. “My mother owned her own salon,” he says. “As a young child, I would go to her salon after school to help. Everything about it was very natural to me.” While finishing college, Ramgoolam was teaching himself barbering techniques part-time and then decided to pursue men’s hairstyling. “I felt the passion and loved the happiness that the transformations brought my clients,” he says. “I was always trying new styles, cuts and fades, which allowed me to gain experience and confidence over time. Today, I can pretty much make any hairstyle a reality for my clients.” After watching the 2021 Contessas, he decided to start creating his own 54 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

collections after gaining inspiration from other Canadian hairstylists and their work. “The Contessas are new to me, but I wanted to use them as a way to challenge myself and as an opportunity to do the best work I can while learning to grow as an artistic barber,” he says. “I strongly believe that in order to grow, one must challenge themselves to do things outside of their comfort zone and competing allows me to do that.” “Competitions build my strength as an artist and give me a good idea of what I need to work on,” he adds. “The more competitions I participate in, the more awareness the world will have of my work.”

The Importance of Diversity Ramgoolam’s collection features a diverse range of models, which was important to him on both a personal and professional level. “I used diverse models because the entire world is being affected during this time. Every colour, creed, and race.” Throughout his upbringing and working as a minority in Quebec, Ramgoolam says his experience in the salon industry has been nothing but positive. “The industry has welcomed me so openly and has allowed me to showcase my talent,” he says. “It’s one of the best industries to learn about different people, religions, cultures, behaviours and share experiences right from behind the chair.”

TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, PHOTOS: HAIR: NAVIN RAMGOOLAM, SALON DEAUVILLE, MONTREAL, MAKEUP: KRIS CHRISTODOULOU, WARDROBE STYLING: KIM RIVKA, PHOTOS: VANESSA SECONDINO

Contessa Gallery — 2022 FINALIST, MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST

Navin Ramgoolam

Light Over Darkness The photos for Ramgoolam’s finalist collection for Men’s Hairstylist incorporate a pop of yellow, which was executed through lighting and makeup. However, he says there is a deeper meaning behind it. “It represents light over darkness,” he says, adding that he garnered inspiration from the pandemic. “We also wanted it to reflect hope and a brighter tomorrow. The world has been faced with dark times during the pandemic, and with my collection I was trying to find a way to display that darkness.” As for the haircuts and styles, fades were a main component of his collection. “The razor blade was my best friend while creating the looks,” he says. “I combined basic fading with intricate sculpting, and really tried to get it right from every possible angle.”

“The Contessas give artists the opportunity to display our talents and gain a competitive edge in the industry.”

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Los Angeles-based celebrity hairstylist Greg Gilmore got his start in the industry working with textured hair and is now known for his colour transformations on celebrities such as Toni Braxton, Tiffany Haddish and Nicole Ari Parker. Learn more about his career path and his advice for hairstylists interested in expanding their skill sets. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

I understand you developed an interest in hair as a child, when you would visit salons with your mother. How did you get your start in the industry? When I was living in Cleveland, I started to assist with some artists that were prominent within my local demographic. I worked under a stylist who primarily did a lot with healthy hair and textured hair; a lot of smoothing and pressing. I liked watching and learning how to keep the hair healthy. I also learned a lot while shampooing for other stylists; I worked in a salon that had about 10 stylists and I would shampoo for all of them. I moved up from there. I started to work with my own clients but felt like I was kind of figuring things out on my own, so I decided to start taking some advanced classes. I trained with New Millennium Salon in Cleveland, where educators would come in and teach haircutting techniques. I continued to focus on furthering my skills and began to attend classes from Sassoon, which is where I started to sharpen my cutting skills.

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How did you begin working with celebrities? I moved to Los Angeles around 2010 and had a really rough time the first two to three years I was working there. I was struggling and had so many financial mishaps, but I stayed with it and eventually started to grow. I worked in a women’s salon called Eclectic Salon and worked with Jacqui Montero. She was a blessing; she allowed me to work in the salon on commission, which a lot of Black salons at the time were moving away from. She was a celebrity stylist and Aveda artist, and had a lot of experience educating and doing platform work. She had opportunities that she would pass along to me when she wasn’t available. My first experience in working with someone notable was with Jennifer Williams. I had to do her hair for the first Basketball Wives reunion show. After that, I worked with Rochelle Aytes, Rosa Acosta and then I met Moniece Slaughter and started doing her and her mother’s hair. I worked around other celebrity stylists in the salon, and they would start passing opportunities to me; one of them was with Vivica A. Fox. The opportunities grew over time, but it’s honestly taken me years to get to the point I’m at now, which is being requested to do someone’s hair instead of just being passed a job.

You started your career as a haircutting and texture expert and now you’re known for colour. Tell us about how (and why) you made the switch. I was always doing colour but I think once I gained a reputation for doing hair that stayed on people’s heads, I earned a reputation for being a colourist. I actually kind of fell into that because I love doing colour but was more of a haircutter; cutting hair is actually my first love but because I was so good at colouring, I was requested for it. It can be a challenge for hairstylists to find education on textured hair. What insights did you find to be the most helpful when learning and refining your skills? I think it’s about practice. Practice makes perfect and I think just being able to do the hair on a regular basis, all the time, and having that type of clientele has helped me. I think what set me apart was the colour, which can be difficult for textured hair. I think through the practice of doing it repetitively, I was able to find different tips and secrets on how to make it process better. I really just had to practice and got better over time. I really enjoy all types of textures. Each texture has its own characteristics and behaviour, so it can be difficult to work with certain types of textured hair, but when you're confident about your technique and confident about what you do, then you can tackle any texture. Were you ever concerned about being categorized as a Black hairstylist and not being able to branch out and work with other hair types? If so, how did you overcome that? I was concerned about that and thought I might just be one note or one side. I had accepted it for a few years; I worked for an all-Black, Black-owned global texture brand. I did that for a long time and was very comfortable there, but I wanted to expand. I wanted to be able to do other things and also not be pigeonholed into one category. I kind of had to force myself to branch out. I started working for another brand afterwards that allowed me the diversity

PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL, INSTAGRAM (@GREG_GILMORE)

Profile – GREG GILMORE

Humble Roots

that I was seeking, so I was able to hone my craft by speaking to and about other textures, which gave me the confidence to be a more universal, diverse stylist. Now, I’m working with Moroccanoil, which is giving me an amazing platform. It’s always a step-by-step process where people go through different things and learn different things. They adopt those lessons or things that they acquire from experience and then afterwards they’re looked at by other people who can help further their cause and their brand’s cause. For Moroccanoil, they were looking for someone who can speak to textured hair but can also hold their own with any texture in general. Speaking of Moroccanoil, congratulations on being named one of their newest global ambassadors! What do you most enjoy about it? It’s great! It’s exciting to be on the forefront of new innovation because we’re the newest [colour] right now and the most innovative, so I’m really happy to be a part of that. There were so many times that I actually wanted to give up on colour because the products just weren't sufficient enough to execute certain ideas in colour placement on all hair textures; it got to be very discouraging. I finally feel that I have found a home where I can be more open, diverse and expand my creativity. It feels great to be a global ambassador, which is a more expansive opportunity for me. I think this role is the perfect fit for me because I like to represent and I love sharing information, so it’s just kind of a nice gel. I think that I can do very well in the position, so that's very exciting for me. Any advice for hairstylists looking to broaden their knowledge, refine their skills or want to pursue more textured hair education? There’s a lot of online education now. I would say that the best thing when you cannot get to an in-person class is to take a professional virtual class. There are a lot of great things on YouTube, however, I think options that are more technical and not just quick, are a great educational opportunity. Virtual classes that are going to be more in-depth with a technical breakdown would be something that I would advise,

especially for someone who lives in an area where there’s not a lot of in-person education. I think it’s really important to educate yourself on a regular basis. If you can’t do it as much as you want to, do it as often as you can. What’s next for you? Anything else you’re working on or have coming up? I have some great two-day cut and colour courses happening at the Moroccanoil academy in New York. They’re hands-on, so the first day is about cutting and the second day is about colour. I’m really excited about that. I also have some independent

classes, which I still do, that are mainly focused on cutting. Some are focused on basic techniques for people who are just beginning or are straight out of cosmetology school, and others are for people who have learned more about other techniques and less on cutting techniques. They’re a great way to get a refresh or learn some really good fundamentals about cutting.

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With diversity being top of mind for more salons and businesses today, we spoke with experts on how to create a more inclusive and welcoming salon environment for clients and staff.

Canada is surrounded by a vast array of different cultures and is a melting pot of diversity. So it goes without saying that diversity should also be reflected in every aspect of the beauty industry, from staff and clientele to products and services. However, the lack thereof continues to be a challenge. “There are a lot of people who experience aggressions in this industry that can contribute to them feeling marginalized, minimized and simply unwelcomed,” says Erica Courdae, a salon owner and diversity, equity and inclusion coach based in Maryland, U.S. “I’ve experienced things as both a stylist and as a client. I think part of what’s happening is that there isn’t enough normalizing of diversity in the industry.”

Learning and Understanding

According to the Canadian Equality Consulting (CEC), a small social enterprise that offers workplace assessments, consulting, strategies, action plans and policies, diversity goes far beyond what meets the eye. “Diversity is understanding, accepting and valuing the differences between people,” says Yasmin Arnaout, lead of digital marketing for the CEC. “Inclusion is making everybody feel heard, accepted and welcomed. It’s designing things to remove barriers, discrimination and intolerance.”

Looking Within

Nancy Fonseca, senior vice president at Great Place to Work, an organization that helps businesses create a safe and welcoming workplace for all, says it’s important to assess and evaluate your

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business to recognize and address any areas that require growth or improvement. “Get a deeper understanding of your team, the services you offer and the products you carry,” she says. “This will allow you to get a deeper understanding of what you may be doing well in, and where you may be lacking in relation to inclusion and diversity.” “You have to evaluate whether or not your salon, staff and environment is safe to bring people in so that they can exist there, receive services, and understand that their hair will be cared for, and that the things that make them who they are will be respected,” adds Courdae. “Check in with your company culture and whether or not diversity is actually fostered there. Identify what diversity means to you, your salon and your team.”

Trust is Key

After an initial diversity assessment, Fonseca says it’s important to understand that trust plays a very large role in workplace diversity. “Trust is what drives a lot of that openness to diversity and inclusion, and really helps people feel like they belong,” she says. “Those concepts include credibility, respect, and how those things are demonstrated in the workplace. Diversity and inclusion are on the path of trust; people need to have a basic level of trust with colleagues and management first.” “A diverse and inclusive work environment cultivates a culture of belonging and trust for everyone,” adds Arnaout. “It provides safe spaces for employees, encourages varying perspectives, and practices psychological safety.”

Working with Staff

When starting or advancing your diversification efforts, it’s important to keep your current team informed. “Some staff members may be unaware that they make comments that can be offensive or upsetting because they’re not understanding the environment that the salon owner wants to create or maintain,” says Fonseca. “There’s no harm in getting your whole team to do the training together. It will be helpful to make sure that the staff is treating everybody, from co-workers to clients, respectfully at all times.” While some harmful comments or biases may not always be obvious, Arnaout encourages salon owners to start with training to “prevent any microaggressions rooted in biases against marginalized groups to ensure that your staff isn’t causing any harm to customers. Everyone has biases, and while we can’t get rid of them, we can learn how to recognize them and minimize the impact they have on our work.”

Hiring

“From sourcing, recruiting and assessment to application review, interviewing and reference checking, there are always things you can do to make the process inclusive,” says Arnaout. “Be objective and standardize the interview template with the same questions. Focus on skills and requirements. Pay attention to cultural biases in interviewing. Set diversity goals and highlight that you’re an equalopportunity employer while committing to not discriminating against employees.” Although some salon owners may feel that hiring a diverse team can be a challenge, or may wonder why applicants aren’t more diverse, there are some things they can do to help. “It has a lot to do with the way we brand ourselves as an organization to the outside,” says

TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, PRICE INCREASE BY CONNIE CHAU FROM NOUNPROJECT.COM

Business —

The Diversity Difference

THE EXPERTS

Erica Courdae has more than 20 years of industry experience as a salon owner and coach, and is the co-founder of Pause on the Play, a podcast that facilitates conversations about diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI).

Yasmin Arnaout is the digital marketing leader for Canadian Equality Consulting, a firm that offers diversity training and coaching for businesses.

Fonseca. “Use visual components in the advertisements you’re using so you’re demonstrating diversity. Identify and distinguish yourself in the marketplace as being a diverse and inclusive workplace that’s open to having a mix of people coming together.”

Products and Services

Nancy Fonseca is the senior vice-president at Great Place to Work Canada, a workplace accountability organization that offers consulting and a certification program for businesses.

“You have to have services that meet the needs of a diverse community,” says Fonseca. “Demonstrating an interest in diversifying the services offered makes a lot of sense. The more services you offer, the more diverse your clientele will be.” “Offer training for stylists so that customers feel like they can come in and they don’t have to go searching for people who can work with their hair texture,” says Arnaout. “Finding the right kind of

education may be a challenge but from an owner’s perspective, management has to help find or provide that education for their employees. Finding funding in the salon to help their staff train would also be great.” “Offer and specialize in services for all hair types; hair is not one-size-fits-all,” she adds. “It would benefit the team and clients to offer a wide variety of services to serve all clients’ needs. Products should also reflect all hair types and textures, so clients don’t have to try so hard to find the right products for their hair needs.”

“YOU HAVE TO ASK YOURSELF, ‘ARE YOU DOING THIS BECAUSE IT’S GOOD FOR OPTICS OR BECAUSE IT ALIGNS WITH YOUR VALUES?’ YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE IT’S SOMETHING THAT ALIGNS ACROSS THE BOARD AND IS NOT JUST A BOX TO CHECK.” — ERICA COURDAE, SALON OWNER AND DIVERSITY, EQUITY AND INCLUSION COACH, MARYLAND, U.S.

Social Media Once you’ve increased diversity and inclusion in the salon, it’s important to bring that to other areas of business, including your social media platforms. “Your company’s social media should be a reflection of the diversity in your salon, team, services, education and how you spend your money. It should be reflective of your diversity efforts offline, and if it isn’t, ask yourself why you’re doing it. To give yourself a certain appearance online that is different than how you’re running your business offline?” — Erica Courdae “Intentionality is one of the biggest pieces that is often missing. You can’t say that you welcome diversity but all the hair you portray on social media is only of one ethnicity or hair type. If you’re building a diverse workplace and want to attract a diverse clientele, then you need to align the images you put out and the language that you use. The images need to represent the client but also the skill set of your employees.” — Nancy Fonseca

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Interiors — GLOSSALON

West Coast Chic Take a look inside this Vancouver-based space that brings the ambiance of the Beverly Hills Hotel to life. BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

Teamwork Makes The Dream Work After five-and-a-half months of construction, GLOSSALON opened in June 2019. Although the construction was stressful at times, Goodridge says she enjoyed the overall process. “I was lucky to have a great contractor from Cleanline Finishing, who managed the whole thing for me, because I was still working full-time behind the chair,” she says. “My uncle is also a commercial plumber, so I had a really great team.” As fun as the idea of building her own salon was, it was only natural that Goodridge and her team ran into a few bumps along the way. “Once you start building and getting into it, you realize that some things go wrong and aren’t 60 salonmagazine.ca / May 2022

working out how you planned,” she says. “One problem we faced was that our sinks sit on the top of the room with all of the electrical for the entire building, and obviously water and electricity don’t mix. We had to figure out a different way to pump water up and over in order to keep our design the way we wanted it.” All In The Details For the salon’s design, Goodridge was inspired by the famous Beverly Hills Hotel and worked with interior designer Christa Robinson to bring her vision to life. “She was able to step in when I wasn’t able to decide,” says Goodridge, who adds that her number one priority was to create a space that was different. “In Vancouver, there’s a lot of that west coast contemporary design; everything is white, grey and neutral woods, which is wonderful, but I wanted something unique. Overall, the salon is very

PHOTOS: KRISTIN KORCH - KORCH MEDIA

After 10 years as a hairstylist, Erin Goodridge was looking for something to affirm her career in hair. After her uncle suggested that she open her own salon, the idea for GLOSSALON was born. “I can honestly say that it wasn’t something I’d ever thought about doing,” she says. “As soon as he said it, I realized that I would have the opportunity to create my own environment.”

➣

Goodridge’s favourite part of the salon is the reception area. “The neon sign is another great design element and I feel like the space is very inviting.”

DETAILS Opened June 2019 SPACE 996 square feet TEAM 6 stylists BRANDS Davines Eleven Australia INSTAGRAM @glossalonyvr

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Trust The Process Like many areas of the country, rent prices are soaring in Vancouver. With more people moving outside of the downtown core, Goodridge felt that Chinatown would be the perfect spot for her salon. “I’ve always liked Chinatown because there’s a grittiness to it that reminds me a lot of New York City. It’s both beautiful and gritty at the same time.” Although she knew the location she wanted her salon to be in, it didn’t make choosing a space any easier. “There wasn’t a lot out there,” she says. “Heritage buildings for salons were off the table because of all the electrical and plumbing we require. Once I saw the gold frames around the windows of the residential units above the space, I knew this was the spot.” From finding the perfect location to constructing the salon of her dreams, the process taught Goodridge that good things are worth waiting for. “I definitely learned to practice patience and flexibility,” she says. “In my ideal world, I thought we would be able to do it in two months and be up and running, which wasn’t the case. However, after going through the whole process, I wouldn’t change a thing.”

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PHOTOS: KRISTIN KORCH - KORCH MEDIA

warm and peaceful, and just a really fun atmosphere to be in.” While GLOSSALON features several green-coloured design elements, it’s a hue that Goodridge admits she didn’t gravitate towards at first. “Ironically enough, I was never really a green person and it’s not a colour I would have ever chosen, but once we put in the green tile on the colour bar, that’s what sparked the use of green all over the salon.” In fact, the tile ended up being one of her favourite design features of the salon. “I also really love the wallpaper because it’s a fun element that gives the pop of colour that the salon needed with all the white and green. The arches on the stations are also a favourite because it’s something different to look at.”

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Events —

Marketing director Lucas Postigo-Rombola led a presentation about the brand’s latest initiatives and success stories, and their brand managers for care, colour and styling shared some upcoming new launches—complete with a runway show! |

Inside Redken’s 2022 NSM! Salon had the exclusive opportunity to attend Redken’s annual NSM (National Sales Meeting) in Montreal, where the company shared some exciting new launches and initiatives with their distributor partners, sales consultants and attendees from across Canada. The event also included a fun cocktail celebration and leather and lace-themed party! When & Where: February 25-27, Montreal

| Sales director Angele Charette took the stage to share the brand’s goals for the year ahead and presented awards to their top-performing distributor sales consultants.

Led by education and events director Terry Ritcey (who is celebrating his 20th anniversary with Redken!) and general manager Jack Ingraham, the three-day event was full of high-energy and informative presentations.

Scoop —

Modern Merger Modern Beauty Supplies, one of Canada’s largest professional beauty suppliers, has announced its acquisition of Ontariobased distributor, Venus Beauty Supplies. Based in Calgary, Modern Beauty Supplies has been expanding with 28 store locations in Alberta, British Columbia, Manitoba and Saskatchewan, along with satellite office locations that service Ontario, Quebec, Northwest Territories and the Yukon. Venus Beauty Supplies will continue to operate under the Venus name and will maintain the same management team, employees, structure and operations. “We’re very excited about the acquisition,” says Vince Riverso, president of Venus Beauty Supplies. “With our combined knowledge and industry experience, both the Riverso and Jomaa families will bring distribution in Ontario to a new level. The opportunity for growth from this alliance will be huge for all involved.”

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The event also included guest speakers, including Glenn Baker from Summit Salon Business Centre and Shane Price from Green Circle Salons, along with motivational speaker (and CFL legend) Michael “Pinball” Clemons!

| Stephan Arsenault, president of L’Oréal’s Professional Products Division, shared his inspiring remarks and personal journey into the professional beauty industry, along with market trends and key initiatives.

Events —

Inside Moroccanoil’s Professional Haircolor Canadian Launch! Moroccanoil’s Canadian launch of their Professional Haircolor collection—a full portfolio of permanent and demi-permanent colour, along with lighteners, high lifts and colour mixers— took place at Lisa Dinh Hair Studio in Toronto. When & Where: March 21, Toronto

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Robert Ham, vice president of global education for Moroccanoil, was also in attendance, along with Vince Riverso, president of Venus Beauty Supplies, and several salon owners and hairstylists from across Ontario.

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The salon’s owner, Lisa Dinh, has recently been named the newest Moroccanoil ambassador. “The Moroccanoil Treatment is so iconic, so when Robert and the team asked me [to be an ambassador], I was honoured,” she says. “I encourage everyone to try [the colour] because it’s honestly a game changer.”

| Ham and Dinh presented six models to showcase stunning colour transformations, including shades of ash blonde, copper and rose gold.

Wella Top Artists Dana Lyseng and Antonio Quintieri showcased stunning colour transformations on five models, with shades ranging from expensive brunettes to blonde and copper.

Wella Canada Shine Forever Tour Wella Professionals hosted its Shine Forever event at the Wella Studio in Toronto for an evening of hair colour and inspiration to celebrate the brand’s newest innovation, Shinefinity. The zero lift and zero damage, demi-permanent glaze offers infinite shine possibilities for all hair types. When & Where: March 28, Toronto

PHOTOS: REDKEN, SALON STAFF

| Wella Professionals brand educator Jerica Wentzell also took to the stage to unveil a fashion colour look she created using Shinefinity.

| Among the attendees was world-renowned hairstylist Sharon Blain, Wella Studio manager Fay Linksman and Wella Company sales director Frank Bruno. salonmagazine.ca / May 2022 65

Salon Social —

Doing Their Part Small changes can make a big difference. We’re shining a spotlight on salon owners, hairstylists and experts across the country who are doing their part to help promote diversity in the industry.

Janet Jackson @janetjacksonhairstylist Toronto-based editorial hairstylist Janet Jackson has been teaching a Textured Hair Masterclass on styling techniques for kinks, curls and waves. The one-day, look-andlearn class offers a breakdown on textured hair, along with techniques for defining curls and transitioning curls to straight (silk press).

Maria Michelle’Lee @heymariamichellelee Diversity expert and educator Maria Michelle’Lee is furthering conversations about diversity and inclusion in the beauty industry by offering online coaching programs and resources for salon owners and hairstylists who are interested in learning how to diversify their salon space and services.

Lucky and Ediri Okurame @luckyhairbs

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Plaquie Zion @ebene.qc Plaquie Zion, owner of Ébène hair salon, wanted to create a safe space for Black women in Quebec City. She is also the founder of Sisterhood Quebec, a network of members that meet monthly to share and discuss issues in their community.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

This husband-and-wife duo opened their salon, Lucky Hair & Beauty Studio, during the pandemic to help address the lack of salons in Regina, Sask., that offered services for Black and textured hair.

W E N H S E R F E R Y M # COLOR DEPOSITING CONDITIONERS

AFTERERSH

#MYREF YSTIQUE & BLUE M N E V A R URPLE

Deposits color onto hair while conditioning. Lasts up to 25 washes while fading on tone Use for 1-5 minutes to refresh or tone your color Use for 10 minutes on pre-lightened hair for an intense deposit Infused with sunflower seed oil, Argan oil, and meadowfoam seed oil for enhanced softness and shine

BEFORE

shades available Crimson Spell

Magenta Magic

Purple Raven

Blue Mystique

Rose Gold

Lavender Lust

Silver Pearl