Salon Magazine, November/December 2008

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

Stylists with

Celebrity Status

plus Contessa 20 finalists

november+december 08 $5 www.salon52.ca

Dream , excel, succeed

together

BY THE WORLD’S GREATEST HAIRSTYLISTS

1 FULL DAY • • • • • • •

L’Oréal Professionnel’s New Colour Collection Spring-Summer 2009 H3 Collection 2: hair & design trends from Paris Exclusive motivating business presentation with Tanya Chernova Serious Fun for the Y Generation The Male Opportunity The Art of French Haute Coiffure Top Canadian Artists perform: Guylaine Martel, Qc (Montréal, Québec & Halifax) Heather Wenman, On (Toronto & Vancouver) And various L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Artists • International Artist ROYSTON BLYTHE - UK* Multiple Award Winning Hairdressers 2007 British Colourist of the year finalists

winnin team

be part of the

Join Joico Artists Canada.

(Award-winning attitude required)

Shannon Simmonds Winner Haircolorist of the Year 2007 Multicultural Stylist of the Year 2007 B.C. Stylist of the Year 2006

Lance Blanchette Winner B.C. Salon Team of the Year 2002 Canadian Salon of the Year 2001 Semi Finalist B.C. Salon Team of the Year 2007

Marc Galati Winner CityLine Makeover Competition 2007 Finalist Ontario Stylist of the Year 2007

Kevyn Martel Celebrity Stylist Toronto Film Festival 2005-2008

Chad Taylor Lead Stylist Paris & N.Y. Fashion Week

Kelly Hunter Winner Canadian Classic 2007 ABA Cutting Champion 2007 Manitoba Stylist of the Year 2004-2005

Dyson Lead Stylist Canadian National Team International Artist

©2008 Joico® Laboratories, Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe Claire QC H9R 5N3

HAIR: DAMIEN CARNEY COLOR: SUE PEMBERTON PHOTO: HAMA SANDERS

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JOICOARTISTSCANADA.COM

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l salon magazine

Contents noveMber+deceMber 08 www. S A LOn 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER Sassoon Chimera Collection Artist direction: Mark Hayes, Edward Parley Hair: Sassoon Creative Team Makeup: Petros Petrohilos Photography: Lachlan Bailey Wardrobe: Jonathan Kay, Katy Barker

ONTHE COVER 42

celebrity stylists

72

contessa 20 finalists

Feature There are stylists who work on celebrities, and then there are stylists who become celebrities themselves.

fEaTuREs

52

Technique: A flatter shape is created through the back by layering and sides are over directed back to maintain length in front. Top section was divided into four triangles and each section was alternated when cutting short to long. Fringe was added before blow-drying.

For colour technique visit www. salon52.ca.

FIrSt-ClaSS

50

chic changelings

52

first-class

54

raw Material

58

are you a kate, a linda or a julia?

60

a night to reMeMber

66

eleMents of illusion

Morph with a flip of hair with Sassoon

JPMS stylist Lucie Doughty gets nostalgic for the Interwar period

Aveda unearths this season’s greatest trends in its usual sustainable style

To get your ultimate smile, find out

Redken joins One X One for their annual gala fundraiser

Celebrity secrets to long, full and colourful red-carpet locks

> CONteNtS CONtINue ON PaGe 10

64

54

raw materIal

the CuttING edGe

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l salon magazine

regulars

10

12

Editor’s LEttEr

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PubLishEr’s NotE

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hairLiNEs Redken releases Spotlight Collection p.17; We want the Jonas Brothers’ hair p.18; JPMS introduces the Tool Bar p.19; Tool Time p.19; Matrix’s new Biolage addition p.20; Tigi’s new makeup collection p.20; L’Oréal encourages AIDS awareness p.20; CIABC annual meeting p.22;

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coLour Back to black

26

mEN

28

scENE TIFF 2008: Dining with the stars

30

coNtEssa GaLLErY The Hair Factory’s Shelly Simms on a joint

36

trENds

68

EsthEtics

70

NaiLs OPI says goodbye to flaking polish; Clients demand more from

74

ProfiLE Superstar Hair Challenge winner Anthony Crosfield

75

saLoN52 November+December lineup

76 78

iNtEriors Medz Salon brings Zen to the city

80

EVENts

82 85 98

scooP

The revolution in male grooming behaviour

30

CONTESSA GALLERY

effort with Karen Melay and Catherine Sutherland

Fabulashes: Eye candy in your register

76

esthetic services; OPI and LCN holiday collections

hot Products

PrEss Pass Last word

by John Steinberg

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iNTERiORS

74 PROFiLE

hAiRLiNES

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THE BEST HOLIDAY COLORS WIND UP AT OPI

RED HOT GIFT

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

Girls Just Want to Play, Red Hot Gift, Little Red Wagon, Rosy Mistletoe-sies, A Ruby for Rudolph, Don’t Toy with Me!

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

“Sheer” Your Toys!, You’re a Doll!, Glamour Game, Brand New Skates, Baby It’s “Coal” Outside!, Play ‘Til Midnight

Features OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com ©2008 OPI Products Inc.

EDITOR’S lETTER

Taking ChanCes

I

PHOTO BABAK

f there’s one thing I’ve learned throughout my life, it’s that by taking chances you’ll always learn something new. I have been very lucky to have had great mentors who helped me grow, learn and advance in my career moves over the years. In particular, I am most grateful to one LaVerne Barnes, who helped me with my writing skills way back in the day when I dreamed of one day working on a magazine and writing full-time. I would have to produce press releases for various events and products, and she taught me the value of the one-page press release—that editors don’t have time to read two pages!

Little did I know back then how true that statement would ring for me some day. She also instilled in me the value of having a good support network around you, so that the tough times would be easier to get through.

In the past four years, I’ve been very fortunate to have a fantastic supporting team to help produce such a wonderful product—Salon Magazine. It’s been an amazing roller coaster adventure, to say the least. However, the time has come for me to get off the ride and seek a new adventure.

I want to thank everyone across this great industry who’s helped make this job more interesting, fun and crazy all at once. The professional beauty world is filled with wonderfully passionate, creative people, and I have been lucky to meet and learn from many of you. Especially, I want to thank the team here at Salon Magazine for their abundant support and encouragement. And for all the times they changed layouts once more before going to press, just to make it look that much better. It’s always about making it better for you, our readers. I am very proud of the changes we’ve made and where we’ve taken the magazine during my tenure here.

I will miss it deeply.

I will continue to work on the next issue. However, I will be inviting Morella Aguirre to take the lead editor’s role and I will be supporting her as she moves into my position. Morella is a natural to take over the editorin-chief’s desk—she’s been training for this role since day one. Most of you know her like you know me. She’ll do a fantastic job. Please join me in wishing her much success in her new role. Cheers to taking chances!

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Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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NEW HEAT STYLING COLLECTION THE HOTTEST HAIR FROM NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Create the latest looks from the runway while helping to protect hair from heat damage.

NEW iron silk 07 ultra straightening spray and NEW blown away 09 protective blow-dry gel complete the collection, now repackaged in hot-hued bottles.

Runway hair — everyday, only from Redken Styling.

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA

1.866.9.REDKEN

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 17 issue 15

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com MAnAging Editor

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com AssociAtE Art dirEctor

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com EditoriAl AssistAnt

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com copy Editor

Fran Schechter sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

s many of you pick up this issue of Salon Magazine, I’m sure you’re busy preparing for the big holiday season—one of the most critical periods of the service industry. As we all know, the business has changed over the years. Gone are the days when the big rush was the four weeks leading up to Christmas. Now the festive season starts Nov. 1 and spills into early January, with parties and functions happening earlier and earlier. The season is much more spread out.

With fashion favouring the un-coiffed look, today’s hairstyles are so much simpler. Clients have mastered doing their own hair, with the exception of the updo, of course, and the occasional blowout. The service revenue has shifted. It takes a savvy marketer to put a plan in place that will bring the clients back regularly.

One such guy is Fads Assaad of Hair Junkies in Ottawa. He has some clever tricks up his sleeve, such as having clients book two or three appointments in advance, leading right into January. He runs a contest that gives clients a a chance to win a prize when they book their January appointment now.

Fads agrees the holiday season in the salon has changed over the past 20 years, but that doesn’t mean a salon can’t generate the same, if not more, income. Providing additional services such as nails, esthetics and makeup application has had a major impact on his overall sales.

It’s difficult to balance your workload over the next few months when you are crazy busy and then the phone stops ringing in January. Consider planning ahead so you can take advantage of this time to re-invigorate yourself and your staff. Many companies offer special educational trips, like the one to Mexico offered by Alberta’s International Beauty Services.

If you want a little more sizzle, Redken holds its huge Symposium in Las Vegas. Check with your distributor about such events and reward yourself.

You deserve the break and the chance to hang out with your colleagues. And as an added bonus, you’ll likely learn something new.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

contributors

Kim Hughes, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE publishEr

Catherine Emmanuel > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | catherine@beautynet.com Account rEprEsEntAtivE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com

circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

AccountAnt

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com chAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USD AddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

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Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada sA l on MAg AZ in E

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A

SEASOnAL DISORDER

Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

national Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

Top Five

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

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This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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LOVE FOR SALE A woman could spend days searching for the perfect gift for her man.

Make it easy on her. Display holiday merchandise from American Crew. Four gift sets that will drive sales and help you build your business. Ask your distributor.

BOOST HOLIDAY SALES WITH AMERICAN CREW GIFT SETS Classic Duo | Classic Trio | Grooming Set with Travel Bag | Shave Duo with Razor ©2008 American Crew, Inc. All rights reserved.

hairlines

photo courtesy redken

Mega-Watt Glamour Redken releases the Spotlight Collection, featuring Mahogany Glam hair colour w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

L

ooking to complement the plum cocktail dresses and silky mauve evening gowns that trekked down New York runways for fall 2008, Redken’s new Spotlight Collection invigorates hair with subtle burgundy glazes and soft hints of violet. Featuring Mahogany Glam hair colour, a new range of both permanent Color Fusion and demi-permanent Shades EQ hues, the Spotlight Collection focuses on red-brown mahogany as its primary tone. The secondary tone is violet. A brown to tan background and rich gold undertones are also present. Ideal for use on light to medium brunettes, the new Spotlight shades are infused with Redken’s exclusive Color Fusion Colorbond Technology, which helps to lock in colour and the integrity of your clients’ hair.—MA

november+december 08 < s a l o n

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hairlines

Boy Band Bangs

T

he Jonas Brothers—Disney's latest teen sensation—might be more familiar to your clients’ daughters than to clients themselves, but you have to admit, the boys got good hair.

Before pairing chestnut brown and layered moptops with stacked heel shoes in a stylized homage to Beatlemania—fan-frenzy included—the New Jersey-raised

pop trio sported short and neat crew cuts. Fortunately, their diverse heritage—Cherokee, Italian, Irish and German—has passed on good hair genes. After growing out the junior high hairstyles, their long locks were styled into sleek layers, pompadours and soft curls that hang over the eyes. All the better to woo those clients’ daughters with.—AM

Software that brings excitement to your business Milano Salon Software gives you all the tools you need to be successful. Create excitement in your business with eye-catching promotional emails and easy-to-use staff goal tracking tools.

To learn more about these and our other innovative features, go to

www.milanosoftware.com/salon 1·800·667·1596

Official sponsor of the NEW 2009 Contessa Salon Business Excellence Award

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megapress.ca

Teen girls might want to date them, but we just want the Jonas Brothers’ hair

hairlines

tOOl timE 1 NAmE Name: NanoSilver Helix Flatiron and Crimper wEBsitE www.hottools.com Features: Interchangeable 1” and 2” straightening and crimping plates • Quickswap interchangeable plate design for easy styling changes • Produces negative ions and far-infrared heat to add shine • Reduces frizz and improves hydration

2

BAR NONE

JPMS lets clients play with tools to boost sales Want to get tools off shelves and into homes? Make sure flatirons and blow-dryers are in clients’ hands before they can tip and dash.

John Paul Mitchell Systems previously used this concept of adding interactive, visual elements of choice during services for their successful in-salon Wash House and Color Bar. Now they’re using it to break into the the tool market.

“Salon guests are just like us. We all want to able to touch, feel and play with a product before we invest in it,” says JPMS’ senior vice-president marketing director Nina Kovner. “Our company always focuses on systems and concepts to support the products we introduce,” she explains of the creative marketing decision.

Along with upping a salon’s esthetic appearance, the ability to turn a service into an impromptu and interactive lesson creates additional value. Under stylist guidance, clients can learn how to perfect their blowout, craft expert curls or carefully iron out pin straight looks using JPMS Express Ion Complex dryers, styling irons and brushes. The technology helps speed up styling time while using different brushes and flatirons suited to individual hair types.

“JPMS Pro Tools and The Tool Bar bring us one step closer to sending the hairstylist home with the client,” says salon owner and JPMS global artistic director Robert Cromeans. “It’s an entirely new shopping experience with a focus on style.”

Kovner also adds that, along with promoting the tools, The Tool Bar makes it simple for salons to promote sales. “It lets clients touch and feel the tools, which ultimately makes it easier for the stylist and salon to make the sale without the traditional pitch,” she says.—AM

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NAmE Name: Verthos Professional Hairstyling Iron wEBsitE www.verthos.com Features: Carbon-neutral iron verified by Zerofootprint, a non-profit organization that provides information, products and services to people and businesses working to reduce their environmental impact. • The life cycle of five Verthos irons is offset by the planting and 10-year growth of one Ontario spruce tree • One-inch width with advanced tourmaline ceramic technology and dual microchip temperature control • Automatically senses and maintains desired temperatures at all times • Heats up to the maximum temperature in less than 60 seconds

3 NAmE Name: Kevin.Murphy Hair.Curlers wEBsitE www.kevinmurphy.com.au Features: Curlers contain tiny hair-like ridges that feed hair evenly onto the surface • Self-fastening and snag-free

4

NAmE Name: Hot Styler Vibrating Styling Iron wEBsitE www.firstladyproducts.com

Features: Tourmaline ionic flatiron with the ability to vibrate • Vibrations help hair slide through plates with ease, decreasing hand fatigue • Vibrations also help emit ions that promote natural moisture • Equipped with a digital temperature display • Lightweight and designed with the user in mind

november+december 08 < s a l o n

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hairlines

Glam Touch Give the rock star treatment with Tigi’s Rock ‘n’ Royalty collection

G

lamming up your clients just got easier.

Tigi’s new Rock ‘n’ Royalty line offers up 24-karat sizzle in shimmering jewel tones and illuminating golden tones. Go to www.salon52.ca to see the full collection.—MA

Flake-free Matrix adds anti-dandruff system to therapy line of products Sensitive scalps suffer breakdowns due to a multitude of causes, like heat damage, product buildup and environmental stresses. Luckily, Matrix’s new Biolage Scalpthérapie Antidandruff line is bridging therapy and hair care for relief. Three products—a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in treatment—utilize the soothing, anti-inflammatory effects of mallow root, the toning benefits of green tea and the anti-dandruff agent pyrithione zinc to control and reduce flakes. The leavein treatment is perfect for a client on the go; it can be applied four times daily for on-demand relief.—AM

Act on AIDS L’Oréal Professionnel introduces limited-edition products to encourage AIDS awareness

H

airstylists have a unique rapport with their clients, and L’Oréal Professionnel is using this face-to-

face relationship to promote discussion about HIV/AIDS and its Hairdressers Against AIDS (HAA) foundation.

Coinciding with World AIDS Day on Dec. 1, and to commemorate HAA’s first anniversary, LP is offering limited-edition tecni.art products. Ten per cent of the sales from these products will benefit the Canadian AIDS Society, a national coalition of 125 AIDS groups across the country.

Anna Pacitto-Merlo, from Montreal’s Salon Pure, is an LP portfolio artist and the HAA ambassador. She says many North Americans have become complacent about HIV/AIDS issues. “What’s great about the HAA’s worldwide organization is that each country caters to its community. It’s about spreading change and prevention, country by country, city by city, hairdressers by hairdresser, client by client, friend by friend.”—AM

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NATURE IS ALLURING

Nature is inspiring, creative and sexy with a style all her own.

Part artist, part innovator, nature has already given us everything we could ever need to take care of ourselves. For over 10 years weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been sharing natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wisdom by creating products that respect the health of our environment and the people using them. yours truly, eufora 800-6-eufora | www.eufora.net

hairlines

bc beat

CIABC update

t

Newly elected board of CIABC directors

Turquoise

Colour Gel

Multi-Color

Miracle Glitter

Volcanic glow

Green Hexagon

1. 8 0 0 . 5 5 7. 3 2 2 3 BC

AB

SK

MB

|

1. 8 8 8 . 8 5 9 . 3 4 3 4

he Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia (CIABC) held its annual general meeting on Sep. 7 with a turnout considerably larger than in the past few years, thus accommodating a healthy session of member views and comments. Re-elected to a board of five for a second term were Martin Constable (vice-chair), Omar Kanani and Herman Schut (chair). They rejoin fellow directors Mark Banicevic and Lorraine Isenbecker.

“The past year was certainly not without challenges,” says association chair Herman Schut. “However, it was a benchmark year from which the association has progressed in terms of leadership, integrity and membership appeal.” Schut also praised the membership and association staff for their efforts toward achieving key accomplishments such as registering over 7,000 members, conducting and processing over 800 industry examinations, sponsoring and helping to organize Team Canada at Hair World in Chicago and organizing and hosting the seven-day Education on Vacation cruise in the Mexican Riviera in January.

“The key mandate for the CIABC in the upcoming year will be to support and help the government initiatives toward re-regulating industry standards,” says Schut.

According to Schut, the association is well positioned to be an important resource in this process. He went on further to say, “The days will soon return when scrutiny will again be in place to ensure that the highest possible standards of education, work quality and safety in our industry are enforced, to the benefit of the industry and the public who use our services.”—SP

CENTR AL & E AST

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Headshot

™

shines, hydrates

nourishes

Photography: Anthony Mascolo & Roberto Aguilar Hair: Nick Irwin Make up: Pat Mascolo Styling: Jiv D

sold only in professional salons • 800.259.8596 • tigihaircare.com

colour

Rihanna recently parted with her pitchblack pixie for a brunette boy cut.

Nicole Scherzinger, Pussycat Dolls

Back to black

W

As high-gloss, jet-black hair achieves more and more mainstream appeal, it’s your job to make sure raven-haired wannabes are ready for the commitment.

hen good-girl Rihanna went bad, she swapped her honey-drenched extensions for a sleek, ebony-coloured crop. Pussycat Dolls frontwoman Nicole Scherzinger has constantly added drama to her striptease-flavoured image with long and glossy charcoal locks. Meanwhile, Leigh Lezark of the DJ collective MisShapes keeps her New York scenester look happening with a steady stream of blue-black shoulder-length bobs.

In other words, although the colour still represents a healthy dash of the underworld, blackerthan-black hair has gone way beyond the goth clubs—meaning that the neutral or cool black tints at your colour bar may be getting more action than they’ve ever gotten before. With this in mind, Salon spoke to colour maven Susan Hayward of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto to get her top tips on going black, and then coming back.

1.

Be clear about the commitment “You need to assess how serious your clients are about going black,” says Hayward. “Tell them the worst-case scenario: you won’t be able to go blonde for at least two years. Their reaction will tell you if they’re ready for the commitment.”

2.

Note your starting point The less drastic the change, the easier the process will be on the hair. “You’ll likely need to pre-colour or layer on dark pigments on blonde hair to get an even result,” notes Hayward.

“The lighter or longer the hair is, the harder it will be to change back to its original colour.”

3.

Be realistic about colour correction “Getting black out of hair is an arduous process. Going back to a lighter shade will increase hair’s sensitivity. Also expect hair to hold on to a lot of warmth during the process.”

Assess skin, eye colour and lifestyle Skin and eye colour will help determine whether a client will suit black hair, but so will his or her fashion sense. “Someone with an extreme sense of style will be able to pull it off,” says Hayward.

Leigh Lezark, member of NYC DJ trio MisShapes

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5.

Keep it tidy “Your clients don’t want to leave the salon looking like they’ve just been mud-wrestling. With inky-black pigments, it’s important to be clean and neat with your application.”—MA

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keystone press agency

4.

men

manthropology The revolution in male grooming behaviour

A

re you tired of doing the same old boring cuts for your male

clients? Looking for a fun way to get them excited about changing up their looks or enticing them to try new services?

“If you always do things the same way, you will always get the same results,” says Joseph Gossen, concept and image coordinator for distributor Star Bédard in Quebec. He’s been doing hair and makeup for over 20 years and photography for six. Gossen has come up with a fun and interesting way of categorizing some of your male clients and what they may be open to when they fit a certain category of male.

Aside from the metrosexual, which is still used to categorize certain men, Gossen has some interesting takes for you to consider. He developed his profiles to help salons see male clients as more than just men who come in for a standard hair cut every six weeks. He says, “You need to adjust to the reality of today’s marketplace. Men are now open to many different services—just like women—and you need to adapt your marketing and the way you speak to them.” Here are some of Gossen’s examples to help you delineate some of your male client base, with a typical celebrity to match.—SP

metrosexual:

megapress.ca

David Beckham (the man who started it all)

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ighly aware of his looks. Manicure and pedicure are part of his regular vocab. He is conscious of all aspects of life (image, wellbeing, social life). He goes to the gym regularly, shopping is a

must, and hanging in lounges is where he is most often seen. He wants both men and women to recognize him. The metrosexual male is passionate about himself, knows the difference between toner and exfoliant and is aware of which brand is trendy, so don’t ever try to fool him.

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Will Smith

keystone press agency

Heteropolitan:

Über-sexual: Christian Bale

keystone press agency

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megapress.ca

e’s all about sports, gadgets, portable—all the newest, trendiest and hippest things. The urban male loves to hang with his friends (both male and female) and lives an unpredictable life. His brands are G-Star, Diesel, Triple Five Soul and Ecko. He’s modern and progressive, wants to define his own style and has little interest in following the mainstream. He does not follow what designers tell him to wear. In fact, he tells designers what he wants to wear. The progressive urban male wants to stand out from the crowd. He wants to be noticed when he walks into a party.

T

his is the newest term for the ordinary man who knows how to dress but is still very manly. He’s neither a beer-drinking über-sexual, obsessed with hockey and cigars, nor an excessively moisturized, pink-shirted, spa-going metrosexual. The heteropolitan is an in-between mix who enjoys both the bars and the spas, and is committed to his girlfriend, wife or family. He claims love and laughter as his route to happiness and is never shy when it comes to sex.

The heteropolitan drives automobiles that strike a balance between power and practicality. He’s the main reason we’ve seen an emergence in crossover vehicles like the Nissan Murano, Mercedes R-Class, Acura MDX or the Mazda CX-9 that have the power of a sports car and the comfort of a family car.

ore polished than the classic male, more masculine than a metrosexual. He is dedicated to his style and business and has clearly defined goals and needs. He has good relationships with women but does not go out of his way to seek a woman’s acceptance or approval. The über-sexual is passionate about principles.

He spends more time grooming his mind than his hair. Both the über and metro treat and respect women as equals, but the über considers other men—not women—his best friends. The über is sensual, not at all selfconscious and doesn’t need other people to tell him he’s sexy. He knows the difference between right and wrong and will make the right decision regardless of what others around him may think.

Intro-centric: Johnny Depp

A megapress.ca

H

Urban: Shia LaBeouf

lthough he’s mysterious and charming, the intro-centric male hides beneath a mundane exterior and contrived façade and shows very little emotion. With a dry humour, this male type avoids relationships and suffers from commitment phobia. His dress code is plain and discreet, much like his hairstyle. His hair part, colour and the products he uses are all precise, all memorized.

To quote an intro-centric male: “Normal people are so hostile.” S

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SCene

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lAurA lINNEY AND JOIcO'S KEVYN MArtEl

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MElANIE GrIffIth AND ANtONIO BANDErAS

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Going inside TIFF with Joico Text by Stephen Puddister

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t was a couple of evenings of up-close star-gazing as we were invited by hair care sponsor Joico to join the Cast Dinners for the launch of two movies at the 33rd edition of the Toronto International Film Festival.

On Sep. 7, I was among a select group of lucky souls who mingled, noshed and imbibed, at Sopra Upper Lounge with the stars of the movie The Other Man. Antonio Banderas (with wife Melanie Griffith in tow), the lovely Laura Linney and lady heart stopper Liam Neeson smiled, chatted and broke bread before they jumped in limos and got whisked away to the screening.

Joico’s Kevyn Martel was on hand to dish out hair care advice as needed. Nataly Avila, brand manager for Joico Canada, also rubbed shoulders with the stars.

Later that same night, we headed to W Studio, the site of several other after-parties, and got to hang with the likes of Academy Award-winning actor Adrien Brody and producer Harvey Weinstein, co-founder of Miramax Films, among other notables. I took so many photos of Brody that his PR girl looked worried.

The next night I got to do it all over again with the likes of Alan Alda and Kate Beckinsale for the movie Nothing But The Truth. The excitement in the room was elevated to hushed hysteria as Adrien Brody showed up to support his colleagues.

Or maybe he was lured back by Sopra’s fabulous cuisine. No matter, in this scene he made the hearts of several women, and a few men, flutter.

And that was my TIFF for 2008. Not a bad gig really. S

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Industrial Arts Shelly Simms speaks about her joint effort with Karen Melay and Chelsea Sutherland for Contessa 19

Edited by Morella Aguirre

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aren, Chelsea and I based our

Contessa 19 collection around geometric shapes and the idea of futurism. As always, our first step was to look through magazines to get a sense of what was current and happening in fashion. We ended up being drawn to space age imagery and a lot of photographs of buildings and architecture. It led an industrial feel to our collection that was a lot more edgy than what we have done in the past.

The most important element in creating a good team collection is communication.

We begin planning our photos about four or five months before shooting. We share our individual ideas and decide on a team idea.

We then go our separate ways, brainstorm on our own and then return to share again with the team. Once things start to take shape more concretely, it becomes critical to discuss plans or create something that’s too repetitive.

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with the team so that we don’t duplicate a look

Hair: Karen Melay, Shelly Simms and Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, Newfoundland Makeup: Veronica B. Chu Wardrobe: Cam Patey Photos: Doug McMillan

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Movie Muse Simms describes the Hair Factory’s Contessa 19 collection as edgy and very The Matrix.

Inspiration Hair Factory’s Contessa

19 storyboard

Sweet Treat jupiterimages

In order to achieve a healthy look and shine, Melay, Sutherland and Simms worked with their models months in advance, applying targeted treatments and strengthening service to each girl’s hair. “This way, when we were ready to colour, their hair could handle it,” explains Simms.

Architectural Digest The team set out to create geometric shapes with an industrial feel after viewing countless photographs of buildings and architecture. S

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Hair: Christine Margossian for Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel Collection: Romain Noir Photos: courtesy Christine Margossian

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Film Noir

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Collection: Framesi fall/winter 2008 Energy collection Hair: Framesi Artistic Team Photos: courtesy Framesi

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Collection: 2008 Hair Trends Hair: Karaal Artistic Team Photos: courtesy Karaal

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Celebrity Stylists

There are stylists who work on celebrities. Then there are stylists who become celebrities themselves. B y S t e p h e n

Puddister

Q+A

What does the word “celebrity” mean to you now?

“Respect, if you have earned it.”

What is the funniest thing that’s ever happened to you at work?

“Being there.”

Who is your hero?

“The young hairdresser who comes to New Orleans with the altruistic spirit of building a house for the homeless.”

photos courtesy Vidal sassoon

V

idal Sassoon changed the face of the hair industry and the lives of women the world over with the creation of his revolutionary haircut.

Based on the relationship of geometric shapes to individual bone structure, his classic Sassoon cut, with its meticulous shape and exacting lines, was widely publicized when it was introduced in the 60s. It freed women once and for all from the tedious, time-consuming routine of setting, backcombing and lacquering their tresses. Over 40 years later, this system of cutting has led hundreds of thousands of hairstylists to phenomenally successful careers, as their craft was transformed into an art form.

Today Vidal Sassoon heads the Vidal Sassoon Foundation, dedicated to pursuing his philanthropic interests worldwide. In early 2007 he rallied hairstylists from across the United States and Canada to create Hairdressers Unlocking Hope with Mary Rector-Gable of behindthechair.com, an initiative to help Habitat for Humanity build homes in the Gulf Coast in partnership with low-income families displaced by the 2005 hurricanes. Now in its second year, Hairdressers Unlocking Hope broke ground on nine new houses in St. Tammany Parish near Slidell, Louisiana, last June.

What is your current bedtime reading?

“A book on Benjamin Disraeli, who by allowing the masses to vote did much for democracy.”

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Vidal Sassoon

How many jobs have you held in your lifetime?

“Many. If I could not learn, I left.”

The plight of homeless hurricane victims resonates deeply with Sassoon, who as a child endured hardships that left him homeless and in a London orphanage for six years. “There is so much work to be done to restore housing and hope for low-income families who are still in temporary housing.”

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Q+A

What do you think has contributed most to your celebrity?

A: I’ve filmed over 200 episodes on What Not to Wear. It’s shown people all over the country that I am down to earth and love what I do.

Do you think celebrity is overrated?

A: I don’t consider myself a celebrity, so it’s hard to answer, but it’s obvious how people really love and admire those in the media and it is amazing how beneficial it can be for your career.

What was your first job? How did you like it?

A: My first job was as a DJ. I started when I was 12 and never stopped. I’ve always loved music, so this was a perfect fit.

What is the funniest thing that’s ever happened to you at work?

A: Believing a fire that burned down Bumble and Bumble when I worked there in 1995 was an April Fools joke. It was April 1 and I got a call not to come into work. I still went in and quickly realized it was no joke.

t

Have you ever been in a fight?

A: Every day! Living and working in New York, trying to run a successful business is a constant battle.

I

Nick Arrojo

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photos courtesy Arrojo studio

n 2002 Nick Arrojo became the hairstyling guru for the hit reality TV show What Not to Wear. With 8 million viewers tuned in to TLC’s number-one program every week, he became a household name. Born in Manchester, England, Nick’s career began as a Vidal Sassoon apprentice. He won the prestigious Young Hairdresser of the Year Award and at 21 became Vidal’s youngest-ever assistant creative director.

After 20 years in the industry, including stints as creative seminar leader for Wella International and director of education for Bumble and Bumble, he opened Arrojo Studio in Manhattan’s SoHo district in 2001. Arrojo Studio expanded this past spring to include Arrojo Academy for advanced education and a cosmetology school. His leadership fosters a culture committed to growth, development and excellence in the industry. St. Martin’s Press has just published Nick’s first book, titled Great Hair, released in October—a self-help hairstyling handbook for women with secrets for looking fabulous and feeling beautiful. A frequent stylist at New York fashion shows, he also does regular guest appearances on ABC and NBC networks for hair-related news stories. His hidden talent? Drawing and sketching.

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Q+A What do you think has contributed most to your celebrity?

That word still makes me wonder. I do what I do because, inspired by Mom, I love to celebrate women and make them feel beautiful. So for people to celebrate my work, I am so grateful.

I believe when I work with women they really feel that I am there for them, 100 per cent about them, and that my sole goal is to make them feel beautiful, which in return resonates as outward beauty. When I designed Celine Dion’s A New Day show in Las Vegas, the last line they wrote in my bio in the program said the best thing about me may not be the hair I style, but that I have never forgotten I am in the service industry: I hope to always be remembered for that!

K

en Paves has been dubbed the hottest hairstylist in Hollywood by many a media outlet. Over the past 14 years his work has appeared in most of the top fashion and style magazines. He’s created award-winning styles for the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Celine Dion, Eva Longoria, Fergie and Jessica Simpson to name a few. Simpson was the inspiration for his incredibly successful line of clip-in hair extensions—Hairdo. He’s been a regular guest on Oprah since 2003 and has done countless appearances for entertainment and fashion programs. He’s a golden boy in the industry for sure. But with all this success he’s still pretty grounded.

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What is your hidden talent?

Building! I’m like Bob the Builder at home. My tool kit is more impressive than my hair kit! t

Ken Paves

How many jobs have you held in your lifetime?

Enough for a lifetime—from cleaning model homes to fast food restaurants, setting up mobile homes and delivering windows for Erb Lumber. I was a gardener and I also worked in a factory wearing steel plates over my shoes. I airbrushed trains for Lionel Trains and planted flowers in a nursery. I did checkout at Blockbuster and cleaned at two salons. Then my last job before the title “celebrity hairstylist” was “house mum” at a strip club in Miami Beach. I would buy mints, deodorant— whatever they needed—and style the girls’ hair— all for free, just for tips. I made $75 a week as a hair assistant and hundreds a night in the club. I worked from 8am until 7pm at the salon, and then 9pm until 4am at the club...but finally I could afford to eat! In 1996 I had my first cover with Nikki Taylor.

The shoot was covered by my mom’s favourite show, Fox After Breakfast....I was suddenly a celebrity hairstylist.

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photos courtesy hairuWear

What does the word “celebrity” mean to you now?

Being recognized for something, no matter how great or small that something is. We all deserve our celebrity moments...celebrity student, mother, sister, even hairstylist. You don’t need the world’s recognition to be a celebrity—celebrate yourself!

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Sally Hershberger Q+A

Q. What do you think has contributed most to your celebrity?

Talent and smart business decisions.

Styling is a competitive field, and I’m constantly finding ways to set myself apart from my peers.

Q. What does the word

“celebrity” mean to you now?

Celebrity means influence and popularity.

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day at work and then at home?

photographers has grown to include Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz, Helmut Newton, Arthur Elgort, Matthew Rolston, Patrick Demarchelier, Ruven Afanador, Michael Thompson, Reagan Cameron and Pamela Hanson.

Her list of celebrity clientele—she’s been cutting and styling many of them for several years—is equally impressive. It includes Michelle Pfeiffer, Tom Cruise, Eva Longoria, Sandra Bullock, Nicole Kidman, Brad Pitt, John Mayer, Courtney Love, Mia Farrow, Faith Hill, Renée Zellweger, Julia Roberts, Cindy Crawford, Jane Fonda, Jon Bon Jovi, Kate Bosworth and Kate Moss. She’s also styled the looks for many in their on-screen work. In 2007, Sally joined forces with BRAVO as lead judge on their hit reality series Shear Genius. This year she launched her eponymous hair care line—Sally Hershberger Supreme Head.

I love the “perfect” shoot, when everything just works. There’s something so gratifying about seeing a photo that needs very little retouching.

At the salon, it’s always a good day when everything runs smoothly and people leave happy. At home, there’s nothing better than a quiet and chill night.

Q. Have you ever been in a fight?

I had to fight all throughout my career to get to where I am.

Q. What quality do you admire most in others?

Loyalty and sincerity.

S

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photo courtesy sally hershberger

S

ally Hershberger is one of the most influential and sought-after hairstylists in Hollywood and New York. She is a favourite of directors and celebrities alike for her innovative style, vision and skill. Equally in demand in the world of fashion, she’s the top choice for a number of the world’s most renowned photographers and models, shooting multi-million dollar campaigns along with covers for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, W, Allure, Vanity Fair and many more.

Born in Kansas and raised in California, Sally began doing hair at 18, landing an apprenticeship with Arthur Johns while still in beauty school. It was at this well-known Hollywood salon where she first began working with celebrities and establishing relationships with people like Herb Ritts, with whom she worked steadily on some of the biggest names in Hollywood, that lead to her success. Since then, her list of

Q. What’s your idea of a perfect

Chic Changelings

t

Morph with a flip of hair with Sassoon Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

he best of the ’80s—and we’re not talking mullets and leg warmers—is written all over the latest collections by unconventional fashion designers Roland Mouret, Giles Deacon and Gareth Pugh. Their common interest lies in bold glamour made semi-androgynous by edgy detailing—the same enigmatic trend that inspired Sassoon’s Chimera collection, a series of blunt, graphic and expertly coloured hairstyles.

“Chimera’s shapes are quite short in the back but with lots of lengths cut through the top to make hair move,” says Lorraine McAndrew, creative director for Sassoon Salon Toronto. “It can be styled in lots of different ways,” she adds, pointing to the way panels of hair appear interlocked or look

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as if they’ve been ruffled underneath by the wind.

Layer and nuance also apply to Chimera’s colour, which John Beeson, regional colour director for Sassoon Salon Toronto, compares to the natural luminescence of iridescent beetles.

“There are bold sections of colour throughout the hair, so as the hair moves you can see different levels—almost like gasoline in sunlight,” he explains. “This results in completely different looks coming from the same head of hair.”

Perfect for the part-time exhibitionist, Chimera gets points for its wearability. “Sassoon generates looks that are tailored but also wash-and-wearable,” says McAndrew. “You can run your fingers through hair with confidence and know it’ll look good.” For the full collection, visit www.salon52.ca.

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Collection: Chimera Artist direction: Mark Hayes, Edward Parley Styling/colouring: Sassoon Creative Team Makeup: Petros Petrohilos Wardrobe: Jonathan Kay, Katy Barker Photos: Lachlan Bailey S

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first-class JPMS stylist Lucie Doughty gets nostalgic for the Interwar period T e x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

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oday, train stations and airports brim with tracksuit-clad travellers ready to ride in comfort. But in the ’20s and ’30s, when travel was still a luxury, coats and frocks were more the norm. That opulence inspired the seven-image Clocks collection by John Paul Mitchell Systems editorial director Lucie Doughty.

“I took the beauty of that era, when people dressed elegantly for travel, and put a new twist on what it could be today,” says Doughty of the collection, which is set among heavy trunks and oversized clocks.

“I worked with tucked bob shapes, asymmetry and zigzag sets to put a modern twist on classic fingerwaves,” she explains. The secret to the update is also in unexpected hits of unkepmtness like loose curls spilling from beneath a sculpted updo.

Check out the full collection at www.salon52.ca. to

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Collection: Clocks Hair: Lucie Doughty, assisted by Rosie Fuentes Makeup: Dorit Genazzani Wardrobe: Adria Heath Photos: August Bradley S

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raw material Aveda unearths this season’s greatest trends in its usual sustainable style Text by Morella Aguirre

R

aw Beauty, Aveda’s hair and makeup collection for fall/winter 2008, translates symbols of the indigenous Yawanawa people of the Brazilian Amazon into a unique vision of global beauty and style trends. Aveda’s

sourcing partners for uruku pigment since 1993, the Yawanawa tribe served as a starting point for Aveda’s artistic team, a group of seasoned stylists and makeup artists led by global creative director Antoinette Beenders.

The collection’s bold colour patterns and shapes transform Yawanawa tradition into modern, versatile looks, ranging from pixie-style short cuts to long, texturized layers. Hair and face colours are earthy, but glamorous in red and violet tones. by elegant but unconventional updos.

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Versatility and movement are also heavily emphasized and demonstrated

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Collection: Raw Beauty Creative direction: Antoinette Beenders Hair: Tom Kroboth, Gerard Scarpaci Colour: Jeffrey Scott, Lupe Voss Makeup: Angela Conti-Smith Wardrobe: Damian Foxe Photos: Miguel Reveriego S

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3.

2.

1.

Are you a Kate, a Linda or a Julia?

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To get your ultimate smile, find out.

You may love Julia Roberts’s complex smile, but if you’re a cuspid, trying to achieve a complex smile is like changing your hair colour from dark brown to blond. You can do it, but unless you change your eyebrow colour, your skin tone and continuously touch up your roots, you’re never going to look like a natural blond. Similarly, if you want to achieve a smile that’s not your style, you’ll need an extreme smile lift— including veneers on all of your teeth.

Alternatively, if you don’t like your smile and want it to look good, your best bet is to follow your smile style. Most smiles can be made into their ideal smile style with the help of just six veneers on the upper set of teeth.

here are three smile styles, says Dr. Ed Philips of the Studio For Aesthetic Dentistry, who developed a formula for smile patterns 12 years ago. Sixty-seven per cent smile like Kate Hudson. Thirty-one percent smile like Linda Evangelista and only two per cent smile like Julia Roberts. By discovering your smile style, you’ll be able to achieve your ultimate smile. To find your smile style, stand in front of a mirror and form a smile. Then, match up the results of how your smile forms with the descriptions below.

1.

The Commissure Smile— Kate Hudson

As you smile, the corners of your lips should rise toward your ears. Since your lips follow the shape of your teeth, the ideal smile will have teeth that are longer in the front and slowly rise up toward the molars at the back. Over time, your front teeth will wear down naturally, but the molars will not so instead of having a curved smile, you’ll have a flat smile. To correct your smile, you’ll need six veneers on your top row to enlarge the front teeth.

2.

The Cuspid Smile— Linda Evangelista

As you smile your lip rises up to the highest point above the eye teeth, and starts to curve back downward at the corners. Similarly, the teeth follow this shape, so that the top molars hang lower than the front teeth. The problem with the cuspid smile is that the front teeth often wear down, so molars end up hanging lower than the front teeth. Since your lips will follow your teeth line, the result is a “sad” smile. To fix, your front six teeth on the top row need to be slightly enlarged.

3.

The Complex Smile— Julia Roberts

As you smile, all the muscles pull back at the same time. Instead of your lips following your teeth line, your two rows of teeth follow each other, creating a silhouette. Your bottom teeth are as important as your top teeth in achieving this smile. The top and bottom row must be parallel to each other. Typically, if you veneer your top teeth, you will need to also veneer the bottom teeth, to ensure that you keep the complex smile. S

Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

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megapress.ca

GETTING YOUR IDEAL SMILE

By Chantel Simmons

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In the wake of recent storms in Haiti, musician Wyclef Jean asked the crowd to participate in the Haiti emergency relief fund.

A Night to Remember I Redken joins One X One for their annual gala fundraiser

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t’s the Toronto International Film Festivals’ most coveted ticket, and once again this year the One X One gala didn’t disappoint.

Oscar winner Matt Damon returned for a third year in a row to host the September 8 event at the historic Maple Leaf Gardens arena. Joining him were celebrity guests John Legend and Wyclef Jean, Canadian heavyweights Belinda Stronach, Edward and Suzanne Rogers and Alexandra and Galen Weston, and young philanthropists Craig and Marc Kielburger and Ryan Hreljac, for a night of entertainment, enlightenment and, of course, fundraising.

Naturally, the Redken team was there to show their commitment to the foundation and to honour their $100,000 contribution—money that was raised by over 130 salons across Canada during this year’s Redken One X One annual cut-a-thon. One X One founder Joelle Adler thanked all her partners, and singled out Redken in her speech for their unwavering support.

After the live auction, speeches and touching tributes, five-time Grammy winner Legend serenaded the lucky crowd.

But it was Jean who got them to their well-heeled feet and got the party started.

One X One is a non-profit foundation committed to preserving and improving the lives of children in Canada and around the world. All the proceeds from the foundation and the gala go to global children’s charities. For a complete list of Redken salons that participated in the cut-a-thon this year, visit www.salon52.ca.

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photos (EXCEpt REDKEN tEAM) gEoRgE piMENtEl

By Tina Christopoulos

The top three fundraising salons for One X One this year were Tangles in Red Deer, HeadKandi in Calgary and Salon Escape, Yorkville in Toronto.

© 2008 Helen of Troy. All rights reserved. (PR2152)

Tips on what you can do • BE INFORMED Almost one in six children lives in poverty in Canada • DO YOUR HOMEWORK Visit www.onexone.org for more information • OPEN YOUR HEART Get on board by participating in next year’s Redken One X One cut-a-thon

tina christopoulos

Call 866.9.REDKEN for information

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Clockwise from top right: Five-time Grammy Award winner John Legend performs; One X One founder Joelle Adler with gala host Matt Damon; the Redken team; rapper K’naan and host and producer of MTV’s 4Real Sol Guy; comedian Russell Peters with members of the African Children’s Choir; Wyclef Jean. S

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What you need to know about shears and why you need to know it

The Cutting edge

By Pam Fulford

“A

stylist is only as good as the tools he or she uses.” That’s the word according to Stephen Pavlick of DWA, the distributor for Kasho shears in Canada. “A top-quality pair of shears is the best investment you can make in your career. Not only do they make your work more precise, they also reduce the chances of fatigue after a long day in the salon. When looking for shears, stylists should look at the quality of steel, the edge on the blade and the craftsmanship that goes into them.” Here are some points to remember.

The Hardware

Kenchii

The different grades of metal used in manufacturing shears make a big difference, according to Randy Ferman from Shark Fin Shears.

“Cast metal shears are the cheapest quality. They’re brittle and could shatter. Forged metal is denser, and the best shears are forged metal with separate handles hand-welded on.”

He adds that Shark Fin only uses 440A or higher Japanese Hitachi steel. “Japanese components are the best.”

Hot Hot Heat “Heat treatment is the most important part of manufacturing a pair of shears,” says Woody Michleb, owner of Woody Michleb Hair Salon and the Canadian rep for Kenchii shears. “You can use the best metals in the world, but if they’re not heattreated correctly, then you just have an average pair of shears in your hands. It will affect the strength of the handle and shear and the durability of the blade.”

Kasho

The Right Fit

Shark Fin

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“Ergonomics are a major consideration in terms of use and handling. Think about what you are using your shears for—slide cutting, point cutting, texturizing thick or curly hair, precision cutting,” notes Michleb.

According to Ferman, swivel shears—shears with 360-degree

rotating thumbs—are far better for hand alignment, since they adapt to fit the hand of the user. “The handle fits the hand. The hand doesn’t have to fit the handle,” explains Ferman. Shark Fin Shears’ patented handle goes a step further and perfectly aligns the user’s index to little finger, which not only allows for better control over the shears, but greatly reduces the risk of tendonitis, arm pain and carpal tunnel syndrome. Moreover, Shark Fin’s patented Shear Fit system—a collection of finger-fitting guards that can be added or removed to customfit each shear—give added control and comfort. “We don’t buy clothing or shoes that don’t fit, so why should we buy shears that are not fitted to our own thumb and finger size?” asks Ferman.

Blade Runner “A convex edge on the blade is preferable to a bevelled edge because it is quieter and more precise,” says Ferman.

Final Tips Every stylist should look for quality first, as the shears they use will be with them for a long time, advises Michleb.

“Go for quality,” agrees Pavlick.

Finally, Ferman concludes: “Decide on your price point and choose the best shears you can afford. Do your research. Talk to other stylists and benefit from their experience.” S

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NP-Gold

Nano Silver Technology & Tourmaline Ceramic Flat Iron

NANO302

Nano Silver Technology & Far-infrared Ceramic Flat Iron

Free iron holder with purchase NP Group 1-800-267-4247 www.npgroup.ca

Celebrity secrets to long, full and colourful redcarpet locks

By Tina Christopoulos

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t’s no secret that celebrities use an arsenal of tricks to get red-carpet ready, and one of their best tools is trusty hair extensions. So when your clients come looking for that extra-special style this holiday season, why not offer them the Hollywood solution?

“Clients nowadays want to be more versatile,” says Great Lengths lead educator Melanie O’Connor. “Gone are the days of signature styles defined by different eras. Now they want one look for going to work, another for going out to dinner with their husbands—and they want a quick fix without damaging their hair.”

O’Connor goes on to explain that with extensions, the possibilities are endless: straight, curly, long, short. “And it can do wonders for your look. How do you think Britney completed her transformation at the MTV Video Awards?”

Other A-list addicts include Lindsay Lohan, and surprisingly, even the bob-sporting Rihanna uses extensions to add volume and asymmetry to her cut.

“Just by adding one or two bundles on the crown area

or on the fringe, you can create the illusion of density,” says O’Connor.

Cam Toutounghi from Montreal-based ER Extensions also recommends using extensions to add a touch of colour to holiday ’dos. “We offer 15 different fashion colours that temporarily or permanently add fashion holiday color-lights to your client’s hair,” he says.

Extensions are also a great temporary add-on when creating updos. Toutounghi recommends clip-on extensions that quickly and easily add enough length and volume to create the most elaborate chignons and updos. ER Extensions also offer the PTAILS Pony Tails, easy to install by joining seamlessly to your client’s hair. You can simply clip them on as an instant ponytail and style into an updo. See more tips on doing holiday hair with extensions, from Dream Catchers, on salon52.ca this month.

For more information on Great Lengths extensions, visit www.greatlengths.com, and for more on ER Extensions, visit www.erhair.com. S

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KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

I

Elements of illusion

Takara Company, Canada, Ltd. 2076 South Sheridan Way Mississauga ON L5J 2M4

1.800.268.5351

tel. 905.822.2755 fax. 905.822.6203

www.takarabelmont.ca

ESTHETICS

fabulashes EYE CANDY IN YOUR REGISTER

By Colette Wright

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PHOTOS COURTESY LASH BE LONG

i

n the midst of economic uncertainty, you may be concerned about how to keep your clients coming back for regular appointments or possibly piquing their interest in trying new services. If you want to boost your bottom line in these anxious times, it’s best to go to great lengths—literally.

Thanks to the birth of another fashion fad, the latest beauty buzz on the red carpets of Hollywood is now increasing profits in salons/ spas north of the border. “It’s a hot and new craze that has caught the eye of professional women, career women, housewives, soccer moms, brides and even some cancer survivors,” says Norma Albonoz, International Master Lash Artist for LASH beLONG in Los Angeles. “Semipermanent eyelash extensions can give you more money than you ever thought possible in just the blink of an eye.”

Celebrities like Nicole Kidman, Paris Hilton, Naomi Campbell and Jennifer Lopez have been batting their vibrant and luscious lashes in front of cameras all over the world. Now that the secret is out on how to achieve the same kind of glamorous, ultra-long but natural-looking lashes, Albonoz admits women are willing to pay for a little face candy. “If something improves your self-esteem and image, you are going to keep having it done.”

Like nail and hair extensions, the new eyelash movement is a repeat service. The cost of a full set of eyelashes done by a trained and certified professional can vary from $100.00 to $900.00. Albonoz, located in suburban L.A., charges $200.00 for a full set and $50.00 for a refill while other professional lash artists closer to downtown L.A. charge $600.00 to $800.00. Albonoz points out that in Manhattan, women don’t hesitate to shell out $900.00 for a full set.

Closer to home, Kharly Harkin, an esthetician who works at Maison du Parfum salon in

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Rockland, Quebec (north of Sherbrooke), charges $280.00 for a full set, and refills run $100.00.

In Edmonton, Myrna Douziech of Roses on Ice Salon in suburban St. Albert has a rate of $250.00 for a full set and $50.00 for refills.

At downtown Toronto’s Pretty In the City on King St., owner and trainer Veronica Tran has been doing eyelash extensions for four years.

She uses mink synthetic lashes on most of her clientele. “They’re soft and so natural-looking that there is no need to wear eye makeup.” A full set usually runs from $150.00 up to $250.00, depending on the number of lashes used. Refills cost approximately $80.00. While lawyers, real estate agents, doctors and stay-at-home moms travel into the city to get their pretty lashes, Tran also offers a mobile service that costs $200.00 per hour.

“Semi-permanent eyelash extensions are here to stay,” Tran adds. “They’re much more popular right now in the United States and Europe, but they’re going to become so big in Canada that they will be up there with pedicures and manicures.”

Albonoz stresses that the semi-permanent eyelash extension service needs to be treated like any spa service, “in a private room, on a proper massage bed, including special touches like candlelight and soft music.” It should also be noted that the full-set application takes some time—two to three hours. During the procedure, single synthetic lashes are dipped into a black or clear glue solution called cyanoacrylate adhesive. Then, one at a time, each lash is applied onto and between the existing natural eyelashes for a seamless appearance.

After a full set is applied, Albonoz tells clients to come back in two to four weeks. This allows her to fill in where the lashes have fallen. “Never allow your client to leave without booking a refill appointment,” says Albonoz. “You’ll lose

her loyalty because she’ll have to pay for a full set again if she doesn’t come back until six to eight weeks later.”

Clients need to be educated in order to maintain healthy eyelash extensions. Wear and tear is a concern due to rubbing and touching the eyelashes. Unfortunately, oily products break down the bond of the adhesive. A lesson is using the proper type of makeup and skin care, especially the right type of eye makeup remover, is a must.

While companies like LASH beLONG, Xtreme Lashes and Tran’s PrettyLashes sell kits containing individual eyelash extensions that can last up to six to eight weeks and even longer with refill appointments, there are other companies like Ardel and Lash-It that sell kits containing a cluster of eyelashes on a strip in different shapes, sizes and colours. This is more of a temporary, do-it-yourself extension of lashes that can only last up to three weeks.

As trainers, Albonoz and Tran can’t say enough about safety and sanitation during the procedure. At LASH beLONG’s classes, four hours are spent on eyelash growth theory and safety and the last few hours are devoted to the actual procedure. Albonoz says it can take time to learn the finesse of hand movement when using the tools to do the procedure. Tran points out that an esthetician needs to be trained by a professional like herself and warns never to rely on the kit’s “how-to” DVD. As women across the country are jumping on the eyelash bandwagon, so has Health Canada, alarmed by the use of cyanoacrylate adhesive in the eye area. Last spring, the governing body met with industry professionals to discuss new requirements for the sale and use of the adhesive. The document is available on the Cosmetics Program website at www. healthcanada.gc.ca/cosmetics. Clients’ health and safety demands that you be informed. S

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nails

Soak simple

Get a hand up Clients demand more from esthetic

OPI says goodbye to flaking polish

services

Tackling the timeless problem of chipping nail polish, OPI is introducing the Axxium Soak-Off Gel Lacquer system. Applied like nail lacquer—in 12 of OPI’s most popular shades—but featuring UV-cured, two-week-long results, Soak-Off Gel Lacquer is designed for clients who depend on resilient results for vacations, special events and the busy holiday season.

Although shorter natural nails will benefit most, the Soak-Off Gel system can be used over longer Axxium Gels. Even better for busy clients, removal time for the Soak-Off base, lacquer and sealer is less than 30 minutes.—AM

t’s not enough to prep, buff and paint a mani-pedi addict any more.

“Women want an experience where they can unwind, chat with their esthetician and even sip a drink, with the same results as a nail shop,” says Kristen Gale, owner of 10Spot Nail Bar in Toronto. Tony Cuccio, CEO of Cuccio Naturalé hand, foot and body products, shares the same idea, saying that clients are demanding more than just nail care. “A nail salon’s main function is to provide one service with no extra perks,” he explains. “Spas go beyond the nails and toenails and focus on the extremities.”

At 10Spot, a loud and lively nail bar where Sex and the City plays on TVs while guests sip cocktails, Gale and her staff do just that. “It’s not just about tea and a hot towel any more,” Gale explains. “It’s in the little things, like providing a complimentary toe wax during a pedicure so feet walk out absolutely flawless.”

So how do you straddle the line between shop and spa? Cuccio says the first task is to re-evaluate menu services. “Breaking up services is a good way to give clients options and meet the needs of a variety of people.” Next, he says, is switching to higher-end products, such as body butters for hand and arm massages. This also makes it easier to retail products to customers and creates an experience. “Offering highend retail products that aren't available in traditional stores shows a perceived value,” Cuccio says.

Gale adds that one of the easiest ways to boost perceived value— aside from comp toe waxes!—is getting estheticians interested in guests.

“When clients walk in to 10Spot, we introduce ourselves and shake their hand. We call them by name and take a personal interest in their hand and foot care regime,” she says. “There are also unexpected gestures, such as helping to pick a polish or asking if help is needed getting keys out if nails aren’t dry.”—AM

i

TRENDS: Pictured, left to right; from LCN Holiday Collection, Magnetic Field, Frosted Martini, Midnight Rendezvous; from OPI Holiday In Toyland Collection, A Ruby For Rudolph, Glamour Game, Brand New Skates.

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November - December 2008 Salon Promos

Sea Salt Retail Display Towers

New Pomegranate & Fig Daily Skin Polisher

NEW! Attention-grabbing Point-of-Purchase Displays include six retail-size (8 oz.)

Sea Salts.

Polished to Perfection

NEW!

Cuccio’s new Pomegranate & Fig Daily Skin Polisher is packed with rich sugar cane extracts and soft jojoba micro beads to softly remove dead skin cells.

The new finer, softer exfoliating formula is perfect for client at-home use.

Safe for use on a daily basis, this gentle formula leaves skin feeling fresh and invigorated with a glowing natural radiance.

Choose from two alluring scents: warm & invigorating Milk & Honey and revitalizing & anti-aging Pomegranate & Fig Milk & Honey Sea Salt Tower Pomegranate & Fig Sea Salt Tower

#3141 #3140

salon $65.70 salon $65.70

Cuticle Revitalizer Complex

Add this great new service for a true spa experience!

Special Introductory Pricing Pomegranate & Fig Daily Skin Polisher 8 oz.

Pomegranate & Fig Daily Skin Polisher 32 oz.

b a

Introducing 3 new Cuticle Revitalizer Complex flavours: Milk & Honey, Pomegranate & Fig and Tuscan Citrus Herb.

Purchase all 3 for the special introductory price of $14.95!

#3121 #3142

salon $7.95 salon $23.95

Body Butter Stocking Stuffers

Now you can enjoy all the nourishing & rejuvenating benefits of our popular Body Butter in a convenient 10cc tube.

Great for retail, promotions and holiday season stocking stuffers.

Cuticle Complex 3 Pack

#3128-Intro

salon $14.95

Salon: $59.95

Also available individually Milk & Honey Pomegranate & Fig Tuscan Citrus Herb

#3126 #3127 #3128

salon $6.95 salon $6.95 salon $6.95

Enhancing the Scentual Spa Experience

Now purchase the new 40 Tube Mixed Bucket featuring 10 tubes each of Milk & Honey, Tuscan Citrus Herb, Papaya & Guava and Pomegranate & Fig fragrances.

800.661.9997

780.465.2131

#3083-40

www.cuccio.com © 2008 Star Nail Canada

™ Property of 407245 Alberta Ltd.

THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

CONTESSA 20 finalists

Canadian Hairstylist

session Hairstylist

Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force Salon and Spa

Marty Boechler, Burke & Hair Inc.

Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa

John Donato, Donato Salon & Spa

Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel

John Graham, Vault Salon and Spa

Davide Fattor, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon

Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio

Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative

Tamy Michaud, Claudio Coiffure International Alain Pereque, Salon Pure

men’s Hairstylist

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co.

Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design

Silas Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa

Leblanc Johnston, Valentino’s Grande Salon

Lisa Watrich, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon

Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Jaye McLeod, Moods Hair Salon

Canadian salon team Blushes I Hair and Day Spa Capucci Salon & Spa La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon Moods Hair Salon Ricci Hair Co. Salon Inpure II Salon Pure Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Valentino’s Grande Salon Vault Salon and Spa elite master Hairstylist Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force Salon and Spa Johnny Cupello, J.C. Salons Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative Tamy Michaud, Claudio Coiffure International Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Jane Tecson, Vault Salon and Spa Heather Wenman, Studio H

Pascal Saab, The Artists by Johnny Cupello avant Garde Hairstylist Martin Alarie, Salon Pure Pamela Clough, Valentino’s Grande Salon Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design Mélissa Frezza, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Franco Della Grazia, Franco & Co makeup artist Julie Coulombe-Duke, Freelance Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve Giancarlo Intini, Ford Maggie Ng, Freelance Melanie Whitmore, Civello Salon & Spa texture Hairstylist Lino Patraccone, Salon Inpure II Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Silas Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa Lisa Watrich, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon multiCultural Hairstylist John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc

makeover Colourist

Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel

Adriana Balea, Francesca’s Salon & Spa

Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve

Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio

Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon and Spa

Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa

Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve

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Laura Girolametto, Salon I.D.

newComer Hairstylist

Rodica Hristu, De Berardinis Salon & Spa

Mikka Bitangcol, Ricci Hair Co.

Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

Aimee Cox, Moods Hair Salon

Russel Surujbally, Ego Salon & Spa

Amanda DiCarlo, Salon Inpure II

Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa

Danille Mandap, Vault Salon and Spa

Silas Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa

Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

november 2, 2008 Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel Cocktails 5:00 PM | Gala 7:00 PM Student/Apprentice HAirStyliSt Tanya Berger, Moods Hair Salon Marisa Dilisi, Xpression The Salon Julia Dyck, Vault Salon and Spa Sherlyn Sampang, Vault Salon and Spa Justin Teixeira, Marca College

BritiSH columBiA HAirStyliSt Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon Davide Fattor, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon Lisa Watrich, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon

QueBec HAirStyliSt Virginie Beauparlant, Continental Coiffure Valerie Meades, Salon Inpure II Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Dominik Vincent, Styl-Lib Coiffure Dennis Voltan, Salon Inpure

nAil Art tecHniciAn Angela Fuhrer, Impressions Hair Group Anita Jokic, Vault Salon and Spa Meranda Kokoski, Flawless Hair Design Leticia Oliveira, Salon Delor Jennifer Sparks, Yorkville School of Makeup & Esthetics

AlBertA HAirStyliSt Mikka Bitangcol, Ricci Hair Co. Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co. John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design Melissa Russell, Fuss Art of Hair

AtlAntic HAirStyliSt Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force Salon and Spa Alicia Langille, Concepts School of Cosmetology Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Chrissy Marr, Hair Artistic & Laser Clinic Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory

SASkAtcHewAn/mAnitoBA HAirStyliSt Mariana Canadas, Rituals in Hair and Skin Cynthia Chapil, Rituals in Hair and Skin Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon and Spa Danille Mandap, Vault Salon and Spa Reyn VonDyck, Elan Hair & Esthetics Salon

community Service Cavalier Hair Fashions La Coupe Montreal The Head Shoppe Studio H Zennkai Salon

ontArio HAirStyliSt Jenny Bell, J.C. Salons Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve George Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon

SAlon BuSineSS excellence * Salon You Inc. Valentino’s Grande Salon Zennkai Salon *(Only three finalists will be chosen for this category each year)

nAil enHAncement ArtiSt Anita Jokic, Vault Salon and Spa Jennifer Mather, Polished Nail Design Group Inc Susan Schafer, Day Dreams Esthetics Studio Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics Tammy Upthegrove, It’s All About Me Esthetics & Nail Care SAlon interior deSign Bob + Paige Salon Carreiro The Studio Hair Junkie by Fads Ku’r Salon and Spa Salon Delor

For ticket sales call 416.869.3131 ext. 108. Go to www.salon52.ca for more information

g o ld s pon so r s

s i lve r s pon s o r s

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PROFILE

The Winner

High stakes and huge egos – Anthony Crosfield wins reality TV’s Superstar Hair Challenge

t

...the secrecy aspect was quite serious. The very first day it was pizza in the penthouse with the legal team...

74

here is delicious irony in the fact that a self-described Luddite who, until this year, had never been online or sent an email and who doesn’t own a mobile phone, conquered in the most modern of realms: reality TV. And not just reality TV but a whiteknuckle, dog-eat-dog competition where the stakes were high and the egos huge.

Yet Vancouver-based hairstylist Anthony Crosfield bested 11 others to emerge victorious from the second season of the Slice Network’s Superstar Hair Challenge.

And he did so almost without breaking a sweat while keeping the dignity of the profession he loves intact.

Indeed, as the enormously affable Crosfield admits down the line from B.C., possibly the hardest part of the whole process—apart from having to learn what “blog” meant, then having to write one—was keeping mum about his win until the episodes, shot at the start of this year, finally aired on Slice in spring.

“I don’t know how criminals do it,

s a l o n > november+december 08

keeping those secrets,” Crosfield laughs.

“Ugh. But the secrecy aspect was quite serious. The very first day it was pizza in the penthouse with the legal team….

“I’ve been a competitive hairdresser since I began in the mid-’80s,” Crosfield continues. “But I was frustrated by how industry-based those competitions are.

You win and the only people who find out about it are other hairstylists. So I was intrigued by the idea of my work being exposed to the public.”

As if executing a series of complicated hairstyles in bizarre settings while wowing judges and avoiding elimination wasn’t hard enough, Crosfield also had to juggle the operation of his B.C.-based Mine:Stylesource salon while competing in Toronto.

In fact, it was a tech-savvy employee at the salon who convinced Crosfield to enter the Superstar Hair Challenge, having seen the first season and declaring him capable of “kicking ass.”

That employee, Crosfield says, then took care of the necessary paperwork while

shepherding the shoot of his audition tape. “I didn’t have an opportunity to say no,” he says.

The positive fall-out from the win has been swift and decisive. “It really gave me confidence based on the amount of skill I have,” Crosfield says. “Plus, there have been opportunities.

“I’ve just signed a deal with Wella to work as one of their educators, as part of their Trend Visionary team.

I’ll be doing a style spot on the local Global channel here in Vancouver. And, of course, I got exposure to a national audience, which was great because I hope to teach in the future.”

Any post-show gawking on the street by star-struck fans? Crosfield howls, “I am 6-foot-7 so people have always pointed at me in public. I did get bumped up to business class on a flight to London in July when a bunch of little girls recognized me and the flight attendant asked if I was famous.

“That was pretty cool.” S

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photos courtesy superstar hair challenge

By Kim Hughes

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CHECK IT ONLINE

n o v.+ d e c . ’08

who won?

C h e c k t h i s y e a r ’s C o n t e s s a w i n n e r s b y s u b s c r i b i n g t o t h e s a l o n 5 2 w e e k l y n e w s l e t t e r. online video eXcluSive

>S e e

all th e ac t i o n f ro m t h e

C on te s s a 20 g a l a

Special RepoRt: dealing with economic unceRtainty

complete collectionS: aveda

G ot t h e ecom on y o n y o u r mi n d ? G o to s a l o n 5 2 t h i s mo n t h t o ch eck o u t h o w y o u ca n s a fe gu a rd y o u r sa l o n ’s fina n c ia l w e ll- b e i n g .

Raw Beauty

paul mitchell Clocks

SaSSoon

Photo courtesy AVeDA

Chimera

event coveRage

> >

C on te s s a 20 Toron to F as h i o n F o c u s

COLLECTIONS > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES+PROFILES > JOBS > VIDEOS > CONTESSA w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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november+december 08 < s a l o n

75

INTERIORS

Urban Destination Medz Salon brings Zen to the city

By Tina Christopoulos

C

ousins Marie-Ève Medza and Sophie Perreault aimed to give their Verdun, Quebec, salon a calm and accessible atmosphere. “We wanted to create a space people would want to spend time in, a comfortable place where clients know everyone, not just their stylist,” explains Medza.

A true destination in a growing neighbourhood, Medz caters to a diverse clientele ranging from young families to young professionals. “We get a lot of exposure through word of mouth,” says Medza. “People come, and then send their mom or their sister.”

After doing an extensive market study, the stylist cousins saw Verdun’s potential—there wasn’t a salon like the one they were thinking about in that city. They then found the perfect space, a former Internet café, which they transformed into a salon with subtle Zen decor.

“It was an old thing,” recalls Medza. “We had to tear some walls down and rebuild. We did everything ourselves, with the help of our spouses and families.” The resulting space bears very calming neutral colors, with turquoise and green accents that can be changed each year to refresh the salon.

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A plant-decorated wall near the front window points to the owners’ ecoconsciousness. “We try to take the environment into account in everything,” explains Medza. “We recycle, we use energy-efficient light bulbs, everything is computerized, we use biodegradable cleaning products and offer fair trade coffee.”

Other details, like the brick wall and the unusual lamps in the reception area, give the salon a distinctive urban chic. “The salon embodies a very urban trend, but at the same time it’s very relaxed, very quiet,” explains Forme Design’s Catherine Borduas.

The team also greatly contributes to the client-friendly atmosphere. “We try to fulfill each person’s needs—as much the employees’ as the clients’,” explains Medza. “If, on a given day, things get difficult, we respect the other team members. We also try to spend time together outside the salon. Once every few months, we go out for lunch to speak about something other than hair.”

Ultimately, Medz Salon owes its success to the team’s passion for its work.

“Our heart guides us—we come to the salon because we love our clients and we love to welcome people.”

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Name:

Medz Salon

Address:

4434 Wellington, Verdun

Owners:

Marie-Ă&#x2C6;ve Medza, Sophie Perreault and Julie Fortin

Size: Breakdown:

1,400 sq. ft.

6 cutting stations, 6 technical stations, 3 sinks, 1 esthetics room

Number of staff:

7

Products:

Redken

Interior designer:

Catherine Borduas, Forme Design

Management Software: Merlin X2 from Ecosoft Forme Design

S

PHOTOS BRUNO DESJARDINS

Furniture:

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5

HOT PRODUCTS

hotpicks

By Anupa Mistry

4 2

5

3

Spray put Perfect for those alwayscoiffed individuals on the go, OSiS+ has compacted its best-selling Session Extreme Hold hairspray into a travel- or-purse-friendly format. Available in 100 mL and 300 mL sizes, the tiny silver can gives long-lasting and fast-drying hold minus the luggage bulk. And at the beach, its UV filters will shield hair from the sun. For more info, visit www.schwarzkopfprofessional.com.

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lift off Come winter, it’s not just skin that takes a hit. In one shot, Eufora Volume Fusion spray battles dryness caused by central heating and limpness from heavy toques.

Keratin and wheat amino acids heal and strengthen hair, but the key to Volume Fusion’s hydrating, volumizing action is certified organic aloe vera gel. It rejuvenates the scalp and encourages skin cell growth: the ultimate antihat-head tool. For more info, visit www.eufora.net.

s a l o n > november+december 08

Sweet Style Load up on sweetness minus calories and cavities with the z.one concept milk_shake hair care and styling range.

The Italian line features 14 products ranging from a conditioning foam that looks—and smells—like whipped cream to a yogurtinfused hair mask. Most of the line contains the namesake ingredient, hydrating milk protein, which helps strengthen and increase hair’s internal structure. For more info visit, www.z-one.it.

CrantaStiC! Make holiday scents part of a nail treatment with CND Scentsations Hand & Body Cranberry Wash. The sweetsmelling, rose-tinted liquid rinses away impurities and contains a moisturizing agent that leaves cleansed hands supple enough to combat winter dryness. Makes a perfect accompaniment to any holiday-themed spa treatment or a great holiday treat for clients to take home to friends and family. For more info, visit www.cnd.com.

lighten up An uneven complexion can add years to your age. To tackle hyperpigmentation, Dermalogica has developed ChromaWhite TRx, the skin industry’s first synergistic brightening system. The seven-product range includes day and night moisturizers and a brightening powder and works at every step of the skincare regime—exfoliation, toning, moisturizing—to keep discolouration in check.

For more info, visit www. dermalogica.com. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

photo chris tsintziras

1

COSMETIC TATTOOING TRAINING ACADEMY Earn between $400 to $500 per hour.

Pay from $129*per month to earn it. *(includes training & equipment, based on 60 month term OAC)

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events

NOvEMBER/DECEMBER 2008 20TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS

COSMOPROF ASIA

November 2, 2008

November 12—14, 2008

Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel,

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition

Toronto, ON

Centre, Hong Kong Info: www.cosmoprof.asia.com

Info: www.salon52.ca 416.869.3131 Ext.108 CONTESSA UNPLUGGED

November 3, 2008 The Berkeley Church

The beauty

of hair extensions Fusion extensions Double-loop extensions

Toronto, ON

TORONTO FASHION FOCUS November 16, 2008 Metro Toronto Convention Centre Toronto, ON Info: www.fashion-focus.net

Info: www.salon52.ca 416.869.3131 Ext.108 CANADIAN MAKEUP SHOW

November 8—9, 2008 Koolhaus, Toronto, ON Info: www.canadianmakeupshow.com ISPA CONFERENCE & EXPO November 10—13, 2008 The Venetian Resort Hotel Casino Las Vegas, NV Info: www.experienceispa.com

HAIRAPALOOZA SASKATOON November 16, 2008 ESP Salon Sales Saskatoon Info: 306.227-4357 2008 BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS November 24, 2008 Grosvenor House Hotel London, UK Info: www.britishhairdressingawards.co.uk

Clip-on extensions Machine-weft extensions

HAIR CLASSES AvEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

100% first grade human hair - remy hair guaranteed The most durable bond in the world - lasts 4-8 months Free Seminar for New Extension Techniques in Toronto

Fusion hair and double-loop hair extensions classes available.

GBB Hair Extension Manufactured and imported by Global Best Beauty Trading Ltd. One-Stop shopping for the best extensions, at the lowest price Tel: 416-636-1988 Fax: 416-636-1968 Toll free: 1-866-468-2205 www.globalbestbeauty.com 45 Brisbane Rd, Unit 5, Toronto, Ontario, M3J 2K1

Distributors always welcome across Canada & USA

80

s a l o n > november+december 08

CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.6607 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTy EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including trend zoom seminars; Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: www.greatlengths.net KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORéAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SCHWARZKOPF EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or

contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.6607 URBAN BEAUTy SySTEMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AvEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

See all class listings and full event coverage on www.salon52.ca. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

SCOOP

GoGreen

A Senator’s Grooming Woody’s Quality Grooming is supplying locker room products for the Ottawa Senators for a third consecutive year. The guys are reportedly fans of the Meat and Potatoes bar and the Foaming Shave Gel

Fabulous at 40 Michael Kluthe salon recently celebrated over 40 years of business. Located in midtown Toronto, the salon held its big birthday last month with friends, clients and employees past and present.

For more go to www.salon52.ca.

Happy Together Team Players With over 10 years of industry experience, Rowena Berry joined Schwarzkopf Professional in July 2008 as Eastern Ontario regional sales manager and SEAH national sales manager.

NP-GREEN Nano Silver Technology 1” Ceramic Plates Ceramic Heater Heats to 410 °F Dual Temperature Settings

82

1-800-267-4247 www.npgroup.ca

s a l o n > november+december 08

Congratulations to Woody Michleb and Amy-Louise Vidler, who tied the knot on Sept. 21 in an intimate ceremony in Toronto. Family and friends were on hand to share in the special occasion.

After five years on the SKP team, Kristie Quinn was recently promoted to Western Ontario regional sales manager and national education supervisor. S

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BEAUTY

nicholas french

USING 3ALON -AGAZINE

3UBSCRIBE

TO 3ALON -AGAZINE

to advertisers

by phone

on the web

â?? YEAR SUBSCRIPTION ISSUES TO ANYWHERE IN #ANADA '34 ).#,5$%$

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â?? 3AVE WITH COPIES OF EVERY ISSUE FOR YOU AND YOUR COLLEAGUES YEAR SUBSCRIPTION COPIES EACH OF ISSUES #!.!$)!. /2$%23 /.,9

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-534 "% 4/ 3!-% ,/#!4)/. '34 ).#,5$%$

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Action Bagâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;93 ...............................................866-675-3016 ........................ www.actionbag.com/salonmagazine

â?? YEAR 5 3 SUBSCRIPTION ISSUES 53$

American Crewâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;15........................................800-598-2739 ........................ www.americancrew.com

â?? 0LEASE NOTE MY CHANGE OF ADDRESS AND OR DETAILS BELOW FOR MY 3ALON -AGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION

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SIGNATURE ??????????????????????????????

Contessa 20â&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;87 .............................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca

DATE ?????????????????????????????????

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?????????????????????????????????????????????? #!2$ .5-"%2

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?????????????????????????????????????????????? %80)29 $!4%

Farouk Mini CHIâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;43 ......................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com

?????????????????????????????????????????????? #!2$(/,$%2 3 .!-%

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â?? -R â?? -S 'IVEN .AME S ????????????????????????????????????

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3URNAME ???????????????????????????????????????

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4ITLE ???????????????????????????????????????????

International Beauty Servicesâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;91.................800-642-3818

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!DDRESS ???????????????????????????3UITE ?????????

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#ITY #ITY ????????????????????

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Kaaral sense colourâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;35 ............................................................................... www.kaaral.com

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%MAIL ??????????????????????????????????????????

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7EBSITE ????????????????????????????????????????

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal Professionnelâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;2-3 ............................800-361-8017 ....................... www.lorealprofessionnel.ca

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3%#4)/. " (OW WOULD YOU CLASSIFY THIS LOCATION â?? 3ALON â?? 3PA â?? 3CHOOL â?? -ANUFACTURER â?? $ISTRIBUTOR â?? &RANCHISE â?? &REELANCE â?? (OME "ASED â?? /NE OF MULTIPLE LOCATIONS WITH THE SAME OWNER â?? /THER SPECIFY ??????????????????????

Lanvainâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;37 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN Colour Gelâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;22 .......................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca Matrix Biolageâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;9 ...........................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com MC Collegeâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;90 ............................................................................................. www.mccollegegroup.com Milano Softwareâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;18 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com Moroccanoilâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;25 .............................................888-700-1817 ........................ www.moroccanoil.com NAHA 2009â&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;83 ..............................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.probeauty.org/naha

OF %MPLOYEES ????

NP Group Flat Ironsâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;65 ................................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca

7HAT SERVICES ARE PROVIDED â?? (AIR #ARE â?? 3KIN #ARE â?? .AIL #ARE â?? (AIR 2EMOVAL â?? 3PA 4REATMENTS â?? 4ANNING â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????????

NP Group Greenâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;82 ......................................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca

7HAT DO YOU DO â?? #O OWNER â?? /WNER â?? -ANAGER â?? (AIRSTYLIST â?? .AIL 4ECHNICIAN â?? %LECTROLOGIST â?? #OLOURIST â?? %STHETICIAN â?? ,ASER 4ECHNICIAN â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????????

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OPI Holiday 2008â&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;11 ....................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Pointâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;90 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca Redken Heat Styling Collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;13 ..............866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon52â&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;75....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf ClubSKPâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;12 ............................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Shark Fin Shearsâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;88 ....................................888-544-7254 ........................ www.sharkfinshears.com Star Nailâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;89 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio NaturalĂŠâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;71 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.cuccio.com Takara Belmontâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;67.......................................800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca

&!8 &/2- 4/

TIGI Bedheadâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;39 ...........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com

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TIGI Catwalkâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;23 ...........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com

OR SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT WWW SALON CA

Viso Trading Mukâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;59.....................................888-438-9257 ........................ www.muk-hair.com

s a l o n > november+december 08

Ultra Skin Careâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;86........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com

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P R E S S PA S S

MiSSion MinnEAPoliS More than 4,800 beauty professionals from around the world gathered at the 2008 Aveda Congress in Minneapolis this past September. The two-day event was a platform for education, inspiration and celebration of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 30 years of environmental and sustainable beauty practices.

Stage presentations featured 15 guest artist teams from six different countries, including Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own team led by Ray Civello, who put on a spectacular show entitled Made In Canada.

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L’ORéAL FALL PREviEw L’Oréal Professionnel showed off its offerings for fall 2008 at Toronto’s L’Oréal Academy. Featuring stage work by Heather Wenman and Daniel Fiorio, the night’s itinerary revolved around LP’s new colour collection, Thriller, and its latest luxe product range, Texture Expert.

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CELEBRATING TWO

DECADES

OF

BEAUTY

CONTESSA gala noV. 2 nd 2008 Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel THE

CANADIAN

HAIRSTYLIST

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FARouk IntERnAtIonAl ConFEREnCE Peace and love were in the air as guests from over 100 countries around the world gathered in Cancun, Mexico, for Faroukâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 16th international conference. The over 5,000 attendees took in presentations by artistic teams from North America, Latin America, Europe, the Middle East and Australia. The conference also highlighted the unifying power of our industry and Faroukâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Made in the USA manufacturing initiative.

These new shears come with our patented Sharkfin handle as well as our patented scissor-fitting system to custom fit your thumb and ring finger size for more control. This revolutionary technology also can reduce and even eliminate carpal tunnel syndrome and other health-related problems caused by improperly fitted shears. Forged from the highest quality 440 Japanese Hitachi steel for smooth cuts and sharp convex edges s %XTREMELY HIGH QUALITY SHEARS AT A GREAT PRICE s DAY MONEY BACK GUARANTEE AND UNCONDITIONAL lifetime warranty s !VAILABLE IN v v v AND v s &ULL LINE OF LEFT HAND SHEARS

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Belle Vacances La Biosthetique treated clients, distributors and the media to a tour of France and Germany, from September 13 to 20 to check out its offices, labs and salons in Paris, Pforzheim and Stuttgart. Soon after arriving, guests were sipping champagne and mingling with executives from the family-owned business, including Francine Contier, the wife of departed founder Marcel Contier, at a VIP gala. The trip also included a visit to La Biosthetiqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new headquarters situated across from the famed Arc de Triomphe, demonstrations of the fall 2008 Digital Bohemenian trend and three days of training.

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SebaStian’S Grand reveal In mid-September, Sebastian Professional’s big makeover was unveiled to a crowd of about 500 salon and industry insiders at Muzik nightclub in Toronto.

The Sebastian team put on a high-energy, music-packed event showcasing the company’s up-and-coming talent and latest hero products. Part of a three-city Canadian tour, the show was also presented in Vancouver and Montreal.

Sebastian also presented the re-launched products and brand philosophy to the Salon Distribution Group on August 24 at Your Space Academy in Markham, Ontario. Over 100 stylists attended the presentation as principal Tony Conforti and his team welcomed everyone, including Sebastian Professional associate director David Dias and creative director Fabio Sementilli, who orchestrated the launch presentation.

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s a l o n > november+december 08

Marvel Yorkville School of Esthetics, headed up by new managing director Margot Keith, officially re-opened its door after a spectacular makeover on Sept. 6. Under transformation for about one year, the updated school features new pedicure stations, beds, manicure tables, a private waxing room and a bright makeup area. Keith says that this change in interior also reflects a re-branding.

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Photos Diego Mora

MARvElâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GRAnd RE-OPEninG

BRANCH OUT

Colour MosaiC Up-and-coming distributor Canadian Beauty Support officially launched Chromastics Hair Color and Retail Line on September 7 at Alley Katz Nightclub in Toronto. CBS is the exclusive distributor of the line in Ontario, and Chromastics creator Tom Dispenza was on hand to celebrate the launch and to preview interpretations of the lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2009 trends. All proceeds from the event, dubbed Mosaic in a nod to Canadian diversity, were directed to the Heart and Stroke Foundation.

Help Plant Our Urban Forests Trees do their part. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s do ours.

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november+december 08< s a l o n

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On Sept. 22 Belvedere Company Canada Inc. held the grand opening of their new showroom in Mississauga, Ontario. Co-owner and C.O.O Horst Ackermann along with fellow co-owner and president Barry Sanders were on hand to welcome attendees.

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by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 17 Issue 15 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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97

21:

LAST WORD

Hair Looms Large John Steinberg discovers the fate of dead hair—literally

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gift” of a collection of strands cut from the original locks of the 31 historical persons in his collection, which includes rock stars, presidents, murderers and Mother Teresa.

Hair from living celebrities doesn’t seem to do so well. When Britney Spears walked into Esther’s Haircutting Studio in Tarzana, CA last year, saying she wanted to shave her head, the salon owner waived her normal $20 cut fee. But then she put Spears’s hair up for online auction—for $1 million. Nobody bought it.

And Neil Armstrong (the first astronaut to walk on the moon) threatened to sue the collector who paid his barber US$3,000 to get some of his hair.

Hair given with consent is another thing. Queen Victoria gave pieces of jewellery made from her hair as gifts to her children and grandchildren. And Napoleon wore a watch fob with a chain made from the hair of his second wife, Empress Marie Louise.

In fact, in the days before photography, a lock of hair made the ideal keepsake to strengthen sentimental bonds. In the 1600s both men and women gave hair bracelets as love tokens. Sometime around the 1750s until the end of the 1800s it was fashionable to wear large deep-blue rings with white borders framed with pearls that held a loved one’s hair. And in the late 1800s and early 1900s, lovers glued locks of their hair onto specially made postcards and valentines to send to their beloved.

In these same days of yore, people often put aside money in their will to have pieces of jewellery made from their hair for the mourners at their funeral.

It all seems quite hairifying to me. S John Steinberg is at John Steinberg and Associates in Toronto. He is currently celebrating 49 years in the beauty business. Check out www.johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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JUPITERIMAGES

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hat would you think if a client said after a haircut, “Don’t sweep my hair away. We could save it and sell it.”

A good friend and regular client of mine says this quite often, usually to wind up a new assistant. And I confess I’ve occasionally said the same thing myself to tease a newbie still unfamiliar with my strange sense of humour. (After all, if you can’t have a good laugh at least once a day, what’s it all about?) So imagine my surprise in coming across a New York Times article about the multimillion-dollar industry of… hair collecting.

Not just anyone’s hair, of course. We’re talking about famous, usually deceased, people. The professional collector featured in the Times article owns hair taken from Abraham Lincoln on his deathbed. It’s worth half a million dollars. And just how weird is this pastime? (Warning: don’t read this next bit if you have a queasy tummy.) Lincoln’s tufts of black hair come complete with dried-up bits of his brain stuck to them.

This collector’s success with stamps, autographs and Americana brings him a cool $10 million per year, so it shouldn’t be a big surprise that he owns superhi-tech equipment like a video spectral comparator to help check documents that support the veracity of his hair collection. And to give you an idea of just how much money there is in this follicle-chasing lark, selling celebrity hair to other dealers pretty much covers his 10 employees’ salaries.

And apparently, in addition to respectable auction houses like Sotheby’s and Christie’s, thousands of seemingly ordinary people pursue this gruesome hobby.

Last year, a collector paid US$119,500 for a lock of Che Guevara’s hair. Babe Ruth’s went for a mere US$38,000 and John Lennon’s for US$48,000.

You can even buy the stuff on eBay. I checked. Should you be so inclined, you can get six half-inch hairs from former US president Dwight D. Eisenhower for US$1,500. For a mere US$10,000, the same dealer offers the “spectacular

presents

CONTESSA

Unplugged Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s talk about

C r e vity Vivienne Mackinder Damien Carney Edwin Johnston m O N D AY N O V E m B E R 3 , 2 0 0 8 11a.m.

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