Salon Magazine, November/December 2009

l salon MAGAZINE

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the

international ISSUE

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november+december 09 $5 salon52.ca

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NEW STRAIGHT COLLECTION

for fine, medium & coarse hair

AMAZING STRAIGHTNESS AS SEEN AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

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Gtheive Gift your Professional Life of Great Lengths®

just in time for Holiday Services The holiday season offers salon professionals a unique opportunity to provide enhanced and creative services for special event styles and fashion. There is still time to sign up for a Great Lengths® certification seminar and add Great Lengths® to your service offerings. Don’t wait another day to make the decision that will change your professional life and take your career to the next level!

• Great Lengths® sets the standard in hair quality, education and support • Great Lengths® is the industry leader in hair enhancement and extension technologies • Great Lengths® services offered by certified artists, are consistently in demand • Great Lengths® attracts and retains clientele • Great Lengths® services are highly profitable • Great Lengths® presents infinite creative styling possibilities Interested in joining the Great Lengths® artistic network? Perhaps you’re already a certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist and wish to upgrade your service offerings with the technically advanced cold fusion method.

For detailed information, call today and speak to a Great Lengths® expert service consultant.

Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS There’s still time to become certified before your clients book their Holiday Services!

TORONTO

November 15–16 December 6–7

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*In-house seminars available by special arrangement.

Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths®Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

greatlengthscanada.com

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trend vision Wella celebr ates C an ad i an tal e n t

Wella’s Hi Definition Show at Toronto’s Muzik nightclub on September 28 hosted one of this year’s hottest hair competitions: the National Trend Vision Award 09. With ten finalists from across the country vying for bragging rights and the opportunity to compete at the International Trend Vision Award in Berlin, Germany, this year’s competition also introduced a new component: two Stylists’ Choice awards voted on by the beauty pros who attended the show.

Stylist Choice Award winner Daniel Losco and model

National trend vision award winner Eryn Wall (far right) with makeup artist Leslie Galway and model (centre)

YOUNG TALENT CATEGORY Third-time finalist and first-time winner, Eryn Wall, from St. John’s Newfoundland’s The Head Room, was awarded top honours in the Young Talent category and will be representing Canada on November 1 in Berlin. Fuelled by her competitive nature and commitment to her craft, Wall’s winning look was inspired by Wella’s 2009 Virtual Life trend.

Also inspired by Wella’s Virtual Life imagery, Daniel Losco of Mane Society in Thornhill, Ontario, claimed the new Stylists’ Choice award in the Young Talent category.

To create her winning look, Eryn Wall used Wella Professionals Color Touch 0/68 & 0/88, Koleston Perfect 0/65 and 10/1 and Blondor Lightening Powder.

Eryn Wall preps backstage

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n

COLOR CATEGORY Back-to-back National Trend Vision winner Antonio Quintieri of O’Session Hair Group in Woodbridge, Ontario, took first place in the Color Category. Eager to make his second appearance at the International Trend Vision competition, Quintieri was motivated by his experience at last year’s competition and the global element of this event. Wella’s Utopia trend served as the inspiration behind Quintieri’s final look.

Sandro Zamparini from Pop Hair in Toronto won the hearts of the stylists in the Stylist Choice Color Category with his fiery interpretation of the trend Virtual Life.

Quintieri’s model was prepped using Wella Professionals Blondor Lightening Powder, Color Touch 10/6 and Koleston Perfect 0/65.

Antonio Quintieri preps backstage

(L-R) Fabio Sementilli, creative director of Wella Canada, Stylist Choice Award winner Sandro Zamparini and model, and Renee Frechette, Capability Training Manager

Backstage madness!

Destination: Trend Vision International Berlin, Germany November 1, 2009

award 09

National trend vision award winner Antonio Quintieri with Jerry Aruta and model

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For information on how to enter trend vision award 2010 call 1-800-267-1962.

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68 Canada's Take on Colour

l salon

NOV+DEC.09 TO THE WORLD

See where this industry can take you!

48

THE HAIR DOWN UNDER

50

GLOBAL GOODS

52

12

Planning a trip? Try Australia, the beauty world’s emerging powerhouse

Ingredients from around the globe boost beauty business

BLONDE AMBITION

54

DESIGN EXCHANGE

Star Nail’s Elaine Watson takes you on a tour of nail trends from around the world

56

NETHERLANDS ACADEMIA

58

GLOBETROTTER

60

the business of beauty and style

Joico opens an expansive new training facility in Eindhoven, Netherlands

Session master Eugene Souleiman takes a quick break between flights to tell us all about his jetsetting lifestyle

INTERNATIONAL HAIR COLLECTIONS

Looks from all over the world—Japan, Britain, Italy and more

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

33 SPECIAL INTERNATIONAL SECTION 33 THE HAIRSTYLIST’S GUIDE

MAGAZINE

the international ISSUE november+december 09 $5 salon52.ca

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10/8/09 3:13:22 PM

Hair: Frank Apostolopoulos, creative director, Biba Salon, Fitzroy, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew O’Toole For a full technical breakdown check out salon52.ca.

Inspired by pop stars and celebrities in China, Korea and Japan, Asian men and women are going golden

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SHELF LIFE Six new products your clients will love

48 The Hair Down Under

FEATURES 72 O CANADA!

p.24; Tigi’s new ravishing red shades p.25; Canada welcomes Rowenta Beauty tools p.25; Irina Lazareanu gets a totally new look p.25; how to keep your salon safe during the

Cross-country coverage of Redken’s “Summer with Heart” Campaign

82

90 YEARS YOUNG

84

CROSS COUNTRY

86

THEN AND NOW

88

22

Hairlines: Stage Presence

A year after going direct in all but one Canadian region, KPSS recounts the philosophy behind its big move

A look back at Coupe Bizzarre from conception to present

74 76 78

CONTESSA FINALISTS

This month online!

Redken introduces new wet and styling products for voluminous manes p.24; salonfixer.com offers business tips p.24;

Valerie Meades talks about Inpure’s C20 Salon Team of the Year collection

NAILS The latest in nail news

MEN Although they may not always be the most to their barber

80

ESTHETICS Clearing up the difference between laser and IPL treatments

89 90

SCOOP EVENTS Coverage of Hairapalooza Edmonton, L'Oréal Professionnel’s Fall Preview and more

HAIRLINES Wella’s High-Definition Tour and the Trend Vision 09 finale p.22;

CONTESSA GALLERY

loyal of creatures, men are likely to stay true

We eagerly bring you this year’s finalists!

REGULARS 16 EDITOR’S LETTER 18 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 20 SALON52.CA 22

second surge of H1N1 p.26; Shelf Life has six new products your clients will love p.28

Wahl marks a milestone anniversary

98

LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

Mega Hot Professional Series hits Canada

14

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salon52.ca

10/14/09 4:40:25 PM

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Comet Loves Cupid, Dear Santa, Glove You So Much!, Smitten with Mittens, Meet & Jingle, Crimson Carol

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Ginger Bells!, Shim-merry Chic, All A-Bordeaux the Sled!, Holiday Glow, Sapphire in the Snow, Merry Midnight

OPI HOLIDAY WISHES NAIL LACQUERS 12 shades exclusively for Holiday 09, including six brilliant reds and six sultry darks & neutrals

Nail Lacquers feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE

Try it on at opi.com Call 800.341.9999 ©2009 OPI Products Inc.

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Model is wearing Shim-merry Chic with Holiday Glow on tips.

10/13/09 2:07:54 PM

EDITOR’S LETTER

P

SALON LOYALTY PROGRAM

Are YOU collecting points?

Enroll online and receive a free gift. promo code > salon magazine

salon merchandise salon tools salon accessories salon education Visit www.clubSKP.com or ask your Sales Consultant or Technical Advisor for details.

PHOTO BABAK

www.clubskp.com 1.800.463.3081

Travel Exchange

W

e may hate the packing, the airport lineups and all that waiting, but most of us love a good trip. However, being in an industry where major international shows come around every few months, many of the trips we take are often work-related.

Fortunately, hair and beauty pros know how to have a good time. Believe it or not, the majority of you have that good old work-hard, play-hard attitude, making even the most standard of business trips a fun, eye-opening and colourful experience.

So, for this, Salon Magazine’s first International Issue in six years, we’ve decided to focus on what Canadians learn, see and experience when they work abroad. Check out some of our favourite hairtravel stories on page 33, in The Hairstylist’s Guide to the World.

The Hairstylist’s Guide to Next, we explore the hair industry’s latest the World, page 33 international sweet spot: Australia. From bringing beach hair to city-centres worldwide to launching buzz-worthy professional lines, the Aussies are making waves. Turn to The Hair Down Under (page 48) for the full the story.

Finally, we couldn’t assemble an International Issue without a look at the latest hair collections from around the world. Go to page 60 to see what your global counterparts are doing this season. And as always, you can get expanded collection coverage online at salon52.ca. Be sure to sign up for our e-newsletter for weekly style and industry news.

Feel free to email me anytime at morella@beautynet.com.

Bend it like Britain, page 64

Morella Aguirre Editor-in-Chief

Together. A passion for hair 16

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salon52.ca

10/6/09 3:11:33 PM 10/14/09 5:30:21 PM

Designed by KMS California © KMS Global Marketing LLC 2009 www.kmscalifornia.com

ONE CUT VERSATILE STYLES Give your clients the freedom of style, self-expression, and the right to create without limits. Our exclusive KMS California products help you create individual looks… glamorous, hip, casual, whatever the mood.

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 18 issue 15

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com GROUP ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com INTERIM ART ASSISTANT

Cindy Ip > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | cindy@beautynet.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com ASSISTANT EDITOR

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

L

Carla Gillis

Jetsetters

Jef Catapang, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras PUBLISHER/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com DIRECTOR OF SALES & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com

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SALES ASSOCIATE

Lindsay Newton > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | lindsay@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca FINANCE

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com CHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50USd ADDRE SS CH A N GE S Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

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Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada SAL ON M A GAZ IN E

365 Bloor St. e. Suite 1902 toronto, oN M4w 3l4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

National Magazine Awards

Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

Laura Dunphy Publisher s a l o n > november+december 09

Pam Fulford

CONTRIBUTORS

ast year, while at Salon International in London, I couldn’t believe that within a 20-minute span we ran into four Canadian hairstylists on the show floor: Edwin Johnston from BC, Cindy Hudson from Newfoundland, and John Steinberg and John Donato from Toronto. We were all so far from home yet, like magnets, we found each other! Later, on the teeming streets of London, we also ran into Daniel Benoît and his wife.

The list of Canadians we see abroad goes on and on. What these jetsetters have in common is a real thirst for inspiration: they want to get out, see it and feel it. And there’s no better way to get inspired than to leave your own comfort zone behind and wander in a far-off city or countryside. We certainly know from the many interviews we’ve done with Contessa winners that inspiration is found through visiting other cities.

Whether you’re coming from White Rock, BC, or Timmins, ON, travelling and exploring can put you on the same creative playing field as big-city folk.

One of my favourite things to do is sit at a café and people-watch. Not only is it soothing for the soul, it’s a fun way to check out style, hair and colour. In London, we often try and hit one of the famous street markets where the scene is hip and eclectic. Designers, as well, often say they go to the street for inspiration.

In Canada, a lot of cultural diversity stems from an international influence. Personally, my family in Newfoundland developed a love for Indian culture due to Indian dentists immigrating to our small town. This is just one example of a culture that has had a major influence on fashion and beauty in recent years.

If you can’t get on a plane, no problem! Pull up a comfy chair and start your travels by surfing the Internet. Or, keep flipping through the pages of this issue—the International Issue—which returns after six years. Because it doesn’t matter how you get inspiration, as long as you get it!

18

SENIOR STAFF WRITER

GOLD

SILVER

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

TOP FIVE

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclable p

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C a N a d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon52.ca

10/15/09 3:58:55 PM

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november+december 09

salon52.ca what’s on

HAIR: FRANCIS L. RHOD PHOTO: JULES EGGER

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

collections

straight to your inbox!

> L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL - R enc o n t re

See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter!

Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

> FRAMESI - Energy > ANTOINETTE BEENDERS - Po wer Gir l > CHERYL GUSHUE - Kaleidoscope > KOHSUKE VISUAL NETWORK - Libe r a t in g of Hai r

s52 blog

s52 videos

Check out salon52.ca/blog, which features guest bloggers Fabio Sementilli and Babak, for hair gossip, celebrity style, photos and the lowdown on salon politics.

Missed the action? Watch our video coverage of Contessa 21, including stage presentations, winning speeches and behind-the-scenes antics, at salon52.ca/videos.

20

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s52 giveaways Warm up your winter!

Win one of five Mega Hot Professional Series prize packs!

Go to salon52.ca/giveaways to enter for a chance to win this tool trio from Belson Products, valued at $205.

Each prize includes one Ultra-Light Hair Dryer with Tourmaline, one 1” AccuSilver LCD Straightening Iron with Tourmaline and one 1” Ceramic Spring Curling Iron.

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HAIRLINES

news

Wella’s Hi-Definition Tour ends in Toronto with multiple stage presentations and the Trend Vision 09 finale

22

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he last stop on Wella’s cross-country Hi-Definition Tour was Toronto’s Muzik Nightclub on Sept. 28. Crowds surrounded the main stage to watch Sebastian’s artistic team—Daniel DiTomasso, Jason Fournier, Gianpaolo Columbo, Luka Conforti and Zak Ferguson, present the latest Re-mix collection, which featured lots of volume paired with edgy cuts. After, the Sassoon team took the stage, showing the ultra-geometric Le Baiser collection.

The loudest cheers came for salon teams from Toronto’s Coupe Bizzarre Hairdressing Images Salon & Spa, and Ottawa’s Texture Hair Salon. Each presented their take on a trend from Wella’s seasonal Intersexion collection.

Toronto also hosted the Trend Vision 09 finale. Teams from across Canada presented their finalist looks—five in both the Colour and Young Talent categories. Two winners, who will represent Canada at the world Trend Vision Awards in Berlin, were announced. Eryn Wall of the Head Room in St. John’s, NL, won Young Talent and Woodbridge, ON’s Antonio Quintieri of O’Session Hair Group took the top prize in Colour. This year was the first time a Stylist’s Choice Award was also given out. Audience members voted Sandro Zamparini from Pop Hair in Toronto as their choice in the Colour category while Daniel Losco from Mane Society in Thornhill, ON, took Young Talent.

Photos michael taylor

Stage Presence T

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8/18/09 7:20:17 4:42:32 PM PM 8/31/09

HAIRLINES

tool of the month

news

Bodylicious

Redken introduces new wet and styling products to create voluptuous manes

T

he holiday season is upon us, and so is the demand for party-ready looks. Taking a cue from the fall runway trends of bodacious locks, Redken brings you three new products from its Volume Collection to help you create gorgeous, full-bodied hairstyles.

Redken’s new patented Aerate 08 cream-mousse fuses the volumizing benefits of a mousse with the conditioning properties of a cream to provide body and keep hair shiny and soft. The Rootful 06 root-lifting spray targets the roots for volume on demand while the Layer Lift 07 length-elevating spray-gel gives layered cuts body and movement at the ends.

That’s not all. Redken has also introduced new products to its Body Full line to help clients maintain at home. The Body Full shampoo, conditioner, volumizing foam and thickening lift spray plump, strengthen and support each strand for double the volume.

To the Rescue!

A salon and career management tool launches online

NAME Mega Hot Professional Series Ultra-Light Hair Dryer with Tourmaline WEBSITE belsonproducts.com

FEATURES: Ultra light, weighing only 10.23 oz. • Two speeds and three heat settings for versatility • Removable air-intake grill for easy cleaning • 9 ft. cord complete with hanging ring for simple storage

NAME Mega Hot Professional Series 1” AccuSilver LCD Straightening Iron with Tourmaline WEBSITE belsonproducts.com

FEATURES: 1 in. tourmaline-infused ceramic heating plates • AccuSilver prevents bacterial growth • Temperature settings from 200˚ to 450˚ • Complete with handle lock and finger rests

a

new subscription-based website called salonfixer.com offers stylists, salon managers and owners businessbuilding tips through weekly videos from salons around

the world.

Cory Couts, salon management expert and creator of salonfixer.com, has partnered with creative agency Reza & Company to mastermind this online initiative. Couts explains that a monthly subscription equals the cost of one salon service, which means if the website helps stylists attract new business, the program literally pays for itself.

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NAME Mega Hot Professional Series 1” Ceramic Spring Curling Iron WEBSITE belsonproducts.com

FEATURES: Rubberized comfort grip handle and safety tip for two handed styling • Clamp and release lever makes for easy curling • Safety stand supports the barrel

WIN IT! Enter for a chance to win all three tools on salon52.ca. Giveaway runs Nov. 6 to 19, 2009.

salon52.ca

10/14/09 4:42:28 PM

HAIRLINES

news

Full Steam Ahead

Ravishing Reds

Tigi Colour introduces four new racy red shades

A

pproximately one to two per cent of the human population has naturally red hair, making it the most rare natural hair colour on earth. Consequently, this also makes red a high-demand colour at the salon. Fulfilling the needs of your wannabe-fiery clients, Tigi introduces four new red and copper shades to their permanent colour line— light coppery blonde, true coppery blonde, light reddish blonde, light reddish brown. Go on…unleash the inner redhead in your clients.

salon52.ca

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PHOTOS COurTeSY TIGI

Famous for steam machines, europe-based brand rowenta sets its sights on the beauty industry with a new line of innovative tools driven to achieve runway results every time. With the North American launch of the Infini Pro Hair Dryer, Supremium Flat Iron and Straight N’ Curl, this brand has also locked down top spot as the exclusive tool of fashion weeks across Canada.

Short Cut

Irina Lazareanu hits runways around the globe with a totally new look French-Canadian supermodel Irina Lazareanu visited Louis Hechter’s Orbite Salon in Montreal on Aug. 31 looking for a total transformation.

After lengthy discussions between the model, her agent and Hechter, the concept was decided: a 60s-style short, layered crop. “We decided to make it feathery, natural and soft,” explains Hechter. When Lazareanu hit the runway for New York Fashion Week from Sept. 10 to 17, the media immediately took note, with blogs raving about her new look.

november+december 09 < s a l o n

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HAIRLINES

business

OUTBREAK FEVER

A

s the season shifts and clients head to your salon for their holiday look, it’s time to get ready for an unwelcome resurgence: swine flu. Although the H1N1 virus has nothing to do with beauty trends, it has consequences for your customers’ health as well as for your salon’s business flow.

Even with a vaccination rollout forthcoming, it’s critical for salons to revisit and re-evaluate their hygiene protocols and business strategies. In other words, a re-emergence of H1N1 also means a renewed focus on cleanliness and friendliness.

The H1N1 virus spreads mainly through coughing or sneezing and sometimes through touching an infected surface and then touching your nose or mouth. As such, one of the easiest and most effective measures salons can take is urging employees to stay home when feeling ill. “We’ve got more staff staying home sick,” says Mario Arghittu of Picassos Salon and Spa in Ontario. “It’s not good for our business, but we prefer that they stay home because it can affect too many people down the line.”

Cancelled appointments should be approached with care. Arghittu says to respect a customer’s valuable time by recommending another of your stylists or by aiming to rebook

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within an acceptable timeframe. Second, Arghittu suggests offering a little something extra to show you appreciate your customer’s patience and understanding. “We usually give clients a gift for having to go to someone who is not their stylist, or for having to rebook. We always try to take care of them,” he says.

Dealing with an under-the-weather client can be a harder challenge. “It’s a gutsy call for a salon to send a customer home or to isolate them,” Arghittu says. “You might as well say goodbye to that client.” Instead, he recommends businessas-usual with a focus on before-and-after hygiene, maintaining cleanliness of instruments and disinfecting frequently touched surfaces such as doors and chairs.

John VanDyke, vice president of professional and technical services at Virox Technologies Inc., a manufacturer of hospital-grade cleaning agents, warns that some surface disinfectants may be effective against bacteria but not against viruses such as H1N1. Virox develops accelerated hydrogen peroxide (AHP) surface disinfectant technology, which the Ontario Ministry of Health selected as the disinfectant of choice during 2003’s SARS outbreak.

AHP is a “general virucide,” which means it

has a high efficacy against all types of viruses.

“You need to look beyond just H1N1 virus,” VanDyke says, which means searching out products like Virox’s that are not only widely and highly effective but also safe to use indoors. The Accel line of AHP products features wipes, gels, surface cleaners and washes made specifically for the beauty industry and medical labs.

The Public Health Agency of Canada stresses the importance of simple hygiene practices such as sneezing into your arm instead of your hand, staying home if you are sick until symptoms are gone, keeping common surfaces disinfected and frequently washing your hands.

VanDyke agrees that when it comes to protecting your salon against H1N1, the simplest measures are the most effective. “The most important precaution is washing your hands,” he says. “Frequent hand washing will effectively get rid of any H1N1 that might be on you and prevent it from transferring onto a surface. This is the most important part of the infection-control agent.”

For more tips and information, log on to publichealth.gc.ca.

PHOTO juPiTerimages TeXT jeF CaTaPaNg

How to keep your salon both calm and clean when H1N1 hits

salon52.ca

10/14/09 5:34:08 PM

free yourself from harmful chemicals Onesta means honesty.

It’s our name and our promise.

Onesta products are free of:

Parabens

(preservative linked to breast cancer)

Sulfates

(harsh detergents found in garage-floor cleaners and engine degreasers)

Propylene glycol (used in industrial antifreeze)

Synthetic colors and dyes (potent carcinogens derived from coal tar)

DEA and TEA

(ammonia compounds that can cause allergic reactions)

No animal ingredients or animal testing (Onesta is a PETA approved, cruelty-free and vegan company)

crueltyfree andvegan

Our exclusive blend of Omega 3 & 6 Essential Fatty Acids replenishes hair’s natural emollients: nourishing the root, strengthening the core, and protecting the surface. Experience healthier, shinier hair while Living Onesta Green.

Onesta uses 100% Post Consumer Recycled (PCR) packaging to manufacture its shampoos and conditioners. We will save over 100,000 pounds of virgin plastic from going into the landfills every year! 100% of our energy consumption is offset by wind power.

Onesta uses certified organic botanical extracts to support sustainable farming.

Onesta donates to cancer research 365 days a year, always giving 10% of our net income to finding a cure.

Contact us to learn more about becoming an Onesta Certified Green Salon and our commitment to sustainable living.

877-542-5300 • www.onestahaircare.com

“Onesta is the greenest and the cleanest.”

Onesta is distributed exclusively through: Kingdom Beauty Supplies, Ltd. in British Columbia (604) 251-7386 • Zen Beauty Supply in Winnipeg (204) 784-2989 Professional Salon Services in Alberta and Saskatoon (306) 384-8488 • Alternative Beauty Services in Ontario (905) 670-0611

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HAIRLINES

shelf life

Six new products your clients will love

1

colour crave Time to put away summer’s pale pinks and get seasonal with LCN’s fall/winter colour collection. From bright raspberry Mon Cheri to forest green Déjà-Vu to purple Ooh La La, this range has got you covered.

Info: lcn.ca

2

systematic styling Logics introduces three new stylers to their Color DNA System line. The gloss balm reduces frizz, the contouring paste ups texture and the geometric design gel provides added shine and thermal protection.

Info: logicshair.com

3

1 4

5 2

3

6

merry manis During the busy season, offer clients who want festive mani or pedi options OPI’s 12 limitededition holiday polishes.

With a range of colours from vibrant reds to sparkling purples, there’s something for everyone.

Info: opi.com

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mystery lady La Biosthetique launches a new makeup line, which includes a range of liners, shadows, lipsticks and glosses. Appropriately named Mystic Mood, the line’s palette is alluring greens, deep violets and rich browns.

Info: labiosthetique.com

out shine ’Tis the season for things that sparkle, and Tooth Fairy is offering fun iron-on fabric transfers made with real Swarovski crystals. Bedazzle your staff uniform for the holidays!

Info: toothfairy.ch S

www • For more of the latest products check out salon52.ca

Photo Chris tsintziras text Melissa brazier

4

silky smooth S-Factor’s new overnight treatment and a feather-light styler are ideal for clients with damaged hair who crave softto-the-touch locks. Plus, with every purchase of the treatment, S-Factor will donate $2 to breast cancer research at City of Hope.

Info: tigihaircare.com

salon52.ca

10/13/09 2:43:49 PM

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dŚĞ ƌŐĂŶ ƚƌĞĞ ƉƌŽĚƵĐĞƐ ĨƌƵŝƚ ǁŚŝĐŚ ŝƐ ŚĂƌǀĞƐƚĞĚ ƚŽ ƉƌŽĚƵĐĞ ƌŐĂŶ Žŝů ǁŚŝĐŚ ŝƐ ǀĂůƵĞĚ ĨŽƌ ŝƚƐ ŶƵƚƌŝƟǀĞ͕ ĐŽƐŵĞƟĐ ĂŶĚ ŶƵŵĞƌŽƵƐ ŵĞĚŝĐŝŶĂů ƉƌŽƉĞƌƟĞƐ͘ &Žƌ ŵŽƌĞ ŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶ ĂďŽƵƚ ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ ĂŶĚ ƚŽ ĮŶĚ Ă ĚŝƐƚƌŝďƵƚŽƌ ŶĞĂƌ LJŽƵ͕ ƉůĞĂƐĞ ĐĂůů ϭ͘ϴϬϬ͘Ϯϲϴ͘ϮϮϰϮ ǁǁǁ͘ĮƌƐƚůĂĚLJƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ͘ĐŽŵ

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,ĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů͕ ƚŚĞ ďĂƐŝƐ ĨŽƌ Ăůů ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ͕ ŝƐ ƌĞŶŽǁŶĞĚ ĨŽƌ ŝƚƐ ƐŬŝŶ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞũƵǀĞŶĂƟŶŐ ƉƌŽƉĞƌƟĞƐ͘ ,ĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů ŚĂƐ ƚŚĞ ŚŝŐŚĞƐƚ ĐŽŶĐĞŶͲ ƚƌĂƟŽŶ ŽĨ ĞƐƐĞŶƟĂů ĨĂƩLJ ĂĐŝĚƐ ; & ƐͿ ŽĨ ĂŶLJ ĞƐƐĞŶƟĂů Žŝů͕ ƉůƵƐ ƚŚĞ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚ ďĂůĂŶĐĞ ŽĨ KŵĞŐĂ ϯ ĂŶĚ ϲ & Ɛ͘ ƐƐĞŶƟĂů ĨĂƩLJ ĂĐŝĚƐ ŚĂǀĞ ƚŚĞ ĂďŝůŝƚLJ ƚŽ ĞŶƚĞƌ ĚŝƌĞĐƚůLJ ŝŶƚŽ ƚŚĞ ůŝƉŝĚ ůĂLJĞƌƐ ŽĨ ƐŬŝŶ ĐĞůůƐ͕ ƌĞƉůĞŶŝƐŚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ŽŝůƐ ƚŚĂƚ ĂƌĞ ůŽƐƚ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ƐƵŶ ĞdžƉŽƐƵƌĞ͕ ƉŽŽƌ ŶƵƚƌŝƟŽŶ Žƌ ŶĞŐůĞĐƚ͖ ĐůŝŶŝĐĂů ƐƚƵĚŝĞƐ ŚĂǀĞ ƐŚŽǁŶ ƚŚĂƚ ƚŚĞLJ ĐĂŶ ĂĐƚƵĂůůLJ ƐůŽǁ ƚŚĞ ĞīĞĐƚƐ ŽĨ ĂŐŝŶŐ ŽŶ ƐŬŝŶ͘ ,ĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞƐ ĂŶƟͲŝŶŇĂŵŵĂƚŽƌLJ͕ ƐŽŽƚŚŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞƐƚŽƌĂƟǀĞ ƉƌŽƉĞƌƟĞƐ ƚŽ ƌĞƉůĞŶŝƐŚ ĚƌLJ͕ ĚĂŵĂŐĞĚ ƐŬŝŶ ĂůŽŶŐ ǁŝƚŚ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĞŵŽůůŝĞŶƚƐ ƚŚĂƚ ŝŶĐƌĞĂƐĞ ƚŚĞ ƐŬŝŶ͛Ɛ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĐĂƉĂĐŝƚLJ ĨŽƌ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌĞ ƌĞƚĞŶƟŽŶ͘ /ŶĚƵƐƚƌŝĂů ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚƐ ƵƐĞĚ ŝŶ ĐŽƐŵĞƟĐƐ ĂƌĞ ƐƚĞƌŝůŝnjĞĚ͕ ŐƌŽǁŶ ǁŝƚŚŽƵƚ ƉĞƐƟĐŝĚĞƐ ĂŶĚ ůŝƩůĞ ĨĞƌƟůŝnjĞƌ ƚŚĞƌĞͲ ĨŽƌĞ ĚŽ ŶŽƚ ƉŽůůƵƚĞ ŐƌŽƵŶĚ ǁĂƚĞƌ ĂŶĚ ƌŝǀĞƌ ƐLJƐƚĞŵƐ͘ ^ĐŝĞŶĐĞ ŚĂƐ ƉƌŽǀĞŶ ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů ŝƐ ŐŽŽĚ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ďŽĚLJ ĂŶĚ ƐŬŝŶ͕ ĂŶĚ ŽŶĐĞ LJŽƵ ĞdžƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞ ƚŚĞ ďĞŶĞĮƚƐ ŽĨ ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ͕ ǁĞ ƚŚŝŶŬ LJŽƵ͛ůů ĂŐƌĞĞ͘

͵ ͳ

dŚĞ ŽƌŝŐŝŶĂů ͚ϯ ŝŶ ϭ͛ DĂƐƐĂŐĞ ĂŶĚůĞƐ ĂƌĞ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ƐŽLJ ĐĂŶĚůĞƐ ĨŽƌŵƵůĂƚĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů ĂŶĚ ǀŝƚĂŵŝŶ ͘ tŚĞŶ ŵĞůƚĞĚ͕ ƚŚĞƐĞ ĐĂŶĚůĞƐ ƌĞůĞĂƐĞ ƚŚĞ ƐŽŌ ƉƵƌĞ ƐĐĞŶƚƐ ŽĨ ŶĂƚƵƌĞ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ŵĞůƚĞĚ ůŝƋƵŝĚ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ƉŽƵƌĞĚ ĚŝƌĞĐƚůLJ ĨƌŽŵ ƚŚĞ ƟŶ ŽŶ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƐŬŝŶ ǁŚĞƌĞ ƚŚĞ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ŽŝůƐ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞůLJ ƉĞŶĞƚƌĂƚĞ ǁŝƚŚ ŵĂƐƐĂŐĞ͕ ƚŽ ŵŽŝƐƚĞŶ͕ ŚLJĚƌĂƚĞ ĂŶĚ ƐŽŌĞŶ͘ dŚĞLJ ĚŽ ŶŽƚ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶ ƉĞƚƌŽůĞƵŵ Žƌ ǁĂdžĞƐ ƚŚĂƚ ĐĂŶ ĐůŽŐ ƚŚĞ ƉŽƌĞƐ ĂŶĚ ůĞĂǀĞ ƚŚĞ ƐŬŝŶ ĨĞĞůŝŶŐ ŐƌĞĂƐLJ ĂŶĚ ƐƟĐŬLJ͘ ϮϬϬŵů ;ϲŽnjͿ ĐĂŶĚůĞ͘

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Ƭ

ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ͛Ɛ ,ĂŶĚ Θ ŽĚLJ >ŽƟŽŶ͕ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ Ă ŵLJƌŝĂĚ ŽĨ ĞŶƟĐŝŶŐ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĨƌĂŐƌĂŶĐĞƐ͕ ŝƐ Ă ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ ďĂƐĞĚ ŶƵƚƌŝĞŶƚͲ ƌŝĐŚ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjĞƌ ƚŚĂƚ ƐŽŽƚŚĞƐ ĂŶĚ ŚĞĂůƐ ƚŚĞ ƐŬŝŶ͕ ůĞĂǀŝŶŐ ŝƚ ĨĞĞůŝŶŐ ƐŝůŬLJ ĂŶĚ ƐŽŌ͘ ůů ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĂŶĚ ƉĂƌĂďĞŶ ĨƌĞĞ ĂƐ ŶĂƚƵƌĞ ŝŶƚĞŶĚĞĚ͘ ϮϰϬŵů ϴŽnj ďŽƩůĞ͘

ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ 'ůŽǁ Kŝů ŝƐ ƚŚĞ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚ ƌŽŵĂŶƟĐ ĞdžƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞ͘ /Ŷ Ă ůŝŐŚƚ ŵŝƐƚ ĨŽƌŵ͕ ĮǀĞ ĞĚŝďůĞ ĚĞůŝĐŝŽƵƐ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĞdžƚƌĂĐƚƐ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjĞ ĂŶĚ ŚLJĚƌĂƚĞ͕ ŬĞĞƉŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƐŬŝŶ ƐŽŌ ĂŶĚ ĚĞůŝĐŝŽƵƐ ĨŽƌ ŚŽƵƌƐ͘ ůƐŽ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ ĮǀĞ ĂůƚĞƌŶĂƚĞ Ăůů ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĨƌĂŐƌĂŶĐĞƐ ĂƐ Ă ŵŝƐƚĞĚ ƌĞũƵǀĞŶĂƟŶŐ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjŝŶŐ ƐƉƌĂLJ͘ ϮϰϬŵů ;ϴŽnjͿ ďŽƩůĞ͘

ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ ŚĂƐ ĐŽŵďŝŶĞĚ DŽƌŽĐĐĂŶ ƌŐĂŶ Žŝů ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ŶŽƵƌŝƐŚŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjŝŶŐ ďĞŶĞĮƚƐ ŽĨ ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů ĨŽƌ Ă ƚƌĞĂƚŵĞŶƚ ƚŚĂƚ ƉƌŽƚĞĐƚƐ ŚĂŝƌ ĨƌŽŵ ƚŚĞ ŚĞĂƚ ŽĨ ƐƚLJůŝŶŐ ƚŽŽůƐ ĂŶĚ ĞŶǀŝƌŽŶŵĞŶƚĂů ĚĂŵĂŐĞ͘ ƌŐĂŶ ŶĂƚƵƌĂůůLJ ƌĞƐƚŽƌĞƐ ŚĂŝƌƐ ůƵƐƚĞƌ ĂƐ ŝƚ ĚĞĞƉ ĐŽŶĚŝͲ ƟŽŶƐ ĂŶĚ ƉƌŽƚĞĐƚƐ͘ dŚŝƐ ŶŽŶͲŐƌĞĂƐLJ͕ ĐŽůŽƵƌůĞƐƐ ĨŽƌŵƵůĂ ĨƵůůLJ ĂďƐŽƌďƐ ŝŶƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ŚĂŝƌ ůĞĂǀŝŶŐ ŝƚ ďƌŝůůŝĂŶƚůLJ ƐŽŌ ĂŶĚ ƐŝůŬLJ͘ ǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ ƌĞŐƵůĂƌ ĂŶĚ ůŝŐŚƚ ĨŽƌŵƵůĂƟŽŶƐ ƚŽ ĂĚĚƌĞƐƐ Ăůů ŚĂŝƌ ƚLJƉĞƐ͘ ǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ Ϯ ƐŝnjĞƐ͖ ϲϬŵů ;ϮŽnjͿ ĐŽŶƐƵŵĞƌ ƐŝnjĞ ĂŶĚ ϮϰϬŵů ;ϴŽnjͿ ƉƌŽĨĞƐƐŝŽŶĂů ƐŝnjĞ͘ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞ ůŝŶĞ ŽĨ DĂƌƌĂŬĞƐŚ Žŝů ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ ǁŝůů ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ƐŽŽŶ͘

&Žƌ ŵŽƌĞ ŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶ ĂďŽƵƚ ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ ĂŶĚ ƚŽ ĮŶĚ Ă ĚŝƐƚƌŝďƵƚŽƌ ŶĞĂƌ LJŽƵ͕ ƉůĞĂƐĞ ĐĂůů ϭ͘ϴϬϬ͘Ϯϲϴ͘ϮϮϰϮ ǁǁǁ͘ĮƌƐƚůĂĚLJƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ͘ĐŽŵ

ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ͛Ɛ ^ŬŝŶ ƵƩĞƌ ŝƐ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ ƚǁŽ ĚĞůŝĐŝŽƵƐ ŇĂǀŽƵƌƐ͕ ƌĞĂŵƐŝĐůĞ ĂŶĚ EĂŬĞĚ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ tŽŽĚƐ͘ ZŝĐŚ ŝŶ ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ Žŝů ĂŶĚ ǀŝƚĂŵŝŶ ͕ ƚŚŝƐ ŝŶƚĞŶƐŝǀĞ ƌŝĐŚ ƚƌĞĂƚŵĞŶƚ ĐƌĞĂŵ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞũƵǀĞŶĂƚĞƐ ƐŬŝŶ ĨŽƌ ŝŶĐƌĞĚŝďůLJ ůŽŶŐ ůĂƐƟŶŐ ƌĞƐƵůƚƐ͘ ϮϰϬŵů ;ϴŽnjͿ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶĞƌ͘

ĂƌƚŚůLJ ŽĚLJ ŚĂƐ ĐŽŵďŝŶĞĚ ϵ ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ŽŝůƐ ŝŶĐůƵĚŝŶŐ ŚĞŵƉ ƐĞĞĚ͕ ƚĞĂ ƚƌĞĞ ;Ă ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ĂŶƟƐĞƉƟĐͿ͕ ǀŝƚĂŵŝŶ ĂŶĚ ĂǀŽĐĂĚŽ͕ ĨŽƌ ĂŶ Ăůů ŶĂƚƵƌĂů ŚĞĂůŝŶŐ͕ ŝŶƚĞŶƐĞ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌŝnjŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞũƵǀĞŶĂƟŽŶ ĨŽƌŵƵůĂ͘ ,ĞůƉƐ ŚĞĂů ŵŝŶŽƌ ĐƵƚƐ ĂŶĚ ŝƌƌŝƚĂƟŽŶ͕ ďƵƌŶƐ͕ ƐƚƌĞƚĐŚ ŵĂƌŬƐ͕ ƌĂƐŚͲ ĞƐ͕ ƐĐĂƌƐ͕ ĞdžƚĞƌŶĂů ƉŝĞƌĐŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƚĂƩŽŽƐ͕ ƐƵŶďƵƌŶƐ͕ ĂƚŚůĞƚĞ͛Ɛ ĨŽŽƚ͕ ŝŶŐƌŽǁŶ ĂŶĚ ƚŽĞ ŶĂŝů ŝŶĨĞĐƟŽŶƐ͕ ŝŶƐĞĐƚ ďŝƚĞƐ ĂŶĚ ŵĂŶLJ ŽƚŚĞƌ ĂŝůŵĞŶƚƐ͘ ǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ ϯϬŵů ;ϭŽnjͿ ďŽƩůĞ͘

030.031.se.nd09.fl_marrakesh.2.indd 31

10/13/09 2:04:24 PM

who’s Kevin?

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why Kevin?

what’s Kevin?

The products.

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Each focuses on using your tools and high performance products to achieve a perfect cut, blow-out, style or photoshoot, every time.

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10/14/09 1:49:46 PM

The Hairstylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to the World See where this industry can take you!

By Melissa Brazier and Tina Christopoulos

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t

Landscape photos JUpIteRIMaGes

C

anadian stylists are making a splash all over the globe. From New York to Paris and everywhere in between, our industry pros are getting noticed on an international scale. We caught up with seven such stylists to get the scoop on their travels, their experiences and the importance of getting out there and seeing the world.

november+december 09 < s a l o n

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10/14/09 4:43:41 PM

Stylist: Woody Michleb...Destination: Cairo, Egypt

W

oody Michleb started hairstyling in Lebanon at the young age of 16. Today, 23 years into his career, he’s as passionate as ever. In between owning three salon locations—two Woody Michleb Hair Salons and one Static Hair Studio—and running Kenchii Shears Canada, all with his business partner and wife, Amy, Michleb also somehow finds the time to travel and work abroad. One of his favorite adventures: a deluxe trip to Egypt.

Q+A

pt

Egy

Clockwise from top right: Woody and Amy Michleb outside the great pyramids; photos from the big show celebrating the launch of CHI.

We went to Egypt to launch the opening of CHI products. Amy and I worked so hard, but it paid off. It was a killer show, with one of the longest runways we’ve ever worked on: 26 metres. We also had the opportunity to use these beautiful couture dresses, one of which was worth $35,000.

The show was followed by a sit-down dinner for 3,000 people! We were also introduced to many celebrities, and the organizers hired a tour guide to take us anywhere we wanted, including the museums and pyramids.

What is your favourite keepsake from your trip to Egypt?

Our favourite piece is a 5 ft. papyrus of

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hieroglyphics that depicts the journey to the afterlife. When we are at home looking at it, it always reminds us of all the hard work we’ve done and the good fortune we’ve had.

What is your top travel tip for other hairstylists doing international work?

International work is a lot of fun, but you really have to do your homework before you travel. Although we are a country of great stylists, other countries can also pull off some stunning work. In the Middle East, for example, the stylists are killer at upstyling, and will kick most stylists’ butts. Find the niche that they don’t cover and knock ’em dead! ▼

Why did you travel to Egypt?

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10/13/09 1:53:39 PM

Stylist: Franco Della Grazia...Destination: Zadar, Croatia

tia Croa

Q+A As a global artistic director you must be on the road a lot. Do you enjoy travelling?

I love travelling, especially to teach hairstylists from other countries.

Emerging countries are so hungry for education and it’s a joy teaching people who want to learn. I also love experiencing new cultures. I’ve been lucky enough that my career has taken me all over the world.

What took you to Croatia?

Three of the tribal-themed looks Della Grazia (pictured below) coiffed for the Asian world tour’s big show.

I was in Croatia for the Asian world tour, made up of contestants from all the former Eastern Bloc countries. It’s an end of the year education event and celebration that takes place every June over two weeks and combines creative and business seminars and a very big show. We also party a lot. And by the way, it’s on a beach resort.

Tough life! (laughs)

Who did you work with on this trip?

I worked with Nicolas French, who is also an artistic director for Matrix, Daniel Roldan, Errol Douglas, who is an old friend of mine from the UK, and Marcus Seamus. We had over 50 models and the end-of-show catwalk was amazing.

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Would you recommend this type of international work to other stylists?

This is a great path for any stylist to follow. What other career allows you to travel all over the world, work with some of the most amazing photographers and models and get paid while doing it?

What are your top travel tips for other hairstylists doing international work?

Be humble and open your mind and your eyes. Listen, learn and live.

What can Canada’s hair industry learn from Croatia’s hair industry?

Croatians are old-school. Although their contemporary work is becoming more current, their classic work is impeccable. I find a lot of the young Canadian artists do not spend enough time learning the classics. Classic styling, like pin curls or placing rollers, is a must when you do this kind of work.

All the things that young, trendy hairstylists think are old-fashioned are actually a must. ▼

F

ranco Della Grazia, salon owner and Matrix global artistic director, is your typical jetsetter. Born in Australia to Italian parents, his 30 years in the biz has seen him open salons in three different cities—London, his native Melbourne and, most recently, Montreal. About to relocate to NYC to work with fellow Australian Rodney Cutler of Cutler Salon, Della Grazia looks back on an unforgettable trip to Croatia.

salon52.ca

10/14/09 4:44:54 PM

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10/13/09 1:47:51 PM

Stylist: Louis Anthony Coutinho...Destination: Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Q+A

E

ngland-born Louis Anthony Coutinho came to Canada at the age of four. Discovering his passion for the beauty industry at 16, he has been cutting hair for the past 12 years and recently opened L Squared Salon in Toronto’s

Little Italy. Before salon ownership, however, came a bit of adventure. In Nov. 2007 Coutinho travelled to Vietnam for a month and a half to style famous singer Hung Nguyen’s hair for photo shoots and shows.

The experiences I had in Vietnam made me aware of the standard of living there compared to North America. I was cutting some of Nguyen’s family members’ hair because they don’t have enough money to treat themselves. They live in poverty and work very, very hard, making little money, in order to take care of their families. They always give their all to everything they do, and people in Canada can learn from that.

What was your most memorable moment in Vietnam? m tna

Vie

Clockwise from the top left: a snap shot of Coutinho with Hung Nguyen’s family; Coutinho on the back of a vespa touring around; famous singer Hung Nguyen and Coutinho.

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I went to a Nguyen family member’s karaoke bar. The family gave me a shoutout saying, “Thank you for coming here to Vietnam and we enjoyed your company,” and sang a birthday song for me because I would be back in Canada on my birthday.

They also gave me a white

gold chain and a cross.

I was so choked up; it really meant a lot to me.

Why do you think international work is important for hairstylists?

It’s important to leave your own circle and see how others do hair and experience different cultures. In Vietnam people always give 110 per cent in their work, whether it’s hair or not, and that really helped up the level of service I now offer my clients.

Finish these sentences: When in Vietnam never…

…say no to trying new food.

Try everything at least once.

When in Vietnam always…

…go for a hair massage. It’s 45 minutes long and you will feel like you’re in another world. And be sure to go to karaoke—it’s really fun times. ▼

What did you learn on your trip to Vietnam?

salon52.ca

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10/13/09 1:45:31 PM

Stylist: Jesse Minty...Destination: New York City, NY

J

esse Minty, a stylist at Essensuals Salon in Vancouver, joined the Sebastian Professional stylist team for spring/ summer 2010 Fashion Week in New York City. Working backstage at the Michael Angel, Costello Tagliapietra and Diego Binetti shows from Sept. 10 to Sept. 12, Minty was selected as the sole Sebastain stylist to represent Canada.

Q+A

What’s the main trend you saw for spring 2010?

One of the biggest trends I saw for next season

Why do you think international work is so essential?

I believe it is important to be saturated with different experiences. You should always be willing to learn.

For myself, I am always working outside of the box and I think other stylists should strive to do so as well.

Finish these sentences: When in New York for Fashion Week never…

…stress. Be professional.

And be sure to…

…do your best work. The world is watching!

MODEL AND BACKSTAGE PHOTOS COURTESY SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

I took home one great lesson from Thomas Dunkin, Sebastian Professional stylist design team member and Fashion Week lead stylist: don’t stress. It’s crazy backstage, and sometimes things get lost in translation, but as long as your work stays clean and you know the procedure to achieve the final result, then you will get there. Sometimes models show up over an hour late from other shows and you need to have their hair up and ready in five minutes flat. As long as you keep your cool, everything will be okay.

is different textures, whether in the clothes or in the hair. Sebastian Professional’s new Texture Collection is great for achieving these looks.

▼

What did you learn about working backstage at NY Fashion Week?

Jesse Minty working backstage and the runway results at NY Fashion Week spring/ summer 2010.

k

Yor New 40

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8/4/09 2:27:34 PM

Stylist: Rocky Vitelli...Destination: Mexico City, Mexico

R

ocky Vitelli, co-owner of Mane Society salons in Thornhill and Maple, ON, and global artistic team member for Farouk Systems, is a staple on the mainstage of Mexico’s largest beauty trade show, Expo Beauty Show (EBS). An experienced traveller, Vitelli was so impressed by Mexico City after his first EBS show in 2008 that he’s gladly been back twice since.

Q+A What keeps drawing you to Mexico City?

Mexico City’s EBS show is one of my favourites because hairstylists get recognition there. They’re held in as high regard as doctors, for example. The show attracts over 100,000 people over two to three days and it’s very common to come offstage after and be asked for your autograph. It’s insane!

Can you tell me a particular memory that stands out from your travels in Mexico?

Rocky Vitelli onstage during Mexico City’s EBS show and a snap shot of him with Miss Universe USA.

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I remember my assistant only spoke Spanish and I was kind of nervous working with a translator. I was onstage and wasn’t sure how much time we had left. I thought she said 15 minutes so I rushed to get my model finished. When I was done she looked at me and said, “You now have 15 minutes left onstage,” and I had no model to do! I quickly

grabbed someone out of the audience and created this fabulous updo. As I walked away I could see all kinds of cameras flashing and that sent shivers down my spine.

What can Canada’s hair industry learn from Mexico’s hair industry?

How to dress and style long hair.

There, long hairstyling is done in a classic, pulled back, smooth way.

Mexico also does very inspirational fantasy and avant garde hair.

Why do you think international work is so important for hairstylists?

Travelling abroad and being able to share your talent and seeing that response from a packed audience is really great for your self-esteem.

You bring that back to your salon and it creates a huge vibe of positive energy. It reignites that spark and passion for hairstyling. ▼

o Mexic

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Stylist: Kathy Simon...Destination: Hamburg, Germany

any m r Ge

Q+A

Being in Germany during the World Cup 2007 soccer.

Everyone went football crazy.

The hotel lobby was packed every night after each game.

The night of the finals people around the city were glued to their television sets to see Italy versus France. Italy won and our Italian ambassadors made sure to remind our French colleagues of that by posting an Italian flag in the Hamburg academy.

Interesting friction to say the least.

What was your favourite discovery in Hamburg?

The art scene in St. Pauli, a fabulous underground scene

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with very creative and edgy artists. Excellent area if you are into alternative art.

The last time you went to Hamburg, how were women wearing their hair?

O

They either wear their hair in clean, bold, graphic shapes or in simple minimaliststyles. Not a lot of bright hair colour either, and a lot of cool blondes.

Finish the sentence: When in Hamburg be sure to…

…take time to visit St. Pauli and the harbour. And be sure to eat at the East Restaurant and Hotel—it’s very stylish. ▼

What is your craziest story from travelling to Hamburg?

riginally from Montreal, Kathy Simon has over 17 years of experience in the hair and beauty business. A member of the Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks artistic team for both Canada and the US, Simon first went to SKP’s international head office in Hamburg, Germany, in 2004 to represent Canada as a national ambassador. Since then, she travels twice a year to Europe to help out with the always-fabulous Essential Looks shoots.

L-R: the final look Futurism; Kathy Simon (pictured to the right) working onset in Hamburg for the 2007 Essential Looks Diverse Collection.

salon52.ca

10/14/09 4:46:15 PM

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Stylist: Chad Taylor...Destination: Paris, France

B

orn, raised and still living in Vancouver, Chad Taylor started his career in the beauty industry 16 years ago. Now the co-owner of Moods Hair Salon, Taylor is also building an international name for himself with a highly coveted side gig: working backstage at New York and Paris fashion weeks. Starting out in 2002 with just a couple of shows, Taylor now styles at

about 13 shows per season in both cities. Having worked with lead hairstylists like Laurent Philippon, Guido Paulo and Orlando Pita, he and his partner have helped create the runway looks for a number of designers, including Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Givenchy, Michael Kors, Rick Owens (one of his favourites), Christian Dior and Marc Jacobs.

Q+A How did you get into doing runway work?

My partner and I met the designers from the label Heatherette and helped them out with a couple of national events. After that they invited us to do their show for New York Fashion Week.

Describe one of your favourite memories during one of your trips.

Chad Taylor feverishly working backstage at Paris Fashion Week.

France

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One of the funniest hair moments was during a show last season. The look of the hair was clean, beautiful and voluminous. Some models arrived from another show with paint-,gel-and glitterfilled hair. Our only option was to rinse and shampoo these girls, but there was no hot water. We couldn’t feel our hands and the models were requesting champagne to get through the torture.

It all came together for the show though.

What do you love about going to Paris?

The Paris shows are some of the most inspiring for hair. Moreover, some of the venues the fashion shows are held in are very interesting and beautiful spaces like galleries, churches, a tent overlooking a historical park. I love travelling, both recreationally and for work.

But travelling for work is a unique way to view a new city. We love to rent an apartment for the week of the shows to really get to know a neighbourhood, and we get suggestions from locals about their favourite dining spots and events.

Finish these sentences: When in Paris never… …plug in your Canadian flat iron.

And always…

…translate the menu. And be sure to kiss both cheeks! S

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10/14/09 4:46:31 PM

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10/13/09 2:07:38 PM

The HAIR Down Under

A haven for beach bums and surfers, idyllic Australia might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of emerging hairstyling talent. But Down Under is increasingly becoming the place to watch for innovative collections and trend inspiration.

Kevin Murphy, an acclaimed Aussie session stylist and founder of product line Kevin.Murphy, says there are a lot of very talented hairstylists in the country. He attributes part of that success to the Australian fashion industry. “Hair defines whether your look is on trend,” he says. “It’s a very young industry so there are a lot of niche brands. Since there isn’t as much money at stake, it allows designers and stylists to be more creative.”

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PHOTOs COURTEsy HaiR ExPO aUsTRaliia l-R: HaiR, MaRiE Cain, daMiEn RinaldO

By Anupa Mistry

salon52.ca

10/14/09 5:42:02 PM

Australian Exports

Check out these beauty finds, straight from the sandy shores of Oz.

Catherine McNeil The 20-year-old Brisbane-born “Sheila” is one of the most in-demand models for top European designers.

CLOCKWISE FROM THE TOP LEFT: HAIR, MATTHEW WEBB; PHOTO COURTESY HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIIA. PHOTO COURTESY SLICE, PHOTO COURTESY KEVIN MURPHY

Tabatha Coffey

Anthony Wynne-Hoelscher, publisher of Australia’s salon-professional magazine Culture, also agrees that fashion is linked to the emergence of cutting edge hair talent. “In Australia, there is a very good ‘editorial’ sensibility amongst the top stylists,” he explains. “Hairstylists at the top echelon understand that session hair and fashion are all about unity—one does not overwhelm the other.

Ultimately, it’s the consumer who fills salon chairs, not another stylist—so there is no need to impress each other with wacky shapes or techniques.”

Murphy’s known for perfecting beach hair and takes his affinity for loose waves around the world when he tours. “Australia has always had the messy look and that has now translated into texture,” he says. “The girls are asking for big waves and using dry shampoo as a styling product. Matte hair seems to be really hot right now.” He says that the tendency for Aussie collections to feature movement likely comes down to practicality. “The humid weather means it’s really difficult to keep hair straight, so the Australian woman is more likely to embrace the natural movement of her hair.”

Trends are often initially influenced by music videos and celebrities, and then given an edge by the hair community, says Wynne-Hoelscher. “The work on the streets is generally cool, savvy and a bit ‘undone.’”

Despite a penchant for laidback work, Aussie stylists still undergo formal training. “For a career in hairstyling, you can choose either a traditional threeto-four-year apprenticeship, or a full-time program at a recognized institute that usually run for 12 months,” explains Wynne-Hoelscher. He points to Pivot Point, Biba Academy and Toni&Guy as examples of great learning institutions.

And being Down Under doesn’t mean a lack of exhibition opportunities either.

Australia’s Hair Expo, which occurs the first week of June in Sydney, is one of the largest salon trade events in the Southern hemisphere. “The best part of the Hair Expo calendar is the really amazing seminars and workshops that are available,” says Murphy. “It also hosts the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards that determines the Australian Hairdresser of the Year. Industry peers judge the awards, and the gala event is always a great time.”

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This former Shear Genius winner now has her own hair-based reality series on Bravo called Tabatha’s Salon Takeover, where she gives businesses an inside-out makeover.

Kevin.Murphy Stylists are riding the Aussie beach wave by becoming Kevin.Murphy salons.

Evo This quirky, frills-free line of salon-professional products is making a splash overseas.

Culture Culture brings trends, new talent and lifestyle to the Australian salon professional, and features beautiful collections to boot. S

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Global Goods

Ingredients from around the globe boost beauty business

By Pamela Light

l

ocal is lovely—think of freshly picked raspberries in your backyard last summer. But sometimes exotic is essential, especially when it comes to beauty. It’s not unusual for a company to go the extra mile, or thousands of miles in some cases, to find the right ingredient or product to ensure it’s providing the very best for its customers.

morocco

brazil

Argan Oil

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Babassu Oil Aveda is an excellent example of a company that has explored alternative products and found an ingredient that suits its needs and environmentally friendly philosophy.

“The babassu nut is harvested in Brazil and the oil has almost identical properties to coconut oil,” says Tim Kapsner, a senior research scientist for Aveda. “However, the oil we buy is very unprocessed, which is what Aveda wants, and it’s certified organic. It’s a superior emollient and we use it in products that also have foaming and emulsifying properties.” Top-sellers that contain the oil include Smooth Infusion, Color Conserve and Shampure shampoos.

landscape photos JUpIteRIMaGes

Although Berber women have known about this ingredient for centuries, argan oil is the new cutting-edge ingredient in North America’s beauty industry. Argan trees grow in the Southwest regions of Morocco and bear small, round fruit (similar to olives) containing a nut from which the oil is extracted. This ingredient is a super-antioxidant and UV inhibitor, infused with vitamin E, essential fatty acids, phenols and carotenes that moisturize and strengthen hair, thereby increasing elasticity.

Lillian Sciara, vice-president of sales and marketing for Toronto-based First Lady Products, knows the impact that argan oil has had on the North American market. Her company distributes Marrakesh Oil products nationwide and she has watched them take off. A big favourite is Marrakesh Oil Light, a unique hair-care elixir that combines argan oil and hemp seed extract.

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www • For more on these products check out salon52.ca

Building a Community

india

france

Indian Hair

model photo courtesy great lengths canada

Seaweed

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Repêchage produces an entire line of skin and body care products that are formulated with organic seaweed as the key ingredient. “Most of our products have seaweed in them,” says Shiri Sarfati, VP of sales and marketing for Sarkli-Repêchage Ltd. “Roughly 800 kinds of seaweed are harvested off the Brittany coast in France; we use about 15 of these in our products.” Because of the tide in this area, both its waters and seaweed are very unpolluted.

Repêchage then processes its seaweed using a patented cold-microburst method called cryobroyage.

Great Lengths is another example of a company that has established a strong presence in a developing country. The hair used for its extensions is purchased in India. Lillian Sciara, general manager for Great Lengths Canada, explains why. “The story of how the hair is obtained is quite intriguing. Young Indian women go to the temples in the country and sacrifice their hair to obtain blessings— perhaps they are getting married or coming of age. Great Lengths started purchasing this hair because it is very high quality and close to Caucasian hair in texture and movement.”

Initially the hair was quite inexpensive but when the temples realized what an excellent commodity they had, prices soared. “Now it’s a big business for them,” says Sciara. “The hair is cut and bound immediately, with the top and bottom marked so that we always know the cuticle is running in the same way.” S

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Inspired by pop stars and celebrities in China, Korea and Japan, Asian men and women are going golden

L-R: Japanese pop star sensation Ayumi Hamasaki during her Asian tour in Shanghai; reality star Tila Tequila poses on the red carpet during the Rush Philanthropic Art for Life benefit.

Blonde Ambition

alk around your local Chinatown or Little Korea and you’re bound to see a blonde head or two amidst a sea of black and brown locks. Lightening naturally dark hair isn’t a new phenomenon in the Asian community. Carlos Phang of Spellbound Hair Design in Markham, ON, says going blonde is considered a rebellious look that is influenced by Western culture, Barbie and Hollywood sex symbols.

Phang, whose salon regularly participates in shoots and events such as Toronto’s Alternative Fashion Week, says his clientele is about 80 per cent Asian and that their blonde looks are derived from highly influential Japanese and Korean pop stars and rock bands.

John Jen Hoe Chong, a past Contessa winner and owner of Edmonton’s Blunt Salon Inc., describes Asian hair as “more coarse and more densely pigmented. Generally, natural levels 1 to 3.” Warm tones such as red, orange and yellow are present in Asian hair and create technical obstacles when going blonde.

“Asian hair can be extremely resistant to lightening,” explains Chong. “It almost always will need to be toned.” Still, it can be done in a safe way if you take the right steps. “By taking your time and using a lower volume of developer, you can achieve a nice healthy blonde, but it may require more than one process.”

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As head of the technical department at Vidal Sassoon Toronto, John Beeson colours many Asian clients. He feels that lightening colour-resistant Asian hair isn’t something he would do “basically because if you take the hair up to a light blonde, it looks totally unnatural and if you did a tint, because it’s dark, the hair would turn orange-y blonde.”

When dark Asian hair is bleached without toning, it usually ends up bright orange to yellow, explains Phang. “In order to go from a level 1 to 3 to an 8 to 10 blonde, pre-lightening is required with as many as three applications. There are different techniques involved, including using different levels of peroxide at different stages to achieve the desired level before toning.”

Dark-haired consumers with little knowledge of colour treating might apply a box of drugstore hair colour and end up with an off-brown, orange-y hue, says Phang. Chong says that in-salon colour services can result in that same brassy colour if hair isn’t lightened enough or toned properly. “The hair needs to be lifted 6 to 10 levels, depending on the desired shade of blonde. You should always go one shade lighter than the desired level to remove unwanted pigments and tone with a complimentary colour to neutralize the warmth.”

And since regrowth can be stark, Chong says to remember not to overlap when applying colour to the area since it can cause banding or breakage.

“Use the same safe process as you normally

would, always lifting one shade lighter to remove any brassiness.”

One of the most important considerations, says Phang, is to find the right shade to harmonize with skin tone. “Most Asians with olive skin prefer going for ash tones to balance out the yellow undertones in their skin,” he says. “Those with fairer skin tend to look particularly attractive with golden, caramel or coffee-coloured hair.”

Beeson suggests Asian clients usually not go lighter than a light tan blonde, dark blonde or warm brown blonde. “Slightly deeper colours look more complimentary. I’d be inclined to steer toward different shades of red in blue (auburn) or violet tones (burgundy). Stay away from orange tone red (copper) because they don’t work with the skin tone.”

In general, Beeson says he is wary of lightening most Asian clients, not only because the processing can be damaging, but also because the look may not suit the lifestyle, or simply because it can be unflattering. “There are exceptions to blonde when you can do it on the right client,” he adds. “But for an Asian client with virgin hair who wants to add interest, a highlight would work well.”

Chong says he always informs clients that blonde in Asian hair is extremely high maintenance.

“If they are not willing to come in every three to four weeks, then I would suggest doing foils as opposed to all-over colour.” S

keystone press Agency

W

By Anupa Mistry

salon52.ca

10/13/09 3:20:15 PM

Donato-Academy_Ad_Final:Layout 1

10/6/09

3:46 PM

Page 1

Donato Academy will prepare you for a fulfilling career in hairstyling.

• Full and part time programs available • Advanced, hands on training • Registered Private Career College • Under the direction of John Donato, Canadian Hairdresser and multiple NAHA Award winner

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Star Nail’s Elaine Watson takes you on a tour of nail trends from around the world

Design Exchange Elaine Watson, director of marketing and sales for Star Nail International, constantly travels around the globe from Brazil to the Netherlands to Korea observing nail trends as she goes. We asked her to talk about how the industry has evolved globally and what she sees on the road.

What is the North American style of doing nails?

The term “North American” is really quite broad so I’ll break it down by country. First, because of the discount salons in the US, our industry mirrored social change. Women once used artificial nails as a status symbol. It was a way of saying, “I can afford this.” Now, with discount salons making nails affordable to just about anyone, the trend has moved toward short, natural and manicured nails. If a woman has beautiful natural nails, it now says, “I can afford to get manicures weekly.” So currently in the US, the trend is toward spa and manicured nails. In Canada, as you know, the artificial gel nail is still very popular as is acrylic in the southern region of North America. Mexican women love very artificial-looking, long and wide acrylics with lots of nail art on them.

What are some big international nail trends right now?

In Europe, the trend is going toward really long and pointed nails. Holland kicked off this look and it has now taken root in Russia and the Ukraine. Colour gel

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and acrylic design worked into the pointed nail is also popular. In countries like Brazil where nails are just taking off, the look is still square and polished.

Korea, China and Japan are still quite into acrylics and colour designs. Nail technicians in this country have a cultural gift for art and that shines through in their nails.

Why do you think nail trends evolve differently depending on geography?

You would think the answer would be cultural differences, but that’s actually second to where the nail industry has grown. I’ve been to almost every continent and I see the global nail industry as a book: history does repeat itself and the industry goes through the same evolution in each country.

But, no matter where I go, trends evolve the same way. Gel or acrylic is introduced first, making acrylic nails popular. As business grows and the popularity of artificial nails takes off, the prices become high.

Soon after that, discount salons start popping up, causing the local industry to spiral out of control until it discovers that manicures and pedicures can be more profitable than artificial nails.

Culture does play a role, however. Russians have trended away from very “American-looking” long and square nails. They are very instrumental in creating their own unique look.

Where does innovation stem from?

The hub of manufacturing starts in the United States.

You have many “firsts” in manufacturing still leading the global business. And even if a new company comes along, 90 per cent of the time, they’re private labeling from one of our companies. It is education and culture that can take the product and give it a unique spin.

Take Japan, for instance. Many years ago, the Japanese took colour acrylic from “full cover colour” and turned it into design art. The innovation of the product was American but its evolution was Japanese.

What’s the most creative nail trend you’ve seen this year and where was it from?

I’m loving the pointed look from Holland. The nails are so long I’m afraid to wear it myself, but I wish I could! I love attending the show in the Ukraine because everyone is wearing this look. Star Nail International has come up with the first nail tip for this look: “Vamp.” Before, the only way to do this nail was to sculpt it from acrylic or gel. Now, we’ve made it easier for techs who do not sculpt to save time and money when creating this look. S

L-R: NAiLS: jENNifER BENNEtt, photo: doug McMiLLAN, coNtESSA 19; jENNifER SpARkS, photo: dAvid hou; coNtESSA 20 jESSicA MARiE ELLiSoN, photo: BABAk, coNtESSA 17

By Anupa Mistry

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6/12/09 1:46:20 PM

PHOTOS MaarTen de BOuw

NETHERLANDS ACADEMIA Joico opens a new training facility in europe

K

By Melissa Brazier

nown for its picturesque landscapes and forward-minded culture, the Netherlands is also the new home to a major hairstyling community. Situated just outside Eindhoven, the largest city in the country’s southern region, is Joico’s new 38,700 sq. ft. educational facility, the recently christened European epicenter for Joico training and professional development.

Officially opening its doors on Sept. 5 with a major celebration of approximately 400 industry pros, including Joico GM Eric Kater, the facility’s main function is to motivate and inspire stylists, distributors and team members from across the globe. Although the concept is very modern and minimalist, Danielle Swartebroeckx, director of business development for Joico/Zotos Europe, Africa and the Middle East, and Kater also wanted the space to be very warm and welcoming, particularly since it will function as a meeting place for such a diverse group of people. “People fly or drive hours to spend days participating in educational programs with us. So we want them to feel at home and part of the environment,” explains Swartebroeckx.

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Attendees at the grand opening of Joico’s new facility on Sept. 5.

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Upon entering the facility guests are greeted at reception by a tailored personal message displayed on a large flat screen. An open-concept space with eight-metre tall windows, the reception area has at its centre a strategically placed open fireplace and comfy couch. Toward the back of the room there are additional lounge areas and a cleverly hidden kitchen for hosting lunch buffets or cocktail receptions.

Adjacent to this elaborate front area is the Artistic Institute, which is divided into two main parts. The first is the practical classroom that includes a colour bar and consultation area, shampoo and treatment areas and a digital board for the educator running the class. The second is the theoretical stage area where educators can do look and learn demonstrations or host shows. The wall between these two sections is moveable, allowing seating of up to 100 people and transforming the first classroom into a model prep area complete with live feed of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happening on stage. A few of the programs Joico will offer at the new facility include trend collections, J-Cutting and J-Color, train the trainer courses, sales training and so on.

Swartebroeckx sums up best what this new facility stands for in five simple words: passion, love, commitment, dedication and pride. S

Name: Grand opening: Info: GM: Breakdown:

Brands:

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Joico Europe Artistic Institute Sept. 5, 2009 joicoeurope.com Eric Kater 32 staff, approximately 38,700 square f00t facility that includes three meeting rooms (two can be used as small classrooms), one practical and one theoretical classroom separated by a moveable wall and a fully equipped kitchen and bar.

Joico, Senscience, ISO and Bain de Terre

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PHOTOS COURTESY WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Globetrotter

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10/14/09 4:49:30 PM

hair EugEnE SoulEiMan, colour Eva Scrivo, photo gErardE SaMoza

I

Session master Eugene Souleiman takes a quick break between flights to tell us about his jetsetting lifestyle

n 1982, Eugene Souleiman strolled into a job placement centre looking for a little guidance and direction. This meeting not only led him to become an apprentice in a salon under the tutelage of renowned stylist Trevor Sorbie, it also helped Souleiman find his passion.

After working with Sorbie for a full decade, Souleiman eventually branched out on his own. Free to experiment with techniques, he began blending the Sassoon style he had honed over the years with his own avant garde flavour, thus creating a look that would later become his trademark.

“I think people like me to produce something they haven’t seen before, and that’s what keeps me inspired,” he explains.

Another source of inspiration is his work in the fast-paced world of fashion. Now a mainstay backstage at fashion weeks across the globe, Souleiman remembers his first big runway show for Louis Vuitton in 1999, where he worked with fashion legend Marc Jacobs. Today, he has worked with dozens of other notables in the fashion game—Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Valentino, to name a few.

Not restricted to runway, in 2003 Souleiman collaborated with famous artists and brothers Dinos and Jake Chapman on an installation titled The Art of Chess at the Gilbert Collection in London and the Tatintsian Gallery in Moscow. Styling miniature wigs for individual bronzed chess pieces,

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By Melissa Brazier he created very elaborate and unusual looks. Appointed global creative director, care and styling, for Wella Professionals in Sept. 2008, Souleiman continues jetsetting, working on the Wella Trend Vision 2010 collection in New York and is participating in the International Trend Vision Awards in Berlin this month. “I am always on the go and love to be presented with new challenges,” says Soulemain, adding that he is driven by “never knowing what I am doing from one day to the next.”

Still, this session superstar emphasizes that his favourite work destination is New York, which as of last year also became home to the stylist, his wife and daughter. “It’s so inspiring and full of diversity and energy. New York is also the best place to observe a variety of styles—there are no boundaries!”

Infamous for pushing his own, Souleiman gives credit to the amazing training he has had throughout his career. “I am proficient in all techniques of styling hair, whether it’s glamorous, textured, abstract, feminine, tribal or just beautifully cut. It’s because of this that I have a wide range as a hairstylist, which gives me the freedom to mix and create new techniques.”

On that note, Souleiman states the credo on which he modelled his career: “Once you’ve learned the rules, you can break the rules. And once you’ve broken the rules, you can make the rules.” S

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Hair: Marcello Guerresi, salon manager, Biba Salon, Moonee Ponds, Australia Makeup: Kylie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Wardrobe: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

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Hair: Frank Apostolopoulos, creative director, Biba Salon, Fitzroy, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Australia Rising Frank Apostolopoulos and Marcello Guerresi of Biba Salons in Australia create modern yet classic collections Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

A

t

lthough the photos on these pages may look like they are from a single, unified collection, the work of Australian Hairdresser of the Year finalists Frank Apostolopoulos and Marcello Guerresi was created individually, with each stylist using a different technique to colour and style.

Apostolopoulos’s collection takes an ultra-feminine approach, using a palette ranging from soft blonde to deep jet-black. The looks vary from short, half-sphere shapes with clean, smooth lines to lengthy sleek styles with thick fringes.

Guerresi’s collection, on the other hand, exudes a more androgynous vibe. With sharp shapes and all-black fashions, his looks capture the essence of a powerful woman. From a man’s pompadour and a faux hawk to a brushed-forward style complete with sideburns, Guerresi’s work blurs the line between masculine and feminine, resulting in a striking collection of images.

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Hair: Marcello Guerresi

Hair: Frank Apostolopoulos

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Hair: Marcello Guerresi

www â&#x20AC;˘ To view both of these collections check out salon52.ca S

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Bend it like Britain The UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Antoinette Beenders focuses on subtle elegance with her latest masterpiece Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

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nspired by 40s fashion, designers featured pinned veils at F/W 2009-10 fashion weeks around the world. Applying this trend to hair, Antoinette Beenders, vicepresident of creative for Aveda, crafts carefully engineered looks that transform textured strands into elegant veils.

Using a Marcel wave, the first look pulls sections of hair across the face, forming a peek-a-boo veil over the eyes. Next, Beenders marries a traditional bob with a sheer panel of interwoven copper strands that cover almost the entire face. Lastly, breaking free of the veil, is a style featuring a flat fringe and contained frizz on either side.

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Collection: Power Girl Hair: Antoinette Beenders, vice-president of creative for Aveda Makeup: Rudy Miles Wardrobe: Rod Novoa Photos: Greg Harris S

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Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Finest

Men and women get the texturized treatment in Next Dandy

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he theme of Framesiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian Style collection, Next Dandy, is intelligent elegance. The Framesi team pulled together a collection that emphasizes warm hues and wispy contours, and blurs the lines around what is considered masculine and feminine.

The male and female models equally sport heavy fringes, texturized crops and thick panels of accent colour. Linking past to present, the looks also partner very feminine black-and-white Victorian-style fashions with modern cutting and colouring techniques.

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www

• To see part two of Framesi’s trends check out the Energy collection, Future Folk, on salon52.ca.

Project Coordinator: Patrizia Caldera Shooting Coordinator: Container Communication Art Direction: Betti Bongiasca Hair: Evelyn Effrim Botchey Makeup: Silvia Dell’orto Photos: Fabio Costi S salon52.ca

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Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Take on Colour Cheryl Gushueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s makeup collection brings bright colours back into style Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

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oronto-based freelance makeup artist Cheryl Gushue presents a three-image collection reminiscent of the 1980s. Featuring masterfully applied strokes of vibrant blue, teal, yellow and orange to the eyes and a range of shiny pink to red pouts, this collection marries bright colours with dewy, flawless skin. Winged eyes are also partnered with thin, lengthy lashes for an extra dramatic effect.

Each image was shot using several angled mirrors giving a cool kaleidoscope effect and adding to the funky factor. S

Collection: Kaleidoscope Makeup: Cheryl Gushue Photos: Magdalena M

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Japan in Short The team from Kohsuke Visual Network in Japan modernizes the short ‘do Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

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ohsuke Visual Network’s latest collection, which made the finalist list for this year’s AIPP awards, showcases unique texture and colour placement. A range of cropped, geometric shapes with intricate layering and strategically placed colour gives these looks a definite futuristic feel. A colour scheme of dark black, auburn, deep brunette and thick copper highlights plus a myriad pale blue hues compliment the collection’s precision cuts. S

Collection: Liberating of Hair Hair: Takuma Ryosei, Kohsuke Visual Network Makeup: Yumiko Tanahashi Wardrobe: Tsukie Emori Photos: Kazutomo Nagasuka 70

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THE FUTURE OF NAIL COLOR IS HERE.

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10/13/09 2:04:56 PM

O Canada!

Cross-country coverage of Redken’s “Summer with Heart” Campaign

By Tina Christopoulos Vancouver Park Royal South July 10 to 11

Calgary Market Mall June 27 to 28

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Who: Edges Salon and Spa, Calgary When: June 26, 2009

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Who: Redken at LuminaTO, Toronto When: June 8, 2009

Event details: Lina and Mike Chammoury and their

Event details: A Redken tent was set up in Toronto’s

team hosted over 300 people at a gala to kick off Redken’s nationwide ONEXONE fundraising initiative, “Summer with Heart.” Raising money throughout the summer, the salon held silent auctions, raffles and community events.

Yonge-Dundas Square to raise money for ONEXONE. As part of LuminaTO’s Light on Your Feet, the event featured online hair product prescriptions, advice from Redken stylists and a chance to test out the latest products, as well as an onsite ONEXONE photo booth.

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company’s continued support for the charity.

This year Redken launched the “Summer with Heart” Campaign, combining the annual national cut-a-thon with mall events across Canada. From June 1 to July 31, Redken teams hit nine malls across the country and organized a major event during LuminaTO at Toronto’s Yonge-Dundas Square that launched Color Extend and benefitted ONEXONE. Here’s a regional breakdown of the charitable initiatives from the Redken salon community.

PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN

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or the third year in a row, Redken and its partner salons honoured their commitment to eradicating child poverty in Canada and around the world with nation-wide events and fundraising initiatives to benefit the ONEXONE foundation.

“We are all interconnected, and those of us who have so much in terms of opportunities and resources have a responsibility to help those who do not,” says Terry Ritcey, director or education, Redken Canada, explaining the

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Legend Mall Events

St John’s Village Mall July 17 to 18

Salon Events

4 Montreal Les Ailes July 6 to 7

Quebec Place Laurier (St. Foy) June 27 to 28

Halifax Shopping Centre, July 11 Mic Mac Mall, July 10

Ottawa Rideau Centre June 24 to 25 London, ON White Oaks Mall June 13 to 14

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Who: Salon Escape, Toronto When: July 26, 2009

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Who: The Head Shoppe, Halifax When: June 1 to July 31

Event details: The Salon Escape team set up a tent in

Event details: Several of the four Head Shoppe loca-

the park across from their Yorkville location alongside a live jazz band. The team offered discounted haircuts and blow-drys from noon to 6 p.m. and sold raffle tickets with prizes like a Yorkville Club membership and MAC makeup kit to raise money for ONEXONE and a local program that provides breakfast for kids.

tions (Halifax Shopping Centre, Mic Mac Mall, Sydney and New Minas) held cut-a-thons and all the salons had “jean days” when staff members would make donations and wear jeans to work. Plus each salon had a donation box to raise funds for neighbourhood food banks as part of an effort to alleviate local poverty. S

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Out of This World Valerie Meades talks about Inpureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s C20 Salon Team of the Year collection

B y Va l e r i e M e a d e s a s t o l d t o T i n a C h r i s t o p o u l o s

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requent trips to Europe, especially London, greatly influence our collections. We’re fortunate enough to be part of a team (the Pure group) that travels a lot; it makes our brainstorming sessions all the more interesting. We’re constantly throwing around ideas (even the ones that seem crazy) and in the end we keep what works.

Our salon is the baby of the group, so we get a lot of help and support from our mentors, Anna Pacitto-Merlo, Daniel Benoît and Richard St. Laurent. Usually all the salons shoot the same week, so there are 20 to 25 stylists from different salons. It’s incredible how much we inspire each other.

We’re so honoured to have been Contessa finalists and to be able to watch our salon grow. To create a collection, you have to have a firm understanding of your salon’s identity, and always try to reflect who you are through your images.

This collection was inspired by Alexander McQueen’s runway collection that featured gothic-like models, reminiscent of gargoyles, and out-of-this world hair. We like working with geometric cuts. We started with straight lines, and added on volume and shape by texturizing the hair.

Finally, the collection couldn’t have been possible without Andrew Ly, who is a wardrobe genius, and our photographer Ara Sassoonian who, as a stylist himself, knows the perfect angles to spotlight the hairstyles. S

Hair: Valerie Meades, Lino Patraccone, Amanda DiCarlo, Salon Inpure, Pointe-Claire, QC Makeup: Richard St. Laurent Wardrobe: Andrew Ly Photos: Ara Sassoonian

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NAILS

Tip Line

The latest news in nails

New technology doesn’t just improve blow dryers and flat irons; it impacts all aspects of salon life. Technology— especially an interest in micro-particle-producing nanotechnology—is what fuels the launch of Entity, a Chicagobased beauty company founded by nail techs, for nail techs.

“Nails are our business card so they always have to look their very best,” says Lee-Anne SmithHenderson, director of education for Entity and co-founder of Sweetface Beauty Source, Entity’s sole Canadian distributor. “The advancements in technology can take some of the guesswork out of our jobs. Entity addresses the small issues all nail techs have in common, such as bubbles in powder—I didn’t see them anymore when I made the switch, and I thought that was something I was doing wrong!”

Smith-Henderson, who previously worked under CND, says that if nail technicians

want to be better recognized in the beauty industry, they need to demand more out of their products. “We need to invest in a product that has the newest, latest technology—just like medicine, we should do the same with our professions. This will help grow the business.”

Entity, which has a cult following in Japan, started five years ago with acrylic.

It has grown to incorporate two nanotechnology-based skincare lines, Nanovive and the Rainforest Body Couture system.

It’s also developed the first gel line with nanotechnology, Entity One Gel. “Since the particles are much smaller, the gel is way easier to control,” explains SmithHenderson. “Instead of the product in control of you, you can wield it yourself. It’s the one gel product I’ve used that feels and looks most like acrylic.”

For more info, visit sweetfacebeauty.ca.

By Anupa Mistry

Cuccio Naturalé celebrates a decade in business California-based spa brand Cuccio Naturalé has been creating high-performance products for nail professionals for 10 years.

Anthony Cuccio, CEO and president, says, “The last 10 years have been amazing.

I have really seen the line develop into a mature spa brand. We started with a few niche products and now we have full-scale service spa products.” Offering tools for everything from themed manicures and pedicures to specialty treatments like lemon skin lightening treatments, the company continues to grow and produce innovative concepts year after year.

LILY PHOTO COURTESY ENTTITY

Entity Beauty gives nails the scientific treatment

Polish green-friendly clients with Star Nail’s new Eco Nail Systems kit A strong chemical odour emanating from newly manicured hands can keep mani/pedi clients away, but Star Nail’s new Eco Nail Systems kit promises to ditch the scent.

The kit contains four odour-free choices that target any of your client needs, from natural nails to artificial enhancements. Eco Calcium Gel helps reinforce nail growth for clients who want to boost their natural nails, while Eco Gel Overlay System is lightweight and flexible enough to prevent cracking.

The Powder and Gel systems offer nail techs the translucence of a gel with the control of a powder and liquid; perfect for sculpting artificial enhancements or a tip.

For more info, visit starnail.com. S

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MEN

THE BOYSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CLUB Although they may not always be the most loyal of creatures, men are likely to stay true to their barber By melissa Brazier

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rimitive tribes believed both good and bad spirits inhabited every individual, entering the body through the hairs on the head. Implying that bad spirits could only be driven out of a person by cutting the hair, this superstition made the barber the most important man in the community. And although theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not driving away evil spirits anymore, barbers still play an integral role in menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lives, particularly with the emergence of the modern barbershop.

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“Barbershops didn’t keep up with the trends, so men drifted to the unisex and high-end salons.

But with the emergence of the modern barbershop, men are returning...”

In fact, men are returning to the barbershop tradition in droves, as it offers a masculine no-girls-allowed type of environment that caters to their specific needs. “Going to a barbershop is 50 per cent haircut and 50 per cent experience,” says Patrice Alexander, barber and owner of Toronto’s The Forum Barber Parlour, adding that he provides his clients with the essentials— high-end grooming, complimentary beverages, Wi-Fi and flat screens showing the day’s sporting events.

Judah Down, owner of two JD’s Barbershop locations in Vancouver, agrees saying it’s the extra-manly touches like a straight-razor shave, hot aromatherapy towels and single malt scotch that ensures his clients keep coming back.

But what else is it that keeps these men in a particular shop? It can’t be as simple as a nice, stiff drink and their favourite team. Down and Alexander both believe that dependability

is at the top of the list. “Men should always be able to trust three people—their doctor, their mechanic and their barber,” Alexander states simply. Delivering a consistent service and result and staying on top of the trends are key. “Barbershops didn’t keep up with the trends, so men drifted to the unisex and high-end salons. But with the emergence of the modern barbershop, men are returning,” says Down. Another element that draws men to the barbershop is seeing a return on their investment. Down says, “Men also want reasonable prices for services. They want to see value for their dollar.” The main difference between men who go to a shop and women who visit a salon is frequency so services therefore should be priced accordingly.

Lastly, there are two different kinds of men who visit the barber: those who prefer to make an appointment in advance and those who

want to stop by on a whim. Down’s locations cater to the last-minute-Larry. “Barbershops cater to men who don’t book far in advance and often just walk in wanting a cut.

Therefore, you need to be prepared to work fast and hard in order to squeeze everyone in,” he explains, adding that small services in between haircuts keep waiting clients happy.

Alexander, on the other hand, takes more of a salon approach and advises operating by appointment only. “Patrons do not have two hours to sit down and wait for a haircut that takes half an hour—it just doesn’t equate. We find men looking for a barber appreciate our appointment-only policy.”

Regardless of your approach, know that your services should always be custom-tailored to your male clientele. Ask yourself…are you missing out on this chunk of the market? S

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Visit milanosoftware.com to enter n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r 0 9 < s a l o n 79 our contest or to learn more about the many innovative features of our software.10/14/09 4:54:12 PM

ESTHETICS

See the Light Unclear about the difference between laser and IPL treatments?

Read on for a complete rundown

By Melissa Brazier

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lthough the continual advent of new hair-removal technologies is giving estheticians and clients more service options, it can also lead to a bit of confusion—especially when the technologies seem to be based on the same principles. Laser and IPL (a.k.a. Intense Pulse Light) treatments, for example, both use light energy to destroy hair follicles, leaving many estheticians unclear as to the difference between them.

According to Sharon Edgley, clinic manager at Toronto’s Evolution Laser and Rejuvenation Centre, the difference between laser and IPL is the wavelength of light energy that is produced by whatever machine the esthetician is using.

It’s this wavelength that determines the rate at which the target area is going to be affected and how much the surrounding tissue will be impacted.

IPL, for instance, offers a broad spectrum of light with various wavelengths, usually in quick bursts of light (like a flash on a camera). This makes it a fast treatment suitable for broad areas like legs.

Lasers tend to use a single, specific wavelength, making it ideal for smaller areas or customized treatment plans.

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Salon Magazine 10-09:Salon Magazine 07/07

Salon Magazine 10/09

10/8/09

2:52 PM

Page 1

How do you choose a service?

Choosing between laser and IPL treatment will always be based on the individual client. The first step is assessing skin type. “Most of the IPL devices have preset limiting parameters, which can only be used on clients who meet the Fitzpatrick skin type I to III, from pale white to slightly olive skin,” Edgley explains, adding that anyone with a skin type IV or more is not an ideal candidate since darker pigmented skin may over-absorb light and cause burning or blanching.

Next, estheticians need to look at the size and location of the area they are treating. Edgley says full back, for example, can be done much faster with an IPL machine, as the hand pieces are usually larger and no overlapping is required. Stacey Johnston, president of Esthetics Plus, a distributor of professional beauty products in Edmonton, agrees, adding that generally IPL device heads are up to eight times larger than their laser counterparts.

A client’s pain tolerance also needs to be considered. Edgley notes that most clients prefer laser on their face and other sensitive areas as it’s usually less painful than IPL. Lastly, look at the density (coarse to fine), colour (blonde to dark) and growth stage (anagen, catagen or telegen) of the hair to decide which machine will work best.

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What are the pros and cons of IPL versus laser?

Since the first IPL machine hit the market in the mid-90s, there have been tremendous advancements. Johnston says, “It is estimated that 85 per cent of an IPL patient’s hair is removed after only one treatment. There’s more accuracy with IPL than ever before, and with less potential damage to surrounding tissues, the side affects are minimized to a little swelling, if any at all.”

On the other hand, the lasers Edgley’s clinic uses suit a wider variety of clients, allowing hair removal on all skin types. Plus, the spot size of the laser is smaller, making it more precise for minor areas like underarms or bikini lines. Some laser machines also come with a built-in cooling element, making the treatment less painful. Edgley adds that she often uses a combination of treatments to achieve the desired results.

Johnston notes that both treatments have side affects, such as swelling, skin turning pink or red and blistering. The side affects specific to lasers include skin discoloration, hyperpigmentation, burning and/or scarring. IPL patients can experience temporary pigmentation and sometimes bruising. However, proper education by the esthetician can help avoid these adverse affects.

What training is needed?

It used to be that only physicians could operate laser equipment.

Not anymore. However, at the present time there are no training regulations set in place when it comes to offering laser or IPL treatments. Johnston suggests that anyone looking into laser or IPL education should have a strong esthetics background or be a registered skin therapist. She also adds that it’s essential to receive training specific to the manufacturer of the machine you will be using, as components and settings vary. S

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90 YEARS YOUNG Wahl marks a milestone anniversary

hat’s the secret of success for a thriving company? For Wahl Clipper Corporation, celebrating 90 years in business, it’s about “expansion, customer relations and local support for the product,” says Scott Fraser, Wahl Canada president. “We work very closely with our customers.”

That pattern of excellence was established in 1911 when a precocious American high school student began experimenting with a vibrating electromagnetic motor. Leo J. Wahl eventually developed a vibrating massager he sold to barbershops. While promoting the product door-to-door, he recognized a need for more effective barber tools and began work on a new electric hair clipper.

In 1919, Wahl Manufacturing Company opened in Sterling, IL, and sales of the new clipper soared.

From the beginning, Wahl’s secret was a close relationship with customers; he was very involved with his clientele and paid attention to their requirements.

“That’s still our focus,” adds Fraser. “We are very concerned about our customers, from the stylist and the distributor to the wholesaler and the end user.” Plus for added product quality control, Wahl owns all its facilities around the world and is now the biggest global manufacturer of clippers and trimmers.

The company has also innovated: Wahl has a staggering list of tools and products to its credit. Clippers were the foundation, but the business rapidly expanded during the 1940s to include other professional products like salon dryers, shears and shear sharpeners, curling irons, brushes, combs and attachments for clippers. Each successive decade heralded a new innovation or two, starting with the flexible-blade electric razor and the Vac Clipper with vacuum pick-up in the 1960s.

Wahl introduced the first cordless battery-operated hair trimmer in 1967, new foot and back massagers in the 1970s, and, during the 1980s, the Groomsman battery-operated hair trimmer and Zee Curling Iron.

Before the 2000s hit, Wahl had introduced tools for cutting and maintaining hair designs called Hair Doodles and Cool Cuts. The most recent innovation, out this year, is the first Ion Lithium Trimmer.

Despite the innovation, old-school values like strong family committment remain. Leo J. Wahl started out working with his uncle, and family members still run the company today. In the 1990s, Wahl Canada purchased Swenson, another family-owned business with related goals and visions. That acquisition is another example of Wahl’s success and growth.

“Expansion is a very significant part of our business,” says Frank Brown, vice-president of Wahl Canada.

“The company has subsidiaries all over the world, and the professional division is the cornerstone of our business.” And over the years, Wahl has expanded into new and interesting territories. Some are obvious, such as the purchase of Swenson and Moser Elektrogerate in Germany, and some, not so obvious like the opening of an Electronics Division after developing a new battery-operated soldering iron in 1971, and the expansion into Equine Care, developing horse grooming products.

Wahl’s commitment to innovation, quality and customer relations has definitely not gone unnoticed. Not only is Wahl celebrating its 90th birthday—it’s celebrating 90 years of profit and production. S

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photos Courtesy Wahl

W

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10/13/09 3:26:06 PM

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Cross Country

A year after going direct in all but one Canadian region, KPSS recounts the philosophy behind its big move

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undiluted messages being delivered straight from the manufacturer to the salon. Joint marketing efforts between Goldwell and KMS California have also become easier, particularly with the webbased Salon Alliance, a loyalty program involving both brands. In fact, prior to this change, merging marketing and promotion for Goldwell and KMS California was difficult in some areas as certain regions had separate distributors for each line, understandably limiting support for joint initiatives.

What’s more, direct communication from manufacturer to salon has helped KPSS standardize its education on a global level. The only company with three free-standing academies in Canada (Toronto, Vancouver and Montreal), KPSS not only offers standard education across Canada, but also throughout its international academies. This means, for example, an Australian trained Goldwell stylist can move to Canada (or vice versa) and be completely on the same training program.

The KPSS sales force has also experienced a stronger understanding of the products they rep and the salons they service. Working under consistent guidelines and wireless technology, KPSS reps are thoroughly trained on only two major brands, leading to high levels of product knowledge.

“People understand that the beauty industry is changing,” says Ahrens. “Today stylists want a deeper connection with their manufacturers.” And that’s exactly what KPSS aims to achieve. S

aCademy photo Courtesy kpss Canada

J

ust over a year ago, KPSS Canada, manufacturer of Goldwell and KMS California products, got the industry talking when it announced that it would implement a direct -distribution model pretty much across the country except for the Atlantic Provinces. According to Brian Ahrens, president and general manager of KPSS Canada, the move is part of a larger vision – based on a Japanese value known as “gemba” that KPSS Canada adopted from its parent company, Kao Corporation.

Meaning “the actual place” or “the real place,” the term “gemba” is a principle that stresses the importance of manufacturers visiting the site where their products are being used. They should sense, experience and understand consumer behaviour in purchasing and using those products. In the world of professional hair care, explains Ahrens, “gemba” means “closer to stylists, closer to hair”—Goldwell’s official tagline.

“We believe in physically being with clients,” continues Ahrens. “I have gone on the road to personally introduce myself and the management team [to the salons]. And while I can’t be across the country continuously, I have let hairdressers know that I am accessible and that they are the ones who keep our doors open.”

For Ahrens, a direct distribution model allows KPSS to promote this kind of close relationship, which results in clearer communication and focused,

By Morella Aguirre

salon52.ca

10/13/09 3:22:11 PM

12315 Humber Cosmetic Cluster:Layout 1 08/09/09 4:10 PM Page 1

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Then and Now

A look back at Coupe Bizzarre from conception to present

By Melissa Brazier

Four years after the grand opening in Toronto, word of Coupe’s cutting edge reputation had spread.

This scored the salon its first invite to work at one of the largest trade shows in the US, The Chicago Midwest Show. The mainstage presentation featured 12 brunette models showcasing a colour technique called “hush hues” and geometric, disconnected cuts. Bitten by the travel bug, the co-owners went to London seeking muses for Coupe Bizzarre’s annual inspirational collection released from the mid-90s onward.

From the very beginning, education has always been top priority at Coupe Bizzarre . Training focuses on a technique created by both owners called “corrective cutting,” which Pieter explains as “evening out hair density by using a delicate

balance of precision and free-hand texture for fluid, low-maintenance styles.” The owners also stress crosschecked precision texture and, in the colour department, strategic focal points and seamless highlighting. Emphasizing the need to keep a finger on the ever-changing pulse of global street style, the philosophy at Coupe has also always been to partner trends with an individual’s personal style.

Pieter sums it up best. “Coupe Bizzarre’s engine of creativity remains pumping, often moving so quickly it remains undocumented even by us.” S Above: Coupe Bizzarre’s inspirational collection for 2009-2010;

PHOTOS JEN ROWSOM AND PAULA WILSON

P

ioneering. Inspiring. Rebellious. Evolving.

Since the birth of Coupe Bizzarre almost a quarter of a century ago, this salon has become well-known for these things and more.

Co-owner Robert Pieter says it all began when he met Jimi Imij at a shampoo basin. “We were young and fearless—the rest is history.”

The pair opened a salon in Montreal’s downtown in Dec. 1985, and it quickly became known as home to the radical hairdo. Continuing to grow and cross creative boundaries for the next nine years, the pair eventually decided it was time to branch out.

On March 26, 1994, Coupe Bizzarre found a second home in Toronto’s Queen Street West neighbourhood.

From a small, two-chair operation, the Montreal and Toronto salons now boast 40 staff total.

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CON TES SAS

finalist list

T H E C A N A D I A N H A I R S T Y L I S T O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S November 1, 2009 Cocktails 5:00 p.m. / Gala 7:00 p.m. The Sheraton Centre Hotel, 123 Queen St. West, Toronto CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Gianpaolo Colombo, HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Pascal Saab, The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket, ON Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa CANADIAN SALON TEAM Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Hair Xtacy, Burlington, ON Käaz, Montreal Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Salon G&A, Toronto Studio 237, Belleville, ON Suki’s, Vancouver The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket, ON ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Tony Masciangelo, The Alcorn Salon, Toronto Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton John Steinberg, John Steinberg & Associates, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, ON MASTER COLOURIST Michelle Ateb, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Jessica Clark, Suki’s, Vancouver Rasa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON MAKEOVER COLOURIST Martin Alarie, Salon Pure, Montreal Michelle Ateb, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Jessica Clark, Suki’s, Vancouver Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Rasa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Dayna Read, On The Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Cindy Bartlett, Village Hair Studio, Mississauga, ON Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Diana Dagher, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Rudy Pignataro, Salon G&A, Toronto

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TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Adriana Catenaccio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, ON Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Astin Mak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Shane Snow, Salon Escape, Toronto Rocky Vitelli, Mane Society Salon & Spa, Thornhill, ON

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Danille Mandap, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Janelle Pinette, Hair FX Incorporated, Winnipeg Sherlyn Sampang, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Desiree Tan, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Jaye Mcleod, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Jesse Minty, Essensuals London, Vancouver Rudy Pignataro, Salon G&A, Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto Adriana Catenaccio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge Gianpaolo Colombo, HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto Pascal Saab, The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Ken Hung, Suki’s, Richmond, BC Natalia Petcu, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Jason Williams, Kharacter Style Et Couleur, Montreal

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal Melissa Ashley Taylor, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal

MAKEUP ARTIST Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve, Maple, ON Cherie Pia Grassa, Hairspray ’N Gloss, Woodbridge, ON Jon Hennessey, WOW Make-Up and Hair Bar, Vancouver Maxime Poulin, local B, Montreal Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Timothy Day Howard, Sound SalonSpa, St. John’s, NL Alicia Langille, Concepts School of Cosmetology, Halifax Chrissy Marr, Kristy’s Salon, Halifax Tina Raso, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Saira Remtulla, Valentino’s Salon & Spa, Whitby, ON Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape, Toronto

NAIL ENHANCEMENT ARTIST Jessica Marie Ellison, Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics, Toronto Hoai Nguyen, Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics, Toronto Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, AB Tammy Upthegrove, It’s All About Me Esthetics, London, ON Melissa Dawn Zaran, Rumors Hair Studio, Regina

NEWCOMER HAIRSTYLIST Amanda DiCarlo, Salon Inpure II, Pointe-Claire, QC Chad Francoeur, Suki’s, Vancouver Catherine Fort, local B, Montreal Whitney Vallee, Salon Inpure, Montreal Barb Wells, Salon I.D., Barrie, ON

NAIL ART TECHNICIAN Pamela Day, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL Ashley Ann MacKenzie, Blo Bar, Toronto Laura Merzetti, Scratch My Back Nail Studio, Ajax, ON Hoai Nguyen, Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics, Toronto

STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Melissa Bortoluzzi, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Justine Fernandez, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON Israel Garcia, Salon Daniel, Toronto Daniella Scopazzi, W.A.C. Hair Group, Markham, ON John Anthony Viviano, Marca College, Mississauga, ON

SALON INTERIOR Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Industria Coiffure Salon & Spa, Repentigny, QC local B, Montreal Oskar on Scollard Hair Studio, Toronto ur·ban·i·ty the hair salon, Halifax

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Michelle Ateb, Milica SalonSpa, Langley Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Guy Labrecque, Suki’s, Vancouver Astin Mak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

COMMUNITY SERVICE Edges Salon & Spa, Calgary Hair FX Incorporated, Winnipeg Yellow Orange Salon & Spa, Aurora, ON Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, BC Zennkai Salon, Surrey, BC

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert, AB Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Roberto Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Jen Li, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton

BUSINESS EXCELLENCE Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Red Lemon Hair Salon, Georgetown, ON Zennkai Salon, Surrey, BC

salon52.ca

10/14/09 6:23:02 PM

SCOOP

Feeling Hot, Hot, Hot… Lanvain introduces the latest in hood-dryer technology. The HairMaster Ultra’s dual functionality as a dryer and heater uses infrared technology to cut down on wait time. Offering a uniform and constant heat for quick and even results, it also saves space and money.

Fashion Collaboration

PHOTOS ALISHA ZOETHOUT

Back to School Derrick Rutherford and Julio Rodriguez opened Valentini Advance Academy in Guelph, ON, on Sept. 1. The academy was established to service stylists looking to expand their foundational skills and take their education to the next level. Also offered are comprehensive apprenticeship programs, professional portfolio development and business growth management workshops. For more info, check out valentinis.ca.

With Tigi Catwalk’s recently relaunched Your Highness Volume Collection, the brand has also partnered with British fashion designer Christopher Kane. Working with the Tigi International Creative Team, Kane has outlined key hair trends for the fall/winter 2009-10 season and helped create the looks featured in the Catwalk Look Book. The team will also work backstage at Kane’s spring/summer 2010 show in London.

Marca College welcomes new style director Farhad Habib. Having worked around the world, Habib brings his extensive experience to three campuses in central and east Toronto and Mississauga. Marca College in Saskatoon has also undergone major changes unveiled on Oct. 6. The renovated space now features 60 new hairstyling stations, a colour bar, stylish pedicure stations and more.

PHOTO COURTESY MARCA COLLEGE

Change is Afoot

Welcome Back!

On Sept. 1 our offices welcomed a new member back to the team. Jade Bateman returns to Salon Communications Inc. as the director of sales and business development. In this new role Bateman will be responsible for seeking new business opportunities for both Salon Magazine and salon52.ca. S

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EVENTS

Hairapalooza Edmonton The West Edmonton Mall hosted Schwarzkopf Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Hairapalooza on Sept. 20. Winners of the new talent and professional categories, both from Salon on 6th, were Krysten Kirkwood and Sandy Roberts, respectively. As for the Battle of the Salons fantasy category, Rendezvous Salon and Spa took home the hardware. In honour of SKPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 111th anniversary, festivities also included a fashion show, acrobatic air performances and an avant garde runway show by Alanti Salon.

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ourtesy kpss canada

photos chad stwart

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Subscribe

to Salon Magazine

Advertiser Index VYkZgi^hZg

idaa [gZZ

lZWh^iZ

❏ 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (GST INCLUDED)

China Glaze Khrome pg 71 ..............................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com

❏ Save $60.00 with 3 copies of every issue for you and your colleagues. 1 year subscription (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 (CANADIAN ORDERS ONLY,

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MUST BE TO SAME LOCATION. GST INCLUDED)

❏ 1 year U.S. subscription (8 issues) $50.00 USD ❏ Please note my change of address and/or details below for my Salon Magazine subscription.

Donato Academy pg 53 .....................................866-424-2278 ........................ www.donatoacademy.com DWA pg 82 .........................................................800-663-9477 ........................ www.dwa.ca Essie pg 35 ........................................................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com First Lady Hot Styler pg 63 ..............................800-268-2242 ........................ www.firstladyproducts.com

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Great Lengths pg 6-7 ........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthscanada.com

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❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Title ___________________________________________ Business Name____________________________________

Humber College The Business School pg 85 ................................................. www.business.humber.ca IBD Beauty Dream Gems pg 41 .......................800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com Images International pg 86...............................866-942-4247 ........................ www.imageslasertek.com Intercosmetics RVB Rockstar pg 77 ................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca

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❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se192

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Kaaral sense colours pg 29 .............................877-950-4242 ........................ www.kaaral.com Kenchii shears pg 55 .......................................888.453.6244 ......................... www.kenchii.com KMS California pg 17 ........................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.kmscalifornia.com La Biosthetique Trend & Color pg 19 ..............800-661-1424 ........................ www.labiosthetique.com LCN Colour Gel Metallic pg 45 ........................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca Micro-Pigmentation Centre pg 95 ....................888-737-6268 ........................ www.micropigmentationcentre.com Milano Software pg 79 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com NAHA 2010 pg 83 ..............................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.probeauty.org/naha Onesta Hair Care pg 27 .....................................800-663-9477 ........................ www.onestahaircare.com OPI Holiday Wishes pg 15 ................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Point pg 89 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca Redken Straight Collection pg 2-3 ..................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Schwarzkopf Club SKP pg 16 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf Igora pg 4-5 ................................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca SpaRitual Forbidden Collection pg 21 .............877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Star Nail Canada pg 87 .....................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com TBBS Kevin Murphy pg 32 ...............................800-387-2962 ........................ www.kevinmurphy.com.au TIGI Catwalk pg 23 ...........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com TIGI Love, Peace and the Planet pg 13 ............800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com Ultra Skin Care pg 84 .......................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com Wella Trend Vision pg 8-9 ................................800-41-WELLA salon52.ca

10/13/09 5:32:13 PM PM 3/7/09 5:04:36

EVENTS

Photos toP left and right Chris Ventura

L’Oréal Professionnel Fall Preview 09 Over 500 stylists congregated in Mississauga, ON, to get a breakdown of the latest trends from L’Oréal Professionnel. First up was a presentation of the H3 Collection Egoreflection part 2 by Taz Hair Co.’s Daniel Naumovski and Peter Salituro. In the afternoon, Frank Cini and Brennen DeMelo took the stage to demonstrate the Fall-Winter 09-10 Rock ’N’ Folk collection.

John Steinberg’s 50th Anniversary A collection of John Steinberg’s friends, associates and admirers gathered at Toronto’s rock-themed bar Stones Place on Sept. 21 to celebrate his 50th year in the biz. A portion of the proceeds from the party, which was hosted by Salon Magazine, were donated to Steinberg’s charity of choice, the Princess Margaret Hospital Foundation.

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EVENTS

Eufora Photo Shoot Seminar Stylists gathered at Metro Beauty Supply from Sept. 20 to Sept.

22 to learn from Don and Beth Bewley, founders of Eufora, and stylists Dee Fortier and Giancarlo Intini about successful photo-based work. Putting theory into practice, students also conceptualized their own collections from start to finish.

The Micro-Pigmentation Centre hosted a sixday training session, beginning Sept. 7, to certify estheticians in permanent makeup. Students learned the theory and then practiced on live models under the supervision of educators Pat Gauthier, Marcie Rushlow and Terezia Csokai.

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On Sept. 22, a small group of stylists huddled around mannequin heads and models as they trained to become educators for the new Hairdreams extensions system.

Woody and Amy Michleb of Kenchii Canada arranged the workshop in collaboration with Hairdreams artistic team member and educator Sara Duquette.

Photos thomas Wright

The MicroPigmentation Centre Training

Hairdreams is Unveiled

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PHOTOS COURTESY DERMALOGICA

Glamour Hair and Fashion Show

Dermalogica Introduces Clean Start

Toronto’s Vola Nightclub hosted the Glamour Hair and Fashion Show on Sept.

6. The showcase featured hair and makeup

by Tracy Isidore and clothes from Christina Gomes’s line D’Zion. Fifteen models walked the runway in lingerie, daywear and eveningwear to great applause.

On Aug. 26 media and teens went to Scooters Rollers Palace for the launch of Dermalogica’s adolescent line, Clean Start. Melissa Daniels, Dermalogica GM, introduced the line and then skin coach and teen rep Kara Barber provided an in-depth overview of the eight products.

Permanent Make-Up Training Academy November Special Event The November Cosmetic Tattooing Training Course (8th – 13th) is followed by Color through the Skin®, (16th – 17th) a sold out event held only once per year and available only to experienced cosmetic tattooing professionals.

Held in Las Vegas, Vancouver and Toronto it now resides at the Micro-Pigmentation Centre, Inc. in Toronto. By registering for the November class, it allows you as a graduate to participate in the two day workshop. As someone looking for a career change to upgrade their skills and income or as a salon owner looking to increase your bill-out revenue by $400 to $500 per hour, this is an excellent dual opportunity.

6 day academic curriculum – Four instructors to eight students – Discounted student product packages – Models supplied by the school for all procedures – Preferred rates at partnership hotels

Out of town students !

Treat yourself to a weekend in Toronto between the 6 day course and the 2 day workshops and enjoy fine dining or a play or take in a Toronto Maple Leaf hockey game on the 14th as they battle it out with the Calgary Flames. Low corporate rates at the Marriott Hotel while enjoying your stay.

Visit MicroPigmentationCentre.com for complete details Micro-Pigmentation Centre, Inc. s a lsalonMagHalfPgAd.indd on52.ca 4

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EVENTS

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 CONTESSAS, THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS November 1, 2009 Sheraton Centre Hotel Toronto, ON Info: salon52.ca

INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE (FLORIDA) November 7—8, 2009 Broward County Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, FL Info: iecsc.com

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HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

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LAST WORD

n the late 70s and early 80s, I enjoyed touring Canadian hair shows with my Rainbow Room team. To get some audience response while doing a haircut onstage, I always asked if anyone had any questions. A question that always came up was, “What name do you give that haircut?”

I would lean into the model’s ear and ask her name. Whatever she replied—“Susan, Mildred, Gladys”—became the name of the haircut.

Obviously I was being a bit flippant, but it seemed strange to me that people would ask for a name.

But when I look at the careers of some of the amazing standouts in the world of hairdressing, the names of their styles sometimes loomed larger than their own monikers.

Take the late and deeply missed Roger Thompson. Thompson became the artistic director of Vidal Sassoon in the early 60s when Sassoon went to the United States. To give you some idea of how brightly Thompson’s star shone in the hair firmament, he was the only person ever to have his name officially coupled with Sassoon's. The sign above the Sassoon salon that Thompson ran in London’s swank Grosvenor House hotel read: “Roger Thompson at Vidal Sassoon.”

Thompson’s first “named” cut appeared in 1967—the Greek Goddess.

He cut the model’s hair, which was then permed, but, under Sassoon’s direction, not set—unheard of in those days. The Greek Goddess was a revolution. It was the first Sassoon look to have movement. The look got good press coverage in the UK, and then appeared in American Vogue and everyone wanted it.

Then Thompson invented a new technique that you're probably familiar with—the layered cut. He took the Greek Goddess and cut the top hair shorter than the under hair. He named the haircut after his model’s cute nickname—Mouche.

Thompson called his next new style the Isadora, inspired by the 1968 film about dancer Isadora Duncan. A bob cut very long in the back and shorter at the front, the hairstyle was geometrically reminiscent of

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Duncan’s long flowing scarves.

In 1969, Thompson did something totally revolutionary, and put the UK on the map as a top place for learning hairstyling. He blended the Mouche and the Isadora, producing the hairstyle that we know as the Shag.

Then he came out with the Havington, a cut that started behind the ear and went around the head in a round technique. It was asymmetric, geometric and had whimsical long pieces at the front. Forty years later, the Havington still appears in modern remakes.

On the subject of hairstyles that keep getting reinvented, let’s move from the sublime—Roger Thompson—to the ridiculous—the mullet.

When I Googled this infamous word, almost four million sites came up. Possibly starting as early as the Middle Ages with Charlemagne, the mullet is known today by many different and colourful names, according to geographical location. Here’s a sample: Tennessee Top Hat, Kentucky Waterfall, Canadian Passport, Ape Drape, Norco Neck Warmer, Hockey Hair, Power Shag, Achey Breaky Hair and (understandably) Forbidden Hair.

Love or hate the mullet, its aliases just go to prove that, to borrow from the Bard, a good name is an “immediate jewel.” S

TOP PHOTO JUPITERIMAGES STEINBERG PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

What’s in a name?

I

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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Expand Your World AMSTERDAM ANTWE R P & E I N D H OVE N E XC L U S I V E E D U C AT I O N

with JOICO

EVENT In April 2010, join Joico on this 5-night/6-day artist experience to the avant-garde cultural Centre of the world to receive elite inspiration and an exclusive 2-day hands-on training with our most premiere International Joico Artists at the new Artistic Institute at Joico Europe in Helmond, The Netherlands.

For more information Speak to your Joico Sales Representative, visit www.accessjoico.ca or www.joicoartistscanada.com Š2009 JoicoŽ Laboratories, a division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3

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