Salon Magazine, November/December 2013

Ce 20lebr Ye ati ar ng s!

picture perfect A step-by-step guide to

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

organizing your next photoshoot

7

top hair stories from 2013

All that glitters spotlight on...Cut and colour

predictions for 2014…Glowing makeup and nails… Marketing to men for the holidays… Plus, the 25th Annual Contessa Awards Finalists!

november+december 13 $5 salonmagazine.ca

NEW CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER OFFER YOUR CLIENT A HIGH FASHION COVERAGE SOLUTION

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Be part of the next generation of haircolor. Get Chromatics in your salon today!

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CAN WIN THE STYLE MASTER 2014 2.500 attendees

from all over the world

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participant countries

7finalists

international

Stylings created for the Style Master 2013 International Contest Ekaterina Khloptsova 3rd Finalist. Aura beauty Salon.

Chelyabinsk, Russia

Cliff CK Cheung Global Winner, Indulgence Salon.

Hong Kong

Alexander Callegari 2nd Finalist, Hairstudio Salon.

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Cliff CK Cheung, Global Winner: “For me the Style Master International Contest is the best competition on this level.”

Alexander Callegari, 2nd Finalist: “This contest gives us a platform to present our work as artists.”

Ekaterina Khloptsova, 3rd Finalist: “This competition is a magnificent professional and personal experience.”

Participate: www.stylemasters.com/contest

THE COLOMER GROUP

Be part of the most prestigious International Contest in hairstyling.

Available in salons worldwide.

EFFORTLESS VOLUME ExpEriEncE body, lift and movEmEnt. introducing thE volumE collEction by moroccanoil. www.moroccanoil.com

NEW! CHARMED COLLECTION Turn on the sparkle and charm this holiday season.

Limited edition CND Shellac™ and Additives transform ordinary into ornamental.

Let the celebrations begin.

Discover the new Holiday Collection and matching VINYLUX™ shades at a store near you.

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WHAT'S YOUR COLOUR?

Find your perfect match from over 60 fabulous shades.

Cream Puff #108

Studio White #151

Lavishly Loved #126

Negligee #132

Romantique #142

Beau #103

Grapefruit Sparkle #118

Strawberry Smoothie #150

Cake Pop #135

Gotcha #116

Pink Bikini #134

Hot Pop Pink #121

Tutti Frutti #155

Hot Chilis #120

Tropix #154

Lobster Roll #122

Electric Orange #112

Hollywood #119

Rouge Red #143

Wildfire #158

Red Baroness #139

Scarlet Letter #145

Burnt Romance #161

Decadence #111

Bloodline #106

Tinted Love #153

Masquerade #130

Dark Lava #110

Married to Mauve #129

Vexed Violette #156

Lilac Longing #125

Grape Gum #117

Purple Purple #138

Rock Royalty #141

Regally Yours #140

Daring Escape #109

Azure Wish #102

Water Park #157

Blue Rapture #162

Seaside Party #146

Midnight Swim #131

Limeade #127

Gilded Pleasure #115

Serene Green #147

Pretty Poison #137

Powder My Nose #136

Impossibly Plush #123

Svelte Suede #124

Rubble #144

Sugared Spice #152

Faux Fur #113

Fedora #114

Night Glimmer #160

Bicycle Yellow #104

Locket Love #128

Steel Gaze #149

Silver Chrome #148

Cityscape #107

Asphalt #101

Overtly Onyx #133

Dark Dahlia #159

Black Pool #105

november+december.13 salonmagazine.ca features 50

Picture Perfect

52

best ’dos of 2013

54

stYle sirens

58

A step-by-step photoshoot guide.

A look back at who and what made the headlines in hair.

Industry professionals predict upcoming hair trends for 2014.

rocKer glam A behind-the-scenes look at Salon Magazine’s exclusive holiday-inspired cover shoot with Moroccanoil artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero.

62

collections

81

canadian HairstYlist of tHe Year awards

Rokk Ebony Artistic Team, Christine Margossian, Rocky Vitelli, Sharon Blain, Christopher Deagle, Genevieve Collerton, Damien Rinaldo, Martin Hillier, Timothy Switzer, Frank Cini

Check out the list of this year’s 25th Annual

Contessa Awards’ finalists!

on our cover: Photographed exclusively for Salon Magazine Hair: Antonio Corral Calero for Moroccanoil Hair assistant: Laurie Deraps (l’Eloi) Makeup: Nico Guzman (l’Eloi) Styling: Isabelle Long (l’Eloi) Photo: Neil Mota (l’Eloi) Model: Justine Paquette (Next Models Canada)

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sHaron blain, beecroft, australia

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

18 Limited-Edition Shades INCLUDING 6 NEW LIQUID SAND™ SHADES AND REAL WHITE GOLD AND SILVER LEAF TOP COAT

COLORS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM: My Favorite Ornament*, All I Want for Christmas (is OPI), Cute Little Vixen, Underneath the Mistletoe, In My Santa Suit*, Visions of Love*, Warm Me Up*, Wonderous Star*, All Sparkly and Gold*, Sleigh Ride for Two, Ski Slope Sweetie, I Snow You Love Me, Silent Stars Go By**, Baby Please Come Home**, Make Him Mine**, It’s Frosty Outside**, Emotions**, Kiss Me at Midnight** Pure 18K white gold & silver leaf Top Coat

All I Want for Christmas Ch hristtmas for is s... is...

HOLIDAY BY OPI Find us on

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Call 800.341.9999 ©2013 OPI Products Inc.

regularS

Studio mekkaSchwarzkopf profeSSional

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18 20

editor’S letter

22

Salonmagazine.ca

25

hairlineS

The Pros on Set p. 25; Colour Reaction p. 25; Total Radiance p. 25; Four Luxe Additions to Moroccanoil Body p. 26; Bye-bye Frizz p. 26; New and Improved p. 26; Looking Back: Shades EQ Turns 25 p.28; Makings of Greatness p. 28; Do the Wave p. 30; Cool Comfort p. 30; Turn Up the Volume! p. 30; Holiday Hair Inspiration from Sassoon p. 32; Then and Now: François Prieur p. 32; Tolbox: KQC Professional p. 32; Green Corner: The Joy of Doing Good p. 34; Nice Tool Kit p. 34; Creative Stroke p. 34; Makeup Menagerie p. 36; Nails: Sparkle, Sparkle p. 38; Nails: Hit the Road p. 40; Nails: Nailing Holiday Glamour p. 42; Colour: Vivid & Vibrant p. 44; Men’s: 9 Holiday Promotions to Try for Male Clients p. 46; Editor’s Picks p. 48.

82

profile

On the Cutting Edge

86

buSineSS

3 Ways to Attract More Clients

87

conteSSa gallery

64

rokk ebony artiStic team, rokk ebony, melbourne, auStralia

chriStine margoSSian for l’oréal profeSSionnel

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publiSher’S note This month at SalonMagazine.ca

Glam Salon Boutique, Contessa 24, Semi-finalist, Canadian Salon Team of the Year

dazzling nail launcheS

36

88

interiorS

Carte Blanche Coiffure, Montreal

91

eventS

96

Scoop

98

laSt look

makeup menagerie

16

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carte blanche coiffure, montreal

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

NEW for rebellious hair

LISS UNLIMITED

TM

4 DAYS OF SMOOTHNESS EVEN WITH 80% HUMIDITY.* Smooth and supple hair fibre.

Frizz-control and brilliant shine.

*

Instrumental test: shampoo + masque + smoothing cream vs. classical shampoo.

To get Liss Unlimited in your salon, contact your L’Oréal Professionnel business consultant or call 1 800 361-1861.

EDITOR’S LETTER

ARE YOU LOOKING FOR A DOCTOR?

SEARCH THE BEAUTY FINDER AT ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM! Browse our professional directory for doctors and high-end skincare products across Canada!

Feel the Excitement

G

litz , glam, and inspiration—and maybe even a few tears, it’s all an integral part of what makes a photoshoot come to life. For me, one of the best parts of my job is the

opportunity to be a part of the behind-the-scenes happenings on set. In my experience, it’s often what happens before the photographer begins clicking away that is just as incredible as the final images.

From hair and makeup to fashion selections and the stylist’s final touch-ups, watching the transformation of a fresh-faced model into

THE

BEA F UTY

IND

ER

FIND DOC P SKIN ROFES TORS A CAR SION ND E ACR A OSS PRODU L CAN C ADA TS !

SEA

RCH

NOW

!

glamorous rock star—like the one on this month’s cover—is nothing short of magic. But as many of you know from your experience with editorial or competition photoshoots, a successful day on-set not only requires an incredibly talented team, but a highly organized and wellco-ordinated schedule in the months, weeks and days leading up to the shoot. For some stylists, especially those just starting out, the idea of embarking on a photoshoot may seem a bit overwhelming. That’s why, on page 50, you’ll find an easy-to-follow guide that gives you the tips and advice you need, from monthly planning to dealing with a shoestring budget, straight from the pros who’ve been there.

Although I’ve had the behind-the-scenes experience many times, my editor’s shot at the top of this page was my first time in front of the camera. From my hair and makeup to working my best smile without blinking, it was all nothing short of pure excitement. In the weeks and days leading up to this year’s Contessa Awards Gala, it’s a similar excitement that I imagine many of you are feeling. After seeing the stunning entries to this year’s Contessa Awards, then congratulating some of the finalists—you’ll find a complete list on page 81—I’m looking forward to meeting you at the gala, in Toronto on November 10.

Get set for a spectacular night, and best of luck to all of the finalists!

Contact Megan at megan@elevatemagazine.com Anna Lee Boschetto

facebook.com/ElevateMagazine twitter.com/elevatemagazine elevatemagazine.com 18

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CMYK / .ai

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Editor

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Are you a Doctor in Canada?

Do you want to be a part of ELEVATE’s Beauty Finder?

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca

new!

Pu re C re a t i v i t y. Pu re Ar t i s t r y. U n l i m i te d Po s s i bi l i te s ! Š2013 RUSK 13AF145610 call 800.USE.RUSK for more information www.facebook.com/ruskhaircare

@ruskhaircare

AVAILABLE AT:

publisher’s note issn 1197-1495 volume 22 issue 15

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

editor

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca editor-in-chief (on LeAve)

Melissa hill

group Art director

gillian tsintziras 416.869.3131 ext.106 gillian@salonmagazine.ca editor-in-chief (french)

Yasmin grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssociAte editor

valerie Lam 416.869.3131 ext.119 valerie@salonmagazine.ca onLine editor

Jillian Wood 416.869.3131 ext.112 jillian@salonmagazine.ca

Sustaining Your Passion for Beauty

H

designer

stephanie Macdonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca copY editor

Jennifer d. foster contriButor

chris tsintziras group puBLisher

Laura dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca AssociAte puBLisher

Jade Bateman 416.869.3131 ext.120 jade@salonmagazine.ca

ow many people in your life can truly say that they are actually passionate about what they do for a living? By my guess, anyone working in a creative field would

most likely rank the zest they have for their work pretty high. In the salon industry, we hear a lot about passion and it’s really the fuel that drives so many people to take their craft to the next level. After recently connecting with two enthusiastic professionals who share a true joy for beauty, I am reminded of the wave of excitement that can inspire and encourage

senior Accounts MAnAger

samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 samantha@salonmagazine.ca Account executive

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca production MAnAger

Alan swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca operAtions MAnAger

Karren han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca circuLAtion MAnAger

target Audience Management inc. t. 905.729.1288 f. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca executive Business AdMinistrAtor

candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

professionals within this dynamic industry.

At the Eufora Global Connection in Los Angeles, owner Don Bewley (above)—who isn’t your typical manufacturer—opened the show with such heartfelt gratitude for his salons and distributors, that he actually got emotional. But it wasn’t until I saw him having a blast cutting hair on stage with his two buddies that I realized Don’s dedication to his craft. Put a pair of shears in his hands and it’s easy to see that hairstyling is not only his passion, but it’s also in Don’s DNA. Also, at Metro Beauty Supply Academy, I had the pleasure of attending an event featuring Davines’ artistic director, Angelo Seminara. As British Hairdresser of the Year in 2012, Angelo is today’s superstar—a true industry professional. Not only was his work inspiring, but he also spoke with great affection about his view of hairstyling on a very organic level.

Speaking candidly, Angelo shared his thoughts about the ability that hairstylists have to transform people’s lives, underscoring the reality that it truly is very important work!

From the latest holiday hair trends to glamorous collections, in this

chAirMAn

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt to the chAirMAn

pam fulford

vice-president & West coAst editor

greg robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca suBscription rAtes for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD A d d re ss ch A nge s email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: salon Magazine Subscription Services

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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

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issue of Salon Magazine you’ll find plenty of ways to keep your excitement for hair, beauty and style soaring to new heights. So, tell me, what are you doing to spark you own passion or inspire it within your salon team?

Laura Dunphy Publisher

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Silver

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Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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INJECT RICHER, BOLDER COLORS INSIDE. FEATURING THE

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A 100% MORE EFFICIENT COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM!

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Available at: CosmoProf Beauty, International Beauty, Maritime Beauty, and Star Bédard *112 participants across Canada responded to the Club Matrix survey from July 17 to August 14, 2013.

WE LISTENED & THIS IS WHY YOU* LOVE COLORINSIDER: Ultimate shine No ammonia No odor No itchy scalp

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Get Contessa tickets before they sell out!

With the Contessa Awards Gala on November 10 in Toronto, you need to get your hands on these hot tickets, pronto!

It’s a show you won’t want to miss. For show updates, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/SalonMag), Twitter (twitter.com/Salon_Magazine) or watch the live webcast on our website!

MOST-READ STORIES

View the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year finalists’ collections on SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa!

SEE ONLINE How One Salon Saved $14,000 in Costs

COLLECTIONS from John Gillespie, Orb See our editors’

14 Cool Runway Looks Made From…Rubbish

gift picks that they think you’ll

Hair and Beauty, Sonia Provost, and more!

enjoy giving (or receiving) this

6 Questions with Ted Gibson

TALK TO US! 22

EXCLUSIVE

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

holiday season on SalonMagazine.ca.

TOP PHOTO: CONTESSA 25, FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, ANDOR BUBELENYI, FUSS ART OF HAIR, EDMONTON, MAKEUP: PACO PUERTAS, STYLING: CARY TAUBEN, PHOTO: LEDA & ST-JACQUES, COLLECTION PHOTO: HAIR: JOHN GILLESPIE AND CATHERINE SCOBIE, JOHN GILLESPIE, PERTH, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, STYLING: CLARE FRITH , PHOTO: JACK EAMES

Download Salon Magazine’s App. Same great magazine.

Now in your pocket.

facebook.com/SalonMag twitter.com/Salon_Magazine pinterest.com/SalonMagazine #Contessa2013 salonmagazine.ca

Sebastian Introduces

NEW! SHINE SHAKER and TEXTURE MAKER At Sebastian we believe the most fearless creativity lies where opposite worlds come together.

Embrace the inspiring style power of the combination of opposites with Sebastian two-sided styling combo: Texture and Shine

COMING JANUARY Find your nearest salon at WWW.SEBASTIANPROFESSIONAL.COM

www.facebook.com/SebastianProCanada Š2013 Procter & Gamble Inc., Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved

Thicker Fuller-looking Hair IT’S ALL WE DO

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©2013 Bosley, Inc. | Beverly Hills, CA 90212 | All Rights Reserved. | Printed for Scientific Hair Research, LLC. *Bosley, Inc Doctors recommend Bosley Professional Strength products in Bosley, Inc offices.

WE PROUDLY SUPPORT

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HAIRLINES NEWS

COLOUR REACTION

THE PROS ON SET

Absolute 3 offers a nonallergic colour line.

The OSiS+ Session Label line by Schwarzkopf Professional offers five new products to get stylists ready for all the carefully executed looks—and unexpected surprises—at the photoshoot: OSiS+ Session Label Flexible Hold Hairspray, Strong Hold Hairspray, Salt Spray, Silk Shine Cream and Molding Paste. Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks artist Joey Marchese from Toronto’s bob+paige salon shares his favourite ways to use the Session Label line.

1.

Using the Strong Hold Hairspray, I am able to set a style in place for the perfect photo and then manipulate it into

choices to clients with sensitive

another look without ruining my finish. Also, the Molding Paste allows me endless reinvention of any style.

2.

3.

Colourists can confidently recommend protectant colour

The Salt Spray gives me a boost of texture with a workable finish so that I still have control of the look.

To give a look a smooth, shiny finish without creating a greasy or overburdening effect, I pick the Silk Shine Cream.

scalps and allergies with Lisap Canada’s Absolute 3 line, which is free of PPD and resorcinol—the culprits of allergic reactions to colour. Also, the formula’s technology, Anti-Age Microemulsion Complex system, allows for improved colour penetration by controlling the colour molecule size when mixed

PHOTOS: COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL,THINKSTOCK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

with peroxide, resulting in deeper, richer and longerlasting results.

Total Radiance BioSilk Color Therapy offers seven hair-care products for a variety of colour clients. The line includes sulphate-free shampoo for all hair types; shampoo for blondes that is made with violet-based ingredients; moisturizing conditioner; leavein treatment infused with maracuja oil and reparative intensive mask. Formulated with VibraRiche blend, Color Therapy prolongs the intensity and radiance of colour while enhancing the touchable shine factor.

salonmagazine.ca

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

salon

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hairlines news

Four Luxe Additions to Moroccanoil Body

Bye-bye Frizz

Kenra Smooth eliminates up to 99 per cent of curl and frizz after the first use, while protecting hair from damage—plus there is no downtime for clients, so they don’t have to wait many days before resuming their activities such as exercising or swimming. Compliant with regulatory agencies in the United States and Long hailed as an elixir for supple, nourished skin and hair, argan oil is one of the hottest

abroad, Kenra Smooth also includes an easy-to-

ingredients to look for today. The argan oil-infused Moroccanoil Body collection adds Body Butter,

use tool for precise, drip-free application, which

with a concentrated body cream enriched with a vitamin and protein blend that won’t leave

saves time and eliminates product waste. The

greasy residue; Shower Gel, offering a mild formula to restore skin’s optimal moisture balance;

Kenra Smooth Anti-Frizz after-care collection,

Shimmering Body Oil, which revives dull skin; and Dry Body Oil, which is made with a weightless

is also available, prolonging the superior shine

formula that absorbs quickly into skin and improves overall skin texture and tone.

and smoothness.

New and Improved The reformulation and repackaging of TIGI Catwalk and Bedhead Dumb Blonde lines offer next-generation styling benefits to a range of hair types. top styling lines. Catwalk Oatmeal and Honey Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask can be used daily to smooth and moisturize dry, damaged hair. Treat your blondes to Bedhead Colour Combat Dumb Blonde shampoo and conditioner, which strengthen hair and fight colour fading and sulphatefree Catwalk Fashionista Violet Shampoo and Conditioner that reduces brassiness and are also ideal for highlighted and non-pigmented hair. Then return life to clients’ fine, flat hair with Catwalk Your Highness Elevating Shampoo and Conditioner, which prevent static and fly-aways while adding volume and moisture.

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photos: chris tsintziras, courtesy kenra,tigi

Update your salon shelves with the newest from TIGI’s

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

VOILÀ IS A STORY OF PERSEVERANCE AND SUCCESS, OF TIRELESS SEARCHING, OF FOCUS ON DETAIL, OF ITALIAN-MADE QUALITY AND STYLE. THE STORY OF A PRODUCT THAT HAS BEEN ON THE PROFESSIONAL SALON MARKET FOR MORE THAN 30 YEARS AND CONTINUES TO EVOLVE AND ANTICIPATE THE FUTURE TODAY. VOILÀ SPEAKS THE LANGUAGE OF COLOR AND HAS TRANSLATED IT SCIENTIFICALLY TO OFFER AN INNOVATIVE CUSTOMIZED COLORING SERVICE. ASK YOUR SALES REPRESENTATIVE TODAY. KINGDOM BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. BC 1-800-738-8666

ESP SALON SALES, AB, SK, MB 1-800-667-2566

VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. ON 1-800-465-7965

H. CHALUT, QC 1-800-363-2525

BROTHERS BEAUTY SUPPLY, NB 1-888-738-4555

HAIRLINES NEWS

Looking Back: Shades EQ Turns 25

In celebration of the anniversary of Redken’s popular demi-permanent colour line.

A Unique Story A go-to choice in so many salons, Redken Shades EQ has endured the test of time and evolving trends, from Debra Messing’s “commercial copper” in Will and Grace to today’s pop-shock red in divas, like Rihanna. “The unique story of Shades EQ is the acid pH formulation: no alkaline or ammonia derivatives, which minimizes the swelling in the hair cuticle and maintains the strength and structure of hair,” reflects Terry Ritcey, director of education/events at Redken Canada and former salon owner and stylist. “Grey coverage is still the top reason why clients choose colour. But the number one reason clients do not want to colour their hair is because they believe it will damage it. Shades EQ answers both issues with our formula.”

Fashion-forward Evolution Always designed to be a gentle and versatile colour solution that could refresh, correct and glaze, Shades EQ evolved from the liquid Gloss to Cream when cream application became the stylist’s preferred medium and allowed for more control in creative work. “Cream also gives deeper, richer and denser colour results, such as the bold trend colours we see on

Debra Messing’s “commercial copper”and Rihanna’s pop-shock red

pop and rock stars today. Shades EQ has progressed with fashion,” says Ritcey, such as the most recent Cover Plus line, a brightening colour conditioning cream that gives hair the indemand, balayage, sun-kissed effect.

MAKINGS OF GREATNESS

Most famous for the CHI flat iron and BioSilk Silk Therapy line, the creator of Farouk Systems, Farouk Shami, has penned his life story in American

by Choice. From his arrival to the United States in 1965 with $71 to his name to running for governor of Texas in 2009, Shami’s story is not only about the billion-dollar hair-care and cosmetic company he founded, but it also offers a modern perspective on the state of the American dream and an honest look at what it’s like to build a progressive haircare business.

The book also includes photos of Shami with legendary men Donald Trump, Vidal Sassoon and the King of Jordan.

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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

PHOTOS: IMAGECOLLECT, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Farouk Shami’s autobiography tells an unconventional success story.

salonmagazine.ca

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hairlines news

cool comfort A must-have soothing routine.

Winter’s blustery cold days and nights that can cause havoc on your skin are right around the

Do the Wave Matrix Opti.Effects

introduces a wavy hair shaping system that respects hair integrity.

corner. Treat clients’ skin to a well-deserved pampering routine by stocking your retail space with Malibu C Ultra Body Lotion. This 100 per cent vegan formula delivers optimal thirstquenching moisturizers that soften dehydrated skin. With a botanical blend of wellness ingredients such as olive oil, organic aloe, as well as a super-hydrating trio containing sesame

runways and is super easy to maintain. “Straight hair is a trend that’s 15 years old,” says Matrix

seed oil, shea butter and sweet almond oil,

lead educator, Roch Lemay. “There’s a generation of clients who have never seen anything

the light fragrance of orange and vanilla bean

but straight hair—now, they will want texture.” Give clients another reason to love your salon

essential oils is a welcoming touch for the cool

services with the new Opti.Effects by Matrix, an innovative hair-shaping technology that offers

months. Although rich, Ultra Body Lotion is

customizable curls and waves, using two different wave patterns with the same wrap.

quickly absorbed and leaves no greasy, tacky

Opti.Effects reshapes the hair and is formulated with neutral pH to work closer to hair’s natural

residue—which makes it ideal to finish manis

state and does not aggressively swell the hair shaft and cuticle.

and pedis for clients on the go.

Turn up The Volume!

Give clients sexy, gravity-defying, voluminous hair.

Answer the desire of fine-haired clients for fullness and volume with the new Volumifique by Kérastase. Made with Système Ampliflex Technology that reinforces the root and thickens the fibre, hair is lifted from roots to ends with lightweight texture. The line includes a complete hair-care regimen: first, cleanse hair with Bain Volumifique, then treat fine hair with Gelée Volumifique Rinse-Out and, finally, prime hair into styles with Mousse Volumifique and Spray Volumifique.

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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

photos: courtesy matrix,thinkstock, chris tsintziras

Clients can’t get enough beachy waves—that modern, wearable style that’s ruled this year’s

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

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HAIR.DO & Eyes Receive the limited edition KM.EYES compact on the house by purchasing POWDER.PUFF & HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY. Part of our Holiday collection, this gift pack includes all the essentials for a night out!

hairlines news

Holiday Hair Inspiration from Sassoon Help your client stand out at that holiday party with expert insight from Sassoon Toronto creative director, Lorraine McAndrew, and colour director, John Beeson.

1. For a beautiful, effortless look, give clients a wearable cut for the day that can be easily transitioned into an evening party look with a quick blowout or loose curl.

2. Start with a great classic cut, such as a bob with textured ends. Whether it’s a blunt or softer edge, the texture will quickly add

Trending: Three fall/ winter 2013 Cut and Styling Secrets.

dramatic flair.

3. Take cues from Constructivist (above left), a look from Sassoon’s fall/winter 2013 collection, with its minimalist, modern hints of

Plus, go to SalonMagazine.ca for your chance to win a course at the Toronto Sassoon Academy.

colour. Place hues in subtle bands of muted tones, moving from dark to light and then to dark once again.

Toolbox KQC Professional HyPerion Dual ioniC Dryer “The lightweight [tool] doesn’t strain my wrist during a long keratin treatment, and the long cord gives me the freedom to move everywhere. In my 17 years of experience as a hairstylist, these are the features I’ve wanted in a hairdryer.”

— Min Hee McKenna, Min Hee Style Salon, Vancouver

Nov+Dec 1997

Salon Magazine Celebrates 20!

Then and Now: Holiday Chic Stylist: François Prieur, Swizzlesticks Salon/ Spa, Calgary

Style like a sleuth with the lightweight and quiet motor.

The Look: Clean lines, pulled back off the face and backcombed with maximum height added at the crown. “I had just learned this technique and was inspired by it,” says Prieur.

Move without restraint using the extra long 3.5 metre cord.

32

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

Then: At the time, Prieur had just joined Civello at Toronto’s Rosedale location. With 15 years of experience, Prieur was looking to further his career and do some editorial work.

In 2002 he relocated to Calgary, where he is with Swizzlesticks Salon/Spa. Now: As a director at Swizzlesticks he is responsible for apprentice education and believes that ongoing education is key for stylists at every level. In fact, Prieur says that even he’s “always keeping up with education.”

photos: courtesy sassoon, chris tsintziras

Choose between positive or negative ions: positive ions will open hair cuticles for easier styling, while negative ions promote faster drying speed by breaking apart water molecules.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

“shearling darling, you know I like to shake things up in winter.”

winter collection 2013

parka perfect

warm & toasty turtleneck

shearling darling

toggle to the top

sable collar

Get obsessed at facebook.com/essiecanada mind your mittens

America’s nail salon expert.

Since 1981.

1-877-309-8619 www.essie.ca

hairlines news

green corner

The Joy of Doing gooD Aveda helps fight climate change in festive ways.

The holiday season is not only about gift giving and sharing lavish feasts with friends and loved ones, but it also welcomes the opportunity to reconnect with our sense of community. Aveda, a leader in environmental responsibility, and the first beauty company to receive the Cradle-to-Cradle certification for its commitment to sustainable products, is

Sexy Hair launches a line of professional tools.

making waves once again with gift sets that come beautifully

Providing salons with a

pre-packaged in festive, handmade lokta paper from Nepal.

complete styling package,

For the last six years, Aveda has purchased the lokta bark

the styling line Sexy Hair

paper that dresses its gift sets from the Himalayan Bio-Trade

adds two professional

papermaking co-operative in Nepal. Ninety-one per cent of

tools: a hair dryer and flat

the papermakers are women, and income from papermaking

iron. The black ceramic

helps people support their families and communities in ways

titanium hair dryer utilizes

that were otherwise unimaginable.

ionic technology to create

A total of 2.400 families can buy food and clothing, repair their homes, send their children to school – essentially, plan for the future. More than 4,900 people are hired to make more than 1,400,000 sheets of paper for the special Aveda gift sets over the course of the partnership. And because it protects 34,000 acres of forest, this special holiday program also fights climate change.

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

volume and prevent thermal damage. The ceramic flat iron heats up to 450°C and uses titanium plates to seal in moisture and control static and frizz for a shiny finish.

Creative Stroke Bring out your playful artist side with a pop of temporary vibrant colour from Structure Pigment Pencils, available in Purple Velvet, Fashion Fuchsia and Blue Cheer.

The pencils glide on easily for all hair types and wash out after one shampoo. Try them out to achieve three different effects:

1.

Adjust the colour intensity by applying Pigment Pencils onto damp hair,

2.

Smudge Pigment Pencils onto hair before working in a gel, such as Structure

3.

Set the vibrant colour by spraying Structure Finish Instant Hold Working

followed by a blow-dry for a softer effect, or directly on dry hair for bold looks.

Control Hard Hold Gel, for a cool and urbane style.

Spray onto hair after applying Pigment Pencils.

photos: chris tsintziras, sexy hair, structure

Three ways to experiment with new hair-colouring pencils.

34

Nice Tool Kit

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

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Good for the earth and your looks, SpaRitual’s Signature Collection of gluten-free, certified organic and fairtrade lip glosses soothe and beautify the kisser.

Makeup Menagerie

Dive into these beauty picks to create the most glamorous party looks.

Luminous and natural is the Aveda Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, Heart Lands, Lands, which features naturally flushed cheeks, stained pouts and nomadicinspired eyes, such as Hyacinth and Dusk Orchid shadows and Winterberry lip glaze.

PHOTO: FINALIST, CONTESSA 24, MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR, MARIA LI, PHOTO: BABAK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

HAIRLINES NEWS

You make a difference when you become a GCS Member

AEROSOLS

PAPERS

we recycle FOILS

GLASS

USED COLOUR

CHEMICALS

36

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

METAL

LIGHTING

HAIR CLIPPINGS

we

ELECTRONICS

salonmagazine.ca

Lash Up

The Fall 2013 Modern Renaissance collection

by SST Cosmetics offers two new lip and eye palettes that are mineral-based and free of parabens or talc.

Ardell Professional Self-Adhesive eyelashes do not require glue for application and go on in two easy steps— plus, they can be reused by removing Give the look of luxury with the Mirabella Beauty Sparkle Collection, new for the holiday season with Glitter Glaze eye shimmer and Swirling Pearl Brilliant highlighter.

Beyond Brilliance

by Bodyography Professional Cosmetics offers four rich creamto-powder eye shadows that leave a multidimensional crushed pearl texture.

the adhesive.

Ardell Professional LashLites offer a natural-looking eyelash band that adds fullness in three steps. Customize the fit by trimming any excess length before application.

Go to SalonMagazine.ca for pro tips on applying eyelash extensions.

Contessa

2014 Salon Interior Design FI Hair

Mosaic

Pure Self

4 semi-finalists and 2 finalists created by Lanvain Design

Lanvain Design at the summit of their art for 2525 years. since ans.

www.lanvain.com 1 800-361-2586 L.A. Coiffure et Spa

salonmagazine.ca

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

salon

37

HAIRLINES NAILS

OPI The new Designer Series lacquers feature graniteinspired colours for subtle sheen and matte texture.

CND Give her a classic mani or pedi with Rouge Red.

CND adds Fairy Dust mani at Behnaz Sarafpour S/S’13

Sparkle, Sparkle

CHINA GLAZE Happy HoliGlaze is a bevy of 12 glittery polishes— we love Your Present Required.

Dazzling nail launches, just in time for the holidays.

IBD Equipped with a timer, LED iLite is a compact, energysaving lamp that cures all types of LED gels.

38

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

CUCCIO Manhattan Mayhem is one of three new Holiday Sparkle shades.

SECHE The Gracious and Kind collection offers six colours, such as Sparkle Clink Kiss.

ESSIE The new Encrusted Treasures collection is nothing short of genteel with six luxurious hues to choose from.

MORGAN TAYLOR Give a taste of the Royal Life in this new holiday collection, inspired by the decadent lifestyles of the regent and queenly.-

TEXT:VALERIE LAM, MODEL PHOTO COURTESY CND, PRODUCT PHOTOS COURTESY IBD, CUCCIO, SECHE, OPI, MORGAN TAYLOR, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

VENIQUE Offer a perfect complementary colour to any holiday frock with Sea Diamonds.

salonmagazine.ca

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Formula for success:

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Unsurpassed 100% Great Lengths hair, in two personalized systems to meet your client’s every need. Extension services continue to be the fastest growing revenue stream for salon professionals. At Great Lengths we continue to provide cutting edge, hands-on curriculum, working with highly trained educators who will start you on the road in a new and exciting career direction.

Contact us at 1-800-461-9302 to join the Great Lengths Network of hair extension artists – and add your name to the list of success stories working with the world’s most recognized and respected brand of hair extensions in the industry.

www.greatlengthscanada.com

hairlines nails

Hit the Road What to Know About a Mobile Nail Salon Business.

✓

Be sure to check with your municipal and provincial government, such as Canada Business Ontario and B.C.-based Inter-Community Mobile Business Licence

✓

✓

2.

your own hours, going to clients’

new clients.” When a nursing home

homes, blinging out your business

called her interested in finding

vehicle—is this what going mobile

out if she could offer services to

means? Find out what to expect

seniors, McGuire decided to give it

from these two nail technicians

a try. “I’ve been doing manicures

who have made the change: Tracy

and pedicures for them for eight

Thomas, owner of Tracy Thomas

and a half years, and it’s the most

Mobile Esthetics in Halifax and

rewarding job,” says McGuire. The

Alison McGuire, owner of Total

advantage of going to clients also

Body Esthetics in Thornbury, Ont.

means that nail technicians can work just about anywhere. McGuire has co-organized a monthly

Keep your operation spick-and-span by adhering to

Combined, Thomas and McGuire

a local restaurant and created on-

sanitation standards set by Health Canada and your

have been in business for 24 years,

site manicures at weddings, while

local health unit. For easy clean-up every day, try Accel

yet neither established their client

Thomas has offered pedicures for

Prevention Wipes, a ready-to-use

base using traditional advertising.

new moms and moms-to-be.

surface cleaner and disinfectant.

Thomas started her business

Display your certification and

when an existing client invited

license credentials and health

her to perform nail services at big

and sanitation inspection

parties. When word got out that

approvals—this raises

she travelled, the referrals kept

the credibility of your

coming. “Referrals also help ensure

business operations.

that when I enter a new client’s home, I can feel safe about it.” As

3 Holiday Promotions Ideas for Your Mobile Nail Salon

it turns out, it’s also been a great opportunity for men. “I’ve even gained male clients for esthetic services when someone referred

Offer an office holiday beauty party: facials,

her husband, and men like the

manicures, cocktails or all three!

privacy that a mobile salon can

Whether at their home or hotel suite, for larger

provide,” says Thomas. Now that her client base is growing, Thomas has created a website, so that

Pre-design nail art that can be applied and

potential clients can easily find

removed quickly for clients who want to change

prices and services.

their nail looks between events.

40

benefit of going mobile is going to

Program, for mobile business license requirements.

groups, help guests prep for their big night out!

3.

According to Thomas, “The biggest

their business on the road. Setting

The Power of Word-of-Mouth Advertising

J 1.

Reach an Untapped Market

nail technicians who have taken

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

“Manicures and Martinis” event at

How to Stay Connected Don’t let the lack of associates become a business setback. In an effort to keep her connections fresh, Thomas joined the Cosmetology Association of Nova Scotia. “As an association member, I can stay informed and know that I’m not alone,” she says. McGuire makes a point of regularly visiting a few nearby distributors. “By telling them about your mobile business, the sales reps can keep an eye out for what’s new,” she says.

McGuire also signs up for classes offered by distributors and various manufacturers, which are usually online.

text:valerie lam, Photos: chris tsintziras,thinkstock

Checklist for Going Mobile

Chances are that you know a few

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

From The runway To your nails makeover your manicure with TrenDs — the contemporary line of soak-off gel polishes inspired by the current fashion trends featured on the runway and in fashion magazines. Fierce, Fabulous & Fun, TrenDs places Fashion at your Fingertips through Fashion Forward Colors, multifaceted Finishes, multidimensional Glitters, show-stopping shimmers, and Trendy Patterns & effects. innovative and unprecedented, they can be used alone for instant nail fashion, or as an overlay in combination with the shade of your choice. Feeling fancy? use a selection of TrenDs shades to create nail couture through stylish designs. your nails will receive a standing ovation.

Model is wearing #PartyGirlProblems and Girls’ Night Out by Gelish

Coming Soon

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Performs like Gel, Applies like Polish™ Ask your local distributor for genuine Gelish today Made in the USA 714. 773. 9758 © 2013 Hand & Nail Harmony • Brea, CA 92821 Gelish and Hand & Nail Harmony are registered trademarks of Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Nailing Holiday Glamour

Ring in the bling! Fill your appointment books with these showstopping holiday nail art ideas that your clients will love.

Photo courtesy

Change Up the Gloss

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CND Starry Night

One of the hottest nail trends in 2013 is texture—so why not send off the year with a twist on this look? “Simply alternating either a chunky glitter polish or a textured one with a shiny shade creates a new, dual luxe design,” says Melanie McCulley, owner of Well Manicured in Manhattan Beach, Calif., and Gelish educator. She adds that using a matte top coat over a glossy mani creates a varied texture design.

Artistic Nail Design Midnight Matte and Shine For step-by-step tutorials on how to create some of these dazzling designs, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, COURTESY CND, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

BEAuTy SERvIcES

salonmagazine.ca

Short2Long Hair Extensions...

Colour Play The holiday season comes with a recognizable palette of metallic, rose gold, black, and

You're inches away from amazing

wine-stained hues. As a first step in creating

CND Gilded Glimmer

a unique holiday collection that your salon can offer, “get your nail tech team together for a little wine or pizza party and play with these holiday colours,” suggests Alisha Rimando Botero, executive vice president and creative director at Artistic Nail Design. Display their creations on a tip wheel, mood board or photo album for clients to look through during their visit, which will give them added inspiration.

Artistic Nail Design Emerald Holiday Bling

And don’t forget to wear the designs yourself!

Statement Embellishments “Three-dimension nail accents are popping up all over the fashion world,” says McCulley.

“I use small gems, rhinestones, studs and tiny pearl to create custom nail jewelry. If using regular polish, paint your base colour first, [apply] a thin coat of clear [polish] and

CND Off the Grid

take a long pair of needle-nose tweezers and apply the embellishment one-by-one onto the nail bed.” According to Rimando Botero, embellished nail art can also be done on gel nails, by either sandwiching the curing of the embellishment between two glossing top gel coats or applying each piece on top of a gel mani with nail glue resin before air-drying.

easy add-on

Marketing the Accent Nail “Charge nail art by the nail instead of a whole set. This

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We provide: 2 Methods of Reusable Hair Extensions (Tape In and I-Tip Cylinder Extensions) Hands on 1 Day Education from Experts Product expertly produced in USA High quality full cuticle hair extensions

helps clients feel comfortable asking for nail art,” says Alisha Rimando Botero. Not only is this a good way to introduce nail art with one or two accent nails to clients who are more conservative, but the holidays are also the perfect occasion to dial up their regular manicure.

The World Class Leader in Luxury Hair Extensions

www.short2long.com salonmagazine.ca

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

salon

43

hairlines colour

Vivid & Vibrant With colourists being asked more often to

DeepShine Direct’s six new Intense Direct

permanently, Caruso has found a booming

create customized shades for their clients,

shades. Another more subtle shade idea is

business in creating custom hair extensions.

it’s not surprising to see an expanding range

casting the vibrant shades over a level 4 or 5

Colourists at his salon have been taking

of tools becoming available, too. “Fun,

for a downplayed, but interesting tone.

human hair wefts at level 9 and then dying

vibrant colours are really in for this holiday season,” says Karine Jacques, international artistic director for Oligo Professionnel, which

them to create temporary, custom hair

e Don’t… Be afraid to experiment.

Many of the new lines include a white shade

recently launched a range of vivid KOKO

as well. This can be used as a toner or to help

shades. “The great thing about these shades

eliminate unwanted gold tones from blondes.

is that they give colourists the opportunity to

Colourists can also use it with the vibrant

create new options that give more dimension

shades to downplay the intensity. As another

to an already existing colour or create a ‘wow’

option for creating those much-coveted pastel

factor with an all-over, intense pigment,” says

shades, Caruso recommends mixing one part

Jacques. Ready to get to work? Check out

vibrant shade with two parts of any white-

this list of dos and don’ts first.

based conditioner. Vibrant shades can also be

e Do… Prelighten properly

pieces that can be glued or clipped in. “Bright colours are not what they were when they came out years ago,” says Caruso. “Then, it was more avant-garde, and it’s become more fashionable now. You can just lighten a piece in the fringe and weave colour into that area only. It creates more dimension and accents in the haircut.”

e Don’t… Send your client away

intermixed, for instance a red and yellow to

without home care.

create orange or purple and red for fuschia.

While it’s important for any colour client, it’s

To achieve the right amount of “pop” with

“You can use these highly pigmented shades

especially critical for those wearing bright

these vibrant colours, the key is to prelighten

as highlights, to incorporate dazzling flashes

shades. “The trick to working well with these

hair to the correct level. For purples and

of colour or to tone them down a bit with a

high-intensity pigments is to perfectly follow

pinks, take it to a level 8 or 9. For teals and

neutral to create those trendy pastel shades,

the instructions, especially when it comes to

reds, aim for a level 6 or 7. “On natural tones,

as well,” says Jacques. “It’s a question of

developing time, and then making sure your

levels 7, 8 and 9 will get the most vibrancy

how far your client wants to go.”

client is using an at-home routine that will

.

and punch out of the colour,” says Gerard Caruso, artistic director for Rusk and owner of Salon G in Hackensack, N.J., of using Rusk

44

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

protect her colour effectively to avoid fading

e Do… Create custom extensions.

For clients that want to experiment, but not

and losing that nice vibrancy,” says Jacques.

text: melissa hill, hair: Karine Jacques, artistic Director, oligo Professionnel, Photo: alain comtois

How to work with the new range of bright shades.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Intuition shimmer

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hairlines men’s

9 Holiday Promotions to Try for Male Clients The holiday season is not only one of the

hair unless they recognize quality, so gift cards

busiest times in your appointment book, but

are a good way to introduce men to your

also the most giving time of year. “People

services,” says Liounis.

David Raccuglia, creative director at MensDept and owner of Chicago-based Art & Science salons. Make the most of the season with these holiday marketing ideas with men in mind.

1

6

Winter presents different scalp needs including flaking, dryness and tightness.

When they are in for an appointment,

Liounis suggests educating men on winter scalp care right at the basin . “Once you address the causes of scalp problems,

Market the service and product together.

recommend the products that help, such as

“Promote a gift certificate for a service

stimulating scalp conditioners.” It’s important to

then give away one product that the

frame a product recommendation as a solution,

stylist recommended during the service,”

as Raccuglia reminds us, “Men don’t like

says Raccuglia.

buying things that they don’t need.”

2

7

on the back of his hand and educate him on the

reception area.

Manager and stylist Matula Liounis of Chez Cheveux in London, Ont. suggests retailing shave products with

an experience: give him a trial of how it feels benefits of the product as you’re giving him a neck massage.

3

Since shaves are essential to men’s grooming, Liounis takes shaving education one step further by creating

Both Liounis and Raccuglia agree on the most basic marketing strategy: Display holiday promotions in a prominent

place, such as by your station or at your

8

When suggesting a new product or service to men, remember that “men are very resistant to change and they

won’t abandon the cut or product they’ve been using all along. Try asking about his grooming

a print-out of best practices for better shaving

routine and focus on what is not working, then

and including it in gift bags and baskets for men.

create a sales opportunity by offering a solution

“For the holidays, tie the print-out with twine or

to their problem,” says Raccuglia.

something masculine and festive,” she says.

4

When it comes to creative holiday displays geared to men, stick with classic accessories. “Rustic materials,

9

Take advantage of this time of year when people may be feeling more generous than the rest of the year.

During the holiday season people are actively

vintage shaving handles, metal buckets

looking for a unique gift to buy, so don’t

[instead of baskets] and dark colours are all

be afraid to “ask for the top service dollar

good ideas,” says Liounis.

requirement during the holidays,”

5

Don’t underestimate how far a gift card

says Raccuglia.

can go with a new client. “Men don’t usually spend a lot of money on their

a Pack in These Stocking Stuffer Ideas • Offer best-selling products in travel sizes.

• Suggest multipurpose products, such as 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and body washes.

• Display body accessories, such as sponges and loofas, near the product it is used with, which helps explain what the accessory is for. —Matalua Liounis, Chez Cheveus, London, Ont.

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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

text:valerie lam, Photo: hair: lucy cardoza, cast salon, melbourne, australia, styling: andrew zumbo, Photo: amanda Fordyce

are already looking for gifts to give,” says

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

HAIRLINES NEWS

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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Scruples Indie Hair hairspray #superfirm is now available in a 50 ml miniature size— ideal for quick sales at the cash and packaging into holiday baskets.

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Oligo Professionel Blacklight shampoo, conditioner and intensive replenishing mask are formulated for highlighted, lightened and colour-treated hair. Info: oligoprofessionnel.com

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Picture Perfect

W

The Pro’s p te Step-by-S an Guide to e Incredibl t Photoshoo

By Anna Lee Boschetto

hether you need to update your portfolio or you’re ready to enter competition, scheduling a photoshoot can seem more than a bit overwhelming.

In fact, lead hairstylist for Schwarzkopf Professional and five-time Contessa winner Rossa Jurenas says that one of the biggest challenges for new stylists is getting over the initial nervousness. “It’s scary but you have to remember it’s a challenge,” advises Jurenas. While a little nervous energy may fuel your creative inspiration, here’s a how-to guide that will help you keep calm and carry on from the initial concept to the

Kale Friesen, Photographer, Kale JF Photography

final award-worthy images.

1

FOUR TO SIX MONTHS BEFORE THE SHOOT

What’s the Story?

Developing a storyboard around your theme will not only give you the focus that’s required to bring your creative vision to life, but it will also allow you to communicate your vision to your whole team.

“Have a storyboard ready for your photographer,” shares Goldwell artistic team member, Michelle Pargee. “Use inspiration photos of the styles and colours as well as your sketches of the looks you’re are going for.” Contessa photographer Kale Friesen would agree, adding that it’s a great way to stay organized because the storyboard is, “the base for

1

THREE MONTHS BEFORE THE SHOOT

Make It Up

Michelle Pargee, Goldwell Artistic Team Member 50

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

Dee Fortier, Eufora International Artistic Director

Whether you’re working with a

resource. But Tran suggests

important as your photographer

recent grad or seasoned pro, if the

meeting with the makeup artist

when it comes to capturing your

makeup artist doesn’t understand

you’re considering and asking

vision. “Going through a couple

your theme, you can end up in

to see their portfolio; this will

of trials with the [make-up artist]

big trouble. In Contessa finalist’s

save you big-time in the long

before the shoot,” she says, will

Dat Tran’s experience, asking

run. According to Dee Fortier,

eliminate any unwanted surprises

for recommendations from your

international artistic director for

on the day of the shoot.

photographer is always a great

Eufora, your makeup artist is as

photos courtesy kale friesen, michelle pargee, dee fortier, rossa jurenas, dat tran

everyone to keep on task.”

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

1

LAST WORDS From the Pros

FOUR TO SIX WEEKS BEFORE THE SHOOT

N “Remember that when you see the photo you’re

Define Your Style “Hair

plays

off

of

only seeing one side [of

fashion,”

the head]. A lot of people

explains Tran, “if you don’t add

don’t realize that, while

the right clothing or accessories,

they’re doing an amazing

it won’t state the right tone.”

colour, in the end you’re

That said, while more expansive

only seeing one side.”

budgets will allow you to hire

—Rossa Jurenas

a professional fashion stylist, Jurenas

suggests

N “Find a mentor who can

partnering

with local boutiques that offer theme. Also, “you can trade [services] for images to be used in their stores,” shares Jurenas, adding that this is a great way to

Finding Your Face When

budgets

are

tight,

keep costs down, especially for

wrangling friends and family into

first-timers.

playing

model-for-the-day

can

by assisting and asking questions.”

TWO DAYS BEFORE + ON THE DAY OF THE SHOOT

—Kale Friesen

N “It’s important to choose a model who’s not

Keep Organized

necessarily cover-girl

On the day of the photoshoot,

pretty, but someone who

best option. Instead, Pargee says

keeping everyone on the same

has good bone structure,

that finding models is as easy as

page is essential. “Reach out to

is age-appropriate and is

people watching. “Go to a mall,

everyone before the day of the

willing to let you do what

coffee house or places where

shoot with confirmation emails,”

you need to do with their

there are young people and just

suggests Friesen. “It can happen

hair.”

walk around.”

that they don’t have the correct

potential model will photograph

date, and you’re in a real jam if that happens the day of the shoot.”

on-the-spot

When it comes to keeping

snapshot with your phone. “Some

the day rolling, Fortier suggests

people are beautiful in person and

having two models on the go at all

they don’t always project that

times, meaning that when one is

way in a photo,” Fortier explains.

in makeup the other is in hair, and

“But there are people who have

if the photographer always has

a quirky look and they [often]

someone camera-ready, this will

photograph the best.” When it

minimize downtime and delays.

well

is

a

quick,

comes to payment, Pargee says

salonmagazine.ca

1

wasting a lot of time

be tempting, but not always the

All it takes to find out if a

Dat Tran, Owner, Dat Salon

help you. You can avoid

Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional Platform Artist

complementary styles to your

Most

importantly,

on-set

—Michelle Pargee

N “Don’t go too crazy when you first start. Less is more because you learn as you go. You can’t let the fashion overtake the hair. If you see fashion within the first five seconds of seeing a photo, you are missing the mark.” —Dee Fortier

N “Create two looks that

that the cut or colour, plus a switch

flexibility is critical. “I’ve had

back to their natural colour if they

stylists who have looked at a

then get inspired that day.

choose, is all the payment that’s

couple of frames and didn’t like

An image can pop up

needed when you’re working

what they saw after spending

from the hair texture, curl

with newly discovered models;

a lot of time styling,” shares

or braids and it may still

throw in some maintenance hair-

Friesen. “You need to know how

work with the makeup

care products as part of the deal,

to roll with it and have a backup in

and wardrobe.”

and you’re done.

case something isn’t working.”

S

you know you’ll do, but

—Dat Tran

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Best ’Dos of 2013 Here’s a flashback of the styles, shades and hair-raising events that captured our attention over the past 12 months!

By Jillian Wood and Anna Lee Boschetto

On the Edge

Over the Rainbow

Dubbed the “undercut,”

Between brilliant emeralds

celebs, including Rosario

and subtle violets, when

Dawson and Rihanna,

it came to hair colour, it

were seen sporting long

seemed that rainbow

locks on one side of

hues were all the

their head along with a

rage. Young starlets

close shave on the other,

including Madonna’s

putting a new twist on

daughter Lourdes Leon

short coifs.

went green while even more mature women

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like Dame Helen Mirren debuted her pink coif at this

Dollars a 30-yearold man was selling his virgin hair for, on Craigslist, after he got it cut for the very first time.

year’s British Academy of Film and Television Arts Awards.

Chop Shop Not too long, not too short, but just right.

As winter turned to spring, hairstyles were the extremes. From runways to red carpet events, supermodels and stars like Karlie Kloss and January Jones rocked fresh, midlength styles.

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Photos: imagecollect

all about finding a fine balance between

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And the Award for Most Controversial…

When it comes to making waves in 2013, no one does it better than Miley. And that’s just with her hair. From long and ombre to chopped and bleached out, it’s been a total image makeover. On the hairstyle front, you can’t help but be impressed with the chances she’s been willing to take. We’ll skip over her performances.

Paying the Price In the world of the rich and famous, some celebs will spare no expense for their hair, and perhaps no stylist understands this better than Ted Gibson, who raised his prices for a haircut from $950 to $1,200. Upping the ante even further, Reese Witherspoon reportedly spent $1,500 for a branded haircut that is said to achieve the most natural look by

4

treating every hair strand individually.

Number of times women change their hair in a given year, while men change theirs a mere three times in their whole life, according to a UK hair transplant clinic survey.

salonmagazine.ca

3.5 Pounds that the wig that Oprah wore on the cover of O, the Oprah magazine’s September issue weighed.

Royal Tresses

Making It Social Whether they were getting new haircuts or changing hair hues, nearly everyone went to great lengths in sharing their salon experience. Twitter and Instagram were the most popular social media tools of choice among celebs, including Beyoncé and Coco Rocha, who shared their transformations with their respective legions of followers.

Continuing her reign as “The Most Iconic Hair of 2013,” the Duchess of Cambridge ruled supreme as we pined for her stylists’ coveted secrets for achieving her lustrous locks.

Perhaps her signature style is not only a result of exceptional salon treatments, but also a shining perk of her highlypublicized pregnancy.

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Style Sirens

Preview tomorrow’s trends as industry pros weigh in on what’s hot in colour, cut and style for 2014.

By Valerie Lam

A

s we head into 2014, style cues from the past are given an innovative spin that’s all about taking a bold leap into the future. Read on for

the trend forecast.

Colour: Deep Roots and the Mix of Cool and Warm With the sure exit of ombré, 2014 will see a new, darker kind of gradient colour. “Every winter, we see crimsons, coppers and violets sweep through the salon. These sultry, solid colours will be seen with a clear and purposefully shadowed root area,” says Michelle Oliver, a Schwarzkopf Professional colour expert from Kick Hair & Beauty in Edmonton. “Unlike ombré, the darker colour is applied on the first inch, only at the roots and looks beautiful on both very straight as well as curly hair.”

Timothy Switzer, Contessa winner, Goldwell artistic director and global colour master, and owner of Timothy & Co. Salon in Oshawa, Ont., speculates an evolution with this year’s trend colours: “With Goldwell’s 2013 Color Zoom Beautify collection, we saw pastel-candy colours merged into blonde hair and earthy, rusty tones added to dark hair. If we look to fashion we are also seeing metalics and jewel tones, creating an interesting monochromatic colour story, which can easily

“

be translated into the hair colour palette.” The combination of cool and warm shades will become a key trend in hair colour,

Look for interesting, unusual combinations of all shades.”

–Timothy Switzer

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PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

S/S ’14 Marc Jacobs ion Week sh Fa rk Yo w Ne

salonmagazine.ca

3/’14 Prada F/W ’1 n Week Milan Fashio

THROWBACK REVIVAL...

Four styles from yesteryear get transformed into fresh modern looks for 2014.

1

THE PIXIE will be finger-dried with a wash-and-go, punk feel.

4 ultier S/S ’1 Jean Paul Ga k ee W n io Paris Fash

The new undercurrent punk

is inspired by past eras, but with a new spin.

Heavy blunt lines will be chunky and not

“

combinations of all shades, creating texture

worn in the traditional way you thought

and rich reflections,” says Switzer.

about wearing a geometric cut; the hair will be more textured and you will want

Cut: Short Shorts

▼

as well. “Look for interesting, unusual

In a hair landscape that reached a plateau at longer lengths, chopped locks are now

cropping up on the heads of Karlie Kloss,

Coco Rocha and Saskia de Brauw. “We have had long flowing hair for many seasons

and the shorter style trend will return to a haircut rather than a hairstyle,” observes Kevin Murphy. To achieve the modern

chunky bobs, grunge and pure androgyny of cuts, “take ideas from the ‘60s and texture

from the ‘90s and you get a cleaner grunge and grittier take on the ‘60s shapes,” he

says. “Cuts will be geometric. It’s all about having a blunt edge to the cuts, but still having texture that is thick and not thin.

salonmagazine.ca

You have individual beauty in your chair, and there can be a lot of variation in how you execute the trends.”

–Damien Carney

2

––Damien Carney

THE PARTING is off-centred.

The centre part held the spotlight for many years. Instead,

side parts give a delicate line to features.

––Roch Lemay

3

THE MULLET, believe it or not, is returning and is androgynous. To differentiate

from Duran Duran, forsake the ducktail for a cut that blends with the rest of the length and requires less finishing— comme Jean Paul Gaultier ––Roch Lemay

4

THE FRINGE is structured and neo-geometric with graphic lines and can be styled as a

partial or mini-fringe. ––Damien Carney

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55

“

Seen at Gucci, Dior, Prada and Versace, these runway styles, inspired

by David Bowie are great for the younger generation.”

–Roch Lemay

of how it’s done. In the ‘80s, gelée was the product. You let the liquid gel product dry with the hair to get that glossy, crispy finish.” To steer clear of too much throwback reference, Lemay says, “Start one inch out from the scalp to give a natural flow and volume to support the style and apply gelée on the ends for gripped texture.”

To adjust the style for clients who are working in more conservative environments, Lemay suggests softening the blunt cuts and edgy finishes on longer lengths, falling at the shoulder to three inches below shoulder-length. Alexa Chung is the perfect example of a blunt, chunky style that the career woman can work, says Lemay. “It's uncomplicated, finished and still has that edgy cut. It’s also easy to take care of,

d Bowie n at the Davi Tilda Swinto m, U.K. eu e V+A Mus Exhibit at th

and she can wear it with a fringe. There’s a certain volume to the look and she won’t need a round brush.” He suggests teaching clients to blow dry hair upside down for natural movement at the back of the head and lots of soft texture.

the hair to look like you have put product

your client’s bone structure or lips. You have

in it,” Murphy adds.

individual beauty in your chair, and there

style can be attributed to stars including

can be a lot of variation in how you execute

Michelle Williams in the new Louis Vuitton

the trends.”

ads and Miley Cyrus’ punk-edge texture. “My

the shorter cut trend means that you’ll have to master the fundamentals. “Graduation

clients have been requesting this shorter look,” says Sean Godard, international

haircut to have a strong impact,” he says.

Style: David Bowie-inspired Grunge

“The techniques will be very [precise]—for

Let’s dance to this new wave of punk-grunge

director at Toronto’s Salon Tocci. “In 2013, we

the past eight to 10 years, the techniques

styles, which, according to Roch Lemay,

saw this trend begin and I think we are going

have been distorted with undercutting and

Matrix lead educator, can be modified for

to see it blossom into 2014. I find that trends

disconnection; but that’s no longer on

each generation. “Seen at Gucci, Dior, Prada

always have a six-year cycle—two years

trend.” He reminds us that although the cuts

and Versace, these runway styles, inspired

being underground, two years when it is hot

are edgy and inspired by the underground

by David Bowie, are great for the younger

and then two years when the mainstream

style scene, “hair still needs to show a

generation,” Lemay says. “The grunge of the

culture attaches to it and [by then], stylists

strong value of beauty. Adapt these trends to

2000s is different from the 1980s because

are already on to the next trend.”

will be a dominant theme. You want the

56

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

performing artist at Redken and artistic

S

PHOTO: IMAGECOLLECT

Damien Carney notes that capitalizing on

Popular influences on this shorter, grunge

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By Melissa Hill

What you can learn behind the scenes at Salon Magazine’s exclusive holidayinspired cover shoot with Moroccanoil artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero.

By Melissa Hill

S

pending a day at a photoshoot is always an enlightening experience. The work that goes

into creating one great photograph comes from a whole collaborative team—sharing their ideas, experimenting and using their talents to make the best of each style. We spent the day with Moroccanoil artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero, in Montreal, as he and his team shot exclusive looks for the magazine that were inspired by the party season. The styles are also completely accessible for clients in the salon. Here he shares how he did it, plus some of the tips and tricks you can use, too.

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PHOTOS: HAIR: ANTONIO CORRAL CALERO FOR MOROCCANOIL, MAKEUP: NICO GUZMAN, HAIR ASSISTANT: LAURIE DERAPS, STYLING: ISABELLE LONG, PHOTOS: NEIL MOTA (ALL L’ELOI), MODELS: JUSTINE PAQUETTE (NEXT MODELS CANADA) AND KARELLE PARENT (DULCEDO MODEL MANAGEMENT)

Rocker Glam

salonmagazine.ca

On flexibility…out

working When a look isn’t ught it would, the way you tho some back-up be prepared with no matter how ideas. This is true a stylist. Calero long you’ve been s on one of the demonstrated thi mpleting the models. After co to shoot, Calero g look and startin y the images didn’t like the wa He scrapped were appearing. apart and quickly the look, took it one [right] that created another ometimes, was a winner. “S thing, do it I start with some That happened and don’t like it. , step back, today. Don’t panic says. “Put he breathe and go,” ergy into your hands and en a mistake, it. Sometimes, by really create a that’s when you fantastic look.”

On the looks…

create a look, you also need to make sure

“I was inspired by people on the street. I

it works well for blondes, brunettes, all the

wanted to work with textures and blondes,”

models. The more we do it, the better we get.

says Calero. “For the holidays, everyone always

Don’t be afraid to have a fear of failure. It makes

puts hair up. You can put it up, but don’t make

you a better stylist and a better professional.”

it too severe. When you have a beautiful outfit, but keep the hair down and a bit loose and messy, it’s a nice contrast. It doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard.”

On teamwork…

“It’s not just about the person doing the hair,” says Calero. “Everyone brings ideas. It’s good to listen, even if sometimes you don’t like what

On creating the best holiday hair…

they say. Leave your ego somewhere else and

“The hair has to match the personality of the

take [their ideas] into consideration and make the

client. Find out where she is going, what she

best. It’s the whole team that makes it possible.”

is going to be wearing. Everything should have a nice balance in terms of image,” says Calero.

On the key to a successful shoot…

“Prepare a mood board. Know where you’re heading. Get three or four looks, and make

“You have to use the right amount of product,

sure there is a nice transition,” says Calero. “I

because the hair needs to move. And I have

started this shoot with texture. From beginning

to work with the designer and bring his

to end, my focus was on texture. Don’t go

perspective. His ideas and my ideas have to

from texture then make it super sleek. You

marry and match,” says Calero. “When you

won’t have a good transition.”

salonmagazine.ca

▼

On runway styles…

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

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59

Antonio’s faves…

Light: The 1. Moroccanoil t, formulated famous treatmen ndes. especially for blo

lumizing 2. Moroccanoil Vo m middle of Mousse: Apply fro to plump locks. hair to the ends Root Boost: 3. Moroccanoil e. Apply to the Gives great textur y. roots and blow-dr

2.

3.

1.

By-the-Numbers: A Day in the Life Antonio Corral Calero shares his up-close-and-personal New York Fashion Week perspective.

1-2

The number of runway shows the team completes in the

average day.

5 am

The time the day begins. “I always like to get an early start

to my day.”

4

Calero’s keys to a great day—a good cup of coffee, workout,

meditation, plus a phone call home. “I take time to call my family before a show—it’s important to get that moral support from them.”

3 hours before a show the team assembles on-site. “Between styling models and television interviews backstage, it can be a bit stressful,” he says. “However, at the same time, it’s very exciting to be doing what we’re doing.”

10-15

The number of cans of Moroccanoil hairspray the

team goes through per show, depending on the style and the

AN ON-SET TRICK

is Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong. It’s amazing for locking

Many stylists use hairpieces and extensions on the set

styles into place, while maintaining flexible movement in the hair and

of an editorial shoot. This one was no exception. Both

adding beautiful shine.”

extensions and a hairpiece were used on the cover model, although Calero has a tip for making it look as natural as possible. “We used eyeshadow to try and make the roots darker, to create dimension and make it a bit more real,” he says. He used a dark black-brown shadow, applied with a brush and smudged with his fingertips to achieve the effect.

60

number of models. “My number one must-have product backstage

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

13

The average number of hours worked during a typical day

at NYFW.

20 20

The number of stylists working on the creative hair team.

The average number of models per show. “It always depends,”

says Calero. “We do a lot!” He personally does hair for an average of five models per show.

S

salonmagazine.ca

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HM-2699

Hair: Rokk Ebony Artistic Team, Rokk Ebony, Melbourne, Australia Makeup: Kate Fletcher Styling: Bec Cole Photos: Elizabeth Kinnaird

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Classic and unfussy, this work proves that understated hair is utterly beautiful.

BIG TEASE salonmagazine.ca

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Hair: Christine Margossian for L’Oréal Professionnel Artistic Direction: Yvan Babillon and Laure Delvigo – C/O Beauty Full Consulting Makeup: Stéphane Dussart Styling: Etienne Jeanson Photos: Eric Ouaknine

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

R e

y s k c a i e c ch

o R

y ad e a -r ty kes n r a i ta s p ion bob s. i n Th ect um ctio l l n co lati ire p nt d e er f f di

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Clean shapes speak volumes in this Canadian collection.

EvEryday Glamour 66

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Hair: Rocky Vitelli for Farouk Systems, Locale J Salon, Thornhill, Ont. Makeup: Stephanie Zaffino Styling: Dasha, Casa Como Photos: Vimal Pa

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Inspired by French couture, this collection offers a glamorous yet eerie atmosphere.

Hair: Sharon Blain, sharonblain.com Makeup: Rachel Montgomery Styling: Emma Cotterill Photos: Israel Rivera

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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salonmagazine.ca

Haunted Opulence salonmagazine.ca

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Hair: Christopher Deagle, Nobasura Agency and Simone, Vancouver Makeup: Christine Jairamsingh Photos: Trevor Brady

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Rocking it

Raw

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Gray-scale photography reveals the hidden side of beauty. n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3

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Simple, feminine styles make a peaceful statement in this serene collection.

e r o m

s i s s e l To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Hair: Genevieve Collerton, Wild Life Hair, SoGo, Sydney, Australia Makeup: Linda West Styling: Mel McQueen Photos: Danielle Reich

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Hair: Damien Rinaldo, Boris the Cuttery, Adelaide, Australia Makeup: Victoria Baron Styling: Andrew Zumbo Photos: Andrew O’Toole To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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ENIGMA

Sultry and sophisticated, these looks are sure to please for any party.

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Hair and Artistic Direction: Contessa 24, Finalist, Session Hairstylist of the Year, Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Creative Direction: Joe Suarez Makeup: Walter Obal Styling: Nikko Kefalas Photos: Hama Sanders

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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n a m o W y t i C t e e w S e . m o tion c ed llec n i ef n co r nd ssio a e l oo is s c n, in th a b Ur ther e tog

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Hair: Timothy Switzer, Timothy and Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Makeup: Cody Alain Styling: Matthew Chow Photos: Greg Swales

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ALWAYS EN

VOGUE Coiffed and cool is this 2013 NAHA Contemporary Classic finalist collection.

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Hair: Contessa 24, Finalist, Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Makeup: Nicolas Blanchet Photos: Doug McMillan

Steely and sleek, the coifs make an unforgettable statement.

Black Metallic To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Andor Bubelenyi, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Joseph Dellicarpini, Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Saco, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Elan Hair Studio, Winnipeg J’aime Coiffure, Montreal JC Salons, Toronto KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat, Alta.

Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, Ont. Taz Hair Co. Yorkville, Toronto ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Isabelle Baril, Eclectic Salon Spa, St-Eustache, Que. Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Jorge Joao, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, Ont. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-St-Hilaire, Que. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Renn VanDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg MASTER COLOURIST Catherine Allard, Salon Odyssée Le Loft, Montreal, Que. Adriana Balea, Flaunt Boutique, Toronto Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair, Barrie, Ont. Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Industry Hairdressing, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Jessica Van Kuyk, Suki’s, Vancouver CANADIAN COLOURIST Melanie Bourne, JC Salons, Toronto Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanèteHair Coiffure, Montreal Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Kirsten McIntosh, Freelance, Ottawa Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Emma Wolliscroft, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont.

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SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Caylee Augé, Hype Hair Studio, Vancouver Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Kristin Page, Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Jody Kezar, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Amanda Rendell, Studio H, London, Ont. Kimberly Turmel, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Karine Vezina, Olab Coiffure, Montreal

STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Lisa Brandow, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton, Ont. Shelby-Rae Heltay-Pfieffer, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Bailey Hutchinson, Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Courtney Sobko, Studio H, London, Ont. Jaelyn Walker, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Christina Dominelli, Christina Dominelli Salon, Edmonton Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon, Edmonton Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Lance Blanchette, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Matthew Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, B.C. Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Mikka Trista, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Eden Boudreau, Eden B. Hair, Bedford, N.S. Alison Bradbury, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L.

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Elshadai Erbeto, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Jody Kezar, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Amanda Rendell, Studio H, London, Ont. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Lenelle Davis, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Jordon Turner, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style et Couleur, Montreal

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London

HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Duyen Huynh, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Kerri Dawn Jarrett, Salon Reform, Calgary Jason Mellor, Edges Salon & Spa, Calgary Oluwasola Olorunleke, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon MAKEUP ARTIST Julie Coulombe, Freelance, Mississauga, Ont. Katie Foster, Studio H, London, Ont. Craig-Ryan French, CRF Makeup, Toronto Vanessa Parto, Artistry by V, Vancouver Gabriela Soares, So Chiq Studio, Waterloo, Ont. CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Elfi Lemieux, Panache, Montreal Judy Lim, Polish’d Nail Bar, Toronto Karen A. Milla, New Image Skin & Nails, Kitchener, Ont. Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta.

NEW HAIRSTYLIST Lenelle Davis, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Mayumi Grindlay, Felix and Ginger Salon, Caledon, Ont. Shereen Hussein, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. Cassandra Lounsberry, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Eddy Santiago Burgos, Saco, Montreal Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanèteHair Coiffure, Montreal Sara Drolet, Donald Prouxl, Montreal Stephan Lepard, Saco, Montreal Matthew Waldron, Panache, Montreal SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Nikki Denatale, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Brittany Francis, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Chris Pritchard, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina Mariecel Tamayo, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Josie Vilayvanh, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg SALON INTERIOR DESIGN L.A. Coiffure et Spa, LaSalle, Que. Noir Salon & Spa, Ottawa One 2 One Studio, Toronto Pure Self Salon N Spa, Markham, Ont. Storm Hair Group, St. Catharines, Ont. JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Amici Spa Inc., Markham, Ont. Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont.

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salon profile

On the Cutting Edge Growing up, Matt Collins wasn’t exactly the type of guy you’d picture wielding a pair of shears. Yet, by observing his barber, then perfecting his own technique in between visits, that’s exactly how it all began.

y the time he was in high school in Barrie, Ont.,

program. “At Rinaldi’s, the stylists are very technically trained,” explains

Matt Collins had gone from cutting his own hair,

Collins, adding that his experience of working within a family-oriented salon

to giving his classmates regular haircuts. “No

was one that he credits for cultivating his skill. The experience also seems

one really trusted me at first,” says Collins. “But I

to have set the tone for how he and his business partner, Brennen Demelo,

guaranteed that I’d give them $50 cash if I screwed

work with their own team today at Toronto's Brennen Demelo Studio. “For

up their hair.” After a brief one-year stint playing

us, we hire first on attitude and second on skill,” explains Collins. “I think

varsity rugby at university and cutting hair in his

that the right attitude to learn and strive makes the skill fall into place.”

dorm room, plus a little encouragement from his mom, Collins decided to

For Collins, his experience as one of L’Oréal Professionnel's

follow his true passion. While gaining hands-on hair experience at Rinaldi’s

platform artists has not only afforded him accolades, including

Salon in Barrie, Collins also joined Georgian College’s apprenticeship

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Canadian Runway Stylist of the Year—

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B

By Anna Lee Boschetto

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Whether he's behind the scenes or on stage, Matt Collins enjoys the high energy and excitement.

it has also offered the opportunity to work with top-notch stylists, including his business partner.

But

when it comes down to it, Collins believes that, for him, it has been all about investing time, energy and hard work that has allowed him to achieve success in such a demanding industry.

At the same time, he also understands the limitations that more inexperienced stylists face, namely inflexible schedules, that prevent them from pursuing editorial or television work. It’s one of the reasons that he and Demelo support their stylists taking days off from the salon in order to also be a part of photo or television shoots. “It’s tough; most salons won’t give you the freedom to do what you want; but you have to make sacrifices,” says Collins, adding that for the past four years, he had been working seven days a week, between seeing clients in the salon, photoshoots, filming or on stage for L’Oréal Professionnel.

Along with the day-to-day challenges of working in a fast-paced salon environment, Collins’ ability to work in a variety of settings has afforded him the opportunity to be a part of television shows including, Steven and Chris, and, more recently, The Social. Although it may seem that he doesn’t have much downtime—and he doesn’t—it’s the range of work and experiences that Collins has found the most rewarding. “I love the energy and I feel like there’s this adrenaline rush,” says Collins of his multi-faceted career.

Whether it’s the result of his past life as an athlete or his passion for seeking out new challenges, one thing is for sure Collins—is definitely at the top of his game.

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GOLD SPONSORS

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salon business

3 Ways to Attract More Clients Make the most of your next photoshoot with these helpful tips from two veterans.

Although developing your portfolio and submitting collections for award consideration are definitely key reasons for making time for photoshoots, there’s so much more that can be gained from a day spent on set. In fact, according to many industry professionals, the images from a photoshoot can actually be used as an effective marketing tool. Here are three ways that you can attract more clients with your latest collection.

1. Inspire More Referrals Having images from a photoshoot allows your clients to see the full scope of the work you’re capable of offering. “I believe that it pushes them to want to see you and see what you can do for them, as well,” says Joey Marchese, a stylist with Toronto’s bob + paige salon. It’s that inspiration that Tim Kuo, co-owner of Vancouver's Salon Haze, says makes it even easier for your current clients to refer their family and friends. “Having work displayed adds a connection,” says Kuo, who finds that clients are proud to say that their stylist was involved in other projects or has won an award.

2. Expand Your Social Network Like it or not, social media is not going anywhere. That means, if you want to attract a diverse client base, including a younger clientele, then you’ve got to be there. “The more striking the imagery is, the more people will gravitate to it,” says Kuo. “It generates traffic not only in the salon, but also online.”

Showcasing your work online enhances your profile with your current clients, and when they comment, like or share the images, you’re instantly connecting with would-be clients within their network, too.

3. Walk Right In

“The more striking the imagery is, the more people gravitate to it.”

When it comes to finding a location for your next shoot, consider your salon.

—Tim Kuo

photoshoot itself is a great marketing tool because it generates immediate

stylists and make up artist, you’re also sharing fresh ideas with your colleagues, which can also lead them to broadening their clientele. “It brings the salon team back together,” says Marchese. Both Marchese and Kuo agree that the interest from virtually anyone passing by the location. “It gives the clients another way of looking at the salon,” says Marchese, who adds that even prepping for a shoot in the salon has attracted walk-in clients requesting a particular colour or cut. But no matter where your next photoshoot takes you, advance planning is essential. “Shoot before the trend starts,” says Marchese. This enables you to offer maximum inspiration to your clients, no matter what their style.

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text: AnnA Lee Boschetto, photo: meLissA hiLL

Along with bringing in potential new clients, including your photographer, models,

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CONTESSA GALLERY

Contessa 24, Semi-Finalist, Canadian Salon Team of the Year

Co-owner of Glam Salon Boutique in Old Montreal, with Véronique Noraz, Olivier Miotto spearheads a team of highly creative hairstylists who all enjoy doing things a little bit differently.

1

According to Miotto, oils are essential for creating gorgeous sleek, shiny hair.

PHOTOS: HAIR: OLIVIER MIOTTO, GLAM SALON BOUTIQUE, MAKEUP: JULIE CHABOT, JESSICA MANZO, STYLING: YSO, PHOTO: CARL LESSARD, INSPIRATION PHOTO: ISTOCK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: SHU UEMURA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Glam Salon Boutique Colour Goes Comic Con

into place naturally”, says Miotto about this

Winner of the Canadian Salon Team

finalist Contessa collection.

Contessa two years ago, Glam Salon

Neo-retro

Boutique showcased for 2013 its very

The models for this collection, which is

own vision of mangas—inspired by

also partly inspired by cabaret showgirls

contemporary Japanese comics. “We did a

of the 1920s also had to exhibit a strong

lot of tests, and the disconnected sections

personality, “especially because of

and different hair colours are key elements

the washed-out background, which is

of this collection,” says Miotto. “What’s

reminiscent of vintage photography,”

more, it’s a team effort, so we had to keep

explains Miotto. “Their personalities really

everyone’s input exciting. We let the hair fall

had to shine through.”

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“I love the brush on this powder, which brings out my artistic side. It easily replaces spray to create a soft hold.”

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SALON INTERIORS

Pre-reno, the salon had partitions. This open space makes it more inviting.

Details Interior design: Tal Fisher Furniture: Mobilier Plateau Opened in 2005, redesigned in 2010.

Staff 6 stylists

1 esthetician 1 receptionist Website carteblanchecoiffure.com Brands Kevin.Murphy Kérastase Wella Professionals

Incorporating the original m odernstyle chairs he lped minimize additional renovation co sts without co mpromising the overall de sign.

I’ve seen too many whiteon-white salons and I wanted to do exactly the opposite. Black has a luxe feeling that I love.”

–stylist Tal Fisher

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PHOTOS: PAUL A. LAROCQUE

“

A stunning addition to the all-black space, the chandelier was custom-made in Asia, according to Fisher’s specifications.

salonmagazine.ca

e in Montreal was a Carte Blanche Coiffur on Interior Design Sal for list fina a Contess in 2013.

T

Black Code

A family business gets a total makeover.

By Yasmin Grothé

al Fisher is fuelled by high-octane creativity.

air glass spheres that illuminate the matte black walls in this perfectly

Not only is he an accomplished hairstylist—

symmetrical space.

having won the ultra-coveted Canadian Wella

Located a stone’s throw from chic Westmount, in Montreal’s west

Professionals Trend Vision award a few years ago—but he also

end, the quick (and affordable!) makeover has given the salon a lounge

redesigned Carte Blanche Coiffure, his family-owned salon, with a

vibe that’s both cool and inviting. “I wanted the space to have the same

nod to the current sleek and minimalist trend seen in contemporary

look and feel of a boutique hotel lobby. I think I visited every hotel in

interiors. “I love interior design and absolutely everything that relates

Old Montreal looking for inspiration, on top of all of the international

to it,” says Fisher as he points to the chandelier, a cluster of light-as-

architectural magazines I bought!” says Fisher with a smile.

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beauty professional

association

advancing our industry

events

PBA Members get discounts on entering.

COMPETE NAHA Entry Opens Early January 2014 probeauty.org/naha Media Supporter

800.468.2274 (480.281.0424)

Hair by 2013 NAHA Winner Matt Swinney

CA

N H A IRST Y

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CELEBRATING THE ARTISTRY AND SKILL OF THE PROFESSIONAL SALON INDUSTRY

NOR

AWA R D S

years

JULY 13, 2014 MANDALAY BAY RESORT AND CASINO LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

salon events

Eufora Brings International Stylists to Global Connection Details: Eufora’s 2013 Global Connection educational event brought together an international team of hairstyling superstars together to inspire stylists. The show included spectacular presentations by Dee Fortier, Eufora’s international artistic director, Neil Smith, English Hair and Beauty Awards 2013 Women’s Stylist of the Year, Jay Fata, who led a special men’s presentation for this burgeoning market, and more.

When & Where: September 15 - 16 in Los Angeles Highlights: Congratulations to all the winners at Eufora’s Stylist of the Year Awards, including Ontario stylists, Shereen Hussein, Deeva Hair, Kitchener; Alannah Tobin, Michael’s Hair Body and Mind, Mississauga; and Michael’s Hair Body and Mind, Mississauga and Michael’s Hair Body and Mind (Team Collaboration category).

PHOTOS: Salon Magazine STAFF

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salon events

Feather’s commitment to quality design and superior performance has made this razor the standard of the beauty and barber industry.

It is the top choice among professional stylists around the world.

Metro Beauty Supply welcomes Davines’ Artistic Director Angelo Seminara Details: Hosted at Metro Beauty Supply’s educational facility owner, Frank Miraglia welcomed stylists and introduced Davines’ CEO and managing director Paolo Braguzzi, who offered a corporate perspective. including an overview of the company's sustainable beauty commitment. Through Davines’ Sustainable Beauty Day, a charitable initiative at salons where customers can receive a cut and styling for a donation amount, the company has partnered with The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation, an environmental charity that supports the social sustainability of communities worldwide through tree planting.

When & Where: September 22 in Woodbridge, Ont. Highlights: Encouraging stylists to experiment with the colour techniques used in Davines’ Mother of Pearl Collection, artistic director Angelo Seminara showed how simple styling, such as plaits, can be used to create sophisticated looks. Along with an explanation of the colour formulation and application, from colour ambassador Edoardo Paludo, Seminara’s session culminated in a spectacle of innovative runway styles.

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Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply hosts Kevin.Murphy Business Education Event Details: Stylists spent their Sunday soaking up insightful sales and marketing tips for the salon at Join.Me, a Kevin.Murphy learning event that was offered through Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply. With guest speakers, including Sue Remes, a sales and marketing consultant with more than 25 years of experience in the beauty industry, and Tim Abney, executive Style.Master and Kevin.Murphy educator, stylists explored best practices for enhancing the sales opportunities within their salons.

When & Where: September 15 in Toronto Highlights: Remes provided marketing strategies and thought-provoking business questions for stylists to bring back to their salon teams, while Abney taught the keen crowd how to incorporate the business acumen into day-to-day salon operation.

PhoToS: Salon Magazine STAff

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SALON EVENTS

Aveda’s Catwalks for Water Brings Style to Recycling Details: Teams of hairdressers and makeup artists from Aveda concept salons put their ingenuity to the test at Aveda’s Catwalks for Water contest. Teams created looks using only recycled or discarded materials. Salon Magazine staff was part of the judging panel and finalists took home Aveda Master Jam tickets, education vouchers and FixxRx tools.

When & Where: September 15 in Toronto Highlights: Proceeds from ticket sales and fundraising efforts went to Aveda’s Earth Month partner WaterCan, a Canadian charity dedicated to assisting in the global accessibility of clean water within some of the poorest nations worldwide. Congratulations to the winners!

PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA

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Canadians dazzle at Haute Coiffure Française show Details: Held in partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel, this year marked the biggest turn out that Haute Coiffure Française has ever hosted. For the first time, Team Canada, which included 57 artists, was invited to lead a show featuring three segments indicative of Canadian natural heritage including Winter Frost, Petroleum and Metallic Water.

When & Where: September 15 in Paris, France Soundbite: “HCF president Francis L. Rhod was extremely proud of the breathtaking presentation. Art direction duo Pascal & Jérémie created the perfect canvas to showcase such incredible hair,” says Sylvie Livet of Haute Coiffure Française, Canada.

PHOTOS COURTESY DiDiER ADAM

Visit SalonMagazine.ca for details on the latest educational events.

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13-10-03 9:51 AM

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More For Men

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Congratulations and good luck to Kirsten McIntosh, a freelance hairstylist based in Ottawa, who is a finalist at the 31st Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall in London, England.

2

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Pureology marketing director, Sheila Morin, Matrix general

experience. With the first location in RBC Centre of

New Distribution •

general manager, Mathieu Bouchard, L’Oréal Professionnel &

& Colt franchise offers an upscale barbershop

plans are to open a second Toronto location.

their brands. The changes at L’Oréal Professionnel & Pureology include Vincent Lemieux, L’Oréal Professionnel & Pureology

atering to well-groomed urban men, the Taylor

Toronto’s PATH, a popular underground walkway,

L’Oréal Professionnel announces new appointments among

manager, and Jack Ingraham, Redken marketing director.

5

Partners in Generosity Sexy Hair is partnering with Look Good Feel Better, a nonprofit organization that helps women undergoing cancer

ESP Salon Sales announces distribution of Schwarzkopf

treatment cope with appearance-related side-effects, for

Professional (SKP) in Alberta. For more than 20 years, ESP

a cut-a-thon called Caring is Sexy. The annual charity cut

has carried SKP lines in Manitoba and Saskatchewan, and the

was held in October across the United States and at eight

Alberta expansion currently includes three stores.

salons in Ontario.

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2013-10-08

11:35 AM

Urban Decor Turnkey Operation Low Start Up Costs Growing Niche Market 1-877-266-2066 www.mvpmenssalon.com

SALON PROFE S SIONAL S

HELPING WOMEN FACE CANCER HEAD ON Your gift of $10 will provide a CHEMO CAP for a woman with cancer.

Help Plant Our Urban Forests

Donate now at lookgoodfeelbetter.ca AGNES, CANCER SURVIVOR

“While I was going through my cancer treatment, I was determined to face cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good Feel Better I got the help I needed.”

Free 2-hour cosmetic and hair workshops for women with cancer.

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 22 Issue 15 salonmagazine.ca

This fundraiser in partnership with and

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LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER IS A PROGRAM OF THE CANADIAN COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION FOUNDATION | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

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SALON LAST LOOK

Celebrate the Season in Style Make every business opportunity count by giving your clients an added touch of holiday glamour.

Percentage of business that comes from women, according to David Raccuglia, creative director at MensDept and owner of Chicago-based Art & Science salons, which also means that during the holiday season, many are likely shopping for the guys in their life.

“

I am a glamour girl through and through.

I believe in the glamorous life and I live one.

”

—Lady Gaga

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—Rossa Jurenas, platform artist and educator for Schwarzkopf Professional For more tips on organizing award-worthy phototshoots, check out “Picture Perfect” on p. 50.

HOLIDAY PLANNING Three ways to keep your salon business booming throughout the festive season.

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ADVANCE BOOKING Ask your clients about any special events they will be attending during the holiday season and offer to pre-book appointments to ensure they’ll always have a polished look.

BE MORE SOCIAL Get clients inspired by posting your best holiday hair looks and hair inspiration on social media outlets and encourage other stylists at your salon to do the same. You may be surprised how quickly the word gets around!

GIVE BACK Charity events may be interested in having a salon sponsor an on-the-spot styling area; which enables you to give back while connecting with potential clients.

PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

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“Fashion styling should be kept simple. You might be inspired by the colours in a scarf or a beautiful necklace, so work with that.”

salonmagazine.ca

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2013 Joico® Laboratories, A division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe Claire QC H9R 5N3 HAIR Damien Carney COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders joico.com ©

master the art of