Ce 20lebr Ye ati ar ng s!
picture perfect A step-by-step guide to
Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0
organizing your next photoshoot
7
top hair stories from 2013
All that glitters spotlight on...Cut and colour
predictions for 2014…Glowing makeup and nails… Marketing to men for the holidays… Plus, the 25th Annual Contessa Awards Finalists!
november+december 13 $5 salonmagazine.ca
NEW CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER OFFER YOUR CLIENT A HIGH FASHION COVERAGE SOLUTION
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CAN WIN THE STYLE MASTER 2014 2.500 attendees
from all over the world
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international
Stylings created for the Style Master 2013 International Contest Ekaterina Khloptsova 3rd Finalist. Aura beauty Salon. Chelyabinsk, Russia
Cliff CK Cheung Global Winner, Indulgence Salon. Hong Kong
Alexander Callegari 2nd Finalist, Hairstudio Salon. Lima, PerĂş
1 Global winner
Cliff CK Cheung, Global Winner: “For me the Style Master International Contest is the best competition on this level.” Alexander Callegari, 2nd Finalist: “This contest gives us a platform to present our work as artists.” Ekaterina Khloptsova, 3rd Finalist: “This competition is a magnificent professional and personal experience.”
Participate: www.stylemasters.com/contest
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Available in salons worldwide.
EFFORTLESS VOLUME ExpEriEncE body, lift and movEmEnt. introducing thE volumE collEction by moroccanoil. www.moroccanoil.com
NEW! CHARMED COLLECTION Turn on the sparkle and charm this holiday season. Limited edition CND Shellac™ and Additives transform ordinary into ornamental. Let the celebrations begin. Discover the new Holiday Collection and matching VINYLUX™ shades at a store near you.
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WHAT'S YOUR COLOUR?
Find your perfect match from over 60 fabulous shades.
Cream Puff #108
Studio White #151
Lavishly Loved #126
Negligee #132
Romantique #142
Beau #103
Grapefruit Sparkle #118
Strawberry Smoothie #150
Cake Pop #135
Gotcha #116
Pink Bikini #134
Hot Pop Pink #121
Tutti Frutti #155
Hot Chilis #120
Tropix #154
Lobster Roll #122
Electric Orange #112
Hollywood #119
Rouge Red #143
Wildfire #158
Red Baroness #139
Scarlet Letter #145
Burnt Romance #161
Decadence #111
Bloodline #106
Tinted Love #153
Masquerade #130
Dark Lava #110
Married to Mauve #129
Vexed Violette #156
Lilac Longing #125
Grape Gum #117
Purple Purple #138
Rock Royalty #141
Regally Yours #140
Daring Escape #109
Azure Wish #102
Water Park #157
Blue Rapture #162
Seaside Party #146
Midnight Swim #131
Limeade #127
Gilded Pleasure #115
Serene Green #147
Pretty Poison #137
Powder My Nose #136
Impossibly Plush #123
Svelte Suede #124
Rubble #144
Sugared Spice #152
Faux Fur #113
Fedora #114
Night Glimmer #160
Bicycle Yellow #104
Locket Love #128
Steel Gaze #149
Silver Chrome #148
Cityscape #107
Asphalt #101
Overtly Onyx #133
Dark Dahlia #159
Black Pool #105
november+december.13 salonmagazine.ca features 50
Picture Perfect
52
best ’dos of 2013
54
stYle sirens
58
A step-by-step photoshoot guide.
A look back at who and what made the headlines in hair.
Industry professionals predict upcoming hair trends for 2014.
rocKer glam A behind-the-scenes look at Salon Magazine’s exclusive holiday-inspired cover shoot with Moroccanoil artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero.
62
collections
81
canadian HairstYlist of tHe Year awards
Rokk Ebony Artistic Team, Christine Margossian, Rocky Vitelli, Sharon Blain, Christopher Deagle, Genevieve Collerton, Damien Rinaldo, Martin Hillier, Timothy Switzer, Frank Cini
Check out the list of this year’s 25th Annual
Contessa Awards’ finalists!
on our cover: Photographed exclusively for Salon Magazine Hair: Antonio Corral Calero for Moroccanoil Hair assistant: Laurie Deraps (l’Eloi) Makeup: Nico Guzman (l’Eloi) Styling: Isabelle Long (l’Eloi) Photo: Neil Mota (l’Eloi) Model: Justine Paquette (Next Models Canada)
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sHaron blain, beecroft, australia
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18 Limited-Edition Shades INCLUDING 6 NEW LIQUID SAND™ SHADES AND REAL WHITE GOLD AND SILVER LEAF TOP COAT
COLORS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM: My Favorite Ornament*, All I Want for Christmas (is OPI), Cute Little Vixen, Underneath the Mistletoe, In My Santa Suit*, Visions of Love*, Warm Me Up*, Wonderous Star*, All Sparkly and Gold*, Sleigh Ride for Two, Ski Slope Sweetie, I Snow You Love Me, Silent Stars Go By**, Baby Please Come Home**, Make Him Mine**, It’s Frosty Outside**, Emotions**, Kiss Me at Midnight** Pure 18K white gold & silver leaf Top Coat
All I Want for Christmas Ch hristtmas for is s... is...
HOLIDAY BY OPI Find us on
Mariah is wearing Cute Little Vixen * Available in GelColor by OPI for a limited time. ** Features OPI Liquid Sand™ technology.
Call 800.341.9999 ©2013 OPI Products Inc.
regularS
Studio mekkaSchwarzkopf profeSSional
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18 20
editor’S letter
22
Salonmagazine.ca
25
hairlineS
The Pros on Set p. 25; Colour Reaction p. 25; Total Radiance p. 25; Four Luxe Additions to Moroccanoil Body p. 26; Bye-bye Frizz p. 26; New and Improved p. 26; Looking Back: Shades EQ Turns 25 p.28; Makings of Greatness p. 28; Do the Wave p. 30; Cool Comfort p. 30; Turn Up the Volume! p. 30; Holiday Hair Inspiration from Sassoon p. 32; Then and Now: François Prieur p. 32; Tolbox: KQC Professional p. 32; Green Corner: The Joy of Doing Good p. 34; Nice Tool Kit p. 34; Creative Stroke p. 34; Makeup Menagerie p. 36; Nails: Sparkle, Sparkle p. 38; Nails: Hit the Road p. 40; Nails: Nailing Holiday Glamour p. 42; Colour: Vivid & Vibrant p. 44; Men’s: 9 Holiday Promotions to Try for Male Clients p. 46; Editor’s Picks p. 48.
82
profile
On the Cutting Edge
86
buSineSS
3 Ways to Attract More Clients
87
conteSSa gallery
64
rokk ebony artiStic team, rokk ebony, melbourne, auStralia
chriStine margoSSian for l’oréal profeSSionnel
38
publiSher’S note This month at SalonMagazine.ca
Glam Salon Boutique, Contessa 24, Semi-finalist, Canadian Salon Team of the Year
dazzling nail launcheS
36
88
interiorS
Carte Blanche Coiffure, Montreal
91
eventS
96
Scoop
98
laSt look
makeup menagerie
16
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carte blanche coiffure, montreal
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NEW for rebellious hair
LISS UNLIMITED
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Instrumental test: shampoo + masque + smoothing cream vs. classical shampoo.
To get Liss Unlimited in your salon, contact your L’Oréal Professionnel business consultant or call 1 800 361-1861.
EDITOR’S LETTER
ARE YOU LOOKING FOR A DOCTOR?
SEARCH THE BEAUTY FINDER AT ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM! Browse our professional directory for doctors and high-end skincare products across Canada!
Feel the Excitement
G
litz , glam, and inspiration—and maybe even a few tears, it’s all an integral part of what makes a photoshoot come to life. For me, one of the best parts of my job is the
opportunity to be a part of the behind-the-scenes happenings on set. In my experience, it’s often what happens before the photographer begins clicking away that is just as incredible as the final images. From hair and makeup to fashion selections and the stylist’s final touch-ups, watching the transformation of a fresh-faced model into
THE
BEA F UTY
IND
ER
FIND DOC P SKIN ROFES TORS A CAR SION ND E ACR A OSS PRODU L CAN C ADA TS !
SEA
RCH
NOW
!
glamorous rock star—like the one on this month’s cover—is nothing short of magic. But as many of you know from your experience with editorial or competition photoshoots, a successful day on-set not only requires an incredibly talented team, but a highly organized and wellco-ordinated schedule in the months, weeks and days leading up to the shoot. For some stylists, especially those just starting out, the idea of embarking on a photoshoot may seem a bit overwhelming. That’s why, on page 50, you’ll find an easy-to-follow guide that gives you the tips and advice you need, from monthly planning to dealing with a shoestring budget, straight from the pros who’ve been there. Although I’ve had the behind-the-scenes experience many times, my editor’s shot at the top of this page was my first time in front of the camera. From my hair and makeup to working my best smile without blinking, it was all nothing short of pure excitement. In the weeks and days leading up to this year’s Contessa Awards Gala, it’s a similar excitement that I imagine many of you are feeling. After seeing the stunning entries to this year’s Contessa Awards, then congratulating some of the finalists—you’ll find a complete list on page 81—I’m looking forward to meeting you at the gala, in Toronto on November 10. Get set for a spectacular night, and best of luck to all of the finalists!
Contact Megan at megan@elevatemagazine.com Anna Lee Boschetto
facebook.com/ElevateMagazine twitter.com/elevatemagazine elevatemagazine.com 18
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Editor
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
Are you a Doctor in Canada? Do you want to be a part of ELEVATE’s Beauty Finder?
Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca
new! Pu re C re a t i v i t y. Pu re Ar t i s t r y. U n l i m i te d Po s s i bi l i te s ! Š2013 RUSK 13AF145610 call 800.USE.RUSK for more information www.facebook.com/ruskhaircare
@ruskhaircare
AVAILABLE AT:
publisher’s note issn 1197-1495 volume 22 issue 15
s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a
editor
Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca editor-in-chief (on LeAve)
Melissa hill
group Art director
gillian tsintziras 416.869.3131 ext.106 gillian@salonmagazine.ca editor-in-chief (french)
Yasmin grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssociAte editor
valerie Lam 416.869.3131 ext.119 valerie@salonmagazine.ca onLine editor
Jillian Wood 416.869.3131 ext.112 jillian@salonmagazine.ca
Sustaining Your Passion for Beauty
H
designer
stephanie Macdonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca copY editor
Jennifer d. foster contriButor
chris tsintziras group puBLisher
Laura dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca AssociAte puBLisher
Jade Bateman 416.869.3131 ext.120 jade@salonmagazine.ca
ow many people in your life can truly say that they are actually passionate about what they do for a living? By my guess, anyone working in a creative field would
most likely rank the zest they have for their work pretty high. In the salon industry, we hear a lot about passion and it’s really the fuel that drives so many people to take their craft to the next level. After recently connecting with two enthusiastic professionals who share a true joy for beauty, I am reminded of the wave of excitement that can inspire and encourage
senior Accounts MAnAger
samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 samantha@salonmagazine.ca Account executive
Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca production MAnAger
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Karren han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca circuLAtion MAnAger
target Audience Management inc. t. 905.729.1288 f. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca executive Business AdMinistrAtor
candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca
professionals within this dynamic industry. At the Eufora Global Connection in Los Angeles, owner Don Bewley (above)—who isn’t your typical manufacturer—opened the show with such heartfelt gratitude for his salons and distributors, that he actually got emotional. But it wasn’t until I saw him having a blast cutting hair on stage with his two buddies that I realized Don’s dedication to his craft. Put a pair of shears in his hands and it’s easy to see that hairstyling is not only his passion, but it’s also in Don’s DNA. Also, at Metro Beauty Supply Academy, I had the pleasure of attending an event featuring Davines’ artistic director, Angelo Seminara. As British Hairdresser of the Year in 2012, Angelo is today’s superstar—a true industry professional. Not only was his work inspiring, but he also spoke with great affection about his view of hairstyling on a very organic level. Speaking candidly, Angelo shared his thoughts about the ability that hairstylists have to transform people’s lives, underscoring the reality that it truly is very important work! From the latest holiday hair trends to glamorous collections, in this
chAirMAn
Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt to the chAirMAn
pam fulford
vice-president & West coAst editor
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issue of Salon Magazine you’ll find plenty of ways to keep your excitement for hair, beauty and style soaring to new heights. So, tell me, what are you doing to spark you own passion or inspire it within your salon team?
Laura Dunphy Publisher
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INJECT RICHER, BOLDER COLORS INSIDE. FEATURING THE
COLOR INJECTION
SYSTEM ODS2
A 100% MORE EFFICIENT COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM!
NEW! PRECISION PERMANENT COLOR - ZERO AMMONIA
Available at: CosmoProf Beauty, International Beauty, Maritime Beauty, and Star Bédard *112 participants across Canada responded to the Club Matrix survey from July 17 to August 14, 2013.
WE LISTENED & THIS IS WHY YOU* LOVE COLORINSIDER: Ultimate shine No ammonia No odor No itchy scalp
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Get Contessa tickets before they sell out! With the Contessa Awards Gala on November 10 in Toronto, you need to get your hands on these hot tickets, pronto! It’s a show you won’t want to miss. For show updates, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/SalonMag), Twitter (twitter.com/Salon_Magazine) or watch the live webcast on our website!
MOST-READ STORIES
View the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year finalists’ collections on SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa! SEE ONLINE How One Salon Saved $14,000 in Costs
COLLECTIONS from John Gillespie, Orb See our editors’
14 Cool Runway Looks Made From…Rubbish
gift picks that they think you’ll
Hair and Beauty, Sonia Provost, and more!
enjoy giving (or receiving) this
6 Questions with Ted Gibson
TALK TO US! 22
EXCLUSIVE
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holiday season on SalonMagazine.ca.
TOP PHOTO: CONTESSA 25, FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, ANDOR BUBELENYI, FUSS ART OF HAIR, EDMONTON, MAKEUP: PACO PUERTAS, STYLING: CARY TAUBEN, PHOTO: LEDA & ST-JACQUES, COLLECTION PHOTO: HAIR: JOHN GILLESPIE AND CATHERINE SCOBIE, JOHN GILLESPIE, PERTH, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, STYLING: CLARE FRITH , PHOTO: JACK EAMES
Download Salon Magazine’s App. Same great magazine. Now in your pocket.
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Sebastian Introduces
NEW! SHINE SHAKER and TEXTURE MAKER At Sebastian we believe the most fearless creativity lies where opposite worlds come together. Embrace the inspiring style power of the combination of opposites with Sebastian two-sided styling combo: Texture and Shine
COMING JANUARY Find your nearest salon at WWW.SEBASTIANPROFESSIONAL.COM
www.facebook.com/SebastianProCanada Š2013 Procter & Gamble Inc., Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved
Thicker Fuller-looking Hair IT’S ALL WE DO
ANTI-AGING & THINNING HAIR EXPERTS
REAL SOLUTIONS WITH ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY
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30-DAY STARTER KITS | SHAMPOOS & CONDITIONERS | HEALTHY HAIR TREATMENTS VOLUMIZING & THICKENING STYLING | HAIR THICKENING FIBERS For info call 1.800.BOSLEY1 www.BosleyPro.com
©2013 Bosley, Inc. | Beverly Hills, CA 90212 | All Rights Reserved. | Printed for Scientific Hair Research, LLC. *Bosley, Inc Doctors recommend Bosley Professional Strength products in Bosley, Inc offices.
WE PROUDLY SUPPORT
www.beautybus.org
HAIRLINES NEWS
COLOUR REACTION
THE PROS ON SET
Absolute 3 offers a nonallergic colour line.
The OSiS+ Session Label line by Schwarzkopf Professional offers five new products to get stylists ready for all the carefully executed looks—and unexpected surprises—at the photoshoot: OSiS+ Session Label Flexible Hold Hairspray, Strong Hold Hairspray, Salt Spray, Silk Shine Cream and Molding Paste. Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks artist Joey Marchese from Toronto’s bob+paige salon shares his favourite ways to use the Session Label line.
1.
Using the Strong Hold Hairspray, I am able to set a style in place for the perfect photo and then manipulate it into
choices to clients with sensitive
another look without ruining my finish. Also, the Molding Paste allows me endless reinvention of any style.
2. 3.
Colourists can confidently recommend protectant colour
The Salt Spray gives me a boost of texture with a workable finish so that I still have control of the look. To give a look a smooth, shiny finish without creating a greasy or overburdening effect, I pick the Silk Shine Cream.
scalps and allergies with Lisap Canada’s Absolute 3 line, which is free of PPD and resorcinol—the culprits of allergic reactions to colour. Also, the formula’s technology, Anti-Age Microemulsion Complex system, allows for improved colour penetration by controlling the colour molecule size when mixed
PHOTOS: COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL,THINKSTOCK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS
with peroxide, resulting in deeper, richer and longerlasting results.
Total Radiance BioSilk Color Therapy offers seven hair-care products for a variety of colour clients. The line includes sulphate-free shampoo for all hair types; shampoo for blondes that is made with violet-based ingredients; moisturizing conditioner; leavein treatment infused with maracuja oil and reparative intensive mask. Formulated with VibraRiche blend, Color Therapy prolongs the intensity and radiance of colour while enhancing the touchable shine factor.
salonmagazine.ca
n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
salon
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hairlines news
Four Luxe Additions to Moroccanoil Body
Bye-bye Frizz
Kenra Smooth eliminates up to 99 per cent of curl and frizz after the first use, while protecting hair from damage—plus there is no downtime for clients, so they don’t have to wait many days before resuming their activities such as exercising or swimming. Compliant with regulatory agencies in the United States and Long hailed as an elixir for supple, nourished skin and hair, argan oil is one of the hottest
abroad, Kenra Smooth also includes an easy-to-
ingredients to look for today. The argan oil-infused Moroccanoil Body collection adds Body Butter,
use tool for precise, drip-free application, which
with a concentrated body cream enriched with a vitamin and protein blend that won’t leave
saves time and eliminates product waste. The
greasy residue; Shower Gel, offering a mild formula to restore skin’s optimal moisture balance;
Kenra Smooth Anti-Frizz after-care collection,
Shimmering Body Oil, which revives dull skin; and Dry Body Oil, which is made with a weightless
is also available, prolonging the superior shine
formula that absorbs quickly into skin and improves overall skin texture and tone.
and smoothness.
New and Improved The reformulation and repackaging of TIGI Catwalk and Bedhead Dumb Blonde lines offer next-generation styling benefits to a range of hair types. top styling lines. Catwalk Oatmeal and Honey Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask can be used daily to smooth and moisturize dry, damaged hair. Treat your blondes to Bedhead Colour Combat Dumb Blonde shampoo and conditioner, which strengthen hair and fight colour fading and sulphatefree Catwalk Fashionista Violet Shampoo and Conditioner that reduces brassiness and are also ideal for highlighted and non-pigmented hair. Then return life to clients’ fine, flat hair with Catwalk Your Highness Elevating Shampoo and Conditioner, which prevent static and fly-aways while adding volume and moisture.
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photos: chris tsintziras, courtesy kenra,tigi
Update your salon shelves with the newest from TIGI’s
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
VOILÀ IS A STORY OF PERSEVERANCE AND SUCCESS, OF TIRELESS SEARCHING, OF FOCUS ON DETAIL, OF ITALIAN-MADE QUALITY AND STYLE. THE STORY OF A PRODUCT THAT HAS BEEN ON THE PROFESSIONAL SALON MARKET FOR MORE THAN 30 YEARS AND CONTINUES TO EVOLVE AND ANTICIPATE THE FUTURE TODAY. VOILÀ SPEAKS THE LANGUAGE OF COLOR AND HAS TRANSLATED IT SCIENTIFICALLY TO OFFER AN INNOVATIVE CUSTOMIZED COLORING SERVICE. ASK YOUR SALES REPRESENTATIVE TODAY. KINGDOM BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. BC 1-800-738-8666
ESP SALON SALES, AB, SK, MB 1-800-667-2566
VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. ON 1-800-465-7965
H. CHALUT, QC 1-800-363-2525
BROTHERS BEAUTY SUPPLY, NB 1-888-738-4555
HAIRLINES NEWS
Looking Back: Shades EQ Turns 25
In celebration of the anniversary of Redken’s popular demi-permanent colour line. A Unique Story A go-to choice in so many salons, Redken Shades EQ has endured the test of time and evolving trends, from Debra Messing’s “commercial copper” in Will and Grace to today’s pop-shock red in divas, like Rihanna. “The unique story of Shades EQ is the acid pH formulation: no alkaline or ammonia derivatives, which minimizes the swelling in the hair cuticle and maintains the strength and structure of hair,” reflects Terry Ritcey, director of education/events at Redken Canada and former salon owner and stylist. “Grey coverage is still the top reason why clients choose colour. But the number one reason clients do not want to colour their hair is because they believe it will damage it. Shades EQ answers both issues with our formula.” Fashion-forward Evolution Always designed to be a gentle and versatile colour solution that could refresh, correct and glaze, Shades EQ evolved from the liquid Gloss to Cream when cream application became the stylist’s preferred medium and allowed for more control in creative work. “Cream also gives deeper, richer and denser colour results, such as the bold trend colours we see on
Debra Messing’s “commercial copper”and Rihanna’s pop-shock red
pop and rock stars today. Shades EQ has progressed with fashion,” says Ritcey, such as the most recent Cover Plus line, a brightening colour conditioning cream that gives hair the indemand, balayage, sun-kissed effect.
MAKINGS OF GREATNESS
Most famous for the CHI flat iron and BioSilk Silk Therapy line, the creator of Farouk Systems, Farouk Shami, has penned his life story in American by Choice. From his arrival to the United States in 1965 with $71 to his name to running for governor of Texas in 2009, Shami’s story is not only about the billion-dollar hair-care and cosmetic company he founded, but it also offers a modern perspective on the state of the American dream and an honest look at what it’s like to build a progressive haircare business. The book also includes photos of Shami with legendary men Donald Trump, Vidal Sassoon and the King of Jordan.
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PHOTOS: IMAGECOLLECT, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS
Farouk Shami’s autobiography tells an unconventional success story.
salonmagazine.ca
COLOR CORRECTION for COLOR PERFECTION wellness beauty collection 100% vegan
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hairlines news
cool comfort A must-have soothing routine.
Winter’s blustery cold days and nights that can cause havoc on your skin are right around the
Do the Wave Matrix Opti.Effects
introduces a wavy hair shaping system that respects hair integrity.
corner. Treat clients’ skin to a well-deserved pampering routine by stocking your retail space with Malibu C Ultra Body Lotion. This 100 per cent vegan formula delivers optimal thirstquenching moisturizers that soften dehydrated skin. With a botanical blend of wellness ingredients such as olive oil, organic aloe, as well as a super-hydrating trio containing sesame
runways and is super easy to maintain. “Straight hair is a trend that’s 15 years old,” says Matrix
seed oil, shea butter and sweet almond oil,
lead educator, Roch Lemay. “There’s a generation of clients who have never seen anything
the light fragrance of orange and vanilla bean
but straight hair—now, they will want texture.” Give clients another reason to love your salon
essential oils is a welcoming touch for the cool
services with the new Opti.Effects by Matrix, an innovative hair-shaping technology that offers
months. Although rich, Ultra Body Lotion is
customizable curls and waves, using two different wave patterns with the same wrap.
quickly absorbed and leaves no greasy, tacky
Opti.Effects reshapes the hair and is formulated with neutral pH to work closer to hair’s natural
residue—which makes it ideal to finish manis
state and does not aggressively swell the hair shaft and cuticle.
and pedis for clients on the go.
Turn up The Volume! Give clients sexy, gravity-defying, voluminous hair. Answer the desire of fine-haired clients for fullness and volume with the new Volumifique by Kérastase. Made with Système Ampliflex Technology that reinforces the root and thickens the fibre, hair is lifted from roots to ends with lightweight texture. The line includes a complete hair-care regimen: first, cleanse hair with Bain Volumifique, then treat fine hair with Gelée Volumifique Rinse-Out and, finally, prime hair into styles with Mousse Volumifique and Spray Volumifique.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
photos: courtesy matrix,thinkstock, chris tsintziras
Clients can’t get enough beachy waves—that modern, wearable style that’s ruled this year’s
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
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HAIR.DO & Eyes Receive the limited edition KM.EYES compact on the house by purchasing POWDER.PUFF & HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY. Part of our Holiday collection, this gift pack includes all the essentials for a night out!
hairlines news
Holiday Hair Inspiration from Sassoon Help your client stand out at that holiday party with expert insight from Sassoon Toronto creative director, Lorraine McAndrew, and colour director, John Beeson.
1. For a beautiful, effortless look, give clients a wearable cut for the day that can be easily transitioned into an evening party look with a quick blowout or loose curl.
2. Start with a great classic cut, such as a bob with textured ends. Whether it’s a blunt or softer edge, the texture will quickly add
Trending: Three fall/ winter 2013 Cut and Styling Secrets.
dramatic flair.
3. Take cues from Constructivist (above left), a look from Sassoon’s fall/winter 2013 collection, with its minimalist, modern hints of
Plus, go to SalonMagazine.ca for your chance to win a course at the Toronto Sassoon Academy.
colour. Place hues in subtle bands of muted tones, moving from dark to light and then to dark once again.
Toolbox KQC Professional HyPerion Dual ioniC Dryer “The lightweight [tool] doesn’t strain my wrist during a long keratin treatment, and the long cord gives me the freedom to move everywhere. In my 17 years of experience as a hairstylist, these are the features I’ve wanted in a hairdryer.” — Min Hee McKenna, Min Hee Style Salon, Vancouver
Nov+Dec 1997
Salon Magazine Celebrates 20! Then and Now: Holiday Chic Stylist: François Prieur, Swizzlesticks Salon/ Spa, Calgary
Style like a sleuth with the lightweight and quiet motor.
The Look: Clean lines, pulled back off the face and backcombed with maximum height added at the crown. “I had just learned this technique and was inspired by it,” says Prieur.
Move without restraint using the extra long 3.5 metre cord.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
Then: At the time, Prieur had just joined Civello at Toronto’s Rosedale location. With 15 years of experience, Prieur was looking to further his career and do some editorial work. In 2002 he relocated to Calgary, where he is with Swizzlesticks Salon/Spa. Now: As a director at Swizzlesticks he is responsible for apprentice education and believes that ongoing education is key for stylists at every level. In fact, Prieur says that even he’s “always keeping up with education.”
photos: courtesy sassoon, chris tsintziras
Choose between positive or negative ions: positive ions will open hair cuticles for easier styling, while negative ions promote faster drying speed by breaking apart water molecules.
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
“shearling darling, you know I like to shake things up in winter.”
winter collection 2013
parka perfect
warm & toasty turtleneck
shearling darling
toggle to the top
sable collar
Get obsessed at facebook.com/essiecanada mind your mittens
America’s nail salon expert. Since 1981. 1-877-309-8619 www.essie.ca
hairlines news
green corner
The Joy of Doing gooD Aveda helps fight climate change in festive ways.
The holiday season is not only about gift giving and sharing lavish feasts with friends and loved ones, but it also welcomes the opportunity to reconnect with our sense of community. Aveda, a leader in environmental responsibility, and the first beauty company to receive the Cradle-to-Cradle certification for its commitment to sustainable products, is
Sexy Hair launches a line of professional tools.
making waves once again with gift sets that come beautifully
Providing salons with a
pre-packaged in festive, handmade lokta paper from Nepal.
complete styling package,
For the last six years, Aveda has purchased the lokta bark
the styling line Sexy Hair
paper that dresses its gift sets from the Himalayan Bio-Trade
adds two professional
papermaking co-operative in Nepal. Ninety-one per cent of
tools: a hair dryer and flat
the papermakers are women, and income from papermaking
iron. The black ceramic
helps people support their families and communities in ways
titanium hair dryer utilizes
that were otherwise unimaginable.
ionic technology to create
A total of 2.400 families can buy food and clothing, repair their homes, send their children to school – essentially, plan for the future. More than 4,900 people are hired to make more than 1,400,000 sheets of paper for the special Aveda gift sets over the course of the partnership. And because it protects 34,000 acres of forest, this special holiday program also fights climate change.
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
volume and prevent thermal damage. The ceramic flat iron heats up to 450°C and uses titanium plates to seal in moisture and control static and frizz for a shiny finish.
Creative Stroke Bring out your playful artist side with a pop of temporary vibrant colour from Structure Pigment Pencils, available in Purple Velvet, Fashion Fuchsia and Blue Cheer. The pencils glide on easily for all hair types and wash out after one shampoo. Try them out to achieve three different effects:
1.
Adjust the colour intensity by applying Pigment Pencils onto damp hair,
2.
Smudge Pigment Pencils onto hair before working in a gel, such as Structure
3.
Set the vibrant colour by spraying Structure Finish Instant Hold Working
followed by a blow-dry for a softer effect, or directly on dry hair for bold looks.
Control Hard Hold Gel, for a cool and urbane style.
Spray onto hair after applying Pigment Pencils.
photos: chris tsintziras, sexy hair, structure
Three ways to experiment with new hair-colouring pencils.
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Nice Tool Kit
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
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Good for the earth and your looks, SpaRitual’s Signature Collection of gluten-free, certified organic and fairtrade lip glosses soothe and beautify the kisser.
Makeup Menagerie
Dive into these beauty picks to create the most glamorous party looks. Luminous and natural is the Aveda Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, Heart Lands, Lands, which features naturally flushed cheeks, stained pouts and nomadicinspired eyes, such as Hyacinth and Dusk Orchid shadows and Winterberry lip glaze.
PHOTO: FINALIST, CONTESSA 24, MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR, MARIA LI, PHOTO: BABAK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS
HAIRLINES NEWS
You make a difference when you become a GCS Member
AEROSOLS
PAPERS
we recycle FOILS
GLASS
USED COLOUR
CHEMICALS
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
METAL
LIGHTING
HAIR CLIPPINGS
we
ELECTRONICS
salonmagazine.ca
Lash Up
The Fall 2013 Modern Renaissance collection by SST Cosmetics offers two new lip and eye palettes that are mineral-based and free of parabens or talc.
Ardell Professional Self-Adhesive eyelashes do not require glue for application and go on in two easy steps— plus, they can be reused by removing Give the look of luxury with the Mirabella Beauty Sparkle Collection, new for the holiday season with Glitter Glaze eye shimmer and Swirling Pearl Brilliant highlighter.
Beyond Brilliance by Bodyography Professional Cosmetics offers four rich creamto-powder eye shadows that leave a multidimensional crushed pearl texture.
the adhesive. Ardell Professional LashLites offer a natural-looking eyelash band that adds fullness in three steps. Customize the fit by trimming any excess length before application.
Go to SalonMagazine.ca for pro tips on applying eyelash extensions.
Contessa
2014 Salon Interior Design FI Hair
Mosaic
Pure Self
4 semi-finalists and 2 finalists created by Lanvain Design
Lanvain Design at the summit of their art for 2525 years. since ans.
www.lanvain.com 1 800-361-2586 L.A. Coiffure et Spa
salonmagazine.ca
n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
salon
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HAIRLINES NAILS
OPI The new Designer Series lacquers feature graniteinspired colours for subtle sheen and matte texture.
CND Give her a classic mani or pedi with Rouge Red.
CND adds Fairy Dust mani at Behnaz Sarafpour S/S’13
Sparkle, Sparkle
CHINA GLAZE Happy HoliGlaze is a bevy of 12 glittery polishes— we love Your Present Required.
Dazzling nail launches, just in time for the holidays.
IBD Equipped with a timer, LED iLite is a compact, energysaving lamp that cures all types of LED gels.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
CUCCIO Manhattan Mayhem is one of three new Holiday Sparkle shades.
SECHE The Gracious and Kind collection offers six colours, such as Sparkle Clink Kiss.
ESSIE The new Encrusted Treasures collection is nothing short of genteel with six luxurious hues to choose from.
MORGAN TAYLOR Give a taste of the Royal Life in this new holiday collection, inspired by the decadent lifestyles of the regent and queenly.-
TEXT:VALERIE LAM, MODEL PHOTO COURTESY CND, PRODUCT PHOTOS COURTESY IBD, CUCCIO, SECHE, OPI, MORGAN TAYLOR, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS
VENIQUE Offer a perfect complementary colour to any holiday frock with Sea Diamonds.
salonmagazine.ca
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Formula for success:
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Unsurpassed 100% Great Lengths hair, in two personalized systems to meet your client’s every need. Extension services continue to be the fastest growing revenue stream for salon professionals. At Great Lengths we continue to provide cutting edge, hands-on curriculum, working with highly trained educators who will start you on the road in a new and exciting career direction. Contact us at 1-800-461-9302 to join the Great Lengths Network of hair extension artists – and add your name to the list of success stories working with the world’s most recognized and respected brand of hair extensions in the industry.
www.greatlengthscanada.com
hairlines nails
Hit the Road What to Know About a Mobile Nail Salon Business.
✓
Be sure to check with your municipal and provincial government, such as Canada Business Ontario and B.C.-based Inter-Community Mobile Business Licence
✓
✓
2.
your own hours, going to clients’
new clients.” When a nursing home
homes, blinging out your business
called her interested in finding
vehicle—is this what going mobile
out if she could offer services to
means? Find out what to expect
seniors, McGuire decided to give it
from these two nail technicians
a try. “I’ve been doing manicures
who have made the change: Tracy
and pedicures for them for eight
Thomas, owner of Tracy Thomas
and a half years, and it’s the most
Mobile Esthetics in Halifax and
rewarding job,” says McGuire. The
Alison McGuire, owner of Total
advantage of going to clients also
Body Esthetics in Thornbury, Ont.
means that nail technicians can work just about anywhere. McGuire has co-organized a monthly
Keep your operation spick-and-span by adhering to
Combined, Thomas and McGuire
a local restaurant and created on-
sanitation standards set by Health Canada and your
have been in business for 24 years,
site manicures at weddings, while
local health unit. For easy clean-up every day, try Accel
yet neither established their client
Thomas has offered pedicures for
Prevention Wipes, a ready-to-use
base using traditional advertising.
new moms and moms-to-be.
surface cleaner and disinfectant.
Thomas started her business
Display your certification and
when an existing client invited
license credentials and health
her to perform nail services at big
and sanitation inspection
parties. When word got out that
approvals—this raises
she travelled, the referrals kept
the credibility of your
coming. “Referrals also help ensure
business operations.
that when I enter a new client’s home, I can feel safe about it.” As
3 Holiday Promotions Ideas for Your Mobile Nail Salon
it turns out, it’s also been a great opportunity for men. “I’ve even gained male clients for esthetic services when someone referred
Offer an office holiday beauty party: facials,
her husband, and men like the
manicures, cocktails or all three!
privacy that a mobile salon can
Whether at their home or hotel suite, for larger
provide,” says Thomas. Now that her client base is growing, Thomas has created a website, so that
Pre-design nail art that can be applied and
potential clients can easily find
removed quickly for clients who want to change
prices and services.
their nail looks between events.
40
benefit of going mobile is going to
Program, for mobile business license requirements.
groups, help guests prep for their big night out!
3.
According to Thomas, “The biggest
their business on the road. Setting
The Power of Word-of-Mouth Advertising
J 1.
Reach an Untapped Market
nail technicians who have taken
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
“Manicures and Martinis” event at
How to Stay Connected Don’t let the lack of associates become a business setback. In an effort to keep her connections fresh, Thomas joined the Cosmetology Association of Nova Scotia. “As an association member, I can stay informed and know that I’m not alone,” she says. McGuire makes a point of regularly visiting a few nearby distributors. “By telling them about your mobile business, the sales reps can keep an eye out for what’s new,” she says. McGuire also signs up for classes offered by distributors and various manufacturers, which are usually online.
text:valerie lam, Photos: chris tsintziras,thinkstock
Checklist for Going Mobile
Chances are that you know a few
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
From The runway To your nails makeover your manicure with TrenDs — the contemporary line of soak-off gel polishes inspired by the current fashion trends featured on the runway and in fashion magazines. Fierce, Fabulous & Fun, TrenDs places Fashion at your Fingertips through Fashion Forward Colors, multifaceted Finishes, multidimensional Glitters, show-stopping shimmers, and Trendy Patterns & effects. innovative and unprecedented, they can be used alone for instant nail fashion, or as an overlay in combination with the shade of your choice. Feeling fancy? use a selection of TrenDs shades to create nail couture through stylish designs. your nails will receive a standing ovation. Model is wearing #PartyGirlProblems and Girls’ Night Out by Gelish
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Performs like Gel, Applies like Polish™ Ask your local distributor for genuine Gelish today Made in the USA 714. 773. 9758 © 2013 Hand & Nail Harmony • Brea, CA 92821 Gelish and Hand & Nail Harmony are registered trademarks of Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.
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HAIRLINES NEWS
Nailing Holiday Glamour
Ring in the bling! Fill your appointment books with these showstopping holiday nail art ideas that your clients will love.
Photo courtesy
Change Up the Gloss
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
CND Starry Night
One of the hottest nail trends in 2013 is texture—so why not send off the year with a twist on this look? “Simply alternating either a chunky glitter polish or a textured one with a shiny shade creates a new, dual luxe design,” says Melanie McCulley, owner of Well Manicured in Manhattan Beach, Calif., and Gelish educator. She adds that using a matte top coat over a glossy mani creates a varied texture design.
Artistic Nail Design Midnight Matte and Shine For step-by-step tutorials on how to create some of these dazzling designs, go to SalonMagazine.ca.
PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, COURTESY CND, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN
BEAuTy SERvIcES
salonmagazine.ca
Short2Long Hair Extensions...
Colour Play The holiday season comes with a recognizable palette of metallic, rose gold, black, and
You're inches away from amazing
wine-stained hues. As a first step in creating
CND Gilded Glimmer
a unique holiday collection that your salon can offer, “get your nail tech team together for a little wine or pizza party and play with these holiday colours,” suggests Alisha Rimando Botero, executive vice president and creative director at Artistic Nail Design. Display their creations on a tip wheel, mood board or photo album for clients to look through during their visit, which will give them added inspiration.
Artistic Nail Design Emerald Holiday Bling
And don’t forget to wear the designs yourself!
Statement Embellishments “Three-dimension nail accents are popping up all over the fashion world,” says McCulley. “I use small gems, rhinestones, studs and tiny pearl to create custom nail jewelry. If using regular polish, paint your base colour first, [apply] a thin coat of clear [polish] and
CND Off the Grid
take a long pair of needle-nose tweezers and apply the embellishment one-by-one onto the nail bed.” According to Rimando Botero, embellished nail art can also be done on gel nails, by either sandwiching the curing of the embellishment between two glossing top gel coats or applying each piece on top of a gel mani with nail glue resin before air-drying.
easy add-on
Marketing the Accent Nail “Charge nail art by the nail instead of a whole set. This
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helps clients feel comfortable asking for nail art,” says Alisha Rimando Botero. Not only is this a good way to introduce nail art with one or two accent nails to clients who are more conservative, but the holidays are also the perfect occasion to dial up their regular manicure.
The World Class Leader in Luxury Hair Extensions
www.short2long.com salonmagazine.ca
n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
salon
43
hairlines colour
Vivid & Vibrant With colourists being asked more often to
DeepShine Direct’s six new Intense Direct
permanently, Caruso has found a booming
create customized shades for their clients,
shades. Another more subtle shade idea is
business in creating custom hair extensions.
it’s not surprising to see an expanding range
casting the vibrant shades over a level 4 or 5
Colourists at his salon have been taking
of tools becoming available, too. “Fun,
for a downplayed, but interesting tone.
human hair wefts at level 9 and then dying
vibrant colours are really in for this holiday season,” says Karine Jacques, international artistic director for Oligo Professionnel, which
them to create temporary, custom hair
e Don’t… Be afraid to experiment. Many of the new lines include a white shade
recently launched a range of vivid KOKO
as well. This can be used as a toner or to help
shades. “The great thing about these shades
eliminate unwanted gold tones from blondes.
is that they give colourists the opportunity to
Colourists can also use it with the vibrant
create new options that give more dimension
shades to downplay the intensity. As another
to an already existing colour or create a ‘wow’
option for creating those much-coveted pastel
factor with an all-over, intense pigment,” says
shades, Caruso recommends mixing one part
Jacques. Ready to get to work? Check out
vibrant shade with two parts of any white-
this list of dos and don’ts first.
based conditioner. Vibrant shades can also be
e Do… Prelighten properly
pieces that can be glued or clipped in. “Bright colours are not what they were when they came out years ago,” says Caruso. “Then, it was more avant-garde, and it’s become more fashionable now. You can just lighten a piece in the fringe and weave colour into that area only. It creates more dimension and accents in the haircut.”
e Don’t… Send your client away
intermixed, for instance a red and yellow to
without home care.
create orange or purple and red for fuschia.
While it’s important for any colour client, it’s
To achieve the right amount of “pop” with
“You can use these highly pigmented shades
especially critical for those wearing bright
these vibrant colours, the key is to prelighten
as highlights, to incorporate dazzling flashes
shades. “The trick to working well with these
hair to the correct level. For purples and
of colour or to tone them down a bit with a
high-intensity pigments is to perfectly follow
pinks, take it to a level 8 or 9. For teals and
neutral to create those trendy pastel shades,
the instructions, especially when it comes to
reds, aim for a level 6 or 7. “On natural tones,
as well,” says Jacques. “It’s a question of
developing time, and then making sure your
levels 7, 8 and 9 will get the most vibrancy
how far your client wants to go.”
client is using an at-home routine that will
.
and punch out of the colour,” says Gerard Caruso, artistic director for Rusk and owner of Salon G in Hackensack, N.J., of using Rusk
44
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
protect her colour effectively to avoid fading
e Do… Create custom extensions. For clients that want to experiment, but not
and losing that nice vibrancy,” says Jacques.
text: melissa hill, hair: Karine Jacques, artistic Director, oligo Professionnel, Photo: alain comtois
How to work with the new range of bright shades.
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
Intuition shimmer
Imagination shimmer
Intellect shimmer
ILLUMINATE
Invention
Intention shimmer
shimmer
2 0 1 3 H O L I DAY C O L L E C T I O N
Improvisation
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hairlines men’s
9 Holiday Promotions to Try for Male Clients The holiday season is not only one of the
hair unless they recognize quality, so gift cards
busiest times in your appointment book, but
are a good way to introduce men to your
also the most giving time of year. “People
services,” says Liounis.
David Raccuglia, creative director at MensDept and owner of Chicago-based Art & Science salons. Make the most of the season with these holiday marketing ideas with men in mind.
1
6
Winter presents different scalp needs including flaking, dryness and tightness. When they are in for an appointment,
Liounis suggests educating men on winter scalp care right at the basin . “Once you address the causes of scalp problems,
Market the service and product together.
recommend the products that help, such as
“Promote a gift certificate for a service
stimulating scalp conditioners.” It’s important to
then give away one product that the
frame a product recommendation as a solution,
stylist recommended during the service,”
as Raccuglia reminds us, “Men don’t like
says Raccuglia.
buying things that they don’t need.”
2
7
on the back of his hand and educate him on the
reception area.
Manager and stylist Matula Liounis of Chez Cheveux in London, Ont. suggests retailing shave products with
an experience: give him a trial of how it feels benefits of the product as you’re giving him a neck massage.
3
Since shaves are essential to men’s grooming, Liounis takes shaving education one step further by creating
Both Liounis and Raccuglia agree on the most basic marketing strategy: Display holiday promotions in a prominent
place, such as by your station or at your
8
When suggesting a new product or service to men, remember that “men are very resistant to change and they
won’t abandon the cut or product they’ve been using all along. Try asking about his grooming
a print-out of best practices for better shaving
routine and focus on what is not working, then
and including it in gift bags and baskets for men.
create a sales opportunity by offering a solution
“For the holidays, tie the print-out with twine or
to their problem,” says Raccuglia.
something masculine and festive,” she says.
4
When it comes to creative holiday displays geared to men, stick with classic accessories. “Rustic materials,
9
Take advantage of this time of year when people may be feeling more generous than the rest of the year.
During the holiday season people are actively
vintage shaving handles, metal buckets
looking for a unique gift to buy, so don’t
[instead of baskets] and dark colours are all
be afraid to “ask for the top service dollar
good ideas,” says Liounis.
requirement during the holidays,”
5
Don’t underestimate how far a gift card
says Raccuglia.
can go with a new client. “Men don’t usually spend a lot of money on their
a Pack in These Stocking Stuffer Ideas • Offer best-selling products in travel sizes.
• Suggest multipurpose products, such as 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and body washes. • Display body accessories, such as sponges and loofas, near the product it is used with, which helps explain what the accessory is for. —Matalua Liounis, Chez Cheveus, London, Ont.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
text:valerie lam, Photo: hair: lucy cardoza, cast salon, melbourne, australia, styling: andrew zumbo, Photo: amanda Fordyce
are already looking for gifts to give,” says
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HAIRLINES NEWS
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TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS
Scruples Indie Hair hairspray #superfirm is now available in a 50 ml miniature size— ideal for quick sales at the cash and packaging into holiday baskets. Info: myindiehair.com
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Picture Perfect
W
The Pro’s p te Step-by-S an Guide to e Incredibl t Photoshoo
By Anna Lee Boschetto
hether you need to update your portfolio or you’re ready to enter competition, scheduling a photoshoot can seem more than a bit overwhelming.
In fact, lead hairstylist for Schwarzkopf Professional and five-time Contessa winner Rossa Jurenas says that one of the biggest challenges for new stylists is getting over the initial nervousness. “It’s scary but you have to remember it’s a challenge,” advises Jurenas. While a little nervous energy may fuel your creative inspiration, here’s a how-to guide that will help you keep calm and carry on from the initial concept to the
Kale Friesen, Photographer, Kale JF Photography
final award-worthy images.
1
FOUR TO SIX MONTHS BEFORE THE SHOOT
What’s the Story? Developing a storyboard around your theme will not only give you the focus that’s required to bring your creative vision to life, but it will also allow you to communicate your vision to your whole team.
“Have a storyboard ready for your photographer,” shares Goldwell artistic team member, Michelle Pargee. “Use inspiration photos of the styles and colours as well as your sketches of the looks you’re are going for.” Contessa photographer Kale Friesen would agree, adding that it’s a great way to stay organized because the storyboard is, “the base for
1
THREE MONTHS BEFORE THE SHOOT
Make It Up
Michelle Pargee, Goldwell Artistic Team Member 50
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Dee Fortier, Eufora International Artistic Director
Whether you’re working with a
resource. But Tran suggests
important as your photographer
recent grad or seasoned pro, if the
meeting with the makeup artist
when it comes to capturing your
makeup artist doesn’t understand
you’re considering and asking
vision. “Going through a couple
your theme, you can end up in
to see their portfolio; this will
of trials with the [make-up artist]
big trouble. In Contessa finalist’s
save you big-time in the long
before the shoot,” she says, will
Dat Tran’s experience, asking
run. According to Dee Fortier,
eliminate any unwanted surprises
for recommendations from your
international artistic director for
on the day of the shoot.
photographer is always a great
Eufora, your makeup artist is as
photos courtesy kale friesen, michelle pargee, dee fortier, rossa jurenas, dat tran
everyone to keep on task.”
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
1
LAST WORDS From the Pros
FOUR TO SIX WEEKS BEFORE THE SHOOT
N “Remember that when you see the photo you’re
Define Your Style “Hair
plays
off
of
only seeing one side [of
fashion,”
the head]. A lot of people
explains Tran, “if you don’t add
don’t realize that, while
the right clothing or accessories,
they’re doing an amazing
it won’t state the right tone.”
colour, in the end you’re
That said, while more expansive
only seeing one side.”
budgets will allow you to hire
—Rossa Jurenas
a professional fashion stylist, Jurenas
suggests
N “Find a mentor who can
partnering
with local boutiques that offer theme. Also, “you can trade [services] for images to be used in their stores,” shares Jurenas, adding that this is a great way to
Finding Your Face When
budgets
are
tight,
keep costs down, especially for
wrangling friends and family into
first-timers.
playing
model-for-the-day
can
by assisting and asking questions.”
TWO DAYS BEFORE + ON THE DAY OF THE SHOOT
—Kale Friesen
N “It’s important to choose a model who’s not
Keep Organized
necessarily cover-girl
On the day of the photoshoot,
pretty, but someone who
best option. Instead, Pargee says
keeping everyone on the same
has good bone structure,
that finding models is as easy as
page is essential. “Reach out to
is age-appropriate and is
people watching. “Go to a mall,
everyone before the day of the
willing to let you do what
coffee house or places where
shoot with confirmation emails,”
you need to do with their
there are young people and just
suggests Friesen. “It can happen
hair.”
walk around.”
that they don’t have the correct
potential model will photograph
date, and you’re in a real jam if that happens the day of the shoot.”
on-the-spot
When it comes to keeping
snapshot with your phone. “Some
the day rolling, Fortier suggests
people are beautiful in person and
having two models on the go at all
they don’t always project that
times, meaning that when one is
way in a photo,” Fortier explains.
in makeup the other is in hair, and
“But there are people who have
if the photographer always has
a quirky look and they [often]
someone camera-ready, this will
photograph the best.” When it
minimize downtime and delays.
well
is
a
quick,
comes to payment, Pargee says
salonmagazine.ca
1
wasting a lot of time
be tempting, but not always the
All it takes to find out if a
Dat Tran, Owner, Dat Salon
help you. You can avoid
Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional Platform Artist
complementary styles to your
Most
importantly,
on-set
—Michelle Pargee
N “Don’t go too crazy when you first start. Less is more because you learn as you go. You can’t let the fashion overtake the hair. If you see fashion within the first five seconds of seeing a photo, you are missing the mark.” —Dee Fortier
N “Create two looks that
that the cut or colour, plus a switch
flexibility is critical. “I’ve had
back to their natural colour if they
stylists who have looked at a
then get inspired that day.
choose, is all the payment that’s
couple of frames and didn’t like
An image can pop up
needed when you’re working
what they saw after spending
from the hair texture, curl
with newly discovered models;
a lot of time styling,” shares
or braids and it may still
throw in some maintenance hair-
Friesen. “You need to know how
work with the makeup
care products as part of the deal,
to roll with it and have a backup in
and wardrobe.”
and you’re done.
case something isn’t working.”
S
you know you’ll do, but
—Dat Tran
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Best ’Dos of 2013 Here’s a flashback of the styles, shades and hair-raising events that captured our attention over the past 12 months! By Jillian Wood and Anna Lee Boschetto
On the Edge
Over the Rainbow
Dubbed the “undercut,”
Between brilliant emeralds
celebs, including Rosario
and subtle violets, when
Dawson and Rihanna,
it came to hair colour, it
were seen sporting long
seemed that rainbow
locks on one side of
hues were all the
their head along with a
rage. Young starlets
close shave on the other,
including Madonna’s
putting a new twist on
daughter Lourdes Leon
short coifs.
went green while even more mature women
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like Dame Helen Mirren debuted her pink coif at this
Dollars a 30-yearold man was selling his virgin hair for, on Craigslist, after he got it cut for the very first time.
year’s British Academy of Film and Television Arts Awards.
Chop Shop Not too long, not too short, but just right. As winter turned to spring, hairstyles were the extremes. From runways to red carpet events, supermodels and stars like Karlie Kloss and January Jones rocked fresh, midlength styles.
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Photos: imagecollect
all about finding a fine balance between
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And the Award for Most Controversial… When it comes to making waves in 2013, no one does it better than Miley. And that’s just with her hair. From long and ombre to chopped and bleached out, it’s been a total image makeover. On the hairstyle front, you can’t help but be impressed with the chances she’s been willing to take. We’ll skip over her performances.
Paying the Price In the world of the rich and famous, some celebs will spare no expense for their hair, and perhaps no stylist understands this better than Ted Gibson, who raised his prices for a haircut from $950 to $1,200. Upping the ante even further, Reese Witherspoon reportedly spent $1,500 for a branded haircut that is said to achieve the most natural look by
4
treating every hair strand individually.
Number of times women change their hair in a given year, while men change theirs a mere three times in their whole life, according to a UK hair transplant clinic survey.
salonmagazine.ca
3.5 Pounds that the wig that Oprah wore on the cover of O, the Oprah magazine’s September issue weighed.
Royal Tresses
Making It Social Whether they were getting new haircuts or changing hair hues, nearly everyone went to great lengths in sharing their salon experience. Twitter and Instagram were the most popular social media tools of choice among celebs, including Beyoncé and Coco Rocha, who shared their transformations with their respective legions of followers.
Continuing her reign as “The Most Iconic Hair of 2013,” the Duchess of Cambridge ruled supreme as we pined for her stylists’ coveted secrets for achieving her lustrous locks. Perhaps her signature style is not only a result of exceptional salon treatments, but also a shining perk of her highlypublicized pregnancy.
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Style Sirens
Preview tomorrow’s trends as industry pros weigh in on what’s hot in colour, cut and style for 2014. By Valerie Lam
A
s we head into 2014, style cues from the past are given an innovative spin that’s all about taking a bold leap into the future. Read on for
the trend forecast.
Colour: Deep Roots and the Mix of Cool and Warm With the sure exit of ombré, 2014 will see a new, darker kind of gradient colour. “Every winter, we see crimsons, coppers and violets sweep through the salon. These sultry, solid colours will be seen with a clear and purposefully shadowed root area,” says Michelle Oliver, a Schwarzkopf Professional colour expert from Kick Hair & Beauty in Edmonton. “Unlike ombré, the darker colour is applied on the first inch, only at the roots and looks beautiful on both very straight as well as curly hair.” Timothy Switzer, Contessa winner, Goldwell artistic director and global colour master, and owner of Timothy & Co. Salon in Oshawa, Ont., speculates an evolution with this year’s trend colours: “With Goldwell’s 2013 Color Zoom Beautify collection, we saw pastel-candy colours merged into blonde hair and earthy, rusty tones added to dark hair. If we look to fashion we are also seeing metalics and jewel tones, creating an interesting monochromatic colour story, which can easily
“
be translated into the hair colour palette.” The combination of cool and warm shades will become a key trend in hair colour,
Look for interesting, unusual combinations of all shades.” –Timothy Switzer
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PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY
S/S ’14 Marc Jacobs ion Week sh Fa rk Yo w Ne
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3/’14 Prada F/W ’1 n Week Milan Fashio
THROWBACK REVIVAL... Four styles from yesteryear get transformed into fresh modern looks for 2014.
1
THE PIXIE will be finger-dried with a wash-and-go, punk feel.
4 ultier S/S ’1 Jean Paul Ga k ee W n io Paris Fash
The new undercurrent punk
is inspired by past eras, but with a new spin.
Heavy blunt lines will be chunky and not
“
combinations of all shades, creating texture
worn in the traditional way you thought
and rich reflections,” says Switzer.
about wearing a geometric cut; the hair will be more textured and you will want
Cut: Short Shorts
▼
as well. “Look for interesting, unusual
In a hair landscape that reached a plateau at longer lengths, chopped locks are now
cropping up on the heads of Karlie Kloss,
Coco Rocha and Saskia de Brauw. “We have had long flowing hair for many seasons
and the shorter style trend will return to a haircut rather than a hairstyle,” observes Kevin Murphy. To achieve the modern
chunky bobs, grunge and pure androgyny of cuts, “take ideas from the ‘60s and texture
from the ‘90s and you get a cleaner grunge and grittier take on the ‘60s shapes,” he
says. “Cuts will be geometric. It’s all about having a blunt edge to the cuts, but still having texture that is thick and not thin.
salonmagazine.ca
You have individual beauty in your chair, and there can be a lot of variation in how you execute the trends.” –Damien Carney
2
––Damien Carney
THE PARTING is off-centred. The centre part held the spotlight for many years. Instead,
side parts give a delicate line to features. ––Roch Lemay
3
THE MULLET, believe it or not, is returning and is androgynous. To differentiate
from Duran Duran, forsake the ducktail for a cut that blends with the rest of the length and requires less finishing— comme Jean Paul Gaultier ––Roch Lemay
4
THE FRINGE is structured and neo-geometric with graphic lines and can be styled as a
partial or mini-fringe. ––Damien Carney
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“
Seen at Gucci, Dior, Prada and Versace, these runway styles, inspired by David Bowie are great for the younger generation.” –Roch Lemay
of how it’s done. In the ‘80s, gelée was the product. You let the liquid gel product dry with the hair to get that glossy, crispy finish.” To steer clear of too much throwback reference, Lemay says, “Start one inch out from the scalp to give a natural flow and volume to support the style and apply gelée on the ends for gripped texture.” To adjust the style for clients who are working in more conservative environments, Lemay suggests softening the blunt cuts and edgy finishes on longer lengths, falling at the shoulder to three inches below shoulder-length. Alexa Chung is the perfect example of a blunt, chunky style that the career woman can work, says Lemay. “It's uncomplicated, finished and still has that edgy cut. It’s also easy to take care of,
d Bowie n at the Davi Tilda Swinto m, U.K. eu e V+A Mus Exhibit at th
and she can wear it with a fringe. There’s a certain volume to the look and she won’t need a round brush.” He suggests teaching clients to blow dry hair upside down for natural movement at the back of the head and lots of soft texture.
the hair to look like you have put product
your client’s bone structure or lips. You have
in it,” Murphy adds.
individual beauty in your chair, and there
style can be attributed to stars including
can be a lot of variation in how you execute
Michelle Williams in the new Louis Vuitton
the trends.”
ads and Miley Cyrus’ punk-edge texture. “My
the shorter cut trend means that you’ll have to master the fundamentals. “Graduation
clients have been requesting this shorter look,” says Sean Godard, international
haircut to have a strong impact,” he says.
Style: David Bowie-inspired Grunge
“The techniques will be very [precise]—for
Let’s dance to this new wave of punk-grunge
director at Toronto’s Salon Tocci. “In 2013, we
the past eight to 10 years, the techniques
styles, which, according to Roch Lemay,
saw this trend begin and I think we are going
have been distorted with undercutting and
Matrix lead educator, can be modified for
to see it blossom into 2014. I find that trends
disconnection; but that’s no longer on
each generation. “Seen at Gucci, Dior, Prada
always have a six-year cycle—two years
trend.” He reminds us that although the cuts
and Versace, these runway styles, inspired
being underground, two years when it is hot
are edgy and inspired by the underground
by David Bowie, are great for the younger
and then two years when the mainstream
style scene, “hair still needs to show a
generation,” Lemay says. “The grunge of the
culture attaches to it and [by then], stylists
strong value of beauty. Adapt these trends to
2000s is different from the 1980s because
are already on to the next trend.”
will be a dominant theme. You want the
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
performing artist at Redken and artistic
S
PHOTO: IMAGECOLLECT
Damien Carney notes that capitalizing on
Popular influences on this shorter, grunge
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By Melissa Hill
What you can learn behind the scenes at Salon Magazine’s exclusive holidayinspired cover shoot with Moroccanoil artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero. By Melissa Hill
S
pending a day at a photoshoot is always an enlightening experience. The work that goes
into creating one great photograph comes from a whole collaborative team—sharing their ideas, experimenting and using their talents to make the best of each style. We spent the day with Moroccanoil artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero, in Montreal, as he and his team shot exclusive looks for the magazine that were inspired by the party season. The styles are also completely accessible for clients in the salon. Here he shares how he did it, plus some of the tips and tricks you can use, too.
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PHOTOS: HAIR: ANTONIO CORRAL CALERO FOR MOROCCANOIL, MAKEUP: NICO GUZMAN, HAIR ASSISTANT: LAURIE DERAPS, STYLING: ISABELLE LONG, PHOTOS: NEIL MOTA (ALL L’ELOI), MODELS: JUSTINE PAQUETTE (NEXT MODELS CANADA) AND KARELLE PARENT (DULCEDO MODEL MANAGEMENT)
Rocker Glam
salonmagazine.ca
On flexibility…out
working When a look isn’t ught it would, the way you tho some back-up be prepared with no matter how ideas. This is true a stylist. Calero long you’ve been s on one of the demonstrated thi mpleting the models. After co to shoot, Calero g look and startin y the images didn’t like the wa He scrapped were appearing. apart and quickly the look, took it one [right] that created another ometimes, was a winner. “S thing, do it I start with some That happened and don’t like it. , step back, today. Don’t panic says. “Put he breathe and go,” ergy into your hands and en a mistake, it. Sometimes, by really create a that’s when you fantastic look.”
On the looks…
create a look, you also need to make sure
“I was inspired by people on the street. I
it works well for blondes, brunettes, all the
wanted to work with textures and blondes,”
models. The more we do it, the better we get.
says Calero. “For the holidays, everyone always
Don’t be afraid to have a fear of failure. It makes
puts hair up. You can put it up, but don’t make
you a better stylist and a better professional.”
it too severe. When you have a beautiful outfit, but keep the hair down and a bit loose and messy, it’s a nice contrast. It doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard.”
On teamwork… “It’s not just about the person doing the hair,” says Calero. “Everyone brings ideas. It’s good to listen, even if sometimes you don’t like what
On creating the best holiday hair…
they say. Leave your ego somewhere else and
“The hair has to match the personality of the
take [their ideas] into consideration and make the
client. Find out where she is going, what she
best. It’s the whole team that makes it possible.”
is going to be wearing. Everything should have a nice balance in terms of image,” says Calero.
On the key to a successful shoot… “Prepare a mood board. Know where you’re heading. Get three or four looks, and make
“You have to use the right amount of product,
sure there is a nice transition,” says Calero. “I
because the hair needs to move. And I have
started this shoot with texture. From beginning
to work with the designer and bring his
to end, my focus was on texture. Don’t go
perspective. His ideas and my ideas have to
from texture then make it super sleek. You
marry and match,” says Calero. “When you
won’t have a good transition.”
salonmagazine.ca
▼
On runway styles…
n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
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Antonio’s faves… Light: The 1. Moroccanoil t, formulated famous treatmen ndes. especially for blo
lumizing 2. Moroccanoil Vo m middle of Mousse: Apply fro to plump locks. hair to the ends Root Boost: 3. Moroccanoil e. Apply to the Gives great textur y. roots and blow-dr
2.
3.
1.
By-the-Numbers: A Day in the Life Antonio Corral Calero shares his up-close-and-personal New York Fashion Week perspective.
1-2
The number of runway shows the team completes in the
average day.
5 am
The time the day begins. “I always like to get an early start
to my day.”
4
Calero’s keys to a great day—a good cup of coffee, workout,
meditation, plus a phone call home. “I take time to call my family before a show—it’s important to get that moral support from them.”
3 hours before a show the team assembles on-site. “Between styling models and television interviews backstage, it can be a bit stressful,” he says. “However, at the same time, it’s very exciting to be doing what we’re doing.”
10-15
The number of cans of Moroccanoil hairspray the
team goes through per show, depending on the style and the
AN ON-SET TRICK
is Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong. It’s amazing for locking
Many stylists use hairpieces and extensions on the set
styles into place, while maintaining flexible movement in the hair and
of an editorial shoot. This one was no exception. Both
adding beautiful shine.”
extensions and a hairpiece were used on the cover model, although Calero has a tip for making it look as natural as possible. “We used eyeshadow to try and make the roots darker, to create dimension and make it a bit more real,” he says. He used a dark black-brown shadow, applied with a brush and smudged with his fingertips to achieve the effect.
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number of models. “My number one must-have product backstage
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
13
The average number of hours worked during a typical day
at NYFW.
20 20
The number of stylists working on the creative hair team. The average number of models per show. “It always depends,”
says Calero. “We do a lot!” He personally does hair for an average of five models per show.
S
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Hair: Rokk Ebony Artistic Team, Rokk Ebony, Melbourne, Australia Makeup: Kate Fletcher Styling: Bec Cole Photos: Elizabeth Kinnaird
To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Classic and unfussy, this work proves that understated hair is utterly beautiful.
BIG TEASE salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Christine Margossian for L’Oréal Professionnel Artistic Direction: Yvan Babillon and Laure Delvigo – C/O Beauty Full Consulting Makeup: Stéphane Dussart Styling: Etienne Jeanson Photos: Eric Ouaknine
To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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R e
y s k c a i e c ch
o R
y ad e a -r ty kes n r a i ta s p ion bob s. i n Th ect um ctio l l n co lati ire p nt d e er f f di
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Clean shapes speak volumes in this Canadian collection.
EvEryday Glamour 66
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Hair: Rocky Vitelli for Farouk Systems, Locale J Salon, Thornhill, Ont. Makeup: Stephanie Zaffino Styling: Dasha, Casa Como Photos: Vimal Pa
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Inspired by French couture, this collection offers a glamorous yet eerie atmosphere.
Hair: Sharon Blain, sharonblain.com Makeup: Rachel Montgomery Styling: Emma Cotterill Photos: Israel Rivera
To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Haunted Opulence salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Christopher Deagle, Nobasura Agency and Simone, Vancouver Makeup: Christine Jairamsingh Photos: Trevor Brady
To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Rocking it
Raw
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Simple, feminine styles make a peaceful statement in this serene collection.
e r o m
s i s s e l To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Hair: Genevieve Collerton, Wild Life Hair, SoGo, Sydney, Australia Makeup: Linda West Styling: Mel McQueen Photos: Danielle Reich
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Hair: Damien Rinaldo, Boris the Cuttery, Adelaide, Australia Makeup: Victoria Baron Styling: Andrew Zumbo Photos: Andrew O’Toole To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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ENIGMA
Sultry and sophisticated, these looks are sure to please for any party.
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Hair and Artistic Direction: Contessa 24, Finalist, Session Hairstylist of the Year, Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Creative Direction: Joe Suarez Makeup: Walter Obal Styling: Nikko Kefalas Photos: Hama Sanders
To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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n a m o W y t i C t e e w S e . m o tion c ed llec n i ef n co r nd ssio a e l oo is s c n, in th a b Ur ther e tog
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Hair: Timothy Switzer, Timothy and Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Makeup: Cody Alain Styling: Matthew Chow Photos: Greg Swales
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ALWAYS EN
VOGUE Coiffed and cool is this 2013 NAHA Contemporary Classic finalist collection.
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Hair: Contessa 24, Finalist, Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Makeup: Nicolas Blanchet Photos: Doug McMillan
Steely and sleek, the coifs make an unforgettable statement.
Black Metallic To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Andor Bubelenyi, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Joseph Dellicarpini, Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Saco, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Elan Hair Studio, Winnipeg J’aime Coiffure, Montreal JC Salons, Toronto KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat, Alta. Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, Ont. Taz Hair Co. Yorkville, Toronto ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Isabelle Baril, Eclectic Salon Spa, St-Eustache, Que. Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Jorge Joao, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, Ont. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-St-Hilaire, Que. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Renn VanDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg MASTER COLOURIST Catherine Allard, Salon Odyssée Le Loft, Montreal, Que. Adriana Balea, Flaunt Boutique, Toronto Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair, Barrie, Ont. Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Industry Hairdressing, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Jessica Van Kuyk, Suki’s, Vancouver CANADIAN COLOURIST Melanie Bourne, JC Salons, Toronto Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanèteHair Coiffure, Montreal Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Kirsten McIntosh, Freelance, Ottawa Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Emma Wolliscroft, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont.
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SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Caylee Augé, Hype Hair Studio, Vancouver Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Kristin Page, Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Jody Kezar, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Amanda Rendell, Studio H, London, Ont. Kimberly Turmel, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Karine Vezina, Olab Coiffure, Montreal
STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Lisa Brandow, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton, Ont. Shelby-Rae Heltay-Pfieffer, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Bailey Hutchinson, Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Courtney Sobko, Studio H, London, Ont. Jaelyn Walker, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Christina Dominelli, Christina Dominelli Salon, Edmonton Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon, Edmonton Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton
MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Lance Blanchette, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Matthew Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, B.C. Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Mikka Trista, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton
ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Eden Boudreau, Eden B. Hair, Bedford, N.S. Alison Bradbury, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L.
AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Elshadai Erbeto, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Jody Kezar, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Amanda Rendell, Studio H, London, Ont. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver
BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Lenelle Davis, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Jordon Turner, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style et Couleur, Montreal
ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London
HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Duyen Huynh, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Kerri Dawn Jarrett, Salon Reform, Calgary Jason Mellor, Edges Salon & Spa, Calgary Oluwasola Olorunleke, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon MAKEUP ARTIST Julie Coulombe, Freelance, Mississauga, Ont. Katie Foster, Studio H, London, Ont. Craig-Ryan French, CRF Makeup, Toronto Vanessa Parto, Artistry by V, Vancouver Gabriela Soares, So Chiq Studio, Waterloo, Ont. CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Elfi Lemieux, Panache, Montreal Judy Lim, Polish’d Nail Bar, Toronto Karen A. Milla, New Image Skin & Nails, Kitchener, Ont. Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta. NEW HAIRSTYLIST Lenelle Davis, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Mayumi Grindlay, Felix and Ginger Salon, Caledon, Ont. Shereen Hussein, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. Cassandra Lounsberry, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver
QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Eddy Santiago Burgos, Saco, Montreal Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanèteHair Coiffure, Montreal Sara Drolet, Donald Prouxl, Montreal Stephan Lepard, Saco, Montreal Matthew Waldron, Panache, Montreal SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Nikki Denatale, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Brittany Francis, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Chris Pritchard, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina Mariecel Tamayo, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Josie Vilayvanh, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg SALON INTERIOR DESIGN L.A. Coiffure et Spa, LaSalle, Que. Noir Salon & Spa, Ottawa One 2 One Studio, Toronto Pure Self Salon N Spa, Markham, Ont. Storm Hair Group, St. Catharines, Ont. JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Amici Spa Inc., Markham, Ont. Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont.
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salon profile
On the Cutting Edge Growing up, Matt Collins wasn’t exactly the type of guy you’d picture wielding a pair of shears. Yet, by observing his barber, then perfecting his own technique in between visits, that’s exactly how it all began.
y the time he was in high school in Barrie, Ont.,
program. “At Rinaldi’s, the stylists are very technically trained,” explains
Matt Collins had gone from cutting his own hair,
Collins, adding that his experience of working within a family-oriented salon
to giving his classmates regular haircuts. “No
was one that he credits for cultivating his skill. The experience also seems
one really trusted me at first,” says Collins. “But I
to have set the tone for how he and his business partner, Brennen Demelo,
guaranteed that I’d give them $50 cash if I screwed
work with their own team today at Toronto's Brennen Demelo Studio. “For
up their hair.” After a brief one-year stint playing
us, we hire first on attitude and second on skill,” explains Collins. “I think
varsity rugby at university and cutting hair in his
that the right attitude to learn and strive makes the skill fall into place.”
dorm room, plus a little encouragement from his mom, Collins decided to
For Collins, his experience as one of L’Oréal Professionnel's
follow his true passion. While gaining hands-on hair experience at Rinaldi’s
platform artists has not only afforded him accolades, including
Salon in Barrie, Collins also joined Georgian College’s apprenticeship
L’Oréal Professionnel’s Canadian Runway Stylist of the Year—
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B
By Anna Lee Boschetto
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Whether he's behind the scenes or on stage, Matt Collins enjoys the high energy and excitement.
it has also offered the opportunity to work with top-notch stylists, including his business partner.
But
when it comes down to it, Collins believes that, for him, it has been all about investing time, energy and hard work that has allowed him to achieve success in such a demanding industry. At the same time, he also understands the limitations that more inexperienced stylists face, namely inflexible schedules, that prevent them from pursuing editorial or television work. It’s one of the reasons that he and Demelo support their stylists taking days off from the salon in order to also be a part of photo or television shoots. “It’s tough; most salons won’t give you the freedom to do what you want; but you have to make sacrifices,” says Collins, adding that for the past four years, he had been working seven days a week, between seeing clients in the salon, photoshoots, filming or on stage for L’Oréal Professionnel. Along with the day-to-day challenges of working in a fast-paced salon environment, Collins’ ability to work in a variety of settings has afforded him the opportunity to be a part of television shows including, Steven and Chris, and, more recently, The Social. Although it may seem that he doesn’t have much downtime—and he doesn’t—it’s the range of work and experiences that Collins has found the most rewarding. “I love the energy and I feel like there’s this adrenaline rush,” says Collins of his multi-faceted career. Whether it’s the result of his past life as an athlete or his passion for seeking out new challenges, one thing is for sure Collins—is definitely at the top of his game.
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salon business
3 Ways to Attract More Clients Make the most of your next photoshoot with these helpful tips from two veterans. Although developing your portfolio and submitting collections for award consideration are definitely key reasons for making time for photoshoots, there’s so much more that can be gained from a day spent on set. In fact, according to many industry professionals, the images from a photoshoot can actually be used as an effective marketing tool. Here are three ways that you can attract more clients with your latest collection. 1. Inspire More Referrals Having images from a photoshoot allows your clients to see the full scope of the work you’re capable of offering. “I believe that it pushes them to want to see you and see what you can do for them, as well,” says Joey Marchese, a stylist with Toronto’s bob + paige salon. It’s that inspiration that Tim Kuo, co-owner of Vancouver's Salon Haze, says makes it even easier for your current clients to refer their family and friends. “Having work displayed adds a connection,” says Kuo, who finds that clients are proud to say that their stylist was involved in other projects or has won an award.
2. Expand Your Social Network Like it or not, social media is not going anywhere. That means, if you want to attract a diverse client base, including a younger clientele, then you’ve got to be there. “The more striking the imagery is, the more people will gravitate to it,” says Kuo. “It generates traffic not only in the salon, but also online.” Showcasing your work online enhances your profile with your current clients, and when they comment, like or share the images, you’re instantly connecting with would-be clients within their network, too.
3. Walk Right In
“The more striking the imagery is, the more people gravitate to it.”
When it comes to finding a location for your next shoot, consider your salon.
—Tim Kuo
photoshoot itself is a great marketing tool because it generates immediate
stylists and make up artist, you’re also sharing fresh ideas with your colleagues, which can also lead them to broadening their clientele. “It brings the salon team back together,” says Marchese. Both Marchese and Kuo agree that the interest from virtually anyone passing by the location. “It gives the clients another way of looking at the salon,” says Marchese, who adds that even prepping for a shoot in the salon has attracted walk-in clients requesting a particular colour or cut. But no matter where your next photoshoot takes you, advance planning is essential. “Shoot before the trend starts,” says Marchese. This enables you to offer maximum inspiration to your clients, no matter what their style.
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S
text: AnnA Lee Boschetto, photo: meLissA hiLL
Along with bringing in potential new clients, including your photographer, models,
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CONTESSA GALLERY
Contessa 24, Semi-Finalist, Canadian Salon Team of the Year
Co-owner of Glam Salon Boutique in Old Montreal, with Véronique Noraz, Olivier Miotto spearheads a team of highly creative hairstylists who all enjoy doing things a little bit differently.
1
According to Miotto, oils are essential for creating gorgeous sleek, shiny hair.
PHOTOS: HAIR: OLIVIER MIOTTO, GLAM SALON BOUTIQUE, MAKEUP: JULIE CHABOT, JESSICA MANZO, STYLING: YSO, PHOTO: CARL LESSARD, INSPIRATION PHOTO: ISTOCK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: SHU UEMURA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
Glam Salon Boutique Colour Goes Comic Con
into place naturally”, says Miotto about this
Winner of the Canadian Salon Team
finalist Contessa collection.
Contessa two years ago, Glam Salon
Neo-retro
Boutique showcased for 2013 its very
The models for this collection, which is
own vision of mangas—inspired by
also partly inspired by cabaret showgirls
contemporary Japanese comics. “We did a
of the 1920s also had to exhibit a strong
lot of tests, and the disconnected sections
personality, “especially because of
and different hair colours are key elements
the washed-out background, which is
of this collection,” says Miotto. “What’s
reminiscent of vintage photography,”
more, it’s a team effort, so we had to keep
explains Miotto. “Their personalities really
everyone’s input exciting. We let the hair fall
had to shine through.”
salonmagazine.ca
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SALON INTERIORS
Pre-reno, the salon had partitions. This open space makes it more inviting.
Details Interior design: Tal Fisher Furniture: Mobilier Plateau Opened in 2005, redesigned in 2010. Staff 6 stylists
1 esthetician 1 receptionist Website carteblanchecoiffure.com Brands Kevin.Murphy Kérastase Wella Professionals
Incorporating the original m odernstyle chairs he lped minimize additional renovation co sts without co mpromising the overall de sign.
I’ve seen too many whiteon-white salons and I wanted to do exactly the opposite. Black has a luxe feeling that I love.” –stylist Tal Fisher
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PHOTOS: PAUL A. LAROCQUE
“
A stunning addition to the all-black space, the chandelier was custom-made in Asia, according to Fisher’s specifications.
salonmagazine.ca
e in Montreal was a Carte Blanche Coiffur on Interior Design Sal for list fina a Contess in 2013.
T
Black Code
A family business gets a total makeover. By Yasmin Grothé
al Fisher is fuelled by high-octane creativity.
air glass spheres that illuminate the matte black walls in this perfectly
Not only is he an accomplished hairstylist—
symmetrical space.
having won the ultra-coveted Canadian Wella
Located a stone’s throw from chic Westmount, in Montreal’s west
Professionals Trend Vision award a few years ago—but he also
end, the quick (and affordable!) makeover has given the salon a lounge
redesigned Carte Blanche Coiffure, his family-owned salon, with a
vibe that’s both cool and inviting. “I wanted the space to have the same
nod to the current sleek and minimalist trend seen in contemporary
look and feel of a boutique hotel lobby. I think I visited every hotel in
interiors. “I love interior design and absolutely everything that relates
Old Montreal looking for inspiration, on top of all of the international
to it,” says Fisher as he points to the chandelier, a cluster of light-as-
architectural magazines I bought!” says Fisher with a smile.
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beauty professional
association
advancing our industry
events
PBA Members get discounts on entering.
COMPETE NAHA Entry Opens Early January 2014 probeauty.org/naha Media Supporter
800.468.2274 (480.281.0424)
Hair by 2013 NAHA Winner Matt Swinney
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CELEBRATING THE ARTISTRY AND SKILL OF THE PROFESSIONAL SALON INDUSTRY
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JULY 13, 2014 MANDALAY BAY RESORT AND CASINO LAS VEGAS, NEVADA
salon events
Eufora Brings International Stylists to Global Connection Details: Eufora’s 2013 Global Connection educational event brought together an international team of hairstyling superstars together to inspire stylists. The show included spectacular presentations by Dee Fortier, Eufora’s international artistic director, Neil Smith, English Hair and Beauty Awards 2013 Women’s Stylist of the Year, Jay Fata, who led a special men’s presentation for this burgeoning market, and more. When & Where: September 15 - 16 in Los Angeles Highlights: Congratulations to all the winners at Eufora’s Stylist of the Year Awards, including Ontario stylists, Shereen Hussein, Deeva Hair, Kitchener; Alannah Tobin, Michael’s Hair Body and Mind, Mississauga; and Michael’s Hair Body and Mind, Mississauga and Michael’s Hair Body and Mind (Team Collaboration category). PHOTOS: Salon Magazine STAFF
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salon events
Feather’s commitment to quality design and superior performance has made this razor the standard of the beauty and barber industry. It is the top choice among professional stylists around the world.
Metro Beauty Supply welcomes Davines’ Artistic Director Angelo Seminara Details: Hosted at Metro Beauty Supply’s educational facility owner, Frank Miraglia welcomed stylists and introduced Davines’ CEO and managing director Paolo Braguzzi, who offered a corporate perspective. including an overview of the company's sustainable beauty commitment. Through Davines’ Sustainable Beauty Day, a charitable initiative at salons where customers can receive a cut and styling for a donation amount, the company has partnered with The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation, an environmental charity that supports the social sustainability of communities worldwide through tree planting. When & Where: September 22 in Woodbridge, Ont. Highlights: Encouraging stylists to experiment with the colour techniques used in Davines’ Mother of Pearl Collection, artistic director Angelo Seminara showed how simple styling, such as plaits, can be used to create sophisticated looks. Along with an explanation of the colour formulation and application, from colour ambassador Edoardo Paludo, Seminara’s session culminated in a spectacle of innovative runway styles. PHOTOS COurTESy DuSTin nEWHOOk
Folding Razor Introducing a newly designed shaving razor head that takes the pressure off the blade for a close and safer shave.
Available throughout Canada (888) 965-2824 • www.JATAI.net 92
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Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply hosts Kevin.Murphy Business Education Event Details: Stylists spent their Sunday soaking up insightful sales and marketing tips for the salon at Join.Me, a Kevin.Murphy learning event that was offered through Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply. With guest speakers, including Sue Remes, a sales and marketing consultant with more than 25 years of experience in the beauty industry, and Tim Abney, executive Style.Master and Kevin.Murphy educator, stylists explored best practices for enhancing the sales opportunities within their salons. When & Where: September 15 in Toronto Highlights: Remes provided marketing strategies and thought-provoking business questions for stylists to bring back to their salon teams, while Abney taught the keen crowd how to incorporate the business acumen into day-to-day salon operation. PhoToS: Salon Magazine STAff
SHARING OUR EDUCATION WITH THE WORlD’S TOp HAIR pROFESSIONAlS FOR OVER 50 yEARS. Learn directLy from the team that perfected the sassoon method. for more information or the full sassoon academy north american schedule, visit sassoon.com or call 310-255-0011. 37 aVEnUE RoaD, ToRonTo, on m5R 2G3
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SALON EVENTS
Aveda’s Catwalks for Water Brings Style to Recycling Details: Teams of hairdressers and makeup artists from Aveda concept salons put their ingenuity to the test at Aveda’s Catwalks for Water contest. Teams created looks using only recycled or discarded materials. Salon Magazine staff was part of the judging panel and finalists took home Aveda Master Jam tickets, education vouchers and FixxRx tools. When & Where: September 15 in Toronto Highlights: Proceeds from ticket sales and fundraising efforts went to Aveda’s Earth Month partner WaterCan, a Canadian charity dedicated to assisting in the global accessibility of clean water within some of the poorest nations worldwide. Congratulations to the winners! PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA
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Canadians dazzle at Haute Coiffure Française show Details: Held in partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel, this year marked the biggest turn out that Haute Coiffure Française has ever hosted. For the first time, Team Canada, which included 57 artists, was invited to lead a show featuring three segments indicative of Canadian natural heritage including Winter Frost, Petroleum and Metallic Water. When & Where: September 15 in Paris, France Soundbite: “HCF president Francis L. Rhod was extremely proud of the breathtaking presentation. Art direction duo Pascal & Jérémie created the perfect canvas to showcase such incredible hair,” says Sylvie Livet of Haute Coiffure Française, Canada. PHOTOS COURTESY DiDiER ADAM
Visit SalonMagazine.ca for details on the latest educational events.
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n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3 Absolute Ad.indd 1
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13-10-03 9:51 AM
salon scoop
1
More For Men
3
Congratulations and good luck to Kirsten McIntosh, a freelance hairstylist based in Ottawa, who is a finalist at the 31st Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall in London, England.
2
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Pureology marketing director, Sheila Morin, Matrix general
experience. With the first location in RBC Centre of
New Distribution •
general manager, Mathieu Bouchard, L’Oréal Professionnel &
& Colt franchise offers an upscale barbershop
plans are to open a second Toronto location.
their brands. The changes at L’Oréal Professionnel & Pureology include Vincent Lemieux, L’Oréal Professionnel & Pureology
atering to well-groomed urban men, the Taylor
Toronto’s PATH, a popular underground walkway,
L’Oréal Professionnel announces new appointments among
manager, and Jack Ingraham, Redken marketing director.
5
Partners in Generosity Sexy Hair is partnering with Look Good Feel Better, a nonprofit organization that helps women undergoing cancer
ESP Salon Sales announces distribution of Schwarzkopf
treatment cope with appearance-related side-effects, for
Professional (SKP) in Alberta. For more than 20 years, ESP
a cut-a-thon called Caring is Sexy. The annual charity cut
has carried SKP lines in Manitoba and Saskatchewan, and the
was held in October across the United States and at eight
Alberta expansion currently includes three stores.
salons in Ontario.
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 3
photos:thinkstock
c
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“While I was going through my cancer treatment, I was determined to face cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good Feel Better I got the help I needed.” Free 2-hour cosmetic and hair workshops for women with cancer. SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 22 Issue 15 salonmagazine.ca
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SALON LAST LOOK
Celebrate the Season in Style Make every business opportunity count by giving your clients an added touch of holiday glamour.
Percentage of business that comes from women, according to David Raccuglia, creative director at MensDept and owner of Chicago-based Art & Science salons, which also means that during the holiday season, many are likely shopping for the guys in their life.
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I am a glamour girl through and through. I believe in the glamorous life and I live one.
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—Lady Gaga
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—Rossa Jurenas, platform artist and educator for Schwarzkopf Professional For more tips on organizing award-worthy phototshoots, check out “Picture Perfect” on p. 50.
HOLIDAY PLANNING Three ways to keep your salon business booming throughout the festive season.
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ADVANCE BOOKING Ask your clients about any special events they will be attending during the holiday season and offer to pre-book appointments to ensure they’ll always have a polished look. BE MORE SOCIAL Get clients inspired by posting your best holiday hair looks and hair inspiration on social media outlets and encourage other stylists at your salon to do the same. You may be surprised how quickly the word gets around! GIVE BACK Charity events may be interested in having a salon sponsor an on-the-spot styling area; which enables you to give back while connecting with potential clients.
PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY
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“Fashion styling should be kept simple. You might be inspired by the colours in a scarf or a beautiful necklace, so work with that.”
salonmagazine.ca
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