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SECRECTS TO HOLIDAY STYLING SUCCESS
TURN UP THE
glam #DREAMBIG 27TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS FINALISTS! NOVEMBER+DECEMBER 15 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
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will you create what’s next
Enter the American Crew All-Star Challenge, and find out if you have what it takes to win the ultimate, global men’s styling competition.
open for entries september 15, 2015 – february 17, 2016 americancrew.com/allstarchallenge
For inquiries please call 1.800.387.7980 © 2015 aMerican creW. all riGHTs reserVeD.
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the Payoff The American Crew All-Star Challenge is about being recognized as the best stylist for
WINNER: Trip to revlon
men in the world. The cut. The model. The photograph. Bring it all together to create your
Professional Brands World Show (Spring 2016), $1000 cash prize, $500 product prize, full page feature in select industry media.
ultimate interpretation of the American Crew man. We want the best stylist on the planet. One with a truly unique, artistic vision. One who understands what it takes to create a masculine, modern edge. And one who captures their masterpiece with the professionallevel art direction and photography. If you’ve got what it takes, start perfecting your style, because The American Crew All-Star Challenge is bigger and better than ever.
Everything you need to know is at: AmericanCrew.com/allstarchallenge
TWO RUNNERS UP: $500 cash prize, $500 product prize, feature in select industry media.
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NOVEMBER+DECEMBER.15 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 46
GET INSTA-GLAM
48
FACE TIME
50
KEEP YOUR BUSINESS BOOMING
Volume and ultra-glam updos: Your ultimate holiday styling guide
Best tips to take your client’s holiday makeup from day to night
Upselling, service add-ons and out-of-the-box salon offerings
52
COVER SHOOT CONFIDENTIAL Behind the scenes of our cover shoot with Moroccanoil educator and spokesperson, Kevin Hughes
54
84
COLLECTIONS Kevin Hughes; Revlon Professional Fall in Love; Claudia Cataldo; Rossa Jurenas & Damien Carney; Jarahs Hair; Michael Shire; Brian Gallagher; Richard Ashforth; Rob Gaspar; Mahogany Hair; F.A.M.E. Team; Toni&Guy
CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS The 27th annual Contessa Awards finalists are here!
ON OUR COVER:
Hair: Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil educator and spokesperson Makeup: Wendy Rorong Styling: Talia Brown Photo: Richard Dubois Photographed in Toronto exclusively for Salon Magazine
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FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING F.A.M.E. TEAM 2014: ELLENORA DEAN, DAFYDD RHYS THOMAS, LEIGH ANNE REGAN, SIMON TUCKWELL
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
EXPERIENCE THE COLLECTION AT OPI.COM #OPISTARLIGHT
LACQUER SHADES LEFT TO RIGHT: LOVE IS IN MY CARDS • RO-MAN-CE ON THE MOON • GUYS & GALAXIES • I’M IN THE MOON FOR LOVE • COSMO WITH A TWIST GIVE ME SPACE • CENTER OF THE YOU-NIVERSE • SUPER STAR STATUS • I DRIVE A SUPERNOVA • BY THE LIGHT OF THE MOON • COMET CLOSER • IS THIS STAR TAKEN? INFRARED-Y TO GLOW • LET YOUR LOVE SHINE • CE-LESS-TIAL IS MORE • PRESS * FOR SILVER • TWO WRONGS DON’T MAKE A METEORITE • NO MORE MR. NIGHT SKY
MODEL IS WEARING I’M IN THE MOON FOR LOVE
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ALL COLORS AVAILABLE IN NAIL LACQUER AND GELCOLOR
REGULARS
64
68
BRIAN GALLAGHER, GALLAGHER & HORNER, GLASGLOW, U.K.
KRISTY HODGSON, JARAHS HAIR, BERRI, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
18 20
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
22
SALONMAGAZINE.CA
25
HAIRLINES
84
CONTESSA GALLERY
88
PROFILE
90 92
90
NARCISSE & ECHO SALON, MONTREAL
62
ROSSA JURENAS AND DAMIEN CARNEY USING SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
EDITOR’S LETTER
This month at SalonMagazine.ca
Holiday styling essentials, your festive season makeup tool kit and all of the hottest new products
Taz Hair Co., Contessa 26 Finalist, Canadian Salon Team
Getting Schooled: Sharon Blain
INTERIORS Post-Industrial Mood: Narcisse & Echo, Montreal
BUSINESS Best practices for holiday scheduling into the January slump
93
EVENTS
97
SCOOP
98
BY THE NUMBERS
40
GLOW-GETTER: HOW TO PACKAGE YOUR TANNING SERVICES
60
CLAUDIA CATALDO, CATALDO’S SALON, CANBERRA, AUSTRALIA
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salonmagazine.ca
Eva Green for L’Oréal Professionnel
Introducing the biggest innovation since INOA
PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE SCIENCE
A LONG-LASTING IN-SALON TREATMENT THAT CAN BE PROLONGED AT HOME FOR UP TO 6 WEEKS!
THE REVOLUTION BEGAN OCTOBER 2015 Join the PRO|FIBER revolution on www.lorealprofessionnel.com To get PRO|FIBER in your salon, please contact your business consultant at 1 800 361-8017.
5 REASONS
EDITOR’S LETTER
TO LOVE THE NEW ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM
contessas
T
ime, energy and creative concepts, along with your heart, soul, sweat and maybe even a few tears: There’s a lot that goes into putting together a photo collection.Until I began
working here, I never consciously realized the scope of creative
SIMPLER NAVIGATION gets you the latest anti-aging, beauty and plastic surgery news faster!
artistry that’s a major part of the beauty industry. When you're following your passion, especially as an artist, there's always a part of you taht goes into your work, which can sometimes make it doubly difficult to showcase your work. Add in the stress—and thrill—of having your work judged for a Contessa Award and it’s not surprising that some might feel a little overwhelmed.
Read Elevate ANYWHERE with ISSUU. Android users rejoice!
At this time of year, Salon Magazine’s office is a hub of excitement, packed with some of the best artistry in the Canadian professional beauty industry. As editors, we have the fun of selecting collections that fill each issue, and it’s even more exciting to see the incredible body of work from hairstylists from across the country. What’s more exciting? Calling Contessa finalists. Nothing beats hearing the
Win amazing PRIZE PACKS!
cheers—and sometimes tears—of pure joy that come across the line when we share the news. Hearing a mix of overwhelming emotions is one of the best parts of this job, hands down. We can’t wait to celebrate with you at this year’s Contessa
Get the FACTS about cosmetic procedures with the improved PROCEDURE DIRECTORY. Locate a doctor for your next treatment in the FIND A DOCTOR section.
Awards gala on November 8 at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto. In the meantime, if you haven’t already, turn to page 84 for a complete list of our finalists, then go to SalonMagazine.ca and vote for the Fan Favourite Award. It’s going to be an incredible night you won’t want to miss, and I can’t wait to see you there!
Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.
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PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
1 2 3 4 5
CALLING
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 24 issue 15
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR
Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)
Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Ashley Kowalewski 416.869.3131 ext.119 ashley@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER
Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca ONLINE ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.122 nicole@salonmagazine.ca
’TIS THE SEASON FOR
W
EDITORIAL INTERN
Emily Smibert 416.869.3131 ext.112 editorialintern@salonmagazine.ca
giving
COPY EDITOR
Corinna Reeves CONTRIBUTORS
Paul Chmieloweic GROUP PUBLISHER
Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca
e work in a generous industry, and nothing reminds us
U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE
of the spirit of giving like the submissions for The John
Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Steinberg Award for Community Service. But selecting a
Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca
winner is like picking your favourite child: Every submission deserves
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca
this award for the best in charitable giving.
OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE)
Quite often, salons and barbershops are considered the pulse of
Karren Han
the community. Salon clientele help create powerful relationships
CIRCULATION MANAGER
Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca
that becomes a tightly woven and valuable tool when it comes to giving back to their community. People like to give—particularly to
EXECUTIVE BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR
Candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca
something or someone they are connected to, including their salon.
CHAIRMAN
Philanthropy and creativity go hand in hand in the salon industry.
Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca
From hosting fashion shows and carnival street parties to sponsoring
ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN
Pam Fulford
cut-a-thons and the local junior hockey league, the level of creativity
VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR
that takes place with fundraisers is brilliant, and the benefits of
Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca
fundraising are many.
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But it’s not just about raising dollars. Charitable giving fosters a salon environment that’s high on team spirit while inspiring the next generation of beauty pros. Interestingly, salon staff also say
A D D RE SS CH A NGE S Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca
that the ability to raise awareness and start the conversation for an
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important cause is paramount. Let’s face it: Some of these causes are pretty sombre, but we all know someone who has been affected
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and needs our help. And it reminds us all that salons not only make
SA LON M AGA Z INE
people feel good on the outside but also do good work that makes
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everyone feel beautiful. a program that supports women in their fight against cancer. With the holiday season upon us and the new year around the corner, many of you may give some thought to thinking of others, but our community efforts can and should extend well beyond a fundraising event. In fact, there’s no better way to start off the new year than by being the steward in your salon, starting the conversation with your team and establishing a charity effort for 2016.
Laura Dunphy Publisher
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PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM
At Salon Magazine, our charity of choice is Look Good Feel Better,
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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, ON L9R 1V1 Canada
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We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.
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“WHEN I MAKE MY CLIENTS SMILE – THAT’S REAL SUCCESS.” ------GOLDWELL STYLIST
Dimitrios Tsioumas -------
JUST LIKE YOU, WE WANT EVERY CLIENT TO ABSOLUTELY LOVE HER HAIR. THAT‘S WHY WE GIVE YOU THE PRODUCTS, INSPIRATION, AND EDUCATION THAT MAKE EVERY APPOINTMENT A SUCCESS. WWW.GOLDWELL.COM
WE THINK STYLIST
online at
THAT ’S A WRAP! Retailing around the holiday season is made much easier with gorgeous gift sets and limited-edition packaging. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see our editors’ favourites.
GO BEHIND THE SCENES ON OUR COVER SHOOT Any photo shoot is thrilling, let alone when it’s for our magazine cover! See behind-the-scenes snaps of our day
Our “So You Think You Can Style?” Perfect Platinum Winner! Congratulations to Rhianna Reddekopp from Langley, B.C., who won with her sleek platinum look. Find out which products she used to achieve this hue at SalonMagazine.ca.
SalonMag 22
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SalonMagazine
THE COUNTDOWN IS ON! You still have a few days to grab your Contessa Gala tickets! Can’t make the big night? Don’t fret: You can watch the live webcast from home (no ballgown required!) at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa-Gala.
See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!
Salon Magazine
PHOTOS: HAIR: RHIANNA REDDEKOPP, MAKEUP: ANDREA SALAZAR, PHOTO: DARIAN WONG; CUCCIO; HICHAM EID; MAJA HAJDUK, BRYAN LOCKYER, ANDREW HARRIS
on set shooting with Kevin Hughes for Moroccanoil.
SalonMagazine s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
INTRODUCING
ERUPTEK
EXPLOSIVE TEXTURE, EXPANSIVE VOLUME &
RESINTEK
HOLDABLE, REMOLDABLE, HYPER-SHINE
COMING JANUARY
www.facebook.com/SebastianProCanada ©2015 Procter & Gamble Inc., Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved
NEW
REVIVE
83% of respondents in an independent survey said that their hair felt thicker * after just
30 days.
Be A Hair Hero •Thicker, fuller, healthier-looking hair •Bosley Doctor Recommended BosRevive for Non Color-Treated Hair
* The accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the furnished data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and Scientific Hair Research, LLC’ s and its representatives disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use the data.
www.bosleypro.com For information call 1.800.BOSLEY1 www.bosleyp
We Support
©2015 Bosley, Inc. Beverly Hills, CA 90212 All Rights Reserved. Printed for Scienti Scientific Hair Research, LLC.
ESP Salon Sales: 1-800-667-2566 | Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd: 1-800-738-8666 | Star Bedard: 1-800-361-1978 | Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply: 1-800-387-2962
HAIRLINES NEWS
UNIVERSAL LANGUAGES
UNITED FRONT Redken’s new One United offers 25 benefits and a whole new campaign. Your clients want great hair, but they don’t always want to put the effort in with multiple products. Redken aims to give them all of the hair care benefits they need in one winning product with the new One United All-in-One Multi-Benefit Treatment. This lightweight leave-in spray does everything, from conditioning and detangling to priming for heat styling and taming flyaways for a fuss-free finish. The campaign uses five real-life influencers, including model Charlotte Di Calypso, model and designer Alexander Dominguez, actress Ashley Moore, musician and model Naleye Dolmans and musician, artist and model Rachel Trachtenburg for this multi-purpose,
Wella Professionals creates a new line of products and a global language of styling with EIMI. Do your clients #SpeakEIMI? Bringing the word even closer to home with the help of social media, Wella Professionals creates a new global language of styling with its lineup of products, EIMI. Inspired by the Greek phrase meaning “I am,” EIMI delivers uncompromising style for
Pretty in Pink Get the new glam with the Schwarzkopf Professional Osis+ Soft Glam lineup.
clients who want to express themselves in four
The trends of the past few seasons have changed
new products: Root Shoot Precise Root Mousse
the way we view glamour when it comes to hair,
for weightless lift, Dry Me Dry Shampoo for
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
street-style-inspired product.
taking a more natural turn. It’s no surprise, then, that
texture and reworkable styles, Sugar Lift Sugar
Schwarzkopf Professional launches its latest collection
Spray for Voluminous Texture to add texture and
from the Osis+ lineup, Soft Glam, that caters exactly
shine and Perfect Me Lightweight Beauty Balm
to this trend. Touchable and soft, smooth but not too
Lotion to tame, soften and protect. The next time
perfect, the done-undone finish can be achieved with
your clients come in for a head-turning look, ask
all four of the new products.
salonmagazine.ca
them “Do you #SpeakEIMI?”
PREP The Osis+ Soft Glam Prime Prep Spray detangles, prepares and protects strands for styling and blowouts that will give your clients touchable tresses. PLUMP Offer weightless volume with the Osis+ Soft Glam Plumping Shine Mousse, adding shine, body and UV protection. PRIMP A strong hold doesn’t have to mean sticky. Give your clients a super-touchable finish and all-day hold for their sweet styles with Osis+ Soft Glam Strong Glossy Holdspray. POLISH Finish your client’s style off right, free of frizz and flyaways, with the softening, smoothing and shinecreating Osis+ Soft Glam Smooth Polish Elixir.
n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
salon
25
SPONSORED CONTENT
HAIRLINES NEWS
THREE LOOKS, ONE TROPHY Unleash your inner Style Master with Revlon Professional.
Flex Your
Business
When it comes to the holiday season, your salon is likely a hub of constant activity. Rowena Berry, national business development manager for Schwarzkopf Professional, has plenty of tricks that will keep your business in full swing well into the new year.
For the sixth year in a row, Revlon Professional is ready to empower and inspire creative hairstylists with its call to enter the 2016 Style Masters international competition. Submit your black and white photo collection featuring three different looks with one cut on one model using products from the Revlon Professional Style Masters line. National winners will move on to face an international judging panel where nine finalists will be chosen and have a chance of taking home the grand cash prize and the Style Masters Gold Trophy. For a complete set of rules, category and deadline details or to find out more, check out
holiday rush has died down?
There is definitely a rush at this time of year. Pre-book your current clients, either at their previous appointments or by contacting them at least two weeks in advance. This will help ensure that you have the time set aside for them rather than having your schedule taken up by non-regular clients, including walk-ins. And don’t forget to also pre-book your client’s January and February appointments, too—it's a hectic time of year so clients will
StyleMasters.com/Contest.
Diamonds Are Forever Label.M gets
luxurious with its
Diamond Dust line.
likely forget unless you remind them. How can hairstylists keep their appointments moving on schedule at this time of year when it may be easier to get off track?
Remaining on time with your clients is key. It’s easy to be very casual and conversational with clients, especially when you have a rapport with them, but remember that this can be a stressful time of year for them and their time is precious. If you do fall behind, be proactive by letting reception know the situation—that way they can manage the process the moment your next client walks in.
How do you get your clients to feel like royalty when they step into your salon? Use products on them that are befitting of royalty, of course. Label.M’s new Diamond Dust line has a shampoo, conditioner and body lotion infused with—you guessed it—diamonds. The crown jewel complex includes microfine white diamond dust
Where can salon owners always improve to create the best
to add shine and
salon experience?
lustre to hair and
Tighten up your teamwork by encouraging your staff to look beyond what
skin, microfine black
is happening at their stations. Make sure your staff know that, if they have
diamond dust for
time between their appointments, they can offer to shampoo other clients
strength, champagne
to keep everyone on schedule and create a comfortable experience for
to remove buildup,
everyone at the salon.
white rose petal oil for hydration, and pearl powder and protein to add a silky soft finish and radiance.
To find out more about the ASK Academy, call 1-800-463-3081 or download the seminar brochure at schwarzkopf-professional.ca.
PHOTOS: REVLON PROFESSIONAL, LABEL.M
How can hairstylists keep their schedule well booked after the
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HAIRLINES NEWS
NEXT Dimension Nioxin’s 3D Styling collection gets a fresh facelift. While Nioxin is known for its technology that helps clients who are facing thinning hair, that isn’t all the brand does, and the 3D Styling line is a perfect example. Nioxin
your entries for judging and now
line a revamp, offering
it’s time to face your peers. The
up the same range and
Fan Favourite is a fun head-to-head
formulas—including
category where it’s just your friends,
Bodifying Foam and
family and fellow stylists voting for
Thickening Spray—
the winning collection. No judges, no pressure, so no worries! The
with some fresh new
Fan Favourite voting opens October 11, runs until October 25 and the
packaging, perfect for
winning collection will be announced at the gala on November 8. For
both clients with extra-
more information or to vote, go to SalonMagazine.ca/FanFavourite!
those without.
Biodegradable Is Beautiful
Here's how one company is changing the future of salon colour services.
Ready to rock American Crew’s All-Star Challenge?
Having celebrated its 20th anniversary, American Crew continues a strong history of innovation and seeks the very best in men’s styling, and this year, the photo-based competition is no different. Expecting thousands of stylists from around the globe to enter the All-Star Challenge
With an estimated 196,000 tonnes of salon-
in hopes of taking home the
produced foil waste found in landfills every
title—it’s recognition as the best
year, Biodegradable Beauty co-founders
men’s stylist in the world, after
Norm Wright and Frank Cini, both of Taz
all—American Crew challenges
Hair Co. in Toronto, created a product that would drastically affect the industry’s
stylists to be creative and showcase their interpretation of
global ecological footprint. The Toronto-
the American Crew man. With the
based company has engineered a natural,
right cut, model and photograph,
biodegradable salon foil replacement that not
you may have what it takes to
only converts the raw material directly into
compete alongside the best in
carbon dioxide when mixed with compost,
men’s styling and grooming from
leaving no trace of waste, but also produces the same colour service results as using a foil. The clear design allows colourists to check on colour processes without opening the application and requires less folding time for quicker services.
28
Crew Calling
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
around the world. Registration is open and full details are available at AmericanCrew.com/ AllStarChallenge.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: NIOXIN, ERIC TAVARES, REVLON PROFESSIONAL
thickening needs and
green
Don’t forget to vote for this year’s Contessa Fan Favourite!
You’ve styled, shot and sent in
has given its go-to styling
THINK
E H T D N A S... I R E N WIN
salonmagazine.ca
HAIRLINES NEWS
THE KEY TO HEALTHY HAIR Saryna Key Hair Therapy harnesses the
GO WITH THE FLOW Flow is a new hair care line in Canada that uses the key ingredient, water, in a unique way. Based on the principle that the purity of water will improve product performance, the company has built its own water treatment plant to ensure quality
power of African shea butter, comprised of 70
control for its Hyaline Water. Send your clients home with the InstantIntensity 30
per cent keratin and 30 per cent amino acids,
Second Treatment, which uses the brand’s signature H5 Architecture formula—a
to give your clients the healthiest hair possible.
blend of organic Abyssinian oil, natural plant extracts and proteins—to transform
All four of the lines—Damage Repair, Volume
their dry, damaged hair into silky tresses in under a minute!
Lift, Curl Control and Color Lasting—offer healthy, manageable hair with an oil, shampoo, conditioner, leave-in moisturizer, gloss spray and, the hero of the brand, shea butter, an intensive treatment that delivers softness, shine and a fully nourished mane. Want more reason to love the brand? It uses ethically sourced ingredients, recyclable packaging and a cruelty-free approach to its products.
Aloha, Awapuhi! Straight from the tropics, awapuhi is the
combined with keratin and quinoa proteins
secret ingredient behind One ’n Only’s
to create the line’s triple-strength complex,
new Island Essentials collection. This
which rebuilds and protects dry and
tropical flower extract, known for softening
damaged hair while restoring cuticles from
strands and providing moisture and shine, is
within the cortex of your client’s hair.
TOOLBOX
The oneinch floating ceramic plates provide easy glide without clamping hair.
“
Fuel Pro Flat Iron Fuel Pro Flat Iron’s digital preset damage control settings take the guesswork out of the proper heat setting for specific textures and services. I can choose one of the four settings—fine, coloured, thick or keratin—to determine the ideal working temperature and make life behind the chair more efficient.
”
– Steven Ernewein, Fuel lead Preset damage control options and auto shut-off minimize heat damage to both hair and areas around the iron.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
educator for Canada
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SARYNA KEY, FLOW, ONE 'N ONLY, FUEL
Temperature ranges from 140˚F to 450˚F for any hair type or texture.
salonmagazine.ca
HAIRLINES NEWS
style THE SEASON With the busy holiday season your clients are likely flooding in for the perfect party-ready styles. Here’s how to get them ready for the season with these holiday styling essentials.
TIED WITH A BOW
RE-GIFTING
For clients with fine,
Kevin.Murphy introduces
flat hair, Moroccanoil
Doo.Over, a dry powder
Thickening Lotion is their
finishing hairspray that
perfect pre-style prep
offers more than just hold.
product. This thickening
This hybrid spritz revives
lotion expands the hair
your client’s blowout by
shaft for fuller tresses
soaking up excess second-
for clients craving
day oil and product while
some body. While this
offering up volume and
product expands instead
hold for any style you
of lifts, by working it
create. Formulated with
through clean, damp
tapioca starch to soften
strands before giving
strands and Virginia
your client a volumizing
cedarwood to gently
blowout, you can give
remove any buildup on
your client’s mane an
strands, Doo.Over allows
extra boost. To give your
you to rework your client’s
client some holiday
style, then send it home
flair, Kevin Hughes,
with your client to extend
the brand's educator
their style. Joseph Zg,
and spokesperson,
a Kevin.Murphy
recommends a simple
Style.Master, recommends
and pretty upgrade: “A
an undressed ponytail
great alternative to fully
for the holidays: “Make a
up is a half-up, half-down
horseshoe section at the
look.” He explains, “Pull
top of the head and then
the sides back to the
attach the remaining hair
centre and secure with an
into a low ponytail at the
elastic, then braid hair to
nape of the neck, leaving
the end; ‘blouse’ the braid
a few pieces out on the
by pulling the outside to
sides. Flip your client’s head and spray Doo.
the braid into itself on
ALL WRAPPED UP
Over throughout the top
the side that hasn’t been
Redken Triple Take 32 is an extreme high-hold hairspray that will give
section, creating fullness
pulled out and secure
your clients any style they crave, whether it’s va-va-voom volume
and texture, and then
with a pin,” adding a petal
or a super-glam updo that will outlast any party moves they throw
add the top section to the
effect, which “creates a
at it. To get any holiday style started, Sean Godard, a Toronto-based
existing pony and pull
beautiful rosette, using
Redken artist, recommends spraying Triple Take 32 “liberally on the
loosely for a ‘60s feel.”
your client's hair as the
roots of damp hair and comb back into place.” To give your clients a
accessory.”
red-carpet-inspired look, add natural texture to the ends and “finish with another spray of Triple Take 32 for a modern, slicked-backmeets-texture look that's perfect for the holiday season.”
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL, REDKEN, KEVIN.MURPHY
make it larger, then roll
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TAKE IT OFF NEW DDL Direct Dye Lifter
with for Professional Colorists
Removes unwanted direct dyes and stains Success with or without developer Creamy, non-drip formula Mix with water for gentler lifting Creative control for special effects Single step freshly-activated formula DDL Direct Dye Lifter is: R 100% Vegan R Cruelty-Free R Made in the USA Formulated Without: R Ammonia R Formaldehyde R Gluten R Parabens R Fragrance
1.800.622.7332 | www.MalibuC.com/Prof
HAIRLINES NAILS
dress IT UP
34
It wouldn’t be the
1 On a prepared
in diagonal lines.
completely.
holidays without a
nail, apply one coat
3 Paint one coat
4 Allow polish to dry
super-easy, sparkly
of Don’t Get Elfed
of Better Not Pout
completely before
manicure for your
Up and let dry
over the entire
applying a topcoat.
clients, straight from
completely.
nail. Remove the
the China Glaze team.
2 Apply striping tape
tape before it dries
This encrusted treasure
1 On a prepared nail,
2 Apply three coats
residue. 4 Using
of OPI GelColor Top
brings a little glitz to
apply a thin coat of
of OPI GelColor I’m
ThinSet Nail Adhesive,
Coat and cure for 30
the holidays using
OPI GelColor Base
in the Moon for Love
apply Crystal
seconds. 6 Remove
OPI’s new Starlight
Coat and cure for 30
and cure each coat for
Chevrons, trimming
the gel residue.
collection, created by
seconds under the
30 seconds.
the sides as needed.
the OPI team.
OPI LED Light.
3 Remove the gel
5 Apply a thin coat
For clients looking
1 On a prepared nail,
geometric snowflake
above and below the
Show. 5 Finish with a
to get extra-snuggly
apply a thin layer of
design in the centre
snowflake design.
striping brush dipped
this season, opt for
Essie Base Coat,
of the accent nail with
4 On the remaining
in Shall We Chalet?
this holiday-sweater-
followed by two coats
Peak Show. 3 Using
nails, use the dotting
to create the perfect
inspired look, created
of Shall We Chalet?
a dotting tool and a
tool and striping
straight lines and
by the Essie team.
2 Using a striping
striping brush, create
brush to create a knit
angles.
brush, create a
a knit sweater pattern
pattern with Peak
Give your clients
1 On a prepared nail,
and cure. 3 Apply
faded look and cure.
the upper arch with
some festive glam
apply a layer of Base
Beauty of Perfection
4 Apply Gorgeous
Hard or Medium Gel
with this look, created
Gel. 2 Apply Devoted
to the centre of the
Decay to the edge
and cure. 6 Apply a
by Sarah O’Brien, Bio
Petal and lightly
nail. Lightly blend
of the nail, lightly
final layer of Gloss Gel
Sculpture educator
gradate the colour
into Devoted Petal
blending it towards
and cure.
for the Maritime
lightly towards the
and towards the
Beauty of Perfection
provinces.
centre of the nail to
opposite edge of
to complete the
create a faded look
the nail to create a
gradation. 5 Create
CND’s iridescent
1 On a prepared nail,
a fan brush with CND
CND Shellac Tundra,
CND Additives Crystal
Aurora winter
apply a thin layer of
Shellac Glacial Mist,
applying to half of
Crush and Whiteout to
collection makes this
CND Shellac Base
apply to two-thirds
the nail, and cure for
the top of the cuticle
cold-weather season
Coat and cure for 10
of the nail, angling
one minute. 5 Create
area, applying a drop of
look so, so good.
seconds. 2 Apply two
from the extension
the glacial pattern
CND Shellac Xpress5
thin layers of CND
edge towards the
using a stylus and
Top Coat between
Shellac Nordic Lights
cuticle, and cure for
CND Shellac Glacial
layers and cure for
to the entire nail,
one minute. 4 Repeat
Mist and cure for one
one minute. 7 Wipe
curing each layer for
the same technique
minute. 6 Using a gel
with rubbing alcohol to
one minute. 3 Using
using a fan brush and
flat oval brush, apply
remove top film.
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS: CHINA GLAZE, OPI, BIO SCULPTURE GEL, ESSIE, CND
N O RTH E R N LI G HTS
M E R RY B E R RY
S W EATE R W EATH E R
B EJ E W E LE D TR EAS U R E
W R A P IT U P
With the festive season upon us, it’s time to dazzle your clients’ tips with holiday looks created by some of the best in the biz.
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JOIN THE MASTER CLASS In business for over 20+ years in Canada, Great Lengths continues to be the most recognized Hair Extension Brand in the world. Our supreme hair quality, industry leading education and customer service sets Great Lengths apart. We are the global leaders of ethically sourced, fully traceable, non-chemically treated hair to the professional salon industry. We know what we do well and our dedication to improving our business helps us to maximize yours. Our aim is to focus on you, the stylist, helping expand your career and being your partner. Visit our website to learn more about our products and view our 2015 educational seminar schedule. #jointhemasterclass
www.greatlengthscanada.com
WINNER 2012
WINNER 2013
WINNER 2014
WINNER 2015 2014
HAIRLINES NAILS
BeauTIFFul Tips The Toronto
International Film
Festival came with a
there, getting in on the
Theory of EVOlution
celeb-sprucing action.
Bio Sculpture’s new EVO2 line will change
CND dressed the
the way you do soak-off services.
flurry of celebrities walking the red carpet. CND, Revlon Professional and American Crew were
When it comes to soak-off services,
EVO2 Oxygenating Base, colour
Kiernan Shipka and
technology has advanced in the past
coats and either the Glossy or Matte
costar Lucy Boynton,
few years, making it much safer for
Top Coats to cure. When it comes
for the premiere
both nails and skin to go under the
time for removal, clients just have
of February, while
lamp. But once one innovation starts,
to soak for 10 minutes before the
American Crew had
it doesn’t stop, especially with Bio
polish rolls off, preventing damage
its chance to make
Sculpture’s new EVO2 system. While
to the nails because of the flexible
Beasts of No Nation
the curing steps remain the same,
polyurethane formula. Plus, this mani
star Idris Elba look
it’s the formula and the removal
will last up to three weeks, so your
even better for
process that are the game-changers.
clients can get through the entire
his premiere.
Two minutes is all it takes for the
party season without touch-ups.
ALL TINSELLED OUT
actors, like Mad Men’s
LCN The six-piece Industrial Innocence collection marries seasonal neutrals with bright pops of colour.
36
MORGAN TAYLOR Gifted With Style invites clients to unwrap decadence with the season’s most notorious shades.
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
OPI The Holiday Starlight collection brings together celestialinspired shades, from sparkly slate No More Mr. Night Sky to midnight blue Give Me Space.
ORLY Why be famous when you can be Infamous like these six new shades, just in time for the your-time-to-shine season.
ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN Celebrate the season with extra sparkle and six new shades, including gold and teal, in the Tinseled collection.
CHINA GLAZE Leave it to this brand to release a bevy of blingedout shades, from high-shine sparkles to smaller doses of shimmer in the Cheers! lineup.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CND, BIO SCULPTURE, CHINA GLAZE, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, ORLY, OPI, MORGAN TAYLOR, LCN
tips of some visiting
salonmagazine.ca
HAIRLINES ESTHETICS
makeup BAG OF TRICKS Whether your client wants that go-to smoky eye or a pretty pink pout, we’ve got some of the best beauty launches to help them (and you) get through the holiday season of party-ready makeup.
SWIPE RIGHT Bodyography’s go-to Electric Lip Slides lip glosses, like this perfectly rosy Tickled Pink shade, are now available in a compact on-the-go format your clients will want. MINTY FRESH Aveda’s Nourish-Mint Smoothing Lip Color is already a beauty fave, but mix in the dark and moody Blackberry shade for the fall and holiday season and you have a winner. It's great for those clients who are willing to step out of their comfort zone just a bit and go for a bold, bold lip.
SMOKE SHOW This season, the smoky eye is being paired with white liner and highlighting to give clients that wide-eyed appeal. SST Cosmetics Power Stay Highlighting Stick in Glisten and Power Stay Shadow Stick in Plank are two must-haves to achieve this look with the creamy, blendable formula.
ALL EYES ON ME Part of the Jewel Thief collection for the holidays, Mirabella Second Skin Eyeshadow in Lavender Larceny adds colour and dimension to your client’s finished look. The mineralbased formula allows you to build as much colour as your clients crave, without creasing or flaking.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
HIGH BROW Even when your clients aren’t coming to you to get their makeup done, they can still achieve the perfect faceframing brow. Mirabella The Brow Pencil allows you and your clients to draw on small, hair-like strokes with one end and then blend them in with the brush on the other.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C
VELVET KISS Who says lip pencils have to be chalky and drying? Mirabella Velvet Lip Pencil in Vice is creamy and smooth, hydrating lips and adding a generous dose of this rich, holidayready hue.
salonmagazine.ca
KEVIN.MURPHY
DOO.OVER A HAIR-DOO IN A CAN! THIS VOLUMISING DRY SHAMPOO COMBINES VOLUMISING POWDER TECHNOLOGY WITH ESSENTIAL OILS & HOLDING RESINS TO CREATE LONG LASTING RESULTS. KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU
www.internationalbeauty.ca
www.TBBS.ca
Alterna, Babe, Bioelements, DS Laboratories, Dannyco, Ego, Johnny B, Kasho, Kevin.Murphy, Logics, L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Neuma, One Styling, OPI, PureOlogy, Tressa, REDAVID, SpaRitual
Affinage, Alterna, Bosley Professional Strength, ISO Johnny B, Joico, Kevin.Murphy, Macadamia Professional Mixed Chicks, Neuma, Saryna Key
11 stores to serve your professional needs in AB, SK & MB
4 stores to serve your professional needs in ON Call toll free 1.800.387.2962 or locally: 416.787.1211
Order Desk call toll free: 1.800.642.3818
HAIRLINES ESTHETICS
GET YOUR ON
glow
Three ways in salon tanning services will boost your esthetics menu. In the deep, dark cold of winter, it’s only natural that we’re missing our sun-kissed skin. Even still, many clients may not realize that sunless tanning isn’t only a healthier option, it’s one that has evolved past that iconic episode of Friends. According to Uvalux vice president of sales Elaine Bridgett, the main reason for that glowing orange hue of the mid-90s was the quality of the solution. “They were likely using less expensive products, and products that have an orange-yellow tone rather than the red-brown found in today’s sunless tanning solutions.” Whether they’re heading on vacation, planning a special occasion or simply crave a break from the cold, here’s how tanning can help you add extra revenue in the cold, dark days of January.
tech talk These days, even boutique salons can offer tanning services by investing in the right equipment. For most salons, Bridgett recommends a hands-off unit that offers the flexibility, so that you don’t have to hire extra staff, making it easy to maximize the return on your investment. That said, a hand held unit allows you to customize tans, however, you’ll need someone who is trained and skilled in application. This might be a great option at salons service during off peak hours.
on the upselling While it may not be top of mind for everyone, the colder weather season is the perfect time to talk tanning. Bridgett recommends offering monthly packages as a way of encouraging repeat clients. Depending on your client base, Bridgett suggest pairing tanning services with manicures, pedicures or other esthetics, as an alternate way of encouraging a second visit. Ladonna Sheridan, national sales manager of Fake Bake, says that planning services that encourage two visits before a special occasion or vacation will allow clients to get accustomed to the results, and in most cases that alone will have them returning.
retailing opportunities For clients who seem hesitant but interested, Bridgett suggests offering a free service. “Units today have the option of spraying the legs or face, which enables your client to see how far sunless spray tanning has evolved,” she says. Maintaining the look of their tan beyond the salon is also important and both Ladonna and Bridgett say that moisturizing is key, because hydrated skin will retain the tan best, which makes retailing both oil-free and dry oil spray products the homecare options your clients really need post tan.
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTO: HAIR:TONY WILSON, RAVEN HAIRCUTTERS, AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND, TEXT: ANNA LEE BOCHETTO, PHOTO:THINKSTOCK STYLING: JANE MOW, PHOTO: IAN SMITH; GOLDWELL, REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
who also employ makeup artists who may be able to provide this
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HAIRLINES COLOUR
After an almost-dizzying excess of platinum
pieces of hair to create a 3-D effect, giving the hair
and pastels, the hair colour pendulum is slowly
depth and creating volume with subtle differences
Vivids Black from Pravana
swinging back to the dark side.
of colour.
Add Vivids Black from Pravana to any
THE PENDULUM SWINGS BACK “I think the desire for darker hair started to emerge when most clients grew bored with cotton candy hair and pastels became more and more popular in the last year,” says Alex Chabot, artistic director for Matrix Canada. From a marketing standpoint, the cycle of trends is usually quite predictable. Once a hot and exciting look starts to trickle down to the masses, it’s time to move on to something totally new and desirable for the glitterati to endorse, own and show off. In the latest Fashion Week installments for fall/winter 2015/16 around the globe, the most
“You’re mainly working with level-three shades and creating a contouring effect by lightening the
in small amounts and mix well until
hair around the face, which is very flattering to a
you’ve reached your desired
complexion of any age, too,” says Martel. To do so,
depth of tone. As with all
she suggests gently lifting hair on the perimeter of
Vivids shades, it’s a direct,
the face with Blond Studio Freehand Techniques
semi-permanent hair
from L’Oréal Professionnel, which is ideal for
colour that you apply to
natural-looking results. In this case, you will be
clean, dry, prelightened
following the lightening procedure by adding a
hair and process for 20
jewel tone to create a beautiful multi-dimensional
to 30 minutes at room
effect. “No need to use foils for this,” says Martel.
temperature.
You simply hand-paint the crème on the hair using your artistry to determine where you want to add the contrasting shade on the darker hair.
celebrated designers—from Armani to Alexander
OMBRÉ 2.0
Wang to Marc Jacobs—are toying with the idea
Ombré is still widely requested by clients and, let’s
of bringing back black hair—in all shapes and
face it, pretty easy and quick to achieve in the salon.
finishes: messy, wavy, textured and even wet.
But the new twist to creating a more current look
“There is no denying that the Kardashians are
for this technique is to use darker shades to create
still playing a pivotal role in fashion and beauty,
a dip-dye look in any shade from blue-grey to mauve
whether you like them or not,” notes Chabot,
to emerald—stunning on a deep brown hue—at
“and they are now sporting much darker manes.”
the roots or the tips, depending on the overall look
Witness the ultra-shiny ebony hair of Kendall
you have in mind for your client. “Hair colour has
Jenner, who has just joined the ranks of the
become all about creating a customized look,”
highest-earning models. “And Kim’s hair went
says Martel. “It’s not just about one cookie-cutter
much darker after she dabbled in platinum last
approach to colouring.”
spring.” THE PERFECT BLEND But make no mistake: The newest on-trend crop of blacks isn’t an all-over colour application or a levelone shade. For this look to really make your name take off and your clients take notice, “You need to mix in different hues to create a multi-dimensional shade,” cautions Guylaine Marel, Contessa 2014 Elite Master Hairstylist winner. “If you only apply one very dark shade all over, the hair will end up looking like a wig or, worse, the old-school ’80s blue-black variety.” The trick to achieving those coveted new darks is to apply the colour tone on tone and lighten key
42
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
shade of Vivids you want to deepen
So you might want to use an ombré or a balayage technique to go darker and create beautiful darker lowlights of purple, mauve or emerald on an espresso-coloured base. Vadre Grigsby, artistic colour director for Pravana, has created some stunning ombré darkjewel-toned locks by adding new Vivids Black to her colour formulas. “With the new Pravana Vivids Black, I was able to create multiple shades of smoky grays, crisp carbons, deep shadowy violets and muted lavenders. Even just a few drops of black into an existing formula creates a new deeper, darker version of it—it's like finding the
Blond Studio Freehand Techniques Powder from L’Oréal Professionnel A unique formula with a thick, creamy texture for great adherence that encapsulates hair for precise freehand application. Perfect for balayage and all freehand lightening applications.
Soblur Color Adjuster from Matrix A professional multi-tasker for colour adjustment to create sombré effects and lighten hair in minutes without ammonia. “Think of it like an Instagram filter!” says Alex Chabot, artisic director for Matrix Canada.
TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, PRAVANA, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, MATRIX
BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK
edgy side of your formula.”
salonmagazine.ca
HAIRLINES NEWS
editor’s
TO INFINITY AND BEYOND L’Oréal Professionnel’s cult favourite, Infinium hairspray, has been given a facelift but keeps the same awesome formula. This spray offers that infinite-hold finish so your clients can get holiday-ready without any fuss. lorealprofessionnel.ca
PICKS
The season is changing and your roster of products should, too. Here are some of the latest and greatest that our editors are coveting right now.
SHINY PENNY Adding to its line of colour-protecting products, Joico adds two new hues to the Color Infuse Shampoo and Conditioner family to protect the colour of clients who are rocking a rich brown or sultry copper. joico.com
GOLDENEYE Give your clients the gold standard in colour care with the new Pureology Nano Works Gold Shampoo and Conditioner, infused with golden marula oil for rejuvenated hair. pureology.com
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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
DRY CLEAN ONLY For those clients following the no ‘poo movement who need some extra moisture, hand them the new Macadamia Professional Ultra Rich Moisture Cleansing Conditioner. macadamiahair.com
DRY SPELL Aveda introduces a new Dry Shampoo with natural powders that soak up oil and signs of second-day bedhead, leaving behind a clean, ready-to-style mane and light Shampure scent. aveda.ca
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C
ALL HANDS ON DECK It’s not just your client’s hair that needs some extra TLC when the temperatures start to dip but their skin as well. Eufora Urgent Repair Hand Cream has a whole roster of skin-loving ingredients to smooth, soothe and nourish dry and chapped hands. eufora.net
salonmagazine.ca
COAL HANDS, WARM HEART
DON’T GET ELFED UP
I SOIREE I DIDN’T DO IT
MIX AND MINGLE
BRAND SPARKIN’ NEW YEAR
BETTER NOT POUT
WINE DOWN FOR WHAT?
PEPPERMINT TO BE
UGLY SWEATER PARTY
SON OF A NUTCRACKER
BRING ON THE BUBBLY
BREAK THE ICE
Model is wearing Son of a Nutcracker.
GET
glam
INSTA
-
There are plenty of ways to give your clients a touch of glamour, without breaking their budget while still maximizing your salon’s profits. By Anna Lee Boschetto
B
etween office parties and holiday events, your clients are looking to glam up their look. Whether it’s to refresh their colour, recreate a classic chignon with a twist
or add extra volume to their locks, all of their heads will turn to you for your professional expertise. Here’s how you can customize your client’s hairstyle and boost your earnings by creating glamorous holiday looks.
According to Erin Montgomery, community manager for The Ten Spot in Toronto, the demand for glam during the busy holiday season is one of the reasons the company partnered with the Hudson's Bay Company to offer quick hairstyles and blowouts in a convenient location, in the heart of Toronto’s fashion and financial district. “The styles take 20 minutes, so if you have a lunch meeting, a date or an office party, you can refresh your look, even if you’re short on time,” she explains. Because each look takes less than half an hour, you’re able to accommodate more clients, which boosts your revenue without clients breaking their budget. STYLE M ATTE R S Creating an upstyling menu during the holiday season is a terrific opportunity for hairstylists to offer clients a choice when they are asking about upcoming events. This way, clients can choose their look and know they’ll be well coiffed without having to spend a lot of time (or money) in the salon.
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PHOTOS: HAIR:THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING F.A.M.E.TEAM FEATURING ELLANORA DEAN, DAFYDD RHYS THOMAS, LEIGH ANNE REGAN, SIMON TUCKWELL, ART DIRECTION: BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI, MAKEUP: SOPHIE COX, STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES
HIT THE GLAM SPOT
salonmagazine.ca
PUMP UP THE VOLUME As a Contessa Hair Extensions Artist finalist, Jennifer Reid explains that not many people have naturally thick hair that hold curls well. That means for clients who are longing for bombshell locks or undone waves and texture, hair extensions are the way to make the look happen. “With my clients, I’ll talk about what they’re doing
UP AND AWAY
for the holidays and find out whether they’re going on vacation. That will help me
For Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Artist, Michelle Oliver, upstyling—classic
determine the type of extension I’ll use.”
hair with a twist—is where it’s at for the holiday season. “It’s about creating an urban feel
STYLE M ATTE R S Reid is also quick to
so that hair is more of an accessory,” explains Oliver. She says that a chignon with a knot
bring her clients back to reality when
either at the side, low at the back or high on top and a French twist with exposed bobby
they show her pictures of celebrity
pins, make these styles current.
hairstyles, especially those who have
STYLE M ATTE R S For clients who want to achieve their holiday hairstyles at home, Oliver
hair extensions. “For upstyling especially,
suggests booking an extra 15 minutes for their appointment so hairstylists can walk them
having more hair to work with gives
through a styling step-by-step. Many clients will rebook a follow-up appointment to really
more shape, separation and texture,” she
nail down their look, which is a quick and low-cost way to increase your income. Happy
explains, adding that this is key in creating
client, happy hairstylist.
the currently popular undone looks.
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salon
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By Ashley Kowalewski
FACE
eyes “This season, we’re seeing the traditional smoky eye in a more contemporary light,” explains White. “The eye is worn in, from soft and subtle to dark and
skin
heavily rimmed grey palettes.” Create the
Seeing a barely there
smoky effect by “lining
approach to complexion
the upper and lower lash
on the runways,
with the pencil, then
White suggests fresh
smudge and blend up to
complexions for
the crease with a pencil
holiday looks, letting
tip brush.” For holiday
the colour do the talking.
parties, false lashes are
“I love applying skin-
always the finishing
smoothing primers under
touch.
foundation. Taking the time to properly prep
contouring
the skin before makeup makes all the difference.”
White says contouring
lips
shouldn't make clients look like celebrities
Prepping lips is always
with “war paint.” “This
a must, especially when
season, contouring
your client wants to go
varies from soft whispers
bold. “Primer is key to a
of blush to sharp
red lip, no matter what the
contoured lines,” says
shade, as it prevents the
White. “Choosing the
lip colour from feathering,”
right texture for the
says White. Create a day-
client’s desired look and
to-night look for your
blending are key.”
clients during their busy social schedule by pairing
cheeks
“smoky eyes with a nude
Cheeks shouldn’t be starting the conversation. As White explains,
glossy lip or a champagne
“Cheeks have been pretty soft, with colours sparingly applied. Even new
eye with a red lip,” for an
brushes are being designed to apply makeup in a wisping fashion.” White
updated yet classic
says a less-is-more approach works well: “Hold your blush brush at the
party look.
bottom of the handle for more application control.”
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PHOTO: MAKEUP AND HAIR: MELANIE WHITE,TAZ HAIR CO., LONDON, ONT., PHOTO: JASON BROWN
TIME
Past Contessa finalist and makeup artist Melanie White from Taz Hair Co. in London, Ont., has all the best tips to take your clients from day to night and have them looking festive in no time.
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
AN EXQUISITE BLEND OF THREE OILS THAT AWAKEN THE BEAUTY OF THE HAIR.
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Keep Your
Business Booming Boost your revenue with added services that your clients are craving in order to show off a glammed-up look straight into the new year. Here’s the rundown on how you can give your salon a healthy boost right now! By Yasmin Grothé
Marketing experts say consumers tend to be a bit more relaxed in terms of spending when end-of-year festivities are right around the corner. In fact, we all indulge in a little gingerbread latte here and maybe a pair of glitzy shoes that caught our eye while shopping for the kids over there. And just like you, your client is now open to treat herself to a few little extras. But, like everything else, it’s all about presentation. According to Ramsey Sayah, owner of Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa, which boasts a booming business, “You have to be cautious about upselling services and products to clients. It always depends on their personality and what they really want in the end. You shouldn’t try to go over the 30-dollar mark in extra services. Little perks that are 10, 15 or 20 dollars work well. Anything higher and you will be perceived as greedy. And you certainly don’t want that if your aim is to continue to work with a stable, trustworthy clientele.” If offering extras traditionally takes place during the consultation, some brands and salons are now experimenting with the idea of including them as the client is moved along from one service to the next (sinkside, technical, styling). “The idea is to sell a look instead of individual services in order to boost your
director at L’Oréal Professionnel. “The launch
Sayah says it’s never been a better time to
of our new Pro Fiber collection is totally
be a colourist since the days of the one-colour
in line with this philosophy. The in-salon
look are long gone. “Now that we’re seeing
treatment (sometimes included in the colour
a variation of ombré and balayage—with
service) is also used at home in order to
darker roots or tips, depending on the look
increase the value of the professional service
you and the client want to achieve—this is
and augment retail sales. And, because the
where these specialty colour services really
quality of the hair is instantly enhanced,
make you stand out as a professional since
the client is very receptive to the idea of
this can’t be achieved at home.” According
purchasing the product for herself.”
to Sayah, “being able to create a highly
Multi offer
customized look makes you the absolute hair and fashion expert, and this is something
“Every time you greet a client at your salon
consumers thrive on when they come
you need to step out of your routine and think
to the salon.”
of how you can customize the experience for her,” says Stéphan W., a Montreal-based hairstylist. “And you always have to aim to offer a premium service, even if you think you already know what she wants or not. Sometimes a long, relaxing sinkside massage is great, but it’s even better if she can see the results on her hair immediately.” That’s exactly where a service like Malibu C fits in. What’s great about Malibu C is that every single client can benefit from it because we all have mineral buildup, which dulls colour or makes hair look lifeless. Even better, “The vegan ingredients in the product bring the health factor into the equation, which is something more and more women are looking for,” stresses Stéphan W. “Having beautiful healthy hair really has no price.”
revenue,” says Mathieu Bouchard, marketing
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PHOTOS: SALON DAEUVILLE, NOVA LASH, THINKSTOCK
Upsell the smart way
Dish out the details Claudia Iacono, owner of Salon Deauville in Montreal, has a sharp mind for business and does not hesitate to go well beyond the regular salon offerings to make sure her clients feel pampered, like the Porsche driver service. “It’s actually my car and my husband is the driver,” she explains, “But our clients love it! It makes it easier for them to come to the salon and they don’t need to worry about taking taxis for about the same price but with a whole lot more style!” Jewelry retailing is another luxe aspect of her salon and Iacono replenishes her accessories section every two to three weeks, “to keep the selection fresh and exciting, in tune with the calendar.” Ongoing communication with your clients is also important. “Always reach out to clients to remind them they should book an appointment,” says Sayah. “We send out newsletters and texts every six months if they haven’t come to the salon. Once you’re in our system, we never let you go!”
S
Smart Add-Ons Simply making your holiday specials known to your clients with
shaping and shiatsu head massages). “This strategy also allows us
mirror signage is a great way to start the conversation about
to elevate the level of service while remaining affordable for the
additional services. Here are five ways that salons are making the
client,” explains Sayah. Sayah also recommends offering services
most of the holiday season by adding on new sales opportunities.
like Luxe Oil from Wella Professionals, which makes hair shiny and supple and protects the natural keratin.
1. QUICK BITES “Everything in our in-salon café is homemade from our own
4. ENHANCED MAKEUP ARTIST
recipes at my mother-in-law’s bakery from our own recipes, and
Specialty eyelashes are particularly well suited to the holiday
we have specials every day,” says Iacono. “Our café is so popular
season. “This is a great time of year to transition clients to
that even people who work in the neighbourhood come in for their
upgraded services that they will fall in love with and stick with
takeout lunch.”
in the new year,” says Stefanie Thurman, a NovaLash brand
2. BOUTIQUE EXPERIENCE “We bring in new merchandise in our boutique every week. We shop in L.A. and in Europe and also feature exclusive designer clothes that have tons of fashion appeal. During the holidays, we also carry those really hot items that fly off the shelves, like fur vests that are great gifts.” 3. MICRO SERVICES Texture Hair Salon offers 20-minute add-on
ambassador and Billion Dollar Brows artist. “If your lash studio carries NovaLash NovaMinx or NovaLash American Volume lashes, have them try it for the holiday season.” 5. BONDING MOMENT “Suggesting a bonding service like Olaplex is a great idea to supplement your income, too, while taking care of your client’s hair," says Stéphan W. “More often than not, your client won’t mind spending an extra $25 if she knows her hair will look amazing. It’s a win-win.”
services for $20 (makeup touch-ups, brow
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ON INSPIRATION My ideas come from many places, art and photography. There’s a lot of research in other countries and drawing inspiration from something that might catch my eye, like the texture or colour in a photo. I love when you feel the mood of a photo.
BEHIND THE SCENES
ON-SET SOLUTION Trust your gut instinct. Sometimes the direction can come from a photographer or creative designer if it isn’t reaching his or her vision. You have to be very flexible when doing editorial work.
Cover Shoot Confidential By Anna Lee Boschetto Salon Magazine spoke with Moroccanoil’s educator and spokesperson, Kevin Hughes, for his inspiration, troubleshooting on set and top essentials for creating winning looks.
PRO PICKS A must for editorial work is a good hairspray, like Luminous Hairspray, that won’t flake or leave any residue. The new extrastrong formula brushes out easily and can be used for many looks, including curls, slicked hair and adding texture. You are changing hair so often during an editorial shoot, you can’t have any flakes show up in the hair. S
ON HOLIDAYS I am originally from New York, and, for me, the most important thing is to be with family, so I am always home with family over the holidays. Oh, that and food!
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TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTOS: HITCHAM EID
CHANGE MAKER When there are people on set waiting on you, you have to be able to change the hair quickly.The key part is spending time in the morning with the most time-consuming look and then building that around the rest of the day. For instance, if you were going to do a wet look, you would always try to keep that for the last shot. NOW TRENDING For fashion, it’s definitely centre parting, soft and natural hair and adding a bit of polish. You’ll also see a trend in sleek, shiny hair, as well as one for an intricate graphic ponytail.
s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a
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Moroccanoil educator and spokesperson Kevin Hughes adds a touch of charm with a modern, updated approach to classic holiday styling in this Salon Magazineexclusive photo shoot.
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Isn’t SHE
lovely
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Hair: Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil educator and spokesperson Makeup: Wendy Rorong Styling: Talia Brown Photos: Richard Dubois
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Revlon Professional Fall in Love Collection Autumn–Winter 2015–16 Artistic and creative director: Miguel García Cotado Photos: David Dunan
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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for love of country The true embodiment of countryside chic, this Revlon Professional collection breathes a little Britain into natural tones and sensual yet sophisticated hairstyles.
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Hair: Claudia Cataldo, Cataldo’s Salon, Canberra, Australia Colour: Sheldon Brown Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Photos: Andrew O’Toole See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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With throwbacks to notorious decade styles taking on a modern twist, this collection reaches new heights with on-trend pops of colour.
L BE
E R O R
T RE salonmagazine.ca
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Between cover shoots and presentations, this duo created a dynamic mix of colours and textures with an ultraglam feel and their signature flair.
Hair, colour and photos: Rossa Jurenas and Damien Carney using Schwarzkopf Professional Makeup: Whitney Heirwegh Styling: Adrien Arnieri
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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CREATIVE
INTERLUDE salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Kristy Hodgson, Jarahs Hair, Berri, South Australia Makeup: Meggie Maper Styling: Milana Scerbakova Photos: Carl Keeley
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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the ethereal
CHANGELING Inspired by the wildcat, this collection celebrates its playful yet mysterious character with classic silhouettes and delicate, touchable textures.
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Expert precision is the name of the game with this masterful colour technique, showing off all the shades we need for the season.
Finalist, Contessa 26 Master Colourist of the Year: Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon & Spa, Toronto Makeup: Robert Weir Styling: Annie Lam Photos: Kale Friesen See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Modern flair salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Brian Gallagher, Gallagher & Horner, Glasglow, U.K. Makeup: Clare Read Styling: Clare Frith Photos: Andrew O’Toole See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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This collection is a throwback to the glamorous ‘70s with metallic details, blunt fringes and choppy cuts.
liquid
METAL salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Richard Ashforth with Saco Creative Team, Saco Hair London, London Makeup: Marco Antonio Styling: Serena Gili and Nafisa Tosh Photos: Colin Roy
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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MODERN MUSE Flawless cutting and texture meets its match with this collection’s play on neutrals and a smoky colour palette. salonmagazine.ca
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Shadow Play
Haunted beauties are given modern cuts and texture with a classic portraiture feel in this dark but alluring collection.
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year: Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Makeup: Noelle Hill Styling: Rob Gaspar Photos: Ara Sassoonian
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Hair and colour: Mahogany Creative Team, Mahogany Hairdressing, London and Oxford, U.K. Makeup: Fabio Gomes Styling: Chloe Holland Photos: Nessi See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Radiant colour contouring and clean lines make these classic portraitures a dramatic affair to remember.
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colour
tease
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glamourgirl Effortlessly chic street-ready styling meets va-va-volume in this collection that’s wearable and oh-so-feminine.
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Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2014: Ellenora Dean, Dafydd Rhys Thomas, Leigh Anne Regan, Simon Tuckwell Art direction: Andreas Stavrou (GHD) and Bruno Marc Giamattei Makeup: Vanessa Collins Styling: Kaz Jones Photos: David Mannah
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Statement-making cuts, styles and colours shake up the traditional ideals of beauty to show off a new generation of tastemakers.
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RENEGADE CALLING salonmagazine.ca
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Hair: Toni&Guy Australian Artistic Team, Toni&Guy, Paddington, Australia Makeup: Mikele Simone Styling: Lydia-Jane Saunders Photos: David Mannah
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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CONTESSA GALLERY
Contessa 26 Finalist, Canadian Salon Team
Daniel Naumovski, owner of Taz Hair Co., is a veteran in the industry and has his hands full balancing time in the salons, his work as a L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist and time at home with his family.
1
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECNI.ART CONSTRUCTOR
his isn’t the first time that Daniel
explains that going into shoots now, he is
Naumovski, owner of Taz Hair Co. in
“more prepared with concepts and puts a
Toronto, has entered the Contessa
little more thought [into the shoot]." He says
Awards. So it’s no surprise that, over the
that you can start off with an idea or concept
years, he has streamlined his process and
in mind, but once you get on set, things
taken a different, more relaxed approach to
may change and you have to let that happen
creating a collection. When entering a salon
organically to get a strong finish.
team category, he admits that “it can be
Precise instrument
difficult because everyone has his or her own visions and ideas,” but over the last 25 years in the industry and 19 years as the owner of Taz Hair Co., which has grown to three locations, he has mastered the process of selecting a great team.
his precision cutting, which he explains is one of his favourite techniques to incorporate into his collections. While it wasn’t the inspiration for this particular shoot, it showcased his work more than ever. “I love doing precision cuts, having a sharp, clean, almost-perfect line,”
“When I first started shooting [collections], it
he explains. “With everything being digitized
was so time-consuming: You had to prep your
these days, you can’t tell what’s real, but even
models and test the lighting with a Polaroid,”
if there’s a strand out of place, I don’t want it to
he explains, citing this understanding of how
be touched up in the photo.” It’s this precision
the process has changed for his appreciation
cutting and meticulous nature that he wants to
of how shoots can be completed now. He
stand out, not the photo retouching skills.
s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5
This hairspray provided shine, smoothness and texture to really show off those precision lines.
One of the hallmarks of Naumovski’s work is
Gaining perspective
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2
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECNI.ART FIX ANTI-FRIZZ
S
3
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL MYTHIC OIL
It’s no surprise that this was a finishing-touch product, adding a smooth, shiny finish to the looks, particularly with the precision cuts.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; HAIR: DANIEL NAUMOVSKI, TAZ HAIR CO., TORONTO; MAKEUP: KATIE FOSTER; PHOTO: NATASHA GERSCHON; PHOTOS: L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
T
Taz Hair Co.
The Taz Hair Co. team used this before flat ironing the hair, adding hold to the style without compromising the integrity of the precision cut.
salonmagazine.ca
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AHEAD OF THE CURVE
2016 FINALISTS CANADIAN SALON TEAM Blushes, Ottawa, Ont. Civello Salon, Toronto Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Local B, Montreal Ölab Coiffeurs, Montreal Salon Pure, Montreal Suki’s, Vancouver Toque & Cie, Victoriaville, Que. Zinc Hair, Vancouver
ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Domenic Commisso, Fiorio Square One, Mississauga, Ont. Anthony Crosfield, Union Salon, Vancouver Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Domenico Tomei, Fernando Cellini Hair Salon, Ottawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont.
MASTER COLOURIST Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Mas’oud Salon, Toronto Rhianna Reddekopp, Terra Casa, Langley, B.C. Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg
CANADIAN COLOURIST Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont. Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody, B.C. Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto
SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Simone Pettigrew, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont. Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Marilyn Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.
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TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST
ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST
Cynthia Boisclair, Oxygen Coiffure, Drummondville, Que. Mathieu Hubert, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.
Curtis Anweiler, Collektive Hair Inc., Edmonton Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Beauty, Edmonton Beverly Robertson, Influence Salon, Calgary
MEN'S HAIRSTYLIST Matty Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, B.C. Maki Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Tyana Nichole, Pop Opera Salon, Vancouver Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont.
AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Alexandre Melançon, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto Stéphane Scotto di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal Ivy Tatlock, Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C.
MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Soyeon Jin, Pomp & Proper Salon, Vancouver Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST Chantel Allen, Pro Club 11, Edmonton Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Lindsay Gray, Define Hair Design, Burlington, Ont. Jennifer Reid, Chatters Hair Salon, London, Ont. Sonia Yarkhani, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto
MAKEUP ARTIST Noelle Hill, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Bree Powell, Makeup by Bree, Toronto Virginie T. Simard, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Rita Stirpe, Makeup by Rita Stirpe, Woodbridge, Ont. Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Salon Pure, Montreal
CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Valerie Ducharme, Valerie Ducharme, Laval, Que. Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Claire Mifsud, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Naomi Misu, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair and Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta.
NEW HAIRSTYLIST Étienne Cloutier, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont. Brittany Ostash, Axis Hair Salon, Vancouver Sandra Perovic, Ignite Hair & Beauty Lounge, Vancouver David Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.
ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Jelena Frolov, Chatters Hair Salon, St. John’s, N.L. Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Angela Lockert, Tangerine Hair, Charlottetown, P.E.I. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon & Colour Bar, New Glasglow, N.S.
BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Maki Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough Thelma Bento, Taz Hair Co., London Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Qi Salon, Toronto Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa
QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Nadia Abouwaked, Salon de Coiffure Effusion, Montreal Gilles-Bernard Brassard, Tonique Beauté SPA, Chicoutimi Jean-Sebastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Geneviève Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Eric St-Jean, Salon Saco Laval, Laval
SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Tara Keating, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask. Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Crystal Dawn Malchuk, Hair Takers, Brandon, Man. Josie Vilayvanh, Freelance, Winnipeg Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg
SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Blueberry Hair Salon and Spa, Oakville, Ont. Dean Delmonte & Company, Toronto Kozeta Salon, Toronto Maison Le Drew Costello, Toronto Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C.
JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Amici Spa Inc., Markham, Ont. Artists Salon and Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont. Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Storm Hair Group, St. Catharines, Ont.
STUDENT/APPRENTICE Kaitlin Belland, Rock Paper Shears Hair Studio, Edmonton Thalia Claveria, W.A.C. Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Elizabeth Maximenko, Hairspray ‘N Gloss, Toronto Michael Sauvagoet, Donato Academy of Hairstyling and Aesthetics, Mississauga, Ont. John Seo, Taz Hair Co., Toronto
PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK
CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Stacey Abdella, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert, Alta. Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. John Jen Hoe Chong, Harrow Hair Company, Edmonton Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Mandy MacFadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont. Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.
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SALON PROFILE
Getting Schooled After 50 years in the industry, Australian hairstylist Sharon Blain is still learning more and always refining her craft. By Anna Lee Boschetto to be creative, and hopefully my students
children, so my siblings had no
are excited.
idea what I did for a living,” says
Sharon Blain with a laugh. With her siblings in attendance, when she was was honoured with a presentation that included words from fellow hairstyling legend Vivienne Mackinder at the 2015 Hair Expo Australia, there was no mistaking the significant role their sister has had on the professional hair and beauty industry. Salon Magazine: Why is that many people don’t see the industry as the creative one it is? Sharon Blain: At the end of the day, many people don’t see hairdressers as anything more than hairdressers. I challenge myself to defy the odds and do something with hair that takes on a different medium. I look at the craft and am always thinking about what I can do with fabric or paper, and that often turns to hair. SM: So how does this transformation that’s an art form happen for you with a collection? SB: For the infinity collection, we started to create the looks with hair and used spray glue; then we cut and moulded the hair as we wanted it to be. I worked on it for six months before finally shooting it. It’s like an artist with a canvas and paints. It’s creating an image like an art form. It’s not to be worn but rather
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SM: Who inspires your work these days? SB: Vivienne Mackinder, for sure. Angelo Seminara does a lot of interesting pieces. And definitely Antoinette Beenders—I’ve always thought she does some incredible work. For me, the late Alexandre de Paris identified classic work in his purest form. If you went to his academy today, you would be learning the sleekest work. SM: How do you begin planning a collection and where do you take your initial ideas? SB: For me, Pinterest is a big thing. I spend 30 minutes each day and see what I like on different sides, especially when I’m about to work on a new project. Also, I take inspiration from fashion. I can’t create a collection until I know what they are wearing. And I always need Italian Vogue. SM: How did you evolve from a hairstylist to an educator? SB: In my early years, I was a competitive hairstylist, so I learned a lot. These classic skills really crossed over into everyday work in a salon. As the years went on, I thought, if I can train people in these skills, they can do anything. After 43 boot camps, we are constantly looking at how we can change each one to make it better.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHARON BLAIN
“I
’m from a large family of seven
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SM: Why did you focus on upstyling? SB: There was a gap in the market for hairdressing. I could always relate to those skills of setting, teasing and blow-drying because that was what we did in the salon every day. I learned those skills very early on and I realized that I could take elements from that and show how to do things more simply. It’s really a no-brainer; it’s all about breaking down a style, one section at a time, and creating a plan. You can’t simply go on a prayer and a hope. I even see non-hairdressers coming to our classes—for instance, creative people or makeup artists who realize that it’s helpful to have these skills when you’re on set. SM: How have celebrities helped to shape the industry? SB: It has challenged hairstylists to learn different looks—I think that’s why our classes are so popular. Clients identify with certain people who have really rocked a look, like Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani. I think we’ve done the whole flat ironed look and there has been nothing really going on. I love how all people like Kelly Osbourne even. They have done a lot for our industry.
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SALON INTERIORS
Details: Opened 2011 Design: Henri Cleinge, architect Space: 1,300 square feet Team: 10 employees 8 stylist/technical stations 5 sinks Brands: Goldwell Kevin Murphy RenĂŠ Furterer
PHOTOS: LAURENT GUERIN
Website: narcisse-echo.com
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca
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salonmagazine.ca
Post-Industrial Mood The concept of the post-industrial design of this award-winning Montreal salon, Narcisse & Echo, is a modern interpretation of the Greek myth of Echo and Narcissus. By Yasmin Grothé
C
o-owners Line Lebrun and Roxane Cheibes have been working alongside for over 20 years and have been business partners for 11. Both have a
flourishing client base but play different roles in the salon. Cheibes is more involved in managing the floor staff and Line takes care of running the business smoothly and efficiently. But key decisions are always made as a close-knit team. The architect they worked with to create the salon’s new image loved their idea of timeless decor and he suggested simple and sturdy materials with a raw edge and minimal transformation, such as stainless steel, wood and the extremely long velvet curtains that hang from the 20-footplus ceiling. They not only add a regal, sensuous touch to the sparse space but also help muffle sound. “Our clients always receive a long, relaxing sinkside massage, so we needed to create a tranquil, calming environment,” says Cheibes. TIMELESS DECOR The salon, which is located in a university neighbourhood, has a contemporary art gallery vibe. “We love this space because it’s quite versatile and very easy to transform into a class or a photo shoot set-up; it’s more of a work studio than a traditional salon,” says Cheibes. A SPACE FOR ART And even if they have less time than before to attend education events since opening their salon, Cheibes and Lebrun make sure they are always surrounded by creative types who love working in this serene yet inspiring environment.
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SALON BUSINESS
Ahead of Schedule How do some salons staff and schedule their services during the busy holiday season and into the slow January slump? We’ve got the pros and cons of each so you can make the right decision for your salon.
Cancellation Policies PRO: While most salons don’t often need to exercise their cancellation policies with regular and devout clients, they’re a necessary evil during peak times. As Timothy Kuo, co-owner of Salon Haze in Vancouver, explains, “The salon has a 48-hour cancellation policy for services that are two hours or more. We inform clients of this policy and take down within that time or are a ‘no-show,’ we charge them $100.” Kuo adds that it helps “weed out clients who aren’t serious about their appointments.”
Schedule Switches
Closing Up Shop
PRO: With an influx of clients coming in for
PRO: Frédérick Russo, co-owner of Panache
colour touch-ups and pre-party hairstyles,
in Montreal, is one of the salons that closes
having some wiggle room for walk-ins and
for five to 10 days after the busy holiday
CON: While you hope you won’t have to
potential new clients is always a good idea.
season. While it’s not a conventional choice,
use the cancellation policy, especially on your
Kuo says, “We will extend our hours during
it works for this space: “After the rush of
loyal clientele, it could have repercussions if
the holiday season and have a full staff on
[the holidays], this gives our stylists a break
you’re not willing to budge and deal with each
the schedule every day for the two weeks
so they can spend more time relaxing with
client on a case-by-case basis. If a regular
leading up to the Christmas break.”
friends and family.” He also adds that this
client has something come up but is willing to reschedule within the week, consider letting it slide instead of potentially driving away your steady business.
CON: “We find some clients avoid getting their hair done during the holiday season and prefer to come after because it’s quieter in the salon,” says Kuo. This helps spread out the business more evenly into the slower January months. While adding extra hours
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gives the salon an opportunity to take on other projects, explaining that “by closing just a few days in January, we can focus on small maintenance projects like flooring and painting, which would not be possible otherwise.”
during the busy season can be good for
PRO: The downside to closing your salon
walk-in clients, sometimes it can amount
for a few days is the toll not only on business
to overstaffing. Instead of sending stylists
but also on your stylists. As Russo explains,
home or changing the schedule around, Kuo
“We noticed that a hiatus that’s too long
will take this time (both in December and
becomes an irritant for stylists who don’t
January) to take advantage of doing other
want the time off,” mostly because they’d
things in the salon: “If there’s some downtime,
rather work and get their paycheques. He
there’s always something that can be done
reiterates that this is usually only possible for
in the salon, such as organizing, cleaning or
smaller salons, but it also depends on how
practising on mannequins to improve
many clients you have coming through in
their skills.”
the slower months.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK
their credit card information and if they cancel
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SALON EVENTS
TIGI World Release
Details: TIGI World Release 2015 took place at the Aria Resort & Casino in Las Vegas on August 24 and 25. This two-day event brought together 2,500 industry attendees and showed off the brand’s latest trends and cut and colour techniques with look-and-learn education, as well as upcoming launches and innovations. TIGI pulled out all the stops for the day-long creative presentation, which included interpretations of each of the brand’s lines and what they represent: Bed Head, Bed Head for Men, Catwalk, Copyright Colour and S Factor. When & Where: August 24 to 25 in Las Vegas PHOTOS COURTESY OF TIGI
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SALON EVENTS
Revlon TIFF #RevTheRedCarpet
Details: Revlon Professional, along with CND and American Crew, brought the glam to the Toronto International Film Festival this September with #RevTheRedCarpet2015. Introducing CND’s Aurora holiday collection and Orofluido Asia, the beauty bar and American Crew men's grooming station left everyone feeling like a superstar. When & Where: September 10 to September 20 in Toronto PHOTOS COURTESY OF REVLON PROFESSIONAL
L’Oréal Professionnel Pro Fiber Launch, Vancouver
Details: Top L’Oréal Professionnel salons came out in full force to witness the launch of Pro Fiber, an innovative new treatment and retail hair repair option for salons. Held at Suki’s South Granville location in Vancouver on September 24 included a presentation and live model demo featuring Mathieu Bouchard, director of marketing for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada and Alicia Hamagishi, professional development manager. When & Where: September 24 in Vancouver PHOTOS COURTESY OF L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL
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SALON EVENTS
SALON EVENTS
Backstage at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016
Details: As the temperatures dip, we’re already looking ahead to the trends of spring/summer 2016. Eufora stole the spotlight at Katie Ermilio, offering a breath of fresh air with the chic and simple base knots created by lead artist Mirza Batanovic to go with the designer’s athletic-inspired show. This understated style was a trend throughout the week, demonstrated by other designers and shows, such as Wella Professionals, Unite, Oribe, Macadamia Professional, Moroccanoil and TIGI. To see more NYFW coverage and get some of the runway looks, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Hair. When & Where: September 10 to 17 in New York
PHOTOS COURTESY OF EUFORA AND WELLA PROFESSIONALS
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SALON SCOOP
1HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! It’s been 30 years since Malibu C first stepped
onto the professional beauty brand stage in 1985. Since then, the company has continued to find nature-inspired solutions for every beauty professional’s hair care needs with the brand’s selection of customized Wellness Hair Remedies.
2
SALON PROFESSIONALS
HELPING WOMEN FACE CANCER HEAD ON Your gift of $10 will provide a CHEMO CAP for a woman with cancer. Donate now at lookgoodfeelbetter.ca
Making Changes Trevor Attenborough, former vice-president of marketing and sales support and current president and general manager of Kao USA, Salon Division, has been appointed to general manager of Kao Salon Division, North America. In this new role, he’ll be undertaking Kao’s Canadian salon division. Mike Parsons, manager for Kao Canada, will continue to lead sales, marketing and education. Essie has announced that Rita Remark, lead nail artist for Essie Canada, will be taking her plethora of experience and creative vision to the international level with her newly appointed role as global lead educator. This August, Luke Jacobellis, president of John Paul Mitchell Systems for more than 25 years, announced that Robert Cromeans would be stepping into the roles of global artistic director and global business director for JPMS. Cromeans will bring his proven business strategies and innovation to the role and lead the way for JPMS.
3IN MEMORIAM
AGNES, CANCER SURVIVOR
This September, the industry lost innovator and KMS California founder Jamey Mazzotta.
PHOTOS: MALIBU C, KAO CANADA, ESSIE/STEFANIA YARHI, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, KMS CALIFORNIA
The biochemist launched the professional hair care company in 1976, studying the science of hair and bringing new meaning to research and development for hair care professionals and their clients. Mazzotta created a legacy by introducing the world’s first reconstructors
“While I was going through my cancer treatment, I was determined to face cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good Feel Better I got the help I needed.” Free 2-hour cosmetic and hair workshops for women with cancer.
and non-chemical professional straighteners, changing the hair care world with his science-backed innovations.
SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 183 Bathurst Street, Suite 202, Toronto, Ontario, M5T 2R7, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059. Volume 24, Issue 15.
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LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER IS A PROGRAM OF THE CANADIAN COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION FOUNDATION | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001
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SALON BY THE NUMBERS
Survey Says
While shampoos, cleansing conditioners and the latest celebrity hair trends are top of mind for your clients, it’s a numbers game on the road to salon success for Canadian beauty professionals. We launched a national survey for a snapshot of how the beauty business breaks down across the nation.
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RETAILING DONE RIGHT
TECHNICALLY SPEAKING
per cent take to social media to promote their salon business
83
with
per cent of salons carry nail products, including lacquer and nail care products
66
per cent of salons have less than 10 employees
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80
62
88 36
38
per cent carrying multiple brands
per cent have tablets
BACK TO SCHOOL
per cent of salons retail appliances
SALON TEAM
84
while
per cent of salons participate in some type of education
per cent indicate that business was up in the past year
per cent of salonstaff are salary paid employees
19
70
per cent are in salon training
per cent are commission based
76
per cent of salon staff attend business trade shows, including hair and manufacturing trade shows
ILLUSTRATIONS: THINKSTOCK
41
per cent of salons retail shampoo and conditioner
58
per cent of salon staff access technology through smartphones
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