Salon Magazine, November/December 2018

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S PACE M A K E R S : HOW TO SAV E & W H E R E TO S PE N D ON I N T E R IOR DE SIGN

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November+December 2018 30 F E AT U R E

Your Essential Guide to Creating Your Best Salon

From budget-friendly to green and everything in between, we’ve rounded up the top ways to maximize your salon’s design features.

36 F E AT U R E

The Finishing Touch

Refine your finishing skills just in time for the holiday season with our expert tips.

40

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LISA POLINI, H Y PE H A I R STUDIO, AU S T R A L I A

I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

Lisa Polini; Lucie Doughty; Georgia Freeman; Nathan Cherrington; Sharon Tranter; Darcie Chapman

55 F E AT U R E

“Create an experience for guests in each area of your salon. Simply making your entire space shine gives a luxury feel.”

Finalists for #Contessa2019!

It’s that time! We’re thrilled to announce the finalists for the 2019 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards.

—SANDRA FIORE, FIORE+GRECO, TORONTO ON THE COVER: JAKADJARI HAIR, AUSTRALIA

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 7

10

Editor’s Letter

12

54

Publisher’s Note

C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Marika D’Auteuil

14

Discover how this talented makeup artist pushes her creativity.

L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Find out what you won’t want to miss on our website this month.

17 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

56 54

P RO F I L E

Master of Image

One-on-one with editorial hairstylist, Louis Hechter.

N AT H A N CHER R INGTON, T O N I & G U Y, AU S T R A L I A

Get ready for the busy holiday season with the latest in care, colour, styling and finishing.

58 BUSINESS

4 Ways to Improve Your Social Media Game Learn four ways to improve your social media presence.

60 INTER IORS

Reimagine Your Salon

Get some #designinspo from five salons that are thinking outside the box.

68 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

74 SA LON STOR IE S

Dreams Come True

54 F I N A L I S T, CONTE SSA 29 I N T E R N AT I O N A L HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEA R: S H A RO N TRANTER, N E W N A N , GA .

8 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

You won’t want to miss this award-winning hairstylist’s touching story.

Salon_Magazine

salonmagazine 10 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

SalonMagazine

From the moment you walk into a salon, it’s about the experience. More specifically, as a client, it’s about how you feel in the salon, the level of comfort you have when speaking with staff, that calming sensation you get when first smelling the scent of a conditioning treatment, and taking in all that the space has to offer when it comes to style and décor.

Whenever I’m travelling, I make a point of dropping into salons I pass, especially if an interesting detail such as the signage, window displays or images cause a second glance. From salons that are tucked away just below street level, to ones that are in full view on a bustling city street, there are elements of each that I’ve considered trying to recreate in my own home.

As a salon owner, the salon space you’ve crafted says a lot about you and your team. That feeling you’re creating—from the moment clients walk in the door, to the moment they leave feeling transformed—has the ability to keep clients returning again and again. It’s a concept that isn’t lost on the owners of the salons we featured in our expanded Interiors section (page 60)—one we hope offers the inspiration you’re looking for. Whether you’re upgrading your space or totally redesigning it, this issue has something for you. As much as salons offer clients a place to retreat and renew, it’s your ability to tap into a feeling that truly allows you to make a connection with them. Suffice it to say that that’s something you can’t put a price on.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

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Salon Magazine ISSN 1489-7059, VOLUME 27, ISSUE 9 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Josiah Gordon

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Greg Robins greg@salonmagazine.ca

The Art of Competition

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

Across Canada and around the world, fall is when shows go big in the beauty industry. This past September, Goldwell hosted Global Zoom here in Canada with more than 4,000 attendees. It was the first time such a large, international event was held north of the border, which is an incredible honour for the Canadian salon industry. I was privileged to be part of the judging panel for this event, along with six other judges. With more than 70 entries, pouring over every submission was a massive job.

After the judging was complete, it was wonderful to hear the comments from my fellow judges about the models’ hair, and particularly, their hair colour. From bold shades and shapes to subtle multi-colour hues so nuanced and delicate that they took your breath away, the looks amazed us all.

Also in attendance was Jeanne Beker, the Canadian grand dame of fashion journalism. Having witnessed an innumerable amount of fashion shows around the world—and with full access to renowned designers—here’s what she had to say about Global Zoom: “I was getting teary-eyed watching the competition. It reminded me of the great couture shows I’ve been to—backstage at McQueen, where it’s all about theatricality and pulling out all the stops, and where commercial viability doesn’t really matter. These hairstylists, who are really like artists, pouring their hearts and souls into what they are doing, was very inspiring to see. It also struck me to hear different languages being spoken throughout the event, but also seeing how the aesthetics are quite similar from nation to nation. It’s cool to see how fashion and style, really do bring people together.” I couldn’t have said it better!

Congratulations to all those who compete across Canada and good luck to Canadian finalists Rob Rella and Daniel Grieco from Salon Gaboa, who will attend Wella Professionals’ International TrendVision Awards in Lisbon, Portugal. We look forward to seeing everyone at the Contessas—Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards on November 4 in Toronto, but if you can’t make it in person, be sure to catch it live via our webcast!

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

12 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

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So You Think You Can Style?

Congratulations to the winner of our latest “So You Think You Can Style?”

Pretty Pastels contest: Julie Carr from St. Thomas, Ont. To find out what inspired this winning look, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

➣

In need of #hairinspo?

Look no further than SalonMagazine.ca’s collection archive, where you’re sure to find what you’re looking for.

Runway Ready Get inspired at SalonMagazine.ca to recreate the runway looks seen at New York Fashion Week.

➣

Giving Back Read the inspirational story of Toronto-based DBK Salon, which organized a cut-a-thon to raise funds for a long-time colleague and friend diagnosed with ALS.

14 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: JULIE CARR, ST. THOMAS, ONT; HAIR: ESTHER LANGHAM FOR AMIKA; HAIR: ANNE MARIE YOUNG, JINGLES HAIR DESIGN, MAKEUP: ABBIE GARDINER, STYLING: KIRI DONALDSON, PHOTOS: FIONA QUINN; DBK SALON

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THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES, LINE EXTENSIONS AND STYLES TO SPARK YOUR CREATIVE ENERGY.

PHOTO: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

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The looks are also featured in Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks for Fall/Winter 2018. See the full collection at SalonMagazine.ca.

Canada’s very own Rossa Jurenas (North American color director for Schwarzkopf Professional) has teamed up with California-based colourist and influencer Linh Phan (a.k.a. @bescene) for the third installment of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora #RoyalTakeover.

The collaboration brings together the strengths of both powerhouse colourists, who created looks and shades for the brand’s new Igora Royal Lucid Nocturnes. With deep midnight tones and highly pigmented colour, the six new shades are sure to add an undeniably fierce edge to your looks this season. “Working on the Igora Royal Takeover was a lifelong dream turned into reality,” says Jurenas.

“Lucid Nocturnes is a modern take on seductive midnight colours. I’m super excited and humbled to have been part of such an amazing project.” salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 17

Hairlines — NEWS

Blonde Ambition Maximize blonde colour services throughout the winter season with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Série Expert Blondifier.

This complete haircare system is designed for all shades of blonde and is formulated with extracts from Brazilian acai berries—popularly used in skincare because of their antioxidant power.

Plus, the brand’s Série Expert Blonde Perfectors—available in Cool, Sun-Kissed and Warm—are the first professional in-salon correction system designed specifically for blondes. Help clients maintain long-lasting colour with three concentrated boosters that neutralize brassy tones.

New Look Rediscover Revlon Professional’s Style Masters range.

As part of their recent rebranding, Revlon Professional has unveiled new products and packaging for its triedand-true Style Masters line. Featuring colour-coded packaging with a sleek and feminine design, these products have been divided into six pillars: Essentials, Creator, Volume, Smooth, Curly and Double or Nothing, helping make it easier than ever to find the product that’s right for your style and your client.

18 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

Transform your pastel and metallic shades with Wella Professionals’ Opal-Essence by Illumina Color.

With five permanent shades featuring warm and cool reflections (plus, an iridescent sheen) this addition to the Illumina Color range has been intentionally designed to create opalescent metallic shading without depth and grey coverage, thanks to its exclusive light-reflecting formula.

PHOTOS: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, REVLON PROFESSIONAL

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Hairlines — NEWS

Some Like It Hot!

It Goes On and On and On

Find out how Hot Sexy Hair can help you cut blow-drying time in half, while also offering impressive heat protection.

Help your creative colour to last with Pravana’s new Vivids Everlasting.

Who says your pastel and vibrant shades must fade? Meet Pravana Vivids Everlasting.

The brand’s longest-lasting, Vivids permanent colour collection is available in four shades—Scarlette Red, Enchanted Pink, Pastel Potion and Mystic Magenta—and is formulated with true unicorn root (yes, it’s a real thing and known to have impressive antioxidant properties), elf flower extract for its antioxidant and conditioning benefits, and sea buckthorn oil for enhancing hair’s shine and strength. Plus, the shades can be used on their own to enhance, neutralize or balance colour, or can be mixed with Pravana’s ChromaSilk for countless colour combos.

Hot Sexy Hair Control Me Thermal protection working hairspray

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Find out how milk can do wonders for hair with Matrix’s Biolage R.A.W. Color Care Acidic Milk Rinse.

We all know how powerful milk can be for the body, so it’s no surprise that it can also do wonders for hair. Matrix’s Biolage R.A.W. Color Acidic Milk Rinse is formulated with coconut and oat milks for post-colour care, helps to rebalance hair’s pH level, and seals the cuticle while also enhancing colour vibrancy. And just like the rest of the brand’s Biolage R.A.W. range, the rinse is vegan and made with 99 per cent naturally derived ingredients, without any silicones, sulfates or parabens.

20 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

The Great Lengths Hair Caddy Feel like you need an extra set of hands during hair extensions reinstallations? The Great Lengths Caddy is designed to make the process easier than ever, helping you wash, dry and style your Great Lengths Tapes, and, in turn, saving you time and effort!

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Discover the captivating fragrance of new UniqOne™ Green Tea Scent: the aromatic, citrus freshness of green tea softened by delicate, musky notes.

Create Boldly. Live Boldly.

Hairlines — NEWS

Drops of Love Find out how Oribe’s new Power Drops can boost your hair results.

Good things come in small packages.

These three treatment serums— Hydration & Anti-Pollution, Damage Repair and Color Preservation—are each designed to target common hair concerns, and come complete with Oribe’s signature complex of watermelon, lychee and edelweiss flower extract to defend hair from the loss of natural keratin, oxidative stress and other aging signs caused by nature. To use, mix three to five drops with any Oribe product or apply directly to damp hair.

➣ FREEHAND FREESTYLE

Ditch the foils with Aloxxi’s Freehand Lightener.

Infused with kaolin clay and rice starch, this Freehand Lightener is dust-free and helps you maintain the perfect consistency—without the worry of swelling, bleeding or transferring. Get up to seven levels of lift and the versatility to use on and off the scalp. As an added bonus, it can also help maintain hair’s integrity, thanks to its silk proteins and blend of avocado, linseed, argan and olive oils, all of which improve moisture retention and manageability.

Child’s Play

Spellbinding Style Transform thin and damaged hair with the Liquid Spell Reinforcing Bodifying Fluid from Davines.

Is your client’s hair lacking oomph? This liquidto-foam elixir helps repair hair that’s thin or mildly damaged by adding an instant boost of softness and vitality. With its heat-activated amino acids, Liquid Spell “captivates” strands by filling the external hair structure and binding the cuticles while providing body, volume, texture and shine. It also offers hair an impressive dose of heat protection.

22 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

From washing and combing to styling and taming, children’s hair can be a huge #parentproblem. Curly Hair Solutions is helping put a stop to the struggle. Introducing Kinder Curls!

With packaging and product names inspired by superhero comics, the line is designed to give children confidence and independence, eliminating the need to borrow mommy’s “hair stuff.”

Kinder Curls features three products— Super Curls, Magic Mist Detangler and Creamy Curls. The line’s hero product, Super Curls, is vegan, fights frizz and adds shine, and will be available in December. The additional products, along with a Flexy Brush for kids, will launch in early 2019.

PHOTOS: ORIBE, CURLY HAIR SOLUTIONS, DAVINES, ALOXXI

Help kids ease into a professional haircare routine with Kinder Curls

by Curly Hair Solutions.

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JINGLE BELLES

China Glaze goes “green” in its latest collaboration with Dr. Seuss’ The Grinch.

CA L L I N G A L L N A I L T E C H S

Transforming Whoville to Woo-ville, this eight-piece collection includes frosted shades, glitters and crèmes. The Dr. Seuss’ The Grinch x China Glaze collection has everything we love about the brand and classic story-turned-film, including the shades’ names, such as wicked deep wine You’re a Mean One, and red-and-gold glitter Ho Ho No.

Find out why this Canadian-made product will be your new “jam.”

We don’t think you’re ready for this “gelly.” Meet JamGel, a Canadian company by PROBEAUTY Group, based in Edmonton. The JamGel Polyacrylic Modelling Paste puts an end to the cons of acrylic and hard gel systems with its hybrid product (combining the strength of acrylic powder and flexibility of gel nails) that’s easy to use, durable and has a fast curing time of only 30 seconds. JamGel is odourless— forget all about monomers and mixing ratios— and is designed to create lightweight nails with no airborne dust. Plus, the squeeze-tube dispenser makes it easy to measure out how much product you need with less waste!

CND Get tinsled tips with the Night Moves collection, including sparkly and shiny After Hours.

OPI Toast the holidays with Metamorphically Speaking from the Metamorphosis lineup.

Mother of Glam Gelish and Morgan Taylor celebrate the holiday season with the Forever Fabulous Marilyn Monroe collection.

Inspired by the one and only Marilyn Monroe, the collection of crème, pearl and glitter polishes range from sultry, deep hues to pops of bold colour and shimmering shades. The playfully named shades are a nod to some of the star’s most beloved moments, including the deep mahogany crème #HBDMrPresident and glittery silver Diamonds Are My BFF. 24 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

Bio Sculpture Gel Let loose with ’80s-inspired shades from the More Than a Feeling collection.

ORLY With Olive You Kelly, your Christmas tree won’t be your only green this season!

LCN See the light with Glam Light, a jet black shade with specks of gold glitter.

PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, BIO SCULPTURE, CND, OPI, ORLY, LCN, MORGAN TAYLOR, GLISH, PROBEAUTY GROUP

Hairlines — NAILS

Naughty and Nice

NaturalBorn Colour While pastel palettes are not yet a thing of the past, many clients are warming up to the idea of taking hair colour in a more natural direction. In fact, colourists are seeing a movement away from these fashion hair colours and into rich neutral hues—ones that are easier to maintain for both the colourist and the client. We spoke with two colourists who offer their best advice and tricks of the trade on how to move from extreme hair colours to more natural shades.

Rules of Colour No matter what natural shade you’re transitioning your clients to, the laws of colour are critical to keep in mind, says Dana Lyseng, an educator with Wella and owner of Supernova Salon in North Vancouver. “If the hair has two to five pastel colour reflecting different tonalities, there’s a possibility in certain lights to see through the new colour,” she says. “I would always advise to have a clean and consistent canvas to achieve clean and consistent results.”

Jan Patanao, a Kevin.Murphy master colourist and Canadian educator, gives this example: “With violet hues, you may have to go more into a brunette and refine the tone of a violet, which is also a less harsh route.” Adding face-framing babylights is also another option to preserve the condition of the hair, while giving your client a refreshed and natural look to their hair colour.

Colour Identification “Before you begin, always identify whether the colour in your client’s hair

26 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

is a direct dye, as most fashion colours are,” says Patanao. “In this case, you have to wait for the hair colour to fade, because using a lightener can push direct dye colour back into the hair.” For clients who want to begin the process immediately, she recommends using a colour remover to help break up colour molecules and facilitate the removal process.

Create Your Plan The hair colour your client is transitioning to will guide the process you use to create it. Patanao suggests a reverse balayage technique to maintain the depth of the regrowth colour by using a lightener at the root of the hair.

“Create a traditional balayage, then use a demi-permanent colour to break up the lines between the previous hair colour,” she says. “I like a demi-permanent because it will be softer on the hair, and also because it gives a more sun-kissed look, which is the natural colour your client is looking for.”

Stay in the Zone For Patanao, zone toning has been a trick that’s helpful when bringing clients to more natural shades. Begin

by choosing two or three shades, keeping these shades within two or three levels of one other. “You want to create a seamless flow from where the colour begins and ends,” she says. “For example, you’ll want to use a shade that’s darker at the new growth, medium tone at the mid-length and the lightest at the ends.” Another trick she suggests is alternating with two different tones. “I’ll use a warm toner and a cool or neutral one so there’s a natural variation and you create a multi-dimensional colour.”

Health Comes First Lyseng reminds colourists of the following, “When removing unwanted colour on hair that has been previously lightened, work with lower volume developers and work slowly.” In addition Over the years Lyseng has learned that low and slow has been the key to success without over stressing the hair. “I also really believe in the detailed consultation, the ideas the client and stylist want to achieve for the whole year,” says Lyseng. When you’re discussing pastels, the conversation needs to also include the process of changing them after.

TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTO: HAIR: ALLEN RUIZ, RUIZ SALON, AUSTIN, TX., COLOUR: LUIS GONZALEZ, MAKEUP: WALTER FUENTES, STYLING: CHRISTIAN RAMIREZ, PHOTO: CODY KINSFATHER

Hairlines — COLOUR

TRANSITIONING YOUR CLIENTS BACK TO MORE NATURAL HUES CAN BE EASY.

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Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

Gifts That Keep On Giving JUST IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS, WE’VE SEARCHED FOR THE TOP PRODUCTS YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS WILL WANT ON YOUR GIFT LISTS THIS YEAR.

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1 MATTE FINISH No one wants a shiny face this (or any!) season, especially with cameras flashing! Matte Velvet Skin by Make Up For Ever is available in 40 shades and offers a breathable, cake-free finish, with 24-hour, shine-free wear. 2 COLOUR ME IN Add colour to eyes, lips and brows with Make Up For Ever’s Artist Color Pencil.

With 39 shades ranging from bright orange to deep brown and black, they’re easy to blend, offer a precise finish and are the perfect way to dress up any holiday look.

3 ROOT REBOOT Don’t let your clients get caught with their roots showing! Keep them armed with Wella Professionals’ Insta Recharge, an instant powder root concealer. Available in five shades, Insta Recharge provides a natural, soft-blended result with a precision brush for easy use on roots, highlights, and even eyebrows!

4 REPAIR REMEDY Transform severely damaged hair with Shu Uemura’s Ultimate Reset Extreme Repair Treatment. This masque infuses new life into hair with organic rice extracts for soft, supple, shiny hair that’s strong yet lightweight. 5 MASK BRASS For super-busy clients, toning in the salon might not always be an option. Matrix’s

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TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C

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Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

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Total Results Brass Off Custom Neutralization Mask is a four-in-one mask that neutralizes brassy tones, nourishes hair, protects length and balances colour.

6 DECADENTLY DIVINE Give your retail offerings a “boost” with this MarulaOil gift set featuring the brand’s Rare Oil Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner, and Rare Oil Treatment Light. The set comes complete with a festive rose-gold sequin clutch. 7 CALM BALM Help your male clients soothe skin between shaves with Redken Brews After Shave Balm. Containing aloe vera to nourish skin after shaving, it’s gentle on skin and suitable for all skin types. 8 QUICK TRIM Keep men looking sharp with the BaBylissPRO Rose FX Metal Lithium Trimmer, a cordless tool with the brand’s high-torque, brushless, Ferrari-designed engine. With a high-end stainless steel finish and adjustable zero-gap T-blade, it’s ideal for outlining. 9 FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH Get brighter, healthier, firmer skin with Dermalogica’s Rapid Reveal Peel, a professionalgrade, at-home peel to reduce fine lines and wrinkles without any downtime. 10 SMART STYLE The world’s first styler with the ability to predict hair’s needs, the ghd Platinum+ is changing the game. The flat iron’s plates feature sensors that monitor temperature 250-times per second to maintain the optimal temperature of 365°F. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 29

Your Essential Guide To Creating Your Best Salon Whether you’re designing your salon from the ground up or refreshing your current space, the options for features and finishes are endless. From budget- conscious style to features that exude luxury appeal and more, we have tips and tricks from the pros to help you get the job done.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO & YASMIN GROTHÉ

For Budget Conscious

Save On: Utilities “Find a salon that has already been in that space, that’s up to code with electrical and plumbing and you’ll save time and money,” says Sandra Fiore, owner of Fiore + Greco.

“When you are leasing the space, it will take you three months before you start to make money, so finding an existing space with those built-in features is key to saving on time and money.”

Invest In: Your Chair “Your styling chairs should reflect your budget. Look at chairs as an investment, you don’t want to have to be repairing them if they don’t function,” says Fiore.

A.Do Salon New Zealand

30 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

Save On: Mirrors “Have a really great mirror for each station, at the correct thickness (six-inches or more) but keep your cost in check by keeping the length of them the height of the chairs, not full length,” she says.

PHOTOS: A.DO SALON, BENOIT VERMETTE, ECOHEADS

Spend On: Features and Finishes “You should have great equipment, millwork, and styling stations,” says Fiore. “When people are walking down the street, they are looking for a place that is going to make an impression.”

Save On: Space “Think about how much space you want to allocate to a front desk,” says Fiore, “You want to have a welcoming area, but with apps you can easily check out (and rebook) clients at the styling station, and a smaller front desk could mean, an additional styling station.”

Spend On: Paint “Paint is always a way to freshen up a space; it makes it look loved. When you have a mix of eclectic items, choose a paint colour that is the same colour as the items so that it keeps the flow of the salon pleasing to the eye,” says Fiore.

Beauty and the Environment

Lease Eco-Friendly Space Leasing a space in an LED building is the best way to ensure you are reducing your carbon footprint, because the building is in control of your amount of hydro of electricity in a building. Keep in mind you’ll need to design in a way to select the correct toilet and lighting.

Get On the Floor Source your features and finishes locally, which helps to reduce your carbon footprint. When it comes to sourcing flooring, there are a lot of sustainable options, which are also better for hairstylists who are on their feet all day.

Sinkside Service Water consumption is a salon’s biggest consumption and installing faucet systems, including Ecoheads, is a terrific option for helping to maintain water pressure while still keeping water consumption in check. ➤

Water Works

Increasing water and energy consumption is an ongoing challenge for salon owners.

Now, Ecoheads offers a solution with showerheads that reduce water consumption by increasing the water pressure, making it a time- and moneyefficient addition to salons. Plus, the showerheads are made with sustainable recycled plastic, a win for you and the environment.

Kroma Salon King City, Ont.

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 31

Men’s Detailing

Height Matters Barber chairs are always higher, so keep in mind that some staff may have a tough time cutting. Also, it’s good to know that headrests sometimes detach from the chair, so you’ll need to find a place to store it if you decide to alternate using and not using it.

Selling Out Display retail in a way that offers the chance to talk about the product. A retail area should look like a boutique, with skincare products highlighted, and visuals utlitized. Men want to be educated on what they are using.

Well Equipped The equipment you’re using must convey the general idea of a barbershop, and be very comfortable. There are a lot of barbering chairs on the market, so make sure you choose ones that are robust, cozy and can be reclined.

Men want to feel at ease when having their service.

Finishing Details While wood interiors are popular in men’s design, these materials may not be durable enough for a salon.

Instead, opt for composite materials and veneers or laminates, which are affordable, chemical- and water-resistant, and still deliver the masculine touch that appeals to your clients. ➤

Augustin Homme Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Que.

32 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

PHOTOS: LANVAIN DESIGN

Light It Up Even more than in a salon, when you’re catering to men, lighting needs to be at the right height to accommodate taller clients. Also, the positioning of the lighting is key, as a lot of shadows can occur when doing detailing work, so the lighting needs to be around the chair and not on it.

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that are raw and natural. It’s the combination of these different influences that will create a customized décor with interesting finishes and textures.

Digital Details Include digital tools and add-ons (chargers for client’s electronics, for example) in a clean and well-lit reception area.

Illuminating Experience “A salon requires much more lighting than any other type of retail operation,” says Lavigne. “Different types of services are often grouped together by zone, and because of that, you will need different sources of light.

With LEDs, we can create beautifully balanced lighting that is energy efficient with good design. Lighting is now not only used as a source of light, but also for its decorative qualities.”

St-Helier, Jersey, UK.

A Luxe Look

Image First Mélissa Lavigne, a designer at Lanvain Design in SaintLaurent, Que., says to convey a luxury image in your salon, you need to think about your concept, brand and philosophy, even before you begin the design process.

Special Areas Make sure you create welldefined areas for each of the services that are well integrated with the flow of the salon’s overall design.

In your retail space, clients should be able to touch the products and convey a true sensory experience.

Timeless Materials Try to combine on-trend and classic materials, while choosing some components

34 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

Marble: Yes or No? Marble is a beautiful material, but it’s not recommended for a hair salon since it’s porous and easy to stain. Want the same effect as marble?

Choose porcelain, which imitates the look.

PHOTOS: LANVAIN DESIGN

The Parlour

Customize the Light Cool white lighting is used to showcase products inside retail display counters. But in the colour service areas, a more natural light is needed in order to assess the client’s initial colour and see the exact hair colour result.

Finally, in the rest areas of the salon, Lavigne suggests including a warmer lighting to create more of a cozy feeling.

The Finishing Find out how you (yes, you!) can refine your finishing skills so clients can enjoy a longer lasting, pictureperfect look this season.

Prime Time Everything from how the hair is towel-dried to the products used on it can make a lasting impact on the finished result. In other words, don’t think this is when you can cut corners. “Whenever I’m teaching hairstylists, I always stress that so much of your finished result is a result of what you do in the prep,” says Kristjan Hayden, creative director for Aveda Canada. “Be careful about the kinds of products you use and how you’re setting the hair in consideration of your end result. Make sure you’re setting yourself up to be able to finish it properly.”

PRO TIP PREP WITH A THICKENING OR VOLUMIZING PRODUCT, SAYS HAYDEN. “I START WITH FAIRLY WET HAIR, SO I HAVE MORE CONTROL, INCLUDING AT THE ROOTS, SO I CAN BLOW-DRY THE HAIR AND SET IT BEFORE APPLYING THE STYLING TOOL.”

36 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

HAIR: THE SASSOON INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE TEAM LED BY MARK HAYES, U.K; MAKEUP: DANIEL KOLERIC; STYLING: MATHILDE DUTHEIL; PHOTO: BENJAMIN VNUK

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

g Touch Blow-Drying 101 While blow-drying hair can take a big toll on the arms and wrists, it is a critical component of the finishing process, and can make or break your final results.

You may think you’ve mastered the art of blowdrying, but Carole Lemire, owner of Soho Hair, a Sassoon-inspired Wella salon in Edmonton, Alta., has taken it to another level. With three stages of drying—wrap, tension and beveling—she says taking the time and having patience truly pays off. “We use [these techniques] for short, medium and long hair, including men’s and curly hair,” she says. “It really controls the hair and makes the cut look a lot better.

That’s what finishing hair is really about—blowdrying, so you have a smoother hair cuticle and can see the shape a lot better.”

While many stylists tend to rely heavily on a round brush to smooth things over, Lemire advises against it. “If you use a round brush for everything, everything is going to have volume,” she explains.

“You really can’t see your technique and shape very well, because it’s easier to hide mistakes with a round brush. That’s why we use the wrap drying, tension drying and beveling so you can really see your haircut. Once we refine, texturize and personalize it, if we feel the client needs a round brush, then we will use one to give her more body.”

“RATHER THAN BEING REACTIVE, BE PROACTIVE AND USE GOOD TECHNIQUES, PRODUCTS AND TOOLS TO SET YOU UP FOR A HIGH QUALITY, BETTER FINISHED RESULT.” — KRISTJAN HAYDEN, CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR AVEDA CANADA

PRO TIP IF YOU’RE IN A TIME CRUNCH, HAYDEN SUGGESTS BLOW-DRYING THE TOP SECTION WITH A BRUSH AND USING VELCRO ROLLS UNDERNEATH. “I LOVE HOW MUCH THEY HELP CREATE AIR IN THE HAIR. IT MAKES HAIR VERY LIGHT AND LOOSE, WITHOUT MANIPULATING THE ENDS. IT’S SOMETHING I’VE PASSED ON TO A LOT OF CLIENTS WITH GREAT SUCCESS.”

WRAP-DRYING

Use a paddle brush and blow-dry the hair around the head. Your brush and blow-dryer will work together to help remove any curl patterns.

TENSION-DRYING (AKA. LEAFING) Use tension to smooth down the hair cuticle for a smoother finish.

(Tip: Section hair and pick up pieces with the brush to remove any kinks. Then, pull the hair down with the brush while blow-drying).

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO FIND OUT WHICH FINISHING PRODUCTS THESE EXPERTS CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT!

BEVELING

Similar to the roundbrush drying technique, this is when you use a flat brush to bevel out the ends of the hair.

Lemire’s secret weapon? The Dyson Supersonic Professional.

Ready? Set! Both experts agree that the key to setting hair all comes down to cooling it off. “I would recommend that the hair dries and cools in the position that you ultimately want it to end up in,” says Hayden.

“Same if you’re round-brushing or flat-brushing.

After I’ve heated up a section and run my brush through with tension to get it all smooth (using the cool-shot button), I can actually see the shine; like a little layer has been created.”

For those who don’t prefer the cool-shot option, Lemire suggests “removing your blow-dryer for a few seconds, so the hair cools down before you take your brush out.”

As for setting upstyles? “I don’t recommend using a lot of product,” says Hayden. “I recommend not using any hairspray until you get to a certain point in the style where it’s all assembled, and you get your client to weigh in on it. Then, as part of my finishing, I will go in and start securing it with more pins and use a finishing spray, as opposed to a working spray. In finishing, you want to pay attention to things like, is it going to hold? Does it have enough shine? Do we want to add a dry shampoo to add a bit more texture?”

“If you’ve been styling with a lot of product, it’s really hard to go back and change things since you’ve been setting things through multiple steps,” adds Hayden. “I know that’s a big fear that a lot of stylists have and express when I’m teaching upstyling classes. What do you do if the client wants to make changes at the end? Just don’t back yourself into a corner by using too much product that you won’t be able to make adjustments to in the end. That’s a key one and a real lightbulb moment.”

PRO TIP TAKE THE TIME AND BE VERY DETAIL-ORIENTED, SAYS HAYDEN, WHO SUGGESTS MAKING SURE THINGS LIKE CROSS-HAIRS ARE SMOOTHED OUT, ESPECIALLY IN UPSTYLES.

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 37

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November+December

A curation of inspiring styles to fuel your creativity.

salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 39

Collections — FATE

This awardwinning collection of sharp lines and textured styles draws inspiration from east Asian culture.

40 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

HAIR Lisa Polini, Hype Hair Studio, Australia MAKEUP Christina Rodio STYLING Lydia-Jane Saunders PHOTOS David Mannah salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 41

Collections — GREY MATTER

A versatile range of styling is featured in this American collection.

42 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

HAIR Lucie Doughty, Straight Pin Studio LA, Venice, Calif.

MAKEUP John Stapleton PHOTOS Albert Sanchez salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 43

Collections — WHO RUNS THE WORLD?

This awardwinning Australian collection features sleek cuts and windswept styles with superior finishing.

HAIR Georgia Freedman, Rokk Ebony, Australia MAKEUP Sarah Baxter PHOTOS Elizabeth Kinnaird

44 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 45

Collections — OH, MY GLAM!

Long or short, the hair featured in this Australian collection is undeniably eye-catching.

46 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

HAIR Nathan Cherrington,

Toni & Guy, Australia MAKEUP Chereine Waddell STYLING Melissa Nixon PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 47

Collections — CHIC ON FLEEK

With finishes that are anything but predictable, this American collection combines complexity with modern edge.

HAIR Finalist, Contessa 29 International Hairstylist of the Year: Sharon Tranter, Newnan, Ga. MAKEUP Roque Cozzette STYLING Nikko Kefalas PHOTOS Damien Carney

48 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 49

Collections — PARIS COUTURE

With an added edge to elegant, feminine styles, this Frenchinspired Canadian collection is nothing short of chic.

50 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

HAIR Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove, Alta.

MAKEUP Cara Kapler STYLING & PHOTOS Kylie Reimchen salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 51

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Marika D’Auteuil Based in Montreal, makeup artist Marika D’Auteuil brings her magical touch to many hairstylists’ collections every year. She also channels her artistry into her own creative photo sessions. “I need to shoot as often as possible,” she says. “It helps me fine-tune my techniques and it’s a great way to create amazing content for my social media channels.”

Socially Savvy A Instagram maven, D’Auteuil boasts close to 100,000 followers. She says that social marketing is a very important component of her career when it comes to promoting her work, and provides an ideal platform for allowing potential sponsors to assess her craftsmanship. “Years ago, I had a MySpace account. And when YouTube, Facebook and Instagram came along, I signed up as soon as they launched,” she says. Her bustling social accounts have also opened the doors for her to create content for big brands such as Sephora. That said, she’s 54 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

quick to point out she is not an influencer. “I will never compromise my integrity and credibility, no matter how much I’m being offered.”

This year, D’Auteuil was approached by a group of French beauty artists to lead a master class on makeup in “The City of Lights.” “I like encouraging other artists to fuel their own creativity by treading unfamiliar territories to build a portfolio that sets itself apart. It was an amazing experience!”

Model Over Mood Board When working on a shoot for a collection, D’Auteuil says she always begins with a mood board, but adapts everything. “My main source of inspiration is always the model in front of me,” she says. For this Contessa photo, she chose to work with gold and purple, “creating beautiful and rich contrasting hues”. A finalist once more in this year’s 30th edition of the Contessas, D’Auteuil loves the competition. “It gets me out of my comfort zone. And the Contessa gala is always such a magical event!”

Graftobian Cosmetic Powedered Metal, in Gold “I wanted gold on the lashes, and this is a great makeup product to add a tiny amount of shine anywhere.”

Pixie Rose Oil Blend “Oils are amazing for creating a soft sheen on skin, while nourishing it with wholesome ingredients.”

TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ; HAIR AND MAKEUP: MARIKA D’AUTEUIL, PHOTO: DS SANCHEZ

Contessa Gallery — 2018 FINALIST MAKEUP ARTITST OF THE YEAR

“My main source of inspiration is always the model in front of me.”

Contessa 2019 Finalists!

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Jesse Ervin, Civello Salon, Toronto Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Alain Pereque, Freelance, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta.

Morgan Roy, Aveda Academy Salon, Toronto Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. Mëdz Salon, Verdun, Que. Salon Alessandro, St. Catharines, Ont. Salon Collage, Toronto Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Sin 7 Salon, White Rock, B.C. Valentini Hair Design & Spa, Guelph, Ont. Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. Venere Salon, Oakville, Ont. ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia & Salon, Langley, B.C. Rodrigo Araneda, OLab Coiffeurs, Montreal Marc Galati, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal Alain Pereque, Freelance, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST David Barron, Barron’s London Salon, Atlanta, Ga. Chrystofer Benson, CBC Chrystofer Benson Collective, South Weber, Ut. Tracey Devine-Smith, Freelance, Surrey, U.K. Joe Habbaki, Toni & Guy, Armadale, Australia Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson, Mansfield, U.K. Candice McKay, Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering, Johannesburg, South Africa Charlotte Mensah, Charlotte Mensah Hair Lounge, London, U.K. Dmitri Papas, Papas + Pace, Brisbane, Australia Joey Scandizzo, Joey Scandizzo Salon, South Yarra Victoria, Australia Gary Taylor, Edward & Co, Brighouse, U.K.

Colleen Lamirande, Verde Salon, Winnipeg Alicia Soulier, Capelli Salon Studio Inc., Saskatoon

CANADIAN COLOURIST Erin Fernandes, ED Hair & Tattoo, London, Ont. Myriam Gravel, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Simon James, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. April McDougald, Heart & Soul Hair Studio, Regina, Sask.

Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. Victoria Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. David Vendittelli, INdustry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

MAKEUP ARTIST Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Heidi Fleming, Beauty by Heidi Amelia, Morden, N.S. Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Medicine Hat, Alta.

Véronique Girard, Véronique Girard – Artiste Maquilleur, Jonquière, Que. Alexandre Lajoie, Miuz, Trois-Rivières, Que.

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit, Edmonton Hassan Nasser, Avalon Salon, Calgary Sasha Thaxter, Sass Couture Salon, Airdrie ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Bailey Squires Hynes, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio & Spa, Yarmouth, N.S. Ali Pike, The Seahorse Salon, St. John’s, Nfld.

Eryn Wall, The Headroom Salon & Spa, Paradise, Nfld.

MASTER COLOURIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Nicolas Bergeron, Oblic Villeray, Montreal Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Caroline Robitaille, Coiffure Caroline Robitaille, Repentigny, Que. Michael Shire, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Marlo Steenman, The Men’s Room, St. Albert, Alta.

Jennifer Vermeer, Fascinature the Salon, Hamilton, Ont.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Timothy Kuo, Salon Haze, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove, Alta.

Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Erin Fernandes, ED Hair & Tattoo, London, Ont. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Sophie Tessier, Salon La Rousse, Montreal Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny Étienne Cloutier, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Mathieu Daigle, Atelier Mega Coiffure, Québec Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard Josée Renaud, Josée Renaud Coiffure, Québec

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute Toronto, Toronto Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Uyen Huynh, Vanity Hair and Esthetics, Saskatoon Kelsie Kitzul, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Jason Lachance, Urban Crush Salon, Winnipeg

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Stephane Scotto Di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal Kim Garneau, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Danielle Clark, Trabbit Nail Creations, Grand Forks, B.C. Yoonmi Kim, BSIDE Beauty, Toronto Anick Pouliot, Pose d’ongles Anick Pouliot, Levis, Que. Robyn Schwartz, Robyn Schwartz Nail Design, Charlottetown, P.E.I.

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Eric Charpentier, Brossés, Montreal Marie-Justine Deziel, Freelance, Montreal Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Christine Kelly, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon & Spa, Stouffville, Ont. Soyeon Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto NEW HAIRSTYLIST Eloise Chiew, Suki’s South Granville, Vancouver Tori Frappier, Dragonfly Salon & Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Robynn Graham, Hair by Robynn, Innisfil, Ont. Catherine Niro, Salon Collage, Toronto Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. STUDENT-APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Lucy Abate, Felix and Ginger Salon, Alton, Ont. Meaghan Boswell, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Emma-Lynn Bouliane, Scissors Hair Studio, Ottawa Rachelle Dixon, Hair Power, Woodstock, Ont. Cherish Eaton, MC College, Edmonton, Alta.

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Simon James, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute Toronto, Toronto John Seo, The Cellar Salon, Toronto SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Album Hair, Toronto Concrete Barbers, Fort Saskatchewan, Alta.

Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Jaja Spa, Toronto The Beverly, Calgary JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Capucci Salon, Toronto Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Suki’s Hair Salon & Academy, Vancouver Taz Hair Co., Toronto Tomax Hairworks, Etobicoke, Ont. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 55

Profile —LOUIS HECHTER

Master of Image Celebrity hairstylist Louis Hechter explains how marketing has always been a key component of his career.

BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

You have a very targeted approach to marketing for yourself and your salon, Orbite, in Montreal. How did you develop that talent?

One of the biggest running jokes about me is that I’m crazy about electronic devices. That passion led me to want to understand and

use Photoshop. Whenever I’m working on a collection or a magazine shoot, I sit next to the assistant photographer and observe everything they do. I’m always learning.

This personal interest of mine brought me to study illustration, photography, and even film credits, which are, essentially, key

56 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

marketing components. I’ve trained myself to develop a good eye for graphic design and image creation.

As editorial director for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada, you are now producing trend forecasting reports for the brand. Tell us about this.

I take a very close look at what’s happening in fashion and what the major labels are creating. I get inspired by the editorial vision of a collection, and what the trends are highlighting. You have to remind yourself that ‘editorial’ means you’re telling a story with hair, supporting the fashion and the accessories [in

PHOTOS: ERICK FAULKNER

As a hairstylist, how did you become well known and how have you maintained that status?

I consider myself more of a lucky guy who made it in a career where breaking in is difficult. My dream was to be a fashion hairstylist, so I got heavily involved in all the aspects of it: Editorial photo shoots, music videos and creative photography. I think working in these different aspects of professional beauty helped me get ahead.

The love of what I do is reflected in everything I’ve achieved in my career. For anyone who has the urge to build something important in their career, it’s going to become their focal point. It’s about finding that focus and maintaining it.

“REMIND YOURSELF THAT ‘EDITORIAL’ MEANS YOU’RE TELLING A STORY WITH HAIR THAT SUPPORTS THE FASHION AND THE ACCESSORIES. I THINK ABOUT HOW THOSE INFLUENCES WILL TRANSLATE IN THE SALON.”

the process]. I also think about how these influences translate in the salon, for the client who’s sitting in your chair and doesn’t want anything too crazy for her hair.

How do you create these trend reports that become the basis of the portfolio training?

The biggest problem I usually face is finding the proper image. For instance, for fall/ winter 2018/2019, I felt Gucci was a huge influence with all the lacing they presented last year and its Marie Antoinette references. I knew this had to come together in the hairstyles. Then I started seeing these pictures of big, very luxurious and voluminous cakes. Sometimes I see the same themes appear in fashion and interior design magazines, and I can feel that there’s something happening.

It’s about ideas and links, but you need to have an open mind, be curious and to see these connections.

Should building a brand be a strong component of any hairstylist’s career?

Career building is very different now than it was, when I first started out in the ’90s. At the time, there was a big recession and salons weren’t advertising. The only way to make some noise for yourself was through competitions. It got your name out there and you got respect from your peers.

After that, editorial work became the big thing. Fashion became important again.

Ultimately, it’s important to remember that, no matter what big brand you work for, it’s always your name and your style that you should be promoting. That requires consistency, and it becomes your signature. You should be focused on building that as your personal branding.

What do you think is required to become a successful hairstylist?

If you think of [the fundamentals of] haircutting, hairstyling or hair colour, they usually don’t change. It’s a service you’re offering that always has to be the best, no matter what. It’s the very base of your work. If you’re a very good hairstylist, you’re always going to be busy. But

you do need to understand the changes that are taking place within society and our industry; really pay attention to how your clientele is evolving.

How do you adapt to change?

You need to rebrand yourself and your salon every five to six years because that’s how often your clientele is changing. You should always

be working on rebranding, so no one feels there’s a gap between the ‘old’ and the ‘new.’ Also, your personal and business marketing has to be redirected. My image has changed a lot throughout my career. Obviously, social media plays a big factor right now, but you also have to prepare for what’s next. There’s always something new coming. Keep your eyes open!

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 57

Think you know everything there is to know about social media? Think again! Two hair experts—on different levels of “insta-fame”—share what they’ve mastered and are continuing to learn about all things social.

Hashtags Hashtags can be very hit or miss.

But there are more pros than cons to including hashtags in your posts. Most of all, they can help your posts become more discoverable for people that may not be following, or have never even heard of you.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

Reposting It goes without saying that reposting allows you to share content that your followers may not have seen otherwise. Now, people have gotten more creative with how content is being reposted—aside from using repost hashtags and apps.

“I’ve reposted content simply because I love the image and feel like more people need to see it. Sometimes I will work with a client and plan a repost at a certain time of day. For example, one of my clients owns a woman’s clothing brand in Toronto. We exchange posts because her clients need great hair and my clients need great clothes. It’s amped up both of our brands because we’re both local and easily accessible.”

— Rob Pizzuti (@robpizzutidotcom)

Tagging Tagging sounds simple enough, right?

The thing is, it’s not just about you and your salon. Don’t forget about everyone that worked on your team—from makeup and styling to photographers and models. And then there are the products that helped you create the look.

Remember, the more people you tag, the more chances it has to be seen, which can translate into higher engagement (likes, comments, shares, etc.) numbers.

“I reached out to the photographers and models I worked with or followed and offered to trade for mutual posts that we would all share the same content and tag each other.”

— Rob Pizzuti

TIP PIZZUTI ALSO SUGGESTS TELLING YOUR CLIENTS TO TAG YOU WHENEVER THEY HAVE A GREAT HAIR PHOTO.

“On Instagram, I was [asking people to] send me a heart [via direct message] and I would pick my favourite post from their page and share it on my story. It sparked a lot of conversation. I got to really dive deep into people’s pages that we just scroll through quickly.”

— Robin Bacon (@robinbacon)

TIP BACON ALSO SUGGESTS REPOSTING NEWSWORTHY ITEMS TO HELP GET THE WORD OUT FASTER AND MORE EASILY. “PEOPLE ARE PROBABLY GOING TO CHECK FACEBOOK OR INSTAGRAM FIVE OR SIX TIMES A DAY, BUT THEY MAY ONLY TALK TO SOMEBODY PROMOTING THESE THINGS ONCE A MONTH. REPOSTING IS THE KEY TO SHARING THAT KNOWLEDGE AND GETTING PEOPLE EXCITED ABOUT THINGS.”

58 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO FIND OUT OUR EXPERTS’ SOCIAL MEDIA PET PEEVES.

“I really love looking through the feed and seeing what people’s hashtags are all about. I feel like it gives a little bit more meaning to the pictures they are posting.” — Robin Bacon TIP BACON SUGGESTS INCLUDING HASHTAGS IN THE COMMENTS SECTION (ON INSTAGRAM OR FACEBOOK) AND KEEPING YOUR POST’S CAPTION SIMPLE “SO PEOPLE CAN ABSORB THE MESSAGE YOU’RE TRYING TO SEND.”

Stories With a 24-hour shelf life, Instagram’s Stories feature has allowed us to capture content “on-the-fly” and create highlight reels of content we want to keep on our pages more permanently. ”When Instagram changed from realtime to most viewed, a lot of people’s content started getting lost. If I post something [on my feed] late at night, in the morning I might throw a ‘new post’ post on my story and kind of scratch it out [so people have to view my feed to see it], and see if it generates any more [engagement]. I’ve seen other people do it and it does drive me to their page.” — Robin Bacon

“Stories are just that; tell your story, make it interesting, keep it short and sweet, and, most of all, don’t preach.

You are not the only person in the world that can make level-one hair beautiful blonde.” —Rob Pizzuti TIP ASKING QUESTIONS AND USING POLLS IN YOUR INSTAGRAM STORY CAN BE HELPFUL TO GET THE CONVERSATION GOING, SAYS BACON. “I’VE HAVE FOUND THAT PEOPLE LIKE TO BE INVOLVED AND INTERACTIVE. THEY LIKE QUESTIONS!”

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Business —

4 Ways to Improve Your Social Media Game

Interiors — INDUSTRY HAIR & ESTHETICS

From the moment your clients walk through the door, they need to feel welcome, comfortable and basically right at home. Here, we feature a selection of Canadian and international salons that are doing design right.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

60 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

PHOTOS: KALE FRIESEN

Reimagine Your Salon

INdustry Hair & Esthetics St. Catharines, Ont.

Creating Space When co-owner Marilyn Vendittelli first saw the property her husband David was considering for their salon, she didn’t want to get out of the car. Once she set foot inside the one-time bank space, however, she saw the vault and knew it would become the home for INdustry Hair. “That room was what caught our attention and it’s now our colour mixing room,” says Vendittelli. “With its industrial chrome door, we knew it would set us apart. It’s become the number one feature people will ask to see. It was a game changer for us!”

The Vibe “We have a cool industrial feel, but we also wanted to make it feel inviting and not intimidating. It’s the kind of space clients enjoy hanging out for a little while.”

DIY “We did the design work ourselves, and with the help of our family,” says Vendittelli. “We hired a carpenter to build our stations and made sure we had a hand in managing everything.” salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 61

Linton & Mac

Creating Space Featuring 15 styling stations, at Linton & Mac, the design was inspired by Scandinavian style. Adding personality to the salon was important to the owners, who were a big part of the design process. With sleek details that include neon signs, industrial shelving and plenty of botanicals, the space reflects approachable design without compromising quality.

The Vibe This is where London and New York City loft design meet. Walking into the inviting reception area, the retail space is intended to keep clients browsing, setting the pace for the rest of the experience.

Strategically located away from the rest of the salon, the style bar mimics a cocktail bar and provides the ideal place for the salon to host special events.

PHOTOS: SAM BRILL

Interiors — LINTON & MAC

Aberdeen, Scotland

62 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 63

Interiors — WESTROW

Westrow

Creating Space Taking a lifestyle approach to salon design, Westrow’s Skipton location incorporates hair and beauty services for a luxe and relaxing client experience. Spanning two floors and more than 2,500 square-feet, this U.K. salon has sourced features and finishes for a true destination salon experience. From the white marble boarding to the walnut flooring that lays in a different design to designate each area is of the salon, the space exudes a throughly unified design aesthetic.

The Vibe Styling stations are outfitted with lighting that mimics natural daylight—a key feature for both stylists and clients.

64 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SEVEN PUBLICITY

Skipton, England

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 65

Interiors — JAKADJARI HAIR

Jakadjari Hair

Creating Space Australian award-winning salon Jakadjari Hair has a distinctly minimalist yet luxurious feel, intended to revitalize clients from the moments they walk into the salon. The newly renovated space retains the character of its heritage building, while also featuring modern elements. Among them: clean geometric lines, and the edgy, futuristic styling station detailing.

66 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

PHOTOS: ADAM GIBSON AND PRESTON LANE, SUMMERSBY MEDIA

Hobart, Australia

Interiors — RUSSELL EATON

Russell Eaton

Leeds, England Creating Space Combining the features of a cutting-edge salon with the atmosphere of a relaxing spa, Russell Eaton transports clients. The salon’s airy and contemporary feel exemplifies urban, industrial style that’s both fresh and modern in its appeal.

“WE PUT A LOT OF TIME AND ENERGY INTO THE PLANNING AND DESIGN TO MAKE IT LUXURIOUS AND COMFORTABLE FOR OUR CLIENTS.” — ROBERT EATON

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 67

Events —

The Color Zoom ’19 collection, Remix, is a pop-art inspired reinvention of classic styles with bold cuts that are infused with vibrant colour.

A Celebration of Creativity at Global Zoom 2018!

Goldwell’s annual Global Zoom competition landed in Toronto, with 33 countries vying for the top prize in the Partner, Creative and New Talent Colorist categories. Competitors were required to recreate photos of their work, which was inspired by the brand’s Elemental collection. Hosted by VP and global creative director John Moroney, the show also marked the highly anticipated reveal of Goldwell’s Color Zoom ’19 collection.

When & Where: September 30 in Toronto

|

PHOTOS: GOLDWELL, SALON STAFF

Global president Cory Couts also appeared on stage to present awards to the 2018 Color Zoom Hall of Fame inductees, including Goldwell global master for Canada, Rodica Hristu.

68 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

The night featured special guests, including former Fashion Television host, Jeanne Beker. |

Events —

—

The live competition featured 79 finalists from around the globe, including Connor Lange from Bob + Paige in Toronto, Vu Nguyen from Lure Salon in Vancouver and Taylor Brockerville from Hair Factory in St. John’s, Newfoundland.

| Michelle Pargee, a Goldwell North American artistic team member, was the mentor for Team Canada.

—

It was a history-making night for the Netherlands who, for the first time in Global Zoom history, swept the top prize in all three categories!

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 69

Events —

Individual presentations featured members of the international team from Belgium, Sweden, and Italy. A special presentation from Kevin.Murphy’s Colour Masters included Canadians Jan Patanao and Joseph Grossen. |

—

The brand’s founder started the show by demonstrating his passion for editorial hairstyling while breaking down the elements of working with textured hair.

Kevin.Murphy further secured its commitment to the environment by announcing it will begin manufacturing bottles exclusively made from 100 per cent recycled ocean plastics.

Bringing together thousands of hairstylists from around the world, Kevin.Murphy’s global education event offered hair inspiration with a high-energy runway show that featured top tier talent from the brand’s global artistic team. Kevin.Murphy also unveiled their latest collection, Future.Love, and hairstylists had the opportunity to take part in twoday education workshops.

When and where: September 16-17 in Las Vegas

70 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

| Kate Reid, Kevin.Murphy’s global design and director, discussed the shift in hair colour from cool to warmer colours (think: golden champagne blondes).

PHOTOS:KEVIN.MURPHY

Kevin.Murphy’s Future.Love

Build your career with us.

View our career opportunities at https://chatters.ca/pages/careers Apply to careers@chatters.ca

www.chatters.ca

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018 71

Events —

Going Into the Woods With Eufora’s Creative Team Featuring textured hairstyles, soft yet vibrant hair colours, and sharp cuts, Eufora’s creative team presented the brand’s Into the Woods collection.

Hosted by Metro Beauty Supply, the brand’s creative director Philip Carreon, along with style director Mirza Batanovic and artistic director Dee Fortier lead the onstage team with live cutting, styling and colour demonstrations from the collection.

Along with the artistic presentation, Beth Bewley, the brand’s cofounder, spoke about Eufora Global Connection, a unique education event that will spark creativity among the brands’ artistic and business professionals.

Taking the Lead

Revlon Professional has appointed Brian Ahrens as the company’s new general manager for its professional brands, including American Crew, CND and Revlon Professional. Ahrens is an industry veteran with more than 30 years of experience, and has held the former positions of vice-president of sales and education for Collega/Aveda and general manager of Goldwell and KMS.

Moving on Up

Kao Corporation has announced the appointment of Trevor Attenborough to vice-president, Salon Commercial, for Kao Salon North America. The former general manager for Kao Salon North America will now be the lead for all sales and commercialization in North America. The replacement for general manager of Kao Salon North America will be announced at a later date.

72 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

On the Move

Rowena Berry has joined Coty as the national account manager for ghd. Formerly the national business development manager for Schwarzkopf Professional, Berry is responsible for the sales and brand development of ghd, and will work with strategic partners to develop business in new and existing channels, along with working with other Coty professional brands, including Wella, Sebastian, Kadus, Clairol and Nioxin.

New Locations

After expanding into Canadian luxury retailer Holt Renfrew at Square One Shopping Centre in Mississauga, Ont. earlier this year, Medulla & Co. is continuing to spread its wings with an additional salon slated to open in Holt Renfrew at Vancouver CF Pacific Centre next year. “It’s a testament to what we’ve built and accomplished as a salon. It will certainly help us bring new clients in the door,” says Luis Pacheco, founder of Medulla & Co.

PHOTOS:SALON STAFF, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, KAO, COTY

Scoop —

When & Where: September 23 in Woodbridge, Ont.

© 2018 NAIL ALLIANCE LLC.

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Salon Stories —

Dreams Come True This award-winning hairstylist’s story has not only touched us but truly exemplifies why we love doing what we do.

In 2008, I was a very busy, successful salon owner, with a large salon in Langley, B.C. I had been working in hair for 26 years.

The only catch was, I had lost all passion for my chosen profession. All the things that first made me choose hairdressing had been somehow set aside for a life of repetition. The creativity I dreamed of. The dreams of being a platform artist, educator and travelling the world. I also lost the love of creating hair just for the sake of the art itself. All those things had been placed in the back of my mind. I believed the saying, “Not everything is meant for you.”

It’s not for lack of work that I wasn’t where I thought I would be—it was for lack of self-confidence. I had resigned to, excitedly, waiting for my monthly Salon magazine to arrive and staring at every page dreaming of an alternate world where creating those photos was a reality.

Then, in 2008, for the first time, I wanted to try something that scared me. I planned my first shoot for Master Colourist for Contessa (it was the first year of that category). I made semifinals for Contessa in both Master Colourist and the then category, Makeover Colourist. The day I received the call I was a finalist I cried. It was unimaginable to me that it could even be possible.

When I attended Contessa that year, for the first time, just being there felt like the achievement of a lifetime. I was in awe. Standing near me were all the hair idols I had admired from afar for years.

74 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2018

When my first category was up and a name was called, I began to clap. I was just so happy to be there and to be able to clap for someone! What I didn’t hear was that they’d called my name.

My photographer, Greg Swales, was sitting on one side of me and my grown daughter was sitting on the other. She hit my leg and said, “Mom, it’s you.” I couldn’t stand up. Greg had to take my hand and walk me on stage. I have no idea what I said, I just know I ‘ugly cried’ complete and utter joy.

That night I also won my other category. I remember calling my mother, who was also a hairdresser, from the bathroom that night crying, telling her “Mom, I won.”

The following year I had a repeat—I won the same two categories for Contessa.

After that, I became an educator for Goldwell, the colour line and company I’d loved for so long. Nine years and eight Contessas later, I live a life I could only have dreamed of. I travel the world.

I mentor and teach. I do photo shoots and create. The passion I lost not only came back—it came back 100 fold.

What the Contessa Awards gave me is truly more than I can ever put into

words. It’s more than my career. I found a belief in myself that changed every aspect of my life. I learned that anything is possible if you’re willing to work hard and take chances.

I am so grateful for the platform you have given hairdressers to express themselves and their art. I am so grateful for the experiences and lessons.

Thank you, Salon. Wishing you many more years of beautiful hair and inspiration to all the young hairstylists out there.

— MICHELLE PARGEE, CONTESSA-WINNING FREELANCE HAIRSTYLIST BASED IN BRITISH COLUMBIA

PHOTOS: SALON AND CONTESSA AWARDS ARCHIVES

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