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C ON T E S SA 31 F I NA L IST S !
Women of Influence N OV E M B E R+D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9
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NEW SHADES EQ LEVEL 10s
OUR BEST TONERS FOR HIGH LEVEL BLONDES
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The wait is over—Shades EQ Gloss shades are now available at a level 10! The new Level 10 toners have calibrated deposit to give you on-level, true-to-tone results at level 10. Powered by our two star shade families, Natural (N) and Violet (V), introducing 010N Delicate Natural and 010VV Lavender Ice. Get ready for our highest level of customized toning perfection for your brightest blonde clients! @Redken
Craft c ool browns
NEW IGORA RAW ESSENTIALS - A palette of cool brown tones underlined with a subtle and minimalistic glow - Dual application trend collection based on 4 IGORA ROYAL and 4 IGORA VIBRANCE shades
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professional haircare + tools from Brooklyn. amika products are like a good friend: straightforward, dependable, and fun to spend time with. always cruelty-free.
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For more information, contact: kim@kimtannerbeauty.com 416.991.7827 | www.kimtannerbeauty.com
November+December 2019
31 F E AT U R E
Wonder Women
We’re spotlighting 14 of the industry’s top women of influence, who are paving the way for others—yet doing it in their own way.
39 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
Christophe Gaillet; Ashley Haynes & Charlotte Oldfield; Jordan Hone; Brodie Lee Tsiknaris; Marcello Moccia & Karen Perry; The Mahogany Creative Team; Hayley Keep
40 C H R I S T O P H E GA I L L E T, ACA D E M Y I . C . E . , F R A N C E
54 F E AT U R E
Contessa 2020 Finalists! The list you’ve all been waiting for is finally here: Announcing the finalists for the 31st annual Contessa Awards!
“With an industry with so many women, we need to lift each other up more.” —MICHELLE PARGEE, A CONTESSA-AWARD WINNING HAIRSTYLIST BASED IN SECHELT, B.C. ON THE COVER: COLOUR: JORDAN HONE, SLOANS, AUSTRALIA, HAIR: SCOTT SLOAN, MAKEUP: CHEREINE WADDELL, STYLING: JANA BARTOLO, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 7
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Editor’s Letter
12
Publisher’s Note
55
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C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Véronique Girard
L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Find out how this 2019 Contessa finalist for Makeup Artist stepped out of her comfort zone to create a collection fit for a royal.
From serious #hairinspo collections and all things Contessa, to how-tos, tips and more, find us online!
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W H AT ’ S N E W
ASHLEY H AY N E S & CHARLOTTE OLDFIELD, RU S H H A I R , U . K .
INTER IORS
Hairlines
Changing seasons calls for a change in routine! End the year off right with the latest in care, colour, and styling— plus tools and #nailinspo.
Seeing Pink
An inside look at this downsized yet delightful Montreal-based salon.
58 BUSINESS
Feeling the Burn
Tips for handling burnout in the salon and ways to prevent it from taking a toll on your team—and your business.
60 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
Events + Scoop
66 SA LON STOR IE S
In Conversation with Nathalie Roos
The global president of L’Oréal Professional Products Division opens up about the challenges salons are facing, and how the company is making moves to support and develop hairstylists.
48 M A RC E L L O MOCCI A & K A R E N P E R RY, RO O M 9 7 C R E AT I V E , U . K .
8 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
INTRODUCING
OUR BEST RANGE FOR LONG LASTING CURL DEFINITION These new NUTRICURLS products provide your wavy and curly clients with the right level of nourishment for beautiful bouncy locks. The special NOURISH-IN Complex with wheat bran extract and jojoba oil helps to make the curls defined, soft and manageable, while reducing frizz. Seal in nourishment and lock out the humidity with EIMI NUTRICURLS styling products. Make curls even more defined and fight frizz... for up to 72 hours! Finally a complete and tailored specialty line for your curly clients. © 2019 THE WELLA CORPORATION, CALABASAS, CA 91302 1-800-935-5273 (USA) 1-800-267-1962 (Canada)
Editor’s Letter —
NEW! REFRESH WITH HOLD
Reactivate your curls. Refresh keeps your curls beautiful In-Between Washes! ADDS VOLUME, & DEFINITION NEUTRALIZES ODOURS WORKS IN HUMIDITY
As business owners and leaders, women offer a unique perspective—one that can simultaneously strengthen and soften a team. The challenge is, with life moving at a warp-speed pace, it’s vital that we find balance between investing much-needed time and energy on ourselves while also focusing on our business/career goals. Whether you’re a hairstylist, colourist, or nail or makeup artist, you know that dedicated brainstorming sessions can inspire some of your very best work. With this truth in mind, I was thrilled to be invited to the Elevated Stylist Retreat (p.64) in Muskoka, Ontario in September. Created by Jody Kezar and Sonia Yarkhani, co-owners of Evolve Hair Studio in Toronto, this event gave hairstylists a new way to view their business through the lens of mindfulness, and one I believe can benefit professionals as a whole. In this issue, we’re proudly highlighting women who are doing things a little differently and challenging the status quo. Along with these forward-thinking females, we’re also announcing our 2020 Contessa Awards finalists! Excited doesn’t begin to cover how we felt when compiling this list, and we hope that’s how you’ll feel when reading it. Finally, it has been a dream sharing your stories on these pages, celebrating your award-winning successes, and watching many of you become the strong beauty pros you are today. There are so many ways in which we can all #dreambig in this business, and we hope this issue (and others!) keep you inspired, aspiring and bringing your next #dreambig moment to life!
INTRO DEALS NOW AVAILABLE
Tor 7 onto 193 Barber and Beauty Supply Since
112 Orfus Rd North York, ON
To order, contact: Jennifer@tbbs.ca | www.tbbs.ca | 416 787 1211 10 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
Unique Views
revlonprofessional.com @RevlonProNA #createboldly
NEW
10 real benefits for fine hair. UniqOne™ has created the ultimate multi-benefit experience for women looking to boost body and volume in fine hair. The new UniqOne™ Foam Treatment has been formulated with a light foam texture that helps to provide all the care benefits of a leave-in mask without adding weight. Discover professional repair results and spectacular, healthylooking fine hair.
Create Boldly. Live Boldly.
Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 9 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca
Publisher’s Note —
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Paul C, Yasmin Grothé
GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca
Real Life Lessons
Laura Dunphy Publisher
12 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131
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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Over the years, I’ve been so fortunate to connect with many amazing women who have helped shape my career, even if their impact on me wasn’t immediately evident. Early in my career I landed a coveted position at From the Neck Up, in Halifax. The salon owner, Sandy Dauphinee, was a recently divorced mother of two young sons, ran a vibrant business and was someone I admired. Before working with her, I regularly attended Sandy’s hair shows, watching her and her impressive team create hair magic. When I eventually became part of her team, I was over the moon to be part of a salon where I could learn so much. I still recall that in those early days, there was a part of me that felt incredibly intimidated, but there really was no need to. In her quiet manner, Sandy opened my eyes to the opportunities that lay ahead. When I think about influential women in our salon industry today, there are many that come to mind. So many, in fact, that it was no small feat for our editors to create a shortlist of women for this issue’s Wonder Women feature on page 31. The reality is that stories of these interesting women—and others like them—could easily fill five magazines. And if there’s one common trait they all share, as do so many industry players who’ve found lasting success, it’s this: tenacity. Facing adversity head-on cultivates a passion for longevity, which is certainly a prerequisite for success. For women in particular, being in business brings a unique set of challenges. Having children, raising a young family and racing back and forth to the salon to juggle responsibilities is taxing enough, never mind that running a business, doesn’t come naturally to most. As Sandy and countless other women in this industry know, part of growing professionally means passing on what we have learned to those following in our footsteps. It’s this pay-it-forward mindset that helps the industry learn and grow, and helping all of us strive to reach new heights.
CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon
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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.
NEW A NEW CARE LINE INSPIRED BY OUR AWARD WINNING DARK OIL
THE
DARK OIL LINEUP
3X Smoother* hair with a lightweight finish A regimen to which rules don’t apply, inspired by our iconic styling oil, leveraging its unique benefits: mesmerizing fragrance and lightweight finish to give you smooth & shiny hair with natural body.
*Shampoo, Mask and Dark Oil vs non-conditioning Shampoo www.sebastianprofessional.com facebook.com/SebastianPro © 2019 THE WELLA CORPORATION, CALABASAS, CA 91302 1-800-935-5273 (USA) 1-800-267-1962 (Canada)
So You Think You Can Style?
Fall in love with icy platinum shades, bold colours and festive hairstyles in our collection archive at SalonMagazine.ca.
14 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
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Season’s Greetings
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Congratulations to Sarah Rutter from Oshawa, Ont., on winning our latest “Power Ponytails” contest, sponsored by amika.
Contessa Fever! Stay up to date on everything #Contessa from now until after the gala at SalonMagazine.ca.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: SEAN GODARD, MAKEUP: DANIEL ADAM, STYLING: ADAM SNYDER, PHOTOS: RICHARD MONSIEURS; GETTY IMAGES
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salonmagazine.ca
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PHOTO: HAIR: ANTONIO PALLADINO, ANTONIO GIOVANNI HAIRDRESSING, U.K., MAKEUP: JO SUGAR, STYLING: JAMIE RUSSELL, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY
’TIS THE SEASON OF FRESH COLOUR, VOLUMINOUS STYLES AND TEXTURED LOOKS THAT WILL HAVE YOUR CLIENTS #ONPOINT FOR ALL THEIR SPECIAL EVENTS.
Inspired by the iconic style of Kate Moss, “Zephyr” is a collection by British hairstylist Antonio Paladino that features soft, feminine lines with tons of texture and movement. The result? Badass looks that ooze sex appeal. See the full collection at SalonMagazine.ca
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 15
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Thicken Up Hairlines — NEWS
Help clients regain their hair and confidence with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serioxyl.
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Hair loss is never an easy subject to tackle. And whether your clients are experiencing a lack of density, thinning hair or all of the above, L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Serioxyl is designed to help clients reclaim their selfconfidence. The line includes a clarifying and densifying shampoo for natural and colour-treated hair, thickening and detangling conditioner, volumizing sprays for blonde, light brown, dark brown, black, and grey hair. But the hero product is the Denser Hair Serum, a leave-in treatment that contains Stemoxydine (5%) and reservatrol, a popular beauty antioxidant that helps speed up results, which clients can begin to see in as little as six weeks!
Lift Off
Designed specifically for hair that’s, well, “density challenged,” this foam treatment has 10 benefits that include adding body, volume, and moisture—ideal for clients who could use all the benefits of a traditional hair mask but without the added weight.
Help your clients extend their looks this season with Joico’s Weekend Hair Dry Shampoo. Let’s face it: The holiday season is great for business, but it’s not always easy on the hair. From heat styling to extra-strong spray, hair may be in need of its own holiday. Help prolong styles with this dry shampoo that extends looks and boosts hair colour, thanks to a blend of rice starch and bentone clay. A formulation that absorbs oil, softens hair and adds lightweight volume, it also features an encapsulated fragrance that releases a fresh scent whenever hair is touched or brushed. 16 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
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Hair Holiday
PHOTO: L'OREAL PROFESSIONNEL, JOICO, REVLON PROFESSIONAL
Give fine-haired clients a boost with Revlon’s UniqOne Foam Treatment.
It’s not just any gel polish. It’s the original. Better color coverage. 2x faster removal.* No nail damage. 100+ colors.
CND SHELLAC TM
TM
NOTHING BEATS THE ORIGINAL
**
@CNDCanada CND.com/find-distributor
*when used as directed according to the CNDTM ShellacTM brand application and removal protocol available at CND.com / **CND™ SHELLAC™ and CND™ VINYLUX
Hairlines — NEWS
➣
Into the Deep Repair hair from the inside out with Biolage’s Deep Treatment Multi-Use Hair Masks. Working with lacklustre hair this season? Restore its glory with Biolage’s ColorLast, HydraSource and SmoothProof hair treatment masks. Each is specifically formulated to address common concerns, including dryness, dullness and frizz.
T O O L B OX
Reactivate curly styles with Curl Keeper Refresh. There are times when we wish our “good hair day” would magically morph into “good hair days.” Now it can with Curl Keeper Refresh by Curly Hair Solutions. This water-based styling spray helps boost hair by adding volume at the roots and removes odours for a lasting fresh effect.
Venturi effect for extra air flow
Long-lasting motor with a speed of 110,000 r.p.m (seven-times more powerful than other dryers!) |
|
| Nozzle hooks into dryer for stronger grip
| Sleek, lightweight design
“I haven’t been this impressed with a hair tool in years! It’s the most powerful yet lightweight dryer I’ve ever used. I love the modern design—it’s well balanced with even weight distribution, and not so bottom heavy. Plus, there are no issues with the magnetic attachments flying off.”
— KATHY SIMON, A CONTESSA AWARD-WINNING MONTREALBASED HAIRSTYLIST AND FOUNDER OF MEKKA SYSTEM
18 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
—
3 speed and 5 temperature settings with memory functions and sensor
—
LED display with auto-diagnosis system for troubleshooting
PHOTO: BIOLAGE, GAMA.PROFESSIONAL, CURLY HAIR SOLUTIONS
HIT REFRESH
iQ Dryer by Gama.Professional
DUAL TECHNOLOGY PLATES EXCEPTIONAL HEAT + GLIDE + DURABILITY
GRAPHITE TITANIUM
• • •
Graphite + Titanium’s heat conductivity accelerates heat transfer to help maintain even, stable temperatures, and excellent heat recovery for super-efficient styling results. Graphite’s extremely smooth surface delivers outstanding glide, reducing friction on the hair and making styling effortless. Graphite + Titanium’s strength delivers a styling tool that will stand up to the rigors of daily salon use, day-in day-out.
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Hot Commodity
Pulp Riot shakes things up with their styling line. Taking the colour world by storm, Pulp Riot has now added styling to their portfolio. With eight products including a clarifying shampoo, leave-in conditioner, sea salt spray, serum, finishing hairspray, root lifter, flexible hairspray and firm hold hairspray, each product has been named after eight of the city’s most iconic (and stylish) cities, including Toronto!
With the holidays just around the corner, heat-styling is in full effect. That means you’ll want to make sure you have all the right tools to get the job done. Hot Tools Professional has launched Black Gold, a five-piece line of styling tools including one-inch and 1.25-inch curling irons, flat iron, blow-dryer and volumizing brush. With the needs and demands of busy hairstylists in mind, the line features state-of-the-art technology, such as the brand’s 24-karat gold styling surface for even, consistent results. Plus, they are made with titanium for durability and include corrosion-resistance to protect the tools, while the Micro-Shine finish is designed to reduce friction and damage to hair.
Dannyco Professional becomes the exclusive Canadian distributor of the Split-Ender PRO 2. We all have those clients that want to grow out their hair but struggle to do so, due to damage and breakage. The Split-Ender PRO 2 is a cordless split-end trimmer that cuts hair at the ends, while protecting the length. How? Thanks to its Surgy-Trim system technology, the tool guides through the hair in a straight motion to trim approximately 0.25-inch at the ends. Not only is it faster and safer than using scissors, it can be a great addon service for clients looking to invest in ways to maintain their length while preserving hair’s health. And beginning in November, the Split-Ender PRO 2 will be available in Canada, exclusively via Dannyco Professional.
20 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
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Too Legit to Split
PHOTO: HOT TOOLS, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, PULP RIOT
S T Y L I N G S AV I O U R
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Hairlines — NEWS
Find out why Hot Tools Professional Black Gold tools are in a league of their own.
©1976, 2019 SANRIO CO., LTD. USED UNDER LICENSE. ©2019 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 800.829.4422 OR VISIT OPI.COM.
Be cute as a bow, from hand to toe! Say hello to the holidays with the Hello Kitty Collection by OPI. shop these NEW shades in GEL COLOR
• INFINITE SHINE • NAIL LACQUER
opi.com • #OPIxHELLOKITTY • #COLOR IS THE ANSWER
BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND...
S PA R K L E A N D SHINE
Hairlines — NAILS
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
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Gelish Get tinsled tips with Sprinkle of Twinkle from the Reaching for the Stars collection.
LCN There’s nothing basic about this decadent deep violet shade from the Purity collection.
Award-Winning Glam Celebrities graced the Emmys purple carpet with some eye-catching nail looks. These standouts caught our attention. 1 Actress Natasha Lyonne rocked it with a black-and-gold gel, half-moon mani. 2 Actor Billy Porter sported a showstopping silver-chrome mani, complete with Swarovski crystals. 3 Actress Julia Garner wore a modern twist on the classic French mani with a metallicgold polish complete with nude tip.
4 Who says nail art can’t be for everyone? Actress Joey King sported a minimalistic nude nail complete with small accent hearts on her ring and pinky fingers. 5 Singer Halsey donned a pretty lavender watercolour-designed mani. 6 Actress Kerry Washington amped up her black mani with crystal accents—on and under her nails!
CND The Crystal Alchemy collection features bold, feminine hues such as Lovely Quartz.
M O R E T O L OV E
Since entering the market, JamGel has gained notoriety for its products that help address the growing needs and demands of nail techs. Now, the brand has launched its new UV Gel Polish, a six-piece line of bold, playfully named shades such as red-hot Shut the Front Door! and hot-pink Catch Flights, Not Feelings. The new line is also long-lasting with a fast curing time (30 seconds with LED light and two minutes with UV light).
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A P U R R F E C T PA I R
OPI reunites with Hello Kitty for a new, limited edition polish collection. When OPI first teamed up with Hello Kitty in 2016 for the Hello Kitty collection by OPI, it was a huge success. So much so that it was the most talked about OPI collection, with the shade “Let’s Be Friends!” an instant hit. Now, in celebration of Hello Kitty’s 45th anniversary, the pair are reuniting—all in the spirit of omotenashi (the Japanese tradition of gift-giving). The 2019 Hello Kitty collection includes 15 ultra-feminine and festive hues that are perfect for the season. The collection is available in OPI Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor.
ORLY Give your manis the frosted look with Arctic Frost, a collection featuring teal glitter Ice Breaker.
Artistic Nail Design Shine on this season with glittery Yank My Gold Chain from Disco Nights, Festive Lights.
PHOTO: INSTAGRAM, TWITTER, GELISH, LCN, CND, ORLY, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, OPI, PROBEAUTY GROUP
JamGel adds UV Gel Polish to their portfolio.
revlonprofessional.com @RevlonProNA #createboldly
Limelight Collection
In collaboration with JEAN-SÉBASTIEN CHALUT, Global Master Artist, Revlon Professional™ Two time Quebec Hairstylist of the Year.
Create Boldly. Live Boldly.
Hairlines — INFLUENCER CONNECTION
Influencer Connection WITH THRIVING CAREERS IN PLACE, THESE TWO HAIRSTYLISTS DELVE INTO HOW SOCIAL MEDIA TOOK THEM IN A WHOLE NEW DIRECTION AND WHY RELATABLE CONTENT IS THE ONLY WAY TO KEEP GROWING.
Staëlle Coulombe Quebec City @staellecolorful (Followers: 14.7K) Claim to Fame Colour magician, Joico educator How has your social media following helped shift your career?
24 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
Mell Guido Woodbridge, Ont. @manesbymell (Followers: 60.7K) Claim to Fame Curly hair expert What are your tips for building an authentic, relatable brand?
My content directly reflects my niche in this business: curly hair. Curly hair is unruly, has a mind of its own, is natural and fun, and that’s how I like to keep my content. My clients and guests love that they already know me before coming to see me and that’s because I’m not a surprise face behind an Instagram page, making me more personable. Authenticity should come naturally when you really play off of your skills on your page. Share your tips (because people love learning more) and don’t be afraid to be open about yourself!
PHOTO: STAËLLE COULOMBE, MELL GUIDO
A few years ago, I started with Facebook and it took a few months to see that it was worth it. With Instagram, people around the world started to contact me. That international visibility gave me the opportunity to do shows, interviews and partnerships with brands. All the love I was receiving gave me the energy to continue posting more and more, and to share the fun I have every day with my clients. I already had a good reputation but social media helped bring my career to another level. I slowly became one of the top references in hair colour in Quebec and even beyond. People have even driven up to five hours so I could do their hair! It’s an amazing feeling. It also gave me the opportunity to travel to four different countries for work, and I really like travelling!
THINK FOILAYAGE IS ONLY FOR LIGHTENING AND BRIGHTENING? THINK AGAIN! TWO EXPERTS SHARE THEIR TIPS AND TRICKS FOR GIVING YOUR DARKER SHADES SOME “LIFT” THIS SEASON.
Foilayage #Facts We know that many clients are gravitating towards more natural-looking colour. And with balayage still going strong, more and more people are in search of low-maintenance colour. But let’s face it: That’s not necessarily good news for your salon business. Since lifting and lightening can be the key to getting clients back into the salon sooner, here’s how foilayage can be the solution for attracting more clients than you may think. What Exactly is Foilayage? Here’s where the debate begins! While many hairstylists believe it’s the combination of foils and balayage, in recent years foilayage has become its own trend. Not only can it be used for lifting and lightening the hair, it’s a great technique for adding depth and dimension to darker strands. “Foilayage is a technique we use a lot more than we think we do,” says Monia Grieco (@monia_grieco_colorist), a senior colourist at Salon Pure in Montreal. “It helps make a nice connection for grown-out colours. And it’s a good corrective technique, too.” For Lisa Dinh (@lisathidinh) and her team at Lisa Dinh Hair Studio in Toronto, foilayage is a key technique that the team uses and teaches in the salon. “For us, foilayage has been a major part of our business; it’s now more of a staple,” says Dinh. “Clients want lightness in their hair and in order to create that, we use foils.” Why Clients are Obsessed Foilayage is one of those trendy hair terms gaining steam on social media. So much so that you may be noticing clients request it by name!
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“Foilayage is great on so many people,” says Grieco. “I don’t think it’s colour-dependant; blondes, brunettes with soft caramel tones, redheads can play different variations of red. Everybody loves to feel special, and I think that one of the beautiful benefits of foilayage is that it pretty much works for everyone.” In addition to customizing the experience for clients by choosing colours that are right for them based on their hair shade, length, texture and face shape, Grieco recommends explaining the overall process. “In doing so we’re asking clients questions and analyzing their hair to create a personalized look. Clients get extra attention and will feel special.” “What clients love is that they can achieve the style they want in one to two sessions,” adds Dinh. “They can get the colour they want [faster], which is ideal. Lightening [without foils] can take three to five sessions.” Why Hairstylists Will Love It (If They Don’t Already!) As a hairstylist, you know how much foils can help the lightening process, since they help conduct heat to take lifting to the next level—literally. Foils also allow you to lighten larger sections of hair, which in turn helps save you time.
PHOTO: GETTY STOCK, LISA DINH
Hairlines — COLOUR
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Hairlines — COLOUR
“FOR THE WINTER MONTHS, PEOPLE CAN DO A REVERSE FOILAYAGE. SO INSTEAD OF ADDING BRIGHTER PIECES, THEY’LL TONE DOWN AND ADD DEPTH TO THE HAIR INSTEAD OF BRIGHTNESS.” – LISA DINH, OWNER OF LISA DINH HAIR STUDIO
PRO TIP GRIECO SUGGESTS USING A POWDER LIGHTENER RATHER THAN ONE THAT’S CLAY-BASED. “WHEN I USE FOILS, I TRY TO AVOID CLAY BECAUSE IT’S IS GOING TO DRY ON THE SURFACE AND THE THERMAL ACTION IS DIFFERENT BECAUSE OF THAT. I LIKE TO USE SOMETHING MORE TRADITIONAL.”
PRO TIP DINH ADVISES AGAINST OVERPACKING THE FOILS (READ: NOT PLACING THE FOILS TOO CLOSE TOGETHER). “YOU LOSE THAT DEPTH AND DIMENSION WHEN FOILS ARE OVERPACKED. IT CAN LOOK LIKE A SOLID COLOUR.”
Whichever technique you use for foilayage, the key is to practice, practice, practice. “When you’re going from darker to lighter [or vice versa], you need to respect that blend,” says Grieco. “It can already be difficult for some hairstylists to do, depending on the client’s hair, density, etc. Now that you’re adding a foil on top of that, you want to make sure that you still respect that blend and are not creating a hard cut-off line. Keep an eye on things and on how much you saturate the hair. It makes all the difference.”
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However, with foilayage, you’re still able to enjoy using balayage and freehand painting techniques but with more control over the placements. “Each artist is able to design and separate the head the way they want, depending on haircuts.” If there are layers or full weight line lengths or bangs, or depending on the thickness, texture and density of the hair, Grieco says she prefers using an “alternate angles” foilayage technique. “Starting at the occipital, I take a straight line and freehand paint it, but instead of following the same pattern throughout the head, I might take a straight line and then move into a diagonal,” she explains. “It covers more territory because of my alternate angled lines. And depending on if there are layers or a heavier weight line, the fall and fluidity of the hair is a little softer and more natural.”
place foils high and low [on the head] to create more depth and dimension,” she says. “The placement of the foils makes the hair look so much more natural. The technique is a game changer.” For higher-placed foils, Dinh recommends using babylights or balayage closer to the root or opting for a traditional full head of foils. For the lower-placed foils, she says this is more visual and creative “depending on how low you want the brightness and contrast. Foils are like contouring for hair, so less is more.”
Magic number? Approximately 40 foils for mid-length and up to 60 for longer hair.
Dinh uses a “high and low” technique, which she teaches when hosting education classes in her salon. “In order to create a lot of depth and dimension in the hair while keeping it light, we salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 27
Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS
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WITH THE SEASON OF GIVING UPON US, WE’VE ROUNDED UP OUR TOP STYLING PICKS THAT YOU’LL WANT TO ADD TO YOUR WISHLISTS.
1 POLISH UP with Moroccanoil’s Body Polishing Scrub, containing a blend of six oils (including argan) to hydrate, smoothen and brighten skin. 2 SIX-IN-ONE styling, thanks to Virtue’s 6-in-1 Styler. This lightweight cream adds softness, shine and hydration yet strengthens, polishes and prevents damage. 3 SHIELD OFF damage with #Mydentity by Guy Tang’s #MyDefender Spray, a lightweight spray that helps hair maintain moisture during heat-styling and prevent breakage. 4 MAXIMUM LIFT without the weight with Redken’s Triple Pure 32, the brand’s first hairspray that provides extreme hold and features a neutral fragrance and minimal ingredients. 5 BRUSH UP with Olivia Garden’s NanoThermic Ceramic + Ion thermal brush from the brand’s Plaid Collection, featuring soft-tip, heat-resistant bristles and extra-large vents to reduce drying time. 6 GET HIGH volume with Design.Me’s Lift.Me Volumizing Mousse that adds fullness and body to hair while providing heat and humidity protection.
28 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C
Sharing is Caring
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Superior Styling When it comes to hair extensions, it can be overwhelming to choose between brands, but now there’s an option available in Canada. Philocaly Hair Extensions offers the most premium range of Slavic tape-in, hand-tied, machine-weft and clip-in hair extensions. Find out why hairstylists couldn’t be more excited!
As the owner of Guide Hair Salon in Saskatoon, Kara Firman has a strong understanding of what her clients are looking for. From rich brunettes and buttery blondes, to blunt bobs and longer styles, she says the majority of her clients want to add volume, fullness and length to their hair. As a result, Firman expanded her hairstyling skills to include hair extensions and she’s never looked back. When it came time to choose the right brand of hair extensions, she was looking for a brand that used Slavic hair—the highest quality, industry standard in hair extensions, due to the fact that it is an ideal texture match for Caucasian clients compared to other varieties like Indian and Asian hair. When Firman was introduced to Philocaly, the hairstylist was not only impressed with the quality, but also the variety of colour options. “I have a lot of blonde clients who want added fullness, and Philocaly’s options in terms of hair colour are extensive.” Slavic hair has the advantage of reaching the most desirable blonde shades. Also, because the product does not have any silicone on it, it allows for the hair extensions to colour accurately. For Firman, finding a Canadian brand was also important. “As a business owner, it is important for me to support Canadian brands” she says. As a Canadian company, Philocaly makes it easy and convenient when it comes to ordering and delivery, offering 1-2 day shipping times within Canada. Philocaly hair extensions are an extension brand you can feel confident offering to your clients. Not only because they are a Canadian brand which offers the most premium tape-in, handtied, machine-weft and clip-in options but also because the hair is guaranteed to be ethically sourced from their factory in Moscow.
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Wonder Women As the rise of women in the beauty industry continues strong and steady, we caught up with individuals who are stepping up their game as creative leaders, business builders and allaround outstanding professionals in their own right. Here’s what each had to say about staying focused, engaging the next generation and more! ➤
PHOTO: GETTY STOCK
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO AND VERONICA BOODHAN
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 31
1. Dawn Bradley BEST KNOWN FOR Focusing on stylist-to-stylist health/wellness with @theanxiouscreative, a podcast about cultivating creativity through anxiety.
GOOD WORK “I donate 10 per cent of my online earnings to a women’s shelter in Calgary because when I first started my salon, I was in an unhealthy marriage. With my salon, I wanted to create a place
where women could come and be themselves, take the weight off their shoulders and feel supported. I would love for there to be more support out there.”
Leeanne Colley LISTEN UP “I started the podcast with the idea of my clients talking to me, and the whole idea of oversharing in the salon chair. I knew I wanted it to be more, but sometimes you have to start things and they evolve organically. Now it’s about relationships at work, with your clients and how anxiety can sometimes take over. It’s been a great way to relate to people, and it’s really rewarding!”
3. BEST KNOWN AS A celebrity hairstylist, TV personality, and owner of JouJou Hair Studio in Toronto.
STARS ALIGNED “I’m known for being able to work with all hair types and textures. Celebrities come back [to me] because I not only style their
BEST KNOWN AS A Contessa award-winning editorial nail artist and owner of Tips Nail Bar in Toronto. LEADERSHIPS SKILLS “I feel we have cultivated a team of awardwinning nail artists who are always looking for new ways to grow. My team members are partners, not staff. You really have to focus on creating an amazing culture in order to build something amazing. I would also say being open and honest with yourself has helped me a great deal.” PROUD MOMENT “I recently had one of those pinch me moments when looking back at how the team has grown. We now have [more than] 25 team members and we continue to keep our standards high. There’s also a very specific focus on keeping colleague relationships strong.
Janet Jackson
EMBRACING THE UNEXPECTED “I wasn’t planning on being a hairstylist but I became passionate about being able to transform people and help them see another version of themselves. Now, I have a salon with a staff of 15. I came from a low-income family and grew up in a stereotypical bad neighbourhood, so, people who know where I came from and see where I am now, remind me of how far I’ve come.”
2.
hair, I’m concerned about caring for their natural hair. When working with celebrities, you can’t be sensitive with who you are as an artist. Listening is key; I always tell stylists, ‘Never act like you know it all.’”
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BREAKING BARRIERS “Even now, the industry is very male-dominated. Not only am I a woman, I’m also a woman of colour, which makes it a little harder. In this industry, there have been many times when I’ve felt like an outcast, but I always look at these scenarios and take the positive from them. The fact that I’m not seeing someone like myself at the top is very discouraging, but it’s not going to stop me from trying to climb.”
TEAM IN TRAINING “We are all represented by an artist management group, so everyone on our team can do advertising campaigns and work with celebrities. There are so many exciting opportunities that extend beyond working in the salon.” FIND YOUR PASSION “Seeing my team members grow, finding out how to get them to the next steps and finding out what excites them— those are all part of my passion.”
PHOTOS: DAWN BRADLEY, LEEANNE COLLEY, JANET JACKSON, ROSSA JURENAS, THE ELEVATED STYLIST
ONE TO GROW ON “Going through my own personal journey dealing with what anxiety is, and then realizing that other people feel this way, made me realize I wanted to be someone I would have benefitted from having in my life during those difficult times. There are so many skilled stylists out there that haven’t learned how to communicate clearly; my new education has been born out of my own self-doubt, learning how to trust the process and helping myself and others communicate better with clients.”
4. Rossa Jurenas BEST KNOWN AS A Contessa award-winning hairstylist and North American colour director for Schwarzkopf Professional POWER OF PRESENTATION “We are all learning from each other. When you inspire one another on stage and presenting, my favourite part is telling a relatable story, that’s the cool part. I used to feel that showing the overall look was important but it’s much more than that. The past couple of years it’s been fun being able to relate in this way.” ADVICE FOR GEN NEXT “There’s a difference in taking the whole concept versus being inspired by the techniques of others. For example, I started using paint rollers to colour hair. You aren’t using that in a salon, but from seeing someone do that you can build something with your own ideas.”
NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE “I live in a small town, I have kids and I’m still following my passion. It can be done! Yes, there are going to be ups and downs. Our industry is a roller coaster, but don’t dwell on the negativity. Take ownership of your situation and other doors will open for you. You need to think about how to get better.”
5.
“I WANT PEOPLE TO REALIZE THAT THE SKY IS THE LIMIT WITH HAIRSTYLING. WHETHER YOU’RE BLACK, WHITE, FEMALE, MALE, HAIRSTYLING CAN TAKE YOU ANYWHERE.” —JANET JACKSON
Jody Kezar BEST KNOWN AS A hairstylist for 15+ years, co-owner of Evolve Hair Studio in Toronto and co-founder of The Elevated Stylist—Canada’s first all-inclusive education and wellness retreat designed specifically for hairstylists.
6. Sonia Yarkhani
Jody (left) and Sonia (right).
BEST KNOWN AS A hairstylist for 15+ years, co-owner of Evolve Hair Studio in Toronto and co-founder of The Elevated Stylist—Canada’s first all-inclusive education and wellness retreat designed specifically for hairstylists. BATTLING BURNOUT “[Jody and I] were doing everything in the salon—working almost five days a week, trying to manage our staff while trying to expand our salon at the same time. It got to a point where we were burnt out, and that can lead you to react to a lot to things; it could be the smallest thing and it could set
you off because you’re just tired. You’re always putting energy out but you’re not replenishing it in. We both—separately—took the road to mindfulness, and then it led us to take a course together. That was what really helped us, together, as a team, shift the salon. Having that balance and really being firm about your decisions; ‘No, I’m not going to
ON CO-FOUNDING THE ELEVATED STYLIST “The hair industry is at a point where we need to come together, especially in light of social media. We need to be supporting each other face to face. There’s nothing that beats a human connection. We want to build a community. Our [slogan] is ‘Together we rise.’ Everybody shares with each other. There are different ways and outlets to being successful. This is such an amazing industry, but I think for such
take that extra client for that extra bit of money. Or I’m not going to sacrifice my lunch.’ You have to learn to say no. It takes a lot of power to say no. Mindfulness has taught me that. Naming [our salon] Evolve keeps us evolving. We stay true to our name, and it push us forward through adversity.” ➤
a long time [hairstylists] haven’t been taken seriously. The industry is ready for a shift. I think everybody is sick of being looked at as ‘They’re just artists.’ But really, we make people beautiful and help people feel good and confident every single day. In order for you to feel passionate and confident behind your chair, you need to be involved with people like that.” MINDFUL MATTERS “As hairstylists we need to be more mindful, not only with our guests but with ourselves. We keep thinking about the next appointment, the next this, the next that. Mindfulness is about being here, now. When you focus on being [present], you experience less stress, less anxiety, less depression and less burnout because your brain is not working overtime thinking about a million different things that you have to do.”
READ MORE ABOUT THE ELEVATED STYLIST RETREAT IN OUR EVENTS SECTION ON PAGE 64.
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 33
7. Matula Liounis BEST KNOWN AS A men’s hairstylist with 20+ years of experience, and All-Star Educator for American Crew Canada. BEING A WOMAN IN A “MAN’S” WORLD “Sometimes I think when people see me, for example, wearing a dress, they might think ‘Oh, she’s going to cut men’s hair? She’s going to show us how to use clippers?’ And I think that’s just my image. We all have our own image. I dress up, and sometimes when I walk into a room and someone is teaching men’s hair, they may not expect me. They might be expecting what a lot of barbers look like now.”
8. TEACHING STYLE “As a woman, I think I’m a little more compassionate. If someone is having a really hard time in a handson class, I’m more like a motherly figure. I really want to help them [understand] it. I don’t care how long it takes! I won’t dismiss the person having struggles.”
Jennifer MacDougall BEST KNOWN AS Television and editorial hairstylist
SALONS OF THE FUTURE “There are a lot of opportunities to use apps for consultations. I picture the mirrors at salon stations to be able to be swiped across. There is a lot of room for this in the salon, but we aren’t there just yet. I think we’re
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BEST KNOWN AS A contessa award winner, hairstylist for 25+ years, owner of Supernova Salon in North Vancouver, mentor, educator and top stylist for Wella. FROM THE GROUND UP “For the first 10 years [of being a salon owner], I had a very small salon, which is how a lot of people start. But I had aspirations for more—to have a bigger team, to be able to learn from different people, to teach people, and to be honest, to have a bigger influence in the industry.” EDUCATION TODAY “I just want to support young, talented hairstylists coming out of school, and for them to have an opportunity to learn and grow and become great hairstylists. Our industry is changing and having a bigger salon really offers me the opportunity to do more for the industry—to be part of it in a bigger way, and to make a difference.”
9. BEST EXPERIENCE “I loved Project Runway, I did the show for six seasons. One moment that stands out from that experience is working with Joan Rivers. She was a guest judge and her hairstylist was sick so I was chosen to do her hair and I got booked for another job with her in L.A.”
Dana Lyseng
going to see a lot more ways to reach the client digitally. I think you’ll see more in-salon experiences being offered.” ADVICE FOR GEN NEXT “Keep yourself out there and believe in your work. Ask questions, network, and take the education you need to. Never wait for anyone to give you the opportunity. A lot of people see success and term it as luck—they don’t see the work in between it all. Don’t be afraid to ask for the opportunity of someone in a role you want to be in, that’s important. It’s not only the glamorous part you’ll have to deal with.”
TEACHING AND LEARNING “I’ve learned not to impart my vision onto somebody else’s vision. The point is to help them figure out what they’re doing and offer them options on how to get there. It’s one thing to copy what somebody says, and it’s another thing to truly understand. If we never push it and make mistakes, are we really learning? I think it’s ok to fix things every once in a while. That’s where you really learn.”
PHOTOS: TK MATULA LIOUNIS, DANA LYSENG, JENNIFER MACDOUGALL, GUYLAINE MARTEL, ANNA PACITTO, MICHELLE PARGEE
BEING A MAN EXPERT “I think I was more attracted to men’s haircutting because both of my grandfathers were barbers back in Greece, which is where my parents are from. My brother played soccer, so when I was training to cut hair, I would cut his and all of his [teammates’] hair. I’ve always felt comfortable cutting men’s hair and explaining to them what I’m doing and why I’m doing it.”
11. Anna Pacitto BEST KNOWN AS A Contessa award-winning hairstylist, educator, co-owner of Salon Pure in Montreal, artistic team member for Davines and artistic director for Intercoiffure America/Canada.
10.
Guylaine Martel BEST KNOWN FOR Global stage presentations and Contessawinning photographic collections. ON HER ART “I have always been more of an artist than a hairstylist. I studied four years as a visual artist, and as a hairstylist I’m able to touch on all of the aspects of art; from the styling to the hair, to the music to the show.” ON SHOWS “When I create a show or a photo shoot. I work closely with the team. I know exactly every moment of the five minutes I may be on stage, and I make sure we are getting to that one big moment. There’s always a story behind what I do. I always start with an emotion. It’s very important that people see my work and feel something and keep it in their mind and heart.” TELL YOUR STORY “It’s really important for me to express environmental [issues] and social problems through all I do but you also need to have a positive message. People may cry because it reminds them of something, but they will leave feeling positive.” ADVICE TO YOUNG HAIRSTYLISTS “Go see shows and travel. For years I went backstage at so many shows in Paris, which is how I learned to look at every aspect and prepare the final stage show. Don’t wait for someone to come to you—be proactive.”
TAKING THE PRESSURE OFF “When I started winning awards and [working] as a platform artist, that’s when I was like, ‘I’m a woman, and I have to work that much harder.’ It’s really strange because I didn’t feel it in the beginning [of my career]; It wasn’t until 1998, when I won Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, and no woman ever won it before. Even though there are so many more women in our industry, men are the ones that have the big roles. But I didn’t make it a factor [in my career]. I’m just going to show good work. That’s it. I don’t let [being a woman] faze me. If you stop to think about it, that’s when you limit yourself.”
12. Michelle Pargee BEST KNOWN AS A Contessa winner, Goldwell artistic team member/educator/mentor, Canadian member of The Leading Ladies, and cancer survivor. HAIR HEROINE “[Mentoring] has happened organically because people started asking me for help. I would go and sit in on people’s shoots, and realized how rewarding it was. When you’re teaching someone, you’re teaching, but when you’re mentoring, your job is not to show them what you can do, your job is to show them what they can do. When I’m mentoring and I see
FINDING BALANCE “Sometimes, something’s got to give. I do what I can. I’m busy, but I enjoy what I do. And when you enjoy what you do, you find the time for it. In the beginning, you can have a hard time delegating. But after so many years, you realize you have to delegate and you have to trust, and give responsibilities to others around you. It’s easy when you’re surrounded by good people. You just have to surround yourself with people who know what is
happening, what needs to be done, and be at the forefront. I still take classes, have mentors and follow people. I’m always amazed by what other people do, and I’m not afraid to give praise to others. Looking around and seeing what other people can do, I’m inspired by what I’m seeing. The day I stop taking classes is the day I hang up my scissors.”
“I’M A BELIEVER IN THAT IF YOU WANT TO GET BETTER, YOU NEED TO HANG OUT WITH PEOPLE WHO ARE BETTER THAN YOU.” –DANA LYSENG
someone succeed—for example, when they win an award—that’s actually a hundred-times better than the feeling I have when I’ve won on my own. To me, mentoring is what anyone who’s reached a certain level in their career should be doing. You should start giving back.” ON BEING PART OF “THE LEADING LADIES” PANEL AT THE
TORONTO ABA SHOW “I was so honoured that Tracey [Hughes] asked me to be on the panel. She told me not to be afraid to be raw about my health journey. What I loved was that was that it wasn’t about hairdressing and skills; it was just about who we are and our journeys. It was such an emotional experience. People were crying and hugging me afterwards, telling me how it was to hear someone talk about how powerful it is to be positive.” ➤
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 35
13. Kristin Rankin BEST KNOWN AS Owner of Fox & Jane salon in Toronto, and founder of the Dress Code Project—an alliance of salons and barbershops committed to providing genderaffirming services.
“IN 2020, 40 PER CENT OF OUR CONSUMER POPULATION IS GOING TO BE [MILLENNIALS OR GENERATION Z], AND WE HAVE TO LISTEN TO WHAT THEY HAVE TO SAY. AND WHAT THEY’RE SAYING IS THEY’RE FLUID, AND THEY DO NOT WANT TO BE PUT IN BOXES.” —KRISTIN RANKIN
Disclaimer: Kristin identifies as a queer woman, and also uses nonbinary pronouns (they/them/their).
TAKING A STAND “If you look at someone like myself, a cis-gender female with short hair, I’ll be paying the women’s haircut price. But if I go to a salon that’s gender-affirming, I’m going to pay the short-hair price, which is typically more affordable. Why should we pay more because we’re women? It’s ridiculous and offensive.” ON MODERATING THE GENDER NEUTRAL IN HAIRDRESSING PANEL AT THE TORONTO ABA SHOW “It was [an honour] to moderate something like that in our community. I just think hairstylists are incredible people. We’re such game changers and trailblazers with passion and love for what we do. I believe in our industry so much; one person can make a difference.”
36 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
14. Josie Vilay BEST KNOWN AS A Contessa award-winning hairstylist and influencer, delivering colour education using humour and science to create surprisingly insightful videos. TRADE SECRETS “Number one and two have been loyalty and honesty, and by that I mean staying loyal to brands that you know in your heart you enjoy using. In my experience, you’re going to get approached by a number of different companies and your honesty will come through in your posts.” FIND YOUR PASSION “Passion has driven me to teach. My goal is to educate both clients and stylists so that they both understand the cost of colouring hair. I see a lot of people who have questions on colour correction and I’m trying to get everyone on the same page.”
BEST ADVICE TO GET INSPIRED “Get off the grid for at least two weeks. I felt more creative and clear after taking about a month-long break. When you have time away you can figure out how you need to change something.” PERSONALITY PLUS “People trust me, I don’t hold back and I do that all through using humour. For me, it’s about being relatable. As soon as I can get people to trust me, I can add humour in. Be yourself and I think you can naturally relate to people.” STAYING CREATIVE “I have a six-year-old, so I watch a lot of science shows. When I do, I find that I’m my most creative. I always think about how to enhance people’s senses through my videos so that they’ll have a better experience and understand [my teaching methods] better.”
PHOTOS: KRISTIN RANKIN, JOSIE VILAY
CLOSE TO HEART “To me, [gender diversity] goes along with who I am as a person. My gender identity is very androgynous. My gender expression has changed over the years, and expression for hairstylists is gigantic! Every single day, I stand behind a chair helping people visualize and create a gender expression—whether they know it or not.”
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November+December
An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 39
Collections — PARIS-LONDON
Highfashion meets street-style in this chic yet mysterious French collection.
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HAIR Christophe Gaillet, Academy I.C.E., France MAKEUP Natasza Bigos STYLING Joanna Wolff PHOTOS Pawel Wylag salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 41
Collections — AURUM
Textured cuts with ultrafeminine styling make this British collection a showstopper.
HAIR Ashley Haynes & Charlotte Oldfield, Rush Hair, U.K. MAKEUP Megumi Matsuno STYLING Magdalena Jacobs PHOTOS Jack Eames
42 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 43
Collections — BOTANICA
Feminine styles are elevated with pastel and metallic tones in this Australian collection. COLOUR Jordan Hone, Sloans, Australia HAIR Scott Sloan MAKEUP Chereine Waddell STYLING Jana Bartolo PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 45
Collections — SCHÖN
Masterful techniques are fused with out-of-the-box creativity in this unconventionally beautiful Australian collection.
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HAIR Brodie Lee Tsiknaris, Rokstar, Australia MAKEUP Mikele Simone STYLING Sarah Birchley PHOTOS Jen Wilding salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 47
Collections — COOL FIBRES
This British Hairdressing Award-winning collection features a range of moody styles featuring soft lines and undone texture.
HAIR Marcello Moccia & Karen Perry, Room97 Creative, U.K. MAKEUP Maddie Austin STYLING Desire Leader PHOTOS Richard Miles
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 49
Collections — GLAM POP
Vintage rock ’n’ roll combines with street-style in this colourful, cutting-edge British collection.
HAIR The Mahogany Creative Team, U.K. MAKEUP Claire De-Graft STYLING Chloe Holland PHOTOS Nessi
50 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 51
Collections — STRUCTURALLY SOUND
With royal, statuesque vibes, this collection features unmistakable styles, textures and raw finishes.
HAIR Hayley Keep, Earth Wind Fire Hair, Australia MAKEUP Vikki Aldridge STYLING Suzanna Paravac PHOTOS Meii Nguyen
52 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
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Contessa 2020 Finalists! CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute Toronto, Toronto Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta. Morgan Roy, Aveda Academy Salon, Toronto Maggie Semaan, Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan, Laval, Que. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. M Coiffure, Montreal Marc Bernier Coiffure, Ste-Julie, Que. Monokrome Salon, Montreal Opus Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Salon Espace K, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Que. Taz Hair Co., Toronto Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Patrick G. Nadeau, RDV par Patrick G. Nadeau, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa MASTER COLOURIST Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta. Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michael Shire, Taz Hair Co., Toronto SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Aprille Bouchard, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Lauren Oxford, Mousy Browns, Edmonton, Alta. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Tracey Devine-Smith, Glamour UAE, London, U.K. Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson, Mansfield, U.K. Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney, South Australia Rick Roberts, Rick Roberts Salon, East Yorkshire, U.K. Cristina Tatasciore, Flipped Hair, Melbourne, Australia CANADIAN COLOURIST Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Maggie Semaan, Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan, Laval, Que. Mirella Sementilli Rota, Freelance, Woodbridge, Ont.
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ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove Jason Fournier, J.Fournier Hair Design, Calgary Chelsea Mann, Chelsea Mann Hair Company, St. Albert Simone Pettigrew, Salon Social, Edmonton ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Sharon Keller, Bounce! Hair Studio, Long Creek, P.E.I. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Ali Pike, The Seahorse Salon, St. John’s, Nfld. Tara Tobin, The Hair Studio & Spa, St. John’s, Nfld. BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Armineh Damanpak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Soyeon (Jessy) Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock Lauren Green, LgHairstyles, Aylmer Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Etienne Cloutier, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Mathieu Daigle, Atelier Mega Coiffure, Québec Sonia Dallaire, Salon Espace C, Brossard Sophie Tessier, Salon Larousse, Montreal Jason Williams, Salon Espace K, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu
MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Eric Charpentier, Apart Studio, Montreal Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Jason Massa, Lexa Coiffure, Brossard, Que. Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Marilyn Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Eva Abraha, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Jean-Sébastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Soyeon (Jessy) Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto NEW HAIRSTYLIST Angela Debono, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Frederick Levesque, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Laura Metansinine, Richardson Hair Design, Kemptville, Ont. Michelle Nahmad, Blushes, Ottawa Aislin O’Brien, The Hair Company, Newmarket, Ont. STUDENT-APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Alicia Cooper, Scissors Hair Studio - Byward Market, Ottawa Rachelle Dixon, Roots to Ends Hair Studios and Tranquility Day Spa, Ingersoll, Ont. Chelsea Dogan, Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Carlie Parkin, RedBloom Salon East Village, Calgary Tasha Pinheiro, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Aprille Bouchard, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Lauren Green, LgHairstyles, Alymer, Ont. Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.
SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Jamie Dorge, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Jason Lachance, Urban Crush Salon, Winnipeg Colleen Lamirande, Verde Salon, Winnipeg Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg
SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Butter Beauty Parlour, Calgary Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Mavn Hair, Edmonton, Alta. Salon Scavo, Toronto
AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Kim Garneau, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Lasalle, Que. Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. James Valiant, Suki’s South Granville, Vancouver Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto
JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE ÇaVaBien Hair Studio & Day Spa Ltd., Calgary Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Luc Mon Coiffeur, Montreal The Manor Salon, Toronto
CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Jessica Benner, InStyle Salon and Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Olga Khazova, European Standard by Olga Khazova, Medicine Hat, Alta. Anick Pouliot, Pose d’ongles Anick Pouliot, Levis, Que. MAKEUP ARTIST Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Véronique Girard, Véronique Girard – Artiste Maquilleur, Jonquière, Que. Abie Hagerty, Facesbyabie, Fingal, Ont. Yuri Ishii, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Katie Sullivan, KQS Studio, St. John’s, Nfld.
No #FOMO! Visit salonmagazine.ca/contessa for your last chance to snag tickets to the Contessa 2020 gala on November 10!
Contessa Gallery — FINALIST, 2019 MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR
TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ & VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTO: MARILYN BOUCHARD
“My goal is not necessarily to step out of my comfort zone, but to go one step above what I usually do.”
Véronique Girard For her 2019 finalist collection, this Quebec-based makeup artist was inspired by royalty, choosing deep hues and metallic shades as the spotlight for her collection. “At the beginning, my idea was to showcase the models as if they were queens,” she says. “I wanted to feature women that are noble, strong and feminine. I really love those timeless looks that highlight a lot of dark colours and many contrasts.” Product Knowledge With a range of makeup products and finishes to choose from, Girard had a clear vision for her collection. “I thought
it was important to keep the models’ complexion light, so I worked with very lightweight foundations to achieve the look,” she explains. “I also wanted to enhance [one of the model’s] freckles, so I drew on them with different shades of crayon to make them look as realistic and natural as possible.” Though Girard had a subtle approach for the face and skin, it was all about the drama for the eyes. She incorporated gold leaves and glitter—which she admits she normally isn’t a big fan of—because she “wanted to contrast the shine on a darker base to give the overall look character with a very feminine side.”
Improving her Craft Girard worked closely with her photographer, Marilyn Bouchard, on the models’ poses to get the perfect shot. “We also adjusted the light and the hair to achieve the regal look we were aiming for. It really was our main focus,” says Girard. Like many people working in the beauty industry, she relies on her intuition to guide her through the creative process. “When I start working on makeup, I often don’t always know exactly where I’m headed. That’s when I go back to my creative bubble and then the magic happens!” That said, Girard admits that there are some things she doesn’t leave to chance. “It’s important for me to keep my ‘signature’ so that people recognize my work as soon as they see it.” salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 55
Interiors — LA ROUSSE
Seeing Pink Find out why this Montreal-based salon owner has decided to downsize to focus on her artistry.
If owning a salon instantly infuses a hairstylist’s name and reputation with prestige, it's little wonder that managing the tedious day-to-day operations can become quite challenging. This is especially true when owners are behind the chair most of the time while simultaneously managing staff and the business. “We’re always running around in a large salon, and clients can feel the stress,” says Sophie Tessier, owner of La Rousse salon in Montreal. “So, I decided to listen to my needs and make a change so that I’m 100 per cent dedicated to my clientele and my art.” Total Beauty The new iteration of La Rousse—it means “redhead” in French and is aptly named because of Tessier’s flaming red hair—is now located inside a medical aesthetics clinic in a quiet neighbourhood, far from the hustle and bustle of Saint Laurent boulevard, its previous location. “In this new
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environment, my clients can have access to a range of beauty services under one roof. I’ve divided the salon into two distinct spaces: The technical area has a lot of light, while the styling and cutting area is more subdued. All of this is to infuse a sense of calmness.” Small Is Beautiful! The décor, an artful blend of soft roses and muted shades, features a large section of wallpaper with oversized blooms. Since the ceiling was lower in the hairstyling section, a stretched black canvas was added to create the feeling of infinity. “Even with flower motifs, it feels dark and intimate, since I wanted my male clients to feel comfortable,” she says.
In this new chapter of her professional life, Tessier is aiming for a small team dedicated to providing high-quality hair services in calm surroundings. “I’m focused on my clients more than ever and this very peaceful atmosphere elevates that focus because there aren’t a dozen hairdryers running at once.” Two stylists and an assistant are the only people on staff, and every service is very much hands on. Bookings are done online, which is easier for clients. As for brands, she chose Balmain, because she wanted a luxury line that fits with the building’s medical clinic and their clients. “It had to resonate with the needs they had for something sophisticated and elegant.” As for Tessier? “I am very happy. Now I can continue to create in peace and quiet.”
PHOTOS: SEBASTIEN SAUVAGE
BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
DETAILS Opened in 2019 SPACE 650 square feet DESIGN Sophie Tessier & Suzanne Colello FURNITURE Lanvain TEAM 2 Hairstylists 1 Assistant BRANDS Balmain Revlon Professional (colour) Verb INSTAGRAM @laroussecoiffure
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 57
Business —
Feeling The Burn Understanding why hairstylists burn out before they ever shine bright, and how to help your team avoid falling into this trap.
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
Value Your Time
“Gone are the days where stylists work 12 hours straight,” says Chammoury. “We have a structure where our team will work five days a week with six hour shifts, which condenses your schedule so that you can better help your clients,” she says. Using this scheduling strategy creates a demand for you as a hairstylist, which means you’re able to charge more for your time. Tom employs a similar strategy by sticking with a four-day per week schedule, which helps clear her mind. “Having three days off really helps to mentally and physically unwind, and along with a small vacation every few months,” she says.
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Guide Your Team Another strategy that Chammoury believes has helped her team achieve a healthy balance is pairing up senior and junior hairstylists. “Having a second set of hands helping, for both the senior and junior stylist, is a great experience all around and it means that double the work gets done.” She says that both hairstylists are also increasing their income as a result of being able to book more clients in less time. Even still, “some of our senior people want to work 10-hour days, but then they will get three days off,” she adds.
Show Your Flexibility
As a salon that’s open seven days a week, Chammoury is able to accommodate a variety of schedules for her team. While some senior hairstylists preferring to work daytime shifts, she finds that afternoon and evening shifts are a preference for her younger team members. “By having a 10-hour day with a shorter four day work week, we can reward hairstylists the time off they need,” says Chammoury. With only 16 chairs and 24 staff, Chammoury says her staff share stations with multiple hairstylists, using one station during their scheduled hours. As a result, this enables her team to rotate and take the breaks they need during
One of the best ways to avoid team burnout is by keeping everyone engaged as a team. “With our staff, we do four events a year that are outside of work,” says Chammoury. In the past, team events have included everything from barbeques in the park to escape-room parties to quiet evening dinners at her home. For Tom it means taking time for self-care. “After a long week, getting regular massages really helps,” she says. “Long hours are a strain, so taking this time to destress with long walks outside helps me reset.” Along with regular staff meetings, Chammoury also has personal oneon-one check ins. “We get them to talk about something besides the numbers. You have to be with them on a mental and a business level.”
their work hours, without feeling the pressure of constantly needing to be behind the chair. “A lack of time is a huge thing in our business, and if we can reward hairstylists and give them back their time to do the things they love, they’ll work better when they are in the salon.”
PHOTO: GETTY STOCK
As the co-owner of Edges Salon and Spa in Calgary, Lina Chammoury understands the importance of balance, especially when it comes to helping her team of 24 hairstylists achieve it. “When they feel heard, your team will feel worth so much more,” she says. “If you are just going to be a corporate guru, then you’ll never get there.” We spoke with Chammoury along with Loretta Tom, director at Salon Haze in Vancouver, for their practical tips on keeping your salon team healthy and well all year round.
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Events —
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The event featured presentations from Goldwell’s international artists, including Austria’s very own Mario Krankl, who presented a mind-blowing presentation that celebrated Vienna’s legendary empress, Sisi.
Highlights from Global Zoom 2019! More than 2,700 hairstylists from around the world travelled to Vienna, Austria for Global Zoom 2019. This annual two-day event featured the exciting live competition and awards gala, in which global finalists competed in the New Talent, Creative Colorist and Partner Colorist categories. When & Where: September 29-30, Vienna, Austria |
PHOTOS: GOLDWELL
And a special shout-out to the Canadian finalists—Ashley Lindsay, Shelby Tait and Marilyn Vendittelli— who showed their impressive colour skills and creativity on the grand stage.
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Congratulations to the global winners! J Lim from Singapore (New Talent), Irakli Sardalishvili from Russia (Creative Colorist), and Yuujin Ho from Singapore (Partner Colorist). |
Events —
| The grand event came to a close at the royal masqueradethemed farewell party, hosted at the opulent Hofburg Palace.
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Rodica Hristu and Goldwell’s global team (featuring Lindie Blackwell from Barrie, Ont.!) took the stage for the big reveal of the brand’s 2020 couture collection, Intrepid, which features a range of minimalistic, modern, genderneutral styles.
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 61
Events —
Creative Education at Unite’s Global Session 2019
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Celebrating 16 years, Unite’s annual education event brought together more than 700 for a weekend of inspiration, education and community building. Featuring a lineup of international hairstylists from Australia, Canada, Spain, the United States and the U.K., Unite’s Global Session 2019 combined high-energy showmanship with intricate techniques skills.
Along with onstage education, Unite hosted a panel of Tastemakers with four social media superstars including Graham Nation (@grahamnation), Dominick Serna (@domdomhair), Marissa Marino (@marissa. marino) and Michelle Zeller Porumb (@mane_ivy).
When & Where: September 22-23, San Diego, Calif.
Karine Jackson gave editorial styling a dark, mysterious vibe with her steampunk-inspired looks. PHOTOS: UNITE
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colour protect conditioner The weekend wrapped with a creative set that challenged your imagination, led by Unite’s creative director Gary Baker, Canadian educator Renee Africa and Shaun McGrath, who each brought their unique creative visions to life.
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 63
Events —
| Along with creating one of her signature ’70s-inspired cuts, Jayne Matthews also walked through the process of taking good before-and-after photos with your clients.
The Launch of “The Elevated Stylist”
When & Where: September 26-28, Muskoka, Ont.
Scoop —
Guess Who’s Back!
Yves Henrichon has returned to Keune Haircosmetics as the business development manager for Canada. His role is to help expand the distribution of the brand’s colour, care and styling products across Quebec and the Maritimes. Henrichon will also work with Modern Beauty Supplies to help its salon customers grow and succeed in their partnership with Keune.
New Role
John Costanza has named the CEO of Beauty Quest Group, a division of the private equity firm Transom Capital Group, which recently acquired Conair Corporation’s professional liquids division including Aquage, RUSK and One ’n Only earlier this year. Costanza was formerly the vice-president and general manager of Conair’s global salon professional division. 64 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019
Brian Hickman’s cutting class, introduced the concept of mindful cutting, along with what he has learned through every photoshoot and delved into how hairstylists can learn the most from their photography. |
PHOTOS: ELEVATED STYLIST, KEUNE, BEAUTY QUEST GROUP
Jody Kezar and Sonia Yarkhani, co-owners of Evolve Hair Studio, have created a new education experience for hairstylists. This year’s inaugural event was held in Muskoka, Ont. and brought together hairstylists from across Canada and the United States. Featuring hair education experts including XO Farhana, Brian Hickman, Jayne Matthews and Jamie Sea, attendees rotated between sessions throughout the day. A combined yoga and guided meditation session set the pace for each day which also wrapped up with an evening cocktail social that included a social media speakers panel and empowering mindfulness practice.
|
Events —
Jamie Sea also showcased her creative colour application techniques, along with tips for ensuring colourists are aware of their wellbeing by checking in on their posture and physical wellbeing with each appointment.
| Canadian balayage expert XO Farhana shared her tips for establishing intention from the consultation through each appointment with her clients.
Join Canada s pany! Largest hair Com Are you creative, confident and experienced? Do you want to work with a team that encourages self expression? We want stylists like you. • Full employer benefits • Employer RRSP contributions • Referral bonuses
• Career growth opportunities • Stylist education on site • Biggest hair event in Canada
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www.chatters.ca/pages/careers
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2019 65
On her trip to Canada this summer, we sat down with Nathalie Roos, global president of L’Oréal Professional Products Division, to discuss the challenges facing salons today, and her style of team management.
What will attract the best talent to a salon? It’s the experience. When you go into a salon, it must be worth the journey. I have a wedding this week in Montreal, so I made an appointment at a salon for myself and some family and friends. When I spoke to the receptionist on the phone you could hear she was smiling. We even had a laugh while she booked the appointments and we made a connection. With all the salons you’ve visited around the world, where have you had the best experience? The best salon I have been to recently was in Germany. It was owned by two sisters with four salons, and they specialize in blonding. I think the
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future of salons is really this—to focus on specializing in something. Here in Toronto, I went to Untitled [by Flaunt Boutique]. This salon has a really cool atmosphere with a bar and a games area, and you really have a good time there. It’s a unique experience. Why does education remain such a key pillar? Education is at the heart of the experience, and it’s not only technical, it’s digital, business management and communication. We are creating a bachelor’s degree in hairdressing and management. We’re starting with one school in France, but we want to create this program at a national and international level. There are so many people who would love to be hairdressers and now they can. It will include peer coaching and we will integrate the salon owners with the program; three months of the year students will be in school, and the rest they’ll be in the salon. It’s a three-year degree program. Tell us about your team building approach. I’ve created a concept called “great place to win.” By that I mean there is a direct link with people feeling emotionally connected with a company. When they feel respected and developed and have the opportunity to do the best work they
Featured left to right: Quoc Chay, president of L’Oréal Canada Professional Products Division, Anna Lee Boschetto, editor-in-chief of Salon, Nathalie Roos, global president of L’Oréal Professional Products Division, Laura Dunphy, publisher of Salon, and David Greenberg, group president of L’Oréal Professional Products Division, North America
can each day, this is when you get your best results. The most clever and most experienced leader is only one person, but when you have 12,000 people in an occupation and you have those people working towards the same objective, it can be very powerful. What do you say to salon owners who are fearful that e-commerce is the death of salon business? We want to lead the digital transformation of the industry with an entrepreneurial and customercentric approach. Instead of looking at e-commerce as the enemy, we need to look it as an opportunity. We have aligned our prices across the globe, and choose partners to work with on the professional use of their website and a systematic drive to their website. We have an opportunity to take people to salons. We are selling in-salon services as a promotion online so if you buy online you can also try it in the salon. This is one way for our consumers to buy product where they want, but also to bring them into our salons.
TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO; PHOTO: SALON STAFF
What continues to be your biggest challenge in these times? My biggest challenge is to make this profession attractive and to attract talented stylists. Our mission is to support the development of salon owners and create a draw to the profession. I want to encompass all forms of hairdressing and the biggest priority in doing that is making salons attractive to professionals.
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Salon Stories —
In Conservation With Nathalie Roos
W E N
COLLECTION BY LARISA LOVE
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©2019 Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3 HAIR & COLOR Larisa Love PHOTO Hama Sanders