Salon Magazine, November/December 2020 by Salon Communications Inc.

C ON T E S SA 32 F I NA L IST S !

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GE N E R AT IONA L C U T A N D C OL OU R GU I DE

F I N I S H I NG HAIR TIPS A N D T R ICK S

The Art of Finishing N OV E M B E R+D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

salonmagazine.ca

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ZONE 1 COVER THE ROOTS

ZONE 2 REFRESH & GLOSS

THE PERFECT PAIR TO COVER & GLOSS IN ONE SIMPLE PROCESS COLOR GELS LACQUERS + SHADES EQ GLOSS At Redken we color in zones to protect hair integrity. This means applying alkaline liquid color on virgin hair when lift or coverage is needed and refreshing previously colored hair only with acidic liquid color, which helps seal hair cuticles while depositing color. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why we created 1:1 shade matches for you with alkaline permanent Color Gels Lacquers & acidic liquid demi Shades EQ Gloss. No formulation is required. You can cover & refresh with confidence in one simple process. CHOOSE YOUR PERFECT PAIR TODAY AND COLOR IN ZONES LIKE A PRO.

LIVE THE BLONDE LIFE ®

A lightening and brightening system just for blondes… and those who want to be lifted to new heights without sacrificing hair’s shine or condition.

Up to 9+ levels of fast-acting lift

JOICO.CA 2020 Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3 ARTIST Olivia Smalley, Joico Brand Storyteller PHOTO Hama Sanders

Keep blondes bright for up to 8 weeks*

*When using Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner/ Masque, which preserve over 80% of hair color after 18 washes

Nails they’ll envy. Dimension that’s unmatched. Bring on the sparkle with OPI’s new High Definition Glitters. AVAILABLE NOVEMBER 1 ST, 2020

Shop these glitter shades offered EXCLUSIVELY in GEL COLOR.

opi.com • #OPHIDEFGLITTERS • #COLOR IS THE ANSWER

FEATURING HALO THERE!

November+December 2020

28 F E AT U R E

What Clients Want

Need help with creating the ultimate look for your client? Find out all the cut, style and colour trends for each generation to help them find the perfect fit.

33 F E AT U R E

Your Ultimate Guide to Finishing Hair

M I C H E L L E PA RG E E , FR EELA NCE , S E C H E LT, B . C .

Is finishing not your forte? Get expert tips to take your finishing skills to the next level.

39 F E AT U R E

Collections

Michelle Pargee; Emiliano Vitale and Lisa Muscat-Vitale, Terri Kay, Paula Alonso Pérez, Robert Bushy, Ken Hung, Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Thomas Hills and Lauren Killick

“Years ago, dressing hair was the most important skill someone would need to be recognized as a great hairdresser.” — SHARON BLAIN, AWARD-WINNING AUSTRALIAN HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATOR ON THE COVER: HAIR: TERRI KAY, MARK LEESON SALONS, U.K. WARDROBE STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 9

Editor’s Letter

C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Aprille Bouchard

Discover how this Contessa 2020 Session Hairstylist finalist produces stunning yet simple work with minimal touchups.

Publisher’s Note

L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Find us online for more hair how-tos, news, events, and of course the latest Contessa updates!

B US IN ES S

Brand Awareness

RO B E R T B U S H Y, S E N S E —A RO B E R T BUSH Y SA LON, U. S .

Market your brand and maximize your business this holiday season with tips and strategies from two successful salon owners.

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

As the cold winter months are approaching, you may need to switch up your routine to keep your hair, skin and nails in check. Find out the latest holiday launches, along with styling, colour and grooming tips.

62 PRO FILE

Making a Statement

Editorial hairstylist Naeemah LaFond is a pioneer for diversity in the beauty industry. Learn how she continues to break barriers.

64 IN TERIO RS

All-Inclusive Experience Find out how Edmontonbased salon, Frenchie’s Hair, was ahead of the COVID curve and created a private environment for their clients.

PAU L A A L O N S O P É R E Z , S A L Ó N B L U E BY R AQ U E L S A I Z , S PA I N

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Discover SEB MAN, a complete range of hair care, styling and grooming products, for men who refuse to be categorized.

THE GROOMING LINE FOR THE UN\ DEFINABLE MAN #UNDEFINABLE

Editor’s Letter —

— @MR.OUTLINER

Par for the Course As we all continue to navigate the uncharted waters of the COVID-19 pandemic, it comes as no surprise that many of us are unsure about the months ahead. With the holiday season just around the corner, it’s typically a time that salons are jam-packed with clients booking their appointments ahead of upcoming holiday parties and special occasions. With this year’s limited gatherings and increased virtual events, what the next couple of months will look like is to be determined. As many businesses rely on the busy holiday season for revenue, it’s important to head into the next few weeks with a game-plan in place. On page 60, we’re featuring expert tips from professionals who know a thing or two about running a successful business. While we recommend that you invest in your website or social media presence—regardless of what comes next with COVID-19—here’s another suggestion: Make time for education. On page 28, we’re breaking down the generational gaps to help you understand what clients in different age groups are really looking for when it comes to colour and style… and our findings may surprise you! In these unprecedented times, one thing is certain: We’re in this together. Make sure to check out the final installment of our #SalonStrong series on page 66 for inspiring stories and words of encouragement from hairstylists across Canada who’ve battled adversity and demonstrated exemplary strength. Cheers to all of our hair heroes!

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

“The Cordless Detailer Li gives me the crispiest lines ever”

GO BEYOND GREAT HAIR COLOR Hair color that turns heads. Extraordinary brilliance and shine that can only be achieved through Elumenation by Goldwell. From the intense vibrancy of Elumen to the multi-layer, customizable effects of @Pure Pigments, to the premixed, easy to use Topchic @Elumenated Shades, our mastery of direct dye technology gives you infinite ways to create color that goes beyond your expectations.

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 29, ISSUE 7 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ART DIRECTOR (ACTING) Barbara Burrows ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ON LEAVE) Stephanie Gallant ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Emily Arkell emily@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Karoun Chahinian

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

Getting to the Finish Line

Laura Dunphy Publisher

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OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

It should be no surprise that November is a big month for our team. It’s the time of year that the entire team works toward, as we prepare for our annual Contessa Awards gala where 24 trophies are handed out for outstanding achievements in hair, nails, makeup, salon interiors and community service. The anticipation of the event is palpable. I personally love looking at the finalists’ collections online and studying the workmanship and creativity within each image. While I can only imagine the daunting task our judges have, something that catches my eye year after year are the ones that hone in on finishing. To put it simply, finishing is the understated pillar of hairdressing. Often, it’s the cute little haircut that gets all the attention but anyone in the know knows finishing gets the big bucks. It’s the look of luxury. After all, how would all that long hair we’re seeing these days look so fabulous without a professional blowout? Whether it’s a beautifully executed updo, sexy Hollywood waves, or a purposely “undone” look, finishing can transform an average style to the next level all while helping to make hair look healthier. What’s interesting about this effect is that in many hairdressing schools, it’s often overlooked. My advice: Learn how to finish hair not only to take your styling skills to the next level, but because it may take you places. If you have ever aspired to work on an editorial shoot or work backstage at a fashion show, knowing how to finish is a must, as it can show such technique and mastery. Just be careful not to overdo it, as too much finishing can make hair look dated. Speaking of dates, I invite you to mark November 8th on your calendar and join our first-ever virtual Contessa Awards, where the winners will be announced live. It promises to be an amazing, high-energy show with stunning collections, showstopping presentations, and tons of emotions. Don’t miss out!

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

salonmagazine.ca Gala Time! We’re just days away from the 32nd annual Contessa Awards! Visit SalonMagazine.ca for all the info on how to attend our virtual gala this year.

Refreshing Styles Find the inspiration you’re looking for in the SalonMagazine.ca collection archive, where you’ll find looks that will spark your creativity through winter (and beyond).

In search of new opportunities or seeking new talent? Check out our online job board to view or post free listings.

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Seize the Day!

In the Spotlight

We chatted with Ana Sorys, a Toronto-based Emmy-nominated hairstylist who transformed Catharine O’Hara into Moira Rose for the award-winning TV series, Schitt’s Creek. 16 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

PHOTOS: HAIR: JAK BAKER, BAD APPLE HAIR, U.K., MAKEUP: KATE GATELY, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES, ANA SORYS

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PHOTO: HAIR: SHOGO IDEGUCHI, FABRIC SALON, JAPAN, MAKEUP: LAN GREALIS, WARDROBE STYLING: JAMIE RUSSELL, PHOTO: JOHN RAWSON COURTESY OF FPA

IT’S A WINTER WONDERLAND OF NEW PRODUCT LAUNCHES! SEE THE LATEST IN CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING. With an eclectic twist on ’50s-inspired style that’s mixed with artificial intelligence, the Retrotic collection by Japanese hairstylist Shogo Ideguchi is a work of art. Featuring sharp cuts, clean lines and bold fringes, the looks are combined with vintage patterns and styling. The result? Looks that are forward-thinking with a hint of nostalgia to remind us that what’s old can truly be new again. To view more photos from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 17

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Give clients a gift their hair (and the planet) will love with Paul Mitchell’s Clean Beauty. With a rising demand for natural ingredients that don’t compromise on performance, Paul Mitchell’s newest line offers clean options for every guest’s needs. With four solution-based categories—Everyday, Hydrate, Smooth and Repair—each product is made with sustainably sourced organic botanicals, clean formulas with vitamins and antioxidants, and bio-based packaging, making the range a perfect fit for clients seeking “clean” beauty alternatives. The line is cruelty-free, gluten-free, vegan and certified organic, and is formulated without any parabens or sulfates.

Help your clients experience Seb Man’s unique line of hair care, styling and grooming products—just in time for Movember!

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Big Deal Level up your styling routine with Oligo Professionnel’s Amplifying Mousse. Finishing hair is important throughout the year, but especially during the holiday season! Oligo’s new Calura Amplifying Mousse offers ultra-light volume for a natural finish with flexible hold. As an added bonus, it contains heat and colour protection, along with humidity- and frizz-control, making it the perfect option for all of your heat-styled looks.

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It’s possible that some of your male clients have been growing out their facial hair since the beginning of the COVID-19 lockdown, and now they can say it’s for a great cause: Movember! Seb Man’s three exclusive kits—The One, The Charmer and The Distinguished— each feature at least four luxurious products to improve your client’s overall grooming game. The cherry on top? Seb Man has partnered with Chatters to donate 10 per cent of proceeds from the sale of each kit to support men’s health research!

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, NIOXIN, GREAT LENGTHS CANADA, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CANADA, MATRIX CANADA, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL

’Stache in Style

FOR CLIENTS LOOKING TO SUSTAIN THEIR STYLES FOR DAYS, OLIGO’S BLACKLIGHT DRY SHAMPOO ORNAMENT IS THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING. WHILE CREATED WITH BLONDES IN MIND, IT’S SUITABLE FOR ALL HAIR COLOURS AND TYPES, AND INSTANTLY ABSORBS OIL WHILE ENHANCING VOLUME FOR LONGER-LASTING HOLIDAY HAIR.

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Hairlines — NEWS

Squeaky Clean

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Change It Up Hairlines — NEWS

Elevate your holiday looks with new extension shades from Great Lengths Canada. Introducing three new colours to their collection—Peach Blonde, Brown Rose and Strawberry Blonde—the shades are available in five stands per bundle in 16” precise length, along with 12” precise length and GL Tapes 16” precise length by special order. Peach Blonde is a warmer take on rose-gold hair and Brown Rose is a subtle balayage that offers a nice alternative to classic brunette locks, while Strawberry Blonde is a warm reddish-blonde that’s perfect for any (virtual) fete this season.

GETTING TO THE ROOT OF IT

Transform thinning hair with Nioxin’s 3D Intensive Hair Booster. Whether your clients have thinning hair due to COVID-19-related stress, winter dryness or genetics, help them enhance their locks with Nioxin’s 3D Intensive Hair Booster, a leave-in spot treatment designed for progressed-thinning hair. Combatting hair loss for all hair types, it conditions and forms a protective barrier against cuticle damage while also improving scalp health. Not only will this product help get your clients holiday-party-ready, but it will help boost their confidence, which is the ultimate gift!

Soft and Subtle Enhance your client’s natural features with IGORA Muted Desert from Schwarzkopf Professional. Designed to match your neutral and cool-toned clients, these four new shades—9-24, 7-24, 9-42, 7-42—are inspired by the calm of a sandy desert and feature cool beige and soft grey tones to counteract unwanted yellow for the truest cool and neutral results. Ideal for complementing your cool-toned client’s eye colour and skin tone, Muted Desert creates blonde to brown results with ashy tones for a powdery soft finish. Plus, it’s available in both Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA Royal and IGORA Vibrance colour portfolios. FOR TIPS AND TRICKS, INCLUDING THE BRAND’S MUTED LIGHT AND MUTED SHADOWS HOW-TOS, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

➣ G O M U LT I D I M E N S I O N A L

Transform your brunettes with Matrix’s SoColor Mocha shades. For clients seeking luscious brown locks this season, take their colour to a new level with four new shades—6AM, 6MM, 8MM, 10MM. With preblended, multi-tonal reflects of brown, red, violet and gold in one tube, each hue offers brunette clients multidimensional results that are never dull or oversaturated. With its pre-calibrated blend of dyes and neutral base for true-to-tone colour, it eliminates guesswork and excess mixing.

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Hairlines — HOLIDAY CHEER

Dreaming of…

L OV E I S I N T H E H A I R

Help your clients get party-ready with Dyson’s limited-edition holiday sets. From their game-changing Supersonic dryer to Airwrap, Dyson has continued to push the envelope when it comes to what’s possible with styling tools. So, it comes as no surprise that the brand has launched two limited-edition sets that are sure to be at the top of your (and your clients’) wish list. With a copper and silver colourway, matching copper presentation case and travel bag, these tools not only look beautiful—they produce high-quality results without the use of extreme heat.

Turn hair fantasies into reality with ghd’s limited-edition Wish Upon A Star.

With four equally luxurious sets— Restructuring Bond Repair, Volume, Replenishing Moisture and Anti-Frizz— there’s a set to tackle any holiday hair dilemma. Whether your client is looking to control frizz or add moisture to their locks before their next virtual event, there’s no shortage of hair problems that these sets can’t solve. Plus, the luminous packaging is so beautiful that they may not want to open. But once they do, they’re sure to thank you for their results! 20 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

Treat Hair Better Give the gift of good hair with Kérastase’s holiday sets.

D E CA D E N T CA R E

Learn why Alterna’s Caviar holiday sets are the luxe gift everyone will want this season.

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There’s no denying the infamous reputation winter has for drying hair out, but (thankfully!) these gift sets from Kérastase not only target specific hair concerns, such as blonde protection, breakage repair and moisture recovery, they feature products made from nourishing and restorative ingredients to repair your clients’ hair—regardless of the season.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: GHD, DYSON CANADA, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CANADA, SALON ARCHIVE, KÉRASTASE CANADA, ALTERNA

Whether your clients are looking for covetable curls, wonderous waves or sumptuously straight hair, the line is inspired by constellations and features iridescent whites and deep, luxurious midnight blues. And with gift sets for the brand’s Deluxe, Platnum+ Styler, Helios professional hairdryer and Gold Styler, it will be hard to choose just one! Plus, each features at least one styling tool in sparkling white with satin gold accents, and a luxury dust bag or vanity case.

Labour of Love

Canadian Premiere

Wella Professionals global ambassador Darren Ambrose of D&J Ambrose is returning to the Contessas for a second consecutive year with a brand-new show! The British award-winning hairstylist will be taking the virtual stage with his high-fashion, rock ‘n’ roll style that’s sure to have plenty of hair inspo that you won’t want to miss!

Hairlines — CONTESSA CENTRAL

Guess Who’s Back?!

Schwarzkopf Professional will be taking the Contessa virtual stage to debut the VivID collection, the brand’s autumn/winter 2020 Essential Looks collection. Featuring three key seasonal trends: Once Upon A Time, Everyday Decadence and Dark Romance, the collection features runway and salon looks created by the Essential Looks team, including North American colour director, Essential Looks ambassador and Contessa 2021 finalist, Rossa Jurenas!

HAVE A QUESTION FOR DARREN AMBROSE OR MJ DEZIEL? DM US ON INSTAGRAM AND STAY TUNED FOR OUR Q&AS WITH THE ARTISTS!

Montreal-based hairstylist and Redken ambassador MJ Deziel will be debuting a brand-new video segment, Ungendered. Spotlighting the beauty of androgynous styles, the video showcases Deziel’s masterful cutting skills with a range of European street-style-inspired looks.

Contessa Countdown! With days away from the big show, the countdown is officially on! If you’re wondering what the Contessas will look like this year, here’s everything you need to know: 1 Our cocktail party begins at 7:15 p.m. EST on Zoom, and will feature a live DJ, virtual red carpet, special guests and more! Spaces are limited so pre-registration is a MUST. Visit SalonMagazine.ca/ Contessa for more information. And don’t worry finalists, we’ve already taken care of registration for you, so make sure to check your inbox for your link! 2 The awards gala begins at 8:30 p.m. EST and will be broadcasted via Vimeo. From the 24 award categories to two show-stopping presentations to a few surprises, you won’t want to miss the virtual party of the year! 3 While there is no after-party this year, keep the celebrations going with your watch party at home or in your salon, and make sure to tag @SalonMagazine and use the #Contessa2021 hashtag in your posts for a chance to be featured in our January/February Contessa issue!

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 21

A L L T H AT GLITTERS…

Hairlines — NAILS

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

CND Fall in love with the luxurious Get That Gold from the Cocktail Couture collection.

Morgan Taylor Get fancy with California Gold, a gold glitter from the Shake Up The Magic collection.

Even with nowhere to go, these celebs’ holiday-inspired nails did not disappoint. Check out a few of our favourites! 1 Celebrity nail artist Chaun Legend gave former Pretty Little Liars actress Shay Mitchell some pretty little red nails. 2 Just like the star herself, Jennifer Lopez’s bedazzled nails need no introduction. 3 Celebrity nail artist Kim Truong rocked it with singer Ella Mai’s shiny light grey nails with white stripes.

4 Truong was back at it with Jennifer Aniston’s fresh, pale pink mani. 5 Singer and actress Selena Gomez looked red hot with her dressed up ruby nails. 6 Actress Kerry Washington shines with these sleek nails finished with beautiful gold accents.

SPOTLIGHT

Coat of Armour Help your clients’ nails get longer wear and added strength with OPI’s GelColor Stay Strong Base Coat. Offering 21+ days of wear with high-gloss shine and durability, this base coat is infused with a calcium and vitamin complex to enhance the strength and flexibility of natural nails. While a base coat may be “out of sight and out of mind” for your client, it’s the foundation of your manicure or pedicure service. With the holiday season approaching, your clients will want longlasting, durable and shiny colour. And with this product, you can tell them you’ve got them covered.

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OPI Slay the night with This Gold Sleighs Me, a shimmery shade from the Shine Bright collection.

ORLY Untouchable Decadence is the Metropolis collection’s show-stopping glittery gold shade.

Artistic Nail Design Shine on with Hands Off My Teddy from the Decked Out Dandy collection.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:INSTAGRAM, CND, MORGAN TAYLOR AND GELISH, OPI, ORLY, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

Merry Manis

Get equipped with the latest tools sure to raise your (and your clients’) styling game this holiday season.

GET FLEXIBLE SPEED AND PRECISION WITH ANDIS’ MASTER CORDLESS LITHIUM-ION CLIPPER, A POWERFUL YET LIGHTWEIGHT TOOL OFFERING MORE THAN 90 MINUTES OF RUN TIME.

Single-lever, adjustable precision blade from size 000-1 for detailed tapering or fading ready, but it will help restore their confidence– which is the ultimate gift!

Rotative, extra-long cord for flexible styling

New and improved lightweight, ergonomic design

Built-in comb to detangle hair while styling

FREEZE YOUR FRIZZ WITH BABYLISSPRO’S CRYOCARE THE COLDBRUSH, WHICH UTILIZES THE ACTIVE HYDRATION OF CRYOTHERAPY TO TAME DAMAGED HAIR AND CAN BE USED ON WET OR DRY HAIR.

Nano titanium cold plate with Thermoelectric Cooler reaches down to zero degrees Celsius

Integrated water tank can style up to 192m of hair (before refill)

Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

Winter Warriors

WITH FASTER AND SMOOTHER RESULTS THAN A TRADITIONAL FLAT IRON, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL’S STEAMPOD 3.0 IS THE PERFECT WAY TO DELIVER A SLEEK LOOK WITHOUT EXCESSIVE HEAT DAMAGE.

BRUSH UP THIS SEASON WITH OLIVIA GARDEN’S HOLIDAY ICE, AVAILABLE IN FOUR FESTIVE COLOURS: PARADISE GREEN, LAVENDER, BLUE TOPAZ AND PINK LADY.

Curved, scalphugging design massages the scalp

Removable cushion for easy cleaning

90 metal bristles help detangle hair and promote shine

High-speed rotary motor with Constant Speed Technology for no dragging/stalling

High-output ion generate reduces frizz and flyaways

Compact design ideal for travel or on-the-go use Cord/cordless design with durable aluminum housing

Nine-foot, 360° swivel, fabricwrapped cord for ease of use

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 23

“ G OI NG GR E Y ” D OE S N ’ T H AV E T O B E A BA D T H I NG ! F I N D OU T HOW T O H E L P YOU R C L I E N T S E M B R AC E S I LV E R I N STYLE .

Silver Belles Getting grey may be an inevitable part of getting older, however, some clients are convinced that the process—whether it involved increased grey or forced regrowth—was fast-tracked by the COVID-19 pandemic. And we’re not just talking about the stress of it all! But with the salon shutdown, it forced many to grow out their grey hair. The “silver” lining? Some women are enjoying their new look so much that they are taking the next step to go grey—on purpose! And with the holiday season just around the corner, they’ll need your help to embrace their shiny, sparkling, newly silver strands. “Going grey should never mean throwing in the towel,” says Misael Aponte, international colour director for Oligo Professionnel. “Stylists should never feel like they’re losing [service revenue] when their clients go grey, and clients shouldn’t feel like they are giving up when going grey. Together, they should aim for the process to be as glorious as it should be. There are many envied grey-haired ladies out there, and your client can be one of them!” Au Naturel During the salon shutdown, it was easier for some clients to fully embrace the idea of going grey. While many male clients were fine with this change, Aponte says fewer of his female clients happily made the switch. When returning to work in his salon, he noticed some clients had an “oh boy” moment at the end of their service, which he says was disappointing to see from his long-time

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clientele—so much so that he almost stopped in the middle of a service when he realized one of his loyal clients was feeling discouraged. “She kept saying that she didn’t have a choice because she is part of a demographic where there is still shame in having roots and embracing a lived-in look. She felt like taking the plunge to go fully grey was better than grown-out roots,” says Aponte. PRO TIP APONTE SUGGESTS HAVING A CONVERSATION WITH YOUR CLIENTS TO FIND OUT IF THEY JUST WANT TO GO GREY AND GET IT OVER WITH, OR IF THEY WANT TO GO GREY AND CELEBRATE THEIR NATURAL COLOUR THAT’S BEEN ENHANCED AND DEFINED—PLAYING WITH THE RATIOS OF SALT AND PEPPER THAT YOU CAN INTRODUCE DURING THEIR COLOUR SERVICE.

Getting the Look Many clients don’t realize that when they see a woman with luminous white or silver hair, it may not be genetics at play but the work of an ubertalented colourist! “If my clients point out [photos of women] who’ve gone grey and talk about how nicely the hair came in, I explain where it’s been enhanced. Having the insight that I do, I ask them, ‘What is it you love about this?’ Because I can do that for them,” says Aponte. “Not everyone gets a natural shiny or glossy white; some people get a wirey white and a chemical service of some kind is needed to increase the suppleness of the white.” Jenny Bell, a hairstylist and hair colour specialist at Headlines Salon & Spa in Stouffville, Ont., says there can be a lot of maintenance involved when

JOICO COLOR BALANCE PURPLE SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER THIS DUO CONTAINS A MULTISPECTRUM DEFENSE COMPLEX WITH TONE-CORRECTING PIGMENTS TO REMOVE BRASS AND YELLOW TONES.

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTOS: GETTY, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, JOICO CANADA

Hairlines — COLOUR

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A CUT ABOVE Aponte says that greyhaired clients looking to transition to something brighter and shinier for the holiday season should consider rocking looks such as high layering. “Grey and silver hair looks best with lots of movement. Round or concave layering, which increases movement, are the best layered shapes,” he says. “Also, gone are the days for white- and grey-haired salon guests to stick with short hair. Sassy shoulder length and collarbone lengths are welcomed.”

transitioning to grey. “Once it is their natural colour, adding accent pieces or lowlights will give some customers the look they want while others need clarifying treatments and toners to keep their white or silver hair nice and bright.” PRO TIP BELL SAYS THAT NATURAL GREY HAIR SHOULD BE CLARIFIED OR DETOXED EVERY WEEK OR TWO, AND TONED WITH A TINTED SHAMPOO OR CONDITIONER TO KEEP IT FROM YELLOWING OR BECOMING DULL.

Aponte says he reminds his clients that they aren’t opting for no maintenance when going grey, but rather low maintenance—or at least “the lowest maintenance available.” “We have to see how their white comes in— whether it’s in clumps, clusters, streaks or if it’s evenly distributed throughout. No matter the result, we can enhance it,” he says, adding that it’s up to the stylist to work with the client to create a grey or white tone that’s most suitable for them. “We must match the skin temperature of our client. If they have a cool skin tone, we’ll opt for a cool grey. There are also soft, warmish greys available as well, which let the undertone of the warmth peek through the grey.” Sparkling Silver The holiday season is the perfect time to take your grey to the next level with metallic silver tones. “If someone with [lightened] hair wants to do a silvery shiny moment, we could mix a bit of cool gold [Calura Gloss 36 / GV series cool gold]

“SILVER IS A METALLIC AND IT NEEDS TO REFLECT. YOU HAVE TO HAVE SOME WARMTH IN THERE SO YOU DON’T MISS OUT ON THAT CHROMATIC REFLECTION.” — MISAEL APONTE, INTERNATIONAL COLOUR DIRECTOR, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL

and gold violet at least five grams to every 30 grams of an ash to ensure that their greys don’t flatten out,” says Aponte. “Sometimes you can do a silver on someone and it can end up kind of flat and matte or chalky, and your guest will say it’s dark. Silver is a metallic and it needs to reflect. You have to have some warmth in there so you don’t miss out on that chromatic reflection. A little bit of [cool gold] ensures you end up with some sparkle, which will be luminous for the holiday.” “To me, lighter equals brighter, so I would recommend some platinum and/or silver highlights,” adds Bell. “A few strategically placed highlights and/or lowlights can go a long way if you need dimension or shine.” Age Appropriate It’s a common misconception that rocking grey is dependent on being a certain age, but it’s actually three factors that matter most: skin temperature, face shape and the amount of time and money required to maintain hair. “What is currently present in the hair as well as what a client’s natural grey pattern is will dictate what process would be best,” says Bell. “For example, many people have their lightest grey or white tone around their front hairline, so going lighter in that area is usually part of the process. If my client mentions that they are thinking of trying to grow out their natural grey, I will sometimes suggest going lighter with their overall look first or transitioning to highlights and lowlights to allow the greys to slowly start to appear. The point is, the process is different for every head of hair based on many things—none of them being age.” “It’s mostly about specific face shapes, skin tones and making sure the temperature is on par,” adds Aponte. “There are also many intensities of grey you can do that may work better for a particular client. There are quite literally 50 shades of grey.”

FOR CLIENTS WITH CURLY HAIR, APONTE RECOMMENDS USING HIGH-LIFT COLOUR ON THE ENDS AND COLOUR THAT LIFTS WITH COLOUR EVERYWHERE ELSE, SUCH AS OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL’S BLACKLIGHT POWERSHADES.

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 25

Hairlines — MEN

➣ HELP YOUR CLIENTS GET HOLIDAY-READY WITH THESE EXPERT SKINPERFECTING TIPS.

Beneath the Surface drying an area of skin can cause pimples to surface, due to the buildup of dirt and oil, so using a good moisturizer and cleanser can do wonders.

Creating Good Habits The good news is that it’s never too late to start healthy habits! Most men may not need to see a specialist for facials or skincare-related needs, but it’s not a bad idea as their trusted hairstylist or barber to get them talking about their skin. “I think that men were once not as sensible as they are now with their skin,” says Lily Braze, owner of Chez Le Barbier in Montreal. “Men were [less aware] but now with all the trends with skin products and haircuts, they’re more focused on looking great and we should help them.” “I think it’s important for men to have a good skincare routine because male skin is a bit thicker and rougher than women’s skin,” says Rob Rutledge, owner of Al’s Barber Shop in Brampton, Ont. “For concerns related to aging and keeping your skin healthy, it’s important to exfoliate the skin to remove dirt and oil buildup and I think men are starting to realize that.” Thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic, mask-ne has been a big eye-opener for many, including men. Rutledge says that it and other forms of skin irritation are actually rooted in dryness. Over26 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

EXPERT TIP: FOR EVERYDAY SKIN PROTECTION, RUTLEDGE SUGGESTS USING A MOISTURIZING PRODUCT WITH SPF, SUCH AS AMERICAN CREW’S ALL-IN-ONE FACE BALM SPF 15.

Men’s Must-Haves According to Rutledge, some men may think they can just use a bar of soap on their face and call it a day, but for most men, that’s far from the truth. “It won’t give you what the skin needs,” he says. “The products have to be specifically for your skin and have to be for the issue or area that needs addressing.” He suggests using an exfoliating cream, which helps loosen the skin to allow you to clean the pores. For bearded clients, Braze says a beard oil can help moisturize hair while protecting the skin underneath. “As the temperature changes, your skin gets dry and you can develop dandruff,” she says. Skin vs. Hair: Why Should They Care? Rutledge says that although men can typically be found investing in hair products before skincare items, he’s starting to see a change. “For the longest time it was the wife or girlfriend that would pick up a product for men to try, or men would just use whatever was in the shower or smelled good. But now, for the most part, men are buying for themselves, which is great. It’s a huge opening of the male market that wasn’t really there before,” he says. “By giving the proper knowledge to your clientele, they become very interested and it becomes a lot easier for them to talk about. They have blackheads and oily glands and they don’t know how to address those issues, so they need your help.”

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: AMERICAN CREW, GETTY STOCK

Men’s skincare has been an increasingly hot topic in recent years, yet a staggering number of men have yet to learn how to address their skin concerns. While men may not have, want, or even need a 12-step skincare routine, that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t take care of their skin. It’s time for a crash course on the proper tips and techniques to help protect your clients from winter dryness and mask-ne (acne caused by wearing a a cotton or fabric face mask).

Tor 7 onto 193 Ba rber and Be auty Supply Since

What Clients From Gen Z to Baby Boomers, we’re breaking down the key cut, style and colour trends to help you give clients exactly what they’re looking for—and more! BY VERONICA BOODHAN

UNDER 24

GENERATION Z

» CUT/STYLE

MILEY CYRUS

#Throwback

“We’re starting to notice more people ask for something that frames their face. In the ’90s, the Rachel haircut was the style everyone was wearing and it’s coming back—not with the original soft and wispy effect, but with a similar shape and silhouette. Some people may bring in a picture of a shag and say they don’t want it that short, but what that means from a

Z EXPERT TIP: WONG SAYS SOME STYLISTS TEND TO FORCE HAIR INTO A BOB SHAPE, WHICH CREATES TEXTURED PIECES ON THE TOP OF THE HEAD AND CAN CAUSE THE HAIR TO LOOK FLAT. HE RECOMMENDS CUTTING THE LENGTH INTO A BOB AND WORKING THE LAYERS AND TEXTURE INTO THE CUT TO CREATE A BETTER TRANSITION.

28 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

technical perspective is that they want their hair layered a lot more.” — Sherman Wong, creative director of education for Collega

“I’m noticing more people are starting to ask about more of a shag cut or baby

Wella Professionals Color Fresh Create Ammonia-free, semi-permanent colour that fades trueto-tone and lasts up to 20 washes.

bangs. Some people are still a little afraid to do it, because it’s more of a highcommitment haircut, so they want to dip their toes in. Planting the seed is key.” — Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

Redken City Beats An acidic conditioning semi-permanent colour cream available in 14 bold shades.

Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID A customizable semi-permanent colour masque with integrated bonding technology.

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

Whether it’s the latest celebrity haircut or a playful bold hue, there’s no denying that when it comes to their hair, the under-24 age group tends to be willing to push the envelope. Help them express themselves while giving them a look as unique as they are.

Want game-plan. I also find that they are more focused on ingredients and seem to be in the know when it comes to what the products do and how they work. They are the generation that grew up with cell phones, so they quickly Google things and have their research done.” ROSÉ

Bold and Beautiful

“There are exceptions to every rule, but if you think about where Gen Z tends to get a lot of their inspiration and feedback, it’s from their peers and on social media, where they have all of this great content to look at and strive towards achieving. They tend to be the clientele that are more experimental with their hair colour and almost always have a

— Grant Carson, a Torontobased hairstylist and educator for Schwarzkopf Professional

“With the younger generation, I’m doing a lot of pastel toning. Many of them are wanting soft pink and purple tones as well as a lot of lightening services, but still with impactful, fashion colours—especially with high school kids who love purples, pinks, jewel-tone greens and blues.” — Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

Wella Color Touch Low-commitment, ammonia-free demipermanent colour that offers multidimensional results that last up to 24 shampoos.

Redken Color Gels Lacquers Liquid permanent colour with a lowammonia base, delivering 100 per cent grey coverage and intense shine.

Schwarzkopf Professional tbh – true beautiful honest Multidimensional permanent colour designed to illuminate hair’s natural highs and lows for naturallooking results.

“Balayage and face-framing or low-maintenance regrowth but with a bold colour in it. They don’t just want a blonde balayage, but a pink balayage, pastel or peach. Inspired by K-Pop, they like bolder colours but still follow the trends of wanting something more natural but with bolder tones.”

Show Me the Money

— Catherine Allard, a Montrealbased hairstylist and colour ambassador for Redken

“With this generation and up to the 30-somethings, I find that a lot of them are looking for that money piece—a very lightened piece in the front, with more babylights towards the back. The money piece is a consistent trend throughout [the generations] but the tonality is different.”

BEYONCÉ

» COLOUR

— Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

24 TO 40 YEARS

GENERATION Y Spanning the ages of 24 to 40, this group (aka. Millennials) tend to want a wide range of looks, from blonde balayage to rich, multidimensional shades. Find out how to transition clients from longer locks or bolder gen Z looks to chic, refined shapes and shades. ➤

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 29

» CUT/STYLE

LUCY HALE

Making the Cut

— Grant Carson, a Torontobased hairstylist and educator for Schwarzkopf Professional

“We’re still seeing a lot of long hair with wavy styles, but more people are willing to cut it and try the lob, bob and more unstructured haircuts.”

Blonde Ambition

– Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

“For clients who have been more adventurous in the past and want to transition their hair back [to something longer], a bob or lob haircut is always a good choice.” — Sherman Wong, creative director of education for Collega

“With millennials, we’re seeing a lot more blonde. All shades from very cool blondes to purposeful golden blondes. The money piece in the front is still really

“THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE, BUT [GENERATION Z] TEND TO BE THE CLIENTELE THAT ARE MORE EXPERIMENTAL WITH THEIR HAIR COLOUR AND ALMOST ALWAYS HAVE A GAME-PLAN.” –GRANT CARSON, TORONTO-BASED HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATOR FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

30 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

popular, especially as you get into the late-30s, but with a lot of balayage and freehand painting. It’s a more grown out, ‘done/undone’ look.” HAILEY BALDWIN

“They’re probably one of the more difficult clienteles to have a grasp on, since you can have someone in their mid20s who is just out of school or finding their feet in their industry to the other end of the spectrum, where they are up to 40 years old and well established in their life. If you look at trends and what you can be doing in the salon, it ranges, and a good portion of your clientele will want something different.”

— Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

Low Maintenance “We’re doing a lot of faceframing and highlights around the face. From ages 30 to 39, you start to see some grey hair, but you don’t really embrace those yet. Clients typically want something more natural with a lot of dimension and colour in the front, with blending at the roots. This generation is the generation of Facebook and Instagram, and they really want healthy hair. They ask for it before you talk about it.” — Catherine Allard, a Montrealbased hairstylist and colour ambassador for Redken

UNDER 55

Generation X For clients under the age of 55, low-maintenance cuts and colour tend to be in high demand, but that doesn’t mean embracing the trends isn’t important to them. Learn how to give these clients the best of both worlds.

Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect A permanent hair colour offering up to five levels of lift and 100 per cent grey coverage.

Redken Shades EQ An acidic, ammoniafree liquid demipermanent colour for toning, correcting and glossing.

» CUT/STYLE

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vibrance A liquid demipermanent colour that transforms into gel or cream consistencies for versatile applications.

“I find that millennials need the most guidance on what you can achieve for them. For example, if you had a Gen Z client who’s now more of a millennial, they may be transitioning from a fashion tone to something more natural in an effort to look more grown-up. If you go further into the age demographic to someone in their mid- to late-30s, the white hairs start popping up and you have to discuss coverage and have a game plan for how you want to tackle them.” — Grant Carson, a Torontobased hairstylist and educator for Schwarzkopf Professional

— Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

Bang It

“Curtain bangs have been around for a while now but a lot more people are asking for it. I would suggest cutting the front piece into a curtain bang, but not too much into the full haircut, and just get a piece behind the curtain bang slightly layered so there’s a bit of blending. People are more

EXPERT TIP: WHEN ADDING ANY TEXTURE OR LAYERS TO HAIR, WONG SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO UNDERSTAND HOW THE CLIENT STYLES THEIR HAIR AT HOME. HE RECOMMENDS ASKING BEFORE CUTTING TO AVOID OVER-TEXTURIZING AND CAUSING IT TO LOOK WISPY AND SEPARATED.

receptive to trying layers, and curtain bangs are a good transition to see what layers will look like around their face.” — Sherman Wong, creative director of education for Collega

» COLOUR Speak Their Language “When comparing Gen X to millennials or Gen Z, it’s important to remember that millennials and Gen Z grew up with all the technology and inspiration imagery in front of them, whereas that may not have been as readily available with Gen X, so they aren’t infiltrated with change and may not see it on a daily basis. If you look at Gen X and what you can offer them, it’s not just a brand-new fringe or slightly different shift in their colour—it’s giving them all of the options and all of the imagery you can find that’s relevant to them as a generation.” — Grant Carson, a Torontobased hairstylist and educator for Schwarzkopf Professional

Natural Reaction

JESSICA CHASTAIN

— Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

“Generation X likes the look of the bob and lob, which continues to be a trend with the 40-something crew. Also, the French bob—a shorter, wavy bob that’s a sleek and chic haircut.”

CAMILA CABELLO

“People want to look lowmaintenance and like they haven’t had a lot done, but we’re putting a lot of work into achieving it. I feel like people want to look very natural, with the highlights or babylights effect we had when we were children—a really soft blend of shades.”

KHLOÉ KARDASHIAN

Better Bob

“They want more natural looks while remaining trendy. Nothing too bold, but a subtle money piece, or [experimenting] with warm tones. They definitely want shiny, healthy-looking hair so a lot of dimension and rich colour, such as caramel or chocolate, is important.” — Catherine Allard, a Montrealbased hairstylist and colour ambassador for Redken

“There’s not as much bold placement of colour. It’s softer looking with a soft, diffused root area and money pieces, babylights, teasylights [a hybrid of traditional highlights and balayage] that lend well to not having to do it as frequently. I think that ➤

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 31

will likely be more of a trend considering the world today and people not getting out as much as they used to.” — Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

OVER 55

BABY BOOMERS While you may think you have this older generation all figured out, they may just throw you for a loop. Remember to use every opportunity available to suggest something new, even if it’s the subtlest change.

» CUT/STYLE

BOOMERS

“Since COVID, I’ve been surprised at how open they’ve been when it comes to their haircut. A lot of clients from this age group actually want to make a change. They may have had longer hair that is at the collarbone and want to cut it above the shoulder, or were wearing a bob and want to try something really short, like a pixie, or are asking for more layers.” — Sherman Wong, creative director of education for Collega

Less is More “Adding a curtain bang is something really easy for these clients to try. It’s a very commercial look and can work on most people. It

EXPERT TIP: RATHER THAN HOLDING THE HAIR DOWN AND USE POINT-CUTTING TO CREATE TEXTURE, WONG PREFERS TO LIFT UP THE SECTIONS AND CUT THE HAIR UP. USING SCISSORS FOR POINT-CUTTING OR SLICE CUTTING, THIS TECHNIQUE ALLOWS THE HAIR TO DROP FOR A SOFTER LOOK WITH MORE MOVEMENT AND NATURAL TEXTURE.

» COLOUR Grey Matter

LISA LAFLAMME

SHARON OSBOURNE

Changing it Up

can be quite long—to their cheekbones—so I encourage people to consider it. Or when someone is really resistant to change, I tell clients that changing their part changes up their whole look. I’ll often blow-dry their hair with a different part, and they feel like they’ve done something different.” — Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in Paradise, Nfld.

32 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

“During COVID, a lot of people let their roots grow out and saw that grey, and wanted to go with more natural looks. That has become a huge movement— more than ever. I’m doing a lot of colour correction to get rid of the artificial colour to allow more natural growth to come out. A few of my clients have gone back to natural or have gone back to

lowlighting or highlighting to add more dimension, but they’re not going back to full colour. People are so excited to be back in a salon and get their hair done, but if there is a second wave [that closes salons] they’re asking if they can get something that’s similar to their natural colour in case they have to self-isolate again. Many don’t want to see the regrowth they did with the first lockdown because they didn’t feel beautiful.” — Catherine Allard, a Montrealbased hairstylist and colour ambassador for Redken

For more tips on helping your clients embrace their grey, turn to page 24.

PHOTO: HAIR: ROBERT KIRBY, ROBERT KIRBY LONDON, U.K., MAKEUP: MARTA WOZNIAK, PHOTO: ANDREW KIMBER

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO FINISHING HAIR Consider finishing hair a lost art? Think again! We spoke with the experts for tips, tricks and techniques to take your craft to the next level. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 33

When it comes to finishing hair well, many experts say that the most important step is focusing on how you start. After all, the planning and preparation for any finished look begins when the client sits in your chair, so envisioning each step of the process is essential. Whether your end goal is a stellar blow-dry or beachy waves, finishing is not only akin to adding a signature to your work by including a personal touch, it also elevates your client’s look and brings it together as a “finished” style. “It’s adding value to your work, which is everything,” says Emmanuelle Campolieti, a Montreal-based hairstylist and artistic team member for Moroccanoil. “If a stylist does a beautiful balayage, the colour will be nice, but if you finish it with a beautiful blow-dry, apply a nice shine product and add some volume and waves, it makes the whole look 100 per cent better.” From prepping and planning to styling with various tools and products, a lot of thought goes into finishing hair, so we’re breaking it down for you by the finished look you (and your client) will want to achieve this season.

important.” When finishing hair, she takes many things into consideration, such as face shape, hair direction, washing, sectioning and creating a focal point. But the one factor that is nonnegotiable is the use of highquality tools. “You need to invest in the best equipment possible to get a premium result,” says Blain, adding that she follows a combination of several tips and tricks to always get the perfect finished look, no matter what her client’s goals are. According to Toronto-based hairstylist and salon owner Donna Dolphy, finishing is your signature, which is a huge selling point for stylists. “It makes clients feel amazing

SHARON BLAIN

The “Finishing” Touches Award-winning Australian hairstylist and educator Sharon Blain compares the need for finishing hair to decorating a room: “You can paint a room and put furniture in, but it’s those finishing touches that are 34 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

“EVERY HAIRSTYLIST AT ONE POINT IN THEIR CAREER WANTS TO HAVE THAT SIGNATURE WHERE PEOPLE JUST LOOK AT A PICTURE AND KNOW IT’S THEIR WORK.”

PHOTOS (LEFT): SHARON BLAIN, HAIR: EMMANUELLE CAMPOLIETI, PHOTO: CHLOÉ CRANE-LEROUX; EMMANUELLE CAMPOLIETI

–EMMANUELLE CAMPOLIETI, MONTREAL-BASED HAIRSTYLIST AND MOROCCANOIL ARTISTIC TEAM MEMBER

and gives them a complete and finished look that makes them look like a million dollars,” she says. “It’s like the icing on a cake.” In fact, Dolphy is so passionate about finishing that she created her own technique. “I developed ‘Blow Dry Non-Kissing (aka. NonKissing Blow Dry) to give a much longer lasting effect than a curling iron,” she says. “I also don’t damage hair fibre with this technique as it respects the integrity of the hair. The hair passes through the brush and blow dryer, which creates an oxidation that preserves elasticity in the hair fibres. My technique makes the hair dance, shine and bounce without burning it.” Sleek and Straight If you want to create a very polished and sleek ponytail, Campolieti suggests making sure you have the right products to achieve the look, and to first understand the texture of your client’s hair. “I must make sure the cuticle of the hair is very polished and smooth while still finishing some shine in it.” As for Blain, she advises against combing the hair once the ponytail is in the hair. “To get a perfect, sleek finish

around the hairline, place the metal end of a tail comb at the hairline, lift it slightly and slip the tail back to the pony,” she says. “Repeat this technique all around the hairline. It will help smooth out any imperfections.” While styling is a big part of finishing, so is the prep. When Dolphy’s client wants to achieve a smooth finish, she’ll adapt her signature blow dry technique by starting with a smoothing shampoo and conditioner. She may also add in a leave-in conditioner or deep treatment to create extra moisture and smoothness within the hair fibre. “I’ll condition from root to end so everything is smooth and then comb through,” she says. She’ll also go in with a smoothing product before sectioning the hair, and says it’s important to keep the ends locked into the brush. With her non-kiss blow drying technique, she never touches the blow dryer to the hair in order to achieve a bouncier, shinier and longerlasting effect and finish.

DID YOU KNOW? SOME MAY THINK THAT FINISHING PROS WOULD SHY AWAY FROM SHINE PRODUCTS, TO NOT RISK MAKING THE HAIR GREASY, WHEN IN FACT MOST ACTUALLY RELY ON SHINE PRODUCTS TO FINISH THEIR LOOKS!

EMMANUELLE CAMPOLIETI

Volume According to Campolieti, if you want to have a very polished, textured look with a lot of volume, you’re not going to achieve it by ➤ salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 35

Waves and Curls When it comes to finishing wavy or curly hair, Campolieti says she chooses products depending on what she needs to achieve and where she wants the hair to go. If the technique is for waves, she needs to determine the type of curling iron to use and which barrel size is required for the waves she wants to create. “A great hairstylist should be able to determine

what products, tools and techniques to use for any given style,” she says. While there are many different ways to achieve wavy looks, Blain’s technique takes a more old-school approach. “Old-fashioned wave clips are the perfect way to help strengthen wave movements when a 1940s

EXPERT TIP: BLAIN SUGGESTS USING A REGULAR HOLD HAIRSPRAY TO HELP HOLD THE HAIR IN PLACE, BUT ADVISES AGAINST OVER-SPRAYING THE HAIR, AS IT WILL MAKE THE HAIR DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH.

DONNA DOLPHY

look is required since they can be used if a flat-scalped wave is desired,” she says. “For a softer, more modern wave, wave clips can also be used to enhance a hot roller or tong set. When using wave clips, place the top of the clip into the top ridge of the wave, then clip the bottom half under the ridge. Spray with a medium hairspray and allow to dry before carefully removing the clips.” As for curls, Blain has mastered the perfect recipe. “Three ingredients are needed to produce the perfect curl result: Heat, tension and allowing the hair to cool down,” she says. “Whether you use thermal tongs, hot rollers, or even a round brush blow-dry, always consider the above for a perfect curl result.” Updos (and Don’ts) Known for her bridal hair and finishing techniques, Blain has had a ton of experience in mastering the art. When it comes to updos, she says you should never prepare the hair with a straightening iron because it will make the

“IT MAKES CLIENTS FEEL AMAZING AND GIVES THEM A COMPLETE AND FINISHED LOOK... IT’S LIKE THE ICING ON A CAKE.” –DONNA DOLPHY, DONNA DOLPHY HAIR, TORONTO

36 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

PHOTOS (LEFT): HAIR: DONNA DOLPHY, PHOTO: NICK MERZETTI; SHARON BLAIN

using hairspray. “If you want it to feel effortless but you’re working with tons of hairspray, you’re not going to have the feeling you want because hairspray is very sticky,” she says. “If you want that effortless flowy vibe, you can use a texture spray or something a bit more volatile.” While Campolieti uses different products and styling techniques depending on the look she is finishing, Dolphy adjusts her blow-dry technique, which is great for clients with finer hair who want to achieve a voluminous look. “I’ll begin with a volume shampoo and volume conditioner and I’ll only put the conditioner on the ends that are porous and need moisture, and not at the roots,” says Dolphy. “If I put it on the root, it’ll get too silky and will prevent it from getting volume.”

“YOU NEED TO INVEST IN THE BEST EQUIPMENT POSSIBLE TO GET A PREMIUM RESULT.” – SHARON BLAIN, SHARON BLAIN EDUCATION, AUSTRALIA

SHARON BLAIN hair slippery and silky, which can create static. She also recommends using diagonal sections “to avoid the hair from splitting and creating unnecessary parting.” For products, Blain suggests a combination of both medium hold hairspray and a lightweight shine spray when dressing the hair. “This helps hair to not look ‘plastic’ and unnatural.” Just like everyone has their own style for cutting or colouring, every good stylist has their personal finishing technique as well. “Every hairstylist wants to have that signature where people just look at a picture and know it’s their work,” says Campolieti. “I’m a perfectionist, so I always try to push the perfection to the next level. My finished looks always look romantic and lived in, but also very polished. She recommends taking a picture of the look just before you think it’s finished to get a different vision and some insight. “After I see it from all angles and perspectives, I can then say, ‘now it’s done—don’t touch.’ Part of finishing is knowing when and where to finish.”

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 37

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CO LLE CTIO NS

November+December

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. 39 salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; SHADES OF GLORY

This Canadian collection features muted tones and playful styles for a striking and cohesive result.

CONTESSA 2020 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. MAKEUP Michael Chua, Elizabeth Alfonso, Feana Hanin PHOTOS Kale Friesen

40 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 41

Collections — BALANCE & SHAPE

This awardwinning Australian collection showcases cutting-edge styles with technical precision.

HAIR Emiliano Vitale & Lisa Muscat-Vitale, é SALON, Australia MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole WARDROBE STYLING Lydia Jane Saunders PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole

42 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 43

Collections — PURE

Sleek cuts and saturated tones combine with expert finishing techniques to bring life to this stunning British collection.

HAIR Terri Kay, Mark Leeson Salons, U.K. WARDROBE STYLING Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole

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Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GUILTY

This Spanish collection combines sleek styles with grunge-inspired looks for some serious hair inspiration.

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HAIR Paula Alonso Pérez, Salón Blue by Raquel Saiz, Spain MAKEUP Manuela Gimenez WARDROBE STYLING Salón Blue by Raquel Saiz PHOTOS Esteban Roca salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 47

Collections — DARE

This captivating collection of textured looks and stunning hair colour add a high-fashion feel to an ultra-feminine aesthetic.

CONTESSA 2020 ENTRANT, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Robert Bushy, SENSE – A Robert Bushy Salon, U.S. MAKEUP Danielle Smith WARDROBE STYLING Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Richard Miles

48 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 49

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; BOLD

This Canadian collection features striking shapes and bright hues for an elegant yet edgy masterpiece.

50 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

CONTESSA 2020 FINALIST, BRITISH COLUMBIA Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond, B.C. MAKEUP Maria Li WARDROBE STYLING Sirena Shonuck PHOTOS Babak

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; WAVY

The glowing and dewy looks may be the focal point of this collection, but it's the chic and sparkling â&#x20AC;&#x2122;dos that make them truly shine.

MAKEUP Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Freelance, Laval, Que. PHOTOS Ara Sassoonian MODEL Leila (MontageModels)

52 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; CRAFT

Strong lines and powerful hues collide with soft textures to make this British collection pop.

HAIR Thomas Hills and Lauren Killick, TH1 Hair, U.K. MAKEUP Claire DeGraft WARDROBE STYLING Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Richard Miles

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GOLD SPONSORS

CONTESSA AWARDS 2021 the *virtual* party of the year DATE

N OV EM B ER 8, 2020

MORE DETAILS AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

• #Contessa2021 • #ContessaAwards

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Aprille Bouchard Toronto-based hairstylist Aprille Bouchard found her way into the world of hair more than 20 years ago, when she began her career as an actress. While working on set for various acting gigs, she noticed how much fun the hairstylists were having. While she knew she had an artistic drive and was thinking of becoming a makeup artist, her heart eventually led her to hair. She’s been showcasing her creativity throughout her career, including the 2020 Contessa Awards, in which she’s earned two finalist titles—one of them for the Session Hairstylist category. The collection featured intricate hair pieces of various shapes, patterns and textures. Her vision was to produce stunning yet simple work that could stand on its own. “I wanted to bring that very classic and clean look that stylists used to do before Photoshop,” says Bouchard. “I come from a generation where, when we did photo shoots, your shot was what you had to work with,

58 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

so it’s embedded in me to want to get it right with minimal touchups.” Weave Your Mark This creative collection showcased three different hair pieces that were all shaped and molded into different textures and patterns, but according to Bouchard, the most time-consuming look was a woven wig with a low-placed bun. She used a weaving loom to form each of the hair squares until it looked like a woven piece of fabric. “This was my most complex look because it was all done by hand and took a lot of finessing,” she says. “It was such intricate work and my main objective was for it to look perfect. So, if a piece started to fall out, I would take it out and start over again.” After days of continuous work, she had made approximately seven to eight different pieces of woven hair in various shapes and sizes in order to be able to manipulate them into an actual hairstyle through the use of pins and folding.

Haute Couture When it came to the overall feel of the collection, Bouchard had one word in mind: Chanel. “I wanted the models to look clean, classic and feminine,” she says. “With the lace, pearls and even the hair pieces that I wanted to resemble classic hats, I wanted to create that old-school Chanel look.” She brought her vision to life through the use of creative wardrobe, jewellery and even makeup with a classic, bold red lip that brought a level of balance to the overall classic feel. Looking ahead, Bouchard says she’s excited to continue producing “out of the box” work that she feels has been missing from her everyday routine. “I love to make people happy on a daily basis but pulling out that artistic side where there are no boundaries and I don’t have to consult with the client is really exciting,” she says. “It’s been a long time since I did something this creative.”

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: APRILLE BOUCHARD, TAZ HAIR CO., TORONTO, MAKEUP: PAOLA MANIGAT, PHOTO: NATASHA GERSCHON

Contessa Gallery — 2020 FINALIST, SESSION HAIRSTYLIST

“Pulling out that artistic side where there are no boundaries and I don’t have to consult with the client is really exciting.”

CONTESSA 2021 FINALISTS! CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab Coiffeurs, Montreal Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Alain Pereque, Freelance/Independent, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta. Morgan Roy, Aveda Academy Salon, Toronto Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Civello Salon Spa, North York, Ont. Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. Marc Bernier Coiffure, Ste-Julie, Que. Salon Collage, Toronto Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Salon Pure, Montreal Taz Hair Co., Toronto The Expert Team, Verdun, Que. Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab Coiffeurs, Montreal Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MASTER COLOURIST Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver David Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. Jennifer Vermeer, Salon Vermeer – Where Art Meets Hair, Hamilton, Ont. SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab Coiffeurs, Montreal Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Dat Tran, Album Hair, Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Victor Alonso, Espacio Kibo by Victor Alonso, Valencia, Spain Rafael Bueno, Rafael Bueno Peluqueros, Málaga, Spain Robert Bushy, SENSE – A Robert Bushy Salon, Madison, WI, U.S. Dmitri Papas, Papas and Pace, Brisbane, Australia Danny Pato, D&M Hair Design, Auckland, New Zealand CANADIAN COLOURIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton Victoria MacInnis, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont.

EMERGING HAIRSTYLIST Brittney Clarke, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Robynn Graham, Hair by Robynn, Innisfil, Ont. Kelly Heroux, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Laura Metansinine, Richardson Hair Design, Kemptville, Ont. Michelle Nahmad, Blushes, Ottawa

FREESTYLE Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. @frankgaboa Tracy Newton, Poppy Hair, Vancouver @newtonsflaws Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. @michellepargee Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto @stephanieschewe Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. @julievriesinga ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton Jag Moussa, JagHed Couture, Calgary Kelsey Sebo, Ivory Noir Salon, Edmonton Sasha Thaxter, Sass Studio, Calgary ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Ali Pike, The Seahorse Salon, St. John’s, Nfld. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. Eryn Wall, The Headroom Salon & Spa, Paradise, Nfld. BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Hannah Hewitt, Axis Hair Salons, Vancouver Curtis Hunter, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Jessy Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Michael Levine, Space Salon, Vancouver Denise Meikle, Salon Origins, Vancouver ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Julie Carr, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas Ashley Lindsay, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby Joey Marchese, Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London Isabel Wilson, Opus Salon and Spa, St. Thomas QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Vicky Busque, Hangar Coiffure, Drummondville Vanessa Secondino, Salon Pure, Montreal Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Tim et Sim, Montreal Sophie Tessier, Salon Larousse, Montreal SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Colby Budnick, Salon Haze, Regina Baillie Fyfe, Evoluir Hair Salon, Winnipeg Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg Renn VonDyck, Elan Hair Studio, Winnipeg

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Yves Houde, Atelier Mega Coiffure, Que. Ludovic Leroy, The Expert Team, Verdun, Que. Denise Meikle, Salon Origins, Vancouver Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Liliya Leheta, Belle Beauty Boutique, Mississauga, Ont. Olga Khazova, European Standard by Olga Khazova, Medicine Hat, Alta. Robyn Schwartz, Robyn Schwartz Nail Design, Long Creek, P.E.I. Shirley Truong, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Ana Mae Villagracia, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto MAKEUP ARTIST Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Heidi Fleming, Beauty by Heidi Amelia, Morden, N.S. Timothy Hung, Timothy Hung Design Group Ltd., Vancouver Florencia Taylor, Florencia Taylor Makeup, London, Ont. Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Freelance, Laval, Que. MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto Aran Beattie, Vanity House, London, Ont. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Marilyn Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont. Jae Jeong, Avant Garde Hair Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. Lukas Press, Lukas Press, Toronto Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Aprille Bouchard, Freelance, Toronto Vicky Busque, Hangar Coiffure, Drummondville, Que. Julie Carr, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Katrina Lapierre, Brennen Demelo Studio North, Barrie, Ont. SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Define Hair Studio, Woodbridge, Ont. Her Studios Inc., Burlington, Ont. Onyx & Ivory, Calgary Studio So Lara, Kitchener, Ont. Trichology Boutique, North York, Ont. JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Beauty FX, Barrie, Ont. Concrete Blonde Hair Body, Sherwood Park, Alta. Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Zazou Salon and Academy, North Vancouver, B.C.

Brand Awareness Business —

With the holiday season looking quite different this year, learn how to use this opportunity to maximize your business.

From rebuilding your clientele after the shutdown to having fewer clients in the salon at one time, the COVID-19 pandemic has been a gut check for many salons. While there’s a good chance the holiday season could be significantly less busy than normal for salons—and virtual events continuing to gain momentum—the potential downtime presents an amazing opportunity to invest in your business. We spoke with experts for tips and strategies they used to grow their brands.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: GETTY

Online Presence At the height of the pandemic closure, many salons spent their downtime investing in their online presence—from revamping their website to investing more time on their social media. While you may have less free time now that you’re back to work, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t continue to make an effort. “You have to invest more of your time and energy to make sure you’re constantly posting new and interesting content, and interacting with your audience. It helps a lot when building a clientele and increases your visibility.”— Maggie Semaan “It’s crazy if you’re not doing it. You start [communicating with] people and it pushes you to work harder. Your hair gets so much better because you’re looking at it through a photo lens, so you see every problem with it.” — Kelly O’Leary Attracting New Clientele Even if you or your salon are overbooked or not accepting new clients, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be actively trying to attract new clientele. “Your chairs and team may be busy, but if people don’t see that on social media they will never know. If you’re posting a lot and people see how active you are, it can attract new clients. As a salon owner, you have to start giving clients to your team. I’m keeping my team very busy with clients who are calling to book appointments with me, but being overbooked or not available, they trust the fact that I built my team and have a reputation so I’m going to make sure they’re happy.” — Maggie Semaan “People get attached to a stylist’s vibe as a team, including what the salon’s values are, what

Kelly O’Leary is the owner of Sapphire Hair Lounge in Winnipeg. She is an international educator with Pulp Riot and is known for her use of creative hair colour.

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Maggie Semaan is the owner of Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan in Montreal. She is an international hair artist with Balmain Hair Couture and was named the Canadian Colourist of the Year at the 2020 Contessa Awards.

it stands for, what kind of business it is, etc. For example, we’re a Green Circle Salon and [promote] sustainability on our social media, and we get tons of clients that are really interested in that. Putting that information out there can get you a whole new market of clients.” — Kelly O’Leary Pre-Bookings While pre-bookings are important year-round, they can be incredibly crucial as you head into the holiday season. Why? They’ll help make sure your salon is maximizing the high demand while ensuring clients can book their next appointment before their next virtual or in-person event. “You should always pre-book clients; it’s not just a Christmas thing. It’s very convenient to do during COVID because everyone wants to get in, yet for some reason I think some hairstylists still feel weird talking about it. Now more than ever is a really great time to get people used to pre-booking.” — Kelly O’Leary EXPERT TIP: A KEY TAKEAWAY THAT SEMAAN LEARNED FROM HER EARLY DAYS AS A SALON OWNER IS TO OFFER A PRE-BOOKING PROMOTION, SUCH AS 10 PER CENT OFF THE CLIENT’S NEXT APPOINTMENT IF THEY PRE-BOOK, WHICH SHE RECOMMENDS FOR A SALON OWNER OR STYLIST WHO IS JUST STARTING OUT AND LOOKING TO BUILD A CLIENTELE.

“If you’re consistent with pre-booking and educating your stylists and clients, you’ll constantly be busy and won’t need to do promotions. It will be more profitable for you, and your clients will want to come to you. It’s not about what they’re paying; it’s about the quality, service and final result.” — Maggie Semaan Competitive Edge Whether it’s competitions or photo shoots, creating content both in and out of the chair can help propel your business. “I will never stop competitions because they are so fulfilling, and they really bring you as a person and a stylist to the next level. People should start getting more involved in competitions, especially if they want to showcase their talent and prove themselves. Competitions can help you showcase what makes you different and help build your authority [in the industry].” — Maggie Semaan

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Profile — NAEEMAH LAFOND

Making a Statement Find out how editorial hairstylist Naeemah LaFond continues to break barriers—whether she’s working behind the scenes or on stage.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

You do a lot of work at Fashion Week. Tell us about that and what it was like this year at NYFW for autumn/winter 2020. Fashion Week is my favourite part of my job. The little girl in me who grew up watching Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell strut the runways comes alive every single time I 62 salonmagazine.ca / November +December 2020

have the privilege of working the shows. This year in particular was a career highlight because of the Christopher John Rogers show. Working that show, I just knew that something special was happening. The statement hair, the inclusivity, the love in the room. It’s one of those moments where you can literally feel yourself walking in your purpose. So when I woke up the next morning to tons of press about the hair, I was flying high as a kite. What’s the secret to working with a fashion designer for their show, while still being able to push yourself creatively? Remember that it’s not your show. You are there to help bring a vision to life. When a designer gives you some creative freedom, that’s always the best, but you can’t expect that to be the case every time. Keep in mind that you can add your signature in the details. What do you most enjoy about editorial hairstyling? The artistry of editorial styling is what draws me every time. Editorial styling is where I’m able to be the artist that I am. Where salon styling is based on current trends and looks, concepts for editorial styling can be sculpted from your imagination, pulled from past eras, and referenced from all parts of the world.

I can then pull references and create something of my own. Research has been so vital to my success. Without knowing the history of hairstyling you can really limit yourself and your point of view.

Where do you get your inspiration from? I get my inspiration from people and the past. The woman who sits in my chair is always my first source of inspiration.

You’ve become known for creating beautiful hair with finishing techniques. Why is finishing so important to you? Why don’t more hairstylists dedicate time toward learning finishing skills?

PHOTOS: AMIKA

Tell us about yourself and why you decided to become a hairstylist. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York and am the daughter of Haitian immigrants. I grew up surrounded by women who love beauty and fashion. Even in times when we didn’t have much, the women in my family always found ways to do their hair in the latest styles and dress in the coolest outfits— even if they had to make their clothes themselves. I grew up around roller sets, braids, at-home colour treatments, all of it. My love for hair was engrained in my DNA but I think that I began to notice it myself when I fell in love with Barbies as a little girl. Having Barbies allowed me to create and use my imagination. With that said, I didn’t look at being a hairstylist as a career option until I was in college and found myself always doing everyone’s hair for parties and events. I realized that it didn’t feel like work for me. Inserting myself into beauty moments was something that just came naturally because of my upbringing, but in college I was really able to see how much my love for hair stuck out like a sore thumb. My destiny was calling. I left school and came home to Brooklyn to start my journey. The rest is history.

DID YOU KNOW? Naeemah LaFond has created a guide with tips to help improve diversity in the beauty industry! Visit SalonMagazine.ca for more details.

Finishing skills are what I enjoy the most. For me it’s the most creative part of the hairstyling process. It’s a personal choice. Where some may be pulled more towards the cut or colour process, I’m really moved by sculpting the hair. Education appears to be a big passion of yours. Why is it so important to you and what do you think the industry is missing in terms of education? Education for the most part is what determines how successful you will be in this industry. “Education is Key” isn’t a term exclusively for standard education. This relates to all forms of information related to your career. The more you know, the more you grow. As a woman of colour, how have you overcome obstacles and not let

yourself get discouraged by the lack of diversity in the beauty industry? Any examples that you could share with us? When I first landed the job as amika’s global artistic director there were many times that I felt discouraged. I was the only black global artistic director, of a mainstream hair brand at all of the industry events and shows, and I often had experiences where I felt unwelcomed by the industry. However, those experiences were balanced by the support of many people—specifically black people who would stop to acknowledge me and let me know that I inspired them and gave them hope. So yes, I often felt discouraged, but my determination was never wavered. There was a bigger task at hand and I was locked in on making sure that my presence opened doors for other people that look like me.

As amika’s global artistic director, what do you most enjoy about working with the brand? What I enjoy most about working with the brand is the people. For me, when I work for a company, the personal experiences mean more to me than anything else. You can get a paycheck anywhere, but having the opportunity to work alongside people who are kind, supportive, and fun allows you to really do your best work and live up to your fullest potential. What’s next for you? Any goals you’re working towards that you can share with us? I don’t really like to publicly share too many of my goals, but I can say that opening doors for people that look like me is still at the top of the list.

salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 63

Interiors — FRENCHIE’S HAIR

Find out how this Edmonton-based salon was ahead of the curve in creating a private and personalized environment for their clients. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

All-Inclusive Experience As longtime friends from business school, Brittany Newby and Caitlin Whitson decided to open their salon, Frenchie’s Hair, after noticing a lack of service experience being offered in the industry. Newby, a hairstylist for more than 17 years, realized that a typical stylist’s routine in a salon didn't leave much opportunity for growing the client and stylist relationship. “We always talk about how we need to retail and how we need to offer an experience, but we don’t give stylists the time to really connect with the guest,” she says. “It was really important to us to maximize the experience for our clients, while making it easy and effortless for a stylist. Every single thing we do—blowdrys, haircuts, colour—is systemized and is about consistency for the guest.” Mindfulness Matters With wellness top of mind for its stylists and guests, the concept for Frenchie’s was born. Whitson and Newby had a fundamental role in the salon’s 64 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

meticulous design, which offers clients a one-to-one experience with their stylist. “It’s about keeping our mindfulness on one guest at a time, and it can still be very profitable for a salon,” says Newby, who’s also a trainer for Eufora International. “I think we get stuck in our industry on how things have always been done. We’re still creative with hair and always finding the next great thing, but it often doesn’t translate into that full experience—the actual emotional nature of hair itself.” Once guests arrive, they are greeted in a private waiting area and are taken to a change room where they can store their belongings before being given a tour of the space. Then, they are seated in a private area for their consultation. “We’re not only thinking about everything from the customer or stylist’s point of view, but also creating a space where people could come in and get their image taken care of but also be in a place that’s architecturally beautiful,” says Whitson. “It’s clean and evokes a sense of calm and well-being.”

Ahead of the Times In light of the COVID-19 pandemic, which has required salons to implement social distancing practices while limiting the number of clients in the salon, both factors have already been a big part of the Frenchie’s culture. “Due to the new regulations, other salons had been forced to tell their clients to leave their belongings in their car, or that they can’t come in until it’s their appointment time,” says Whitson. “We were lucky because we already thought of that when we built our space, dedicating a location for people to lock up their things privately. We can also clean in between appointments and not contaminate anyone else. We have longevity in offering this type of approach to our guests because it’s how we did from day one.” The salon features a hair wash lounge in a separate room, which includes different lighting and music to create a relaxing ambiance for guests and stylists. “Our wash basins are set up for optimum comfort for the guests, but they also raise and lower, which is for the

OPENED 2019 SPACE 1,300 square-feet DESIGNER Wolski Design Group

PHOTOS: IAN GRANT PHOTOGRAPHY & WOLSKI DESIGN GROUP

TEAM 5 hairstylists, 1 makeup artist

stylists,” says Newby. “It’s quiet in the room, so stylists have a few moments— exactly eight minutes—every time they do their shampoos to relax and get into a meditative state. The feedback we’ve received from our stylists has been that it’s giving them a little rejuvenation and it’s a comfortable experience, so both parties are winning.” As for the stations (or pods, as they call them), each one is kept quite minimalistic with a chair, two shelves, mirror and trolley cart, and are separated by a movable felt screen for privacy. The salon also prides itself on doing everything electronically, including enabling guests to pay at their chair. “The first day we opened, we weren’t sure it was going to work but at the end of the day, it was such a natural experience,” says Whitson. “Now, people feel so comfortable and at home.” Thoughtful by Design Both Newby and Whitson knew exactly what they had in mind for the design and flow of their salon, and worked

BRANDS Eufora WEBSITE Frenchieshair.com

with architecture design firm Wolski Design Group to bring their vision to life. “We wanted it to be unique, so we went through a deep branding exercise and worked with a graphic designer for murals of hand-drawn texture and imagery representative of hair,” says Newby. “It’s really neat because it added a lens into the design and lent itself to help us decide on the colours and textures. It all worked so well together.” As for the furniture, they chose classic pieces and wooden accents that would stand the test of time. “Anything we picked, we thought about our business long-term. How is it going to wear? How is it going to look in 10 or 15 years? We

wanted it to be timeless with certain quality elements,” says Newby. “We know how people are hard on furniture over time, so that was a key consideration in each element we chose.” As for the salon’s name, Whitson says they wanted to create a space with an identity that embodies someone you want to know or have in your life. “We knew it needed to be called something and embody something, so we did a branding exercise with approximately 160 names that culminated into Frenchie’s. It’s fun to say; it’s cute, has so many elements to it, and it can mean something to everybody. You can’t say it without smiling.” salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020 65

#SalonStrong —

Never Giving Up AS WE WORK TOGETHER TO NAVIGATE THESE UNCERTAIN TIMES, IT’S BEEN INSPIRING TO SHARE YOUR STORIES OF PERSEVERANCE WITH OUR READERS. IN THIS FINAL EDITION OF OUR #SALONSTRONG SERIES, THREE HAIRSTYLISTS GET CANDID ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCES AND SHARE HOW THEY’RE STAYING POSITIVE THROUGH IT ALL.

Karl Robathan, Owner of Hair Mode Designs Ltd., North Vancouver The COVID-19 shutdown was such a blow to everybody. After 30 years of being in business, I was devastated. That same night we closed I received a phone call that my brother-in-law had a massive stroke, and later passed away. I felt like everything was coming to an end. But there is always something positive you can take from a negative situation. COVID has given me a lot more time to spend with my clients. Even though I’m working longer days, I’m less tired because I’m not pushing myself anymore. I feel more relaxed, and my clients notice the difference. Take this time to really dig deep into what you love about what you do. Hold on to the fact that this is eventually going to come to an end. Think about what you’re doing today as an investment into the future. We’re all united and in this together. Loucas Reklitis, Freelance, Ottawa

Tay Atelier, Hairstylist at Ego Salon, Brampton, Ont. In July, I was diagnosed with a brain tumour. Less than one month later I was having surgery to have it removed because of the size of it. When you get this type of diagnosis, you learn two things: You are stronger than you imagined and are loved more than you knew. I hope these words inspire you all to stay strong through adversity and know that together we can get through anything. Thank you to everyone who has reached out to me to provide their support, and to all my family and friends who have been there for me throughout it all, including my wife Koleen. I’m lucky to be on the road to recovery and I couldn’t have done it without you. Stay strong and safe.

@glassboxbarbershop We don’t follow or see the path. But we know we are on the right one.

@pascaljeremie Nice day for a walk and enjoying life, in the spectacular world of P&J.

66 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2020

@jonpaulholt The ONLY salon where you can get your hair done outside AND order a fresh baked croissant & coffee to your chair. Talk about pampered!

@jasonleehair ❤

PHOTOS: PHOTOS: KARL ROBATHAN, LOUCAS REKLITIS, TAY ATELIER, INSTAGRAM

I posted a video on my Instagram about my experience with COVID-19 to help open people’s eyes. COVID can affect you, even if you’re healthy and young. It put me out for almost three months. It was so aggressive that I had to be taken away in an ambulance because I was choking and in so much pain from a fever that lasted 15 days. What surprised me was how long it took me to bounce back. It affected me in a way that I felt like I was in a slump—almost like a depression. As hairstylists, we’re so used to having that human contact and connection, but we all need to be patient and strong together. Take all the necessary precautions to keep our industry alive so that we can get through this and continue doing what we love.

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