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All About Styling N OV E M B E R+D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1
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13 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020
November+ December 2021 26 F E AT U R E
Signature Styles
Need a refresher on how to create classic styles ahead of the holiday season? Look no further! Experts share their secrets for mastering top styling and finishing techniques.
48 C O N T E S S A 2 0 2 1 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N H A I R S T Y L I S T O F THE YEAR FR ANK CINI, TA Z H A I R C O . , T O RO N T O
“Finishing with a blowout or styling tools makes you feel good about your work. It’s like the salt for any dish. You can cook a meal, but without the salt or seasoning, it isn’t the same.” — AUDREY ADRINÉ PETROSYAN, FORMER SALON DIRECTOR, TONI&GUY
31 F E AT U R E
Battle of the Blowout
With normalcy slowly returning to salons, offering an elevated guest experience is more important than ever. Find out why increasing your styling and finishing services might be the answer.
35 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
Mark Leeson Artistic Team; Charlene Fernandez; Marc Antoni Art Team; Evie Johnson; Angelo Seminara; Frank Cini; Karina Brasseur
54 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Katrina Lapierre
Discover how this selfproclaimed “hair-obsessed” stylist became a 2021 Contessa finalist with her first entry!
55 CONTE SSA 2022
The Contessa 2022 Finalists!
ON THE COVER: HAIR: MARK LEESON ARTISTIC TEAM FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL, MAKEUP: CLARE READ, WARDROBE STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 5
8
Editor’s Letter
10
Publisher’s Note
12 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Stay connected with us online so you’ll never miss out on industry news, event recaps, styling how-tos, stunning collections, expanded stories, Contessa updates and more!
38 2 0 2 1 A H I A C R E AT I V E I N D I V I D UA L STYLIST OF THE YEAR CHARLENE FER NA NDEZ , AU S T R A L I A
13 W H AT ’ S N E W
Hairlines
The colder months usually call for a change in beauty routines to maintain healthy hair and nails. Check out the latest launches for care, colour and styling—plus, nail inspo and tools to ring in the holiday season.
56 P RO F I L E
Doing It With Style
Learn more about celebrity hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons’ claim to fame, and what it’s like working with a host of celebrities and models, including the Kardashians!
66 SA LON SOCI A L
As we approach the season of giving, find out how salon owners are managing their tips—plus, advice for making changes to your business.
We’ve rounded up a few of our favourite hairstyles from social media to help you elevate your clients’ looks this season.
INTER IORS
Spring Fling
6 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
Events + Scoop
BUSINESS
60
EV IE JOHNSON, EV IE JOHNSON’S H A IR SOLUTIONS , M A RY L A N D , U . S .
W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
58 Gratuity Goals
42
65
In need of a colourful getaway to temporarily escape the cold? Check out this 3,000-square-foot salon, featuring an open concept and floral design that looks and feels like paradise!
Sassy Styles
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COLOR mask FRESH
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To maintain or transform your color And leave your hair feeling moisturized and smooth > Fades true to tone > Free of animal-derived ingredients ©2021 The Wella Corporation
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Editor’s Letter —
YOUR TRUSTED SALON PARTNER FOR THE HIGHEST QUALITY, ETHICALLY SOURCED HAIR EXTENSIONS
We all know how hectic this time of year can be for many businesses. And in light of last year’s extended lockdowns, the anticipated busyness of this holiday season will likely be embraced with open arms. With that said, it’s important not to cut corners all for the sake of saving time or money. After months of do-it-yourself colour and trims, many clients are looking for ways to look and feel like the best versions of themselves again with an in-salon experience that cannot be found elsewhere. While the growth of underground salons and athome services may be causing some to feel uncertain about the future of traditional salons, rest easy in knowing that many in-salon services just cannot be replicated. Case in point: A luxurious treatment that’s followed by a fabulous blowout. It’s one of the reasons why I checked in with finishing experts for Battle of the Blowout (pg. 31) for their take on the current state (and future) of finishing services. While you may not have noticed an uptick in these types of services yet—keep in mind that many people are continuing to work from home and haven’t started filling their social calendar—that doesn’t mean you won’t. Hair services are bound to be back in full force soon, so why not brush up on your skills in the meantime? Signature Styles (pg. 26) offers insights on how to achieve many of the most requested editorial and bridal hair looks. And in case you’re looking for more hair inspiration, make sure to check out our list of Contessa 2022 finalists (pg. 55) and their amazing collections online at salonmagazine.ca/contessa. Sending a big congratulations and thank-you for continuing to inspire and uplift our industry!
HAND TIED • FLAT WEFTS • KERATIN TIPS • TAPE-INS • CLIP-INS www.philocalyhair.com • @philocalyhair Receive 10% off your first extension order upon approval of a Philocaly pro account 8 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief
PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO
Putting in the Work
ULTIMATE HAIR REPAIR— INSTANTLY
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Start with one service at your shampoo bowl. Then, recommend regular maintenance at home. Strengthening keratin, protective vitamins and hydrating oils do all the work. You take all the credit!
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THE ULTIMATE INSURANCE FOR YOUR PROFESSIONAL SERVICES To get the full hair-repair story, find the distributor near you or learn more about Biotop Professional’s products and education, reach us at customercare@biotopworld.com and visit us on Instagram and Facebook @biotop.professional
Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 30, ISSUE 9 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca
Publisher’s Note —
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Barbara Burrows
GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca
’Tis the Season to Sell, Sell, Sell!
Laura Dunphy Publisher
10 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Did you know that the 2020 holiday retail season had higher sales than anticipated? Even in the middle of a global pandemic, people were ready and willing to spend! Another fun fact: On average, the holiday season in Canada can represent as much as 35 per cent of the year’s total salon sales volume. With many retail experts predicting another stellar year-end due to Canadians currently having a record amount of disposable income—not to mention a pent-up desire to spend!—this is the season to ensure that you’re locked and loaded! Thankfully, there are plenty of haircare and beauty categories to choose from that will help you ensure you’re covering your clients’ needs. From high-end luxury haircare and sustainable beauty items to men’s grooming, styling tools, nail products and skincare, you’re literally spoiled for choice! So how can you make big sales happen? Meet with your staff before the season begins and get them into the selling frame of mind. Also feature product mixes that will appeal to a wide variety of clients, and make sure that your displays are beautifully and thoughtfully arranged to attract shoppers. Speaking of selling, if you aren’t fully onboard the e-commerce train, now is the time! Not only has it been a game-changer for many salons during the pandemic, it’s an easy way to add a layer of convenience to your clients’ lives, enabling them to order what they want, when they want. The time to capitalize on retail bounty is now! Finally, while the start of November marks the beginning of the holiday season, it also means it’s time for the Contessas! Why not start your celebration by hosting a Contessa watch party? Put on your gala gear and join us virtually on November 7th to cheer on your fellow Canadian beauty pros. It’s the event of the year and you won’t want to miss it!
OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca
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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.
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PRODUC T GUIDE
spg. salonmagazine.c a Search by product category or keyword. Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors.
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Find the inspiration to get your creative juices flowing, with our archive of collections from around the world. Plus, see the Contessa 2022 finalist collections!
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It’s Almost Here! We’re so close to the biggest night in Canadian professional beauty! Visit our website to learn more about our virtual/hybrid gala and how you can tune into the Contessa Awards live.
Holiday Hair
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‘Tis the season! Get your clients ready for the holidays with our latest how-tos, with step-bystep details on how to achieve the trendiest looks of the season.
The Big Winner! We’ve crowned the winner of our “So You Think You Can Colour’’ contest, sponsored by Goldwell! Congratulations to Zoe Verheuvel from Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar in New Glasgow, N.S., on the win! Check out our website to read more on what inspired this winning look.
Hot Off the Press Have you signed up for our weekly newsletter yet? What are you waiting for! Opt in to receive exclusive news, announcements and so much more.
PHOTOS: TK, BULLHORN BY SHASHANK SINGH FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
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12 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
Next-Level Creativity
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PHOTO: HAIR: RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM, SCOTLAND, MAKEUP: KIRSTEN BAILLIE, WARDROBE STYLING: DETROIT LAW, PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG
RING IN THE HOLIDAY SEASON WITH NEW PRODUCT LAUNCHES IN CARE, COLOUR, STYLING AND MORE!
For the Punk Spirit collection, the Rainbow Room International Artistic Team took inspiration directly from the runway to give this Scottish collection a luxurious, high-fashion feel. Although the looks are very luxe, they combine a funky edge with a fun spirit, and the result is glamour gone groovy. A number of haircutting techniques and intricate colour placements are showcased in this series, along with styling and finishing techniques to enhance and elevate the looks.
To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 13
So Long!
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Say good riddance to unwanted tones with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Goodbye Orange.
PU R PLE POP
Restore blonde locks with Moroccanoil’s Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner. To help your clients maintain their best blonde colour, Moroccanoil has launched a new Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner. Ideal for pairing with the brand’s Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo, the gentle conditioner works to soften and smooth hair while simultaneously offsetting and neutralizing unwanted brassiness in blonde hair, lightened brunette locks or even grey hair by depositing violet pigments to counteract brassy tones. The result? Nourished hair with increased shine and colour that’s brighter and more radiant. Infused with Moroccanoil’s ArganID technology, the colour-safe Purple Conditioner delivers the antioxidant properties of argan oil into the hair's cortex, sealing the cuticle and providing shine.
Joining the brand’s beloved Goodbye Yellow for lighter tones, this neutralizing wash is designed for darker hair bases and is a blue-green direct dye that gently cleanses hair while removing unwanted orange undertones. Not only does it help prolong luminosity between salon visits, it instantly adds cool tones after freehand lightening on darker hair bases. Made with vegan ingredients and a pH 4.5 formulation with the brand’s Integrated Bonding Technology, it’s perfect for a quick, efficient application at the shampoo basin for clients on the go. Tip: Use Goodbye Orange on your clients with hair bases from levels 4 to 7 and Goodbye Yellow on levels 8 to 10.
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Dream Team
Give hair some extra TLC this season with Biolage’s All-In-One Shampoo Scrub and All-In-One Intense Dry Shampoo. Introducing two new products to its All-In-One range—already featuring the brand’s signature All-In-One Coconut Infusion Multi-Benefit Treatment Spray—the line will now include All-In-One Shampoo Scrub. This gentle cleanser is made for all hair types and is formulated with oat to cleanse, exfoliate and gently detoxify hair. The line’s new All-In-One Intense Dry Shampoo is formulated for a high level of oil absorption, with wheat protein and rice starch, to deeply cleanse, prime and refresh strands for healthy-looking hair.
14 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, PRAVANA, DAVINES, REDKEN, BIOLAGE, MOROCCANOIL
Hairlines — NEWS
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Beautiful Beige
Hairlines — NEWS
Learn about the four new shades joining Pravana’s Chromasilk Permanent Creme hair colour family. Pravana’s silk and keratin-based Chromasilk Permanent Creme colour line is adding four indulgent beige shades—5.22 (Light Intense Beige Brown), 6.Nt2 (Dark Neutral Beige Blonde), 7.Nt2 (Neutral Beige Blonde) and 9.23 (Very Light Beige Golden Blonde)—each creamy and opulent in their own way. Considered a series of “not-so-basic” beiges, these balanced shades are easily customizable for any client’s needs, desires, or skin tones, delivering their most flattering beige. These new shades incorporate light and dark blonde hues to create dimension, and are perfect for neutralizing or balancing yellow pigments. The line’s expansion features tones that are bold and edgy with options that are more wearable and practical.
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B L OW N AWAY
Get ready to master fast and effortless blowouts with Redken’s Quick Blowout and Big Blowout. Redken’s Quick Blowout is the perfect addition to your toolkit this season. Created with a unique, flashdrying, bi-phase formula, it reduces blow-dry time while conditioning and protecting hair from heat up to 450°F—ideal for creating healthy, long-lasting holiday styles! The brand is also launching Big Blowout, which is formulated with a combination of polymers, offers heat protection up to 450°F and includes an instant volume, jelly-like formula that leaves hair noticeably shiny for the ultimate bouncy blowout.
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Treat Yourself Enhance your stock of treatments with the new Elevating Scalp Recovery Treatment and Rebalancing Cleansing Treatment from Davines. The Elevating Scalp Recovery Treatment is the newest addition to the brand’s Naturaltech Line: Elevating. The hydrating, leave-in treatment is formulated with scalp health in mind, and works to reduce irritation, stress or redness on the scalp. In addition, Davines’ Rebalancing Cleansing Treatment is the natural solution for clients dealing with excessively oily hair and scalp, providing a deep clean while simultaneously offering protection from external factors. Remember: Scalp care is a form of self-care!
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 15
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Transport your clients’ senses with Oribe’s new trio of genderneutral scents: Côte d’Azur, Valley of Flowers and Desertland.
➣ T R I P L E T H R E AT
Introducing Artègo’s new innovative colouring system: Beauty Fusion Phyto Tech Colour. Artègo’s Beauty Fusion is a multifunctional and protective, high-performing colour suited to a wide range of hair textures. Offering all salon colour services in just one product—Gloss (toneon-tone colour), Demi Plus (demi-permanent colour) and Full (permanent colour)—not only does the system allow you to perform three different services but its unique formula allows for more efficient penetration of ingredients inside the hair fibre. Its formula is also 98 per cent biodegradable and its Phyto-Tech formulation (found in every Beauty Fusion shade!) is rich in organic ingredients and natural oils. Consider it your go-to for creating intense brunettes, vivid reds and glossy blondes this season!
16 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
B E W I T C H I N G B RU N E T T E S
Level up your dark-haired clients with @Guy_Tang and #mydentity’s Midnight Collection. We’ve always been told that blondes have more fun but it’s high time that brunettes joined in on the excitement! Created with darkerhaired clients in mind, #mydentity’s Midnight Collection consists of five new shades to bring creativity—and choice—to lower level tones. The line consists of both demi-permanent (Midnight Fantasy 5, Midnight Violet 3) and permanent shade options (Midnight Fantasy 5, Midnight Love 4 and 6) that deposit uniquely rich, ruby and fuchsia reflections onto hair. Now, colourists have even more options and more room for creativity on lower-level tones, thanks to these gorgeous new pre-blended shades.
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): ORIBE, #MYDENTITY, DAVINES, KÉRASTASE, AMIKA, OLAPLEX, ARTEGO, OPEN BOX BY KMG DESIGN FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
Oribe may be known for its highperformance, luxury haircare but it’s just as celebrated for its signature scent: Côte d’Azur. The brand’s mesmerizing fragrance runs throughout their product portfolio and was even created into an eau de parfum in 2014! Due to its popularity and the brand wanting to expand their “lifestyle” collection, Oribe has added two additional fragrances to their roster: Valley of Flowers and Desertland. While Côte d’Azur is described as seductive, embodying the classic glamour and heat of the French Riviera with notes of citrusy Calabrian bergamot and white butterfly jasmine, Valley of Flowers is a modern interpretation of a lush floral scent. Consisting of a blend of Bulgarian rose, peony petals and warm amber, the brand’s floral scent “immerses the wearer in a fragrant field of fresh blooms.” Desertland, which was inspired by Marfa, Texas, captures the “sandy heat of the day and cool vastness of the still night,” with notes of juniper berry, desert wildflowers and Texas cedarwood. And if the luxurious scents aren’t enough to impress clients, the fragrance bottles are inspired by post-modernist art and architecture—perfect for displaying on your station, sending home with clients or for gifting this season!
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Hairlines — NEWS
Heaven Scent
Back by popular demand, our master of ceremonies Bill Rowley will once again be taking the virtual stage to host the 33rd annual Contessa Awards! Known for his witty charm, Rowley always has a trick or two up his sleeve, and you won’t want to miss what he has in store this year.
Red Carpet Realness We’re so excited to announce that Contessa award-winning hairstylist Palma N’Sheluvzit will be our special red-carpet guest host this year! Make sure to dress up, check your wifi connection and get ready for your close-up!
Hairlines — CONTESSA 2022
Contessa Countdown!
Host with the Most
Nadsat Hair-volution
Returning for an unprecedented third year, British powerhouse D&J Ambrose will be gracing us with another show-stopping presentation, titled Nadsat. Shot on the streets of London, U.K., the award-winning team led by Darren Ambrose is sure to wow us with their unbelievable creativity, innovation and style. With a purposeful nod to the ’90s, Ambrose combines retro influences with sustainability for modern, expressive looks.
Get ready for a Montreal takeover like you’ve never seen! Led by Matrix Canada’s artistic director, Rodrigo Araneda, the team will be taking over the streets of Montreal and showcasing a spectacular runway show celebrating individuality and diversity.
Attention All Finalists! Did you make the cut? Check your mailbox as you’ll be receiving a special delivery, courtesy of our Contessa 2022 sponsors! Make sure to share your unboxing videos and photos with us, using the hashtags #Contessa2022 and #ContessaAwards, for a chance to be featured on our Instagram!
Colour Commentary Salon owners, educators and partners Julio Rodriguez and Derrick Rutherford will be our special guest commentators during the awards gala, sharing their delightful insights and banter with us all. And get ready because when it comes to these two, there’s no holding back!
November 7, 2021 Cocktail party: 7:30pm EST Gala: 8:30pm EST Don’t forget to visit salonmagazine.ca/contessa for all the details on how to register and watch our hybrid Contessa gala from the comfort of your home (or salon!).
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 17
Hairlines — NAILS
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
1
WINE O’CLOCK
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Artistic Nail Design Glare If You Dare is an irresistible maroon pearl from The Big Bang collection that's sure to make a statement.
CND Clients won’t have to kiss and tell with Signature Lipstick, a deep, dramatic red from the Party Ready collection. 4
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Gelish Be the star of the show with It’s Showtime, the berry crème shade from the Sing 2 collection.
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“Sleigh” any holiday event this season with a myriad of nail inspiration from your favourite celebrities. 1 Singer Grace Carter rocks multitone brown and beige nails to welcome the cooler months ahead. 2 Actress Sophia Bush’s simple yet elegant pink nails with symmetrical red dots are perfect for elevating any holiday look. 3 Celebrity nail artist Tom Bachik gave actress Selena Gomez a shiny burgundy manicure that’s cozy enough for fall yet chic enough for a holiday gala. 4 TikTok star Addison Rae dazzles in a party-ready nude manicure featuring dark, shimmery and linear detailing. 5 Black and nude prove to be a perfect pair when it comes to singer Halsey’s oval-shaped mani moment.
18 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
6 British singer-songwriter Mimi Webb took French tips to a new level, covering her nails in 3D jewels! 7 Actress Amandla Stenberg went asymmetric by not only sporting a variety of black and gold designs, but also various lengths. 8 These white nails with thin black tips, as seen on actress Anya Taylor Joy, ooze style. 9 Actress and model Emily Ratajkowski sure knows how to make a statement, and her extra-long talons coated in silver rhinestones along the edges are no exception.
ORLY Put a luxurious spin on a staple shade with This Took a Tourmaline, a deep plum shimmer from the Bejeweled collection.
OPI OPI to Party is the Celebration Collection’s rich, burgundy crème that will surely make you the life of the party.
PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, CND, GELISH, ORLY, OPI
Holly Days
TAKING HOME THE WIN MEET THE WINNER OF REDKEN’S CANADA’S NEXT TOP STYLIST CONTEST: JASMINE BISHOP!
Ever since she was a child, Jasmine Bishop, a Redken artist and educator and balayage expert at Urban Salon in St. John’s, Nfld., has been passionate about the beauty industry. She was first introduced to the salon environment when she started shampooing hair while in high school and absolutely fell in love with the atmosphere—and has been in love with doing hair ever since. “Hair is a form of identity, expression and individuality,” says Bishop. “Through hair, we show the world who we are and what we represent as individuals. I’ve been with clients during their best moments and through their darkest hours but at the end of the day, the way we make our guests feel beautiful and powerful is priceless.” Although competing in hair competitions hasn’t necessarily been in Bishop’s wheelhouse, she loves to be creative and to continue learning and growing in her craft. When she heard about Redken’s first ever Next Top Stylist contest—where Redken artists submitted a photo or video of their best finished look for a chance to be named “Canada’s Next Top Stylist,” she knew it would require stepping out of her comfort zone, and decided it was time to take the leap. “I wanted to create a tutorial that was unique yet easy to do,” she says. “My intention was to create a look that would be easy to follow so other stylists could reuse and recreate the steps I used and put their own artistic spin on it.” “My inspiration for the look was an Atlantic sunset,” she adds. My work has always been heavily influenced by nature and its simplicity.” Bishop prepped her model’s hair with Redken
“IT’S SO REWARDING TO EXPRESS WORK THROUGH ART WHILE SIMULTANEOUSLY UTILIZING SCIENCE ON A DAY-TO-DAY BASIS.”
Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam to add texture, Redken Dry Shampoo Paste 05 to mold the style in place, Redken Shine Flash for added shine and finished the look off with Redken Triple Take 32 Extreme High-Hold Hairspray. “For my entry, I chose my all-time favourite colour line, Redken Shades EQ Gloss, for the colours because it’s the number one acidic demi-permanent hair colour that acts like a conditioner,” says Bishop. “It leaves the hair in incredible condition, making it much easier to style because of its glossy, smooth finish.” Since most of Bishop’s work is inspired by nature, it makes sense that some of her favourite styles to create are natural, lived-in looks. She also says she loves braiding, as she feels it’s a therapeutic experience, so she couldn’t help but incorporate braids into her entry—which certainly paid off. “I spent weeks working on my final look and whether I placed first or last, just entering at all was a win for me,” says Bishop. “Becoming Canada’s Next Top Stylist is a dream come true—this competition was filled with such talented stylists with incredible work, and I was just honoured to be part of such a magnificent group!” “This competition has definitely inspired me to broaden my horizon and possibly enter future competitions,” she adds. “I’m grateful to Redken for this contest—I love that it’s not only a brand but a community. Redken’s goal is to educate and inspire stylists to learn, earn and live best. It’s a network of like-minded artists who are here to help each other and lift each other up and I feel so fortunate to be a part of it.”
Are you Canada’s Next Top Stylist? Stay tuned in 2022!
S P O N S O R E D BY
Barbie and L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Limited-Edition Steampod L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has collaborated with Barbie to transform the brand’s best-selling Steampod 3.0 into the ultimate girly styling tool. With an integrated water tank, builtin comb and rotative cord, the Steampod allows you to create straight looks, curls or waves powered by steam, for faster, smoother results with less damage (compared to traditional hot styling tools). The Barbie x Steampod features a signature pink design, including a thermoresistant pink case for easy, on-the-go portability.
Gadget Gifts WHO WOULDN’T LOVE A SHINY NEW CUTTING OR STYLING TOOL THIS SEASON? WE’VE ROUNDED UP A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITES THAT ARE SURE TO ADD A FESTIVE FLAIR TO YOUR SERVICES.
ghd’s beloved styling tools just got a makeover for the holiday season. Now available in warm pewter with deep pewter metallic accents, each tool includes a luxurious emerald-green vanity case (or dust bag) for easy storage. The Helios Hair Dryer is 1875 watts and features a long-lasting brushless motor with 75 mph airflow for faster results. It’s powered with Aeroprecis technology for intuitive styling and precise control, includes power and temperature controls (and cool shot button), and features a lightweight, ergonomic design. Plus, it includes acoustic system technology for low sound levels! Both the Platinum+ Styler and Gold Styler feature floating plates that maintain an optimal styling temperature of 365°F and automatic sleep mode (after 30 minutes). Best of all, they’re universal voltage so they can be used anywhere in the world! Platinum+ Styler —
Gold Styler —
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Dual-zone technology with two new generation heat sensors to control heat from root to tip Sleek, round barrel design for snag-free styling
Plates feature infinity sensors that monitor heat 250-times per second Ultra-zone with predictive technology for even heat across each plate for consistent results in one stroke
BaBylissPRO FX3 Collection Power, design and cutting performance combine in the latest Ferrari-powered collection from BaBylissPRO. The clipper and trimmer feature an advanced high-torque brushless motor, lithium polymer battery with four-stage LED indicator, zero gap-able and ultra-thin DLC/Titanium fade blade. Their ultra-sleek, ergonomic design and unique embedded carbon texture grip surface with hanging hook and strap give each tool a next-level cool factor. The new High Torque Foil Shaver features a high-speed rotary motor, lithum-ion battery and hypoallergenic gold colour titanium foils.
Andis GTX-EXO Cordless Trimmer Whether you’re perfecting a fade or trim this season, the new GTX-EXO Cordless Trimmer by Andis is sure to be your new go-to. Featuring a highspeed rotary motor that delivers 7,200 strokes per minute, the trimmer includes a lithium battery for more than 100 minutes of run-time on a single charge. It includes a deep-tooth GTX-Z blade that can be zero-gapped for ultra-close results, is coated with a custom gold corrosion-resistant finish and powered with Constant Speed Technology for superior blade performance on all hair types.
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FX3 High Torque Foil Shaver — — — —
10,000 RPM Three-hour run time Auto shut-off cover Offset double foil system
FX3 High Torque Clipper — — — —
Two-speed (6,000RPM/ 7,000RPM) Five-hour run time Five detent locking quick taper No rub, zero-gap guards (eight included)
FX3 High Torque Trimmer — — —
7,200 RPM Three-hour run time Increased blade angle with 360-degree view
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL GHD, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, ANDIS
Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS
ghd Limited-Edition Warm Pewter Helios Hair Dryer, Platinum + Styler and Gold Styler
A Purple Indulgence for Every Blonde Learn more about the new Moroccanoil Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner and how it’s beneficial for a wide range of clients. Just as blonde clients are constantly seeking new ways to enhance, maintain and extend their colour, stylists and colourists are always searching for ways to offer clients quick and effective methods in the salon. Moroccanoil’s new Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner is the solution many have been waiting for! In combination with the brand's best-selling Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo, it's designed to restore your clients’ blonde colour to its intended tone by depositing violet pigments onto the hair to counteract unwanted yellow, brassy and orange undertones in blondes and highlights, as well as grey and silver hair. While it’s a great product to send home with clients to maintain their salon-fresh colour, Moroccanoil’s artistic director Kevin Hughes says it can easily be incorporated into the salon menu. “The Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner can be an add-on treatment during the colour process or even prior to a haircut or blow-out service,” he says. “Stylists can use it at the sink before a haircut to whisk away any brassy tones from their client’s hair. It will instantly brighten their blonde and when they see the results, they’ll be asking to take a bottle home with them!” Many blonde clients are longing for that fresh-from-the-salon appearance days (and weeks) after they’ve left the salon. While nothing could replace their visit to their trusty colourist, Moroccanoil’s Purple Conditioner could help them come close— at-home. “Our clients are only with us for a limited time and toners can fade, or the environment can have an effect on blonde hair,” says Hughes. “So the fact that clients can use this at home to maintain their blonde is so important and it also makes us, as stylists, look good.”
The launch of the Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner is the perfect complement to the brand’s award-winning Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo, to help all lighter-haired clients maintain their colour. “As a stylist or colourist, it’s important to have all the tools that can help our clients’ hair look its best every day,” says Hughes. “Having the Blonde Perfecting Purple Conditioner to complement the line’s Purple Shampoo adds another layer to keeping yellow and brassy tones at bay.” “Don’t forget about your grey and silverhaired clients,” he adds. “For both men and women, it’s very important to keep that grey or silver light and bright. No one wants to see yellow in their grey tones!” While the Conditioner works hard to offset unwanted tones, it also gently smooths, softens and deeply nourishes hair, improves manageability and imparts unbeatable shine. Along with the violet pigments, it’s formulated with the brand’s signature ArganID™ technology and an amino acid blend. “The proprietary Moroccanoil ArganID™ technology delivers the antioxidant powers of argan oil deep into the cortex, helping to seal the cuticle layer for even greater benefits, while offsetting any brassiness in the hair,” says Hughes. “The lightweight formula leaves hair feeling nourished and
helps detangle those blonde strands. When you’re able to glide through tangles, it helps keep the hair as healthy as possible and reduce frizz.” As Hughes is currently rocking blonde hair himself, he knows firsthand the importance of keeping hair healthy and using Moroccanoil products to help maintain his colour. “I’m a natural ginger, so I get those unwanted undertones very easily,” he says. “I use the Purple Shampoo and Conditioner every time I wash my hair and they keep my hair that perfect, creamy blonde shade that I love. When used properly and not overused, purple conditioners are a fantastic tool to help stylists keep their clients looking their absolute best.”
S P O N SO R E D BY M O RO CC A N O I L
WE SPOKE WITH HAIRSTYLING EXPERTS TO GET THE RUNDOWN ON WAYS TO CUT AND STYLE MEN’S AND SHORT HAIR WITH A PART.
The Art of the Part For some, a part may seem like the most insignificant component of a hairstyle. For many hairstylists, however, that’s far from the case, as a part can help enhance certain features, distract from the shape of the head, and do so much more. “Parts have come and gone—and changed—in male hair and fashion over the past 100 years,” says Ben Barkworth, owner of JUSTB Salon in Toronto. “Over the past 10 years, barbers and hairstylists have used fades and parts to enhance their male clients’ appearances. When cutting short hair, we tailor the hair around the face shape to enhance the structure and showcase the strongest features of our clients.”
Cutting Short Hair
While consultations are important for all hair lengths, according to Barkworth, they’re even more critical when cutting shorter hair. “My first question to my client is ‘what is your styling routine?’” he says, “followed by ‘do you wash and wear or do you spend a few minutes styling your hair?’ Then, I ask about lifestyle—if they’re on Zoom meetings all day or if they go to the gym often. Lastly, I ask about products and styling tools. With these answers, I can determine which bespoke haircut and style I can give my short-haired client.” Side Part When cutting hair with a side part, Barkworth says it’s important to establish where the part will work best with the hairline and recession point. “You want to position the part so that it accents the strength in the face shape, but it should never pass the centre of the eyebrow on either side,” he says. “A side part can add height and volume to the structure of a haircut and face shape. On the short side of the part, I recommend graduating the cut and squaring it off, not following the head shape. This will build up weight and make the haircut more masculine.” “As a general guideline, if a client always styles their hair on the side, I’ll start by sectioning the hair with a horseshoe section—working with horizontal sections to build a bit of weight and keep more of a square shape,” adds Yanick Chartrand-Kravitz, owner of Les Brossés hair salon in Montreal. “This can make for a really strong look.”
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PRO TIP CHARTRANDKRAVITZ ADVISES AGAINST FADING SUPER HIGH AND INSTEAD SUGGESTS BUILDING SOME WEIGHT ON THE CORNERS OF THE HEAD (DEPENDING ON THE SHAPE OF THE HEAD/FACE). HE SAYS THEN YOU CAN REFINE, THIN AND TEXTURIZE THE AREA AND PERSONALIZE IT SO IT MAKES A NICE TRANSITION FROM THE SIDE TO THE TOP. HE WARNS TO BE CAREFUL OF COWLICKS WHEN CUTTING THROUGH THEM, AND TO USE THE NATURAL FALL OF THE HAIR AS A GUIDELINE, WITH LITTLE TO NO TENSION.
TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTOS: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: CHRISTIAN RÍOS, CHRISTIAN RÍOS SALON, SPAIN, MAKEUP: NACHO SANZ, PHOTOS: ESTEBAN ROCA; HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: BEN BARKWORTH, JUSTB SALON, TORONTO, MAKEUP: TAYLOR CHOUSKY, PHOTO: SCOTT COOPER
Hairlines — MENS
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Styling Short Hair
According to Chartrand-Kravitz, clients who wear shorter hairstyles tend to prefer looks that are easy to style. While he aims to make things simple for his clients’ at-home care, he always recommends two styling products for longevity. “When it comes to styling, I suggest not overthinking,” says Barkworth. “I recommend to every male client to not be afraid of using a blow-dryer, taking a few minutes to style their hair and using one or two products to help assist in completing their look.”
PRO TIP ACCORDING TO BARKWORTH, THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO ANALYZE WHEN STYLING SHORT/ MEN’S HAIR IS THE HAIRLINE AND GROWTH PATTERNS. FOR EXAMPLE, YOU WOULDN’T WANT TO GIVE A HARD SIDE PART TO A CLIENT WITH A RECEDING HAIRLINE OR GIVE A CENTRE PART TO A CLIENT THAT HAS A DEEP WIDOW'S PEAK.
Middle Part According to Chartrand-Kravitz, middle parts are back in style (especially with the younger generations) so it’s important to be comfortable with the execution. “It’s important to analyze the natural fall of the hair, the shape of the head and of the face, the natural volume of the hair and potential tricky areas such as cowlicks, recession or thinning hair,” he says. “If I plan to style it [with a middle part] after cutting, I keep more length on top so the hair sits at least past the crown area.” When cutting short hair with a middle part, Barkworth notes that precision and disconnection are important. “My advice is to section out from one recession point to another in a ‘U’ shape, and start with creating an undercut with a clipper or using scissor-over-comb, making sure not to cut past the occipital bone and the round of the head in the side sections,” he says. “On the upper section, divide the section into two in the middle creating the centre part and use a horizontal guide to create a stationary guide on either side. I like to use the cheekbone as a point of reference; they essentially create my stationary guide.” No Part When it comes to cutting hair with no part, Chartrand-Kravitz suggests that you make sure your client is comfortable and knows what they want because “we always tend to put our hair subconsciously on one side or the other.” “I personally prefer styles worn more towards the face and when I plan this, the top section will be cut with point cutting to bring out maximum texture,” he says. “When cutting short hair with no part, it’s important to know what your desired finished look is,” adds Barkworth. “Having no part can create volume, movement, weight and/or texture.”
Side Part When working with a side part, Barkworth suggests blow-drying the short side with zero elevation at low heat. On the heavier side, he recommends creating volume and movement with product. To get more control over the look you’re trying to achieve, Chartrand-Kravitz suggests working with product and recommends not being afraid to add it to wet hair before styling. “You can then finish with a styling product on dry hair to bring out either shine, texture or whatever your client’s goal is,” he says. Middle Part A clean, super straight middle part can often be a strong look that makes a statement for men and shorter hair. To execute a clean part, Chartrand-Kravitz recommends doing it on wet hair after applying a styling product such as a strong hold gel with shine for an editorial look or a styling cream for a more natural look. Since Barkworth says styling short hair with a middle part is about smoothness and not volume, he recommends using a blow-dryer and Denman brush to create a smooth, soft finish. No Part Chartrand-Kravitz says he typically follows the same pattern of his cutting sections while drying the hair so “the hair sits where it’s supposed to.” “Styling with no part is about movement, volume, disconnection and individuality,” notes Barkworth. “This can range from very short hair to a man bun. With short hair, I like to add texture with point cutting and channel cutting [to add texture]. This is your opportunity to create your own flair and signature on a short cut, but do not overtexturize! Create the shape, remove the weight and customize the texture to the client’s hair density and style.”
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WITH REDS MAKING A COMEBACK, WE CHECKED IN WITH THE EXPERTS FOR TIPS ON HOW TO HELP CLIENTS FIND THEIR PERFECT SHADE, AND HOW TO MAKE REDS WEARABLE IN ANY SEASON.
Red Alert While we’ve grown accustomed to clients choosing to go lighter with hair colour in summer and darker in winter, red can be a surprisingly versatile shade that’s ideal for rocking all year long. “Red is one of the coolest sections of the palette that we get to work with because there’s something for everyone,” says Chelsea Sutherland, Contessa 2021 Atlantic Hairstylist of the Year and owner of Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar in New Glasgow, N.S. “For people who are typically blonde or brunette, there’s the biggest variation within the red world— from sheer to super saturated and vibrant, there are colours that can work for anyone.” Getting Started For some colourists (and clients), the idea of red hair might seem intimidating. However, it can be a lot easier to achieve than you may think. “Sometimes we get bogged down in trying to interpret trends very literally,” says Sutherland. “We’re still seeing a lot of lived-in hair, even with this red trend. We’re seeing a lot of powdery, diffused tones. Also, soft, peachy, iridescent golden and lighter tones that can still translate and be appealing to a typical blonde client all the way through to rich and saturated mahogany tones that would be more appealing to brunettes.” “Being a redhead doesn’t have to mean the shade is fiery red,” adds Romie AllardPigeon, a hairstylist at Apart Studio in Montreal and a member of Schwarzkopf Professional’s #SKPCanSquad. “Sometimes you need to embrace more natural tones. People have been embracing their natural colour more than ever this year, so we need to continue with this vibe. For example, natural copper and darker reds are usually a must
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for brunettes. For blondes, I always go with a little touch of papaya that’s closer to a strawberry blonde.” The Consultation While a consultation is important for all clients, it’s even more critical when a client is considering a major colour change, or if they want to try out a new trend. “During the consultation, you’ll want to discuss your client’s future hair colour goals,” recommends Sutherland. “How deep of a commitment are they looking at? You also want to ask about the experience they want—are they looking for a dramatic result or something more subtle?” “You need to know if they only want to try it, or if it’s something they want to embrace, since it will totally make a difference in how you’re going to create
the red,” says Allard-Pigeon. “You need to know if the project is going to evolve, or if the client only wants to be red for a few months.” Sutherland suggests looking at your client’s natural undertones in their skin, lips and eye colour for guidance on narrowing down the shades. However, she says it’s all about striking a balance between suitability and personal preference. “Some people might be able to rock a strawberry blonde but they may be opposed to any warmth,” she says. “Then, you can get into dimensional work, and they might be more comfortable with a rosy, peachy hue rather than the standard coppery strawberry blonde. Meet in the middle so it’s something that they’re still comfortable with.”
PRODUCT GO-TOS
Goldwell Elumen This oxidative permanent colour line has a wide range of options from pastel to natural to vibrant that deliver long-lasting results and shine while repairing hair from the inside out.
Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vibrance A demi-permanent colour line for tone-ontone colouration and glossing that offers vibrant results lasting up to 25 shampoos.
Goldwell @Pure Pigments These direct dye additives can be used with the brand’s oxidative colour options for customizable results that boost colour intensity by up to three times. They also offer more shine and overall fade resistance.
Schwarzkopf Professional tbh – true beautiful honest This permanent colour line enhances the hair’s natural highs and lows for soft, powdery, natural-looking results.
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS: GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL; HAIR: JESÚS DE PAULA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: XENIA TIÓ, WARDROBE STYLING: ARTURO ARGÜELLES, PHOTO: DANNIEL ROJAS
Hairlines — COLOUR
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“STYLISTS AND CLIENTS DON’T ALWAYS SPEAK THE SAME LANGUAGE, SO PHOTOS ARE THE PERFECT WAY TO MAKE SURE WE’RE VISUALIZING THE SAME THING AND HAVE THE SAME EXPECTATIONS. I CAN SEE WHAT THEY VIBE WITH AND WHAT SPEAKS TO THEM, AND THEN WE CUSTOMIZE IT.” — CHELSEA SUTHERLAND, OWNER OF CHELSEA LAINE SALON AND COLOUR BAR IN NEW GLASGOW, N.S.
PRO TIP BOTH SUTHERLAND AND ALLARD-PIGEON RECOMMEND ASKING CLIENTS TO BRING IN PHOTOS OF THEIR HAIR INSPIRATION, BUT ALSO ADVISE TO LOOK FOR PHOTOS OF PEOPLE WITH THE SAME EYE COLOUR AND SKIN TONE AS YOUR CLIENT TO MAKE SURE YOU’RE BOTH ON THE SAME PAGE ABOUT THE END RESULT.
Taking the Plunge While you may feel the need to proceed with caution when working with red tones, being too careful can also have its pitfalls. “It can be equally disappointing for a client if they get too much, just as it is if they don’t get enough,” warns Sutherland. “If we’re too cautious because we’re nervous of the change, we’re kind of cheating them out of this big impact that they might be looking for. I often ask that in the consultation: ‘What would be more disappointing: If it’s too red or not red enough?’ It helps clarify and find out where they’re at and and how hungry they are to really experience being a redhead.” Whether a client is opting for a more muted or vibrant result, discussing how long they need to wait between appointments to maintain their colour is just as crucial as the types of products they should use, since both can impact their long-term hair colour goals. “If they want to be an icy blonde in the summer, we won’t necessarily make them a raspberry merlot unless that’s
what they want and they understand the sacrifice,” says Sutherland. “Consent and consultation prior to any red service are non-negotiable.” “Red hair always fades very fast, so you need to find the perfect balance with the personality of your client and how they handle their haircare,” says Allard-Pigeon, who prefers semi- or demi-permanent options for clients who like to change their hair colour frequently, and permanent for those who want to keep their red colour for at least a year. “I really like doing redheads with glossing and playing with different shades. If a client asks for red and I know she washes her hair every day, I’ll go for a more pigmented red that will last.” “For red hair with deepness in it, I usually suggest creating a lighter base with a balayage or highlights first to put some light to the natural colour, and after I work with gloss,” she adds. “I like to see my client first to break the base with a balayage or highlights, and after six to eight weeks they come back in just a gloss. Then I redo the balayage or the highlights every four months.”
PRO TIP WHILE COLOUR PROTECTION SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER ARE A MUST, SO ARE HEAT PROTECTION PRODUCTS (FOR WET AND DRY HAIR) SINCE HEAT STYLING CAN NOT ONLY CAUSE DAMAGE—IT CAN ALSO STRIP COLOUR AND RESULT IN DULLER HAIR.
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SIGNATURE STYLES With the holiday season upon us, we asked industry experts and event hair specialists to share their tips and tricks for mastering top hairstyling and finishing techniques. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF
During holiday and event season, there are no better skills to have in your arsenal than superior styling and finishing techniques. From finger waves to updos to beach waves, sometimes classic styles are, well, classic. But remember: putting your own spin on a look is important, as is listening to your clients’ wants and needs to ensure that you’re giving them an end result that’s suitable for them. “The perfect creation is a combination of the style the client wants and one that the stylist thinks will look best on her,” says Chris Wood, senior principal stylist at Radford Studio in Toronto. “It’s the perfect compromise, especially for bridal and event hair. When it’s the client’s special day, she should look and feel like the best version of herself—and since these moments are captured from all angles, styling, polishing and finishing are even more crucial.”
1. Styling Secrets
When crafting bridal, event and holiday hair, the pressure is on! Thankfully, having a plan, staying calm and prepping the hair are a few ways to help relieve some of the stress. “When hair is going up, stylists tend to panic. My advice is to stop overthinking it and enjoy it! The clients
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can smell fear and your energy will rub off on them,” says Martin Hillier, co-owner of The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver. “If you put hair up wrong, take it down, especially if you haven’t overloaded it with product— which you shouldn’t have because you should always be gradually building it up.
Tweak it, and have a plan for where you’re going. Look at the photos your client brought in, analyze the style they’re trying to achieve and then step forward with the look, gradually building it up. Take fear out of the equation and it’ll be a much more enjoyable experience for you and your client.”
PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, SOCIAL MEDIA BY MADE X MADE FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, HAIR: KRYSIA WEST, PERFECTLY POSH HAIR, U.K., MAKEUP: PJ MAXWELL, WARDROBE STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: TONY LE BRITTON
According to Marlo Steenman, artistic director for Oriac and Artego Canada, there are a few things to keep in mind when styling to make the process a little easier. “It’s all about prepping the hair,” she says. “It’s [legendary hairstylist and educator] Martin Parsons’s technique to make sure the edges around the hairline are clean and really blown out first, and not leaving this step to the end when the hair is settled. Ensuring the hairline is really taken care of—that’s what sets apart a polished look from something that looks messier. Even with effortless styles, you still have to have a structure to them. Then, I like to add a little bit of a bend in the hair. This allows it to move a bit for you—hair sort of dances when you put it up. The sleeker the look is, the more you need that bend to allow the hair to move.”
2. Finger Waves
When creating finger waves, the elegant style that was popular in the 1920s, Wood says it’s crucial to have clean sectioning—whether you’re doing the classic old-school wet look using gel or creating a dry finger wave using a curling iron. “Traditional finger waves—a wet set—can take hours, so I like to create that same look but on dry hair with hot tools instead,” says Wood. “If my client has a bob, for example, and wants that finger wave look, I would take a one-inch iron and do spiral waves all in the same direction, and then brush it out and mold the hair.
You want to understand the pattern of finger waves as this classic 1920s wave pattern is very specific. Stylists should keep their sections neat, and the waves should all be going in one direction. This means that on one side of the face, the waves should move away from the face, and on the other side, they’ll be going towards it so that when hair is brushed out and molded, it’s going to have a nice, uniform shape.” “Using silver setting clips as you’re creating the wave is my go-to,” he adds. “As you brush it out, you want to keep the shape and not completely brush hair all the way out. I take the setting clips in between my waves—between my “C” formations—just to keep everything in place. Then, I spray and remove the clips.” Although we’ve seen fewer red carpet events during the pandemic, Hillier says that when they do happen, you’ll likely spot the retro waves in one form or another. “Waves are always going to be around,” he says. “Whether it’s finger waves or spiral round waves done with a curling iron and brushed out
to give the same effect, there’s nothing like a classic wave.” When the [finger wave] look is done on wet hair, rather than with hot tools, Hillier says it’s considered a classic and accurate finger wave technique. “With the original technique, you would use either a mousse or a gel, depending on how firm you want the waves to be to hold them in place,” he says. “Unless a client is looking for a super retro look, you’d most likely brush them through, so they appear a bit softer, but still have body.” According to Cathey Salerno, bridal educator and owner of Picaso Studios in Woodbridge, Ont., finger waves are all about the set. “I usually do a classic wet set when a client is looking for finger waves,” she says. “But sometimes I’ll do a dry set and when I do, I make sure I’m going in the opposite direction on each row and pinning down the curl.”
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“THE FOUNDATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IN CREATING STYLES THAT LAST ALL DAY, AND IT ALL STARTS AT THE SHAMPOO BASIN. USING THE RIGHT PRODUCTS FOR THE RIGHT HAIR TEXTURE AND TYPE IS A MUST.”
3. Updos
When creating her signature updos, Salerno says she always “deconstructs to reconstruct” the hairstyle. “It’s so important to me to have a great foundation,” she says. “An internal braid and elastics are my go-to for creating longlasting, soft updos.” While Wood admits it took some time to learn, he also appreciates the
importance of having a solid base for his updos. “When I first started doing them, I was so focused on making every piece look perfect, but it was a waste of time since you’re pinning over top half of it,” he says. “I learned that you want to get 70 per cent of the hair back and away into the anchor, and it’s that other 30 per cent of hair that’s left out that creates the vibe of the updo. Not every piece needs to be pinned perfectly underneath—you just need a strong base. Backcombing (teasing at the root) and scalp powder are my absolute gotos for updos.” “I think updos right now
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are more of a modern take on a French twist, which is a little bit lower and looser,” says Steenman. “When the hair is up high and tight, it can be a bit aging on a younger person. When you bring it back a bit and doing that movement with the French twist, it becomes modern and stunning, and the blow-dry is important in ensuring the hairline is sleek. Pinning is also important; particularly in regards to making sure it’s pinned properly so it’s not sagging in the back, and ensure that your pins don’t show.”
PRO TIP WHEN TRYING TO CREATE MORE TEXTURE IN A SMOOTHER LOOK, WOOD SUGGESTS SPRAYING YOUR BOBBY PINS WITH A STRONG-HOLD HAIRSPRAY AS IT WILL CREATE A STICKY COATING ON THEM, AND YOU CAN PUT THE BOBBY PINS INTO YOUR UPDO’S ANCHOR. THEN, WITH THE GRITTY NEST CREATED WITH THE SCALP POWDER AND TEASING AT THE ROOT, YOU’LL GET LONG WEAR WITHOUT HAVING AN OVERLY STRUCTURED UPDO.
PHOTOS: CATHEY SALERNO, HAIR: BRITT STURING, TEAM TWINS HAIR AND BEAUTY, NETHERLANDS, MAKEUP: FLEUR MANNING, PHOTO: PETRA HOLLAND, BOBBY PIN BY ECONCEPTIVE FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
— CATHEY SALERNO, BRIDAL EDUCATOR AND OWNER OF PICASO STUDIOS, WOODBRIDGE, ONT.
4. Beach Waves
When creating effortless “fresh from the ocean” waves, Wood recommends using a smaller curling iron to replicate how the hair would dry naturally from the ocean. “Since hair doesn’t dry in a perfect pattern, I make sure to alternate directions when doing beachy waves, so whichever section I’m doing above or below is a different direction than the one before that,” he says. “On the top, I always wave away from the face since waving towards it is more of a Hollywood glam look. I also keep the ends straight when doing a beachy look because over-curling them can give off a more polished look. Texture is also so important! Alternating directions is great but it’s nothing without the proper products and finishing
sprays—sea salt sprays are a beachy-wave must!” When creating her effortless waves, Steenman says she always starts with a primer to give hair that “beachy” feel. “If you go with a flat iron, you’re going to get a different type of curl than if you go in with a curling iron,” she says. “Regardless of the hot tool you’re using, ensuring that the style is loose is key, so pull the hair down a little to ensure it has wave to it. I like full hair, so I always like to give it a good blowout. Anytime you’re doing a beachy look and want that full feeling, it’s important to start with a good blow-dry. Then, I finish it off with a sea-style spray to bunch it up and make it look like the wind blew through it. You want a bounce, and the blow-dry will help ensure that the style stays—and looks sexy!”
“YOU MUST HAVE A FULL RANGE OF HAIRSTYLING TECHNIQUES IN YOUR HEAD THAT YOU CAN BRING OUT AT ANY TIME IF YOU EVER WANT TO GET FURTHER THAN THE CHAIR. LEARN FINGER WAVES PROPERLY AND EDUCATE YOURSELF ON PIN CURLS. LEARN BOTH AND IF YOU CAN, CHANGE THEM AROUND TO GIVE THEM A MODERN EDGE.” — MARTIN HILLIER, CO-OWNER OF THE LOUNGE HAIR STUDIO, VANCOUVER
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PRO TIP SALERNO SAYS SHE CAN’T STRESS ENOUGH THE IMPORTANCE OF LAYERING PRODUCTS IN THE HAIR— ESPECIALLY WHEN CREATING STYLES THAT NEED TO LAST ALL DAY.
5.
Pin Curls
PRO TIP WHILE MANY STYLISTS ASK THEIR CLIENTS TO COME IN WITH DAY-OLD HAIR, STEENMAN PREFERS TO WASH HER CLIENTS’ HAIR THE DAY OF THE SERVICE TO ENSURE THAT IT HAS A CLEAN LOOK AND OFFERS THE PERFECT CANVAS FOR A POLISHED EFFECT.
If you want to do a pin curl for your client’s special day or glamorous holiday party, Steenman says the proper products are vital since it’s all about movement. “I like using products that control the movement of the hair without giving it a crispy look,” she says. “Pin curls will give you such a beautiful, classic look, and because women are wearing their hair sleeker these days, the finger waves and pin curls at the front are almost like
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wearing an accessory. Having a good product to control that movement in the hair can tie the look together and it’s very reminiscent of an old Hollywood style!” Salerno adds that the most important thing with pin curling is keeping the hair flat around your finger when pinning it directly on the section.
When working with curly-haired clients, achieving the same glamorous styles is entirely possible, but it’s important to note that a bit more thought should go into the treatment and preparation of the hair. When Salerno preps curls, she uses curly hair-specific products and lets hair dry naturally until it’s almost dry before using a diffuser to open the curls. When styling for parties, weddings and events, she says she loves to enhance her clients’ natural texture. “I choose a curling iron barrel size close to the size of the client’s natural curl to elevate and enhance the look she already has,” she says. “When creating updos on my curlyhaired clients, my go-to is to use as many elastics as I can while keeping the hair in its most natural state.” And because curly hair needs moisture, Steenman says you need to make sure to have a good hydrating product on hand before the styling process begins. “A lot of women with curly hair seem to be going for a more lived-in and natural look these days but they still want to dress the hair up, so hair accessories are a great option!”
PHOTOS: CATHEY SALERNO, SHAMPOO BY YOYO FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, TIMER BY ASH MURPHY FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
Curly Creations
PHOTO: HAIR: KRYSIA WEST, PERFECTLY POSH HAIR, U.K., MAKEUP: PJ MAXWELL, WARDROBE STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: TONY LE BRITTON
Battle of the Blowout
Is offering blowout and styling services the key to bringing clients back into the salon? Find out what the experts are saying about the current state (and future) of finishing services. BY VERONICA BOODHAN salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 31
In so many ways, the pandemic has changed the way a lot of us work. Whether by putting an end to doublebooking, limiting offered services or increasing health and safety protocols, today’s in-salon experience is significantly different than it was before March of 2020. Of course, with things slowly returning to normal, client experience is once again moving into focus—especially when it comes to building and maintaining loyalty. With the rise of underground salons and the fact that some clients are choosing to do their own cuts and colour at home, now might be the time to consider expanding your styling and finishing services to create an insalon experience that clients can’t find anywhere else.
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Not Just Hot Air
At Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton, Alta., Contessa-winning salon owner Tony Ricci offers a blow-dry and braid bar. “Blow bars were really taking off a few years ago and we decided to jump on it,” he says. “We started offering them when we were starting our academy, so I was looking for students and junior hairstylists to help with blowouts and styling, and offered these services at a lower cost. Now, we offer express blowouts for 30 to 40 minutes, and Happy Hour blowouts from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m., which is our slower time. We were offering the Happy Hour blowouts with a glass of wine, but can’t now [due to the pandemic].” Like many salons, Ricci noticed a decline in blowout and styling services in general since the pandemic began. “It started out really well but then the pandemic arrived. Then it began picking up when we reopened in July—we were getting calls and booked for express blowouts,” he says. “I think they will be back. I keep hearing the Roaring Twenties
will be back and I think people are going to want to do more of that and go out when things are more under control.” While people may be going out less now, offering blowout and styling services might be the key to introducing potential new clients to your salon, especially if they’re considering changing salons. It also provides your junior staff with a first-hand opportunity to work with and interact with clients. “Sometimes people who are shopping around for a new salon want to get a blowout or a braid just to have a feel for the salon,” says Ricci. “It’s common that they may not want to make the sacrifice of getting a haircut or colour by a new salon, but they’re likely looking for a good blowout. Because a lot of people wear their hair longer now, it can take more than an hour of our regular stylists’ time, but for two or three juniors, it can be a good training opportunity. It’s also a great way to introduce clients to the salon.” While we’re seeing light at the end of the COVID tunnel, because Alberta
PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, HAIR BY BETIANITI FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
PRO TIP IF A CLIENT IS UNSURE OF HOW TO STYLE OR FINISH THEIR HAIR, CONSIDER COMBINING BLOWOUT AND STYLING OPTIONS TO CREATE A MORE CUSTOMIZED LOOK. CONVERSELY, TRY CHANGING THEIR HAIR’S PART FOR A SUBTLE CHANGE.
has been experiencing a spike in cases, what the next few weeks and the holiday season will look like is still uncertain. “It’s been a hard time to build any kind of business, and in our case, we haven’t been able to hire any new staff because it’s been so up and down,” says Ricci. “We’re doing okay with the regulars but I think we’re going to have to do a price increase soon to generate a little bit more revenue because I don’t know if we’re going to see Christmas parties this year. Are people going to be going out for the holidays? Another consideration is that we need to spend more time with clients in the salon and give them a better customer service experience when they’re here so they don’t feel rushed. I think any kind of add-on you can offer that’s a little extra and makes them feel pampered will go a long way.”
Beyond the Surface
For Audrey Adriné Petrosyan, former salon director at Toni&Guy, the pandemic brought on a new set of challenges for their Blow Dry Club, a discounted, prepaid bundle of six blowouts that include a wash and style, and can be used over the course of a year. “It gave clients a reason to come back to the salon that’s not overly costly,” she says. “It was working really well because people want a little bit of a blowout to feel and look good—not just for an occasion, but for the weekend or a meeting. People want to treat themselves.” While she recognizes that there hasn’t been an increase in these services since the pandemic began, she also acknowledges that many salons charge extra for a blow-dry for some services, such as colour, or weren’t offering blow-drys at the height of the pandemic last year. “We had a lot of clients coming to us because we were washing the hair before the haircut and giving them a nice blowdry,” says Petrosyan. “As a colourist and hairstylist for more than 20 years, I cannot let anyone leave with wet hair. I want to see my work. Plus, dry cutting is a big part of the finishing of the haircut.” “If a client just spent $300 on her colour, we can’t let her leave with her hair wet. If another client walks in and sees her hair dry, they’ll have more confidence in me rather than if they see her hair while it’s still wet.”
Lasting Impression
At Sassoon Salon in Toronto, they offer nine different blowout options from their signature straight to beach waves to dishevelled looks, and seven styling options, including braids, twists and ponytails. “I think you have to almost spell it out for clients since they don’t always know what they want,” says Sassoon Salon’s salon director, Tricia McQuillan. “We’ve laid it out with a variety of different looks/options because not everyone is going to look great with ➤
“FOR MANY PEOPLE, A BLOWOUT IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF THE SERVICE. HAVING THAT FINISHING TOUCH MAKES YOU FEEL GOOD ABOUT YOUR WORK.” — AUDREY ADRINÉ PETROSYAN, FORMER SALON DIRECTOR AT TONI&GUY
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PRO TIP FOR HAIRCUTS, MCQUILLAN SAYS THEY OPT FOR USING A VESS BRUSH (A HALF-CIRCLE SHAPED BRUSH) OR A DENMAN BRUSH WITH A WRAPPING TECHNIQUE THAT USES THE NATURAL CURVE AT THE HEAD TO TURN THE HAIR UNDER WITHOUT CREATING TOO MUCH LIFT AT THE ROOT.
“WITH MORE ONLINE MEETINGS HAPPENING, PEOPLE ARE LOOKING AT THEMSELVES REGULARLY AND ARE WANTING TO COME IN TO GET THEIR HAIR STYLED BY A PROFESSIONAL. THEY DON’T WANT TO GO BACK TO LOCKDOWN HAIR. IT’S IMPORTANT FOR THEIR HAIR TO LOOK GOOD, EVEN IF THEY’RE WORKING FROM HOME.” — TRICIA MCQUILLAN, SALON DIRECTOR AT SASSOON SALON, TORONTO
PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, HALF MOON BY MOHAMED MB FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
the same one. It’s all about suitability— you have to have multiple options for the client.” “Working with different textures of hair and offering a variety to clients will open up a larger clientele,” she adds. “We have to be comfortable and know how to work with all different textures—poker-straight to curly waves to Afro texture—to be able to create a style that suits the client.” While McQuillan says there hasn’t necessarily been an increased demand for finishing services throughout the pandemic, it continues to be a core part of their business. “Since we’ve returned from lockdown, a good handful of clients are back to doing weekly blowouts again,” she says. “I think people have the extra money from not going away on holiday or spending it elsewhere, and they want to make themselves look and feel better. Now, people are coming in for blowouts before any events— even if it’s just a small get-together at someone’s house, they’re still coming in to get a blowout so they look good and don’t have to do it themselves at home. They can’t recreate at home what a professional can.” With Sassoon being famous for their signature styling and finishing techniques, did you know that the secret to getting their perfect blow-dry isn’t a round brush? “In the past, we didn’t typically work with round brushes because we’ve been all about getting the haircut precise,” says McQuillan. “We’re slowly introducing the round brush after colour services, or only for a blow-dry. I think people want a bit more volume in the hair—not the flat, sleek look anymore, but more of a tousled look, where the hair is more effortlessly wornin but still appears refined.” “During the lockdown, we’ve really perfected our styling and blowouts with more volume, working with curling and flat irons to create perfect waves—the done/undone look that’s still beachy but a bit more polished,” she adds. “The pandemic gave us more time to focus on and refine our styling, and it’s what people seem to want these days. Hair is longer and clients are generally keeping it longer than they have in the past. They’re coming back and not wanting to cut too much off. We’ve noticed a lot of new clients coming to us who are looking for more volume or fuller looks, so we want to make sure we’re on top of what’s happening out there.”
CO LLE CTIO NS
November+December
An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 35
Collections — CLUSTER
This British collection celebrates versatility and uniqueness by showcasing a range of opulent hairstyles and textures. 36 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
HAIR Mark Leeson Artistic Team for Revlon Professional, U.K. MAKEUP Clare Read WARDROBE STYLING Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 37
Collections — REIGN
This winning Australian collection celebrates empowerment, enlightenment and triumph through powerful looks that come together to form a strong, cohesive result.
2021 AHIA CREATIVE INDIVIDUAL STYLIST OF THE YEAR Charlene Fernandez, Australia MAKEUP Shella Ruby Martin WARDROBE STYLING Emma Boseley PHOTOS Liane Hurvitz
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 39
Collections — ICONOCLASTIC
From structured shapes to loose waves and cascading curls, the styles in this British collection are equally playful and seductive, featuring modern takes on classic looks alongside a variety of creative styling techniques.
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HAIR Marc Antoni Art Team, U.K. MAKEUP Sabrina Ruth Nicholson WARDROBE STYLING Ellen Spiller PHOTOS Jamie Blanshard
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 41
Collections — POWER
Texture, unique shapes and bold tones combine in this NAHA finalist's collection that is a nod to feminine strength.
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HAIR Evie Johnson, Evie Johnson’s Hair Solutions, Maryland, U.S. MAKEUP Renny Vasquez WARDROBE STYLING Jennifer Daniels PHOTOS Richard Monsieurs salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 43
Collections — HAIR EVERY WEAR
This revolutionary collection by Angelo Seminara for Goldwell pairs colours rooted in nature with tactile textures and structural designs for a series of compelling and innovative looks. ➤
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 45
Collections — HAIR EVERY WEAR
HAIR Angelo Seminara, Goldwell global ambassador MAKEUP Laura Dominique WARDROBE STYLING Niccolo Torelli PHOTOS Txema Yeste
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 47
Collections — SHINE ON
This Canadian collection oozes glamour—from its innovative styles and bold colours to its variety of luxe hairstyles and textures.
CONTESSA 2021 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto MAKEUP Paola Manigat, Marlene Gerschon WARDROBE STYLING Klaudia Capalbo PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 49
Collections — SEDUCTION
The perfect balance between high-fashion and edge, this Canadian collection showcases a range of creative styles and colours that are bold yet wearable.
CONTESSA 2021 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR
Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. MAKEUP Karina Brasseur WARDROBE STYLING Denis Gagnon PHOTOS Vanessa Secondino
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BOLD
TRANSFORMATION GALA
S U N DAY, N OV E M B E R 7, 20 2 1 C ock tail par t y: 7:30 p. m . EST G ala : 8:30 p. m . EST PRESENTED BY
#ContessaAwards
Join us for a hybrid awards gala— including live and virtual elements for a fun and immersive celebration!
WIT
EC P S H
I
RE P L A
S
SB N O AT I T N E
Y
Matrix Canada’s artistic director, Rodrigo Araneda
Wella Professionals’ global ambassador Darren Ambrose of D&J Ambrose
PRESENTING SPONSORS
SILVER SPONSORS
GOLD SPONSORS
Chasing Clouds To achieve texture, she played around with different techniques, including using a wooden skewer and tiny sections of the hair, wrapping it around super tight and running her flat iron over the hair so that when it was brushed out, she achieved a cloud-like texture. “I also did a lot of back-combing,” adds Lapierre. “This helped me create an airy texture that I could easily manipulate into my desired shape. What inspired the collection was my love of soft, romantic shapes and soft, clean palettes, which I think came across well.”
Katrina Lapierre According to Katrina Lapierre, a selfproclaimed “hair-obsessed” hairstylist, entering the Contessa Awards was something she wanted to do for a while, but it took time for her to be ready to be vulnerable enough to show her work to others. When entries opened for the 2021 Contessa Awards, though, she decided it was time. “I just thought I needed to put myself out there, push my creativity and really go for it,” says Lapierre, who is a stylist at Brennen Demelo Studio North in Barrie, Ont. “I decided to enter, and I ended up being a semi-finalist in the Ontario Hairstylist category and a finalist for Texture. I was in complete shock! I felt so honoured, and it all was clearly worth it.”
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Beginner’s Luck Not only was it Lapierre’s first time entering the Contessa Awards—it was also her first time creating a collection! “I called this collection ‘Rapture’ because the word means a feeling of intense pleasure or joy, and that’s truly how I feel when I see beautiful hair,” she says. “I wanted to showcase textures, shapes and colours that I’m drawn to and really show who I am as a stylist. With it being my first collection, I wanted to evoke emotion within the person looking at the images, as I’m a firm believer that art has the ability to make us feel intense emotions like pleasure or joy—and I was really striving for that.”
True Texture “I like working with texture because, visually, it’s so striking,” says Lapierre. “You can see an image and just imagine how it would feel to touch that texture and that excites me. It pushes me to really think outside the box and see what I’m capable of and how I can transform hair and move and manipulate it.” Although she says she enjoys working with and creating texture, she knows that hair must be properly styled and finished to not only make the person wearing it feel confident and amazing, but to really elevate the look. “It’s necessary to properly style and finish hair because it’s an important part of our craft and it really takes the hair to the next level,” she says. “When you take the time for both, you’re showing the full potential of what hair can be.”
TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTOS: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: KATRINA LAPIERRE, BRENNEN DEMELO STUDIO NORTH, BARRIE, ONT., MAKEUP: SYDNEY SEWARD, PHOTO: ALLYSANDRA CERVANTES
Contessa Gallery — FINALIST, 2021 TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR
“There’s something about moving and manipulating hair in certain ways to create movement and shapes that feeds my soul.”
The Contessa 2022 Finalists! CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Erin Fernandes, ED Hair & Tattoo, London, Ont. Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont. Michelle Oliver, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont. Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta. Salon Deauville, Montreal Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Vanity House, London, Ont. Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C. ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. Sabrina Sorella, J’AIME! Coiffure, Montreal Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MASTER COLOURIST Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Melita Campellone, J’AIME! Coiffure, Montreal Jesse Ervin, LUUM Salon, Lethbridge, Alta. Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Martin Crean, MODE Hair, Chipping Campden, U.K. Amy Gaudie, Urban Chic Salon, Ashgrove, Australia Sam James, SJ Establishment, Adelaide, Australia Juan Miguel Medialdea, Juan Miguel Medialdea Peluqueros, Guadix, Spain Manuel Mon, Manuel Mon Estilistas, Oviedo, Spain CANADIAN COLOURIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal Jesse Ervin, LUUM Salon, Lethbridge, Alta. Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Daniel Grieco, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Simon James, Style Lab Headquarters, Vancouver EMERGING HAIRSTYLIST Julie Ainsley, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta. Rachelle Dixon, Dixon Studios, Woodstock, Ont. Robynn Graham, Hair by Robynn, Innisfil, Ont. Leanna Heida, Freelance, Lindsay, Ont. Frederick Levesque, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec
AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Aprille Bouchard, Freelance, Toronto Kim-Chantal Garneau, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Deauville, Montreal Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto
BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia & Salon, Langley Travis Battaglia, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Simon James, Style Lab Headquarters, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt
CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Alexandra Chrustel, Nails by Alexandra, Barrie, Ont. Heather Dierkens, Salon + Spa Roxx, Sherwood Park, Alta. Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Liliya Leheta, Belle Beauty Boutique, Mississauga, Ont. Robyn Schwartz, Robyn Schwartz Nail Design, Long Creek, P.E.I.
ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Robin LaChance, Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie Lukas Press, Lukas Press, Toronto Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London
MAKEUP ARTIST Marika D'Auteuil, Marika D'Auteuil, Montreal Katie Flattery, Taz Hair Co., London, Ont. Heidi Fleming, Beauty by Heidi Amelia, Morden, N.S. Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Calgary Véronique Girard, Véronique Girard - Artiste Maquilleur, Jonquière, Que. MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Hannah Hewitt, Hair by Hannah, Vancouver Tyana Nichole, Brush Salon, Vancouver Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Navin Ramgoolam, Salon Deauville, Montreal Wan Wu, Tommy Gun’s Original Barbershop, Burnaby, B.C. MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Adrian Carew, Hair 91 Inc., Toronto Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont. Martin Menard, Le Kollectiv, Montreal Lukas Press, Lukas Press, Toronto Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Denise Meikle, Salon Origins, Vancouver Lukas Press, Lukas Press, Toronto Mandy Rogers, Hunt & Gather Hair Company, Victoria, B.C. ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove Mandy Clark, Salon + Spa Roxx, Sherwood Park Jenna Engel, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat Jesse Ervin, LUUM Salon, Lethbridge Justin Rizzuto, Mane House of Hair, Calgary ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Leo Forsythe, Simply Hair, Fredericton, N.B. Alma Head, Alma's Family Hair Salon Tanning and Esthetics, Sydney, N.S. Amanda Hodgson, Spirit Spa, Halifax Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S.
QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal Yves Houde, Atelier Mega Coiffure, Québec Maggie Semaan, Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan, Laval Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Sophie Tessier, Salon Larousse, Montreal SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Jamie Dorge, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Baillie Fyfe, Hair-O-Glyphics Hair Salon, Winnipeg Kelsie Kitzul, CHEL SalonSpa, Saskatoon Ashley Ruecker, Salon Haze, Regina Josie Vilay, Hairology Studio, Winnipeg FREESTYLE Daniel Grieco, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. @danielgrieco75 Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver @danalysenghair Michelle Oliver, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta. @michelleoliverhair Bx Pfeiffer, Fade ‘n Dye, Roberts Creek, B.C. @bxpfeiffer Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. @chelsealainesalonandcolourbar SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Blume Hair by Niki, Burnaby, B.C. GlosSalon, Vancouver Salon Christopher’s, Montreal Studio So Lara, Waterloo, Ont. Wish Dry Bar, West Vancouver The recipient of the JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE will be announced at the gala.
Visit salonmagazine.ca/contessa to view the finalist collections and for more information on how to register to virtually attend our Contessa 2022 hybrid gala on November 7th!
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 55
Celebrity hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons has worked with A-list actresses, supermodels, and of course, the Kardashians. Find out how he got his start and how he hasn’t let anyone—or anything—bring him down. BY VERONICA BOODHAN
How did you get your start in the hair industry? I got my start thanks to my mum. I begged her for a summer job when I was 13 so I could have some spending money, so she got me a job at the local salon. I instantly connected with the energy of the salon environment. When I went back to school in the fall, I knew it wasn’t the right place for me; I was ready to be out working and learning something I was actually passionate about. Much to Mum’s dismay, I left school to work full-time in the salon and get an apprenticeship, but she made me promise to fully dedicate myself to the job and work to the top of the field, and not to take sick days. To this day, I’ve only ever taken one sick day! You grew up in Dublin and lived in Paris. Tell us about that and what your key takeaways were. Did any of that inspire you to pursue hairdressing? Growing up in Ireland in the ’90s was often challenging. There was a lot of region-supported homophobia, so it could be an unkind environment to a sensitive gay boy. After completing my apprenticeship, I had the opportunity to travel to Paris at 18 to work with one of the top beauty agencies. After growing up in a stifled environment, I jumped at the opportunity to expand my career. There was a beautiful library near where I lived, so I spent all my 56 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
free time with my nose in magazines, studying and learning references, and absorbing the work of great hairdressers, photographers and fashion icons. You’ve worked with many different celebrities. What has surprised you the most about this? When working with famous people, your work is always going to be seen by a lot of people. I’ve been working with celebrities for a lot of my career, but what has been interesting has been the evolution of social media during that time. 10 or 15 years ago, doing a look for a celebrity would mean your work would be in the pages of magazines and on websites, but now that visibility is in hyperdrive: we’ll finish a look and anyone in the world can see it within minutes on Instagram. When it comes to hairstyling, what have been some of your favourite red-carpet moments? Do you have any standout moments or experiences? My favourites always change as time goes on, so it’s hard to say! If I had to pick a few, I’d say the recent wet waves
PHOTOS: NOUVEAU COMMUNICATIONS, INSTAGRAM
Profile – ANDREW FITZSIMONS
Doing It with Style
look I did for Megan Fox at the VMAs would be one, which is not only one of my most-liked posts on Instagram, but it’s probably one of my top favourites, personally, to date. And every Met Gala has been a special experience. I loved Kylie’s look from 2018—it was a really fun creative process. What are some things that people may not realize about celebrity hairstyling in general? Celebrities are human beings just like you or me. They have a lot of the same problems and insecurities, but they have the entire world watching and judging their every move, which is an unfathomable amount of pressure. What advice would you give to hairstylists who are interested in working with celebrities? If you’re interested in working with celebrities, make sure you’re doing so for the right reasons. Just like your relationships with clients in the salon, trust is everything. One of the reasons I’ve been able to be successful in this field is because I aim to treat everyone with the same high level of respect, whether my client is an A-list celebrity or a cashier. Everyone deserves to be treated with kindness and care. You’ve grown a large following on social media. What has been your secret to maintaining it? Honestly, social media is something I’m still working on, so I’d take any tips from you! In general, I try to consistently post my work and glimpses of my life. What are your thoughts on the increase of hair education being offered online due to the pandemic? I love that stylists are able to continue their education right from home. I think education of all types should be accessible to all, and I think online resources have made it so easy to be and remain informed and connected. I think this adapted way of working on your art or craft is fostering a new era of incredible talent. What’s next for you? Any goals you’re working toward that you can share with us? I have a few very big projects in the works for next year that I’m not able to reveal yet, but follow me on Instagram and I will share news as soon as I’m allowed! salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 57
Business —
Learn how salon owners are managing tips during the holiday season.
Since reopening after weeks (and months) of pandemic shutdowns, some salons have noticed that tips from clients have become more generous. And while reasoning varies—clients missed their favourite stylist, some people want to show their financial support in light of the hardships many salons have faced, and others are choosing to express their appreciation for the service they received—it’s abundantly clear that clients are thankful to be back. “When we returned from the first lockdown, I noticed that many regular clients were giving more generous tips to the hairdressers. They were so happy to be in the salon—many of them were even emotional,” says Jean-François Jodoin, owner of M Coiffure, Montreal. “Having beautiful hair makes all the difference! Many clients have their routine and were used to coming in for their hair appointment every week. It kind of felt like they wanted to pay us what they didn’t have to pay for the weeks/months that we were closed.” With the season of giving upon us, we spoke with salon owners about how they’re expecting to manage tips ahead of the holiday season, and for their advice on how to make tipping a teambuilding experience. 58 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
Managing the Money
While some salons prefer to stick to the traditional method of clients tipping their service provider directly (eg. providing envelopes at the reception desk for cash tips), the pandemic has changed things for some businesses. One of these changes has involved encouraging clients to use electronic payments rather than cash, which, when managing tips received from a debit or credit card, can be trickier since there’s a need to factor in payment processing fees. “Less and less people are carrying cash. Clients are free to give tips electronically on their card during the service transaction or by cash, and there will be no disadvantage for the hairdressers either way because I absorb the card transaction fees. At the end of the year, when I analyze my bank statements and I see that $10,000 to $17,000 went through in tips per hairdresser, I can only be grateful and appreciative for them.” — Jean-François Jodoin, owner of M Coiffure, Montreal
“Since a tip is a way for our guests to show appreciation for their services, they go directly to their service provider. Our tips go directly into our salon software and directly to our stylists’ pay from that payroll period.” — Michael Gibson, owner and co-founder of Brush Salon, Vancouver “I wanted to make the transactions and payment process easier for our clients and was asking other salon owners how they were managing tips on the machine and if they were even accepting them. Because I didn’t want hairdressers to be penalized, even though I was a little reluctant at first, I decided to pay the transaction fees myself to leave the hairdresser with the same amount of tip regardless of if the client decides to pay cash or by card.” — Jean-François Jodoin, owner of M Coiffure, Montreal
Spread the Love
Some salons may consider pooling their tips and distributing them evenly among staff, especially during busier times of the year, and the holiday season in particular. However, it’s important to note that there may be implications to this method come tax season. “Tips and gratuities that employees receive are considered income earned in respect of employment for purposes of the Income Tax Act. A good accountant or bookkeeper is essential in helping you manage your finances within your business.” — Michael Gibson, owner and co-founder of Brush Salon, Vancouver
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK, IDEA BY NUMERO UNO FROM THE NOUN PROJECT
Gratuity Goals
“IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO MAKE CHANGES WITHIN YOUR BUSINESS, DO IT AFTER YOUR YEAR END TO HAVE A SMOOTH TRANSITION AND MAKE SURE YOU’RE HAVING OPEN AND CLEAR COMMUNICATION WITH YOUR TEAM. THE LAST THING YOU WANT IS FOR YOUR BUSINESS IS TO CHANGE BEFORE THE BUSIEST TIME OF YEAR. KEEP THE FOCUS ON MAKING OUR GUESTS HAPPY AND GIVING THEM THE ABSOLUTE BEST EXPERIENCE.” — MICHAEL GIBSON, OWNER AND CO-FOUNDER OF BRUSH SALON, VANCOUVER
“If a hairdresser helps another hairdresser during a very busy day, or during the holiday period for instance, they take care of splitting any tip they would receive between themselves.” — Jean-François Jodoin, owner of M Coiffure, Montreal “If a stylist has a personal apprentice they work with, a percentage of their tips go directly to their apprentice to show their appreciation for their help.” — Michael Gibson, owner and co-founder of Brush Salon, Vancouver “I’ve heard of other structures in regard to tipping, such as pooled tips, or adding a percentage to a client’s bill to cover tips. I think it depends on the business, their needs, and what works for them.” — Michael Gibson, owner and co-founder of Brush Salon, Vancouver
Tipping the Scales Some salons, including The Cabinet Salon in Toronto, opt to utilize a gratuity-free structure and charge for services on an hourly, gender-free basis. “When doing research about making the change to hourly/gratuity-free, we noticed that the hairstylist trade is really the only registered trade still using a performancebased or gratuity pay scale. Our trade is around 80 per cent owned or operated by women; it’s not a coincidence that the trade with a higher percentage of women still uses a performance-based pay scale. We believe it’s time to change that. Using an hourly/gratuity-free model provides pricing transparency, removes gender from service, and gives us, as stylists, the ability to truly customize our clients’ time in the chair with us while removing the awkwardness of tipping. — Emma Rose, co-owner of The Cabinet Salon, Toronto “Our tipping structure was a traditional client decision on a pointof-sale device with a 10 to 20 per cent choice on the total sale. With an hourly/gratuity-free structure, we provide pricing transparency with a streamlined salon experience.” — Alex MacDonald, co-owner of The Cabinet Salon, Toronto
“Pooling would not work in my salon since we have too many hairdressers with different levels of experience and a diverse range of clientele.” — Jean-François Jodoin, owner of M Coiffure, Montreal
What To Know
Before making any changes to your salon’s tipping operations, it’s important to weigh the pros and cons of any structure, and, if you move forward, to focus on making the change as seamless as possible for both your clients and staff.
“Recently, we’ve heard of more service-based businesses, such as restaurants, also making the switch to gratuity-free. It removes the pressure from the patrons as often people will comment on how they are not sure how much they should be tipping. Is it too little? Is it too much? Our services are booked and priced by hourly rates that are gender-free. This streamlines the booking and quoting process, allowing flexibility to customize each client’s appointment to their needs and goals while giving the stylist freedom to create their best work. I think an hourly gratuityfree model has a lot of benefits for our industry, ranging from pricing transparency for clients to helping your stylist elevate their income and grow their net worth.” — Emma Rose, co-owner of The Cabinet Salon, Toronto “Going gratuity-free removes tipping awkwardness. It also offers the service provider a more consistent income and helps them be able to better plan their finances. All hourly rates are reflective of one-on-one time with each of our stylists. Each team member has an hourly session rate that reflects their experience, specialties and demand on their time.” — Alex MacDonald, co-owner of The Cabinet Salon, Toronto
If the total is $350, we break it down. For example, $195 for services and $155 for [take-home] products. It’s important to be mindful when adding the tip on the machine because the percentage it is suggesting will be for the total amount [and not just for the services]. We just want to make sure the client is aware of every aspect of the transaction and how the tip is calculated.” — Jean-François Jodoin, owner of M Coiffure, Montreal
“When the client is ready to pay, we provide an in-depth explanation of all the services and products on the transaction. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 59
Interiors – DEFINE HAIR STUDIO
Spring Fling Take a look inside this ultra-feminine and trendsetting salon located in the heart of Vaughan, Ont. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF
Capture This! Upon walking into the salon, guests are mesmerized by the 60-foot ceilings, sky lights and airy, open concept feel. “From the moment you walk in, you get this heavenly feeling,” she says. “With white and clean interiors and two accent walls that really pop, the design of our salon is very social media-friendly! Clients love taking photos on our flower swing, and of our custom angel wings art work and cherry blossom trees.” ➤ 60 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
PHOTOS: KUBA LOS
With a dream of creating “everything under one roof for the modern-day woman,” entrepreneur Julie Brocca set out to open Define Hair Studio, a 3,000-square foot salon in Vaughan, Ont., offering everything from hair and nail services to spa treatments. When first seeing the space, Brocca remembers thinking it was perfect and full of potential. Although she thought others would think the space was too large, she knew it was an ideal size to create her vision in. “I wanted to develop a landmark for the community, offering all hair services (we even have a wig room!) and any other beauty service you could think of, such as microblading, makeup, lip tattoos and more,” she says. “It’s a really special place where there’s something for everybody, and every woman leaves feeling beautiful.”
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62 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021
Lasting Beauty While Brocca jokes that she gets bored very easily, she says she wouldn’t want to redo such a large space, so she opted for a timeless design: Simple white with pops of gold for some elegance. “Creating something universal and classic was important for me,” she says. “We’ve created this feeling of spring and colour and happiness here. I always say that it’s a floral spring feeling 365 days a year. It’s like you’re on perpetual vacation, and how could you ever get bored of that?”
PHOTOS: KUBA LOS
Detail-Oriented Brocca says it was important that great lighting was featured throughout the salon, and that the small details weren’t overlooked. “Being a hairdresser my whole life, I made sure every little thing was incorporated into the space,” she says. “I addressed everything I’d want as a client—from the décor and lighting, down to the service experience. I wanted to provide clients with luxury services that won’t break the bank, but still make them look and feel fabulous.” She also stresses the importance of creating lasting relationships with clients. “Our team is very friendly and authentic, which is super important when running a business. Our vibe and aesthetic is all about openness and making people feel welcome.” “Our reception area is huge and makes an impact as soon as you enter the salon,” she adds. “Although our salon is open concept, we made our colour bar private so other guests can’t see what’s happening in the colour area. Some clients like privacy when they have their foils in, and they really love the privacy they get there.” Behind the front desk is a portrait of a woman, and Brocca says it served as the inspiration for the aesthetic of the whole salon. “I bought the painting before I even found this space. It was everything for me; I loved it and still love it so much. The woman has newspapers and flowers in her hair, and just emanates beauty, so it had to be on display. We decided to put her behind the custom-designed reception desk, which is a huge focal point of the salon.” Keeping in mind that the space is so large, it was important to Brocca that the flow and cohesive design worked in tandem. “Our designer, Sandra Fiore from Fiore + Greco, really helped with the flow as I insisted there needed to be a guiding current for the client,” she says. “The design and pops of colour were all me. I felt it was important to infuse my style and energy into the space in order for my vibe to feel tangible to the client. I wanted it to be a sanctuary and happy place for them as much as it is for me.”
DETAILS Opened December 2019 DESIGN Fiore + Greco SPACE 3,000 square feet
Oribe Kevin.Murphy Bellami Hair Extensions WEBSITE definehair.ca INSTAGRAM @define_hair_studio
TEAM 8 hairstylists/colourists 1 receptionist BRANDS
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 63
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Events —
Highlights from the 2021 Kao Salon Virtual Experience
| Angelo Seminara unveiled his new collection, Hair Every Wear, which was inspired by his curiosity of nature and the romance of wilderness, and showcased a range of innovative techniques.
For the second consecutive year, Kao Salon Division hosted its global digital event that was filled with creativity and inspiration from Goldwell, KMS and Oribe. The brands’ artists and educators led artistic and technical education in colour, cutting and styling. The event also featured the premiere of the company’s 2021 Global Creative Awards, including the live announcement of the competition’s winners, and the debut of Goldwell global ambassador Angelo Seminara’s latest collection. When: October 3-4, 2021
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The inspirational Artist Sessions were led by brand ambassadors, educators, award-winning salons and teams, such as, Mario Krankl, X-presion Creativos, Oribe artists and more.
PHOTOS: KAO SALON DIVISION
| The two-day event was hosted by global creative director John Moroney and featured various panels about sustainability, led by Shane Price, founder and CEO of Green Circle Salons, a Future Talks session with industry experts such as Dominic Pratt (pictured above, right), the company’s global president, and Daniel Kaner, president and co-founder of Oribe.
| The #CreativityNeverStops sessions put the spotlight on Kao artists including Canadians Frank Cini, Edwin Johnston and Michael Shire, who shared their artistry in the form of technical demos—showing off their best cut, colour and styling techniques. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2021 65
Salon Social —
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Sassy Styles
Waves for days! Salon owner and hairstylist @janetjacksonhairstylist gave influencer Sasha Exeter the perfect voluminous waves for an easy day-to-night look.
Want to create the ultimate holiday looks on your clients this season? These experts from across the country—and the world— show off their latest techniques and creations on social media for top-notch hair inspiration. From updos to classic waves to bridal glam, there’s no shortage of superb styles your clients can rock to their next event, gala or virtual gathering!
➣ Actress and model Lily-Rose Depp rocks a soft and feminine ‘do by Toronto-based style expert @kirstenklontz.
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@sabastiien.coiffeur understood the assignment with this bridesmaid look! The Montreal-based hairstylist created a dramatic side part reminiscent of Old Hollywood glam and completed the style with sparkly hair accessories.
TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM
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Vancouver-based stylist @hairbyarmineh helped fashion model Lilian Leopold elevate her look with these luscious, bouncy brunette waves that are fit for any occasion!
Hair accessories are where it’s at! Journalist Olivia Perez dazzles in a classy updo with pearl accessories, styled by Los Angeles-based hairstylist @ayanojhair.
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We can’t get enough of this glam! @styledbynadia from Toronto gave her curly-haired client a gloriously textured look.
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For the 2021 Emmy Awards, celebrity hairstylist @matthewstylist created a stunning stitched braid on actress Paulina Alexis, who is from the Alexis Nakota Sioux Nation in Alberta.
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