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GA M E - CH A NGI NG BUS I N E S S I DE A S F OR SA L ON M A NAGE M E N T, PR IC I NG , R E TA I L A N D MOR E
THE BE N E F I T S OF M E N TOR I NG TO H E L P THE NEXT GE N E R AT ION OF BE AU T Y PRO S
The Empowerment Issue N OV E M B E R + D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3
salonmagazine.ca
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November+ December 2023 26 F E AT U R E
Paying It Forward
For many working in the beauty industry, mentorship has played a vital role in helping them get to the top of their game. We caught up with some mentors and mentees to find out about their stories and learn how mentorship can help grow the industry.
31 F E AT U R E
Embracing Entrepreneurship
46 TRACEY HUGHES , TRACEY HUGHES EDUCATION, AUSTRALIA
“I chose to go independent once I felt secure in having a balanced skill set, so ensuring that you’re well rounded in your skills is really important.” — SIMON JAMES, FREELANCE HAIRSTYLIST AT STYLE LAB HEADQUARTERS, VANCOUVER ON THE COVER: ANDREA DORATA & DORATA ART TEAM, DORATA HAIRDRESSING, U.K. MAKEUP: CRISTINA SOAR, WARDROBE STYLING: ANDREA DORATA, PHOTO: CHRIS BULEZUIK
With an undeniable shift toward more flexibility and freedom, independent hairstylists get candid about their experiences while unpacking the pros and cons of being your own boss.
35 I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
Andrea Dorata & Dorata Art Team; Johanna Libbey; Michelle Pargee; Mario Fioravanti; Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Creative Team; Tracey Hughes
50 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Alix Taylor
Discover how this North Vancouver-based hairstylist got her late start in the industry yet continues to remain inspired. Plus, learn about her experience with mentorship and how it’s helped advance her career.
60
Contessa 2024 Finalists!
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 7
10
56
Editor’s Letter
INTER IORS
Pink Paradise
Take a tour inside this Vancouver Island-based salon that features an all-pink design and learn why its salon owner wasn’t afraid to make bold design choices.
12 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Whether you’re looking to get inspired from our collection archive, stay up to date on industry news, learn new techniques from our howtos or stay in the loop on all things Contessa, our website has you covered!
13 W H AT ’ S N E W
Hairlines
Get set for the season with new product launches in haircare, styling, colour and more. Plus, get the lowdown on the French crop haircut and tips for creating dimensional brunettes, along with fall/winter nail trends and a breakdown of what to expect at this year’s Contessa Awards gala.
42 MA R IO F IORAVA NTI, MF SALON PRIVEE, AUSTRALIA
52 44 SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS CREATIVE TEAM
BUSINESS
Changing the Game
Looking for ways to improve your salon business? We checked in with the experts for their take on some of the latest trends and out-of-thebox ideas.
54 P RO F I L E
Social Media Sensation
Discover how Matt Newman (a.k.a. @MattLovesHair) went from working behind the scenes of New York Fashion Week as a freelance stylist to making the switch to a full-time content creator. Plus, get his tips on how to create social media content that your clients will love.
8 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
64
Events + Scoop
66 SA LON STOR IE S
The End of a Global Era
Legendary Australian-based hairstylist Sharon Blain has embarked on her final world tour. We caught up with her to learn about why she decided that now was a good time to take a step back. Plus, we get her tips for the next generation of hairstylists.
NEW COLLECTION
MAGICAL BOTANY
SCARLET LETTER
IT’S GETTING GO LDER
M IDN IG HT FL IG HT
P OIS ON P LUM
FR OST B IT E
FOR EV ER G R EEN
FULL, EVEN COVERAGE • 5-MINUTE REMOVAL* • NO NAIL DAMAGE** • 150+ COLORS Available in CNDTM ShellacTM Gel Polish & CNDTM VinyluxTM Long Wear Polish *When used with CND SHELLAC™ XPRESS5™ Top Coat. **When used as directed. CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX and XPRESS5 are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. © 2023 CND, Inc. CND-23-0355
Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 32, ISSUE 6 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca
Editor’s Letter —
ART DIRECTOR Barbara Burrows DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Aleah Balas, Lucy Mazzucco, Corinna Reeves
SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca
Finding My Voice
Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director
10 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
Salon Magazine 806-150 Eglinton Avenue East, Toronto, ON M4P 1E8
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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Growing up as the youngest in a family of five wasn’t always easy. While some may find this hard to believe, as a child, I often felt like I needed to be the loudest in the room to have my voice heard. It wasn’t until my teens that I developed a more soft-spoken nature. Some may call it shy or reserved, but I just never felt like I had to be an attention seeker. Now, going into my 15th year in journalism and my eighth year with Salon, I feel inspired to share part of my story in none other than our “Empowerment” issue. It’s sometimes still a struggle being the youngest in a room of decision makers (especially as a BIPOC female). While I’ve never chosen to see myself as a victim—or, worse, “less than”—I have no one to blame but myself for not making my voice heard when it should have been the loudest in the room. Now, I feel more confident than ever to stand up for what’s right and not be afraid to swim against the current. Over the years, I’ve realized that I often dismiss my own opinions and abilities to help make others feel more comfortable or boost their confidence. No more! As I lead the next generation of individuals, both personally and professionally, it reminds me that I need to set a good example. In this issue, we want to spotlight different facets of the industry that some people may overlook or misjudge. In “Paying it Forward” (page 26), we chat with mentors and mentees about the importance of mentorship and how it’s needed to help nurture and grow the industry. In “Embracing Entrepreneurship” (page 31), we speak candidly with independent hairstylists about their journeys and break down the pros and cons of going solo. This fall, I was honoured to be invited to judge Kao’s Global Creative Awards in Chicago. The experience was incredible and helped me empathize with our Contessa judges, who had the tough time of judging this year’s entries (check out our 2024 finalist list on page 60). While there can be only one winner, you should all be proud of your work this year! We can’t wait to publish these gorgeous collections in our upcoming issues and celebrate with you all at the 2024 Contessa Awards gala on November 12th. While there’s a lot to unpack in this issue, I hope it inspires you to rethink the way you work and create. Remember that there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. I hope you find key takeaways from one another’s stories to continue to empower and uplift our industry.
CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon
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Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.
The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.
ONLY THE GOOD STUFF Everything your curls need, and nothing they don’t. Because we know curls.
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We’re counting down the days to the Contessa Awards gala on November 12, 2023! Don’t miss out on the biggest night in Canadian professional beauty. Plus, this year marks the Contessas’ 35th anniversary! Check out our website to buy tickets, get livestream info and more.
Inspiration Awaits Our archive of editorial collections from hairstylists around the world is sure to get your creative juices flowing.
Job Hunting? Did you know we have a job board that’s filled with industry opportunities from across the country? Check out our latest job postings now.
Get the Scoop
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HOLIDAY HAIR
Stay ahead with the latest industry news, trends, Contessa announcements and more by subscribing to our weekly newsletter.
12 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
Tis’ the season to be glamorous! Get step-by-step details on how to recreate photo-ready holiday party hair looks for your clients.
PHOTOS: HAIR: JASON HALL, JASON HALL HAIRDRESSING, U.K., MAKEUP: KELLY CRIPPS, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY, HAIR & PHOTO: CINDY DUPLANTIS, CHATTERS HAIR SALON, MISSISSAUGA, ONT.
salonmagazine.c
Contessa Celebration
PHOTO: HAIR: HERMIZ DANIEL FOR AMAZING HAIR AUSTRALIA, JOEY SCANDIZZO SALON, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: KYLIE O’TOOLE, WARDROBE: ARIANA MANTZARIS, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE, OTHER: JELENA HANSON
WARM UP WITH A NEW ROUTINE THIS WINTER WITH THE LATEST LAUNCHES IN HAIRCARE, COLOUR, STYLING AND MORE. Inspired by confident women who are ready and empowered to make a fashion statement, the Effortless Sophistication collection by Hermiz Daniel for Amazing Hair Australia features bold, wearable, everyday shades, as well as lived-in looks and texture. Drawing on the iconic styles of the past and calling on the meaning of girl power, Daniel aimed to portray the “wow factor” often seen on celebrities such as Brigitte Bardot, Pamela Anderson, Gwen Stefani, Beyoncé and more. Featuring edgy yet feminine styles and ready-to-wear colours, this collection is sure to inspire you and your clients to embrace and exude confidence and try out a new look this season.
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Bonding Time Hairlines — NEWS
Help your clients complete their bonding routine with these new additions to Redken’s Acidic Bonding Concentrate line. Ideal for your blonde and brunette clients with any hair type, the Acidic Bonding Concentrate line from Redken has two new products to help increase hydration and manageability. The Lightweight Liquid Conditioner helps to reinforce bonds while enhancing the texture of fine, colour-treated hair and features a spray formula that offers 48 hours of volume without any residue. The 5-Min Liquid Mask is a nourishing treatment that’s formulated with the brand’s intensive Conditioning Care Complex to provide hair with hydration, moisture and shine while helping to detangle knots.
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Shield Your Styles
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Multitasker Get 12 benefits in one product with DevaCurl’s Mist of Wonders Leave-In Instant Multi-Benefit Curl Spray. Ideal for clients with wavy, curly or coily hair who are looking to simplify their haircare routine, the Mist of Wonders Leave-In Instant MultiBenefit Curl Spray helps prep, protect and prime hair, all in one step. Housed in a continuous mist spray bottle for easy at-home use, the lightweight leave-in spray helps to moisturize, soften and strengthen strands and reduce frizz up to 85 per cent while simultaneously helping to detangle hair and reduce breakage. The spray is safe for colour-treated curls and is even available in a refill pouch to help reduce waste.
14 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
As the newest addition to Moroccanoil’s Frizz Control Collection, the Frizz Shield Spray is a weightless, heat-activated spray that helps protect hair from humidity, which causes frizz, static and flyaways. It’s compatible with all hair types and formulated with the brand’s HydroResist Technology, which is activated by heat and coats the strands before styling to help keep hair smooth and protected from humidity, heat damage and the environment. The spray also contains amaranth peptides to increase manageability and jackfruit extract to help hydrate hair, as well as the brand’s signature ingredient, argan oil, for unparalleled moisture and shine.
PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): REDKEN, MOROCCANOIL, DEVACURL
Get the ultimate protection from frizz and flyaways with Moroccanoil’s Frizz Shield Spray.
NEW
STRENGTHENER RXx CARE. CONDITION. COAT.™
A nourishing and strengthening nail coating that adds protection while thickening and smoothing the nail surface. Breathable Formula & Vegan.
INCLUDES CELERY SEED EXTRACT, TSUBAKI OIL (CAMELLIA FLOWER SEED OIL) AND ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS SUCH AS OMEGA-6, OMEGA 9, VITAMINS A, B, E AND ZINC. CND is a trademark of Creative Nail Design, Inc. © 2023 CND, Inc. CND-23-0355
Help your clients embrace and transition their grey hair in just one visit with Matrix’s Silver Lining service and new pre-bonded SoColor Sync and Tonal Control shades. As more clients are open to embracing their grey hair, this silver service will help them transition their colour by removing dyes while toning and lowlighting all in one visit. Recommended for clients with prelightened hair to levels four or higher, the Silver Lining service is ideal for all hair patterns and designed to mimic the natural highs and lows of greying hair. For this service, Matrix is also introducing five new pre-bonded SoColor Sync shades (10NV, 6T, 6P, 4T and 4P) for lowlighting and colour correcting and four new pre-bonded Tonal Control shades (10P Pearl Power, 8P Mother Pearl, 10T Chrome + Collected and 8T Slay in Silver) for post-lightening, toning and glossing. Combining alkaline and acidic demipermanent formulas with the Silver Lining service allows clients to embrace their greys without having to deal with the harsh regrowth and enables you to bring new clients into the salon while retaining those current grey clients.
CA L L I N G A L L S A L O N OW N E R S !
Get inspired and ready to learn at Phorest’s 8th annual Salon Owners Summit. Phorest Salon Software is getting ready to host its annual Salon Owners Summit! Held on January 7 and 8, 2024, in Dublin, Ireland, the event will bring together hundreds of salon owners and beauty pros from around the world and feature education seminars and guest speakers on topics ranging from industry trends to business opportunities to challenges with innovative ideas and solutions. Among this year’s speakers are California-based salon business mentor and educator Nina Tulio, beauty-industry coach Geno Stampora, entrepreneur and WAH Nails founder Sharmadean Reid MBE and more. For more information, visit salonownersummit.com.
Canadian Collab Joico Canada announces its newest ambassador, Sharon Mudavanhu. Sharon Mudavanhu (a.k.a. @yogacolourist) is joining the Joico Canada team as the brand’s new ambassador. Born in Zimbabwe, Mudavanhu fell in love with hair at the age of five and is now an experienced colourist who specializes in providing her dark-toned clients with beautiful blends. In addition to her work behind the chair, Mudavanhu mentors her team of eight stylists. This new partnership is the beginning of Joico Canada’s new #joicollective program, which is aimed at creating a diverse community of talented stylists while helping them provide education and inspiration, connect with other stylists on social media and more.
16 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): MATRIX, PHOREST, JOICO
Hairlines — NEWS
Sterling Finish
Nail Health = Wealth HELP YOUR CLIENTS ACHIEVE THEIR HEALTHIEST NAILS WHILE ENHANCING THEIR SERVICE EXPERIENCE WITH CND’S NEWEST INNOVATIONS. With heightened awareness around the importance of nail health, clients are increasingly sensitive to how products and services can affect the integrity of their nails. “It’s essential to prioritize well-being, health and safety while receiving aesthetic treatments,” says Valerie Ducharme, a Quebec-based nail artist, educator and CND ambassador. “We need to let go of the preconceived notion that [pain is beauty]. Today, we know that it’s possible to take care of ourselves and stay beautiful without sacrificing the health of our nails. This involves seeking experienced technicians and using recognized, quality products.” Healthy Nails, Increased Sales! Ducharme shares that her clients’ biggest nail concerns are centered around deterioration from filing or due to products like polish remover or the application of acrylic on their nails. Getting your clients into a consistent routine, both during their salon visits as well as at home, can help them strengthen and smooth their nail surface while reducing the risk of chipping and cracking their natural nails. Plus, it can even help them avoid issues around product adhesion, especially during a CND Shellac service. “Nail health is important for retaining and building clientele because a client whose nails have been affected will lose confidence, be self-conscious about their hands, and may not want to redo the treatment,” says Ducharme. “It’s easier to educate our clients than to try to cure and recover them later.” “I apply the CND Strengthener RXx after a service to moisturize, protect and treat the nails if I notice that they’ve been damaged,” she adds. “The CND Strengthener RXx is a routine to be followed daily to restore the health and appearance of nails. It strengthens the natural nail and is ideal for treating dry, brittle, prone-to-splitting nails, etc. I offer
ACCORDING TO DUCHARME, THE CND ODORLESS SCULPTING LIQUID CAN BE A GREAT ADDITION WHEN TEACHING BEGINNER NAIL TECHNICIANS SINCE IT APPLIES EASILY AND DOESN'T STICK TO THE BRUSH AS MUCH, ALLOWING THEM TO ACHIEVE BETTER RESULTS.
the CND Strengthener RXx as a treatment over at least a month, almost like a wellbeing regimen for nails. It’s essential for clients to continue using it at home to achieve optimal results. I increase my sales and my services, while building customer loyalty by selling clients a product that genuinely helps them.” Elevating the Experience For clients interested in traditional acrylic services, nail health is still top of mind, but so is enjoying their time at the salon, which can sometimes be difficult when the products used have a strong odor. “The smell of nail products can genuinely bother our clients, sometimes causing headaches,” says Ducharme. “Even after taking all possible precautions to reduce the smell, it’s difficult to eliminate it completely. Over time, I got used to the smell to the point where I didn't even notice it. However, having to constantly explain or justify the smell became very taxing and made the experience unpleasant, both for me and my clients.” CND Odorless Sculpting Liquid is designed to minimize odors associated with traditional acrylic services and can be used to build both length and
shape. “The odor could be unpleasant for many people and sometimes discouraged new clients from coming into the salons,” she adds. “Some salons have even banned the use of acrylic due to the odor, so for me, the absence of odor is a gamechanger.” Another great way to enhance the nail service experience, while adding value, is by offering a hand massage, which Ducharme shares is a well-loved addition among her clients. For her massages, Ducharme uses CND SolarOil as it’s a quick way to rehydrate the client’s nails and skin, while maintaining the flexibility of natural nails. “It also prevents dryness and nail splitting, making nails stronger and healthier,” she says. “All my clients have a bottle at home, and it’s important to me that they understand to use it daily. I always want to work on helping them achieve healthy nails.” CND SolarOil is made with a blend of light oils, including jojoba, vitamin E, rice bran and sweet almond, and offers a fresh, floral and musky fragrance with notes of fruits including raspberry, cherry and strawberry, flowers such as violet, jasmine and lilac, as well as vanilla and soft woods among other notes.
—Sponsored by CND — salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 17
Create effortless curls and frizzfree waves with the latest tools from BaBylissPRO. Available in two barrel sizes (including 3/4" and the new 1-1/4”), the MiraCurl is an automatic curler that helps create effortless and consistent curls. Featuring the brand’s Nano Titanium technology for even heat distribution and gentler styling, the MiraCurl offers three curl directions (alternate, right and left), five temperatures (ranging from 300°F to 430°F) for all hair types, and three time settings for either tight, soft or loose curl types. It also includes a lightweight and ergonomic design, a nine-foot swivel power cord and Ryton housing for ultra heat resistance. It also features a removable sleeve with a heatresistant silicone ring for easy cleaning. The Ionic Deep Waver features Sol-Gel Nano Titanium technology for even heat distribution and gentler styling. It’s also equipped with a built-in ion generator for frizz-free shine and less static. The waver has five digital temperature settings (up to 430°F) with an ergonomic design with a locking plate switch and an eight-foot swivel power cord. Plus, the waver can be flipped for two different looks (M Shape for glam waves and U shape for textured waves). The Ceramix Xtreme Standing Ceramic Hair Setter includes 16 hot rollers in three sizes (1-1/4”, 1-1/2” and 1-3/4”) that feature a smooth surface to prevent pulling while providing grip, as well as 16 metal pins and 16 butterfly clips. Plus, it features a vertical design that’s designed to take up less space with a built-in drawer for storage.
M O R E T O L OV E
milk_shake stirs things up with the launch of three new products. Whether you’re looking to lighten, repair or condition your clients’ hair, milk_shake’s latest products may help. Light Calibre Level 9 Lightener: As an extension to their Catcher Spotlight range, this new product is milk_shake’s most powerful lightening powder, lifting up to nine levels while maintaining hair’s health and vitality. Formulated with the brand’s signature milk proteins for hair strength and avocado oil for healthy and shiny hair, this product helps detangle, condition and improve hair’s appearance while lightening. Ideal for both freehand painting and foiling, this lightener features a non-drip, no-swell formula with light catcher smart bag packaging that’s easy to use and made with 30 per cent of the plastic used in traditional packaging. Insta.Light Shampoo: Formulated with a creamy texture, peach fragrance and fruit extracts that provide elasticity and strengthen hair, the insta.light shampoo is one step in the insta.light in-salon lamination service, which offers your clients sleek and shiny hair that lasts up to three washes. The The 10th Anniversary Edition of Incredible Milk: To celebrate 10 year's of the brand’s Incredible Milk, milk_shake has released a jumbo limited-edition bottle that features the artwork of Italian artist Cecilia Castelli. The design showcases hair with different shapes and colours to represent how Incredible Milk’s 12 benefits work on all hair types, from colour-treated to natural, fine to coarse, and straight to curly.
GO CR A ZY W ITH COLOUR
Brighten hair with fashion shades from Paul Mitchell’s Colorways. It’s time for you and your clients to get creative with colour, thanks to the Colorways line from Paul Mitchell. With nine semi-permanent shades, as well as a clear diluter, each shade is formulated with a medium dye load for maximum deposit, vibrancy and longevity and minimal off-tone fading. The line is also infused with nourishing ingredients, such as meadowfoam seed oil, to offer more shine after the service and even features a conditioning shampoo base that only requires cool water to rinse out the product. The new shades include Aqua, Blue, Green, Grey, Hot Pink, Magenta, Purple, Red and Yellow and can either be used on their own, mixed for a more customized look or diluted for even more personalization.
18 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, MILK_SHAKE, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS
Hairlines — NEWS
Styling Simplified
C O U N T D O W N
Here’s everything you need to know about the 2024 Contessa Awards gala.
Hairlines — NEWS
Contessa GALA DATE
Sunday, November 12, 2023 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto Cocktail party: 5 p.m.
Awards ceremony and gala: 7 p.m.
Afterparty: 10:30 p.m.
Make sure to check out the special preview of the presentation that will be on display during the cocktail party! Note: This tribute presentation begins at 7 p.m. sharp. You won’t want to miss it!
Honouring a Legend Paying tribute to legendary salon owner and hairstylist Jon Paul Holt, this powerhouse Canadian collective—consisting of Norm Wright, Anna Pacitto, Edwin Johnston, Tony Ricci, Marlo Steenman and Martin Hillier, along with Holt’s longtime creative director, Myles Laphen, and protégé Tara-Lynn Fournier and award-winning editorial makeup artists Marika D’Auteuil and Ekaterina Ulyanoff—is going to start the show off with a bang! From honouring Holt’s final creative collection to putting their own twist on some of his most iconic styles, this tribute will be unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Red-Carpet Realness We’re thrilled to have makeup artist and beauty expert Tracy Peart join us as our 2024 Contessa red-carpet guest host. Known for her bold fashion and body positivity, Peart is sure to bring her signature style and sass to the red carpet as she interviews finalists, attendees and sponsors during the Contessa cocktail party. Don’t miss your chance to be in the spotlight!
Big Debut Omar Antonio will be making his Contessa debut at this year’s gala! Presenting on behalf of Wella Company and Sebastian Professional, the incredibly talented Sebastian international artist is sure to wow attendees with his extraordinary avant-garde creations that you’ll have to see to believe.
Party Time! Get ready to party the night away with this year’s official Contessa afterparty at the Westin Harbour Castle. Sponsored by Matrix and Redken, the celebration will bring the best of both worlds together to provide attendees with an unforgettable experience.
REMINDER: YOUR CONTESSA GALA TICKET INCLUDES FREE ADMISSION TO THE AFTERPARTY!
TWICE AS NICE In honour of the 35th anniversary of the Contessas, we’re excited to share that Bill Rowley and Palma N’Sheluvzit will be co-hosting this year’s show! As a hairstylist, former Contessa judge, red-carpet host and special guest, N’Sheluvzit is well versed in all things Contessa and is excited to bring her own spice to this year’s awards ceremony and gala. Rowley (who has hosted the Contessas more than 15 times!) is sure to bring his seasoned expertise while keeping the night flowing with some laughs and tongue-in-cheek humour.
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 19
Hairlines — NAILS
CELEBRITY NAILS
“SLEIGH” THE SEASON
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Gelish Give your clients the gift of fierce nails this holiday season with Reddy to Jingle, a red rose pearl shade from the On My Wish List collection.
Artistic Nail Design Turn up the glitz and glamour with Of Quartz You Would, a deep magenta crème shade from the Dripping in Diamonds collection.
Seen on the Scene
From long and dark to neutral and natural, these celebrity nails are sure to inspire you and your clients to jazz up your nail looks this holiday season. 4 Perfect for the crisp winter days ahead, nail artist Kim Truong opted for a chic yet edgy vibe with these purple nails created for Kourtney Kardashian. 5 Actress Shay Mitchell and nail artist Jenny (@jenny.jennys) decided on a decadent brown shade with nails that featured a sleek oval shape. 6 For something a bit more eye-catching, Bachik went for it with these silver chrome nails for actress Charlize Theron.
SPOTLIGHT
Strong All Day Long Formulated to resist the chipping and cracking of your clients’ natural nails, CND’s Strengthener RXx is a nourishing and strengthening nail coating that adds protection while helping to thicken and smooth the nail surface. Ideal for both in-salon and at-home use, this nail treatment features a coating that absorbs and dries quickly while offering a breathable (water- and oxygenpermeable) formula that doesn’t yellow the nail. It also contains celery seed extract, which helps strengthen nails, and Tsubaki oil, with essential fatty acids, such as vitamins A, B and E, as well as omega-6 and -9, to help condition the nail. As an added bonus, the product is vegan and formaldehyde-free.
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CND Poison Plum, from the Magical Botany collection, is a deep burgundy shade that features redmaroon glitter and is sure to be the star of any holiday party.
OPI No matter if your client is naughty or nice, they’re sure to get on Santa’s good side with Blame the Mistletoe, a shimmery fuchsia shade from the Terribly Nice collection.
ORLY Rooting For You, an earthy brown shade from the Spice It Up collection, is the perfect neutral shade to take clients from fall to the holidays (and beyond).
PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): INSTAGRAM, CND, GELISH, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, OPI, ORLY
1 For singer Gwen Stefani, celebrity nail artist Eri Ishizu designed a bold, patterned look that featured a brown-and-cream checkered design outlined in gold chrome. 2 Ishizu also created a burnt-orange-andbrown coffin-style nail for The Little Mermaid star Halle Bailey. 3 Always changing up her nail look, Jennifer Lopez went for an understated approach with these light grey nails by celebrity manicurist Tom Bachik.
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Hairlines — SHORTCUTS
French Crop WHETHER YOUR CLIENTS ARE LOOKING TO GROW OUT THEIR FADES AND BUZZ CUTS OR SEEKING A TRENDY NEW STYLE FOR THE SEASON, WE’RE BREAKING DOWN THE FRENCH CROP WITH EXPERT TIPS ON ACHIEVING THIS LOOK AND HOW IT CAN BE ADAPTED TO A WIDE RANGE OF CLIENTELE.
➣ PRO TIP
It goes without saying that the past few years have both forced and inspired many clients to think outside the box when it comes to their hairstyles. For those with long hair, some have experimented with shorter and bolder styles, with some even embracing the buzz cut. With many of these styles having now grown out, the French crop (also known as the Euro crop, which is a combination of a cut with shorter sides and back with longer hair and texture or fringe on top) could be their next go-to if they’re looking to try something new. “Undoubtedly, the French crop has gained substantial popularity among clients,” says Hassan Nasser, owner of Avalon Hair Salon in Calgary and an educator for American Crew. “It offers a brilliant choice for individuals leading active lifestyles and seeking a stylish yet low-maintenance option that doesn't compromise on making a statement.” “I believe it’s gained a lot of attention due to the sharp lines it can create,” adds Corey Bakon (a.k.a. The Cut Coach), a Vancouver-based barber, hairstylist and national educator for John Paul Mitchell Systems. “Additionally, the textured top—when cut correctly—can be quite easy to style for male clients.” 22 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
COMPARED TO A CAESAR CUT, THE FRENCH CROP HAS MORE LENGTH ON TOP AND A LONGER FRINGE, WHICH MAKES IT EASIER TO STYLE.
Low-Maintenance Look While the French crop is a relatively lowmaintenance option when it comes to styling, Nasser says it’s a look that’s all about shape. “The lived-in look allows [the client] to not have to stress about their hair throughout the day,” he says. “However, the cut is heavily reliant on shape, which means clients will need constant touch-ups to maintain the shape and fresh look.” “Since the cut demands frequent visits to the salon or barbershop, this keeps
clients returning regularly,” he adds. “Additionally, by offering styling advice and related products, the salon can boost retail sales, so it’s a win-win for both clients and the business.” When it comes to boosting business in the salon, Bakon says it’s a great way to keep clients, especially men, coming into the salon every two weeks. “In the salon, male clients typically visit every four to six weeks on average,” he says. “Therefore, a salon can significantly increase its income by introducing this
haircut to existing male clientele and adjusting the frequency of their visits.”
TEXT: LUCY MAZZUCCO, HAIR: GEORGE SMITH, TONI & GUY, SALISBURY, U.K. PHOTO: ALEX BARRON-HOUGH, HAIR: TERRI KAY & ANDREA GILES, MARK LEESON, U.K., MAKEUP: CLARE READ, WARDROBE STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES
Mass Appeal Since the French crop is a versatile cut that can work for all genders, Nasser says the cut can be a great way to expand your clientele since it can be customized to suit the specific needs of each individual client. “Adjusting the shape, length, texture and styling based on the client’s preferences and head shape ensures that the style aligns with their identity and style goals.” With nostalgia playing a key role in emerging hair, fashion and beauty trends, Bakon says the French crop is also likely to appeal to those who are drawn to inspiration from the past, which is why this cut has become increasingly popular. “If you go back to the late 1990s and early 2000s, you’ll see similar cuts on a lot of R&B and pop singers,” he says. “It just wasn’t that long—the haircuts were shorter and the fringe was stronger.”
A Cut Above When it comes to achieving this look, Nasser says that it’s important to start from the top to get the iconic square shape. “When cutting a French crop, I try to keep everything lean and square to enhance a strong masculine shape,” he says. “I prefer to start cutting a French crop from the top with my shears or feather razor and work my way down on the sides and back, fading with my clippers. Starting from the top allows me to ensure that I’m keeping enough weight and length for that squared shape.” In terms of perfecting the cut, Bakon says it’s important to use haircutting techniques that enable the stylist to remain in control. “Starting at the crown is going to give you the ability to stay in control of the hair texture,” he says. “If there are any changes in direction that are a little bit challenging or if there’s anything sitting at the top, it will give you an opportunity to adjust the cut around that without exposing anything at the
top of the head. Start at the very top, creating the length—usually two inches is a desired length to start with. You can go shorter once you start to texturize the hair, but start with a two-inch length, straight up at a 90-degree angle from the crown of the head, and work that outward to the parietal region.” While some clients may be eager to try out this trend and are set on getting the cut before they even arrive at the salon, it’s important to discuss the pros and cons during the consultation. “Hair texture and density are definitely going to be important, as well as face shape,” says Bakon. “Just imagine trying to put a French crop on someone with a very wide forehead and a receding hairline. If you put this strong, stark hairline across the front, it’s just going to make them feel or look like they’re losing more hair. So we want to be sensitive to that before we make the suggestion, even if they’re asking for it, and we should be able to make the adjustments to the haircut to make it work for them.” “There’s a wide variety of French crop styles out there,” adds Nasser. “Some can be a lot more aggressive and edgy, while others can be a little more conservative. Finding a style that works for your client is important. You want them to feel empowered and confident when they leave the shop, so a good consultation can go a long way. It can create a blueprint for the style they want to achieve now and in the future.”
PRO TIP THE FRENCH CROP CAN WORK FOR A WIDE RANGE OF HAIR TYPES AND FACE SHAPES. HOWEVER, KEEPING THE SHAPE OF THE CUT SQUARE IS KEY.
“Sometimes you just have to push the envelope a little bit and step outside your comfort zone, and that goes for both the client and the stylist.” — HASSAN NASSER, OWNER OF AVALON HAIR SALON AND EDUCATOR FOR AMERICAN CREW, CALGARY salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 23
AS MORE CLIENTS OPT FOR A DEEPER SHADE THIS SEASON, WE CHECKED IN WITH THE EXPERTS FOR TIPS ON ENHANCING YOUR BRUNETTE TONES. PLUS, GET THE SCOOP ON THE COWBOY COPPER TREND.
From expensive brunette to chocolate brown, the trend of rich, healthylooking hair is going strong. While many consider blonding services to be their moneymaker, now is not the time to overlook the potential with your brunette clients. “For people who think that brown is boring, I don’t think they—especially clients—realize that you can have dimensional brunettes,” says Matthew Michel, a Calgary-based hairstylist and education advisor for Joico. “Expensive brunettes are still trending, with more people being open to warmer shades, like caramels and chocolates, that are nice and neutral, with a little bit of warmth, but are still reflective and bright. More people are realizing that you don’t have to lift hair to a level nine or 10 to add dimension to hair.” “We’ve noticed a big wave of celebrities who’ve gone darker,” adds Sabrina Vallieres, a hairstylist at Nova Beauté in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Que., and Moroccanoil elite color pro, “like Hailey Bieber and Sydney Sweeney. We’re seeing it a lot on social media. These colours are also trending in fashion and interior design.” Going to the Dark Side While some hairstylists and colourists may still feel like it’s a let-down whenever their blonde clients want to go darker, it doesn’t have to be. Adding darker dimension to your blondes or creating lightness in your brunettes can not only help you create more customized results 24 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
PRO TIP BE MINDFUL OF THE COLOUR PLACEMENT, ESPECIALLY AROUND THE HAIRLINE AND ROOT COLOUR, SUCH AS IN A MONEY PIECE OR SHADOW ROOT. SINCE IT’S SO CLOSE TO THEIR SKIN, YOU’LL WANT TO KEEP IT COMPLEMENTARY TO THEIR SKIN TONE AND EYE COLOUR. HOWEVER, YOU CAN BE MORE PLAYFUL WITH COLOUR ON THE ENDS TO CREATE A MORE CONTRASTING EFFECT.
but also maximize business in the salon. “In this era of babylights, teasylights, foilayage and balayage, it becomes really hard to pick out our old placements to touch up the exact same highlight during a refresh appointment,” says Michel. “Inevitably, in the long term, we’re doing a fresh set over and over, and clients are getting overblonded. I think every few appointments, it’s important to add those lowlights back in.” “What I like to do is go in and do my highlights, like I normally would, but add a lowlight between every foil or every other foil,” he adds. “Depending on how much dimension or blonde you
have in there, I would add in a lowlight only through the mid-shaft so you’re not bringing that lowlight all the way down.” Lowlights can also be a great way of adding more dimension to your clients who are continuing to rock babylights. “The thinner the sections, the lighter the hair will be with less dimension,” says Vallieres. “The technique and placement are really important [to avoid overlightening hair]. Keep depth to make highlights pop, and if the client already has highlights, add lowlights. But my favourite way to achieve dimensional brunettes is with a freehand zigzag technique.”
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: HAIR: CANDICE MCKAY, SOUTH AFRICA, MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, PHOTO: JACK EAMES, INSTAGRAM, MOROCCANOIL, JOICO
Hairlines — COLOUR
Dark and Dimensional
“WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER. REMEMBER, WHEN YOU HIGHLIGHT EVERYTHING, YOU HIGHLIGHT NOTHING. THE DARK UNDER YOUR BLONDE IS GOING TO MAKE THOSE HIGHLIGHTS POP AND APPEAR BRIGHTER, SO YOU DON’T WANT TO LOSE THAT DEPTH.” — MATTHEW MICHEL, HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATION ADVISOR FOR JOICO, CALGARY
More Conscious, Less Cautious As warmer tones continue to hold strong, they tend to be a lot more flattering than the cool, ashy tones of the past. However, it’s still important to find your client’s perfect shade by personalizing the consultation to every individual. “I look at their eye colour to see their tone reflects,” says Michel. “I pick colours that are contrasting to that to help enhance their skin tone and eye colour. Holding up swatches to their face and seeing what’s complementary for them is also really helpful.” Whether you’re lowlighting or highlighting to add dimension to the hair, Michel warns against overdoing it. “I don’t like to adjust my client’s natural colour as a shadow root too much because a lot of them want lived-in colour and to extend the time between appointments,” he says. “So why change what they already have when you can incorporate it into your finished look?” “People are so afraid of doing slices these days because we want soft, lived-in colour,” he adds. “When you’re doing babylights, throw in a random slice with your lightener and leave a bigger space between your foils to add some dimension, even with just one slice.” “For brunettes, I like to work differently
and get creative with my techniques, depending on what the client desires,” says Vallieres. “Freehand techniques with balayage and a face frame is usually my go-to.” Cowboy Copper Another trend that’s been rampant on social media is cowboy copper, a combination of copper and auburn tones that has a more muted, natural-looking result. “When coppers were trending in the past, they tended to be a very bright copper, not a natural-looking colour,” says Michel. “[Cowboy copper] is very
natural and doesn’t look like it’s been done in a salon.” To work more efficiently when trying out this trend, Michel adds that it’s important to use your client’s underlying pigments. “If you’re lifting too light, the result is going to be way too copper,” he says. “Lift to a level six or seven with a red-orange or orange underlying pigment since that’s going to give you a nice fade out and a great base to put that colour on to stay reflective.” “I like to combine shades to create cowboy copper,” adds Vallieres. “Don’t put too much red or copper in your formula. Add some natural shades for a more natural-looking result. We know that clients tend to want to go darker around this time of year, so for blondes going to a dark, rich brown, these are my go-tos.” Michel warns against getting caught up in the wave of micro-trends on social media that perpetuate the idea of having “right” and “wrong” ways of achieving a look. “When it comes to customization, everybody is posting these formulas, but I don’t think a lot of people realize that you have different starting points,” he says. “You really need to factor in where you’re starting and where you end up.”
Product Picks Moroccanoil Chocolate Collection These seven rich, decadent shades feature coppery caramel and iridescent rose undertones and are available in the brand’s Color Rhapsody permanent and Color Calypso demi-permanent portfolios.
Moroccanoil Blonde Voyage Clay Lightener This clay-based lightener is ideal for offering more precision for freehand painting techniques while being gentler on hair to preserve its integrity.
Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color Ideal for colouring or glossing, these liquid shades are available in an array of hues, such as natural, warm beige and copper.
Joico Vero K-PAK Color This permanent crème colour is available in a wide range of hues including beige, redcopper and natural tones.
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 25
Paying It Forward
BY LAUREN FARRUGIA
Mentorship is at the heart of the beauty industry. While clients can lean on their stylists and beauty pros for their expertise, knowledge and skill sets, who can beauty pros rely on when they’re in need of those very PRO TIP same things? IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A Finding a good mentor can MENTOR, DON’T WAIT FOR mean all the difference between THEM TO COME TO YOU. FIND finding those answers, improving A STYLIST WHOSE WORK YOU LIKE OR WHO YOU WANT TO skills, furthering careers and even LEARN FROM AND ASK THEM growing the industry. Plus, with FOR THAT SUPPORT! new trends constantly emerging, techniques are evolving, so it’s vital that we share our knowledge with others in the industry to keep it alive and well.
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“I was a mentee because, like other hairstylists, the academic part of school was very difficult for me,” says Dana Lyseng, a Vancouver-based salon owner, hairstylist and top artist for Wella Professionals. “It wasn’t until I had my hands in hair, practising and tactically working on skills, that I really, truly learned and understood my trade. If I had been doing that alone [without a mentor], it would’ve been a very long, overwhelming and diminishing process. The fact that I got to do that with people who had experience, expertise and the ability to shape and grow me was amazing.”
PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK, REEMA JABER
No matter what stage you’re at in your career, it’s always important to have people to turn to for help. We checked in with mentors and mentees to learn about how mentorship helped them on their journeys and how it can help grow the beauty industry and open up new opportunities for career growth.
What Does Mentorship Mean? Mentorship can mean a number of different things to different people, and each mentee might have different expectations and needs for their mentors. However, at its very core, mentorship within the beauty industry means offering a helping hand, as well as your time and attention, to those who ask for it. “To me, a mentor means somebody who’s there for you,” says Reema Jaber, a salon owner, hairstylist and ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional based in Mississauga, Ont. “Someone who’s not just there to provide daily education but who’s there for you if you have an issue with a client, if you need advice on anything related to the industry or even if you need help with a formula.” “Being a mentee isn’t something you have to do,” adds Lyseng. “It’s something you choose to do. Whenever I’m mentoring someone, I take it very seriously and I really understand that the mentee has chosen to be in an environment of support and help. I really value the concept of mentored education, so when someone has chosen that, we have to take it seriously.” For Guylaine Martel, a Quebec-based hairstylist and L’Oréal Professionnel educator, being a mentor means having the experience in the industry to share. “It’s having enough experience in the field, whether it’s for styling, cutting, hair shows, competitions, teaching, content creation, or coaching,” she says. “You need to master all these different aspects. And for mentees, it means job safety, tools, organization, a work structure and a unique know-how.”
mentorship is vital in continuing to grow the beauty industry. as it offers much more than you can learn online or independently. “I think in this industry, unfortunately, we don’t really learn much from hair school,” says Jaber. “We learn a little bit of the foundations, but at the end of the day, the best hairstylists work at salons that they can really, truly grow in. I think [mentorship] is important in this industry because, depending on which salon you work in and which mentor you get, in addition to hard work, that’s what
determines how fast you’ll grow and where your career can take you.” “Mentorship can help stylists grow in many ways,” adds Martel. “It can give them confidence in their work, organization and structure and can help them master all the different steps [it takes to create a look, style or colour].” Amanda DeGiobbi, an Albertabased hairstylist and artistic educator for Matrix, adds that the demand for mentorship is there, but it can sometimes be hard for new stylists to find it. She encourages salon owners and experienced stylists to take a chance on the new generation of beauty pros, despite their lack of experience or clientele, because that’s when they most need a mentor. “I find these new stylists are so eager to learn, watch and grow,” she adds. ➤
Why Mentorship Matters Although we live in a world where information, tips and how-tos are readily available at the click of a button,
“BE PATIENT WITH YOUR MENTEES. WHEN YOU SHOW THEM PATIENCE, IT’S SO MUCH MORE REWARDING BECAUSE YOU GIVE THEM THE CHANCE TO GROW AND YOU GET TO SEE THAT GROWTH.” —REEMA JABER, MISSISSAUGA-BASED SALON OWNER, HAIRSTYLIST AND SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 27
PRO TIP
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the more you practise, the better you’re going to be. Hairstyling is a virtue, and it’s something you need to practise and develop. If you don’t do that, your skills will become stagnant.” Over the past few years, we’ve seen a major shift in the beauty industry regarding how salons are operating. While traditional salon environments remain and facilitating mentorships within those salons can be easier, for those stylists who have chosen to go independent, mentorship remains in demand but can be hard to find. “As an independent stylist, it can be harder to get education and mentorship,” says DeGiobbi. “As someone who has been in the industry for 12 years, the mentorship program [Matrix’s Mentor. Me] I participated in last year was my first opportunity to be mentored. Mentorship for an independent stylist can help you make connections, push your limits, make friends within the industry and learn about opportunities such as competitions, which can otherwise be hard or scary to get involved in.” Sharing Is Caring A common misconception about mentorship and sharing knowledge within the beauty industry is that those you help will become your competition. It’s important to remember that sharing
your knowledge will not only help others but also facilitate your own growth. “I’m someone who really believes in serendipity, so I feel like anybody who comes through my door is supposed to be there,” says Lyseng. “So if they ask for help, we have to give it to them. I’m someone who truthfully, in my heart, believes that those of us who have been taught should teach and that’s the only way to grow the industry. Even if the best hairstylist in the world shared all of their trade secrets, nobody could ever be them or be better than them. The industry as a whole just becomes better.” “I think it’s important to just have love for everybody,” says Jaber. “It’s important to remember that there’s room for everyone and that there are enough clients for everyone. To have the fear of not wanting to mentor because others will become better than you is an old mentality, and I think it’s important to be there for other stylists, whether they work at your salon or not.” “The goal is to help others grow,” she adds. “For me, if a stylist I’ve mentored leaves to open their own salon, I don’t take offence from that. I gave them those
PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK, DANA LYSENG
“I take on apprentices myself, and there’s so much energy and vibrancy with these students and they want to absorb as much knowledge as possible. Of course, they’re going to make a lot of mistakes, but they’re going to be longterm employees for these salons as long as the owners and more experienced staff are willing to do the training and mentor them. Ultimately, that’s what’s going to benefit the industry as a whole.” In addition to helping new stylists develop their skills and knowledge of the industry, mentorship can provide inspiration and motivation to stylists who may feel stuck in their careers, as well as help with setting goals and creating a sense of community within the industry. “The reason why I participated in a mentorship program, and something that other stylists also face, is that being behind the chair for so long, it’s easy to lose motivation,” says DeGiobbi. “We start to second-guess if we should stay in the industry. When I feel that way, I look for outside inspiration. Mentorship helps you think outside of the box and can even open doors for other opportunities within the industry.” “I’m not someone who believes that experience and expertise go hand in hand,” adds Lyseng. “I think that’s true in any industry, but I’m a very big believer in the 10,000-hour rule. I believe that
LYSENG ADDS THAT, WHEN IT COMES TO MENTORING, IT’S IMPORTANT TO HELP YOUR MENTEES THINK CRITICALLY SO THAT THEY CAN DEVELOP THEIR INTUITION. “RATHER THAN ALWAYS GIVING THEM THE ANSWER, IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT TO HELP THEM FIGURE OUT THE ANSWER THEMSELVES,” SHE SAYS. “IT CAN BE HARD BECAUSE YOU ALREADY KNOW THE ANSWER, BUT ASK THEM THE RIGHT QUESTIONS TO HELP THEM GET TO THE SOLUTION.”
tools to make a business and a name for themselves, and I can’t ask for anything more than that.” Martel adds that when she mentors, she shares everything she knows. “There’s a lot of training and meetings that go into mentorship, but there are no secrets,” she says. “I became an educator so I can pass on my passion and expertise while helping to develop any stylist around the world.” From Mentee to Mentor Although it can be easy to forget, even the best mentors and most seasoned stylists were once mentees themselves. Keeping this in mind and reminding yourself of where you started can be a great motivator to becoming a mentor. “Mentorship was something that was done for me,” says Lyseng. “I was an apprentice for three years, so I naturally moved into a salon where I was mentored, and it changed my life.
It created an environment of continual support, education and innovation, and it was something that I cherished then and still do to this day. It changed my life as a hairstylist, and I think it’s really important that you surround yourself with people who help you to become better.” “Even to this day, when I’m creating collections for competitions, I get mentored,” she adds. “Michelle Pargee and I have been great friends for over a decade now, and she’s been there for me for the past couple of Contessa shoots I’ve done. [Having a mentor at any stage of your career] can help push you to be better. We can’t continue to grow if we don’t put ourselves in those kinds of uncomfortable situations.” DeGiobbi shares that, because of her mentorship, she was able to take her career to the next level. “After my mentorship program was finished, I, along with another mentee, got asked
“[MENTORSHIP] IS NOT A LADDER; IT’S A MERRY-GO-ROUND. THE VALUE OF THE TEAM IS WORTH MUCH MORE THAN THE SUM OF THE INDIVIDUAL” — DANA LYSENG, HAIRSTYLIST AND OWNER OF SUPERNOVA SALON, NORTH VANCOUVER
to join the team as educators,” she says. “The mentorship elevated my techniques and skills and opened new doors for me, so now I get to teach and mentor because of it.” “I’ve had so many mentors throughout my career,” adds Jaber. “From previous teachers when I was in hair school to the owner of the first salon I worked at to people I meet to this day, they’ve taught me so much. I really felt like I could trust their opinions, and the genuineness they’ve shown me is what I want to show those who I mentor now.” Facilitating Mentorship When it comes to mentorship, some methods may be more successful than others. Having an open mind and the willingness to teach are both great places to start, but ensuring that you’re doing right by your mentees is most important. “For me, becoming a mentor just kind of happened,” says Jaber. “I was working in a salon and noticed that there just happened to be two or three apprentices around me at all times, asking me questions while I was working on my clients. I love sharing and, at the time, it just came naturally, even though I didn’t even realize what was happening.” “At my current salon, the moment a stylist joins our team, we let them know that, as a senior stylist, it’s their duty to train the assistants and apprentices,” she adds. “Every day, a senior stylist mentors an apprentice, and every day, we rotate. That way, the apprentices get to absorb as much knowledge from as many different people as possible. We also ensure that the apprentices are on the floor, doing hair on or before the one-year mark of them being with us.” Jaber also adds that her biggest advice to mentors out there is to share their knowledge without expectations. Sharing with love, an open mind and an open heart, without expecting anything in return, is a surefire way to be a successful mentor. For Lyseng and her salon, facilitating education plays a big role in how she mentors her team. “We close the salon about three times a year for a whole day and we bring in education that the team wants to see,” she says. “It’s really important that I, as an owner, continually offer opportunities for people to grow if they want those opportunities. The trends are changing ➤ salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 29
Opportunities for Growth Through learning and working under a mentor, you may be looking for new paths and opportunities to take your career to the next level. From competing to teaching, and working with a brand to social media, the opportunities for your career are endless. “The beautiful thing about this industry is that there’s no place for boredom,” says Jaber. “If you feel like you’re ready for a change from working behind the chair, you can start educating, working in hair behind the scenes of television and movies or becoming a full-time content creator, like many in the industry have.” “I would say competing is number one if you want to get your name out there in the world, meet people and grow,” adds Lyseng. “There are industry competitions all year round, and if you want to be on a billboard someday, you need to throw your hat in the ring.” Martel adds that, to her, competing can also help you improve your skills, as well as increase your work ethic. “Competing helps you have a structure, push the creative process to the limit, respect a guaranteed result and manage your emotions, stress and confidence,” she says. “It also helps to work faster and more effectively with perfection, which helps with the work you do in the salon.” There are also many opportunities to work with different brands in the industry and different avenues you can take to play on your strengths. From creating digital content to teaching online courses, from onstage education to live
demos, experts say that the best way to get noticed by a brand is by finding one that you align with and getting them to notice you by attending their classes, tagging them on social media and networking with their existing artists and educators. “Once you find passion in a brand, it gives you the motivation to work with them,” says DeGiobbi. “Once you do that, you can go online and find an educator from that brand in your area and ask questions.” “Being an educator helps you to be
ahead of the trends, learn how to work as a team, push your limits, have structure, understand what happens behind the scenes and understand the product formulas in a professional language,” adds Martel. “When you work with a brand, you embody that brand’s values. The brand makes you shine, and you get to be part of that.”
“I BECAME A MENTOR TO ENSURE THE QUALITY OF THE NEXT GENERATION. I BELIEVE IN THE POTENTIAL OF ANY STYLIST, AND I WANT TO HELP THEM REACH THE TOP.” — GUYLAINE MARTEL, HAIRSTYLIST AND L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATOR, MONT-SAINT-HILAIRE, QUE. 30 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK, GUYLAINE MARTEL
so quickly that we always need to feel current and on the pulse.” “I think the point of mentorship is to help stylists learn from their mistakes while helping them think outside of the box,” adds DeGiobbi. “Show them new possibilities and outcomes that may challenge them, and make sure they aren’t afraid to ask questions.”
embracing
ENTREPRENEURSHIP With a growing demand for independence by beauty pros, we take a deep dive into salon suites and booth and chair renters, with candid stories and tips from five hairstylists across the country.
PHOTO: ADOBE STOCK
BY ALEAH BALAS
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 31
conversation with the owner [of Tru Salon Suites], I was sold and knew it was time to make some big changes.” New-Found Freedom With the economy being a major consideration for this shift, the overall movement has been influenced by a wide variety of factors that have prompted stylists to opt out of the traditional commission-based salon model. Daniella Carreiro, an independent stylist at Pro Beauty Suites based in Mississauga, Ont., cites the pandemic as the kickstart she needed to begin freelancing, with the shutdowns being particularly difficult in that respective region. “Around the last year, before everything started opening up again, was when I decided that I wanted to do something on my own,” she says. “I just felt like it gives you more freedom, and you
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have a lot more say in what you can do.” In fact, freedom is a key factor for many freelancers, noting it as their primary motivation in their shift to being independent. “What freedom means is different to everyone, but for me, [it means] freedom in my schedule,” says Jeremy Wilde, an independent stylist and a Redken ambassador based in Montreal. “Coming in whenever I want, getting out whenever I want, creating a schedule that’s beneficial for my mental health and having that balance in my professional and personal life.” With that said, for many, autonomy doesn’t just mean choosing your work schedule and hours. It also means the ability to dictate your own business endeavours, choose your products, decide where to work, establish what to charge for your services and even pursue other ventures simultaneously.
Brent Chaikowsky, a Calgary-based freelance stylist at Sola Salon Studios, shares that being independent has allowed him to customize and tailor the overall in-chair experience to his clientele—from taking balayage courses from celebrity hairstylists in California that he knows will impress his clients to something as simple as playing jazz music when he knows that’s what his next client loves to listen to. He is now able to effectively cater to the type of service his clients are looking for, giving him an edge in addition to his performance within the competitive landscape. These types of competitive advantages are key, especially when building a loyal clientele. Reality Check It’s not all glamorous, though. Moving to an independent business model can be enticing precisely
PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK
It goes without saying that since the COVID pandemic, there’s been a trend to “be your own boss,” with the allure of working flexible hours while maintaining a healthy work-life balance. But even prior to the pandemic, there was a noticeable shift in the industry to more independent options, with hairstylists from coast to coast leaving salons to venture out on their own. “It has definitely become more popular, not just for hairstylists but for all beauty professionals,” says Ceci Nguyen, a freelance stylist at Tru Salon Suites in Halifax. “Nowadays, most beauty professionals I know run their own businesses.” “I worked for a salon chain in Halifax for three years before venturing out on my own,” she adds. “I had been feeling unfulfilled at my previous workplace, but it didn’t cross my mind to go on my own. After having a
because of this new sense of freedom, but what many fail to understand is the additional considerations they must take before diving into this new domain. “There’s always a learning curve,” says Simon James, a freelance stylist at Style Lab Headquarters and a national artist for Goldwell. “You definitely have to hold yourself a lot more accountable. For some, finding that motivation can be a little bit challenging. When people make the choice to go independent, [they should] find somebody that has been independent for some time. I think it’s really important that you lean on those people for mentorship and be open to information because there’s always something to learn in every venture.”
industry on the whole. While some salon owners are still struggling to get back on track from the pandemic, inflation has caused a whole new set of challenges that are also having an impact on independent stylists. “Everything has gone up [in price], but products have definitely gone up a lot,” says Chaikowsky. “It’s important to always look at your budget—what you’re bringing in and what you’re wanting to spend—and make sure that everything lines up.” While raising your service prices can be enticing in times of economic uncertainty, James notes that there are a lot of dynamics at play. “You really need to be on top of your numbers and ensure that you are not only pricing your services
effectively to ensure profits but also making sure that you’re still in a position to increase your clientele on a consistent basis.” Taking the Leap Perhaps the most important consideration to make before jumping into an independent work model is having a solid clientele. “Make sure that you have a steady clientele because if you don’t, you’re not going to be able to survive on your own,” says Carreiro. Wilde also emphasizes the importance of social media when building your business, which is especially critical for those who are going solo. “Some people think they didn’t become a hairstylist to be a content creator or social media manager, but the
reality is, in today’s industry, it’s part of your job.” It’s worth noting that even if you have considered these pros and cons, and feel that you’re ready, it’s important to have a solid understanding of your skills and take a serious audit of your abilities before jumping in on your own. While many love being independent, and wish they had done it sooner, James has an alternative school of thought. Growing up in salons, with family ties to the industry, James puts a particular focus on the education aspect of a hairstylist’s career span, thinking of it as a longterm plan. “I was actually encouraged to go independent earlier,” he recalls. “My father thought I was doing quite well and had a fairly decent ➤
Knowing the Basics While working in a salon can have its drawbacks, it has the benefit of setting stylists up for success with elements that often go unnoticed, like administrative support, marketing efforts, consistent bookings from salon clients and even payroll. But when you’re on your own, you’re responsible for your own success, so it’s crucial to understand that many of the tasks that were previously done for you can be massive undertakings, especially if they don’t come as naturally as the creative aspects. “Sometimes the smallest bumps in the road can be the highest mountains,” says Wilde. “When it comes to doing taxes and stuff like that, you have to be on it because, if not, it’s going to come back to bite you. It’s happened to me before and also happens to so many people.” Inflation has also been a major concern plaguing the salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 33
Location, Location, Location When it comes to the number of independent hairstylists in Canada, geography plays a huge role in the opportunities that are available for stylists and can have an impact on how successful they may be. Chaikowsky notes that the shift to freelance and salon suites in Calgary started around five or six years ago, whereas James says the popularization of freelancing in Vancouver began nearly two decades ago. He also
adds the distinction of population density as being of particular importance. “When you look into the suburban settings versus the big cities, a lot of times those suburban settings tend to still function really well on a commission model,” says James. “But when you’re going into major urban and economic hubs, you tend to see people shift a little bit more to that independent structure.” While many pros and cons fall into their own separate categories, many can be a double-edged sword. As Nguyen explains, “You are 100 per cent responsible for every part of your business and the success of it, which can be a good thing or a bad thing.” She also cites the financial impact as being both a pro and a con in her eyes, explaining that while it can be great to make extra
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money, you are having cash flow in daily and need to be an expert at managing that type of payment structure to avoid financial slip-ups. Being independent can also affect one’s ability to set boundaries. “Because I make the schedule, it’s harder to say no if a client wants to be squeezed in for an appointment,” she says. “Too
much of this leads to more stress. I’m guilty of this.” As with any decision, it’s best to be prepared and do your research before jumping into anything too quickly. Understanding both the benefits and risks of a new opportunity can allow you to temper your expectations and give yourself the best chance of success.
PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK
skill set. But I chose the long play, which was thinking about the career as a longterm investment. Waiting until you’re incredibly seasoned—or at least incredibly competent in all areas of hairdressing—and gaining as much information, mentorship and education as possible is paramount to success.”
CO LLE CTIO NS
November+December
An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 35
Collections — URBANA
Garnering inspiration from vintage street culture, this British collection showcases a range of retro shapes that have been modernized with edgy cutting and styling techniques to reflect the beauty of individuality.
HAIR Andrea Dorata & Dorata Art Team, Dorata Hairdressing, U.K. MAKEUP Cristina Soar WARDROBE STYLING Andrea Dorata PHOTOS Chris Bulezuik
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 37
Collections — SHAPE SHIFTER
Transforming classic silhouettes with striking colour placement and disconnection, this Canadian collection is a breath of fresh air.
CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver MAKEUP Kristine Lawless WARDROBE STYLING Johanna Libbey PHOTOS Kezia Nathe
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 39
Collections — GLITTER
This Canadian collection combines striking shapes with masterful colour and styling techniques for the perfect range of holiday-ready looks.
CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C.MAKEUP & NAILS Vanessa Pollitt PHOTOS Joan Novak
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 41
Collections — GOOD AS GOLD
Showcasing immaculate editorial styling and finishing, this Australian collection is nothing short of spectacular.
CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST
Mario Fioravanti, MF Salon Privee, Australia MAKEUP Melissa Norris PHOTOS Haley Renee
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Collections — ESSENTIAL LOOKS AUTUMN/WINTER 2023
For Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest Essential Looks collection, the brand’s creative team spotlights three trends—Intention Now, Acid Riot and Re-Rooted—that reflect today’s movements in selfconsciousness, gender inclusion and nostalgia for a range of inspirational and salon-ready styles.
HAIR Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks creative team PHOTOS Schwarzkopf Professional
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 45
Collections — AZURE
This Australian collection embodies femininity and strength with strong cuts, harmonious colour combinations and soft, textured styles.
HAIR Tracey Hughes, Tracey Hughes Education, Australia MAKEUP Shannon Jennings WARDROBE STYLING Heather Murray PHOTOS Amber Toms
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salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 47
The Celebration of the Year!
#ContessaAwards #Contessa2024 48 salonmagazine.ca / May+June 2023
Sunday, November 12, 2023 We stin H arb our Castle, Toronto
Ti c kets o n s a l e n ow C o c k t a i l p a r t y 5 p m - 6 : 4 5 p . m . EST Awa rd s C e re m o ny & G a l a 7 p . m . EST Af te r- Pa r t y 10 : 3 0 p . m . EST
With a sp e cial trib ute to J on Paul H olt an d pre se ntation by Se bastian inte rnational ar tist O m ar A ntonio
S p o n s o r e d by :
GOLD
S I LV E R
A F T E R - PA R T Y S P O N S O R S
E D U C AT I O N S P O N S O R
salonmagazine.ca / May+June 2023 49
Alix Taylor While many hairstylists decide to explore career options in the industry after high school, Vancouver-based hairstylist Alix Taylor is the perfect example of how creating a career in the industry can happen at your own pace and in your own time. “In high school, I worked at my friend’s mom’s salon and I always loved it, but my parents were really set on me getting a standard college or university experience,” says Taylor. “Hair was always something that I wanted to do but never pursued. When I moved to Vancouver, it was a fresh start for me, and I found a salon [Supernova Salon, in North Vancouver], that was willing to educate me and help me with taking on clients.” “I had a background in business and makeup, which, I believe, gave me the
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foundation to be a stylist,” she adds. “Although going into an apprenticeship was difficult for me, since I was starting at a later age than others, it was still the better option because of the hands-on, client-facing experience.” Proving Herself After entering a few single-look competitions, Taylor says she decided to enter the Contessas to prove to herself that she could work on something from start to finish. “The other competitions only required one photo or one look to enter, so I wanted to create my first full collection,” she says. “After going to the live Contessa Awards last year, it really motivated me to continue competing because I got to meet some really amazing stylists, who have become my
Staying Inspired A sentiment that many new hairstylists share is the importance of having a mentor, who can really help in the early stages of your career. “I started off as Travis Battaglia’s apprentice, and he has turned into my best friend,” says Taylor. “He’s always there for me, and whenever I have an idea, I can share it with him. We plan together and he even comes to my photo shoots for emotional support, which is amazing to have. He’s been a staple in pushing me to where he knows I’m capable of going.” “I’ve also been mentored by Michelle Oliver, who’s great to work with,” she adds. “I think a mentor is the best thing you can have in this career. If you’re looking for one, find someone who inspires you and ask for their help. A lot of stylists have been in our position before, and there’s no harm in asking for that help.” Taylor also shares that, for younger stylists, education is the best way to stay inspired and grow in the industry. “Learning a new technique and having the confidence to go into the salon to do it is the best feeling,” she says. “I worked in an education salon, so I was lucky, but I know some salons don’t enforce it enough. I believe providing those new stylists with extra educational opportunities is going to keep them in the industry.”
TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, HAIR: ALIX TAYLOR, SUPERNOVA SALON, NORTH VANCOUVER, B.C., MAKEUP: HANNAH COE, PHOTOS: JOAN NOVAK
Contessa Gallery — CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, EMERGING HAIRSTYLIST
friends, and the competition process really helps fuel my creativity because I get to do different things than I do every day behind the chair.” For her 2023 Emerging Hairstylist collection, Taylor was inspired by bright colours and wanted to create a collection that played on “birds of paradise,” so she created a collection called Girls of Paradise. “I’m very inspired by bright colours,” she says. “They’ve always been my thing, especially when it comes to working with models. I wanted to do something different for each of my models, and I wanted to play with different colours but ones that were complementary to their skin tone, complexion and hair colour. I really tried to create looks that would go best with each individual model but still wanted to have fun with the colours.”
“Competing allows you to experience that creativity that you were looking for when you first decided to enter the industry.” salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 51
Business —
Changing the Game Are traditional salon business models running their course? We get the lowdown from industry experts and coaches with their takes on some of the most innovative trends (and disruptors) in managing your business.
Flex Benefits Since the pandemic, the importance of having a work-life balance has been paramount for many stylists. While some are still happy to double-book and work long hours to generate extra income, others realize the toll it’s been taking on their physical and mental health. To help stylists work flexible hours without disrupting their salon’s flow, some owners are implementing shared styling stations to accommodate their part-time staff and offering extra incentives, such as unlimited time off, to empower their stylists to make their own schedules. 52 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
“Some owners think that stylists won’t work if they have unlimited time off,” says Cyd Charisse, co-founder of Destroy The Hairdresser. “It’s such a fear-based belief system, but what we’ve actually seen is that productivity is so much higher. For example, a stylist might work two 12-hour days and take the rest of the week off.” To ensure that offering unlimited time off doesn’t disrupt the flow of your business, Charisse says it’s important to always be hiring. Since some salons may have stylists who work five days a week and others who work one day a month— depending on their personal preferences and other commitments—sharing stations can be effective in ensuring that
there’s a constant flow of clients in your chairs. “If the stylist doesn’t have a client booked, they can go home,” says Charisse. “Oftentimes, stylists will just sit there and wait for clients or walkins, but our world can’t work like that anymore.” With that said, it’s also important to be proactive about these ideas and not consider them to be a band-aid solution to a larger issue. “These are often treating the symptoms instead of treating the root cause,” says Everett. “The root of the issue is, do you have something inside your business [that we call] a ‘code of honour’? It’s a set of rules that your entire team agrees
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: ADOBE STOCK
As the old adage goes, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” The problem is, for many salons navigating today’s changing landscape, it is, in fact, quite broken. Many salons are losing the great war—money, clients and even staff—for a multitude of reasons. While some may blame the pandemic or inflation, others are looking within themselves and their businesses to see how they can address some of these issues at their core. “For owners, one of the biggest challenges is that it’s more competitive than ever, so they’re not only fighting with other salons to hire staff but also fighting with other jobs that are easy for staff to do and with independents, who want to go out on their own,” says Jason Everett, co-founder of the High Performance Salon Academy, based in Roseville, Calif. “There’s a lot of poor leadership going on out there, so a lot of stylists are burnt out and looking for something better but end up going out on their own because they don’t want to work for another bad leader.”
to operate by. The difference is that when you have issues, instead of resolving them with a global policy for everybody, you create a new border and new set of rules. These rules are set up by the owner and the team at the same time, and they can help employees stay longer—the right employees will stay and the wrong employees will go.” “Instead of just giving people what they want, it has to be good for the stylist, guest and owner,” he adds. “Unlimited time off is good for the stylist, and the assumption is that it will eventually benefit the business because it keeps the stylist happy, but that’s not always the reality.”
Higher Demand, Higher Prices While increasing or changing your prices has always been up for debate, the importance of having a solid pricing structure is key. Whether you offer hourly or à-la-carte pricing, the idea of implementing Uberstyle pricing—with some days and times that are priced higher than others—is an innovative way of offering flexibility while maximizing revenue. For Everett, he refers to this pricing model as “Prime Pricing” and says it may offer the flexibility that stylists are looking for. “Some coaches are preaching about not forcing staff to work on Saturdays or to even be closed on a Saturday,” he says. “The reality is, guests want to come in on a Saturday, so how do you make sure staff is incentivized to work on a Saturday? Implementing higher prices for evenings and weekends gives staff a choice of working in higher-priced, prime windows of time to earn a bit more, which also makes the salon more money.” “Everybody is trying to be affordable, but I don’t think that needs to be the goal,” adds Charisse. “We’re hitting different economic brackets as we raise our prices, and that’s okay if your clients can’t always afford you.” Before making pricing changes, Everett warns that it’s important to carefully consider the pros and cons, and how these changes will impact your business. “Any time you create and roll out something new, have leadership teams in place to test things out and vet things while working with your team so they understand and support the ideas,” he says. “Raising pricing incorrectly can damage your reputation, so get advice from people who have done this before.” Tech Now With so many advancements in technology, salon software has come a long way in providing detailed insights into your business.
For Phorest Salon Software, the brainchild stems from when its founder, Ronan Perceval, was working as a receptionist in a Dublin salon more than 20 years ago. “This was a long time ago, so they weren’t using any software,” says Perceval. “It was just a pad of paper, and it was my job to book appointments. I noticed how many no-shows we were getting. I added up how much they were worth and it was like $20,000 a year. It’s a lot of money, so I suggested that we send clients a text message reminder for their appointments. I got a friend to build a piece of software and within about four weeks, we got rid of nearly all of our no-shows.” Today, Phorest works with thousands of salons around the world to provide key insights into your business and help with everything from managing appointments and point-of-sale, to offering in-depth reporting and more. For Michael Anthony, director of operations for RedBloom Salons, which has four locations in Calgary, he says working with Phorest has been a gamechanger. “We’re blown away by how much data is available in one single platform,” he says. “The information and insights we can get on the operations of each salon location is staggering. We have insights into the productivity of every stylist and every location. We also set up our own KPIs on things like salon usage rate, prebooking rates, stylist utilization, profitability, retail sales and average ticket pricing.” While RedBloom has only been working with Phorest for two years, Anthony says they’ve been tapping into the full range of features and are using the software’s services to handle everything from scheduling to point-of-sale. “All of our point-of-sale checkout experience is run through Phorest to track our transactions, save credit card info on file, manage our loyalty program and all of our online bookings,” he says. “From a management perspective, it allows us to be a lot more efficient in our operations.”
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 53
From being a freelance hairstylist to working behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week to racking up two million followers on TikTok, Matt Newman (a.k.a. @MattLovesHair) opens up about how he got his start and shares his top tips for creating relevant—and relatable—social media content. BY LAUREN FARRUGIA
Tell us about yourself and how you got your start in the beauty industry. A lot of different moving parts came together to make me want to jump into this industry. I got an undergraduate degree and did the traditional university education. I went to go out into the workforce through an internship, but it never really felt like a good fit for me. I always encouraged my boyfriend at the time to go to hair school because we both had a big interest in it and I always thought that he could go because he didn’t have an undergraduate degree and I couldn’t because I had one. We parted ways, and it dawned on me that I could do it, too, and just because I spent four years getting my degree, it doesn’t mean that I don’t deserve to get to follow a different path. I decided to make the change and signed up for beauty school in Manhattan because I always wanted to live in New York. While I was in beauty school, I saw a posting for a hairstylist and makeup artist to work on an independent film. I was signed up to take a makeup course on the side, and I knew I wanted to work as a hairstylist who worked in fashion and behind the scenes on set. Beauty school was preparing me for a salon career, so I thought this job would be a good experience. I had no idea what I was doing; we filmed in the director’s apartment and they expected me to know how to do everyone’s hair and makeup. I just kind of did it, and that was the start of my freelance career throughout beauty school. This experience didn’t turn into a portfolio builder, but it did show me that I absolutely loved working in 54 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
production, so I didn’t jump right into a salon because I knew I would be there all day, every day. Instead, I worked at a blow-dry bar because it offered me the flexibility to do freelance work on the side and allowed me to practise and perfect my blow-drying technique since I knew I needed to know how to do that to work on set. What’s the secret to working backstage or on set? Anything to keep in mind that people may not be aware of? Firstly, once you’re in the scene, the best thing you can do is to be very professional. I know I’m not everybody’s cup of tea, and I didn’t always fit in because I don’t really have that “cool factor” that exists in the New York fashion world. However, I always kept it really professional, and you could not complain about that, so no matter how much I didn’t fit in, I kept my head down, was always available, showed up on time and was always respectful. All of those little things matter. If you’re looking to break into set and fashion work, you need to find those free, bottom-level opportunities. Not everybody is willing or can afford to do that, but you have to put your ego aside and do some sort of work for free at some point to build your portfolio and put your name out there. It’s also a great way to make connections with other photographers, actors and makeup artists. You have to build your arsenal of images, and connecting with these creatives can help you with that. Starting out with groups of creatives who want to make images and videos
for themselves gives you something to show for yourself. How were you able to make the change from being a freelance stylist to growing such a large audience on social media and doing the work you do now? I struggled. The whole time I worked in fashion—and I say this all the time because it’s important to share this part—I struggled financially. I had a lot of exciting opportunities that made me feel fulfilled creatively and I lived in one of the most expensive cities—so my career did support me—but I never hit a major payoff. It was 10 years of having six months of a great-paying job and then six months of all low-paying work. At the time, I felt like I was paying my dues and making a name for myself in the fashion world. Social media wasn’t a huge thing for me at the beginning of my fashion work and you couldn’t really record anything on set, so I got into a mindset of social media being passé, but then COVID hit and everything came to a screeching halt. There was nothing to do, and I posted a random video of my neighbours doing a TikTok dance on their roof and it went viral, which is so not my style, but I posted it. Over a week, it got a couple million views and I got a good number of followers. I started with internet humour, but it wasn’t my thing, and that’s when I started doing hair videos. I kept trying new ideas every day. Nothing was sticking, so I made a video on a hack about dry shampoo and serum, which went viral. From there, I kept it going. I’ve been pushing out one to three pieces of organic content a day since then. What are some of the biggest lessons you’ve learned while working as a freelance stylist? How have you applied those to your career today? Everything I’m doing now stems from my freelance work. While I was
PHOTOS: MATT NEWMAN, INSTAGRAM
Profile — MATT NEWMAN
Social Media Sensation
freelancing, I was supporting myself by working with real people on the side and giving them blowouts. Those clients were looking to achieve everyday hairstyles, so I chatted with real women every day, all day, for 10 years about why they struggle with [styling] their own hair. Through this, I really learned about the things that people struggle with daily, and that’s where my content and tips come from. All of those things that our clients say to us over the years and all of the things that they struggle with are great things to share online or with other clients because if you want to connect with real people, that’s what they’re concerned about. Why is simplifying haircare for clients important to you? How can doing this help other stylists build better relationships with their clients? I meet hairstylists all the time who share with me that they don’t have the
time to make content the same way I do, and I completely understand that. However, if you can carve out the time for it, being an online presence in your clients’ lives every day, they become dependent on you and trust you and go to you for answers on hair. Even if you aren’t aiming to build a bigger audience online and you just want to connect with your existing audience and clientele, it’s so worth it. Educating clients and your social media audience is so important. They don’t just want to see how you use the product; they want to know how they can use it on themselves, which can be such a different thing. I think the takeaway from that when working in the salon is that if you want to increase product sales, don’t just put the product on your clients. Educating them on how and why to use it on themselves is much more important than educating them on how you’re using the product on them.
What are some of your top tips for stylists who are looking to improve their social media presence or stand out among the abundance of content? Talk directly to the camera. Don’t hide behind sped-up content of your clients. Talk to the camera, even if it’s not with your client. Nothing connects you to people online like talking directly to them. It’s hard, but, as hairstylists, we have this special skill of having a stranger sit in our chair and making those connections. Talk to your camera like you’re talking to a client. What advice do you have for the younger generation of stylists who are just starting out in the industry? Why would you encourage them to choose a career in hair? It’s a hard career, but it’s rewarding. It gets better. It’s very cliché, but nothing will be as hard as your first five years because you’re learning a whole new way of interacting with people. You’re now a service provider—an arbiter of style and taste—and you have people coming to you for these things. It’s tricky to learn a whole new way of managing people. It’s okay in your first couple of years to stay in your comfort zone, in terms of what services you offer, because you need to do what it takes to be comfortable with your clients and your work environment, then you can start growing. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 55
Interiors — THE PINK LABEL
Discover the inspiration behind this Vancouver Island-based salon and why the owner wasn’t afraid to colour outside the lines.
Pink Paradise BY LAUREN FARRUGIA
56 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
PHOTOS: SONJA SPAETZEL
Salon owner and colourist Chantel Cody wanted anything but ordinary for her salon, The Pink Label, which she opened in 2021. Following a time of darkness and negativity
due to the pandemic, Cody decided to take a colourful approach to its design. “When the pandemic hit, it was really a time for selfreflection,” she says. “I was asking myself if I should
continue as a hairstylist or switch careers. Through this, I came to the realization that I really do love my job, and the change I needed was having my own unique spin on a salon.”
“I’ve always known in the back of my mind that I wanted to have my own space,” she adds. “I love to create, and to have a unique space that was built how I wanted it was always my dream.” ➤
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 57
Standing Out Located in the heart of Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island, The Pink Label has been designed to stand out among other businesses in the area. “Because we’re on the West Coast, a lot of the businesses are very Bohemian inspired with a lot of wood, white and neutral elements,” says Cody. “That design is beautiful, but I wanted to stand out and do something very different. I’m always very inspired by little boutiques and cafés in the city that are monochromatic or brightly coloured, and that, in my opinion, radiates joy. I figured, why can’t a salon be that way? I thought I could create a bright and colourful space that appealed to everyone but also pushed the envelope.” According to Cody, she chose the colour pink because it’s a happy and calming 58 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
colour. “If I was walking by an all-pink space, I would automatically smile,” she says. “Because I wanted everything pink, it was hard to find the right pieces for the space. Everything in the salon was custom-made by our contractor, except for the chairs and sinks. Pink chairs were really hard to come by, too, because I didn’t want a Barbie pink but more of a soft, neutral pink.” Never Giving Up Before starting the construction process, Cody found her dream space, but at the time, it was occupied. “I reached out to the business that was there and I just let them know that if they wanted to get out of their lease to let me know,” she says. “It took a few months, but in December [of 2020], he told me he was interested in me taking over. After I found
DETAILS Opened in 2021 SIZE 500 square feet TEAM 2 BRANDS L’Oréal Professionnel Kevin.Murphy Redken WEBSITE thepinklabel.squarespace.com SOCIAL @thepinklabelsalon
the space and was able to get in there, it was a complete gut job. It was a café before I got the space, so everything had to come out, from the paint to the flooring. We had to get rid of everything.” Since the space is just under 500 square feet, Cody and her interior designer, Alana Dick from Ivory Design Co., along with Cody’s friend and contractor, Jayme Langen from Paradigm Contracting, had to get creative when it came to creating a functional layout. “I have a backroom that’s set up for me to do colour, as well as a nicely organized backbar and stand-behind sinks, which were a musthave for me,” says Cody. “The plumbing with these sinks had its challenges, but I think the combination of the stand-behind sinks, the backroom and the way our backbar is set up makes it all
flow really well together.” “The curved wall in the reception area, as well as the retail shelves, are two of my favourite areas of the salon
because of how unique they are and because you don’t normally see anything like them,” she adds. “The space brings me so much joy,
and every day that I step in here, I’m so excited to work. I feel like there’s a whole lot of love in the space, and it’s perfect.”
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 59
THE CONTESSA 2024 FINALISTS! Canadian Hairstylist Erin Fernandes, Bon Bon Salon, London, Ont. Daniel Grieco, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Jagoda Hall, Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa, Ont. Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont. Michelle Oliver, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta. Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, Ont. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Canadian Salon Team Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, B.C. Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Salon Deauville, Montreal, Que. Salon Pure, Montreal, Que. Salon Sans Bon Sens, Montreal, Que. Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Vanity House, London, Ont. Canadian Colourist Quinn Enright, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta. Erin Fernandes, Bon Bon Salon, London, Ont. Daniel Grieco, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Victoria MacInnis, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. Jessica McColm, Freelance – Jessica McColm, Edson, Alta. Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Elite Master Hairstylist Cindy Duplantis, Chatters Hair Salon, Mississauga, Ont. Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont. Robin LaChance, Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. Lisa Schoor, Instages Salon, Winnipeg, Man.
Collaboration Patrick Hupe & Karyne McKean Heidi Kenney, Francis Bouchard & Derrick Rutherford Michelle Pargee & Joan Novak Julio Rodriguez & Michael Dubuc Antoine Vadacchino, Kevin Chi, Marie-France Lessard & Vanessa Secondino Emerging Colourist Michael Boudreault, Kevins-Kyle Le Studio, Mirabel, Que. Chelsea Dogan, Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Sayyeda Mulla, Xtophers Salon, Richmond, B.C. Emerging Hairstylist Hagar Ennin, Delmar College, Calgary, Alta. Shohreh Kavari Boushehri, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, B.C. Noure Manchakian, Au Premier Coiffure Spa, Montreal, Que. Melfinna Tjugito, Beau.Salon, Vancouver, B.C. Sharday Walker, Hairology Studio, Winnipeg, Man. Men’s Hairstylist Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto, Ont. Éric Charpentier, Coiffure Blunt, Montreal, Que. Gregory Dennis, The Black Comb Barbershop and Shave Parlours, Blenheim, Ont. Andrew Hewlett, Studio Fontana - Hewlett Hair, Toronto, Ont. Marilyn Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. Multicultural Hairstylist Karine Bélanger, Karine Styliste Salon, Montreal, Que. Shohreh Kavari Boushehri, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, B.C. Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont. Martin Menard, Salon La Loge, Québec, Que. Lukas Press, Lukas Press Hair Studio, Toronto, Ont. Session Hairstylist Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto, Ont. Erin Fernandes, Bon Bon Salon, London, Ont. Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa, Ont. Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont. Jessica McColm, Freelance – Jessica McColm, Edson, Alta.
Master Colourist Tina Casciato, Renaissance Salon & Estetica, St. Catharines, Ont. Kyle Gould, Suki’s, Vancouver, B.C. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Denise Meikle, Salon Origins, Vancouver, B.C. David Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.
Texture Hairstylist Annie Boucher, Kapillar Studio, Saint-Mathieu-de-Beloeil, Que. Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto, Ont. Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont. Lukas Press, Lukas Press Hair Studio, Toronto Jessica Purmal, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, B.C.
International Hairstylist David Barron, Barron's London Salon, Atlanta, GA Danilo Giangreco, Danilo Hair Boutique, London, UK Danny Pato, D&M Hair Design, Auckland, New Zealand Allen Ruiz, Ruiz Salon, Austin, TX Mark Van Westerop, Pro Solo, Alkmaar, Netherlands
British Columbia Hairstylist James Abu-Ulba, Method Education, Langley Jag Moussa, JagHed Couture, Victoria Sayyeda Mulla, Xtophers Salon, Richmond Jessica Purmal, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Alix Taylor, In.Blume Salon, North Vancouver
Avant Garde Hairstylist Michael Dubuc, Salon Style M, Saint-Charles-deDrummond, Que. Kathleen Kelso, L'étrange, Beaupré, Que. Lukas Press, Lukas Press Hair Studio, Toronto, Ont. Mamak Tabatabaei, Red Carpet Hair Salon Inc., Toronto, Ont. Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Deauville, Montreal, Que.
Alberta Hairstylist Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Courtney Chung, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Lisa Crawford, Crawford Master Stylists Ltd., Sherwood Park Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Calgary Jessica McColm, Freelance – Jessica McColm, Edson
60 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
Saskatchewan/Manitoba Hairstylist Rachel Kilgour, Verde Salon, Winnipeg, Man. Ashley Ruecker, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask. Lisa Schoor, Instages Salon, Winnipeg, Man. Tanja Unrau, Hairology Studio, Winnipeg, Man. Josie Vilay, Hairology Studio, Winnipeg, Man. Ontario Hairstylist Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon, Stouffville Erin Fernandes, Bon Bon Salon, London Lauren Green, LGHairstyles, Aylmer Ashley Lindsay, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener Quebec Hairstylist Francis Bouchard, Salon Sans Bon Sens, Montreal Michael Dubuc, Salon Style M, Saint-Charles-deDrummond Kathleen Kelso, L'étrange, Beaupré Martin Menard, Salon La Loge, Québec Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Deauville, Montreal Atlantic Hairstylist Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Amanda Hodgson, Spirit Spa, Halifax, N.S. Alicia Langille, Alicia Langille Hair Art, Halifax, N.S. Sharon LeClair, Shades of Pink Hair Studio, Bedford, N.S. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. Canadian Nail Artist Angelica Francia, NAIL FIX in THE 6IX, Toronto, Ont. Olga Khazova, Educational Beauty Center by Olga Khazova, Medicine Hat, Alta. Cathy Torres, Amicis, Kelowna, B.C. Makeup Artist Josianne Bourque Veilleux, Salon La Loge, Québec, Que. Samina Chaudhry, Samina’s Hair and Makeup Studio, Kitchener, Ont. Marika D’Auteuil, Marika D’Auteuil, Montreal, Que. Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Calgary, Alta. Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Freelance, Montreal, Que. Salon Interior Design ATELIER 731, Montreal, Que. Kevin Kyle Le Studio, Mirabel, Que. Salon Le Host, Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures, Que. Salon Olivine, Lethbridge, Alta. The Pink Label, Qualicum Beach, B.C. The John Steinberg Award for Community Service Aveda Institute Winnipeg, Winnipeg, Man. Craft Academy Salon, Vancouver, B.C. Salon Maxime Inc., Québec, Que.
Check out salonmagazine.ca/contessa to view the Freestyle finalists, finalist collections and to purchase tickets to the 35th annual Contessa Awards gala on November 12, 2023, in Toronto!
— The event’s opening reception was hosted by Moroccanoil’s vice-president of global education, Robert Ham, and featured a spectacular stage presentation by global artistic director Kevin Hughes that showcased the brand’s new chocolate hair-colour shades.
Events —
| The grand finale featured the five finalists in Moroccanoil’s global hair competition and showcased their models onstage. Attendees had a chance to vote for their favourite. Congratulations to Nicole Healey from Northern Ireland on winning the grand prize of US$10,000, plus a chance to work with the brand’s team at Eurovision on photo shoots and more.
Highlights from Moroccanoil The Collective
— Held at the Conrad Las Vegas at Resorts World, the festivities kicked off with a pool party at Ayu Dayclub, where attendees mixed and mingled as they basked in the sunshine and danced to beats by a live DJ/violinist.
Nearly 1,000 hairstylists from more than 20 countries travelled to “Sin City” for the inaugural Moroccanoil The Collective, a three-day inspirational and educational event. When & Where: September 10 to 12, Las Vegas —
PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL
In an unexpected twist, Ham, Hughes and the brand’s global creative director Antonio Corral Calero also took the stage to re-enact the making of The Collective in a hilarious showcase with dancers, models and an onstage photo shoot!
| The event also included a wide range of educational opportunities, with artistic and business sessions that featured breakout classes with some of Moroccanoil’s global ambassadors (including the brand’s Canadian global colour ambassador, Lisa Dinh), along with Greg Gilmore, Jessica Scott Santo, Gareth Williams, Rachel Williams and more. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 61
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Events —
In addition to a community area where attendees could learn more about Kao products and upcoming launches, academy stage sessions were held by some of the company’s top artists, including Canada’s very own Krysten-Ashley Garrod.
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Scott Guinter, general manager for Kao USA Salon Division, shared his opening remarks before Dominic Pratt, president of Kao Salon Division, took the stage with a welcome message for the attendees.
Canadians Win Big at Kao Salon Global Experience 2023! Hundreds of hairstylists and beauty pros from more than 37 countries travelled to Chicago for Kao Salon Global Experience 2023. When & Where: September 24 to 25, Chicago
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PHOTOS: KAO SALON DIVISION
The next day, artist sessions were held by some of Kao’s leading artists, including the Creatives of North America, featuring Frank Cini and Daniel Naumovski of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto and Quebec-based hairstylist Didier Lachapelle.
62 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
— In addition to the awards presentation, show-stopping stage shows were presented by Kao creative partners Rush Hair and ambassadors Mario Krankl and Angelo Seminara, who premiered his latest collection, Hair Every Wear 3.0.
The national winners for Creative Colorist, New Talent Colorist and Creative Haircutter of the Year participated in the event’s annual live global competition to recreate their winning looks.
— To kick off the Global Creative Awards, dancers hit the stage for a spectacular Chicagothemed opener.
| | For Salon Team of the Year, it was a clean sweep by Canadians, with Industry Hair & Esthetics in St. Catharines, Ont., winning gold, Salon Cyan in London, Ont., winning silver and Renaissance Salon & Estetica in St. Catharines, Ont., taking home bronze. — Among this year’s judges were Salon’s editorial director, Veronica Boodhan, and Contessa-winning hairstylist Michael Shire.
salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 63
— On the main stage, artists and speakers from around the world shared their technical and creative expertise, offering valuable insights into current hair trends and teaching attendees how to craft high-fashion hairstyles that could be easily recreated in their salons for their clients.
— Aveda’s global artistic team led a presentation that showcased some of the latest trends with cutting-edge styles and live demonstrations.
— The first day of Aveda Congress closed with a three-part presentation by Aveda’s global creative director and senior vicepresident of creative, Antoinette Beenders, who showcased her awardwinning collection, which was in collaboration with X-presion Creativos, and her long-lasting collaborations with sustainable-fashion designers Stella McCartney and Iris van Herpen.
A Recap of Aveda Congress 2023 Salon owners, hairstylists and beauty pros travelled to Minneapolis to immerse themselves in Aveda’s latest advancements in artistry and global hair trends, as well as the brand’s plantpowered innovations.
| | The final day of Aveda Congress kicked off with a collaborative presentation by Aveda’s global artistic director, Allen Ruiz, and the North American artistic team, who demonstrated the techniques used to recreate the Modern Mosaics collection by Ruiz.
64 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
Renée Gadar, who leads the brand’s texture team, also graced the stage to emphasize the importance of being able to offer services for clients with diverse hair types and how this can benefit salon owners’ businesses. The team’s presentation featured tips for crafting high-fashion braided styles for clientele.
| Aveda Japan’s creative director, Masa Honda, presented an avant-garde hair colour and styling demonstration, which was inspired by the natural connection of light and dark hues observed in the natural world.
PHOTOS: AVEDA, SALON STAFF
When & Where: September 23 to 26, Minneapolis
— To welcome guests to the second day of the show, Modern Beauty Supplies’s chief operating officer, Amer Jomaa, shared his opening remarks. For Danger Jones, Winnipeg-based hairstylist and international platform educator Kelly O’Leary and Regina-based hairstylist and educator Kayla Deics were joined by Vancouver-based hairstylist Michael Levine and California-based hairstylist Doug Theoharis to showcase looks ranging from colour-blocking and rainbow hair to cutting layers and bobs. |
| Alberta-based hairstylist and Wella team artist Lauren Wilde was joined by Quebec-based stylist and educator Remi-Cardin and Wella USA ambassador Briana Cisneros to show attendees how to style colour-blocking hair in a range of styles, from braids to beachy waves.
An Inside Look at Modern Rocks the Runway 2023 More than 1,500 Canadian hairstylists and beauty pros travelled to Grey Eagle Casino in Calgary for the return of Modern Rocks the Runway. The two-day education event was held for the first time in five years! |
When & Where: October 1 and 2, Calgary Joico’s global artistic director, Richard Mannah, and New Brunswickbased hairstylist and platform artist Melissa Duguay took the stage to speak on the importance of mentorship, as well as how to create mullets and colour curly hair and editorial styles. |
For Moroccanoil, global colour ambassador and Toronto-based hairstylist Lisa Dinh showcased her express foil service. Dinh was joined onstage by the brand’s U.S. team members, Rachel Williams and Shelby Ann. Supporting the team backstage was the brand’s global artistic director, Kevin Hughes, and global vice-president of education, Robert Ham.
PHOTOS: TK
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| The Schwarzkopf Professional Canada team took the stage next to showcase the brand’s latest Essential Looks collection, as well as its Colour Boot Camp. The team of Canadian artists and educators included Joey Marchese, Michelle Oliver, Jessica McColm, Quinn Enright, Shawna Russell and Josie Vilay, who showcased both styling and colouring onstage.
Hosted by Modern Beauty Supplies, the event kicked off with a cocktail party before Chris Appleton, celebrity hairstylist and global creative director of Color Wow, took the stage. He demonstrated how to recreate some of his most iconic looks seen on stars such as Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez, Ariana Grande and more. salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023 65
Throughout this year, Sharon Blain, an educator and Australian-based hairstylist of more than 55 years, has been busy with her final world tour, making stops on five different continents! We spoke with Blain when she was in Toronto for her class at Wella Studio to learn more about her decision to stop touring, the importance of ongoing education and some of her biggest secrets to a long and successful career in the industry.
This is your final world tour. Can you tell us why you’ve decided that now is a good time to step away from teaching? I felt that travel was very difficult during COVID. I got to the point where I had to ask myself if this was something I want to be doing because it became really stressful. Before that, I loved getting on a plane and going places, but the travel side of things has become hard. Also, at my age, travelling with massive suitcases, I felt like there was so much more I could do for the industry without travelling. I still have this mindset that I have to pass my skills on to the next generation. There aren’t a lot of people teaching at my age. It’s vital that the older generation of stylists continue to pass these skills on to the next generation or the skills will die with us. This led me to my next project, which is a book I’ve written called The Confident Stylist, and I just wrote down pretty much everything I’ve taught. I’m happy that I got my thoughts about all of these topics—perming, waves, blowdrying, etc.—down on paper. I’ve left that legacy out there as well. I feel sad to give up teaching [internationally]. I don’t even know if I’m quite ready yet, but I think by the time I finish this tour, I know I’ll need a break. I’m going to be more selective about where I teach. If someone is in an area of the world that’s on my bucket 66 salonmagazine.ca / November+December 2023
list and asks me to teach a class, I’ll do it, but I’m just going to try to enjoy my life a little more. I won’t be stopping and I won’t stop using my hands, skills and knowledge, but it will be done in a different way. I know you’re a very big advocate for education in the beauty industry. Can you tell us about why you think education is so important and how it’s helped you in your career? I’m a self-taught stylist because of the town I trained in and the period of time it was. There was no school for me to train at, so I had to teach myself. I’ve got all of my qualifications based on me paying for classes and getting my licence that way. It’s been a tough journey for me and my learning, but I think that’s what made me realize how important learning is. When you don’t go to college, you realize that you have to work a little harder to be good at what you do—or at least that was my mindset. I think the education that students are getting now isn’t intense enough, so it worries me a little bit for the future of the industry. I’m a real advocate for trying to make sure that those who are doing their training learn to do things really well instead of just getting a tick for an attempt. We need to make sure that the education from schools and
colleges is really strong and useful. If you don’t sign up for a couple of classes a year in the areas in which you’re interested in, it’s not going to be long before you feel worn out and tired. It’s up to you—no one can drive you to be better. You’re in the driver’s seat and responsible for where you end up. What advice do you have for stylists who want to start teaching or creating their own curriculums? I think the best way is to align with a brand and try to get into their artist programs. You might only start out as an assistant, but the more you’re around good, strong educators, the more you learn. Align with a company you like, and knock on their door. But don’t come in as a one-trick pony. You’ve got to come to them with personal confidence, be able to write and plan your schedules and be articulate in your presentations. There are so many areas in teaching and education where you have to be strong to be accepted. Once I realized that I was a market and a brand, I started taking on small groups of people and it slowly evolved from there. I started getting calls from brands to train their teams, which is when I realized I could make a business out of it. It’s not going to happen overnight.
TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, PHOTO: SHARON BLAIN
Profile — SALON STORIES
The End of A Global Era
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