Salon Magazine, October 2008 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the shades colour issue of texture plus Contessa 20 semi-finalists

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l salon magazine

Contents october 08 w w w. s a lon 5 2 . ca

ON THE COVER

Hair: Vivienne Mackinder Colour: Brian Redman Makeup: David Maderich Wardrobe: David Widjaja, Jacket by Jean Paul Gaultier Photography: Roberto Ligresti Technique: Razor cut graduated into a high bob with a short fringe.

ONTHE COVER 50

shades of texture

contessa 20 semi-finalists

Colour: A halo section was free-hand painted on the top of the head, pre-lightened and then purple was applied. The remaining hair was tinted black.

feature Tips on colouring textured locks

feature The 2009 semi-finalists announced

fEaTuREs 54

Knight-life

fab form

breaKing the rules

’cause this is thriller

feed those locKs

aveda’s big 3-0

russian connection

Errol Douglas gets British

Styling products: Profound

knightlife

schwarzkopf goes short for fall

Vivienne Mackinder knows how and when to shake things up

l’oréal Professionnel turns to espionage for autumn/winter 2008

Evolve is all about hair nutrition

on the vanguard of beauty and environmentalism since its inception, aveda celebrates its 30th birthday

a meeting of the minds between canadian and Russian distributors

57 fab form

> contents continue on Page 16

salon > october 08

feed those locks w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Hair: Lati Domi Make-Up: Kayle Williams Photo: Roberto Aguilar and Ben Cook Courtesy of the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders

Beautiful hair starts at the backbar

Extreme Moisture Therapy Superior strength and condition with immediate results. Recommend a treatment to your client today. TIGIÂŽ products sold only in professional salons. Call 800.259.8596, visit tigihaircare.com or contact your distributor for more information

l salon magazine

regulars

Editor’s LEttEr

PubLishEr’s NotE

hairLiNEs Matrix expands the SOCOLOR and Color Sync lines for fall 2008 p. 24; Cory Kennedy's covetetd style p. 26; Joico adds three new products to Design line p. 26; On the Shelf: two new book reviews p. 27; Tool Time p. 27; Contessa weekend lineup p. 28; Holiday Gift packs p. 30

MEN Dermalogica launches Shave System

trENds

scENE Men’s fall fashions from Canadian designers

coNtEssa GaLLErY Timothy Switzer on his Contessa 19

EsthEtics

taNNiNG Maximizing profits

NaiLs ABA cancels live nail competitions p. 76; China Glaze's Rodeo Diva

ProfiLE Roch Lemay

saLoN52 October lineup

83 86

iNtEriors Inside the Classroom at M.C. College

EVENts

scooP

93 98

PrEss Pass

contessa gallery

collection New skin-care line launches to pro beauty industry

collection p. 76;

hot Products

83 interiors

hot products

42 scene

Last word by John Steinberg

salon > october 08

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Pink About

How You Can Help PINK OF HEARTS -2008 Edition-

OPI’s Exclusive Nail Lacquer for

BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH

OPI’s Pink of Hearts 2008 Edition 8-piece display

OPI’s Pink of Hearts 2008 Edition is a full-of-life light pink – a color of hope, optimism, and positivity – and a beautiful way for women to support each other and the power of pink. In support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, in 2008 OPI will make a donation of $25,000 to Susan G. Komen for the Cure®. Visit komen.org for more information.

EDITOR’S lETTER

Colourful Buzz

PHOTO BABAK

riting this issue’s feature story on colouring textured hair has been a great education for me. Talking with Danyelle Bachand and Christos Cox, as well as others, I’ve learned the many challenges and tips to the intricacies of colouring textured hair in all its forms. If you’re a colourist, or just a cutter, it’s good to understand some of the challenges a colourist goes through, and you should check out the story on page 50. In this issue, we profile former Contessa 2002 Makeover Colourist of the Year winner Roch Lemay. Lemay took over the reins as the new director of education and events for Matrix Canada a few months ago. He has a very interesting take on colour, and the energy it evokes. With his expertise and personality, he’s sure to bring a positive influence to his new professional adventure. Check out his story on page 80. Visually, the newest Essential Looks collection from Schwarzkopf has just hit, and we give you a peak in our features section, as well as at L’Oréal Professionnel’s new thriller collection. I am writing this letter on August 12—the Contessa 20 entry deadline. The in-office excitement and buzz on this day is always so great. We get tons of last-minute phone calls, and many local entrants drop off their packages, which adds to the thrill. Lucky for us in the editorial department, everyone in the office jumps in to help receive and process the packages. We move into the judging process in a week’s time and then the buzz of who will be the winners really begins. See the semi-finalists on page 78. Recently, when I chatted with our panellists for the 2nd Annual Contessa Unplugged discussion, I counted that, between them, they had 74 years, 11 months, 12 days, and eight hours of industry experience. They gave me some wonderful quotes on creativity, some of which I have incorporated into the story on Contessa Weekend, which takes place on November 2 and 3. Check out their thoughts on page 28. And then call Candice at 416.869.3131, ext. 108 to book your tickets.

salon > october 08

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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LOVE FOR SALE A woman could spend days searching for the perfect gift for her man. Make it easy on her. Display holiday merchandise from American Crew. Four gift sets that will drive sales and help you build your business. Ask your distributor.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 17 issue 13

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com MAnAging Editor

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com AssociAtE Art dirEctor

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com

TIME FLIES

Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com EditoriAl AssistAnt

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com copy Editor

Carla Gillis sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

Laura Dunphy Publisher

contributors

Kim Hughes, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE publishEr

Catherine Emmanuel > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | catherine@beautynet.com Account rEprEsEntAtivE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com

circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

AccountAnt

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com chAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USD AddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

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365 Bloor St. e. Suite 1902 toronto, oN M4w 3l4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

his year Contessa is having a big anniversary—20 years old! As I’ve pondered this milestone by poring over old photos and back issues of Salon Magazine, it’s truly been a trip down memory lane. I really got to reminiscing when Stephen, our editor-in-chief, asked me how many Contessas I’ve attended and what it was like way back in the day. I’ve probably attended the awards most years. In the early days as a guest, I soaked up the fun-filled gala night. It was great to see everyone dressed up for the big schmooze-fest. You knew you were rubbing shoulders with some of the industry’s most talented. Who wouldn’t love that? The event was so much smaller then, and the idea of photo-based awards was still quite novel. Even the British Hairdresser of the Year Awards were only three years old in 1988. I had been working at Salon Magazine a short time when in 1996, the opportunity to buy the Contessas was presented to our company. We quickly recognized it as a fantastic fit. However, I’ll admit we were a little daunted by the responsibility. After three years of our team producing the Contessas, they quickly grew to one of the world’s largest, and mostcoveted awards competitions. And little did we know that many Contessa entrants would go on to win other international photography-based and live competitions. Looking back, there’ve been so many great moments and fond memories. Like in 1998, when a Newfoundland couple were so touched by our Contessa-SOS (Save Our Salons Fund) that they immediately wrote a substantial cheque to the fund. Finalists who brought parents to the gala hoping they would witness their big win have been so touching. I don’t remember a more excitable Salon Team win than Private Lines Salon in 1997. Another favourite moment was when Cam Patey, from the Hair Factory at the time, profusely thanked everyone—even all the Contessa dancers wearing thongs. I could go on for hours. How time has flown. I’ve often said the Contessas have a life of their own. We’re so grateful for the opportunity to produce the awards. Why not get your party dress on and come celebrate 20 years of Canada’s finest beauty pros on Sunday, November 2 in Toronto.

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

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Top Five

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

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This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon > october 08

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Sure, I’ve

celebrated my 50th

birthday, so what? Just because I am getting older, it doesn’t mean that I want it to show. I want my hair to feel and look as good as it did when I was 20. I’ve got the money and the time, keep me looking beautiful.

I am YOUR client.

“I travel more than any other demographic and I am wearing IGORA Royal Absolutes 8-50.” “I am part of a generation that controls 77% of Canadian wealth and I am wearing IGORA Royal Absolutes 4-60 and 5-60.”

Together. A passion for hair

“Nearly 1 of 3 Canadians has celebrated their 50th birthday, and I am one of them. I am wearing IGORA Royal Absolutes 7-70.”

The NEEDS of mature hair, 100% COVERED. IGORA Royal Absolutes & BC Time Restore. ABSOLUTE must. • • • • •

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hairlines

Violet Light Matrix expands SOCOLOR and Color Sync lines for fall 2008

salon > october 08

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photo courtesy matrix

hen a market giant like Matrix releases 10 new icyplum-laced shades, you know there’s a major violettone trend out there. Moonlight Smoke, a five-shade range in the Matrix SOCOLOR permanent colour line, and Sheer Pastel, five demi-permanent shades in the Color Sync line, both include cool-purple undertones that control or enhance base hues. “The Moonlight Smoke AV series is formulated to control the underlying pigment of the hair when creating cool brunettes and icy blondes,” explains Roch Lemay, director of education and events for Matrix Canada. “So when a colourist wants to avoid tones like orange or yellow-orange, he or she can use this series to neutralize them.” Although the line is just hitting salons this month, complementing demi-permanent colours are already available in the Color Sync line. “Color Sync’s V series can be used to refresh hair that’s been previously coloured with the new AV line—like when a client comes in to get her regrowth done and mid-length to ends only require refreshing,” says Lemay. Formulated with a reduced colour deposit, Matrix’s other colour offering for fall 08 is the new Color Sync Sheer Pastel series, shades designed to create that subtle lavender-over-blonde look. Ideal for toning the lightest levels of blonde, the Sheer Pastel collection works best when used with Matrix V-Light De-Dusted lightener or with level 10+ SOCOLOR shades. “It’s a line stylists would use to control underlying pigment at a level 10. The end result is a cool pastel or transparent blonde,” states Lemay, adding that stylists should be careful using Sheer Pastel on over-porous hair, as colour may over-deposit. “Still, it’s an easy series to formulate, mix and apply,” he adds. All of Matrix’s new colours include the brand’s protective conditioning complex. For more info, go to www.matrixbeautiful.com or www.salon52.ca.—MA

hairlines

Second Coming queen of cool Cory Kennedy’s coveted style

keystone press agency

Joico adds three new products to its Design Collection

he may just be an L.A. scenester kid with a blog, but Cory Kennedy’s got a cool sense of style, a camera and a portal to the world, which is why fashion people fell hard for this globetrotting teen queen of cool. Last spring, two years after her rise to Internet fame, Nylon magazine’s muse was recruited by iconic hair brand Sebastian Professional to help set the right

salon > october 08

tone for its mega re-launch. With the release of Sebastian’s What’s Next ad campaign, Kennedy’s so-hip-it-hurts image and long chestnut hair officially became bait for the fashionista/ beauty-junkie audience. This, in an industry fixated on short and angular as the epitome of cool. It’s refreshing. And it’s the reason why the girl’s considered fashion’s latest hero.—MA

nown for its slick black packaging and high performance results, Joico’s Design collection line recently expanded with the addition of three new products. available this fall, Flexible shaping spray, texture spray and Forming polish are pliable stylers that can be easily layered and blended. “Design collection is perfect for fashion-conscious people who want to re-create the hairstyles celebs and models are wearing on the red carpet, runway and in fashion editorials,” says Damien carney, international artistic director for Joico. “It’s user-friendly formulas offer extraordinary support and flexibility while remaining completely invisible in the hair.” For a complete rundown of the Design collection, go to www.salon52.ca.—Ma

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on the shelf

tool timE NamE Hai Elite Nano XT Flat Iron

wEbsitE www.hai-elite.com Features: Weighs only 8 ounces • Tourmaline technology creates shiny, smooth finish • Ultra-sensitive floating plates automatically adjust to hair texture and thickness • Heats to 390°F in just five seconds • Non-slip finger grips

No Compromise A good read for leaders

NamE Name: Dannyco Digital Scale

While writing No-Compromise Leadership, due out this month, Neil Ducoff, founder and CEO of Strategies, found his own business at a crossroads. As a result, he took a three-month sabbatical to rethink his goals and intentions. He then began re-engineering not only his company, but also himself as a leader. No-Compromise Leadership came to life—literally. “Strategies became a new and highly invigorated company. I awakened the No-Compromise Leader within me and, almost instantly, amazing things started to happen. New business flowed, and new ideas and shared responsibility created incredible lift. Everyone felt it. NoCompromise Leadership was the difference—and it began with me.” Check out www.nocompromiseleadership.com.—SP

wEbsitE www.dannyco.com. Features: Precisely weighs colouring formulas to obtain consistent results • “Tare” function allows user to reset to zero at anytime • Converts between grams and ounces

NamE Name: Dannyco Foil Dispenser wEbsitE www.dannyco.com. Features: Holds 5-pound foil roll • Suitable for standard 5-inch-width rolls of all thickness • Built-in cutter and smooth roller mechanism permits one-hand operation

Environmental Economics An ecobusiness handbook Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher’s fourth book, Minding Your Business: Profits that Restore the Planet, illuminates how eco-awareness and money-making can work hand-in-hand. The green beauty pioneer and long-time environmental crusader believes that businesses will profit by balancing their own interests with those of the community and the earth. And why not take his advice? The New York Times reported that Rechelbacher sold Aveda, which he founded in 1978, to the Estée Lauder Corporation for a cool $300-million.—AM

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NamE Name: KQC X-Heat Styling Iron wEbsitE www.kqcbeauty.com.

Features: Requires half the heating time than other styling tools, thereby reducing hair’s exposure to heat • Ergonomic design for straightening, flipping or curling hair with a twist of the wrist • KQC’s Turbo X-Heat technology produces a large quantity of negative ions and far-infrared head to soften hair and seal the cuticle • Heats between 140°F and 410°F in seconds

october 08 < salon

hairlines

Creatively Speaking

Contessa weekend has it all

et ready for a fantastic celebration of creativity this November 2 and 3 in Toronto. The Contessas— The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards—are marking a major milestone with its 20th Anniversary. On Sunday, we take a look back at the past 20 years and take a glimpse into the future as we celebrate the 2009 Contessa winners. After the celebrations, the tears and the emotional rollercoaster of handing out the hardware, we have Contessa Unplugged on Monday from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the Berkeley Church. The success of last year’s session continues and this time we're having a discussion on creativity. This year’s stellar panelists—Vivienne Mackinder, Damien Carney and Edwin Johnston—are no strangers to the creative process. Here are some of their thoughts on creativity.

“The person who follows the crowd will usually go no further than the crowd. The person who walks alone will usually go to places that no one has ever been before. And so it is with creativity. Where would you like to go?”

—Vivienne Mackinder

“You can have all the storyboards, images, ideas, etc. But they’re someone else’s ideas and vision—not yours. You have to make your own. Make your statement. Vision and ideas rarely come from one person—they are usually a team effort. But it will only take one person to make the vision a reality.”

—Damien Carney

“I get a lot of my ideas when I run. I began doing it about five years ago and recently have become very serious about it—to the point that I’ll be competing in the Boston Marathon in the spring of 2009. When I run, it allows my imagination to be free. I’ve developed many great ideas running down the beach or along a trail. Body fitness, mind relaxation and nutrition all allow for greater creativity.”

—Edwin Johnston

For full bios of this year’s panel, go to www.salon52.ca. Call 416.869.3131, ext 108 and inquire about combo-ticket deals.—SP

salon > october 08

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hairlines

pack it up

Matrix Holiday Duos A portion of proceeds goes to the Children’s Wish Foundation, an organization granting wishes to children with high-risk, lifethreatening illnesses. Visit www.matrixbeautiful.com.

Holiday gift packs are back for another year With the holidays just around the corner, it’s time to start prepping your salon with all the goodies you’ll need to make it through the season. Ordering in holiday gift packs is always a great first step—they’re simple to merchandise, easy to retail and a no-brainer way to prep for this busy time of year. For more holiday tips and ideas, visit www.salon52.ca.—MA

Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS Magic & Freeze Pack and BC Bonacure Time Restore Pack Go to www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca.

Bain de Terre Colour Preserving Trio Check out www.baindeterre.com.

Paul Mitchell Holiday Duos and Trios A portion of proceeds goes to Food4Africa, a non-profit organization supplying meals to 17,000 children every day. Visit www.paulmitchell.com.

L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert holiday duo clients receive

With the purchase of a

vanilla-scented aroma sticks beautifully pre-packed in a luxurious coffret. Go to www.lorealprofessionnel.ca.

Sexy Hair gift with purchase holiday promo; Clients receive a travel-size Sexy Hands cream with the purchase of selected Sexy products. Visit www.sexyhair.com.

salon > october 08

Senscience Luxury Holiday Duos Fix Men holiday trios pre-packed in

For more, go to www.senscience.com.

toiletry kit. For info, call 800.267.4676.

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IlDon’t y a plus stay on que straight les the chevelures and narrow. raides itet When lisses! comes Pour to créer des creating têtes de red carpetgala, visez worthy hair, les vagues et head for the n’oubliez pas curves and vos options. never forget your options.

GRANDES T REN D O P T I O N COPTION: O IFFURE: Boucles étroites, séparées définies STYLING Slim, separated and defined et curls

GET THE LOOK À VOTRE TÊTE

Learn how comment to achieve Apprenez these at sur réaliser cesstyles coiffures www.salon52.ca. www.salon52.ca. SearchISO for Options ISO Choisissez Options under dans Features+Profiles. Features+Proﬁles. Charlize Theron

CUSTOM FIT SUR MESURE Choisissez Set your look with l’Option qui the right Option convient le mieux for your client à la c liente

Nicole Kidman

OPTION OPTION 1 1::

Pour cheveux Ideal for normal, normaux, non or non-coloured, colorés ou prépre-permed hair. texturés. Formulée Formulated to pour pénétrer la penetrate through cuticule saine et the layers of healthy atteindre le cortex. cuticle and reach the cortex.

OPTION OPTION 22::

Formule A gentler plus formula douce for hair pour with a cheveux plus higher level of poreux. Idéale porosity. Ideal pour chevelures for coloured or colorées ou highlighted hair. méchées.

TENDANCES SPOTTING OPT I O N COI F F U R EBig, : Grosses boucles partout STYLING OPTION: loose, all-around waves

Pourquoi les your clientes devraientWhy should clients opt for ISO elles choisir ISO Options? Pour Options? To get longer, easier and des résultats plus durables, plus damage-free results. facilement et sans dommages.

LONGEVITY LONGÉVITÉ settingdes haircoiffures with hotréalisées tools, ISO ÀUnlike l’encontre permanent texture keeps curls working à la chaleur, la texture permanente overtime. Lasting anywhere between ISO permet des créations durables. Durant à 18 semaines, ces eight to818 weeks, these luscious looks magnifiques defy gravity, boucles keeping aretiennent bouncy lift even leur mouvement dans leshair. on ultra heavy ormême super-straight chevelures lourdes ou très raides. FLEXIBILITY POLYVALENCE Permanent texture does not equal Texture permanente ne veut pas a permanent style. Tight curls can dire coiffure permanente. On peut be swappedles forboucles big, voluptuous transformer serrées en waves with a few styling changes. belles vagues en un tournemain. Hair can be worn loose or Les cheveux peuvent être smooth. lâches Remember, services oﬀer ou lisses. Lestexture services de texture offrent contrôle; n’entravent control,unnot creativeils limitations. pas la créativité. MANAGEABILITY FACILITÉ Since a permanently set style doesn’t Comme une coiffure permanente ne lose its shape after washing, at-home perd pas sa forme au lavage, vos styling will be faster and easier on clientes pourront se coiffer plus vite your clientele. Curls will know their et plus facilement. Les boucles et place, waves will fall where they et les vagues tomberont en place should–and your clients will you les clientes adoreront votre love travail! for it. RÉSULTATS SANS DOMMAGES ISO Options donne toute la DAMAGE-FREE RESULTS texture voulue sans endommager ISO Options delivers all the curls your les cheveux. clients crave without harming their hair.

Tyra Banks

Penélope Cruz

OPTION OPTION33::

Formule donnant A formulation des boucles extra delivering extra fermes dans firm curl on les chevelures normal and normales ou resistant hair. résistantes. Idéale Ideal for grey hair. pour cheveux gris.

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A SAviour ShAvE

Dermalogica introduces a health-minded line for men’s faces

ot all male clients are created equal—nor is their skin. Contrary to popular belief, not all men have tough skin. They may exude a tough exterior—the macho man—but many have very sensitive skin that needs a different approach when it comes to shaving. There are even men who cannot shave daily, only every second day. I should know—I was one of them for years. Embracing the notion that male skin is not necessarily macho skin, Dermalogica—professional skin care specialists—introduces the new Shave System, a three-step approach to preparing the skin for the blade and keeping skin balanced and soothed following the shave. “We’ve created a health-minded regimen that delivers a velvetsmooth shave, and even intercepts skin problems including breakouts, ingrown hairs and signs of aging in the process,” says Jane Wurwand, founder of Dermalogica. Dermalogica Shave System introduces six new products, as well as updates to a few of the brand’s classics, to create a full complement of shaving essentials for any skin condition.

STEP 1: Pre-Shave Clean Bar The performance of a Dermalogica cleanser in a convenient bar form. The soap-free, non-irritating Clean Bar removes excess oils and debris without stripping skin’s natural moisture barrier. Tea tree

salon > october 08

and an anti-microbial complex of botanicals purify skin while anti-inflammatory agents soothe and condition. Suits all skin conditions.

Daily Clean Scrub This new, two-in-one product simultaneously cleanses and exfoliates. The lightly foaming, skinrejuvenating formula helps remove dulling skin cells to keep pores clear and minimize ingrown hairs while lifting the beard for a closer, cleaner shave.

Pre-Shave Guard This new protective product prepares skin for shaving by softening the beard in order to minimize razor bumps and ingrown hairs. Clove flower oil, a naturally stimulating essential oil, helps open pores and soften the beard while soothing skin against the discomfort associated with razor burn. Great for tough beards.

STEP 2: Shave Soothing Shave Cream This new, ultra-calming, anti-inflammatory shave cream conditions the skin, reducing irritation and redness associated with shaving, while also eliminating acne-causing bacteria. For all skin conditions, especially dry and sensitized skin. Jojoba seed oil and shea butter soften and condition.

Invigorating Shave Gel He gets a “barber-close” shave with this new,

multi-use, oil-free shaving aid that infuses skin with antioxidants, which helps delay signs of aging. The colourless formula allows the client to clearly see the area being shaved. Great for all skin types, but especially oily.

Close Shave Oil Create an instant cushion between the skin and razor with this ultra-smooth shaving oil for an extra close shave without nicks, cuts or redness. Close Shave Oil allows him to receive a precise shave. Good for all skin types.

STEP 3: Post-Shave Post-Shave Balm This new treatment balm not only reduces discomfort, irritation and redness, but also prevents ingrown hairs and impacted follicles. The lightweight, oil-free, intensely moisturizing balm helps shorten post-shave recovery time. Good for all skin conditions, especially oily and those prone to ingrown hairs and sensitivity.

Daily Defense Block SPF15 This new lightweight, daytime moisturizer promotes recovery of the skin’s natural protective barrier after shaving. Provides essential protection against UVB radiation, which may cause skin cancer. This line has something for every client on your roster. For more information go to www.salon52.ca or visit www.dermalogica.com.—SP

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salon > october 08

Collection: AG Architectureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Uptown Hair: Jo-Anne Dicken, AG Artistic Team Leader Photos: courtesy AG Hair Cosmetics

uptown girls

trends

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salon > october 08

Collection: Fudge 2008 International Artists Collection Photos: courtesy Fudge

razorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge

trends

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with a bang

trends

Collection: Fudge 2008 International Artists Collection Photos: courtesy Fudge

salon > october 08

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SCENE

Conservative Cool

Gentlemen take over Canada’s fashion scene

PHiliP sParKs 42

salon > october 08

PHiliP sParKs

he latest endangered species to find a home on the runway isn’t originally from the great outdoors. This season, Canada’s male-dominated designers paid major homage to a dying urban breed: the well-mannered, well-coiffed and well-dressed gentleman. Slim-fitting suits, V-neck sweaters and even bright bow ties were complemented by slick, side-parted hair at Philip Sparks. Bustle gave a mobster-like edge to its army of suitwearing boys with dark navy-blue-to-black textiles, while Rudsak’s signature leather pieces were styled with a puritan punch. Even youthoriented label GSUS gave a wink to the good old boys with its take on cardigans and collared shirts. So will the clothes make the gentleman this fall/winter season? Perhaps not, but a welltailored suit and a sharp pair of shoes can certainly have an influence. S

PHiliP sParKs

By Morella Aguirre Photos by Michael Banasiak

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RUDSAK

BUSTLE

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october 08 < salon

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Superhero Worship Timothy Switzer shares how he and colourist Rodica Hristu turned to Japanese anime for Contessa inspiration Edited by Morella Aguirre

or my Contessa 19 collection, I wanted to

create cuts that not only moved easily, but could also bounce back to their original shape in an instant. I was really inspired after watching Charlize Theron in the movie Aeon Flux, where she had an asymmetrical blue-black bob that moved so much

“Rodica’s colour patterns create a sense of asymmetry and emphasize the smooth-tocurly texture.” —Timothy Switzer

and so smoothly in every scene, but kept its shape throughout the whole movie. That look became the basis for a whole Japanese-animation theme that colourist Rodica Hristu and I developed. I based the collection on a clean design plan that was very focused on shape. For cuts that were kept strong and geometric, Rodica created interest with a mix of cool and warm tones, and also used a combination of bright and soft pigments to build focal points and a sense of asymmetry. With other models, we decided to go in the opposite direction, just one bold colour.

heavily texturizing the hair for movement and using

Hair: Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Courtice, Ontario Colour: Rodica Hristu, Freelance Makeup: Raquel Atienza Wardrobe: Laura DiMarcantonio Photos: Babak

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

“We decided to cut a fringe on this model at the very last minute. It was one of those quick decisions that just end up working.”—TS

salon > october 08

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Proving Itself

10,000 Times a Day Hot Tools’ 1043 dryer… chosen by a 10,000-salon chain as their backbar dryer. The reason is its high heat, tourmaline and ion-loaded airflow which softens, shines and dries hair faster. It’s also lightweight and quiet. Perfect for 10,000 salons… and for you. Hot Tools 1043. See your Hot Tools distributor or call 1-800-487-8769

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Superhero Worship Timothy Switzer shares how he and colourist Rodica Hristu turned to Japanese anime for Contessa inspiration Edited by Morella Aguirre

or my Contessa 19 collection, I wanted to

“Rodica’s colour patterns create a sense of asymmetry and emphasize the smooth-tocurly texture.” —Timothy Switzer

heavily texturizing the hair for movement and using

Hair: Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Courtice, Ontario Colour: Rodica Hristu, Freelance Makeup: Raquel Atienza Wardrobe: Laura DiMarcantonio Photos: Babak

salon > october 08

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tips

on colouring textured locks By Stephen Puddister

shades of texture

require special consideration from the colourist. From colouring naturally textured hair, for the woman with

the massive head of curls, to working with re-texturized African American hair, the experienced beauty pro wants to keep the hair at its healthiest while achieving the desired look. So what do you need to take into account to ensure your curly colour clients keep coming back? Here, we take a look at several colour and texture conundrums and tell you what you need to know to keep your clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colour at its best.

salon > october 08

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photo courtesy iso opposite page jupiterimages

he combination of texture and colour will always

of the hair. I know there are lots of clients who will want to go further, but it is up to the stylist to educate them that maintaining healthy hair is key.”

highlighting naturally Curly hair

“Colouring a massive head of curly hair is not as complicated as some stylists seem to think,” says Danyelle Bachand, creative director for ISO, a brand specializing in texture that also offers a colour line. “One thing to remember is that since curly hair, especially dense curly hair, absorbs light more than straight hair, which reflects light, it always seems darker in tone. With this in mind, a stylist should suggest a lighter shade to this type of client. “The best result is achieved when you apply a lighter shade at the base on the first third of the length and gradually go darker on the mid-section and ends. That way, it absorbs the visual density of the overall shape and the hair doesn’t look as big or dense. This should not be confused with a client who has normal density texture, when you would go darker at the base area by two to three shades to create a strong background for the curls to show more contrast.” Clients looking to go five levels lighter than their natural colour are another major challenge for stylists. Bachand suggests, “The lift levels should be chosen according to the natural colour and the density of pigments in the natural colour of the hair. They vary from client to client but not necessarily because of the hair texture. Staying within two to three levels of the client’s natural colour will give the best results while maintaining the integrity

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Colouring permed hair With a perm, you are now talking about a double chemical process and Bachand says it’s vital to look at the needs of each client individually. “There is no one rule for all. First of all, you always test the capacity of the hair to handle a double chemical process. For success, the hair requires a lower level of porosity and a high level of elasticity. A high level of porosity will cause the hair to lose the colour because the cuticle opens wider. It will not keep the added pigments nor will it keep its new added shape or texture. “Elasticity is a must to give the appearance of natural texture. A chemical texture added on hair with less than 20 per cent elasticity will challenge both the stylist and the client in the finishing of the hair. The hair will not hold its new movement and will tend to collapse. As long as those two elements are taken into consideration, there are no limits to creativity!” Colouring before or after perming? When it comes to proper technique for colouring and perming on one client, there are many schools of thought—especially in today’s technology-

Colouring naturally Curly hair

When it comes to highlighting densely textured hair, Bachand has some advice—especially if the base is a level 2 to 3. “Extreme highlights (6 to 8 levels of lift) are a little more difficult to wear on dense/curly hair because the end result tends to look frizzy. Secondly, with such a huge contrast in levels, the highlights can look like worms.” Bachand suggests staying with a solid colour with this type of client, or going with a very subtle change in the colour tone when she wants hightlights. When the client wants to go for a bold impact on dense curly hair, Bachand suggests going for colour curl placement. She says,“Take the complete curl (instead of small highlights) and colour them separately with a different tone or shade. That way you won’t end up with a fragment of the curl that can look like she has grey hair instead of a highlight.” In the instance of working with redheads, Bachand says the issues are the same except “red tends to contain a strong yellow base so we should always be aware of that prior to colouring a lighter shade or highlighting the hair. Lowlights work best on red hair because they add dimension to the overall style.”

october 08 < salon

HigHligHting permed Hair As mentioned before, highlighting a chemical texture is not a problem—the key is in education. “If you are well-trained on both colour and chemical texture, you will know your limits and work accordingly. If you are just starting to offer these two services together, keep within your comfort zone and always work on a maximum of three levels of lift. Keeping the integrity of the hair while showing off the beautiful perm is more important for your client.”

Keeping tHe integrity of tHe Hair Again, a good consultation, that includes checking for porosity and elasticity is integral. It’s also important to not allow your chemical process to run overtime, a common mistake when working with hair previously exposed to chemical services. “Chemical services are achieved in less time on previously chemically treated hair than on natural hair,” notes Bachand. “Hair should always be tested. Once the desired result is achieved, you should rinse immediately.” As for the maximum amount of lift a colourist should try, Bachand suggests keeping it within three levels. “A full head of hair may contain various degrees of porosity, which can create challenges.” In order to assure a harmonious look, it’s best to keep it simple and not over-lift the hair.

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aftercare Double-processed hair will always require more care. Again, with today’s technology, the professional shampoos and conditioners developed for this market segment are your best suggestion to your clients. Bachand recommends ISO’s TAMER, BOUNCY or HYDRA Lines depending on the specific needs. “The TAMER or BOUNCY lines are for naturally curly hair, while the HYDRA line restores moisture to double processed hair. A deep treatment is also recommended every seven shampoos for clients with double-processed hair.”

colouring african american Hair Christos Cox, owner of Toronto’s Urban Textures salons, has been working with African and multitextured hair for over 20 years. In his experience, the most important element of working with African American hair is understanding the diversity of textures that are contained in this one category. “There are many mixtures of races in Canada and that is reflected in the African American community as well,” says Cox. “Textures ranging from very coarse to fine, to super curly, to straight and various mixes of the same are not uncommon. Often more than one texture of hair can exist on the same scalp. Each section demands unique attention.” Nevertheless, about 80 per cent of all African American hair is characterized as tight or excessively curly. Naturally lacking in elasticity, African hair tends to accumulate stress in its twists and coils, making things like combing, brushing, styling, colouring and texturizing traumatic and potentially damaging. Cox goes on to say that, “Generally, African American (or multi-textured) hair has a propensity to be dehydrated due to its natural properties—the existence of protein bonds. Protein bonds represent the main building blocks of the hair and wherever curls occur, you find a more dense concentration of these bonds. During chemical processes such as colouring and retexturizing/relaxing, these protein bonds are

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this page: (top) hair jeffrey altenberg photo paula tizzard; hair carol van breeda photo tracey bardoel opposite page: (top) hair rudy pignataro photo david hou; hair adrian carew photo roswell anderson

driven market. According to Bachand, however, a stylist should allow 24 to 48 hours in between the two services in order to allow the inner structure of the hair to return to its maximum strength after the perm, then colour. “The more porous the hair, the longer you should wait between the two services,” says Bachand.

negatively affected as they are altered forever and/or removed in the case of straightening, causing hair to become coarser and more prone to dehydration and breakage.”

Colouring non-relaxed hair The benefit to those who stay with their natural texture through the use of deep treatments and moisture-filled conditioners, says Cox, is that they can get to play with colour and most likely have a very favourable result. “Let’s face it, most African American clients wanting hair colour should consider not relaxing it at all. There is also the option of using relaxers for colour-treated hair.”

Colouring relaxed hair “Since African American hair is often relaxed, colouring automatically subjects it to a second chemical treatment,” says Cox. “This hair should never be relaxed and coloured on the same day. Strand testing is an important tool in maintaining the integrity of the hair.” He recommends that it should be followed by a waiting period of three weeks to allow for a proper assessment. “Most times the reaction of the hair does not show its true colour (no pun intended), and it’s only after a few weeks have passed that you will start to see shedding, breaking or no damage at all. Often, you have to ask the client if achieving that colour is worth the hair loss that is likely to follow.” He explains that the hydroxides found in relaxers react with ammonia found in permanent colours, and the combination of both can vary drastically. He suggests using colours that have the lowest amount of ammonia and the lowest volume of peroxide that still offer the range of flexibility you want. He also suggests using protein-based colour rinses (non-peroxide,

non-ammonia) immediately after relaxing or re-texturizing as a refresher.”

highlighTing Highlighting is another option for the client whose hair may not be able to handle allover colour. “It can be recommended that the client do spot-lighting on pieces or signature sections instead of all-over colour. Often this service allows the client to have flexibility and be able to use non-peroxide or non-ammonia rinses to create tone-on-tone effects as well.”

levels of lifT Cox suggests that for the client who is conscious about the health and integrity of her hair, she should go no more than four levels of lift beyond her natural colour. The person who wants to push the envelope, like the young hipster, will probably want to go seven levels. A lot depends on their age and lifestyle.

afTerCare “All curly hair will experience a drier, more brittle hair shaft that will require a moisturerich leave-in regime containing fatty acids and essential oils.” Cox says to always towel dry the hair before applying conditioner and use moisturizing pH-balanced conditioners. He suggests the amount of thermal styling also needs to be decreased as this adds another dimension to the problem exacerbating the dehydration issue. “Stylists who have succeeded with colour on African American hair are individuals that roller set or wrap their hair rather than use thermal styling. They have a leave-in regime that contains a cocktail of moisture-rich conditioners and essential oils, specifically developed for this hair type, says Cox.”

The boTTom line For Cox and Bachand, colouring highly textured hair requires the stylist to do a thorough analysis of the porosity and elasticity of the hair to best gauge capacity to handle the various chemical

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processes. Keeping the client apprised of the uniqueness of her hair will produce clients who are better informed consumers and can identify products that will be more advantageous to their hair texture. S

october 08 < salon

Collection: British Hair: Errol Douglas Colour: Matrix Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Emma Cotterill Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Knight-life Errol Douglas gets British Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

salon > october 08

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ecently recognized into the Order of the British Empire for his services to hairstyling,

England’s Errol Douglas is truly at the top of his game. An international Matrix figurehead, Douglas shows a reflection of his status with his latest collection, British—a name that very well may be an indirect nod to his recent honour. Acclaimed for his progressive photography and proficiency with both Afro and European hair, Douglas has created a nine-look collection that focuses on high-impact imagery and strong cuts with movement. The shoot took six months to plan and execute, and Douglas says it embodies the best of 07/08 trends: from big Barbarella-like waves to the interesting, androgynous crops worn by Rihanna and Brit breakout model Agyness Deyn. The British collection focuses on fashionforward dressing—heavy on bold, bondageesque accessories and nails paired with equally trendy but classic hair. Styles run the gamut of length, colours and textures, but are united by a surprising softness buried beneath super-sleek styling. “The bob, the blonde and the crop all have real texture, and the emphasis is on bold colour and fluid, clean looks,” says the three-time British Hairdresser Award winner, adding, “the sharp bob will never die.” For the full collection, visit www.salon52.ca.

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october 08 < salon

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fab form

Schwarzkopf goes short for fall Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

october 08 < salon

Collection: The Eclectic Collection Creative direction: Steve Hogan Creative direction, hair: Massimo di Steffano Creative direction, color: Lesley Lawson Photos: Schwarzkopf Professional

salon > october 08

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all fashion mixes the best of the cooler and warmer months: lightweight pieces get you through lukewarm days and structured, heavier items complement dark evenings. Building on the versatility of fall designs, Schwarzkopfâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biannual Essential Looks, dubbed The Eclectic Collection, is made up of four looks that riff on popular fall/ winter 2008 runway themes: rustic chic, modern vintage, gothic lace and edgy structure. All four looks put their own spin on simplicity with an emphasis on strong colour and effortless styling. Loose waves and strands trailing out of textured updos define Country Life, and Eccentric Vintage plays with exaggerated ponytails and twists for a quirky take on quaint. True to its name, Gothic Romance is defined by black but also features unexpected hits of colour coursing through long tresses. The strongest set, however, is Sculptured Form, pictured here, which encourages cheekbone-defining, sleekly styled crop cuts in bold basic colours. For the full collection, visit www.salon52.ca. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 08 < salon

Breaking the Rules Vivienne Mackinder knows when to shake things up

Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

“The Bauhaus Rocks Collection is defined by an edgy mixture of angles designed to complement the symmetry of the face and bone structure. Strong blocks of colour then highlight the architecture in each hair design.”—VM

s Vivienne Mackinder tells aspiring artists, “All great masters have one thing in common: learn the rules before you break them.” And this 30-year industry veteran and former artistic director of Vidal Sassoon, has certainly earned her right to break the rules, as she does in this stunning new collection she’s named Bauhaus Rocks.

salon > october 08

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Hair: Vivienne Mackinder Colour: Brian Redman Hair assistant: Harmonie Redman Makeup: David Maderich Wardrobe: David Widjaja Products: Profound Beauty Photos: Roberto Ligresti Special thanks to Hairuwear. Filmed on location at “HairDesignerTV photo shoot workshop” for stylists who wish to learn editorial.

A five-time North American Hairstylist of the Year recipient, most recently earning Master Stylist of the Year, and honoured this year by the NAHAs as a leading lady in hair, Mackinder is not resting on her laurels. Her latest ventures include the creation of a top tier salon-training program called The Elite Program and the online hairstyling education program, www.hairdesignertv.com. One of Vidal Sassoon’s early collections was inspired by Bauhaus, an artistic movement originating in Germany in the early 20th century that taught

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architectural design and structure. These looks were characterized by strong geometric shapes— very structured and controlled, Mackinder says. In Bauhaus Rocks, she has taken her own approach to her mentor’s concept, using the razor to allow for more movement and flow. “Recent trends in razor-cutting have been defined by very jagged edges. I wanted to move away from that and show how the classic cuts can be achieved through the precision of razor-cutting.” Check out the full collection online at www.salon52.ca. S

october 08 < salon

Speed Demon

’Cause this is Thriller L’Oréal Professionnel turns to espionage for autumn/winter 2008 Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

salon > october 08

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The Avenger

Collection: Thriller, L’Oréal Professionnel autumn/winter 2008 colour collection Hair: Odile Gilbert for L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Consultant: Frederic Mennetrier for L’Oréal Professionnel Photos: Mark Segal

The Specialist

aking its cue from the well-heeled heroines of Hollywood blockbusters (think gutsy Angelina and Herculean Charlize), L’Oréal Professionnel presents Thriller, its fall/winter 2008 colour collection. Broken up into two series, one representing Majirel and the other Luocolor, Thriller plays with shadow and light to create a misty, spy-fiction feel. The Luocolor-derived looks shown here draw their inspiration from mysterious spies and focus on clear, bright colours that enhance natural highlights. Three characters—the Avenger, the Specialist and Speed Demon—bring the who-done-it story to life. Check out the full collection on-line at www.salon52.ca. S

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october 08 < salon

Feed those Locks Evolve is all about hair nutrition

By Stephen Puddister

e all know that good nutrition is essential to healthy bodies, and that includes healthy hair. If your clients are not getting proper nutrition, it can certainly affect the condition of their hair. “Hair requires nutrients, which are absorbed through food. Nutritional deficiencies can accelerate signs of weakened hair,” says Jill Sanderson, associate brand manager for Evolve by Quantum, a brand-new take-home line launching to salons this month from Piidea Canada. “However, even if your clients are eating well, their hair might not be getting all the nutrients it requires to look its best. Nutrition and hair care come together in Evolve by Quantum to provide the solution. All products have been specially formulated with our exclusive Nutr.e Complex to nourish, protect and re vitalize the hair for healthy and beautiful results.” Nutr.e is Evolve’s answer to the universal desire for strong, healthy, beautiful hair. The exclusive complex was specially developed to provide total hair nutrition—hairtricion, as they call it—and is at the heart of each Evolve by Quantum product. Nutr.e enriches the hair with an exclusive blend of healthy ingredients including silk amino acids, raspberry seed extract, flaxseed oil (contains omega 3, 6, 9), moringa protein, vitamins C, E, and B5, as well as minerals derived from soybean extract. Plus, each product category contains additional, nourishing ingredients that directly relate to the benefit sought.

collection provides an extra measure of healthy moisture and imparts a brilliant shine. Daily Shampoo 50 ml, 500 ml, 1L Daily Conditioner 50 ml, 500 ml, 1L The Cure deep-conditioning treatment 150 ml BoosT Body A collection of products for fine, lifeless hair. Adds extra volume and shine for hair that looks and feels noticeably thicker. Daily Shampoo 50 ml, 500 ml, 1L Daily Conditioner 50 ml, 500 ml, 1L Foam weightless styling foam 200 ml The ProducTs: The Evolve by Quantum line features an array of products formulated to meet the varied needs of hair. Organized into distinct and simple categories by sought benefit/hair type, the formulas are the basis for the ideal hair care regimen, ensuring beautiful, healthy results every time. MainTain MoisTure A family of products for hair in need of essential moisture replenishment and maintenance. The

salon > october 08

cherish colour A family of products for colour-treated hair, that protect from environmental stressors that lead to colour damage and fading while repairing and strengthening with essential nutrients and moisture. Daily Shampoo 50 ml, 500 ml, 1L Daily Conditioner 50 ml, 500 ml, 1L Blonde Beauty Wash violet shampoo 500 ml

sTyle essenTials A collection of seven advanced formulas for total creative styling freedom. shape protective shaping spray with medium hold and high shine. Finish protective finishing spray with long-lasting hold and maximum control. Humidity-resistant and fast-drying. design protective firm-hold foam, a volume-building mousse. root Whip protective volumizing foam with targeted nozzle delivery. Creates long-lasting lift and fullness at the root. Paste pliable finishing paste for medium-firm, long lasting hold. Adds texture and thickness, definition and shape. Putty whipped styling putty for a clean and lightweight, natural finish with soft, flexible hold. control anti-frizz balm that smoothes hair and protects it from heat damage. Seals in moisture while taming frizz, static and curls. S

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Aveda’s Big 3-0 On the vanguard of beauty and environmentalism since its inception, Aveda celebrates its 30th birthday By Anupa Mistry

salon > october 08

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HAIR ANTOINETTE BEENDERS PHOTO COURTESY AVEDA

hese days, environmental entrepreneurs are a dime a dozen. In the 70s, however, only trailblazers set out to build eco-empires. Aveda—the beauty world's green pioneer—is now a household name. But it hasn't just tread off the beaten path for the past 30 years—it had to create the path as well. Founded in 1978 by hairstylist Horst Rechelbacher, Aveda’s mission has been to combat the harmful petrochemicals present in our daily lives and function as a zero-waste company. Ray Civello, founder of Collega International—Aveda’s national distributor in Canada—says that it’s crucial to understand that the choice to follow environmentally sustainable business practices isn’t something that should be unique to the beauty industry. “It’s not an option not to embrace it,” he says. “The resources we are using right now are finite.” And thirty years ago, the resources that Aveda needed to implement a non-waste business didn’t even exist. “Every aspect of the business was pioneering,” explains Civello. “Aveda was using language that no one had paid attention to, aside from environmentalists. Aveda had to pioneer its own goals and resources.” Over the years, the company has created partnerships that have made for a better earth—from recyclable packaging and ingredient-sourcing partnerships with indigenous peoples around the world, to the introduction of wind farms at its corporate headquarters and adjacent distribution plant in Minnesota. This hasn’t just shaped the way Aveda does business, it has also influenced the companies that provide its packaging, energy and distribution—not to mention the salons that carry Aveda products. “For the last 50 years, the salon environment has not changed drastically. Today, water and energy consumption are two of the major waste issues in salons,” says Civello. “This should be seen as an opportunity for both economic- and eco-friendly innovation.” It’s also a major lesson that we can all learn from Aveda.

30 Years of Aveda 1978 Horst Rechelbacher founds Aveda, which translates to â&#x20AC;&#x153;all knowledgeâ&#x20AC;? in Sanskrit, and launches the future classic Clove shampoo.

1983 First styling product, Aveda Sculpting Gel, is unveiled.

1987 Aveda is introduced to Canada.

1989 1993

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Aveda forms its first indigenous partnership with the Yawanawan tribe in Brazil.

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1994 Ray Civello founds Collega, Aveda's national Canadian distributor.

2006 Toronto welcomes its own Aveda Institute and Academyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the first of its kind in Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;in the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic St. Lawrence Market districtâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

2007 Corporate headquarters and the main manufacturing plant and distribution centre in Blaine, MN are converted to 100 per cent wind power energy. S

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1997

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salon > october 08

Russian

ConneCtion A meeting of the minds between Canadian and Russian distributors

By Tina Christopoulos

anadians have long enjoyed leading the pack in hairstyling, with international accolades for their competition and stage work. But alongside our famed artists, our loyal distributors are also making a name for themselves on a global level. “For the last two years, Canada has been the strongest country in market penetration for Schwarzkopf products,” says Alain Jacquaz, H. Chalut Ltée. This accomplishment recently led to a special invitation from Stanislav Vassiliev, Director Schwarzkopf & Henkel Professional Russia to two Canadian distributors to visit Moscow. From April 27 to May 2, Jacquaz and Vince Riverso from Venus Beauty Supplies, along with George Broder and Frank Bruno from Schwarzkopf Professional, visited Moscow, only to find that the two countries that couldn’t be further apart in political discourse are actually on the same page when it comes to talking beauty. “Once you get past the historical background of the country and base yourself on the salon and stylist experience, you realize that we are part of one hairstyling community,” says Jacquaz. However, our Canadian ambassadors did see a major difference in salon price point. Noting that all product used during a service is measured by weight, Jacquaz states that, “In Russia, clients receive two bills—one for the service and one for the product that was used. The visit ends up being much more expensive. It can go up to $250 to $350 for a cut and blow-dry, and not necessarily at a high-end salon.” This is no big surprise. With a growing economy, the new Russian middleclass pride themselves on being able to afford pampering and the latest fashions. Jacquaz says, “They have an aspiration to acquire what rich countries have and they are extremely proud to be recognized as part of an international beauty community.” S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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ESTHETICS

Coffee Break

here’s only so much pulling you can do to the face with a facelift,” says Dr. Marc DuPéré, MD, CM, FRCSC, a plastic surgeon at Visage Clinic in Toronto. To help your clients maintain beautiful, supple, wrinkle-free skin, Revaléskin, a new line that includes Facial Cleanser, Day Cream (with SPF 15) and Night Cream, has recently launched and is available for salons, spas and medi spas to offer to their clients. Revaléskin contains CoffeeBerry, an extract of the unripe coffee bean fruit, which contains one of the highest scores of antioxidants (more than green tea, pomegranate or vitamins C and E). In a double-blind study of 30 testers in which the cream was applied to only one side of the face for six weeks, the results showed a 10 times improvement in fine lines, 4 times improvement in the tone, texture and hydration and a 3 times improvement in pigmentation. Revaléskin’s three-step system cleanses, protects

salon > october 08

New skin-care line launches to professional beauty industry and revitalizes skin while preventing and rejuvenating damage caused by free radical exposure and oxidative stress. The facial cleanser cleans, smoothes and refreshes skin; the day cream contains SPF 15 to protect against sun damage; the night cream revitalizes your skin while you sleep. Revaléskin works on three levels: reduces wrinkles and fine lines, brown spots and redness. Not only is the line hypo-allergenic, noncomedogenic and non-irritating, it’s suitable for all skin types. “It’s simple and unisex, but gives significant results,” says Dr. DuPéré. For more information about Revaléskin, call 514.332.3800 or toll free at 800.363.2862 or e-mail stiefelcanada@stiefel.ca. S Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness

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another quality product from

THE NEW ESSENTIALS INTRODUCING THE H3000 COLLECTION BY HAIRART™ One of HairArt’s top professional irons has inspired a new line of salon essentials. The H3000 Collection launches with the silicon plated Deluxe Iron designed to style, straighten, smooth, and add shine. A variety of must have tools will soon be available to complete your new favorite collection. The possibilities are endless and beautiful.

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valux Tanning and Support recently began a strategic partnership with Integrated Processors Inc. (IPI) as their Payment Processing Consulting Firm. A long-term exclusive referral and endorsement partnership will offer IPI’s Merchant Direct Program to all Uvalux retail salon owners until at least 2016, enabling them to reduce costs and increase profits. “Our customers look to Uvalux for business solutions in the Canadian Tanning Industry,” says Nik Van Haeren, Uvalux president. “This new solution will improve transaction processing speeds, while increasing their profits by eliminating ongoing monthly rental fees and by reducing their existing credit and debit transaction costs.” IPI’s new Merchant Direct Advance Program will also enable tanning salon owners to receive working-capital funding by way of advances against future credit and debit card volumes. “In these challenging economic times, it is getting more and more difficult for small business owners to get short-term funding

salon > october 08

One transaction at a time

or working capital in a quick and professional manner without having to be subjected to invasive credit checks, personal guarantees, etc.,” says Van Haeren, “but not anymore.” You may be eligible for an advance of up to 20 to 30 per cent more than your monthly average in debit and credit card receivables. If you’ve been processing a minimum of $5,000 (average monthly) in debit and credit card transactions for 12 months, have at least 12 months left on your lease and are up-to-date with payments to your landlord or mortgage company, you may qualify. Funds are paid to the qualified merchant in about a week or two, and there is no preset monthly payment. The merchant pays the advance back over time by receiving approximately 80 per cent of their batch-out settlements, which means about an eight-month payout. “This will work well for some of our customers when it comes time to add a new service like our Hydration Station or to replace tanning beds or tanning lamps,” said Van Haeren. Contact Uvalux at 800.661.6292.—TC

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nails

Tipped Off ABA cancels live nail competitions

TREND: Classic colours, as seen in China Glaze’s Rodeo Diva collection

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salon > october 08

Branding Iron

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ragging rights and learning opportunities for nail technicians and students have gotten a little slimmer now that the Allied Beauty Association has cancelled its nail competitions. The announcement was made mid-July and affects trade shows scheduled for the latter half of this year. “We are cancelling the competitions for the rest of 2008 and for 2009,” confirms Stephanie Gadbois, the ABA’s event planner for tickets and competitions. “But we are hoping to bring them back for 2010.” Gadbois cites low turnout and support as the reason behind the change. “Nails tend not to be as big a draw as hair competitions, and I also think a lot of technicians don’t know there are nail competitions,” says Gadbois. “We tried to get the word out and turn it around and we didn’t see an increase in numbers.” Christine Turner, the ABA’s nail competition director, was tasked with this initiative two years ago and says that the changes she spearheaded, including changing the emphasis from winning to education, had received lots of positive feedback. “I’m obviously very disappointed,” she says. “Losing our one and only Canadian live competition is an obvious blow to the industry.” Toronto esthetician Leanne Colley of Tips Nail Bar competed regularly with the ABA and has continued to stay involved as a contest judge. She says she is completely disappointed by the announcement. “It’s really one of the only things we have in the nail industry that students and nail techs look forward to for perfecting their technique,” she says. That angle—nail comps as an educational experience—has been Turner’s main push for increasing involvement. “People who have been avid competitors will tell you that’s been their greatest learning tool to gain everyday skills that they wouldn’t learn through their schooling,” says Turner. Working within a specific time frame and learning different time-management tricks are some of the skills competitive nail techs pick up. “It’s the most financially feasible and non-biased way to get an education,” she adds. Colley agrees and says that more students becoming active competitors could help competitions stay afloat.—AM

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CELEBRATING TWO DECADES OF BEAUTY

CONTESSA 20

T H E C A N A D I A N H A I RST Y L I ST O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S

Canadian Hairstylist

elite master Hairstylist

Adriana Balea, Francesca’s Salon & Spa Jeffery Andrew Barkley, Yellow Orange Salon & Spa John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co. Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force Salon and Spa Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon and Spa Johnny Cupello, J.C. Salons Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel Davide Fattor, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Tamy Michaud, Claudio Coiffure International Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Silas Chi Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous Lisa Watrich, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon

Jeffery Andrew Barkley, Yellow Orange Salon & Spa John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc Carol Cini, Taz Hair Co. Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co. Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force Salon and Spa Johnny Cupello, J.C. Salons Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte Coiffe Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve Franco Iaconetti, La Coupe Montreal Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon & Spa Urbain Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Tamy Michaud, Claudio Coiffure International Lina Morra-Lomangina, Michael’s Hair Body Mind Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Jane Tecson, Vault Salon and Spa Heather Wenman, Studio H

Canadian salon team

makeover Colourist

Blunt Salon Inc Blushes I Hair and Day Spa Capucci Salon & Spa Claudio Coiffure International La Coupe Montreal La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon Donato Salon & Spa Ego Salon & Spa Entrenous J.C. Salons Moods Hair Salon Rain Boutique & Salon Ricci Hair Co. Salon Inpure II Salon Pure Studio H Taz Hair Co. Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Valentino’s Grande Salon Vault Salon and Spa

Jeffery Altenburg, Shampoo Planet Adriana Balea, Francesca’s Salon & Spa Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio Valerie Bourassa, Fluid et muse concept beauté Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co. Mylene Bruni, La Coupe Montreal Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon and Spa Katrina Dieleman, The Cutting Room Davide Fattor, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve Laura Girolametto, Salon I.D. Rodica Hristu, De Berardinis Salon & Spa Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Nancy Scasserra, Xpression The Salon Alann Sluser, Ricci Hair Co. Russel Surujbally, Ego Salon & Spa Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Klaudia Tracewicz, Taz Hair Co. Silas Chi Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous

* Salon Business Excellence Award. Only finalists will be announced. They will appear in our November/December issue. Finalists will be contacted by phone and mail in advance of the Contessas.

salon > october 08

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HAIR EDWIN JOHNSTON COLOUR FIONA JOHNSTON MAKEUP KRISTEN COUTU PHOTO BABAK CONTESSA 19

CONTESSA 20 SEMI-FINALISTS

Men’s Hairstylist Kelly Baumgartner, The Lounge Hair Studio Cynthia Destroismaisons, La Coupe Montreal Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design Leblanc Johnson, Valentino’s Grande Salon Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Jaye McLeod, Moods Hair Salon Pascal Saab, The Artists by Johnny Pascal Thériault, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Silas Chi Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa

avant Garde Hairstylist Martin Alarie, Salon Pure Pamela Clough, Valentino’s Grande Salon Geneviève Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design Mélissa Frezza, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Franco Della Grazia, Franco & Co Natalia Petcu, Moods Hair Salon Kristina Poturica, Rituals in Hair and Skin Roberto Rella, Images Salon & Spa Rachel Vandray, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain

Makeup artist Courtney Costa, Pop Hair Studio Julie Coulombe-Duke, Freelance Heather Dyke, Hair Factory Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve Jessica Gignac, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio Giancarlo Intini, Ford Lana Johnston, Blackfriars Salon & Spa Maggie Ng, Freelance Melanie Pierce, Studio H Melanie Whitmore, Civello Salon & Spa

session Hairstylist Marty Boechler, Burke & Hair Inc. Yannick Brisebois, Les Associés Coiffeurs John Donato, Donato Salon & Spa John Graham, Vault Salon and Spa Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative Melissa Russell, Fuss Art of Hair Caffrey Van Horne, Caffrey Van Horne Alma Voloder, Yellow Orange Salon Spa Heather Wenman, Studio H

texture Hairstylist Jenny Bell, J.C. Salons Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio Frank Dicintio, Salon Goboa Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Lino Patraccone, Salon Inpure II Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Silas Chi Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous Lisa Watrich, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon

newcoMer Hairstylist Robin Achterberg, Carreiro The Salon Mikka Bitangcol, Ricci Hair Co. Jessica Bowen, The Cutting Room Aimee Cox, Moods Hair Salon Stéphanie Dagenais, Fluid et muse concept Amanda DiCarlo, Salon Inpure II Danille Mandap, Vault Salon and Spa Melissa Taylor, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape Barb Wells, Salon I.D.

Multicultural Hairstylist Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co. Mariana Canadas, Rituals in Hair and Skin John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc Carol Cini, Taz Hair Co. Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon and Spa Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc. Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa

student/apprentice Hairstylist Racquel Bautista, Salon G & A Inc. Bonnie Bentley, Windows Salon Tanya Berger, Moods Hair Salon Andrea Ciabattoni, Salon RED Marisa Dilisi, Xpression The Salon Julia Dyck, Vault Salon and Spa Nancy Georgey, Perms & Cuts Salon Sherlyn Sampang, Vault Salon and Spa Justin Teixeira, Marca College Sydney Woods, W Lifestyle Salon

BritisH coluMBia Hairstylist Jessica Bowen, The Cutting Room Kelsey Carvalho, Carreiro The Studio Liz Colley, Cabello Salon & Spa Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon Kevin Dieleman, The Cutting Room Davide Fattor, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Jesse Minty, L’Atelier Yaletown Salon Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon Lisa Watrich, La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon

alBerta Hairstylist Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co. Mikka Bitangcol, Ricci Hair Co. Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co. John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design Roberto Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Melissa Russell, Fuss Art of Hair Richa Sandhar, Elysium Hair Body Spirit Alann Sluser, Ricci Hair Co.

saskatcHewan/ManitoBa Hairstylist Alicia Austin, Chel Salonspa Mariana Canadas, Rituals in Hair and Skin Cynthia Chapil, Rituals in Hair and Skin Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon and Spa Jamey Leigh Dodds, Rituals in Hair and Skin Danille Mandap, Vault Salon and Spa Kristina Poturica, Rituals in Hair and Skin Kimball V. Regier, Chel Salonspa Michelle Stevenson, Rituals in Hair and Skin Reyn VonDyck, Elan Hair & Esthetics Salon

ontario Hairstylist Adriana Balea, Francesca’s Salon & Spa Jenny Bell, J.C. Salons Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve

Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Silas Chi Tsang, Blushes I Hair and Day Spa George Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous

QueBec Hairstylist Virginie Beauparlant, Continental Coiffure Yannick Brisebois, Les Associés Coiffeurs Claudio Dire, Claudio Coiffure International Geneviève Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Annie Généreux, Académie St-Laurent Coiffure Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain Valerie Meades, Salon Inpure II Alain Pereque, Salon Pure Dominik Vincent, Styl-Lib Coiffure Dennis Voltan, Salon Inpure

atlantic Hairstylist Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force Salon and Spa Jennifer Eveleigh, Jo’s Spa & Salon Alicia Langille, Concepts School of Cosmetology Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory Chrissy Marr, Hair Artistic & Laser Clinic Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory

nail art tecHnician Angela Fuhrer, Impressions Hair Group Anita Jokic, Vault Salon and Spa Meranda Kokoski, Flawless Hair Design Scarlett Mooney, Pure Elements Renee Ng, Yorkville School of Makeup & Esthetics Leticia Oliveira, Salon Delor Jennifer Sparks, Yorkville School of Makeup & Esthetics

nail enHanceMent artist Jennifer Bennett, Hair Factory Anita Jokic, Vault Salon and Spa Jennifer Mather, Polished Nail Design Group Inc Glenna Morris, Freelance Nail Technician Susan Schafer, Day Dreams Esthetics Studio Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics Tammy Upthegrove, It’s All About Me Esthetics & Nail Care Melissa Zaran, Rumors Hair Studio

salon interior desiGn Bob + Paige Salon Carreiro The Studio Fresh & Co. Salons Hair Junkie by Fads Ku’r Salon and Spa Privé Spa & Hair Studio Salon Delor

coMMunity service Cavalier Hair Fashions La Coupe Montreal Fame International Gallery Hair Salon The Head Shoppe Le Lab Salon On The Fringe Hair Design The Razors Edge Studio H Tangles Hair Salon Zennkai Salon

october 08 < salon

PROFILE

salon > october 08

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colour roch lemay cut louis hecther photos leda & st-jacques contessa 13; lemay bio shot www.perrysenecal.com

Colour is Energy

f his awesome new gig as director of education and events for professional hair-care behemoth Matrix doesn’t pan out, Roch Lemay could have a wicked career as a Wall Street broker. His eerily accurate powers of prediction have made the Montreal-based colourist among the most acclaimed and accomplished hair gurus on the planet, both at the salon and the corporate level, not to mention on the competitive circuit. What’s more, Lemay’s borderline scientific approach to forecasting future hair and fashion looks (to conveniently coincide with upcoming collections) is juxtaposed against an almost New Age-y philosophy on hair colour, which Lemay describes not as shades or hues but as “energies” and “emotions.” Maybe his former life as a graphic designer is to blame. Or the peripheral influence of his hairstylist father, Laurent. It could be the years Lemay spent living in Germany during his two-decade tenure with another massive international hair care company he prefers we not name. It could be some combination of the three, added to his years spent behind the chair. Whether it’s an ordinary client throwing herself at his mercy or a massive multinational strategically ramping up a new product release, Lemay is the man

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So says Roch Lemay by Kim Hughes who can locate the sweet spot. If he were selling stock market shares, his customers would be rich. “It’s true I am able to interpret trends, to visualize what’s coming up and where fashion is going,” the fluently bilingual Ottawa native offers on the phone from Montreal. “To predict trends takes a lot of research. I look at where textiles are going, I look to major cities like Paris, London, Tokyo, New York, cities in Russia and ask, ‘What is happening with street fashion? What is coming up? Who is the happening designer?’ “The health and direction of the economy also impacts trends. There is some guesswork, of course, but research is essential. I then storyboard the data and start interpreting from that to spot trends. “There are some people who are very lucky and have instant flare. But when you have a full slate of research to support your collection, you are much more likely to have success with it. For example, when we did the Clone collection pictured here (at Montreal salon Orbite, where he previously worked for about eight years), we did six months of research with the entire team meeting once a week to go through things step by step. “We arrived with a very strong collection that we submitted to seven categories at the Contessas (in 2002) and it won all seven,”

including Makeover Colourist of the Year for Lemay. Lemay, the tactician, morphs into Lemay, the artiste, when talking about his first love—colour. “If a client goes into a salon and says to a colourist, ‘What do you think would suit me?’ And he assesses her on the spot, it’s the biggest no-no he can do unless he has a very good relationship with her and really knows who she is. “The colourist may argue that he can determine a good colour for a client based on skin tone, eye colour etc. But that’s wrong. Colour is an energy. It evokes an emotion—positive, negative or neutral. “For example, let’s say a client hates red. It evokes a negative energy for her. I might think red would be perfect for her based on superficial things like skin tone. But she will nevertheless hate it emotionally and then go home and be unhappy. So colour consultation has changed to reflect this. You must conduct both an emotional and physical consultation with a client. “This is my way of working and communicating. I want to be sure that the colour I select for a client will not only look good but evoke positive, happy emotions in her. And now that I’m back in the corporate world,” Lemay says, adding that his new Matrix colleagues are dynamite, “I am responsible for teaching that as well.” S

october 08 < salon

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CHECK IT ONLINE

o c t o b e r ’08

Who made the cut?

Be the first to see the Contessa 20 finalists list by s u b s c r i b i n g t o t h e s a l o n 5 2 w e e k l y n e w s l e t t e r. ONLINE vIdEO EXCLUSIvES

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COLLECTIONS > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES+PROFILES > JOBS > VIDEOS > CONTESSA 82

salon > october 08

+ MORE w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Photo courtesy Schwarzkopf professional

SCHWARZKOPF

e xc lusiv e c ha t wi th Aveda

founde r Hor st R e c hel bacher.

INTERIORS

Real World Training at M.C. COLLEGE

Inside the Classroom

by Colette Wright

phOTOs COuRTEsy M.C. COLLEGE

oe Cairo, President of M.C. College, can now laugh about the time he was 10 years old having to wash hair, sweep the floor and unpack hair kits in his father’s (Frank Cairo) Marvel College classroom. “I promised myself I would practice law one day instead of working in education in the industry.” But years later, after obtaining a university degree and a knowledge of family business operations working from the ground up, Cairo remembers turning to his father and saying, “I’m not going to law school.” w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

october 08 < salon

INTERIORS

Today, Joe and his brother Dino Cairo are owners of M.C. College. Although the name has changed, the vision hasn’t—elevating our industry one graduate at a time. With a total of 79,000 sq. ft. of instructional space in its six major training centres located in Western Canada, M.C. College has revolutionized hair and esthetics training into a real world environment. Cairo called upon Linea Design to revamp each of the six sites into luxurious salon/spas with state-of-the-art of equipment, lighting and modern furniture. “We had to do this because we talked to local salons. Owners said they needed graduates who could hit the floor immediately and bring in business quickly.” Cairo says by immersing students into a salonlike classroom with all the bells and whistles, it’s an easier transition from school to the real world. The largest training centre (20,000 sq. ft.) is in Edmonton. Four salons have been built under one roof. Because each one has been designed differently, it allows students to experience a range of salons they may face upon graduation. Cairo says instructors who also work in the hair/esthetics industry act as the manager. “They are in charge like your typical salon owner/manager but give direction, feedback and, more importantly, teach proper etiquette and manners expected by a client.”

“Owners said they needed graduates who could hit the floor immediately and bring in business quickly.” Cairo has also hired professional front desk reception staff to teach students how to use computer programs to book and adjust appointments, as well as learn point of sale methods. “We have also installed retail shelves filled with product to instruct students on the importance of selling proper hair care to build revenue,” he adds. One floor of the Edmonton site is dedicated solely to a 12-month course in fashion design. Students have the opportunity to learn the skills in designing and creating their own collection upon graduation. Cairo says students don’t graduate without the lesson of marketing themselves. “Probably the most important tool of the trade is giving them personalized business cards to hand out as they complete 1400 hours of training.” Cairo says many M.C. College grads find themselves starting a professional career with a committed list of clientele. “This is one key feature that attracts any salon/spa owner who is always concerned about the bottom line." S Name:

M.C. College

Address:

10541 106 Street

Edmonton, AB T5H 2X5

Locations:

Kelowna, BC; Red Deer, Calgary & Edmonton, AB; Saskatoon, SK; Winnipeg, MB.

Size:

79,000 sq. ft. (Total space six locations)

Programs:

Hairstyling, Esthetics & Fashion Design

Interior Designer:

Linea Design

Management Software: DBBuilder Guest Vision

salon > october 08

Phone:

780.497.3150

Web Site:

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HOT PRODUCTS

hotpicks by Anupa Mistry

5 2

3 4

Bionic Hair Beautiful hair starts at the scalp. Kérastase’s new Biotic range, including the Bain BioRecharge shampoo, builds on this idea with their revolutionary bioflorine technology. Bioflorine works to purify and restore the scalp’s natural defenses against dehydration, build-up and heat damage. For more info, visit www.kerastase.com.

salon > october 08

Built to laSt Profound Beauty’s new Structure products offer hold and detailed, intricate styling – perfect for short hair – with varying finishes from laid-back matte to a natural shine. Pearl Finish illuminates the contour of locks and brings out its natural sheen, while Working Spray helps set the perfect look. For more info, visit www. profoundbeauty.com

Spritz Fix Dikson Move Me’s Fizzy Fix Hairspray pledges guaranteed results for super shiny, structured locks that can be easily re-shaped and re-styled. The humidity-resistant formula helps lock in style by keeping frizzies and fly-aways at bay. And if you change your mind midway through styling, just remove the product by brushing and start over. For more info, visit www.muster-dikson.com.

Sen-SeSSion-al Well-known Aussie hairstylist Kevin Murphy has a three-step philosophy for great hair: strength, moisture and regeneration. That’s why his glam-looking Session Spray, designed for firm and weightless hold, also contains nourishing agents such as wheat protein, natural fragrance oils and a UV shield. For more info, visit www. kevinmurphystore.com.

rougH play Sometimes hair just looks better the day after a cut or wash, and Redken’s Rough Clay 20 Matte Texturizer helps re-create that effortless style without the 24-hour wait. The moldable texturizing clay easily latches onto hair for simple styling and flexibility with a matte finish, minus annoying greasiness and clumping. For more info, visit www.redken.com

trompe l’oil Smoothing and healing argan oil, used by Moroccan women for centuries, is the star ingredient in the fourproduct MoroccanOil line. The care and styling products, which include Hydrating Styling Cream, Intense Curl Cream and the leave-in Intense Hydrating Mask, help hair to look good from the inside out. For more info, visit www. moroccanoil.com. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

photo chris tsintziras

all@star

deals

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SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER ’08 SPECIALS

Fashion Statement

Introducing Star’s NEW Runway Collection Colour Gel Kit

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salon: $29.95

Buy one Kapping Sealer for the regular price of $7.95 and get a second one FREE

Kapping Sealer... • is a liquid plastic that seals & protects artificial nails with a tough high gloss finish • contains special UV inhibitors brighten & prevent yellowing and fading

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salon: $7.95

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FOR MORE INFORMATION OR THE LOCATION OF THE STAR NAIL FULL-SERVICE DISTRIBUTOR NEAREST YOU CALL 1-877-852-STAR OR VISIT WWW.STARNAILCANADA.COM

events

OCTOBER 2008 SHOWS INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE ORLANDO October 4—6, 2008 Orange County Convention Centre, Orlando, FL Info: www.iecsc.com CALGARY ABA October 5—6, 2008 Calgary Exhibition & Stampede Park Calgary, AB Info: www.abacanada.com ESTHETICALLY YOURS October 5—6, 2008 Metro Toronto Convention Centre (North Building Hall C) Toronto, ON Info: www.spa-show.com PREMIERE BIRMINGHAM October 12—13, 2008 Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, AL Info: www.premiereshows.com SALON INTERNATIONAL October 18—20, 2008 ExCel Docklands, London, England Info: www.salonexhibitions.co.uk

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.6607 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including trend zoom seminars; Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: www.greatlengths.net KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORéAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW Sunday October 19, 2008 Royal Albert Hall Kensington Gore, London, England Info: www.alternativehair.org MONCTON ABA October 19—20, 2008 Coliseum & Agrena Complex Moncton, NB Info: www.abacanada.com HAIRAPALOOZA TORONTO Sunday, October 26, 2008 Venus Beauty, Toronto, ON Info: (905) 624-0470 ESTHETIQUE SPA INTERNATIONAL MONTREAL October 26—27, 2008 Palais des Congres de Montreal, Montreal, QC Info: www.spa-show.com TEXAS BEAUTY SHOW October 26—27, 2008 Dallas Convention Center Dallas, TX Info: www.texasbeautyshow.com TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.6607 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN

salon > october 08

SCHWARZKOPF EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor

See all class listings and full event coverage on www.salon52.ca.

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SCOOP

Calling All Redkenites!

Redken Canada is introducing the Redkenite Zone, an online community of Redken users accessible through www.redken.ca. Redken consumers can now go online and create a personalized Redken account, through which they will have a chance to enter ongoing contests, check out new products, download exclusive podcasts and learn about the latest Redken happenings. Go to www.redken.ca.

Another Mane Event Back for its 11th year, the Mane Event haircutting extravaganza will take place Sunday, October 26. Generating almost $200,000 for The Teresa Group over the past 10 years, the event hopes to surpass $32,000 in revenue this year alone. Founded by Steve Roy, the Mane Event recruits salons to cut hair and donate 100 per cent of the proceeds The Teresa Group, Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest community-based charitable organization specifically serving children affected by HIV and AIDS and their families. Go to www. teresagroup.ca to get involved. 90

salon > october 08

Creative Path

CND has named Jerry Sisti as its new creative director. Responsible for developing and directing CNDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s marketing initiatives, Sisti brings years of advertising and visual communications experience to the role. For more on CND, visit www.cnd.com.

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Luxury Goods

The new Liquid

Luxury magazine from Senscience takes readers stepby-step through three, elegant styles: the Glide, the Strut and the Walk. Download your copy of Liquid Luxury today at www.senscience.com.

Crewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Crew American Crew shared its vision for the future of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grooming with distributor partners from around the globe at its first annual global marketing conference. The two-day event, held this past July in Orlando, Florida, included informative presentations on retail and salon trends, and a sneak peak into future in-salon and education activities from American Crew. Go to www.americancrew.com for more.

! " # # $ %

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gift giver Enhance your image this holiday season with custom-printed CardBook Cardholders from Action Bag. Ideal for service menus, maps, coupons and greeting cards, Action Bagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cardholders come in a variety of designs and colours. Call 866.675.3016 or go to www.actionbag.com and request your free samples today. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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Joico Design Collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;100.........................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com Kaaral Pink-Upâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;45...................................................................................... www.kaaral.com KQCâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;74......................................................................................................... www.kqcbeauty.com LakmĂŠ k.styleâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;25 ......................................................................................... www.lakme.com LCN Color Gel Miracle Glitterâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;85 .................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca Logics Color DNA Systemâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;2-3 .....................888-422-6879 ........................ www.logicshair.com Matrix ColorSyncâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;31 .....................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix SoColorâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;29 ........................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com MC Collegeâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;90 ............................................................................................. www.mccollege.ca Milano Computer Systems Inc.â&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;95...............800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com Moroccan Oilâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;37 ...........................................888-700-1817 ........................ www.moroccanoil.com NeoExtensionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;88 ....................................................................................... www.neoextensions.net OPI Pink of Heartsâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;17..................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Redken EQ Shadesâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;8-9 ................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon52â&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;82....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf BlondMeâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;6-7...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.blondme.com Schwarzkopf Club SKPâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;18 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Shark Fin Shearsâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;67 ....................................888-544-7254 ........................ www.sharkfinshears.com Star Nailâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;87 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio NaturalĂŠâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;77 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.cuccio.com

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salon > october 08

Torlen Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; pgâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;65 .................................888-438-9254 ........................ www.torlenpro.com

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P R E S S PA S S

REdkEn OnE X OnE Cut-AthOn Over 30 hairstylists gathered at Toronto’s Dundas Square on Monday, August 11 to launch Redken’s second annual One X One Cut-athon. The day’s event officially opened Redken’s weeklong initiative to raise $250,000 for One X One, an organization supporting kids living in poverty in Canada and around the world. Go to www.salon52.ca for full One X One coverage.

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october 08 < salon

P R E S S PA S S

REwARding ExcEllEncE For over 10 years, Schwarzkopf Professional has been awarding sales consultants nationally with an all-expenses paid trip to an exotic destination. Over 50 consultants make the trip each year (this year Belgium and Holland), and three are recognized for excellence. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s honourees are: 1. Sales Consultant of the Year, Michel Cuerrier, Chalut Cie Lte. 2. Spirit of Professionalism, Sandro Aimola, CanRad Beauty Ltd. 3. Newcomer of the Year, Chris Buckley, Venus Beauty Supply

salon > october 08

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InsIghtful Istanbul Dermalogica recently held their biennial congress in Istanbul, Turkey from July 30 to August 4. Founder and owner Jane Wurwand welcomed over 2000 skin therapists from around the world. They gathered for in-depth new product launches (see page 34 for the new Shave line) and demonstrations as well as businessbuilding sessions and enjoyment of the sights and sounds of Turkeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest city.

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october 08< salon

P R E S S PA S S

Marketplace Your guide to products and services for professional salons

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DBK In ThE PInK On Sunday, July 20, the staff at DBK Salon & Spa in Toronto held Cuts-for-Cure cut-athon and raised $2,000 for the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation. The theme of the event was pink, by incorporating pink extensions, pink nail polish, and pink hair colour along with providing hair cuts for men and women. The successful event was also a great morale booster for staff as well.

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salon > october 08

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to subscribe or renew your subscription see form on page 92 SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 17 Issue 13 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Nacora Insurance Brokers Ltd. 6451 Northwest Drive, Mississauga, ON Phone: (905) 405-8827 ext: 575 Fax: (905) 677-6380 Toll Free: 1-800-761-4938 Email:info.canada@nacora.com Website: www.nacora.com

TickeTs On sale nOw for Contessa 20 and Contessa Uplugged. Call 416.869.3131 x108 or go to www.salon52.ca for more information.

Send your change of address to Salon Magazine see form on page 92 october 08 < salon

LAST WORD

Jheri curls. Need I say more?

recently arranged to get together with the multi-talented stylist, Adrian Carew, in his delightful studio Hair2 Inc. on Toronto’s tony Scollard Street. I wanted the benefit of his abundant experience in ethnic hairdressing, because I believe it’s important to know as much as possible about every aspect of hair. Adrian commented that although in the past, most schools offered a class on super-curly hair to future stylists, probably 90 percent of hairdressing students chose not to take it. Fortunately that has changed, possibly because of Canada’s multi-ethnicity. Certainly all the assistants in my salon are taking this class and learning how to do braiding and weaving, among other things. “There is a huge spectrum of African-descent hair,” Adrian said. “Hair is hair.” How true. Like Caucasian hair, ethnic hair varies in texture and curl pattern. But it’s often delicate, coarse, has a tight curl pattern and is more vulnerable to damage from chemical treatments. It’s hardly surprising, therefore, that the Jheri curl—made so popular in the late 70s and then into the 80s MTV generation by stars like Rick James and Michael Jackson—eventually went out of fashion. The harsh mix of chemicals the process required caused the hair to become extremely brittle and dry. And to maintain the look, users had to apply activator and oily moisturizers daily—and sleep with a plastic cap on their heads to keep the hairstyle from drying out. What price fashion, say I. “Ethnic curly hair should always be treated with high-end moisture products,” Adrian advises. “This is key.” Madam C.J. Walker was a woman who knew all about that. She built a fortune in the early 1900s marketing hair-care and beauty products to AfricanAmerican women. Described by The Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s first female self-made millionaire, Walker had more than enough reasons not to succeed. Born

salon > october 08

into poverty in Louisiana in 1867 to sharecroppers who had been slaves, she was orphaned at seven, married at 14, a mother at 18 and a widow at 20. Her brothers had established themselves as barbers in St. Louis, and the young single mother went there to support herself and her daughter by working in a laundry. Walker became personally interested in the hair-care business in the 1890s, when a scalp ailment caused her to almost go bald. She started experimenting with homemade remedies and developed her own recipes. She sold her Wonderful Hair Grower, Glossine pressing oil and Vegetable Shampoo door-to-door, and instructed women on hair and scalp treatments. Two short marriages and two relocations later, this enterprising lady headed up The Walker College of Hair Culture and Walker Manufacturing Co. in Indianapolis, eventually expanding to Jamaica, Cuba, Costa Rica, Panama and Haiti. By 1919, Walker offered meaningful and well-paid employment and personal growth to thousands of African American women, employing 3,000 workers at the factory and more than 20,000 agents. Her daughter, Lelia, ran the mail-order side of the business. By the time of her early death at 52 (on her estate in a wealthy New York area where the likes of John D. Rockefeller was her neighbour), this hair-care entrepreneur, tycoon and philanthropist had built an empire on smart and honest business dealings, trained future “hair culturists” and offered quality products to help African American women take good care of their hair. “There is no royal flower-strewn path to success,” Walker once observed. “And if there is, I have not found it—for if I have accomplished anything in life it is because I have been willing to work hard.” We could all take note of that. S John Steinberg is at John Steinberg and Associates in Toronto. He is currently celebrating 49 years in the beauty business. Check out www.johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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JUPITERIMAGES

John Steinberg winds through the past for a lesson in success

presents

CONTESSA

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