Salon Magazine, October 2010 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

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In Living Colour

Techniques, latest launches, celebrity hit or miss and more plus Contessa 22 semi-finalists

october 10 $5 salon52.ca

9/1/10 11:27:00 AM

Congratulations to our 2010 Destination Fame contest winners

who got the chance to experience 3 days of FAME at our prestigious Academy in Toronto. Be inspired by their creativity expressed during this amazing professional photoshoot.

Get ready for Destination Fame 2011 edition. IMAGINE IT COULD BE YOU... DestinationFame_SALON_FINAL.indd 2-3 002.003.se.o10.matrix.2.indd 2

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"I am very fortunate to have been surrounded by such passionate people. Thank you Matrix for all that you have done for me! This experience has inspired me to strive for more"

“Never in my wildest dreams would I imagine to be working along side the Matrix’s Global Team artists.They inspired me with their talent and guidance. I have to say that this experience is definitely a highlight in my career!”

Michelle Surgeson from Midnapore Hairstyling in Calgary, Alberta

Paula Smith from Lounge on Church in Fonthill, Ontario

"This opportunity was an invaluable learning experience, publicity, career elevation, and 3 fabulous fun filled days. I love the gorgeous photos of my work! "

“Participating in a professional photoshoot of this magnitude was my biggest dream, and thanks to Matrix, I was able to live my dream! Thank you to all the team for sharing your passion and your love of this profession.”

Heidi Kenney from Heidi Kenney Hair Studio in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

Annie Bilodeau from Escomptes Coiffe in Loretteville, Quebec

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ÂŠ 2010 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962

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LICENSE TO BLONDE HIGH-LIFT THE GENTLE WAY. Create high-lift blondes the gentle way with the exciting new range of Koleston Perfect速 Special Blondes featuring 5 new shades. Innovative Triluxiv Plus technology ensures unsurpassed high-lift and smoothness you will see for yourself when you comb through after color rinse.

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DISCOVER INOA TODAY 1-877-281-2798 OR WWW.INOA.CA

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COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders

Vero K-PAK Color: 5XR, 7XR, 4FV, TBB with 10 Volume Veroxide

9/1/10 8/27/103:57:27 11:14 PM AM

Holiday promotion – Kérastase 2010

This Holiday season, KérasTase salons will shine brightly! PreCIOUs MOMeNts For this end-of-year campaign, KérasTase has drawn inspiration from the richest and most luxurious colour: Gold.

Carl d. MorIsseT

Marketing and commercial director

“PreCIous MoMeNTs”, a name that symbolizes the beautiful moments offered by KérasTase. These moments are unique, dedicated to beauty and the well-being of each and every one of us, spent in a professional and lavish environment. “PreCIous MoMeNTs” also describes the rituals offered in salons as well as those experienced at home with KérasTase products.

“as you already know, people tend to spend more freely when the Holidays come around. It is therefore up to us to take advantage of this opportunity by offering great promotions. Many among you already have beautiful windows that are used to draw in more customers. With five years of experience in luxury brands distributed in large stores under my belt, I believe it is up to us to create an innovative salon eVeNT and to benefit from these magical moments to astound our customers and fulfill their wishes. Isn’t that what the magic of Christmas is all about?”

The importance of merchandising in the KérasTase salons. To offer the KérasTase salons a 360-degree approach, KérasTase firmly believes in the implementation of merchandising in a salon’s different points of contact to maximise retail revenue. 1. WINdoW: an essential opportunity to recruit customers to the salon. This is one of the reasons why department stores spend vast amounts of money to make sure they deploy new windows to stimulate their consumers. 2. THe WelCoMe area aNd THe reGIsTer: The purpose is to make sure the customers remain loyal. Just make sure to open and close the visit by offering your different products and services. 3. THe dIaGNosTIC sPaCe: It highlights the hairdresser’s prescription and expertise through a professional approach. This step is crucial when it comes to sales. When a diagnostic is made, you are almost certain to close a sale. Take the time to talk hair with your customers! If you don’t, no one else will!

KérasTase presents variying inspirations in its salons, adding to the unique salon experience it already offers customers. starting this November, be on the lookout for the “Gold” windows at KérasTase salons! The salon with the best and most original concept will win a vacation gift certificate, courtesy of KérasTase.

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4. THe Care aNd resale seCTIoN: The customer must enjoy a transformation experience, and it is up to the hairdresser to show how to use the products. Take a moment to put the products in the customer’s hands! This technique has proven efficient in the makeup sections of the major department stores.

To nominate your salon and join the KérasTase community, please contact us at 1-866-KérasTase.

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Kérastase unveils the magic of oils Kérastase eLIXIr ULtIMe the alchemy of four precious oils to beautify hair a new legend is born, the secret of magnificent hair is revealed. With a few drops of elixir ultime, hair is transformed into silky, weightless matter. • applied before cleansing, hair is instantly nourished and visibly regenerated. • applied before styling, hair is incredibly supple and protected. • applied as a finishing touch, hair glows with shine. • each day, it becomes a new daily essential to the beauty routine.

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L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL WOULD LIKE TO CONGRATULATE ALL OUR AWARD-WINNING PARTNERS OF

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2. Contemporary Classic Alain Pereque Salon Pure, Montreal

1. North American Hairstylist of the Year Tony Ricci – Ricci Hair Co, Edmonton

2010

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4. Best Salon Team Salon Pure, Montreal

3. Fashion Forward Antoine Vadacchino Salon Pure, Montreal

We would also like to extend our CONGRATULATIONS to all other recipients.

BRAVO!

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Angus Mitchell

october.10

COLOUR CONFIDENTIAL

We chatted with three colourists to get the lowdown on their signature colour techniques

44 46

IN THE ZONE

the business of beauty and style

CELEBRITY COLOUR: HIT OR MISS?

You told us your thoughts on Facebook and Twitter about three Hollywood starlets' new hues

COLOUR ME MANLY

magazine

Male clients can benefit from a little colour enhancement

How to combat porous areas of the hair when applying colour

COLOUR NEWS

From cotton highlighting pads to the newest shades, we bring you the latest colour must-haves

GET TONED

Providing the perfect colour consultation

salon > october 10

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fEatures GOODBYE 56 SAYING TO A CANADIAN COLOUR PIONEER

Lili Jakel remembered for her expertise

58 hair collections

Looks from Saco, Oscar Cullinan, Rudy Pignataro, Vidal Sassoon, Angus Mitchell and Robert Bava

CONTESSA SEMI-FINALISTS

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

l salon

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In Living Colour

Techniques, latest launches, celebrity hit or miss and more plus Contessa 22 semi-finalists

october 10 $5 salon52.ca

Collection: Illumination Hair: Oscar Cullinan, Oscar Oscar Salon Makeup: Noni Smith Styling: Leticia Dare Photo: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

8/25/10 5:31:04 PM

salon52.ca

9/1/10 11:30:40 AM

LACQUERS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Color So Hot It Berns, Just a Little Rösti at This, From A to Z-urich, Glitzerland, I’m Suzi & I’m a Chocoholic, Diva of Geneva, The Color to Watch, Lucerne-tainly Look Marvelous, Yodel Me on My Cell, Ski Teal We Drop, Cuckoo for this Color, William Tell Me About OPI

Try it on at opi.com Model is wearing Yodel Me on My Cell

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9/1/10 2:38:21 PM

SHELF LIFE Six must-have products your clients will love

Robert Bava

REGULARS 22 EDITOR’S LETTER 24 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 26 SALON52.CA

PROFILE

CONTESSA GALLERY

This month on salon52.ca

Vidal Sassoon

salon > october 10

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HAIRLINES Got your tickets to the Contessa gala yet? Time is running out! p.29; Tigi launches its latest collection book titled Anthem and the new Styleshots line of products p.30; Lanvain solves all your drying needs with the new Hot Mug from Uki p.30; Paul Mitchell introduces treatment line Awapuhi p.30; Sebastian Professional launches the What’s Next Award p.32; The latest treatments from Unite and CHI offer ultra-luxe ingredients p.32; Lauren Holly confesses her love of Pure Hair and Christina Hendricks sports China Glaze p.32; Canada welcomes a new line of Tuft tools p.34; Quantum refreshes the look and vibe of its wetline p.34; Joico announces the 2010 Vero K-Pak Color Competition winner p.36; A guide to maximizing your profits during the holiday season p.38; Shelf Life offers up six new products your clients will love p.40

Up close and personal with Beth Minardi, one of the best-known colourists in North America

The team from Donato Salon + Spa chats about its C21 Salon Team of the Year collection

NAILS Get bold with your mani options by offering custom colour options

ESTHETICS Get the scoop on protecting client’s skin from harsh winter weather

INTERIORS

86 88

SCOOP

LAST WORD

Alvaro, Quebec hairstylist to the stars, finds a new creative home

EVENTS Coverage of JPMS The Gathering, Repêchage 30th anniversary, Matrix Destination Fame and more

by John Steinberg

salon52.ca

9/2/10 2:45:00 PM

GOOD-BYE FLAWED.

No more edge wear. No more chips, scratches or dulling. No more signs of wear after a couple of emails.

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8/20/10 9:42 AM 9/1/10 2:43:03 PM

EDITOR’S LETTER

Colour Me Contessa

TREND RELEASE Essential Looks 2:2010 Sunday, October 24th, 2010 Doors Open: 6:30PM. Essential Looks 2:2010 begins at 7:00PM Hair Stylist Competition to follow

2 HAIR STYLIST COMPETITIONS:

Kool Haus, 132 Queens Quay East, Toronto

Cocktails DJ spinning a beat

New Talent & Professional

Event is open to all stylists and general public. Must be 16 years or older to attend. If you have any questions please contact your Schwarzkopf Sales Representative or Schwarzkopf Professional at 905.366.8894 All ticket holders will receive a swag bag of products at the door. No refunds allowed.

In partnership with:

salon > october 10

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Emily Gravelle Editor

PHOTO BABAK, HAIR AND MAKEUP CHERYL GUSHUE

ince beginning my role as Editor at Salon Magazine, there has been one word in particular that’s been top-ofmind—Contessa! No one could have prepared me for the whirlwind of activity that has surrounded the Contessa Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards. From our extensive planning of the “Queens” theme that will take centre stage on gala night, to the flood of entries that came through our door in August, there is no shortage of action in our office. Being so extensively involved in the awards is a satisfying part of my job. Admittedly, I was blown away by many of the entries, not just because they contained great photographs, but because I’m seeing artists at the top of their game, honing their skills and truly developing their creativity. On the day of the entry deadline, I had the pleasure of meeting one entrant who arrived to drop off her submission in person. She told me about how she had only decided to enter the Contessas a mere two weeks before. I asked what inspired her to compete with such little turnaround time, and she said it was due to the praise of a colleague who deemed one of her haircuts on a client “Contessa worthy.” I then heard the story of how she feverishly put together an entire photo shoot in a matter of days, complete with a photographer, models, makeup artist and of course, competition-ready hair! Seeing that kind of passion is truly inspiring. It shows that hairstylists love what they do and when such enthusiasm transpires into everyday salon life, it’s a recipe for success. I look forward to seeing you next month at the Contessa gala on Nov. 14.

©Essential Looks 2: 2010

Media Partners:

salon52.ca

9/1/10 11:32:38 AM

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 19 issue 13

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Emily Gravelle > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | emily@beautynet.com group ART DIRECTor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com editor-in-chief (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com managing Editor

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com associate editor

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com designer

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com

senior staff writer

Pam Fulford

The Game Plan

copy Editor

Allan Britnell Contributors

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright publisher/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com

ecently, I attended the memorial service for Lili Jakel of Michael Kluthe Salon in Toronto. As a veteran in the business for almost 50 years, she was known as the über colourist—not just in Canada, but around the world. Jakel made a huge contribution to the colour industry. (See p. 56 for more info.) At Jakel’s memorial service, I heard so many of her close family and friends speak about her start in the industry—it’s pretty spectacular what she had achieved considering she had little formal training. But then again—she came from an era where many beauty pros were self-taught. However, she threw herself into education and raised the standard of the industry. She made the investment in her career, and was very active in the community of colourists. In my opinion, this is key in any career development. The days of graduating from beauty school and simply setting up shop are long over. Often I’m asked about having a career in this industry—is it a good career? What’s the best school? My advice is to spend four to five years getting good training. Not unlike the length of time it takes to earn a university degree. Without a strong education, it will be just a job and most likely will quickly fizzle out. I see training as generally one year in beauty school, then, one to two years of apprenticeship, next advanced training programs. Then finally, working your way up from junior professional to mid level. In the end, you’ll be looking at about five years—and the learning never stops! Don’t just take my word for it—check our another leading world colourist—Beth Minardi’s comments (p. 54) on her career path and how education played an important role. There’s always a few wunderkinds (just like fashion designers who have an unbelievable creativity and make it). But for the rest of us, a game plan in place is a much surer bet for a brighter future.

U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com Sales Associate

Alice Ardal > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | alice@beautynet.com production manager

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com operations manager

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulation manager

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca Finance

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com cHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vice-president & West coast editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

Subscription rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 HST included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD a ddr ess c ha n ge s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada

Phone: 905.729.1288

S AL ON M AG AZ IN E 365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4

Hair Bill Rowley Photo BABAK

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Director of Sales & Business Development

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com

T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

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Top Five

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclable p

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in cana d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon > october 10

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salon52.ca what’s on

october 10

HAIR: SACO CREATIVE TEAM, MAKEUP: ANDREW GALLIMORE,

collections > SACO - PRIMARY > OSCAR CULLINAN - ILLUMINATION > SASSOON - BLAST > ANGUS MITCHELL - ALCHEMY > ROBERT BAVA - CYBER TRIBE

STYLING: SAGA WIDEN, PHOTO: DAVID OLDHAM

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

WIN ONE OF 10 TOOL KITS! Log on to win one of 10 high-performance salon tool prize packs from Tuft Elemental Hair Care. Each prize pack contains one 7009c31 Spin Curl curling iron, 8800C Light Dryer and 6656C Titanium flat iron. (Valued at $565 each).

Come and witness the coronation of Canada’s top hairstylists at the 22nd Canadian Hairstylist of the Year awards! On Sunday, Nov. 14, beauty professionals from across the country will walk the red carpet at Contessa 22, hosted at the Sheraton Centre Hotel in Toronto. Tickets are on sale now. To purchase, call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 or email contessas@beautynet.com

s52 blog Straight to your inbox! See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign-up today. 26

salon > october 10

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Check out salon52.ca/blog for the latest news and photos from guest blogger Fabio Sementilli, and hair gossip, celebrity style, photos and the lowdown on salon politics.

talk to us!

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

salon52.ca

9/2/10 2:46:44 PM

LOS ANGELES NEW YORK LONDON TORONTO UNITEHAIR.CA

UNITE EUROTHERAPY速 PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM

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why Kevin? KEVIN.MURPHY products are paraben- and sulphatefree, made from renewable and sustainable resources where ever possible and use pure and natural ingredients. The hands-on education is interactive with a focus on executing the red carpet and editorial looks that your clients want. Learn tricks of the trade from worldrenowned session artists.

what’s new with Kevin?

where’s Kevin?

Powder.Puff

Kevin Murphy Global Artistic Team members are coming to British Columbia and Alberta:

The technology behind POWDER.PUFF allows powder to morph into paste and become invisible while giving lots of support. Seaweed extracts from France along with extracts from apples, plums, cranberries and citrus were key in creating this unique powder volumiser. Simply shake a tiny amount onto your client’s dry hair, massage in and watch their hair grow!

Grande Prairie, AB – Oct. 24 Kelowna, BC – Oct. 24 show; Oct 25th hands on Victoria, BC – Oct. 27 show; Oct. 28th hands on Vancouver, BC – Nov. 14 show; Nov. 15th hands on See Kevin demonstrating his skills on CityLine and in podcasts at fashionmagazine.com

Available at these distributors Ontario & Maritimes

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800-387-2962

Now Distributing in the Maritimes!

Alberta, Saskatchewan & Manitoba

800-642-3818

British Columbia

800-661-2707

9/2/10 1:24:08 PM

hairlines

news

Regal Beauty

Collection: Contessa 21, Alberta Hairstylist of the Year John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton, Makeup: Nancy Ferreira, Photo: Martin Bougie

Get ready! The Contessa Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards is next month

salon52.ca

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he Contessas, Canada’s most anticipated red carpet beauty gala, is happening on Sunday, Nov. 14. Tickets for this red-hot event are going fast! So be sure to email contessas@beautynet.com or call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 to reserve your place. You will want to be in attendance to find out who will be crowned hair royalty for 2011. Maybe it’s you! Plus join us at Toronto’s Rockwood + Grass Nightclub to celebrate at the after party. october 10 < salon

9/2/10 3:36:53 PM

hairlines

news

Awe Inspiring

he creative team from Tigi has introduced the Bed Head Anthems collection for 2010. This hardcover coffee-table book features 320 pages of raw, urban styles, comprehensive step-by-steps and a glimpse behind-the-scenes of the shoot. It also comes with two DVDs, digital copies of collections Sinners and Anthems. Beginning to end, this book takes you through the journey of Bed Head’s iconic products. From the famed Bed Head Stick (the starting point of the brand that made it synonymous with youth culture) to everpopular products like Manipulator and WIN IT! Hard to Get, this collection is all about • Need a little inspiration yourself? Head to salon52.ca eclecticism and being an individual for a shot at winning one of within a group.

www

these books for your salon waiting area or coffee table at home. Contest runs Oct. 15 to 29.

Tigi has also introduced a new range of products called Styleshots that’s meant to boost the effectiveness of styling post-wash. With three categories—Epic Volume, Hi-Def Curls and Extreme Straight—these style activating shampoos and conditioners have got all your clients covered. Packed with different formulations of styling amplifiers, the duos also give hair extra nourishment. Info: tigihaircare.com

Hawaiian Treat John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) introduces a new line for clients with dry, damaged hair Taking luxury to the next level, JPMS has launched the Awapuhi line of repair, care and styling products. Formulated with Awapuhi (a ginger plant native to Hawaii) and the patented Keratriplex Blend, these products are meant to penetrate, repair and seal damaged hair. The entire system is colour safe and includes the following: Keratriplex 2-Step Repair, Moisturizing Lather Shampoo, Keratin Cream Rinse, Keratin Intensive Treatment, Styling Treatment Oil, Texturizing Sea Spray, Shine Spray and Finishing Spray. Info: paulmitchell.com

salon > october 10

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High and Dry High-end Italian salon beauty supplier Uki has fine-tuned Hot Mug, a futuristic hair-drying headset with a double bell, various drying programs at the touch of a button and an ionizer function. Versatility is the name of the game, as castor wheels make this dryer moveable or it can be secured on the wall. Info: lanvain.com

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hairlines

news

Celeb Spotting Lauren Holly has pronounced her love of Pure Hair Extensions. Holly praises the minimal salon time and maintenance required for these affordable, eco-friendly extentions. On the nail radar, celebrity manicurist Jenna Hipp worked on a photo shoot with Christina Hendricks from TV series Mad Men for Los Angeles Times Magazine. Hipp used China Glaze Stella from the Retro Diva collection.

Win a chance to work backstage at NY Fashion Week

Be Fierce

ebastian Professional presents the Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Next Award for those who want to prove they can create Fearless Texture. To enter, simply create a strong, textured look using exclusively Sebastian products and submit it online at whatsnextaward.com. From there, consumers will vote and every two weeks a finalist will be chosen. When there are eight finalists total, one lucky winner will be selected to receive the grand prize of working backstage at Fashion Week in New York. Plus, at the end of the contest one consumer name will be drawn to attend NY Fashion Week, too! Entries will be judged on the following criteria: overall consistency with the Fearless Texture theme, inspiration behind the look, skillful use of Sebastian Professional products to create it and originality of style. Contest runs until Dec. 23, 2010.

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Unite has three new Repair Treatments available to cater to a varied clientele. These Volumizing, Moisturizing and Smoothing Repair treatments are paraben and sodium chloride-free, vegan, colour safe and help replenish and strengthen the hair. Formulated with a deep penetrating moisturizer and vegetable protein blend, this wetline has been shown to reduce breakage by up to 80 per cent. Info: unitehair.com

Pamper clients with Farouk Royal Treatment by CHI White Truffle and Pearl sulfate and paraben-free system, which offers four simple steps for perfect hair: cleanse, nurture, achieve and complete. Vitamin B, found in white truffle, beautifies hair while the natural UV filtering properties of pearl protect hair from environmental damage. Info: farouk.com

runway photos: courtesy sebastian professional; celebrity photos: Christina Hendricks photo courtesy china glaze; top right photo courtesy pure hair

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hairlines

toolbox

Tuft Enough Canada welcomes a new line of sleek, high-performance tools The analogue temperature control and LED on/off indicator is great for keeping easy tabs while working.

This dryer features two speed settings and strong airflow, two heat settings and a style setting cold shot button. With Johnson DC motor technology, this dryer is ultra lightweight, compact and durable. Plus it has a 2.8 m. cord for ease of styling.

These extra-long 4Â˝ in. floating mirrored titanium plates have a heat recovery time of less than five seconds. And, the width of the plates allow for easy movement through the hair. A grooved barrel made with ceramic, which emits negative ions to eliminate static, neutralize bacteria and closes the hair cuticle for a smooth end result.

WIN IT! Head to salon52.ca for ten chances to win a Tuft 1Âź in. Ceramic Spin Curl, Light Dryer and 1 in. Titanium Flat Iron. Contest runs Sept. 17 to Oct. 1, 2010.

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A finger-controlled rotating clamp allows for curling without turning the wrist, which minimizes repetitive strain injury.

Cool tip with colour temperature indicator ring.

Feeling Blue

aving been sold in Canadian salons for nearly three decades, Quantum has relaunched its wetline with a completely

new vibe and look. The line is still the same favourite products and formulations, but now it has stronger shelf presence and clearer packaging that will intrigue your clients and encourage them to purchase at-home care. The new packaging was inspired by vibrant colours, mainly bright shades of blue, that will distinguish this line and make it stand out on your retail shelves. Info: 800.267.4676

salon > october 10

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salon52.ca

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hairlines

news

Colour Champ

Graden van Erkelens takes home top nods in this year’s Joico Vero K-Pak Color Competition

Collection: Bionic, 2010 Joico Vero K-Pak Color Competition Hair, Styling, Photos: Graden van Erkelens Makeup: Dayna Read

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here’s reason to celebrate at Vancouver’s On the Fringe Hair Design as one of the salon’s very own, Graden van Erkelens, has come in first place in Joico’s annual Vero K-Pak Color Competition. “Photo shoots are a way for me to flex my creative and competitive muscles,” he says. Van Erkelens fell in love with colour the moment he started beauty school in 2004 and could really get his hands dirty. This year was his second time entering the competition. Inspired by music, van Erkelens says, “I have a bit of an overactive imagination and tend to dream up characters while listening to a song on repeat. My main influence for the Bionic collection was a song by Roisin Murphy titled Overpowered. I really wanted an android feel for this collection.” As far as technique goes, he used 12 foils in total and an all over colour. Slicing and staggering the foils on a diagonal to cover more surface area, the desired effect is visual motion. Van Erkelens sums it up best: “Simple and effective.”

salon52.ca

9/1/10 12:29:38 PM

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hairlines

business

Handling the Holidays A guide to coping with the frenzy and maximizing your profits during the holiday season

salon > october 10

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program for your staff, as a motivated employees will increase retail sales during this crucial time. This will also work to keep your staff focused through the busiest time of the year.

Holiday Booking Obviously the name of the game here is to get as many clients in as possible without sacrificing service. During the holiday season, Kirk likes to have the majority of her clients pre-booked, have all of her own shopping done and hire extra help. Time is literally money, so she also confirms all appointments and has a cancellation list in effect. “Schedule strategically. Have enough staff to cover extended hours, from the service staff to the retail staff. As a business owner, be prepared not only to help out during the busiest time of the year, but also to motivate and celebrate your salon’s success with your staff,” says Weeks.

In-salon Holiday Promos Beyond retailing promos, it’s also a good idea to do in-salon holiday deals and tie in professional services with retail products. Our experts suggest a range of things like an updo service and finishing spray promotion, salon gift certificates, gift wrapping services and so on. The main thing during the holiday season is to make sure the client’s experience rings true to the season, from the greeting when they arrive to wishes of happy holidays when they leave, and everything in between. After all, ‘tis the season to be merry!

text: melissa brazier, photo: thinkstock

Holiday Retailing With your clients rushing around to buy gifts for family and friends, why not suggest they finish up their shopping right in your salon? Jay Weeks, sales manager for west coast distributor Modern Beauty Supplies, says, “The salon must simplify the holiday shoppers buying experience by dedicating a [separate] space for holiday retail products.” Debra Kirk, owner of Sudbury, ON’s V.I.P. Hair Studio & Professional Product Outlet, agrees adding, “In regards to holiday gift sets and promotions, I think it’s most important to appeal to all demographics and clearly display what is being offered.” Kirk’s salon won a prize from Matrix for Best Holiday Display in 2009, and her trifecta for an effective display is as follows: 1. Lighting that draws clients to the display, 2. Keep all holiday décor neat and orderly (stay away from the overly gaudy and tacky), 3. Affordability (this will move items better). She also likes to feature gift-with-purchase promos, because everyone likes to receive something free, especially during the holidays when expenditures are higher than normal. Weeks says communication is key to making the purchasing decision as easy as possible. This can be accomplished through shelf talkers, visible price points and concise product information. Weeks also suggests introducing holiday promotions by having a special preview evening and inviting clients and their friends to attend. He would also advise doing a holiday incentive

salon52.ca

9/2/10 2:49:05 PM

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hairlines

shelf life

Six new products your clients will love

1 4

smooth move Keep locks in place with Tigi Rockaholic Rock My World Stellar Smoothing Cream. Whether slicking short hair into place, or smoothing frizz into a ponytail, the light, softlyscented cream works on any client, and prevents thermal damage at the same time. Info: tigihaircare.com

think pink L’Oréal Professionnel introduces a bright new protectant, Lumino Contrast Thermo Protective Xylose. The shine-enhancing protective spray is specially formulated to nourish and protect highlighted hair from the drying effects of heat styling. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

Design Line Matrix is expanding its Design Pulse range of products with three new additions: Thermo Glide Express Blowout Crème, Beach Clay Strong Destructing Mud and Fibre Shuffle Fibrous Play Paste, all designed to increase your style-factor. Info: matrix.com

5 5 2

Print Happy Wahl’s newest dryer, in an eclectic flower and skull print, features six heat settings, two speed settings and advanced, built-in tourmaline technologies to minimize drying time and reduce static and frizz. Info: wahlglobal.com

bond girl SpaRitual TrueBond Strong Hold Basecoat and Topcoat are the perfect twosome to keep in your mani-pedi kit. Formulated with advanced technology to help bond and protect lacquer, the duo promises a longer life for pristine nails. Info: sparitual.com

Photo: Chris Tsintziras Text: Melissa Brazier

3 Re-Definition Male clients need a powerful styling kit to keep short, defined styles looking their best. Redken For Men Defining Wax Shine Form gives a high-shine finish to moldable, flexible looks. Info: redken.ca S

www • For more of the latest products check out salon52.ca

salon > october 10

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9/1/10 2:45:28 PM

In Living Colour

Colour Confidential We chatted with three colourists to get the lowdown on their signature colour techniques By Melissa Brazier

Fiona Johnston

Technique: The team at Cutting Room Creative has together honed and mastered the art of balayage. A French word that means “to sweep,” as a highlighting technique balayage is painting colour onto the hair without the use of traditional foils. Johnston is seeing an increase in the use of this technique in the salon, sighting the tough economic times as the reason clients are requesting more natural looking colour with longer-lasting results. Breakdown: At Cutting Room Creative they usually do a solid colour underneath and a couple of foils just around the hairline. Then the colourist makes his or her first horseshoe shaped section at the lower recession and occipital bone. Taking 1 in. or 1½ in. sections from the area selected, Johnston then paints on colours starting about 1½ in. from the

salon > october 10

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scalp. This process is then repeated moving up the head two to three inches at a time until all the hair is down. She also uses Goldwell’s Kwick Way Thermal Strips, which are like a foam foil, as a surface cover to prevent melding of colours between each section, layering them gently on top of one another. Johnston advises laying the section on the foam and touching it gently at the re-growth so the hair sticks to the foam and won’t slip and slide. Johnston’s additional tips for this technique are as follows: feathering or tapering out the application to avoid solid lines, ensuring you get good saturation on the ends and using a light touch with the end of your brush held at an angle. If a client has already had a re-growth touch up, this technique is ideal for blending colour out away from the scalp.

hair: fiona johnston; makeup: natalie wong; styling: fiona johnston; photo: suzanne teresa

• colourist for 26 years • co-owner of Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Overall effect and benefits: “My favourite thing about this technique is I get to focus on what’s happening on the ends, as oppose to with foils where the focus is on the re-growth and midshaft” says Johnston. “We are also doing a lot of re-basing using balayage, putting natural colour back into the hair so the re-growth isn’t as strong between appointments. It looks like highlights that have grown out a bit, a sun highlight effect.” The benefit for the client is it’s a lot more personalized and interactive as they can see the colour (it’s not hidden under foils) and even pick out and show the strands they want to be coloured. Plus, this service gives the colourist more artistic license and it’s a lot faster, meaning more clients can be booked in one day.

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• colourist for 18 years • artistic director for Logics and educational director of Salon Tantrum in Layton, UT • winner of the NAHA 2010 Haircolor category Technique: Experimenting with his “fusion” technique since shortly after graduating beauty school, over the years Benson has mastered creating what he’s dubbed a “hyper shine line.” Breakdown: Benson builds a base in and then melds multiple colours in the same strand and this creates a hyper shine line, which is where the sun would naturally hit and create shine in the hair. You can use everything from avant garde tones like greens, purples and pinks to more commercial tones like blondes, reds and brunettes. For Benson’s NAHA look (shown above), he started by lightening the area on top of the head in a slight diamond shape (asymmetrical) so it doesn’t look like a

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rectangle. Once everything was lightened up to a pale yellow, he re-sectioned the same area of the head to move it out of the way and began applying the base colour underneath working from back to front. Following this, he began to apply the 21 foils on the top section of the head. Laying the foils open (no folding!), he painted the lightest tone first and then applied the darker base tone near the scalp. Benson says, “You want to almost take the brush where you are going to blend the two tones and side brush it to get that melding or fusion of colours.” This technique can also be done on a lesser scale using five or 10 sections, and Benson advises placing the colour near the curves of the head, as it will be more of an impact zone.

Overall effect and benefits: “This technique works with the concepts of light and shadow and positive and negative space. The whole idea of this is using two tones that will create a third tone, where the base colour meets the highlighting colour,” explains Benson. The benefit for the client is that there’s no start and stop when regrowth starts to happen. “When you use foils right at the scalp it looks unrealistic because the minute it grows out it’s a perfect line. With this technique because it is fused and all the colours blend, it naturally looks like it’s growing out and the shine line grows with it,” he says. t

collectioN: fusion art hair, naha 2010; hair: chrystofer benson; photo: joseph cartright

Chrystofer Benson

october 10 < salon

9/1/10 1:58:27 PM

In Living Colour Franz David

Breakdown: Rather than straight weaving, David highlights using diagonal slices, and if the client parts their hair to the left he will go heavier on the colour on the

right hand side, and vice versa. As a general guideline, David estimates almost double the slices on the one side, or for the same effect you can do an equal amount of slices on both sides and just have one side with thicker slices. If the client parts it down the middle, he says you can still use this technique and it will just look a little lighter on one side, which can be a playful option for more conservative clients. Overall effect and benefits: David describes the overall effect of this technique as, “They’re almost getting a

reversible jacket, a two-in-one look if you will.” The benefit of this technique for the client is definitely longevity. “It’s pretty versatile,” says David, “If one side is close to their natural colour and the other is lighter, when the re-growth starts to show they can flip or wear their hair on the opposite side, which will give them a few more weeks before they have to come into the salon.” This technique is also a way for colourists to encourage clients who don’t normally colour their hair or want low maintenance hair back to the colour bar.

Colour Me Manly Most male clients can benefit from a little colour enhancement

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Different Strokes In regards to tone, there is a big difference between men and women. “Research indicates that there is a need on the market for ash, non brassy, cool tones for men, something that looks a bit more natural,”

says Sanderson. “The trend now also shows a bit of grey, something that no-lift, depositonly colours such as FixMen achieve very well. They look natural and male clients really love the results.” Beaupré cautions that clients who want to cover grey with a demi-permanent formula must be careful to not use a shade that’s too dark or it will end up looking unnatural. “The last thing you want is that jet black washedup Elvis look,” she says.

Quick Fix Goldwell introduces Men ReShade Hybrid Foam Technology that combines the easy application of a foam with the natural results of an oxidative colour technology. A colour service that’s as quick and discreet as a shampoo, the results are transparent and grey-blending, with no visible regrowth, nor reddish or warm tones. Info: goldwell-northamerica.com

hen it comes to men’s hair colour, salons most commonly receive concerns about grey coverage. However, men aren’t looking for the same results as women—they want grey coverage to be discreet with little commitment as some men won’t want to visit the salon every three to four weeks for touch-ups. If the male client isn’t familiar with the concept of hair colour, be very specific about the results, service duration and cost. “Talk to your client and explain that nowadays there are great formulas for men that can be applied sink-side and don’t have any offensive odour,” says Jill

Sanderson, brand manager for FixMen. “There’s no reason to perceive men’s hair colour as something taboo.” If your client hasn’t specifically asked about hair colour, how do you bring up the issue? “To get them to start thinking about colour and to find out if they’re receptive, I usually joke a little bit and tell them we can take a year off in five minutes,” says Véronique Beaupré, co-owner of local B in Montreal. “If the client is happy with the results, we just continue with this service every time he comes in for a cut.” Plus, adding a short service is also a good way to increase revenue while keeping your clients looking their best.

collection: contessa 20, men's hairstylist of the year; hair: phillip elliott, chrome hair design; photo: colin way

Technique: David takes the classic horseshoe sectioning technique—learned by all colourists in the beginning of their career—and gives it his own personal twist by strategically adding almost double the highlights on one side depending on where the client parts his or her hair. He calls it an “asymmetrical horseshoe.”

model photo: drew de haas; bio shot photo: courtesy parlour salon

• colourist for 14 years • co-owner of Parlour Salon, Toronto, ON

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9/2/10 2:52:18 PM

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In Living Colour

In The Zone How to combat porous areas of the hair when applying colour By Emily Gravelle

verly porous hair can be a colourist’s worst nightmare. Not only does it absorb colour more quickly, it also causes it to fade faster. “If the normal colour processing takes place on this type of hair, the result will be darker and more intense than the intended shade,” says Roch Lemay, education and events director for Matrix. “Also, when a fashion shade is used, porous hair can lead to a less intensive result.”

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photo courtesy desmond murray and atheron cox

Porosity 101 Porosity is the ability of a substance such as hair to absorb moisture. The cuticle layer is open, which exposes the inner cortex. This layer protects the inner structure of the hair with a series of fine, transparent scales that face outwards, according to Lemay. The degree of porosity varies in some hair types, particularly in previously dyed or long locks. “Chemical over-processing, sun exposure and health problems— to name a few—can result in hair that is over porous, dry, brittle and lacking in elasticity,” says Lemay. Healthy hair has a natural protective barrier and the level of porosity is low, meaning that colour will hold well. “For a colourist, the porosity level of the hair is very important and must be considered to endure a beautiful, long-lasting colour,” says Colin Ford, L’Oréal Professionnel’s director of education and events. “Often, a pre-colouring treatment needs to be done in order to ensure that the shade will be even.”

salon52.ca

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Ford says to consider the level of porosity for the lengths and ends, particularly with long hair, so the colour formula can be adjusted to compensate for the lack of pigmentation that is likely to have taken place. Use a different formula on these zones where the hair is more porous and has lost its tone, especially when using a cool colour. “This will prevent the hair from becoming matte on the ends, says Ford. Rasa Jurenas, owner of Studio Rasa in Tillsonburg, ON and part of Schwarzkopf's artistic team, likes to mix two different colours for the regrowth and the ends. “If you take the time to mix the two formulas you are going to have a much better end result,” she says. Jurenas also likes to use BC Moisture Kick Spray Conditioner on porous hair before doing a colour. “I like this product because it creates a buffer before the application. Clients can also take it home with them to keep their hair in optimal condition.” Lemay recommends balancing the hair with a cationic porosity equalizer. “Doing this will offset the porosity. Also remember to treat the mid-length and ends of the hair with gentle colouring products to achieve target results,” he says. Using a low-oxidative colour with a low volume hydrogen peroxide will minimize the stress to the hair structure. “Matrix’s Color Sync is one product that contains a high concentration of cera-oil complex (ceramide) that re-strengthens and evens out the porosity of the hair,” says Lemay.

Root to End When Susan Hayward of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto wants to look at a client’s natural hair level, she always looks to the roots first. “Generally, when you are dealing with a regrowth area, it tends to be not as porous as the mid-section or the ends,” she says. “Your easiest analysis of the hair is going to be in that section. The rest of it will appear duller or rougher if it is very porous. If you are questioning the hair’s porosity, you can add water to and it see how much it soaks up.” Jurenas points out that it is not just blondes who suffer from overly porous hair. “Even if a client has dark hair and colour keeps being applied on the regrowth all the way through to the ends, that hair is going to start looking damaged and the tips will begin to appear black,” she says. “As a colourist, be sure to pay extra attention to that and ensure your client leaves with a head full of healthy hair.”

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The Porosity Test Matrix’s Roch Lemay suggests colourists perform a porosity test before applying any colour. Here’s how. 1. Select a small section of hair. (Approximately 1 in.) 2. With your thumb and first finger, slide down the hair shaft. 3. Assess how rough or smooth the hair is using the following guidelines to determine a course of action.

Smooth and Shiny (Resistant Hair) • Cuticle is dense and hard • May lack moisture • Resilient to treatment and chemical services

Slightly Rough (Healthy Hair) • Normal hair

Rough (Overly Porous) • Hair has been exposed to chemical services • Overuse of mechanical services • Sun-bathing Solution: Cationic positive charge (porosity equalizer)

Very Rough, Brittle and Dry (Damaged Hair) • Chemically over-processed hair Solution: Trim off the damaged parts

photo: collection Purely Abba, 2010, Photography: David Raccuglia, Hair: Matthew Williams, Makeup: Samantha Trinh, Styling: Eric Nicholson

Perfect Mix

october 10 < salon

9/2/10 2:52:50 PM

In Living Colour Red Hot

Continuing to expand its palette, L’Oréal Professionnel introduces five intense red and copper shades to its ammonia-free Inoa line. Featuring Rubilane and DM5 technologies, these shades cover even completely white hair (without the need for mixing) and will still give a vibrant red result. The formula also offers a chromatic, oxidative base, uniform colour from re-growth to ends and red reflects for extra shine. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

Colour News Trend Driven

Text By Melissa Brazier, model photo courtesy L’Oréal Professionnel

Joico introduces three shades—red, orange and yellow— to its semi-permanent Color Intensity line. The concentrated pigments will allow you to get vibrant results and the patented Quadramine Complex will protect hair while colouring. Plus, the Clear Mixer allows you to control intensity.

Ultra Blonde

Following the launch of Schwarzkopf Professional’s innovative Color10, the line is now expanding this Nov. with the launch of Igora Color10 Speedlift+. Give blonde clients a faster option with this new formula, which is designed to lift up to four levels for blonde accents or all over highlights that processes in just 10 minutes. This new launch also offers excellent neutralization, six blonde shades ranging from cool to warm and a High Speed Booster that uses Amino Acids to accelerate the lightening process without putting the hair under stress. Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca

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Also on the colour forefront, Joico is launching the Vero K-Pak Xtra Reds. A fusion of the XtraBond Dye Technology and the QuadraBond Peptide Complex stabilizes and bonds dye molecules in hair for an intense red effect with added longevity (up to 20 per cent longer!). Info: joico.com

salon52.ca

9/1/10 1:54:02 PM

Colour Care The editors here at Salon Magazine bring you their picks for at-home colour maintenance

Sans Foil An

alternative to using foils when highlighting, Biolights Color are 100 per cent biodegradable, eco-friendly cotton pads. Cyndi Isaac, salon director for EvelineCharles who was recently certified in this new technique, says, “The Biolights prevent bleeding and give you more control as it’s not as flimsy and doesn’t slip around. It’s a great technique for a guest that wants a natural result and it works well in conjunction with the base." Info: biolightscolor.com

Organic Option

Offer Organic Color Systems as a highperformance range of permanent hair colour, which contains certified organic extracts and natural ingredients. This system is also ammonia-free and does not take hair too far from its natural pH level, which means a healthy end result your clients will love. Info: organiccolorsystems.com

ISO Color Preserve This six-product line features ISO’s exclusive Solar Seal 3 technology, a sun activated polymer that protects colour-treated hair from damage caused by UV exposure. Info: isohair.com

Revlon Professional Interactives Color Sublime The Hydra Capture System moisturizes hair from the inside strengthening its structure and maintaining colour uniformity from scalp to ends. Formulated with rice proteins and amino acids, this colour care system gives up to 60 per cent more colour protection. Info: revlonprofessional.com

Natural Ash Affinage has extended its tones by adding

4.01 (Natural Medium Ash Brown) to its Infiniti line of permanent hair colour. Meeting the demand for a darker, natural ash for both men and women, the unique D.A.T.E.M. technology accelerates the coloring process by transporting oxygen deep into the cortex of the hair, resulting in faster penetration, remarkable grey coverage and more effective colour deposit. Info: affinage.com

Hempz Couture

A newer addition to the colour care market, Hempz Couture is a four-product line that includes a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in detangler and shine spray. The main ingredient, pure organic hemp seed oil, is rich in essential fatty acids, nutrients and vitamins to promote keratin formation and improve the overall condition of hair. Info: hempzproducts.com

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october 10 < salon

9/1/10 1:54:30 PM

In Living Colour

Get Toned Providing the perfect colour consultation

By Emily Gravelle

hen David Adams, freelance Aveda stylist and president and co-founder of Redchocolate in Minneapolis, meets a new client for a colour consult, selecting the right shade is only one small part of the process. Redchocolate, an intensive education program that helps salons create a technical hair curriculum, recommends the colour consultation consist of a series of simple steps.

Detective Work

Food for Thought Next, in order to pinpoint the right shade, Adams finds out what type of colour his client doesn’t want. “We tend to use generic words like auburn, chestnut or brunette, but when I talk to a group of stylists they can’t even agree between them what brunette actually is,” he says. To clarify what different hues look like, Adams has a portfolio containing different images of food. “My thing about colour is food. If someone says to me that they want to be blonde, then I show them the pictures and ask if they want to be corn blonde, lemon blonde, butter blonde or pinot grigio blonde,” he says. “We also use swatches of hair that we have coloured ourselves, so we know those results will be achieveable.”

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photo courtesy desmond murray and atheron cox

After the initial greeting with a client, Adams will sit face to face with them during the consultation. “Traditionally, colourists stand behind the guest who is seated at the chair. I prefer something that is more informal and relaxing. The best way to do the consultation is sitting across from them at eye level,” says Adams. During this conversation, it’s important for the colourist to find out more about the client’s lifestyle. Finding out what they do for a living, how much time they have to spend on their hair regime each day, etc., will determine what kind of colour can be properly maintained. Jessica Clark, 2010 Contessa Makeover Colourist finalist from Suki’s in Vancouver, agrees. “If the client is an avid swimmer for example, a global pre-lightening service is not going to be suitable,” says the Goldwell colourist.

salon52.ca

9/1/10 2:03:11 PM

THE CONSULTATION WHEEL

The Consultation Wheel GREETING

Placing those colour swatches on the client’s forehead is a great way to show them exactly how it will look against their skin tone and eye colour. Barb Mazzaferro, Wella colourist from Salon Dew in Toronto, says she looks for a few different aspects in order to determine what tone will best suit her client. “The natural hair colour will tell me a lot, as well as skin tone, eye colour. For fair complexions, tones should be cooler and softer, for medium complexions it should be warmer and with dark complexions, tones should be deep and intense,” she says.

GOODBYE

12 PRE-BOOK

HOME CARE

LIFESTYLE

2 ASSESS THE HAIR

10 4

STRAND TEST

About Face

Condition Diagnosis When clients are looking to drastically lighten or darken their locks, Mazzaferro recommends looking at the strength of the hair first to see if it can handle high-lift colour or multiple processes. “People with shorter hair may not be as concerned about damage, where people with long hair will be,” she says. “The High Lift Blonde series by Wella Koleston Perfect will achieve a fair amount of lift while still depositing tonality. Wella Blondor also offers an on-the-scalp bleach that keeps the integrity of the hair and allows significant lift and control.” Adams likes to say that beautiful colour begins with healthy hair. That means educating guests about how to keep their tresses in fantastic condition is a crucial part of the service. “The colour will last longer, look better and for us as the colourist, it will make the process very easy,” says Adams. “Hair is like fabric. When you spend money on designer labels like Prada or Gucci, you are not going to just throw it in the washing machine. You look after it properly, and the same should be true for hair.” If someone with jet black hair wants to go bright blonde, Adams tends to do this process in three stages. He will first take them to a lighter brown, then to a darker blonde during the second service and finally to the light blonde during the third visit. In between visits, Adams advises that client on what kind of home-care regimen they should follow and the upkeep that is expected to maintain the colour.

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MONEY TALK

8 OPTIONS & UPKEEP

PATCH TEST

6 COLOR TALK

STYLE TALK

Achieving a pure pigment shade can be tricky, so Clark says pre-lightening is essential in this case. “These products work differently than oxidative time. They are usually polymer or vegetable-based, so they require a remover,” she says.

Making Cents Having surveyed a number of clients, Adams has concluded that one of the main reasons people choose to leave their hairstylist and go somewhere new is because the service got boring. “Guests tell us time and time again that they reason they left their previous salon was because they were never offered anything different,” he says. Adams likes to give his client different options. This includes a description of possible colour services such as deposit-only colour treatment, semi-permanent colour or highlights. He will also explain how long each service will take to complete and the price. “Hairstylists don’t like to talk to their clients about money, but it is very important. When a menu says highlights are from '$80' and a client who has longer, thicker hair is charged $120, they are likely going to be surprised when they get to the front desk. No one took the time to have that conversation with them first.” Clark says that affordability is more important than ever in today’s economy. “The client needs to really understand the “true” cost and maintenance of their chemical service. This includes at home care—shampoo, daily conditioners, masque, etc.,—as well as follow-up appointments, haircuts and blow dry,” she says. After all, happy clients keep coming back. “The joy of great hair colour is when someone looks at my client and says, 'Wow!' They say they look great and ask of they have been on holiday,” says Adams. “Then my client smiles and simply says, ‘No. I’ve just had my hair coloured.’“ t

As well, connecting hair colour and makeup is a crucial part of selecting the right hue. “When I change someone’s hair colour who has been blonde for example, they are already dressing for blonde and wearing makeup for blonde,” says Adams. “Suddenly, they want to go dark red for winter. Often, that guest will come back two weeks later and say they don’t like their colour.” Earlier on in Adams’ career, this scenario would baffle him. He’d wonder what he was doing wrong, when he realized the problem was that the client needed to be coached on makeup and clothing to suit their new hue. “It’s our job as colourists to really advise that guest. This is a whole lifestyle change,” he says. “It’s not just about the hair colour, but everything around it as well.”

october 10 < salon

9/1/10 2:03:20 PM

In Living Colour

Celebrity Colour: Hit or Miss? You told us your thoughts on Facebook and Twitter about these three Hollywood starlets' new hues

Amy Hair Freudenberg: “I would lighten hair to a level five leaving exposed red underlying pigment! I would tone with a violet pigment colour and a 5A to have it hold with 10 Volume. I personally love this look, but this is not just an everyday wear for clients as nowadays they want more natural looks.” @charisejuanita: “I would colour cleanse the top to a pale yellow, then use a metallic-based pink on top.”

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Lindsay Lohan

Claire Ashley S. Merkle: “This washes her complexion out completely. She needs to go back to her red shades, they were lovely with her skin tone. The extensions also need to go, too stringy and limp looking.”

Kathryn Lenarduzzi, Blonde Salon, Toronto: “I miss the young innocent red-headed Lindsay. The blonde has to go. Her hair is the same colour as her skin, never a good thing.”

Ashley Simpson

Kurt Down: “She needs to find a new stylist. The one side is really frizzy and she just looks like she used a box dye over black and it faded horribly.” @getmegorgeous: “Not diggin’ it. The tones are cool and the light then begins to look grey. Grey, gold and purple. Only Missoni could do this effectively.” S

By Melissa Brazier. photos: keystone press agency

Rihanna

salon52.ca

9/2/10 2:53:56 PM

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profile

The Many Shades of Minardi

renowned colourist, long-time educator and salon owner, Beth Minardi was inspired to work with hair from a passion for painting. After finishing a college degree in education, Minardi pursued beauty school after playing a bit part in a movie and developing a fascination for the on-set beauty trailer. Once she established herself as a colourist and educational professional, Minardi and her husband decided to open up a New York City salon to keep their practice hands-on. She has branded herself through Minardi Beauty Products and lines of salon supplies and was the second ever female recipient of a Lifetime Achievement Award at the North American Hairstyling Awards 2010. Q. What inspired your love of colour? A. I love painting. My aunt was an artist and I’d go to her house and paint as a teenager. I loved colour more than composition and it was about knowing the basics before you could truly paint.

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Q. How did you translate this passion for painting into a career in hair? A. It was an accident. In beauty school I realized they were teaching styling and cutting, and when we were on the floor practicing, I saw when people came in for a colour retouch even the teachers were terrified. They would constantly look at the charts and be very nervous and very tentative. No one was interested in colour. When I finished school, I met a woman at Clairol who said I would be a good fit since I had a college degree and beauty degree, so I got hired in 1978. Q. What was your time at Clairol like? A. In those days, when you started you went to school for four big weeks of intensive training—if you didn’t pass each week, you were fired. My job was to go into salons, tell stylists about products and teach them the basics. I saw people really doing their work and other brands in action, providing beautiful results and

in shades Clairol didn’t have either. During those 11 years, I helped make a cream colour product called Logics, which was eventually sold to Matrix. I wrote the education, did the videos and books and hired and trained educators. Q. While you were at Clairol you also opened your own salon. Why, when your career was going so well? A. When I was working on Logics I met the man I would eventually marry. His dream was to open a salon in New York City. So we got married and opened a salon, which has now been running for 25 years. It worked because I was able to stay on as a consultant for Clairol. Q. You’ve also worked for other manufacturers; Redken and Joico. What have you enjoyed about your time with these companies? A. I started with Redken in the early 90s when they were mostly known for

photo s: THis page, courtesy NAHA, Opposite page, courtesy Beth Minardi

Up close and personal with one of the bestknown colourists in North America By Anupa Mistry

salon52.ca

9/2/10 2:54:33 PM

Clockwise from top left: Minardi at the NAHAs; warming up the crowd on stage; demonstrating her teaching ability during a seminar; a modelling photo from Minardi's 20s; with one of her favourite animals; as a child with her mother.

permanent waves and haircare. They wanted to be a colour company so they hired me to work on and develop Color Fusion—after that, we taught 10 to 12 classes per year. In the past year that I’ve been with Joico, I’ve been working all over the country, educating stylists on the ground. Q. It seems you really love educating people about colour. Why is that? A. I received my degree in education and I love to teach. When you can see the light bulb come on and someone finally understands something that’s really been troubling them, it’s very satisfying to know you’ve been able to change somebody’s work life. Q. What has been the biggest change in the hair industry over the years? A. When I started, hair colour was the thing you did in the backroom and nobody talked about it. Now everyone talks. People wanted to look like models—now they want to look like celebrities. Beauty used to be sold based on its universal appeal, and today, if a celebrity has pink hair they will consider it—there’s

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a desperate desire to look exactly like that person. It’s a challenge for colourists. Q. Why is it important for you to continue to work behind the chair? A. Every time you touch a client, you learn. It’s like painting a canvas that has an opinion. It’s also about making a person, who is terrified or has had bad experiences elsewhere, feel calm and comfortable and know she will get a great experience. Corrections are wonderful to do; after you get good, however, you find them a joy not a challenge. Q. What do you think has been the best recent colour innovation? A. The advent of demipermanent, no-lift hair colour. It’s the thing that has set the colouring world far ahead more than anything else. You can match or darken hair, cover grey and dimensionalize blonde and brunette hair. It keeps your hair feeling really great and is ammonia and MEA-free. Q. What is your favourite memory of your career? A. This year at the NAHAs when I stood in front of 3,100 people who stood

up for me, and who I got to tell how much I love this industry. Also, the first time I stood in a factory and saw two years of my work and collaboration (Logics) come down the line was absolutely amazing. Q. What are your key messages for young colourists today? A. Expect nothing at the beginning when you get out of school. Think of your license as your pass to keep learning. Attend different manufacturer classes to get a different point of view, keep your head down and work. Don’t expect accolades for a few years and find a salon where you can specialize. This is a wonderful career, but it’s hard work. Q. What do you love about colour? A. I think I’m more sensitive to colour than most people are. As a kid, I had my tonsils out and I remember it was spring and I wasn’t allowed out to play for a while. When I finally went out I remember realizing just how green the grass was, how blue sky was, and the bright, yellow flowers. S

october 10 < salon

9/2/10 2:54:55 PM

Magazine 07/07

0” H

12/4/09

11:39 AM

Page 1

Also available in Cream Formula

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Saying Goodbye to a Canadian Colour Pioneer Lili Jakel remembered for her expertise

0” H

Magazine 07/07

12/4/09

11:39 AM

Page 1

ili Jakel, internationally known head colourist at Michael Kluthe Salon in Toronto, passed away on July 19 at 75 years of age after a private

fight with liver disease. She is survived by her husband, son and grandchildren. Jakel,

born

Germany,

established

the

first

departmentalized colour station in Canada at Michael Kluthe Salon, which she joined in 1970. “I met her in the 60s when I was the president of the Guild of Hair Design,” says long-time EACH

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friend Kluthe. “She wanted to join as a colourist and I told her no, because we didn’t have that designation at the time.” Her tenacity, laughs Kluthe, is what got her in in the end and what also helped her build her career and a name for colour. “She was just an incredible colourist,” says Kluthe. “Before she joined my salon, I used to send my blondes to her.” After coming on board at Kluthe and heading up the colour Photo courtesy Michael Kluthe Salon

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department, Jakel worked til recently with a staff of up to 12. She had a very loyal clientele, but also worked on editorial makeovers for top publications in the 80s and 90s. A long-time member of Intercoiffure, Jakel served on a number of boards with the international industry body and also won many colour awards such as the Order de la Chevaliere and Cheena O’Seara Award, as well as Haircolor USA Colorist

11 Stores to Serve You Order Desk 1-800-642-3818 56

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of the World (1989), World Creative Artist (1993, 1994, 1997), and the Contessa Lifetime Achievement Award (1997).

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ter Roug ive

COLLECTION

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Ingrid

www.chinaglaze.com Model is wearing “Riveter Rouge”

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8/4/10 3:10:11 PM

Collection: Primary Hair: Saco creative team Makeup: Andrew Gallimore Styling: Saga Widen Photos: David Oldham

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9/1/10 2:16:48 PM

Primary Colours Sacoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest creation is inspired by the anti-pop culture of European post-punk artists

nspired by the New Wave movement of the late 70s and early 80s, the team from Saco takes a no-frills approach with this collection titled Primary. Expressing an anti-pop culture attitude, pale blondes, deep browns and pure pigment reds are partnered with rather sombre makeup and wardrobe. Short, rounded styles with whispy contours portray this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trend towards bold yet subtle looks. S

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october 10 < salon

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Collection: Illumination Hair: Oscar Cullinan, Oscar Oscar Salon Makeup: Noni Smith Styling: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Everything is Illuminated Oscar Cullinan polishes up Australia’s trademarked healthy hair

salon > october 10

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Te x t e d e Ya s m i n G r o t h é

salon52.ca

9/1/10 2:05:11 PM

wner of glam Aussie hairstyling locales Oscar Oscar Salon, Oscar Cullinan is a Hair Expo’s finalists for Australian Hairdresser of the Year. Illumination is Cullinan’s take on hair fashion from the 60s through to the 90s—all done in that trademarked big, bold and majorly wearable Australian style. Shiny, slightly undone hair seems to be the country’s primary influence on international hair trends and Cullinan buffs this look up by adding defined texture and intriguing colour. S

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october 10 < salon

9/1/10 2:05:28 PM

High Class

Feminine charm meets upscale style

eigning Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairstylist of the Year Rudy Pignataro, might have won for his expertise with guyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style, but he proves his versatility with this female-centric collection. The series features a variety of textured looks and soft waves. Pignataro takes these looks to new heights, lifting and pinning it into a sculpted bouffant. S

Hair: Rudy Pignataro, Makeup: Emilia Zacker, Styling: Tasha Farrington ,Accessories: Samantha Nemiroff Jewellery, Photos: Rob Seguin

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Collection: FW10 Blast Collection Hair: Sassoon international creative team and Mark Hayes, international creative director Makeup: Petros Petrohilos Styling: Jonathan Kay Photos: Lachlan Bailey

Perfect Mixture

Sassoon’s latest collection is a nod to the concept of shape and balance

sing a signature Sassoon technique in this collection called Blast, Mark Hayes, international creative director, says, “Shape and balance is a magnetic fusion of industry-leading colour with meticulous craftsmanship cutting that will deliver a perfection you’ve never dreamed possible.” This technique is all about well-planned cuts that complement the bone structure and strategic placement of translucent colours that suit the skin tone. Inspired by the fall runway trends of Missoni, Christopher Kane and Roksanda Ilincic, this collection captures the fluid nature of fashion through the hair’s texture and colour. S

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salon52.ca

9/1/10 2:18:57 PM

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8/27/10 3:17 PM 9/1/10 2:45:09 PM

Angus Mitchell explores hair cause and effect in his latest collection Alchemy

Chemical Reaction C

arrying on his father’s reputation for hair expertise, Angus Mitchell is a bona fide stylist and proves it with his latest trend collection, Alchemy. Despite its edgy trappings—geometry rules when it comes to cutting—everything about Alchemy is elegant. Blunt bangs on a cheekbone-length cut have the slightest of softened edges, and defined curls get the tousled treatment. Even choppy spikes are toned down when they’re atop a soft blonde crop. S

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Hair: Angus Mitchell Photos: Courtesy John Paul Mitchell Systems S

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Hair: Robert Bava Colour: Ashleigh Mann Makeup: Kylie O'Toole Styling: Karen Bava Photos: Andrew O'Toole

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Virtual Reality

obert Bava, 2010 Australian Hairdresser of the Year finalist, shows off a blend of colour and creativity in this collection called Cyber Tribe. The sleek cuts feature strong lines and bold hues of colour that offset the bright clothing. Dishevled texture and long flowing curls create an unstructured style in this furturistic punk look. S

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october 10 < salon

9/2/10 3:38:01 PM

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

By John Donato as told to Melissa Brazier

A Contessa Tale

Donato Salon + Spa chats about its C21 Canadian Salon Team of the Year collection

Hair: John Donato, Loucas Reklitis, Jessica Fluke, Luigi Aquino, Kyle Szucs Colour: Gianpeter Filice, Rebecca Eisenbaum, Paula Singh Makeup: Moe Genobaga & Anna Barseghian Styling: Amy Lu Photos: Josh Cornell

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he name of our collection is Short Summer Tale as it was targeted towards the summer trend of shorter, sexier, more feminine and sharp cuts with an asymmetrical element. This was perfect for the warmer season because it allows for versatility and freeflowing hair. It was very important to us that we incorporated a colour scheme of blonde, brunette and red as these colours best complemented the short hair shapes we chose. Shot over a period of two days, we had an amazing team that worked so well with each other and we collaborated all of our ideas, which gave us a great and diverse end result. S

salon52.ca

9/1/10 12:32:03 PM

From one stylist to another

Before

istening to your client may be the most important part of your job as a stylist. We need to understand not only what our clients want, but what they don’t want. When I hear them say that they don’t want frizz, I hand them a brochure on Global Keratin. Clients don’t want stick-straight hair. They want body and movement, but they want their hair to be manageable and controllable in humidity. Our clients are asking for these types of treatments, and it’s our job to tell them about the benefits of the Global Keratin Hair Taming System. Global Keratin is different from other products because it contains the active ingredient Juvexin—the only protein scientifically proven to protect and restore hair back to its youthful state. The after-care products from Global Keratin Hair Taming System also contain Juvexin, so as you wash your hair you are actually redepositing that

protein back into your hair for long-term protection. The treatment lasts about three to five months and my clients book their next appointments before they walk out of the salon. I’m booked a year in advance for the Global Keratin service! My advice to any other stylist looking to offer Global Keratin in their salon is to make sure you do a great consultation. You’ll find that many of your clients have a need and desire for the Global Keratin service and that price is not an objection. I have had clients say that they finally have the hair they should have been born with. I’ve had a client with extremely unruly hair that was so overwhelmed by the results that it brought her to tears If you ask me, it makes people’s dreams come true.

—Leslie Correa, Salon Owner & Global Keratin Specialist

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NAILS

Mix it Up

Get bold with your mani-pedis by offering custom colour options By Anupa Mistry

t was only by accident that Leanne Colley and her colleagues at Tips Nail Bar in Toronto came up with their own personal “greige” nail colour—a very light grey that they’d spotted on the runway and in magazines. “Greige was so hot and it wasn’t available in OPI’s Axxium gels so we just decided to play around and mix, and it ended up a big hit,” explains the nail bar owner who has since come up with eight more customized shades. In reality, colour mixing at the manufacturer level is an intense process that sometimes happens a year and a half before the lacquer is released. “We work closely with a trend company to come up with seasonal colours,” explains Elyce DeBrown, director of marketing with CND. “This gives us an idea of what the fabrics, colours and finishes are going to be.” After DeBrown and CND founder Jan Arnold distill the possibilities into a workable collection, swatches and examples are sent to the enamel manufacturer to replicate into a lacquer. Here, it’s not just about getting the colour right (that can take a few back and forths, explains DeBrown) but checking the viscosity, effect and pigment load for the best application possible. The products are then tested in CND’s lab salon and amongst nail techs in the field.

CND’s revamp of their arsenal as Colour & Effects is an easily applicable extension of nail colour mixology to the nail tech, explains DeBrown. “If you don’t want to do it, you can brush on a layer of colour and add an effect and you have something amazing and different and new. It’s the same concept, with less work.” The nail techs at Tips enjoy mixing up their own colours for clients to enhance the service experience. “We continuously mix them and save them for use on other clients, and the client who we make it for, we name the colour after them,” explains Colley. “We know what our clients like and sometimes what’s available isn’t what our clients like.” Elaine Watson, global education director and vice president of marketing and sales for Star Nail International, has also worked to develop the brands' soak-off and non-soak-off gels and says she also encourages customization. “Our gels are formulated with pigments specific to gels and blended with a safe amount so you do not block the UV curing rays,” she explains. “Ours is much easier to customize than mixing clear gel with nail lacquer colours. That could prevent a proper cure and cause future allergies.”

New in Nails

Fall’s best in nail colour is a mix of moody romantic shades and fun textures Glitz up your party girls with Deborah Lippmann’s disco ball Today Was A Fairytale and gilded Boom Boom Pow (which contains 24 carat gold!).

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LCN’s seasonal offerings include the stormy Fascinating Grey and deep velvety Walk Of Fame.

Suit up with OPI’s elegant Designer Series for fall; DS radiance is a luxuriously silver and DS magic a bejewled blue. S

salon52.ca

9/1/10 3:15:01 PM

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9/1/10 2:42:48 PM

esthetics

By Anupa Mistry

Self Service

Spray-on tanning is increasing in popularity, helping clients stay bronze even in dark winter

Thin Skin

Protect clients’ skin from harsh winter weather

e’re all familiar with the tight feeling our skin takes on when the Canadian winter hits—whether it’s on our hands or our face. “In the winter, skin becomes dry, sensitized and the lipid barrier is disrupted,” explains Dermalogica’s director for global education, Annet King. “Clients may not see that the skin is sensitive so you must ask them how their skin feels, or if they experience irritation or ‘biting’ when a product is applied.” Dermalogica’s expanded UltraCalming line of products includes the UltraCalming Cleanser, Mist, Reflief Masque and Serum Concetrate. “It is ideal because it’s for all skin types,” explains King. “It soothes and calms, replaces lost barrier

salon > october 10

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lipids, heals the skin, reduces redness, inflammation and stress associated with irritation too. There’s something for everyone.” Along with the in-spa, hourlong UltraCalming Treatment, which includes a specialized skin relief massage, King suggests a thorough consultation including face mapping, changing up the treatment and regimen accordingly—reducing exfoliation as necessary, adding heavier, more emollient moisturizers, and switching to gentler gel/cream cleansers. “You should also advise clients struggling with sensitized winter skin to avoid unnecessarily hot baths. This can be treated with a spritz of UltraCalming mist throughout the day.”

photo: thinkstock

xpanding your salon or spa menu to include non-UV tanning can help grow your business to include a different segment of customers. “We’ve taken a lot of steps to provide non-UV tanners with an option and we’re definitely seeing businesses gain new clientele by offering a sunless option,” explains Elain Bridgett, sales and customer service manager for Uvalux who has worked for the company for 10 years. “Spray tanning units have changed a lot,” she says. “They’re smaller and fit in a standard room nicely, wash themselves down—though you still have to sanitize—and shoot out less of a spray and more of a mist, meaning customers don’t have to wipe themselves down and end up with a streaky finish.” Uvalux offers a variety of sunless tanning units, both in-salon and mobile options. The Versa Spa is an open concept machine, reducing the potential for client claustrophobia, which allows the operator to provide multisessions; for example, starting with a primerprep, spraying with a clear or tinted bronzer, and then sealing the colour in with an antiaging treatment. Another option is the Mystic HD unit, which Bridgett says is great for inventory control due to its cartridge system, and has the option for add-ons such as an aromatherapy or triple-bronzing boost. Both units have voice automation, auto-wash down after use and heater-dryers, as well as their own take-home product lines. This doesn’t mean that tanning beds will cease to exist however. “UV tanners are still UV tanners,” says Bridgett. “They continue to bring in a bigger demographic of people, but it’s nice to have the option.” S

salon52.ca

9/1/10 3:21:23 PM

L.E.D. Curing Lamp L.E.D. Lamp cures in 30 seconds – 4 times faster than a traditional 36 Watt UV lamp! And no replacing L.E.D. bulbs. Ever. For Orders, Please Contact: Ontario: Douglas Distribution 1.800.661.6245 marleneboulter@douglasdistribution.com Alberta: DVN Spa Systems 1.800.420.4676 info@dvnspasystems.com

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BC: Portz International Cosmetics 1.800.551.2552 www.portz-beauty.com

FEATURES AND BENEFITS Add on Service • Long Lasting • Natural Nail Protection 48 exciting colors • More Value • Satisfied Customers

9/1/10 2:46:24 PM

interiors

By Yasmin Grothé

New Beginnings

Alvaro, Quebec hairstylist to the stars, finds a new creative home after 25 years

salon > october 10

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photos : Sophie B.J.

lvaro’s new digs on Laurier St. in Montreal—where an artisan perfumer previously held shop—is entirely custom-designed, despite the fact that the building is over 100-years-old. “Everything was gutted out of the main floor and we started fresh with an empty shell,” explains Julie Charbonneau, the interior designer who handled the project and is known for her refined style. Expenses were kept under control by reusing the chairs from Alvaro’s former location on Bernard St. in Outremont. The airy, all-white 1,500sq.-ft. salon has seven cutting stations and three sinks. The walls, covered with mirrors, make the salon appear even more spacious with light pouring in from the front window and a large patio door at the back. “Alvaro wanted clients to have the impression he was hosting them at home, hence the idea of a patio where they can relax between services,” says Charbonneau. The retail shelves, where products from L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil and Nioxin are stocked, is located beside the makeup counter at the front of the salon, strategically placed a few feet from the door for easy retailing. Alvaro—known for his impeccable taste and Quebec celebrity hair services— says, “The move was great. I gained a new business partner and all this new energy has been just fantastic.” S

salon52.ca

9/1/10 2:27:46 PM

About us

Info:

125 Laurier Avenue West, Montreal, QC, 514-274-3304

Owners:

Alvaro and Kevin Kennedy

Opened:

Fall 2009

Breakdown:

1,500-sq.-ft., 12 staff, seven cutting and three colour stations, one makeup counter

Design:

Julie Charbonneau (depoitiers.com)

Retail products:

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Nioxin, Pureology

salon52.ca

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october 10 < salon

9/2/10 2:36:07 PM

Queens

GOLD S P O N S O R S

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9/1/10 2:42:17 PM

Contessa 22 THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS NOVEMBER 14TH, 2010

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9/1/10 3:12:44 PM

Contessa 22 The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards

SEMI-FINALIST LIST

Canadian Hairstylist

Martin Alarie, Salon Pure, Montreal Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Simon Chercuitte, Saco, Montreal John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Jagoda Hall, Entrenous, London, ON Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artist Coiffeur, Mont-St-Hilaire, QC Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Mickey Svircevic, Mane Society, Thornhill, ON Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Pure, Montreal Dennis Voltan, Salon Inpure, Montreal

Canadian Salon Team Blushes, Ottawa Donato New Talent Salon & Spa, Toronto Entrenous, London, ON Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto local B, Montreal Maria Bikas Salon, London, ON Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Mosaic Salon, Toronto Profilo Salon & Spa, Hamilton, ON Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Saco, Montreal Salon Escape, Toronto Salon Inpure, Montreal Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Suki’s, Vancouver The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL

Elite Master Hairstylist Adriana Balea, Francesca Salon & Spa, Toronto Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Daniel Benoit, Salon Pure, Montreal John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Youssef Gereige, Youssef Hair Boutique, Windsor, ON

salon > october 10

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Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon, North Vancouver, BC Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artist Coiffeur, Mont-St-Hilaire, QC Valerie Meades, Salon M Toi, Pointe Claire, QC Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Brian Phillips, World Salon, Toronto Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton

Master Colourist Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Jessica Clark, Suki’s, Vancouver Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Katie Isaak, The Cutting Edge, Milton, ON Rasa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Alicia Langille, Concepts School of Cosmetology, Halifax Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Industry Hairdressing, Toronto

Makeover Colourist Robin Achterberg, Carreiro The Studio, Victoria, BC Martin Alarie, Salon Pure, Montreal Clancy Andrews, Robin Barker Hair’Sociates, Toronto Tanya Berger, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Laura Brookes, Mosaic Hair Group, Toronto Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, ON Jagoda Hall, Entrenous, London, ON Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Zazoon Huynh, Käaz, Montreal Rasa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory, St. John’s, NL Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Natalia Petcu, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Stacey Riddy, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, NL Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, ON

Session Hairstylist Tony Carna, Profilo Salon and Spa, Hamilton, ON Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Diana Dagher, Brennen DeMelo Studio, Toronto

Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Anna Giannini, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Tony Masciangelo, The Alcorn Salon, Toronto Natalia Petcu, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON

Texture Hairstylist Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Matty Conrad, Lab Salon, Victoria, BC Christina Dellicarpini, Locale J. Salon, Thornhill, ON Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, ON Jagoda Hall, Entrenous, London, ON Peter Salituro, Mosaic Hair Group, Toronto Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape, Toronto Abby Zaitzow, Salon Escape, Toronto

Men’s Hairstylist Roberto Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto Marie Chiarot, Salon Rococo, Toronto Sandy Hogue, Ydem, Montreal Dominick Jonathan Lefebvre, local B, Montreal Marie-Claude Montplaisir, Kharacter Style et Couleur, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Mark Santarosa, Ego Salon, Toronto Lukas Suter, World Salon, Toronto Graden van Erkelens, On the Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Shaunn Watt, Kokopelli Hair Salon and Body Lounge, Vancouver

Avant Garde Hairstylist Martin Alarie, Salon Pure, Montreal Palma Anshilevich, The Hair Spot, Toronto Rino Balzano, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Sylvain Bellerose, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Tony Carna, Profilo Salon and Spa, Hamilton, ON Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Lindsey Taylor, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, BC Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa James Valiant, Suki’s, Richmond, BC

Makeup Artist Sarah Casault, Cazoo Artistry, Vancouver Alessandra Cerro, Salon Obscure, Innisfil, ON Christine Cho, freelance, Toronto Julie Coulombe, freelance, Toronto

salon52.ca

9/3/10 12:15:55 PM

BEAUTIFUL COLOR

SHOULDN’T BE HAZARDOUS

TO YOUR HEALTH

A gorgeous color service should make your clients look and feel great. But ammonia hair color’s corrosive properties and hazardous fumes can damage the cuticle and irritate the eyes, lungs and scalp of your clientele. Not to mention what it can do to you after years of compounded exposure! Isn’t it time to switch to the proven ammonia free hair color - Organic Color Systems? For over 15 years 1000’s of salons in over 30 countries have experienced the fantastic beneﬁts of using the original ammonia-free, oil-delivered permanent hair color system.

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All of our Organic lines are made with the best natural and certiﬁed organic ingredients to protect and nourish your clients’ hair. They are 100% FREE of Ammonia, Parabens, Plastics, Resorcinol, Sulfates and Thioglycolates! Plus, they contain no animal products and are never tested on animals. Gone are the dangerous chemicals that can cause health issues which could be career ending! Organic Color Systems gives a safer, more pleasant salon experience that results in healthier, more lustrous hair. It all adds up to beautiful color without the nasty side effects.

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9/1/10 2:44:52 PM

Contessa 22 The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards

Amber-Rae Derton, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Maggie Ng, freelance, Toronto Wendy Rorong, freelance, Mississauga, ON Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal Mila Victoria, freelance, Toronto Melanie White, Studio-H, London, ON

Multicultural Hairstylist Yoan Aumond, Kharacter Style et Couleur, Montreal Robin Barker, Robin Barker Hair’Sociates, Toronto Lesley Branscombe, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Jaye McLeod, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Maly Pradichit, Käaz, Montreal Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Raquel Williams, Locale J. Salon, Thornhill, ON

Newcomer Hairstylist Tommy Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Laurie Coulombe, local B, Montreal Lara Leckie, Voka Salon and Spa, Waterloo, ON Veronica Lee, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Alyssa Marziliano, Head Candy, Toronto Thu Ha Phan, Salon Inpure, Montreal Jennifer Stinson, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, ON Nicole Straczek, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Alina Sulaiman, Tao Salon, Vancouver Chelsea Woods, Suki’s, Vancouver

Student/Apprentice Hairstylist Kim Coady, Brio Salon Aveda, Lethbridge, AB Justine Fernandez, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, ON Duyen Huynh, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Una Josilo, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, ON Ivy Ly, Toni & Guy, Vancouver Britni McPhee, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Ricardo Perdigão, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Katie-Rose Petley, Rain Salon and Boutique, Vancouver Carly Schneider, Caramel Salon, Vancouver Kristy Werbenuk, Vault Salon and Spa, Winnipeg

British Columbia Hairstylist Robin Achterberg, Carreiro The Studio, Victoria Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Philip Ferreira, Ginger Group, Victoria Damien Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon, North Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver

salon > october 10

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SEMI-FINALIST LIST

Amie Roy, Carreiro The Studio, Victoria Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Amber Turcotte, Tao, Vancouver

Alberta Hairstylist

Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Stephanie Callihoo, EvelineCharles Salon & Spas, Edmonton John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Jason Fournier, Metro Urban Hair Studio, Calgary Roberto Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Veronica Lee, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Jason Mellor, Curious, Calgary Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Jessica Robertson, EvelineCharles Salon & Spas, Edmonton

Saskatchewan/Manitoba Hairstylist Justin Broesky, St. Vital Unisex, Winnipeg Jillian Clapham, Vault Salon and Spa, Winnipeg Amanda Heffner, Mels Hair Shop, Lloydminster, SK Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Rob Jungman, Posh Salon Experience, Saskatoon Lizanne Laurin, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Silvy McGinity, Hair FX, Winnipeg Sola Olorunleke, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Jamie Rella, Vanity Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg

Ontario Hairstylist Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Gianpaolo Colombo, HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Victor Ruso, Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener Katie Steeves, Profilo Salon & Spa, Hamilton Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London

Quebec Hairstylist Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Laurie Coulombe, local B, Montreal Simon Chercuitte, Saco, Montreal Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artist Coiffeur, Mont-St-Hilaire Marie-Eve Medza, Medz Salon, Verdun Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Dominik Vincent, Style-Lib Coiffure, VaudreuilDorion Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Pure, Montreal Matthew Waldron, Mood by Pure, Montreal

Atlantic Hairstylist Claude Comeau, Spirit Spa, Halifax Fred Connors, FRED. Beauty, Halifax Jennifer Eveleigh, Especially For You, Paradise, NL Alicia Langille, Concepts School of Cosmetology, Halifax Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory, St. John’s, NL Chrissie Marr, Kara’s Urban Day Spa, Halifax Valerie D. Martin, Angel Hair Studio, RivièreVerte, NB Bobbie Steffe, Split Endz, Fredericton, NB Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, NL Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL

NAIL ENHANCEMENT ARTIST Alexandra Chrustel, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Jessica-Marie Ellison, Jolie Beauty Bar, Toronto Claudine Laviolette, Ongles & Compagnie, Gatineau, QC Emily Lee, Queen Bee, New Westminster, BC Ashley Ann MacKenzie, Jolie Beauty Bar, Toronto Michelle Sproat, Inspirations, Kingsville, ON Amanda Steele, Jolie Beauty Bar, Toronto Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, AB Tammy Upthegrove, It’s All About Me, London, ON Melissa Zaran, Rumors Hair Studio, Regina

SALON INTERIOR Byblos Salon, Ottawa Donato Salon+Spa, Toronto EvelineCharles Salons | Spas | Beauty MD, Edmonton Head Candy Salon, Toronto Joseph’s Coiffures, Ottawa Michael’s Hair Design & Day Spa, Thunder Bay, ON Narcisse Aqua Spa & Coiffure, Mont-Royal, QC Pure Elements Hair & Body, Sherwood Park, AB SFM Lifestyle Salon & Spa, Calgary The Loft, Ottawa

COMMUNITY SERVice Academy Canada Hair Salon, St.John’s, NL Eccotique, Surrey, BC Hidden Gem Spa & Salon, Brampton, ON Lab Salon, Victoria, BC Prelude Salon & Spa, Mississauga, ON Redlemon Hair Salon, Georgetown, ON Salon 247, Brampton, ON Salon You, Belleville, ON SFM Lifestyle Salon & Spa, Calgary The Artists by Johnny Cupello Salon & Spa, Newmarket, ON

Business Excellence Changes Hair Studio & Spa, Kamloops, BC Eccotique, Surrey, BC Red Lemon Hair Salon, Georgetown, ON

salon52.ca

9/3/10 12:16:06 PM

12315 Humber Cosmetic Cluster:Layout 1 08/09/09 4:10 PM Page 1

Be successful with a business diploma in

COSMETIC MANAGEMENT ESTHETICIAN/SPA MANAGEMENT or FASHION Cosmetic Management 2-Year, Accelerated Diploma (12 months) Study retailing, merchandising, marketing and sales to gain the skills you need in this expansive market. Graduate knowing current market trends in cosmetics, fragrances, beauty and skin care.

Esthetician/Spa Management 2-Year, Accelerated Diploma (12 months) Learn the procedures and business aspects of spa management - including spa treatments and therapies, skin care, nutrition, retail buying and operations, sales and presentation strategies.

Fashion 2-Year Diploma Program Be equipped in buying, production, marketing and management. Study apparel, accessories and the cosmetics industry. Students in this program have the option to move into Humberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fashion Management degree program.

business.humber.ca

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10/13/09 1:51:47 PM

BECOME A PROFESSIONAL At the forefront of fashion and beauty, John Donato is the visionary behind the Donato Academy of Hairstyling, a Private Career College recognized by the MTCU offering basic & advanced hair cutting & colour, theory & practical in a salon setting, industry-leading educators & small classes. 416.252.8999 ext. 3253 Lake Shore Blvd West, Toronto www.donatoacademy.com

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Follow your passion for beauty at Ginaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s College. Our focus on practical, hands-on experience means that our graduates are always in demand. With ďŹ&#x201A;exible course options and campuses in Waterloo, Mississauga and Ottawa, you will be on the road to a successful career in aesthetics. Waterloo campus now offering hairstyling. www.ginascollege.com

At Salon+Spa Career College we believe in professionalism, in commitment to the salon and spa industry and in life long learning. We believe that the possibilities and opportunities in the industry are endless. We strive to provide all of the tools students need to achieve their full potential and enjoy a rewarding career. 416.492.8740 www.salonspacollege.com

w8/23/10 w w . s a l11:30 o n 5 2PM .ca

9/2/10 2:35:18 PM

EDUCATION

IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS

or those considering a career in the professional beauty industry, choosing the right school is paramount to their success. But with so many different options available, how does one choose a school or program that will suit their speciﬁc needs? Some of key elements to consider are: that the program takes place in a state-of-the-art facility, the curriculum is current and relevant, the instructors are knowledgeable and experienced industry professionals, as well as using a reputable product line. Finally, check to see that the program or school offers a full range of courses. After all, there are many aspects of salon life that should be covered, such as business management, understanding retailing, solid hair cutting methods and colour principles. Remember the top salons associate themselves with the best schools and in turn get the most successful graduates.

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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MC College is Canada’s Leader in Hair and Esthetics Training. With campuses across Western Canada, MC College uses education by Pivot Point which provides the educational structure to develop true hair designers. Our vision is to elevate the industry one graduate at a time. At MC College your Potential is our Passion. www.mcollege.ca

EvelineCharles Academy Edmonton & Vancouver incorporates state-of-the-art technology and training techniques, it is ITEC Certiﬁed and the only Sassoon Academy Connection School in Canada. EvelineCharles Academy’s enhanced curriculum has a strong business focus incorporating NAIT Business Management Certiﬁcate Courses. Ask about the 3-Day Schedule and International Trip. Call 780.409.5674 www.ECacademy.com

Whether you need to brush up on fundamentals, or learn the latest looks, at Suki’s Academy, we have the advanced cutting or colour course for you. Each is designed to meet your speciﬁc needs and experience level. Our class size is kept small to ensure an unsurpassed educational experience. So, call today. 604.738.0519 www.sukis.com

George Brown College offers training in esthetics, makeup and nails. The Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics features specialized studios and instruction from active industry professionals. With day, evening and weekend classes, as well as payment on a course-by-course basis, pursue your dream career on your time and at your pace. Visit www.yorkvilleschool.com, call 416-415-5000 ext. 4070 or email info@yorkvilleschool.com. october 10 < salon

9/2/10 2:34:24 PM

Hair • FasHion • Beauty • Music

SCOOP

The

’60s

Big evenT Celebrate Robin Barker’s 50 Years In Hair

’70s Be there for the CD launch of “What Are The Children Worth?” All words, music by Robin Barker

’80s

All Star Live Band Over 40 Models

’90s Monday, Nov. 15, 2010 8pm The Revival Club 783 College St Toronto, ON

’00s

’10s

Tickets* $35 advance $45 at the door *Entry includes free CD

salon > october 10

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Stylists from across Canada are in agreement— in order to achieve the best results during a keratin treatment, the flat iron that seals product into the hair must reach a high temperature and glide smoothly through the client’s mane. Jeremy Ottenbreit from Salon Fli in Calgary uses the Rowenta Beauty Professional Flat Iron. “It goes to 450°F, which means you need to run through the hair less,” he says. “It heats up the keratin to a certain temperature so it fuses into any holes that might be in the hair. The hotter and smother the iron, the easier it is to seal the keratin.” For Dennis Campeau from DC Salon in Toronto, customization is essential when it comes to selecting a hot tool. “Every hair situation is special. If you can pay attention to detail that’s the key to satisfy clients,” he says. “With the Professional Flat Iron, the control level is phenomenal. Because clients vary in

texture and porosity, the ability to customize to these differences is very important.” Over in Vancouver at The Shop Hair and Esthetics, stylist Jag likes how the Infini Pro Sensor Dryer helps to smooth out the hair. “The hot heat air helps to get the hair nice and smooth right away, which is very important with Brazilian Blow Out,” she says. “For clients with curly or frizzy hair, I can get their locks pretty smooth before I flat iron.” The Professional Flat Iron does not pull the hair either. “You can get nice and close to the roots. With Brazilian Blow Out, you have to give even tension from root to tip,” says Jag. Want more info? Check out rowentabeauty.ca. Photo courtesy Rowenta Beauty

Order tickets: t: 416-960-5545 t: 1-800-960-5545 e: info@robinbarker.ca All proceeds donated to the Stephen Lewis Foundation

HOT OFF THE PRESS

WINNER’S CIRCLE

The Davines World Style contest 2010 has announced the four finalists—Sandro Macri of Salon Collage, Noelle Berlingieri of Soho Salon and Spa, Sarah MacKay of Lavo Salon and Jenny Bell of W.A.C Hair Group. Of these four stylists, one lucky winner will be chosen to represent Davines and Metro Beauty Canada at the Davines World Wide Hair Tour in Berlin this month. Congrats to all the winners and best of luck! Stay tuned… salon52.ca

9/2/10 3:11:26 PM

New Hires

Stephane Gagnon is the new artistic director for Quebec-based Oligo Professionnel. Gagnon has had a 28-year career in the beauty industry and was on the Oligo Professionnel stage at the Inspiration show in Quebec City this past September to present Alcove, Oligo’s new hair care and styling line.

2010-2011 Buyer’s Guide Updates CND 1125 Joshua Way, Vista, CA 92081 ph. 760-599-2900, 877-CND-NAIL fx. 760-599-4007 website: www.cnd.com Brands/Products: Brisa™, Scentsations™ lotions and washes, SpaManicure™, SpaPedicure™, Solar product line (SolarOil™, SolarSpeed Spray™), liquids/powders/ Ttps (Retention+™, Radical™, SolarNail™, Perfect Color Powders, Velocity™, Formation™, Eclipse™), Colour & Effects, Shellac™ Distributors: BC-BSG, Europe Cosmetics; AB-BSG, OBSCO, Pro-Nail Systems; SK-BSG, Salon Centre; MBBSG, Salon Centre; ON-BSG, Intercosmetics, Classique, Europe Cosmétiques; QC-Europe Cosmétiques, Chalut; NB-Maritime; NS-Maritime; PEI-Maritime; NL-PBS

OBSCO of Ottawa 158 Dalhousie St, Ottawa, ON K1N 7C4 ph. 613-241-1515, 800-267-5100 fx. 613-241-5859 e-mail: info@obsco.ca website: www.obsco.ca Brands/Products: La Biosthetique Paris, Soma, Allpresan, Orly, Le Chat, Sudzz, Bioscal, Wahl, Andis, Takara Belmont, Global Salon & Spa, Dannyco

Blown Away Distributed by BC’s Beautique Beauty Inc., Blow Hair Care launches this month in Canada. The line, created by New York stylist Stuart Sklar, is specifically designed to deliver better blow dry results. The products include a Pure Protein Blend to replenish hair with the building blocks for healthier and long-lasting blow dry style. The formulas are free from sulphates, parabens, artificial fillers and sodium-chloride. For more info visit blowNY.com.

Co-Creator & Sponsor of the Salon Business Excellence Award salon52.ca

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Dee Fortier will take her career to the next level as artistic director for Eufora International. Fortier began her career in 1980, then launched her own salon, Deeva Hair in Toronto in 1995.

On the Spa Radar Create a calming, relaxing experience for spa clients with SpaRitual’s Look Inside Organic Scrub Masque and Infinitely Loving Organic Sugar Scrub. Both products are formulated with 77 per cent certified organic ingredients like Chinese jasmine extract and essential oils, your clients will be instantly relaxed and their skin will get the TLC it deserves. For more info check out sparitual.com.

NAHA

North American Hair Styling Awards

Co-Creator & Sponsor of the Salon MBA october 10 < salon

9/1/10 2:35:34 PM

EVENTS

John Paul Mitchell Systems The Gathering 2010 JPMS celebrated 30 years in business at The Gathering 2010, held at Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas from July 25 to 27. The annual event saw the launch of the brand’s new star treatment line Awapuhi. Four thousand people attended, including stylists and media. Pampering Awapuhi treatments were offered to select attendees at Robert Cromean’s A.R.C. Salon in the hotel. Cromeans, JPMS’ global artistic director, CEO John Paul DeJoria and The School founder, Winn Claybaugh, spoke to the enthusastic crowd about inspiration. JPMS artistic directors Angus Mitchell, Linda Yodice, Scott Cole, Stephanie Kocielski and Takashi Kitamura offered classes on creative cutting. Alfred E. Osborne Jr., senior associate dean at the Anderson School of Business at UCLA offered strategies for improving overall salon profitability. Photos courtesy John Paul Mitchell Systems

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salon52.ca

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Matrix Destination Fame The winners of the Matrix Destination Fame online competition came to Toronto to recreate their looks in a professional photo shoot with renowned fashion photographer Ara Sassoonian. They also received expert advice and direction from Matrix mentors Darek Wierzbicki, Derrick Rutherford and Julio Rodrijuez. Winners of this first annual competition—Paula Smith, Michelle Surgeson, Annie Bilodeau, Nathalie Genest and Heidi Kenney—claimed their prize of a two-night stay in Toronto and their winning looks to be featured in the 2011 Matrix calendar and magazine.

Allied Beauty Association General Meeting From June 8 to 12, the ABA held its annual general meeting in Toronto. Festivities included the board of directors meeting, an afternoon of golf, keynote presentations by Mike Lipkin and Leonard Brody, and dinner at the CN Tower restaurant, followed by the President’s Ball. Photos Tom Traves

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october 10< salon

9/1/10 12:37:39 PM

EVENTS

M.C. College at NAHA 2010 One hundred students and staff from all seven M.C. College Group schools across Western Canada took in this year’s North American Hairstyling Awards in Las Vegas. Exposing students to the industry’s best and brightest and inspiring the drive to succeed, all attended the M.C. Viva Las Vegas Conference, which featured Pivot Point international artistic director Yolly Ten Koppel, along with international platform artist Laddie James. Conference attendees also took in a special presentation by longstanding icon and founder of HairDesignerTV.com, Vivienne Mackinder. PHOTOS COURTESY M.C. COLLEGE

Grow your salon’s revenue stream, while your clients grow thicker, healthier hair. Laser Hair Therapy is based on the principles of over 30 years of clinical research performed by scientists in both the United States and Europe. It is an innovative, non-surgical, scientific approach to treating hair loss, thinning hair, pattern baldness, and other problems associated with the scalp. Our machines utilize new low light (cold) laser technology that is FDA approved, noninvasive, highly effective, and proven to treat and control problem hair loss. Laser Hair therapy machines are now available to private salons through our partnership plans. The DynaPro > Currently Seeking Qualified Sales Reps apply to info@bareitbeauty.com

Canada Day 2010 Rudy Pignataro of Toronto’s Salon G&A headed to Ottawa on July 1 to style the stars of this year’s Canada Day celebrations. The stylist had the opportunity to work on everyone from the band Bare Naked Ladies to Joico spokesperson and Olympic silver medal winner in figure skating Joannie Rochette. Before and After - Real Client Results

email. info@bareitbeauty.com | tel. [888]661.6261 | fax. [905]488.7620 | www.bareitbeauty.com

salon > october 10

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9/2/10 2:32:23 PM

MON PLATIN’S range of hair colorants enables hair stylists to achieve precision results while taking great care of the hair’s texture and health.

Create the Difference

Mon Platin Flash Color A range of concentrated red shades for especially bright and bold colors.

Mon Platin Classic Color Enriched with plant extracts to produce rich, deep, shiny tones while providing maximum protection for scalp and hair. Our rich, deep, vibrant shades make turn vision into reality and unique formula, enriched with exclusive plant essences, ensures convenient, clean and highly professional color results rich in herbals. For further inquires on current distribution:

Schwarzkopf Professional Summer Conference

Head Office (Canada): phone: 905.482.4399, 416.834.4729 • fax: 289.597.0224 maycosmetics@yahoo.ca • www.monplatin.com

Team members from across the country headed to Collingwood, ON, for the company’s 2010 Summer Conference. The Blue Mountain resort played host to SKP’s annual team-building event. This year, alongside activities and presentations outlining the company’s objectives, conference attendees also took into a presentation by international Essential Looks ambassador Tom Kroboth. Kathy Simon, Canadian Essential Looks ambassador, was also on hand to offer training, and guests also attended a gala evening launching the Essential Looks Modern Times Collection.

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october 10< salon

9/2/10 2:32:04 PM

EVENTS

Repêchage 30th Anniversary On Aug. 2, Repêchage founder and CEO Lydia Sarfati and her husband COO David Sarfati welcomed guests to Tribeca Rooftop in New York City to celebrate 30 years of business. High profile guests included Felicia Milewicz, beauty director of Glamour magazine, Andrea Robinson, former beauty editor at Vogue, Lesley Jane Seymour, editor-in-chief of More Magazine and Susan Sommers, bestselling author of French Chic and founder of DressZing. The winners of the Spa de Beauté of the Year awards were Michelle Lamb of Lemongrass Spa, Valdosta, GA, Julie Mahoney of Oasis Day Spa, Weymouth, MA, and Mayola Amador of Melange World Spa, Neuvo Vallarta, Mexico.

Julien Grenier Salon & Aesthetics Grand Opening On May 26, Julien Grenier hosted a grand opening for his new, high-end salon—Julien Grenier Salon & Aesthetics—on West Broadway in Vancouver. The 2,500-sq.-ft. salon and spa is contemporary and bright with floor-to-ceiling windows and mirrors. White marble and metallic mosaic tiles contrasts with sleek black furniture, and the salon features state-of-the-art facilities. The space was conceptualized by Box Interior Design, a team that recently won an award for their work on a high-end restaurant in Vancouver’s Shangri-La Hotel.

salon > october 10

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salon52.ca

9/1/10 1:48:40 PM

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2010 DEALS c

in Canada 1.800.661.9997 780.465.2131

Around the World in 8 Shades! ECO Soak Off Gel Jetsetter Collection Kit For the busy client on the go, here’s 8 fabulous NEW Gel Nail Colours that cure instantly in a UV light and last for weeks without chipping or peeling. And when it’s time for a change of colour, simply soak off in 5 minutes! Kit includes 8 - 3.5 g (1/8 oz.) gels

ECO-1232 Salon $39.95

A Great Alternative to Polish... that Lasts! Semi-permanent manicures and pedicures are all the rage today! ECO’s Pretty Tough manicure gives your clients vibrant, superglossy nail colours that outlast and outperform regular nail polish. The Pretty Tough Manicure Soak Off UV Nail Color Master Kit comes with 22 of the hottest fashion forward colour gels PLUS Pink, White, Clear and Base Coat Gel PLUS all of the valuable accessories you’ll need to begin offering this great new service right away including an inspirational step-by-step DVD featuring the latest techniques to keep you at the top of your game!

ECO-1279 Salon $139.95

All gels 3.5 g (1/8 oz). size

ECO Finishing Wipe Finishing Wipe removes tackiness for Eco UV Gel Seal and Eco Soak Off UV Gel. 120 ml size ECO-1271 Salon $5.95

Hoof Cuticle Pusher Ultimate Implements unique “hoof” shaped pusher safely pushes back cuticle and removes pterygium. The “ultimate” preparation tool for all nail applications. Save 47% 40962 Salon $7.95 (reg $14.95)

ECO Semi-Permanent Polish Sealer Finish your Eco Soak Off UV Gel manicure or pedicure with Eco Semi-Permanent Polish Sealer. Dissolves and soaks off easily in acetone. 15 ml. ECO-1272

Salon $4.95

Oct - Dec 2010

OCT - DEC 2010 Exciting NEW Designs from Cinapro

Spa-to-Go Kit A collection of our most desirable spa products in a convenient take-home kit designed to enhance the scentual spa experience. Great for retail!

Crushed Sea Shells Mini Kit Contains real crushed sea shells in 10 different colors: Red, Pink, Magenta, Pearl, Yellow, Teal, Violet, Blue and Green.

Gem Stones Mini Kit Contains rhinestones in 8 different shapes and colors.

Star Nail and Cuccio Naturale are registered Canadian trademarks of 407245 Alberta Ltd.

CI-18123 Salon $4.95

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CI-18121 Salon $5.95

Milk & Honey: 3200 Salon $29.95 Pomegranate & Fig: 3201 Salon $29.95 Contents: Butter Blend 240 g., Sea Salts 240 g., Cuticle Conditioning Butter Stick 1.6 g., Scentual Spa Elixir 60 ml.

Forté Plus Natural Nail Strengthening Kit Botanical 2-step system is guaranteed to help grow stronger, longer and healthier natural nails in 2-3 weeks!

Pretty Pastels Mini Kit Contains REAL dried flowers in Red, Orange, Blue, Green and Violet. CI-18120 Salon $5.95

Kit contains: Forté Botanical Nail Strengthener 15 ml., Forté Plus Cuticle Nutrient Pen 1.6 g.

3197 Salon $11.95

Luxurious Lemongrass & Lavender Invigorating yet calming describes the newest addition to our scentual spa collection. Butter Blend, 240 g. 3172 Salon $9.95 Sea Salts, 553 g. 3194 Salon $19.95

9/1/10 2:39:12 8/24/10 4:50:10 PM

to Salon Magazine

Advertiser Index advertiser

toll free

website

❏ 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (GST INCLUDED)

Bare It Beauty pg 90..........................................866-942-4247......................... www.bareitbeauty.com

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Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 84.................888-737-6268......................... www.micropigmentationcentre.com

MUST BE TO SAME LOCATION. GST INCLUDED)

❏ 1 year U.S. subscription (8 issues) $50.00 USD ❏ Please note my change of address and/or details below for my Salon Magazine subscription.

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China Glaze Vixen pg 57....................................800-621-9585......................... www.chinaglaze.com CND Shellac pg 21............................................877-CND-NAIL....................... www.cnd.com/shellacsm CND Shellac pg 23............................................877-CND-NAIL....................... www.cnd.com/shellacsm Contessa 22 pg 78-79........................................800-720-6665......................... www.salon52.ca

signature

Dermalogica pg 31.............................................866-618-1116......................... www.dermalogica.ca/tradegift

date

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SIGN & DATE TO CONFIRM YOU WANT TO RECEIVE A SUBSCRIPTION TO SALON MAGAZINE *SALON OWNERS MUST COMPLETE SECTION B

❏ I’ve enclosed a cheque payable to: Salon Communications Inc. Bill my ❏ VISA Card ❏ AMEX Card ______________________________________________

Esthetics Plus pg 76..........................................888-422-6677......................... www.epbeauty.ca Eufora Hero pg 35.............................................800-6EUFORA........................ www.euforahero.com Gelish Gel Polish pg 75.....................................800-661-6245......................... www.douglasdistribution.com

CARD NUMBER

Gigi All Purpose Honee pg 99...........................800-621-9585......................... www.gigispa.com

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Global Keratin System pg 71........................................................................... www.globalkeratin.com

______________________________________________ CARDHOLDER’S NAME

Great Lengths pg 41..........................................800-461-9302......................... www.greatlengthscanada.com

EXPIRY DATE

Hot Tools Nano Ceramic pg 65.........................800-487-8432......................... www.hottools.com

❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________

IBD Beauty Gellac pg 63...................................800-621-9585......................... www.ibdbeauty.com

Surname _______________________________________

International Beauty Services pg 56.................800-642-3818

Title ___________________________________________ Business Name____________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________

International Hair & Beauty Systems pg 81..................................................... www.organiccolorsystems.com Joico Vero K-Pak Color pg 10-11......................800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com Kérastase Elixir Ultime pg 12-13.....................800-361-8017......................... www.kerastase.ca

Phone _________________________________________

Kevin Murphy Powder.Puff pg 28......................800-387-2962......................... www.kevinmurphy.com.au

Email__________________________________________

KMS California FlatOut pg 37...........................800-387-3873......................... www.kmscalifornia.com

Website ________________________________________

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se199

FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

L’Oreal Professionnel INOA pg 8-9...................800-361-8017......................... www.inoa.ca L’Oreal Professionnel NAHA pg 16-17..............800-361-8017......................... www.lorealprofessionnel.ca LCN High Gloss pg 53.......................................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca Matrix Destination Fame pg 2-3.......................888-422-6879......................... www.matrix.com May Cosmetics Mon Platin pg 91.................................................................... www.monplatin.com MC College pg 91...............................................888-314-7965......................... www.mccollege.ca Milano Software pg 87.......................................800-667-1596......................... www.milanosystems.com Mixed Chicks pg 96............................................877-888-0480......................... www.mixedchicks.net OPI Swiss Collection pg 19...............................800-341-9999......................... www.opi.com Orofluido Golden Treasure pg 45......................800-387-7980......................... www.orofluido.com Pivot Point pg 90................................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpointcanada.ca Quatum MicroV pg 100......................................800-267-4676......................... www.quantummicrov.ca Redken Color Fusion pg 25...............................866-9REDKEN........................ www.redken.ca Schwarzkopf Hairapalooza pg 22.....................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf IGORA Color10 pg 4-5..................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf OSiS pg 14-15..............................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Star Nail Canada pg 93......................................877-852-STAR........................ www.starnailcanada.com The Business School Humber College pg 83................................................... www.business.humber.ca

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0

TIGI Catwalk pg 39............................................800-259-8596......................... www.catwalkbytigi.com

or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

Wella Koleston Perfect pg 6-7..........................800-41-WELLA....................... www.wellausa.com

salon > september 10

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Unite Haircare pg 27......................................................................................... www.unitehair.ca

salon52.ca

9/2/10 3/7/09 8:13:32 5:04:36 PM PM

EVENTS

Gina’s College Grand Re-Opening After one year of renovations, Gina’s College of Advanced Aesthetics and Hair Design in Waterloo, ON, held a grand opening ceremony on July 26. Local MPP Elizabeth Witmer was on hand for the ribbon-cutting ceremony to commemorate the 31-year-old school’s year-long expansion project. A new hairstyling program being added to the college has resulted in the school doubling in size. At the grand re-opening, the public was invited to tour the facility, meet faculty and learn about the school’s curriculum.

Axcess Salon & Spa Fundraiser Axcess Salon and Spa in Richmond Hill, ON, hosted its annual fundraiser on July 30. As parents themselves, salon owners and partners Mirella and Rocco Campanaro chose to raise funds for the Children’s Wish Foundation, a cause that’s close to their own hearts. Raising approximately $750, six staffers worked feverishly and the salon donated 20 per cent of the day’s gross sales as well as generous personal donations made by clients. Present to support this fundraising initiative was the team from radio station Z103.5 and Salon Magazine’s publisher and president Laura Dunphy. salon52.ca

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Bloggers at Blonde Salon Owner Stacey Staley and the team from Blonde Salon invited fifteen select online media to get a little pampering and a lesson in healthy hair. Bloggers were treated to delicious appetizers, a prescribed Kevin.Murphy treatment and wash and a full blow-out. On hand to help out was brand manager for the Australian line Kevyn Martell, as each stylist broke down what products they were using, how they work and the benefits for each specific hair type.

Hai Elite and Goldwell Distributor Launch Hot tool manufacturer Hai Elite hosted a distributor launch with KPSS Goldwell Canada in Toronto on Aug. 16. Along with its tool lines, Hai Elite also provides advanced education. The company’s international creative director Edward Teitel was in town to provide hands-on training with the Toronto sales group and education directors. october 10< salon

9/2/10 2:29:53 PM

EVENTS

october 2010 ABA CALGARY October 3–4, 2010 Calgary Stampede Park Calgary, AB Info: abacanada.com

HAIRAPALOOZA TORONTO October 24, 2010 Location TBA Info: Schwarzkopf-professional.com Info: premiereshows.com

PREMIERE BEAUTY CLASSIC October 3–4, 2010 Greater Columbus Convention Center Columbus, OH Info: premiereshows.com

ABA MONCTON October 24–25, 2010 Coliseum & Agrena Complex Moncton, NB Info: abacanada.com

L’Oréal Professionnel Educational Programs Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

Hair CLASSES

Matrix Educational Programs Info: 888.422.6879

SALON INTERNATIONAL October 16–18, 2010 ExCeL London London, England Info: salonexhibitions.co.uk PREMIERE BIRMINGHAM October 17–18, 2010 Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, AL

salon > october 10

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Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI Educational Programs Info: 888.251.8466 global best beauty Educational Programs Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 Goldwell Educational Programs including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

Great Lengths Educational Programs Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS Educational Programs Info: 877.670.6767

Redken Educational Programs Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP Educational Programs Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor

Urban Beauty Systems Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available; Info: 866.731.4327

Nail & Esthetics CLASSES Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND Educational Programs Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN Educational Programs Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings Star Nail Educational Programs Info: 800.661.9997 S

TIGI Educational Programs Info: 800.259.8596

salon52.ca

9/1/10 1:49:33 PM

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october 10 < salon

9/1/10 4:21:55 PM

LAST WORD

Colour your WORLD “C

olour,” according to Fernand Léger, the wonderful 20th-century French cubist painter, ”is a basic human need… like fire and water, a raw material, indispensable

salon > october 10

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punishable by death. Thankfully, we don’t take colour as seriously as Nero did, but colour therapy, initially dismissed by many as a “snake oil” fad, has by now established quite a reputation for itself. In fact, colour therapy dates back thousands of years, to the ancient cultures of Egypt, Greece, China and India. It’s based on the principle that every colour has its own properties, wavelength and frequency, which exert an influence on human body chemistry. Scientists have shown red light to be effective in treating migraines and even cancer. And in Britain, thanks to research by the British Medical Research Council, opticians have an Intuitive Colorimeter available to them. The device measures which shade of colour-tinted glasses—yellow, green, bright pink or blue—helps correct dyslexia, or “word blindness,” enabling the individual to read well. Then there’s the psychological effect colours have on us. “Colours are the mother tongue of the subconscious,” said the marvellous Swiss psychiatrist, Carl Jung. This fact has been used to good purpose in prisons. A documentary I saw years ago showed the beneficial effect of exposing violent prisoners to the colour pink. They calmed down. So the next time you consult a client on his or her hair colour, realize that you’re influencing not just their look, but their overall well-being. That’s quite an honour. S

TOP PHOTO: THINKSTOCK, STEINBERG PHOTO: BARRIE WENTZELL

to life.” I couldn’t agree more. My dictionary defines colour as something that causes a “visual sensation.” Perfect. For how dull our craft would be without colour. Our lives, too. We’d still be watching TV in black-and-white. On a less facetious note, people throughout the ages have looked to the colours naturally occurring around them, and reproduced them to enhance their lives. The ancient Egyptians used herbs and fruit to make reds and oranges to colour women’s lips and cheeks. And they liked colourful buildings, painted with scenes of daily life and gods. They made paint by grinding coloured rocks into a powder and adding water, animal glue, egg or gum from acacia trees to make it stick. It wouldn’t have been much fun working as a fabric dyer in Mexico in Aztec times. The Aztecs fixed colours into cloth with urine. They discovered how to make a crimson dye by using female cochineal beetles that feed on cacti. It took about a million beetles to make a pound of water-soluble extract—likely the reason why the Aztecs considered cochineal red dye more valuable than gold. The Spanish later introduced cochineal red to Europe in the 1500s. It’s still in use today, showing up as carmine or E120 to colour everything from cosmetics to pharmaceutical pills to glacé cherries. Ew… Purple was the colour in ancient Rome. They made it from shells of murex shellfish. It took 1,200 shells to produce just one gram of purple dye, which made it very expensive and the poor shellfish almost extinct. Maybe the edicts of Julius Caesar and Augustus that only the emperor could wear purple saved the murex. Then Nero—he who fiddled while Rome burned, and not known for being reasonable—went even further. He made the wearing of purple, and even the sale of purple,

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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