Salon Magazine, October 2011

l salon magazine

the business of canadian beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

The

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30 tips to boost colour business, new smoothing systems, star dos and don’ts and more

Colour Issue

plus Contessa 23 semi-finalists

october 11 $5 salon52.ca

11-09-07 2:37 PM

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AMPLIFY YOUR STYLE WITH

WELLA PROFESSIONALS NEWEST INNOVATION VELVET AMPLIFIER. Prepare your hair for virtually any end look with this velvety-soft styling primer.

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Š 2011 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All Rights Reserved.

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DISCOVER THE INSPIRING W The Redken world is an amazing place to be. Our pillars of Education, Science, Inspiration, Fashion and Business EDUCATION BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SCIENCE FASHION INSPIRATION

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Photo: George Pimentel Designer: David Dixon

Win

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Entries accepted from October 1 – December 31, 2011

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60

Y Salon, U.K.

october.11

l salon MAGAZINE

THE BUSINESS OF CANADIAN BEAUTY AND STYLE

fEatures 44

30 Tips to

From technical tricks to treating virgin hair, superstar colourists from around the country offer their best advice for building and maintaining clientele

51

56

18

Business

Boost Colour

Straight Up The industry’s next generation of smoothing treatments and the lowdown on the innovative new technologies

Viva Las Vegas

58

80

Hair Collections

The latest styles from the F.A.M.E. Team 2011, Irina Laverega, Matrix, Michelle Pargee, Angela Lowery, the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Team and Robyn Saunders

Contessa 23 Semi-Finalists

Find out who made the list for this year’s best in Canadian hairstyling!

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

The

30 tips to boost colour business, new smoothing systems, star dos and don’ts and more

Colour Issue

plus Contessa 23 semi-finalists

OCTOBER 11 $5 SALON52.CA

Collection: The Crimson Collection Hair: Robyn Saunders, Chesters on Hay, Australia Photo: Otilee Styling and makeup: Robyn Saunders and Otilee

NAHA crowns a new set of winners, plus check out trends from the Cosmoprof show floor

salon > october 11

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salon52.ca

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86

Esthetics

82

REGULARS 22

EDITOR’S LETTER

24

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

26

SALON52.CA

29

76

44

30 Tips for Boosting Your Colour Business

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Profile: Catherine Allard

This month on salon52.ca

78 82

HAIRLINES Extreme Makeover for KMS California p. 29; Latest colour launches from Wella, Nutrilux, L’Oréal Professionnel, ISO and Eufora p. 30; Hot new formulas from Redken, Schwarzkopf Professional and EvelineCharles p. 31; Oil Spill p. 32; For the Boys p. 32; Enter the SocialLights contest p. 32; Don’t miss Contessa 23 p. 33; BedHead’s Candy Fixations p. 33; Toolbox: Texture Makers p. 34; Vividly Creative p. 34; Nighttime Nourishment p. 35; Twiddle Dee-Dee p. 35; Business: ‘Tis the Season p. 38; Shelf Life: Six new products for fall p. 40

Salon Escape’s Robert Barbosa shares his Contessa 22 finalist collection for Ontario Hairstylist of the Year

PROFILE

Redken platform artist and Montreal salon owner Catherine Allard shares her colour secrets

84

NAILS

86

ESTHETICS

88

INTERIORS

96

SCOOP

98

EVENTS

106

LAST WORD

COLOUR

Top stylists and colour experts call out the good, the bad and the ugly of celeb colour in 2011

CONTESSA GALLERY

Six common nail problems for clients

Makeup artists offer advice when making a drastic colour switch

EvelineCharles Salon & Spa, Edmonton

JPMS’ The Gathering, Quantum goes to Kenya and more

by John Steinberg

34

HAIRLINES Rowenta Beauty Versa Style Iron

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:20 PM

OPI’S NEW shatter SHADE FOR BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH ™

LET’S SHATTER BREAST CANCER! A warm shade of pink that creates a bold, inspiring two-texture effect when applied over two coats of completely dry nail lacquer. Finish with Top Coat for high-gloss shine!

shatter PINK OF HEARTS

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2011 EDITION

In support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, OPI has made a donation to Susan G. Komen for the Cure® in the U.S. and to Rethink Breast Cancer in Canada.

Find us on: CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Call 800.341.9999 ©2011 OPI Products Inc.

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E D I T O R ’ S l etter

h, the first time. Do you remember yours? Who doesn’t? My virgin hair, never having felt the effects of lightener, was in for a shock. I was in high school, and my mother refused to allow me to get highlights unless I paid for them myself. So I saved every penny from my afterschool job and a month later, off I went.

My stylist, Jennifer, wove in three different shades of highlights, two golds and a red. It was subtle—people honestly couldn’t tell—but I felt like a 16-year-old fashion model, strutting around with my new cut and colour. That afternoon was the first in a line of many colour services, including so many highlights that I was nearly a blonde, as well as the time I went dark chocolate brown with purple streaks. As you might guess, colour is near and dear to my heart.

That’s why I was so excited to devote so much space to it in this issue. In our main feature, you’ll find 30 Tips to Boost Your Colour Business on p. 44. Salon Magazine’s French editor, Yasmin, and I talked to stylists across the country to find out their best tricks and techniques for customer service, building your book and creating great shades. We even got advice on how to lure in those virgins! We had so many tips that we couldn’t even fit them all in, so after you’re done head online to Salon52.ca to find more. And feel free to share your own—you can contribute your ideas at Facebook.com/Salon52.

Who doesn’t love to pass judgment on celebrities’ good, bad and ugly shades? Check out p. 76 to find out what some stylists had to say on 2011’s hits and misses. Finally, don’t miss the beautiful collections in the Visual Features section. There are some great colours there for fall that will hopefully inspire you with your own clients.

Happy colouring!

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Melissa Hill Editor

IT’S ALMOST HERE...

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Photo: alvaro goVeia, makeup: LanaGmakeup.com

A

The Slippery Colour Slope

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/salon52 or email me at Melissa@beautynet.com.

salon52.ca

11-09-07 2:45 PM

who are you?

The go-getter?

The glamour gurrrrl?

Brisa™ Gel is a study in contrasts.

Perfect, natural-looking nails flexible enough to go anywhere or vivid bold nails for the ultimate style statement.

Sculpt. Enhance. Extend.

Or just correct the tiniest of flaws!

The Brisa Gel System.

From CND.

7 years in a row!

cnd.com Š2011 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 20 issue 13

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@beautynet.com group ART DIRECTor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com editor-in-chief (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com associate Editor

Noelle Stapinsky > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | noelle@beautynet.com online editor

Marlene Rego > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | marlene@beautynet.com designer

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com senior staff writer

Pam Fulford copy Editor

Our work is never done

Jennifer D. Foster Contributors

Lauren Ferranti-Ballem, Chris Tsintziras

I

publisher/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy Publisher

PS—As we were going to press, we got word that our dear friend and industry legend, John Steinberg, had passed away after a battle with cancer. Our condolences to his family and friends. We'll have more in the November/December issue on John and his legacy.

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Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com Director of Sales & Business Development

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com Sales Associate

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@beautynet.com production manager

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com operations manager

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulation manager

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca Finance

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com cHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vice-president & West coast editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

Subscription rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD Photo: alvaro goveia, makeup: LanaGmakeup.com

recently read a news story about London’s Kew Gardens.

As someone who loves gardening, this line from the story resonated with me most: "the work of a gardener is never done as gardens keep evolving by the nature of it, growing and ever changing." It made me think about how that statement relates to the professional beauty business. I’m fortunate enough to touch base with a lot of interesting people, and the ones I’m often struck by are those successful people who strive to continue to grow and evolve.

Over the past couple of months, I’ve been working with Rossa Jurenas, as we plan her Contessa presentation on behalf of Schwarzkopf Professional for this year's gala. During one of our first phone calls, she was so excited because she had just returned from getting one-on-one training from Vivienne Mackinder at her studio in the Hamptons. Rossa explained that she wanted to kick up her game, and felt she had to go outside her network to do so.

I was so impressed with Rossa’s commitment to her career and development. She’s a Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist and in 2006 she was one of the youngest stylists ever to win Canadian Hairstylist of the Year. One might think she was already at the top of her game.

This is not unlike Vivienne herself. Anyone who’s followed Vivienne’s career path knows she’s been at the top of her game for awhile. In recent years, she's also become a huge advocate for utilizing online media. She launched HairdesignerTV.com, created the documentary series, I’m Not Just a Hairdresser, plus many online webinars and videos. And she continues to push the envelope. “A day when I do not learn is a day that I’m not growing. As a leader it’s critical to stretch and grow,” she says. “As a stylist, I’m only as good as my last shoot or style.

With this in mind I want to practise and refine my skills daily.”

My sense is, people who push themselves also create a dynamic energy, which feeds the evolution of the industry. With people like this, the beauty business can only continue to thrive.

addr ess c ha n ge s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

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Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon52.ca

11-09-07 2:47 PM

MAKE IT WITH I.COLOR’s NEW GEMSTONE COLLECTION vibrant, long-lasting and luminous.

Featuring i.Color’s standout Triple-Lock Delivery System

– a synergistic and simultaneous delivery system of permanent conditioning and color that locks deep within the hair shaft.

The Gemstone Collection shades are proven to provide:

Superior vibrancy vs. existing i.Color reds More than 2X the shine* Gemstone Collection reds last 39% longer than traditional reds** * vs. untreated ** average increase vs. existing i.Color reds www.isohair.com ©Innovative Styling Options, Inc., division of Piidea Canada Ltd. Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3

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Printed in Canada

11-08-03 7:55 PM

salon52.ca what’s on

october 11

s52 collections > MATRIX > IRINA LAVREGA > F.A.M.E. TEAM 2011 > MICHELLE PARGEE > ANGELA LOWERY > L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Take Salon with you wherever you go!

Collections

Tony Ricci

Lina Shamoun

Robert Barbosa

TRENDS

Oliver Miotto

Michelle Pargee

Sylvain Beller...

Gian Paulo Co...

Uyen Huynh

Christopher De...

Keep everything you love about the magazine at your fingertips. The new Salon Magazine app is available for free in the iTunes store. Read the latest industry news, watch videos, browse collections and check event listings, all from your iPhone. Go to Facebook.com/Salon52 to tell us how you like it!

Like us on Facebook

SALON MAGAZINE APP: CONTESSA 22 WINNERS. FOR FULL CREDITS SEE PAGE 90.

COLLECTION: DUAL VOLTAGE, PHOTO: MATRIX GLOBAL DESIGN TEAM

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

s52 news+events Check out salon52.ca for the latest on industry news, products and events.

straight to your inbox See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter.

Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

talk to us!

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

And we’ll like you back! Every time we get 250 new fans, we’re giving away a package of appliances, which include either a hair dryer, flat iron or curling iron. Just go to Facebook.com/Salon52 now and join the conversation.

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StyleMasters_FullPageMayJune Ad_Layout 1 copy 11-06-01 11:24 AM Page 1

CHARLIE PRICE Denver, CO, USA Awarded International Hairstylist of the Year in 2007 and member of the Style Masters Team

THE COLOMER GROUP

Professional styling to reinvent yourself everyday Revlon Professional brand introduces you to Style Masters: a new professional styling range created in collaboration with some of the best hairstylists in the world. Now you can take home the professional touch of your hairdresser.

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6/8/11 7:33:35 PM

NEW ADDITIONS TO THE KEVIN.MURPHY FAMILY

COLOR.BUG is wipe on, wipe off colour! Just for fun and just for the one night. COLOR.BUG adds body to hair, you can keep this raw texture or add a fine mist of hairspray to lock on the colour.

ANTI.GRAVITY is an oil free volumiser and texturizer that adds control to fly aways with an oil free shine. Helps hold style whether it is curled or blown out.

Adds control to flyaway hair with an oil free shine.

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KEVIN.MURPHY www.kevinmurphy.com.au

11-09-07 9:27 PM

hairlines

news

K

Extreme Makeover per cent focused on driving salon success and to do that, we’re breaking the rules by not talking to stylists. Instead, we’re empowering them to grow their personal brands and businesses by highlighting their style—providing the tools and products to enhance their creativity.” Along with the redesign, the company has also launched a new online home for stylists at KMSCalifornia.com, which is meant to be an inclusive “living billboard” and a place where stylists can connect and share their individual styles.

photos courtesy of kms california

MS California is making waves with a redesigned look and a whole new attitude for the brand.

Originally founded in 1976, the relaunch includes a dynamic website and striking package design. The new lineup boasts easy-to-understand technology and innovation that promises to change the way stylists approach their work for both clients and editorially. “This is not just a skindeep facelift,” says Cory Couts, president and CEO of KPSS North America. “It’s a total attitude adjustment. We’re 100

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hairlines

colour launches

Colour goes 3-D

Create beautiful brunettes, sultry reheads and bodacious blondes this fall with these new colour products.

Go Bold

W

ella Professional’s new 3D Color Effects service is a combination of techniques and shades that deliver fine nuances to hair colour, creating a multidimensional effect.

Stylists can add depth to any colour, without a line of demarcation, and layer panels of colour, while graduating shades from root to tip.

“The idea of putting colour into the hair from a 3-D perspective is all about how you choose the colours that work with each other. It’s also about where you place the colour in the hair so you make lighter parts stand out more and darker and deeper shades more recessive,” says Josh Wood, global creative director for Wella Professional.

Age-Defying Three new vivid shades from iColor Brights' Gemstone Collection are making their way to the salon in time for fall. A bright prismatic red, a bold, rich red and a daring, vibrant violet from ISO’s colour line offer superior vibrancy, more than double the shine and reds that last 39 per cent longer than iColor’s traditional reds.

Intercosmo Introduces Nutrilux Offering an ammonia-free formula with macadamia oil, this colour line promises up to 100 per cent coverage—depending on hair type—and moisturized natural shades with saturated highlights. The macadamia, cyperus and rosehip oils all work to soothe the strands during the service.

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This new addition to L'Oréal Professionnel's INOA family of colour offers the first ammoniafree age-defying hair colour for 70 to 100 per cent grey hair.

No mixing of shades means a faster application and precise results. The line also offers a shorter development time of 30 minutes. The companion take-home line, Age Supreme Integral, helps redensify, renourish and restore radiance for aging hair.

Radiant revival

These colour refreshing masks, by EvelineCharles, revive dull, faded hair colour. Available for copper, blonde and red hair, the masks deposit intense pigment and penetrate the hair with wheat and vegetable proteins. The cuticle is sealed with reparative vitamins and smoothing silicones to lock the colour in and enhance shine.

salon52.ca

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Hot new shades

R

edken has added to its Shades EQ (equalizing conditioner) semi-permanent gloss line with a new cream formula. Using the cream, stylists will be able to achieve more precise colour placement. It’s available in 21 new cream shades—including clear—with intense reds and long-lasting coppers. With no-lift and no ammonia—just like the gel—it delivers straight deposit.

The red shades use R5 red dye, an extremely chromatic, oxidative dye, which creates red tones that last. And using Rubilane technology, the copper shades maintain intensity even after 20 shampoos.

Intense tones IGORA Vibrance, Schwarzkopf Professional’s demi-permanent colour line, has been relaunched with a new formula.

Using multi-layer technology, the demi line features superimposable pigments that build the colour layer-by-layer, penetrating deep into the hair.

For up to 70 per cent more shine, the line has Manoi de Tahiti oil as its star ingredient.

IGORA Vibrance comes in 43 ammonia-free tone-on-tone shades—including a 15-minute clear shine gloss.

Protecting colour— naturally Protect clients’ colour with this dashing duo, which has been added to Eufora’s eco-friendly line. The Color Locking System, featuring Sculpture Styling Glaze and Illuminate Shine Mist, uses natural ingredients, botanical extracts and pure essential oil to add weightless shine and preserve colour up to 30 per cent longer.

salon52.ca

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©2011 Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea canada Ltd., Pointe-claire, Qc H9R 5N3

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hairlines

news

Oil Spill

Unleash Your Inner #SocialLight

L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil This blend of avocado and grape seed oils leaves hair instantly supple, tamed and glossy.

Kevin.Murphy Young.Again Apply daily to infuse hair with protection from heat and the environment.

Kérastase Elixir Ultime Nourish and condition while smoothing the hair fibre with antioxidant active ingredients and a blend of oils.

AG Hair Cosmetics The Oil Made with argan oil, the ingredient is sourced using organic, sustainable farming methods and supports cooperatives in one of the poorest regions of Morocco.

BC Bonacure Oil Miracle Using argan oil, this finishing treatment infuses locks with shine and softness in an ultra-fine layer. It comes in two formulas, one for fine hair and one for medium to thick hair.

Redken All Soft Argan-6 Oil Dramatically transform the texture of dry, brittle hair and restore hair’s protein with this argan-oil enriched formula.

Rusk Deepshine Oil Lightweight and alcohol-free, this argan oil treatment can also be added to hair-colour mixtures to enhance shine and condition.

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Get inspired by L’Oréal Professionnel’s SocialLights collection, then create your own style based on the looks, and you could win the chance to be featured in Salon Magazine! Grab your September copy of the magazine to see the six styles, then go to Facebook.com/LorealProCanada to upload your own interpretation starting October 1. One winner will receive airfare to partake in international education at a L’Oréal Academy, plus a feature in Salon Magazine and coverage on our website, Salon52.ca.

For the Boys Co-owner and co-founder, John Paul DeJoria, parachuted into the audience at the John Paul Mitchell Systems’ annual The Gathering event to introduce 3,500 stylists and distributors to the company’s new men’s line, MITCH. Landing in salons and barbershops this fall, the line includes a sulfate-free 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner, plus six new styling products.

“Male consumers worldwide spend $61.3 billion annually,” says DeJoria. “The men’s category is the fastestgrowing segment in our industry, and sales from men’s grooming products grew nearly 70 per cent in the last five years.”

oil spill photo: chris tsintziras

What started with the introduction of Moroccanoil has become big business for the beauty industry. It’s clear that our love affair with oils continues, as new products continue to launch in the category.

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:20 PM

Cities After Dark

PHOTO: CONTESSA 22, MELANIE WHITE, STUDIO H, LONDON, ONT, HAIR: MELANIE WHITE, PHOTO: JASON BROWN

d

on’t miss this year’s annual Contessa gala, honouring the very best in the Canadian professional beauty industry. The awards evening takes place October 30, where we’ll announce the winners in 23 categories, including Canadian Hairstylist of the Year! Check out p. 80 for a full list of this year’s semi-finalists. The event will be held at Toronto's Sheraton Centre Hotel (123 Queen Street West). Tickets are on sale now! Call 416-869-3131, ext.108 or email contessas@beautynet.com to purchase.

Sweet Treats

Hair care’s never been so yummy. TIGI Bed Head has made a splash with its new line of texture products, Candy Fixations.

With a scent that’s good enough to eat, the line includes: root booster Sugar Dust, full-bodied texture spray Sugar Shock, light, fluffy texturizer Mega Whip and the meringue-like styling prep Totally Baked. Go to tigihaircare.com for more.

salon52.ca

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©2011 Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea canada Ltd., Pointe-claire, Qc H9R 5N3

october 11 < salon

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hairlines

toolbox

Texture Makers

From beautiful waves to spirals, there's no doubt curls are in.

Here are two new tools to help you create great ones.

You told us: “I love this iron because it gives a look that is uniquely its own and it's so user-friendly!"

Brenda Osborne, stylist and artistic director, HOT Style Council

Rowenta Beauty Versa Style This iron heats as high as 230 C in 30 seconds.

An LCD display gives clear temperature reads.

You told us: “The Versa Style provides incredible root lift and frizz-free curls, all thanks to the tool's ceramic titanium tourmaline plates.”

Luigi Rosi, Krazystylist and lead stylist, Rowenta Beauty

Versatility Create soft or finger waves, kinks, loose or tight curls, roller set looks or smooth and straight hair with one tool.

Unique Shape Unlike typical flatirons, the rounded sides keep styles from showing demarcation lines.

Hot Tools Blue Ice Titanium 1" Tapered Iron Flipperless for a single wrap curl and a titanium surface for maximum heat distribution.

Stylist-Friendly Variable heat settings, a cool tip and a heatresistant glove make handling easy.

Multiple Sizes Creates beautiful spirals with a 1"-barrel tapering to 1/2" at the tip. The iron is also available in 3/4" and 1 1/4" sizes.

hairlines

news

For Pravana’s Show Us Your VIVIDs colour contest, hairstylist Brig Van Osten created a daring new colour technique using Pravana Chroma Silk and VIVIDs to inspire entrants.

Van Osten’s Colour Drafting technique— inspired by her passion for painting—uses medical tape to section off hair. For the bob, Van Osten placed medical tape an inch from the end of the hair, tracing the shape of the cut. She used Pravana ChromaSilk

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to lighten ends below the tapeline. Using a variety of colours, she used household sponge paintbrushes to add on the colours free hand. “I did take risks with this technique, and I wasn’t sure if I was going to love it. But I do,” says Van Osten. “VIVIDs provides the perfect consistency and delivers vibrant hair colour.” To see a stepby-step of Colour Drafting, go to www.pravana.com/showusyourvivids.

Photos courtesy of pravana

Vividly Creative

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:23 PM

news

Twiddle Dee-Dee Create soft curls, LA waves or spirals with a cool new tool that offers a revolutionary way to get curly.

The U.K.-invented TwiddleStics, by Doll Haircare, uses CoolCurl heat-absorbing technology to create twists that stay put. Stylists simply wrap the hair around the TwiddleStic, then apply heat using any flat iron, while rotating the stick backward and forward to set the curl.

Available in three sizes—Bouncey Belle, Lucy Locks and Twisted Tallulah—TwiddleStics absorb the heat when applied to the hair, keeping the moisture content in the hair and cooling it down during the process.

Nighttime nourishment

G

etting a good night’s sleep is vital to your health, since that's the time when your body goes through a system-wide repair. It's also the perfect time to use Dermalogica's new Overnight Repair Serum, part of its Age Smart line. As the first serum using peptides in a botanical oil base, it’s designed to firm the skin, restore and maintain suppleness and moisture, as well as stimulate collagen.

Argan oil in the serum shields the lipid barrier and inhibits the production of enzymes, which break down collagen. Dermalogica has also opened a new treatment room at its Toronto training centre, which will be used to introduce treatments to VIPs and guests.

salon52.ca

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©2011 Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea canada Ltd., Pointe-claire, Qc H9R 5N3 HAiR Damien carney PHoTo Hama Sandersa

october 11 < salon

35

11-09-08 3:23 PM

©2011 Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea canada Ltd., Pointe-claire, Qc H9R 5N3 HAiR Damien carney PHoTo Hama Sandersa

ild it. u b o t s l o the to e v a h e w eam it, r d n a c u If yo call 1-800

036.037.se.o11.joico.2.indd 36

-267-4676 fo r details

11-09-07 7:06 PM

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STRUCTUR

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.uk

11-09-07 7:06 PM

hairlines

business

Tips for a winning holiday display:

• Find one theme and

stick to it

• Less is more • Think chic, clean and

refined

• Religion-neutral

C

ome late November, salons are in a frenzy of activity. But if you really want to harness the retail opportunities, you have to start early. By October, you should be prepping promotions and fine-tuning merchandising strategies and decorating ideas.

You’ll want to make sure you’re in full retail mode so you can bank the extra sales dollars to overcome that January slump.

Industry statistics say post-Christmas revenues are usually 30 per cent less than those in December. Time to make that cash register chime!

Planning is essential ”Salons have to think of themselves as retail destinations for holiday shopping. You’re actually competing with all the other stores in the mall and in your neighbourhood for that coveted gift dollar,” says Joseph Gossen, education and sales manager for Kevin.

Murphy at Quebec distributor Star Bédard.

Mathieu Bouchard, marketing and education manager for Kérastase, recommends rethinking your position in the market. “You have to position your salon as a beauty destination that’s competing with stores like Ogilvy’s—a luxury Montreal retailer—and

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Holts, particularly if your salon is high end.

When you consider the amount of time your client spends in your salon, it can definitely help sales.”

If you really want to entice people to come into your salon for gift shopping, you need to fine-tune your retailing strategy. “All salons should have a retail calendar that covers the entire year,” says Gossen. “And the earlier you start, the better. Plan Christmas promos in October to capitalize on shoppers’ early generosity.” And, in terms of timing, as soon as the Christmas season is over and out, start rolling out your Valentine’s Day promos immediately. Seriously.

Stocking up “Always have your shelves fully stocked and make sure the products are easy to reach.

Nobody’s going to buy a product they can’t access themselves,” warns Gossen. He goes even further by saying that you should maximize all areas of your salon. “Look at your layout and analyze where your clients spend most of their time. You can even promote a hand cream in your bathroom,” he says. And remember retail’s golden rule: eye level is buy level.

In December, make sure you increase

your inventory from a 14-day supply to a 21day supply to guarantee product availability.

Remember distributors and sales rep will also be taking time off in December. So make sure you stock up ahead of time!

Spirit of the season Another way to push sales is through decorations. But remember, it has to reflect your salon's style and your clientele. “Clean, chic and religiously-neutral is the way to go,” says Gossen.

According to Bouchard, who organized a contest Kerastase ran last year for best salon holiday display, “You need to look at three goals when creating winning holiday merchandising: stimulate sales, recruit new clients and position your salon as an exceptional retail destination.”

What’s more, this festive time of the year can also be beneficial for strengthening bonds between staff.

“When creating a holiday display, involve all of your team. The goal is to bring forward a team spirit, which, in turn, will create a positive atmosphere in the salon. And clients are always very receptive to that,” says Bouchard. Result: a winning holiday season for both you and your salon guests!

text: yasmin grothé, photo: courtesy of Kérastase

’Tis the Season

The holidays are right around the corner. Here’s how your salon can capitalize on the festivities

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:23 PM

Stylist Phillip Wilson, and his weapon of choice.

At FHI Heat®, we make tools that empower stylists to reveal their creativity. The revolutionary KORE™ line of professional tools stays true to this mission by delivering innovative products and inspirational education. KORE celebrates the creativity and passion that fuels stylists to pursue their craft.

Visit FHIHEAT.com to learn more about KORE™

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hairlines

shelf life

4

Whip It Apply Redken’s Tousle Whip 04 to damp hair before blowdrying or to dry hair for added texture.

This flexible formula acts as a styling cream and wax, all in one.

Info: redken.ca

2 3

Mature Mousse For client’s with more mature hair, Kérastase Mousse Substantive has anti-oxidant ingredients and adds structure without weighing down the hair. Shake the bottle well before applying to towel-dry hair.

Info: kerastase.com

Prime Time Apply Wella’s Velvet Amplifier to wet hair to improve manageability. It’s a styling serum that primes the surface of the hair for added control and smoothness with any hairstyle or texture. Info: wellausa.com

1

5

4

Stay in the Loop The Dannyco Loop microfibre towels are stain resistant and quick drying with a handy loop attached to one corner, to easily secure the towel around a client’s neck.

Info: dannyco.com

5 2

Pump it Up Define curls with Schwarzkopf’s OSiS+ Pump My Curls spray cream. Its ultra-strong hold allows stylists to create thick, soft curls and even tame rebellious locks.

Info: schwarzkopfprofessional.ca

3

6 6

Gentlemen Prefer Blondes Revlon Professional’s Blonde Sublime Shampoo enhances highlights and blondecoloured hair using a Hydra Capture system that moisturizes fragile hair fibre at its core, while improving the hair’s health and adding shine.

Info:revlonprofessional.com S

Photo: Chris Tsintziras Text: noelle stapinsky

1

Six new products your clients will love

To find out how you can win the products from this page, go to Facebook.com/salon52.

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salon52.ca

11-09-07 2:55 PM

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11-09-08 11:57 AM

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30

Tips for Boosting Your Colour Business

By Melissa Hill and Yasmin Grothé

From technical tricks to treating virgin hair, star colourists around the country offer their best advice on building and maintaining a strong colour clientele.

Biz Boost: Communication

“The verbiage used to describe colours to clients is key. Romance them with yummy words during the consultation. I might say for example: ‘Today, I was thinking that it would be pretty to infuse some threads of cayenne into your existing chocolate foundation and spice up your hue for fall.’ Clients just don’t care what a 7KR is.”

Joan Novak, hair artist, Goldwell Core North American Artistic Team, owner, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C.

2

#

“We always have a consultation with our clients before we mix the colour. Ask the client how he or she feels about the colour now? What he or she would change? This is the perfect opportunity to use our knowledge as colourists to explain to the client any new or interesting styles and trends.

Michelle Cannon, co-owner, Salon Utopia, Lakeshore, Ont.

#3

“No matter how long you’ve been seeing them, really listen to the clients. You

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need to find out what works for a person’s lifestyle. Find out how often they want to come back. You don’t want to give high-maintenance hair to a low-maintenance person, and you want to work with their lifestyle and budget.”

Tammie Axworthy, co-owner, Salon Haven, Brantford, Ont.

#4

“If a client is asking for something that is not suitable or the hair can’t take it, I go to a quieter corner of the salon, get a stool, sit face to face and talk to her. I never criticize the choice, but I talk about how an alternate choice might be more suitable to her skin tone, features or her hair’s condition.

Or I ask, ‘Can I tell you what I would do if you left it 100 per cent up to me?’ Be honest with your client.”

Crystal Brown, technical director, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton

5

#

“Build your client’s trust. I know you’re probably thinking, ‘Duh…of course I wouldn’t colour her hair blue when all she wanted was

a 'change.' It takes a good listener—not only during the initial consultation, but at the start of every visit—to fully understand the boundaries and limits set by the client. She may have all the best features to wear a deep auburn, but if she’s not ready to take a huge risk from her chestnut with highlights, do not push the issue. Simply plant a seed.”

Mickey Svircevic, executive stylist for Farouk systems, stylist, Mane Society Salon & Spa, Woodbridge, Ont.

6

#

“Education is the most important thing in any business, and it’s especially important for colour, because it's always changing.

Our salon’s main line is Schwarzkopf and we get educated at least seasonally at the salon on new products and trends. We also meet internally to discuss the latest looks and techniques. We really try to share our knowledge.”

Lydia Javier, head colourist, Afif Salon, Toronto

#7

“To maintain fabulouslooking colour, I suggest semi-

permanent shine treatments like Diacolor Richesse from L’Oréal Professionnel, which is ammonia-free. It’s a great add-on service at the end of summer, and a great way to boost revenue between more extensive colour services.

Obviously, I always suggest using colour-friendly shampoos, too.”

Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal

Hair: Wild Life Origin Hair Team, Wild Life Origin, Sydney Australia, Stylist: Emily McGregor, Makeup: Isabella Schimid, Photos: Liz Ham

1

#

salon52.ca

11-09-08 4:44 PM

Biz Boost: Trendspotting #8

"We use Wella's new Brilliance line, which is absolutely amazing for coloured hair. Even after using it just once, clients report instant shine and more luminous hair.

It also helps keep colour intact.

In terms of colour, I think strawberry blonde is the new blonde for this season."

Stephan W, co-owner and stylist, Studio MW, Montreal

9

#

#10

“I still find we’re really big into colour panelling, tone-on-tone colour and getting more into stronger, bolder colours. With panels, a full head doesn’t take as much time or as much product. Clients like it because it’s new and different.

Fall trends are a little bit more daring. So I think panels are a good way to introduce something new in terms of colour.”

Rossa Jurenas, owner, Studio Rasa, Schwarzkopf Professional educator

salon52.ca

se.o.11.coll.tips.3-2R.indd 45

#11

#13

12

#14

“Brighter reds are really hot this season. Instead of the blonde bombshell, it’s going to be the red bombshell for fall 2011. People are more willing to take chances. Red is beautiful, it makes you stand out in the crowd. Red can suit anyone, depending on the shade you choose.”

Judy MacDonald, The Hair Factory, Halifax

#

“For fall/winter, I think we'll see more colours and bold shades, deeper, darker tones, charcoal browns, deep burnt reds and golden blondes alongside bold shades of purples, pinks and blues. My biggest piece of advice when colouring hair is, let the world and the people around you inspire you.”

Julie Vriesinga, stylist, Entrenous Salon, London, Ont.

“Moving forward into 2012, we're going to see a lot more solid colours. We're also moving into darker tones like rich chocolate browns. Ash blondes are also making a comeback, as well as pastels.

There are a lot of hipsters out there sporting the paler strands."

Simon Chercuitte, stylist, Le Coupe Salon, Montreal

“Promote express colour services to existing clients who are cost-conscious or pressed for time. With the latest technologies, like Schwarzkopf’s Colour 10, clients can manage a lunch-hour appointment, and by saving time and money, they will be able to increase the frequency of their visits.”

Lou Petrie, owner, Echo Hair Studio, Kingston, Ont. t

“I really like the ‘livedin’ trend, so I’ve been doing a technique where the ends are teased and the remaining strands are lightened using Paul Mitchell Dual Purpose Lightener with five volume all over. Then I tone it down with PM Shine, to give hair a very diffused colour.

You don’t need to go from brown to blonde, it can be dark red to lighter red. It all depends on the overall effect you’re after, but it’s definitely a great way to create a look that’s not overly dramatic.”

Madi Pereria, AMP Salon, Burlington, Ont.

october 11 < salon

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11-09-08 3:25 PM

Biz Boost: Tricks & Techniques “One of the things I’ve done is take clients who are used to the same colour all over and infused two to five slices of bright lowlights into their existing colour. Sometimes we think the only way to dimensionalize the hair is with highlights, but adding in threads of more vibrant or deeper hues makes the hair sing and it doesn’t go unnoticed by others.

From there, the next time the clients come in, I make further recommendations and add another layer of interest into their colour. Within a year, I’ve taken clients that were used to paying $65-70 per visit for allover colour to $95-135 per visit for multi-dimensional colour. I expanded on the dollars spent by existing clientele and built new business on top of that because other clients noticed!”

Joan Novak, hair artist, Goldwell Core North American Artistic Team, owner, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C.

16

#

“When you’re using a global lightener and you think it’s done, wait five minutes. Hair expands and gives the illusion that you have something that is lighter or cooler than what you actually

46

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have. There’s nothing wrong with wiping off a section of colour to make sure.”

Crystal Brown, technical director, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Laura Brookes, colour technician, Mosaic Salon, Toronto, says:

#17

“When you colour blondes that have highlights with extended regrowth, tone the root with a light toner (Level 9 or 10) with 20 volume developer for five minutes to shift the pigment, so the client doesn’t look like she has regrowth with highlights in it.”

18

#

“For colouring short hair, use a fine-tooth comb with colour on it and comb the hair line. You can colour the rest of the hair with a colour brush, but this will help prevent stains around the hairline.”

#19

“When highlighting a client who pulls her hair back often, make sure you do the front hairline from ear to ear, as the highlight will run vertical to prevent lines. Also, to create a softer highlight, tilt the colour brush on an angle at the root and it wont appear as bold.”

#20 “As clients age and

their hair matures, they lose pigment in their hair and skin. I would recommend using warm colours, because they usually look best. If the client prefers a cooler tone, use a beige colour to create a cool tone without using too much warmth.”

#21

“Leave some natural or naturally coloured sections of hair between your slices, blocks or highlights. For spring and summer, these sections are easy to lighten or brighten.

Then for fall and winter, use a semi or demi colour on most of the head to add some darker dimension. When spring comes around again, it will be easy to re-lighten, and the hair's integrity will be intact and beautiful."

Dale Seeman, owner, Zootz Hair Studio, Vancouver

#22

“Many of our salon guests like their blonde shades to be committment-free. We don't compromise the blonde they love, but use a ‘skip’ technique by foiling every other panel and leaving those in between natural. This takes half the time, the roots are less conspicuous growing

out and it results in a bigger impact with contrast."

Catherine Moreau, Loki Salon, Toronto

23

#

“When you're in a rut and not sure how to change it up, just do the opposite of what you've been doing. For example, if you're in the habit of weaving your foils in, try slicing them instead or change the direction from horizontal to vertical. For ideas, I recommend J-color Systems on DVD by Joico. It has 12 different, salonfriendly colour techniques designed by Sue Pemberton.

That will get you thinking outside the box.”

Karyne McKean, key technical advisor, Joico Canada

#24 “We are constantly

looking for exciting ways to intrigue virgin-haired clients and add to our colour sales. We've been successful at that by customizing small hair pieces and wefts in varying shades. They are easy to make and clients always ask, ‘What are you making?’

Simply taking a weft of hair and a little leftover colour, you can customize for your client.”

Chris Lee, Destination Hair, Ottawa

t

#15

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:25 PM

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Biz Boost: Build Your Book

25

# “When a guest is in for a haircut, be aware of colour openings and cross-promote a colour service. This can also become a reward program for staff. Set goals for the number of guests to be cross-promoted in a week. The colourist who meets or exceeds the goal is rewarded.”

Julie Silva, national manager for Haircolour, Aveda

#26

To introduce clients who are hesitant to committing to colour, try a colour gloss. A translucent overlay of colour will leave hair conditioned and shiny. The gloss will fade gradually, leaving no roots. This process can help ease clients into the idea of doing colour on a more regular basis, without the fear of permanency.”

Lou Petrie, owner, Echo Hair Studio, Kingston, Ont.

#27

“For clients with grey hair or your male clientele, this

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is the perfect opportunity to utilize your demi-permanent colours to just blend and soften the grey without giving 100 per cent coverage, which means low commitment for the client. Even if you get turned down the first time, don’t get discouraged. You have planted a seed that will get your client thinking about the service, and it may not be long before you see his or her name booked in your column for colour.”

Karyne McKean, key technical advisor, Joico Canada

#28

“An invitation for a client to return shouldn’t make her feel like she’s getting a discount flyer that every client is getting in the mailbox. If she returns with a coupon, she’s only a repeat client because of it. My invitation is for the individual. During her visit, I make her aware of any colour changes we can make at her next appointment. For example: ‘The slightly warmer

tones in this caramel bronze colour complement your hazel eyes and summer tan. But for your next visit, we'll use a deeper lowlight, which is the change you'll need to make for autumn.’ And there you have it. The secret invitation.

Or re-invitation. Get the client excited about ‘next time.’ Invite her back, while giving her options. Who could say no to an exciting invitation?”

Mickey Svircevic, executive stylist for Farouk systems, stylist, Mane Society Salon & Spa, Woodbridge, Ont.

#29

“We give out five business cards to clients at the end of their service and if someone gives them a compliment on their cut or colour, we ask them to hand out the card. For referring, we’ll give them a free product if that person comes in. Word of mouth is always best and your work speaks for itself.”

Susan Hayward, senior

colourist and ID Artist for L’Oréal Professionnel, Toronto

#30

“Pre-book. I cannot stress enough the importance of pre-booking your clients for their next one or two appointments. Not only does it make the client happy to reserve a day and time that works best for her, it also ensures that your schedule is booked up. Followup phone calls are also a nice added service when a client has undergone a major colour change. It’s a good idea, just to make sure they are adjusting to their new look.”

Karyne McKean, key technical advisor, Joico Canada S

For more great colour tips, go to Salon52.ca.

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:25 PM

PHoTo Hama Sanders HAiR Damien carney coLoR Sue Pemberton

SET

©2011 Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea canada Ltd., Pointe-claire, Qc H9R 5N3

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STRAIGHT UP The industry's next generation of smoothing treatments and the lowdown on the innovative new technologies

By Noelle Stapinsky

t

salon52.ca

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october 11 < salon

model photo: courtesy of aveda, top photo: thinkstock

W

hen the first wave of smoothing products hit the market, they created a sensation— and a whole new segment in the industry.

The debut was not without controversy, though.

Now a second generation of straightening and smoothing treatments has been launched; many of them offer alternative formulas that are either formaldehyde-free or using amounts of formaldehyde at or below Health Canada’s recommended 0.2 per cent.

Although the ingredients and results may vary, the basic fundamentals are the same. If one active ingredient is taken out, another needs to take its place, and each technology needs a mix of ingredients to break down or manipulate the natural bonds in the hair or harden and seal the cuticle in the desired shape— straight, wavy, etc.

Many of the latest smoothing treatments launched in the past year employ alternative ingredients to formaldehyde, including keratin, a thio-base, carbocisteine, cationic ingredients and other protein mixtures (see sidebar on p. 52).

You don’t have to be a chemist to understand the product you’re using and why it works. Did you know that if you request it, manufacturers have to supply ingredient lists and technical information about their products? Educating yourself on the products you’re using will benefit both you, as a stylist, and your clientele.

Here are some of this year’s latest in hair-smoothing treatments.

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Ingredient Brief Ammonium thioglycolate—commonly referred to as thio-based or perm salt— is an ingredient that’s been used for decades in perms and straight perms.

It basically swells the hair, reducing the bonds in the cortex of the hair in order to change the structure of the hair texture.

A variety of keratin-based systems have also hit the market. As a protein, keratin is a structural material that’s naturally found in skin, hair and nails.

According to Doug Schoon, a thirdparty scientific regulatory consultant from California, the use of keratin in smoothing treatments adds cross-links to the outer layer of the hair, making the cuticle harder. When smoothed into place, the hair is then locked down when heat is applied.

Carbocisteine works the same as methalyne glycol, a common chemical used in smoothing systems. The difference is that carbocisteine doesn’t break down or release gas, according to Schoon. “Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and carbocisteine is a naturally occurring amino acid that can be modified.”

And finally, cationic is simply a chemical name for a molecular composition. It has positively charged ions that are attracted to negative ions in the hair, which are the areas of the hair that or damaged or sensitized. Cationic polymers are a raw material often used in shampoo formulations.

Joico September Smooth2011 Cure Launched: With the Thermal Styling Protectant—even if I’m Service Cost: TK allowing the hair to air dry—I mist the hair with a few Launched:A September that most ” Technology: sulfate-free,2011 formaldehyde-free “This is a healthy spritzesregime to tame theistexture.

Service Cost: Varies on salon location effective when all products are used formula using Joico’s KeraShield Complex, an and service synergistically,” says Damien Carney, exclusive blend prices. of reparative keratin and nourishing Technology: A sulfate-free, Joico International creative director.

Brazilian Nut Oil and Tucuma Butter. formaldehyde-free formula using Joico’s “The Leave-In Rescue treatment is Tools: Blow dryer and flat iron.

KeraShield Complex, an exclusive blend critical. It transforms the look and feel Results: Smooth, healthy hair for up to 72 hours. of reparative keratin and nourishing of the hair. With the Thermal Styling Brazilian nut oil and tucuma butter. if I’m allowing the “This is a healthy regime that is most effectiveProtectant—even when Tools: Blow-dryer and flat iron. hair to air dry—I mist the hair with a all products are used synergistically,” says Damien Results: Smooth, healthy hair for up to few spritzes to tame the texture.”

Carney, Title TK. “The Leave-In Rescue treatment 72 hours. is critical. It transforms the look and feel of the hair.

Zerran RealLisse Launched: March 2011 Service Cost: Varies depending on salon location and service prices.

Service Length: 90 minutes Technology: Zerran’s Catalyst (treatment) introduces vegan proteins from wheat, corn and oats to the hair shaft. The heat-activated formula eliminates frizz and reduces unwanted curl and unruly volume. A flat iron developed to Zerran specifications, meeting the 450 degrees F heat standard, is recommended for superior results.

Hair may be washed 24 hours following treatment.

Tools: No masks or scalp balms required. Blow-dryer and flat iron needed.

Results: Hair will have natural body, movement and be responsive to thermal curling. Clients can expect a 30 to 100 per cent reduction

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in curl, depending on the start point. Treatment effects will last from two to four months, depending upon client variables.

“RealLisse uses revolutionary technology based upon vegan proteins and heat to smooth away frizz and curl. This is the first time that a texture-altering treatment has been cleared by dermatological testing for use without gloves,” explains Cindy Van Steelandt, Zerran International marketing director. “There are no harsh chemicals included, so no processing time is needed. This is a completely new way to smooth hair beautifully, safely and naturally.”

salon52.ca

11-09-08 4:18 PM

Aveda Smooth Infusion

Liquid Keratin

Launched: May 2011 Service cost: Average cost of $150 per hour Service length: Three to four hours Technology: This Thio-based cream product and thermal processing system takes about three to four hours. The treatment contains about 74 per cent of naturally derived ingredients with conditioning organic botanicals, and organic ylang ylang oil to eliminate post service aroma.

Tools: Depending on desired texture, a blow-dryer, flat iron and hooded dryer.

Results: Straight, smooth or soft curls for four to six months.

Launched: August 2011 Service Cost: Varies by location and salon service prices.

Service Length: Two to three hours Technology: This system is based on the interconversion of oxidized proteins and amino acids with reduced cisteine to allow for semipermanent straightening and smoothing. It uses hydrolyzed keratin to penetrate the hair cortex, Bio-Restore Complex to repair damaged hair, behentrimonium methosulfate (conditioner) to soften and smooth, and shea butter aminopropyltrimonium chloride to condition the cuticle.

Tools: Flat iron and blow-dryer.

Results: Straight and smooth hair for 10 to 16 weeks.

“This system offers permanent results, while maintaing the integrity of the hair. Stylists can create a wide range of different textures using the most naturally derived ingredients as possible, leaving the hair shiny and smooth,” states Julie Silva, national haircolour manager for Aveda.

“It’s a revolutionary chemistry that delivers a keratin-smoothing treatment that’s formaldehyde-free. It repairs the hair with BioRestore, which restructures and repairs damaged hair from chemical processes and external aggressors,” says Alisa Allice, from Liquid Keratin Inc.

Simply Smooth Launched: August 2011 Service Cost: $250 and up Service Length: Varies depending on hair length and texture.

Technology: Simply Smooth is based on highquality keratin and botanicals. This formula was developed to meet Health Canada requirements of the 0.2 per cent formaldehyde level. Simply Smooth & Straight also offers a thio- and keratin-based product.

Tools: Flat iron and blow-dryer.

Results: Smooth to straight—and anywhere in between—results last from 30 days to 20 weeks, depending on treatment.

“Simply Smooth technology is a high-quality keratin- and botanical-based system that works with the cuticle or cortex of the hair.

And our products are compliant with Health Canada’s regulations,” explains Doreen Guarneri, Simply Smooth co-creator and global creative director.

L’Oréal Professionnel X-tenso Moisturist

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while treating it by using a hybrid technology called Nutri-Cationic. The formula has been enriched with cationic active ingredients; molecules that are capable of smoothing the fibre by specifically targeting weakened areas of the hair with negative loading. It also has emollient agents and softening waxes to boost the hair’s softness, smoothness and shine,” says Colin Ford, national director of education and events for L’Oréal Professionnel. t

Launched: April 2011 Service Cost: About $200 in L’Oréal Professionnel Salons, which includes shampoo, mask and serum for at-home care.

Service Length: One to two-and-a-half hours Technology: L’Oréal Professionnel uses a hybrid technology called Nutri-Cationic—a formula that uses cationic active ingredients, molecules capable of smoothing the hair fibre.

Tools: A blow-dryer and flat iron.

Results: For clients with hard-to-tame, curly or frizz-prone hair, this system delivers smooth, humidity-resistant results, cutting down on a client’s time using a blow-dryer at home. Lasts up to eight weeks.

“Xtenso Moisturist both smoothes the hair

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KeraStraight KS Intensive and KeraStraight Colour Protect Treatments Launched: July 2011 Service Cost: $200 to $400 Service Length: Varies depending on hair length.

Technology: Using low pH proteins and 24-carat gold, this technology includes carbocisteine to break down the bonds in the hair to add protein. This basically forms semi-permanent bridges to the hair’s inner structure. When heat is applied—using the gold as a natural heat conductor—the proteins are bonded together and realigned into the desired new position.

Tools: Flat iron and blow-dryer.

Results: Conditioned, smooth and shiny hair for two to four months.

“Being protein based, KeraStraight can be adapted to give clients and stylists choices. KS Intensive is more than 60 per cent more powerful then KeraStraight’s original KS Complex and gives 80 to 100 per cent straightening and repair on the curliest hair. Colour Protect has been developed to add softness, strength and protection for hair that is more vulnerable, and it works at a lower temperature. We believe with these developments, KeraStraight takes this service to a new level,” says Jez Barnett, KeraStraight M.D.

Keratherapy Advanced Renewal System Launched: July 2011 Service Cost: Varies depending on salon location and salon service pricing.

Service Length: One-and-a-half to two hours Technology: Using Carbocisteine as the active ingredient to break the disulfide bonds of the hair, this formulation uses fruit acids, proteins and an assortment of complex amino acids to achieve smooth results.

Tools: Flat iron and blow-dryer.

Results: Up to three months.

“Advanced Renewal System utilizes fruit acids, proteins and an assortment of complex amino acids. Since our produce does not contain formaldehyde, there is never exposure to this carcinogen when blow-drying or flatironing the hair,” says David Mulhollen, founder and president of Keratherapy.

Dikson Keratin Action (DKA) & DKA Booster Launched: 2010 and 2011 Service cost: $200 to $300 Service Length: DKA – Two to two-and-a-half hours, Booster – One-and-a-half to two hours Technology: This organic bioactive keratin treatment is chemical free. Using Urea as its active ingredient, the formulation maintains the amino acids and proteins in the hair, while smoothing the cuticle and reducing frizz.

Tools: Blow-dryer and flat iron (depending on desired results).

Results: Ideal for any type of hair, the DKA repair troubled areas of the hair and improves strength. The Booster treatment releases the

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elasticity of the hair to loosen waves. These treatments last one to three months.

"I choose the DKA and DKA Booster because it's manufactured by a company dedicated to making professional hair products for more than 60 years. Dikson focuses on the integrity of the hair and the salon professional, and it will not produce any products that may be harmful to the structure of the hair or give off harmful vapors that may be dangerous to the stylist," says Jenne Sofield, national educator for Dikson services North America. S

Ventilation Every salon should have a proper ventilation system.

No matter what services you provide, when products are combined with high heat (such as blow-dryers, flat irons, etc.) vapours are being produced. Installing proper ventilation in your salon protects your fellow stylists and your clients.

salon52.ca

11-09-08 4:18 PM

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Viva Las Vegas NAHA crowns a new set of winners, plus check out trends from the Cosmoprof show floor

wo Canadians took home trophies at this year’s North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHAs), held in Las Vegas at the end of July. Montreal’s Simon Chercuitte won for Contemporary Classic, while Marco Verrelli was honoured with the Salon Design award for Toronto’s Salon M Squared. Canadian stylists were wellrepresented throughout the evening. Canadian finalists appeared in almost every category, while teams headed

by Tony Ricci and Fabio Sementelli created and presented runway shows.

Ricci, who was named NAHA’s Hairstylist of the Year in 2010, and his salon team put together a colourful and imaginative collection called Superheroes’ Wives.

Sementelli, creative director for P&G Salon Professional, led a group of top educators, including Amy and Woody Michleb, for a gothic black-and-white presentation.

Capping the night’s awards was the trophy for this year’s Hairstylist of the Year, which was presented to Chicago’s Eli Mancha. Hosted by fan favourite Tabatha Coffey, the night also included an award for The Girls Next Door star Holly Madison, who won Beautiful Humanitarian for her work with animal rights organizations. Beloved industry legend, Michael O’Rourke, was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award to a standing ovation from the crowd.

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PHOTOS (THIS PAGE) COURTESY OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

t

By Melissa Hill

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:28 PM

Trendspotting The Cosmoprof show is also a part of the Professional Beauty Association’s Beauty Week. It’s where distributors come to scout out new products and launches, and it’s the perfect place to find out what’s hot. Here are five buzzwords from the floor.

hot rods hot rods

Clipless curling irons are putting excitement back into texture. Coming in all different sizes and shapes, it allows stylists to create everything from loose, beachy waves to tight pin curls. There are several manufacturers that have launched the rods, including Hot Tools [see “Toolbox,” p. 34]. Make sure a glove is included–it’s a must-have for keeping fingers from getting fried.

keratin keratin

From smoothing treatments to styling lines promising healthier-looking hair, the k-word was everywhere. For the most part, smoothing is still the name of the game, and if you’re in the market for that type of treatment, there are more options than ever, including new ranges of formaldehyde-free formulas. You can find a roundup of recently launched straightening and smoothing treatments—with and wtihout keratin—in “Straight Up” on p. 51.

nails, nails, nails nails (nails, nails, nails!)

We’ve never seen so many products for nails on a showfloor! The options for creating really cool-looking fingers and toes are abundant. UV-cured and LED-cured soak-off gels and hybrids are offering much larger selections of colour and options. Wraps and tips and other nail special effects make it easy to add multiple colours, textures and designs for any nail artist.

oils oils

The showfloor in Vegas has proven that the industry still hasn’t lost its love for oils, especially the original argan oil. Whether it’s being included as an ingredient in new lines that are launching or as new products for established lines, healthy hair is in, and demand for argan oil is still high. Check out some of the new oil additions in “Oil Spill” on p. 32.

feathers feathers

As in extensions, of course! First modelled on a couple of celebs early this year, including Steven Tyler on American Idol, feathers are in demand. Salons are requesting them, and distributors were looking for them. And everyone was wearing them. Bling for hair is hot, and so is the added revenue in your pocket.

winners’ circle winners’ circle

Master Stylist of the Year Kris Sorbie REDKEN 5th Ave, New York Hairstylist of the Year Eli Mancha Lock & Loaded, Chicago Salon Team of the Year Jackson Ruiz Salon Austin, Texas

Editorial Stylist of the Year Dimitrios Tsioumas Mizu New York, New York salon52.ca

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Student Hairstylist of the Year Giovanna Simington Golden West College of Cosmotology, Huntington Beach, Calif.

Texture Carlos Cintron TIGI, Lewisville, Texas Make-Up Artist of the Year Clarissa Luna Jackson Ruiz Salon, Austin, Texas

Avant Garde Jake Thompson Lunatic Fringe, Salt Lake City

Salon Design Marco Verrelli Salon M Squared, Toronto

Contemporary Classic Simon Chercuitte SACO, Montreal

Salon MBA Karie & Aaron Bennett Atelier, San Jose, Calif.

Fashion Forward Zahir Ziani Red Door Spas, New York

People’s Choice Award – Hairstylist of the Year Charlie Price Antoin du Chez the Spa, Denver

Haircolor Dimitrios Tsioumas Mizu New York, New York

october 11 < salon

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SUPERSTARS

A collection from up-and-coming British stylists shows a moody edge for fall

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howcasing the best of young British hairstyling, the theme of this new collection from the F.A.M.E. Team 2011 was strongly influenced by film noir and the '60s, with a strong, moody edge reminiscent of Jean-Loup Sieff’s powerful black-and-white images. Errol Douglas, mentor and art director for the team, says, “We wanted a look that had some history, yet wasn’t period-looking— keeping the key elements fresh and young, like the team itself.”

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Collection: Film Noir Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2011 (Altin Ismaili, Joseph Ferraro, Leah Walton and Natalia Maxwell), in collaboration with GHD Art direction: Errol Douglas, MBE, and Andrea Stavrou for GHD Makeup: Maddie Austin Styling: Bernard Connolly Photos: Jack Eames S october 11 < salon

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White Hot

Inspiration blooms in U.K. stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s romantic, glamorous collection

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I

“

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nspiration was taken from the rose—the shapes they form from bud to full bloom.

The simplicity and purity of it and its intentions can evoke glamour, sensuality and romanticism,” says stylist Angela Lowery. “Viktor and Rolf also inspired us with their take on the white shirt, which was mixed with lace and silk, and worn big and voluminous.

Some of our hair shapes have the feel of stars like Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot—glamorous, sexy and with it, a modern feel.”

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Hair: Angela Lowery, Y Salon, U.K. Makeup: Julie Pattinson Photos: Montana Lowery

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S

salon52.ca

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Split Personality Stunning images and a sultry vibe mark this award-winning collection

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hot in London, U.K., this new collection from the Matrix team was designed to create hairstyles using cut and colour techniques that are versatile, inspirational and practical. The resulting styles are perfect for anyone, and each look has two sides, making all of them suitable for everyday life and special occasions. For more beautiful images from the collection, go to Salon52.ca. S

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Collection: Dual Voltage Matrix Global Design Team

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Inspired by colours of earth and sky, this collection marries ancient and modern

Wild and Free

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elebrating 10 years of beautiful colour collections, L’Oréal Professionnel has released its fall/winter colour images, Beauté Originelle. It’s a visual discovery of the different facets of a woman, whose beauty is revealed when you delve into her true nature. In addition to these three emblematic images, the company invited 20 hairstylists from around the world to contribute their interpretations to the collection, resulting in 44 visuals that immortalize the original beauty of hair shaded and sculpted in a variety of ways. Go to Salon52.ca to see more photos from the collection. S

Collection: Beauté Originelle, Hair: Valentin Mordacq, Art direction: Pascale Cervoni for 133, Makeup: Lloyd Simmonds, Stylist: Sissy Vian, Photos: Dusan Reljin

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salon52.ca

11-09-07 3:24 PM

Meet Meet the the Family Family KeraStraight, the pioneers of aldehyde free, low pH protein Keratin treatments are proud to introduce you to the latest members of the KeraStraight Family of treatments, Colour Protect Treatment and KS Intensive Treatment.These variations of our hugely popular KS Complex Treatment enable you to offer KeraStraight Treatments to a wider variety of hair types and clients.

KeraStraight Colour Protect Treatment has been designed to cater for clients with very weak and fragile hair, as well as blonde, highly coloured and naturally white hair.

KeraStraight KS Intensive Treatment contains over 60% more straightening power for very resistant, very curly, virgin or Afro Caribbean hair.

KeraStraight, the pioneers of aldehyde free, low pH protein Keratin treatments are proud to introduce you to the ComplexColour Protect Treatment KS Intensive latestColour membersProtect of the KeraStraight FamilyKS of treatments, and KS Intensive Treatment.

Designed for: Designed for: Designed for: These variations of our hugely popular KS Complex Treatment enable you to offer KeraStraight Treatments to a Very weak & fragile hair • Normal Hair • Resistant hair wider•variety of hair types and clients.

• Platinum blonde & white hair • Wavy & Unruly hair • Very Curly hair • HighlyColour coloured & porous hair Damaged hair to cater for clients with•very Virgin hair and fragile hair, as well KeraStraight Protect Treatment has • been designed weak • Developed work at a lower • Afro Caribbean hair as blonde, highly to coloured and naturally white hair. temperature of 180-190°C/355-375°F

KeraStraight KS Intensive Treatment contains over 60% more straightening power for very resistant, very curly, virgin or Afro Caribbean hair.

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Afro Caribbean hair 11-09-07 6:59 PM

Collection: The Crimson Collection Hair: Robyn Saunders, Chesters on Hay, Australia Photos: Otilee Styling and makeup: Robyn Saunders and Otilee

Colour and Contrast

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Reds and purples play a part in taking shades dark for fall

nspired by contrasts in shape and colour, this collection from Australian artist and Goldwell Color Zoom finalist, Robyn Saunders, is strong, playful and passionate. The vibrant red, burnt brunette and dark aubergine palettes create a rich, luxurious feel to the hair thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect for changing seasons. S

salon52.ca

11-09-07 3:22 PM

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11-09-07 6:57 PM

Ethereal Glow

A Toronto stylist creates delicate looks with simplified style

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Collection: Understated Beauty Hair: Irina Lavrega Makeup: Oz Zandiyeh Photos: Helen Tran

he runways of Paris and Milan were the inspiration for these lovely images. Embracing a simple, yet ethereal, approach to styling, the collection showcases the transition from a light, uncomplicated look to a more complex presentation, while they maintain an aspect of purity and celestial symmetry. S

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salon52.ca

11-09-07 3:24 PM

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Hair: Michelle Pargee Makeup: Annabelle Petit Photos: Greg Swales

Weekend in Paris A Canadian stylist takes advantage of a jaunt to Europe to create a timeless collection

D

uring Michelle Pargee’s trip to Paris last year to compete in Goldwell’s International Color Zoom, she and close friend and photographer Greg Swales took advantage of their location to do a photo shoot on the last day. “My inspiration was based on the old movies I watched as a young girl: An American in Paris, Gigi, Breathless and Charade,” says Pargee. “Being there feels surreal, like being on a film set. It’s so perfect and breathtakingly beautiful. I wanted to project some of that beauty into my work.” S

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11-09-07 4:24 PM

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colour

Hits & misses Top stylists and colour experts call out the good, the bad and the ugly of celeb hair in 2011. Of course, beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. By Noelle Stapinsky

Rossa Jurenas

Schwarzkopf Professional educator, platform artist and Essential Looks artist, Tillsonburg, Ont. Everyone’s talking about Jennifer Aniston’s new cut and colour lately, but I don’t see a huge difference. She just always looks really put together. Her hair is healthy and shiny, with great colour placement. It looks like a solid colour but when you see light reflect on it you can see where it’s highlighted. I have to say it’s slight tone-on-tone highlights, lowlights and a base colour.

Mila Kunis’ look is a total package. She’s young and beautiful, and her skin tone and hair colour is a great match. Whoever is doing her hair picks colours that suit her. I believe every colour can look good depending on how you do it, but with the dark eyes and darker skin, the dark hair just suits her to a T.

“Kirstie Alley, bad! Bad hair! I don’t care if she’s bigger or smaller, that blonde hair is not nice. It’s nasty. It’s frizzy, fried and dry, and there’s no shine, which makes it look worse.

She should be dark because that’s her natural hair colour. But if she wanted to keep it lighter, I’d be adding in some more depth, some darker colours—something like a dark base with some highlights. But all over blonde? No.” “And although Katy Perry changes her hair colour a lot—and usually stays dark—I was quite shocked to see her in People Magazine with blonde hair, wearing a Smurfette dress. At first glance, she pulls it off because she’s quirky. But with her dark eyes and eyebrows…it’s not god awful, she’s just more glamorous and sexy with rich colours.”

How do you advise your clients on colour?

Katy Perry as a blonde — hit or miss?

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“I’m always honest with my clients. I have to say, 97 per cent of them, once I’m done talking to them about colour in a consultation, agree with me. I had a client who had black hair that wanted to go blonde. I told her I didn’t feel comfortable doing it, that it wouldn’t look right with her skin tone. She ended up going somewhere else. A day or two later she phoned me crying because her hair was completely damaged.”

photos: keystone press agency

Who’s making you cringe?

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Julio Rodriquez

Matrix master colourist and co-owner of Valentini Hair Design & Spa, Guelph, Ont. Who’s looking good?

“Drew Barrymore’s new red copper colour is absolutely ravishing. Drew has been known to be a true chameleon with her hair colour, but I think red is her strongest shade. She has all the right components—hazel eyes, and peaches and cream skin tone—to make this her best shade.”

Who’s making you cringe?

One celebrity I wish wouldn’t follow the Hollywood bombshell look [trend] is Emma Stone. Every new ingénue and “it” girl eventually goes bombshell blonde, but Emma’s best shades are brunettes. If Emma were my client and wanted to stay blonde, I would warm her up with some level eight lowlights using demi permanent shades of mocha gold and warm neutrals. Anyone can be blonde, so long as the correct level and tone is chosen to complement the client.”

How do you advise your clients on colour?

“There are times that clients will insist on hair colour that’s not suitable for them. The best way to approach this is through a thorough consultation.

Once you explain the reasons why a colour won’t work for them based on their eye colour, skin tone, texture condition and maintenance, a client will appreciate your professional opinion. The worst mistakes stylists can make are promising the impossible or making a client feel stupid.” S

Drew Barrymore— ravishing in red?

Oribe

Celebrity Stylist, New York Who’s looking good?

“Michelle Williams has great colour right now. She has a wonderful short style with a beautiful single-process blonde.

It’s rich, chic and looks great on her.”

Who’s making you cringe?

“Drew Barrymore has red hair now. She’s a beautiful girl no matter how she makes herself over, but I think blonde suits her better. She would look great going back to a golden shade.”

How do you advise your clients on colour?

“Colour can be a funny thing—sometimes what you expect will be bad ends up working. In this type of situation, it’s more about advising than dictating. It’s important to please your client. You can encourage based on your instincts, but at the end of the day it’s her call. Sometimes the most unexpected choices can have their own appeal.”

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Emma Stone — bad to go blonde?

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Hair: Robert Barbosa Makeup: Boriana Karan Photos: Marek Szkudlarek

Two-Faced

Robert Barbosa of Toronto’s Salon Escape talks about his Contessa 22 collection for Ontario Hairstylist of the Year category

A

Vivienne Westwood runway collection, featuring models in moustaches, provided the gem of inspiration for Robert Barbosa’s Contessa collection. Though he created daintier, more feminine moustaches for his models, he paired them with haircuts featuring strong lines, to show off strong women with a feminine side. “The combination of colour, styling and makeup add sex appeal that softens the look,” says Barbosa. “We kept the makeup soft to enhance their natural beauty. It was pushing the envelope a little bit, but it was lots of fun.” S

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Xâ&#x20AC;˘TAME

Find a Distributor at: www.LCN.ca

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11-08-03 7:59 PM

Canadian Hairstylist Adriana Balea, Francesca Salon & Spa, Toronto Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Alina Sulaiman Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Eve Lespouridis, Salon Escape, Toronto Dominic Losacco, The Village Salon, Etobicoke, ON Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory, Halifax Mandy Macfadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, ON Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, QC Eva Molenda, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Cam Patey, Hair Factory, Halifax Victor Ruso, Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Alann Sluser, Salon Montage, Spruce Grove, AB Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, ON Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, ON Canadian Salon Team ADDX Hair Group, Bolton, ON Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Donald Prouxl, Montreal Entrenous, London, ON Francesca Salon & Spa, Toronto Hair Factory, Halifax Kaaz, Montreal JC Salons, Toronto, ON local B, Montreal A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Salon Collage, Etobicoke, ON Salon Escape, Toronto Salon Solis, Toronto Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Supernova the Salon, North Vancouver Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, ON The Village Salon, Etobicoke, ON Elite Master Hairstylist Lana Anderson, Twisted Banana Hair Studios, Sherwood Park, AB Lorena Barron, One Salon, Windsor, ON Barbara Christen, The Main Door Hair Studio, Edmonton Michael Crispel, Earth a Salon by Michel Crispel, Toronto Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Michael DieBold, Adagio Hair Alternatives, Sarnia, ON Nicole Dumelie, Salon 306, Regina

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Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Martyne Léonard, Concept Santé Beauté Vieux St-Eustache, St. Eustache, QC Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, QC Michel Moreau, Tchop Coiffure, Montreal Anna Pacitto, Pure, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Anthony Watson, Exhale Spa & Salon, Bradford, ON Heather Wenman, Studio-H, London, ON Master Colourist Adriana Balea, Francesca Salon & Spa, Toronto Lee Cenaiko, Zebedee’z International Hair Design, Carstairs, AB Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Dana Lyseng, Supernova the Salon, North Vancouver Susannah Morra, Michael’s Hair Body Mind, Mississauga, ON Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Industry Hairdressing and Beauty, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Makeover Colourist Hairstylist Adriana Balea, Francesca Salon & Spa, Toronto Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Joanna Cini, Capucci Salon and Spa, Toronto Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon, North Vancouver Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory, Halifax Cynthia McDonald, Rituals in Hair and Skin, Winnipeg Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Industry Hairdressing and Beauty, Toronto Joe Ruso, Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Alann Sluser, Salon Montage, Spruce Grove, AB Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, ON Amber Turcotte, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, ON Tana Wagner, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Matt Waldron, Salon & Spa Mood by Pure, Montreal Emma Woolliscroft, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, ON

Session Hairstylist Russel Bally, Ego Salon & Spa, Brampton, ON Frédéric Bélanger, Salon J’aime Coiffure, Montreal Jennifer Eveleigh, Especially For You, Paradise, NL Amber George, Verve Hair Lounge, North Vancouver Mandy Macfadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, ON Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Ricardo Perdigão, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Whitney Valle, Salon Inpure, Montreal Texture Hairstylist Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Duyen Huynh, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Jorge Joao, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, ON Dana Lyseng, Supernova the Salon, North Vancouver Mandy Macfadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, ON Cam Patey, Hair Factory, Halifax Victor Ruso, Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Pamela Simmons, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, ON Alann Sluser, Salon Montage, Spruce Grove, AB Men’s Hairstylist Robin Achterberg, Carreiro The Studio, Victoria, BC Marie Chiarot, Salon Rococo, Toronto Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Alina Sulaiman Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair & Well-being, Vancouver Sonya Peter Paul, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Stephanie Schewe, Salon College, Etobicoke, ON Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Avant Garde Palma Anshilevich, The Hair Spot, Toronto Zazoon Huynh, Kaaz, Montreal Jodi Kezar, Salon Solis, Toronto Eve Lespouridis, Salon Escape, Toronto Eva Molenda, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Alann Sluser, Salon Montage, Spruce Grove, AB Kera Spencer, Michael’s Hair Body Mind, Mississauga, ON Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Makeup Artist Alexandre Deslauriers, Freelance, Quebec Jennifer Dionne, Freelance, Montreal Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve, Maple, ON

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2012 SEMI-FINALISTS Nicola Gavins, Freelance, Edmonton Angela Min, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Tanya Roy, Sophia’s Hairdressing Academy, Laval, QC Shannon Sheppard, Salon Verve, Maple, ON Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Pure, Montreal Virginie Vandelac, local B, Montreal Melanie White, Studio-H, London, ON Multicultural Hairstylist Lenny Ferri, Salon Verve, Maple, ON Jorge Joao, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, ON Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Eva Molenda, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto James Ouellette, Hair FX, Winnipeg Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Maddalena Scerbo, Botticelli Salon/Spa, Winnipeg Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, ON Choi-See Yiu, Donald Proulx, Montreal Newcomer Hairstylist Shereen Hussein, Deeva, Kitchener, ON Stephanie Maxcy, Suki’s, Vancouver Thu Ha Phan, Salon Inpure, Montreal Devon Plamondon, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Volodymyr Snytkin, Casa Dante Hair Studio, Halifax Domenic Spataro, Salon Verve, Maple, ON Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Megan Westaff, Carreiro The Studio, Victoria, BC Choi-See Yiu, Donald Proulx, Montreal Dumitru Zidu, Canvas Hair & Nails Salon, Vancouver Student/Apprentice Hairstylist Chrissy Allan, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Noelle Berlingieri, Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Francesco Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Jamie Curtis, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Merita Ferrada, Edward Carriere, Winnipeg Holly Hui, Inspired Hair Design, Winnipeg Amy Middleton, Essentique Spa Salon, Winnipeg Rebecka Pichoch, Salon on 6th, Edmonton Amy Plowman, Industry Hairdressing and Beauty, Toronto Phonesavanh Vilayvanh, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Alberta Hairstylist Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert, AB Wendy Bélanger, Influence Salon, Calgary Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton

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Kailie Ramsdell, Kick Hair and Body, Edmonton Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Alann Sluser, Salon Montage, Spruce Grove, AB Alannah Zilkowsky, Twisted Banana Hair Studios, Sherwood Park, AB Atlantic Hairstylist Shelley Bell, Freedom Hair Inc., Charlottetown, PEI Jennifer Eveleigh, Especially For You, Paradise, NL Robert Stephen Little, Spirit Spa, Halifax Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory, Halifax Cam Patey, Hair Factory, Halifax Volodymyr Snytkin, Casa Dante Hair Studio, Halifax British Columbia Hairstylist James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia and Salons, Langley, BC Christopher Deagle, Key Hair Studio, Vancouver Alina Sulaiman Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair & Well-being, Vancouver Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova the Salon, North Vancouver Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Tana Wagner, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Chelsea Wood, Suki’s, Vancouver Ontario Hairstylist Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Christina Leblanc, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, ON Eve Lespouridis, Salon Escape, Toronto Mandy Macfadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, ON Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, ON Eva Molenda, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Dante Perrone, Industry Hairdressing and Beauty, Toronto Victor Ruso, Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, ON Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa, Oshawa, ON Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, ON Quebec Hairstylist Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal Enrico Compierchio, Enrico Coiffeurs Styliste, Montreal Sara Drolet, Donald Prouxl, Montreal Zazoon Huynh, Kaaz, Montreal Sophia Iannantuono, Sophia’s Hairdressing Academy, Laval, QC Marie-Eve Medza, Mëdz Salon, Verdun, QC Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Josée Renaud, Josée Renaud Coiffure, Quebec Shanti Normandeau Souillére, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-St-Hilaire, QC Eric St-Jean, Lola Luca, Laval, QC

Saskatchewan/Manitoba Hairstylist Alicia Austin, Capelli Salon Studio Inc., Saskatoon Kimberley Carr, Solutions Hair Design, Regina Uyen Huynh, Angles Salon and Spa, Saskatoon Kelsie Kitzul, Chel Salon & Spa, Saskatoon Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Cynthia McDonald, Rituals in Hair and Skin, Winnipeg James Ouellette, Hair FX, Winnipeg Kristina Poturica, Rituals in Hair and Skin, Winnipeg Maddalena Scerbo, Botticelli Salon Spa, Winnipeg Reyn VonDyck, Elan Hair & Esthetics Salon, Winnipeg Salon Interior Capelli Salon Studio, Inc., Saskatoon EvelineCharles Salon Spas Beauty MD Academy, Calgary Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Hills Coiffure et Spa, Verdun, QC Salon Elegance, Ottawa Salon M Squared, Toronto Salon Otazzi, Mississauga, ON Space, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, BC Woody Michleb Hair Salon, Whitby, ON Nail Enhancement Alexandra Chrustel, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Catherine Cote, Candy Nail Bar, Montreal Kali Howden, At Your Fingertips, Kelowna, BC Ashley Ann Mackenzie, Jolie Beauty Bar, Toronto Allison Patterson, Beverly Ashdown Day Spa, Saskatoon Scarlett Scolack, Spasation Sherwood Park, Sherwood Park, AB Robyn Schwartz, Polished & Pampered, Grand Forks, BC Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair and Esthetics, Lloydminster, AB Business Excellence Eccotique, Surrey, BC FRED.hair beauty art, Halifax St. Vital Unisex Hair Salon, Winnipeg Zazou Salon and Spa, North Vancouver, BC Community Service Albert Snow Hair Design Group, Hamilton, ON The Artists by Johnny Cupello Salon & Spa, Newmarket, ON Eccotique, Surrey, BC Salon 247, Brampton, ON Studio 237, Belleville, ON Zazou Salon and Spa, North Vancouver, BC

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profile

Colourful Character A Redken platform artist for the last 10 years and co-owner of l’Académie Avancée at Odyssée salon in Montreal, Catherine Allard is an absolute master at colour.

Her passion for pigments was triggered in high school with a course in chemistry.

By Yasmin Grothé

Q: Why did you choose to become a colourist ?

Q: What are the technical innovations in colour that you find most interesting right now?

A: Blondeicing, Redken’s bleaching system. It’s a lightening formula that’s much quicker and can lighten up to seven levels. It’s also enhanced with Lumisilk, a powerful conditioning technology which maintains the hair at an optimal hydration level. Which means silkier blondes. But since I’m passionate about reds and flamboyant Bycoppers, YasminI also love Rubilane from Redken Color Fusion that maintains the fiery tones of red, even after 20 shampoos.

Grothé

Q: How would you describe your style?

A: People usually describe me as a daring colourist. I like luminosity and the intensity of pigments. I love creating depth and movement with colour. It’s a way for me to make colour ‘move’ on the head, of creating transitions. Right now, I’m enjoying combining different application techniques to create lines and texture with colour and cuts.

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photos: ofredken, redken,opposite oppositepage, page:Gil top? , Gil Perron photos: this this page page courtesy courtesy of Perron

A: I was in art school before, so colour for me is a powerful means of expression, whether on canvas or on hair. In high school, I was a straight-A student in chemistry, and I’m completely fascinated by the chemical side of hair colour. I love all the technical aspects: the charts, the active ingredients and the formulas that achieve the perfect shade. I love sharing this knowledge when I teach.

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It has often been said, “be careful what you wish for, as it just might come true”. After an amazing journey that has spanned more than 20 years, my wish did come true. I have been given the challenge of leading the Schwarzkopf Professional team in the United States.

Q: How can colour help define a cut?

A: The beauty of colour is that it can help highlight a whole section of hair or illuminate a fringe. You can choose what you want to emphasize and where you want to add light or shadows. Colourists are the ones who give a haircut all of its dimension!

Q : What inspires you?

A: Everything I see! I mainly find inspiration in the way light falls on things and how it helps shape outlines. For instance, I go to a lot of dance and music shows, and I just love the way these artists work with light. But I’m also very inspired by what I see on the street: fashion and accessories, and the way they are worn by ordinary people. Being inspired is also a question of perception.

Despite all the wonderful words that many of you have shared, and the lifestyle that Los Angeles offers, my heart does ache. My success was a direct result from all of you, my colleagues, my clients, even my competitors.

You have all contributed to make Canada a leader in the International Hairdressing community. You allowed me into your world, a world that was shaped by my initial experiences with industry legends like Gerd Schwarzkopf, Michael Kluthe and the late Lili Jakel. Programs such as Educational Escapes and the Profile of Excellence created life long bonds, friendships that I cherish to this day. Thank goodness Facebook wasn’t around back then, as we would all have a lot of explaining to do!

Although I physically am no longer with you, our spirit remains strong. The thousands of memories that we created together will carry me until we next meet. I thank you for your trust, belief and commitment. The Canadian team, lead by Marianne Medeiros, is ready to take Schwarzkopf Professional to even greater heights.

I wish you all success, health and happiness.

Q: What’s the biggest challenge you face as a colourist, either in the salon or when you’re teaching?

George Broder General Manager, Schwarzkopf Professional

A: Other than wanting to achieve the most perfect colour, with all its depth and subtleties, I think it has to do with communicating effectively with the client. Understanding her needs without stifling your creativity. Achieving that balance is not impossible if you’re able to convey your vision of the final outcome to the client. When I started out, I would only suggest things—but that was it! I’ve learned to be a bit more persistent because I know clients will love the results if they trust me.

When I’m teaching, it’s another story. But the challenge remains communicating effectively. You have to share your knowledge, your inspiration with the realities of the salon by offering solutions to problems other stylists are facing. The objective here is to touch stylists and see them leave the education session with something more. That’s when I tell myself: 'Mission accomplished!'

Q: Where do you see yourself in five years?

A: This year, I had the honour of seeing my work featured on the cover of The Inspiring World of Redken with the Shapes And Shadows collection. This is Redken’s 2011 International collection, created by a team of seven stylists, and I was lucky enough to be one of them. I love where I am in my life right now. I work in a salon, and I work in education with Redken. I love teaching. It’s a big passion of mine that makes me very proud. So it’s safe to say that I would love to continue teaching, but maybe on a bigger scale, because I love travelling, too! S

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NAILS

Common Nail Issues—Solved!

Learn how to address health problems—big and small—for stronger nails. Your clients will thank you big time. By Marlene Rego

W

hen ravaged nails make an appearance on the manicure table, what’s a nail pro to do? We asked Kristina Saindon, education ambassador for CND, to share her advice on how to remedy six common nail snags, so you can help clients get healthy-looking nails in no time.

3. PEELING

How this can happen: Painful ingrowns are a concern for clients who improperly trim their nails or wear tight-fitting shoes. Watch for nail plates that grow very curved or flat and wide, since people with these growth patterns will be more prone to ingrowns.

Solution: “For years one of my clients struggled with her big toenails becoming ingrown. When she started feeling pain she would cut the corners. I explained to her how important it is to properly trim her toenails and showed her how to do it herself.

Over the years she’s had regular pedicures and has continued to walk pain free,” recalls Saindon. To completely avoid ingrowns, she refers clients to a podiatrist for surgical methods that will fix the problem for good.

How this can happen: If you spot peeling on a client’s nails ask them about exposure to water. Excessive dish washing, for example, can ravage nails. Here’s why: the tiny spaces and voids between the nail’s layers trap moisture and cause the nail to swell and change shape. When this trapped water eventually evaporates, the nail shrinks.

“This repeated expansion and contraction weakens the nail and leads to de-lamination of the nail plate layers, which means nails begin to peel and weaken,” says Saindon.

Solution: Rescue nails with oil! “I recommend CND’s Solar Oil, which is designed to penetrate and buffer against impact by plasticizing the nails,” says Saindon.

She also suggests keeping nails coated either with a thin coat of enamel, gel or polymer to slow down the loss of natural oils. This also acts as a shield, helping to prevent the oldest nail cells (at the free edge of the nail) from peeling. “Those layers of the nail plate are three to four months old and get the greatest abuse through daily wear and tear,” she says.

2. YELLOW NAILS How this can happen: Nails will turn yellow over time from regular coats of polish. The natural nail is made up of keratin proteins and although keratin is strong, it’s also porous and easily absorbs pigment.

Solution: Saindon warns clients to avoid low-quality polishes, since they contain more dyes. A base coat will also help prevent staining. Another tip? Always remove polish with acetone because it dissolves enamel quicker and contains less harmful solvents. Try not to rub the polish (and its pigments) into nails when removing.

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4. RIDGES How this can happen: You may have noticed ridges on your older clients’ nails. As we mature, small narrow ridges appear vertically on the nail plate from the cuticle to the free edge because nail growth slows down.

Solution: Saindon says you should lightly

buff the ridges with a low abrasive file but be careful not to over do it, since this could trigger thinning and cause damage. Also, use a ridge-filling base coat to create a smooth, polish-ready surface.

5. FUNGAL INFECTIONS How this can happen: Gross, but true: walking barefoot in damp public areas may lead to a fungal infection. So can previous injuries, infection to the nail or a weakened immune system. Shoes are also a prime breeding ground for fungus to grow. Fungus eats the keratin in our nail plate, causing it to swell and break apart.

Solution: Besides advising clients to wear flip-flops in the gym shower, leave this one up to a podiatrist.

6. WHITE SPOTS (Pseudoleukonychia) How this can happen When a client goes overboard with nail polish removers, you may notice a white, flaky appearance on the nail’s surface. This indicates the nails’ natural oils and moisture have been zapped.

Solution: Make sure the client knows to use solvents sparingly and choose ones with moisturizing agents. As a final failsafe, Saindon says, “Everyday use of oil will maintain the perfect balance of moisture, reducing whites spots from the nails.” S

PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

1. INGROWN NAILS

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11-09-08 3:30 PM

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esthetics

Makeover the Makeup

Is your client considering a dramatic colour change?

Make sure she's prepared to change up her makeup too, say the pros.

Read on for some colourful tips you can share. By Lauren Ferranti-Ballem The makeup swap: Adding vivid colour to hair will impact whatever colours your client chooses for her face. For redheads, the new hue will draw more colour out of the skin, according to Cheryl Gushue, a Toronto-based makeup artist and Contessa winner, who often works with hairstylists. “Any redness will become more prominent, so advise them to start with a good foundation with sheer coverage and a tinge of yellow to take away the red.” Peach

and apricot blush are classic colours for redheads, but Liz Robertson, a Ford Agency hair and makeup artist, also likes light, bright pink for a freshlooking flush. And both Gushue and Robertson prefer a more subdued lip to keep it from competing with a fiery mane. “I think redheads look great with a pale lip and strong smoky eyes—lip color shouldn’t compete with the hair,” says Gushue.

Blonde to Brunette

Brunette to Blonde

The makeup swap: No need to fade out makeup when you lighten your client’s hair. This is an opportunity to play with bolder shades, Robertson says, which will stand out more against a neutral mane.

Look at bold blonde Gwen Stefani, with her signature fiery lip and always-defined eyes.

“It depends on the kind of person your client

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is—bold shades call for confidence.” Blondes should also pay special attention to their skin tone. “Because fair hair can quickly wash them out, the best way to liven up the face is a great self-tanner and bronzer combined with a fresh rosy or coral shade of blush— and lots of it,” says Gushue.

The makeup swap: If your client has chosen to go from light to dark, recommend that she takes the same cues with her makeup palette. Fair lashes can use a boost. Black mascara and matching eyeliner will always help eyes pop, Robertson says.

“For a softer look, tell them to opt for a brown liner, but stick with black for the most definition on eyelashes.”

Gushue cautions that as a brunette, skin tones may tend to lean toward cooler shades, so most pinks, silvery metallics or plums can work well, but avoid orange or peachy shades.

“Another great classic look on a brunette with fair skin is a beautiful, cool-toned red lip. It’s so Hollywood,” says Gushue. S

photos clockwise: photo: doug mcmillan, makeup: cheryl gushue, photo: godfrey leung, makeup: cheryl gushue, photo: entrant contessa 22, hair and makeup: fred connors, photo: marvin moore

Fiery Red

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EvelineCharles Salon & Spa

5 1. The waiting area is situated in the thick of the action, exposing clients to the variety of services offered. Clients wait on comfortable leather couches under glam chandeliers, creating the feel of an urban beauty destination.

The flagship location of the well-known beauty brand gets a fresh new look

W

By Melissa Hill

hen EvelineCharles Salons & Spas launched a new branding strategy for the company, redesigning and remodelling their West Edmonton Mall location was at the top of the to-do list. The flagship store generates the highest revenue among all nine of the brand’s locations. “Throughout the remodel, we considered every aspect of the EvelineCharles brand and the image we wanted to convey, says brand co-ordinator Suzy Kenny. “Historically, our salon and spa environments have been inspired by destination spas with Asian fusion-style decor. Now, from the moment a guest walks through the 10-foot glass and chrome doors into our remodelled store, the interior reflects our motto—‘Results driven beauty’— through high technology, reflective surfaces, textured walls and modern lighting. Our chic decor communicates our focus on quality and fashion.” S The Specs Location: West Edmonton Mall, Edmonton Designers: Eveline Charles and Lina Heath Staff: 60 Space: 7,500-sq.-ft.

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Details

• 26 styling stations • 12 pedicure chairs massage • 7treatment rooms fully equipped • 2changing rooms for

Brands EvelineCharles Retail and Professional products

Website www.evelinecharles.com

2. These pedicure lounges, integrated into the flow of the salon floor, are similar in style to restaurant booths and are the perfect accommodation for groups of women, offering privacy in a social setting. Lowhanging chandeliers, inspired by the Dolce & Gabbana boutique in Las Vegas, are a great finishing touch.

3. Straying from clinical-looking esthetic rooms, the treatment rooms here resemble boutique hotel rooms—modern and inviting.

Reflective mosaic-tiled walls have a slick, wet-looking finish, giving the calming illusion of trickling water.

4. The new retail area features backlit shelves to entice browsing, while clearly separating the various product lines for skin, body and hair care. Backlit signage promotes the latest collections created by the artistic team, while flat-screen TVs show current promotions and current fashion trends.

5. The walls in the salon and spa are covered in commercial-grade wall vinyl from Germany. Its embossed texture and bold pattern in black and charcoal make the area inviting to both men and women.

men and women with lockers and showers

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❏ PleaseName send____________________________________ me periodic offers from related companies Business Address ___________________________Suite _________ SECTION B City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________ How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School Phone _________________________________________ ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise Email__________________________________________ ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based Website ________________________________________ ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies # of Employees SECTION B ____

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American Crew Precision Blend pg 47.............800-387-7980 Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 94.................888-737-6268......................... www.micropigmentationcentre.com China Glaze Crackle pg 87................................800-621-9585......................... www.chinaglaze.com China Glaze Metro pg 71...................................800-621-9585......................... www.chinaglaze.com Clean+Easy Wax pg 107....................................800-621-9585......................... www.cleanandeasyspa.com Coatings Brisa pg 23..........................................877-CND-NAIL....................... www.cnd.com Contessa 23 pgs 42-43......................................800-720-6665......................... www.salon52.ca Dikson pg 63......................................................800-334-8240......................... www.dikson.ca elevatemagazine.com pg 103............................800-720-6665......................... www.elevatemagazine.com Essie Raise Awareness pg 55...........................800-232-1155......................... www.essie.com Estro pg 50 FHI Heat Kore pg 39..........................................877-344-4328......................... www.fhiheat.com George Barber & Beauty Supplies pg 103........866-594-4692......................... www.georgebarberandbeauty.com Global Best Beauty pg 85...................................866-468-2205......................... www.globalbestbeauty.com Hot Tools Keratin Straightening Iron pg 97......800-487-8432......................... www.hottools.com Humber College The Business School pg 91.................................................. www.business.humber.ca i.Color Brights Gemstone Collection pg 25......800-267-4676......................... www.isohair.com International Beauty Services pg 102...............800-642-3818 Joico K-Pak Revitaluxe pg 108.........................877-426-2590......................... www.joico.com Joico Smooth Cure pg 49..................................877-426-2590......................... www.joico.com Joico Structure pgs 31, 33, 35..........................877-426-2590......................... www.joico.com Joico Structure pgs 36-37................................877-426-2590......................... www.joico.com KeraStraight pg 67............................................................................................ www.kerastraight.ca Keratherapy Advanced Renewal pg 73.............877-267-9111......................... www.keratherapy.com Kevin.Murphy pg 28.......................................................................................... www.kevinmurphy.com.au L’Oréal Professionnel SocialLights pg 2-3.......800-361-8017......................... www.lorealprofessionnel.ca LCN Bond pg 69................................................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca LCN X-Tame pg 79............................................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca Matrix SoColor pgs 8-9.....................................888-935-1885......................... www.matrix.com Mixed Chicks Haircare pg 100...........................877-888-0480......................... www.mixedchicks.net OPI Pink of Hearts pg 21...................................800-341-9999......................... www.opi.com Pivot Point pg 95................................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpoint.ca Redken All Soft Renovation pgs 12-13.............866-973-3536......................... www.redken.ca Revlon Professional Stylemasters pg 27..........800-387-7980 Rowenta Beauty Versa pgs 16-17.................................................................... www.rowentabeauty.ca Salon Magazine App pgs 74-75.........................800-720-6665......................... www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf Bonacure pgs 10-11....................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity pgs 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6-7....800-41-WELLA....................... www.wellausa.com Credits from page 74-75: Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, AB, Makeup: Sevan Tatoulian, Photo: Ara Sassoonian Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal, QC, Makeup: Jessica Manzo & Julie Chabot, Photos: Carl Lessard Gian Paolo Colombo, Hairafter Salon & Spa, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon, SK, Makeup: Uyen Huynh, Photos: Gina Yesnik Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Boriana Karan, Photos: Marek Szkudlarek Sylvain Bellerose, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, BC, Makeup: Jon Hennessey, Photos: Philip Jarmain

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13292 Cosmetics Ad - Salon:Layout 1 9/1/11 2:31 PM Page 1 13292 Cosmetics Ad - Salon:Layout 1 9/1/11 2:31 PM Page 1

Diploma programs that combine beauty and business.

COSMETIC MANAGEMENT & ESTHETICIAN/ SPA MANAGEMENT

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Promotion

FIRST CLASS TOP NOTCH ACADEMIES For those considering a career in the professional beauty industry, choosing the right school is paramount to their success. Some of the key elements to consider are: that the program takes place in a state-of-the-art facility, the curriculum is current and relevant, the instructors are knowledgeable and experienced industry professionals, as well as using a reputable product line.

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Check to see that the program or school offers a full range of courses. There are many aspects of salon life that should be covered, such as business management, understanding retailing, solid hair cutting methods and colour principles. Remember the top salons associate themselves with the best schools and in turn get the most successful graduates.

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At the Aveda Institute Canada, learn cutting-edge curriculum within an environmentally responsible culture and gain valuable salon experience from highly trained educators. Within Aveda’s global network of 7,000+ salons/spas and our 95% jobplacement rate, the professional opportunities are endless. Call 1-877-90-AVEDA to book a tour.

AVEDAINSTITUTE.CA; Find us in Toronto, Calgary and Vancouver.

Metro’s advanced educational facility is recognized as one of the most solid foundations in educating salon professionals. Our space incorporates seminars for the stylist, beauty and wellness professional, salon owners and managers. Through conceptual and technical trainings we have the ability to offer new and innovative ways to help partner with our clients to ensure quality of business. {Be}inspired www.metrobeauty.ca 315 New Huntington Rd. 905.850.7131

Ignite your creative passion.

Donato Academy of Hairstyling and Aesthetics, led by visionary John Donato, offers progressive, fashion-forward full- and part-time hairstyling programs encompassing theory and practical elements.

Inherit sound skills and business savvy, essential to becoming a successful hairstylist. Donato Academy, a private career college, prepares you for your future career.

416.252.8999; 3253 Lake Shore Blvd. W., Toronto www.donatoacademy.com

Art & Technique Academy of Hairstyling and Esthetics offers diploma programs in less than one year. Apply your natural talents and become a leading professional. Our success is based on industry-standard training; modern curriculum; instructorled classes with hands-on training and valuable salon experience.

“DO WHAT YOU LOVE” Personalized time schedule and affordable payment plans.

REGISTER TODAY! *Brampton *Oshawa *Belleville *Cornwall www.artandtechnique.com

Whether you need to brush up on fundamentals or learn the latest looks, at Suki’s Academy we have the advanced cutting or colour course for you. Each is designed to meet your specific needs and experience level. Our class size is kept small to ensure an unsurpassed educational experience.

Call 604.738.0519 today. www.sukis.com

BECOME A PROFESSIONAL

Follow your passion for beauty at Gina’s College. With more than 30 years’ experience graduating top beauty professionals, we know what it takes to succeed in this industry –state-of-the-art facilities and equipment, passionate instructors and an industry-leading curriculum.

Our new hairstyling program in Waterloo, Ont. is being called the region’s best.

Join our legacy of success today! Waterloo 519.886.2998; Mississauga 905.602.8891; Ottawa 613.789.7875 www.ginascollege.com

11-09-08 3:37 PM

Promotion

HIGHER LEARNING It doesn’t matter if you’re a year out of cosmetology school or twenty years—continuing your education is always a good idea.

During your first years in the industry, classes help you build a strong foundation and hone your basic skills. Courses focusing on business can also help you acquire and grow a client base as well as strengthen your retailing—all vitally important if you want to make a good living at doing what you love. Plus, it’ll help you keep up on the latest trends and teach you how to adapt the classics for today’s clients.

For stylists who have mastered the basics, continuing education means you never stop growing and challenging yourself. It helps you keep your styles fresh for clients and refine your mastery of your craft. When you’re ready to up your game, taking classes will keep you inspired, thinking outside the box, ready to push your own boundaries and most of all, be a better hairstylist.

Permanent Makeup Training Academy – November Special Training Events Event #1 Training Course Nov 6th–11th The six day training course is followed by the much heralded Color through the Skin ® training course, an advanced color theory & advanced areola workshop, held only once per year. This 6 day class enables a new student to attend both events.

• Four instructors to eight students • Discounted student product packages • Models supplied by the school • Preferred rates at partnership hotels

Event #2 Color through the Skin® Nov 14th For experienced permanent makeup technicians only Comprehensive interactive color training course Color correction & blending Controlling outcome on diverse skin types The difference between knowing color versus simply working with it

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Only available to permanent makeup & tattoo professionals Certification training course required (1 day) Product contains its own scar inhibitor Unlike lasers, it is effective on all colours Quick & safe

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11-09-08 3:33 PM

MC College is Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leader in hair and esthetics training.

With campuses across Western Canada, MC College uses education by Pivot Point, which provides the educational structure to develop true hair designers.

Our vision is to elevate the industry one graduate at a time.

At MC College your potential is our passion. www.mcollege.ca

EvelineCharles Academy, with locations in Edmonton, Vancouver & Calgary, incorporates state-of-the-art technology and training techniques. The academy is ITEC Certified and is the only Sassoon Academy Connection School in Canada. ECâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enhanced curriculum has a strong business focus, incorporating NAIT Business Management Certificate Courses.

Ask about the 3-Day Schedule and International Trip. Call 1.877.709.5672 www.ECacademy.com

George Brown College offers training in esthetics, makeup and nails. The Yorkville School of Makeup & Esthetics features specialized studios and instruction from active industry professionals.

With day, evening and weekend classes, as well as payment on a course-by-course basis, pursue your dream career on your time and at your pace. Visit www.yorkvilleschool.com, call 416-415-5000 ext. 4070 or email info@yorkvilleschool.com.

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SCOOP

four questions with... modern beauty supplies In 1966, Mike Jomaa, the founder and CEO of Modern Beauty Supplies, came to Canada from Lebanon, and in 1986 began selling cosmetic products in the Calgary area. Over the next 25 years, the company, which is still family-owned, grew from a basement operation to a multimillion-dollar business with a brand-new, state-of-the-art headquarters opening in early 2012.

Salon: What are you most proud of looking back?

MJ: We’re amazed at how much our company has evolved. We’ve achieved many milestones that we are extremely proud of, one of them being the relationships we have with our customers. Modern’s success is based on the satisfaction of those whom we service and the personal partnerships we’ve developed over time.

S: How has the industry changed?

MJ: Over the past 25 years, a diverse range of products and services has been introduced to the industry. An example of this has been the growing men’s segment, with more of a socially acceptable focus on beauty. People are recognizing the importance of professional services and turning to their salon for transformations. All in all, hair now looks

Total Look Crowns a Winner After three-and-a-half hours of intense competition, a team from Zig Zag Studio, in Bedford, N.S., was chosen as champion in the Salon Creative Team Total Look Competition.

Congratulations to team members Tammy Jean, Katherine Hanlon, Ashley Covey and salon co-owner Brenda Taylor! Held at the Carnival of Beauty in Halifax, the competition required salon teams to select a model and do a complete makeover, including cut, colour, styling, makeup and wardrobe. A record 1,400 attended Carnival of Beauty, and the Saturday night competition had more than 500 paid spectators.

Save the Date Don’t miss Schwarzkopf Professional’s Hairapalooza 2011!

The annual event is all about cutting-edge hair and fashion, and includes the SKP Essential Looks 2: 2011 trend release, plus the New Talent and Professional competitions. The event, which is also held in Montreal and Winnipeg, will take place

better, feels better and is in better condition.

in Toronto on Sunday, October 23. Contact your sales rep or

S: What are your next goals?

Compete in Calgary

MJ: We’re focused on the expansion into other markets in order to service the endless demand for what’s new and hot. This growth has resulted in outgrowing our current Calgary location and relocating our headquarters. This has been imperative to assist us in exceeding our customers’ demands. Our new automated warehouse system will ensure that every order is accurate and efficient.

S: How are you celebrating your 25th?

MJ: We’re hosting Cancun Symposium 2011 in November, where we’re expecting more than 400 attendees. It is a time for us to celebrate our relationships with our customers. We have some of the industry’s best artists joining us from ISO, Farouk, Schwarzkopf and TIGI, in addition to Lauren Gartland from Inspiring Champions.

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Venus Beauty Supplies at 905-624-0470 for more.

Don’t miss your chance to enter Calgary’s 5th Annual Ordinary to Extraordinary Make Over Competition, held October 2 during the Calgary ABA show. The winner will have the chance to appear on a taping of CityLine in Toronto and receive $1,000 from the ABA. Go to www.abacanada.com for full competition rules and details. Spectators may also attend the competition and observe the work and makeover results.

2011-2012 Buyer’s Guide Updates PEI Beauty Supply 1543 Colville Rd., RR3, Cornwall P.E.I. C0A 1H0 ph. 902-675-2200, 800-794-1449 fx. 902-675-2506 Brands/Products: Schwarzkopf Professional, Naturelle, Arco, Lamaur, Tosca, Dannyco, Paul Brown, Nucleic-A, Top Model Cosmetics, Janssen Skin Care

salon52.ca

11-09-08 5:18 PM

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11-09-07 6:54 PM 8/30/11 4:03 PM

EVENTS

John Paul Mitchell Systems’ The Gathering Who: Approximately 3,500 stylists, distributors and students attended the twoday event.

What: The official launch of MITCH—JPMS’ new men’s line—and general sessions and workshops led by Robert Cromeans, Scott Cole, Linda Yodice, Stephanie Kocielski, Taskashi Kitamura and the dean of Paul Mitchell Schools, Winn Claybaugh.

When & Where: July 17 to 19 at The Aria Hotel in Las Vegas.

Highlights: John Paul DeJoria parachuted into the audience to introduce MITCH, the new men’s line.

Soundbite: “Male consumers worldwide spend $61.3 billion annually. The men’s category is the fastest-growing segment in our industry. Sales from men’s grooming products grew nearly 70 percent in the last five years.”

– John Paul DeJoria, co-owner and co-founder, JPMS

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Quantum Goes to Kenya Why: A United Nation’s World Food Programme school visit and nine-day safari through Kenya for the winners of Quantum brand Evolve’s Fill the Cup fundraiser. Throughout the campaign, Evolve donated funds equivalent to filling 44,000 cups for hungry children.

Who: Winner Maryse Benjamin from Vision Coiffure in Iberville, Que., brought her husband, Alain Herbert, and Star Bédard’s Pierre Synnott brought friend and fellow rep, Serge Domingue. Marketing manager Jill Sanderson, from Pidea Canada, also travelled with the group.

What: The group visited a school outside Nairobi, Kenya, with 450 students, most of whom are orphans and HIV-positive. The meal they receive at school is their only meal of the day for most of them. The delegates presented the school with books and toys that teachers can use as incentives for doing well in class.

For video footage and more photos from the trip, go to Salon52.ca.

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agazine 07/07

7/29/11

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EVENTS

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Cabinet Salon Celebrates Second Anniversary

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Who & What: Alex MacDonald and Emma Rose, owners of The Cabinet Salon celebrate two successful years of business with friends, clients and colleagues.

When & Where: August 6 at their Queen Street West location in Toronto.

Highlights: Guests could enter a draw for free Bumble & Bumble products and services. Visitors dropped in throughout the afternoon affair to congratulate the owners, while enjoying the classic salon ambiance and the lovely birds’ eye view of Toronto’s trendy fashion district.

Photo coutesy L’Oréal Professionnel

L’Oréal Professionnel • PureOlogy Kevin Murphy • Cadiveu • Alterna • Tressa Lakme • SpaRitual • OPI • Babe • FHI Heat Ego • Kasho • Dannyco

INTERNATIONAL

BEAUTY SERVICES Giving Salons The Best in Education & Service SASKATCHEWAN ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon Edmonton (306) 343-3398 (780) 454-3388

MANITOBA 1644 St James St. Winnipeg (204) 783-8878

11 Stores to Serve You

Order Desk 1-800-642-3818 102

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Dermalogica’s New Treatment Room Who: Dermalogica skin-care professionals and international beauty expert Diana Carreiro.

What: Media was invited to the Up Close and Personal event, to get a sneak peak at a new treatment room and a new Age Smart product launch, check out the company’s FITE program’s international impact to-date and get makeup tips from Carreiro.

When & Where: August 2011 at Dermalogica’s Toronto training centre.

Highlights: The new treatment room will be for media and Dermalogica guests to experience new treatments to better communicate new concepts and Face Mapping techniques. salon52.ca

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OCTOBER 2011 ABA CALGARY

October 2–3 Calgary Stampede Park Calgary Info: abacanada.com SALON INTERNATIONAL

October 15–17 ExCel London London, England Info: salonexhibitions.co.uk/ COLOR ZOOM

October 15–18 Miami Beach Convention Center Miami Beach, Fla. Info: colorzoom11.com ABA MONCTON

October 23–24 Coliseum & Agrena Complex Moncton, N.B. Info: abacanada.com PREMIERE BEAUTY CLASSIC

October 23–24 Columbus, Ohio Info: premiereshows.com

GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor

CONTESSAS

TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596

October 30th Sheraton Centre Toronto Info: salon52.ca

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Educational programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

WELLA INTERNATIONAL TREND VISION

October 30th New York Info: wellausa.com

HAIR CLASSES Diana

eak ck out p tips

uests Face

AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988

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NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997 S

Free Beauty News!

Want the inside scoop on cosmetic enhancement, beauty tips and contests?

Get Elevate Magazine’s e-newsletter sent straight to your inbox for the latest: anti-aging secrets cosmetic befores+afters must-have beauty products exclusive giveaways doctor directories

you’ll be the first to know!

sigN up Now!

Visit elevatemagazine.com

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Marketplace YOUR GUIDE TO PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

FOR PROFESSIONAL SALONS

Create the Difference

Natural Silk Therapy Black Caviar Collection For further inquires on current distribution: Head Office (Canada): phone: 905.482.4399 • fax: 905.856.0901 www.monplatin.com • maycosmetics@yahoo.ca 104

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salon52.ca

11-09-07 6:53 PM

LaRGeST SeLeCTiOn OF BEAUTY & BARBER CHAIRS www.spider-barberchairs.com

THERE’S A NEW DISTRIBUTOR IN TOWN

• Large Selection of Barber, Styling, Dryer & Shampoo Chairs • Original Designs Canadian Made

905-660-3446 • 1-877-SPIDERS • www.spider-barberchairs.com 50 Ritin Lane #6, Concord, ON L4K 4C9 BarBer chairs now availaBle with spider electrical Base!

Our “Beauty All” program offers modern, cost effective and flexible products, plus customized solutions, and concepts suiting each individual & business needs.

Insurance with the highest liability limits, the lowest deductible and the most affordable premiums.

Call today for a no obligation Insurance Review & Quotation.

Nacora Insurance Brokers Ltd. Phone: (905) 507-1551 Fax: (905) 507-2882 Toll Free: 1-800-761-4938 Email:info.canada@nacora.com Website: www.nacora.com

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 20 Issue 13 salon52.ca

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WHOLESALE QUALITY AT THE LOWEST PRICES

www.isalonpro.com

A GREAT HEAD FOR BUSINESS

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abantu.com 1.800.615.9899

It all adds up to great products and great deals for salons, stylists and educators who’ve signed up for Abantu’s wholesale pricing check us out here october 11 < salon

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11-09-08 10:32 AM

LAST WORD

Focus for Success

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don’t know about you, but I love books. The world of knowledge a good book holds between its two covers is like the world of knowledge a person holds between his or her two ears — except that you can dip into it whenever you choose.

I was browsing my bookshelf recently, and I came across a couple of books that have much to offer anyone already wisely thinking ahead to maximizing his or her merchandising and retailing for the upcoming holiday season.

One is Napoleon Hill’s Succeed and Grow Rich Through Persuasion and the other is the intriguingly titled How to Make People Like You in 90 Seconds or Less, by Nicholas Boothman. Napoleon Hill, of course, was one of America's foremost success and motivation authors. He’s the chap who wrote Think and Grow Rich. And you may not know the name Nicholas Boothman, but this Englishman was a successful fashion and advertising photographer who became a leading expert in face-to-face communication, giving seminars and talks worldwide.

Obviously, if you want to see some good sales figures in the holiday season, your ability to persuade is crucial. So let’s start by seeing what Napoleon Hill has to say about the persuasive personality. Hint: it has nothing to do with being pushy or manipulative.

To begin with, Hill says that your personality, more than anything else, decides whether people like or dislike you. And people far prefer to do business with those they like and trust. Here’s a summary of what he advises:

• Smile when speaking, and be tactful, sincere, fair, thoughtful, tolerant and patient.

• Don’t interrupt when someone else is speaking.

• Use “you” more than “I.” • Develop your sense of humour—it helps you relax and remain

rightly points out to anyone promoting a product or service that “before you promote anything you must first be able to promote yourself.” And promoting yourself revolves, once again, around paying close attention to the person you’re addressing.

For example, Boothman advises using a very simple question, “What’s most important to you about…” that we can use in a consultation. “What’s most important to you about your hair?” The answer, if you really hear it, will not only tell you how to have a satisfied and happy client, but also what products will help your client achieve what’s important to him or her.

Then there’s your body language. Open body language that silently but effectively conveys your willingness, enthusiasm and approval includes open hands, uncrossed arms, a slight movement or lean toward the other person, standing with hands on hips and feet apart and even an open coat or jacket. The idea is to literally open your heart to the other person.

Add to this making eye contact and making sure to smile while you say hello and give your name, and you’re well on the way to establishing a rapport with a client that will enrich not just your cash register, but both of your lives. S

look for the good in others.

• Take a genuine interest in the person before you and what will benefit his or her well-being.

Boothman’s book is subtitled The Magic of Instant Rapport. He quite

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Our dear friend and industry legend, John Steinberg, of John Steinberg & Associates passed away on August 31 after a battle with cancer. He wrote this column for more than 10 years and his wit and words of wisdom will be sorely missed.

top photo: thinkstock

flexible in trying circumstances.

• Never use profanity.

• It’s more important to be an attentive listener than a good speaker.

• To be effective when you speak, know what you’re talking about.

• People can sense what you’re thinking about them, so always

salon52.ca

11-09-08 3:32 PM

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