Salon Magazine, October 2012 by Salon Communications Inc.

The

Answers to your toughest colour Qs, new shades and more

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schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential looks collection

octoBEr.12

38 42

hautE shadEs of fall

Bright pops of colour, a more subtle ombre and rich shades are leading the way this season

Your toughEst colour quEstions answErEd!

Industry educators share solutions to your colour conundrums

BEautY in thE dEsErt

PBA's annual Beauty Week packs in the education and inspiration—with a touch of Vegas glamour

salon > october 12

collEctions

The latest styles from SKP Essential Looks, Freda Rossidis, Alexandra Kontos, Mana Dave, Pamela Anderson, Tessa Suderman, Odile Gilbert for L'Oréal Professionnel and Marc Anthony Hair

contEssa 24 sEMi-finalists The list is revealed for this year's top talent in the industry. Find out who made the cut!

The

Answers to your toughest colour Qs, new shades and more

COLOUR Issue Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

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PLUS: Contessa 24 semi-finalists

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october 12 $5 salonmagazine.ca

12-09-05 1:15 PM

hair: Mana dave, Blaze, auckland, new Zealand Makeup: simone Brooke styling: rebecca flavell Photo: Jessica sim

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COLOR AT THE SPEED OF LIGHT

A service only your salon can deliver!

Iconic OPI Shades Shine-Intense Lasts for Weeks Cures in 30 Seconds

MODEL IS WEARING GELCOLOR BY OPI DEUTSCH YOU WANT ME BABY? ÂŠ2012 OPI Products Inc. Call 800.341.9999 or visit opi.com

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REGULARS 18

EDITOR’S LETTER

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

Color Room Salon and Day Spa, Dyer, Ind. 16

salon > soctober 12

This month on SalonMagazine.ca

HAIRLINES Let's Be Transparent, p. 25; Shine On, p. 26; Teaming Up for Women, p. 26; Sustainable Beauty, p. 26; Canadians to Represent at ITVA, p. 27; Trendsetting Shades for Fall, p. 27; Smooth Operator, p. 27; Nouveau Riche, p. 28; Pure and Precious, p. 28; A Top Victory, p. 30; A Queenly Thumbs Up, p. 30; Changemaking Cosmetics, p. 30; Toolbox: Curl Control, p. 32; Next Gen Colour Care, p. 32; Business: A Holiday Attack Plan, p. 34; Shelf Life, p. 36

CONTESSA GALLERY John Jen Hoe Chong shares the inpsiration behind his team's Salon Team 2012 finalist collection

PROFILE

COLOUR

NAILS

ESTHETICS

Frank Bruno shares the origins of Hairapalooza

Keeping budget-conscious clients in your chair

Industry experts talk three new innovations in nail design

How two salons are succeeding with express services

INTERIORS Taking a look at a new colour-only salon in Toronto

SCOOP

EVENTS

LAST LOOK

salonmagazine.ca

IT’S TIME: BE PART OF THE NEXT GENERATION OF HAIRCOLOR AFTER ONLY FOUR MONTHS, OVER 60,000 STYLISTS ACROSS NORTH AMERICA ARE USING CHROMATICS IN THEIR SALONS. FIND OUT WHY THEY ARE PART OF IT! “I did Chromatics Color on a client who had 100% white hair. The result was so beautiful and the client found the no-odor experience very pleasant.” Karen Weir, Salon 56 Newfoundland

“I used Chromatics as a toner after doing a color correction, and the hair was so soft and manageable! Even after using a lightener with 40 volume, the hair felt so much stronger!” Daniella Pacheco, Forever Young Hair Studio Day Spa Ontario “We've been coloring up a storm with Chromatics since we introduced it in our salon – and we LOVE it!!! The clients are impressed with the stunning high-shine results. We're hooked!”

WATCH THIS VIDEO AND DISCOVER THE HAIRCOLOR THAT LEAVES YOUR HAIR

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salon > october 12

Melissa Hill Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

ne of my favourite things about this job is the conversations I get to have with people in the industry. Nearly every story in every issue is the result of a chat that one of us had with a stylist, an owner or an executive at an event or through a phone call or email. There are more great stories out there, of people in the beauty industry doing interesting things, than we can even hope to cover each month—but we try! A perfect example is this. I met a salon owner named Rob Rutledge at Goldwell’s Hairvolution in Niagara Falls, Ont., recently. During the course of chatting, I found out Rob was going to be receiving a Queen’s Jubilee medal soon, after being nominated for his community service work. After the event, I followed up and heard more about the work Rob and his salon, Salon 247 in Brampton, Ont., does—specifically the founding of the Lucas Foundation, which funnels much-needed funds directly to families of children with cancer. It started as a grassroots mission to raise money for one family and in the first year raised $14,000. I don’t know another industry that gives back as much, as openly and as generously as hairstylists! Another conversation I had this month inspired me personally— and a little superficially! There’s nothing like interviewing dozens of colourists and educators, and asking them questions about colour trends and techniques, to decide that my own shade might need a boost. Thanks to Crystal Brown, colour guru at Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton, for her inspiring chat about reds, “brondes” and brights. You can read her take, as well as those of many other top colourists, on fall/winter trends on p. 38. And if you have a story, please share!

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Melissa@salonmagazine.ca.

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s a lo n m a ga z i n e . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@salonmagazine.ca group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@salonmagazine.ca Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt Editor

Valerie Lam > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | valerie@salonmagazine.ca onlinE Editor

Jillian Wood > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | jillian@salonmagazine.ca dEsignEr

Stephanie MacDonald > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | stephanie@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt to thE chAirmAn

Pam Fulford copy Editor

A Competitive Spirit

’ve been hearing a lot about competitions lately. The most recent, of course, being the Olympics. I saw one interesting interview with Jon Montgomery, a skeleton gold medalist, about winning. He was asked, essentially, how much does it really mean when the games are over? Do Canadian Olympians really get good value from their wins? Montgomery said a gold medal can mean absolutely nothing—just a lump of metal you put in your drawer—if you choose to do nothing. Or it can mean a lot, if you choose to use it as a platform to do more. In the September issue of Azure, a design and architecture magazine, there was a story on British architect John Pawson, who recently won an award for design from the London Design Museum. He said, “I don’t do many competitions but (someone) was pressing me and once I entered, I wanted to give it my best shot. I was surprised by how excited the people in my office became, and how it fostered team spirit. “ People compete for many different reasons and all their perspectives are valid. And many are heart warming. Such as Michelle Pargee, owner of Milica SalonSpa and a Contessa winner in 2010 and 2011. Hers was the third story I’ve heard recently about competing. She shared with me a story the Langley Times did, talking about Michelle’s journey and how winning a Contessa was instrumental in changing her life. It’s fantastic that after a 30-year career she has more passion than ever for her craft. Truly inspiring are the only words I can use to describe Michelle. Three different people, three different walks of life, where competition has made an impact on their life. Competition can be exhilarating, tough, sometimes disappointing, but most say the experience is worth it. It’s about putting yourself out there, pushing your own boundaries. Without risk, there’s no reward. And the reward can vary—whether it’s personal, good for your business or good for your team. In this issue, we salute this year’s Contessa semi-finalists on p. 66. It’s quite a great batch of work, and come November 11 we’re looking forward to crowning all the winners!

contributor

Chris Tsintziras group publishEr

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@salonmagazine.ca AssociAtE publishEr

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PHOTO: ALvARO GOvEiA, MAkEUP: LANAGMAkEUP.COM

Jennifer D. Foster

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health | wellness collection

COLOR WELL Prepare. Protect. Preserve.

The best in Color Care, Malibu C Color Wellness System sets a new standard of excellence with a patented vitamin crystal treatment to reveal unprecedented, long-lasting color perfection that will surpass the expectations of both you and your clients.

100% vegan Free of: • • • • •

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Gluten Sulfates Parabens Propylene Glycol No added Sodium Chloride (salt)

color wellness shampoo/conditioner color prepare wellness treatment

Hair: Kai Wan at P Kai Hair, PeterborougH, u.K., MaKeuP: Maddie austin and Lauren MatHis, styLing: desirÉe Lederer, PHoto: JacK eaMes

the contessa countdown is on! Keep checking salonMagazine.ca every week for new content and news leading up to the competition, including where past winners are keeping their contessas and what to wear to the biggest night in canadian hairstyling! Plus, look out for the finalist list posted in early October!

“liKe” it Or nOt We had to get your opinion about Miley Cyrus’ new short ‘do! here’s what you had to say: @MisslJKatzman: @Salon_Magazine @MileyCyrus LOve the new cut!! I hope this inspires woman of all ages to try a short #fierce #hairstyle @juicygiu: real artists do! rt @Salon_Magazine: Love or hate @MileyCyrus’ new ‘do? ow.ly/d10yv We LOve!

Keep checking our social media accounts for contessa ticket giveaways leading up to the big gala! What’s trending We’ve been posting updates of the Contessa judging process here at the office. We know you couldn’t wait for the finalists to be announced, so here’s what you talked about in the meantime. @Michelle lisa Pargee: So to kill time during the dreaded “Contessa wait”...what categories did everyone enter? @Kale_friesen: I liked it better last year when we were on vacation in France and we didn’t have to worry, just going to be at home stressing hahah @robyn_schwartz: haha, we were just talking about this! they’re killing us with the wait... until then, I’m shopping online for the perfect contessa shoes! :)

Online exclusive cOllectiOns See collections from L’Oréal Professionnel, Kai Wan, Pivot Point and more in October! Last month, we asked:

What is the hOttest cOlOur trend fOr fall?

of voteRS Said

bRunetteS Redheads 20% Blondes 10%

talk to uS! 22

salon > october 12

We Want tO hear What yOu have tO Say!

Follow us on twitter, Facebook and Pinterest to stay in the loop. Don’t forget to use the #Contessa hashtag! salonmagazine.ca

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Introducing the world’s first lightening system that goes on clear

Let’s Be Transparent

how much time do you spend wiping bleach off strands to see if lifting is complete on a client? Get ready for that to change.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

olourists, how much time do you spend wiping bleach off strands to see if lifting is complete on a client? Get ready for that to change. Schwarzkopf Professional has developed a new, innovative lightening system that brushes on clear so the lift can be easily seen through the product. BLONDME CRYSTAL Transparent Gel Bleach System is the first of its kind, saves time, increases convenience with a mixing ratio of 1:3 and helps ensure a quality lift up to seven levels in one step. “I first heard of this new Crystal lightener that Schwarzkopf Professional was developing and thought, ‘Wow. Is this even possible?'“ says Lesley Lawson, international colour ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional. “I thought, here’s a product that will save time and effort which will directly result in saving money in the salon—something all hairdressers are looking to do. It’s a great product for experienced hairstylists, while also making it ideal for some of our junior colourists who might be a little more nervous when using lightening products.” BLONDME CRYSTAL is made with xanthan gel, which gives the product its transparency once applied to hair, and the anti-yellow effect neutralizes and corrects unwanted shades. Available in salons in November. To watch BLONDME CRYSTAL in action, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca

october 12 < salon

hairlines news

Shine on

Teaming up for Women

Sebastian amps up shiny styles

ook Good Feel Better, an organization dedicated to helping women address the appearance-related effects of cancer, is partnering with several of Canada's largest professional beauty companies to raise money in support of the nearly 85,000 women who will be diagnosed with cancer this year. For a $100 donation, Goldwell and KMS California salons will receive promotional materials for the salon and 20 pink LGFB bracelets that can be sold as a fundraiser or given to clients to recognize their donations. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the following products will also be going to LGFB this fall: Matrix's pink-banded duo of Vavoom Finishing Spray, Sebastian Professional Shaper duo pack, L'Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil, Revlon Professional Uniq One and ABBA duo pack. L'Oréal Professionnel and Chatters will also be running an in-salon promotion together, while Cosmoprof will be making a substantial donation to the cause as well. To get involved, contact your distributor or go to LookGoodFeelBetter.ca.

Sustainable Beauty Getting in touch with nature for healthier hair

ith a full range of systems that are devoted to nourishing hair with nature’s purest and gentlest ingredients, neuma formulas are professional solutions for salons and clients who desire healthy and sensational results. Made with essential oils instead of chemical-laden fragrance and using clean, green energy to produce the products, the five systems in Moisture, volume, renew, repair and styling are soothing to the head and the land.

salon > october 12

product photos: chris tsintziras, wella trend vision photos courtesy of p&g professional

his year, it's all about gorgeous, healthy-looking locks and the new Trilliance shampoo and conditioner duo and Shine Crafter Wax by Sebastian will have clients walking out the door with like-new glossy hair. All three products use rock crystal extract to provide sensational shine. The wax gives flexible defintion, while the shampoo and conditioner offer a perfect styling base. The new products complement reformulated stylers, Sebastian Trilliant, for ultra-light body, and Shine Define, a flexible hold spray and thermal shield.

salonmagazine.ca

hairlines news

Canadians Win to Represent at ITVA A round of applause to all the winners in the North American Trend Vision competition!

Young Talent, Gold Rémi Cardin, Ode Salon Styliste, Trois-Rivières, Que.

Colour, Gold Philip Ferreira, Axis Salon, Vancouver

ongratulations to the Canadian Wella Trend Vision winners (above), who were crowned at the live awards show in Los Angeles. These stylists will represent Canada at the International Trend Vision Awards in Madrid in October. Runners-up include Mathieu Hubert from Propagande Coiffure, TroisRivières, Que., who took silver in the Young Talent category, Suzanne Pack from Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa, who won silver in the Colour category and Caroline Lavoie from Kavero Coiffure, Jonquiere, Que., who took home bronze in Colour. Winners from the USA are Kelsey Deuel in Young Talent, Matthew Hom in Colour and Gloritza Aviles in Student categories.

Trendsetting Shades for Fall Try out the newest INOA shades INOA OD2, the second generation of L’Oréal Professionnel’s permanent INOA colour line, has launched a line extension of 13 brand-new shades. The multidimensional blondes and luminous brunettes are perfect for fall. “It’s very easy to use, and the shininess is very nice,” says Louis Hechter of Orbite Salon in Montreal. “It has beautiful transparency. The second generation is easier to understand, and the colour really holds.”

Smooth Operator

he new treatment line by Redken eliminates frizz, often caused by humidity and hair breakage and damage. Smooth Lock is the silky thermal care solution with a shampoo, conditioner, rinse-out treatment, leave-in cream and protective smoother for untamable hair, packed with almond oil, a thermal barrier to humidity and a penetrating protein technology that reinforces the cortex.

salonmagazine.ca

october 12 < salon

hairlines news

Nouveau Riche The new permanent line by Goldwell is generous in colour depth

pure and precious

The new line from Pureology pampers colour-treated tresses

eep reds vibrant, brunettes glowing, and blondes from turning brassy with precious oil, an oil-infused line made for coloured hair. the shampâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oil is free of parabens and sulphate, softening condition detangles hair into touchable silk and softening hair Masque deeply strengthens hair. the standout product is Versatile caring oil, which can be used in a combination of ways with the hair-care regime for maximum replenishing effect for troubled strands. It is also green seal-certified and promises to moisturize skin, as well.

salon > october 12

top photos courtesy of goldwell, product photo: chrIs tsINtZIrAs

ectaya is a nurturing, ammonia-free colour developed for 100 per cent grey coverage and performs up to three levels of lift. the gentle formula is made with lipids and argan oil to add plumpness back into each strand. the colour is creamy and naturally fragrant and promises softer, healthier hair results.

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HHAIRLINES A I R L I N E SNEWS

A Top Victory

ount Everest is not for the faint of heart. When Catherine Dupasquier from Salon Lutèce in Saint-Jean-Sur-Richelieu, Que., who is also a L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist, climbed the peak, this was definitely something to cheer about. A mountaineer for several years, Everest was Dupasquier’s top ambition. “It became possible for me to achieve this dream this year, after several other high-altitude expeditions,” she says. “The expedition took two months—the first monthand-a-half are devoted to acclimatization, preparation, transportation to higher camps and then waiting for good weather. On May 19, I reached the summit. My most memorable moment was when I glimpsed the top, and I knew it was going to happen! My body was filled with endorphins and happiness and tears flowed.” Of how this expedition has helped her become better in the industry Dupasquier says, “Mountaineering, like hairdressing, are two passions in life for me! To push the limits in my lifestyle is important. As a salon owner for more than 20 years, I consider overtaking yourself a must in this ever-changing field.”

A Queenly Thumbs Up home for Brampton, Ont. salon owner Robert Rutledge. Nominated by a local MP for his community service efforts through his salon, Salon 247, and his Lucas Foundation, he received the Queen's Jubilee medal along with eight other community members in July. One of his long-time clients of 15 years, Robert Akin, a staff sergeant major in the Canadian military, received the medal directly from the Queen and was on hand to present the medal to Rutledge.

Change-making Cosmetics

hen was the last time you thought about the way your star product is manufactured? For so many salons and spas, shea butter is the hottest elixir to replenish and deeply nourish the body. Nathalie Ouattara, a young entrepreneur from Burkina Faso, in Africa, knew this first-hand when she set out to specialize in a shea butter supply chain called SOTOKACC that provides regular income and social independence to 16 Burkinese women. After catching the attention of René Furterer himself, the high-end Parisian cosmetics company has now partnered with Ouattara and SOTOKACC and is supplying technology to further the advancement of sustainable shea butter production. The result? Karité Intense Nourishing Mask for dry and damaged hair, which is enriched with quince pectin, Cimentrio and, of course, shea butter.

salon > october 12

PHOTOS: CLOCKWISE: COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, ROBERT RUTLEDGE, RENÉ FURTERER, PRODUCT PHOTO: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

The Queen's Jubilee year was brought

salonmagazine.ca

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TO ALL THE SALON MAGAZINE READERS THAT HAVE VOTED FOR US: THANK YOU!

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• Heat is gradually inducted from the inside out, so that rollers are cool to the touch but hot once set in the hair • The O rollers are lightweight and made with a Velcro casing with soft grip technology, so that they glide easily into place within the hair • The rollers come in extra large 60mm or smaller sizes for a tighter finish • The system’s quick and efficient heating system uses seven times less power than traditional heated rollers and heats up in four seconds to 130 degrees

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RunwayIQ by FHI Heat • The Session Styling Rapid Heating Base houses each roller, heating it up in eight seconds and flashing a green indicator light when ready • The roller will continue to heat up once set in place, reaching its maximum temperature in 20 seconds • Create a variety of styles with rollers available in 30mm, 36mm, 42mm and 48mm sizes • Support the setting curls with Session Styling Roller Grip Clips

hairlines news

“A benefit of these rollers is that they will inform you when the hair is set,” says Roi Alan from Kharisma Hair Studio in Houston. “When cool, the sides of the roller are dark grey, and when hot the sides become clear. So, when in the hair, it’s easy to tell when it’s time to take the rollers out.”

HALO Induction Roller Set by CHI • Each roller is made with a ceramic-infused stainless steel core, and the surface is covered with Velcro housing • Rollers heat in the hair and not in the hand to ensure maximum styling control, and a colour indicator dot indicates when the roller has reached optimal temperature • The system can be heated to three different settings: fine, medium and coarse hair • The set comes with 12 rollers in three different sizes

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im Markham, the man who pioneered luxury colour care, has just launched ColorProof Evolved Color Care. New ingredient technology delivers complete benefits for colour-treated hair, offering full spectrum UVA/UVB protection and potent antioxidants to prolong the life and vibrancy of colour. The full range includes both a wet line and styling products that are true luxury—from the sulphate-free, billowy lather of the shampoos to the aromatherapy essences in collection, every formula. To see the complete as well asColorProof Price's colour is environmentally friendly with biodegradable formulas, recyclable packaging, 100 per cent formulas for each look, go to SalonMagazine.ca. vegan formulas and is never tested on animals.

salon > october 12

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photo: ChRIS tSINtZIRAS, CouRteSy of Cloud 9, ChI, ColoRpRoof

You’ll love…

“When clients have coarser hair, the Velcro casing around the rollers tends to soften the wave. In contrast, with clients with smooth, sleek babyfine hair, I can use these rollers to create texture to make the curls bounce off of each other and provide overall fullness,” says Albert Luiz, coowner of Albert Luiz Salon and Spa in Sugar Land, Texas.

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A Holiday Attack Plan

In the blink of an eye, the festive season will be upon us. Here's how to put together your best game plan this year

Before the Holidays Imagine, as a salon owner, walking into the staff meeting ready to present the holiday promotion to your team. Will they be on board? “Let’s bring it back to show-andtell at school. If you have signs, posters and some displays of what the promotion will look like, then the answer is yes!” says Kristi Valenzuela, founder of Crystal Focus Coaching. “Salon owners need to do the pre-work and provide vision when they want to drive a new promotion. Then, involve your

salon > october 12

Our Front Line team to do some goal-setting and brainstorming on the execution.” And what kind of promotions are holiday appropriate? “One possibility is for the salon team to create an in-house hair collection, for example, with three or four updos,” suggests Valencia. “Create some fun and excitement around it by giving the looks names that are specific to the holidays, such as ‘The Silent Night Updo’ or ‘Wave 2012 Goodbye.’ For multi-service salons, this is also a great way to cross-promote the makeup and nail departments with related services, such as ‘Mistle Toe’ pedicures and ‘Angel Eye, Candycane Lip’ makeup.” Creating a unique in-house collection will also differentiate a salon’s service, which clients can ask for by name. “What’s also great about an in-house collection is that it gets the salon into the mood to be a creative team, and this can be done seasonally for spring and summer again,” says Valencia. During the Holidays “Business-wise, we are going to see the most traffic from existing as well as new clients during November and December. Since you hit the biggest

numbers during these months, it’s the perfect time to focus on prebooking, which guarantees clients, carrying the salon into January as well,” says Valenzuela. “If a salon doesn’t already have a pre-book campaign, one idea we use is the pre-book and win. When a customer pre-books her next appointment, her name is entered into a draw to win a big prize.” Another idea is to think about the client’s social calendar during this busy season. “Ask existing clients in early November what events they will be attending, and plant the seed that you would love to be their hairstylist for those events,” says Valencia. “One idea is to have a ‘Twelve Days of Christmas’ package with 12 services that clients can redeem over a series of visits,” suggests Valencia. “Give new clients a welcome gift that includes four offers for their next visit and encourage them to try one today,” says Valenzuela. Not only will clients feel taken care of by the salon, but these ideas also show exceptional customer service and will likely fill the books during the lull in January and February.

“One of the most under-utilized elements of the business is the front desk, and yet it is here that clients receive their first and last impressions of the salon,” says Lauren Gartland, founder of Inspiring Champions. When clients come in for a haircut only, the front desk can be trained to come up with questions to anticipate their other beauty needs, such as offering a manicure, colour or updo. ”You won’t miss the magic, and salons can schedule enough time for additional services, versus a client saying, ‘Oh, since I’m here I’d love to get my nails done,' but there’s no one available,” says Gartland. enD witH a sales seeD Kristi Valenzuela, whose company specializes in phone scripting, suggests,"The front desk can offer a retail product or a special service. Having phone scripts that end with a sales seed will help drive clients to whatever goal the salon is trying to increase. Then, when they walk in and see the supporting signage for the promotion, they’ve already been introduced to it and are ready to start shopping,” says Valenzuela.

contessa 22, finalist, salon interior, red carpet hair salon, toronto, photo: shirin hariri, text: valerie lam

hen summer fades, the holidays arrive one after another like a domino effect—from Thanksgiving through the New Year—and time is of the essence when it comes to being seasonal and relevant in sales and services. “The holidays tend to take care of themselves, but it’s really the months before and after when the salon needs a push,” says Oscar Valencia Jr., senior trainer and coach at Inspiring Champions. Before the last leaf falls, be proactive and plan for steady success into 2013.

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oil-ricH KĂŠrastase introduces new additions to the Grand Crus line, Elixir Kultime, which transforms ordinary hair into sumptuous locks with a scented blend of moringa oil and vitamins. Separate formulas are available for fine and sensitized, damaged and colourtreated hair. Info: kerastase.com

briGHt liGHtS In sleek and stylish bottles comes a hair-care line just for blondes. Caviar AntiAging Brightening Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner duo protects hair against ultraviolet rays and colour fade, and the line also includes a beauty balm and brightening mist. Info: 4alterna.com

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Haute Shades of Fall

Brights pops of colour, a more subtle ombre and rich shades of red, blonde and brunette are leading the way this season By Melissa Hill

s with cutting trends, it’s hard to find one overarching theme for colour this fall—unless it’s “anything goes.” There’s something for everyone, whether a client’s style is mainstream or street. Here’s a look at five fashionable shade options for your most stylish clients.

1. Bright Pops of Colour

dyed hair, where the top of the hair remains a traditional colour while the bottom half is dyed in bold shades of fuchsia, purple or blue that is both playful and trendy, appealing to the adventurous client.”— Jim Markham, founder and president, Color Proof “The fashionistas are adding dip dyes or bright hues to their bronde [blondish-brunette] ombre colour. The bright hues we’re seeing are interesting, too—more true yellows and burgundy purples.”— Crystal Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel educator and technical director at Ricci Hair Co. Salons & Academy, Edmonton

2. Subtle Ombre

H style icons

The Experts Say:

“It’s edgy, bold and easy to change up. You can still keep the base colour rich, but then add flare with a pop of colour. Clients love it and, budget-wise, it makes sense.”— Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks hair artist and owner of Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg,

“I think teal is going to be hot. It works really well with both dark and blonde hair. One of my salons in Vancouver is in a real hipster area, and we’re seeing big chunks of colour for men and women, like bright blue or cherry red—not natural colours. That’s the street look.”— Shannon Simmonds, international guest artist at Joico and owner of On The Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver

H style icons

Ont.

Jessica Biel, Jessica Alba, Camila Alves The Experts Say:

“This is still going to be huge. It’s basically catching up to the mainstream. You’re going to see darker and richer colours and less contrast between the roots and ends.”— Shannon Simmonds,

“I love dip–dyed ends, reverse ombre and high-contrast ends.”

international guest artist at Joico and owner of On The Fringe Hair Design,

— Heidi Kenney, guest artist, Matrix Color Elite Team

Vancouver

“Straight off the runways, we saw multiple designers showing dramatic, bright colours in the hair, including pinks, purples, blues and reds highlighted through the fringe and crown. We also saw dip-

“I think that ombre is going to continue—love it or hate it. Everything is in this land of in-between, neither blonde nor brunette. Look at any celebrity who is brunette-ish or blonde-ish,

salon > october 12

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Jordin Sparks, Demi Lovato, Katy Perry

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they’re really not one or the other.”— Crystal Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel educator and technical director at Ricci Hair Co. Salons & Academy, Edmonton

“Colour today still has that grown-out, ombre look to it. As far as trends go, the best shades are the ones you invent for your clients, where you customize for their style, their skin tone. They’re looking for something that is tied into a trend, but also tied into their lifestyle and what they want.” — Artine Ghazarian, member of the TIGI Creative Team and owner of Artine Hair, Edmonton

“For fall, we are doing a new ombre called colour melting, which is done with solid colours, not highlights. We’re using darker colours and we’re seeing more gold tones. There are no lines, so you can’t see the progression from colour to colour. It seamlessly melts from dark to light—for instance, starting at a level 4 and going to a level 6.”— Suhail Khoury, artistic and creative director,

muted copper moving into a soft apricot. Even famous redheads like Emma Stone are going for softer reds.” — Crystal Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel educator and technical director at Ricci Hair Co. Salons & Academy, Edmonton

“After a few seasons of brighter is best when it comes to red—think Rihanna—we’re moving toward softer reds with more pink tones to them, shades like strawberry lemonade and polished ruby. On the copper side of things, we’re also seeing softer shades with more of a peachy feel.”— Sean Godard, international performing artist for Redken and artistic director for Hair Colour at Salon Tocci, Toronto

4. Cool Blondes

EvelineCharles Salons & Academy, Edmonton and Calgary

3. Richer Reds

Kelly Osbourne, Julianne Hough, Caggie Dunlop, Michelle Williams, Cameron Diaz, Miley Cyrus,

Christina Hendricks, Poppy Montgomery, Nicole Kidman, Emma Stone, Kristen Stewart The Experts Say:

“Reds are still huge and they’re going to get even bigger. We’re seeing a lot of people going for that. Kristen Stewart has a rich auburn in the next Twilight movie. Nicole Kidman has gone back to red. And we’re still getting people coming in for that 'Mad Men' red.”— Shannon Simmonds, international guest artist for Joico and owner of On the Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver

“What I see in reds are cool reds, purples and pinks. We’re seeing it especially on the West Coast. I’m doing a lot of purples and pinks mixed with the deeper tones." — Philip Ferreira, master stylist at Axis Salons, Vancouver, and an educator for Wella

“Usually fall is the season of reds. I do a lot of red colour and right now, I’m interpreting the ombre trend with reds, like a soft

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“A lot of what I’m seeing are ash blondes and grey blondes—mixing ash grey with golden blondes on the same head. Clashing the colours makes them stronger and bolder.” — Philip Ferreira, master stylist at Axis Salons, Vancouver, and an educator for Wella

“Blondes are much more natural, with highlights not touching the base. Both hair colour and styling look effortless for fall.”— Mia Liguori McHugh, co-president and creative director for Scruples

“Blondes will be lightening, with finished tones ranging from pastel platinum to buttery vanilla.”— Heidi Kenney, guest artist, Matrix Color Elite Team

“It’s finally a return to beautiful, refined, natural blonde tones. The traditional full head of foils is over, and we’re moving toward more natural, freehand highlights with a lived-in feel.”— Sean Godard, international performing artist for Redken and artistic director for Hair Colour at Salon Tocci, Toronto

“Blondes will darken for the fall, going into more luxury colours. We’re seeing more golden blondes like caramel blonde or toffee blonde.”— Philip Capobianco, creative and technical manager, Revlon Professional and Intercosmo

H style icons

The Experts Say:

style icons

october 12 < salon

5. Bold Brunettes

H tip

“Keep your clients interested by changing up their hair. Tell them what you’re going to do the next time they visit. Then, the seed is planted and they’re ready to do it when they come back in.” — Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional

Essential Looks hair artist and owner of Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont.

Focus on Hair Health

H style icons

Kristen Stewart, Jessica Biel, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga The Experts Say:

“Before, it used to be golden chocolate brown for fall, but now we’re going more into richer colours, like a deep brown mixed with red violet. We’re getting away from just highlights and into the deeper shades.” — Philip Ferreira, master stylist at Axis Salons, Vancouver, and an educator for Wella

“For fall, it is the brunettes who have more fun. Ombre is still enjoying the limelight, but the transition of colour becomes more subtle with the over all shades getting deeper.” — Mia Liguori McHugh, co-president and creative director for Scruples

“Brunettes will sport a shiny, old Hollywood glam look with the frivolity of ‘90s punk. There will certainly be a focal flash of fashion colour.”— Heidi Kenney, guest artist, Matrix Color Elite Team “Mixtures of cool and warm tones create this season’s brunettes. The contrast is subtle and very natural looking. Shade names including cool coco, mocha, toasted almond and caramel latte.” — Sean Godard, international performing artist for Redken and artistic director for Hair Colour at Salon Tocci, Toronto

“For brunettes, we’re seeing luxe colours, like rich browns with hues of red. We’re also seeing gold bolts or a random blonde streak through the rich brown, similar to Lady Gaga. For any trend, though, you’re really only going to see 10 percent of your clients making a dramatic change to their hair colour, like going brunette to blonde.” — Philip Capobianco, creative and technical manager, Revlon Professional and Intercosmo

salon > october 12

Prep clients properly for a big colour change—or simply rejuvenate locks for fall

fter months of wind, sun and playing outside, hair has taken a beating. Now all those heads are walking into your salon, ready for an updated autumn cut and colour. "Depending on what end result is expected, some clients might need reconstruction," says Nik Bellemare, a junior master stylist at Salon Pure in Montreal. "A lot of people go to sunny destinations, and sea salt bakes into the hair on the beach, leaving the cuticle quite open." Bellemare likes to use a protein mask—his choice is KeraStraight Protein Mask—to replace hair proteins eaten away by the elements. "Most of the time we have people come in for a consultation first and we do a case-by-case analysis. We take a look at the elasticity and porosity and then decide how to proceed," he says. "And we work around their time frame and budget." The protein or moisture treatments at Salon Pure are $150 for the mask and a blowout afterward. For a client with hair that's in very rough shape and wants to maximize the health of her hair, Bellemare has her come in 48 hours before the colour service for a protein mask application, which requires a pre-wash with a special shampoo, strand-by-strand application, 20 minutes under the dryer and a finishing blowout. Forty-eight hours after colour application, the client will return for a moisture mask—he likes KeraStraight Moisture Mask— to add shine and suppleness. "There are two sides to treating hair—the therapeutic and the cosmetic," says Bellemare. "Therapeutically, with the protein mask, we need to rebuild the hair and make sure it won't break. The cosmetic aspect, that shiny, supple, bouncy hair—that's where the moisture mask comes in."

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Q Your Toughest Colour Questions Answered!

Educators from around the industry share their solutions to your colouring conundrums

I’m a new colourist. Where do I begin with colour selection and formulation? In my opinion most mistakes can be linked directly back to the consultation—or lack thereof. Be sure to analyze the hair, eyes and skin tone and have an understanding of who the client is, so that you can choose a colour that suits not only the eyes and skin tone, but also suits her personality, lifestyle and budget. Proper consultation, hair analysis and the four basic rules of colour— one, determine the natural level; two, the desired level; three, the desired tone; and four, volume of developer—will equal great colour results! —Heidi Kenney, guest artist, Matrix Color Elite Team How can I create the perfect double process blonde? With so many celebrities wearing these pale blonde looks, many students and colourists are challenged with how to create them. Most colourists don't prelighten the hair light enough to achieve the proper shade when applying the toner. The best way to gauge if the hair is light enough is to ask yourself, “Does the prelightened hair look like the inside

salon > october 12

of a banana or the outside of a banana?” If it's the outside, then I tell them they need to apply a second application of the lightener before toning. The hair truly has to be at pale yellow to achieve the soft beautiful results that are desired with a double-process blonde. — Amie Breckenridge Goltz, director of Field Education and Scruples Academy How much should I charge for more creative colour services? This answer is always a difficult one to give but, generally, I say it depends on location and the time spent to complete the service or technique. When doing a creative placement you are customizing the technique to the client’s specific needs, so never undervalue your creatvity. Creativity has no value; product, on the other hand, does. — Timothy Switzer, Goldwell educator and owner of Timothy & Co., Oshawa, Ont.

How do you get clients to have colour services in the salon versus at home? Make sure you do a proper consultation. Find out her lifestyle and budget, and provide her with a service that is low maintenance, with less commitment. Avoid a full

pHotos: clockwisE: rokstar rEds By tHE rokstar Hair artistic tEaM, BrisBanE, australia, Hair: tEgan rivEra, rEnEE Ziccardi, david stirling, daniEllE gallagHEr, MakEup: nadinE JoHns-alcock, pHotos: rEd EclipsE

By Melissa Hill

salonmagazine.ca

& head of colour. Instead, use highlights, lowlights or demi-colour. Use the right colour products and techniques, and you can keep within their budget with fewer visits to the salon. —Yvonne Sharples, educator for Wella

so try a five or 10 volume, instead. When you use a 30 volume, you bake that pigment inside the hair and then it is really hard to remove. — Guy Trudel, education manager for Joico

When I am retouching a new client’s colour for the first time, how can I make sure that my colour blends with their previous colour? Match the client’s colour as closely as possible, and refresh midlengths and ends with a demi-permanent colour for seamless blending. I would also suggest placing a few foils for high or lowlights to create added dimension. — Heidi Kenney, guest artist, Matrix Color Elite Team

Why can’t I get my blondes to lift properly? One of biggest frustrations for colourists is getting blondes to lift enough levels. For example, trying to get seven levels and only getting five. Or a week or so later, it turns brassy. Most of the time this becomes a colour correction issue, when it’s really about getting a clean canvas to start with, so that you can let colour go in there and do what it’s supposed to do. When there are minerals in the hair, it’s like blasting past a rock. The bleach is trying to blast past a rock and it’s getting stuck and it can’t get to the protein and lift. As a culture in this industry, we want to take the customer as they are when they walk through the door. But they could have products on the hair or haven't washed their hair in three days. We think we can take that customer and just colour her hair and that has got to change. — Trisha Rice, advanced educator for Malibu C

When I try to remove red, the ends turn pink. How can I get rid of that? Pink can’t be neutralized with a green base; the shade will end up smoky-looking. The best way to neutralize pink ends is to use a colour with a gold base. This will turn the colour mostly copper and then you can remove it and neutralize that with a colour that has a blue base. This often occurs when you’re trying to remove colour that uses a direct pigment and when you’re attempting to bleach with a 20 or 30 volume. The slower you go, the better the result,

salonmagazine.ca

Why are my blondes too warm/gold/brassy/coppery? Often the colourist is impatient and is trying to use too strong of a developer. I compare using a 20 volume to a marathoner and a 30 volume to a sprinter. Your sprinter starts very quickly and gets out of breath quickly. The marathoner, the 20 volume, doesn’t go as fast, but gets you much farther. With colour, when you try to push it, you get stuck with gold pigment. It’s better going longer with 20 volume and you get a better quality of hair afterward. Then it’s just a matter of toning. People are afraid of ash. For copper, go in with a blue ash, and for gold use blue violets. There’s always a way to start using a more subtle, natural ash. Once you gain confidence, then you can go in and neutralize even more, and your colour will improve even more. — Vicky Filiatrault, TDS technical development specialist for Revlon Professional and Intercosmo

How can I get better control of undertones in my final hair colour result? The easiest way to address this common issue is to go back to our hair colour principles and revisit the beloved colour wheel. Undertones are the unrefined warm tones exposed during the lifting process. Always consider the exposed undertones visible at the target level. To counteract undertones, select a shade with tonal value opposite to the undertone exposed at the target level. Remember, opposites neutralize. To enhance undertones, select a shade with a tonal value similar to the undertone exposed at the target level. —Terry Ritcey, national education director, Redken Canada

october 12 < salon

covering white or grey hair with reds or fashion tones, • When the formula usually needs to have a covering shade, which most

often is a natural shade. The natural is added to the formula to compensate for the white hair. Without natural, the white hair would be very vibrant, without 100 per cent coverage of white and would most likely be too intense for the average client. The fact that the natural shade is brown; this will reduce the vibrancy on the mid-lengths and ends. This appears to the stylist and client as fading, and, in some cases, the ends will look brown compared to the red at the roots.

best processing time for reds using permanent colour is • 45Theminutes. in mind, if the condition of the hair is good and not overly • Keep porous, it is not an issue to use permanent colour on the midlengths and ends. In this case, the formula needs to change as the hair on the mid-lengths and ends is different from the new growth.

where there is no white to cover, we always need • Into cases remember to treat the mid-lengths and ends almost like a second head of hair. This means changing the formula for the mid-lengths and ends. The choices in that case would be to switch to a demi that matches the tone, or lower the developer and use the same red shade for the mid-lengths and ends.

option to help reds last longer is to switch to a • Another demi-permanent colour for the mid-lengths and ends. Demi-

permanent colours have a different chemistry than permanent color and can be a kinder option, especially when dealing with porous hair. The processing time when using a demipermanent colour on the mid-lengths and ends will be reduced to 20 minutes.

last and equally important way to prevent reds, or any • The colour, from fading is the care products used at home.

Hair colour and condition are protected and prolonged with shampoos, conditioners and treatments recommended by the colourist. Professional products use high concentrations of highquality ingredients. Colour shampoos are also designed with specific or focused ingredients, such as UV filters to protect the hair, which in turn will protect the colour and increase its longevity. S

salon > october 12

photo: rokstar reds by the rokstar hair artistic team, brisbane, australia, hair: shari mclaughlin, makeup: nadine Johns-alcock, photo: red eclipse

Fading Reds

Reds It continues to be one of the most popular colours for fall, and yet it also remains one of the trickiest for clients to keep. Susan Boccia, national trainer for Schwarzkopf Professional, discusses the causes and solutions for fading reds.

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Beauty in the Desert PBAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Beauty Week packs in inspiration, education and the latest products and trendsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all with a touch of Vegas-style glamour By Melissa Hill

salon > october 12

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t’s one of the biggest weeks in the professional beauty industry and it all happens every July in Las Vegas. Bringing together manufacturers, distributors, stylists, salon owners and students, the Professional Beauty Association’s Beauty Week includes the annual City of Hope fundraising gala, the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), Beacon, an educational forum for students, and Cosmoprof North America, a trade show where distributors meet with manufacturers to see the latest launches and find the newest innovations.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION AND CASHMAN PHOTO

City of Hope was HOT! The City of Hope gala included performances by Al Green and Aretha Franklin, resulting in one of the most sought-after tickets that week. This year, the annual fundraiser honoured George Schaeffer with the Spirit of Life award. Attendees raised more than $2.7 million, and Schaeffer matched dollar-for-dollar up to $2.5 million, resulting in a record of more than 1,700 people in attendance and $5.2 million raised for City of Hope. Additionally, Schaeffer paid for the entire cost of the gala event, allowing all proceeds to go directly to fundraising. He also had a surprise in store for his beauty industry friends, when he took to the stage and renewed his wedding vows at the event!

A Top NAHA Goes to Edwin Johnston The NAHAs are given out each year to top stylists who submit work from across North America. Nanaimo, B.C.’s Edwin Johnston, owner of The Cutting Room Creative and

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a past Contessa winner, took home the award in the highly competitive Master Stylist category. Congratulations go out to all of the winners! Guiliana Rancic Ups the Glamour Factor E! News co-host Guiliana Rancic hosted this year’s NAHA awards and also took home the Beautiful Humanitarian Award, honouring her efforts for breast cancer awareness. Also announced at NAHA was a new partnership and a $100,000 sponsorship between Great Clips and CUT IT OUT, an organization dedicated to raising awareness and stopping domestic violence with the support of salons, spas and beauty professionals.

Cool Launches at Cosmoprof Offering a great sneak preview of products that may be coming to Canada, the product reveals at Cosmoprof are a good barometer for what’s happening in the industry. Nails continue to be one of the biggest stories in professional beauty and it’s only getting better, with tools and products for nail technicians that allow them to more easily create looks that clients are demanding. Overall, the focus in nails is on products that expand creativity, last longer and leave nails healthier. For a look at three products spotted on the floor, check out the Nails section of this issue, on p. 76. Flat irons will always be a staple, but with a trend toward texture, tools that create it are hot. From creatively shaped curling irons to a new generation of hot rollers using heat-induction (see “Toolbox,” p. 32), appliances are big. They’re a great retail item for the salon, as well, going into fall and winter. S

What’s Next from PBA? Don’t miss ISSE Midwest, November 4 and 5 in Chicago! More than “just a hair show,” the event will feature an array of education, hair and nail competitions, the latest tools and products from the top beauty brands and artistic presentations from some of the industry’s biggest stars. For a list of exhibitors and more information on entering one of the competitions, go to www.probeauty.org/issemw.

2012 NAHA Winners Avant Garde Nicholas French, West Hampton, NY Contemporary Classic Dimitrios Tsioumas, New York Editorial Hairstylist Neeko Abriol, Pasadena, Calif. Haircolor Chad Demchuk, Drexel Hill, Penn. Hairstylist of the Year Dimitrios Tsioumas, New York Make-Up Artist Jeanne San Diego, Upland, Calif. Master Stylist Edwin Johnston, Nanaimo, BC Newcomer Sal Misseri, Chicago, Ill. Salon Design Square Colour Salon + Spa, Las Vegas Salon MBA Gila Rut Salons, San Diego Salon Team Lunatic Fringe Salon, Salt Lake City Student Stylist Cassandra Monteyro, West Chester, Ohio Texture Jasmine Gibbs, Brooklyn, NY

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salon > october 12

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Fashion Forward SKP’s Essential Looks collection gives a glimpse of what’s to come

he 32nd edition of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks collection introduces four key catwalk looks for autumn/winter 2012: Eccentric Heritage, a mash-up of military, country and ladylike; ‘60s Twist, an edgy tribute to the decade; Oriental Express, a reflection on the hypnotic allure of the East; and Neo Couture, a powerful, androgynous look with dark appeal.

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To see more looks from the collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Global Ambassadors: Tyler Johnston and Lesley Lawson Makeup: Loni Bauer Styling: Ingo Nahrwold Photos: Simon Emmett S 50

salon > october 12

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STYLE

Starts with Beauty Skins by Hot Tools ®

Filigree Scroll

Hair: Freda Rossidis, CAST Salons, Melbourne, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Rikki Lee Photos: Andrew O’Toole

salon > october 12

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Sixties Fever

Freda Rossidis’ latest collection casts the strong and sexy calendar girl

nspired by the icons of the 1960s, Rossidis’ hair looks in ”Factory Girls“ are as beautiful, timeless and sensuous as Bridget Bardot, Edie Sedgwick, Twiggy and Wilhelmina Cooper, to name a few. Reinvigorated for a modern look, these classic beauties never cease to capture the attention of a good eye. S

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salon > october 12

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Hair: Alexandra Kontos, Hobart, Australia Makeup: Garry Suitz Styling: Emma Cotterill Photos: Andrew O'Toole

Like liquid metal, Alexandra Kontos morphs hair into submission

Chrome Contour

hapely metallics define this hair design from rising star, Alexandra Kontos—who, in 2008, won Creative Colorist Apprentice in Goldwell Color Zoom and People's Choice Creative Colourist Australia in 2011. “My Contour collection is inspired by the fluidity of the female form,” says Kontos. “Each shot encapsulates the essence of a woman by utilizing sensual shapes and soft textures, while opting for a colour contour that is understated but still emotive to the eye.” S

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salon > october 12

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Scarlet Statement

Mana Dave’s awardwinning collection has punch

leek and striking, Mana Dave’s collection—the Scarlett Woman—captures a woman who marries sensuality with strength. The collection won New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year at the 2012 Hair Expo. Inspired by the power dress of the ‘80s and allure of the Gucci fashion house, the hair is shaped and given a high-shine finish. Colour is added with strategic disconnection and complemented by sophisticated rouge in the clothing. S

Hair: Mana Dave Blaze, Auckland, New Zealand Makeup: Simone Brooke Styling: Rebecca Flavell Photos: Jessica Sim

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october 12 < salon

Completely Undone The debut collection from the Color Room Salon and Day Spa enters with abandon

omancing Freedom is the oxygen for Pamela Andersonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision of her salonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first hair collection. Desiring hair to breathe in all ways, the hair designs tumble down unstructured, but not without sustaining sensual body and volume. The form and ease of detailed styling also adds the je ne sais quoi of true romance. S

Art direction: Pamela Anderson Hair: Pamela Anderson and Elizabeth Fernandez, Dyer, Ind. Makeup: Krystyn Johnson Photos: Jean Sweet

salon > october 12

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Big Personality Tessa Suderman’s hair design is as individual as each model

“

ainly, I love bold selfexpression,” says Tessa Suderman of her collection that is inspired by the model herself. “The girl in the photo is my sister, Sophia, and in some ways this soft pastel colour is a juxtaposition to her strong, independent nature; although, it fits her eccentric life and personality,” says Suderman. “Her hair usually just falls into place, so I went over a few curls on top with a curling iron to give a slightly more polished look.” S

Hair: Tessa Suderman, Tessa Suderman Hair, Abbotsford, B.C. Styling: Champion Jacks Emporium Photo: James Moes

salon > october 12

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Art Direction, Hair: Odile Gilbert Colourist: Jean-Jacques Doolaeghe and Fréderic Mennetrier Photos: Michelangelo Di Batista

Tried and True

Old Hollywood brightens new looks for fall and winter from L’Oréal Professionnel

“

ithout a doubt, we have seen a trend toward haircuts and styles that are increasingly glamorous and sophisticated with modern lightness,” says Odile Gilbert of the "Retro Nouveau" collection. Skillfully coloured to create the illusion of depth and volume with darker, more natural shades at the roots and brighter shades on the lengths, the look is a flattering revisit to retro sensuality. S

salon > october 12

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Hair: Marc Anthony, Toronto Makeup: M.A.C. Cosmetics Styling: Farley Chatto Photos: Angus Rowe MacPherson

A Touch of Cashmere Beautiful hair graces the ninth annual White Cashmere collection

ade with 100 per cent Cashmere bathroom tissue, the annual White Cashmere collection brings top Canadian fashion designers together with hair talent at Marc Anthony. “Each dress has its own message and the challenge is to interpret the hair to reflect the direction of each outfit, while staying within the creative guidelines,” says Marilisa Sears, artistic director for Marc Anthony Hair. “Having the hair a bit messy with the structure of a ‘40s silhouette gives hair a fresh take on the outfits. I wanted a modern interpretation of timeless hair.” S

salon > october 12

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CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST COLOURIST narchy Feminism digital layerMASTER Warrior medieval Revolution TEXTURE shattered evolution fringe military inn Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Vincent DiPlacido, Sadiva Coiffure, Laval, Que. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Zazoon Huynh, Käaz, Montreal Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Amy Ould, Singleton’s Hair Care, Edmonton graduation Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

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Martin Alarie, Salon Pure, Montreal Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto graduation Rodica Hristu, De Berardinis Salon & Spa, Toronto Malissa Jeffers, Is Salon, Vancouver Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Jaye McLeod, Is Salon, Vancouver Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petroysan, Industry Hairdressing, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont.

Jenny Bell, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Stephanie Corbett, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L. Cindy Duplantis, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe, Québec Kye Pyeon Suki’s, Vancouver Aldo Scopazzi, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Enrico Sangiorgio, Salon Collage, Toronto Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L.

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TEAM Jeff Bernardini, Montreal volutionCANADIAN fringe SALON military innovation CANADIAN morphCOLOURIST rollers evolving morph tribal Funky NewToque, graduation Martin Alarie, Salon Pure, Montreal

AMP Salon, Burlington, Ont. Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair Studio, Barrie, Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Ont. Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Melanie Bourne, JC Salons, Toronto Blushes, Ottawa Simon-Pierre Daoust, Planète Hair, Montreal Carreiro the Studio, Victoria Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. graduation Civello Rosedale Salon and Spa, Toronto Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair, Vancouver Curious Hair Skin Body, Calgary Elaine Morin, Nicole Bisson Coiffure, Montreal Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Dandy Salon Spa, Edmonton Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Edmonton Aveda Academy, Edmonton Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton graduation Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box Hair Studio, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L. Edmonton Hype Studio, Vancouver Lola Savarit, Funky Toque Salon, Montreal JC Salons, Toronto Michael R. Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, MËDZ Salon, Verdun, Que. Toronto A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s Panache, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Planète Hair, Montreal Oshawa, Ont. Sound Salon Spa, St. John’s, N.L. Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Tonic South Granville, Vancouver Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Amber Turcotte, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver ELITE MASTER Jessica Van Kuyk, Suki’s, Vancouver graduation Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Michael Crispel, Earth, A Salon by Michael Crispel, Emilie Weissmann, Planète Hair, Montreal Toronto Anthony Crosfield, Union Salon, Vancouver SESSION Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Youssef Gereige, Youssef Hair Boutique Inc., Andor Bubelenyi, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton graduation Windsor, Ont. Josè Cano, Funky Toque, Montreal Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Tal Fisher, Carte Blanche Coiffure, Montreal Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio Inc, Etobicoke, Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Ont. Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon, Sask. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, Amy Laing, Ponytails & Horshoes Ltd., Edmonton B.C. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. BC Anna Pacitto, Pure Coiffure, Montreal Tammy Michaud, Claudio Coiffure International, Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Bellefeuille, Que. Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Oshawa, Ont. Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Pure, Montreal Renn VanDyck, Élan Hair and Esthetics, Winnipeg

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Matthew Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair, Vancouver Thomas Melong, Vivid Hair and Body, Antigonish, N.S. Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Caffery VanHorne , Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto

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Cindy Duplantis, KOI Hair Studio, Brampton, Ont.

McKinnon medieval Hair Design, Hamilton anarchy Feminism digitalElshadai layerErbeto, Warrior Revolution sha

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Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Farhad Habib, Life Hair Studio, Toronto Duyen Huynh, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Tony Jorge, RST Creative Studio, Toronto Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Josée Renaud, Josée Renaud Coiffure, Québec, Que. Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, Ont. Sean Theriault, MËDZ Salon, Verdun, Que.

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MAKEUP ARTIST

anarchy Feminism Jennilee Cardinal-Schultz, Chop Chop Salon, digital lay Saskatoon

Jennifer Dionne, Freelance, Montreal edieval Revolution shattered evolution fringe military innovation morph rollers evolving morph tribal

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Craig-Ryan French, Freelance, Montreal Marie-Eve Laquerre, Dan Coiff, Parisville, Que. Maria Li, Freelance, Toronto Jakki Polyoka, Makeup by Jakki, Hamilton Geneviève Proulx, Donald Proulx, Montreal Tanya Roy, Sophia’s Hairdressing Academy, Laval, Que. Gabriela Soares, GSMakeup Art, Waterloo, Ont. Dominik Vincent, Styl-Lib Coiffure, Vaudreuil-Dorion, Que. NAIL ENHANCEMENT DESIGN Alexandra Chrustel, Nails by Alexandra, Barrie, Ont.

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tion Progress

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2013

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Valérie Ducharme, Studio 2075, Montreal Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Mélina Jean, Styl-Lib Coiffure, novation anarchy Feminism digital layerJohn Warrior medieval Revolution shattered evolution fringe military Allison Patterson, Beverly Ashdown Nail Studio, Jason Fournier, Angles Hair, Calgary Vaudreuil-Dorion, Que. Saskatoon

Robyn Schwartz, Polished + Pampered and Feminism rollers evolving morph tribal HairNew

Esthetics, Grand Forks, B.C. Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta. Katie Truong, Body Bliss Beautique, Whitby, Ont. Melissa Dawn Zaran-Mayer, Rumors Hair Studio, graduation Regina

Penny Hicken, Catwalk Spa, Lethbridge, Alta. Josée Renaud, Josée Renaud Coiffure, Québec graduation BOBSalon Change disconnect Progress anarchy

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George Hajjar, Salon Pure, Calgary

Dobrinka Kuyumdzhieva, Käaz, Montreal

Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit, Edmonton Jason Mellor, Curious Hair Skin Body, Calgary Justin Rizzuto, Angles Hair, Calgary Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Cindy St. Pierre, Altimo Hair Group, Edmonton

Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Dominik Vincent, Styl-Lib Coiffure, Vaudreuil-Dorion, Que. Emilie Weissmann, Planète Hair, Montreal Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style Couleur, Montreal

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evolution BOB Change Progress Jenny Bell, disconnect WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Russel Bally, EGO Salon, Brampton, Ont.

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Stephanie Corbett, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Thomas Melong, Vivid Hair and Beauty, Antigonish, N.S. Stephanie Russell, The Headroom Salon and Spa, St. John’s, N.L. Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. graduation Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L.

Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon

anarchy FeminismGuy digital ayerSalon, Warrior Lemieux, Berns & lBlack Winnipeg medieval R

Filion, Emil of Switzerland, innovation Orléans, Ont. Chris tribal Pritchard, Daniel Regina nge evolutionIsabelle fringe military morph rollers evolving morph NewChristopher, graduation BOB Cha Amber George, Verve Hair Lounge, North Francesca Rizzuto, Aveda Academy Salon Winnipeg, Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Vancouver, B.C.

TJ Pepper, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Winnipeg

Martin, Salon EspaceFeminism C, Brossard, Que. Smith-Francis, Élan Hair & Esthetics, ProgressAnnieanarchy digital layer Warrior medievalBrittany Revolution shattered evolution fringe Alicia Marie Rollins, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Krystal Sobhie, Blushes, Ottawa Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style Couleur, Montreal

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Josie Vilayvanh, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg BOB Change disconnect Sara Whyte, Alchemy Salon, Saskatoon Progress Annette Wilkinson, Angles Hair Design, Winnipeg

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ital evolving NEWCOMER morph tribal New Melissa Blom, Blushes, Ottawa

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James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia Health & Wellness

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN

Aqua Beautyanarchy Salon & Day Spa, Aurora, Ont. disconnect Progress Feminism di

Sylvain Bellerose, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Kim Coady, Brio Salon Inc., Lethbridge, Alta. Davide Fattor, La Dolce Vita, Day Spa and Salon, Jamie Curtis, Élan Hair and Esthetics, Winnipeg Kamloops, B.C. Amberleigh Forsyth, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Vancouver Sarah Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Timothy Kuo, Markus J. Hair, Vancouver Emma Ga Jin Park, Avant Garde Hair Salon, Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, Heidi Seiffert, Aquilibrium Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. B.C. Brittany Smith-Francis, Élan Hair and Esthetics, Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Winnipeg Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Krystal Sobhie, Blushes, Ottawa Loretta Tom, Markus J. Hair, Vancouver Josie Vilayvanh , Élan Hair and Esthetics, Winnipeg graduation ONTARIO STUDENT/APPRENTICE Jenny Bell, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Leanne Curtis, Essentique Salon and Spa, Winnipeg Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, Chloe Forster, Space Salon, Vancouver Ont. graduation Bailey Hutchinson, Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Ont. Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Michelle Keyes, Aveda Institute Winnipeg, Winnipeg Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. graduation Anastasia Kravtsova, Farshad Hair Studio, Toronto Derrick Rutherford, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Marina Lima, EGO Salon, Brampton, Ont. Ont. Natalie Litynsky, Vancouver Hairdressing Academy, Lisa Sallabank, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Vancouver Aldo Scopazzi, WAC, Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Breanne Loftus, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, Jason Traicheff, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, B.C. Ont. Amy Middleton, Salon Pop, Winnipeg Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Dina Morrell, JC Salons, Toronto QUEBEC ALBERTA Simon-Pierre Daoust, Planète Hair, Montreal Jenna Bosch, Plush Salon and Spa, Medicine Hat, Sara Drolet, Donald Proulx, Montreal Alta. Sandy Hogue, Panache Salon, Montreal

Carte Blanche Coiffure, Montreal Carte Blanche Haute Coiffure and Spa, Orleans, Ont. Jerry’s Hair Salon & Day Spa, Winnipeg Karma Salon and Spa, Calgary Les Ateliers Lavande Inc., Longueuil, Que. Panache, Montreal Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont. Salon & Spa Roxx, Sherwood Park, Alta. Studio So Lara, Kitchener, Ont.

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Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Guys and Dolls Salon & Spa, Elmira, Ont. Karma Salon and Spa, Calgary Metamorphosis Beauty Group, St. Catharine’s, Ont. Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont.

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BUSINESS EXCELLENCE FRED.hair.beauty.art, Halifax St. Vital Unisex Hair Salon, Winnipeg Zennkai Salon, Vancouver

Finalists listed online in October and in the November/December issue

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Classics with a Twist John Jen Hoe Chong shares the inspiration behind his staff’s Canadian Salon Team finalist collection

“

or this collection, the idea we came up with is classic and geometric with a little twist to give it a modern look,” says Chong, of the looks created by his four-person team. “The geometric shapes are very clean, like what we learned in beauty school, but we use strong colours to make it a bit edgy. We also didn’t want to dress the woman in typical classic clothing and chose to suggest sexiness by revealing just enough skin.” S

Hair and Colour: John Jen Hoe Chong, Rob Gaspar and Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Makeup: Adrianne Thomson Photos: Martin Bougie

salon > october 12

salonmagazine.ca

COLOUR SYSTEM

UNIQUE WORLDWIDE Removable without acetone

PROFILE

Leading with Heart Long-time industry veteran and founder of Hairapalooza, Frank Bruno, shares his tales from the front By Melissa Hill

ack in 1997, a small event in Barrie, Ont.—a live cut and colour competition—took place. Called Hairapalooza, it featured 12 students from a local school and 80 people came to watch. The man behind the show, Frank Bruno, was—at the time—the owner of a local distributor. Now, 15 years later, both have come far. Bruno is the national director of sales for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada, and Hairapalooza is a big and bold annual event.

Q. Why did you start Hairapalooza? A. I wanted to give the students of a small school I was dealing with at the time a platform to be stars, to help build their confidence. At that point, I co-owned a company called Premiere Beauty Supplies, which was a distributor for Schwarzkopf. We wanted to keep it really edgy and fun. We didn’t want it to be sophisticated—just grab a model, get on a stage, cut hair and get recognition instantly. That first year, we had 80 people come and 12 hairdressers competing. The next year, we opened it up with professional and new talent categories. That’s when it started getting competitive.

Q. How has the show changed over the last 15 years?

A. In Barrie, we’re attracting 700 people year after year. There are 30 competitors each year, a blend of professional and new talent, all on the stage cutting at the same time. This past year, we introduced a men’s cutting segment, which was extremely popular. When I started working with Schwarzkopf, that was a big turning point, and it started going national across Canada and we started also using it as a platform to introduce the Essential Looks collections for spring and fall. The show now takes place in four cities each year; Montreal, Barrie, Toronto and Calgary.

Q. You’re also very involved in charities, both personally and professionally. Which ones and why is that so important?

A. Personally, I’m involved with Northern Cancer Foundation, raising money for a PET scanner for northeastern Ontario. It’s a state-of-the-art diagnostic tool that gives more accurate diagnoses. We’re trying to raise $3 million and so far we’ve raised more than $250,000. [Bruno is raising the money in honour of his brother, Sam, who died of cancer two years ago and started the fight to get access to a PET scanner in the northeastern area, where none are available. He is joined in his efforts by his two sisters and his sister-in-law, and the four are quite

Frank Bruno (right) with a winner from Hairapalooza Toronto 2011. pleased with the support and money raised so far. Last year, their efforts were supported with fundraising by SKP Canada.]

Which charity will SKP Canada support this year?

A.This year, money will be going to Sharing Hands, which sends hairstylists to underdeveloped countries to help train people as stylists and give them a trade. We’ll be targeting salons that want to participate, and from our holiday packs, a certain percentage will be donated for each one sold. This past year, one young student from Peru who was helped by the charity, came to Barcelona as one of 10 SKP ambassadors from around the world and was on stage doing hair for an audience of 3,000. S Don't miss Hairapalooza Toronto on October 21. Lesley Lawson, SKP's global colour ambassador, will be in attendance to show the latest Essential Looks collection for fall/ winter. For info and tickets, call 905-624-0470.

Hairpalooza then and now

salon > october 12

2011

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRANK BRUNO

2011

1997

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EDUCATION COMPETITIONS CE HOURS

SHOPPING

Purchase Your Tickets Now! probeauty.org/issemw 866.229.2386 Tickets also available at: Hair by 2011 NAHA Finalist Charlie Price

EXPERIENCE THE BEAUTY SHOW FOR PROFESSIONALS New dates for 2012!

November 4 - 5, 2012

Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, IL

COLOUR

Budget-Conscious Colour The dos and don’ts for keeping colour clients in the salon By Melissa Hill

Between tougher economic realities, a savvier client base and the retailing success of mass market products, it can sometimes be difficult to convince clients not to go it alone when it comes to colour. But colourists have found ways to counter the effects. Here, three of them share their secrets for keeping budget-conscious clients in their chairs.

tonal family of the base shade—one depth lighter or brighter—she selects pieces around the face to create depth. “I let her see that I’m using more than one thing. That it’s not just throwing a box of colour on the hair,” says Brown.

➺

Forget to prescribe the right take-home products. “For clients, educating them on using the proper shampoos and conditioners is highly important. You want to make sure they’re not leaving and using high alkaline products that are stripping your colour out of their hair,” says Cini. “A good hair-care regimen is crucial to keep colour looking good.”

Discuss budget. “One of the first things I might ask, if she wants something extreme and high maintenance, is, ‘How often are you looking to come in here?’ If the client says, ‘Every three or four months,’ then I may still play with highlights, but do a softer colour, so she can get more time out of it,” says Joanna Cini, co-owner of The Barber’s Daughter Hair Salon in Toronto. For Crystal Brown, artistic director for Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton, the consultation is the time for establishing a budget—and it’s a natural progression during the course of learning who they are and figuring out the best way to give them what they want. “Lots of clients are afraid to bring it up, but it’s key to avoiding sticker shock when they go to checkout,” says Brown.

➺Do......................

Get creative in working with a client’s budget. “The most expensive thing is creating the look. Maintaining is where we can balance the budget," says Brown. “For instance, I can create the look for a client and then a more junior stylist maintains it. So she is seeing me three times a year and the other stylist sees them six times a year. That’s still my client, and she’s still referring people to me.”

➺Don’t.................. ➺Do...................... Demonize drug store colour. “I don’t think drug store hair colour is a bad thing,” says Brown. “Who am I to tell my client that she can’t be beautiful within her budget? I have to do things to make her choose me over the drug store. The performance between box colour and the colour in the salon is me.” In some instances, Brown will have clients who maintain their base colour at home and then come into the salon for highlights.

➺Do......................

Create something they can’t do at home. Brown makes a point of never doing a solid colour in the salon. Instead, she’ll create something she calls a spotlight: using a demi-permanent colour in the same

salon > soctober 12

Go low maintenance. There’s never been a better time to be low maintenance with colour, especially with the continuing popularity of ombre and the extensive ranges of demi-permanent shades. “Ombre is great because they don’t need to come in and get their roots done. Demi permanents are huge because they wash out, can be used to extend the time between service, refresh the colour, make it richer and, overall, avoid that strong line of demarcation,” says Shannon Simmonds, owner of On the Fringe Hair Design in Vancouver. Cini recommends playing with splashes of colour in a peek-a-boo effect below the part. “As long as you have natural colour over the part, clients are able to maintain it longer,” she says. S

PHOTO: CONTESSA 22 FINALIST, MASTER COLOURIST, HAIR: CRYSTAL BROWN, MAKEUP: NICOLA GAVINS, PHOTO: SEANN CHILDS

Do......................

➺Don’t..................

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nails

Generation Next? Industry experts show us three new innovations in nail design… and, trust us, it’s forward-thinking By Valerie Lam

1 Polish

salon > october 12

2 Nail Design

Nail art is all the rage, and companies like Dashing Diva are finding time-saving, results-guaranteed ways to provide stylish, in-demand designs in the salon that don’t require freehand each time. DesignFX is a pattern-pretty variety of designs that can elevate nail design with either a full accent nail, cut-out half-moon or whatever creative design a nail tech fancies. “The advantage of DesignFX is that it provides clients with nail art that isn’t time-consuming, and that’s cost-saving in the end,” says Anna Lee, marketing director at Dashing Diva. “It’s an easy add-on service for salons.” For longerlasting designs, a gel overlay can also be applied. For sophisticated nail design, Dashing Diva also offers the French Nail Wrap Plus in traditional white and a range of 12 colours. Nail techs apply the French nail tip to the smile line for a clean, easy, always perfect tip. Once the housing is clipped off, the tip is filed onto the nail and finished with buffing and a sealing top coat or polish for a modern look.

3 Gel

In an age when gel nail services are accelerating, manufacturers have been testing and innovating better products, after hearing client’s complaints and comments. Cuccio Colour Veneer is a new formula to enter the industry, which promises a technology of true colour. “It’s triplepigmented so nail techs don’t have to shake and stir the bottle really hard to make sure the product is mixed before putting it on,” says Kim Tanner, president of Kim Tanner and Associates. “When you pull the brush out of the bottle, the colour you pull out is the colour that’s going to be on all the nails.” Veneers is also made with a 100 per cent polish-free formula. “This means it’s a more stabilized formula, which means it won’t thicken in the bottle, nor will it evaporate, harden or yellow,” says Tanner. “The bottle is specially designed to be wider on the top to avoid clumping at the bottom,” adds Elaine Watson, VP of marketing and sales and global education director at Star Nail International. When applying the product, it goes on thin like polish, and since there is no paint, Veneer acts as a pure gel that feels like polish. S

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seche product photo: chris tsintziras, bottom photo: courtesy of dashing diva, colour veneer product photo: courtesy of cuccio, opposite page: photos: chris tsintziras, courtesy of cnd, essie, orly

Seche has been a long-time industry player in natural nail care with Seche Vite, one of its most popular products. “Previously, we had thought about entering the market with lacquer colours that were sheer, almost like a French,” says Rachel Schafer, brand manager at American International Industries. “But now it's even more timely for Seche to introduce lacquer because nail colour is so hot. With lacquers, clients have the flexibility to change their colour without committing to one shade for weeks.” Seche Nail Lacquer is the new line of highintensity nail lacquers that are made with the same commitment to quality as the industry has seen with Seche Vite top coat. The pigment of the lacquers is similar to Vite in viscosity, promising richer colour with fewer layers to paint on. “We listened to what clients like about Vite, and it’s the quick drying time and quality,” says Schafer. “The Seche woman is modern, mature and sophisticated, so we gave her a lacquer line that provides immediate colour and dries quickly. The range of colour is also very compatible and classic.”

NAILS

Head-to-Toe Pretty Indulge your clients with these hot products, just in time for the holidays

For clients looking for deep rejuvenation and cleansing, SpaRitual offers a trio of solutions: a Clay Masque made with red earth clay and ginger root, a Sand Scrub formulated with black and white sands and a Body Butter infused with a fruity blend of vitamins.

Clients can party until the twelfth day of Christmas with the China Glaze Holiday Joy collection, twelve jingle-worthy shades that sparkle, gleam, and radiate richly.

LCN offers a magnetic nail experience for clients in four chic new shades from the Mystique Burlesque collection, along with four magnet designs. This is LCN’s introductory magnetic soak-off gel polish in the Recolution system.

With regal elegance and ease comes the new Winter collection by Essie, six fully saturated colours with a bit of glitz and a lot of confidence. Made for a leading lady, let clients pick out their pretty poison. Find a shade for every woman who walks into your salon with Artistic Nail Design’s personalityinspired fall collection. Clients can wear the colours on their own, or mix the shades for a multifaceted result, just like a woman.

CND’s trusty SolarOil comes back in a new scent for the holidays in a blend of heliotrope, soft vanilla with base notes of golden amber. Also available in a mini kit, this might be the perfect retail gift for your best clients.

salonmagazine.ca

Six merry-makers come in Orly’s holiday collection, Naughty or Nice. Let clients play the roles in deep hues of rouge, a brilliant blue, and starlight sparkles.

october 12 < salon

esthetics

➺

Why the Need for Speed?

➺

What’s on the Express Menu?

How two salon and spas are succeeding in offering express services By Valerie Lam

Ritual Hair Skin Beauty, Toronto, Co-owners Maria Cristina Faccio and Bruna DiCecca

Hair, Body and Soul, Owen Sound, Ont. Owner Tonya Miller

Merging into one location from a two-site location, Ritual is the one-stop shop for all things beauty. “Being an all-in-one is a huge benefit for our busy customers, who don’t want to make numerous appointments, pay for parking and truck around town for everything they need,” says Faccio. “People don’t have time, and they want maintenance and in-and-out beauty.”

“We’re transferring the spa services into the salon because we live in a fastpaced world, and clients are looking for quick services that have benefits as well,” explains Miller. “A lot of us aren’t taking the time to have full onehour services, so we’re trying to multiservice and do many treatments at the same time.” It's not uncommon to see multitasking in action, making the most of the waiting time involved with certain services. "It could be a brown tint or waxing done while the colour is processing," says Miller.

Every service can be made into an express experience, except for waxing, which is quick as is: manicure, pedicure, facials and treatments, massages, eye makeup, blowouts. “Waxing is really popular here since we get it done so quickly,” adds Faccio.

A variety of services can be offered as an express experience, including fullservice hair treatments, colour, facials, brow tint and waxing. For example, “The Repêchage trio offers a hair treatment with the line, and while that is processing, clients can receive a facial. While the facial is applied, we’ll also provide a hand treatment,” says Miller. “All this happens in 30 minutes.”

➺

Challenges “If there’s one aspect in express services that

➺

Strategies

➺

needs attention, it is quality,” says Faccio. All staff are trained to provide services the Ritual way— it’s not enough that estheticians can give killer manis, they also have to give killer Ritual manis. There’s a strict screening process that employees go through to ensure they hire highly qualified professionals who get along well with the team.

Introducing or “transitioning” clients between salon and spa services can be challenging. Retraining staff to provide quicker treatments and services with the same quality is also a learning curve. "Our estheticians are used to doing the hour-long facial and setting up the facial bar, but it's a different atmosphere in an express environment," says Miller. "We provide training and encourage exchange between spa and hair clients. This also educates clients to spa services. If you're not marketing and showing them, they won't know."

“We don’t consider ourselves a luxury salon and spa, like a hotel that can change high prices. We depend on volume to raise the bottom line. You want to get as many people into the salon as possible in order to offer services at affordable prices,” says Faccio. Online booking is also a helpful and convenient tool, so clients can make appointments wherever and whenever they wish.

Taking stock of the square footage in the salon, Miller offers some spa services in the larger salon room in an openconcept format. “This way, clients are intrigued at what’s going on in the same room. The ones who have never seen a facial are now seeing it processing on a client. It’s a great way to market esthetic services to hair clients and vice versa,” says Miller. Estheticians are able to grow their business through hair clients, as well. S

Bring the express spa home

In between appointments, help clients keep skin smooth with a quick microwavable hair removal kit. The Clean+Easy Microwave Wax Kit is a gentle wax system available for all skin types, with a separate formula for sensitive skin. The hair removal kit includes a pre-wax cleanser, after-wax remover, aloe vera gel and moisturizing therapy lotion.

salon > october 12

photos courtesy of ritual hair skin beauty, hair, body and soul, product photo: chris tsintziras

Make it Quick

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newnew Salon Magazine appapp for for your iPhone for for free! GetGet thethe brand Salon Magazine your iPhone free! Browse the latest collections and keep up with industry news. Check event listings, listings, watch watch videos, videos plus get the latest Contessa details–all at your fingertips. ﬁngertips. Share what you discover on your Facebook or Twitter account. Now available on iTunes. *Non iPhone users can now view a mobile friendly version of our website too!

PHOTOS: CONTESSA 22 WINNERS. FOR FULL CREDITS SEE PAGE 88.

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INTERIORS

salon > october 12

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COLOUR LAB 12

salonmagazine.ca

Colour Show 1. The Hair Master provides colour accelerating technology where infrared light is emitted to open up the cuticle. The machine can also customize colour treatment according to a client's length and texture. 2. Inspiring quotes about colour weave through the salon, next to a proud display of colour bottles. “We do not mysteriously hide the mixing station in the back. It also shows how clean we are when mixing, no colour stains or dirty bowls lying around here! “ says Raphael. 3.Nestled in downtown Toronto's Rosedale neighbourhood, Colour Lab hopes to attract both the “lady who lunches” and the busy client who “doesn’t want the wallet to shed a tear,” explains Raphael. 4. "Heather had the chandelier custom-made by a European artist, which is made from glass test tubes filled with food colouring and water," says Raphael.

A new colour-only salon in Toronto offers a service as exact as the shade desired By Valerie Lam

s colourists know, producing a true hue is more than a paint chip selected off a rainbow. “We are extremely dedicated to the perfection of hair colour, and we display the intermixable colour bottles on the shelves, so that clients can see how much work is involved in creating their tone,” says Raphael Ness Azran, master colourist. At Colour Lab12, the tight team runs an operation with four chairs, one blow-dry station and a shampoo station. “It’s a small space, but it serves all the purposes we need!” says Raphael. “We enjoy having a small team who can converse about each formula to better serve our customers.” Together with his parents, Jean-Charles and Heather, the family has been in the industry for 60 years. Jean-Charles also owns Estetica Montreal and Jean-Charles Salon in Toronto and has been featured on a CBC documentary, Hairstyle Confidential. In an urban environment, time is of the essence and the staff at Colour Lab12 have reconfigured the way clients book a colour by functioning as a drop-in service, rather than asking clients to squeeze appointments around a colourist’s schedule. "We really want to revolutionize the colour service so that clients can be educated about the craft," says Raphael, who encourages colourists to explain the colour process to clients. Of the self-service blow-dry station, he says, “It's less about the pampering and more about coming in for affordabe, quality colour so clients can get on with their day.” S The Specs

Staff

Brands

Owners: Jean-Charles, Heather and Raphael Ness Azran

4 Colourists

Goldwell KMS California Colour Lab

Location: Toronto

Website colourlabsalon.ca

Space: 240-sq.ft. salonmagazine.ca

october 12 < salon

Humber student work

LEARN A COMBINATION OF BUSINESS AND BEAUTY

COSMETIC MANAGEMENT DIPLOMA ESTHETICIAN/SPA AND FASHION MANAGEMENT DIPLOMAS OFFERED AS WELL AS 10 DEGREES OF CHOICE* *View all business diploma and degree programs at business.humber.ca

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get your hands in Beauty

looking for a beautiful career?

photos: thinkstock

f your dreams are made of highlighting foils, Japanese shears, or massage oils, it might be time to head in the right direction and enroll in cosmetology school. According to the 2011 mid-year review by the U.S.-based Professional Beauty Association (PBA), a record 34 per cent of salon/spa owners said they added employees between the first quarters of 2010 and 2011, and student membership in the PBA more than doubled in the first half of 2011.

But where do you start? The choices may seem vast when considering a professional beauty school, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be overwhelmed. Take the time to look at the school offerings and identify a program that suits your interests. Research and compare academies that link with top salons to put theory into practice. Associations, like Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Allied Beauty Association, are also a great resource to rub shoulders with the best in the business and learn how to succeed in the beauty world.

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At the Aveda Institute Canada, learn cutting-edge curriculum within an environmentally responsible culture and gain valuable salon experience from highly trained educators. Within Aveda’s global network of 7,000+ salons/spas and our 95% jobplacement rate, the professional opportunities are endless. Call 1-877-90-AVEDA to book a tour. Find us in Toronto, Calgary, Vancouver and Winnipeg. Visit www.avedainstitute.ca.

STEP IT UP

hen you look at the careers of great hairstylists like Tony Ricci, Anna Pacitto and Damien Carney, they all have something in common. They are brilliant educators, in addition to being experts in what they do. And they no doubt had great educators and mentors who helped them to get where they are today. Along with dedication, education is invaluable in refining your skills and taking your career to the next level. Whether you’re a junior stylist eager to advance in the salon, a makeup artist who’d like to be booked solid, or a beauty therapist curious about medical skin care, you can find a program that will boost your skills and your confidence. Think about it like this: continuing education is an investment. When Salon Magazine interviewed spa owners for a story about how they succeeded in 2011, a year that was challenging for many businesses, a majority touted the benefits of education. It is essential for keeping on top of trends, offering top-of-the-line services and retaining clients. Talk to your salon team or fellow stylists about your goals and ask what courses would improve the team’s overall performance. After all, the sum is greater than its parts! Discover how continued learning can help your salon stand out in town.

Ignite your creative passion. Donato Academy of Hairstyling and Aesthetics, a Sassoon Academy School Connection school, offers progressive, fashion-forward fulland part-time hairstyling programs encompassing theory and practical elements. Inherit sound skills and business savvy, essential to becoming a successful hairstylist. Donato Academy, a private career college, prepares you for your future career. 416.252.8999 3253 Lake Shore Blvd. W., Toronto www.donatoacademy.com EvelineCharles Academy’s advanced technical training, business instruction and stateof-the-art facilities in both Edmonton and Calgary make it one of Canada’s most renowned beauty schools. Part-time, evening and full-time Hair Design and Esthetics programs are available. The curriculum incorporates NAIT Business Management courses, and the school is ITEC certified to ensure student success. 877.709.5672, www.ECacademy.com

BECOME A PROFESSIONAL

Follow your passion for beauty at Gina’s College. With more than 30 years’ experience graduating top beauty professionals, we know what it takes to succeed in this industry— state-of-the-art facilities and equipment, passionate instructors and an industry-leading curriculum. Our new hairstyling program in Waterloo, Ont., is being called the region’s best. Join our legacy of success today! Waterloo 519.886.2998; Mississauga 905.602.8891; Ottawa 613.789.7875 www.ginascollege.com

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The Cosmetic Management program will introduce you to the cosmetic industry with a specific focus on market and manufacturing trends in the cosmetic and fragrance sectors. This 3 semester diploma program encompasses aspects of retailing, merchandising, marketing and sales, make-up application, as well as the skills necessary for running an independent business. 416.675.6622, www.business.humber.ca MC College is Canada’s leading educator in hair and esthetics. With student education as our core business, MC College offers the industry’s leading curriculum utilizing the latest technology including online learning. Using Pivot Point’s educational tools, MC College delivers comprehensive training that combines technical and non-technical skills to ensure graduate success in the salon and spa industry. With campuses across Western Canada, at MC College your potential is our passion. www.mccollege.ca Educate, elevate, motivate with Robin Barker. Bring him into your salon. Considered by many to be the most creative master teacher. “Without doubt, one of the most original and creative minds in Toronto,” Jeanne Beker, Fashion Television. “I owe all my success to the Robin Barker cutting techniques,” Jeff Robbins, Owen Sound, Ont. “He is a wealth of knowledge within his craft,” Maurice Tidy, The Original Vidal Sassoon artist. Consulting@robinbarker.ca, www.robinbarker.ca, 866.960.5545 The global network of ASK Education Academies brings together a world of creative thinking. Toronto’s ASK Academy stands alongside affiliate academies in Germany, Spain, England, Japan and Greece. The expansive 7,200 square foot space features eighteen styling stations, theory and practical rooms, in a modern open-concept design. Contact the ASK Academy for further inquiries and registration for the fall line-up. To view a complete list of seminars, please visit www.schwarzkopf–professional.ca or call 416-340-1562.

Career opportunities available at Canada’s leading educator in hair, esthetics and fashion design.

Email resumes to hr@mccollege.ca

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SCOOP

John Heffner Joins OPI as President and General Manager John Heffner has joined OPI Products Inc. as the brand’s new president and general manager. George Schaeffer remains founder and CEO and Suzi Weiss-Fischmann retains her title as EVP and artistic director. “In welcoming John, Suzi and I will be able to increase our focus on growing the brand both from an innovative standpoint and in new markets,” says Schaeffer.

HIgh-end salon make-up line Mirabella is now available in three provinces. Previously available at Summit Salon Service Inc. in Alberta, Mirabella is now also distributed by Alternative Beauty Services in Ontario and Concept JP Inc. in Quebec.

2012-2013 Buyers’ Guide Updates Distributors Alternative beauty services

1680 Courtney Park Drive, Unit 9, Mississauga, ON L5T 1R4 ph. 905-670-0611, 866-592-0048 fx. 905-670-6040 email: orders4abs@alternativebeauty.ca website: www.alternativebeauty.ca Brands/Products: Redken, Sexy Hair Concepts, Tressa, Onesta Haircare, Spa Ritual, Repechage, Mirabella Cosmetics, Hotheads, Dannyco, Kasho Shears, Panther, Ego, Black 15in1, Keratin Express, Hot Tools, Artistic Nail Design, Lashfood, Footlogix, Gigi, Loop and Lock, Hair Affair

Cosmiprof

216 Beaumont Crescent, Kitchener, ON N2A 0A8 ph. 519-893-7883, 800-898-8733 fx. 519-893-7903 email: info@cosmiprof.com website: www.cosmiprof.com Brands/Products: Australian Bodycare, Aaron & Alex pure formulas, Bibalo Baby products, Blazek Glass Nail Files, Vajaja Visor

Mountain beauty & Esthetic supply

72 Simcoe Street N, Oshawa, ON L1G 4S2 ph. 905-728-9958, 877-537-2607 fx. 905-728-4432 email: info@mountainbeautyesthetics.com website: www.mbesthetics.com Brands/Products: Dikson, I-ColourISO, Wella, Quantum, bain de terre, Nisim, ChinaGlaze, Gigi, IBD, DannycoBabyliss, Global Salon Furniture

Mountain beauty & Esthetic supply (branch location)

402 Concession Street, Hamilton, ON L9A 1B7 ph. 905-388-2181, 877-208-4668 fx. 905-388-2181 email: info@mountainbeautyesthetics.com website: www.mbesthetics.com Brands/Products: Dikson, I-ColourISO, Wella, Quantum, bain de terre, Nisim, ChinaGlaze, IBD, Gigi, DannycoBabyliss, Global Salon Furniture

MANuFACturErs backstage Commerce inc.

1350 Mazurette, Suite 104, Montreal, QC H4N 1H2

salon > october 12

ph. 514-381-5555 fx. 514-381-6550 email: jvmorello@backstagecommerce.ca website: www.backstagecommerce.ca Brands/Products: Hair Treats Distributors: BC-Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd., Modern Beauty Supplies Inc.; AB-Modern Beauty Supplies; ON-Radiant Beauty Supplies; QC-Ami-co, Cantin Beauté Ltée, Distribution Dazco; NL-O’Regan Agencies Ltd.

Calgel organic Nail system

620 Alexis Nihon Boulevard, Montreal QC H4M 2B2 ph. 514-747-7622, 888-435-6397 email: linda@calgelquebec.com website: www.calgelcanada.com, www.calgelcanada.ca Brands/Products: Calgel Organic Nail System, UV lamps & Ocius Bulbs, Manicure & Pedicure Stainless Steel Instruments, M.B.I. Lint Free Nail Wipes, Cotton Rolls, Calgard Disinfectant Solution, Calaway Melt Off Solution, Calcleanse Non-Acetone Polish Remover, Sable Gel Brushes, Sponge Boards Distributor: Self-distributed across Canada

CND

1125 Joshua Way, Vista, CA 92081 ph. 760-599-2900 fx. 760-599-4007 website: www.cnd.com Brands/Products: Brisa™, Scentsations™, SpaManicure™, SpaPedicure™, SolarOil™, Colour & Effects, Shellac™, Additives Distributors: BC-CosmoProf, Kingdom Beauty Supply, Europe Cosmetics, Secret Beauty; AB-CosmoProf, Purple Beauty, Beauty Canada Distribution; SK-CosmoProf, Salon Centre, Can-West Agencies; ON-CosmoProf, Intercosmetics, Classique Nail & Beauty, Nails R Us, Europe Cosmetics, Salon Centre; QC-Chalut, Derme.ca; NB-Maritime Beauty Supply Co. Ltd.; NS-Maritime Beauty Supply Co. Ltd.; PEI-Maritime Beauty Supply Co. Ltd.

Essie

1500 University Street, Suite 600, Montreal QC H3A 3S7 ph. 877-309-8619 fx. 514-842-8715 website: www.essie.com Brands/Products: Nail polish, Lacquers, Treatments and Solutions

Distributors: BC-Kingdom Beauty Supply, ABSK-MB-ESP Salon Sales, ON-Can-Rad Beauty Ltd., Trade Secrets/Glamour Secrets; QC- AMI-Co.; NL-O’Keefe Agencies

John Paul Mitchell systems

1888 Century Park East, Suite 1600, Century City, CA 90067 ph. 310-248-3888, 800-793-8790 fx. 310-7720048 email: wecare@jpms.com website: www.paulmitchell.com Brands/Products: Paul Mitchell, Tea Tree, Modern Elixirs, Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color, Paul Mitchell Pro Tools, Awapuhi, Mitch Distributors: AB-ESP Salon Sales; SK-ESP Salon Sales; MB-ESP Salon Sales; ON-Alternative Beauty Services, Beauty System Group Canada, Can-Rad Beauty Ltd, ESP Salon Sales, Radiant Beauty Supplies; QC-Guay Beauté; NL-O’Regan Agencies Ltd.

Kerastraight North America inc.

1350 Mazurette, Suite 104, Montreal, QC H4N 1H2 ph. 514-381-5555 fx. 514-381-6550 email: jvmorello@backstagecommerce.ca Brands/Products: KeraStraight Distributors: BC-West Coast Beauty Supply; AB-International Beauty Services; SK-Salon Centre; MB-Salon Centre; ON-BAZ Beauty Solutions, Central Beauty Supply Ltd.; QC-Ami-co, Cantin Beauté Ltée, Distribution Dazco; NB-Maritime Beauty Supplu Co. Ltd; PEI-Maritime Beauty Supply Co. Ltd.; NLO’Regan Agencies Ltd.

Nioxin

5800 Avebury Road, 1, Mississauga, ON L5R 3M3 ph. 905-568-2494, 800-41-WELLA fx. 905568-2744 website: www.nioxin.com Brands/Products: Nioxin, Diamax Distributors: BC-CosmoProf; AB-CosmoProf; SK-CosmoProf Beauty Systems; MB-Cosmoprof; ON-Beauty System Group Canada; Venus Beauty Supplies; QC-Beauté Star-Bédard Inc; NSCosmoprof; NL-O’Keefe Agencies

P&G salon Professional Canada

5800 Avebury Road, 1, Mississauga, ON L5R 3M3 ph. 905-568-2494, 800-41-WELLA fx. 905568-2744 website: www.wellausa.com Brands/Products: Wella Professional, Sebastian Professional, Nioxin Distributors: BC-CosmoProf;AB-CosmoProf; SK-CosmoProf Beauty Systems; MB-Cosmoprof; ON-Advance Beauty & Esthetic Supply Ltd., Beauty System Group Canada; QC-Ami-co, Cantin Beauté Ltée, Jean Julien Ltée; NS-Cosmoprof; NL-O’Keefe Agencies

sebastian Professional

5800 Avebury Road, 1, Mississauga, ON L5R 3M3 ph. 905-568-2494, 800-41-WELLA, 800-267-1962 website: www.sebastianprofessional.com Brands/Products: Sebastian Professional Distributors: BC-CosmoProf; AB-CosmoProf; SK-CosmoProf Beauty Systems; MB-Cosmoprof; ON-Advance Beauty & Esthetic Supply Ltd., Beauty System Group Canada;QC-Ami-Co, Cantin Beauté Ltée, Jean Julien Ltée; NS-Cosmoprof; NL-O’Keefe Agencies

Wella Canada inc.

5800 Avebury Road, 1, Mississauga, ON L5R 3M3 ph. 905-568-2494 x202, 800-41-WELLA fx. 905-568-2744 email: wella@sympatico.ca website: www.wellausa.com Brands/Products: Color Touch® Demi Haircolor, Color Charm®, Koleston Perfect® Permanent Color, Blondor® Lighteners, Wella Professionals Care & Styling, Color Perfect® Distributors: BC-CosmoProf; AB-CosmoProf; SK-CosmoProf Beauty Systems; MB-Cosmoprof; ON-Advance Beauty & Esthetic Supply Ltd., Beauty System Group Canada; QC-Ami-co, Cantin Beauté Ltée, Jean Julien Ltée; NS-Cosmoprof; NL-O’Keefe Agencies

photo courtesy of mirabella, aNDis

Three New Canadian Distributors of Mirabella

Toast to Andis This year, Andis Co. is celebrating its 90th anniversary, now run by the fourth generation of the Andis family. Founded by Matthew Andis Sr., the manufacturer of the barbering tool has grown globally with an extensive range of appliances and products now available in 90 countries. Happy anniversary and many more to come!

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Beautynet.com pg 95 ........................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.beautynet.com Calgel Organic Nail System pg 91 ....................888-435-6397 ........................ www.calgelcanada.ca China Glaze Magnetix II pg 29 .........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com Contessa 24 pg 68-69 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salonmagazine.ca Cuccio Naturale pg 51 ......................................800-762-6245 ........................ www.cosmoprofbeauty.com Dashing Diva DesignFX pg 41 ..........................866-665-3482 ....................... www.dashingdivapro.com Dashing Diva French Manicure pg 65 ..............866-665-3482 ....................... www.dashingdivapro.com Pivot Point pg 85 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca MC College pg 85 ..............................................888-314-7965 ........................ www.mccollege.ca Elevate Magazine pg 18 ....................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.elevatemagazine.com

Ms. o Mr. I’veoenclosed a cheque payable to: Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Salon Communications Inc. Bill my o VISA Card o AMEX Card Surname _______________________________________

Eufora Beautifying Elixirs pg 23 ......................800-6EUFORA ....................... www.eufora.net

______________________________________________ Title ___________________________________________

Gigi Spa All Purpose Honee pg 99 ...................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com

Business Name____________________________________ ______________________________________________ expiry date Address ___________________________Suite _________ ______________________________________________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________ cardholder ’s name

Goldwell Nectaya pg 19 ...................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwell-northamerica.com

Phone _________________________________________ o Mr. o Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Email__________________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Website ________________________________________ TitlePlease ___________________________________________ o email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free

Hot Tools Beauty Skins pg 45 ..........................800-487-8432 ........................ www.hottools.com

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o PleaseName send____________________________________ me periodic offers from related companies Business Address ___________________________Suite _________ Section B City ___ PC _____________ How____________________ would you classify thisProvlocation? o Salon o Spa o School Phone _________________________________________ o Manufacturer o Distributor o Franchise Email __________________________________________ o Freelance o Home Based Website ________________________________________ o One of multiple locations with the same owner o Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free o Other (specify) ______________________ o Please send me periodic offers from related companies # of Employees Section B ____

What services provided? How would youare classify this location? o Hair Care o o Nail Care o Salon oSkin Spa Care o School o Removal o Treatments o Tanning o Hair Manufacturer oSpa Distributor o Franchise o (specify) o______________________ o Other Freelance Home Based ___________________________________ o One of multiple locations with the same owner o Other (specify) What do you do? ______________________ Owner o Manager #oofCo-owner Employeeso____ o Hairstylist o Nail Technician o Electrologist What services o areEsthetician provided? o Colourist o Laser Technician o Hair Care o Skin Care o Nail Care o Other (specify) ______________________ o Hair Removal o Spa Treatments o Tanning ___________________________________ o Other (specify) ______________________ fax form To: (905) 729-4432 ___________________________________ mail form To:

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Essie Winter Collection 2012 pg 33 .................877-309-8619 ........................ www.essie.com

Great Lengths pg 12-13 ....................................800-268-2242 ........................ www.greatlengthscanada.com Hairapalooza pg 90 ...........................................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

IBD Beauty Just Gel Polish pg 63 ....................800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com International Beauty Services pg 93.................800-642-3818 ISSE 2012 pg 73 ................................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.probeauty.org/issemw Joico Vero K-Pak pg 100 ..................................877-426-2590 ........................ www.joico.com Kevin.Murphy Blonde.Angel pg 24 ..................800-387-2962 ........................ www.kevinmurphy.com.au LCN Colour System pg 71 ................................888-859-3434 ........................ www.lcn.ca Malibu C pg 21 ..................................................800-622-7332 ........................ www.malibuc.com/prof Matrix Gloss Sync pg 2-3 .................................888-935-1885 ........................ www.matrix.com Mixed Chicks pg 59 ...........................................877-888-0480 ........................ www.mixedchicks.net MyHairdressers.com pg 87 .............................................................................. www.myhairdressers.com Nail Harmony Artistic pg 75 ........................................................................... www.artisticnaildesign.com Nail Harmony Gelish pg 37 ............................................................................. www.gelish.com OPI GelColor pg 15 ...........................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Oster Professional pg 61 ................................................................................. www.osterstyle.com Redken Chromatics pg 17................................866-973-3536 ........................ www.redken.ca Redken EQ Shades pg 31 .................................866-973-3536 ........................ www.redken.ca Revlon Professional Revlonissimo pg 6-7 .......800-387-7980 Salon Mobile App pg 79 ....................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salonmagazine.ca Schwarzkopf Blond Me pg 4-5 .........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Bonacure pg 10-11 ....................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Professional Shine pg 8-9...............800-267-1962 ........................ www.sebastianprofessional.com/shine Soma Hair Technology pg 94 ............................866-843-2257 ........................ www.somaorganics.com SPARitual In Pink Collection pg 35 ..................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Uans Crema pg 92 ...........................................800-461-8267 ........................ www.uans.com/crema Credits from page 79: Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, AB, Makeup: Sevan Tatoulian, Photo: Ara Sassoonian Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal, QC, Makeup: Jessica Manzo & Julie Chabot, Photos: Carl Lessard Gian Paolo Colombo, Hairafter Salon & Spa, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon, SK, Makeup: Uyen Huynh, Photos: Gina Yesnik Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Boriana Karan, Photos: Marek Szkudlarek Sylvain Bellerose, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, BC, Makeup: Jon Hennessey, Photos: Philip Jarmain

12-07-31 4:18 PM

salonmagazine.ca

EVENTS

Mirabella Rendezvous on the Rooftop WHAT: Mirabella introduced members of the media to the world of ultra-luxe mineral cosmetics. The high-end brand can be used for all occasions from a girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first night out to the mother-of-the-bride on a wedding day. Education in mineral makeup was presented in a short film, Holiday Escape, inspired by Roman Holiday. Holiday Escape will be divided into segments for an online video series highlighting tips for makeup application and artistry. HOW: The elegant party was held at The London hotel, with the mood of a holiday getaway surrounded by beautiful palm trees, a dance floor, good food, music and a cool vibe. WHEN & WHERE: August 14 in West Hollywood, Calif. PHOTOS COURTESY OF PRESTON RICHARDSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Fantastic Hair at Goldwell East Coast Competition WHAT: Contessa winner Timothy Switzer and Nadara Budden, KAO Canada sales education manager for Atlantic Canada, hosted Goldwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fantasy Competition for East Coast hairstylists in honour of Juan Perez, a long-time stylist who recently passed away after a battle with cancer. Proceeds were donated to the Dr. H. Bliss Murphy Cancer Foundation. Nine teams competed and more than 300 stylists attended the event. HIGHLIGHTS: Congratulations to the winners! First Place: Hair Connection Second Place: Athena By Anstey Third Place: The Signature Salon WHEN & WHERE: August 5 in St. Johns, N.L. PHOTOS COURTESY OF TERRY RICE salonmagazine.ca

soctober 12 < salon

EVENTS

Day and Night Salon Opens its Doors WHAT: The grand opening of Day and Night Salon—a salon by day and a cool event space by night that's perfect for launches and parties. The big unveiling included local catering by Snacks, a DJ and a host of friends and colleagues. WHO: John Steinberg hairstyling protege Chanel Croker and fellow stylists Nikki Pereira and Benjamin Raine. SOUNDBITE: “Opening my own salon was part of the general feeling that I was ready to move on—a natural evolution building from my experience at John Steinberg,” says Croker. “John inspired me to be an eclectic person, and I never felt threatened trying something new.” WHEN & WHERE: July 26 in Toronto PHOTOS: MARK SOMMERFELD AND VALERIE LAM

World’s Finest LIVE Cut & Colour Competition 3 Categories:

NEW TALENT PROFESSIONAL NEW MEN'S CUTTING CATEGORY MONTREAL, QC 30 September 2012 TORONTO, ON 21 October 2012 (Lesley Lawson, Schwarzkopf Professional Global Colour Ambassador)

CALGARY, AB 04 November 2012 905.816.4629

salon > october 12

salonmagazine.ca

Tony Chaar Salon Celebrates Hair & Fashion WHAT: A night to celebrate Tony Chaar and his influence on the industry, as well as unveil the interior renovations of the salon. The lineup for the evening included an electric violin performance by Dr. Draw and a fashion show with flashbacks to each iconic era in hair and styling, curated by Salem Moussallam from REmix Clothing. WHO: Schwarzkopf Professional sponsored the party, and humid summer temperatures didn’t stop a steady stream of guests. That included friends, mentors, industry peers and family members—“the people who are most important in my life,” says Chaar. WHEN & WHERE: August 16 in Toronto PHOTOS: YANA KAZ AND VALERIE LAM

salonmagazine.ca

soctober 12 < salon

EVENTS

still unbeatable and still without argan oil

Venus Sales Reps Win Big with Moroccanoil WHAT: Congratulations to the Venus Beauty Supplies Ltd. team for its wins at Moroccanoilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Annual Distributor Event at Cosmoprof. Twelve distributor reps from across North America qualified for the competition, five of which were from Venus. WHO: Diana Hamilton was named the top North American business consultant and won a 2013 BMW. Anthony Anania won an allexpenses-paid trip for two to Israel. Nicole Lamarche, Aldo Anania and Frank Caputo all won gift certificates for flat screen TVs. WHEN & WHERE: July 23 in Las Vegas

Crema by UANSÂŽ THE ORIGINAL

Hand and Nail Harmony International Training WHAT: For the first time, Hand and Nail Harmony has hosted a four-day international training seminar. Topics included developing skills for education, hands-on training with Gelish and creating acrylic sculpted nails and fusion acrylics.

try for yourself at uans.com/crema 1-800-461-8267 92

salon > october 12

WHO: Educators included U.S. dean of education, MaeLing Parish, European director of education, Anthony Buckley, West Coast regional education manager Sandy Combs. Trainees came from 24 countries, including the U.K., Bulgaria, Italy and Taiwan, and included 10 Canadian attendees. WHEN & WHERE: August 2012 in Brea, Calif. PHOTOS COURTESY OF HAND AND NAIL HARMONY salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 10/12 The Gathering Brings JPMS Stylists Together

Ad Size 3.75”W x 10” H

WHAT: The Paul Mitchell Gathering, a two-day conference with 17 hands-on classes and inspiring stage shows.

WHO: The event included 3,500 hairstylists and salon owners at the ARIA Resort in Las Vegas. The grand opening and finale shows were also livestreamed, so hairstylists all over the globe could join in the Gathering. WHEN & WHERE: July 16 -17 in Las Vegas PHOTOS COURTESY OF JOHN PAUL MITCHELL

Photo coutesy L’Oréal Professionnel

INTERNATIONAL

BEAUTY SERVICES Giving Salons The Best in Education & Service SASKATCHEWAN ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon Edmonton (306) 343-3398 (780) 454-3388

MANITOBA 1644 St James St. Winnipeg (204) 783-8878

11 Stores to Serve You

Order Desk 1-800-642-3818 L’Oréal Professionnel • PureOlogy • Matrix • Logics Alterna • Kevin Murphy • DS Laboratories • Lakmé Tressa • Babe • Dannyco • Ego • Kasho • One Styling Bioelements • OPI • SpaRitual salonmagazine.ca

october 12 < salon

EVENTS

OCTOBER 2012

Soma Complete Colour • Deposit Only, Permanent Color • No Fading • Absolutely No Lift • No Ammonia • No MEA • Keratin Protein Enriched • Sunﬂower Oil delivery system

PREMIERE BEAUTY CLASSIC October 7 – 8 Greater Columbus Convention Center Columbus, Ohio Info: biztradeshows.com COLOR ZOOM October 12 – 16 ExCel London London, England Info: colorzoom12.com SALON INTERNATIONAL October 13 – 15 ExCel London London, England Info: salonexhibitions.co.uk ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW October 14 Royal Albert Hall London, England Info: royalalberthall.com MILANO EXCHANGE October 14 - 15 Fallsview Casino Resort Niagara Falls, Ont. Info: mx.milanosoftware.com

BEFORE AFTER

GRAY COVERAGE

HAIRAPALOOZA TORONTO October 21 Kool Haus Toronto Info: 905.624.0470

Formula: Highlights with lightener and 20 volume developer Base and low lights 6N and 10 volume developer

BEFORE AFTER

FASHION COLOR

Formula: Equal parts 4R & 4RV and 20 volume developer

BEFORE AFTER

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

LOW LIGHTS

Formula: 4G and 10 volume developer

CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466

BEFORE AFTER

Perfect for: • Gray coverage • Blonde toning • Low lights • Fashion tones

PREMIERE BIRMINGHAM October 21 – 22 Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, Ala. Info: premierebirminghamshow.biz

BLONDE TONER

Formula: Equal parts 10A & 10N and 10 volume developer

GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767

GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact local SKP distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Euronatural Hair Extensions Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CALGEL CANADA Info: calgelcanada.ca or 514.747.7622 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or 800.557.3223 STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997 S

Distributed by Soma Hair Technology| Sterling, Illinois 61081 | 1.866.843.2257 | www.somaorganics.com

salon > october 12

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See the Contessa semi-finalists: Pgs 66-67

High Profile Yorkville Salon Low price to keep name. Great opportunity for busy stylist. Seller will work 3 days, will mentor purchaser. All enquiries confidential. Contact: yorkville.salon@gmail.com september 12 < salon

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last look

Know Your Colour Blonde-haired heads have more strands of hair than red- or dark-haired heads. Blondes have approximately 140,000 hairs compared with 108,000 for their darker counterparts.

9 33% %

of women in North America with naturally blonde hair

Hair Dye THrougH THe ages • In Africa, tribes women would coat their hair in a red clay mix to add highlights. • Ancient Gauls and Saxons dyed their hair with different vibrant colours to show rank and to instill fear in enemies on the battlefield. • Babylonian men sprinkled gold dust on their hair. • By the time of the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans,

of women in North America colour their hair blonde

plant and animal extracts were being used on a regular basis

‘‘

to colour hair. The very first mixtures could only darken the hair, but later different methods were found to bleach the hair

blonde, often by exposing the painted hair to sunlight.

You have to be a smart brunette to play a dumb blonde.” —Natural brunette Marilyn Monroe on being a blonde

with a mixture of peroxide, household bleach, soap flakes and ammonia until it fell out and she was forced to wear a wig.

1500s

Hair Colour: A Time Line

1200s Some Egyptians use natural dyes to darken hair, such as kohl and henna, while others wear wigs to alter hair colour, including Cleopatra.

100s

Claudius Galen, the most famous doctor in the Roman Empire, precisely described a formula to dye hair black. In 2006, scientists replicated his formula and found that not only does it work, but that is also similar to some current-day products.

Queen Elizabeth I redefines the standard of beauty in the Western World with her red hair and fair skin. Women all over Europe don red wigs to try and emulate the Queen.

1818 Hydrogen peroxide is discovered, but little use is found for it until 1867.

1867

London chemist E.H. Thiellay and Parisian hairdresser Leon Hugot demonstrate the advantages of hydrogen peroxide as a better chemical way to lighten hair than alkaline solutions. Bleach is born!

1907 Eugene Schueller creates the first synthetic hair dye using PPD in Paris, becoming the first commercially available oxidative/permanent hair colour.

1920s Hair colour becomes fashionable, and the industry booms as dyes improve.

photo: Keystone press agency, sources: p&g Beauty, hair color research update, humantouchofchemistry.com, randomhistory.com, haircolourBlog.com, discoverynews.com

Jean Harlow was Hollywood’s first blonde goddess. She dyed her hair

BC AD 98

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