+ 25 Pages of Collections
Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, Ont., Canada L9R 1V1
27TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS SEMI-FINALISTS!
SECRET SERVICE MEN'S COLOUR DONE RIGHT
The Art of
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OCTOBER 15 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA
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PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE SCIENCE A REVOLUTIONARY HAIRCARE FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL THAT WILL MULTIPLY THE BENEFITS OF YOUR BUSINESS: IN YOUR SALON: A LONG-LASTING** AND INTENSE HAIRCARE PROTOCOL. FOR YOUR CLIENT AT HOME: THE POSSIBILITY TO PROLONG THIS TREATMENT WITH THE RETAIL RANGE.*** • Unique loyalty-building system: the treatment is mandatorily initiated in salon, then prolonged at home by PRO|FIBER retail products.*** • Spectacular results: 6 weeks*** of surfacing restructuration, thanks to the caring effects of the fiber from roots to ends.* • Advocated by 85% of women.* • Salon exclusivity contract. APTYL 100 Technology: 12 years of research.
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CAN BE THE NEXT STYLE MASTER 3,500 attendees
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So you think you are a Style Master? Be part of the most prestigious International Contest in hairstyling. www.stylemasters.com/contest* CANADIAN PRIZES 1st Place Trip to Revlon Professional Brands World Show (Spring 2016) Visa Card ($1,000 value) • Style Masters Products ($500 value) Salon Magazine Full Page Feature • In-Salon Customized Education Day
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WILL YOU CREATE WHAT’S NEXT
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OPEN FOR ENTRIES SEPTEMBER 15, 2015 – FEBRUARY 17, 2016 AMERICANCREW.COM/ALLSTARCHALLENGE
FOR INQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980 © 2015 AMERICAN CREW. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
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THE PAYOFF The American Crew All-Star Challenge is about being recognized as the best stylist for
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Professional Brands World Show (Spring 2016), $1000 cash prize, $500 product prize, full page feature in select industry media.
ultimate interpretation of the American Crew man. We want the best stylist on the planet. One with a truly unique, artistic vision. One who understands what it takes to create a masculine, modern edge. And one who captures their masterpiece with the professionallevel art direction and photography. If you’ve got what it takes, start perfecting your style, because The American Crew All-Star Challenge is bigger and better than ever.
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OCTOBER.15 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 44
IN THE BOOKS
48
TECHNICAL ARTISTRY
52
BEHIND-THE-SCENES WITH SALON MAGAZINE
We deconstruct your salon staple, the colour swatch book, with some of the best tips on how to use this important consultation tool.
What is contour lightening, and why is bronde the next big thing? We show you some of the hottest trendy colour techniques and how to get them.
See how our colourful cover came together with Schwarzkopf Professional.
54
58
82
SHINING AT NAHA 2015 Taking a look at the stellar Canadian talent that took home the titlesat the 2015 North American Hairstyling Awards.
COLLECTIONS Damien Carney and Rossa Jurenas; Christophe Gaillet; Vincent Nobile; Sharon Blain; Belinda Keeley; Papas + Pace; Kristie Kesic; Carly Wood; Emily Warne and Peter Gibbs; Chrystofer Benson; Peter Prosser; Andor Bubelenyi
CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS Get ready for the 27th Annual Contessa Awards with this year’s semi-finalist list!
ON OUR COVER:
Hair and colour: Damien Carney and Rossa Jurenas Assistants: Joey Marchese and Ally House Makeup: Whitney Heirwegh Nails: Nargis Khan Styling: Florence Durand Photos: Damien Carney
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EMILY WARNE AND PETER GIBBS, HEADROMANCE, HAMPSHIRE, U.K.
68
DMITRI PAPAS AND JUSTIN PACE, PAPAS + PACE, BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA
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1
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Shade shown: You Sustain Me
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REGULARS
62
VINCENT NOBILE, HEADCASE HAIR, PADDINGTON, AUSTRALIA
60
CHRISTOPHE GAILLET FOR L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
18 20
EDITOR’S LETTER
22
SALONMAGAZINE.CA
25
HAIRLINES
86
CONTESSA GALLERY
88
PROFILE
89
90
78 90
PRIVÉ PAR DAVID D’AMOURS
PUBLISHER’S NOTE This month at SalonMagazine.ca
It’s a colour party! From colouring your male clients’ hair the right way to sending your clients home with the right at-home maintenance, we cover it all with some of the season’s latest launches.
Nicole Pede, Contessa 26 Finalist, Ontario Hairstylist of the Year
Making a Natural Connection: Luis Pacheco
BUSINESS Best practices for staffing your salon ethically and creating a happy workplace.
INTERIORS Sophisticated By Design: Privé Par David D'Amours, Montreal
93
EVENTS
97
SCOOP
98
BY THE NUMBERS
PETER PROSSER, PETER PROSSER HAIRDRESSING, HEREFORD, U.K.
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GO BACK TO BASICS WITH YOUR MANI SERVICE
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COLLECTION
Sophisticated Brunettes & Sensual Coppers For class information, contact your sales representative or email us at education_canada@revlon.com AVAILABLE AT: H. CHALUT /QC 1-800-363-2525 ESP SALON SALES /AB, SK, MB 1-800-667-2566 VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. /ON 1-800-465-7965 KINGDOM BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. /BC 1-800-738-8666 BROTHERS BEAUTY SUPPLY /NB 1-888-738-4555 For more information: 1.800.387.7980
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Soma Colour Enhancement Procedures
Wash the client’s hair with Soma’s Clarifying Shampoo for a deep cleanse - removing styling and finishing product build-up and allowing for better color penetration.
Spray the client’s hair with Soma’s pH-balanced Leave-In Conditioner to even out the hair’s porosity for more even and beautiful color.
I
Shifting Gears n the midst of the transitional fall season, the excitement of this year’s Contessa Awards is building at our office (you’ll find the semi-finalists’ list on page 82 of this issue). This is an
incredible time of year for the beauty industry. From fashion weeks to red-carpet events, it’s tough to predict where your attention will move to next. For me, that’s what I love most about what I do: Just when I think I’ve got in a rhythm, a new opportunity comes along that gives us a chance to do something a little differently. When it comes to hair colour, the debate between a colourist
Apply Soma’s Complete Colour. This deposit-only color replaces any demi-color, while not fading like a demi-color (and does not fade brassy). It is great for sensitive scalps!
and a client over making changes can be endless. From natural hues to soft pastels to rich, bold tones, every opinion and preference is different and, ultimately, a professionally recommended ideal shade is a must. Digital images of celebrityinspired shades aside, one of the best ways to keep your client’s next colour service appointment on track is to use that tried-andtrue salon tool: the colour swatch book. While it may seem a bit old school to some, we spoke with hairstylists who believe that this reference tool can make a big difference, whether you’re in the salon or on a photo shoot. Along with all focusing on colour, in this issue you’ll find more than 25 pages of awe-inspiring collections from around the world,
Style the client's hair as desired using any of Soma's pH-balanced and SD 40 alcohol-free styling products. Low pH products keep the cuticle closed and prevent loss of color. Products with SD 40 alcohol cause immediate fading and dehydrate the hair.
hairstylists. With the Contessa Awards around the corner, you can be the first to know this year’s finalists just by getting on Salon Magazine’s e-newsletter mailing list—the finalists will be announced mid-October. Stay tuned—more excitement is on its way!
Anna Lee Boschetto
SOMA Hair Technology 1.866.843.2257 www.somaorganics.com Facebook.com/somahair
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Editor-in-Chief Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
including award-winning images from some talented Canadian
salonmagazine.ca
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 24 issue 13
s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR
Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)
Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Ashley Kowalewski 416.869.3131 ext.119 ashley@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER
Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR
Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.122 nicole@salonmagazine.ca EDITORIAL INTERN
Getting Schooled
O
Emily Smibert 416.869.3131 ext.112 editorialintern@salonmagazine.ca COPY EDITOR
Corinna Reeves CONTRIBUTORS
Paul Chmieloweic
ne of the perks of working at Salon Magazine is we get to
GROUP PUBLISHER
travel the world attending some of the best educational
Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca
events worldwide. So I’m always impressed when I run
U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE
Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com
into Canadian beauty professionals like Silas Tsang and Daniel
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Benoit, who are successful in their own right, but who pay good
Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca
money to attend these events one year after the next. Interesting,
Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca
PRODUCTION MANAGER
though not surprising, it’s their ongoing desire for higher learning,
OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE)
Karren Han
and their willingness to continue to train, that’s a major factor in
CIRCULATION MANAGER
their standout success.
Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca
Recognizing the insatiable thirst for knowledge among Canadian
EXECUTIVE BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR
beauty pros, Salon Magazine is partnering up with the dynamic
Candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca
educational duo—Mazella&Palmer. Based in the U.K., the team will
CHAIRMAN
Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca
be hosting a Look & Learn program on Sunday, November 8, the
ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN
afternoon of this year’s Contessas, at the Westin Harbor Castle. But
Pam Fulford
VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR
the opportunity for learning doesn’t stop there. During the following
Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca
week, Mazella&Palmer are offering in-depth classes, a fantastic
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opportunity for anyone wanting to take their cutting method up a notch or two. I’ve met Jean-Baptiste Mazella and Dove Palmer several times and I have always loved their take on education. Not only do they speak
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of how to cut hair but, they also focus on why, using a disciplined method wrapped with a British sensibility. If you aren’t familiar with
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the team, suffice it to say they are serious independent educators,
SA LON M AGA Z INE
making it all the more exciting to have them now available right here
183 Bathurst Street Suite 202 Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008
in Canada. Contessa Awards Gala promises to be a stellar evening, with this year’s theme: Exotica. As an added bonus, you can now book your tickets to the Contessas and the Mazella&Palmer Look & Learn, for a special deal. What are you waiting for? Get your frock out and make your travel arrangements, then let the learning and show inspire you!
Laura Dunphy Publisher
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM
Along with an exceptional afternoon of education, this year’s
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We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.
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2015-09-03 3:01 PM
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online at
BEHIND-THE-SCENES SNEAK PEEK We had so much fun shooting our cover with the talented Schwarzkopf Professional team! For behind-the-scenes video footage, as well as some colour how-tos from Rossa Jurenas, visit SalonMagazine.ca.
TORONTO MEN’S FASHION WEEK We went backstage during Toronto Men’s Fashion Week to scope out the latest trends and chat with Pete Goupil and on Instagram @SalonMagazine to see the best backstage snaps!
Save the Date for Mazella&Palmer! Mark your calendars for November 8: Mazella&Palmer is holding a Fusion Look & Learn seminar in Toronto! For more information on the event and other seminars and courses that Mazella&Palmer is offering, visit SalonMagazine.ca.
SalonMag 22
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Salon_Magazine
SalonMagazine
COLOUR CHAMELEONS Everyone has that client who wants to drastically change their hair all the time. We have some tips on how to ease colour transitions to keep everyone happy and hair healthy at SalonMagazine.ca!
See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!
Salon Magazine
PHOTOS: HAIR: MAZELLA&PALMER ARTISTIC TEAM, MAKEUP: IRINA RUDOVA, PHOTO: ELLIOTT MORGAN; SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL; AMERICAN CREW;THINKSTOCK
the American Crew team. Don’t forget to follow us
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2015-09-03 3:08 PM
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All Rights Reserved. Printed for Scientific Hair Research, LLC.
ESP Salon Sales: 1-800-667-2566 | Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd: 1-800-738-8666 | Star Bedard: 1-800-361-1978 | Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply: 1-800-387-2962
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HAIRLINES NEWS
7
-Second Saviours Unite extends its 7Seconds line with Shampoo and Conditioner.
Whether it’s a quick fix or finish, Unite’s 7Seconds products spread the hair love with instant results, bringing easy-to-please strands right to your clients. Now, with 7Seconds Shampoo and Conditioner, your clients can get healthy, hydrated hair right in the shower. Boasting a healthy, shiny, silky finish right at the source, this wash-and-condition duo also protects colour-treated tresses and offers both UV and heatstyling defenses so your clients can get that super-fast
ANCIENT RITUALS Orofluido brings Asian influences to its signature line of products. Orofluido has always boasted a ritualistic approach to beauty with its core line of products
fix even before they style.
Colour-Care
Cocktail
L’Oréal Professionnel unleashes new Vitamino Color A-OX products for next-level colour care.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: OROFLUIDO, UNITE, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
inspired by ingredients found in the Mediterranean. But the brand
Your clients are diligent with their
has recently travelled around the
colour touch-up appointments.
world to bring Asian influences
With the reinvented L’Oréal Professionnel
to its new Asia Zen Control line.
Vitamino Color A-OX line, which offers up
The Orofluido Asia Zen Control
different levels of treatments, you can give
lineup is infused with tsubaki
them even better colour and hair care while
(camellia) oil for its repairing, clockrewinding properties, bamboo extract for its quintessential strengthening qualities and rice oil for its antioxidant and vitaminrich smoothing and nourishing power. Each of the four products— Shampoo, Conditioner, Elixir and Mask—comes packed with a new formula and sweet floral scent that will give your clients an exotic escape from their everyday
salonmagazine.ca
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beauty rituals.
boosting business in your salon. COLOUR TREATMENTS When your clients come for their colour service, help them seal it in with the L’Oréal Professionnel Cristalceutic Top Coat Treatment, complete with the concentrated Powerdose and strand-saving Mask + Serum. IN-BETWEEN TREATMENTS Whether they come in the salon or do this at home, your clients can help keep their colour even longer with the Color Radiance Protection + Perfecting Jelly Mask. AT-HOME TREATMENTS The at-home care system is the bread and butter of keeping your client’s colour looking pristine, and with the new Color Corrector for Blondes, sulfate-free Soft Cleanser and Color 10 in 1 Perfecting Multipurpose Spray, that’s easier than ever.
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SPONSORED CONTENT
HAIRLINES NEWS
FUSION LOOK & LEARN
Since you’ll already be in
Retain Your
Colour Expertise
From pure pigment hues to more natural tones, clients who colour their hair are always looking to keep their hair as vibrant as it was the day they walked out of your salon. Although that may seem like a tall order, Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional, assures colourists that it’s not only possible, but also super-easy. What is the number one thing that colourists can do in the salon, that helps their clients retain the vibrancy of their colour?
First, before applying colour, spray a porosity equalizer that will fill in the gaps in the hair structure but won’t inhibit the deposit of hair colour. Both
Toronto for the Contessa
WHERE Westin Harbour
Awards (obviously!), why
Castle in Toronto
not spend your morning with Mazella&Palmer when they present the Fusion Look & Learn seminar on Sunday, November 8? Working with hairstylists from around the world,
WHEN November 8, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. (includes lunch) COST $195 for general admission, $295 for a VIP package
Mazella&Palmer has two decades of education and salon experience. With the tag line “Not just how to cut hair, but why,” these technical and creative pros are in high demand for teaching cutting techniques and courses. The Fusion Look & Learn seminar covers a wide range of styles and techniques, from Mazella&Palmer foundation and salon contemporary to men’s cutting and creating collections. Participants will finish the course with not only an arsenal of skills for day-to-day salon work but also an understanding of the Mazella&Palmer philosophy.
BC Moisture Kick and Color Freeze Equalizer should be used to fill in the How important is the health of the hair in preventing colour from fading?
Healthy hair retains colour best. Hair that is coloured only once isn’t porous, so you’ll see minimal fading. However, with hair that has been coloured regularly, you’ll have more fading at the mid-lengths and ends
Forever
Young
because it has been exposed to the colouring process. In order to ensure
Macadamia Professional maintains
maximum colour retention, hairstylists should use a different formula at
hair’s youth with Éprouvage.
the mid-lengths and ends to redeposit colour than they would at the new growth, where you may need to lift the hair colour. How can colourists work with clients to ensure proper home care?
Whether you are using a semi-permanent, demi-permanent or permanent colour, home care products are really important because the colour process changes the structure of the hair. Colour-treated hair requires products that will close the cuticle to retain its vibrancy. Schwarzkopf Professional’s new BC Hairtherapy Color Freeze products have a very specific 4.5 pH technology, which helps maintain hair’s natural pH level for zero colour fading.
The first professional hair care line to use plant stem cells, Macadamia Professional launches Éprouvage, an anti-aging line that harnesses skin-balancing technology to keep your client’s hair and scalp healthy. Éprouvage uses active ingredients like blue Egyptian lily water and French oak extract, in combination with vegetable, soy and rice keratins, to strengthen weak and damaged hair while working together with Redensyl to reduce hair loss and thinning. The nine-product line includes a shampoo, conditioner, serum and plumping spray that can be used individually or as a system for best results against an aging mane.
To find out more about the ASK Academy, call 1-800-463-3081 or download the seminar brochure at schwarzkopf-professional.ca.
se.o.15.hairlines.3-0.indd 26
PHOTOS: MACADAMIA PROFESSIONAL
gaps in the hair structure.
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 3:05 PM
COLOR.ME IS BORN FROM KEVIN.MURPHY’S VISION OF FUSING SESSION WORK, FASHION AND HAIR COLOUR. THIS COMPACT COLOUR LINE DELIVERS HIGH PERFORMANCE, NATURAL LOOKING RESULTS AND OPTIMUM COLOUR FUNCTIONALITY. COLORMEBYKM.COM A M M O N I A A N D P P D F R E E • N A T U R A L LY D E R I V E D I N G R E D I E N T S • F U L L C O L O U R R A N G E
www.internationalbeauty.ca
www.TBBS.ca
Alterna, Babe, Bioelements, DS Laboratories, Dannyco, Ego, Johnny B, Kasho, Kevin.Murphy, Logics, L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Neuma, One Styling, OPI, PureOlogy, Tressa, REDAVID, SpaRitual
Affinage, Alterna, Bosley Professional Strength, ISO Johnny B, Joico, Kevin.Murphy, Macadamia Professional Mixed Chicks, Neuma, Saryna Key
11 stores to serve your professional needs in AB, SK & MB
4 stores to serve your professional needs in ON Call toll free 1.800.387.2962 or locally: 416.787.1211
Order Desk call toll free: 1.800.642.3818
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2015-09-01 3:00 PM
HAIRLINES NEWS
EXOTICA CALLING The 27th annual Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards are fast approaching, and attendees are in store for a taste of Exotica at this year’s gala on
TOOLBOX
Infiniti Pro by Conair The Ultimate Brush
November 8, 2015. Whether gala host Noah Cappe shares an additional on-stage tipple with Tony Ricci or The ions condition hair for instantly soft results, free of flyaways.
we get blown away in another on-stage mini-tornado, this year will not disappoint—it’s the biggest night of the year in Canadian hairstyling, after all! Don’t miss anything, and grab your early bird tickets now—the Westin Harbour Castle awaits!
Sebastian Professional’s What’s Next Awards are here again, so it’s time to show the hairstyling world what you’re made of. This year, Sebastian Professional has added the Affiliated Artist category to include stylists that are part of the Sebastian Professional and Wella Professionals families, and encourages entrants to be inspired by this year’s theme, Metamorphik. The entry deadline closes November 30, 2015, and the live finale happens in February 2016 in sunny Miami. For more information, go to Facebook.com/ SebastianProCanada.
THINK
FULL CIRCLE
green
Kevin.Murphy and Green Circle Salons take sustainability to the next level. Kevin.Murphy, the brand known for good-for-your-hair products packed with natural and ethically sourced ingredients and biodegradable packaging, has joined forces with Green Circle Salons to take its efforts to reduce its carbon footprint to the next level. Together, Kevin.Murphy and Green Circle Salons will be able to champion sustainability from production level to salon services to waste management while working with participating salons and stylists to help fulfill the Green Circle Salons mission of a sustainable beauty industry.
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“
The Ultimate Brush simplifies my clients’ hair concerns on a daily basis. The ionic generator releases negative ions to seal the cuticle and eliminate frizz and static, giving hair maximum shine.
”
– Andrea Sampson, director of education for Conair The ionic generator emits ions to banish frizz and static by smoothing out the hair cuticle.
The portable, batterypowered brush allows for on-the-road styling for you and your clients.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:THINKSTOCK, CONAIR, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL
YOU’RE NEXT!
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-02 3:41 PM
JOIN THE MASTER CLASS In business for over 20+ years in Canada, Great Lengths continues to be the most recognized Hair Extension Brand in the world. Our supreme hair quality, industry leading education and customer service sets Great Lengths apart. We are the global leaders of ethically sourced, fully traceable, non-chemically treated hair to the professional salon industry. We know what we do well and our dedication to improving our business helps us to maximize yours. Our aim is to focus on you, the stylist, helping expand your career and being your partner. Visit our website to learn more about our products and view our 2015 educational seminar schedule. #jointhemasterclass
www.greatlengthscanada.com
WINNER 2012
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WINNER 2013
WINNER 2014
WINNER 2015 2014
2015-09-01 3:00 PM
HAIRLINES NEWS
Mix It Up Mix up some conditioning for your clients with Malibu C Concentr8 Mixers. The creator of some of the most effective hair colour fixes, Malibu C, launches three new strand savers inspired by cocktails and mixology, Concentr8 Mixers. Perfect for your back bar, the in-salon treatments give your clients a customized mix for their hair concerns in just two minutes. The lineup includes Rehydr8, which delivers an intense dose of moisture, Rehabilit8, to repair and replenish
FUEL SPEED AHEAD
From education to madefor-stylist products, Fuel is empowering “True Stylists” in every way. Fuel’s definition of a “true stylist” is a hair carefocused professional with a desire to learn, create, inspire and stay on trend.
damaged strands, and Illumin8, which
Led by an international team of beauty professionals with
restores radiance to a lacklustre mane.
a passion for day-to-day cutting and upstyling needs, Fuel seeks to educate and equip stylists with tangible skills and techniques and high-quality performance products and tools to take from the classroom directly to the salon floor the very next day. Fuel’s no-nonsense curriculum, which consists of look-and-learn and hands-on instruction, builds on alreadyexisting styling foundations while providing an environment where stylists can enhance their confidence and find
Embrace Eufora Color Glossing will make your clients rethink
the Fade
their faded shades. Colour-treated clients are quick to fix their fade or dull, natural shades, but what if your clients had a way to embrace their fade with a glossy, natural finish? Eufora Color Glossing offers a quick and simple way to boost their natural or faded colour so they get a smooth, shiny, super-glossy finish without a constant colour commitment.
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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: MALIBU C,THINKSTOCK, HAIR: UROS MIKIC, KINKY CURLY STRAIGHT, STEPNEY, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: MAJA SUSNJARA, STYLING: NINA SUSNJARA, PHOTO: ZIGA MIHELCIC
solutions to evolve their craft and credibility.
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 4:21 PM
COLOUR
Choose from our 83+ fashion-inspired colours or layer to create your own from the world’s premier CND™ SHELLAC™ system. With 14+ days of high-performance wear and crystal shine. This is no fairytale, this is CND™ SHELLAC.™
See more at cnd.com/CND-SHELLAC
cnd.com
Model is wearing CND™ SHELLAC™ brand 14+ day nail colour in Midnight Swim, Faux Fur with Hot Chilis, Pretty Poison, Midnight Swim, Crimson Sash, Red Baroness, Pretty Poison with Beau, Dark Lava, Red Baroness, & Dark Lava with Grape Gum. CND, SHELLAC, XPRESS5 and the ©2015 Creative Nail Design, Inc.
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logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc.
Follow us @CNDCanada
2015-09-01 3:03 PM
HAIRLINES NEWS
GAME-
GREEN
beauty
CHANGER
Natulique offers a natural alternative to colour and hair care products. The green movement is getting bigger by the day, with more clients reaching for
Three ways Kwickway Thermal Strips will change your colour game.
naturally derived and sourced ingredients and products. It’s no surprise then that brands like Natulique are spreading their brand across continents to share the
1. THE MATERIAL
certified organic colour and hair care
Most salons use foils, and while
products they’ve created. Natulique Natural
they certainly get the colouring
Colours is a professional hair colour line that
job done, Kwickway Thermal
offers its signature certified-organic stamp
Strips use a polystyrene
alongside an ammonia-free formulation.
formula, making all
When paired with the Ammonia-Free
the difference.
Colouring Activators and Permanent
Michael Crispel,
Whitener, it offers a natural alternative
co-owner and vice-
without skimping on the colourful results.
president of Kwickway and owner of Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, explains that the material in than any other product on the market.” 2. THE PROCESS “From a scientific standpoint, [the material] allows us to process faster. Foils reflect heat and
What’s in a Name? Sexy Hair gets rosy with the new Vibrant hair care collection.
Kwickway Thermal
Roses are iconic for their wealth of beauty-
Strips retain heat,
boosting accolades, so it should come as no
so we can use room
surprise that rose oil can add colour protection
temperature to our advantage because a lot
to its already-impressive resumé. Sexy Hair
of brands are now recommending no heat during
harnesses the power of this sweet-smelling
the colouring process,” explains Crispel.
ingredient in its new Vibrant collection, created specifically to keep colour-treated
3. THE COMFORT
hair looking, well, vibrant. Alongside almond
Your clients come to you to help them look their
oil, the four-piece collection, which includes
best, but the colouring process is not the most
CC Hair Perfector, Color Guard, Sulfate-
comfortable. Since the strips are much more
Free Color Lock Conditioner and, the
lightweight, when your client is getting a full
hero product, Rose Elixir, aims to keep
head of highlights, there’s less weight on them
colour looking fresh for up to 10 weeks
during processing. In addition, Crispel explains
after your client’s service. It achieves
that Kwickway Thermal Strips have “certain
this by sealing in the pigment while
angles that can be cut to prevent them from
protecting and nourishing your
being draped over your client’s face.”
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client’s mane in the process.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KWICKWAY, NATULIQUE, SEXY HAIR,THINKSTOCK
Kwickway Thermal Strips is “25 per cent lighter
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 2:57 PM
TAKE IT OFF NEW DDL Direct Dye Lifter
with for Professional Colorists
Removes unwanted direct dyes and stains Success with or without developer Creamy, non-drip formula Mix with water for gentler lifting Creative control for special effects Single step freshly-activated formula DDL Direct Dye Lifter is: R 100% Vegan R Cruelty-Free R Made in the USA Formulated Without: R Ammonia R Formaldehyde R Gluten R Parabens R Fragrance
1.800.622.7332 | www.MalibuC.com/Prof
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2015-04-15 12:37 PM
HAIRLINES NEWS P LA NT D E R I V E D
The latest craze taking the hairstyling world by storm? Hair bonders that offer up strong strands, no matter what chemical or colour treatment your client is getting. Whether you use these during a colour or chemical treatment or in between services, these new saviours ditch the damage so your clients can have guilt-free services without the sacrifice. So where do you start with these business-boosting service add-ons? We’ve rounded up some of the best in the biz.
to some of the bonding treatments using a naturally derived vegetable protein in its ColorStrong Complex and two-step process. The Color Strengthening Additive offers in-salon assurance to your client that her tresses will be protected during her colour service, while the last-step After Color Strengthening Finish seals in plantderived goodness.
TR EAT YO U R S E LF
and services, whether
Hair Treats Bondex is
it’s straight colour or
a three-part system
used after bleaching
formulated with the
or keratin treatments
brand’s Anti-Breakage
or as a strengthener
Technology that offers
in between services.
both an in-salon service The trio uses soy and and a take-home
phytoceramides to
maintenance step for
nourish strands from
your clients to maximize the inside out and
S I G N E D A N D S EA LE D Ultra Bond Sealer’s three-part system uses its multifaceted Oriental Herbal Complex that harnesses the power of 20 different herbs, like licorice, algae, rosemary and soybean. This paraben-silicone-sulftatephthalate-free process includes the Bond, Seal and Home steps and, when used in conjunction with one another, renews strength and nourishes damaged strands, preventing further breakage during and after chemical and colour treatments.
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their treatment
create a protective
between salon visits.
shield around each
Cater this system to
strand, to prevent
your client’s needs
further damage.
I N S U R A N C E P O LI CY FHI Neo Bond positions itself as your client’s hair insurance—and no one wants to be caught without insurance. FHI Neo Bond uses three levels—Bond Replicator, Bond Fortifier and Hair Protector—to create a shield around the hair shaft, repairing broken bonds, protecting from further damage and strengthening it during your client’s service. Send your client home with the Hair Protector for biweekly at-home maintenance.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: COLORPHLEX, BONDEX, FHI, ULTRA BOND SEALER
The Name Is Bond...
ColorpHlex offers your clients a more natural alternative
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 2:58 PM
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2015-09-01 3:29 PM
HAIRLINES NAILS
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, ROCKY!
Autumn Opulence
To commemorate 40 years of The Rocky Horror Picture Show and just in time for Halloween, Gelish and Morgan Taylor unleash two limited-
LCN This season has seen a surprising jolt of bright colours alongside more seasonal varieties, and the Lost in Luxury collection is no exception.
edition colour collections and gift sets. To celebrate the cult classic the collection includes three classic shades, including a pure white, a dark and moody black and a quintessentially Rocky red, while Morgan Taylor ups the electrifying factor with the Glow-In-The-Dark Top Coat.
PERFECT MATCH
CUCCIO Rich jewel tones are the hallmark of the season, so it’s no wonder they work in Cuccio’s fall collection, Royale, which includes eight lavish hues.
SPARITUAL Autumn marks another chance to reset, so give your clients that chance to stop and relax with the Pause collection, complete with six shimmery shades.
CND hits the courts at the Rogers Cup with #CNDNailYourLook.
launches, and recently it took a swing at dressing some of the tennis world’s most
CHINA GLAZE The temperature may be dropping, but fall is one of the best times to enjoy nature. Inspired by The Great Outdoors, China Glaze releases 12 hues for your clients to cozy up with.
notorious tips. Revlon Professional and American Crew handled match-ready hairstyles for the players in both Toronto and Montreal, while CND education ambassadors Liliya Leheta and John Nguyen outfitted fun tips for tennis pros like Petra Kvitová, Lesia Tsurenko, Sabine Lisicki, Donna Vekic, Jelena Jankovic and Heidi El Tabakh and took
ESSIE This collection is inspired by all things rock, harnessing the glitz, glam and grunge of the ‘70s. What better time to debut it than when your clients are looking for a shade to pair with their seasonal leather?
to Instagram to show off their creations with #CNDNailYourLook. The players and their families were pampered in the players’ lounge with styles perfect for on and off the court.
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OPI The brand continues to expand its Infinite Shine Gel Effects Lacquer range with 12 new shades, including a range of vibrant berries and shimmery golds.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:THINKSTOCK, MORGAN TAYLOR, LCN, CUCCIO, SPA RITUAL, CHINA GLAZE, ESSIE, OPI, CND
CND is known for its innovative nail
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 3:00 PM
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2015-09-01 3:29 PM
HAIRLINES NAILS
Basic Instincts Think your mani game is strong? We go back to basics with one of your most important services.
Monitor quality control One of the easiest ways to ensure that nail professionals are maintaining quality control when working outside of the salon is to keep it up within the salon. Both Barbi and Botero agree that the best way for salon owners to ensure that their staff members are upholding an even level of quality across the board is to watch them or have them do services on other staff members periodically. For technical aspects of a manicure service, often application or removal varies depending on the brand, so Barbi suggests bringing in brand educators so that the staff know protocols for each line the salon carrie. “Some nail pros think that the more they rough up the nail, the better the polish will stay on the client’s
For most nail pros, the manicure is an essential service and one of the
nails. But a client thinks that a products is ruining her nails when it’s
most important, whether you work in a salon, on celebrity clients or
actually the application or removal process.”
backstage for photo shoots and fashion week. We spoke with Elsa Barbi, OPI brand ambassador, and Alisha Botero, executive vice-president and creative director for Artistic Nail Design, on how to make this signature service better than ever.
Brush up on your skills Barbi believes that nail pros should be taking classes “once or twice a year to go back to basics and learn what’s trending now.” Botero agrees that education should be as frequently as possible, whether it’s bringing
Bring back the consultation
an educator into the salon to discuss new products or protocols, or
With regular clients, it’s easy to skip the consultation step, especially
seeking education outside of the workplace. Botero further explains
if they’re devout in their services or colour choices. But for Barbi, this
that “You should review your menu each year and increase your pricing.
is one of the most basic manicure steps and too often missed. “We
But also review each service and ask yourself if you would pay the
always forget to ask our clients what they want and take for granted
same.” The increase in value for your services often comes from nail
that their likes and dislikes change,” she explains, adding that part of a
professionals and artists staying on top of their skills and going above
nail professional’s responsibility is “to open the conversation with their
and beyond for their clients.
clients: asking them if they like the way their nails look or if there’s something they want to try or change.”
Don’t cut corners When time is at a minimum, it’s easy to cut corners on even the most basic polish change. Botero explains that often, depending on scheduling, it’s difficult to avoid. “No one wants to cut corners, but sometimes you have to because of the booking schedule,” she explains, meaning that the salon owner needs to allow time for cleaning the service station, sterilizing the implements and setting up for the next client when timing appointments. Barbi explains that sanitation is one of the first things to go when time is short, especially when working backstage at a photo shoot or fashion week. “While you know you’ve washed your hands and sanitized your tools, it’s important to protect when working outside of the salon, hand sanitizer is key.
Create an experience While most nail pros learn basic massage skills in school, both Barbi and Botero agree that the hand and arm massage is an important facet of the service and that, in this case, basic isn’t always better. Barbi explains: “They can go to any nail salon for a manicure service, but a treatment massage [going beyond the elbow] is the difference between a service and an experience.” For Botero, it’s simple: “The massage always brings your clients back,” explaining that creating this relaxing environment is what breeds loyal, repeat clients.
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TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTO:THINKSTOCK
yourself and the person you’re working on,” reiterating that, especially
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-02 3:33 PM
Salon Mag Ad.Sadie.Final.1A.pdf
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2015-09-01 3:28 PM
HAIRLINES MEN
THE SECRET SERVICE: DOS AND DON’TS OF MEN’S HAIR COLOUR
In the salon, the disparity between men’s and women’s hair colour services is glaring. While many women are opting for fashion hues, most of your male clients want colour that’s as natural and discreet as possible. Here’s what you need to know to achieve that perfect balance. According to Eve Champagne, a certified Redken colourist and co-owner of Rayko salon in Montreal, an in-depth consultation is a must when you have a booking with a male client. “The consultation gives you an opportunity to assess how open your client is to change and allows you to make sensible suggestions, particularly if you want to address the issue of greying hair,” says Champagne, adding that it may be up to you to bring up the topic because your client often won’t be comfortable doing so. TH E A RT O F C A M O With the dizzying army of hot, mature men proudly parading their greys on Instagram, the current trend is to gently camouflage them. “Gone are the Choose a colour that has an ash tone in a demi-permanent formula to
Another option for men is balayage, which offers incredibly natural, sun-kissed effects. According to Champagne, “You just paint the lightening
gently conceal grey hair. “The idea here is that you don’t want to work
cream directly on hair and use your artistry to blend in these lighter
with an ammonia-based product, which will end up lightening the hair as
sections with the rest. It’s also a fun and modern way to go for blonder
the colour fades over time and reveal red pigments—a surefire sign of
sections because all-over bleaches look very dated now.”
coloured hair,” advises Champagne. She recommends Color Camo from Redken, which offers excellent coverage and works in 10 minutes or less. “Basically, you’re just adding pepper strands to salt and pepper hair. The end result is very natural.”
AVO I D I N G “ TH E D O N A LD ” The one thing that all professional colourists advise against is applying permanent formulas all over when colouring men’s hair, “unless you want to go for [U.S. Republican candidate] Donald Trump’s unflattering helmet
G O I N G PA LE R
look,” says Champagne.
Ash tones are also your best option because they blend better with greys
Using a coloured gloss will also help make hair look healthier and add
and are well suited to neutralizing any warm undertones. But if your aim
a nice sheen to dried-out strands, another sign of aging hair. “Acid-based
is to go for a pale yet subtle change, your results will look more natural if
hair colour adds a lot of shine while preserving hair’s natural pH,” says
you choose lightening creams over high-lift formulas. “One-step products,
Champagne.
such as Blonde Idol from Redken, offer great results because they are pigmented and very gentle on the hair,” says Champagne.
COLOR BAR From the salon to home care, products makes all the difference in your client’s colour.
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Finally, always recommend a colour-protection routine at home between bookings so that colour stays fresh longer.
F AST F I X A mere five minutes
STR E N GTH E N I N G
H O M E R U N H IT
with Goldwell’s Men ReShade
F O R M U LATI O N
When it comes to colour
Redken for Men’s Color
retention, Schwarzkopf
Camo features a protein-
Professional’s BC Color
enriched formula that
Freeze Silver Shampoo
strengthens the hair
uses lamination
and can be used as
technology which protects
a customized colour
colour vibrancy and
service for blending
enhance shine between
grey hair.
salon visits.
is all your need for guys looking to cover their grey, plus it’s ammonia-free.
TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTO: HAIR:TONY WILSON, RAVEN HAIRCUTTERS, AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND, STYLING: JANE MOW, PHOTO: IAN SMITH; GOLDWELL, REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
days of completely colouring or all-over bleaching hair,” says Champagne.
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 4:20 PM
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2015-07-28 2:00 PM
HAIRLINES NEWS
From ditching unsightly roots to banishing that ponytail bend for good, we’ve got all of your hair fixes.
COLOUR CRAZE Pureology unleashes even more colour care with Colour Fanatic Instant Deep-Conditioning Mask, which provides 21 hair-loving benefits alongside its signature antifade complex. pureology.com
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CONCEALED WEAPON Joico Tint Shot Root Concealer, available in Black, Dark Brown, Light Brown and Blonde, covers up those unsightly grey hairs in between colour services with a clean, quickdrying formula. joico.com
SHAPE UP Bring back the bounce with ColorProof CurlyLocks Color Protect Curl Mousse. Packed with a curl-hydrating trifecta of oils, including Abyssinian, camellia and grapeseed, this mousse offers all-day touchable definition. colorproof.com
PLAYING TELEPHONE Avoid the inevitable ponytail bend, so switch up your client’s hair fix with Invisibobble. The versatile telephonecord-like ring distributes pressure around the hair unevenly so your client can whip their hair up without any trace. invisibobble.com
SAY GOODBYE TO DRY Skin care offerings shouldn’t be a onesize-fits-all situation. For younger clients who are battling dryness from their acne treatments, the new Dermalogica Clear Start Skin Soothing Hydrating Lotion provides weightless moisture to calm and nourish skin. dermalogica.ca
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C
EDITOR’S PICKS
RESTORING THE MYTH After expanding its Mythic Oil line, L’Oréal Professionnel reinvents its original offering with three new oils. Shimmering Oil is for hair and body, Nourishing Oil with avocado and grapeseed oil, and Colour Glow Oil with linseed and cranberry for colour-treated tresses. lorealprofessionnel.ca
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-02 3:34 PM
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2015-09-01 3:28 PM
IN THE BOOKS As a colourist with more than two decades of salon experience, Danny Lapointe, artistic director for Aspasie, a company that produces colour swatch books for manufacturers, explains why it's an important tool for colourists and clients and how the colour swatch book can help your colour service menu. By Anna Lee Boschetto R E F R E S H YO U R C R EATI V ITY For Loretta Tom, a master colourist based in British Columbia and a previous Canadian Colourist Contessa finalist, the swatch book helps refersh and review the different hues. “Regardless if you have been doing hair for a year or 30 years and know the colours in the book inside out, sometimes there are shades that aren’t commonly used that we forget about,” she explains. Outside the salon, Tom says the swatch book is a well-used reference tool. “When I'm doing creative work, I may have an idea in my head but it’s always nice to put all the swatch colours side by side to see how the colours blend and complement each other,” she explains. O P E N C O M M U N I C ATI O N When it comes to figuring out exactly what your clients want in their hair colour, Danny Lapointe from Aspasie, a Quebec-based company, says the swatch book can be a high-impact communication tool. In you explain your direction to your clients. Tom believes that “stylists should always use a swatch book to confirm your client's desire shade.” We all have different perceptions of colours, and sometimes the tone you’re thinking of is different from your client and using the book as a conversation tool ensures everyone is on the same page.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C
fact, not only does the book alllow colourists to understand their clients’ colour choices but also will help
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 3:10 PM
NEW BEGINNINGS When you’re working with a new client, it can be helpful in figuring out what level—light, medium or dark—and finding the natural levels in their hair. By doing this, you’ll expose the contributing pigments—hair may go from brown to red to yellow to blonde.
R EAS S U R E YO U R C LI E NT A specific colour can mean different things to different people. Showing a client the swatch book will help you determine how vibrant or subtle the client wants thier hair colour.
N U M B E R S GA M E Each number gives you additional information. Colourists can gain a better understanding of the colour formulation, including the intensity of the colour or its neutrality.
S H O W C AS E YO U R P R O F E S S I O N A LI S M D ETE R M I N I N G TH E B E ST C O O L TO N E S
each client’s unique features creates
Using the book strategically gives you the
a professional salon experience. Your
guidelines to be able to see which cool tones have
clients are more aware than they were a
more violet or green and how you can mix these
few years ago, so you have to make sure
tones to customize the colour for your client.
t
Making a recommendation based on
you’re creating a colour service that they won't be able to get anywhere else.
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C O LO U R P LAY For colourists, it helps to select and prepare the right shade, especially when it comes to creating neutral ones. As Lapointe explains, a client may want a neutral brown, but if she has a warm TO N A L Q U A LITY Taking into consideration, the
undertone in her hair, you may need use a brown with an ash tone.
underlying colour in your client’s eyes and skin tone is really important in making the ultimate selection. When you remove the colour swatch from the book, you can see how it looks next to their complexion which is the best way to showcase the colour.
W H AT ’ S N EXT ? In the future, Lapointe says that techonolgy will allow digital swatches that will give online results and reinvent the salon experience.
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Technical
Artistry
Key looks: “Lived-in” hue, stonewashed, smoky
This is where natural technique is married with less-than-natural colours, even looking at platinum finishes or what Dana Lyseng, Wella Professional's top artist, calls the “granny grunge”
The latest colour trends and techniques span the whole spectrum of shades, from ultra-natural looks to super-graphic treatments to bright, bright colours. With best practices and tips from some of the pros, we navigate through it all.
trend, incorporating a variety of grey
By Ashley Kowalewski
colour, so the ombré can fade with less
and silver tones in a washed-out, stonewashed finish. Guy Tang, hair guru and Pravana guest artist, adds that “the ‘lived-in’ hair colour trend is one that we’re going to be seeing for a while. Clients are looking for low-maintenance frequent touch-ups."
Key looks: Balayage, sombré, bronde, tortoiseshell, contour lightening, babylights, stretching technique
How to get it: Easily translated from a more natural, neutral palette to pastels, Kandasamy describes a stretching technique where you “apply
The natural-looking method of colouring
the same colour all over but change
has taken an artistic, painterly turn, and
your timing in different sections”
with the fresh, less-is-more approach
or apply pressure in certain areas,
we’re seeing throughout the entire
equating this technique to drawing
beauty industry, it’s no surprise. Richy
with a pencil: “When you put more
Kandasamy, creative technical director
pressure on a pencil, you get more
at TIGI, explains “your clients don’t want
depth, but it’s still the same colour
to look like they’ve been to the hair
as when you take the pressure off
salon; they want to look like they were
the pencil.”
born with this colour—something found in nature.” This move into painted-
Match it up: When it comes to
on, deliberately placed and timed
matching shades for the most natural
colour requires much more patience
finish, Kandasamy recommends
and attention than some of the other
keeping in mind the season and your
methods of highlighting we’ve seen in
client’s complexion. For Allard, this also
the past. Catherine Allard, a Redken
means making the client's face shape
artist, explains that one of the ways
and bone structure work with the final
to keep colour fresh and your clients
look: “If the client has a square face
coming back with these natural, easy-
and wants sombré, I'll start at the
to-grow-out looks is “to add babylights
jawline to accentuate [her features],
eight weeks after the colour service to
which I explain during the
preserve the technique.”
consultation process.”
NATURAL SELECTION
For more trendy colour techniques, tutorials and inspiration looks go to SalonMagazine.ca/Hair
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MIXED MEDIA How to get it: Tang recommends “doing both lowlights and balayage at the same time, adding lowlights from the roots to mid-length and creating highlights at the ends, connecting the two in the middle.” He suggests that this can also be done with brighter colours. Make the switch: For clients who are not quite ready to take the fullcolour plunge, Lyseng recommends mixing some of the popular “mermaid tones” in subtle hues, by pairing them
GRAPHIC CONTENT
with “chocolate-toned base colours and some peekaboo teal pieces in a soft, more professional way.”
Key looks: colour-blocking, sand art, pixelation
in a rainbow-like pattern. Pravana guest artist Rebecca Taylor explains
Creating bright, vivid colours can
the technique of using a zigzagging
be a dream for many colourists, but
pattern when applying colour onto
Kandasamy cautions that it’s necessary
pre-lightened hair, creating three-inch
to approach it with the right attitude:
sections before blending them into
“One of the biggest mistakes is that a
one another for a seamless finish.
PHOTOS: REDKEN,WELLA PROFESSIONALS, PRAVANA,TIGI
lot of stylists want to do things really
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fast, so they’ll use a high activator to
Going backwards: While super-
achieve the colour in less time. But what
pigmented styles are all the rage
happens is that whatever colour you
right now, trends come and go
put on will fade much quicker because
and your client may want to go
you’ve processed and lifted the cuticle
back to something subtler and more
so much that you’ve lost flexibility.” If
natural. Allard and Kandasamy both
you’re giving your client something
say that to colour correct bleached
bright, “take your time using a low
and overprocessed hair, remind your
activator, bringing the target shade to
clients that home care is important, too.
the right level slowly.” Lyseng reminds
Allard explains that through her colour
colourists that when “lightening hair
correction process, “over-processed
with the intention of of creating a cool
hair needs lots of protein to help
effect, take the hair one level lighter
rebuild the hair’s strength and to
than needed to avoid a muddy result.”
prepare it to receive more colour” without breakage. She recommends
How to get it: Sand art, an extension
that as part of any colour correction
of balayage that's very graphic,
process, you should fortify stressed
takes that entropic idea to a new level
strands with an enriching protein
by blending complementary colours
treatment.
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The Paint Box
TIGI Copyright Colour Gold and Copper Adding to its impressive roster of Copyright Colours, TIGI has released new gold and copper permanent and demi-permanent shades to add light and brightness to your client’s look.
Pravana Pure Enlightenment Balayage Kit Created alongside hair guru and balayage expert
Wella Professionals Color.id
Guy Tang, the kit includes activators and lighteners
Get creative with your colour application with this mixable colour
designed specifically for balayage, as well as the
additive, which allows you to place shades side-by-side without any
technique’s must-have brushes and toners.
blending or bleeding. Perfect for when your client wants you to get graphic and let your inspiration run wild.
Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Warm Gold and Cool Rosé Boasting more colours in its blonde-loving collection, Schwarzkopf Professional adds two new shades to its BlondMe portfolio: a warm honey finish with Warm Gold and a strawberry-blonde brightness with Cool Rosé. Sunlights The Balay Box Following “the balayage revolution,” Sunlights The Balay Box is a full balayage class and system that offers everything from step-by-step tutorials on how to successfully create an even, consistent balayage, to all
Redken Chromatics Mocha and Blur Brush Achieve that coveted bronde sombré for a luxuriously glam finish. Two new shades are inspired by various warm chocolate tones and blended together with the Blur Brush seamlessly.
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PHOTOS:TIGI, WLLA PROFESSIONALS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESISONAL, REDKEN, SUNLIGHTS BALAYAGE, PRAVANA
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BEHIND THE SCENES ON
Salon Magazine’s Cover Shoot For this issue, we collaborated with Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional’s North American colour director, and Damien Carney, the brand’s creative director, who photographed the looks. ON SET Although a great cover image may look effortless, it takes plenty of team effort to get it done. And sometimes things don’t always go according to the best-laid plans. “Sometimes you just might have to pull it off and make it work,” shares Jurenas. “We lost one key model, but everything happens for a reason and we had backup models.” MAKINGS OF A COVER SHOT Usually you can tell with your photographer if you have the right image. When it comes to achieving the perfect shot, sometimes it’s not so much about the hair as it is about the model. “If there's eye contact, if the model’s eyes light up or if there is movement in the hair, you’ll know you have it.” MAKEUP It’s like doing a haircut: If you don’t pay attention to their face shape, the cut won't work. No matter who your model is, Jurenas says that simply complementing their features and adjusting their look will yield the best results. HAIR COLOUR STORY While we’ll still see bold hues for fall, Jurenas says that the version will be softer. “Rich, intense colour and rose gold tones are going to be softer and more feminine, but still have a little bit of edge to them,” says Jurenas. “I still feel that grey, silver and metallic tones will continue as a fashion statement.” TECHNICALLY SPEAKING When it comes to colour, Jurenas says that different techniques, including tortoiseshell, will be says, “not only with the cut but also with the colour, adding a softer appeal.” ON TREND In her research for this photo shoot, Jurenas says that textures and fused colours will play a big part in the looks for fall. “Melting colours that have warmth to them,” she says adding that yellow-green hues will feature prominently.
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TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTOS: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
used. “There will be an ability to see movement in the hair,” she
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Erika Fung, Avant Garde, NC Salon, Markham, Ont. Photo: Babak Makeup: Christina Nguyen
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Marlo Steenman, Hair Colour Hair by Marlo, St. Albert, Alta. Photo: Jake Thompson Makeup: Ashly McKessock
Shining at NAHA 2015 Canadian hairstylists were among some of the top winners at the 2015 North American Hairstyling Awards this summer, held in Las Vegas.
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Local B, Salon Team, Montreal Photo: Allysandra Cervantes Hair and Colour: VĂŠronique BeauprĂŠ, Mathieu Mainville, Mathieu Louis Sacob Styling: Vanessa Sanchez Makeup: Alison Sharp
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Paul Pereira, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year, Solo Bace, Toronto Photo: Mathew Guido Styling and Makeup: Paul Langill
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Touchable textures blend with a strong palette of autumnal and metallic shades to create a fashion-forward collection.
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Hair and colour: Damien Carney and Rossa Jurenas Assistants: Joey Marchese and Ally House Makeup: Whitney Heirweigh Nails: Nargis Khan Styling: Florence Durand Photos: Damien Carney
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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FREEDOM
RIDERS
Reflecting vintage colour stories, this collection also combines smooth and wavy textures for an unconventional, urban feel.
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Hair: Christophe Gaillet for L'OrĂŠal Professionnel Makeup: Izabela Szelagowska Styling: Anna Cichosz Photos: Weronika Kosinska
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Creative director and colourist: Vincent Nobile, Headcase Hair, Paddington, Australia Hair: Jon Pulitano Makeup: Cat Smith Photos: Andrew O'Toole See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Shots of colour are a counterpoint to the dark and dramatic feel in this energetic collection.
fierce
MYSTERY
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Hair: Sharon Blain, Sharon Blain Art of Education, Australia Makeup: Rachel Montgomery Styling: Emily Sue Yee Photos: Andrew O’Toole
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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infinite evolution Merging the aquatic and ancient worlds, this collection pushes the delicate boundaries of artistic beauty. salonmagazine.ca
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Hair and colour: Alex Newman-Sandowsky and Belinda Keeley, Chumba Concept Salon, Windsor, Australia Makeup: Lizzie Sharp Styling: Belinda Keeley Photos: Carl Keeley
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Blended textures stand out even more against sharply cut lines for dramatic impact.
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Sharp, cropped cuts are punched up with rich fall hues, creating a collection that’s clearly in focus.
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Flash Flash Lights Lights Lights salonmagazine.ca
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Hair and colour: Dmitri Papas and Justin Pace, Papas + Pace, Brisbane, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Elaine Marshall Photos: Andrew O’Toole
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Hair: Kristie Kesic, Stelios Papas Toowong, Brisbane, Australia Makeup: Megan Braunberger Photos: Elizabeth Grinter
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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femmes fatales Striking shots of colour mixed with textures create the urban edge in this collection.
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Hair and styling: Carly Wood, Mobile Wedding Hair, Sydney Makeup: Megan Vaughan Photos: Amy Nelson-Blain
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Inspired by the glamour and elegance of vintage styles, this collection takes a contemporary approach that’s both modern and glamorous.
vintage glamour
UNPLUGGED
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REBEL
rouser
With a focus on sharp, undone texture, these styles offer a casual urban appeal.
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2015-09-03 3:14 PM
Hair: Emily Warne and Peter Gibbs, Headromance, Hampshire, U.K. Makeup: Naoko Scintu Styling: Clare Frith Photos: Andrew O’Toole
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Hair, colour and styling: Chrystofer Benson, artistic director for Matrix Makeup: Danielle Donahue Photos: Dan Amezcua
See more photos and our exclusive interview SalonMagazine.ca/Hair.
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AROUND THE BLOCK
Basing the colour placement on the cut, this collection draws a sharp focus on the interplay between shapes and tones.
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Vivid hues are married with razor-sharp edges for a surprisingly soft collection that makes a strong statement.
UNYIELDING
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2015-09-03 3:19 PM
Hair: Peter Prosser and Sam Millard, Peter Prosser Hairdressing, County of Hereford, U.K. Makeup: Naoko Scintu Photos: Andrew O’Toole
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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arresting
development Capturing the fluidity of movement in a dream-like state, the stunning appeal of this collection is undeniable.
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.
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Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year: Andor Bubelenyi, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton Makeup: Barbie Soliman Styling: Annaliza Toledo Photos: Grant Olson
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CONTESSA 27 CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Stacey Abdella, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert, Alta. Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. John Jen Hoe Chong, Harrow Hair Company, Edmonton Vincent DiPlacido, Sadiva Coiffure, Laval, Que. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Stephanie Goguen, Funky Toque, Montreal Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont. Mandy MacFadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont. Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont. Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont. James Valiant, Suki’s Salon Spa, Richmond, B.C. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.
CANADIAN SALON TEAM Blushes, Ottawa, Ont. Civello Salon, Toronto Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg J’aime Coiffure, Montreal Kozeta Salon, Toronto Local B, Montreal Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Oblic Salon Urbain Villeray, Montreal ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Salon Pure, Montreal Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Suki’s Salon, Spa and Academy, Vancouver Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Toque & Cie, Victoriaville, Que. W.A.C. Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Zinc Hair, Vancouver Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C.
ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Tracy Catt, CherryBomb Hair Lounge, Red Deer, Alta. Domenic Commisso, Fiorio Square One, Mississauga, Ont. Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Anthony Crosfield, Union Salon, Vancouver Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Artine Ghazarian, Artine Hair, Edmonton Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon Urbain, Montreal Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Michel Moreau, Tchop Coiffure, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Kathy Simon, Mekka Systems, Montreal Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Domenico Tomei, Fernando Cellini Hair Salon, Ottawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont. Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg
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MASTER COLOURIST Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Philippe Ferreira, Axis Hair Salon, Vancouver Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Natalia Petcu, Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Mas'oud Salon, Toronto Rhianna Reddekopp, Terra Casa, Langley, B.C. Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg
CANADIAN COLOURIST Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Qi Salon, Toronto Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Katia Jananji, MonoKrome Salon, Montreal Soyeon Jin, Pomp & Proper Salon, Vancouver Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Joey Marchese, Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Christina Sgro, Inception Hair Studio, Thornhill, Ont. Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody, B.C. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasglow, N.S. Stef Toews, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver David Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto
SESSION HAIRSTYLIST
Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Amy Laing, Ponytails + Horseshoes, Edmonton Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Kirsten McIntosh, Freelance, Oakville, Ont. Kristin Page, Hedkandi Salon, Calgary, Alta. Simone Pettigrew, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont. Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Tania Triassi, Industria Coiffure, Laval, Que. Marilyn Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.
TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni + Perri, Barrie, Ont. Cindy Bartlett, Village Hair Studio, Mississauga, Ont. Cynthia Boisclair, Oxygen Coiffure, Drummondville, Que. Jenna Bosch, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat, Alta. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Lauren Froese, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Mathieu Hubert, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.
MEN'S HAIRSTYLIST Calvyn Cass, Brush Salon, Vancouver Matty Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, B.C. Shaun Hewitt, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Timothy Kuo, Salon Haze, Vancouver Maki Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Tyana Nichole, Pop Opera Salon, Vancouver Fabrizio Perciballi, P&H Salon and Spa, Toronto Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Sandra Perovic, Ignite Hair & Beauty Lounge, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont.
AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Catherine Allard, Odyssée Addikt, Montreal Sabrina Fiore, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Farhad Habib, Marca College, Mississauga, Ont. Alen Harush, Inception Hair Studio, Thornhill, Ont. Alexandre Melançon, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto Sabrina Picard, Studio Miuz, Trois-Rivières, Que. Stéphane Scotto di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal Ivy Tatlock, Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C.
MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Russel Bally, Ego Salon, Brampton, Ont. Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Soyeon Jin, Pomp & Proper Salon, Vancouver Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Eric St-Jean, Salon Saco Laval, Laval, Que. Cindy St. Pierre, What the Hair, Edmonton
HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST Chantel Allen, Pro Club 11, Edmonton Chloe Busenius, Salon + Spa ROXX, Sherwood Park, Alta. Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Lindsay Gray, Define Hair Design, Burlington, Ont. Jennifer Reid, Chatters Hair Salon, London, Ont. Sonia Yarkhani, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto
MAKEUP ARTIST Holly Decker, Holly Decker Makeup Artistry, Sasktatoon Heidi Fleming, Hair Expressions & Day Spa, Kingston, N.S. Katie Foster, Taz Hair Co., London, Ont. Noelle Hill, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Franca Perrotto, Franca Perrotto, St-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Que. Bree Powell, Makeup by Bree, Toronto Virginie T. Simard, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Rita Stirpe, Makeup by Rita Stirpe, Woodbridge, Ont. Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Salon Pure, Montreal Melanie White, Freelance, London, Ont.
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 3:26 PM
SEMI-FINALISTS CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST
Mylan Araujo, Mylan Nails, Brampton, Ont. Lucie Champagne, Salon Saco Laval, Laval, Que. Valerie Ducharme, Valerie Ducharme, Laval, Que. Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Liliya Leheta, Belle Beauty Boutique, Mississauga, Ont. Claire Misfud, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Naomi Misu, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Melissa Monderie, Studio 2075, Montreal John Nguyen, Freelance, Peterborough, Ont. Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair and Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta.
NEW HAIRSTYLIST Aubrey Bonnah-Vink, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Étienne Cloutier, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Ally House, NV Studios, Sarnia, Ont. Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont. Aaron Macri, Kharma Design Studio, Victoria, B.C. Brittany Ostash, Axis Hair Salon, Vancouver Sandra Perovic, Ignite Hair & Beauty Lounge, Vancouver Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. David Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. Jaelyn Walker, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver
STUDENT/APPRECTICE HAIRSTYLIST Kaitlin Belland, Rock Paper Shears Hair Studio, Edmonton Thalia Claveria, W.A.C. Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Sammie Manning, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Elizabeth Maximenko, Hairspray ‘N Gloss, Toronto Bailey Murphy, Avant Garde Hair Salon, Vancouver Maria Racco, Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Michael Sauvagoet, Donato Academy of Hairstyling and Aesthetics, Mississauga, Ont. John Seo, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Melek Shefket, Donato Academy of Hairstyling and Aesthetics, Mississauga, Ont. Monica Turingia, Stylers Hair Studio, Guelph, Ont.
ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Stacey Abdella, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert Curtis Anweiler, Collektive Hair Inc., Edmonton Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Kendra Bartlett, Salon + Spa ROXX, Sherwood Park John Jen Hoe Chong, Harrow Hair Company, Edmonton Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Beauty, Edmonton Beverly Robertson, Influence Salon, Calgary Cindy St. Pierre, What The Hair, Edmonton PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK
ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Jelena Frolov, Chatters Hair Salon, St. John’s, N.L. Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Angela Lockert, Tangerine Hair, Charlottetown, P.E.I. Sara-Lynn Sullivan, Salon 56, St. John’s, N.L. Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasglow, N.S.
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BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Travis Battaglia, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Karl Brown, Axis Hair Salon, Vancouver Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Soyeon Jin, Pomp & Proper Salon, Vancouver Maki Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Stef Toews, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Jordon Turner, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver
JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE
Amici Spa Inc., Markham, Ont. Artists Salon and Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont. Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Storm Hair Group, St. Catharines, Ont.
ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough Cindy Bartlett, Village Hair Studio, Mississauga Thelma Bento, Taz Hair Co., London Cassandra Boughner, Re-Treat Day Spa, St. Thomas Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Qi Salon, Toronto Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Lisa Tuff, P&H Salon and Spa, Toronto Rocky Vitelli, Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill
QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Nadia Abouwaked, Salon de Coiffure Effusion, Montreal Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Gilles-Bernard Brassard, Tonique Beauté SPA, Chicoutimi Cynthia Boisclair, Oxygen Coiffure, Drummondville Jean-Sebastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Geneviève Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal Eric St-Jean, Salon Saco Laval, Laval Chloe Ste-Marie, Oblic Salon Urbain Villeray, Montreal
SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Tara Keating, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask. Kelsie Kitzul, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Crystal Dawn Malchuk, Hair Takers, Brandon, Man. Pamela Ottava, Pam’s Hair Boutique, Winnipeg Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg Alicia Soulier, Capelli Salon Studio, Saskatoon Josie Vilayvanh, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Sara Whyte, Alchemy Salon, Saskatoon
SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Blueberry Hair Salon and Spa, Oakville, Ont. Concrete Blonde Hair & Body, Sherwood Park, Alta. Dean Delmonte & Company, Toronto Embrace Hair Salon & Spa, Waterford, Ont. Hair by David Salon, Toronto Images Salon & Spa, Scarborough, Ont. Indaba Hair Studio, Georgetown, Ont. Kozeta Salon, Toronto Maison Le Drew Costello, Toronto Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C.
Finalists listed online in October and in the November/December issue.
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Presented by
GOLD SPONSORS
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2015-09-02 3:25 PM
GET YOUR TICKETS
NOW! GALA
NOVEMBER 8, 2015 Early bird tickets available now: $160 October 15 to 29: $175 October 30 until Gala night: $200 Call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA
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CONTESSA GALLERY
Nicole Pede, Contessa 26 Finalist, Ontario Hairstylist of the Year
Nicole Pede has been working in the industry for nearly two decades and has been a salon owner for almost one. For her first Contessa entry, she dove headfirst, taking inspiration from helping others with their shoots while following her colourful passion.
1
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BLONDME BLONDE LIFTING
Nicole Pede Entering the Contessas is always a high-energy
Kaleidoscope of colours
affair—from organizing your shoot to that final
Contessa entrant newbie Pede knew that
moment you send in your entry, to gala night.
when she did her first collection, it was
When you’re a first-time entrant, that energy
going to be a balance between submitting
is tenfold, even if you’ve done a photo shoot
something that worked and something that
before. For Nicole Pede, a seasoned salon
was inherently her. “I looked at colours that
owner and industry pro, after years of building
were trending—obviously pastels and brighter
herself up to this moment, it was finally time
colours were at the top of that, but I’m really
to let her creative vision show through.
into jewels as well,” explains Pede. She cited
First-time fresh
the necklace as her jumping-off point, having
While she’d assisted on many shoots for
seen it a few years ago. She used its aurora
colleagues along the way, Pede realized that
borealis-like iridescence as an accent to the
some things change when you’re on set. “It
colourful pieces in the hair without overtaking
was a bit of a learning curve for me. It was
her finished look.
a lot of playing on set and moving things around,” she explains. One particular learning experience for her: “One of the styles I created didn’t portray as well in a vertical shot,” which meant nixing it from her entry collection and understanding that a style may be cool, but may not always work with certain photo orientations.
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S
2
PRAVANA CHROMASILK VIVIDS
Pede used this range of shades to get her multicoloured look, mixing and diluting each of the colours to get a customized finish.
3
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL OSIS+ SESSION LABEL FLEXIBLE HOLD HAIRSPRAY This mist was used to finish each of the styles, keeping them in place and battling flyaways.
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; HAIR STYLING AND COLOUR: NICOLE PEDE, INSTYLE SALON & SPA, AYLMER, ONT., MAKEUP: JESSICA BENNER, PHOTO: PAULA TIZZARD
Pede used this to tone and lighten hair prior to adding bright bursts of colour.
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-02 3:30 PM
Toronto
November 8th, 2015 Before Contessa Awards
NOT JUST HOW TO CUT HAIR, BUT WHY
BOOK YOUR SPACE NOW FOR THIS EXCLUSIVE ENGAGEMENT IN TORONTO ON SUNDAY NOVEMBER 8TH LEARN AN ENDLESS DEGREE OF TECHNIQUES TO ENHANCE YOUR CREATIVE POTENTIAL AND BOOST YOUR CONFIDENCE. Fusion Look & Learn Seminar: Sunday, Nov. 8, Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto. 9:30 - 3:30 Followed by hands on workshops from Nov 9 - 11 & 15 to 19. Special pricing for Contessa Awards guests. Tickets and info: salonmagazine.ca/mp
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In partnership with
+ KREATE.PRO
2015-09-02 1:56 1:55 PM
SALON PROFILE
Making a Natural
Connection Whether he’s on set or in the salon, Luis Pacheco takes a mindful yet scientific approach to his craft. By Anna Lee Boschetto
rom his Toronto salon, Medulla
F
Salon Magazine: What is your philosophy
As a colourist now, it’s important to adapt
& Co., to the editorial pages of
as both a hairstylist and a colourist?
to a new approach that younger artists may
consumer fashion and beauty
Luis Pacheco: I’ve been doing colour
be taking.
for over 20 years, and the approach I take is
forged a colourful path in the beauty industry.
a very natural one. For me, it’s about
Taking a personalized, if not unexpected,
enhancing someone’s personal best. I like
approach to colour—one that incorporates
more of the effortless colour. I'm more into
elements of mindfulness—Pacheco continues
hair painting, balayage and warmer tones
to push natural beauty concepts. “About
of sun-kissed hair.
two years ago I thought I would quit,” says Pacheco. “Then I realized that my work isn’t just about making people look beautiful but rather feel beautiful. I developed this new responsibility for what I do.” We spoke with the Canadian colourist to find out more about his hair colour philosophy and how the beauty industry has morphed in 20 years.
advanced. I feel, creatively, we are in a digital age. Everything is backlit, the look is filtered and the vibrancy—even with natural, warmer tones—has a brightness that wasn’t there before. Clients are also more knowledgeable
LP: I always like to look at pictures and may
about what is happening with their hair
ask clients to bring a photograph of their
chemically. If anything, hairstylists today know
dream colour or what they looked like when
more about their trade than ever before.
they were young. Once you get older, your hair colour tends to darken and lacks lustre. The other thing I’ve been doing is a kind of
what is around them, what they are wearing, the colour of their hair and use this as a starting point. I’ve never followed patterns, even with clients I’ve had for a while. The client always comes back with a different story, and there is a dialogue you have with their hair. SM: How is your work as a colourist different now than it was when you started? LP: Colours are now about creating digital tones and having this ability to mix and match these artificial tones in a beautiful and natural way. We live in a world where we are more accustomed to being comfortable. Hair colour is a feeling, and it affects how you feel.
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LP: The tools available are so much more
award-winning colour?
what to do. With their eyes closed I’ll ask
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innovation and technology?
SM: What’s your secret to achieving
mindful meditation when clients don’t know
88
SM: What is the difference in terms of
SM: Where should other colourists begin if they’re planning a career path like yours? LP: Don’t plan for anything and don’t have any expectations. Be open to different ways of doing things. Ask questions, turn to social media and try something that you have never done. The minute you stop making mistakes is the minute you stop learning. SM: How do you keep a fresh approach artistically? LP: Every day I feel like I’m learning, just like anyone else. You pick up a new way of doing things or a new technique. This is the part where you need to practise your new idea, and that allows you to find an exciting new climb. When it becomes mundane, that’s also the chance to practice your skill. It may not be new anymore, but this is your chance to be great at it!
S
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MEDULLA & CO.
magazines like Elle Canada, Luis Pacheco has
salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 1:59 PM
SALON BUSINESS
Clear Conscience Five ways to ethically staff your salon—and keep them, too!
2. TRAIN CONSISTENTLY Both Barbosa and Colley have very thorough training for all of their new staff members,
4. CREATE OPPORTUNITIES
no matter what level they’re at, to maintain
While both admit that attempts at poaching
consistency and fairness throughout the
on their staff are inevitable (and also a
salon. Barbosa explains that most of his
testament to the quality of staff you employ),
employees don’t start working on the floor
the best way to keep your employees happy
for a few weeks or start assisting more
and where they are is to breed loyalty.
senior staff before going through an intense
Provide ample opportunities for your staff to
taffing your salon with
16-week training program within the salon.
continue to learn and grow within their roles.
like-minded and hard-working
Colley reiterates that her nail artists start at
Colley explains that, at Tips, she gives all of
stylists and nail artists is often
the front desk while practising their technical
her nail artists the opportunities she’s been
easier said than done. We spoke with Roberto
skills on other staff, promoting team building
afforded: “Sometimes, other nail artists are
Barbosa, owner of Salon Escape in Toronto,
within the salon.
the team lead at fashion shows, getting to
S
and Leeanne Colley, owner of Tips Nail Bar in Toronto, to discuss some of the ways you can staff your salon ethically, keep your staff and
TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK
maintain a happy workplace in the process.
3. MIX BUSINESS WITH PLEASURE While you are running a business, team building is an integral aspect of keeping your staff happy. Barbosa explains that while some
connect with the designers to create looks, we all take part in doing editorial shoots or creating nail looks as part of our collection. The main thing for me is that everyone has the opportunity to grow.”
1. SOURCE YOUR STAFF ETHICALLY
of his monthly meetings are more focused
It should go without saying, but poaching
on operations, going through the salon’s
5. OPEN LINES OF COMMUNICATION
staff from other salons is never the way to
numbers and upcoming promotions, “It can
Barbosa explains that one of the ways to
grow your employee roster. Instead, follow
sometimes be a bit monotonous, so we
ensure that your staff is happy is to maintain
Barbosa and Colley’s examples and hire new
change it up so that some of the meetings
open lines of communication. While staff
talent straight from schools. While both have
are just about having fun and talking about
turnover is inevitable at some point, Barbosa
experienced other salon owners attempting
upcoming vacations or what we’re doing for
credits trust as one of the key components
to poach their staff, hiring from schools affords
the holidays.” Colley agrees: "We’re in an
of core staff: “It’s like any relationship: Once
you the opportunity to train your staff the way
environment where we have a lot of fun every
communication breaks down, you stop
you see fit. “It’s easier to train great staff when
day. For team building, we go on vacations
trusting and lose respect and loyalty.” He
they’re with you from the start,” says Colley.
together—it’s a hustle and it can be hard,
credits his monthly check-ins with each of
“Sometimes people get set in their ways
but at the end of the day, we have a great
his staff members for maintaining that trust
when they have a lot of experience.”
time together.”
and loyalty.
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SALON INTERIORS
Details: Opened May 2015 Design: Blazys Gérard Space: 2,500 square feet Materials: Marble, concrete and age-old natural stone Team: 8 stylist stations and 1 technical station Brands: L'Oréal Professionnel Kérastase
PHOTOS: ADRIEN WILLIAMS
Website: privepardaviddamours.com
See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca
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2015-09-03 4:22 PM
Sophisticated By Design A brand new Montreal salon wins a prestigious interior design award By Yasmin Grothé
O
nly a few months after opening its doors to a select clientele, Privé Par David D’Amours was honoured by the design community with
the Jury Prize from Commerce Design Montréal. “To create the look of the salon, I was inspired by the biggest fashion capitals of the world; I wanted a very sophisticated space with a few organic touches,” says owner David D’Amours of his very luxe salon nestled in a historic building in Old Montreal. Located a few steps down from the street, Privé Par David D’Amours is all about intimacy, respecting the needs of busy businesswomen and Quebec celebrities for a beauty break. “Here, clients can really let their hair down and indulge in a peaceful moment while we take care of all their hair needs—this is a very important aspect of our salon philosophy,” says D’Amours. With an impressive roster of high-profile clients (he even styled Celine Dion’s hair for the Billboard Music Awards ceremony last May in Las Vegas), D’Amours was adamant about providing his salon with the most flattering LED lighting system “in order for women to feel beautiful even when they’re having colour applied to their hair.” In fact, the notion of premium service is at the very core of the salon’s mission. “I wanted to create a type of '60s boudoir to generate a feeling of calm and relaxation,” says D'Amours. “These types of environments are very important when you are offering premium services.”
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Revlonissimo Fall In Love Collection pg 17
800-387-7980
Schwarzkopf IGORA Royal & Bonacure pg 4-5
800-463-3081
www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca
Soma pg 18
866-843-2257
www.somaorganics.com
Sunlights Balayage Lightener pg 37
855-820-7677
www.sunlightsbalayage.com
Unite Haircare 7SECONDS System pg 8-9
888-95-UNITE
www.unitehair.com
Unwash The New Clean pg 35
877-566-3376
www.modernbeauty.ca
SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 183 Bathurst Street, Suite 202, Toronto, Ontario, M5T 2R7, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059. Volume 24, Issue 13. salonmagazine.ca
2015-09-03 11:51 AM
SALON EVENTS
Davines North America Training in Montreal Details: For the very first time Davines North America held its training in Montreal July 14-17, 2015. Anna Pacitto, co-owner of über-celebrated Pure salon where the event took place and head of the Canadian team, led the inspiring educational seminar along with Abu-Ulba (Vancouver) and Kirsten Ganer-tolsøe Demant (Copenhagen), two other prominent Davines international artists. “My team and I were in Parma, Italy, in the spring when Angelo Seminara unveiled the new collection and we, in turn, presented it to our North-American stylists,” explains Pacitto. Thirty-five stylists from all over the US and Canada attended the influential four-day event. Next stop for the Davines North America dream team: Los Angeles, in January 2016! PHOTOS COURTESY OF DAVINES
Cosmoprof North America 2015
Details: The award-winning beauty tradeshow flooded into Sin City with over 1,000 exhibitors and 30,000 attendees from 39 different countries for the three-day event. Those present were able to network with some of the most influential professionals in the beauty business and were treated to unique brand and product launches which include the new Ohio based company, Fuel, an education focused brand with a no-nonsense curriculum and an eight-range product line. Other product launches included Theory with its new Saga 11 dryer that reaches 300 degrees and Sunlights Balayage’s new Balay Box, an everything-you-need-to-know training box for stylists learning to do perfect balayage. When & Where: July 12 to 14 in Las Vegas, Nevada PHOTOS COURTESY OF PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION
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SALON EVENTS
High Fashion Style at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week
Details: As the eighth men’s fashion week world wide, Toronto Men’s Fashion Week shines a global spotlight on Canadian menswear. American Crew’s Canadian artist Pete Goupil led the backstage team of hairstylists, including stylists from Fioro, and worked with designers in creating runway-ready looks. With the opening night party hosted by Audi on Monday, the presentations began on Wednesday and continued through Friday evening. Designers showcased looks for Spring/Summer 2015 and included Christopher Bates, Kenneth Barlis and Atelier Guarin. Highlights: According to Goupil, long and loose styles will be big for the upcoming season, well-defined cuts are still going strong but these looks will also feature more movement with a relaxed finish. When & Where: August 17 to 21, in Toronto PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMERICAN CREW
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2015-09-02 3:52 PM
SALON EVENTS
John Paul Mitchell System’s Business rEvolution: Giving Business New Life
Details: The premiere event brought together the industry’s top salon business experts, salon owners and stylists to highlight business building, development and show just how John Paul Mitchell Systems is dedicated to helping salons grow. Kathleen Jennings who worked with the brand in developing the app, introduced Beauty Now, an app that serves to make finding salons and booking stylists easier for clients. When & Where: July 26 to July 28, Las Vegas PHOTOS COURTESY OF PAUL MITCHELL
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SALON EVENTS
Premiere Orlando 2015
Details: Over 50,000 of the industry’s finest gathered at the Rosen Center for a three-day event. Attendees were treated to over 800 exhibits spread across 7.3 acres of show floor, and seminars with leading professional brand educators and beauty enthusiasts. This year’s main stage lineup included Paul Mitchell’s Robert Cromeans and Sassoon Academy’s Mark Hayes while 2014NAHA Colorist of the Year, Matrix’s Chrystofer Benson and Redken’s celebrity colorists Tracey Cunningham and David Stanko took to the Hair Color Stage to share some expert advice. When & Where: May 30 to June 1 in Orlando PHOTOS COURTESY OF PREMIERE ORLANDO
Goldwell Hairvolution 2015
Details: Everyone called it an “evening of inspiration” when Goldwell and KMS California Lead Artists took to the stage for Hairvolution 2015 at the River Rock Casino, May 31, 2015. Canapés and drinks rounded out the stage presentations, followed by a day of look and learn seminars. The team featured Edwin Johnston, Micheal Crispel, Sonn Brado, Rodica Hristu, Michelle Pargee, Robert Brown, Fanone International Team and Alan Earnshaw, with special guest Mario Krankl. When & Where: May 31 in Richmond, B.C. PHOTOS COURTESY OF GOLDWELL
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2015-09-03 4:23 PM
SALON SCOOP
1 NEW BUSINESS
Toronto’s Sassoon Salon moved from its Avenue Road location to the esteemed Yorkville neighbourhood
5 REASONS TO LOVE THE NEW ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM
this August. With the prestigious Sassoon Academy operating on the third floor of the 3,000 square feet three-story space, this new salon encapsulates, with true Sassoon style, the company’s commitment to excellence, creativity, and inherent beauty.
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Changing Places Effective September 1st 2015, John Fortunato will be the new General Manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. Leaving his role as Vice-President Sales with Sexy Hair Concepts, Fortunato will be returning to his home country once again. With over 20 years of experience in the Beauty Industry, Fortunato will be leading the Canadian team. With his depth of experience at the company, Frank Bruno has been appointed to Vice President of Sales for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. John Paul Mitchell Systems has promoted Jason Yates to serve as the brand’s new vice president of sales and marketing. Yates first stepped into the industry while on the salon floor over 25 years ago and has continued to fast track to the top. He will be heading up the team responsible for sales and training, implementing JPMS initiatives, strategies, and culture within the distribution network while also playing a key role in product development and product innovation. After serving at John Paul Mitchell Systems as national
PHOTOS: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, PAUL MITCHELL, MAX PAGANALLI, THE KIRSCHNER GROUP
Sales Director for four years, Max Paganalli has taken
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over the role of General Manager at Salon Centre where he’ll be working alongside Cosimo Minnella, Managing Director, and will continue to have a hand in all aspects of the Manitoba distributor’s business from sales, marketing and operations. Danny Thournout, territory manager for the Canadian team for The Kirschner Group, was awarded International Sales Executive of the Year for 2014
1 2 3 4 5
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for the company and, following this achievement, was presented the A World of Difference Award at Cosmoprof North America.
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SALON BY THE NUMBERS
Paint the Town
7
Number of salons that use Goldwell colour products
5,000
4
how many colours the brand offers in total
number of weeks between colour service touch-ups
Number of bottles of colour consumed in Canada each year
134 3
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of colour waste across Canada and the U.S.
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Igora Royal tubes on top of each other, that is roughly the height of:
Number of tubes of Koleston Perfect used every second around the world
Number of hair swatches tested every year
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34,288 pounds
If you stack
50,000
98
In 2014, Green Circle Salons diverted approximately
100,000
Number of years in the business
WELLA PROFESSIONALS
40
Hours to wait for the results of a colour allergy test before going ahead with colour service
1,183,047
GREEN CIRCLE
69
30
times the height of Mount Royal in Montreal
84
times the height of the Calgary Tower
times the height of the CN Tower in Toronto
PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
GOLDWELL
The inside scoop on how colour is making a statement in and out of the salon.
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2015-09-03 2:42 PM
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2015-07-28 2:01 PM
the joi of healthy color NEW Joico LumiShine transforms hair from the inside out with breakthrough ArgiPlex Technology, delivering astonishing shine, color longevity and overall healthier hair—guaranteed! • Hair with up to twice the shine* • 100% replenished and restrengthened hair** • Nourishing protection that seals in moisture, softness and shine for up to 30 full shampoos**
“I love everything about LumiShine— the rich color with brilliant transparency, the sweet scent, the easy-to-apply consistency, you name it.” Celebrity Colorist Denis de Souza Andy Lecompte Salon, West Hollywood
“LumiShine takes hair colour to the next level! I love the very low ammonia levels, amazing fragrance and the ease of application. The hair is left in incredible condition with unbelievable shine! Love it!” Shannon Simmonds, Salon Owner, Master Colorist, Contessa B.C. Hairstylist of the Year Winner, Joico Artistic Team Member On the Fringe Salon, Vancouver, B.C.
* Vs. untreated hair. ** Based on laboratory testing of damaged hair. ©
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Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada Ltd, Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3
JOICOCANADA.COM HAIR Joico Artistic Team
COLOR Denis de Souza
PHOTO Hama Sanders
2015-09-01 3:27 PM