Salon Magazine, October 2016 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, Ont., Canada L9R 1V1

28TH ANNUAL

SEMI-FINALISTS!

CONTESSA AWARD

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MISCHIEF IS MY MIDDLE NAME

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YOU’RE NOT GLISTENING TO ME!

NO TAMING MY TWINKLE

FALLING IN LUST-ER

I’VE BEEN GOOD-ISH

OCTOBER.16 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 52

LET THERE BE LIGHT

THE PERFECT BOND

GET FIRED UP WITH REDS

From golden browns and brondes, going lighter is one of the season’s hottest trends. We share some expert tips for achieving those lust-worthy locks.

With bonders everywhere this year, we take a look at the science behind some of the top ones on the market.

Reds are making a comeback, so we show you some key ways to achieve the must-have shades of the season.

ALWAYS A CORRECTION

COLLECTIONS

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

What to do when a client doesn’t like their colour? We break down the top five challenges of colour correction.

Michael Piastrano & Adrian Rotolo; Krysten-Ashley Garrod; Rossa Jurenas; Amanda Menz; Connor Lange; Revlon Professional; Tasha Stevens; Roxanne Benli; Michelle Pargee

See who made the cut with our semi-finalist list for the 28th annual Contessa Awards!

ROXANNE BENLI, ROKK EBONY, AUSTRALIA

ON OUR COVER:

Hair: Michael Piastrano, Ibiza Hair, Australia Colour: Adrian Rotolo Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Vass Arvanitis Photo: Andrew O’Toole

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

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NEW FROM

CONFETTI COLLECTION 5 NEW SEMI-PERMANENT SHADES!

ERASE WITH EASE Introducing ERASER, easy one-step direct dye/semi-permanent color removal in 30 minutes or less!

JOICOCANADA.COM

©Joico® Laboratories, HAIR: Joico Artistic Team COLOR: Sue Pemberton PHOTO: Hama Sanders

REGULARS 22 24

EDITOR’S LETTER

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

TASHA STEVENS, JAMIE STEVENS HAIR, LONDON, U.K.

AMANDA MENZ, FRUITION STYLE AMBITION, AUSTRALIA

Elevate your styling repertoire with the season’s latest products and styling tips, plus our must-have nail polish picks.

CONTESSA GALLERY

PROFILE

BUSINESS

Loretta Tom, Contessa 27 Finalist, Master Colourist of the Year

Next Dimension of Colour, Josh Wood

How to grow your retail sales with colour protection products

INTERIORS Techno Design: U Salon Boutique

EVENTS

BEST NINE

PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

FINALIST, CONTESSA 27 CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, MICHELLE PARGEE

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

HAIRLINES

PUTTING FEET FIRST

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

ROSSA JURENAS, STUDIO ROSSA, TILLSONBURG, ONT.

U SALON BOUTIQUE, SAINT-BRUNO-DEMONTARVILLE, QUE.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

NEW!

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VIBRANT COLOR HIGH PERFORMANCE

Create fashion fantasy effects. Stunning looks for stunning women.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Soma Colour Enhancement Procedures

Wash the client’s hair with Soma’s Clarifying Shampoo for a deep cleanse - removing styling and finishing product build-up and allowing for better color penetration.

Spray the client’s hair with Soma’s pH-balanced Leave-In Conditioner to even out the hair’s porosity for more even and beautiful color.

natural

BEAUTY

fter several seasons dominated by vibrant, pure pigments in hair colour, the pendulum has swung back to the softer, subtler side of things. Perhaps the resurgence of opulence

in fashion, with richly textured and multi-coloured fabrics taking over the runways, has caused the demand for more natural shades in hair colour. At the same time, this palette of natural blondes, brunettes and reds requires a keen artist’s eye to customize the right shade to suit an individual. Such artistry is something that Josh Wood, global creative director of colour for Wella

Apply Soma’s Complete Colour. This deposit-only color replaces any demi-color, while not fading like a demi-color (and does not fade brassy). It is great for sensitive scalps!

Professionals, is constantly honing. In Profile, the London-based colourist talks about his work with couture fashion designers, creating customized hues that complement each collection. Many salon clients have gone from loving their vibrant turquoises and royal blues for more than several summer festival seasons to looking for a change—something new and fresh. Yet, colour removal can be a tricky game—one that can put a colourist’s skills to the test. In “Always a Correction” (page 60), we spoke with Sue Pemberton, international artistic director for Joico, for her advice on colour correction, along with why she believes that any colour change is really a correction. Although blondes continue to be a natural choice, reds are making a resurgence for fall in deep, rich, multi-dimensional hues. As we get ready to celebrate excellence in the Canadian beauty

SOMA Hair Technology 1.866.843.2257 www.somaorganics.com Facebook.com/somahair

industry with the 2017 Contessa Awards, we are excited to share this year’s semi-finalist list on page 80. Thinking about attending this year’s Contessas? Find out more about what’s in store for gala night on page 34, where we announce this year’s theme.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Style the client's hair as desired using any of Soma's pH-balanced and SD 40 alcohol-free styling products. Low pH products keep the cuticle closed and prevent loss of color. Products with SD 40 alcohol cause immediate fading and dehydrate the hair.

salonmagazine.ca

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KEEP FRESH RIGHT-OUT-OF-THE-SALON COLOR IN BETWEEN APPOINTMENTS

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Only you should ever see your clients’ roots or grays. Keep them covered in between appointments with instant natural color camouflage that lasts until the next shampoo. @ruskhaircare / 800.USE.RUSK / www.rusk1.com 7 REFILLABLE SHADES FOR ARTISTIC BLENDING AND PRECISE COLOR MATCHING

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 25 issue 13

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Veronica Boodhan 416.869.3131 ext.119 veronica@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER

Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITOR

Erin Torrance 416.869.3131 ext.122 erin@salonmagazine.ca

THE LOVE OF

COPY EDITOR

Corinna Reeves

your craft

CONTRIBUTORS

Paul Chmieloweic GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

s I’m writing this story, our team here at Salon Magazine is

Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com

busy preparing for the judging of this year’s Contessas, and

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Wendy Lee Hynes 416.869.3131 ext.108 wendy@salonmagazine.ca

the office is a flurry of activity. At the same time, the Rio

PRODUCTION MANAGER

2016 Olympics are taking place, and though I have a bit of a love-

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

hate relationship with the Games—drug-testing corruption drives

OPERATIONS MANAGER

me crazy—I love the spirit of the competition. Hearing the stories of

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Karren Han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

our Canadian athletes, celebrating their wins and seeing how they handle their losses, you can’t help but admire them. When 16-year-

BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

old swimmer Penny Oleksiak won a Canadian record-breaking four

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.112 nicole@salonmagazine.ca

medals, she was asked what her goal was for her first Olympics. She

CHAIRMAN

simply said, “I just wanted to swim fast.” For Canadian Olympian

ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

Adam van Koeverden, competition is about so much more than

Pam Fulford

racking up medals. The Canadian kayaker reflected on winning and

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

losing, speaking eloquently about his love of the sport, being in the

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moment, doing your best and striving for excellence—simple goals yet, for many of us, much more complex to execute. During this past week, which was packed with Contessa and Olympic excitement, Suzanne Martin, the owner of Three Small

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Rooms in Barrie, Ont., and a well-known hairstyling competitor, called me about a Russian trainer she had discovered and recently brought

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to Canada. She believed this trainer could help push her through to

SA LON M AGA Z INE

the next level at the OMC Hairworld competition. Casually referring to

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herself as an “old hair rat who wanted to do better,” it was amazing to

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

hear her continued passion for competition.

and excel. In the end, it’s not about attaining the top prize; it’s about meeting friends along the way, building lasting relationships and becoming a better version of yourself that make the journey most meaningful.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

For all of its purity, simplicity and spirit, this is what I love about the true essence of competition: the desire to go further, do well

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We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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PLAY WAY PAST MIDNIGHT CELEBRATION! 8 new shades from CND.

Rock the party. Show off with new shades of festive colour that are just as unexpected as you are. Go party. Go all out. Go celebrate. Just go play.

459 Extravaglint

431 Happy Holly Day

471 Naughty or Vice

479 Revelry Red

475 Stellarbration

450 Turquoise Tidings

449 Foiled Again

127 RSVPlum

online at

BE THE FIRST TO KNOW Make sure you’re signed up for our weekly online newsletter and be the first to know who the #Contessa2017 semi-finalists are! Go to SalonMagazine.ca to sign up now!

COLOUR CORRECTION 101 What do you do when a client is unhappy with her colour? Visit SalonMagazine.ca for tips on colour correction services

GET YOUR CONTESSA GALA TICKETS! We’re already counting down to November 6—make sure you get your Contessa gala tickets early and

The Biggest Looks for Fall Fall fashion is bringing in some beautiful hairstyles this year! Visit SalonMagazine.ca/Collections to see what’s new and fresh for the season.

SalonMag 26

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

Salon_Magazine

SalonMagazine

save some cash—tickets are $170 until October 11. Visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessas to order tickets online.

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections! Salon Magazine

PHOTO: HAIR: CHRISTINE MARGOSSIAN, MAKEUP: VALÉRIE DUMOND; STYLING: MC LINE; PHOTOS: BRUNO ESTATOFF,THINKSTOCK, MAJA HAJDUK

and how to manage a client’s colour expectations.

SalonMagazine s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

W E N

REAL. AUTHENTIC. WHOLESOME. Discover the new R.A.W. feel. Professional care that hair craves.

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RED HOT

HAIRLINES NEWS

CUE THE CURLS Moroccanoil expands its beloved curl collection with four new products.

GET SIZZLING COLOUR WITH THE NEW GOLDWELL RED COLLECTION.

The Moroccanoil product family is growing with the addition of four new cleansing and styling products to its curl collection.

showcases four distinctive looks designed by international artistic

Joining the brand’s beloved Curl Defining Mousse, Curl

team member Rodica Hristu. The Deep Violet Service, Fiery Red

Control Mousse and Intense Curl Cream, the Curl Enhancing

Service, Glowing Mahogany Service and Shimmering Copper

Shampoo and Conditioner duo is formulated with Abyssinian

Service redefine reds using the brand’s latest Topchic Effects and

oil, hydrolyzed vegetable protein and argan oil for smoother

@Elumenated shades. Topchic Effects feature Goldwell’s patented

hair that combats frizz and enhances curls while leaving hair

direct dye technology for up to four levels of lift and brilliant colour

light and bouncy with elasticity and shine. The Curl Cleansing Conditioner detangles and conditions curly hair with its blend of argan oil, tea tree oil and jojoba oil. The Curl Re-Energizing Spray contains a blend of argan oil and green tea to reactivate curls and boost moisture, restoring curly hair’s shape, bounce and shine while fighting frizz. With the four new products, you can

Opening up reds for a range of clientele, Goldwell’s latest collection

(including on dark hair) and are available in copper, red, violetred, copper-red and red-violet. The nine new @Elumenated shades feature oxidative hair colour with an added layer of multi-faceted direct dye reflections with the addition of colour spectrums for reds, blondes and brunettes.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: MOROCCANOIL, GOLDWELL, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

help amplify your client’s curls from washing to styling.

Cleansing Care Skip the shampoo with L’Oréal Professionnel's cleansing conditioners.

salonmagazine.ca

Ideal for clients whose hair is sensitive

phase, which removes impurities

to washing, these cleansing conditioners

without stripping the natural lipidic

are silicone-free and feature a high-fibre

film of the hair fibre. Available in four

tolerant formula with technology that

formulas—Vitamino Color for colour-

provides a gentle cleansing alternative

treated hair, Curl Contour for curly hair,

to traditional shampoos. The lightweight

Absolut Repair for damaged hair and

conditioning phase provides hair fibres

Liss Unlimited for unruly hair—there’s a

with intensive conditioning and care

cleansing conditioner that fits each of

before morphing into a soft cleansing

your clients’ hair needs and concerns.

o c t o b e r. 1 6

salon

HAIRLINES NEWS

COLOUR

NATURE

Kudos to Kadus Wella Professionals acquires European lifestyle brand Kadus.

Embrace nature this fall with the Essensity Pure colour collection from Schwarzkopf Professional. The brand’s ammonia-free, oil colouration line

acquisition of the European lifestyle brand Kadus. The new value line of colour

has garnered

and care products includes 44 shades of permanent and demi-permanent

inspiration from

colour. The Kadus colour line is formulated with a lipid-infused, rich crème for

nature for its latest

superior coverage and Vitaflection Microsphere technology, which activates

looks. From rich

500 trillion Vitaflection Microspheres to penetrate deep into each hair fibre

Brown Caoba Wood to trendy Pastel

for smooth, shiny and vibrant results. Kadus care products include blonding

Rosewood to classic Blonde Sandalwood,

powder and velvet oil, along with colour vibrancy, visible repair, deep

the collection’s six earthy tones are

moisture and impressive volume systems. The care line features Radialux

formulated with plant-based oils that

Instant Micro-Ion Technology, which includes a combination of protective,

feature Phytolipid Technology for vivid,

scientifically proven ingredients for instant, long-lasting results.

long-lasting colour and shine.

NEXT TIME! The Sebastian Professional What’s Next Awards are returning for another year of creative inspiration and fierce competition. Marking its fifth anniversary, the What’s Next Awards gives entrants a chance to “defy expectation” and “define their own destiny” as they draw inspiration from the brand’s Eclectic collection. With hairstylists from across North America competing in the Professional, Student and Affiliated Artist categories, we can’t wait to see what these year’s hopefuls come up with! This year’s deadline is January 9, 2017, with the live finale on March 5, 2017, in Dallas. For the competition’s rules and more information, visit facebook.com/sebastianprocanada.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KADUS, SCKWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

Wella Professionals continues to expand its portfolio of brands with the recent

salonmagazine.ca

HAIRLINES NEWS

LUSCIOUS COLOUR GET LONGER-LASTING, VIBRANT RESULTS WITH THE NEW PRAVANA CHROMASILK COLORLUSH. The brand’s ammonia- and MEA-free demi-permanent hair gloss line is newly revamped with exclusive technology for radiant, durable colour. Its omega-9 oil delivery complex is derived from avocado, olive and grapeseed oils for nourishing colour. Available in 27 intermixable shades and five colour boosts, it allows you the freedom to create trendy looks ranging from silvers, blues and purples to classic colours like golden blonde, deep mahogany and rich red. With ColorLush, give your clients shiny, translucent colour with a gentle, no-lift application.

Optimize your colour looks with the new demiand semi-permanent lines from Paul Mitchell.

Help your clients achieve their ideal look with Revlonissimo Cromatics. Whether you’re adding highlights, creating intense shades or pushing the envelope with fantasy colour, the new line helps you personalize your look. With shades like Tangerine Red, Fire Red, Purple Red and Purple Aubergine, Revlonissimo Cromatics feature high-performance formulas that deliver vibrant colour. The line was used to create the radiant copper shade featured in Revlon Professional’s

The Demi from Paul Mitchell features 27

vivacious autumn/

intermixable demi-permanent shades of

winter 2016 Party

ammonia-free, deposit-only colour and

Collection, which

gently conditions the hair, providing shiny,

showcases three

long-lasting colour for four to six weeks.

trendy looks in a

The vibrant Pop XG semi-permanent line

whimsical celebration

helps you unleash your creative side with

of art.

13 bold intermixable shades (without the need for a developer) and includes a rich conditioning base that provides hair with the nourishment it needs while delivering up to six weeks of long-lasting colour.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

| To see a video of the Revlon Professional Party Collection in action, visit SalonMagazine.ca

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: PRAVANA, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, PAUL MITCHELL

d e t oa

r u o ol

Get Creative!

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MALIBU MAKEOVER DETOX Â®

EVERY CLIENT NEEDS THIS HAIR REHAB SERVICE!

STEP 1

STEP 2

www.MalibuC.com/Prof 1.800.622.7332 Global Problem Solving Without: Gluten, Parabens and Sulfates

HAIRLINES NEWS

TOOLBOX

Redken Heatcure Professional TIGI’s Bed Head Colour Trip pushes the boundaries of semipermanent colour. The electric range of 12 semi-permanent shades is breaking the rules of traditional semi-permanent colour. Formulated

“

For people who colour their hair a lot and have damaged hair that is prone to breakage, the Heatcure system helps reinforce and strengthen hair and add shine.

”

– Tracy Catt, national performing artist for Redken

with hydrolyzed keratin and coconut oil for strengthening and conditioning, the line’s long-lasting formula lasts up to 20 shampoos. The Bed Head Colour Trip

Used in conjunction with Redken’s Heatcure formula to restore damaged hair for up to 10 washes

range is intermixable, allowing colourists to create custom colour cocktails for their clients, and it can also be used for enhancing, correcting, retouching and refreshing your client’s look.

Look Into the

#FUTURE It’s almost time for the 28th annual Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards! Travel to the #Future with us at the awards gala at Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto on November 6. This year we roll out the red carpet with

Ceramic plates use a lower calibrated heat setting that provide deep formula penetration up to the cortex

our cocktail party—an opportunity to mingle with leading

Single set temperature setting of 284°F, with an indicator light that turns solid when tool is ready to use

industry experts. We're excited to welcome back Bill Rowley, who is sure to be cracking jokes on-stage as the gala host. With engaging presentations, memorable acceptance speeches and delicious eats, this year’s event is not to be missed. Be sure to get your early bird tickets before

Designed in collaboration with leading professional tool manufacturer T3 Micro Inc.

the Canadian beauty industry. We look forward to seeing you there!

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTOS:TIGI, REDKEN

October 11 for the biggest night of the year in

salonmagazine.ca

HAIRLINES NEWS

Purple Reign

WORRY-FREE WARDROBE Update your work wardrobe with Blackpants’ bleach-resistant clothing line. The stylish line provides modern clothing pieces that take the stress (and mess!) out of colouring hair. Designed with hairstylists in mind, the

Intensify your purple shades

Australian brand uses its exclusive Stayblack

with Scruples True Integrity

bleach-resistant stretch fabric that’s non-fading,

Creative Blends Kit featuring the new Purple Intensifier. The kit’s Purple Intensifier is a pure pigment additive, which helps enhance all violet shades while diminishing unwanted yellow tones. When added to any True Integrity

tint-proof, hair-repellent and non-pilling. The Blackpants Milan tunic is a chic alternative to the standard colourist’s apron, with a tailored fit and zippered front. The brand’s Intelligent Legging is so “smart” that it helps relieve aching legs with power mesh shaping panels that slim, sculpt, lift and firm legs. The clothing is available to purchase through blackpants.com.au.

shade, the Purple Intensifier allows you to create colour with depth and vibrancy and can also be used for customizing colour blends and colour correction. The kit also features a True Integrity crème

THINK

COMPETITIVE BY NATURE

green

booster, three colour shades and one clear, along with a swatchbook that features five new blends from

Green Circle Salons names the winners of its Earth Month competition.

of the season’s hottest hair colour

Salons from across North America

Vancouver. The video earned Zazou

trends, including denim and blush.

demonstrated their passion for

Salon & Academy first place and

hairstyling and preserving the

the grand prize of a forest of 1,500

environment by participating in

trees planted in the salon’s honour.

Green Circle Salons’ Earth Month

Second place was also awarded

competition. Each salon was required

to a Canadian salon: Designhouse

to submit a one- to two-minute

Salon in Victoria, B.C., earned one

video of its stylists cutting or styling

month of free recycling collection

hair in a natural outdoor setting, or

for its video montage of Well Fed

incorporating elements from nature

Beauty, the salon’s fundraising

into its in-salon creations. Zazou

event that combined food, music

Salon & Academy in North Vancouver

and beauty and featured exquisite

took its submission to new heights

nature-inspired hair creations. Harper

with an artistic video of the salon’s

Salon in Los Angeles placed third and

senior stylist, Shaun, giving a client

was awarded a $200 donation to the

a fade while on the suspension

charity of its choice for its cheeky

bridge at Lynn Canyon in North

video promoting recycling in salons.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see the winning videos from Green Circle Salons’ Earth Month competition.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTOS: SCRUPLES, BLACKPANTS

Scruples’ artists for achieving some

salonmagazine.ca

HAIR COLOUR IS ART. EACH CLIENT IS YOUR CANVAS.

INTRODUCING FREESTYLE.LIGHTENER, A CLAY-BASED LIGHTENER FOR FREEHAND APPLICATIONS THAT ALLOWS YOU TO BE THE ARTIST. PAINT, LIFT, HIGHLIGHT AND CREATE NATURAL, SUN-KISSED RESULTS WITH UP TO SEVEN LEVELS OF LIFT.

WITH FREESTYLE.LIGHTENER, NOW YOU CAN EXPERIENCE MAXIMUM CREATIVE FREEDOM.

HAIRLINES NEWS

Pure Genius Nourish and restore hair with ColorProof’s CC PrimeGenius Anti-Aging Style Extending Primer. The lightweight primer contains a blend of antiaging ingredients, which strengthens and repairs

Keep It Simple

colour-treated hair, including microemulsion silicone, soy and pea proteins, safflower

Cater to every shade of blonde with Simply Blonde by Kenra Professional. Targeting the three key colour concerns of every blonde, Kenra

seed oil, matricaria flower extract, vitamin E and B5 panthenol. ColorProof’s Advanced ColorLast

Professional’s Simply Blonde helps simplify blonde colour. Lift up to eight levels in a single application with the Blue Powder Lightener or use the two-step Transparent Lightener for up to five levels of lift while managing underlying pigments for a brighter, longer-lasting

System, which features chromaveil and heliogenol and FlexShield Technology, provides an invisible and flexible shield to protect against thermal styling damage up to 450°. Apply the primer to

blonde. The line consists of four products, including two lighteners,

hair before styling to even out the hair’s porosity,

a lifter and toner that will refine the art of colouring. With a simple

which allows styling products to adhere to each

formula of lift, control and tone, each product works with you so you can tackle any blonde shade your client is dreaming of.

strand more effectively and reduce static, frizz

Eye-Opening Colour +

HELP CLIENTS COMPLETE THEIR COLOUR TRANSFORMATIONS WITH REFECTOCIL EYELASH AND EYEBROW TINTS. These professional tints are designed exclusively for eyelash and eyebrow use to help your clients achieve a cohesive look. Available in an assortment of colours, ranging from blonde, brunette and red to grey, deep blue and black, the tints are also available for clients with sensitive eyes and sensitive skin. So whether your client is opting for a natural look or playing up colour this season, RefectoCil eyelash and eyebrow tints can be the perfect add-on for your colour services.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KENRA PROFESSIONAL, COLORPROOF, REFECTOCIL

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SHINING star OPI adds model-musician Pyper America Smith to its brand ambassador roster. With OPI’s (highly anticipated) launch of its 30 most iconic shades, now available in the brand’s longwear lacquer line, Infinite Shine, it’s only fitting to have a buzzworthy brand ambassador to coincide with the release. Model and musician Pyper America Smith has more than 700,000 followers on Instagram and has been a fan of the brand for years. According to OPI’s co-founder, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, Smith inspires a new generation of women with her confidence and ability to reinvent herself. The 30 iconic shades include some cult classics, such as Big Apple Red, Lincoln Park After Dark

Autumn Indulgences

HAIRLINES NAILS ORLY Inspired by one of California’s most iconic roadways, the Mulholland collection contains a range of creamy, decadent shades, including the glittery Party in the Hills.

CHINA GLAZE No need to go hunting for the perfect colour this season with China Glaze’s The Prowl collection of contrasting bright and dark tones.

ESSIE Let nails “fall” into place this season with the latest collection from Essie, including a range of seasonal colours.

and Vampsterdam.

PLAY ON

OPI Get a handle on your clients’ nail colour conundrums with the Washington DC collection by OPI creative brand ambassador and Scandal star Kerry Washington.

BIO SCULPTURE GEL Get a jump on your holiday looks with Bio Sculpture Gel’s fall/winter collection of luxurious shades, such as the festive Jeweled Opulence.

Tennis is highly regarded as one of the most stylish sports, so when teaming up with CND, American Crew and Revlon Professional for the Rogers Cup, it’s nothing short of a “match” made in heaven. American Crew and Revlon Professional provided hair touch-ups for players like Novak Djokovic and Milos Raonic, while CND offered Creative Play manicures in the players’ lounge. With 80 shades in 10 finishes, CND’s Creative Play nail lacquer line provided players and their families with game- and photo-ready looks.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

LCN Fall in love with LCN’s latest collection of romantic shades, featuring the redhot Dusky Rouge and pearly pink Kiss Me Goodnight.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: OPI, ORLY, CHINA GLAZE, ESSIE, BIO SCULPTURE GEL, LCN, INSTAGRAM

CND’s Creative Play makes its mark at the Rogers Cup.

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PUTTING FEET

first

While our feet may be out of sight this season, they shouldn’t be out of mind. We get some expert advice for keeping your clients’ toes in tip-top shape.

e may have said “so long” to sunny days and sandals, but that’s no reason for feet to be ignored. Help your clients put their best foot forward this season by revamping your pedicure services for the

colder months ahead. “Pedicures aren’t just about painting your toenails; they are about the health of your feet and the beauty of your nails,” says Liliya Leheta, education ambassador for CND.

WHY NOW? It’s a common misconception that clients are only interested in pedicures during the warmer months. While you’re likely to see a significant spike in pedicure sales in the summertime, maintaining proper foot care becomes even more of a priority in fall and winter. “Depending on the climate you’re in, toenails can become more brittle because of the dry weather. If someone already has dry skin, their skin is only going to get drier in fall and winter,” explains Meredith Thompson, LCN educator and owner of Wellspring Private Spa in Calgary. “Areas that experience pressure, such as the heels, may be prone to more cracking. And, because feet are in footwear more, people with clammy feet may be more prone to fungal infections. The cold weather may also exacerbate circulation issues.” With the busyness of the holiday season that’s soon to follow, it’s a good idea to get clients into a foot-care routine during the fall months. It’s helpful for clients so that they can easily maintain their foot-care regimen throughout the winter. For salons, it’s important to get into the pedicure mindset for clients who, in addition to the numerous parties and events they have lined up for the holidays, are likely counting down the days until their holiday vacations. “More than 50 per cent of my business is pedicures,” says Leheta. “As nail techs, it’s they aren’t just needed in the summer. It helps keep them coming back.” Leheta suggests promoting pedicures and foot care by hosting in-salon special events and education classes.

ONE “STEP” AT A TIME To increase your pedicure numbers this season, it’s important to invest as much effort in presenting your salon’s pedicure and foot-care products and services as you do in your polishes. “Most pedicure menus and price lists look the same— they're boring,” explains Leheta. “To attract more clients, it’s important to make the menu special and more interesting to read. I list all the services I have, and the key is to name them something special but not too complicated.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

our responsibility to educate clients about the importance of pedicures and why

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HAIRLINES NAILS For example, for someone who just wants a simple polish without much else, I would call it something like Aromatic Pedicure, which includes a soak and lotion. Or for tired feet, a Radiance Pedicure includes a revitalizing soak. It’s important to always try to customize the service.” Expanding your menu by offering additional pedicure and foot-care services, such as relaxing foot massages and exfoliating paraffin treatments, can also be a great way to boost pedicure revenue during the colder months. “Paraffin treatments are extra-popular in

head over heels

Help your clients get pedi-ready with these foot-care product picks. Recommending foot-care products as add-ons to your clients’ services is another easy way to maximize your pedicure revenue while allowing clients to maintain their foot-care routines at home.

Leheta suggests CND Spa, a botanical collection of foot-care products, and CND RescueRXx nail treatment, which contains keratin protein and jojoba oil to strengthen and moisturize damaged nails.

the colder months because they are warm,” says Thompson. “With the dry weather, the treatments are so emollient, they dilate the blood vessels and make the feet feel really good.” Thompson adds that it’s important for technicians to refine their pedicure skills for a wide range of clientele. LCN offers a range of

GARDENIA WOODS LOTION “It’s a good moisturizer with a botanical blend of chamomile and sandalwood for clients who suffer from dryness.”

BRIGHT CITRON LOTION “The blend of hydrating honey and purifying kaffir lime revitalizes skin to make it glow. It smells amazing, too!”

education classes for advanced pedicures as well as Pedique, a light cured toenail resin for reconstructing damaged nails.

KNOW YOUR CLIENT Not all clients are interested in pedicures for their cosmetic benefits. For Thompson’s male clients, she says it’s about putting health before beauty. “They are coming to me for specific reasons,” she explains. “It’s not because they want their feet to look attractive; they want

RESCUERXX “Many women have really dry and damaged nails after the summer because they constantly wear nail polish and their nails become soft and dry. This intensive treatment is made to moisturize nails that peel, chip and have white spots.”

CUCUMBER HEEL THERAPY “For extra-dry skin, these products provide soothing hydration to cracked heels and contain alpha-hydroxy acids.”

their feet to be healthy. It’s a bit of a different focus, but when you approach it that way, your customers will be very loyal because now it becomes a need, not a want.” Leheta recommends creating a separate

For very dry feet, Thompson suggests LCN’s foot-care product line, which takes a therapeutic approach to foot care.

menu for men that customizes pedicure services according to their needs. “You have to able to customize the service for the client,” she says. “A regular menu can be confusing for men, and it makes it more special if they have their own menu. One of the pedicure services I offer includes a purifying soak and conditioning scrub. It’s for men who tend to have drier skin—they really appreciate it.” After a long day’s work, achy feet can use some pampering no matter what time of year. Since feet can also be an indicator of other health problems, it’s important to give clients’ feet the attention and priority they deserve.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

BALI RELAX CHAPPED SKIN BALM “Use it very minimally—a little goes a long way. It holds so much moisture in the skin to give skin more elasticity so it bends before it breaks. It gives feet a chance to heal.”

10% UREA FOOTCARE LINE “I recommend this for clients with circulation issues. It’s based on humectants instead of emollients. It’s an excellent line for seniors and diabetics.”

PHOTOS: CND, LCN

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SIDE EFFECTS Some swelling, puffiness and bruising that lasts for about two to three days. RESULTS Emervel Lips lasts for about one year. COST $600 and up, depending on how much you use. The amount of Emervel Lips used depends on if the lip requires more definition on the vermilion border or if the goal is to provide more volume overall. If you are thinking of getting your lips enhanced, here are a few things to think about:

1. Plan ahead. “If you want to look

great at a party, get your lips done two weeks before, not just because of bruising and swelling but also due to the anxiety factor,” says Dr. Kellett. “You won’t have to worry about worrying about it.” Plus, by the second week, you’ll become accustomed to your new look, so you can flaunt those new lips with confidence.

2. Avoid duck lips The art of lip

enhancement is very precise. “The lip has to be perfect,” says Dr. Kellett, “which means I take into account the size ratio of the upper lip to the lower lip and also consider the projection of the lip. You can’t overproject the top of the lip. If you do, then you will have duck lips,” which is unattractive and unnatural.

3. Get lips made for you The goal

of lip enhancement for Dr. Kellett is to “provide lips that fit the person.” Lovely lips on someone else might not work on your face! You wouldn’t buy a skirt that looks good on the hanger but bad on your body when you try it on, so why try that with your lips?

PSST, HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT… When you’re styling clients’ hair, we all know the conversation can get pretty personal, so the next time your clients complain about their latest beauty issue (maybe sagging jowls or forehead lines), tell them to pick up Elevate Magazine for cosmetic and anti-aging solutions.

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When it comes to lip injections, ducklips are the biggest deterrent. We spoke to Dr. Lisa Kellett, MD, FRCPC, a dermatologist at DLK on Avenue, who was able to reassure us that the new Emervel Lips, a hyaluronic acid filler specifically for the lips, provides women with voluminous lips without the quack factor. Emervel Lips is part of the Emervel family of products, which includes Classic, Deep and Volume and is used on different areas of the face. As a lip filler, Dr. Kellett likes it because “it has a more favourable side-effects profile, and patients like it because it gives them natural-looking lips,” she says.

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HAIRLINES MEN'S

SILVER foxes Last year, girls rocked hot granny grey hair. And now the guys are falling hard for the look, too. From Bieber to global soccer stars, silver is the way to go. We share all the secrets with you here!

WORK IT! “There’s definitely a big trend for greyish blonde in men’s hair award-winning Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa and blogger at DearHairdresser.ca. “We’re seeing a lot of young professionals come in the salon asking for all-over silver—not just streaks or highlights like in the past.” Teens, too, embraced the trend the second Bieber snapped pics of his silver-blonde coif on Instagram last summer. And when global soccer superstars Lionel Messi and Aaron Ramsey started experimenting with the look, it became even more relatable and approachable for salon clients. Because trends often begin with

Styling your sterling: your go-to products Wella Professionals

Resintek from Sebastian

Blondor

Professional

“This amazing lightener

“For a glam finish, this high-shine

provides loads "of lift

product creates an amazing wet

without killing the hair.”

look and it can be reworked

— Ramsey Sayah

— Gianpaolo Colombo,

celebrities and then filter down to the mainstream, “It makes

Matte Putty

you feel secure when you see others wearing a certain style,”

Professional

Older men? “Naturally, grey hair blends superbly well with these

A soft, matte

cool hues, and it’s a style right now,” says Sayah. “It’s definitely an their silver.”

MATURE AND NATURAL

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from Sebastian

says Sayah.

interesting time for more mature guys to experiment with

to shape and define.”

moisturizing paste that creates a malleable hold.

Most men are okay with embracing their natural greys. “It’s a

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cool and sexy style for the 30-to-50 set,” says Gianpaolo Colombo,

“My favourite way to create a striking silver head of hair is to first lighten the

Sebastian Professional Design Team artist and art director

hair as much as possible, bringing it to a level nine or 10 with Blondor by Wella

at Hairafter Salon & Spa in Toronto and winner of Sebastian

Professionals at 20 volumes for 20 minutes,” says Sayah. If it’s not pale enough, he

Professional’s 2016 What’s Next Awards.

repeats the process until the hair reaches the desired level. For clients with lighter

“If you want to transition your regular client who comes in for colour without losing that income, you can start working in some

hair as a starting point, he uses a high-lift blonde in a 40 volume. To select the toner, Sayah usually asks clients to pick the hair they like online

lowlights,” recommends Colombo. “And if he’s really ready to drop

by using Google images on a phone or tablet. Really? Why not the colour chart?

colour altogether and flaunt his greys, we do a Cellophane Ice

“People’s perception of colour is always closer to what they want if they see it on

Blond gloss, which has a purple hue that gives a fresh and vibrant

someone else.”

look to greys and protects hair from UV rays.” In terms of cut and finish, since natural grey hair tends to be a bit

Next, choose a very cool ash tone in a demi-permanent or deposit formula. “I really like the toners offered in the Wella Professionals Ilumina Color and Re-lights

dry and drier hair produces flyaways and stray hairs that stick out,

series. There are just so many to choose from, so you can customize the colour as

“You want to keep it really short on the sides, with a tight fade, and

much as you want.”

a bit longer on top like a pompadour,” advises Colombo.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

There you go. Now you’re all set to strike it rich with silver.

TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ, PHOTOS: HAIR: MICHAEL FRANCOS; MAKEUP: LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS; STYLING: JACKIE AMBROSE; PHOTO: GARY NUNN

colour at the moment,” confirms Ramsey Sayah, owner of

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HAIRLINES NEWS

editor’s

PICKS

From repair remedies to styling saviours, we’ve got you covered.

1. THE RETURN OF THE MYTH Mythic Oil is back, with 10 times more natural oil and eco-friendly packaging (up to 25 per cent recycled PET plastic). The product range also contains new signature perfumes and delivers a strong performance for all hair types. lorealprofessionnel.ca 2. RICH COLOUR Achieve four levels of lift in just one step with Joico’s DuoLight line. Intermixable with the line’s Caramel and Copper shades, DuoLight requires no foils and lifts and deposits in half the time for brilliant results. joico.com 3. DUAL STRENGTH Repair damaged hair while protecting it from UV rays and sizzling temperatures (up

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

to 428°F) with Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue Nutri-Shield Serum. schwarzkopf-professional.ca 4. INVISIBLE POWERS With all the power of a styling cream, Sublimate is lightweight, so it blends seamlessly into the hair. It can be used repeatedly throughout the day for cashmeresmooth shine and control against frizz and flyaways. sebastianprofessional.com

5. FRESH AND CLEAN Revive your style with Eufora’s Fresh Effect, a zeroweight dry shampoo that absorbs dirt and oil for soft, refreshed hair without any powder or residue. eufora.net

6. HAIR REPAIR Bring damaged hair back to life with Aveda’s Damage Remedy Split End Repair, a restorative leave-in treatment applied to the ends of dry hair. aveda.ca

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C

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LET THERE BE

LIGHT

Golden browns and brondes — all your top-shelf shades for the season — are high on the radar right now. And “Customizing” is the key word for creating those unique and coveted colours your clients will fall for. By Yasmin Grothé

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

salonmagazine.ca

t’s the natural evolution of ombrés and sombrés that has led to these new molten blondes and eye-catching caramels. "At Wella, this inspired us to create Bronde Luxe, our fall 2016 trend,”

says Jean-Sébastien Tremblay, field education capability master for Wella Professionals Canada. "And thanks to these innovative colour applications, you can create an element of surprise and ‘guide’ the eye to a specific part of the hair.”

CUSTOMIZING IS CRUCIAL

FROM LIGHT TO DARK Taking pale blondes to a darker shade is not a one-step process. Because lightened hair tends

But before anything, these über-personalized shades are achieved by

to be a lot more porous, skilled colourists know

assessing your client’s wants and needs. “An in-depth consultation is

they need to fill the hair so that the colour

essential because services like these aren’t created with a cookie-cutter

doesn’t fade.

approach in mind. It’s much more of a luxury service because it takes

And to avoid that, “you need to bring back hair

longer to achieve a beautiful result when you’re creating something

to the appropriate level by adding a first layer

exclusively for the person sitting in your chair,” reminds Tremblay.

of pigment, and then adjusting the colour with

“You need to know if your client prefers a blonde or brunette base and

another toner,” recommends Tremblay. Essentially

work from there,” echoes Heidi Kenney, a Contessa Master Colourist for

we’re talking about two colour applications (with

2016 and Matrix Canada artistic team member. “Building dimension with

a permanent, demi or direct pigment formula),

two or more colours also means you need to be more creative. You can

which are going to double the service time.

even throw a pastel in the mix, but it needs to be anchored by a darker

Another way to prevent colour fading is to deeply moisturize and repair hair in advance

shade to make it pop.” With so many trends coexisting at once, colour services aren’t as

(ideally one month before the colour change,

straightforward as they used to be, so they need to be customized.

says Tremblay) with keratin and oil treatments to

And—hello!—this is where the money is. “Clients are always willing to

nourish and minimize porosity.

pay more if they feel the service they are receiving has been custom created for them,” reminds Tremblay. "And that also happens to be the rationale behind the Couture Color service from Wella."

COME UNDONE To create those stunning fall golds, Kenney suggests going for richer blondes but from the same level using buttery, creamier tones. “I like using SoBlur from Matrix, which will add a warm, sheer tone without any trace of brassiness,” she says. Placement is also important because this colour needs to have that "lived-in" quality. “To give it more depth, you need brush up on your balayage technique," explains Kenney. "And you definitely need to understand how the hair moves on the head.” So even if it looks undone, it’s actually quite sophisticated to create.

PHOTO: WELLA PROFESSIONALS

The idea is that you are going to be working with colour, shadows and light, all at the same time. “We’re moving back to the whole concept of natural colour and texture," says Kenney. "Yes, it takes a lot of skill to create that. I think music festival culture has brought those looks back, and it’s a bit of a backlash against the super-glam, shiny Hollywood hair. Everything is a bit more toned down.”

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 6

salon

The Perfect Bond The science behind hair colour’s secret weapon. By Veronica Boodhan

air colour and bonders go hand in hand (or, in this case, “strand in strand”), as they provide clients with the colour they want without the damage. Bonding systems use chemical compounds that target

disulfide bonds, which break and reform during the colouring process as well as prevent damage during chemical treatments. Bonders have become a relatively new phenomenon in the industry, so what’s the craze all about? From the “original” to the latest systems on the market, we take a closer look at their chemistry and speak with industry experts to find out why it’s important now more than ever for all stylists to get on board with bonders.

insuring results Dubbed as “the original bond builder” and “insurance for your client’s hair,” Olaplex has become an industry favourite throughout Canada and the world, receiving rave reviews from celebrity stylists like Guy Tang. Olaplex includes No.1 Bond Multiplier, which is added directly to any colour or lightener. And since Olaplex extends processing time, stylists need to increase their developer strengths when using the system. The No.2 Bond Perfector is used after rinsing the colour from the client’s hair. The No.3 Hair Perfector continues the bonding at home for clients to use as a nourishing weekly home care treatment. The technology: Olaplex uses its patented bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate ingredient, which targets the sulfur hydrogen bonds that break and reform during the colour process, by adding carbon bonds to form disulfide bonds that strengthen the hair and prevent breakage. “A lot of people come to us because of Olaplex—we were the first in Vancouver to have it. It’s so liberating for a hairdresser to be able to achieve big makeovers in one sitting without having to worry as much about hair breakage. A lot of salon owners don’t believe it until they’ve seen it. I think that’s why people are still behind on it. They need to see it because it is a miracle—the most modern innovation since the flat iron.” – Michael Levine, owner of

pro benefits Most bonders work for a variety of hair types. BondPro+ from Goldwell features a two-component system that includes a Protection Serum and Nourishing Fortifier. The Protection Serum penetrates the hair while protecting the fibres and preventing breakage throughout the alkaline lightening, colouring and texturizing process. The Nourishing Fortifier is an intensive treatment that

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTOS: OLAPLEX, GOLDWELL

A Michael Levine Salon Group

salonmagazine.ca

FALL

2016

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’

helps stabilize the bonds while strengthening the hair. It can also be used as a deep conditioning treatment for severely damaged hair. While there is no home care product that is part of the system, BondPro+ has been designed to work with Goldwell’s existing home care line. The technology: BondPro+ consists of an inter-amino-bonding system with an advanced amino acid formula with moisturizing panthenol and cationic polymers that stabilize and reinforce bonds while strengthening and protecting hair fibres. This past summer, former Contessa winner Palma N’Sheluvzit was one of the first to try out the product: “I really put the product to the test. It’s great for clients who are playing with trendy silver or fantasy colours, or as a deepconditioning treatment. I’ve been using my regular colour formulas and adding this to my formulation and getting the exact same coverage. It helps protect the hair and prolong colour. And if hair is healthier, your colour will last longer.” – Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto

the smart solution Smartbond from L’Oréal Professionnel is a three-step system: It consists of a bond-strengthening add-in, which is mixed with colour and lightener to lift and optimize colour without any damage, along with in-salon and home care bond-protecting conditioners that strengthen hair fibres while closing the hair’s cuticles. The technology: Smartbond contains a new acid with a formulated blend of ceramide and polymers that protects and strengthens bonds while cleansing bad ions from the hair fibres, allowing for the reconstruction of weak bonds. “There’s no reason why any salon shouldn’t have a bond protector. Clients are starting to want bigger colour changes more often: Mermaid colours, dark to very blonde, and balayage. Since people are colouring their hair more and using hot tools more, their hair is generally more damaged. With Smartbond, I don’t have to change the consistency of balayage. I can’t have something that I’m going to put into my lightener that’s going to make my strongest developer of 40-volume a 30-volume. I need to make sure it always stays the same.” — Matthew Collins, brand ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel

fibre fix Fibreplex from Schwarzkopf Professional is a four-step system that includes Fibreplex No.1 Bond Booster, which integrates with the hair fibres and strengthens their structural bonds. Fibreplex No.2 Bond Sealer is an intensive treatment that seals the hair’s outer surface for improved strength and shine. The Shampoo cleanses while providing hair with intense, restorative care. The No.3 Bond Maintainer is the system’s home care treatment, which not only maintains the bonding system’s benefits at home but also shields hair from new damage. Fibreplex can be used as a bond enforcer for colour-treated hair or as a bonding care service for strengthening hair between colour services and for your non-colour-service clients. The technology: Fibreplex No.1 is formulated with Fibre Bond technology, which protects hair from damage throughout the lightening, lifting and colouring process. The technology interlinks with the hair fibres, enforcing the strength of their structural bonds while minimizing breakage by up to 94 per cent. The Fibreplex Shampoo, No.2 and No.3 contain Fibre Bond 4.5 the pH level to secure colour pigments, resulting in vibrant, long-lasting colour. “The bonding category has become so important because more and more people are pre-lightening their hair now, which means that the hair needs a lot more protection now than ever before. With Fibreplex, stylists can maintain their regular colouring routine so they don’t need to increase their processing time or change their developer strengths. And, because they don’t have to alter their normal routine, they are guaranteed the same, if not better, colour results with the added protection of the hair. Bonding systems are not a trend; they are a staple.” – Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada

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PHOTOS: L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

technology, which creates new bonds while balancing

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By Anna Lee Boschetto

hether your clients are searching for a whole new look or a new way to freshen up their hair colour, reds are experiencing a major

resurgence for fall. While this hue has typically been popular for those with lighter skin tones, the new palette of reds is making its way into an even broader range. Here’s the breakdown on what your clients may be requesting (if they aren’t already) and how you can get them in the red.

NOW TRENDING According to Rossa Jurenas, North American creative director for Schwarzkopf Professional, the biggest difference in red hues for this season is in depth. “We’re seeing more intensity yet a lived-in look that has a smoky, almost dusty feel,” says Jurenas, adding that this modern twist will continue into spring but with brighter undertones that include metallic shades.

SET THE TONE As with any hair colour, when it comes to selecting the right red for you, Dorothy Tsang, colour director at Blushes salon in Ottawa, suggests reds with more vibrant copper undertones for fair complexions, while red shades with darker, cooler undertones are best for darker ones. “For naturally dark hair, using a burgundy or eggplant hue will give someone with naturally darker hair a more natural look,” says Tsang. Jurenas says that not only skin tone but also eye colour play a major part in a colourist’s decision. “Eye colour is another way to select the best colour, but you need to look at the tones beyond blue, green and brown,” explains Jurenas. “Ginger and copper reds work best for anyone with golden tones in their eyes, while berry reds are better for anyone with silver in their eyes.”

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Reds

ALREADY RED? Changing your client’s colour to their best red, on naturally red haired clients is a different mix. “If someone has a ginger red hair colour, you want to create more dimension,” says Jurenas. “You may use berry reds to achieve a shade that suits them.” One way to make reds really stand out is by creating intensity with copper hues, suggests Tsang. “Mixing copper and bronze, as well as burgundy with eggplant, will give you these more intense shades.”

ALL ABOUT THE PLACE In this era of balayage and babylights, colour placement is key. “Colourists are definitely into more colour panelling with red and using bigger sections of hair for clients who want to create a statement,” explains Jurenas. Using toneon-tone placement gives depth and creates movement in the hair and ultimately offers a bold look. Tsang has found clients will often shy away from bolder colours like red tones, but contouring around the face to really highlight a client’s best features is a great way to help clients ease into pulling off such a bold colour.

ON THE HOME FRONT According to both Tsang and Jurenas, fading is the number one complaint among clients. “Blondes look more blonde as they fade, but with reds, the hair can appear very dried out,” says Jurenas. Every client should have a colour-safe shampoo and conditioner at home because the lower pH in the colour-safe product will preserve the colour. Rinsing with cool water seals the cuticle, which also locks in hair colour. In addition, Jurenas recommends her clients return to the salon once a month for a toner that can also help

PHOTOS: HAIR & COLOUR: JAKE THOMPSON HAIR, MAKEUP: JILLYN LEONE NELSEN, STYLIST: RACHAEL DOMINGO, PHOTO: JAKE THOMPSON

From fierce orange to brazen burgundy, reds are back on trend in a bold new way.

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retain the colour, especially for clients who are transitioning from blonde to red.

MAKING THE TRANSITION For grey-haired clients, advances in colour technology allow you to customize the shade of red and still achieve vibrant reds along with grey coverage. When it comes to transitioning clients from blonde to red, Jurenas says that a double appointment is necessary to achieve and refresh the colour. “With blonde hair, the porosity of the hair is higher than with brunettes, which means that you need to fill the hair so that it will hold and retain the red hue when you add it,” she says. Jurenas adds that creating a multi-dimensional effect may take an additional appointment. Brunette clients will be able to achieve a vibrant red hue more easily because the hair isn’t as porous, which helps retain rich reds.

H OT TI P While heat appliances are amazing styling tools, flat and curling irons can wreak havoc on clients’ hair when used daily. “I always recommend a heat protectant product without one, you can be lifting the colour as much as two shades in one use,” says Jurenas.

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Always a

Correction When clients change their hair colour, they’re counting on their colourists to get it right—the first time. By Anna Lee Boschetto this can mean green undertones, while dark-haired clients may see

colour has never been so versatile. In fact, colour services

more red or orange in their hair. “With more minerals in the water,

are one of the biggest sources of revenue for salons and,

a clarifying shampoo is a must for at-home care,” says Faucher. In

according to the professionals, colour correction is often the biggest

addition, blondes and brunettes can fade, depending on the amount of

reason why clients walk through their doors. According to Marie-Eve

sun exposure, and this can also result in a brassy appearance. In both

Faucher, a brand ambassador for Redken and master colourist for

cases, Faucher says that adding warmth to the existing hair colour

Salon Tocci in Toronto, any time you’re changing your hair colour, it’s

will help create the hues that your client wants to achieve. In addition,

considered a colour correction. Here’s the rundown on the top five

double glazing the hair will help you achieve the multi-dimensional

challenges with this service, along with ways in which you can ensure

tones that many clients see on celebrities.

that every client is a more colourful version of themselves.

CHALLENGE HAIR HEALTH

THE FIX

Depending on the hair type and how brassy it gets

Faucher recommends selecting more ashy tones in a monochromatic

No matter what the hue, with any colour correction, the quality of the

hair colour line. “For hair that gets brassy quickly, one process isn’t

hair is the first thing you have to consider. “Porosity can be a friend

enough,” says Faucher, “I may apply a lifting product, a second tone

because it allows hair to absorb the colour quickly,” explains Faucher,

and then neutralize the warmth of the colour to achieve that rich

but, colour also fades quickly when hair is porous. Hair that has been

blonde or brunette.”

compromised through previous colour processing is also more porous and requires that the proper steps be taken in the salon. “In the lifting process, the natural pigments in the hair are being distorted in smaller pieces, which allows it to be lighter,” says Faucher. In addition, Faucher says clients can damage their hair at home with hot tools and products that are not salon quality, adding that she tries to keep hair healthy as much as possible when clients are in the salon.

THE FIX

When working with hair that has a high porosity, you

need to fill the hair first, then apply colour. For example, with clients who are beginning with blonde hair, Faucher recommends beginning with a golden pigment as the first step in putting pigment back into the hair before moving to a darker level. “It’s okay to take more than one appointment to achieve your client’s desired hair colour if it will maintain the integrity of the hair,” reminds Faucher.

THE CHALLENGE ALL THAT BRASS Living in metropolitan areas like Montreal or Toronto means that hard water can alter the hair colour and turn it brassy. For blondes,

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CHALLENGE ERASING SHADES With pure pigment hues being hot summer shades, transitioning from these darker shades to lighter ones requires colour removal. “There are different approaches, depending on what we are trying to remove, especially with trendy hues like violet and turquoise, the hair needs to be light underneath. If you are going super-dark, it's easier, but if you hoping for a different tone of those colours or blonde, colour removal is a must,” explains Faucher.

THE FIX

With many clients enjoying the flexibility of a rainbow of

shades of semi-permanent colour, Joico now offers Color Intensity Eraser. In only 30 minutes, this product removes semi-permanent colour while conditioning your client’s hair, offering a seamless colour transition in one easy step.

THE CHALLENGE WAITING TIME According to Sue Pemberton, international artistic director for Joico, timing can be a big challenge for clients who are expecting their

PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

rom sun-kissed balayage to bold pure pigment hues, hair

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desired colour to be achieved in one appointment. “In many cases, it’s just not possible to solve your clients' colour troubles with one service, and clients need to be aware of this from the start,” says Pemberton. As Pemberton has learned through her years of experience, honesty goes a long way in building a rapport with clients, and if you aren’t completely happy with the colour service when you look at your client, fix it while you still have them in your chair. “Trust your gut instinct,” says Pemberton. “Even if your client seems satisfied when you’re done, if you aren't, then explain what you’re doing and why you’re doing it. Even if it takes more time, you’ll save time in the end.”

THE FIX

Set out clear expectations from the beginning

of the appointment so that your client doesn’t leave feeling disappointed. Just because they may not achieve their desired look in one appointment, knowing that you have a plan to make it happen means you’ll be able to retain them in the long run.

THE CHALLENGE CLIENT KNOWLEDGE It’s one thing if your client has been with you for 20 years and you have a strong understanding of their hair colour history, but that rarely happens these days. With new clients especially, Pemberton recommends scheduling a separate consultation appointment to gather their hair history. “From the type of colour they have used to the medications they may be taking, the more information you have, the better recommendations you can make when it comes to colour correction,” says Pemberton. As Pemberton points out, clients with long hair can be most challenging because their hair has likely been processed multiple times, which changes the way in which you’ll treat that hair compared to hair that has grown in.

THE FIX

When booking a separate consultation, both Pemberton and Faucher

recommend charging clients accordingly, which sets the tone that you are a colour expert. Then, when your client schedules their colour appointment, the fee from the consultation can be applied towards the colour service, which adds value for the client.

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Hair: Michael Piastrano, Ibiza Hair, Australia Colour: Adrian Rotolo Makeup: Kylie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Styling: Vass Arvanitis Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

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COLOUR CONFIDENCE This winning collection from Hair Expo Australia makes a statement with bold colour and trendy cuts.

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Finalist, Contessa 27 Ontario Hairstylist of the Year, Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Qi Salon, Toronto Makeup: Eden Bluestein Photos: Doug Mcmillan

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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HIGH IMPACT Blunt cuts with pops of seasonal shades add a twist to these classic hair colours.

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Hair: Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Makeup: Richard J Styling: Amanda Lee Shirreffs Photos: Mathew Guido

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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OPULENT ALLURE Rich, multi-faceted colour juxtaposed with tousled texture adds a playful feel to this Canadian collection.

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Hair: Amanda Menz, Fruition Style Ambition, Australia Makeup: Chereine Waddell Photos: Jenni Hare

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Blurred lines Blunt cuts and feminine texture have our attention in this artistic collection.

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Finalist, Contessa 27 Canadian Colourist of the Year, Connor Lange, Rapunzel's Hair Design, Stratford, Ont. Makeup: Kelley Cloney Photos: Kale Friesen

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Soft texture and multi-faceted colour add an opulent touch to this Canadian collection.

GLAM factor salonmagazine.ca

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salon

Photos courtesy of Revlon Professional

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Looks to thriLL Intense colour and fashionforward cuts add an artistic edge to Revlon Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Party collection.

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salon

light bright

Sleek cuts and vibrant colour add flair to this British collection. 74

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Hair: Tasha Stevens, Jamie Stevens Hair, London, U.K. Makeup: Dragon & Kanama Photos: Jens Wikholm See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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ECLECTIC This risk-taking collection combines whimsical styles with daring pops of colour.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Hair: Roxanne Benli, Rokk Ebony, Australia Makeup: Sarah Baxter Photos: Elizabeth Kinnaird

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Finalist, Contessa 27 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Makeup: Geeta Khanna Styling: Agusto Manazanares Photos: Greg Swales

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Avant-garde styling evokes a fantasy feel in this Canadian collection.

ILLUSIONS OF

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SALON MAGAZINE PRESENTS

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Jade Ahmeed, Vivid Salon, Conception Bay South, Nfld. Curtis Anweiler, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. Vincent DiPlacido, Sadiva Coiffure, Laval, Que. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Mathieu Hubert, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Vanessa Secondino, Salon Pure, Montreal Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Stef Toews, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

CANADIAN SALON TEAM

A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Black2Blond, Vancouver Blushes, Ottawa Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Fatehairsalon, Burlington, Ont. Monokrome Salon, Montreal Oblic Villeray, Montreal Opus Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat, Alta. Salon Collage, Toronto Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Salon Pure, Montreal Suki’s Salon, Spa and Academy, Vancouver Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Valvano Salon Spa, St. Catharines, Ont. Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C.

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST

Andor Bubelenyi, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton Melita Campellone, J’aime Coiffure, Montreal Adrian Carew, Hair 91 Inc., Toronto Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto Marc Galati, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont.

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CONTESSA 28 SEMI-FINALISTS Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Styliste et Coloriste Inc., Montreal Ludovic Leroy, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Dylan Sit, Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Pure, Montreal

MASTER COLOURIST

Eve Champagne, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Hair by Audrey Adrine, Toronto Caroline Robitaille, Coiffure Caroline Robitaille, Repentigny, Que. Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta. Kelly Toms, Robert Dunne Salon, Toronto

CANADIAN COLOURIST

Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Elena Bogdanets, Figaro Salon, Toronto Michelle Brisson, Freelance, Brampton, Ont. Etienne Cloutier, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Elaine Morin, O Salon, Montreal Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Hair by Audrey Adrine, Toronto Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody, B.C. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa David Vendittelli, Valvano Salon Spa, St. Catharines, Ont.

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST

Thelma Bento, Taz Hair Co., London, Ont. Michelle Brisson, Freelance, Brampton, Ont. Taylor Dubois, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina, Sask. Mathieu Jacob, local B, Montreal

Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Jean-Sebastien Lacombe, Studio Bob & Pine, Rouyn-Noranda, Que. Amy Laing, Ponytails + Horseshoes, Edmonton Mathieu Latour, J’aime Coiffure, Montreal Nazir Maherali, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Bailey Murphy, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Lisa Tuff, P&H Salon and Spa, Toronto Marilyn Vendittelli, Valvano Salon Spa, St. Catharines, Ont. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST

Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Sabrina Fetterkind, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Todd Omrod, Zazou Salon & Academy, North Vancouver Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

MEN'S HAIRSTYLIST

Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto Jennifer Chounramany-Chang, Kalon Studio, Kitchener, Ont. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. John Kinney, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Mathieu Mainville, local B, Montreal Fabrizio Perciballi, P&H Salon and Spa, Toronto Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Stef Toews, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Caffery VanHorne, Ms. Inches Hair Studio, Toronto

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST

Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Ray Civello, Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Jagoda Hall, Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Ludovic Leroy, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que.

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Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Osuka Yip, Ostudio, North York, Ont. Sandro Zamparini, The Joint Salon, Toronto

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST

Patricia Ajani, Saco Laval, Laval, Que. Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Michelle Brisson, Freelance, Brampton, Ont. Dara Crandall, Zazou Salon & Academy, North Vancouver Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Amber George, Verve Hair Lounge, North Vancouver Kozeta Izeti, Kozeta Salon, Toronto Stephanie Karellas, James Dimitri Hair Atelier, Aurora, Ont. Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST

Paula Daddario, Daddario Hair Co., Toronto Lauren Greenlaw, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Angie Hunt, Chatters Salon on Empress, Winnipeg Jason Mellor, Love Hair by J, Calgary Jennifer Reid, Chatters Hair Beauty Salon, London, Ont. Nicole Saprunoff, Golden Scizzors, Edmonton Mickey Svircevic, Global Best Beauty, Thornhill, Ont.

MAKEUP ARTIST

Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Annie DiNovo, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Kelsey Fitzpatrick, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Heidi Fleming, Hair Expressions and Day Spa, Kingston, N.S. Katie Foster, Taz Hair Co., London, Ont. Oleksandra Gavrylenko, Art of Make Up by Oleksandra, Mississauga, Ont. Cheryl Gushue, Cheryl Gushue, Toronto Vanessa Secondino, Salon Pure, Montreal Rita Stirpe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke Florencia Taylor, Freelance, London, Ont.

CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST

Ashley Cho, Her Majesty's Pleasure, Toronto Amy Hwang, Kumi Nail Beauty Bar, Edmonton Clara Kang, Her Majesty's Pleasure, Toronto Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Olga Khazova, European Standard, Medicine Hat, Alta. Naomi Misu, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Anick Pouliot, Pose d ongles Anick Pouliot, Pintendre, Que. Robin Schwartz, Robyn Schwartz Nail Design, Grand Forks, B.C. Jennifer Titre, Da Stiletto Nailz, Toronto Shirley Truong, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto

NEW HAIRSTYLIST

Leo Byrne, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld. Sarah Joris, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Stephanie Karellas, James Dimitri Hair Atelier, Aurora, Ont. Katrina Kuras, The Loft Toronto, Toronto Katie Sawicki, Parlour Hair Lounge, St. Catharines, Ont. John Seo, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Courtney Simpson, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Marcus Tignanelli, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

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Monica Turingia, Stylers, Guelph, Ont. Jaelyn Walker, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver

STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST

Kaitlin Belland, Rock Paper Shears Hair Studio, Edmonton Julia Fullerton, The Make-Up Lounge & Style Bar, Regina, Sask. Minseo Kim, Taz Hair Co., Toronto April Lawrence, Terra Sun Hair Design, Bancroft, Ont. King James Valdez, Zazou Salon & Academy, North Vancouver Kayla Zajes, Est-elle Academy of Hair Design, Thorsby, Alta.

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST

Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Jenna Bosch, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat Andor Bubelenyi, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton Jason Fournier, J. Fournier Hair Design, Calgary Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon, Edmonton Amber Kennedy, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Jag Moussa, JagHed Couture, Calgary Nicole Saprunoff, Golden Scizzors, Edmonton Dani White, Rock It Out Salon, Edmonton

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST

Eden Boudreau, Infusion Spa and Salon, Beaver Bank, N.S. Leo Byrne, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Felicia Macintyre, Red is the New Black Hair Studio, Miscouche, P.E.I. Jessica Murphy, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld. Ali Pike, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST

Travis Battaglia, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Amber George, Verve Hair Lounge, North Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Jae Jeong, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Timothy Kuo, Salon Haze, Vancouver Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST

Gilles-Bernard Brassard, Tonique Beauté Spa, Chicoutimi Jean-Sebastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire Karine Vezina, Coiffeur Hilda, Montreal

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST

Maxine Cahill, Les Beaux et Belles, Winnipeg Kayla Deics, The Make-Up Lounge & Style Bar, Regina, Sask. Taylor Dubois, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina, Sask. Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Kelsie Kitzul, Chel Salonspa, Saskatoon Jason Lachance, Pink Star Hair Design, Winnipeg Sandy Leung, Ethos SalonSpa & Barber, Saskatoon Aaron Macri, Satori Hair Studio, Regina, Sask. Renn VonDyck, Elan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Sara Whyte, Alchemy Salon, Saskatoon

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN

Brossés, Montreal Concrete Blonde Hair & Body, Sherwood Park, Alta. Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Her Majesty's Pleasure, Toronto Ivory Noir Salon, Edmonton Ludik Coiffure Inc., Beloeil, Que. Narcisse & Echo, Montreal Salon Deauville, Montreal Studio Fontana, Toronto Toque & Cie, Victoriaville, Que.

JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE

Amici Spa, Markham, Ont. Calia Hair, Toronto Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto HairStyle Inn Salon, Saskatoon Jonni’s Styling Studio, Kamloops, B.C. Tomax Hairworks, Etobicoke, Ont. Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont.

Finalists listed online in October and in the November/December issue.

Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie Thelma Bento, Taz Hair Co., London Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Anna Giannini, Mosaic Hair Group, Toronto Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer Pam Simmons, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST

Patricia Ajani, Saco Laval, Laval Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Daniel Benoit, Salon Pure, Montreal Francis Bouchard, Oblic Villeray, Montreal

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salon

GOLD SPONSORS

SILVER SPONSORS

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SALON MAGAZINE PRESENTS

CONTESSA GALLERY

CONTESSA 27 FINALIST, MASTER COLOURIST OF THE YEAR

After 10 years in the industry, Loretta Tom has made super-vibrant colours a part of her signature style.

REVLON PROFESSIONAL FONDANT COLORS “These shades are great pastels if you dilute them, but if you don’t, they create really vibrant pinks, purples and blues.”

Loretta Tom utilizes the colour-melting technique and lots

willing models who are relinquishing

of cold water. “I always feel so bad for the

control for such out-of-the-box

models because I need to use super-freezing

finishes, but for Loretta Tom, it’s just another

water to rinse their hair so the colour doesn’t

part of the collection-creating process.

bleed,” she says. “We wash each foil one by

RAINBOW PARTY

one, but the water is still so cold—we cover

While most of Tom’s Master Colourist finalist collection includes vibrant colours, her

them in blankets and point blow-dryers at them to try to keep them warm.”

inspiration was actually from the world around her: “My whole collection was inspired by

“I use this to smooth out the hair before we flat-iron it, to keep the frizz out.”

REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS VOLUME AMPLIFIER MOUSSE “I use the mousse as a foundation before blow-drying the hair.”

nature and different weather; I included greys that are like a cloudy day, brown and orange for a sunset, and the bright yellow was meant to be sunshine with a rainbow.” To plan out each look, Tom explains, “I sit down in a coffee shop and start drawing and colouring out the look with pencil crayons and then I start transforming it onto a bunch of mannequin heads before bringing the models in and doing it on them.”

COLD FRONT To create such a mix of colour without having the different shades bleed together, Tom

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

Pencil crayons help bring Tom's colourful vision to life.

REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS GLAMOURAMA SHINE SPRAY “I use this after Revlon Professional Modular Hairspray to add shine and finish off the look.”

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; HAIR AND STYLING: LORETTA TOM, SALON HAZE, VANCOUVER; MAKEUP: WIN LIU, FAYE SMITH; PHOTO: PATTY TSENG

s a colourist, it can be difficult to find

REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS SMOOTH IRON GUARD

salonmagazine.ca

SALON PROFILE

Next Dimension of Colour Josh Wood, celebrity colourist and global creative director of colour for Wella Professionals, has taken this essential salon service to the next level. By Anna Lee Boschetto

hen you meet Josh Wood, it’s instantly evident why he has

cultivated a celebrity clientele of Hollywood A-listers, including George Clooney and January Jones. As he recounts his experience of arriving in London from Barnsley with only a few pounds in his pocket, there’s a humble, matter-of-fact manner that makes you feel as though anyone can achieve what he has. Though soft-spoken, Wood makes it seem easy and effortless to build trust and rapport with his clients—an essential skill when you’re charged with crafting personalized hair colour. In fact, it’s his ability to incorporate innovative colour techniques that has put him on the map as half of Wella Professionals’ global creative leadership team. Together with Eugene Souleiman, global creative director of care and styling, Wood is charged with developing the brand's seasonal trend collections. As much as Wood’s work inspires hairstylists, he also recognizes the need to nurture up-and-coming talent with essential rules once learned.

“More and more beauty directors are getting involved with creating colour stories, which is very exciting.” –Josh Wood, global creative director of colour for Wella Professionals

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

skills and foundation, allowing them to break the

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EDITORIAL ESSENTIALS Whether he’s working for runways shows or with beauty directors for the pages of fashion magazines, Wood enjoys the collaborative experience. “More and more beauty directors are getting involved with creating colour stories, which is very exciting,” says Wood, who has been credited with transforming a model’s hair from dark brown to a grey-yellow hue and simultaneously altering her career. For Wood, the beauty of creating high-fashion looks is really in the unexpected details. When it comes to breaking down the look, Wood says the secret lies in the combined cool-warm equation—think Gwen Stefani’s signature look, warm eyes and skin with her cool, platinum hair colour. At Paris Couture Fashion Week, Wood developed a couture colour collection for Yiqing Yin’s autumn/winter collection.

MASTERING HIS CRAFT Wood understands the power of colour to transform—and even define—one’s personality. It’s a big part of the reason why the creative director puts a focus on offering premium hair colour services that offer a “total bespoke experience.”

Whether you’re considering a person’s lifestyle or wardrobe, he’s all about unique fit for that individual’s DNA.” At the same time, colour isn’t always about a major transformation, with subtle hues such as winter white and graphite grey being a big part of his artistic palette.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

“creating a colour that’s a

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

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SALON BUSINESS

The Business of Colour Protection Ways to maximize retail sales with colour protection products.

he benefits of colour protection home care products are twofold: Clients are able to preserve their freshly coloured locks, and salons can increase revenue with

retail product sales. But as many salon professionals know, it’s not always easy to get clients on board with professional home care products. “If clients haven’t had the right product recommendations in the past for their particular hair, they haven't had a good experience with it,” says Laura de Sousa, senior district sales manager for Goldwell. “Clients need to know that stylists have the integrity of their hair at heart. That’s what stylists need to convey as part of that full-service experience.” Colour protection can be one of the best buying incentives for clients. Since clients are spending hundreds of dollars on colour treatments, it provides stylists with an opportunity to educate them about ways to preserve their colour.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

salonmagazine.ca

TIP JAR Increasing retail sales seems to be on every salon owner’s mind these days. When it comes to colour protection, we’ve narrowed down a couple of key tips for getting it right.

Create a formula—when presenting products to clients, I

believe in the 5:3:1 method. Present five products to the client, narrow it down to three products and there will likely be at least one product the client goes home with. If you just present one product, such as a shampoo or conditioner, chances are they will say they already have something at home they use. But if you present five products that have been selected based on their hair type

With product knowledge being the driver of all successful retail sales, it’s important for all stylists and colourists to brush up on their salon’s retail product range. The next step is getting to know your clients and their individual hair concerns and needs. While colour protection may be your client’s main concern, there are contributing factors that also need to be considered before recommending products, such as the hair's texture, density and condition. “People are investing money in hair colour, so they want to maintain it as well,” says de Sousa. “I think that’s where the opportunity is to offer those additional products. It’s the stylist’s duty to provide customers with everything they need to maintain their specific colour—not just shampoo and conditioner but also styling and heat protecting products that help the colour last.” For clients who may already have a preconceived notion about home hair care, they may require some more convincing before spending additional money on professional products. “The number one client misconception is that it doesn’t matter what you put on your hair,” says Christopher Sulimay, academy and technical director for Keune Haircosmetics. “As stylists, I think sometimes we can get immune to it when we’re behind the chair. We get so used to working with professional products and may think everything performs that way. I think as we get more educated about products, the industry is smartening up.”

and hair colour, it makes the clients feel

Right place, right time

like you know and care them. It’s about

While some stylists choose to begin the product discussion at the end of the

providing a full prescription approach.

appointment, Sulimay says the conversation needs to begin much sooner than that:

— Laura de Sousa, senior district sales

“The beginning part of the appointment is really the best time to start a conversation

manager for Goldwell

about hair care and ask clients questions such as, ‘How’s your hair been feeling?

What do you think is causing that?’ Then come up with a solution in a bottle.” “When

Avoid missed opportunities—when offering in-salon treatments, it’s

not only important to educate clients about the treatments but it’s also important to add these treatments to your salon’s service menu rather than as a complimentary add-on. “Stylists often put treatments into their clients’ hair for free and never tell them about it. The clients’ hair feels good but they have no idea know why. There’s no value there because the clients never even know that it’s been done. If you’re using TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

Knowledge is power

treatments, start educating your clients about them and why you’re using them, and charge them for it. What gets paid for gets appreciated. Let them make a choice and understand that there’s value to it. We have to repaint the picture of value in our industry.”— Christopher Sulimay, academy and technical director for Keune Haircosmetics

salonmagazine.ca

I get that information, I use the products that I would prescribe for them at the shampoo bowl. It’s all about learning to gather information during your consultation and listen for those clues that clients give us.” Sulimay, who is the author of Shop Talk, a salon business book, says it’s important to continue the product discussion throughout the appointment: “The second time I would talk about colour protection would be when I get to the styling process or colouring process. It’s a great time to mention a few tips for maintaining colour at home. That way, when you get to the end of the appointment, it’s a warm sell because they’ve been educated about the products. It doesn’t seem like a brand new idea.”

Talking them through While hair colour is brought to life in a salon, it’s once the client leaves the salon that can become a real challenge. Since it’s up to clients to maintain their colour at home, as stylists it’s important to walk them through the maintenance process. “It’s about learning a script, rehearsing the script and understanding that there are magic moments during the appointment when there’s a higher probability that you have a selling opportunity,” explains Sulimay. “Colour protection comes in all shapes and sizes now. One of the main things we can do to build client loyalty is to continue to offer suggestions. From a profitability standpoint, retail increases client loyalty and profits the salon. Salons that are profitable understand that a lot of their profit is happening from retail sales.”

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salon

SALON INTERIORS

Details 3 co-owners: François Charbonneau, Tristan Charbonneau and Yannick Brisebois

Team 13 stylists 5 colourists 5 assistants 5 receptionists

Opening May 2015

Brands Kérastase L’Oréal Professionnel Shu Uemura René Furterer

Design Architect Line Laurin

Website usalonboutique.ca

PHOTOS: ALAIN COMTOIS

Space 2,400 square feet

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

salonmagazine.ca

Techno Design Located in Saint-Bruno-de-Montarville on the outskirts of Montreal, U Salon Boutique bridges the most avant-garde technology with a premium client experience. By Yasmin Grothé THREE CO-OWNERS Although they’ve been colleagues for 15 years, François Charbonneau, Tristan Charbonneau and Yannick Brisebois decided to become business partners by bringing together their vision, experience and inspiration to create a highly innovative salon concept. “We wanted to appeal to a client base that’s looking for a very modern experience coupled with pampering,” explains Brisebois. “And now because of the Internet, technology has become part of everyday life. We wanted to make sure our salon was playing on this key point to interact with our clients.”

ÜBER-TECH After a fire completely destroyed their former salon, the three coowners quickly decided to rebuild a new space that would focus on technology and automation to create a premium, customized experience for their clients, in line with the E/Motion concept created by L’Oréal Professionnel. According to this new model, some areas of the salon are closed off to give guests privacy while enhancing different touch points and elevating the level of service throughout.

LUXE LIFE Clients are ushered into a pristine, all-white space for an upscale service provided by a team of hand-picked experts for a truly innovative experience. Lighting, room temperature and ambient music are all customized by a cutting-edge computerized system in different areas of the salon, which change depending on the time of day and to highlight different moods. For example, in the shampoo area, the temperature is warmer, the lights are dimmed and the music is relaxing. And since technology is at the heart of U Salon Boutique’s mission, every cutting and colouring station has an iPad, so guests can peruse the salon’s Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest accounts while looking for inspiring cuts and colour options.

salonmagazine.ca

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salon

SALON EVENTS

Wella Professionals North American Trend Vision Awards

1. This year’s NATVAs were filled with energy and excitement as

Details: It was a full house with hairstylists and beauty

guests cheered

professionals from across North America gathering to

for entrants from

celebrate the incredible work of at this year’s NATVA winners.

both Canada

Gold winners in the categories of Color Vision, Creative

and the

Vision and Student will compete at the Global TrendVision

United States.

Awards, to be held in Barcelona, Spain in November. When & Where: July 25 in Las Vegas PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

2. Sebastian Professional’s creative directors, Michael Polsinelli and Shay Dempsey brought their Eclectic collection to life on stage.

3. Award-winning Australian hairstylist Frank Apostolopoulos presented Case Study, a dramatic and moody collection featuring undone texture and smoky, earthy hues.

4. Canadian gold winners, Suzanne Pack (Color Vision), Frank Dicintio (Creative Vision) and Adelaide Anacleto (Student) will compete live in Barcelona later this year.

5. A special presentation from Wella’s North American Team, “The Individualists,” rounded out the evening with the Imaginique collection.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Loft Gala

1. The evening event

Details: The Loft Urban Salon in Ottawa hosted

community leaders

its second-annual black tie fundraiser in support of

in fashion, arts and

the Ottawa Regional Cancer Foundation. L’Oréal

entertainment, sports

Professionnel was the event’s presenting sponsor.

and politics.

brought together

When & Where: April 30 in Ottawa PHOTOS COURTESY OF GREG KOLZ

2. Israeli designer Eyal Zimerman presented a fashion show featuring a collection of spectacular red-carpet gowns.

3. The gala included a silent auction, which, combined with the event’s generous donors, helped to raise a total of $32,500 for the Ottawa Regional Cancer Foundation.

salonmagazine.ca

november+decembero m a yc+t oj ubneer.. 1 36

salon

5 REASONS TO LOVE

ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

SALON EVENTS

Sebastian Professional’s Eclectic Collection Debut Details: Inspired by street-styling millenials, creative directors Michael Polsinelli and Shay Dempsey launched Sebastian Professional’s autumn/winter collection, Eclectic. Focusing on hairstyling, as opposed to cutting, the duo created a lineup of looks incorporating an innovative use of hair accessories. When & Where: June 19 in Los Angeles PHOTOS COURTESY OF SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

1. The event also marked the launch of Sebastian’s latest innovation, Sublimate, a versatile styling product that complements

1 2 3 4 5

this collection.

Discover why you should attend our new and exclusive anti-aging & beauty EVENTS! SIMPLER NAVIGATION gets you the latest anti-aging, beauty and plastic surgery news faster! Read Elevate ANYWHERE with ISSUU. Android users rejoice! Get the FACTS about cosmetic procedures with the improved PROCEDURE DIRECTORY. Locate a doctor for your next treatment in the FIND A DOCTOR section.

Elevate Magazine celebrated big wins at the Canadian Online Publishing Awards, held on November 19, with Gold for Best Website Design and Silver for Best Media Website!

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December, by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 183 Bathurst Street, Suite 202, Toronto, Ontario, M5T 2R7, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059. Volume 25, Issue 13.

salonmagazine.ca

2. Repurposed belt buckles, hair clips and strips of leather served as the jumping-off point for the collection.

3. After spending a day with the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creative directors, 2016 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Next Award winner Gianpaolo Columbo presented his interpretation of Eclectic.

salonmagazine.ca

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salon

SALON BEST NINE

OUR #BEST9 colour TRENDS

Pretty in pink @12benefits

A case of the blues with this balayage by @tevefox.hair

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Violet for days @k__conner

Stay bright @memillionthdollar @ruskhaircare

Striking rosy blonde to add dimension @cydcharisse

This indigo is absolute perfection @balayagebybritt

Playful pastels give this blonde extra bounce @ruralfringe

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 6

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

Our Instagram feed is blowing up with beautifully colourful tresses! Here are some of our favourite shots of rich pigments and daring hues.

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